Beanscene Jun 2021 by Prime Group

A World-Class Coffee Magazine

JUNE 2021

Lead by example Committing to a sustainable future Merlo Coffee’s northern legacy A new era of shipping container cafés

Lavazza’s global pledge What roasters really want

NZ $11.95 No.57 ISSN 1449-2547

9 771449 254002

NITRO

THE PLUG & PLAY SOLUTION

The TONE NITRO incorporates an integrated cooler and uses nitrogen from the air instead of high-pressure nitrogen cylinders to deliver maximum performance and space efficiency in the workplace. The addition of nitrogen enriches your beverages by giving them a smooth, velvety texture with a foamy surface no matter whether iced coffee/ tea or sophisticated cocktail creations. Nitro has a 5 liters plug & play canister and works in unison with Touch 01 to deliver a total solution that generates a wow factor.

TOUCH 01

MULTIFUNCTIONALITY AT ITS BEST

One device, delivering coffee and tea, hot and iced at the touch of a button with a bulk brewer 2-4 liters. The TONE IBS – Intelligent Brewing System - allows the barista to adjust the key brewing parameters and find the optimal extraction. The intuitive interface facilitates programming and total control of water volume, temperature and time of extraction. Perfect for the barista’s daily operations.

TOUCH

THE FIRST BOILERLESS BATCH BREWER The most revolutionary brewer on today‘s market. TONE boilerless Touch 03 features a state-of-the-art brewing system that sustainably channels brew water through a highly innovative heating element that eliminates the need for a traditional heating phase. Touch 03 can reach 94°C / 201° F within 2 seconds after powering on and brew batches from 250 ml to 2 liters. The Touch 03 offers two working mode, basic and advanced. In basic mode, the Tone 03 comes with four pre-defined temperature and pulsation built-in and labelled as mild, medium, bold, and xbold. In advanced mode, the barista is empowered to easily adjust brew recipes to profile various coffee and tea beverages by controlling (via tablet) at different stages of brewing (blooming-, turbulence-, development-) the temperature, brew time, delays, volume flow and pulse patterns.

sales@baristagroup.com.au www.baristagroup.com.au

JUNE 2021

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contents UPFRONT

10 NEWS 12 STUFF ON THE SCENE INDUSTRY PROFILES

14 KNOWLEDGE LEADER

Merlo Coffee’s Dean Merlo on taking many first steps in the Queensland coffee industry

18 CELEBRITY CHEF

Stefano de Pieri on preserving Australia’s largest food bowl and the origins of the caffè latte

23 META CALLING

Lavazza puts its social, environmental and cultural attention to the Colombian region of Meta

27 PRECIOUS CARGO

Barista Technology Australia presents the container café solution

31 COFFEE FOR EVERYONE

Carlos Escobar of Toby’s Estate on a mission to make specialty coffee more inclusive

35 OAT OF THE LAB

Milklab launches its latest plant-based product

39 HOME IS WHERE THE HEART IS Veneziano Coffee Roasters on the rise of coffee subscriptions

beanscenemag.com.au

43 SOY FAR SOY GOOD

82 GARY GOES PRO

47 CREATING COFFEE

SKILL BASE

The Alternative Dairy Co reformulates its Barista Soy Milk recipe CONNECTIONS

Wolff Coffee Roasters revitalises its Farmer in Residency program

52 DYNAMIC VISION

Espressology on why quality will always remain the key to success

54 ROASTERS REUNITE The countdown to MICE2021 is on

SUSTAINABILITY FEATURE

SUSTAINABLE FOCUS

Leading companies talk about their commitments, products and services that contribute to a healthier planet

TECHNOLOGY FOCUS

78 NOW AN BEYOND

La Marzocco reveals the results of its annual roaster market survey

80 A COMMUNE COLLABORATION Phillip Di Bella on his longstanding relationship with IMF roasters and sustainable roasting solutions

Gary Mehigan becomes the ambassador of the Rancilio Silvia Pro espresso machine

90 TRAINING TACTICS

Babin Gurung’s top café set-up and workstation tips for ultimate workflow

92 A BARISTA’S GUIDE TO DAIRY ALTERNATIVES

Matthew Lewin on how to get the best out of almond milk

ESPRESSO YOURSELF

Australian Latte Art Champion Victor Vu debuts his Peter Pan design

CAFÉ SCENE

84 CAFÉ SCENE

Around Australia

88 TALKING SENSE

BRITA’s Birgit Kohler on how sensory attributes contribute to our understanding of water and coffee

97 NZSCA

Emma McDougall uncovers the rise of the New Zealand Barista Championship. Part 2

98 PEOPLE ON THE MOVE Celebrating industry movements

Our Plant-based Milks come to you 100%

CARBON NEUTRAL happyhappysoyboy

vershoot o c e n e c S n Bea

PUBLISHER Christine Clancy christine.clancy@primecreative.com.au MANAGING EDITOR Sarah Baker sarah.baker@primecreative.com.au ASSISTANT EDITOR Ethan Miller ethan.miller@primecreative.com.au

The Pantry 1 Church St, Brighton, VIC 3186 WWW.PANTRY.COM.AU

ART DIRECTOR Blake Storey

Our June cover shoot couldn’t have been a more Melbourne experience if we tried. On commute to The Pantry in Brighton, Victoria, the sky turned black, the heavens opened up, and down came a heavy downpour. Minutes later, the sunshine returned. When BeanScene Editor Sarah Baker and regular photographer Blake Storey scouted the venue, The Pantry was a buzz with options, from large street-facing windows to marble table textures and beautiful indoor plants. But it was outside, among the glistening water-covered tables and seats, underneath the autumn leaves, that we found our winning spot. The Pantry baristas produced espresso and piccolos on repeat, using Lavazza’s La Reserva de ¡Tierra! Colombia, thanks to the Lavazza Foundation’s origin projects in the Meta region. Here, the ¡Tierra! projects support 100 local farming families to restore their plantations, improve coffee quality, and create sustainable working conditions. “The power of local community connection has never been more important, both at origin at here in Australia. As a reminder, long-time Lavazza partner, The Pantry, welcomed a mural of the Tierra Tree of life, with local artist Georgia Harvey to help build community awareness about this important project.” The mural, which became the background for the June covershoot, symbolises the connection between the coffee growers, the blenders, the Lavazza local roastery in Melbourne, and the local café. “Being a part of this initiative that allows our community to support the sustainable future of coffee is something truly special,” says The Pantry owner Guy Mainwaring. BeanScene Editor Sarah says being able to share this story with the cover opportunity is the perfect way for Lavazza to continue its sustainable dialogue. “We loved coming down to The Pantry, learning more about its commitment to Lavazza’s La Reserva de ¡Tierra! Colombia and seeing this delicious and meaningful PL coffee ANT-Bserved ASED MItoLKthe S CRAFSarah local community,” TED FOsays. R BARISTAS Lead by example “The final cover image is a powerful reminder of coffee’s incredible power to connect – from Lavazza’s Italian heritage in Turin, to the Meta region in Colombia, right the coastal suburb of Brighton.”

DESIGN Kerry Pert, Madeline McCarty BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER Courtney Walker courtney.walker@primecreative.com.au CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Zelda Tupicoff zelda.tupicoff@primecreative.com.au DESIGN PRODUCTION MANAGER Michelle Weston michelle.weston@primecreative.com.au CLIENT SUCCESS TEAM LEADER Janine Clements janine.clements@primecreative.com.au PHOTOGRAPHY Blake Storey CONTRIBUTORS Birgit Kohler, Matthew Lewin, Babin Garung, Victor Vu, Emma McDougall HEAD OFFICE Prime Creative Pty Ltd 11-15 Buckhurst Street South Melbourne VIC 3205 p: 03 9690 8766 f: 03 9682 0044 enquiries@primecreative.com.au www.beanscenemagazine.com.au SUBSCRIPTIONS 03 9690 8766 subscriptions@primecreative.com.au BeanScene magazine is available by subscription from the publisher. The rights of refusal are reserved by the publisher.

JUNE 2021

We have one mission. Create plant-base d milks that are perfected We are driven by using what nature for baristas. gave us to achieve experience in a cup. that elusive ultimate From our processes to our ingredient ethos means we s, our alternative are forever pushing the boundaries to alternatives for cafes craft the best non-dairy

A World- Class Coffee Magazi ne

Committing to a sustain

Merlo Coffee’s northern legacy

JUNE 2021

#ALTERNATIVEBYNATURE /altdcbarista

What roasters really

beanscenemag.com.au

@altdcbarista

A new era of shippin g container cafés

Lavazza’s global pledge

NZ $11.95 No.57 ISSN 1449-2547

altdairyco.com 9 771449 254002

beanscenemag.com.au

want

able future

ARTICLES All articles submitted for publication become the property of the publisher. The Editor reserves the right to adjust any article to conform with the magazine format. COPYRIGHT

BeanScene magazine is owned by Prime Creative Media and published by Christine Clancy. All material in BeanScene magazine is copyright and no part may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means (graphic, electronic or mechanical including information and retrieval systems) without written permission of the publisher. The Editor welcomes contributions but reserves the right to accept or reject any material. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information Prime Creative Media will not accept responsibility for errors or omissions or for any consequences arising from reliance on information published. The opinions expressed in BeanScene magazine are not necessarily the opinions of, or endorsed by, the publisher unless otherwise stated.

The new black

CONTRIBUTORS In each issue of BeanScene we profile a few of our talented contributors. Babin Gurung is the New South Wales Barista Trainer of Suntory Coffee Australia. With a Masters degree in accounting from the University of Southern Queensland, the only numbers Babin crunches these days are extraction and dose times. He came to Australia from Nepal 11 years ago to study, fell in love with coffee, and hasn’t looked back. Babin has worked at many different cafés in Sydney, and now enjoys sharing his coffee knowledge and skills to help build a new generation of baristas.

Matthew Lewin is the 2019 ASCA Vitasoy Barista Champion, and Vitasoy ambassador and coffee consultant. Matthew has worked in the coffee industry for the past 10 years, honing his barista skills and coffee knowledge. He won the 2018 Fushan Cup Barista Championship in China. Matthew is currently the Sales and Guest Roaster Manager for Ona Coffee, and heads up its Research and Development team.

Birgit Kohler is the Head of Organoleptic Department at BRITA, where her focus is on understanding the sensory perception of water, tea, and coffee, and bringing this knowledge into product development. Birgit is a trained water sommelière, receiving qualifications from the renowned Doemens Genussakademie in Germany, alongside having a background of studies in nutrition science, and qualifications as a coach.

Victor Vu is the 2020 ASCA Australian Pauls Professional Latte Art Champion. Born in Vietnam, Victor worked for three years in hospitality before coming to Australia where he has spent the past six years perfecting his latte art skills. Victor won the 2018 Milklab Barista Battle, 2019 Victorian Breezey Masters, 2020 ASCA Southern Regional Latte Art Championship, and the National title. He is currently completing his hospitality studies and works at Ona Coffee Melbourne.

Emma McDougall is the Communication and Administration Coordinator for the NZSCA. After gaining a degree in hospitality management, Emma has worked in Sydney, Dublin, Auckland, London, and most recently, Wellington. She has owned and managed cafés and tech-judged the New Zealand Barista Championship in 2015 and 2016. Now, she gets to help run them. One of the greatest joys she gets from the coffee industry is watching young people progress through their coffee journey.

A word from the Editor

EVERYONE’S RESPONSIBILITY

ustainability. One word, yet with so many different connotations depending who you speak to. In my world, the idea of sustainability springs to mind when I take my collection of six reusable bags to Coles on the weekend – a treasured supply from roasters over the years. It’s front of mind when driving my car to work, watching my neighbour unnecessarily wash his concrete driveway, and when I bring my reusable coffee cup to a local favourite for that feel good moment. It was even behind the gusty intention of my sister who tapped on the window of a litter bug on the weekend, insisting they pick up the takeaway bags we watched thrown out the window. In some way or another, sustainability dictates our every move. In this edition of BeanScene, we were overwhelmed by the number of companies wishing to share their sustainable ethos, product, and service. What was more surprising, is that many had embraced a sustainability strategy from the beginning, yet only now does there seem mounting pressure to have one. These days, demonstrating a sustainable philosophy can be the very thing that determines a customer sale, or an employee’s commitment. No longer is producing a quality coffee or product enough. Consumers want more. They’re demanding more from the companies they purchase from. In a crowded market, it’s this willingness to listen and adapt for the health of our planet that are making the most impact. So, in this edition, let’s celebrate the businesses that have pledged to do more, let’s educate ourselves, raise awareness, and vow to do better. The estimated one billion coffee cups that end up in landfill each year in Australia are our collective problem and so is the irreversible climate damage should we, as a country, not make more of an ambitious target to cut carbon emissions. The coffee industry is just one contributing piece of a very large pie, but together, with small tangible actions within our reach, we can leave an imprint for good.

SARAH BAKER

beanscenemag.com.au

NEWS

ST ALI ICED COFFEE LAUNCHES IN WOOLIES From 25 May, St Ali Iced Coffee will be available in more than 410 Woolworths supermarkets Australia-wide. “This is exciting news for the Australian coffee community and coffee drinkers alike. We are one of the first to introduce an iced coffee using specialty coffee and fresh milk into supermarkets,” says Salvatore Malatesta, CEO of St Ali. “Arriving at the right coffee to milk ratio was a unique challenge for us, something we’ve been working on for the past year and a half. We had the knowledge to do it, but there are so many more considerations when working with fresh milk and producing an iced coffee product in large volumes. Thankfully through our partnership with Riverina

Fresh we made it happen.” The 300-millilitre Iced Coffee packaged in gable-top cartons contains St Ali’s Orthodox blend, combining Brazil and Colombia lots, with significantly less sugar compared to many other iced coffee products. “From our years of experience as roasters, we know coffee, we know our flavours and we are confident the balance of 85 per cent coffee to fresh milk is spot on to allow the natural sweetness of the coffee and lactose from the milk to shine without needing to add high volumes of sugar,” Salvatore says. “This Iced Coffee is a product for people who take coffee seriously.” To promote the new launch, St Ali will

St Ali’s new Iced Coffee uses its Orthodox blend and Riverina Fresh milk.

unveil a marketing campaign including billboards in Melbourne and a full digital campaign in Sydney. Salvatore says he’s eager to see the product reach new audiences, including Australia’s surfing community. “We’ve learned from our customers, especially those up north and on the central coast, that they want a cold coffee product to suit the warmer climate. And for those who jump straight out of the surf, they’re looking for a refreshing, tasty cold coffee they can smash with their fish ‘n chips. We want them tasting the best cold coffee product available.”

St Ali Iced Coffee is now available in Woolworths supermarkets.

BRAZILIAN FARM BECOMES CARBON POSITIVE The Santo Antonio, Pinhal, Vertentes, and Mirante farms of Brazilian coffee producers Pedro and Mariana Gabarra have received Carbon Positive status, following a year-long third party assessment and audit of the farm’s

Pedro Gabarra and his father, Joao Newton Teixeira, embrace sustainability at their farms.

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carbon emissions. Carbon positive or ‘free carbon’ means the farms remove more CO2 from the atmosphere than they generate. “The path we’ve been following for some years, which is to pursue an increasingly sustainable production, is working and bringing good results,” Pedro says. Pinhal was named the most sustainable farm in Brazil for 2019 by Globo Rural, a respected agricultural publication. To reduce emissions across their farms, the Gabarras use S10 Diesel across their entire vehicle fleet, implemented solar panels to generate clean every, and control and treat liquid waste. The total removal of CO2 was mainly achieved through areas planted with eucalyptus responsible for offsetting 84.42 per cent of emissions. Existing native forests on Pedro’s land were the second largest source of carbon offset, at 10.92 per cent of the total. Pedro’s coffee plantations were responsible for the remaining 4.66 per cent of carbon offset.

“The idea is to start with small changes then move to larger ones. The first step is to change the mindset in the search for sustainable production,” Pedro says. “Do what is within your reach, in individual and collective attitudes. Then seek partnerships for solutions and be attentive and open for changes.” Pedro Gabarra’s coffee is available in Australia through Minas Hill Coffee. Mariana Pugliese of Minas Hill Coffee says Pedro’s certification reaffirms why the trader has chosen to partner with the progressive farmer. “Its important in our industry to make connections that promote transparency, traceability, and sustainability. We’re not only supporting Pedro because his coffee tastes great, but because his values are aligned with ours,” Mariana says. “We’ve seen many Australian roasters work to become carbon neutral and it’s reassuring to see people around the world do the same for their coffee business. Minimising emissions is how we can advance and secure our industry for the future.”

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STUFF ON THE SCENE

Stuff on the scene THE CUPPAMOKA

Enjoy pour over coffee anywhere with the all new Cuppamoka by Wacaco. No bigger than a cup, the Cuppamoka is a compact and lightweight travel pour over coffee system, designed to save space in your bag and be easily transported. Simple to use, the Cuppamoka will help get the best out of your grind wherever you are and offers everything you need to brew a smooth, clean cup of coffee every time. Drink your coffee from the included stainless steel, double-walled mug, or pop on the easy sip lid and take your coffee anywhere you go. For more information, visit www.coffeetools.supply

LA RESERVA DE ¡TIERRA! COLOMBIA La Reserva de ¡Tierra! Colombia contains coffee from the Meta region, where armed conflict interrupted coffee-growing for a long time. Today, the Lavazza Foundation supports more than 100 farming families to restore plantations, improve coffee quality and productivity and create sustainable work conditions. The result is this superior blend of washed Arabica coffee from the Colombian hills of Meta, Antioquia and Huila. Aromatic harmony and a smooth taste are exalted by the typical sweetness, with a refined acidity and rich body. It includes hints of tropical fruits combined with the scent of lime zest and jasmine flowers. The roast is long, delicate and gentle, thanks to the traditional drum method which preserves aromas and guarantees a lingering flavour. For more information, visit www.lavazzabusinesssolutions.com.au

MARKIBAR IZAGA GRINDER The Markibar Izaga grinder is designed for workflow and is purpose-built for speed and consistency. It combines excellence in practicality and functionality. The grinder features two operating modes: Pre-Grind and Grind On Demand. In Pre-Grind mode, the Izaga delivers an instant dose, allowing baristas to allocate time spent grinding elsewhere in their workflow, saving up to seven seconds per double dose. The Izaga’s traditional workflow setting Grind On Demand will cater to off-peak periods. The Izaga also features an isolated grinding chamber with an intelligent ventilation system, enabling cooler grinding and consistent dosing. It’s efficiency without compromise on quality. Barista Group is the exclusive importer of Markibar Coffee Grinders in Australasia. For more information, visit www.baristagroup.com.au

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FLO-SMART Coffee Works Express is excited to announce its appointment as a major distribution partner for Flo-Smart, the world’s first automated hands-free chilled beverage dispensing system. Designed and manufactured in Australia, Flo-Smart’s design is centred around its capacity to dispense up to four different types of chilled beverages to one location in a seamless software-controlled environment. Its features include standard two or four tap pouring solutions, two tap simultaneous pouring, fully customisable controls, a stylish design with easy to clean surfaces, and semi-automated scheduled cleaning with data logging. Operator intervention and liquid waste is minimised. As the jug size is automatically detected, the beverage is then calibrated and dispensed to a pre-set value. Flo-Smart‘s environmental mandate is centred around reducing the use of plastics in the industry, through the systematic use of custom “bulk beverage storage” and delivery solutions potentially filled at the source. For more information, visit flo-smart.com

PRANA CHAI ORIGINAL BLEND 250G

Prana Chai is lovingly handcrafted fresh every day in Melbourne. To make the fan favourite Original Blend, Prana Chai mixes Fairtrade and Rainforest Alliance certified premium black tea leaves, whole spices, and ginger for an all-natural, preservative-free sticky chai. Then, Prana Chai gently stirs in 100 per cent Australian pure honey to bind all the aromatic flavours together. This helps the tea and spices from ‘deblending’ – ensuring each and every cup served has the same, beloved Prana Chai flavour. Over 10 years ago, Prana Chai’s founders opened a café in St Kilda and began developing a chai blend that they could serve alongside specialty coffee. As they perfected the recipe, customers grew to love their chai, and asked about serving it in their own cafés. From humble beginnings as a specialty drink at one local Melbourne café, now, Prana Chai is served by market-leading hospitality venues all around the world. Now, Prana Chai has five different blends, including a Decaf version of the Original Blend, and a Vegan version blended with low G.I. agave instead of honey. For more information, visit pranachai.com

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KNOWLEDGE LEADER

A FAMILY BUSINESS Gino Merlo brought the first espresso machine into Queensland in 1958. He passed on his passions for coffee and hospitality to son Dean, who started Merlo Coffee in 1992. From one espresso bar, Merlo Coffee has grown into 13 cafés across Queensland, one in Melbourne, and more than 1200 wholesale partners nationwide.

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Merlo’s infinity & beyond Dean Merlo of Merlo Coffee on taking many first steps in the Queensland coffee industry and how the market has evolved over the past 20 years.

ew families have had quite as big an impact on Queensland coffee and hospitality as the Merlos. Dean Merlo founded Merlo Coffee in 1992, and started roasting his own coffee in 1996, helping spearhead a new wave of quality coffee in the state. But it was actually his father, Gino Merlo, who brought espresso coffee to Queensland. “He started a restaurant called Café Milano in 1958 and brought the first espresso machine into Queensland. It was a big commitment and when it came time to service it, he had to fly someone up from Sydney, which wasn’t cheap in those days,” Dean says. “I remember drinking coffee from an early age and had always been interested in it. Coffee was only one part of what Café Milano offered though. My dad was more into wine, and the restaurant was well known for having Australia’s best wine cellar at the time.” It was an offhand comment from his father, while driving Dean to school, that would motivate him to focus his pursuits on coffee. “As a casual throwaway line, he mentioned ‘I love the coffee business, there’s great margins in it’. That was all he said, but it really stuck in my head,” Dean says. “Quite a few years later, I was travelling in the United States and saw these fantastic cafés sitting at the bottom of large city buildings, mostly serving the people working upstairs. No one had really thought to do that before in Australia, to cater to the corporate customer. I came back and started my first café at the bottom of 344 Queen Street in Brisbane.” Although Café Milano had been sold to new owners by that time in 1992, the new Merlo Coffee bar was located just down the street, so it was like coming home for Dean.

“It delivered exactly what Brisbane was looking for: an honest little café with great coffee and simple Italian flare. It was an espresso bar in every sense of the word,” he says. “I worked in that café every day for three years, then opened another on George Street with a few partners. We were getting coffee roasted for us at the time, but were finding it a bit inconsistent, so we decided to do it ourselves.” Dean and his partners bought a 30-kilogram Petroncini roaster and set it up at a site in Fortitude Valley. They even tracked down one of the people that used to roast their coffee and brought them into the business. “Whatever money we were making from the two stores was poured into the coffee company, and it wasn’t making headway for quite some time. But the cafés in the city were basically marketing the coffee brand, which helped us pick up one customer after another until Merlo Coffee became what it is today,” Dean says. Merlo Coffee now operates 13 cafés across Queensland and one in Melbourne, with more than 1200 wholesale partners across its home state and a handful more throughout the country. Dean says Merlo Coffee’s growth has been mostly organic, however, there were a few things it did first or differently to get its name out there. “There were tricks I’d seen in the States that no one was doing here yet. A big one was giving away wind barriers and umbrellas to customers who used our coffee, which gave us a strong visual presence,” he says. “We were also the first company serving coffee with a logoed cup. They were made of Styrofoam in those days, but we still went to the trouble of finding a supplier that could put the logo on both sides of the cup, so no matter how the customer was holding it, people could see where they got it. I remember having to order 25,000 in the

first lot and thinking ‘look at all the money I’m spending’ and ‘where am I going to put them?’ Now we use more than 20 million per year.” Going through so many coffee cups has also raised the importance of being sustainable to Merlo Coffee. Among other initiatives, Merlo Coffee has shifted all of its takeaway cups and lids to compostable alternatives. “No one likes to use cups that end up in waste. It’s terrible and the reality is, while the cups can be composted, unless they’re disposed properly, they all end up in the same place. We go to a lot of trouble to operate our own composting service at our cafés, where everything we use from the cutlery and serviettes to food packaging and coffee cups are compostable,” Dean says. “Everything is thrown in a compost collection bin, which we have to pay extra for, but it’s important to us. It’s amazing how much waste we’ve saved in the last couple of years.” Merlo Coffee is also improving its energy usage, with solar panels installed at its two main roasteries in Bowen Hills and Eagle Farm. That Eagle Farm site has recently undergone an upgrade and renovation, with the installation of a Brambati processing line and 360-kilogrambatchsize roasting machine. “We bought a big 120-kilogram Brambati six or seven years ago and had it blessed by a priest in a big ceremony, which was a tremendous amount of fun,” Dean says. “The new machine is being commissioned as we speak, and I look forward to throwing a big party with another priest coming down. I’m still in awe of the size of the new roaster. It seems massive, but I know we’re going to keep it busy.” Another celebration Dean looks forward to is the next annual Merlo Barista Championships. Within a set timeframe, competitors from Merlo stores across

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KNOWLEDGE LEADER

Queensland must set the grinder from scratch, then produce four espresso, four lattes, and four piccolo lattes. Those 12 coffees are then taken to a judging panel in another room. The best barista on the day wins the grand prize of two tickets to the next Melbourne International Coffee Expo. Dean says it takes a special degree of skill to win the competition, with factors like grinder calibration really adding to the challenge. Competitions like this keep the Merlo Coffee team at the top of their game, which Dean says is crucial in an industry as fast paced as hospitality. “It’s an interesting business, because as a coffee roaster, in some ways we’re selling to our competitors. But we don’t really see it that way,” Dean says. “There are so many reasons a café is successful, it’s not just the brand of coffee they use, it’s the food, opening hours, systems and processes they have in place, ‘orientation to the morning sun’ and so on. Many factors are involved, so we have no problems selling the same coffee we use to other cafés – provided they’re not right next door.” One of the biggest changes Dean has seen in the Queensland coffee industry

over the past 20 years, that really applies across the nation, is the number of companies big and small looking to get involved. “It’s always been a very competitive business, but even more so right now. I’ve seen a lot more coffee roasters accumulating, buying their own machines and starting small businesses. On the other end, these big companies are coming and buying up the more established brands. I’ve never seen so many mergers and acquisitions,” Dean says. “I think everyone in the industry has been approached at one point or another. Massive figures are being thrown around that are hard to pass up. For us, we’re a private family-owned business and I love what we do. We’re not in the market to sell, but we are considering opportunities interstate that would help us expand in a more efficient way.” Looking ahead, Dean says Australian coffee drinkers are starting to experiment beyond their traditional hot milk and espresso type coffees, and Merlo Coffee is already responding. “I’ve noticed our customers are starting to look for coffees with lighter roasts. Some people really love their AeroPress

and more are discovering filter coffee. A slightly lighter roast really works with that style and brings out a lot more aromatics,” Dean says. “Cold brew is another big trend we see growing in the industry. We’ve released our new canned cold brew range and worked hard on that, because we decided not to enter that market unless we had a product we were really proud of.” While COVID-19 and everything that came with it has hit some coffee businesses harder than others, Dean believes the coffee industry has come out stronger, with demand just as high as ever. He predicts coffee will continue to become a bigger part of people’s lives and routines. “I think people are turning away from alcohol as their main social lubricant. They’re using the local cafés to conduct more business meetings and catch up with friends and family,” Dean says. “You can get an honest cup of coffee and a nice meal and be out of there for as little as $30 to $40 for two people, so it’s a bit more cost effective than a restaurant too. But there’s more to it than price. Sitting down and having a great cup of coffee is a wonderful experience for everyone.”

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CELEBRITY CHEF

Stefano’s regional revolution

TAKE A TANTALISING TRIP For the first time in two decades, popular restaurateur Stefano de Pieri has launched a new television series, taking viewers on a unique and insightful field trip to explore one of Australia’s most productive regions, the Murray-Darling River Basin, a river community he has called home for the last 30 years.

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Celebrated Italian chef Stefano de Pieri talks to BeanScene about calling regional Victoria home, the need to preserve Australia’s largest food bowl, and the origins of the real caffè latte.

tefano de Pieri is amazed at how Australia’s coffee culture has evolved. Over the past 30 years, he’s watched consumer demands transition from “hot coffee” orders to discerning set temperatures, and the rise of the at-home barista. But most of all, he’s amazed at the nation-wide respect for the humble caffé latte, which, back in his home down of Treviso near Venice in Italy, was nothing more than a decaffeinated children’s drink. “On our farm, a real caffè latte was a decaffeinated drink called miscella leone or the lion’s blend. It had a very gentle flavour, like chocolate milk. I had it with milk every morning before school, sometimes with bread and sugar, and more often than not, with polenta. It was a plant-based mix of roasted ground chicory. Our mother simply poured hot water over it and let it decant. It was never an adult drink the way it’s consumed now. In fact, if you got to an Italian bar and ask for a caffè latte, they’ll serve it in a tall glass with hot milk as a remedy,” Stefano says. “I got my first ‘adult coffee’, however, when I was eight or nine year’s old. I remember my mum took me into the city to buy a suit for my first communion, and then we went to a pastry shop. I had a sfogliatella pastry with a cappuccino, and that was a revelation.” Stefano migrated to Australia in 1974. In his youth, he recalls visiting Melbourne’s iconic Italian coffee institutions: Pellegrini’s, University Cafe, and Brunetti, a place he’d always get a reliable coffee with a cannoli. He calls Grinders founder Giancarlo Guisti a “good friend” and “absolute pioneer”, and credits Caffè e Cucina founder Maurizio Terzini for giving coffee a “bit more of an identity” in Melbourne around 1989. “Like many people who have been in the industry for a while, we had the privilege of being among the first to introduce coffee to our respective communities. Of course, there was a generation before mine that can claim to have introduced coffee machines into Australia, but in the beginning, there was very little knowledge about properly maintaining machines. Many were kept in poor conditions and the coffee was often ground and left until the next customer ordered one,” Stefano says. “Twenty-five years ago, a big revolution took place. People finally understood

By Sarah Baker that coffee machines had to be cleaned, maintained, and descaled, and coffee beans had to be ground to order and not before time or else they’d oxidise.” Stefano worked in state politics during the late 80s and early 90s, until becoming disillusioned with his career. It was at this time he met his future wife who was studying in Melbourne. When he was taken to meet her parents in the town of Mildura, northwest Victoria on the banks of the Murray River, Stefano fell in love with the regional town and called it home from 1991. He saw it as an “opportunity for reinvention” and a time to move out of politics and start a family. Stefano even started his own café, which today still bears his name. “When we started 25 years ago, it was a challenge to introduce Italian-style coffee to a regional community. People weren’t used to it. It was a daily rebellion from customers that our coffee wasn’t hot enough. This generation wanted hot coffee with a lot of froth, and the typical cappuccino. Slowly, the coffee scene developed, to the point that in my town of 50,000 souls, I can count a coffee machine for every 1000 people – that’s an awful lot of machines,” Stefano says. Even when driving back from

Melbourne on occasion, Stefano notes the volume of small coffee carts off the side of the freeway in remote locations like the Mallee. “Obviously people can’t travel 550 kilometres from Melbourne to Mildura without a coffee,” he says. “I remember a conversation with the late [Australian poet] Les Murray who wanted to create a map of reliable coffee shops in Australia so that the traveller would know where to head for a reliable coffee. Well, you don’t need a map anymore, coffee shops are everywhere, even at McDonald’s.” When it comes to critiquing a “good coffee”, Stefano looks for balance, strength, creaminess, and no bitterness. His first coffee of the day is milk based, then he abandons milk for a long black, and finishes his coffee quota with a “gorgeous espresso” in the late morning. Stefano has made hundreds of coffees over the years, but the one thing that continues to disappoint him at his restaurant, Stefano’s Cantina, is the customer’s desire for a milk-based coffee after a five-course meal and several glasses of wine. “I’ll never understand it,” he says. “Coffee should be drunk according to the time of day it was intended.” Sefano never had the ambition to be

In the new TV series, Stefano explores the relationship between food and the environment.

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CELEBRITY CHEF a restauranteur. He wanted to sell wine, bread, cheese, and salami, but says in the early years in Mildura, the concept of a wine bar was difficult to implement. Instead, he opened Stefano’s Cantina in 1991 serving antipasto, then introduced hot food until his business became more of a restaurant. “We were among the first, if not the first, who did not offer a menu at our restaurant. We said to our guests, ‘just sit down and eat’. It was quite gutsy to say, and now the menu is more structured, but it used to be created at the whim of the chef – me,” he says. “But over 30 years, we have consolidated a style of sharing platters, which has now become a universal concept.” With 2020 forcing the closure of many dine-in facilities, Stefano took to opportunity to hit the roads and film new SBS Food series, Australia’s Food Bowl with Stefano de Pieri. On this trip, Stefano explores one of Australia’s most productive regions, the Murray-Darling around Mildura. “I found a great affinity with Mildura and its community. Although the river is a different colour, it reminds me of my river town back home in Treviso. I feel comfortable near the vicinity of water and the Murray is so fascinating to me,” Stefano says.

This new series was shot amid the folds of COVID-19 last year. Stefano says sadly a lot of content was lost in production due to lockdowns, state border closures, and social distancing. “To have completed the show at all is a proud accomplishment given the challenging circumstances,” he says. “The intention is to introduce people to my district and one of the food bowls of Australia. I don’t think Mildura has been as properly recognised as say Daylesford and other towns because it’s not close to the city, but it does have a lot to offer.” In the 10-part series, Stefano explores the connection between the food producer and the consumer, and the relationship between food and the environment it comes from. “We’re at the crossroads of significant issues like climate change and the decline of our water supply, which is critical to our wellbeing and food production,” he says. “Television is meant to entertain but there are also some truths to be told in this series.” Stefano is one of a handful of pioneers who have made food and wine more accessible to the country. He credits friend Nick Diamantopoulos for single-handedly replacing imported Chinese garlic in every Australian supermarket with home-grown bulbs, and producers like Maggie Beer who

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help professionalise extra virgin olive oil. Stefano is also proud of his efforts to lead the wine revolution. “When I get to the pearly gates and Saint Peter asks me what I achieved, I would probably say, ‘creating The Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show’. We have now got people drinking a huge variety of different wines because we started importing new varieties from Italy. I’m proud to say that 21 years later, in every bar and restaurant you’ll find a Nebbiolo or Sangiovese,” he says. A long way off visiting those gates, Stefano hopes his new show will inspire others and regional communities, to put themselves on the map. “If people can see that people like Maggie [Beer] and Alla [Wolf-Tasker] and others can start a food revolution, even a guy like me – a former politician and public servant – then they can too,” he says. “Hopefully, I’ve served my community. Now it’s up to other communities to raise their own bar and welcome visitors and tourists and continue to deliver a great Australian food evolution.”

Australia’s Food Bowl with Stefano de Pieri premiers on SBS Food from 27 May at 7:30pm. The series is available after broadcast on SBS On Demand.

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COVER STORY

Meta calling Lavazza is putting social, environmental and cultural attention on the Colombian coffee producing region of Meta, with a new blend that is helping to preserve and empower the future of coffee production.

electing the right blend is no easy task. It must be bold enough to hold a point of difference and cater to the majority of customer’s taste preferences. But most importantly, it needs to connect with the café’s ethos and beliefs. For the first time in 28 years, The Pantry in Melbourne’s affluent suburb of Brighton has changed its blend to Lavazza’s La Reserva de ¡Tierra! Colombia blend. Managing Director Guy Mainwaring says the process was a “monumental” task but one he was committed to. “Our customers trust that when we do something new, we jump in with both feet,” he says. “In launching the La Reserva de ¡Tierra! Colombia, we wanted to really showcase the story of the blend, its Colombian origins, and how it celebrates our city. We love what Lavazza do and thought this was a good way to show that.” Just as The Pantry is passionate about storytelling and creating unique moments for its guests, it saw a similar synergy in roasting partner Lavazza. Guy says he was “blown away” by the story of the

¡Tierra! Colombia project and its ethical and sustainable origins. So much so, Guy commissioned a Tierra Tree of life mural with local artist Georgia Harvey to mark the occasion. Developed in 2002 in collaboration with international non-profit organisation Rainforest Alliance (RFA), the Lavazza Foundation’s ¡Tierra! projects are the result of Lavazza’s commitment to sustainability, based on the three fundamental principles of product excellence, support and care for small communities, and respect for the planet. The project in Meta, Colombia, is one of the 24 projects supported by Lavazza’s charitable, non-profit organisation, the Lavazza Foundation. Established in 2004, it has a presence in 18 countries across three continents, with more than 97,000 beneficiaries. They include small coffee growers – specifically coffee farmers that own around one hectare of land and cultivate coffee that lacks quality. Through the ¡Tierra! Project, the Lavazza Foundation supports more than 100 farming families by helping restore plantations, improving coffee

quality and productivity, and creating sustainable working conditions in Meta where armed conflict has long constrained the cultivation of coffee.

A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE

For Silvio Zaccareo, Lavazza’s APAC Business Unit Director and Australia Managing Director, a sustainable coffee future is the only way forward. With climate change presenting a real threat to coffee producing regions and bean quality, La Reserva de ¡Tierra! Colombia is one way the Lavazza Foundation can help safeguard the future of coffee and the sustainability of the Colombian coffee economy by implementing training programs for coffee producers. “Our key areas of work include teaching agricultural techniques that allow producers to respond effectively to environmental damage, supporting reforestation, promoting the diversification of production, and introducing technical components to support coffee cultivation techniques,” says Silvio. The program underway in the Meta region has also been developed with

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COVER STORY

Guy Mainwaring is the Managing Director of The Pantry in Brighton.

Silvio Zaccareo is Lavazza’s APAC Business Unit Director and Australia Managing Director.

a special focus on promoting gender equality within families and communities, and women’s rights. Women make up 70 per cent of the workforce involved in coffee production across the Meta region, however only 20 per cent are involved in management. The program also promotes and enhances the work of young people through coffee entrepreneurship training. “Through these teachings, we are able to support farmers in the Meta region by empowering them with the tools they need to build sustainable agricultural practices,” Silvio says. “We have achieved this by teaching farmers the skills necessary to overcome and respond to the effects of environmental damage, as well as harnessing them with the tools needed to sustain the longevity of their plantations and quality of their product, through innovative agriculture practices.” One such beneficiary of the program is farmer Joanna, a young Colombian mother of six children. Joanna lost everything during the armed conflict with the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia —People’s Army guerrillas. She was determined to still live in her local

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community, which included the fertile land of the Meta coffee growing region in the foothills of the Andes. In 2013, the Colombian government gave farming families like Joanna’s the land previously used to grow illegal crops. Joanna now harvests coffee, with her laborious efforts recognised in Lavazza’s La Reserva de ¡Tierra! Colombia blend. Silvio says supporting this blend is one way Australian coffee lovers and café operators can have a broader impact on the sustainable future of coffee, and the livelihoods of coffee farmers like Joanna. “We believe it’s our responsibility as global citizens and have laid out an effective model of training, tools, and skills which enhance the lives and livelihoods of coffee farmers,” Silvio says. “I take real pride in knowing that the work we’re doing each day is delivering a positive impact to every hand that touches our business.” On a more local level, Lavazza

work in Meta is centred around enhancing the work of younger generations through training programs that motivate them to thrive in the coffee industry.”

GLOBAL RELATIONSHIPS, LOCAL REACH

Lavazza has always bought its coffee directly from growers and local coffee traders on the basis of specific selection criteria developed by its coffee experts. Only the best coffee beans in Meta make their way to the bags of La Reserva de ¡Tierra! Colombia, after being carefully roasted. Temperature, altitude, solar radiation and availability of water make Meta one of the most outstanding coffee origins in the world. The fertile soil in the coffee regions of Colombia enables farmers to grow rich, high-quality coffee. The result of these idyllic conditions is coffee with a bright, full-bodied, and intense flavour profile.

“WE BELIEVE IT’S OUR RESPONSIBILITY AS GLOBAL CITIZENS AND HAVE LAID OUT AN EFFECTIVE MODEL OF TRAINING, TOOLS, AND SKILLS WHICH ENHANCE THE LIVES AND LIVELIHOODS OF COFFEE FARMERS.” Australia has received recognition from Work180 as an “endorsed employer for women”. Silvio says this is an achievement to be proud of, and reflects Lavazza Australia’s commitment to diversity, inclusion and equality in the workforce. “We continue to focus on achieving more in this area of equality and ensuring we represent all aspects of the community in our workforce,” Silvio says. He also hopes the company can be an example to other roasters and actively works to ensure its supply chains are sustainable and aptly supported, especially with increasing threats of climate change, natural disasters, and young workers abandoning plantations. Silvio says these are “the greatest challenges and threats to the global coffee producing industry”. “As the climate continues to change across the globe, this will undoubtedly have an adverse impact on coffee production. With climate change comes an increase in natural disasters – known to completely destroy farms and negatively impact plantations and their local economies,” he says. “Another threat is the increase in younger generation coffee farmers abandoning production lands. Part of our

Lavazza roasts a range of blends both internationally and locally, depending on the blend profile, internal supply chain, customer needs, and positioning of the product. In this instance, Lavazza deemed it appropriate to roast La Reserva de ¡Tierra! Colombia in Melbourne. “We intentionally embrace the significance of being locally roasted in Melbourne. Our story is based around being local and being a part of the community for 28 years. It just makes sense to offer a locally roasted blend that is also ethical and sustainable,” says Guy. The Pantry began its relationship with Lavazza in 1993 when it first opened its doors in Brighton. Nearly 30 years later, the café and Italian roaster share a special bond that is deeply rooted in mutual commitment to delivering special coffee moments that celebrate Melbourne culture. “Lavazza produces an amazingly consistent, high-quality product, and because of this, our guests know they are going to enjoy an exceptional coffee experience every single time,” Guy says. “Melburnians are also known to spice-up their coffee of choice, and over the years our customers have enjoyed the

many varieties of coffee we have on offer – from espressos and longblacks to iced lattes. The Lavazza coffee base delivers a smooth flavour they have grown to love.”

NEW APPROACH TO SUSTAINABLE COFFEE

Guy is aware of his responsibility to present a sustainable coffee offering to his consumers. After the past 12 months and seeing the challenges brought about by the global pandemic, Guy says he’s seen an increased sustainable consciousness from his customers, and it’s taught him to look out for others in a better way. “It’s important to embrace fellow members of our local, national, and international communities by being aware of the ethical and sustainable nature of what we consume,” he says. “As the coffee capital of the world, we need to lead the way in supporting all aspects of responsibly sourced, ethical, and sustainable produce. By offering La Reserva de ¡Tierra! Colombia at The Pantry, we’re actively supporting the sustainable future of coffee without compromising on flavour and quality.” Silvio says as more cafés demand sustainable origins for their suppliers’ coffee beans, they will in turn encourage more roasters to be mindful of their own supply chains. “It’s fantastic to see The Pantry collaborate with Lavazza on this important project. They are a valued partner of Lavazza. Their support has been instrumental in bringing the La Reserva de ¡Tierra! story to life, and we hope it will inspire other Australian cafés to investigate their own coffee bean origins,” he says. “Not only is it the right thing to do, but we’re seeing a continuous emergence of the coffee-conscious consumer, who expect more from their daily brew. “Coffee-conscious consumers are passionate about the origin of their coffee and whether the supply chain it travels through is sustainable. Australian cafés must reflect this passion in their service offering in order to meet this growing demand.”

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INDUSTRY PROFILE

Precious cargo Barista Technology Australia is lowering the entry bar to café ownership with an end-to-end shipping container café solution.

afé ownership is a tough business to get into. It takes time and research to find the right location, huge upfront costs for fit outs and installation, and experience to run the business. After all that, it’s even more difficult to make it successful. The café could be in the wrong location or have limited foot traffic, high rent and overhead costs, or it could be struggling to attract the attention of customers. Brett Bolwell, CEO of Barista Technology Australia, has enjoyed decades of experience in the coffee industry, however, he’s also watched the prohibitive costs of starting a new café put off many baristas looking to branch out on their own. “Café operators get into the industry, take what looks like a great location, then six to eight months later aren’t making the money they thought they would and are stuck on a three-to-four-year lease,” Brett says. “If you can reduce setup and investments, remove a large portion of the operating costs, and operate the business more efficiently with the right technology, you’ve got all the right factors for a successful business.”

The coffee van or mobile coffee cart used to serve as a good stepping stone towards traditional café ownership, but even that model comes with drawbacks when it comes to capacity and workflow. Brett says instead, shipping container cafés are becoming a more viable, cheaper, and scalable option. “The shipping container café is a fully enclosed solution. They don’t have to be moved around like you would a coffee cart, where you also rely on good weather, can’t have people drive up to you, and don’t have the ability to cook inside,” he says. “A shipping container café is really a kitchen and coffee bar built in the one.” Barista Technology Australia offers a complete shipping container café solution, from supplying and customising the container itself to designing and fitting out the latest café equipment with a premium workflow. Brett says there’s been an upsurge in enquiries into shipping container cafés of the last few years, receiving about 30 per day across Barista Technology and its container manufacturing partner in Newcastle. “With a shipping container pop-up, you’re generally looking at about a third of the cost of opening up a traditional café

in a retail environment,” he says. “Considering the investment in buying one and financing a fully fitted out unit, even with the site rental fees, you’re talking about $1000 per week, and you actually own the container ship café. Most traditional café owners are paying well over that just for their rental space.” Even from a design point of view, not only do container ship cafés have a trendy, cool look and feel to them, they can be formatted and customised to the needs of the business. “The scope of design is pretty endless,” Brett says. Barista Technology has designed some shipping container cafés with external cladding, wood, aluminium, and lighting or signage. Others have rooftop access for additional dining, or multiple customer windows so they can deliver coffee from both sides. “We are delighted with the design and feel of our timber facade container café. It is exactly what I envisaged,” says Dave Triggermann. If coffee is going to be the sole focus of someone’s business, Brett will recommend a cosy 10-by-10-foot (about three-by-three-metre) espresso cube where they can pump out coffee fast with no wasted space.

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INDUSTRY PROFILE Shipping container cafés are a low-cost and flexible way for someone to step into café ownership.

“The container café we received has really worked for our business. We love serving our customers fresh coffee from our new popup café,” says Bronwyn Seal, who recently purchased her shipping container café from Barista Technology. If they want wider food service or a unique drive-thru setup, two shipping containers can be paired together for more space and a better configuration. As a business grows and wants to expand its offering, a second shipping container can seamlessly be incorporated to make that happen. “The team here are really pleased with our new container café. On the whole, the experience of purchasing the container café was excellent,” says Jarrod Clarke. The idea of a shipping container café is also catching on with landlords, who see the benefit of placing a small but visible coffee shop in the entryway, carpark, or centre of their business to attract more customers with barista-made coffee. “There’s a number of different places where a shipping container café is ideal. People have them down by the ocean, inside parks, along the highway, and in large commercial carparks. But the most popular settings have been in industrial areas and commercial sectors,” Brett says. “Most commercial businesses with strong traffic flow in high volume areas will see the value of having a pop-up café onsite. Whether they’re selling sportwear, electronics, or anything in between, what better way to bring people in with than an operator outside making amazing barista coffee and café food?” In order to provide an end-to-end solution, Barista Technology Australia is working with real estate companies to identify locations where its customers can place their prospective shipping container cafés. It will also work with individual customers to determine the

THE IDEA OF A SHIPPING CONTAINER CAFÉ IS ALSO CATCHING ON WITH LANDLORDS, WHO SEE THE BENEFIT OF PLACING A SMALL BUT VISIBLE COFFEE SHOP IN THE ENTRYWAY, CARPARK, OR CENTRE OF THEIR BUSINESS TO ATTRACT MORE CUSTOMERS WITH BARISTA-MADE COFFEE. best equipment and layout based on their budget and ambition. “Operators will buy a 20-foot container then not know how to set it up for ideal workflow or make best use of the space. We’ll sit down with them and talk about how to accomplish what they want to achieve,” Brett says. “It’s going to come down to what the individual operator has in mind, but we envision it with everything working around speed and efficiency. You’re in a confided space that can only comfortably fit in so many people. If you’re pumping out 600 to 800 coffees per day, it’s not going to be very efficient if you don’t use the right equipment or workflow.”

Shipping containers can be customised in a number of ways, including rooftop seating access.

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Brett suggests the use of an undercounter espresso machine like the Modbar or Tech-Bar to maximise bench space and automatic accessories like the Puqpress tamper, Perfect Moose milk steamer, and grind-by-weight grinders for peak speed and consistency. While the shipping container café serves as a great starting point for independent operators, Brett says there’s also been demand from larger chains. They appreciate the portability of the shipping container, and can instal them outside at locations under renovation or during the construction of new sites. But it’s not just the business that benefits from the shipping container café model. Brett says it responds to a growing demand from consumers for speed and availability. “If you look at where the volume of coffee is going – take McDonald’s and McCafé for example – it’s out the drivethru window,” he says. “Australia has been very lucky when it comes to COVID-19, but we’re not out of the woods yet. People are less excited about the idea of practically sitting on top of each other in a packed café so the need for real estate where people drive in, get out of car, walk inside, and dine in is dropping considerably. “That’s the way the industry is heading, and it’s the ones that can offer speed and consistency that will succeed.” For more information, visit www.baristatechnology.com.au

INDUSTRY PROFILE

Coffee for everyone Australian Brewers Cup Champion Carlos Escobar of Toby’s Estate Coffee Roasters discusses falling back in love with coffee and making specialty coffee more inclusive.

or someone who grew up on a coffee farm in Colombia and is now part of the leadership team of one of Australia’s most prominent specialty coffee roasters, one could assume they always intended to work in the industry. But for Carlos Escobar, National Sales Manager at Toby’s Estate Coffee Roasters, that wasn’t necessarily the case. “My family owned coffee plantations, but with problems like climate change and low prices, coffee stopped being viable for high-volume producers. You could make a livelihood but it wasn’t a business you could progress and succeed with at scale,” Carlos tells BeanScene. “For that reason, I grew up thinking I had to do anything else but coffee. My father even told me, ‘don’t work in coffee. It’s not a sustainable product, there’s no future in it.’ That’s why I went to university and got an engineering degree.” However, working as an industrial engineer in Colombia left Carlos feeling unfulfilled. Realising he would need to speak English to find engineering work in other countries, and wanting an excuse for a break, Carlos took flight to Australia to learn the language. “Life is funny. I left for Australia trying to do something different with my life and once I was here, I ended up falling in love with coffee again,” he says. Carlos’ first job in Australia was as a waiter in an Italian restaurant, where he watched the baristas and saw how different it was working behind a coffee machine to what he was used to. “I didn’t know anything about espresso extraction. It’s not common in Colombia, where everyone drinks filter,” Carlos says. “I asked the manager if I could work behind the machine and he taught me what he knew. But when you fall in love with coffee, from the moment you start learning, it’s never enough. It’s a rabbit hole that doesn’t end, and I’m still learning every single day.” From there, Carlos started exploring the variables of changing flavours, how coffee is roasted, where coffees come

Carlos Escobar is the National Sales Manager of Toby’s Estate Coffee Roasters and 2020 Australian Sttoke Brewers Cup Champion.

from, and the role of customer service. “My interest and passion was not just in the product anymore but finding the area where I could most add value to the industry. For me, that was in service, contributing to how people experience coffee,” he says. “There’s more to it than how good the coffee is itself. It’s how well it’s served, sold, explained, and educated. My focus now at Toby’s Estate is how we can get people to fall in love with coffee and understand the value of what we do. As Carlos delved deeper into the coffee industry, he says it was impossible to not take note of the work being done at Toby’s Estate, even while working for a number of other notable coffee companies. When an opportunity came up to join the team in late-2020, he says connecting with General Manager Jody Leslie over shared values and vision convinced him to make the jump. “The approach of a lot of companies is that, if someone isn’t already

Watermelon Cake is the second entry in Toby’s Estate’s Flavour Savour series.

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INDUSTRY PROFILE

knowledgeable about specialty coffee, they aren’t the customer for them. I feel differently. I want to be inclusive and invite more people into that world and Toby’s Estate has a similar view,” Carlos says. Since Carlos joined Toby’s Estate, the roaster has launched two new product series designed to make specialty coffee more accessible to the end consumer: Freezus and Flavour Savour. Through Freezus, Toby’s Estate prepares, ages, and vacuum seals coffee before delivering it to the customer, who can freeze it themselves and start building their own coffee cellar. “Freezing coffee is something the high-end specialty coffee professionals have been doing for a few years now, but it’s still a very unknown concept for the regular coffee consumer. Our challenge with Freezus was to make these products, trends, and knowledge more accessible for everyone,” Carlos says. “We do all the hard work for the end consumer, so when they get the coffee, not only in the café but people at home, they can freeze it to enjoy later.” Butterscotch Pudding was Toby’s Estate’s first foray into the Flavour Savour series, crafting milk-based coffee blends with unique and distinctive flavours that customers can relate to experiences they’re familiar with. Carlos says the Christmas-themed blend

Through Freezus, Toby’s Estate is making frozen coffee accessible to the home consumer.

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quickly sold out at the end of 2020, and the second Flavour Savour blend, Watermelon Cake, saw similar demand when released in April. “The flavour focused blends are about exciting the market. Whether you’re a high-end barista or coffee professional, or an office worker going for your midmorning coffee run, the Watermelon Cake flavour profile is a fun experience and super easy to understand,” he says. “People are starting to acknowledge you can find different flavours in coffee when black, but they’re still used to the typical chocolate and caramel notes in their flat whites and lattes. When they see it’s possible to create these distinctive flavours in a blend, it starts interesting conversations about what gives the coffee those flavours. That opens the door for our team or the barista to talk about single origins, Freezus, different roasting styles and processing methods, or direct trade and our work and relationships with farmers.” But Freezus and Flavour Savour weren’t the sole idea of Carlos or any one Toby’s Estate team member for that matter. Carlos joined an elite leadership team of coffee professionals at Toby’s Estate, including Nich Rae as Head of Coffee, Charlotte Malaval as Green Bean Buyer, and Simon Gautherin as Head of Training. He says the skill and

experience across the team allows them to easily collaborate, help each other, and become more than the sum or their parts. “Beyond the professional expertise, Toby’s Estate wants to build a good culture or team and is very inclusive. We value each other’s differences and see how they contribute, rather than view them as roadblocks,” Carlos says. “The results speak for themselves when you work as a team, help each other, and let each person do what they do best.” This was made obvious when the team at Toby’s Estate supported Carlos’ campaign in the 2020 Australian Brewers Cup, where he was crowned champion in March 2021. Carlos says he couldn’t have done it without Jody’s and Charlotte’s support, Nich’s roasting of the competition coffee, and Simon’s coaching and constant encouragement. Though the win ultimately comes down to Carlos and his deep knowledge and passion for coffee. “My main purpose for competing was to inspire other baristas, especially the immigrants who came to this country and really want to work in the coffee industry. They learn about coffee and fall in love with specialty, but when it comes to competing, they get intimidated by the guys who’ve competed for a long time and always win,” Carlos says. “I respected, followed, and admired all of my competitors, but they’re not the only ones who can do what they do, and I’m glad my win shows you don’t need to be the most experienced or speak perfect English to win.” Through Toby’s Estate, Carlos hopes to send people a similar message, that specialty coffee is at its best when it’s not exclusive. “We are not the new kid on the block or the little guy in your mum’s garage anymore. We respect those companies and what they do, but that’s not us, we don’t want to be like anyone else. We want to have our own identity and show the market you can be innovative and supportive, while also being a wellestablished beast,” Carlos says. “Specialty coffee makes up at most 10 per cent of the wider coffee market. Rather than fighting with other companies to grow our share of that 10 per cent, Toby’s Estate is committed to growing the overall size of the specialty market by educating more consumers. If more people move from mainstream to specialty coffee, it creates space for all of us to shine.” For more information, visit www.tobysestate.com.au

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Oat of the Lab Australian milk for coffee brand Milklab has announced the long-awaited launch of its latest plant-based product, Milklab Oat.

Milklab Oat milk will officially launch in the second half of June 2021.

ne of Milklab’s many defining features is the breadth and variety of its range, from dairy and lactose-free milks to the popular almond and soy and even offbeat options like coconut and macadamia. However, one plant-based milk was notably absent from the Milklab range, until now. Milklab Oat milk will officially launch in the second half of June 2021, completing the Australian brand’s plant-based portfolio. “Milklab’s advantage as a brand is the extent of our range. We’re unique with how we provide dairy and lactose-free milks alongside dairy alternatives so can cater to a café’s full milk requirements. We see the ‘holy trinity’ of plant-based milks being almond, soy, and oat, and without oat there was a gap in our portfolio we’ve worked on filling for a while,” says Natalie Latimore, Milklab Marketing Manager. “Milklab Oat has been years in the making. We’ve come close to releasing it in the past and it’s taken a lot of courage to say ‘no’. It would’ve been a lot easier to launch a product 80 per cent ready a year ago and have that competitive

advantage of being one of the first to market, but as a team we agreed it was critical this product was superior to the other oat milks on market.” Natalie adds it was important that Milklab release a product of a quality that the coffee industry has come to expect from its other products. “We have an amazing product in Milklab Almond, which is the number one almond milk in the foodservice channel, with year on year growth in the channel. Our almond milk has such a good reputation and loyal following, we want to ensure each and every product we release is of equal quality – with both performance and taste,” Natalie says. “Oat milk is currently a small segment of the plant-based milk market but it’s also the fastest growing and is looking likely to be the next ‘big thing’ in plantbased beverages. Milklab has set the standard for dairy alternatives, so we’ve ensured not to cut corners undertaking numerous trials and formulation tweaks to make sure we launch a product we’re confident can rival the best.” The Milklab brand is built on collaboration and the brand has continued this approach with the industry, engaging with baristas, café owners, coffee roasters, and distributors for feedback in every round of product development to ensure the milks meet their needs. “We work closely with our R&D team to develop a formulation we’re happy with then run a production following the standard manufacturing and packaging procedures we would follow for the final product. The sales and marketing team then hit the road and take the new recipe to dozens of cafés to talk to baristas and ask them to test the product and give us their honest feedback,” Natalie says. “We ask them how they feel about working with the product, which is a really important part of the process. It’s not just about how the product tastes, it’s about how well it heats up, what temperature is required to get the best out of it, the texturing and stretching of the milk, and the latte art performance quality. Then it’s about how it compares

to other dairy, dairy alternatives and oat milks on the market. We combine all feedback and share it with the R&D team to make the tweaks to further improve the product, which is quite a long but worthwhile process.” Three Pence Coffee Roasters in New South Wales is one of the many coffee businesses Milklab has partnered with since its inception, including in the development of Milklab Oat. “Three Pence Roasters have been working closely with the team at Milklab over the past five-plus years and have enjoyed seeing the brand grow and fill that demand in the market for premium plant-based milks. We are excited to see

Milklab Oat milk’s dark grey colouring contrasts with the rest of the Milklab range.

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Mark and Anthony of Three Pence Coffee Roasters collaborating with Milklab on the development of Milklab Oat.

Milklab Oat launch this year, Milklab’s newest edition to their range,” says Mark Gentle, Director of Three Pence Coffee Roasters. “Having seen the development of this product from start to finish and the way it has changed over this time is amazing. Milklab Oat pairs exceptionally well with both light and dark coffee roasts and doesn’t overpower the coffee notes, allowing the unique flavour of each blend to shine through.” One of the reasons Mark says oat milk is becoming more popular with consumers is because of its more neutral taste and closer profile to dairy, making it better at replicating the creamy mouthfeel people look for in a milk coffee. “Anthony [Preston, co-founder of Three Pence Coffee Roasters] and I are looking forward to working alongside the team with the launch of Milklab Oat and continuing our collaboration with the brand to ensure that Milklab maintains their place as market leader when it comes to premium plant-based milks,” Mark says. Placing the Milklab range side-by-side creates a veritable rainbow of dairy and dairy alternatives. As well as looking good on a coffee bar, Natalie says the design choice serves a practical purpose. “The colours we choose for each plant-based milk is to help baristas with speed of service. They can quickly spot and pick up the right carton and matching milk jug, so they don’t mix up or cross contaminate milks,” Natalie says. “We’ve used green, blues, purples, yellow, and of course, orange for almond, so it’s coming to the point we’re almost running out of colours. For Milklab Oat,

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we went with a contrasting grey, to stand out as something unique, contemporary, and a clear point of difference.” Another distinguishing feature of Milklab Oat is that, while oat milk is known for its neutral taste, Natalie says it embraces the inherent qualities of oat to improve the overall coffee experience. “Some of the feedback from our testing was that our oat milk had more of a natural sweetness to it than other products on the market, and that this

complemented the espresso rather than taking away from it,” she says. “Results from consumer sensory research conducted by an independent agency showcased Milklab Oat outperforming the market leader, really cementing that we had an amazing product. That, combined with positive feedback from trade validation, gave us the confidence to launch.” Not only is Milklab designed in and for the Australia market, the brand was born here and sources its ingredients locally wherever it can, including for Milklab Oat. Natalie says that local focus has been brought to the forefront over the last year. “As the impact of COVID-19 has settled down and lockdowns have relaxed, we’ve seen month-on-month growth, so the plant-based milk market is not slowing down. We’re even seeing the customer base grow, as dairy drinkers switch to plant-based milks or add them to their repertoire as part of a ‘flexitarian’ based diet,” Natalie says. “One of our philosophies is to never rest on our laurels. We’re continually reviewing all the products in our range in addition to looking towards future additions. That’s how we ensure our products are the best they can be and cater to needs and wants of both baristas and our consumers.” For more information, visit www.milklabco.com

Daniel Valenz, Owner of Dan’s Café in Caringbah, taking part in barista validation of Milklab Oat at the first Milklab Barista Social Club.

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Veneziano Coffee Roasters is exploring ways of getting coffee directly into the hands of consumers.

Home is where the heart is

Veneziano Coffee Roasters on adapting to consumer trends, the rise of coffee subscriptions and what it means for the café experience.

OVID-19 has resulted in many changes to our daily lives over the past year. One example is how and when people buy and drink coffee. Many people are still working from home and have had to find alternatives to their morning café run or office coffee machine. “If the first thing you do in your day is have your daily cup, you don’t want to compromise on that daily ritual. It’s something that’s important to you and keeps you going through the day, so you want it to taste good and you want it to be right,” says Ben Romeril, Chief Operating Officer of Veneziano Coffee Roasters. This routine gave many consumers a greater appreciation of café-quality coffee and made the specialty coffee industry take notice of the at-home market. “Over the years, we’ve seen waves

of change ripple through the café scene. As an industry we’ve been excited by the introduction of single origins, micro lots, filter coffee, and cold brew; unique fit outs and amazing café designs; and the incredible food quality coming from cafés as the whole breakfast brunch scene exploded in Australia,” Ben says. “We haven’t seen as many big changes in the home scene. Years ago, it was all about instant coffee, then it turned to pods or capsules. The single-serve market is still popular and growing, but that’s been it for the most part. There hasn’t been the same quality drive at home as there has been in cafés.” COVID-19 changed that. As such, coffee machine manufacturers or suppliers and coffee roasters – Veneziano included – have seen huge spikes and uptakes in retail coffee orders. Ben attributes this growth to people’s desire to recreate the café experience at home.

“We’ve seen around a 200 per cent growth in online sales. We saw a huge increase at the start of 2020 and, while it has settled down somewhat, it’s still quite high,” he says. “The average consumer has come to expect quality through their visits to the café. Now they’re coming to understand they don’t need to compromise on quality at home either.” Seeing a new and growing demand for quality coffee at home, Veneziano introduced a coffee subscription service to guarantee consumers a steady stream of fresh specialty coffee at home. “Coffee has always been a habitual purchase, something that’s largely done as part of your weekly supermarket shop. As people broaden their coffee horizons, they’re still seeking something that is convenient and part of their every day. A subscription makes it so much easier for them,” Ben says.

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“It’s a ‘set and forget’, so you know your coffee is going to turn up and, more importantly, you know it’s going to be fresh. The freshness of a product on the supermarket shelf can vary, whereas if you’re buying direct from a coffee roaster you know you’re getting a fresh product and that’s key to getting a quality cup.” Veneziano offers 12-month subscriptions for each of its six blends, and one to its micro lots, providing subscribers with coffee and access to training and educational material and classes. “Subscriptions have become pretty widely accepted among all sorts of categories. When you think about how many subscriptions you have to online viewing platforms, like Disney+ or Netflix, or places like gyms, it opens people to the idea of subscriptions to coffee,” Ben says. But coffee needs a machine to go with it. Veneziano has been a long-term partner of espresso machine manufacturer La Marzocco in the café space and has carried that relationship into the retail market, offering 12-month subscription bundles with the La Marzocco Linea Mini. “Coffee starts with the machine and we’re partnering with a number of manufacturers, such as De’Longhi and Rancilio, to keep exploring that and starting that conversation,” Ben says. “When a customer goes home with a new machine, we want them to have great coffee to go with it. Having that access to specialty coffee right from the get go is how we will lift consumer understanding and appreciation of quality coffee.” Across April and May, Veneziano also ran a Mother’s Day promotion with Breville, providing a special gift pack alongside the purchase of select Breville espresso machines from participating retailers. This gift pack included a trial subscription to the Veneziano Crave blend, barista tools and accessories, and access to an online training class with Veneziano. Ben says training and education is another aspect of coffee reimagined in the wake of COVID-19. “Breville reaches about one in three households, so it’s a great opportunity to give consumers a café experience at home. To ensure that’s what they do get, we’re training hundreds of coffee enthusiasts with online classes,” he says. “These sessions used to be physical one-on-one experiences, now with things like Zoom, we can offer a range from personalised masterclasses to larger classes of up to 50 budding baristas. If we keep growing at this rate, we might soon have hundreds in an online classroom.” Veneziano Training Manager Erin Sampson runs the classes, and Ben

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Veneziano is offering 12-month subscription bundles alongside the purchase of a La Marzocco Linea Mini.

says the former Australian Latte Art Champion is talented at breaking down the fundamentals of making coffee, while having a bit of fun as well. “We spend a lot of time training baristas in the café space and it’s no different training baristas at home. We’ve found that people are excited to learn more about the craft of making coffee. Not only do they find it educational, they actually really enjoy it too,” he says. “We’re also looking at how we can build greater engagement with consumers, from video support material to more opportunities to attend masterclasses, and teach them more about where coffee comes from, the finer details of specialty coffee, and getting their friends and family involved.” While Veneziano is increasing its

Veneziano Training Manager Erin Sampson leads the roaster’s booming online classes.

focus on the home market in 2021, Ben stresses it in no way deducts its attention from its wholesale business and the many cafés around Australia proudly serving Veneziano coffee. “As a coffee roaster, we’ve historically focussed on working with and being a strong partner to specialty cafés. So, the exciting part of these home initiatives is that they will help support our café partners as well, through brand awareness and educating consumers on the quality they can expect from a Veneziano partner café,” Ben says. “In the long term, I think these changes to the home market are going to help elevate the café industry. If we can get people drinking quality coffee at home, they’ll build an appreciation for good coffee and be willing to pay more at the café. They’ll also have higher expectations of the industry, which pushes all of us to work harder at producing a better experience.” With many other coffee roasters also embracing a subscription model for their at-home customers, Ben is excited for more people to delve into the world of coffee making. “Coffee tends to be a bit behind the wine industry, where there’s always been wine clubs and people happy to get subscriptions,” Ben says. “This is new ground for coffee roasters, and we need to explore how to speak with consumers directly and get them involved in the art of making coffee.” For more information, visit www.venezianocoffee.com.au

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Soy far soy good The Alternative Dairy Co has reformulated its Barista Soy Milk recipe, ensuring the classic dairy alternative can match the quality of its almond and oat.

he plant-based barista milk market has exploded in recent years, with more consumers looking for alternatives to traditional dairy and a wider variety of options available. For The Alternative Dairy Co, a relative newcomer to the plant-based milk market, it was important not to focus solely on almond milk, the most popular dairy alternative, and oat milk, the fastest growing. Café Business Manager Rachel Glasbergen says it was crucial to offer the “original” plant-based milk for baristas – soy milk – at just as high a quality level as almond and oat. “I believe oat milk will become the number one dairy alternative at some stage, sooner rather than later, but almond and soy milk will still have their place,” Rachel says. “The beauty of having all three in the range is that they suit different tastes and health requirements. Many people who are looking to switch up dairy for an alternative don’t want to sacrifice taste or performance. Our range provides an uncompromised choice, whether it comes down to personal preference or unique dietary requirements.” Following the successful reformulation of its almond milk recipe in 2020, The Alternative Dairy Co was encouraged to do the same with its soy milk. Rachel says The Alternative Dairy Co is committed to keep evolving its products to meet the needs of baristas. “We’re constantly taking on feedback from the industry and looking at how we can improve. With the popularity of our oat milk, launched in 2019, we

redeveloped our almond milk formula to provide a similar more neutral flavour and creamy mouthfeel. We then realised we could make some improvements to the soy milk along the same lines,” she says. “We don’t have this idea of perfection and that mindset gives us the drive to continue to improve our products.” The new Alternative Dairy Co Barista Soy Milk recipe was rolled out in April 2021. Rachel says it received a glowing reception from the café community. “We’re very proud of our products and when we’re able to improve them and send them out to market with such a positive response, it’s a justification for all the hard work that went into it,” she elaborates. “Ultimately, when we are talking about soy milk taste, quality, and performance, it always relates directly to the quality of the soy protein.”

That’s why The Alternative Dairy Co Barista Soy Milk is made with a more functional high-quality soy protein, providing superior latte art capability and stability. Tinkering with the mineral content also improved the soy milk’s buffer system to withstand splitting and the protein-to-fat ratio was refined to improve performance and stretchability. “These changes are all responsible to the superior latte art capability/stability and also the neutral taste,” Rachel says. “One of our key scientists who worked on the Barista Soy Milk hates the flavour of soy milk, so he challenged himself to go out and create a soy milk he would like and drink himself. That’s what he did, and that mindset has led to a fantastic product.” In September 2020, The Alternative Dairy Co plant milks launched across Soul Origin stores nationwide, beginning with its oat and almond, and soy joining them in early 2021. However, a few Soul Origin franchisees were early adopters of the soy milk, including Gabriel Ruiz Diaz in Blackrock, New South Wales. “We trialled the three milks for a short period and people responded pretty well to them, so it was an easy switch for us,” Gabriel says. “We’ve been using it in the shop for a while now, have had no issues, and found the plant milks to taste great and be easy to work with.” Since rolling out the new soy milk recipe, Gabriel says he’s heard the best customer feedback possible: none at all. “We’ve tried other new products before, not just plant milks but across the café, and people let you know quickly if it’s not right. That has never

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“PROMOTING THAT THE ALTERNATIVE DAIRY CO HAS A NEW RECIPE IS GOING TO HELP ENCOURAGE THEM TO BREAK OUT OF THEIR OLD HABITS AND TRY SOMETHING NEW.” happened with The Alternative Dairy Co,” Gabriel says. “When people don’t like something, they will complain and complain loudly, and so they should. Unless they’re polled or directly asked, they won’t tell you how good the product is, so you know it’s working when you don’t hear anything from the customer.” Jimmy Yohannes of Soul Origin in Randwick, New South Wales, also rolled out the soy milk alongside the oat and almond last year. He tells BeanScene it has been interesting to see how demand had shifted with the introduction of oat milk to the menu. “After we rolled out The Alternative Dairy Co Oat Milk, people took a liking to it and slowly moved over from other milks,” Jimmy says. “People have also really liked the almond milk and tell us they prefer it to other brands they’ve tried.” Despite the growth of oat milk, Jimmy’s Soul Origin store still serves multiple soy milk coffees each day and he’s excited to promote the new and improved recipe. “Our previous soy milk had been in the market for a long time and developed a bit of a strong following. Promoting that The Alternative Dairy Co has a new recipe is going to help encourage them to break out of their old habits and try something new,” he says. Quality aside, both Gabriel and Jimmy say that supporting an Australian owned, made, and sourced brand like The Alternative Dairy Co was a large factor in why they embraced the soy milk early. “Especially with the pandemic over the last year, we really try to source locally made and owned brands instead of

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The Alternative Dairy Co released its reformulated Barista Soy Milk in April.

bringing products from overseas,” Jimmy says. “It was great to be able to share that message with our customers.” According to the Good Food Lounge – Covid-19 Themes, October 2020 report form Sanitarium and Woolworths, Australian consumer interest in locally made products is gaining momentum. In fact, it was the second fastest growing trend, only behind health as a priority. Though this data is based on grocery sales data, Rachel says this related directly to the café market, where The Alternative Dairy Co encapsulates these two values. “Why bring in products from overseas when we make great ones here?” Rachel asks. “Being locally produced ensures we can be agile in responding to changes in demand, it’s better for the environment than shipping from the other side of the world, and it all supports the local economy.” According to more grocery scan data from Sanitarium, soy milks contribute to just over a third of the dairy-free milk market, with 35.6 per cent of sales and

36.8 per cent of volume. Further data suggests soy-based options are the product of choice for newcomers to the market. “Dairy free growth has been driven by not only new users coming into the category, but also by more people adding dairy-free to their repertoire,” Rachel says. In the café space, this could mean people switching out dairy for a plantbased milk in one or more of their daily beverages. This trend, where dairy and plant-based milks are more often directly compared, is pushing dairy alternatives to ensure they hold up in quality to cow’s milk. “Australia is the world leader in café culture and quality, and developing better milk alternatives for baristas will keep us at that forefront,” Rachel says. “We’re really proud of the new soy milk reformulation. For us, there’s always a continual test and improve process for all of our plant-based milks.” For more information, visit www.altdairyco.com/barista

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Terry Shelley of Nowek Farms is Wolff Coffee Roasters’ most recent Farmer in Residency.

Creating coffee connections

Wolff Coffee Roasters has revitalised its Farmer in Residency program thanks to a visit from long-term producing partner Terry Shelley of Nowek Farms in Papua New Guinea.

lot of the time, the sharing of information between coffee roasters and producers goes in one direction. To balance the scales, for the last 10 or so years Wolff Coffee Roasters has organised programs to ensure its farmers learn as much from Wolff as it does from them. “We were going to origin, travelling to visit the farms, and spending time with producers and their families. Then we’d come back and share photos and experiences with teammates and our customers,” says Master Roaster Peter Wolff. “It got Penny [Wolff, co-founder of Wolff Coffee Roasters] and I thinking, ‘wouldn’t it be more powerful bringing the producer to us?’” The thought inspired the Farmer in Residency program, which pre-

COVID-19 saw Wolff Coffee Roasters bring two coffee producers per year to Australia. During their stay, the producer could see how their coffee reaches the end consumer, learn more about the roasting industry, and engage with the local community through their Creating Coffee Connections talks. “It provides the producer with a platform to speak to a wider coffee audience of not just Wolff customers, but other people interested in the coffee industry, from baristas and enthusiasts to other roasters and coffee traders. It’s an opportunity for them to share their own story and history of coffee, and initiatives and philanthropic work we do with them, which is really quite powerful,” Peter says. “We also view the residency as a way they can gain and attain knowledge from us. It could be simple things like bookkeeping or business administration,

insight into the Australian market, or it could be building their knowledge around sample roasting. One producer wanted to learn to roast coffee so he could supply local market, so we spent time showing him how and developing those skills.” Many celebrated producers have been featured as the Wolff Coffee Roasters Farmer in Residency, including Aida Batlle of El Salvador, Rachel Peterson of Panama, Luiz Rodrigues of Brazil, and Boyce Harries of Kenya. With COVID-19 putting a stop to international travel and in-person events last year, Wolff Coffee Roasters had to put Farmer in Residency and Creating Coffee Connections on hold. With the pandemic mostly under control in Australia, the Wolff pack were keen to do something that reunited the Queensland coffee community. Almost by pure chance, the next Farmer in Residency

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turned up on their doorstep. “We were fortunate to have Terry Shelley of Nowek Coffee, one of our producing partners in Papua New Guinea, drop by to say ‘hi’. He got stuck here in Queensland when COVID hit and hasn’t gone back yet, so we thought we’d use that opportunity to have Terry showcase the work we’ve done with Nowek Farms over the last seven years,” Peter says. Terry first came across Wolff Coffee Roasters during another trip to Australia, attending a coffee cupping at the roastery. He discussed with the team how he could improve his own farm’s coffee, which formed the basis of a strong partnership. “We have an open and informationsharing relationship, which is something we’d never really had in the past as a producer. They roast coffees from all over the world and are interested in the qualities of that coffee, so being able to chat with them means we can see what we can adapt and use in our own mill,” Terry says. “They also give us knowledge of the general coffee industry in Australia and honest feedback, so we’ve actually been able to improve our coffee.” One of the initiatives Nowek Farms runs in PNG, which Wolff Coffee Roasters has supported over the years, is the Growing Futures – Coffee Seedling Program. This project and the problems it’s attempting to address were the main topics of Terry’s Creating Coffee Connections presentation on 29 April. “We’ve got a coffee nursery at our mill and through Growing Future, hand out free seedlings to communities, schools, and farmers to encourage people to plant coffee. We transport the seeds out to their area, help plant them, then education them on how to maintain good farm maintenance and harvest practice,” Terry says. “That’s been running since 2014 or 2015. We have handed out just over 70,000 seedlings and will continue to grow that program.” More than half the PNG population relies on coffee production for income, however, Terry says an aging tree population is leading to declining production levels. Growing Futures is intended to encourage people to replant more prosperous coffee trees. “In Brazil or Central America, the average age of a coffee tree is around 15 years old. In PNG, it’s closer to 40 to 50, and the older the tree gets the less it produces,” he says. “In 2011, PNG produced more than one million [60-kilogram] bags of coffee. That’s slowly been on the decline to just over 700,000 bags per annum. It’s a concerning issue for everyone in the coffee industry in PNG, and it’s something we’re

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putting in the spotlight, to come up with solutions and make production increase.” The Creating Coffee Connections presentation went into many other factors of PNG coffee production as well, such as problems with roads and infrastructure, environmental conditions, deforestation, and general farming practices. While Terry has been grounded in Australia due to COVID-19, his siblings have continued the hands-on running of

They appreciate a great coffee and are happy to help out. Australians have more interest in getting involved at the farm level than I’ve experienced from other countries. It’s not just supporting the program but wanting to talk with the people involved and getting their hands dirty,” Terry says. “PNG is a close neighbour of Australia, it’s only a three-hour flight to Brisbane. If we can raise awareness of the faced issues

Creating Coffee Connections provides producers with an opportunity to speak directly with the Australian community.

Wolff’s first Creating Coffee Connections event since the onset of COVID-19 quickly sold out.

Nowek Farms. Otherwise, he says PNG coffee production has fared better than other origins throughout the pandemic. “The main impact from COVID-19 on coffee farming in PNG last year was the fear surrounding it, with farmers in rural areas not willing to travel into town. But from what we’ve seen with the amount we’re processing, there hasn’t been too much disruption to coffee itself,” Terry says. “People still need to farm and earn a living. PNG has many challenges and COVID has just added to the list.” Although attendance was limited due to social distancing restrictions, tickets to the Creating Coffee Connections event sold out quickly. Terry says the audience was engaged and wanted to learn more. “Australia has a good coffee industry.

in PNG, and help address them, there’s a lot of opportunity to improve the coffee with new processes and better quality, so the farmers especially can be rewarded for their efforts.” Working with Wolff Coffee Roasters has given Terry ideas for new processing methods he can introduce to Nowek Farms and PNG coffee farmers. It has also helped the roaster organise an initiative to support one of the schools in the community near Nowek Farms. Creating Coffee Connections ended with a tasting of coffee from Nowek Farms. Peter says the crowd was excited to be back together on the other side of the pandemic and left with a greater appreciation for PNG coffee. “Everyone here in the Brisbane coffee community has really missed that connection to producers over the last 12 to 18 months, and it will probably be another 12 to 18 months before we see a real shift in people travelling somewhat freely. So, there was a real positive energy in the space and we’re grateful we could make it happen,” Peter says. “We tell our customers who purchase Terry’s coffee about what’s going on in PNG, but it becomes so much more tangible when he’s here himself, saying ‘these are things we’ve done and achieved’.” For more information, visit www.wolffcoffeeroasters.com.au

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SCAN THIS BARCODE FOR A DEMO

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INDUSTRY PROFILE

Dynamic vision Espressology Founder Instaurator on how to navigate a competitive market and why quality will always remain the driving force behind successful coffee businesses.

f Australia’s café market was considered competitive prepandemic, then the bar has been raised even higher with venues fighting to gain and retain consumer attention. Those that survived 2020 got through thanks to customer loyalty and diversifying their product, but going forward, Espressology Founder Instaurator says it’s the businesses that put quality first that will stand the test of time. “When I received an online inquiry recently from a guy in Hobart, I asked him where he saw his café business in five to 10 years’ time. He replied, ‘I can’t really say, but all I know is that I want to remain dedicated to quality and generating new ideas.’ That, to me, is the best business plan you can have, to be committed to quality at all costs,” Instaurator says. “If you apply that dynamic vision to your business dealings, it will always help achieve your goals.” Espressology has shared that same ideology from the get-go. The Sydneybased private label and contract roasting business is committed to the consistency of flavour and quality of every batch of coffee it roasts. For the past 13 years, Espressology has worked closely with its customers to create blends that reflect each individual customer’s taste

preferences to help grow their dream coffee businesses. When Instaurator was a “young bloke”, he met the late chairman of illycaffè, Dr Ernesto Illy, at the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA) Expo. Ernest had a PhD in chemistry and was considered a “marketing genius”. At the expo, Instaurator watched fans crowd around Ernesto like a celebrity. Determined to ask his opinion on the best espresso machine on the market, Instaurator found his moment and asked the Italian businessman. “Ernesto leaned in and said in his best educated Italian voice: ‘the one with the best backup.’ I thought about it for a while and realised what he said made a lot of sense. A quality product will ensure machine longevity and consistency, but the manufacturer with the ability to support you if the equipment ever breaks down or provide spare parts easily is just as important. It was a really practical response,” Instaurator says. “That conversation has always come to mind when I make decisions about the roasting equipment I install at Espressology. It’s one of the reasons I decided to work with Mark Beattie of Coffee Roasters Australia and invest in one of his roasters for our SCA courses.

For 13 years, 23hundred Espresso Bar has delivered Newcastle customers with a quality and consistent product.

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Mark’s business is reliable, supportive, and committed to producing a quality product.” Another of Espressology’s connections with an unwavering commitment to quality is Peter Johnston of 23hundred Espresso Bar in Newcastle. A former wharfie and BHP worker, Peter decided to dive into hospitality and open his own coffee shop with the intention of drinking coffee all day long. But in 25 years, Peter says he hasn’t sat down once. With no hospitality experience, Peter was lured into the world of franchising and spent eight years trying to withstand the competitive shopping centre environment with his quality-made coffee and charm. Peter says he put 110 per cent effort into the job but, eventually, it was time to move on. “I was determined to not fall back into the hospitality world, but I kept walking past this vacant shop. I tried not to look at it but for whatever reason I kept walking past thinking the location was too good to not have something in it. I went to the landlord hoping he’d give me a high price that would convince me out of it, but the price was reasonable. It was too good to be true,” Peter says. With the opportunity to do things his way, Peter turned the Scott Street site into a dedicated espresso bar and Googled ‘coffee roasters’. Espressology was one of the names that came up. “When you look at Instaurator’s background, it’s very impressive. He’s world renowned yet approachable and so humble, and his entire team is like that. That includes former trainer Mitch Faulkner, and even now Ged [Ryan, Chief Operating Officer] and Rob [Murrell, Client Services Director], are always in touch and come up to visit. Each one has been so helpful and nothing but supportive,” Peter says. “We have stayed with Espressology the entire time we’ve been in business – 13 years.” The reason being, Peter says, is because of Espressology’s ongoing support and quality-driven coffee. “The feedback we get from our customers is how consistent the coffee has been over the 13 years. We haven’t

Business at 23hundred Espresso Bar is thriving, producing up to 60 kilograms of coffee per week.

changed the blend once and I think that’s why our customers have been so loyal – because they know they’re going to get a delicious coffee that taste like coffee, and believe me, I’ve drunk a lot and it’s still the best to me,” Peter says. “It’s for the same reason people go to Soul Origin around the country, they know what to expect.” Peter may be one of Espressology’s longest customers, but even he admits he’s a very bad customer. “I expect good service and a good product, not just from what we serve to our customers at 23hundred Espresso Bar, but from Espressology. I’m a real critic, and Espressology has always been 10/10 in my book, so that’s saying something,” Peter says.

Operating 23hundred Espresso Bar over the years hasn’t been without its challenges. The café had a fence placed around it for 12 months with restricted access while Newcastle developed its light rail system, resulting in a 70 per cent drop in trade. Then came the decision to host the Supercars Championship, turning the surrounding streets into a racetrack circuit, and then COVID-19 hit. Thankfully, Peter says “business is back” and at full capacity, churning out well over 50 to 60 kilograms of coffee per week. “Around 65 per cent of our business is coffee. We’re a dedicated espresso shop that’s always focused on delivering a quality product,” Peter says. “I’m a bit pedantic but I’ve always ensured we

keep our standards high – it’s the only way to guarantee return trade if you’re not in a premium location. Create a bit of banter, make the customer laugh, give them a good coffee, and a reason to come back again.” Instaurator says attitudes like Peters are a refreshing reminder that quality can’t be compromised, even in a market that’s seeing a strong uptake of retail coffee and “enormous demand” from online start-up businesses wanting to make their foray into the coffee world. “It’s becoming a tough environment, and a very competitive market,” Instaurator says. “What these new businesses have to remember is that it’s OK to come into the market offering a low product price to begin with, but if they want longevity, they’re going to find themselves in a pressure situation later on. Those that have a solid business model focused on delivering a quality product will go far, and we’d be happy to help them on that journey and realise their business potential.” For more information, visit espressology.com

Easy to use, Easy to carry, Easy to clean. This is HUNU. The all new HUNU cup folds down small enough to fit into even the tightest pockets. Made with food grade silicone and with a bamboo fibre lid, the HUNU cup is free of BPA, toxins and all sorts of other nasty chemicals. The HUNU also includes a heat resistant band and a built in plug to make it leak proof when folded down. Scan the QR code to discover more. Distributed in Australia by Coffee Tools Distributing www.coffeetools.supply

MICE2021

MELBOURNE INTERNATIONAL COFFEE EXPO

Roasters reunite at MICE

The Melbourne International Coffee Expo is within reach, with the September event set to be the first Australian dedicated coffee expo in more than two years.

ast year, many people could count the number of times they saw friends, family or colleagues on their hands. Zoom replaced hugs, handshakes and human contact. But thankfully, with careful management of COVID-19 cases in Australia, and the return of interstate travel and football spectators, life is returning to some degree of the normalcy we once knew. With that, comes the excitement of welcoming back events, and the one our industry needs most – the Melbourne International Coffee Expo, taking place from 9 to 11 September at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre. “It’s been a long time coming, but we’re excited to host what will arguably be the biggest industry reunion of the year,” says MICE Show Director Lauren Winterbottom. “MICE has always been a designated place to do business, and more than ever the industry needs an opportunity to meet suppliers, seek out innovation, and reconnect under the one roof.” MICE is already shaping up to be exciting event with more than 90 per cent of exhibition space sold, and the highest number of new roaster exhibitors to date. St Ali returns as a Platinum Sponsor, with CEO Salvatore Malatesta saying this is the must-attend industry event. “MICE has always been a special

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Veneziano Coffee Roasters will attend MICE for the ninth year running.

feature on the annual calendar, as a national and world coffee event. This years’ will be a reminder of the importance of collaboration as an industry, and a celebration for getting through the challenges 2020 presented,” Salvatore says. “Melbourne has always celebrated coffee as part of its cultural identity, and this September will be no different.” One returning exhibitor who has never missed a year in MICE’s nine-year history is Veneziano Coffee Roasters. “MICE is about supporting the industry. It’s about supporting our customers and suppliers, and an opportunity to showcase and launch new products, new blends, and new equipment. Just what that is for Veneziano, you’ll have to wait and see, but we always bring something big to showcase at MICE,” says Veneziano Managing Director Craig Dickson. “We know everyone’s had a tough 2020, so more than anything MICE this year will be a great opportunity to fly the whole Veneziano team in from around the

country. We’re an interactive industry based on people connections, so to come together in person – without Zoom – is going to be fantastic.” For Toby’s Estate General Manager Jody Leslie, MICE has always been an opportunity to seek out new innovations, try different coffees, and get a sense of the personalities behind some of Australia’s biggest brands. This year, Jody expects to showcase Toby’s “foray into flavour” and some exciting new developments. “We’re looking forward to showing some love to our wholesale partners, some of whom are still recovering from last year, and focusing on the local market,” Jody says. “Australia does outstanding expos and MICE is the best representation of our coffee industry under the one roof. For anyone wanting a sample of our coffee culture or to view our coffee landscape on the world scale, you can’t beat MICE. We’re very good at what we do. We know it. The international stage knows it – and so to

be part of the event and showcase Toby’s to the world makes me quite proud.” Undercover Roasters is one newcomer to the MICE2021 line-up. Alex O’Connor says this will be the first dedicated coffee tradeshow the company has exhibited at, having only been operating since 2016. “We’re a pretty small roaster so there’s lots of people who have never heard of us before. We knew that MICE is the must-attend industry expo, so we really hope we can find our place in the market and gain more brand recognition at the show,” Alex says. “We will be showcasing our staple blends, a whole new range of chocolates and chai, and hopefully some beautiful Ethiopian or Kenyan single origins that we know people are going to love.” Andreas Martinu from Reverence

Coffee Roasters is another first-time exhibitor. With its original site and café in Ascot Vale just a 10-minute walk from MICE’s inaugural location at the Melbourne Showgrounds, Andreas used to welcome exhibitors, competition judges and even World Barista Champions before the expo doors opened. This year however, he’ll be the one exhibiting. “We’ve always been pretty successful at growing organically but the feedback I keep getting from wholesale accounts is that although our coffee and service is great, we’re not as well known in the market as we should be given the volume we do. We’ve never been good at self-promotion so what better way to get our name out there than attend MICE,” Andreas says. While still in the planning phases, Andreas intends for his stand to be “something pretty special” in order to make its presence felt amongst the sea of roasters. “We want café operators tasting 90 per cent of our business offerings, including our blends and some special lots from maybe Ethiopia or El Salvador,” Andreas says. “We’re looking to expand the business to Sydney and Brisbane so what better way

to springboard our business than get the word out at MICE.” On a grander scale, after a year a part, Andreas says MICE is also a symbolic reminder of the freedom Australians are fortunate to have in this COVID world. “It’s easy to forget what last year was like. It was tough for many, especially in hospitality, so to have this freedom and attend an event like MICE once again is truly special. I, for one, don’t take this opportunity for granted and appreciate how lucky we are,” Andreas says. For more information and tickets, visit internationalcoffeeexpo.com

Sustainability feature

BeanScene 2021 Sustainability Focus In this special feature, BeanScene speaks to leading Australian companies about their sustainable commitments, products, and services helping to contribute to a healthier planet.

or Happy Happy Foods, sustainability is more than just an action. It’s a commitment and belief that encompasses every fibre of its business. Company Co-founder Lloyd Smith says sustainability is about making considerate decisions about the use of resources to ensure the longevity of our food systems and planet. “Knowledge and transparency are the tools that companies and individuals can rely on to adopt better habits and minimise their environmental impact,” he says. “The food system that has been built over the last century is a dead end for the future. It is clear that the most sustainable environmental strategy is to move away from animal products. Our aim is to provide consumers with product choices that are nutritionally as good as, or better, than the products they are replacing.”

The food service industry plays a considerable part in setting trends and influencing consumer behaviour. By developing sustainable practices and creating products with the least environmental impact as possible, Lloyd says businesses can lead by example. “In the coffee industry, this comes down to the goods that companies produce and the products that cafés choose, which directly impact the customers decision and consumption, and therefore, their carbon footprint,” Lloyd says. “This influence is a huge responsibility but also represents an opportunity to create a positive impact.” Happy Happy Foods hopes to lead the charge with an ongoing commitment to “measure, reduce, and offset” all of its

generated emissions (see more on page 74). It is committed to making continuous environmental improvements through informed and incremental changes of its current operations and with future products. Company Director John Cruse says its ambitions are not always easy to implement but understanding its carbon footprint allows the company to be better. “The concept of sustainability is of the utmost consideration when it comes to our decision making process at Happy Happy Foods,” he says. “The environment deserves a seat at the boardroom, and for that reason, we are continuously looking for ways to implement environmental best practice.” Read on to learn more about Happy Happy Foods’ sustainable practices, and those of other Australian businesses committed to reducing their environmental footprint for a healthier, more sustainable future.

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Sustainability feature

Waste away Compost Connect is an online platform that provides cafés, businesses, and all Australians with easy solutions for their food and packaging waste.

aste going to landfill is too big a problem for just one company to solve. It will take a collective effort from the consumer, business, and the government. That’s why sustainable food packaging company BioPak is sending out an open invitation to all industry members to be involved with the online platform Compost Connect. “There is next to no end-of-life solution for food packaging in Australia. The percentage currently recycled or reused is in the single digits – there’s no avoiding the waste crisis. For cafés, this is particularly visible because of the focus on takeaway coffee cups, but it’s reflective of all food packaging,” says Gary Smith, CEO of BioPak. Commercial composting facilities can turn food packaging, mixed with coffee grinds and organic food waste, into high-quality soil food.

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“At BioPak, we take plants, produce products, use them for a short period of time, then return it to the soil to feed more plants and create more products. While Gary recognises some “naysayers sit back and comment about the lack of compost systems and infrastructure”, he argues it is the most effective solution for food packaging waste. “The lack of compost infrastructure, as well as the extremely poor food and beverage packaging recycle rates and infrastructure, should motivate them to find solutions, not motivate them to continue with current poor practices, poor recovery rates, and commentary instead of action,” he says. “We at BioPak acknowledged there wasn’t enough composting infrastructure,

so in 2018 we started to collect the waste from our customers and take it straight to composting facilities. We’ve done that fairly successfully for two or three years, but that was only a solution for BioPak. Our mission is to create a solution for Australia.” Launched in May, Compost Connect is Australia’s first national composting network, connecting foodservice businesses with industrial composters nationwide. While BioPak founded and sits on the board of Compost Connect, alongside the Australasian Bioplastics Association, the platform operates as a separate not-for-profit service. “Compost Connect is for everybody. We invite packaging distributors, waste collection services, industrial compost facilities, and businesses that don’t work with us directly to take part and turn this into a single source for all Aussies who want to compost, find compostable packaging, or someone to collect the waste,” Gary says. Using Compost Connect is simple for a café or food service business. They just enter their postcode on the website homepage and are provided with a list of companies in the area that will collect compostable waste from them. There is also a section for individuals, where people can view the businesses in their area that are signed up to a composting service. They can even find where to buy compost for their own garden. Gary says the aim of Compost Connect was to break down the barriers preventing many small businesses from making more environmentally friendly choices. “When it comes to using sustainable food packaging, the perceived cost has been the biggest detractor for small businesses, but it’s reached the point where the difference isn’t that much. Now, the challenge is to debunk the myth that it’s ‘difficult’, because people don’t realise how simple it is to change and how functional the options are,” Gary says. “If they don’t know how to do it or

BioPak CEO Gary Smith and Rockpool owner Neil Perry are embracing Compost Connect.

where to find solutions, Compost Collect provides a business with simple solutions. They can search the platform, find a collection service, and have a compost bin delivered within as little as a day.” While several options have popped up in the sustainable packaging and takeaway cup space, Gary believes compostable alternatives to be the best fit for the foodservice space. Reusable options are part of the solution, however lifecycle studies show if all packaging and in particular cups, were composted, the environmental impact is similar. Gary adds while recyclable cups are made with the best intentions, they are currently not recycled in Australia. If the cup or takeaway container is contaminated with food or milk/coffee residue, it will still be sent to landfill, no matter what bin it is put into. “The coffee industry is disproportionately targeted when it comes to waste because of the visibility of single-use cups. In reality, it’s the food and organics going to landfill, more so than just the packaging, that truly needs to be diverted. That’s what releases the methane, a massive contributor to climate change and environmental damage” Gary says. “It shouldn’t even be thought of as ‘waste’ but as an ‘unused resource’. For instance, coffee grinds are incredibly nutrient rich and a great soil food. If a café signs up for a compost

bin, where they can divert that coffee waste and throw in their compostable packaging too, they’re doing a massive service for the community. Not only are they stopping waste from going to landfill, they’re producing a high quality compost or soil food, not typical garden waste produced fertiliser.” Compost Connect already services more than 2200 postcodes, with the aim to expand that to more than 4000. Prior to launch, network trials had already diverted more than 4500 tonnes of organics and packaging from landfill, which was instead processed into nutrient-rich compost in less than 12 weeks. The amount that is set to significantly increase in the next few years. “Within days of launching, we’ve already seen a massive response from waste, food and packaging industry leaders, local and state governments, and the initiative is endorsed and co-funded by the Federal government’s Product Stewardship Centre of Excellence. They are all complementary and supportive of the platform” Gary says. “They see its potential to help lead a massive sustainable and behavioural change in Australia. People are more aware of the impact organic waste and single use plastic products have on the environment. The media is putting more emphasis on it and state and local governments are implementing

changes to how and if businesses can use single-use packaging. South Australia, Queensland, and the Australian Capital Territory already have laws in place and BioPak is working with the Victorian and New South Wales governments on how they could introduce proposed changes as well. Soon, sustainable packaging won’t be a choice, it will be a requirement.” Even as consumers step in and governments step up, Gary says it’s the responsibility of the foodservice and coffee industries to create change and help divert their waste from landfill. “It’s up to individual businesses to step up and process their waste through the right end-of-life options. Compost Connect will show every business that it’s not hard to make a simple change in a short period of time with massive impact,” Gary says. “We’re getting new partners signing up daily, whether that’s suppliers, waste collectors or composting facilities, allowing us to reach even more of Australia. With more products going to industrial compost, governments will see the need to upgrade, fund, and create more of these facilities, creating new jobs and infrastructure, as opposed to more landfill.” Neil Perry, renowned chef and owner of Rockpool, Spice Temple, and Rosetta restaurants in Melbourne and Sydney, has signed on as an ambassador of Compost Connect from its inception. He will use the service for his new sustainably-focused restaurant, Margaret, opening in Double Bay, NSW, this June. Neil said in a statement he has grave concerns for the future of Australia and is calling for others in the hospitality sector to take accountability for the waste they bring into the world. “I’m scared for what the world might look like for my children and children’s children. If we don’t act now, we’re going to end up in a really awful situation. Sadly, it’s unsurprising that the foodservice industry creates so much waste, however, we still have the opportunity to change this if we make transformations now,” Neil said. “As a country, we need to re-think our processes and start thinking of the bigger picture. We need to work together to address the problem, reduce organic waste, and contribute to achieving a better society for future generations. This initiative is going to change how the foodservice industry operates for the greater good of our country.” For more information, visit www.compostconnect.org

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Sustainability feature

Change for the future Bonnie Coffee is committed to improving its emissions, promoting sustainable choices to consumers, and preservation for the next generation.

isiting Bonnie Coffee is a unique experience. Its two coffee shops sit on the ground floor of large heritagelisted buildings in the heart of the Melbourne and Sydney CBDs, combining a classic aesthetic interior with modern and sophisticated coffee to create a feeling almost like stepping out of time. “The heritage-listed buildings will be here forever, so it sends the message ‘we’re here to stay’. We do the same thing consistently, day in, day out, and that’s what makes it so great time after time,” says co-owner Lloyd Smith. Bonnie Coffee is committed to preserving more than just its historical façade. Sustainability is at the heart of the business and everything it does, from responsibly sourcing coffee for its Mumma’s Boy Blend to receiving carbon neutral certification from Climate Active. “Bonnie Coffee is named after my mother, and the business lives by the lessons she taught me. The first one of these is to do one thing and do it properly. That means we need to be the best at what we can be, and make the best choices for ourselves, our businesses, and our customers,” Lloyd says. “She also instilled in me a respect for our people, our land, and our planet. We have an obligation to take care of our planet for future generations – this means stopping the intense carbon emitting activities that are contributing to global warming.” To receive this certification, Bonnie Coffee first had to carry out a carbon audit to determine its exact emissions. Climate Active measured everything from staff transport, to energy consumption, to emissions from input products – like coffee and other supplies

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– and equipment used. “This audit highlights where all your emissions are actually coming from, which educates you to make better, lower impact choices. For example, we were able to recognise that if we perform a couple of small fixes, it will drastically reduce our energy usage,” Lloyd says. “We switched to green energy, made sure the fridges were well sealed, and put in an airlock over the front door that traps in hot or cool air, so the air conditioner isn’t working as hard.”

Bonnie Coffee in Melbourne and Sydney sit on the ground floor of heritage listed buildings.

For emissions that can’t be reduced, Bonnie Coffee purchases carbon credits to support the Bundled Renewable Wind Power Project of Pangolin Associates in the Rajasthan region of India. “India is a huge contributor to carbon emissions but it’s also a country less fortunate than ours. Supporting and investing in this program provides an opportunity to reduce these emissions,” Lloyd says. Another way Bonnie Coffee embraces sustainability is encouraging customers to think about how their individual choices will impact their own environmental footprint. Lloyd says the café’s promotion of lower-emission dairy alternatives for milk-based coffees has resonated with customers, with roughly half of its coffees now served with plant-based milk. “Livestock farming, including the production of dairy milk, contributes 21 per cent of total greenhouse gas emissions. Shifting to a predominantly plant-based diet is a key part of the climate solution,” he says. “We, the hospitality industry, must take a leadership role in driving change and consumer behaviour.” Bonnie Coffee will progress its sustainability journey by continuing to promote plant-based products, sourcing more environmentally friendly supplies like cups and lids, and further reducing its emissions. “We need to act responsibly, find the solution, and be a part of it, not add to the problem,” Lloyd says. “We can’t rely on governments to do it for us, it needs to be a movement from the ground up. Every business or product has some sort of carbon emission and offsetting that is a great start.” For more information, visit www.bonnie.coffee

The Hunu pocket rocket Coffee Tools Distributing has launched a collapsible reusable cup that ticks all the boxes for a sustainable and practical product that can be taken anywhere on-the-go.

he first thing Coffee Tools Distributing Director Curtis Arnold did when the first batch of Hunu reusable cups arrived was test if the product did what it claimed to do: fit in your pocket. “It really did. It’s a lightweight, good sized cup that collapses down easily and does slide into my pocket. Here at Coffee Tools Distributing, we don’t sell anything we don’t believe in or wouldn’t use ourselves, and this product is no exception,” Curtis says. “I had bought all the other collapsible coffee cups on the market to compare it with, and Hunu really does stand on its own for being a truly slim fit, sturdy enough to hold coffee, and portable. It’s ideal for anyone wanting coffee on the go. You can keep it in your pocket,

The collapsible Hunu cup is leak proof and durable thanks to its food-grade silicon material.

put it in your bag, or leave it in your car or caravan until you next need it.” Vince Dickson and Megan Williams created Hunu after being alarmed by the sheer volume of single-use cups sent to landfill each day. They went looking for a reusable cup and decided to create their own, edging on the side of convenience. It needed to be big enough to hold a coffee and small enough to fit into a pocket – at just two centimetres where fully collapsed. The cup is made from durable, food-grade silicon, and the lid from bamboo fibre. It comes with a heat insulating band and has a built-in plug to ensure the product is leak proof when folded down. It’s also easy to clean and dishwasher proof due to the nonporous silicone material. The cup is available in nine-ounce or 265-millilitres, which Curtis says is best suited to the needs of the Australian market, with other size options available soon. Curtis spends a lot of time scanning the international market for new and exciting products. He reads coffee periodicals and deep dives into anything he thinks could be a match for Australian coffee lovers at Coffee Tools Distributing. So, when Curtis came across Hunu on Kickstarter, he backed it, reached out to its founders, and ordered samples right away. “It’s commonly known that disposable products have a big impact on landfill and the environment, so to find a sustainable product such as Hunu really does tie in with our sustainability goals at Coffee Tools Distributing,” Curtis says. In addition, the company has been donating to the Trillion Trees project for a couple of years, a non-profit

The Hunu is just two centimetres wide when collapsed.

organisation with a mission to bring people together to plant and grow trees to achieve a healthy and biodiverse environment. Coffee Tools Distributing planted one tree for each of its customers this past Christmas. Curtis is also proud to have joined One Per cent for the Planet this year, a global movement inspiring businesses and individuals to support environmental solutions through everyday actions. Coffee Tools Distributing is also gearing up to exhibit at the Melbourne International Coffee Expo (MICE) in September and will present Hunu cups along with its full range of best-selling products including the AeroPress Coffee Makers and Wacaco’s Minipresso and Nanopresso. It will also be featuring some exciting new ones. “We love exhibiting at MICE. We always bring a really exciting product to promote, and this year will be no different,” Curtis says. “Until then, I really have a positive outlook on the year ahead. We’re so lucky to be in Australia. Things are going well, we have a great range of products to talk about and can’t wait for Australia to discover Hunu.” For more information, visit www.coffeetools.supply

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Sustainability feature

Giving the planet a coffee break Grinders Coffee is making coffee at home more sustainable with a range of Nespresso compatible, compostable capsules launched across Australia.

hree million coffee capsules are sent to landfill each day in Australia. With this in mind, Grinders Coffee has developed and released its industrially compostable capsules to be available nationwide. The new Nespresso compatible and compostable capsules, which are roasted and packed in Melbourne, take one year to break down in landfill compared to plastic capsules, which take 500 years and aluminium capsules, 200 years, to break down. Sally Byrne, General Manager of Grinders Coffee, says Australians have very high standards when it comes to coffee. And as one of the leading coffee brands in Australia, Grinders Coffee continues to drive innovation with its new compostable capsules and offer a sustainable option in the market without impacting their quality. “Australians have a love affair with coffee and enjoy curating and creating the perfect cup at home; and we are bringing great innovation for those coffee moments without compromising on our rich indulgent flavour,” Sally says. Despite some recycling options on existing capsules available today, Sally says less than 5 per cent of capsules are currently being recycled due to challenges of collection and processing. “Our compostable capsules are a giant step forward in bringing progress and innovation to the coffee category.

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Capsules are the largest segment in roast and ground [coffee products], accounting for $259 million, and is the fastest growing segment in coffee, growing by more than 40 per cent,” she says. “Moving towards more environmentally friendly capsules will offer our customers a better alternative to what is currently available.”

and the strong, intense, dark chocolate notes of its Double Espresso coffee. The Grinders Compostable Capsules have a Europe-based EN13432 certification, are suitable for industrial composting, and can be placed in an organics waste bin – if the local council accepts it. Grinders Coffee encourages consumers to visit their local council

“OUR COMPOSTABLE CAPSULES ARE A GIANT STEP FORWARD IN BRINGING PROGRESS AND INNOVATION TO THE COFFEE CATEGORY. CAPSULES ARE THE LARGEST SEGMENT IN ROAST AND GROUND [COFFEE PRODUCTS], ACCOUNTING FOR $259 MILLION, AND IS THE FASTEST GROWING SEGMENT IN COFFEE, GROWING BY MORE THAN 40 PER CENT.” The new compostable capsules will allow Grinders Coffee’s loyal consumers to continue to enjoy the quality coffee they have come to know and love since 1962. They will also introduce new fans to the fruity, smooth delivery of Crèma, the “perfect balance” of Grinders’ Espresso or full-bodied Rich Espresso,

website for more information. The capsules only take one year to break down when industrially composted. If the local council does not allow it or have an appropriate collection system, Grinders Coffee’s compostable capsules can be placed in the general waste bin.

Powered by Sally says Grinders Coffee believes in a better coffee experience for everyone, and compostable capsules are just one-way it is offering more sustainable choices for customers across Australia. The roaster has set itself the goal for all of its packaging to be 100 per cent recyclable by 2025. “We are creating better designed and light-weight packaging that replaces virgin materials with recycled content,” Sally says. “Our cups are made from 100 per cent PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification) certified sustainable and renewable resources. We also have introduced single wall takeaway cups and are replacing all our double wall cups where possible, reducing our waste by 40 per cent.” Grinders Coffee is also collaborating with companies with sustainability know-how to help the business reach its full potential. “We are working closely with leading roasting experts to ensure our roasting processes are optimised for quality and consistency, including [using] renewable

and low carbon energy sources, which accounted for more than 95 per cent of energy used at Grinders in 2020,” Sally says. “Together with Planet Ark and other leading roasters, we are also collecting spent coffee grounds to be repurposed into innovative and higher value end use.” So far, more than 13 tonnes of spent coffee grounds through the Coffee 4 Planet Ark project, equivalent to more than 550,000 coffees saved from landfill. “On the back of this success, we have committed funding for a 12-month research and development program by the wider industry and Planet Ark,” Sally says. “This research will explore material innovation with brand partner, Caffitaly, to test alternative plastics.” Italian migrants Giancarlo Giusti and Rino Benassi established Grinders Coffee in 1962 in Lygon Street, the centre of Melbourne’s famous Italian quarter with the aim to bring the authentic taste of European coffee to Australia. Today, Sally says it remains true to

its “Streets of Melbourne” heritage by delivering a premium coffee experience, using the highest-quality green beans from around the world, including Fairtrade and Organic products. Still roasted in Melbourne, Grinders Coffee is available nationwide, thanks to the work of a dedicated team of sales, equipment, and service specialists, along with coffee training professionals and state-of-the-art coffee training facilities in Sydney, Melbourne, and Brisbane. Its compostable capsules range promotes this quality and dedication to consumers, who can now enjoy their coffee in a sustainable way at home. “We know Australians want more when it comes to their favourite brands, and Grinders Coffee is doing all it can to deliver a more sustainable coffee range with the highest quality coffee,” Sally says. The new Grinders Coffee industrial compostable capsule range is now available from independent supermarkets across Australia, on Amazon, and at www.grinderscoffee.com.au

Grinders Coffee Roasters compostable capsules are available nationwide.

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Sustainability feature

Swap that Why the HuskeeSwap program is an important step for the coffee community in helping transition from a single-use world, and why it’s set to become the norm in Australian cafés.

Using Huskee Cups is a safe and effective waste reduction method.

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hen it comes to sustainable behavioural change, it takes time, but it can be done. Supermarket shoppers now take reusable bags to collect their groceries, gym users carry stainless steel drink bottles in hand, and more restaurants are replacing plastic straws with metals ones. In the café scene, there is still a mix of ceramic, reusable, and single-use plastic cups being used, but according to Huskee Operations Manager Michael McFarlane, the end goal is a single-use free environment, and it’s no longer a matter of if but when the transition will occur. “The great news is that standard reusable cups do currently co-exist with single-use cups. Some cafés are committed to zero waste and some are already 100 per cent Huskee Cup users, but what we really want to see is an industry shift away entirely from single-use cups entirely and to normalise what it means to reuse,” Michael says. In his experience at Huskee and as a former café owner, he says there is still a lot of miscommunication surrounding single-use cups. Many café owners invest in products they think are recyclable or compostable, only to realise later on that some need to be disposed of in a specific way. For the past two years, Huskee has been an advocate for the benefits of its reusable cup made from repurposed coffee husk. The HuskeeCup was designed with the HuskeeSwap cup exchange program in mind, with the intention to build a system for cafés to reduce their single-use cups usage, and eventually transition to the new system. The program launched in 2019, then COVID-19 hit, sparkling unwarranted safety concerns. “It was really frustrating to see so much uncertainty around the use of reusable cups. We saw many cafés introduce a ban, but there was never actually a government ban on reusable cups,” Michael says. “There was a tension point between the

café wanting to be perceived by customers as doing everything it could to keep its staff and community safe and healthy, including reducing ‘unnecessary’ risks such as using reusable cups. And on the other side, was uncertainty from the consumer asking their local barista if they still accepted their reusable cup.” What’s transpired post-COVID however, is a greater influx of cafés wanting to be part of the HuskeeSwap program because of its hygiene benefits – which were already in place preCOVID but are now noticed and more appreciated, Michael says. “What we’re seeing is a high number of cafés looking at their invoices and realising how much money they’ve spent on single-use products and how much waste is associated with it,” he says. “Before COVID, about 20 per cent of cafés on average served customers with a reusable cup. That dipped to about 10 per cent during COVID, and as we get back to business and begin to recover and normalise reusable cup usage, we’re seeing about 40 to 50 per cent of trade using reusable cups.” Huskee has partnered with nine councils across Australia including the Ballina and Hunters Hill region to Mosman and Lane Cove and Northern Beaches in New South Wales, who are not only helping fund the HuskeeSwap rollout, but encouraging it. “Council support is giving customers the confidence to know that it’s OK to use reusable cups again, and that their support has an even greater impact on the environment,” Michael says. Some councils are providing cafés with 12 Huskee float cups and lids to get started in the HuskeeSwap program, which offsets the initial costs. To date, more than 400 cafés have signed up to the HuskeeSwap program across 22 countries, including Australia, the United States, United Kingdom, and Canada. Cafés can sign up as a HuskeeSwap supporter and purchase about 12 HuskeeCups to float or have ready for

The HuskeeSwap program is scalable and convenient for cafés to join.

immediate swapping, with a further 12 cups to sell to customers. The revenue from the sale of the cups offsets the commercial cleaning costs, which is simply done via a dishwater or can be done manually with sanitation concentrate in large bodies of water for a specific time. At scale, there is a component of labour, electricity and water used, but Michael says the operational costs offset each time a HuskeeCup is swapped, saving the café costs associated with buying single-use cups, and diverting another cup sent to landfill. When the customer drops off their HuskeeCup and lid, the café takes it away for commercial cleaning on-site, along with their other ceramic cups. Staff don’t even need to handle the cups, with dropoff tub options available. The customer then orders their coffee as usual, which is made in a freshly sanitised HuskeeCup. “The hygiene element was a big consideration for cafés initially, even if the cup presented clean. People started questioning how clean the cup really was if sanitised or simply rinsed at home. The cup still has to travel to the café – via a bag, public transport, even with multiple touching of hands,” Michael says. “Having each cup returned to an active participating HuskeeSwap café and getting it commercially cleaned on-site was the best solution.” There were also concerns about café workflow and efficiency when handling so many different reusable cups.

“Picture 10 to 20 people holding a reusable cup in their hand, each a different shape, colour, and lid configuration that suddenly alters the barista’s set coffee to milk-ratio recipe. It becomes an inventory and workflow issue,” Michael says. To eliminate the inconsistencies, Michael says the HuskeeSwap system is the best answer. Its creators have thought of every possible scenario to make it a viable transaction. This includes the ability to borrow a cup, try before you buy, pre-order, and use Huskee’s closed loop program to have used or damaged HuskeeCups collected and repurposed into a new HuskeeCup. “Now it’s all about driving behavioural change. It can be a slow and difficult journey, but it is worthwhile, and it’s been done before – and the elimination of plastic bags is that example,” Michael says. All that’s needed is time and positive reinforcement to accelerate change. A restaurant fork has been in hundreds of people’s mouths, and a hotel bed and sheets are slept in by hundreds of people before you – but it’s accepted because customers know it’s been commercially cleaned. “We understand that this reusable concept is relatively new in a café setting, so we need to be vocal that it’s safe and

an effective waste reduction method. We want to make this movement the norm, so when someone hands over a HuskeeCup you’re not asking, ‘is it for the HuskeeSwap program?’ but assuming it is,” Michael says. “The future of reuse is in swapping – its scalable, convenient, and sizes are interchangeable.” Huskee is excited to build the momentum for its HuskeeSwap program throughout the year, and will continue to reach out to independent cafés, work closely with local councils, school and universities, and connect with the coffee industry in person when it hopes to attend the Melbourne International Coffee Expo in September. “We’re building for a future without single-use [cups],” Michael says. “There are lots of single-use plastics bans coming into play in the progressive states of South Australia and Queensland, and the Australian Capital Territory, but you can’t just take something away and not have something in place. That’s why we started Huskee two years ago. It’s in place to help transition away from single use so it’s not so much of a shock when we’re forced to.” For more information, visit huskee.co/swap/

More than 400 cafés are active HuskeeSwap participants who are helping normalise what it means to reuse.

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Sustainability feature

From A to Z Italian coffee processing and packaging manufacturer IMA Coffee is committed to improving the sustainability of its equipment, its customers, and even the materials running through its machines.

o IMA Coffee, being a sustainable business requires a holistic approach. It should go beyond improving the footprint of the Italian coffee processing and packaging equipment manufacturer, to reducing the environmental impact of its customers and even the suppliers it works with. The IMA Coffee hub consists of two arms – IMA Coffee Packaging and IMA Coffee Petroncini – which each take different approaches to sustainability. “Sustainability is a core pillar of the IMA Group’s mission in investing in technologies improving the quality of life, reducing waste, with a greater respect for the environment.” says Nicola Panzani, CEO of IMA Coffee Petroncini and Sales Director of IMA Coffee Packaging. “IMA Coffee is committed to this approach and contribute to the IMA Zero sustainability program through many activities, one of which is the sustainability of packaging.” While IMA Coffee does not produce coffee bags or capsules itself, it manufactures the equipment that will fill, seal, and handles them. “According to IMA NOP (No-Plastic Program), we promote eco-friendly plastic substitutes for the packages manufactured on IMA machines. Furthermore, IMA has established the Open Lab, a network of technological laboratories, where we study, develop and test compostable and recyclable materials to be used on our packaging,” Nicola says. IMA Coffee collaborates with material suppliers to help them develop options that are practical as well as environmentally friendly. “We work closely with our customers around the world to implement their desired packaging. Many are interested in compostable capsules and packaging which are inherently more difficult to process, so we need to know what new materials will be coming to the market so we can ensure our machines will be ready to work with them,” Nicola says. “For example, we’ve recently started cooperating with NatureWorks, one of the biggest producers of PLA plastic in

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the world, to foster the availability of compostable pods in North America, where Keurig-style machine are most common. In Europe and Australia, NespressoStyle capsules are more popular and embrace recyclable aluminium is widely adopted, so we make sure processing that is a capability of our machines. Through the research and testing of alternative processes and materials, together with our partners, we foster plastic-free and sustainable, compostable or biodegradable packaging solutions.” On the roasting and coffee processing side of the business, IMA Coffee Petroncini’s steps toward sustainability are more obvious, direct, and strictly related to IMA LOW (Low Impact Program), meant to increase sustainable practices to preserve resources, reduce emissions, and develop innovative low impact technologies. “We’ve implemented many developments to reduce the emissions of the roasting equipment we produce, with a number of solutions available that we can tailor to meet the customer’s needs.” This is made apparent in IMA Coffee Petroncini’s most advanced model, the TMR, which features a modular architecture and external heat generating unit. This external heater allows the TMR to deploy a heat recirculation system, eradicating roasting smoke, including odour and volatile compounds, with the partial recovery of the roasting air. Therefore, this system allows the thermal cleaning of the

The TMR deploys a heat recirculation system, eradicating roasting smoke with the partial recovery of the roasting air.

air ducts, reducing maintenance operations. “This technology is based on the concept that, rather than having one burner to heat the air for roasting coffee and a separate afterburner to keep gases from being released into the environment, it’s better to combine them into one single burner, this reduces energy consumption, and therefore emissions, by more than 30 per cent, compared to traditional roasters with open roasting cycle,” Nicola says. “This technology not only improves the TMR’s sustainability but its flexibility. This system uses convection heating and an innovative roasting control system, TMR allows to pre-draw the roasting profiles for a greater variety of unconventional recipes and, therefore, a perfect roasting repeatability.” Nicola calls IMA Zero a pledge to create products, production processes, and services that will help to shape the world of tomorrow, which resonates with the forward-thinking Australia coffee industry. “Australia is a market where there is significant attention to sustainability issues and our best-in-class technology is well suited to meet that demand,” Nicola says. “We will keep working on that. It’s a neverending process and we’re always looking for new system and solutions to reduce the environmental impact of our equipment and customers.” For more information, visit ima.it/beverage/coffee-hub/

CafeSmart unites again This year’s annual CafeSmart event will take on a global initiative with local reach, and it’s calling on the coffee community to dig deep in the fight against homelessness.

o be truly sustainable is about more than just the environment. According to non-profit organisation StreetSmart, having a social responsibility and considering the impact on staff, suppliers and communities is one small step Australian businesses can take to make a large impact. For 18 years, StreetSmart Australia has been developing campaigns to help people experiencing homelessness and work towards ending homelessness. Over the past decade, StreetSmart’s industryrecognised coffee event CafeSmart has helped raise $1.5 million to support more than 1000 grassroots homelessness projects. Each year, cafés and coffee drinkers across the country gather to raise funds for their local homelessness organisations and services. CafeSmart community project grants

CafeSmart donations have supported backto-school packs for vulnerable children.

Cafés like Home One are invited to support CafeSmart and the plight to end homelessness.

provide vital aid and practical resources to organisations caring for some of society’s most vulnerable people. This directly contributes to the aims of many of the United Nation’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), which support social sustainability at the community level. They include the goal to end extreme poverty; end hunger, achieve food security and improved nutrition and promote sustainable agriculture; ensure healthy lives and promote well-being for all at all ages; achieve gender equality and empower all women and girls; and reduce inequality within and among countries. StreetSmart Australia CEO and Founder Adam Robinson says these goals have given many companies and communities a framework for looking at sustainability holistically. “At StreetSmart, our team supports all 17 SDGs and believes in the power of

community to make the goals a reality,” Adam says. “We’re proud to be playing our part in creating the world we want to live in but know that we all must do more and strive to solve the big issues facing the world.” Through CafeSmart, roasters, cafés, coffee businesses and consumers have the opportunity to take action and support their local community. From 2 to 8 August, cafés will invite customers to donate the extra cost of a cup of coffee. On 6 August, cafés will donate $1 per coffee sold. For the third year, Vitasoy is the Principal Sponsor of CafeSmart, and is also supported by Broadsheet, La Marzocco and BeanScene. In 2020, generous donations were used to support local grassroots initiatives. This included a grant to deliver back-toschool supplies to vulnerable children of families fleeing domestic violence through The Northern Centre. A grant was also enacted to support the Byron Community Centre Homeless Shower program, providing basic hygiene service twice a week. Another grant helped provide essential baby and children’s items to social service organisations across Tasmania that work with vulnerable and at-risk children through Tassie Mums. This year marks the 11th year of CafeSmart. To join as a roaster partner or café for Australia’s industry recognised coffee movement CafeSmart and help make a difference to your local community, visit: streetsmartaustralia.org/cafesmart For more information, contact Cynthia Mac Caddon, Partnerships Manager, StreetSmart Australia on: cynthia@ streetsmartaustralia.org or 0423 814 799.

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Sustainability feature YourCoffee has installed two Loring S70 Peregrine roasters with sister company Industry Beans operating two S15 Falcons and an S7 Nighthawk.

An investment in the future

Loring customers discuss the many ways they benefit from fuel savings, reduction of greenhouse gases, and operational optimisation not possible without the highly efficient roaster.

hen it comes to coffee roasting, Loring has become synonymous with sustainability. The trademark of Loring is its patented roasting system, which uses a single burner to both heat the air for coffee roasting and incinerate smoke created during the roasting process. Not only does this remove the need for an external afterburner, it also means less energy is required to heat the air to an optimum temperature compared to air brought in at room temperature. This has a huge impact on the energy used and emissions produced. It also provides a higher consistency from roast to roast. “By switching from a conventional drum roaster and afterburner to a Loring roaster, a coffee roaster can reduce their gas consumption by up to 80 per cent, with a huge saving of

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carbon emissions too,” says Loring Australia Representative James Banman. “We’ve been seeing strong demand from Australian and New Zealand coffee roasters that want to hit new goals around sustainability. But that is only one reason we’re seeing people looking to Loring.” Melbourne-based contract roaster YourCoffee installed its first two Loring S70 Peregrine roasters in 2017. Brothers Trevor and Steven Simmons founded YourCoffee to apply the specialty coffee expertise they had built running sister company Industry Beans to largescale private customers. Trevor says Loring had the right equipment to make that happen. “The idea behind YourCoffee was to incorporate the fundamentals of specialty coffee roasting – small batch roasting, post-roast blending – into a scalable model that would allow us to achieve exceptional quality at high volumes in the most efficient way possible. We

found when looking at the different large-scale roasting machines, with 150 to 300-kilogram batch sizes, that it would be difficult to maintain that approach in a meaningful way.” Trevor says. “Instead, by utilising the two 70-kilogram-capacity Loring roasters, we were able to incorporate them into the smart, controllable, and flexible production line that we developed inhouse that lets us roast coffee to order at the highest quality, regardless of the order size. It’s a completely unique approach to larger-volume roasting and the results have been fantastic.” Thanks to the success of the Loring roasters, Trevor and Steven began transitioning to Loring roasters at Industry Beans too. The specialty roaster has Loring S15 Falcons at its flagship venues in Newstead, Queensland, and Fitzroy, Victoria, as well as an S7 Nighthawk set up at its recently opened

Powered by venue in Chadstone Shopping Centre, Victoria. The low emissions roasting and scalable and transferable roast profiles of Loring allows Industry Beans to roast onsite alongside and within their cafés, to create a truly immersive specialty coffee experience. “Having a Loring roaster means we can have centralised product development. We can develop roast profiles on the seven-kilogram model, then once we’re happy with them, roll them out across the larger fleet,” Trevor says. “The great thing we find with Loring roasters is that you can scale a roast profile design on the S7 right up to the S70. So, as we continue to grow the business, we don’t have to change everything to accommodate higher volume. We want to be modular, and each new Loring is like adding a new section to the same machine. When we roll out a new profile we’ve developed on the S7 in Melbourne, the team in Newstead can be sure it’s been tried and tested, and that they’ll execute it just as well on the S15.” The sustainability aspect of Loring also aligns with where Industry Beans is going as a business and what YourCoffee’s clients look for in a roasting partner. Loring roasters have a smaller footprint in more ways than one. When it came time for Rumble Coffee Roasters in Kensington, Victoria, to upsize its roasting equipment at the start of 2021, Head Roaster Matt Hampton says the Loring S35 Kestrel ticked all the boxes. “We don’t have a huge amount of space and didn’t want to have to move

With the Loring S35 Kestrel roaster, Rumble Coffee Roasters tripled its capacity per batch while using the same amount of gas.

to a larger location. We’re also quite close to apartments and housing, so not having to run an afterburner was another big factor,” Matt says. “By our math, with the Loring roaster we’re roasting about three times as much coffee per batch compared to the old roaster while using the same amount of gas. It’s also taking up about half as much space as other roasters with a similar capacity.” Scaling up its batch sizes has given Rumble more time to focus on other aspects of the business, like quality control and customer service. It did not take the team much time to adapt to using the new roaster, which Matt says was helped by support from Loring. “We had someone come here for two days to go through the machine, make sure it was set up properly, then spend a whole day training. Not many manufacturers will go to that much trouble unless you’re getting a much bigger roaster,” Matt says. “We also have a direct line with Loring in the United States and if any issues come up, they can jump right into the backend of the roaster’s software and see why an alarm has gone off.” Ultimately, Matt says Rumble sees the Loring as an investment in the future, for itself and for the planet. “We’ve kind of future-proofed ourselves for the next three to five years. We have the room to grow our business without having to move,” he says. “The coffee roasting side of the industry doesn’t get talked about as much as it should when it comes to

sustainability, but that’s changing. The more that we can save on electricity usage, gas usage, and our emissions, the more sustainable the industry will be as a whole.” Over in New Zealand, the coffee industry is seeing a similar growing appreciation for sustainability. Megan Piper, General Manager of Maven Coffee in NZ, says Loring roasters are not only sustainable, they’re a sensible choice when governments are cracking down on excess emissions. “In addition to our own personal desire to be a good corporate citizen, we are, of course, dealing with a natural product here, that depends on the health of our environment, so the industry must play its part,” Megan says. Mathew Johnstone, Head Roaster at Maven Coffee, says the Loring 35 Kestrel stands out for its sheer efficiency and versatility. “I’ve had experience with quite a few coffee roasters, and I don’t think you can get the consistency and flavours you get from Loring roasters anywhere else,” he says. “Because of its heat efficiency, the roast chamber’s heating time is greatly reduced, which allows you to turn over roasts much quicker. We’re getting as much roasted on the S35 Kestrel as I have before on much larger roasters.” This gives Maven Coffee the freedom to play around with its coffees, easily jumping from small batch lots and single origins to large volume roasting for multinational businesses. “We generally develop a profile manually first, save it, then use the Loring’s Roast Architecture software, which allows you to fine-tune the roast profile. From then on, the roaster will consistently hit those marks. There’s a lot of different coffee roasters in NZ and it’s a competitive market, so that guaranteed consistency is a good selling point,” Mathew says. Megan adds that the sustainability of Loring provides a business incentive for prospective customers. “Other companies want to know they’re doing the best they can for the environment too, so when you’re doing a lot of business-to-business work, being able to talk about the advantages of the Loring roaster is great,” Megan says. “As we know, sustainability is only going to become more and more important. What’s viewed as acceptable and unacceptable from a business is going to change and it’s important that coffee be at the forefront.” For more information, visit www.loring.com

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Sustainability feature

Unbreakable bonds Through the COVID-19 pandemic, the Minas Hill Foundation has continued to raise money for projects that support Brazilian coffee producers, their environments, and their communities.

he COVID-19 pandemic was a massive disruption to the coffee industry and supply chain, not only in consuming countries like Australia but also for producing countries such as Brazil. The Minas Hill Foundation, the not-for-profit sister organisation to trader Minas Hill Coffee, says farmers suffered from declines in their businesses, problems with logistics, and friends and family contracting the coronavirus. It has worked through 2020 to provide resources and support to the producers of Brazil. “Thanks to the benevolence of coffee roasters in Australia, many of these problems have been circumvented and a little sense of calm can be given to the heroes who produce much of the coffee consumed in Australia,” says Marcelo Brussi, Founder and CEO of the Minas Hill Foundation.

GIMA

The year 2020 started with renewed hope for the Oliveira family of Bom Jesus e Labareda farm. A management plan on the farm had been approved for the replacement of 10,000 coffee trees and the planting of an additional 15 hectares of new varieties, including Arara and Catigua. Gabriel and Flavia Oliveira’s socio-environmental project GIMA (Intermunicipal Games for the Environment), which educates and assists approximately 1000 children per year from around the Bom Jesus farm, was scheduled to take place in June. For the past 13 years, fifth grade children from surrounding schools prepare presentations focused on the environment and compete in playful games with each other to raise awareness. Marcelo says the Australian roasters who support GIMA were eager to experience the project in person. “At the end of the three days of activities, the children return home with a solid notion of social responsibility

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In 2020, the Minas Hill Foundation donated 124 mobile phones to Brazilian schoolchildren forced into remote schooling due to COVID-19.

and the capacity to make decisions that positively influence their futures,” he says. “As part of the prize for these children, our roasters in Australia make generous donations of money that are converted into bicycles, which in turn are used to commute from their homes to school. These children are from vulnerable families, which need this kind of support in addition to their own paid work.” However, with the pandemic, the dream of GIMA 2020 faded. The event was cancelled and its Australian supporters were unable to travel to Brazil. Instead of donating bicycles to participating children, Minas Hill had to come up with another plan to help the children continue their education. “It’s hard to understand the reality of those children. Schools had to stop because of the pandemic, and there’s still no in-person classes. Most of these children live in rural areas without access to their own computer, so there was no way to continue their studies,” Marcelo says. “Some teachers would just drive or ride their bike the whole day delivering papers to students who otherwise couldn’t access school materials. We came up with the idea of donating smartphones so they could get in touch with their teacher, communicate with each other, and actually follow along in lessons.”

Minas Hill chose large-screen smartphones over more expensive, larger tablets to get them in the hands of as many students as possible. Marcelo says it was a big undertaking finding the right phone and supplier, signing the contracts, organising the logistics and liabilities, and choosing which children received the phones, but that the project was worth it to make such a huge difference. “Thanks to dozens of supporters and the goodwill of our coffee companies who entered the scene, the Minas Hill Foundation donated 124 mobile phones with six months of pre-paid internet connection. The reaction of the schools that received them was touching and heart warming. We managed to circumvent the non-donation of bicycles, which are extremely useful for these children to be able to go to their schools, for something that was even more useful and necessary [in the current climate], says Marcelo. “The next challenge is in 2021. We need to mobilise roasters again so that the project does not die. I am positive, because there are companies that are strongly identified with and believe in this project.”

CARMO DO PARANAIBA HOSPITAL While Australia had close to zero community cases of COVID-19 in

Bom Jesus Farm’s GIMA initiative usually reaches around 1000 children per year.

March 2021, Brazil’s case numbers had never been higher. What happens when half the population of a city of approximately 25,000 inhabitants contracts COVID-19? That is what producer Ismael Andrade of Sao Silvestre farm witnessed firsthand on a hot March night when he was rushed to his hometown hospital earlier this year, of which he has been a philanthropist of since a young age. What Ismael witnessed was a hospital crammed with sick people, patients on stretchers waiting for medical care, and material and human resources practically exhausted. People were dying from lack of oxygen cylinders and the hospital did not have the financial resources to purchase any more in the short term. Ismael’s was left heart-broken and extremely worried, since more than half of Carmo’s economy comes from coffee. At approximately 2am Brazilian time, Ismael called Marcelo in Australia, asking for urgent help. “Through Minas Hill Coffee, we already have roasters that increase the price per kilogram of coffees a little with the surplus going straight to the hospital. We have been doing this for almost five years, but with the Minas Hill Foundation, this process has become easier and more transparent for roasters,” adds Marcelo. Since winning the 2018 Brazil Cup of Excellence, Ismael has invested in new processes and fermentation of his coffees, with part of the money collected from the sale of these micro lots also reverted directly to the hospital. Shortly after Ismael called Marcelo, the Minas Hill Foundation sent an e-mail to each business who uses Ismael’s coffee as the basis of their blends or single-origins and had almost 100 per cent support for the project. “In less than a week, we sent enough money to purchase approximately 130 cylinders of oxygen,” Marcelo says. “We do not know how many lives were saved, but we are happy to know that we have been able to contribute a little to alleviate the suffering of many Brazilians.”

STRONG FOUNDATIONS

Alongside these two projects, the Minas Hill Foundation has continued to support the initiatives it was involved in preCOVID. This includes the Wings project of Pedro Gabarra and his sister Mariana at Santo Antonio, Pinhal, Vertentes and Mirante Farm. The project rehabilitates local birds and fauna which have been liberated from poachers before returning them to the wild. While Wings did not have the same level of funding as in previous years, thanks to the Minas Hill Foundation, it could continue to care for animals already recovering on the farm. “Again, our roasters made the difference and the project could continue,” Marcelo says. “Seeing a cub tiger cat being released at the farm was the pinnacle of happiness for us. We believe that only environmental protection can guarantee a healthy future for our planet and our children.” The Minas Hill Foundation’s support of the Carmo do Paranaiba hospital and GIMA e-learning Project are still ongoing. With GIMA again cancelled in 2021,

Minas Hill is hoping to arrange a second shipment of smartphones by July 2021, in time for the student’s second semester. “If anyone in the coffee industry wants to be part of these projects, or can connect to the work they do, we are an open channel and encourage their involvement,” Marcelo says. Marcelo calls the coffee industry “large and complex”, often driven by the financial interests of large corporations that only seek profit. Through companies that bring green coffee to Australia from Brazil, like Minas Hill and the South American Growers Association, he hopes to bring a more human touch to buying and selling coffee. “Helping people and the environment in coffee producing countries that are poorer than Australia can guarantee the future of coffee,” Marcelo says. “We must not forget that the pandemic has hit these countries and these people hard. We still need on-going donations for these three projects and, as always, we count on the collaboration and benevolence of the Australians. Together we can make the difference.”

Minas Hill Coffee’s producing partners like Gabriel Oliveira work with the foundation to deliver much needed funds and services.

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Sustainability feature

Making its sustainable Break Muffin Break has been quietly building a sustainable legacy for the past 32 years. The family owned and operated business shares its sustainable ethos and how it intends to normalise sustainable practices in the communities it serves.

ince 1989, Muffin Break has been serving Australians with wholesome muffin recipes and quality coffee, but it’s also had a sustainable backbone that continues to drive the business and its franchise partners to do more for the environment. “We’ve had a sustainable focus from day one, with us being the first to have crockery in food courts in shopping centres,” says Natalie Brennan, General Manager of Muffin Break, part of the Foodco Group. “We are clear on who we are and why we’re here, but what we never wanted to be was harmful to the communities we’re in.” Muffin Break has made its success by positioning stores in shopping centres and areas of high foot traffic with traditional dine-in facilities. But when other quick service restaurant competitors started serving takeaway only, Muffin Break kept its crockery as a point of difference. It ensured all takeaway bags and boxes were made from 100 per cent recycled material. Five to six years ago, Natalie watched Muffin Break’s takeaway cup orders increase significantly. Questioning how to meet such demand in the most sustainable way, her team was tasked with finding a solution. “At the time, we found that there were no large recycling companies investing in the correct recycling of single-use coffee cups because of the difficulty of removing the plastic film inside. We reviewed many variations. The issue was always that we had to take a collection of cups to a specific facility in specific areas to be treated correctly, and that was only if the shopping centres partnered with us,” Natalie says.

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Muffin Break’s Little Growers workshop teaches childen the value of sustainability.

The solution came when Muffin Break was introduced to a recycling program called Simply Cups, which was making its way into Australia with the technology to recycle single-use coffee cups. Impressed by its closed loop solution, Muffin Break partnered with Simply Cups, in which funds were allocated for every takeaway cup bought to help develop the solution to upcycle the cups. Before long, Erina Fair Shopping Centre in New South Wales became one of the first to install Simply Cups’ collection bins throughout the centre, including at the Muffin Break store. “One of the biggest problems customers have when trying to dispose of their coffee cup correctly is deciding which bin it goes in – recycling or waste? With Simply Cups, they collect the specially designed tubes and bins

themselves to ensure the cups are recycled effectively away from other waste streams,” Natalie says. “The cups are upcycled into new products like drink trays, garden beds and roadside kerbing. In future, the hope is that the recycled cups will be upcycled into building materials we use in store.” To date, Muffin Break has assisted Simply Cups in entering 35 shopping centres across Australia. Its single-use cups can also be disposed of at 7-Eleven stores, also a Simply Cups supporter. As a result, Muffin Break has helped divert more than 17.5 million cups from landfill. The Australian Financial Review even named Muffin Break as one of the Top 10 Most Sustainable Companies in 2019. In time, Natalie hopes Muffin Break can partner with more shopping

Powered by centre outlets to work towards clean waste streams. “All you need is one passionate advocate to get the system rolling,” Natalie says. “There is a bit of education and commitment involved, but if people know this solution is available and possible, then they’ll do better in their recycling habits and help resolve this landfill issue too.” Muffin Break’s efforts don’t stop there. When it discovered its black takeaway lids were not visibly recognised by laser sorters at recycling centres, it didn’t hesitate in changing its lids to white ones so it could be recycled properly. “Then we thought, ‘do we even need a lid?’ We had our franchise partners ask their customers if they really needed one. Just by asking, we’ve significantly cut our lid consumption,” Natalie says. Going one step further, prior to 2020, Muffin Break got rid of all its single-use plastic, including cutlery, stirrers, takeaway bags, and straws. Now it only uses bamboo cutlery and paper straws. Post-COVID-19, cutlery and serving trays are only provided if asked for, helping to reduce unnecessary packaging even further. Muffin Break has also been a reusable cup advocate since 2012, incentivising customers with a discount on their coffee order if they used a KeepCup. For those who still use takeaway cups, Muffin Break recently made a design change which will save another 35 tonnes of paper. In taking a top-end approach to sustainability, Muffin Break encourages the consumption of plant-based milks. In 2012, Muffin Break introduced no charge for soy milk and that policy has continued through the introduction of all the other plant-based or alternative milks. “By using more plant-based milks we’re also reducing carbon emissions. Currently, 17 per cent of our coffee served are with non-dairy milks. For those that enjoy plant-based milks, we don’t want those customers to be disadvantaged by a price difference,” Natalie says. “Our sustainable ethos is definitely a point of difference. No longer is having good coffee enough, conscious customers are looking for more. We think having a brand that’s committed to making sure your cups are disposed of properly is a pretty good incentive.” To help educate the next generation of sustainable consumers, Muffin Break hosts a children’s sustainability workshop called Little Growers. Kids are taught the value of sustainability and are invited to grow a plant in a takeaway coffee cup, filled with spent coffee grounds and potting mix. Hundreds of workshops

have been run over the past two years. Muffin Break is looking forward to new technology that will help recycle coffee grounds on a mass scale. “We’re always looking at what’s next,” Natalie says. “What can we do differently to improve the communities we work in and the earth we walk on?” On the retail side of the business, Jeremy Regan, Head of Coffee at Foodco Group, says Muffin Break has recently updated its capsule filling plant to accept aluminium capsules in place of plastic coffee capsules. This change will encourage customers to recycle their capsules in partnership with recycling company TerraCycle. “We don’t want to be collectors, we want to be recyclers, so we’re excited for

this new launch. It does cost us more to produce, but we know it’s the right thing to do,” Jeremy says. After 32 years of industry commitment, Muffin Break has its eyes on a sustainable future thanks to the 22 million customers it serves each year. With sheer people power and continual education, Natalie hopes Muffin Break can normalise sustainable practices and conversations with its customers. “We’re really proud of our story and the communities we’ve helped so far, but there’s more to be done,” Natalie says. “We can all contribute to a bigger collective change.” For more information, visit muffinbreak.com.au

Muffin Break has partnered with Simply Cups to assist in taking single use coffee cups out of landfill.

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Sustainability feature

Change, the Happy way Happy Happy Foods discusses what it means to be a climate responsible company, and how it’s committed to providing customers with the knowledge and tools to make the best decisions to address the global warming problem of our generation.

en years ago, a product was sought out because of its quality, taste, price and reputation. In today’s postCOVID world, as well as these hallmarks, there’s greater demand for product transparency, with consumer purchasing decisions made based on a company’s sustainable values. At Happy Happy Foods, creating a superior plant-based milk specifically for espresso-based beverages has always been top priority. Crafted for coffee to produce a smoother tasting latte, its products are considered a nutritionally and environmentally happier choice. Happy Happy Foods Cofounder Lloyd Smith is a passionate environmental advocate. He says the coffee industry’s sharp rise in plant-based milk consumers over the past few years is in one part due to health and dietbased reasons, but also because of its reduced environmental impact without compromising on taste. “There has been a significant shift since 2014. At first, plant-based milks represented only about 10 per cent of coffee sales. Nowadays, plant-based

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milks account for as much as 45 per cent of all coffees sold. That’s massive growth,” Lloyd says. He notes that the world is facing a climate emergency and that as a society, we need to consider the environmental consequence of every decision we make. “Livestock farming, including the production of dairy milk, contributes 21 per cent of total greenhouse gas emissions. Shifting to a predominantly plantbased diet is a key part of the climate solution,” Lloyd says. “We can never underestimate, on an individual level, how we can contribute to making a change. The hospitality industry needs to lead the way in establishing sustainable practices and influencing consumer behaviour.” One such step for Happy Happy Foods has been generating awareness about the carbon footprints of both individuals and businesses. This past year, the team has focused on introducing climate labelling on its products and achieving carbon neutral status for its products and people. With a commitment to “measure, reduce, and offset”, Happy Happy Foods worked with independent emissions

consultant CarbonCloud to conduct a carbon emissions assessment of its products. This includes each individual step of the process from seed to cup: the emissions produced by the cultivation of its raw materials, transportation, manufacture, and distribution. Happy Happy Soy Boy’s climate footprint in Australia and New Zealand is 0.60 kilograms of carbon dioxide emissions per kilogram, a figure that is now displayed on its carton packaging. “The environment deserves the right to a seat at the boardroom. We know our product has a carbon emissions footprint, and we want to start a conversation about it. Progress can only be made when we fully embrace the challenge of transparency and accountability for a greener future,” Lloyd says. Each Happy Happy Foods’ employee also completes an annual independent assessment of their daily activities to measure their individual climate footprint. This holistic evaluation includes but is not limited to, their mode of transport to and from work, use of electricity and personal holidays. This exercise serves to educate the team on areas for

“LIVESTOCK FARMING, INCLUDING THE PRODUCTION OF DAIRY MILK, CONTRIBUTES 21 PER CENT OF TOTAL GREENHOUSE GAS EMISSIONS. SHIFTING TO A PREDOMINANTLY PLANT-BASED DIET IS A KEY PART OF THE CLIMATE SOLUTION.”

improvement, and any emissions that cannot be reduced are then offset in accordance with the company’s initiative to “measure, reduce and offset”. Happy Happy Foods purchases carbon credits to offset all its generated emissions. These credits support the Bundled Renewable Wind Power Project in the Rajasthan region of India. This program meets United Nations sustainable development goals and has so far provided 59.4 MegaWatts of renewable energy. Replacing energy from burning fossil fuels, turbines offset 102,870 tonnes of greenhouse gas emissions annually. “Our mission is to make plantbased foods and beverages tastier, fun, more mainstream, and better for the environment than the products of the generation before us,” Lloyd says. Happy Happy Foods Director John Cruse notes “that for a product to truly benefit the environment, it must be nutritionally as good as, if not better than, the product it is replacing”. “Our business mission is to continue to develop plant-based options that replace traditional products with an aim to help consumers reduce their climate impact, without ever having to compromise on quality or taste,” he says.

This July, Happy Happy Foods will release a limited edition pack that features a shocking visual representation of the average global temperature pattern over the past 100 years. The chart is a stark reminder of the urgency of the worsening climate situation. Happy Happy Foods hopes to highlight the need to take action in order to start reversing the global warming trajectory. “Climate change is the most critical

problem of our generation, and we want to be part of the solution,” Lloyd says. “If we can introduce more people to sustainable and environmentally conscious products, it’s going to help others reduce their impact, and we’ll genuinely be happier for it.” For more information, visit www.eatdrinkhappyhappy.com/ climate-happy

Happy Happy Soy Boy’s climate footprint will soon be displayed on its carton packaging.

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Sustainability feature

Sttoked for sustainability The Australian designed Sttoke reusable cup is made for a community and industry that values quality, performance, and aesthetics when it comes to their coffee and reducing waste.

ost people want to make choices that are better for the planet, but often those decisions come at the cost of quality or convenience. In 2017, the ABC’s War on Waste brought attention to the millions of disposable coffee cups going to landfill every day, which inspired many viewers to pick up a reusable cup. However, remembering to clean the cup, take it each time to get a coffee, and carry it around until they got home, meant a lot of those cups weren’t reused. Antony de Fina, Head of Sttoke Australia, says sitting down at a café and drinking from a heat-stable ceramic cup is an experience no plastic or paper takeaway cup on the market could match. So, if reusables cups couldn’t compete with disposables in terms of convenience, they would have to on quality. Released in 2018, Sttoke cups use a German-engineered Greblon waterbased ceramic lining with a high food grade 18/8 stainless-steel body, built to be shatterproof and preserve the heat and quality of a coffee, like it would in a café setting. “This industry has always focused on improving the sit-down café experience, and takeaway coffee was always an afterthought to that. That’s something we set out to change,” Antony says. “Sttoke was the first reusable cup with a ceramic lining and using it is like drinking out of a ceramic cup in a café. You don’t get the same tainted flavour or aftertaste you do

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from plastic or metal cups.” The Australian coffee community has warmly received Sttoke over the years, which has in turn given back to the industry too, sponsoring the 2020 Australian Brewers Cup among other initiatives. Industry veteran and current Sales Director South Asia for Hemro Group, Ross Quail, hosted and spoke at the Sttoke launch party in Melbourne three years ago. He tells BeanScene

it’s clear Sttoke was made with the Australian coffee consumer in mind. “Melbourne in particular’s adoption of quality coffee and products has made it a leading coffee market and thought leader around the world,” Ross says. “When Sttoke came out, it met the needs of sustainably minded coffee drinkers while uniquely reflecting the reverence we had for coffee in this country. It was a perfect addition to our daily coffee lives.”

Sttoke cups use a German-engineered Greblon water-based ceramic lining to preserve the flavour of coffee.

Powered by This respect for coffee carries through to the aesthetic design of the cup. Its lightweight build and slight contours towards the top of the cup make it ergonomic – fitting well in a hand or cup holder – while improving the flow of coffee while sipped through the spill-proof lid. “The Sttoke cup is just beautiful. It even felt great taking it into a café. People would stop me and say ‘this cup is beautiful, where’d you get it?’” Ross says. “The look and visual appeal of the cup is what strikes you first about Sttoke – it’s contemporary, sleek, and modern, but more than anything, it’s the practical aspects of the design that are really the clincher.” If Australia wants to keep calling itself a world leading coffee country, Ross says the industry is going to need to embrace sustainability. “What we do here filters to many other countries, so we have a responsibility to promote the right message,” he says. “Using a premium cup like Sttoke, saying single-use is not for us, is a fantastic way to do that while still enjoying our coffee with quality and style.” Artificer Coffee in Surrey Hills was the first New South Wales café to stock Sttoke cups. Co-owner Daniel Yee says Artificer Coffee has earned a reputation for its meticulous coffee selection, roasting, and brewing, so the products it sells at the coffee bar need to match that quality. “We don’t offer another [reusable cup] brand, except our own custom hand-made ceramic mugs,” Daniel says. “We held off for quite a while on offering a commercially available reusable cup as we simply didn’t like any of the other options out there and didn’t want our name on them. When we got [the Sttoke cups] in, they sold by the box-load because our customers trust us. We don’t offer anything in our shop that we don’t stand by and they know it. If we like something, generally they will too.” The main drawcard for Artificer Coffee was Sttoke’s ceramic coating which could preserve the flavour of its coffee. Daniel says his customers also give positive feedback on how Sttoke can retain temperature and the visual appeal of the cup. “I think if people invest or spend a bit more on a quality item, they are more likely to use it and take care of it over a longer period of time,” he says. “The irony with all the reusable cups out there is that people often buy them like shopping for fast fashion and end up with a drawer full of them. [That’s] great for sales but detracts from the point of trying to reduce waste.” Prior to COVID-19, Daniel estimates

A high food grade 18/8 stainlesssteel body preserves heat and makes Sttoke practically shatterproof.

that up to a quarter of Artificer Coffee customers were using reusable cups. After the pandemic caused a slump due to safety concerns, he says it has returned to about 8 to 15 per cent of customers per day and is gaining weekly. “With all the ‘hype’ around moving to a reusable cup, people have become more aware of the need to reduce their wastage where they can,” Daniel says. “There was a lot of momentum before COVID to use reusable cups and that needs to gain traction once again… I don’t actually believe reusable cups are the ‘silver bullet’ in solving the wastage issues of disposable cups, but they are a step in moving forward and changing the habits and sins of our past.” Sttoke’s Antony confirms there was a lull in sales for reusable cups in 2020, but Sttoke has bounced back quickly in 2021, with people realising how much waste disposables have generated over the last year. “We’ve always got new colours, designs, and products coming out to meet the wants and needs of customers

looking for a reusable they will actually use again,” Antony says. “We’ve introduced a little sustainability kit with a metal straw to use with their Sttoke Cup and have a new range of colours coming out in the lead up towards Christmas.” Sttoke is also in the process of attaining B Corp and Climate Neutral certification to provide another level of reassurance that using a Sttoke cup is the right thing to do. “It’s not enough for us to just create a reusable cup and put it out there if it will still one day end up in landfill. Sttoke has thought ahead to the end of life of their cups and ensured they’re fully recyclable,” Antony says. “Demand for reusables is only going to grow stronger as people become more aware of how they can contribute, reduce single usage, and improve their carbon footprint.” For more information, visit www.sttoke.com.au or email sttoke@casaespresso.com.au

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TECHNOLOGY PROFILE

Now and beyond La Marzocco’s annual roaster market survey highlights key areas for attention and growth, and explores what roasters really want.

La Marzocco will start holding educational training sessions to educate baristas on coffee excellence.

or many roasters, 2020 was a year of challenges and display of resilience. For others, it was a year of reflection and learnings with the opportunity to refine their focus and strengthen their market position. To better understand how businesses have evolved and where their focus now lies, espresso machine manufacturer and service partner La Marzocco Australia conducted its second annual coffee roaster survey in collaboration with strategic partner Trout Creative Thinking. The survey started as a means for La Marzocco to listen directly to the needs of roasters and has continued as a means to develop new products and services that can help the industry progress in the best way possible. One of the most prominent discoveries from the report, completed at the end of 2020, was the collective rise of the home consumer. Of the more than 200 roasters surveyed, 58 per cent said that retail and subscription services made a significant contribution to their sales last year. Many roasters used 2020 as an opportunity to enhance their online experience, improve dispatch processes, increase digital marketing budgets, and offer free shipping incentives and bundled products, all targeting home coffee drinkers.

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“The demand and growth of home coffee subscriptions and machinery is still continuing. People are not travelling internationally, they want to fit-out their home or office space with coffee equipment and support local roasters. This idea of the ‘home coffee consumer’ is a significant lifestyle shift driven by the lack of dine-in options and people being forced to work from home during the pandemic,” says La Marzocco Australia Brand Director Andy Di Donato. “All the roasters we’ve spoken with have said they committed to becoming a consumer-facing brand last year with the purpose of diversification and brand presence extension, and it’s a strategy we expect to continue.” One roaster saw a 300 per cent increase in their online coffee sales, which Andy says is a testament to the customer experience they created. “For that reason, I think people will continue to source and invest in boutique options, and roasters will continue to diversify with their beans and accessories, such as access to more training and education,” he says. Andy adds that roasters who invest the time and skill to market educational material will reap the benefits in a competitive market. To assist, La Marzocco Home is committed to supporting roasters with equipment, training, coffee

education, and sales guidance to effectively target home consumers. Demand for high quality servicing was identified as another key learning. With suburban and regional cafés experiencing increased volumes last year, and demand expected to continue outside of CBDs, roasters are faced with the logistical challenge of maintaining machinery across a broader geography. Since La Marzocco partnered with machinery service company Brewtech in December 2019, there has been strong demand for its end-to-end service solution. Brewtech is the only service company in Australia to exclusively specialise in La Marzocco machines. La Marzocco Australia General Manager Barry Moore says the industry first, technical service initiative, shows the company’s commitment to supporting machine longevity. “The natural evolution of our business model means we not only import, test and dispatch our machines, but can install and provide premium service. This is done with Brewtech’s highly trained team and 100 per cent genuine parts, to exacting standards, 365 days a year to both our commercial and home customers,” Barry says. “Other than supporting our customers, we are also able to provide real time feedback to our factory team in Florence on any issues. This way, we can keep incrementally fine tuning our machines, and importantly, provide deep insights of the challenges baristas, café owners, and roasters experience. This ensures we are developing the right products for the future – a fundamental hallmark of the La Marzocco mission. Brewtech Founder Craig Milton adds that the partnership with La Marzocco has allowed the business to expand its network and assist venues by servicing more machines in record response times. “Together with La Marzocco, we are offering our services to more customers, and helping Australia’s coffee industry, and the broader hospitality sector, get back on its feet,” Craig says. La Marzocco offers subscriptionbased servicing and individual call-out

servicing through Brewtech in Victoria, New South Wales, and Queensland. Brewtech also provides coffee accessories, complete installation and set-up of coffee stations, and staff training. According to La Marzocco Marketing Manager Jets Langlands, café owners want three things: “efficient, uninterrupted service; happy baristas; and consistently delicious coffee”. Any innovations that help speed up service in cafés, are ergonomic improvements for baristas, and creates a better customer experiences and bottom line for the venue of roasters, has a worthy place in the market. “La Marzocco has a suite of machines that celebrate technical innovation and are designed to help improve the performance of a barista. The Linea PB is one such iconic machine, as is the KB90, which has changed baristas’ lives with its market-leading ergonomics and straight-in portafilter. La Marzocco coffee machines can also offer cool touch steam wands to prevent burns. It’s these features that give us a competition edge in the market,” Jets says. To ensure roasters educate their customers on how to best use La Marzocco equipment, the manufacturer will run educational sessions in each state with

Brewtech is the only service company in Australia to exclusively specialise in La Marzocco machines.

baristas, technicians, and sales teams. It’s hoped the sessions will promote coffee excellence and prevent strains and workplace accidents. La Marzocco’s digital platform is also accessible with educational coverage to suit all levels of skill. Another key finding from the survey was the trend towards off-the-shelf customisation. With 50 per cent of established coffee roasters only buying new equipment, each is looking for a point of difference. More cafés are investing in customised machine colour or painted panels to reflect the café environment, finishing texture, and adding branded elements or product features. “As the market becomes more competitive, café owners want to give customers a reason to come into their café over others. Consistent coffee quality is important, but so is giving the customer a holistic experience beyond food and beverage. It’s about café design, music, the barista’s interaction and having a memorable coffee experience. That’s why personalisation of equipment is becoming so important,” Andy says. Australian roasters are also demanding more training. In the survey, three in four coffee roasters – from market leaders to newcomers – identified a need for more

information about training, with 36 per cent wanting new product demonstrations. As a result of shifting consumer habits, roasters are spending valuable time training team members and educating an influx of home customers about correct coffee-making techniques. This has triggered a rapid shift in business focus, with the needs of retail customers noticeably different to wholesale customers. “Our customers want to learn and so do their customers,” Jets says. “The question is how we pass on our knowledge to roasters, and then onto the home user.” To start, La Marzocco will share online training resources for machine usability, troubleshooting and maintenance for its partners later this year. Jets adds that it’s also important La Marzocco remains conscious of all factors when addressing which coffee machine would suit the personal needs of its customers. Financing solutions and business guidance for the future is another key topic on roasters’ minds, with 50 per cent wanting more tangible business advice and information about La Marzocco financing options. Forty-two per cent said they currently used financing to purchase machinery. “The cost of purchasing machines continues to be one of the largest barriers to expansion for roasters,” Andy says. “Some are reconsidering supplying machinery with coffee bean contracts and instead passing in the cost of machines to their customers.” La Marzocco offers rent-to-own financing for all commercial machines on two, three, and four-year contracts. There’s no cumulative interest and customers can decide to keep the machine or sell it back at the end of the payment period. It even offers a buy now, pay later system via Zip Money for its home machines. The key insights presented in the La Marzocco annual survey are intended to provide a valuable body of work to engage with customers and continue to determine what they need to be a healthy, sustainable business in this “new normal world”. “The very high standards and sophistication of our market continues to drive innovation, but the survey has clearly shown us what roasters see value in, and what they need in terms of support,” Jets says. “We recognise our responsibility in helping progress the industry forward and see how our role is evolving to deliver what the market needs now, and in the years to come.” For more information on how La Marzocco Australia can support your business, visit www.lamarzocco.com.au or contact sales. australia@lamarzocco.com

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TECHNOLOGY PROFILE

A commune collaboration When it comes to purchasing roasting equipment, speed and consistency are one thing, but environmental considerations are another. BeanScene speaks to The Coffee Commune Founder Phillip Di Bella about his longstanding relationship with IMF roasters and the importance of sustainable roasting solutions.

he first question Phillip Di Bella asks when he starts his day, is “how can I help?” The Founder and Managing Director of The Coffee Commune in Bowen Hills, Queensland, says for him, success is measured by how many people he can help accelerate their potential. “My whole brand promise and purpose is to see people grow and get them from where they are, to where they want to be,” Phillip says. “So, each day I ask myself: how can I help a coffee enthusiast, barista, café owner, roaster, or supplier?” With the impetus to help grow more businesses, Phillip launched The

Unlike conventional roasters, IMF roasters use only one burner chamber.

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Coffee Commune in March 2021. The 2000-square-metre facility is worth an estimated $20 million, including a green bean warehouse, shared roasting facility, and packaging machines, with the mission to help coffee businesses become more efficient, profitable, and sustainable. Since its opening, The Coffee Commune has gained 95 members and welcomed seven start-up businesses. Phillip says because The Coffee Commune is a welcome facility to all its members, and not a rival coffee brand, there is no threat of competition. As such, customers are discovering the shared facility as a means to kick-start their business without rent or infrastructure

Phillip Di Bella, Founder of The Coffee Commune in Queensland.

costs or work more economically in this post-COVID world. “COVID had a definite impact on business structures. Everyone is now looking at how they can be more efficient. Some customers know exactly what they want to produce, so they come in, put their blends together, and go,” Phillip says. “The benefit is that the roaster gets to spend more time with their customers, which is huge. The ability to differentiate through your product is now limited. The focus has gone back to relationships.” As a result of demand, Phillip has ordered a 240-kilogram IMF roaster in addition to the one 240-kilogram roaster he had already bought through IMF Australasian agent Roastquip. To give an example of scale, Phillip says one product produced in The Coffee Commune was released in more than 700 venues during April. “This is a model we can replicate. We could potentially have about 100 roasters working out of here,” Phillip says. “The Coffee Commune is not just a contract roasting facility. You don’t have to buy your green beans from here, you can just be a member and bring your own green beans, roast and pack yourself, or we can do it for you. Everything is bespoke and priced accordingly to maximise each business.” Members can access The Coffee Commune’s variety of roasters, ranging from one-kilogram all the way to IMF’s 240-kilogram roasters.

IMF’s 240-kilogram roaster features Recirculating Heat Technology to help reduce carbon emissions.

“Ninety per cent of roasters in Australia roast less than one tonne per week, and roast on a seven-to-15-kilogram machine, so they’re spending four to five days roasting coffee. What that means, is that if they come here to The Coffee Commune, they can roast that same volume in one hour – either by themselves or with our assistance,” Phillip says. Phillip learned to roast coffee as a 17-year-old using Petroncini equipment. As young roaster, Phillip was lucky enough to meet Petroncini sales engineer Dr Roberto Zanetti, and years later again, when Phillip was researching new roasting equipment. While visiting the biannual Host Milan expo in Italy, Phillip ran into Roberto again, but this time on the IMF stand along with IMF Owner Alessandro Garbin. “We got talking, he was telling me about IMF and its technology, and I told him I wanted to give the roaster a go. I became one of the first customers to buy and bring an IMF roaster into Australia,” Phillip says. “Over the past 10 years, I’ve bought seven IMF roasters, including three 240-kilogram models, and one 60-kilogram for our New York site. I just love their design, uniqueness, and state-of-the-art technology. It is at least 30 per cent more efficient in terms of gas consumption, and its footprint is a lot smaller compared to other models.”

IMF’s roasters incorporate the afterburner, loader, and destoner all in one compact unit. No separate afterburner is required. It uses its exclusive Vortex and Equaliser roasting technology to roast the coffee with precision and consistency. The reason for its reduced emissions is thanks to IMF’s Recirculating Heat Technology, which it pioneered and has manufactured for more than 25 years. Unlike conventional roasters that use a burner for the roaster and a separate burner (afterburner) to treat the emissions, IMF roasters use only one burner chamber that sits to the side of the roaster. As the coffee is roasted, emissions leave the drum via a steel duct into the burner chamber to incinerate and purify the hot air. Some of the clean heat in the burner chamber, which would otherwise be released into the atmosphere, is re-circulated via a stainless steel duct back into the drum. Ambient air is mixed into the duct electronically to reduce the heat to the required temperature to heat the beans for roasting, and the cycle starts again. Roastquip Director Will Notaras says climate change is “everyone’s responsibility”. “Not only does the IMF roaster reduce greenhouse gases into the atmosphere, it saves roasting companies enormous amounts of money in energy costs, so it’s a win-win situation,” he says. Will adds that over the years, IMF

roasters have been upgraded with advanced features to the high demands of Australian roasters. “We never stop developing our roasting equipment and we listen to our customers’ feedback,” he says. Roastquip have now installed more than 70 IMF plants, making it one of the biggest selling roasters throughout Australasia. The other advantage of sourcing IMF roasters through Roastquip is that it means the roaster has surpassed all Australian Gas Association gas regulations, as well as the electrical and emission requirements to meet Australian standards. “Government and council regulations change all the time, so we’re lucky our IMF roaster already ticks all the boxes – and that’s even with us being so close to town, just one kilometre from the city. It’s the machine you want if you need to get council and government approval done quicker. Roastquip has done all the hard work for you,” Phillip says. “Environmental sustainability is very important to us, as is minimal gas consumption. It’s almost impossible to not have this in mind when looking to install a new roaster. And when you’re running many roasters at once, we need to ensure we’re using the most efficient machine with the least possible volume of gas, and the bonus is that it’s also more efficient in terms of operation costs.” Installation of the IMF 240-kilogram roaster with silo attached was an operation of its own. The Italian-made machine from Occhiobello, which arrives fully assembled, was carefully rolled into The Coffee Commune through its large roller doors and forklift. Will came up to monitor the installation, and the set-up was straight forward with the Italian engineers able to configure the roaster and silos remotely due to COVID-19 restrictions. “It’s a brand we know so well, and one we trust completely. The Italian team are accessible if you need any support and we’re so happy with it that we’re getting another 240-kilogram in soon,” Phillip says. The Coffee Commune is only in its infancy, yet Phillip says he couldn’t have asked for a better start. “To have a vision is one thing, but to see it roll out and come to fruition is another,” Phillip says. “What we’re trying to build is an ecosystem. The amount of people engaging with us is phenomenal, and we only hope it continues.” For more information on Roastquip and IMF roasters, visit www.roastquip.com.au For more on The Coffee Commune, visit www.coffeecommune.com.au

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TECHNOLOGY PROFILE

Gary goes Pro Restaurateur and former MasterChef judge Gary Mehigan spent a decade encouraging home cooks to follow their culinary dreams, and now he is living his own as a passionate home barista and the ambassador of the Rancilio Silvia Pro espresso machine. Gary Mehigan says the Rancilio Silvia Pro is an ideal solution for a reliable, handmade Italian commercial espresso machine at home.

he first thing Gary Mehigan does when he wakes up in the morning is turn the kettle on, draw the blinds, and power up his Rancilio Silvia Pro. In the four to five minutes it takes to strain a tea for his wife Mandy, he’s also made himself the first coffee of the day. His second is made in the company of BeanScene magazine. Using a Rocky grinder, Gary dispenses 19 grams of his own Dawn Kickstarter blend, made in collaboration with Veneziano Coffee Roasters. He weighs the shot on a set of scales and extracts 33 millilitres of liquid gold. With pure focus, Gary textures silky milk foam and makes no apologies for his “abstract squiggle” latte art. “The more you make coffee at home

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the more pressure you put on yourself to perfect it. I was quite prepared to make you another if I didn’t get the milk right. And that’s not because it’s for [BeanScene], but because there’s no point in drinking bad coffee. In fact, I usually don’t make coffee for anyone else, so to receive a ‘Gary coffee’ is a special occasion,” he says. The former MasterChef judge, restaurateur, podcast host and coffee lover has been an “accidental fan” of Rancilio coffee machines since the day his wife bought him his Rancilio Lucy espresso machine more than 17 years ago. Gary worships that machine, which is still going strong at his peninsula property. “The biggest difference between the Lucy and the new Silvia Pro is the ease of operation. With the Lucy, it’s a single

boiler machine, so I just have to pay more attention to it and go through a specific process to make the coffee. Thanks to the dual boiler on the Silvia Pro, I can draw a shot of espresso and steam the milk at the same time. It even has a timer and in-built proportional integral derivative (PID) controllers keeping the temperature stable, so I know if it reads 98°C, it is 98°C,” Gary says. The Silvia Pro is the first major model release to hit the market since Moffat Group and Rancilio Group partnered in late 2020 to form Rancilio Group Australasia. A strategic focus for the partnership has been developing the Rancilio portfolio of products, with the Silvia Pro leading the way. This machine is designed to deliver the same high

quality shot as its predecessor, with the addition of an independent steam boiler, and a dual PID and shot timer to consistently control the now dual boilers. It also has a commercial steam wand to deliver maximum steam power while simultaneously brewing consistent shots of espresso. With Gary already an avid Rancilio user, he says it was a natural alignment to become the Australasia ambassador for the new Silvia Pro domestic coffee machine. “I don’t put my name to anything I don’t believe in. People are very savvy and see through anything fake, especially in foodie circles on social media. People want honesty and trust,” Gary says. “When I tell my audience the Silvia Pro is a great machine, it’s because I genuinely believe that it’s a worthwhile investment that makes as good, if not better coffee, than your local café. Why? Because it’s yours. You make it just how you like it – with your favourite beans, preferred milk, and set temperature.” Paul O’Brien, General Manager of Rancilio Australasia says the moment he spoke to Gary about a potential partnership, he was given a lesson in Rancilio he didn’t expect. “Gary was telling me about Rancilio, not the other way around. He is a coffee person and a Rancilio user first and foremost. He’s passionate and authentic about wanting to show people that anyone can make great coffee at home,” he says. “I was so impressed that he’d be using a Rancilio Lucy for some 17 years, but that’s just a testament to the brand, which is humble and focused on performance, reliability, longevity, and producing quality-driven products. I get calls all the time about passionate users who have had their Rancilio machines for decades. I had one guy on the phone this morning telling me he had a Rancilio S9 machine for 35 years. He almost cried when I told him he couldn’t get parts for it anymore.” Rancilio, like many coffee machine manufacturers last year, experienced a significant rise in domestic uptake. To its credit, production in Italy never stopped. Paul says espresso machines like the Rancilio Silvia V6 and Pro flew out the door, with the original Silvia still considered Rancilio’s “top-selling domestic espresso machine ever”. “People bought a lot of different consumer machines during COVID, many hovering around the $1000 mark, but I want consumers to know that for less than $1500, you can buy a reliable Rancilio Rocky grinder and a fair dinkum handmade Italian made commercial espresso machine, which we know can literally last 20 years,” Paul says.

“Buying a Rancilio commercial model for home is a small investment that pays itself off in just a year and a half when you think of the money spent purchasing one or two coffee each day. For a little more, it’s accessible to have this iconic Italian brand in your own home or office kitchen.” Gary needed no convincing. During lockdown he deep-dove into the coffee world, watching former World Barista Championship performances, working on his latte art, and perfecting his espresso extraction. He says, if anything, his devotion has raised expectations when he ventures outside to a café.

five minutes thinking about the day ahead, enjoy my coffee, then off I’d go.” While Gary is now satisfied with having his morning coffee at home with his Rancilio Silvia Pro. He says post-COVID, there’s plenty of opportunities for cafés and at-home consumption to co-exist. “Some people will continue to enjoy the ritual of making coffee at home and some will like the balance of going out. Domestic tourism is going through the roof – people want to go out and wine and dine,” he says. “The great thing about Melbourne is

The Rancilio Silvia Pro features a dual boiler, timer, PID controllers and a commercial steam wand.

“In terms of pure coffee, I think I make myself a better coffee then I get anywhere else. I’m a lot more pedantic about my coffee preparation, but there’s also a certain pleasure attached to the ritual. As a chef, I like the ceremony of things, and when it doesn’t work out, it really winds me up,” he says. Before lockdown, Gary was a firm believer in “savouring” the coffee moment. Rather than buying a takeaway coffee out of convenience, he would always insist on having his coffee in-store. “One of the drivers behind that was because of the high volume of disposable single-use coffee cups, and also because I think you appreciate the coffee and enjoy the experience more,” he says. “If I was working on the set of MasterChef, I used to leave the house at 6.30am, drive out of the garage and down the road to a local café, pull over, and sit at the coffee bar. I’d spent

that we have some incredible roasters, including Veneziano, whom I’m loyal to, and have loved for years. To me, a proper Melbourne roasted coffee is one with strength and fruity characteristics. When I get my freshly roasted Veneziano coffee, and the delivery date is just right, there’s nothing better than running it through my Rancilio machine.”. And when he does, Gary’s Instagram followers know it. His latest post included an extraction from a bottomless portafilter which he shot on the floor trying to get the right angle, alongside his breakfast of crusty bread and a five-minute boiled egg. As one fan described, “that, is the breakfast, of champions”, and Gary agrees. For more information, visit www.ranciliogroup.com.au/ rancilio-silvia-pro

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CAFÉ SCENE

The café’s design is inspired by the idea of balance and juxtaposition.

DANDELION & DRIFTWOOD 20 Doncaster Street, Hendra, Queensland 4011 Open daily 7am to 4pm (07) 3667 8388 When Penny and Peter Wolff opened the original Dandelion & Driftwood more than one decade ago, it provided something new to the suburb of Hendra in Queensland. “We offered full table service, were detail driven with tasting cards for every coffee that went out, and had a massive range of coffees and brew styles on offer. It’s more common now, but was quite radical 11 years ago and helped drive suburban café culture in Brisbane,” Penny says. While the original café closed its doors in 2018, Dandelion & Driftwood continued its life with a new location at Brisbane International Airport. However, with COVID-19 bringing international travel to a halt last year, Peter and Penny decided it was time to bring the café home, reopening Dandelion & Driftwood at a new site in Hendra in February. “The community support we’ve

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seen has been amazing. It’s shown the longevity of Dandelion & Driftwood, with people coming in who used to visit the first shop, not realising we’d continued at the airport,” Penny says. “People are quite taken by the new look and feel of the place. We have more space for one, which allows us the opportunity to have a bigger offering as well.” Dandelion & Driftwood has introduced a wine, craft beer, and cocktail list to its already impressive coffee, breakfast, lunch, and high tea offering. “Our beverage list has evolved over time and is now quite extensive, with about 21 teas, many we’ve never had before. Being able to introduce a cocktail and wine lists as well is super exciting,” Penny says. From its café design to menu creation, Dandelion & Driftwood is inspired by the idea of balance and juxtaposition. For example, the design combines old-school charm and influences with modern twists, textures, and furnishings. “What has always been of interest to customers is the elements of Dandelion & Driftwood that make the brand unique. We want to ensure that when you walk

into the café, there’s a feeling of comfort and you fall in love with the space, setting customers up for a great experience, because it’s visually appealing yet homely,” Penny says. The name Dandelion & Driftwood evokes the idea of femininity and masculinity, which carries through everything from the menu to service and coffee offering. The café offers two house blends: the delicate, bright, and fruity Dandelion Blend and heavy, robust, and earthy Driftwood Blend. “Having tasted a lot of coffee and with Pete’s 35 years of experience in the industry, we know not one coffee will suit everybody,” Penny says. “If you come in a group, it’s likely some will enjoy Dandelion, others will prefer the Driftwood blend, and some will only be interested in the single origins available. We offer tasting flights of espresso and piccolos, so if a customer is undecided or wants to know the difference, they can put them side by side and taste it for themselves.” She adds this serves as a good starting point for the customer to explore different flavour profiles, developing their own palate, and understanding what kinds of coffee they enjoy. As they become more adventurous, they can consider ordering the different rotating single origins, prepared via a selection of different brew methods. “Eleven years ago, many customers didn’t understand there could be such a great variance of flavour, acidity, body and sweetness in coffee, but over the years customers have now become more discerning, they’re also more receptive of new experiences,” Penny says. “It’s been a lovely journey to see the Brisbane consumer come to understand coffee and I’m proud of the role Dandelion & Driftwood played in that history.”

Dandelion & Driftwood returned to Hendra in February 2021.

FRESCO-BAH 151 Pirie Street, Adelaide, South Australia 5000 Open Monday to Friday 6:30am to 4pm (08) 8359 2224 When it comes to running a café, Roger El-Awar has one simple philosophy: give the customers what they want. That maxim has served him well since opening his second Fresco-Bah on Pirie Street in September. “There’s about 1400 people working in the building and they were after something new and fresh,” Roger says. “Our café has a very homely, authentic kind of feel to it. We’ve got the ladies making fresh, home cooked meals and our menu changes pretty much every day. We back that up with fast service and great food and coffee.” The foyer-based original café on Pulteney Street doesn’t catch as much foot traffic as the new street facing site, but Roger was still able to build a large following that encouraged him to expand the business. “I was actually approached by customers at our other store that mentioned this space was vacated and asked me if I’d think about opening something in the spot. Because we have such a loyal clientele base at the first store, I decided to open a second rather than relocate,” he says. “We committed to this place just before COVID

Fresco-Bah focuses on fresh food, personal service, and great coffee.

hit, then afterwards, still made the decision to go ahead with it, but delayed the timing of opening by about six months. It was a bit of a gusty move, but it’s been rewarding and I definitely don’t regret it.” Fresco-Bah serves Crave from Veneziano Coffee Roasters for its house blend, alongside single origins for cold brew and black coffee. “Before I went ahead with Crave, we had a few tastings and decided we needed something strong, with the kick a lot of our corporate customers are after,” Roger says. “We’ve been partnered with Veneziano for the last two years and they’ve

HOMEBREW COFFEE 21 Victoria Street, Cambridge 3434, New Zealand Open Monday to Friday 6:30am to 3:30pm, Saturday 7am to 2pm When Blair and Tayler Paterson opened their first Homebrew Coffee bar in 2019, front of mind was creating an energetic, exciting, and inviting atmosphere. “When you come to Homebrew, it doesn’t just feel like you’re just here to get a coffee. You’re also here to hang out and catch up with friends,” Tayler says. Before relocating to New Zealand with Kiwi husband Blair, Tayler worked for Dutch Bros Coffee in the United States. The coffee chain’s focus on atmosphere, customers, and signature drinks all served as inspiration for Homebrew Coffee. “When we started the business, we knew the products we wanted to serve and feeling we wanted to create, but we didn’t have the skills to articulate that in the design,” Blair says. “We sat down with a good friend of ours, the owner of Designwell studio, who listened to what we wanted to achieve and visualised that in everything from our lightning bolt logo to an interior the conveys warmth, energy, excitement, and passion.” Homebrew offers a selection of treats and pastries from Volare bakery, but

Homebrew takes an inviting and exciting approach to introducing more people to the world of specialty coffee.

coffee is the core of the business, serving the Empire blend and single origins from Ozone Coffee Roasters. “We love the traditional drinks you’d find in the café, but also have a range of signature coffees that add a bit of flair,” Blair says. “The Caramel Kicker

been really good to us. Our rep Peter is very hands on, you call him, he’s there and will make things happen. They’ve also got a top of the range training facility at their warehouse in North Adelaide where the head trainer Mike [Wells] trains all of our staff. It’s all helped us grow our business.” Roger says he has enjoyed seeing people be receptive to the new café. “I had a vision with this café and completely changed the way the previous fit out looked,” he says. “I had a blank canvas to work with, put my ideas together and before you knew it, it all came into shape.”

is caramel-infused latte, served hot and iced, and is really popular in both forms throughout the year. The vanilla-infused White Lightning is another popular drink.” Early in 2021, Homebrew even introduced its own take on an energy drink, combining a green coffee bean extract (providing the caffeine) with a range of flavours and tossing it over soda water to create an entirely new type of beverage. “You get an amazing rush from the drink, like you would for a typical energy drink, but don’t get the same low afterwards once the drink wears off,” Blair says. “It’s a creative and fun way to tweak what you’d normally find in a coffee bar, it’s the ‘Homebrew’ way of making coffee.” Following the success of the Cambridge store, Homebrew was able to open a second location in Hamilton, sharing their unique take on coffee with even more of the community. “We’re both passionate about coffee, but we’re more passionate about people and our goal was to create a culture of warmth, lovingness, and generosity,” Tayler says. “Two years later, Homebrew represents a lot of those things to us. Every single day we come to work knowing we love what we do and excited about what the day will hold.”

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CAFÉ SCENE coffee as well, showing what we have on offer at the bar or coming up, which helps start the conversation and bring them in,” Harrison says. “People are interested in trying new things and really experiencing the coffee world much deeper than they may have before.” Espresso is prepared with a three-group La Marzocco KB90 machine and Mythos One grinder, with an additional Mahlkönig EK43 for the single origins. For its milk, Foster & Black uses dairy from Riverina Fresh to bring out the best of its shots. “We tasted a few different milks and found Riverina Fresh worked best with our coffees,” Harrison says. “We’ve got more of a lighter roast and the milk pairs with that really well without taking away from the coffee flavour. It’s also a delicious milk in its own right.” This approach of bringing specialty coffee to where it wasn’t has been well received by the shoppers of Doncaster. “It’s been a good couple of weeks. People appreciate what we’re doing and the coffee we’ve roasted,” Harrison says. “It’s all about pairing delicious coffee with genuine service. People come to us for a break in their day and are up for a chat and a nice coffee. That’s what’s working for us and what we’ll keep doing.”

Foster & Black opened its first Victorian coffee bar in April.

FOSTER & BLACK  619 Doncaster Road, Doncaster, Victoria 3108  Open Monday to Wednesday, Friday and Saturday 7am to 5:30pm, Thursday 7am to 9pm, Sunday 8am to 5pm

location at Westfield Doncaster Shopping Centre in April 2021. “We visited Melbourne a number of times and absolutely loved it here,” Harrison says. “We targeted the Westfield in Doncaster because we thought there was a gap in the market for providing good specialty coffee in such a commercial space. We’re competing with the big chains so we separate ourselves by providing a more boutique experience.” Foster & Black roasts its own coffee at its Fortitude Valley roastery, including a house blend and rotating single origins for black and filter coffee. “There’s been a lot of interest in our single origins. We have a shelf of retail

Andrew Foster and Harrison Black opened the first Foster & Black on the Sunshine Coast in 2015 with one goal: to share specialty coffee in unlikely places. Five years and six more coffee bars spread across south-east Queensland later, Harrison and his wife packed their bags and took the concept to the north-eastern suburbs of Melbourne. After a year of setbacks and lockdowns, Foster & Black opened its first Victorian

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DISTRICT BRASSERIE 2 Chifley Square, Sydney, New South Wales 2000 Open Monday 6:30am to 5pm, Tuesday to Friday 6:30am to 11pm (02) 9230 0900 District Brasserie in Sydney gives customers the best of both worlds. One end features an inhouse organic bakery and espresso bar for quick transactions with a casual seating space. At the other is an upscale restaurant with full a la carte service for breakfast, lunch, and dinner with an island bar. “You can get an espresso and housebaked pastry or organic sourdough Vegemite toast first thing in the morning, then come back and end your business deal or celebration late in the evening with a bottle of champagne,” says Owner John Vissaritis. “It really caters to that kind of corporate or CBD customer right from the start to end of the day as a one-stop food and beverage service – we even do take-home meals.” District Brasserie embraces a smoke and woodfire based cooking style, using an oven specially made for the site. The restaurant is renowned for its large, shared-format cuts of meat, particularly its Double Hanger. “A lot of people have called that cut a ‘religious meat experience’. It’s a very tender, flavoursome piece of meat that connect the animal’s diaphragm to its back, so it’s a muscle that doesn’t do a lot of work,” John says. “The one we get comes from a Wagyu breed. We cook that over wood charcoal and smoke it with applewood. It gets cooked whole, carved up, and presented on a big, beautiful platter with bearnaise, fresh chili, and horseradish cream, with a nice licking of beef fat vinaigrette.” District Brasserie’s Wagyu nine-plusmarbling-score 2GR tomahawk is also popular, bringing in many customers from out of town to experience up to

People travel from across NSW to experience District Brasserie’s prime cuts of meat.

District Brasserie is equal parts specialty coffee bar and high-end restaurant.

2.8 kilograms of pure meat. District Brasserie’s coffee offering has to match the quality of its meat, so the café has partnered with Single O since its opening. Two Ubermilks from Barista Group are also installed on the bar for the utmost service. “The Ubermilk is a complete and utter game changer. We’re looking at investing in a third Ubermilk just for almond milk,” John says. “It helps with labour, but that’s not our focus. Our focus is all about speed and consistency, and Ubermilk gives us those two elements. “We’ve still got the same number of baristas on, but there’s only so many people you can fit in a small space and the Ubermilk lets them get coffees out to customers that much quicker.” While COVID-19 was a hit to many city-based businesses, John says District Brasseries fared better than most. The many essential workers of its Chifley Square location kept the espresso bar flowing while the kitchen staff was redeployed for house-

run food and wine deliveries. “The liquor and gaming authority allowed us to start selling alcohol direct, so we were doing batch cocktails and put together a wine list using our stock,” John says. “Because people are very price savvy, we came up with a little formula where we would sell for $1 under Dan Murphy’s pricing and almost transformed into a little boutique wine business, topping up the cellars of Sydney’s CEOs and middle management.” Throughout COVID-19 restrictions, John also worked on a sister venue, Ruse Bar & Brasserie, which opened in December 2020. He says the pandemic presented a challenge, but it was one his team could overcome. “It showed a lot of tenacity from our staff and guests, because people stayed away from the city for many months. It built strength and camaraderie among people attending and working in the CBD during those tense and difficult times,” John says. “Today, District Brasserie is all the better for it.”

District Brasserie bakes its pastries and sourdough bread inhouse.

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WATER WORKS

Birgit Kohler is the Head of Organoleptic Department at BRITA.

Talking sense BRITA Head of Organoleptic Department Birgit Kohler

3. – on how BRITA’s sensory lab contributes to our can be perceptible in the taste of coffee understanding of water and coffee.

Organic substances include plasticizers, residues ater qualityagents has a and solvents, to answer a rather simple question. of plant protection but also massive influence on metabolites. In organoleptic natural substances like algae Organic testing, it is never about the qualitywater of youriscup a single person’s matter in drinking highly controlled. Manyperception. Instead, we of coffee. You can ruin work with specially trained groups of of these substances, such as pesticides, have very your favourite coffee testers, the so-called panellists. Anyone strict limit values. by choosing the wrong water, but you can who attends a testing has successfully Somethe of flavour these experience substances in taste also enhance by are perceptible completed extensive taste trainings and has even in tiny isprove geosmin – using the “right” water.quantities. One example to their sensory skills in recurring a natural algae metabolite which To achieve a consistent and perfect – tiny amounts counteroftests. water quality, you needan a good During these can produce earthy-musty taste reminiscent of panel meetings, the understanding of the water composition. panellists mainly taste water, but also tea beetroot. That’s why BRITA has a special and coffee. A beverage like water, which Many of these organic contaminants can arise as department dedicated to taste. seems to be not very spectacular at a off-flavours in water as well as coffee. Hence geoTaste is measurable and organoleptic first sip, offers an unexpected variety of smin is alsoscientific formedfield. in coffee beans when they are testing is a particular sensory experiences. incorrectly dried or if they are exposed to On the basis of more than 100 different Ourexcessive tastings and research are conducted (9) moisture in storage. standards for organoleptic testing, in a state-of-the-art sensory lab, inaugurated together with my team in the BRITA in 2015, which has been designed to allow Organoleptic Analysis Department, I us to work independently and effectively. choose a suitable methodology for every Artificial light and a minimal design EVEN WITH HIGH-QUALITY COFFEE BEANS, THE WRONG KIND OF WATER question that needs to be answered. keep the atmosphere neutral, ensuring CAN RISE TO UNWANTED TASTES TYPICAL OF COFFEE. Sometimes several methods are necessary our surroundings remain constant and

don’t influence how we perceive taste. The tasting room can accommodate up to 12 testers at once with testing booths adapted to suit each test, so we can work collaboratively without disrupting each other. The test results then flow into various projects and products at BRITA. Ultimately, the goal is to improve water’s taste, not just in theory but also in practice, because everyone should enjoy great flavours. This work builds our own understanding of water flavour and composition, as well as that of the wider community. With other departments of BRITA, the Organoleptic Analysis Department even helps produce educational material for the coffee and food industries. Some years ago, most people were neither aware of the sensory dimensions of coffee nor the impact of water on coffee.

SOME EXAMPLES OF ORGANIC COMPOUNDS IN WATER (10) SUBSTANCE

QUALITY

ODOUR THRESHOLD

ORIGIN

ß-Ionone

Violet-like, floral

7 ng/l

Cyanobacteria and Algae

Geosmin

Earthy, musty, like beetroot

3 ng/l

Cyanobacteria and Actinobacteria

Cis-3-Hexen-1-ol

Freshly mown grass

70 µg/l

Algae

ß-IONONE

GEOSMIN

CIS-3-HEXEN-1-OL

If unfiltered, water can contain small amounts of organic compounds that can influence coffee flavours.

beanscenemag.com.au MORE INFORMATIONEN BRITA GmbH

Sources 1. Lide, David R. Handbbook of Chemistry and physics. s.l. : CRC Press, 1998. 2. Violoni, M. Water for French press coffee - Big Sensory Test. Bresica : Centro Studi Assaggiatori; Luigi Odello, 2015.

Even small amounts of minerals and water treatment substances can influence coffee extraction.

But water for coffee has become more important within the past few years. We are on a journey. We still have some way to go, but we’re heading in the right direction. From my perspective, the future is in enabling more and more people to understand the effect of water on coffee. Even though it might seem complicated at first, in my experience, it’s a pretty easy introduction to chemistry. This is especially true for sensory-skilled people, because they can instantly taste the difference. There are three main parameters that impact the sensory of water: minerals, organic compounds, and substances from water treatment. Each also have a critical impact on the flavour of a coffee. • Minerals influence the coffee extraction and can interact with extracted substances. In my opinion, the most important factor for a good taste in coffee is the mineralisation of the water. Water without minerals (distilled water) extracts different substances from the coffee grounds compared to water with lots of minerals. The most important minerals occurring naturally in drinking water include calcium, magnesium, sodium, and potassium, as well as chloride, sulphate, and – most importantly – hydrogen carbonate. Depending on the overall mineral content in water, hydrogen carbonate is also called “carbonate hardness”, “buffer capacity”, or “alkalinity”. No matter which name, when there is a lot of hydrogen carbonate in the water, it influences extraction and reacts with the fine caffeic acids. The coffee can taste unbalanced and even flat. • Organic substances can be perceptible in the taste of coffee. Organic substances include plasticisers, residues of plant protection agents and solvents, but also natural substances like algae metabolites. Organic matter in drinking water is highly controlled and many of these substances, such as pesticides, have very

strict limit values. However, some of these substances are perceptible in taste even in tiny quantities. One example is geosmin, a natural algae metabolite, tiny amounts of which can produce an earthy-musty taste reminiscent of beetroot. Geosmin is also formed in coffee beans when they are incorrectly dried or if they are exposed to excessive moisture in storage. Many of these organic contaminants can arise as off-flavours in water as well as coffee. • Water treatment substances can influence extraction and become perceptible in coffee. Certain substances are deliberately added to treat water, for example, chemicals to eliminate clouding (turbidity) or chlorine for disinfection. Only a very small amount of chlorine is used in tap water but combining it with organic residues can give water an unpleasant odour and unpalatable taste. Depending on the binding partner, chlorine has different taste qualities and threshold values. If the water to be used for the coffee already smells of chlorine, it’s very probable that the coffee will also take on a chlorine-like aftertaste. Even if chlorine is not perceptible in the water, there can still be reactions with the delicate coffee aromas. The “perfect water” for coffee really needs to be filtered. Even if the mineralisation level is OK, you need to make sure that there is nothing else, like

chlorine or geosmin, potentially influencing the taste of your cup. In a country as large as Australia, there is not just one level of water quality that applies to the whole nation. It really differs from region to region. For instance, Victoria is considered to have a lower mineralisation that other states like Western or South Australia. This can mean the same coffee can taste different in two cities, which is something coffee roasters or suppliers should be mindful of when operating across state lines. In general, mineralisation in Australia is not too high compared to Germany, for example. But the use of chlorine is necessary to treat water and the pipe systems are very long, which can cause additional compounds to build up. This may lead to several off-flavours in water that requires high-quality filters to purify at the point of use. The ideal water composition for coffee would not contain organic compounds or substances from water treatment. When it comes to minerals, instead of lacking these “ingredients”, it just needs to be the right amount. It might sound simple, but a good quality filter is all you need to achieve a consistent water quality. For more information, visit www.brita.com.au

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TRAINING TACTICS

Babin Gurung is the New South Wales Barista Trainer of Suntory Coffee Australia.

Work & flow: a guide to setup success Mocopan Coffee’s Babin Gurung shares his top café set-up and workstation tips to ensure each venue has the skills to produce delicious and consistent coffee at high volume.

afés are often limited by available workspace and time to produce a consistent, high volume coffee. In previous issues, I talked about the benefits of using technology and training to increase coffee quality and consistency, but this time, I want to focus on maximising speed and volume through workflow. Setup: Café setup and layout is the first step to managing volume and efficient workflow, and it all begins with the correct placement of your tools and equipment. At Suntory Coffee, we like to follow the principle of “mise en place” which means “everything in its place”. A clean and tidy workstation helps with a smooth operational flow, and also makes a good impression on customers. Here are few things that need to be considered as part of your café setup and any time before or after rush periods: Coffee beans: • S tore enough coffee bags at an easyto-reach distance near the grinder, making sure it is kept away from heat, sunlight, and moisture. • K eep the grinder hopper(s) at least 25 per cent full to ensure coffee grinds consistently. • A ny leftover beans are to be sealed in their bag, placed in an airtight container, and stored with other bags.

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To maximise workflow, keep your grinder, additional tools and milk jugs close by so you don’t leave your workstation.

Milk: • M ilk should be stored in an easily accessible refrigerated space. • D airy milk can safely spend 30 minutes unrefrigerated. It is convenient to have a shelf directly below the coffee machine as a temporary storage for milk bottles that are in use. • D o not store milk in direct sunlight for any period as UV light can impact milk’s quality. Additives: • K eep additives such as sugar, syrups, chocolate powder, and chai mix next to the grinder. This makes it easy and efficient to prepare drinks without leaving your workstation. • A lso, it’s ideal to have a separate

self-service sugar station for the customers in case they want to add their own sugar. This should be placed away from the machine so that they won’t feel rushed by other customers wanting to collect their coffees. Dine-in/takeaway cups • S tore mugs and ceramic cups on top of the machine to preheat them, no more than three per stack. Stack takeaway cups upside down beside the cash register for the cashier to write the order and customer name on. Alternatively, store takeaway cups within an arm’s reach of the barista. • M anual brewers such as a V60 and pouring kettle can be stored under the coffee bench or on a display shelf behind the barista. Because most cafés do not make as many filter coffees as they do espressos, keeping them away

from the coffee machine will help keep the station tidy. Additional tools: • A utomatic tampers like the Puqpress should be placed between the grinder and the machine for one continuous flow. For manual tampers, place it on its face on a dry surface. Similarly, distribution tools should be kept dry and away from anywhere splashes may occur. • A utomatic milk dispensers such as a the Juggler and milk frothers like Ubermilk, should be placed on the other side of the coffee machine, where the drinks are poured and served. This allows the shots and milk station to be separate but continuous. Grinders: • P osition the grinder within one step of the espresso machine to minimise movement around the bar. • I f your grinder has a fan that draws cool air into the grinder, be sure the vents are not obscured by other objects or caked with dust. • K eep a large paintbrush near the grinder to sweep away excess grinds that may spill. Any spillage should be swept away immediately after it occurs. Don’t wait, or grinds will get into the customers cups, especially if you work outside where it’s windy. Knock box: • E mpty your knock box ahead of busy periods. It must be emptied and washed every day, as its contents can quickly become mouldy. Avoid emptying it into the sink. Drains are quickly blocked by coffee grinds. • P osition the knock box as close to the grinder as possible. Machine: • I t is ideal to have the coffee machine placed next to the order counter which allows the barista to interact and engage with the customers. Not only will this help the barista learn the coffee orders as it is being taken, they can also get help from the cashier if needed in finishing drinks or cleaning and restocking.

• I t is important to have the coffee machine visible from outside of the café to make it more inviting. Placing the machine at the entry point or near a window is a great way of doing that. The only downside is that the coffee will face the impact of changing weather outside such as hot, humid, or cold temperatures, which has direct impact on coffee extraction. Refer to BeanScene Feb 2021 article The Daily Grind to learn more on this topic. • D o not place any liquids on top of your machine, even if they need to be kept warm. This is an electrical hazard. • I f you spill any liquid, coffee grinds, or anything else onto your machine, clean it immediately. Now that our café is set up, let’s talk about workflow. Café workflow should encourage a repeatable pattern to add to the venue’s efficiency and pace. The aim is to have a workstation that can take orders, prepare espresso shots on one side of the espresso machine, texture milk on the other, then pour drinks and present the finished product to the customer, or call for service. Incorporating technologies such as an automatic tamper, milk dispenser, or auto-frother is a great way to achieve maximum efficiency. On first view at a busy café, you may think the one barista does everything from start to end to produce a coffee, but alas it’s not the case. Most high functioning and volume cafés split the role of baristas into three categories: shot barista, milk barista, and pouring barista. Shots barista: The primary role of a “shots barista” is to prepare the base for all coffee drinks. This includes selecting cups, adding extras, extracting the espresso, monitoring quality, and adjusting the grinder if need be. Equally important is maintaining constant communication with the milk barista to ensure no order mistakes are made. The best way to line-up shots is according to the order of coffees. Any special customer request needs to be shared with the milk barista. If shots pile up before the milk is ready, the shots

When working in a team, make sure baristas follow these positions.

Store coffee bags at an easy-to-reach distance near the grinder, away from heat, sunlight, and moisture.

barista should help in texturing milk as their secondary role. This will ensure a smooth workflow is maintained. Milk Barista: The primary role of a “milk barista” is to texture and pour milk in line with the coffee order. This position is more suited for an experienced barista who can guide the “shots barista” and control the flow of orders. The best way to minimise errors is to check and confirm orders with the “shots barista”. Using the “Split Pour” method we discussed in the December 2019 issue of BeanScene can help with pouring multiple drinks at once. The “milk barista” should seek opportunities to engage with customers and ensure their order has been picked up and prepared. Pouring Barista Where space allows, having a third person can help further increase speed and efficiency. This is a multi-tasking role which can be done by the cashier or manager during the peak periods. The role of “pouring barista” can range from pouring and finishing drinks according to milk barista’s instructions, call for service, customer engagement, and assist in stocking. It is important that the “pour barista” act as a support person and not jump into doing shots or milk which can break the workflow. Serving a high volume of coffees at high speed and accuracy is every café’s dream. Quite often, cafés must choose one over the other. But carefully using existing resources and applying efficient setup and workflow can help achieve both.

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Matthew Lewin is the 2019 ASCA Vitasoy Barista Champion and Café Ambassador for Vitasoy.

A barista’s guide to dairy alternatives: Almond milk Vitasoy Café Ambassador and 2019 Australian Barista Champion Matthew Lewin discusses how to bring the best out of almond milk in your café.

ven with soy’s longevity and oat’s rising popularity, almond milk has become the reigning dairy alternative for coffee. Why is that? When you order a dairy milk coffee, most of the time, you’re expecting it to be rich, round, and maybe even a decadent coffee experience. I think a big part of why almond milk is the plant milk of choice for many consumers is its ability to enrich that experience. When evaluating plant-based milks, a lot of specialty baristas seek out ‘neutrality’, where the most ideal characteristics of almond, soy, or oat play a support role to the coffee. But many people enjoy the sweet, creamy, nutty profile of almond milk. So, is that the only way to think about the pairing, or can we expand our approach to it? I feel the ‘holy grail’ is a plant-based milk that carries the coffee through, complementing and contrasting it, not over-shadowing or shutting down the coffee flavour profile. Beyond that, it should even enhance some of the coffee characteristics in a synergistic way, creating a whole new experience. The

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same way we look at good quality dairy milk – coffee must reign supreme. Whether it’s in a competition routine or regular café service, I’ve learned that coffees with bolder expressions, from classic/traditional styles to forward fruit bombs, heavy chocolatey flavours to big natural processed lots, extended fermentations to boozy style profiles, can handle fatter, richer, moreconcentrated dairy milks. PRO TIP: It’s the same with plant milks. Almond milk obviously has an inherently nutty character, as do a lot of the Brazilian coffees you find as the base in milk-oriented coffee blends, so these naturally pair well together. On the other end, it can contrast with the different flavours – like chocolate, citrus, or hints of fruit – that you get from Peru, Colombia, and other origins in those blends and really make them stand out. I’m not necessarily set on the idea of pairing certain dairy alternatives with certain styles of coffee, but just like plantbased milks have evolved, refined, and adapted to coffee over the years, now more than ever, there’s an opportunity for cafés to provide customers with a more curated drink.

One way we can do this in a specialty setting is to tailor our coffee recipe, or even selection on the bar, to the types of milk you’re using. We use different recipes for different milk-based coffee blends, so is it really too far a stretch to think we could set up individual espresso recipes for different dairy alternatives? There’s ways to dose and extract your coffee to give it the strength it needs to shine through in the cup (see Shot for Shot). When it comes to handling the almond milk itself, I’ve got a few little tricks that will help you bring the best out of it. • Crack open the lid (and put it back on) Then shake the carton each time before you use it. This prevents stratification and ensures consistency each time you pour it. • Keep it in the fridge, away from direct light to maintain its freshness and improves how it will texture. • While texturing, only introduce a small amount of air at the start, then submerge the wand tip to continue ‘whipping’ the almond milk. Anything more will almost be counterproductive to the quality of the milk.

milk recipes. I chose the one I thought was best and they took the same samples to a private panel, where 72 per cent chose the new recipe in favour of the biggest almond barista milk in market.

PAST, PRESENT, FUTURE

Matthew Lewin uses Vitasoy Café for Baristas Almond milk, a product made by a barista, for baristas.

MAKING THE BEST ALMOND MILK FOR COFFEE

Over the past year, I’ve been working with Vitasoy on the reformulation of its Café for Baristas Almond Milk. It’s been a revelation to peak behind the curtains at what goes into making a dairy alternative that pairs with coffee. The Vitasoy research and development has revolved around making the best almond milk in market for cafés, while not abandoning the plant milk’s identity, because a huge amount of almond milk drinkers love that presence of almond character in their coffee. This resulted in refining Vitasoy’s ‘secret recipe’ so it now provides a much creamier, nutty product that balances nicely with coffee. There were really two parts to the process of developing the best barista dairy alternative possible. First, you refine the milk back of house: choosing the highest-quality almonds and associated ingredients, lots of science and evaluation with optimal processing methods, and exploring composition. Then you bring in the coffee. When it comes to ingredients, one of the advantages of Vitasoy is that, not only is it Australian made, its ingredients are locally sourced. This supports local business, has a much better environmental footprint than shipping almonds from the United States, and

provides Vitasoy with more opportunity for collaboration and flexibility. The second part, which I’ve been particularly involved in, is the testing and tasting. You extract coffee in different doses, strengths, and extraction levels to make sure the almond milk is versatile and find out what recipes work really well and draw conclusions from that. We conducted comprehensive and detailed sensory evaluation over several months, involving myself, the Vitasoy team, third-party panels, and the rest of the team at Ona Coffee Melbourne. We compared the new recipe to the old one, others in development, and some on the market, where the new Café for Baristas Almond Milk continually came back with top results. The moment of truth, after months of testing, refining, and tweaking the recipe to make the tastiest almond milk for coffee possible, was when Vitasoy presented me with three trial almond

A lot of coffee-oriented dairy alternative brands will begin their life in the café before branching out into grocery and supermarket aisles. Vitasoy took the opposite approach, establishing its brand presence before moving into cafés. Now it’s on us in the café coffee community to use their product in the best way possible. I love Vitasoy’s deep and genuine vision to be the best in market and the action-based steps we’ve outlined to achieve it. They saw there was room to improve their almond milk, put in the work, and its quality has really evolved. There are some key core qualities we talk about when it comes to milk or dairy alternatives in coffee. Those are mouthfeel, texture, the weight of it, the sweetness, quality of the sweetness – how refined or ‘true’ it is to the product, the transparency of the milk, and how it complements or contrasts the coffee. Then there’s the finish: once again, does it allow the coffee to speak? Vitasoy Café for Baristas Almond is a plant milk made by a barista, for baristas. It’s smooth, decadent, and has a high-quality sweet almond finish that completes the ultimate almond milk coffee experience. Together with coffee, it creates an experience that’s complete, mouth-watering, and utterly delicious. But don’t just take my word for it, go out and try it. In the end, there’s one simple question to ask with all thing’s coffee and plant milk: does it taste absolutely delicious and do I want to drink the whole cup? If it does, then we’ve done our job right. The reformulated Vitasoy Café for Baristas Almond Milk will be available from July 2021. For more information, visit vitasoycafe.com.au, or contact your local distributor or the Bega Dairy and Drinks Customer Service team on 1800 000 570.

SHOT FOR SHOT

Here’s an example of an espresso recipe I like to use for almond milk-based coffees. Coffee: Milk-based roast, chocolate caramel profile Dose: 20.5 to 21 grams Yield: 38 to 42 grams Time: 27 to 30 seconds Milk weight: 110 to120 grams (per six-ounce cup and on espresso shot) 20.5 grams – balanced, sweet, good cut through, nice finish 21 grams – bold flavour profile, round, sweet, nice finish, creamy.

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ESPRESSO YOURSELF

Victor Vu of Ona Coffee Melbourne is the 2020 ASCA Australian Pauls Professional Latte Art Champion

Peter Pan The new Australian Latte Art Champion and BeanScene Espresso Yourself columnist Victor Vu flies us to neverland with his take on the iconic Peter Pan.

fter more than a year of waiting, I couldn’t have been more excited to compete in (let alone win) the 2020 Australian Pauls Professional Latte Art Championship. 2020 was a tough year for many of us in the coffee industry. Our cafés went empty, our health and livelihoods were put at risk, and we could no longer see the people important to us. It took strength, resilience, and positivity to get through it. These are themes I chose to take to the national stage. Peter Pan is a cheeky guy who never grows up and always has a smile on his face. I hoped it would put a smile of the judges’ faces too. This is an advanced latte art pattern and not something you’re likely to get on the first try. First off, there are a number of

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rosettas. You’ll need a steady hand and good idea of spacing to pull these off. Then the etching. There are elements of this design you just can’t do free pour, especially the detail of the face, which you want to match the cartoon as closely as possible. Etching is a great way to add detail, particularly to the hat and feather in Peter’s cap. You also need an understanding of how certain movements, strokes, and swirls will impact the rest of your design. Several times your etching will finish off elements of the design you began at the start of the pattern. It took me a long time to create this pattern and even more time to perfect it, so don’t get frustrated if you can’t master it right away. Peter Pan might not age, but that doesn’t mean you can’t learn and grow.

1. Build your base with the handle at 12 o’clock. From just above the centre of the cup, pour an eight-left rosetta toward the right edge of the cup.

3. Turn the handle to three o’clock. Above the bottom rosetta, pour two six-leaf rosettas pointing towards the handle. On the other side of the top rosetta, pour two symmetrical six-leaf rosettas.

5. Now for the etching. From the leftmost rosetta, etch a curved line up through the tip of the top rosetta. Etch a line from the rightmost rosetta that connects on the top, just before reaching the top rosetta.

7. For the face, etch two curves pointing toward the centre of the face for eyebrows. Etch two drops of foam inside these curves for eyes. Use brown foam from the side of the cup to etch in small pupils.

2. Turn the handle to six o’clock, and from the centre of the cup, pour a nine-leaf rosetta to the right edge.

4. In the bottom right corner, pour an elf ear, like a shark fin sticking out of the first rosetta. From the bottom of the leftmost rosetta, begin dragging the face, curving inwards at first before curving along the rim to connect to the bottom rosetta.

6. Etch a border around the topmost rosetta, curving leftwards at the top end giving the tip a swirling look.

8. Back to milk foam etching, draw a small, pointed nose below where the two eyebrows meet, followed by a wideopen smile. Using coffee foam again, pull a line through the centre rosetta to complete the feather in his cap.

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NZSCA

Emma McDougall is the Communications and Administration Co-ordinator of the NZSCA.

Coming of age part 2 Emma McDougall uncovers the rise of the New Zealand Barista Championship and its impact on the specialty coffee industry over the past 20 years. Part two of three.

uring the weekend of 20 to 21 March 2021, New Zealand crowned its 19th Barista Champion. Congratulations to Luise Metelka of Flight Coffee Roasters in Wellington. Luise took the hotly contested title with Hanna Teramoto (2014 NZBC winner) of Woozoo Group runner-up and Frank Hsu of Franks Coffee in Wellington coming third for a third time. The vibe around the Championships was palpable. Indeed, the Championship lends itself to excitement. Why does a coffee competition create such emotions? After a particularly intense year of planning, delaying, and postponing, full credit goes to our community for supporting and believing in us all along. More about what happened in March 2021 to come in another article. What gives the Championship it’s longevity? With anything, the secret is in the planning and construction of the concrete base layer to build the foundations of a great competition. A key moment in the NZ Barista Championship timeline saw the association adopt the hosting from Robert Harris, thus expanding the resources from all sides in the industry and eliminating any politics from perceived commercial competition. To this day, the meticulously planned details and sweating the small stuff has led to growth. Two names continued to alternate at the top during these middle years. The winning wave of Christchurch baristas Carl Sara and Luciano Marcolino consistently placed on the podium, with a top ranking of third from Carl at the World Barista Championship in Tokyo 2007. Did they quite simply they know the scoresheets inside out?

Emma Markland-Webster helped grow the NZ Barista Championship.

“It’s very well to look at the score sheet and follow how it reads, but what are the rules and regulations?” These were Emma Markland Webster’s words to me when I asked about changes in the score sheets, technical weightings, and how the rules and regulations had evolved. Essentially, along with change at national level in NZ, the governing body was making changes too. I asked Emma more about the rules and judging. She said, “while changes where happening at a national level, a deliberate careful evolution was happening at world level.” Emma elaborated: “Judging calibration at national level was always conducted very seriously, and it was through learning by judging overseas in 2009-10 that we were able to create a strong impact to bring out the best of our judges.” Workshops were created for judges and competitors to further peel back the understanding of what the competition was about rather than the individual interpretation of the score sheets. Indeed, at my first (and only soiree into competing at a Barista Championship) in 2004 in Ireland, I put cinnamon on top of the cappuccino round. I simply hadn’t read the rules and I was desperate to

race through the routine in 12 minutes, thinking that speed was the key. While my routine wasn’t ideal, the learnings off stage and working with other competitors was key. I shared my equipment. I learned more about coffee from other baristas. I even got to watch a young Stephen Morrisey bring along his own grinder (unheard of) and use freshly roasted coffee and take out second place. Alongside, compared to population, the growth of NZ judges saw them well represented on the international stage. This led to a trickle-down effect of baristas/ judges travelling overseas, gaining skills, ideas, and knowledge of this world event. Emma says that the judge’s certification helped this process. “The common goal to knowledge share among our competing baristas and new judges saw the standard rise. One thing that is a constant within NZ and on the international stage is not the winning, but the participation. Don’t get us wrong, winning a world title would be awesome. But being open, honest and welcoming to all and having a laugh along the way is critical. We put all company rivalries to one side and assist each other in stiving to be better,” said Emma. In part three, we will navigate the ‘teenage years’ and growth of the competition. The Meadow Fresh NZ Barista Championship 2022 will take place from 13 to 14 March, 2022 at Expression Arts and Entertainment Centre in Upper Hutt, Wellington. For more information on the New Zealand Specialty Coffee Association, or to join, visit www.nzsca.org

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PEOPLE ON THE MOVE

People on the move BeanScene celebrates the latest industry appointments in the Australian coffee landscape.

PETER WEST – VICE PRESIDENT & GENERAL MANAGER, AUSTRALIA, PACIFIC & INDONESIA, COCA-COLA EUROPACIFIC PARTNERS Peter West, currently Managing Director of Coca-Cola Amatil Australia, will become Vice President and General Manager for a newly created Australia, Pacific and Indonesia Business Unit. He will join the executive leadership team of Coca-Cola European Partners. Peter shares 30 years of industry experience.

RENEE ROGERS – GENERAL MANAGER SALES, ALL G FOODS Renee has spent the past 25 years working in fast-moving consumer goods, selling and building brands, channels and people. This included eight years driving an entrepreneurial idea in MilkLab. Her latest opportunity is an inspiring new company called All G Foods (allgfoods.com). It is an Australian made and owned plant-based meat company that wants to help the planet, one meal at a time.

STEVE WRIGHTSON – GENERAL MANAGER FOR SUNTORY COFFEE AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND Steve Wrightson is the newly appointed General Manager for Suntory Coffee Australia and New Zealand business. Steve has been a key member of Suntory Coffee’s success over the last decade, driving his leadership position in the fresh coffee market. His appointment will play a critical role in supporting the continual growth strategy for Suntory Coffee’s Melbourne and Auckland roasteries, the Mocopan and Robert Harris branded business, and the Espresso Mechanics business also across Australia and NZ.

ELOUISE DEL ROSARIO – NEW SOUTH WALES BARISTA TRAINER, MOCOPAN COFFEE Former Café Manager at Toby’s Estate Chippendale, Elouise Del Rosario joined the Mocopan Training Team this year seeking a new challenge and the opportunity to further develop her training skills and knowledge. Elouise is ready to explore a peoplefocused alternative career pathway in the coffee industry.

DAYLE JACOBSEN – QUEENSLAND TERRITORY MANAGER, MOCOPAN COFFEE

CARLOS ESCOBAR – NATIONAL SALES MANAGER, TOBY’S ESTATE COFFEE ROASTERS

DONCE BOZINOVSKI – DISTRIBUTOR MANAGER, MOCOPAN COFFEE

Dayle Jacobsen joins Mocopan Coffee as its Territory Manager, focusing on the growth and development of small businesses, and helping café customers excel their coffee offering. Dayle has 10 years of industry experience, first working at local café and roastery where he became Head Roaster, before moving to Brisbane to pursue a role in territory management.

Carlos Escobar is a dedicated, passionate and result-driven sales professional with over eight years of new business development experience in the specialty coffee industry. He is passionate about mentoring and motivating his peers and sharing his love for specialty coffee. Carlos is the ASCA 2020 Australian Brewers Cup Champion.

Donce Bozinovski has worked as a Business Development Manager and managed a sales team in Melbourne over the past eight years. He now looks after Mocopan Coffee distributor partners in Victoria, South Australia, Northern Territory and Western Australia, helping them to grow their coffee knowledge and portfolios.

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