Travel
EUROPE Issue 3
Spain, Morocco & Portugal
Acknowledgements
Erin Gold Tom Heffernan Roberto Frechilla Sandeman’s New Europe Tours Pancho Tours Georgina Vivian
All photography and text by Prerna Ashok unless otherwise stated. 4 \\ Travel Europe
From the Creative Director Welcome to the Moorish issue of Travel Europe! It was wonderful being back in Europe during the early summer period when the cities are not overcrowded with tourists pounding the pavements and spilling out into the streets, and the locals are tolerant and good-humoured. My smattering of Spanish, high-school French, and a friend’s BrazilianPortuguese got us by; however, a smile and patience (especially in Morocco) that took little effort meant that we were rewarded with better service, and that inexplicable and heartwarming feeling of being welcomed to every city.
Morocco was the biggest culture shock, especially Tangier, and navigating the Medina in Fes was a challenge. I would highly recommend hiring a multilingual private tour guide, as this also discourages swindlers and pickpockets. For the first time I have included tried and tested recipes that summarise this holiday. Empanadas and custard tarts accompanied us on long bus rides, while tortillas where the choice pick for lunch. But there is so much more to discover along the Iberian Coast and I hope you have an enjoyable journey!
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Barcelona. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Valencia, Granada, Seville. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Morocco. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Portugal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Madrid. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 San Sebastian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Recipes
Tortilla. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Agua de Valencia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Harira soup. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 PastĂŠis de Nata. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Empanadas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
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Barcelona is a buzzing, vibrant city with plenty to see and do—from galleries, shopping, museums, bars, cafes and public events it’s the most visited and talked about city when travelling around the Mediterranean. 8 \\ Travel Europe
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Barcelona is a buzzing, vibrant city with plenty to see and do. From galleries, shopping, museums, bars, cafes and public events, it’s the most visited and talked about city when travelling around the Mediterranean. The Gothic Quarter gets its name from the imposing architecture and narrow, winding, cobbled lanes that lead to unexpected squares surrounded by cafes and bars. The buildings house restaurants, bars, independent boutiques, studios, colleges, private apartments and convenience stores; within some of these edifices, travellers stumble gleefully upon ancient Roman ruins and historical monuments that declare the presence of one of the most powerful civilisations. Next to the Gothic Quarter is the El Born district with wider streets, tree-lined avenues, equally beautiful architecture, and quirky shops and bars. You would easily walk past museums and galleries hidden behind the stone facades were it not for the entry lines snaking out into the street—tourists fanning themselves 10 \\ Travel Europe
with brochures in the summer heat, while placing the other hand protectively over the backpack slung in front of them. Walk past these historical districts towards Barcelonetta, Barcelona’s most famous beach, and you’ll start to hear more English than Catalan or Spanish. During the summer months, the apartments in Barcelonetta are filled with young Britons determined to get their fill of sun, sand and sangria. Although there are more attractive beaches in Spain and around the Med, few places can boast the same lively atmosphere, cheap bars, and nightclubs this close to the beachfront. The Catalunians are also laid-back and make the most of the summer atmosphere. Walk down La Rambla until you reach a throng of tourists and locals fighting to enter La Boqueria, the most famous food market in Barcelona, where you will find every colour, fruit, vegetable, meat and fish under the sun. Your senses and mind explode with wonder at the sights, sounds and smells. There are numerous stalls selling freshly blended fruit juices, baked
Images (clockwise from top): Art installation at the Parc Ciutadel; beautiful interplay of light and colour at the Sagrada Familia; Plaça de Sant Felip Neri, which still bears the marks of the Spanish Civil War.
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goods including empanadas, quiches, croquettes, and breads, innumerable legs of jamon and strings of sausages hang from the tops of the butchers’ stalls, while the glass windows protect the entrails of cows, sheep, goats and pigs. Venturing deeper into the market, you will start to smell the ocean and the sight of the freshest fish glistening under the lights is overwhelmingly beautiful. Their scales shimmer with iridescent colours, the scallops in the shells are like soft, juicy pillows, the tuna flesh is a deep cranberry and the fishmonger’s knife slices it like butter. The squid and octopus stare back coldly, their tentacles disappearing into the mounds of shaved ice that they sit on. The tapas bars at the very back of the market are full. Plates full of grilled and salted pardon peppers disappear almost as soon as they are placed in front of diners; the same happens with the tortillas and pulpo gallego. The chefs have nowhere to hide, as their tiny kitchens are in plain sight of the diners. Flames leap into the air, a thin veil of smoke hangs around perpetually, the
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beer flows freely, the cutlery chinks and the plates clatter during the lunchtime ebb and flow. After such a delicious lunch it is time for a siesta; however, tourists on a tight schedule fight this urge and make their way to the Sagrada Familia. Art aficionados love to throw incomprehensible, pretentious words and phrases into their vernacular, but at Sagrada Familia, one finally understands and is compelled to use the much loved and used phrase ‘interplay between light and colour’. It is a spectacular vision to see the coloured light dancing on the curves and waves of the interior architecture. There are no words for the feeling as you gaze up, down and across— there is an overwhelming amount of detail in the design and it is worth every cent to spend some time in this unique construction. Images (left-right): the Passion facade at Sagrada Familia; view from the top of beautiful buildings on the Passeig de Gràcia.
Travel Tip: Barcelona is famous for its pickpockets. Be wary at all times and make sure your belongings are where you can see them.
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Sagrada Familia
As one of the most visited tourist attractions in Europe the Sagrada Familia is an extraordinary example of modernisme architecture. Antoni Gaudi, the architect who also designed a number of other beautiful buildings in the city, managed to draw some basic plans before his death. The cathedral, whose construction is estimated to be completed by 2026 boasts a stunning exterior and interior. Book ahead to avoid lining up for tickets at http://visit.sagradafamilia. cat/
Enrique Tomas
Enrique Tomas is an excellent choice for quality jamon and a quick lunch. The menu seems limited, but the quality of the jamon is exceptional. Open Monday - Thursday 9:30am - 10:30pm
Friday - Saturday 9:30am - 12:30am
Sunday 10:30 am - 8:30pm Carrer Argenteria 27, 08003 Barcelona
La Boqueria
A foodie’s mecca and photographer’s delight, La Boqueria is a myriad of colours, smells, and sounds. Vendors sell all manner of fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, seafood, and snacks. This is the perfect place to pick up a picnic lunch, or head to the back where you will find a number of tapas bars with open kitchens. Open Monday - Saturday from 8:00am - 8:30pm Rambla 91, 08001 Barcelona
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Ziryab Fusion Wine and Tapas Bar
At Ziryab the food is a wonderful fusion of traditional tapas and Middle Eastern flavours - the degustation platter is highly recommended as is a jug of sangria, made at the table. The food and drink is reasonably priced and diners also have the option of indulging in a bit of shisha.
Barcelonetta
Open daily from 7:00pm to 1:00am Carrer de Grunyi 4, 08003 Barcelona
Sandeman’s New Europe Tours
Els 4 Gats
Sandeman tours are a fantastic way to start exploring a new city—from the time of the Visigoths to the current culture and lifestyle, the guides are able to provide information on everything you would want to know. The expert guides bring to life the legends and take you in the footsteps of Christopher Columbus, Picasso, and General Franco.
For Picasso fans and those who love tapas Els 4 Gats is a gothic bohemian bar which was a meeting point for the city’s artistic and avant-garde thinkers. The food is also excellent with typical Mediterranean dishes and unique platters.
Free tours start at the Jaume I Metro Exit, Plaça de l’Àngel at 11:00am and 2:00pm
Open daily from 10:00am to 1:00am Carrer de Montsió 3, 08002 Barcelona
The beach is imported from Egypt, but that is of little importance to the holidaymakers and locals determined to soak up the sun, sip on cocktails, enjoy a spot of beach volleyball and relax. When the sun goes down, the lights go up at the bars and clubs in the area. The party really gets going after midnight so those who want a good night’s sleep are advised to vacate the area.
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Tortilla\\Recipe Spanish tortillas are delicious omelettes or fritters that are both healthy and nourishing. You can add more vegetables and chorizo or bacon to this recipe for a quick and easy midweek meal. Skill \ Easy
1 Tblsp olive oil 1 brown onion thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic 2 potatoes peeled and thinly sliced ½ bag baby spinach 1 handful parsley ½ tsp paprika 6 eggs 80 mls milk Salt and pepper to taste
Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a 22cm base heavy-based, non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Cook the onion and cloves of crushed garlic until onion has softened. Add the potatoes, baby spinach, parsley and paprika. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes or until potato is just tender and starts to brown. Preheat grill on medium. Whisk 6 eggs and milk together in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Pour egg mixture evenly over potato and onion mixture.
Reduce heat to low. Cook for 6-8 minutes or until tortilla is almost set (eggs should be set underneath but surface still runny). Place under grill. Cook for 4-5 minutes or until just set and light golden (not browned). Set aside for 2 minutes. Loosen with a spatula and turn onto a plate or chopping board. Cut into wedges. Serve with a fresh green salad, and crusty bread rubbed with olive oil and fresh tomato.
Away from the bustling big cities, the smaller cities and towns along the Iberian coast reveal how much of an influence the Moors had in this part of the world.
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Travel Tip: During the summer months there are a number of parties and festivals taking place in and around the cities that continue late into the night. You may have to exercise additional patience when waiting for a table at restaurants and bars, or be flexible and share space with others.
The landscape becomes more dramatic when travelling from Catalonia to Valencia—the earth is drier and there is more brown than green to be seen. Dark green olive, lemon and orange trees dot the countryside, the mountains are rugged and ominous shades of blue and grey. On the opposite side, the sea sparkles and reflects the blue of the sky. The sun beats down on the little towns and the Moorish influence is more pronounced. There are buildings with decorative tile work, each colour symbolising an aspect of Moorish culture and beliefs; dark green tiles, for example, are used on the roofs of religious buildings. In the city of Valencia, there is an interesting mixture of Christian, Muslim and Jewish architecture and symbols in all of the buildings. After the Reconquista, the Spaniards decided to retain the buildings built by the Moors and simply redesign the facades and interiors to reclaim their Christian identity. The Jews assisted financially in this refurbishment so it is not unusual to see a church that used to be a mosque sporting the Star of David—
an amusing characteristic that recounts history more effectively than the books and records. The palm trees remain and some street and building names are written in Spanish and Hebrew. This amalgamation of cultures is reiterated in the artisan crafts and souvenirs with elaborate designs, hand-painted with rich, vibrant colours often illustrating flowers, everyday life, abstract patterns and motifs. The fresh fruit and vegetable market of Valencia is housed in a stunning building—one doesn’t know where to look. Although not as crowded as La Boqueria and not as much exotic produce, the fruit and vegetables here are locally grown and produced, including the vast array of olive oil and saffron. The oranges are naturally sweet, juicy and fresh, there are more varieties of tomatoes, and the ubiquitous jamon hangs off the stalls temptingly. The best way to enjoy Valencian oranges is in the local cocktail Agua de Valencia—an exhilarating mixture of gin, vodka, orange juice and Cava (sparkling white wine), which goes down a treat on a hot afternoon.
If you’re looking for something equally refreshing sans alcohol, try a granizada, which is a simple mix of fresh lemon juice, ice and sugar. Valencia is one of those laid-back cities where you can explore the city at your leisure and take in its beauty. Granada is the gateway to Northern Africa and the old Moorish capital; naturally, there are magnificent buildings, mosques, palaces and markets that reflect the grandeur and rich history and traditions of the Moors. Granada is also home to the Romani gypsies, and their influence is also evident, especially in the Sacromonte caves where there are many venues hosting flamenco performances. During the day, the Sacromonte caves is a quiet, peaceful area nestled amongst such natural beauty with trees and mountainscapes to one side, and the city of Granada cascading down the hills into valley on the other, with nothing but the Nevada desert on the horizon. The Alhambra rises majestically on the opposite hill, flags waving proudly in the breeze.
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After exploring the Sacromonte area, walk across to the Albayzin district where the taller stone buildings provide some shade and relief from the sun. The houses and facades here are whitewashed with blue and burnt umber tiled roofs, giving the illusion of being on an island in the Mediterranean. Clambering down the cobbled paths of the steep hills leads the explorer to winding alleys filled with bars, restaurants and vendors selling all kinds of North African souvenirs; it’s a miniscule Medina with colourful caftans, skirts and pants fluttering in the breeze. Shiny tea sets sit proudly on the shelves and colourful jewellery is mounted onto velvet boards. There is a slight smell of new leather and vendors call out to each other in a mixture of Arabic, Spanish and other indiscernible languages.
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At the start of the summer, you’ll find the locals at Férial, an annual carnival further out of the city. Rows of white tents are erected in a field; they host eating joints and bars. Further back, the tents are transformed into nightclubs with disco balls and lights. Down in the valley, a number of carnival rides and activities are in full swing with children screaming gleefully as contraptions throw them in the air and twirl at dizzying speeds, leaving trails of colourful lights. Most people are dressed in flamenco costumes, from the stiff hairdos down to the blockheeled shoes. It is an unforgettable experience for those new to the concept. The city is just as lively, with tapas bars and shisha bars bursting with people. Groups of young people
dressed to a theme (bullfighters, surfer dudes, devils, angels etc.) take over a narrow pedestrian path, trying to engulf the tourists and groups of girls, but it is with good humour. Laughter and choruses of jeers and cheering can be heard as the football games are broadcast everywhere. The city is lit up like a Christmas tree with festive lights on all major avenues and streets, as if the streetlights and buildings weren’t emitting enough. It’s hard to imagine Granada as anything but a lively, festive city. It is rich in history and culture with so much diversity thanks to the Moors, Gypsies and Visigoths, and an unforgettable taste of what is yet to be experienced further down the Iberian Peninsula. Seville is a quintessential Spanish city filled with extraordinary beauty—
Valencia Granada Seville \\ Feature
buildings, art, flamenco, music, even the people here are extraordinarily beautiful. The colours of the city stand out against the bright blue sky; the fresh whites, gold detailing, lush green shades, delicate pinks, burnt red brickwork and sunshine yellow. Even on a hot summer’s day, the ubiquitous presence of controversy and contrasts is evident. According to the locals, Spaniards are either for or against bullfighting, which is a predominant part of the city’s culture—there is no room for ambivalence. Across the river lies the Triana district and the inhabitants are adamant that it is a completely different city; it is not part of Seville. This is where the gypsies, Jews and Muslims congregated during the Inquisition and where flamenco and the jamon became a strong part of
the culture and lifestyle. Legend has it that during the Inquisition, these minorities were given a choice: leave Spain, or convert to Christianity. Those who chose to remain in Spain and convert to Christianity hung a leg of pork outside their homes to prove their loyalty; however, a new form of lamenting and frustration emerged through flamenco music and dance. Traditionally, this is a spontaneous performance where guitarist, dancer and rhythm keeper work passionately and intuitively together to tell a story of loss, grievance and anger towards their oppressors. Nowadays, the songs are poetic verses about love and beauty, but passion and intensity is as strong as ever. As the city cools down at dusk, the streets are livelier with locals and
tourists refreshed after their siesta— the bars and restaurants start to fill up quickly. First, the tourists contemplating the menu before the flamenco shows, then the locals find a gap in the crowd at the shiny wooden bars and are content to stay there for a few hours with friends and colleagues after the day’s work, downing beers or glasses of wine.
Images on previous page (clockwise from top): The roof of the mercado in Valencia in the Moorish style; fresh Valencian tomatoes; the elaborate facade of the Town Hall in Valencia; Christianity, Islam and Judaism come together architecturally in the Plaza de la Virgen, Valencia. This page: Views of the Alhambra Palace from the Albayzin district, Granada.
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This page (clockwise from top): Granada at dusk; Gypsy pride in the streets on Granada; street art and lyrics on the Sacromonte caves in Granada; The Generalife at Alhambra; view of the Alhambra palace from the Albayzin.
Opposite page (clockwise from top-left): View of the Triana district; detail of Moorish carvings and architecture; Plaza de Toros, Seville; the bright colours of buildings and tiles in Seville. 22 \\ Travel Europe
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The Alhambra and Generalife
The Alhambra and Generalife is a magnificent example of Moorish architecture and grandeur. Walking through the palaces one can only imagine the kind of lifestyle lead here with astounding views of the surrounding countryside that stretches for miles.
La Bodeguilla del Gato
For the best, most authentic Valencian tapas look no further than Bodeguilla del Gato. With local specialities including fried cheese with cranberry sauce, chorizo poached in red wine, and delicious croquettes.
Open daily from 8:30am For more information visit http://www.alhambrapatronato.es
Mercado de Artesania
Open daily from 8:00pm - late Calle de Catalans 10, 46001 Valencia
If you’re looking for souvenirs and unique gifts look no further than the artisan market in Granada. Here you will find everything from jewellery, clothing, and knick knacks.
Plaza España
With breathtaking architecture, colour and details the Plaza España is a beautiful spot to relax in Seville. Designed by Aníbal González, it is a mix of 1920s Art Deco and ‘mock Mudejar’, and Neo-Mudéjar styles.
Alhambre Tapas Bar
A cosy little venue with eclectic styling, but delicious food, beer and wines. Here the food is flavoured with more earthy spices and Middle Eastern notes, but retains the familiar Spanish flavours.
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Tablao Flamenco Los Gallos
Excellent prices and quality food.
There are many bars and pubs where flamenco shows are performed—the quality and authenticity of these shows varies from venue. In the Triana district many shows are spontaneous, while in Seville there are programmed shows. The performances at Los Gallos are around an hour to an hour and a half with a dozen performers including guitarists, singers, and dancers.
Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner Carrer Imprenta 2, 18009 Granada
For more information on tickets and performance schedules visit http://www.tablaolosgallos.com
Vineria San Telmo
Traditional recipes are given a modern twist and presented beautifully. An excellent selection of wines that complement the flavours and a buzzing atmosphere make this a popular spot for locals and tourists. Open daily from 10:30am - 12:00am Paseo Catalina de Ribera 4, 41004 Seville 24 \\ Travel Europe
Cafe Negrito
Despite the name, this is a modern bar which serves the best Agua de Valencia in town. Made with freshly squeezed orange juice, vodka, gin, and cava this is the best way to kick off the evening with friends. Although the bar is small, it oozes style with modern fittings and cruisey ambiance. Open daily from 3:30pm - 3:00am Plaza Negrito 1, 46001 Valencia
AGUA DE VALENCIA\\RECIPE This is a refreshing alternative to the traditional Sangria—with freshly squeezed orange juice, cold, bubbly Cava, splashes of gin and a hint of vodka, this is perfect for balmy summer nights. Skill \ Easy
cava
orange juice
ice
gin
vodka sugar
Quantities can be adjusted to taste Drink responsibly
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A taste of Morocco
Morocco is the gateway to the Middle East, which means that the history and culture is a mĂŠlange of European style and Oriental traditions. This introduction to Morocco barely scratches the surface of this country and its people.
Image: the Medina in Fes— the locals say Fes was built on the backs of donkeys. In these narrow and winding alleyways donkeys are the best way to transport goods.
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Tangier is the major port and entry point to Morocco, attracting visitors from Europe and the Middle East. It is a cosmopolitan city with an attractive beachfront lined with cafes and restaurants. All roads leading out of Tangier are lined proudly with the Moroccan flag. Driving past the last flag fluttering in the wind, the roads and scenery are less populated and less chaotic—fields of gold wheat and dark green patches lay across the hills and valleys. The burnt earth continues inland for miles until it reaches a cluster of grey mountains. Unlike Tangier, Fes seems more organised and cultivated as we drive through the Ville Nouvelle built by the French. Fes Jdid is the Jewish quarter, or Middle Town, but Fes el Bali is the magical Old Town.
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This ancient city is packed with people, donkeys (after all, Fes was built on the backs of donkeys), buildings cramped together, and street vendors. The city is divided into two areas—the Fes Medina and the Nouvelle Ville, which is the bustling commercial centre. Tourists are naturally drawn to the Medina where it is a labyrinth filled with exciting shops and stalls to discover. Protected by a sun-baked golden-orange wall, this UNESCO world heritage site lives up to expectation. Arts and crafts can be found everywhere; handmade Berber carpets hang off the walls, silver jewellery glitters in the sun, and the perpetual scent of leather leads the discoverer to bags, poufs, shoes, wallets and purses of all shapes, sizes and colours.
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Apothecaries and pharmacies are now fitted out with modern lights and cash registers, but the glass jars filled with coloured liquids, oddly shaped twigs, herbs, spices, and objects that look suspiciously like organs remind the visitor of ancient rituals and remedies. Despite modern technology, there is still a cure for any ailment under the sun.
is a separate section to wash and bleach the skin. You can see men skipping along the rims of these vats, dipping pieces of leather carefully in dye, calling out to each other. Young boys scrub the freshly cut and dried hides—the skin is laid out in the sun to harden and dry, and pigeons droppings are used to soften it to a workable surface.
Deeper in the Medina, the smell of leather becomes stronger; approaching the entrance to the tannery you are offered a sprig of mint to hold against your nose. Up the spiralling staircase, past the rooms and nooks filled with bags and jackets, and you reach the top where you can look down into the heart and soul of the production process. Great vats of red, yellow, khaki, brown, blue and orange dye line the courtyard in neat rows. There
Haggling is part of the purchasing process—there are (unofficially) four prices: one price for American tourists, one price for French tourists, one price for good hagglers and the price Moroccans pay. Nothing has a price tag on it; it’s all about the interaction and trying to build an amiable relationship with the vendor to agree on the best price. One could spend hours roaming the Medina, watching men and young boys
Images (left-right): Leather babouches at the tannery in Fes; the tannery in Fes; detail of Moorish tilework in Meknes; Berber craftwork in Meknes; ruins in Volubilis.
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Travel Tip: Be wary of accepting advice and help from locals as they will expect to be tipped for their efforts. This includes taking your photo (or taking a photo of them), giving directions, carrying bags, and even an additional service charge for a taxi ride.
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working at their craft—hammering metal, tin, copper and bronze for tea sets and jewellery, polishing and varnishing intricately carved wood, dipping freshly baked biscuits into oozing sugar syrup, carefully plucking fresh mint leaves, and carefully arranging carpets and rugs to show off the workmanship. Fes el Bali is a man’s town, despite the women who work behind the scenes to produce the more delicate and intricate wares. After an afternoon of exploring in the hot sun, a hammam is a welcome respite; hammams can be found in every neighbourhood and are traditional public baths, which have been modelled on the ancient Roman baths. There are separate hammams for men and women
but there are those that have separate bathing chambers. The guest is seated in a warm room while the bathing chamber is prepared. The darkened room is filled with the sound of running water, which echoes soothingly. A light wash is followed by a quick rub down with gelatinous organic soap; another splash of water and it is time for a vigorous and thorough scrub that takes off a layer of dead skin. Next comes a relaxing scalp massage and shampoo. The bath ends with a wash of water and argan oil. Guests can take their time and relax in the main room with a cup of mint tea and peaceful music before reluctantly leaving the hammam. If ancient Roman ruins in Europe aren’t enough, Volubilis is an extraordinary city
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with ruins and remains including temples, houses, thermal springs, the local brothel, and public spaces. The mosaics and carvings pay homage to the Gods and Goddesses from Greek and Roman mythology; it is a beautiful site with acres of countryside stretching past what the eye can see with varying shades of gold, green, red and russet contrasting against the blue sky. Cottonwool clouds cast their shadows over the land, intensifying the contrast between hues. Onwards to Meknes, where the main attractions were erected under the reign of Moulay Ismail, the Sultanate of Morocco from 1672–1727, also known as the ‘Warrior King’ and ‘The Bloodthirsty’. The city is more spacious but no less
remarkable than Fes, with numerous edifices, gardens, monumental gates, and mosques retained within 40 kilometres of stonewall. The Bab Mansour is a work of art with countless coloured tiles painstakingly assembled and arranged into intricate patterns. The Royal Stables are breathtakingly large, as Moulay Ismail had several thousand horses. His power and ruthlessness is evident in the spaces and buildings he commissioned—his ideas and ambition for Meknes to resemble Versailles influenced by Louis XIV in France.
Image: The walls of the Medina in Fes is the result of thousands of craftsmen creating this distinctive protective barrier.
This taste of Morocco is exciting and there is always more to learn and see.
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Advertorial
HARIRA\\RECIPE
Skill \ Medium
This traditional soup is eaten to break the fast of Ramadan. This recipe is a vegetarian version, but you can also add lamb, chicken or beef. In Morocco, harira soup is served with a bowl of fresh dates. While this may seem unusual, it is delicious.
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2 Tblsp olive oil 1 tsp fresh ginger, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 onions, diced 2 bay leaves 1 stick celery, diced 500 mls vegetable stock 400 gms tinned chickpeas 400 gms brown lentils 1 Tblsp sweet paprika ½ red chilli, finely diced 1 Tblsp cumin powder 400 gms tinned tomatoes Salt and pepper, to taste Juice of ½ lemon Fresh or dried dates, to serve
Heat oil in a large pot and fry the ginger, garlic, onions, bay leaves and celery until they soften. Add the stock and chickpeas and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the lentils, sweet paprika, chilli, cumin, salt, pepper and the remaining stock. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Squeeze over the lemon juice, garnish with coriander or parsley and serve with croutons or hot crusty bread. Serve the dates on the side.
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The Medina
The Medina in Fes is an extraordinary treasure trove. With winding alleyways and something new around the corner one can easily get lost amongst the glittering jewellery, bold leather bags, antiques, tea sets, homewares and knick knacks. The smell of leather, mint, and spices envelopes the Medina and is the essence of Morocco.
Palais Batha
Impressive decor and delicious food make this restaurant a highly recommended dining spot. Tourists and locals who dine here in the evenings are treated to live music and good service.
The Royal Palace - Fes
General public are barred from entering the Palace, but it is still an impressive sight even from outside. The palace was built in the 17th century and it is situated right in the centre of New Fes. The palace is of great historical value and is one of the major attractions of Fes.
www.palaisbatha.com 5 Place Batha Oued Fejjaline, Fes
Volubilis
Volubilis is a partially excavated Roman city. During and after the period of French rule over Morocco, about half of the site was excavated, revealing many fine mosaics. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, listed for being “an exceptionally well preserved example of a large Roman colonial town on the fringes of the Empire.
Restaurant Bouayad
The owners welcome everyone warmly to this family-run restaurant. The food, cooked by the women, is comforting and made with love. Diners can peer into the kitchen and watch as the women stir the tagines and skilfully spear meat onto kebabs.
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Hammam Mernissi
Originally designed as a public bath and place to socialise, hammams are something of a ritual for men and women in Morocco. Similar to a spa, you can get scrubbed, massaged, washed and pampered for a reasonable price. After the cleansing ritual, relax by the fountain with a soothing cup of mint tea. Heaven!
26 Serrajine, Bab Boujloud, Fes Medina, Fes
www.hammamfes.com 46 Serrajine, Bab Boujloud, Fes
Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail Restaurant Al Fassia
At Al Fassia you get dinner and a show; both were very good. The chicken tagine and vegetables were memorable as was the belly dancing, Berber musicians, and folk dancers. 21 rue Salaj, Medina, Fes
The mausoleum of Moulay Ismail—one of Morocco’s greatest rulers, who made Meknès his capital city in the 17th century—consists of three brightly decorated courts, a mosque, and the tombs of the sultan and his family. A visit to Moulay Ismail’s final resting place is believed to bring baraka—divine blessing. Open Saturday - Thursday 8:30am - 12:00pm
and 2:00pm - 6:00pm
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Discovering Portugal The Portuguese are known, like the Spaniards and Dutch, for their voyages and colonies around the world. Unlike the Spanish, the Portuguese were discoverers, not conquerors, and established several trade agreements with local tradesmen in Asia, South America and Africa. There are clues and hints about the country’s history and discoveries in its monuments, cuisine, music, art, and architecture. This is a country of unique and exciting blends and fusions.
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Travelling from Spain to Portugal, the sky turns a leaden grey with perpetual clouds on the horizon. The scenery also changes noticeably—lush green fields, vineyards and orchards replace the dry red raw earth. There are fewer mountains; instead, gentle hills, small towns and sleepy villages. On the outskirts of Lisbon lies Belém, the famous historical part of the city where Vasco da Gama set off on his numerous voyages around the world. There are several monuments and sculptures that depict his importance—his tomb is placed in the majestic Jerónimos Monastery tucked back from the riverbank. Small cafes and shops line the main street, amongst them the world famous cafe Pastéis de Belém where travellers can sample the delectable custard tarts that make this town so famous. Creamy, flavourful custard protected by the lightest, flakiest pastry is a heavenly snack with a cup of espresso coffee.
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In Lisbon, the city is relatively quiet, until dusk falls—football fans pour out into the streets cheering and whooping for their team, the Bairro Alto, the narrow streets and alleys are packed with people clutching drinks and having a good time. This weekend marks the start of a number of summer festivals which are accentuated by the festive lights, banners, confetti, and music that fills the balmy night sky. The tourists struggle up and down the steep hills during the night, looking for traditional bars and caverns that serve authentic peri peri chicken, but the locals head for their favourite bars and are content to stay there for most of the night. The smell of bacalau and smoked chorizo infuses the air, mingling with the cigarette smoke and beer that adds to the festivities. Like Spain, people in Portugal embrace the concept of tapas in the evenings, sharing platters of finger food and snacking on small portions of cured or smoked meat, cheese and bread.
By day, one can appreciate Lisbon’s unique architecture (for even here, the Moors left their mark and influence), history, and the impact of the Great Lisbon Earthquake in 1755 that shook most of the Iberian Peninsula and even North Africa. The Chiado district is famous for its shopping and the café A Brasileira where the celebrated author Fernando Pessoa frequently enjoyed a cup of coffee. Incidentally, this café also boasts the best Bica espresso, which is smooth, creamy and goes down a treat at any time of the day. From here, one can see the Alfama and Mouraria districts where the Moorish and Muslim influences are still quite strong. Despite this, these areas are where you will find a large number of Fado bars—Fado music is typically Portuguese with melancholic tunes and lyrics. Images (clockwise from top-left): The vibrant Bairro Alto district in Lisbon; trams in Porto; views of the Alfama district in Lisbon.
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The Portuguese people are defined by Fado, Faith and Football (also known as the three ‘Fs’ of Portuguese culture)—in a way, this has contributed to the generalisation that Portuguese people are deeply passionate and melancholic. While this is true, they are also incredibly friendly, helpful and generous with their time.
with references to prominent Portuguese monuments thrown in to add to the eccentric style. The preservation of historical artefacts and objects used by the Royal Family is incredible to see in each of the rooms—restoration and conservation work is constant with several trompel’oeil designs, stuccos and painted walls requiring attention and care.
Sintra is a charming country town, only about an hour’s drive from Lisbon—this is where the Portuguese Royal Family holidayed and escaped the summer heat and city life. Although there are a number of retreats and estates, The Moorish Castle, Sintra National Palace and Pena National Palace are the biggest attractions.
The surrounding park is filled with native and exotic flora and fauna from all corners of the globe. With only two exit and entry gates, the park is a labyrinth, but peaceful and literally a breath of fresh air— the numerous paths lead to several points of interest in the park, including lookouts, lonely cottages and sheds.
The Pena National Palace sits proudly atop a hill above Sintra; the vibrant pink, yellow and purple façade can easily been seen from miles around. The intentional mixture of eclectic styles includes the Neo-Gothic, Neo-Manueline, Neo-Islamic and Neo-Renaissance
Wandering the main streets of Sintra, they are certainly livelier than the serene Pena Park, but it is still a tranquil haven that one could easily get used to. On the way to Porto, a stop at a winery in the Gaia district is a must. The district is filled with caves of ageing port
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wine, restaurants, and wineries, and taking in panoramic views of the city of Porto rising above the Duoro River while sipping on a 20-year-old tawny fills in an afternoon quite quickly. On the other side of the river, Porto is a quiet town despite the number of students living there. Colourful buildings line the cobbled streets, shop windows feature the latest fashions, art galleries display weird and wonderful objects, and the cafes are always filled with locals and tourists seeking respite from the cold wind and drizzle that perpetually interrupts the day. The locals always carry a jacket and sunglasses because the weather can change at any moment. A cruise on the Duoro River allows travellers to appreciate the quaint architecture and take in the scenery—vast areas of parks and green spaces dotted with clusters of brightly coloured buildings perched on cliffs and tucked into the hills. Like Lisbon, Porto is also quite hilly and uneven, but this also provides
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several unexpected vantage points throughout the city. While there are many historical and beautiful buildings, churches and streets, a walk in the less touristy areas reveals the contemporary culture and lifestyle of people in Porto. There are several independent cafes and tea houses and bars, some with gardens in the back where you can relax with a pot of chai tea and take in the tranquillity. There are shopping precincts owned and managed by groups of artists where you can pick up unique souvenirs and gifts. The Crystal Palace Gardens in Porto are also beautiful with native and imported plants and flowers, but the star attraction here are the peacocks that wander about freely and proudly. Oblivious to their human audience, the male birds chase the females, fanning and rustling their gorgeous feathers.
Majestic Café at the end of the street is a welcome relief. Despite the grandiose décor and impeccably dressed waiters, the café is full of all sorts of people; couples, businessmen, families, groups of tourists, students, and men and women enjoy their solitude. It’s the perfect place to relieve sore legs and do a spot of people watching while snacking on some custard tarts and sipping a soothing cup of coffee. Porto is noticeably smaller and quieter than Lisbon, but no less beautiful or short of historical anecdotes, cafes, bars, restaurants and friendly locals.
Images (clockwise from top-left): A monumental tribute to the Portuguese explorers during the Age of Discovery, Belém; The Museum of Modern Design in Lisbon; the Palacio Pena, Sintra; wild peacocks in the Crystal Palace gardens, Porto; in remembrance of Salgueiro Maia, one of the captains of the Portuguese Army who led the revolutionary forces during the Carnation Revolution. Next page: views of the city of Porto from the Duoro River.
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Palacio Pena
The Palacio Pena is an extraordinary palace built on the top of the hill in Sintra. Visitors admire the building itself and the views overlooking the city and countryside. Sintra is only about an hour’s drive from Lisbon and on a clear day the city is visible on the horizon.
Pastéis de Belém
Open daily from 9:30am 7:00pm
Anybody who knows anything about Portuguese custard tarts will tell you that the best tarts are made at Pastéis de Belém. The cafe is deceptively small from the front and don’t mind the exceptionally long line snaking out into the street—it moves quickly.
Closed 25 December and 1 January.
Open daily from 8:00am - 11:00pm Rua Belém 84-92, 1300-085 Lisbon
Explore the palace at your leisure and the surrounding gardens which boast exotic flora and fauna since the Age of Discovery.
Visit www.parquesdesintra.pt for more information.
Café A Brasileira
When the Portuguese landed in Brazil they discovered coffee and imported it back to Portugal. Naturally, this magical elixir was welcomed and you can find the best Bica espresso coffee at Café A Brasileira. Open daily from 8:00am - 2:00am Rua Garrett 120, 1200 Lisbon
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Taylor’s Port
Taylor’s Port is one of Porto’s highly-regarded port houses. Visitors will be given the opportunity to learn about the fascinating history of Port wine on a guided tour. Upon completing the tour, guests will taste three Port wines. Afterwards, relax on the terrace, which has magnificent views over the city. Monday - Friday Saturday - Sunday
Pedro dos Frangos
This cheap and cheerful restaurant is filled with locals watching the soap operas on television as they munch on spit roasted chicken and bacalau. The local diners peer at the tourists’ meals and nod approvingly when they see them enjoying the humble, yet delicious meals. Open daily from 12:00pm to 11:00pm Rua do Bonjardim 223, 4000 Porto
10:00am – 6:00pm 10:00am – 5:00pm
The last tour leaves about an hour before closing time.
Sandeman’s New Europe Tours
Sandeman tours are a fantastic way to start exploring a new city—guides are locals and expats who have lived in Lisbon long enough to learn all of its secrets and are passionate about its culture and history. Lisbon is a colourful city with an amazing history. The tours run year round on all major holidays except Queen’s Day (April 30th). Free tours start at 11:00am and 2:00pm at the Camões Monument in Largo de Camões. 42 \\ Travel Europe
Majestic Cafe
This is the cafe where author JK Rowling spent many hours drinking cimbalinos. From the Belle Epoque interior and refined menu it is easy to see why. Open Monday - Saturday from 9:30am to 12:00am Rua Santa Catarina 112, 4000-442 Porto
Pastéis de nata\\Recipe
Skill \ Difficult
Pastéis de nata were created before the 18th century by Catholic monks at the Jerónimos Monastery in Lisbon.
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At the time, convents and monasteries used large quantities of egg-whites to starch clothes. The leftover egg yolks were used to make cakes and pastries, including the world-famous Pastéis de nata or Pastéis de Belém. 3 egg yolks 115 gms caster sugar 2 Tblsp cornflour 230 mls cream 170 mls milk 2 tsp vanilla extract 300 gms rolled puff pastry
Lightly grease a 12-hole standard muffin tray. Put the egg yolks, sugar and cornflour in a pan and whisk together. Gradually whisk in the cream and milk until smooth. Place the pan over a medium heat and cook, stirring, until the mixture thickens and comes to the boil. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla extract. Transfer the custard to a bowl; cover the surface with cling film to prevent a skin forming and leave to cool.
Press the pastry rounds into the muffin tin. Spoon the cooled custard into the pastry cases and bake for 20-25 minutes, or until the pastry and custard are golden. Leave the tarts in the tin for 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Dust a little cinnamon and icing sugar before serving.
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Cut the pastry dough sheet in half, put one half on top of the other and set aside for 5 minutes. Roll up the pastry tightly from the short end and cut the pastry log into 12x1cm rounds. Lay each pastry round on a lightly floured surface and use a rolling pin to roll out until each is approximately 10cm in diameter.
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ad for adrid
Images on opposite page (clockwise from top-left): The city of Madrid’s motto: “On water I was built, my walls are made of fire”; the heart of Madrid - Plaza Mayor. 44 \\ Travel Europe
The capital of the country, the economic and political hub offers travellers a wide array of museums, galleries, historical monuments and buildings, shopping districts, nightlife, culture and leisurely activities. The Reina Sofia Gallery and Prado Museum are perhaps the better known and internationally acclaimed art galleries boasting the best of Spanish art and history. The Malasaña district is filled with bars and late night eateries, as is La Latina, which more famously known for its clubs and nightlife.
As Madrid is the political heart and soul, it is not uncommon to see protestors, tents, banners and signs congregating in the Plaza del Sol—one of the largest and most central stations and squares in Madrid. The streets leading away from the plaza offer a variety of shopping, eating precincts, and Chueca, the gay and lesbian district where there is always a party in the streets in the evenings and everyone is decked out in the rainbow flag or dazzling costumes. There is no shortage of bars, theatres and clubs here.
The Plaza Mayor is the hub and meeting point for all city tours; by day there are crowds of tourists milling about the square marvelling at the architecture and sculpture of King Philip III in the middle. In the cool of the evening, the cafes and restaurants in the Plaza extend their seating capacity by putting out extra chairs and tables in the square where people can relax in the evening sun and enjoy the lively atmosphere as the night lights are turned on and live bands tune their instruments.
This capital city is also a hub for emigrants and students, and the city has evolved, introducing more exotic restaurants and bars. The tapas bars and pubs still do a roaring trade and co-exist peacefully with the new electric cocktail lounges, nightclubs featuring the latest American and European DJs, and trendy restaurants. As all international cities do, Madrid caters for all tastes and styles— you just need to know where to find it.
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San Gines Churros - this is where you will find the best churros con chocolate in Madrid. If the walls plastered with photographs of celebrities, politicians and international stars doesn’t convince you, one bite of their fresh crunchy-on-the-outside-fluffy-onthe-inside sticks of heaven dipped in dark chocolate will...
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Reina Sofia Musuem - home to Picasso’s Guernica, the Museum also features a number of contemporary Spanish artists and an extensive collection of 20th century art. Visit http://www.museoreinasofia.es for more information about tickets and visiting hours.
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Malasaña district - is an area of Madrid with a creative and countercultural scene similar to that of Camden Town in London, the East Village in New York City, and Baixa do Porto in Oporto. It is a vibrant neighborhood where the local hipsters frequent lively bars and clubs Chueca/Justicia - For five days at the beginning of the summer, Chueca is an appealing place containing five stages and outdoor bars, allowing hundreds of thousands to revel in the open air. Lonely Planet describes it as “extravagantly gay, lively young, and always inclusive regardless of your sexual orientation.”
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Empanada\\Recipe
Skill \ Difficult
There’s a lot of debate over whether empanadas are Spanish or South American—either way, these are a delicious snack, perfect for picnics and tapas spreads. This recipe for homemade empanada dough makes approximately 40 empanadas if using an 88mm cutter 6 cups allpurpose flour
Mix the flour, salt and paprika in a food processor.
½ tsp salt
Add the butter, egg and water until a clumpy dough forms.
½ tsp paprika 340 gms unsalted butter, chilled and cut into cubes 2 eggs 8–10 Tblsp water
Form a ball, flatten slightly, and chill in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes. Roll out the dough into a sheet approximately 3mm thin and cut out round disc shapes using a cookie cutter or bowl.
To assemble the empanadas, place a spoonful of the filling on the middle of each empanada disc. The amount of filling will vary based on the size of the dough discs, but it’s easier to seal an empanada that isn’t overstuffed. To seal the empanadas, fold the disc in half and seal the edges by pressing the dough with your fingers. If you’re having a hard time sealing the edges, you can brush the inside edges with egg white, which will act as a glue. You can also press a fork against the edges to help seal them. For the curl type seal, use your fingers to twist and curl the edges. For best results, refrigerate the stuffed empanadas for at least 30 minutes before baking as it prevents the filling from leaking out. If you want your empanadas to have a nice golden finish, you can brush them with a little egg wash (one whisked egg plus a teaspoon of milk). Preheat the oven at 180°C and bake the empanadas for 20-30 minutes. They are ready when golden.
Now that your dough is ready, you can fill your empanadas with whatever filling you’d like. Here we’ve recreated two classic flavours: Espinach (Spinach) and Atun (Tuna).
Espinach\\Spinach
Atun\\Tuna
1 Tblsp olive oil
Heat oil on a medium heat.
1 Tblsp olive oil
200 gms spinach (frozen or baby spinach leaves)
Sautee onion and garlic until the onions are soft. Add the spinach and cook until the spinach has wilted.
95 gms tinned tuna
½ Spanish onion finely chopped
Add the paprika, cheese, white wine and lemon juice. Cook for another 5 minutes until all the flavours have been incorporated and white wine reduced.
1 garlic clove finely chopped
1 garlic clove finely chopped ½ tsp paprika
Season with salt and pepper.
½ cup grated manchego or parmesan cheese
Set mixture aside to cool.
¼ cup dry Spanish sherry or white wine 1 Tblsp lemon juice Salt and pepper to taste
½ brown onion finely chopped
1 small red capsicum finely chopped ½ tsp paprika 1 hard-boiled egg roughly chopped Salt and pepper to taste
Heat oil in a pan over medium heat. Sautee onion and garlic until the onions are soft. Add the capsicum and cook for 3 minutes until all the flavours are combined. Add the tuna and paprika and cook for 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Set mixture aside; once cooled mix in the hard-boiled eggs.
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San Sebastian feels like its own country; yes, it’s part of Spain, but it’s also part of France. Yet it is its own country: Basque Country. Here the language bears no resemblance whatsoever to Spanish or French. The old town is absolutely breathtaking, with the Atlantic Ocean bordering the west and lush green hills gently sloping to the east. The people here have style, which is only to be expected from the city boasting the biggest Zara in the world and a multitude of international and local brands lining the streets. The Old Town sits below the hill at the westernmost part of the city. Images (clockwise from topleft): The biggest Zara outlet in the world; Art Nouveau style streetlights; Art Nouveau architecture; children playing on the steps of the cathedral in the Old Town; El Buen Pastor Cathedral; pintxos— anchovies with pickled vegetables and balsamic syrup; Playa de la Concha. 50 \\ Travel Europe
The enormous cathedral where children play on the steps overlooks the tiny pedestrianised lanes crammed with pintxos bars, shops, cafes and tattoo parlours, and the town square. The majestic Town Hall marks the end of the pedestrianised zone and so begins the walkway along the curved beach. Lined with pristine white elaborate lights, Art Deco style hotels and resorts overlooking the sea, this is the perfect holiday town in Europe.
During the day, the beach is packed with people enjoying the sun, sand and blue sky; those who go for a dip in the crystal blue waters have the option of swimming out to sea but most are content to lie on the beach and let the waves tickle their toes. The streets are livelier at dusk, especially in the old town where bars begin to fill up with die-hard football fans there to watch the game with a glass of cold beer and an array of snacks and pintxos at their disposal for the next few hours. The tourists flock to the main square in the old town where overzealous waiters whip out chairs, fly through the crowds with trays of drinks balancing precariously over their heads, and scribble down orders on notebooks. Buskers and performers start to warm up with a few jokes, daring acts on unicycles, juggle miscellaneous objects and beat out rhythms on their makeshift instruments. The best part about this peaceful town is undoubtedly the food. With more awardwinning and Michelin-starred bars and restaurants packed into this tiny town,
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there seems to be unlimited choice for snacks and pintxos. There are woodenpanelled, traditional bars serving up unique, yet humble combinations such as tuna with gherkins and pickled onions on skewers, arancini balls with jamon and potatoes, chorizo with manchego cheese, stuffed peppers, and sautéed mushrooms. At the other end of the spectrum, there are state-of-the-art stainless steel and tiled bars brimming with people watching the chef work his magic behind the counter—cooking is the wrong word here. Alchemy fits better, as he carefully pours colourful purees and reductions into bowls of clear liquid where they instantly set into translucent balls of flavour. Another chef pulls a batch of jellified quinelles from a liquid bath and artfully arranges them on a serving platter—a quick garnish of nuts, edible flowers and a spoonful of minuscule coloured balls clumped together complete the dish. The flavours explode in the mouth and the tastebuds are sent into a frenzy as sweet, salty, savoury, sweet, chilli and
tangy do the fandango. To this day, I have absolutely no idea what I ate back there but it was the most delicious and delectable mouthful I’ve ever had. Part of the fun at these bars is trying to guess what’s in those jellies and custards. The only ingredients I recognised on that counter were prawns, quail eggs and a few vegetables, but even their flavours were twisted past recognition when combined with all the other ingredients. San Sebastian will certainly change the way you look at food and how the most humble ingredients can taste incredibly delicious when paired with the right flavours and accompaniments. As a holiday destination, it is one that will lure you back time and time again with the beautiful beach, conveniently located shopping and eating precincts and the laid-back atmosphere. Summertime perfection!
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Pintxos
A typical snack of the Basque Country, “pintxos” (pronounced pin-chohs) consist of small slices of baguette on which an ingredient or mixture of ingredients is placed and held together with a toothpick, which gives the food its name “pintxo”, meaning “spike.” The toothpick also helps keep track of the number of items that the customer has eaten. Sometimes, differently priced pintxos have toothpicks of different shapes or sizes. Almost any ingredient can be put on the bread, but the most commonly used in the Basque Country include hake, cod, anchovy; tortilla de patatas; stuffed peppers; jamon; and croquettes. Pintxos can be simple and wholesome or very sophisticated and elegant, sometimes consisting of very elaborate fish, seafood, or meats.
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Pintxos, like tapas is a great way to socialise. Typically, a group of friends will go from one tavern to another, drinking small glasses of wine or beer and eating pintxos. Some bars have televisions which broadcast football matches, some have music, and in others the customers create the ambiance. A few good places to start your pintxos fiesta in San Sebastian/Donostia include: Bartolo
Fermin Calbeton Kalea 38, 20003 Donostia
Bar Tamboril
Calle de Pescadería 2, 20003 Donostia
Bar Zeruko
Calle Pescaderia 10, 20003 Donostia
Restaurante Calle de Fermín Calbetón Munto Jatetxea 17, 20003 Donostia
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