2017 T H E A R T O F F I N E C R A F T S M A N S H I P
FROM THE PRIVATE EDITION COLLECTION
EK A COLLECTION
FOPE.COM
ART DIR: FLAVIO ALBANESE PH. JOSEPH CARDO
D E S I G N A N D T EC H N I C A L I N N OVAT I O N .
PANERAI
H AS
TEC H NI CAL
C R E ATED
A
INNOVATIO N.
WATC H CAR BO N
TH AT
TELLS
S H E E TS
A
STO RY
OF
CO M P R ESS E D
R ES E AR C H AT
AN D
CO NTR O LLE D
TE M P ERATU RE U ND ER H I G H P R ESS U R E BR IN G TH E N E W LU M IN O R S U BM E RS IB LE 1950 CARBOTECHTM TO LIFE,
IN A COMBINATION OF HIGH-TECH, HIGH-PERFORMANCE
MATER IAL AN D A U NI QU E , TI M ELESS D ES I G N.
LU M I N O R S U B M E R S I B L E 1 9 50 CA R B OT EC H T M 3 D AYS A U TO M AT I C - 4 7 M M ( R E F. 6 1 6 )
PA N E R A I . C O M
T
H
E
A
R
T
O
F
Big Bang Ferrari King Gold. King Gold case inspired by the brands’ iconic lines. In-house UNICO chronograph. Interchangeable strap with a patented attachment. Limited edition of 500 pieces.
F
U
S
I
O
N
CONTENTS
7
8
ED’S LETTER
Your window into the highly complicated world of haute horlogerie.
BASELWORLD 2017
New masterpieces in miniature mechanics that are quite out of this world.
12 SIHH 2017
A report-back from this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva.
14 A CLOS CALL
World champion swimmer Chad le Clos tells us how the Games have changed him.
16 A CORNER OF SWITZERLAND
The Vault brings expertise and choice right to your doorstep.
18 FELINE FASCINATION The relaunch of the Panthère de Cartier collection.
20 MASTERY AND MAGIC
Creative teams work together to dream up timepieces that stand out from a sparkling array of designs.
22 OUT OF THE BLUE
The sea offers a rich bounty for skilled and inspired watchmakers.
24 POETRY IN MOTION
Watches inspired by aviators are fine pieces of craftsmanship, and symbols of wider, more exciting horizons.
26 FAST DATING
Supercars and extraordinary timepieces; it’s a game, set and match of the bold and the beautiful.
28 IN THE DEEP END
When you dive, every second counts.
30 IMAGINATION’S INFINITY CURVE
Is it only technology that stands between man’s imagination and future possibilities?
32 EYE LIGHTS
IWC’s 2017 launches for the Da Vinci line build on a concept first released in 1969 and find their masculine lines have caught the eye of women buyers.
34 SHIMMER AND SHINE
The latest jewellery collections see designs inspired by captivating cities, ancient artefacts, and natural gemstones.
36 BUYING TIME
PHOTOGRAPHY: SUPPLIED
When it comes to an investment in time, it’s not just about what you can wear on your wrist.
6
P R I V A T E T I M E 2017
FROM THE ED’S HEAD
EDITOR LES AUPIAIS privateedition@tppsa.co.za PUBLISHER SUSAN NEWHAM-BLAKE CREATIVE DIRECTOR KIMBERLEY REID MANAGING EDITOR JENNIFER CAMPBELL jcampbell@tppsa.co.za COPY EDITOR WENDY MARITZ BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER NIC MORKEL 021 488 5926 082 468 6490 nmorkel@tppsa.co.za PRINT ADVERTISING MANAGER SAMEEGHA WOLHUTER 021 488 5938, 078 356 9521 swolhuter@tppsa.co.za ADVERTISING & SALES ENQUIRIES NICK LUMB 021 488 3518 060 736 4386 nlumb@tppsa.co.za ADVERTISING SALES COORDINATOR LESLEY GREEN 021 488 5944 lgreen@tppsa.co.za EXECUTIVE DIRECTORS MARK BEARE HUMAN RESOURCES MANAGER JOLINDA KEMP FINANCIAL MANAGER NAEEMA ABRAHAMS ACCOUNTS LAETITIA BOTHMA RECEPTIONIST FAGMIEDA WILLEMSE
WELCOME TO OUR third edition of Private Time, which brings you a selection of the world’s most luxurious timepieces available in South Africa. The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva (attended by our specialist writer Debbie Hathway) and Baselworld 2017 saw the release of thousands of new watch editions. In Private Time we focus on a handful of outstanding examples of ingenuity, imagination and craftsmanship. Just when it seems impossible to dream up another miniature complication or an artistic technique to embellish a timepiece, inventiveness triumphs. Much like a vertical tasting of a fine wine with vintages compared over the decades, watches are often collected in special editions. Or, as in a tasting of a selection of fine wine from several top vineyards, collectors taken with the heroics and derring-do of pilots, collect watches across the marques. If time flying at Mach I fails to move you, then perhaps a watch that remains lucid and functional at 300m deep appeals – even if the wearer would never dream of risking the dive. The watch – Audermars, Blancpain or Rolex – will represent your deepest desires to do so without the risk. Even if only symbolic of an adventurous heart, these timepieces remain within the bounds of functional. Where the artistry of a top jeweller meets watchmaking ingenuity, we see astonishing engineering. In this edition of Private Time, Debbie Hathway uncovers yet another ‘flight’ theme in a selection of watches that are inspired by butterfly wings. Graff’s Princess Butterfly hides its face in a glorious array of diamonds, while Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels’ Papillon Automatique features a miniature and ‘flutterable’ set of wings. Fascinating and magical in its conception, time is the supporting act to an exquisite piece of jewellery. But there will always be legends in this fascinating industry. Patek Philippe’s latest release is gorgeously ’40s and ’50s retro in look – disarmingly so as it retails for a tad under the price of a Porsche 911 Carrera. When it comes to a toss-up between fast wheels and an heirloom, the Patek must triumph. Taking one giant leap further, though, Bell & Ross has released only five BR-X1 Tourbillon Chronograph Sapphire timepieces that retail for a fairly princely R7.5 million. One was allocated to SA. The transparent case of the exterior is a galaxy of grand complications. Adding to the flying tourbillon is an elegant mono-pusher chronograph. The 282 components and 35 jewels in the watch tell only part of its story. It is in the viewing of the ingenious interactions of this ultimate collector’s dream that one would become hopelessly seduced. But emotion need not be tied to a fierce financial outlay. I wear a very modest Baume & Mercier. Black and steel, it has a face very similar to a watch my late father once wore. It features elegant Roman numerals and the date but is a needy timepiece. It requires winding. This little interaction gives it simple charm and when I focus on the ritual turning of the crown, I recall my father’s head bent over his wrist while he did the same. Priceless.
Private Edition is published by The Publishing Partnership (Pty) Ltd, 9th Floor, Tarquin House, 81 Loop Street, Cape Town 8001. Copyright: The Publishing Partnership (Pty) Ltd 2017. No portion of this publication may be reproduced without prior written consent from The Publishing Partnership or the authors. The publishers are not responsible for any unsolicited material. The opinions expressed are PHOTOGRAPHY: SUPPLIED
not necessarily those of The Publishing Partnership or the editor. Editorial and advertising enquiries: PO Box 15054, Vlaeberg 8018; tel: 021 424 3517; email: privateedition@tppsa.co.za. Visit privateedition. co.za. Reproduction: Hirt & Carter. Printing: Novus
CHARMING DETAIL The LOVE TEDDY Collection from Elegance Jewellers incorporates warm winter tones and cozy palettes. Colours include Ash, Rose & Snow.
Print Solutions. ISSN: 2218-063X
2017 P R I V A T E T I M E
7
REPORT-BACK
BASELWORLD CELEBRATES ITS 100TH ANNIVERSARY A visit to Baselworld promises ‘more wristwatches and jewellery than you’ve ever seen in your life, in all price ranges’. Words DEBBIE HATHWAY
8
P R I V A T E T I M E 2017
MAINTAINING ITS STATUS as the world’s premier exhibition space for watches and jewellery, Baselworld organisers were pleased with the turnout this year despite attendance being slightly lower than 2016. It’s no secret that economic challenges have affected the watch industry over the past two years but Switzerland is still the leading exporter by value, with the industry boasting the equivalent of 19,1 billion dollars. At Baselworld, the trade show that has been dedicated to watch and jewellery launches since 1917, more than 100 000 buyers as well as international media spend the better part of a week getting to grips with the latest creations by global and international brands, which share the space with dealers in pearls and gemstones as well as specialists in machinery supplies. As one journalist from watchtime.com put it, when you visit this trade show, expect
PHOTOGRAPHY: SUPPLIED
TOP 10
1. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatique features a leaf-thin self-winding movement, measuring 2,23mm. 2. Graff’s Mastergraff Structural Skeleton timepiece boasts sapphire glass bridges and open-worked hands, allowing the inner workings of the watch to be seen from all angles. 3. Omega’s Trilogy Limited Edition Railmaster, Seamaster 300 (featured) and Speedmaster watches make a comeback after their debut in 1957. 4. The Nautilus 40th anniversary models indicate Patek Philippe’s desire to appeal to millennials. 5. Fifty years since its launch, Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller remains legendary among professional divers’ watches. 6. The Hublot Techframe Ferrari 70 years Tourbillon Chronograph is available in three versions – King Gold, PEEK Carbon, and Titanium, each of which is produced in 70 limited editions. 7. Hewn in steel, the Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Lune Retrograde is a subtle fusion of contemporary spirit and experienced craftsmanship.
REPORT-BACK
8. Harry Winston continues its pursuit of excellence in innovation, by presenting the tourbillon in a series of spectacular new forms, as seen in the Histoire de Tourbillon 8. 9. The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 has a new 1/100th of a second chronograph movement. 10. The iconic TAG Heuer Autavia Heuer celebrates its 55th anniversary in the form of a neo-retro successor featuring updated functions and a proprietary movement.
to see ‘more wristwatches and jewellery than you’ve ever seen in your life, in all price ranges. Established brands exhibit in building-size, multi-storey booths, while smaller brands and newcomers are housed in more modest surroundings.’ Visitors need to plan ahead (and book, if travelling) to save time on site and secure accommodation long in advance. This year the show introduced Les Ateliers, a set-up devoted to showcasing the artistry and craftsmanship of independent watchmakers such as MB&F, Armin Strom, George Graham and Moritz Grossmann. The Design Lab was another innovation, inviting jewellery designers to work on concepts in a public forum. They ranged from the ultramodern style of design icons such as Georg Spreng and Marcin Zaremski to newcomers Christina Rasmussen, who creates jewellery that embodies all facets of a woman, and Liliana Guerreiro who applies a light, feminine touch to her contemporary range. In terms of trends, ablogtowatch.com editor Ariel Adams writes that the big groups are dominating in the $1 000 to $3 000 price point when it comes to overall product quality. ‘The Swatch Group, as well as LVMH brands like TAG Heuer, have some really nice stuff in this range,’ he says. ‘2017 was certainly not about novelty, but rather refinement and product-family expansion. We saw a lot of better watches but scant few actually new watches – especially among “volume” price ranges in the $3 000 to $10 000 category, which is the sweet spot for the majority of luxury watch consumers. Given market uncertainty, this lack of taking design risks is perhaps understandable, but it does mean that collectors have more of the same to look forward to, without the necessary freshness a lot of watch buyers need in order to stay engaged with their hobby.’
10
P R I V A T E T I M E 2017
W A T C H
B E Y O N D
BR 03-92 DIVER · Bell & Ross Sandton Boutique | Adara | Big Five Duty Free | Bellagio | Cajees Time Zone | Makgalas | Murdocks | Roma Gioielli | Piajeh Jewellert & Objects D'Art | Sedgars | The Watch and Jewellery Gallery | Vesuvio | +27(0) 11783 8813 · www.bellross.com
REPORT-BACK
S E IN
L E IN
N I M
E F G
N O L
A
At this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva several brands focused on catching the eyes and independent spending power of women buyers.
THERE’S NO DENYING that artists in creative industries seek appreciation for their work – whether they admit it or not. For some, the return might be in sales, for others it might be in industry accolades or praise from their peers. At the 2017 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, where some of the world’s best watchmaking innovators unveil new creations in January each year, exhibitors hope their new reveals attract a little bit of everything. Private Time was part of a select group of journalists from around the globe invited to be among the first to experience a range of novelties often years in the making. This year, the 30 exhibitors included Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin while the avant-garde Carré des Horlogers section featured an additional five watch houses. Looking ahead to what will most likely be another transition
12
P R I V A T E T I M E 2017
year for the fine watchmaking industry, Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) chairwoman and managing director Fabienne Lupo says that clients want simpler pieces that are more affordable. ‘The brands have done great work, perhaps refocusing, getting back to the essentials of their collections to present products that embody their values completely.’ Ladies’ collections featured strongly this year, with Cartier relaunching its classic Panthère de Cartier collection and IWC revitalising its Da Vinci line. The Panthère de Cartier design expresses an aspect of femininity that is both sensual and powerful, which resonates with women today. By contrast, IWC’s Da Vinci design has evolved with time, appealing to female buyers who like masculine brands but seek a feminine style. Richard Mille’s new range for ladies maintains its traditional aesthetic, also quite masculine, appealing to a range of buyers
PHOTOGRAPHY: SUPPLIED
Words DEBBIE HATHWAY
REPORT-BACK
from those who like to sparkle with the gem-setting savoirfaire demonstrated in the RM 037 or appreciate a complication such as that contained in the artistic execution of the RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur. Bearing in mind that 45 percent of its turnover is attributed to its feminine collections, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2017 launches look to the moon and sky for inspiration. Among the releases is the popular Rendez-Vous Night & Day in new sizes and a variety of materials, including yellow gold, which disappeared from Jaeger-LeCoultre designs over the years and was reintroduced in this collection. The Maison’s efforts to create thinner and smaller movements led to the creation in the 1930s of the Calibre 101, which remains the smallest mechanical movement ever created. This ability to miniaturise movements and
complications gives rise to feminine collections that combine elegance and high watchmaking. Last year, Roger Dubuis defined its female market (which makes up 30 percent of its turnover) by their clients’ exuberance, confidence, sensuality, creativity and selfexpression. This year, their interpretation is being revealed in 28 pieces of the Excalibur Essential 36 Automatic in a black DLC-treated titanium case, bezel-set with 48 blue sapphires. The Manufacture is producing the watch in seven colours over the course of the year, with two colours having been launched at SIHH.
2017 P R I V A T E T I M E
13
CELEBRITY
A CLOS CALL
THE FIRST TIME I met Chad le Clos was in 2012. He was on his way to the London Olympics and had been invited to meet the local media at Virgin Active SA who had sponsored part of his trip. He drove himself to the club in a rush and with no celebrity sportsman entourage, and had forgotten a swimming costume and cap for a demo swim. He scrambled together some kit from somewhere and with his characteristic grin and reserve, addressed the small gathering. A few journalists and one photographer had turned up. I introduced Chad and joked with them that it would, in all likelihood, be the last time they would get this close to him for individual interviews because he would win a gold. Tentative smiles all round. But things were changing for Chad. Official Olympic Games timekeepers Omega had already spotted his potential. They had presciently pinned their brand to a future star as, a month later, the world witnessed Le Clos’ ‘unbelievable’ gold medal win against Phelps. He had won by five one-hundredths of a second. I caught up with him again in October 2016 after watching him win a silver in Rio in August. What a difference podium-positioning makes. The post-2012/2016-Olympics Chad le Clos had filled out, was charming, confident, funny, honest, self-deprecating – and impeccably kitted out in a designer suit. In short, a sponsor’s dream. I asked him how he felt about his three-way tie with Michael Phelps and Hungary’s László Cseh in the men’s 100m butterfly final. All three clocked a time of 51.14 seconds, which is about as likely as finding a violet-coloured diamond in the Kimberley’s defunct Big Hole. ‘It was awesome,’ says Le Clos. The swimmers all looked at each other and couldn’t figure out what had happened for a second. He had logged his position immediately but then caught the expression of confusion on László face as he was also awarded a silver. The now-famous picture of a laughing Le Clos, Phelps and Cseh with three fingers raised in a salute was the spirit of the Olympics at its best. The Le Clos today is different he admits. ‘I think I have definitely matured a lot since 2012. The way I approach
14
P R I V A T E T I M E 2017
things, the way that I race. And train.’ After 2012, expectations of his ability rose dramatically. ‘After London I felt I had to win every single race. I felt like the “heavyweight champion of the world” and I had to defend my title. In truth, it wasn’t like that. I went into the 2016 Olympics a bit more freed up, a bit more myself. Normally I would be obsessed with winning. Either you learn from stuff or stay where you are.’ One of the learnings was not to fear Phelps but to ‘see through him to the other side’, says Le Clos. Le Clos has his sights on 2020 and Tokyo with key international competitions in between. Phelps, the most decorated Olympic medalist of all time, has retired but the field is now wide open to a pack hungry to chase his titles and records. So, what is on Le Clos’ wish list to improve his performance? What innovation would he like? He looks serious for a (split) second. ‘Maybe a thicker touch pad to give me an advantage,’ he poses. We both laugh. There will be no shortcuts when Omega’s timing technology has removed the subjective human element. It will be Le Clos’ body and mind that will give him an advantage the thickness of an eyelash. It’s all that stands between silver and gold, podium and relative obscurity.
PHOTOGRAPHY: SUPPLIED
LES AUPIAIS recalls three encounters with world champion swimmer Chad le Clos and how the Games have changed him.
YOU ARE THE MASTER OF YOUR TIME YOU ARE ASTUTE. YOU HAVE DISCERNMENT. YOU DEFINE OPULENCE. NO ONE UNDERSTANDS YOU BETTER THAN TOPWATCH. THIS IS WHY WE SPEND EVERY SECOND OF OUR EXISTENCE TO PRESENT YOU WITH HIGH TICKET LUXURY WATCHES AT YESTERYEAR’S OUTLAY. PRICE IS WHAT YOU PAY, VALUE IS WHAT YOU ENJOY. QUIT SQUANDERING AND START INVESTING IN TIME. THAT’S WHY WE ARE HERE. TAKE HANDS WITH TOPWATCH TO EXPAND YOUR LUXURY WATCH COLLECTION TODAY. IT IS NEVER TOO LATE.
www.topwatch.co.za
PRETORIA - JOHANNESBURG - CAPE TOWN - UK – AUSTRALIA Topwatch Customer Service Centre, Shop 9, Double Tree Hilton Hotel, Brickfield Road, Cape Town.
THE VAULT
A LITTLE CORNER OF SWITZERLAND
THERE ARE TWO LEGENDARY watch fairs held annually in Switzerland. The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in January in Geneva and Baselworld in March. SIHH is closed to the public and Baselworld’s massive watch and jewellery offering from around the world is an avalanche of bewildering choice and a logistical challenge even for the most ardent collector. The Vault in Melrose Arch, Johannesburg, is arguably the smartest and most logistically accessible alternative. Here Swiss watch brands are given their own ‘hero’ shops-within-a-shop allowing watch collectors and followers of the world’s most prestigious brands to browse for the newest editions and latest trends in haute horlogerie. The Vault is owned by Justin Divaris and run by brothers David and Larry Mayers, who bring more than 50 years’ combined experience to the market. Not only do potential buyers have access to excellent advice but The Vault concept ensures that clients shop with clarity and enough choice to make that Switzerland trip sheer whimsy. There are also practical reasons to keep close – The Vault offers competitive solutions to insurance replacements on all brands stocked. ‘If the timepiece is obsolete or no longer in production,’ say the Mayers, ‘we will source the equivalent replacement.’
16
P R I V A T E T I M E 2016
The Mayers also source – very quickly and efficiently – the timepiece of your deepest desires. By supporting suppliers, they are also able to repair and service all brands stocked. Given flight costs and Geneva’s fierce standard of living, where hotel rates and even the cost of a little double espresso makes one blanch, a few hours at The Vault will be well spent. What better way to keep your carbon footprint low while being able to choose from the most sought-after watch brands?
For further details: www.vaultsa.co.za
PHOTOGRAPHY: SUPPLIED
It’s all very well thinking of jet-setting off to Switzerland to find your perfect watch match at an annual watch fair but The Vault brings expertise and choice right to your doorstep.
real watches for real people
Oris Aquis Small Second, Date Automatic mechanical movement Stainless steel case with crown protection Unidirectional, revolving top ring Water resistant to 50 bar/500 m Available at: Bellagio Jewellers Montres du Monde Official Distributor +27(0) 11783 8813 info@montresdumonde.co.za
Timepiece and adornment – the Panthère de Cartier, an epitome of feminine self-expression
18
P R I V A T E T I M E 2017
CARTIER
FELINE FASCINATION
PHOTOGRAPHY: SUPPLIED
DEBBIE HATHWAY talks to Cartier Image, Style and Heritage director Pierre Rainero about the relaunch of the Panthère de Cartier collection.
THE PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER is my kind of watch. Classical, beautiful, part-jewellery, part-timepiece. These words are music to Pierre Rainero’s ears. First launched in 1983, the year before Rainero joined Cartier, the line has been reintroduced partly due to renewed public interest. ‘We noticed an increase in Panthère watches being brought in for services (mothers giving them to their daughters, daughters wanting to wear them), and they were becoming a strong item on social media,’ says Rainero. ‘We started thinking about a relaunch, and whether we should change something in the design. In the end we decided not to change a thing except for a few imperceptible technical aspects, such as waterproofness.’ Initially produced in sizes suited to men and women, the watch slowly disappeared from the Cartier range, being overshadowed by the release of the Tank Française at the end of the ’90s. Relaunched at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in models only for women, the Panthère de Cartier was certainly a favourite among the pieces that marked a serendipitous return to femininity that was a hallmark of the fair. The bracelet design inspired its name, also referencing the Maison’s well-loved interpretation of feline inspiration evident in its watch and jewellery pieces since the late Cartier design director Jeanne Toussaint began working with it in the 1920s. The attitude and allure that earned her the nickname, la Panthère, is conveyed in the movement of the bracelet that is seen to mimic the big-cat’s prowl. Typically Cartier, with its avant-garde and elegant style, the watch is equally eye-catching whether worn loose or adjusted to fit the wrist. ‘It is not seen just as a watch, but also as a piece of jewellery – it was the first watch ever to be perceived like that,’ says Rainero. The signature square case with rounded edges
features Roman-numeral indexes and railway-track iconography. The collection is available in a range of nine metals or finishes, from more affordable steel options to fully pavéd high-jewellery pieces. One of the latest renditions is a limited-edition model in pink gold and black lacquer. Available in numbered pieces of only 30 in the 27mm medium size and 50 in the 22mm small version, the pattern references the ‘panther-skin’ motif first used by Cartier Paris in its ‘panther-pattern’ wristwatch of 1914. ‘Part of the strength of the design is that it gives the impression of being very now. You have the desire to look at it, to wear it, but also appreciate that it belongs to a previous period. It resonates in a different way because it’s from the ’80s,’ says Rainero. Sensual, articulated and fluid, the Panthère de Cartier is the epitome of a feminine watch – full of character, a daily companion, an expression of self.
*For more information, visit www.cartier.com.
PIERRE RAINERO Born in 1958, Pierre Rainero is a French national with a degree from HEC (Ecole des Hautes Etudes Commerciales, Paris). He began his career in advertising at Ogilvy and Mather in 1980. He has been with Cartier in Paris since 1984, aside from his time as marketing manager for the Maison in Italy. Rainero joined the organisation as international advertising manager, later heading up research and strategy, communication, and artistic direction of Cartier products and image-related matters for Cartier International. In his current role as Image, Style and Heritage director, Rainero continues to oversee all contemporary Cartier designs, communications and strategy-related issues, but is also in charge of the Heritage Department. As such, he supervises the Cartier Collection, now comprising more than 1 300 historical pieces, and is the main contact for major international museums and cultural institutions planning exhibitions dedicated to Cartier creations.
2017 P R I V A T E T I M E
19
JEWELLED WATCHES
MASTERY AND MAGIC There are watch engineers, and then there are the artisans. Today, the best manufactures celebrate the happy marriage of both groups. Creative teams must work together to dream up that one timepiece that stands out from the sparkling array of designs; the one that could catch the investor’s eye. Words DEBBIE HATHWAY
JEWELLED WATCHES
(Opposite) The Diamond Outrage is the third and final part of the Audemars Piguet Haute Joaillerie ladies’ cuff timepiece trilogy – her predecessors being the Diamond Punk (2015) and Diamond Fury (2016)
PHOTOGRAPHY: SUPPLIED
(Above) The delicate and captivating butterly provides an enduring muse for Graff’s haute joaillerie (Below) More magic reflective of Van Cleef & Arpels’ devotion to poetic complications
THIS YEAR, the watch that has remained top of mind since its reveal at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie is Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lady Arpels Papillon Automate. True to the Maison’s mission to create jewellery that tells time, this piece features a gold and enamel butterfly at rest on a flower, literally fluttering its wings. If the watch is stationary, the wings will flutter 19 times at irregular intervals in an hour, totalling about 100 beats (double that if the watch is being used). The flutters continue while the watch is being wound via the crown, until the barrel has been fully charged, when the butterfly will automatically rest again. Only 20 to 30 pieces will be made of this exquisite piece housed in an 18ct white-gold case set with diamonds. The gold dial is set with round and pear-cut diamonds, blue and mauve sapphires, champlevé and paillonné enamel, mother-of-pearl and plique-à-jour. Fasten it with a blue alligator strap and white-gold pin buckle set with diamonds. The fragile butterfly also inspired the Graff Princess Butterfly secret watch, featuring the same highly complex invisible setting technique that makes the gemstones appear to float above the grid below. Each watch case is set in white gold with 66 baguette diamonds. The wings may be adorned with diamonds, sapphires, rubies or diamonds with sapphire detail. By contrast, the Audemars Piguet Diamond Outrage one-of-a-kind haute joaillerie timepiece
is bold and dramatic. Inspired by winter stalactites, it’s a cuff watch designed according to an ‘outrageous architecture’ that you won’t forget in a hurry either. The spikes range from 29,3m to 40mm in size and are snow set with diamonds. The full diamond version incorporates three baguettecut diamond points, invisibly set.
2017 P R I V A T E T I M E
21
NAUTICAL
OUT OF THE BLUE
WHILE RESEARCHERS continue to look to the power of the ocean for solutions to the sustainable provision of clean energy, Blancpain has joined forces with The Economist over the past four years to campaign globally for the development of a blue economy. Their annual World Ocean Summit, held in Bali in February 2017, saw the co-hosts announce the winner of the second Ocean Innovation Challenge, a competition focused on the development of new financial instruments. Dominique Benzaken, counsellor to the Seychelles Government, won for her innovation that allows ‘indebted island nations to swap part of their debt and issue “blue bonds” with very low interest rates in favour of small-scale sustainable initiatives proposed by local communities’. The Seychelles Blue Bonds project will now be a pilot for similar projects elsewhere. Watch manufacturers also take inspiration from the sea, some preferring to style their designs for above-water pursuits such as classic sailing. Officine Panerai has launched two new chronographs to mark its 13th sponsorship of the Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge, the leading international circuit for vintage craft: the Luminor 1950 PCYC Regatta 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio 47mm (1) and the Luminor 1950 Regatta PCYC 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Acciaio 44mm. While Panerai’s maritime links can be traced back to the early 20th-century precision instruments made for the Italian Navy, Romain Jerome’s association with the sea is neither military nor historic. Their designers, however, draw inspiration from nature to create a highly contemporary, artistic explosion of timepieces. The dials on their limitededition Steampunk 46 Auto Camo models (3) link to the transatlantic ships of the 20th century and the industrial era, with the propeller-shaped small second hand at 9 o’clock and the metal hex cap screws and satin-brushed gunmetal bezel with RJ ‘rough’ finish. Omega’s Seamaster Aqua Terra (5) sporty gents’ collection
22
P R I V A T E T I M E 2017
incorporates the brand’s ‘teak concept’ dials with their vertical lines that reference the wooden decks on luxury boats. Some of the models are equipped with Omega’s new Master Co-Axial calibres 8500/8501, anti-magnetic movements that boast the chronometric performance of their Co-Axial predecessors while resisting magnetic fields we encounter daily, even those greater than 15 000 gauss. We love the dial detail on the Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial Chronograph GMT, which features a GMT hand that rotates once every 24 hours so that the wearer can keep track of the hour in two time zones. The range includes three more models, differentiated by an annual calendar, Co-Axial chronograph, and day-date function. By contrast, Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon (4) references the deck of a ship with its finely crafted pin oak marquetry on the dial. Its technical prowess is evidenced by the patented time mechanism, inspired by a yacht’s boom, with ropes and winches working together to hoist the sails. Using super-strong yet ultra-fine nanowires for the ropes, a retrograde jumping hour device is used to drive the minute hand with two pulleys and two winches in gold. The dial displays the minutes on a spinel arc, with the golden boom drawn across to show exact time. Note the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. For something perhaps a little more frivolous, there’s Chopard’s Happy Ocean range (2). Ideal for ‘exploring the ocean floor, relaxing on a yacht or strolling on the sand’, the Happy Ocean has a unidirectional rotating bezel featuring a wave-shaped design for easier handling under water. Watery symbolism is everywhere, from the case back engraved with wave motif to the minute hand that glows at night or in dark. Five diamonds float around the dial like tiny bubbles. Even the straps feature a ripple motif, and are designed to withstand the effects of sand and water. The precious jewellery version comes in an 18ct white-gold case with a navy blue mother-of-pearl dial framed by a fixed bezel set with diamonds, sapphires and rubies or topazes.
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTYIMAGES.COM; SUPPLIED
What the sea holds – above and below – offers a rich bounty for skilled and inspired watchmakers. Words DEBBIE HATHWAY
AVIATION
POETRY IN MOTION At the very least watches inspired by aviators and their deeds are fine pieces of craftsmanship. At best they are symbols of wider, more exciting horizons. Words DEBBIE HATHWAY
‘THOSE MAGNIFICENT MEN in their flying machines’ have been the source of inspiration for watch designers since Louis Cartier created the Santos for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904. IWC Schaffhausen’s Mark II, designed so that pilots could more easily check the time while flying, was originally made for the Royal Air Force. Produced from 1948 onwards, it was used for more than three decades. Since 2006, the Maison has been releasing special editions of its Pilot’s Watches in honour of French poet and pilot Antoine de Saint-Exupéry with beautiful engravings on the case back. But is it the story or the design that seduces the buyer? Everyone is inspired differently when it comes to choosing a wristwatch. While manufacturers are not likely to favour one above the other, for some the story behind the watch is key to building and maintaining brand loyalty. History and heritage play their role in turning a fine timepiece into a symbol. This year, Zenith has added the Pilot Type 20 Extra Special to its Pilot collection, which draws inspiration from the onboard instruments that Zenith used to make in the early days of aeronautics. More than a century later, Pilot timepieces personify the freedom to believe in dreams and to embrace new horizons. Its 40mm case made from aged steel for a vintage look features a broad fluted crown, oversized luminescent numerals, a grained dial and an in-house ‘motor’, finished off with mustard, khaki, blue or burgundy oily nubuck straps with contrasting stitching. The so-called pilots’ watch category often incorporates timepieces with chronograph functionality. This is a favourite complication among watch lovers, its complexity varying from ‘simple’ stopwatch mechanics to more intricate creations that facilitate the measurement of distance via a tachymeter and aircraft take-off sequences via a flyback module. In 2017, Bremont released a limited-edition chronograph in celebration of Boeing’s 100th anniversary last year. Bremont’s cofounders, Nick and Giles English, both pilots, have forged a reputation for making high-quality, classic watches durable enough to withstand any pressure an aviator’s timepiece may have to endure. (In addition to its collaboration with The Boeing Company for the past decade, the British luxury brand has also been manufacturing watches for some of the most exclusive military squadrons in the world.) The Bremont Boeing 100 features Boeing’s winged totem logo on the ‘Boeing Brown’ vintage dial, the colour of choice for
22
P R I V A T E T I M E 2016
AVIATION
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTYIMAGES.COM; SUPPLIED
Pilots and planes have been the source of inspiration for watch designers since Louis Cartier created the Santos for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, and continue to inspire modern watchmakers today.
the cockpits of the older Boeing aircraft because of its relaxing influence. A carbon-fibre composite from the Boeing Dreamliner flying testbed aircraft ZA004 is incorporated in the crown of each of the 300 timepieces. Moving into the realm of aerobatics, the Colt Skyracer by Breitling has been designed to reflect the nature of the MXS-R ‘Skyracer’, a high-performance aircraft flown under Breitling colours in the Red Bull Air Race World Championship by rising aerobatics star Mika Brageot. An expression of youth, dynamism and winning spirit, the Colt retains all the qualities of its military background in producing a timepiece that is a champion of lightness, sturdiness, precision, legibility and shock resistance. On the wrist, the timepieces do their superb job of marking the hours but, in truth, there are other ways to track time. When these miniature artworks symbolise the traits we most admire and when they stand for a stellar lineage, then they fly their true colours.
2017 P R I V A T E T I M E
25
MOTORING
FAST DATING Supercars and extraordinary timepieces; it’s a game, set and match of the bold and the beautiful. Words JIM FREEMAN
MOTORING IS AN INDUSTRY where precision and excellence are measured in microns, while motor racing is a sport where wins and losses are determined by a thousand of a second. How surprising is it then that there is an almost ineluctable relationship between fast cars, racing and and watchmakers? Most racing fans know that Rolex is the official timekeeper for Formula One but what is less well known is that almost all of the teams in the top flight of the sport are aligned with watch brands. Hublot is part-sponsor of Sebastian Vettel and Kimi Räikkönen at Ferrari, while Bell & Ross does the same for Renault drivers Nico Hulkenberg and Jolyon Palmer. TAG Heuer dumped Team McLaren last year, after a relationship that began in 1985, and is currently partnering with Red Bull Racing. The space at McLaren was immediately taken up by Richard Mille: Daniel Ricciardo and Max Verstappen’s loss is Fernando Alonso and Jenson Button’s gain. Richard Mille is also official partner of the Nürburgring Classic, which took place from 16-18 June, with this year marking the iconic German racetrack’s 90th anniversary. Of course, in keeping with their alignment to the world’s most expensive sport, the products associated with Formula One carry hefty price tags. Richard Mille’s RM 50-03, the world’s lightest split-seconds tourbillon chronograph, retails at nearly R20 million.
26
P R I V A T E T I M E 2017 6
For that you get a mere 40g timepiece made from graphene, an incredibly strong material created by University of Manchester professors Andre Geim and Konstantin Novoselov in 2004. The ‘discovery’ earned the two colleagues the Nobel Prize for Physics six years later. Bell & Ross’s racing range comprises three watches. Manufacture of the ‘entry-level’ BR03-94 RS17 will be limited to 500 pieces priced at around R85 000 each, while the top-of-the-range offering from the Paris-based manufacturer, the BRX1 Tourbillon RS17, will cost in the region of R320 000. Only 250 of these colourful, skeletal watches will be created. Not only do luxury watch brands have relationships with Formula One teams, some have linked up with other team partners. One that springs to mind is Geneva-headquartered Roger Dubuis, which has joined forces with Italian racing-tyre manufacturer Pirelli in offering the ‘new and blue Excalibur Spider Pirelli with double flying tourbillon in a limited series of just eight pieces’. At prevailing Swiss franc-to-rand exchange rates, the Excalibur Spider Pirelli would cost a buyer (even if they could get their hands on one) just over R3.8 million. The association between watchmakers and motor racing began in 1971 when Enzo Ferrari approached Jack Heuer to provide timing equipment to his team. At this stage, the focus was not on Formula One but rather on the 24 Hours of Le Mans endurance race for sports cars. Heuer agreed to pay for the equipment but insisted that both Ferrari drivers carry his company’s logo on their overalls. Further, he said he would pay each driver CHF 25 000 a year and provide them with gold Carrera Chronographs ... in return they would have to visit the factory at La Chaux-de-Fonds near Switzerland’s border with France to collect their watches and pose for photographs.
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTYIMAGES.COM; SUPPLIED
Other watchmakers linked to motorsport are Rolex, with its sponsorship of the Rolex 24 At Daytona in the US, and Chopard of both Porsche Motorsport (official timekeeper since 2014) and the revived Mille Miglia Brescia-Rome round trip for classic and vintage cars. Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, himself a classic-car enthusiast, motivated the company’s involvement with the event: ‘People say that lovers of fine cars also have a great weakness for fine timepieces and vice versa. In both cases, sporting elegance and outstanding performance are especially important.’ Of course, a performance car marque would be nothing without a signature watch for owners and enthusiasts. So you have Richard Mille for Aston Martin, Breitling for Bentley, Blancpain for Lamborghini, Baume et Mercier for Shelby and Christopher Ward for Jaguar. Hublot designs and creates watches for Ferrari sports cars as well as the Formula One team.
One Hublot LaFerrari Titanium is currently for sale online for just under R18.5 million with the promise that the London seller will ship within six to 10 days. On reflection, it would seem that the relationship between timepieces and cars is more about precision than performance. Your car might be fast, your watch shouldn’t be.
Prices are based solely on prevailing dollar/sterling exchange rates and do not take import duties into consideration.
2017 P R I V A T E T I M E
27
SPORTS WATCHES
IN THE DEEP END Words DEBBIE HATHWAY
‘TIMING IS THE MOST important part of diving; it is vital,’ said Henri G. Delauze, pioneer of deep-sea diving, chairman and founder of Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises (Comex). ‘If you are diving for half an hour at 350 metres, you aren’t diving for 31 minutes, you’re diving for 29 minutes and 59 seconds.’ A Rolex publication dedicated to exploration recounts his history with the brand in developing diving watches through the often extreme underwater exploits of his firm. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller, which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year, is such an example. Developed to descend 610 metres into the deep, it was equipped with a helium escape valve developed by Delauze that prevented the build-up of gas inside the watch case that could force the crystal to pop off during decompression. In May 1968, Delauze achieved a record-breaking dive of 335 metres but because the decompression chamber he was in decompressed too fast, the effort nearly killed him. Fortunately he recovered but with it came the realisation that the significance of getting to 30 bar (roughly 300 metres) safely ‘was as – if not more – important than getting to the moon’. What’s more, timing the experience was crucial to avoid decompression sickness (the bends). The new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller launched this year at Baselworld is broader at 43mm and incorporates the new calibre
28
P R I V A T E T I M E 2017
3235 for the first time in a Rolex Professional category watch. Another first is the incorporation of a Cyclops lens on the crystal at 3 o’clock to improve readability of the date. For something a little more unconventional in style, have a look at the ‘funky colours’ of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore Diver non-chronograph models launched this year. Eye-catching combinations of dark blue and yellow (with easyto-switch-out rubber straps), white, lime green and tangerine orange feature a diving scale and zone from 60 to 15 minutes on the rotating inner bezel on the ‘Mega Tapisserie’ dial. White-gold applied hour markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating improve visibility in and out of the water. These timepieces are water resistant to 300 metres. Meanwhile, Blancpain has added a 38mm version of the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe to its range. First launched for men in 1953, and later for women, the vintage-inspired model reflects the blue of the ocean depths, with a steel bezel that features a blue ceramic insert and hour markers in Liquidmetal®, an alloy known for its deformation resistance and long-term stability. A luminescent dot on the watch bezel facilitates accurate alignment with the minute hand to define the start of a dive, while the second hand serves as an operating indicator underwater. This wristwatch is also water resistant to 30 bar.
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTYIMAGES.COM; SUPPLIED
If you dive, every second counts.
With timing top of mind, Audemars Piquet, Blancpain and Rolex have continually redeveloped, refined and reengineered their underwater timepieces for ultimate accuracy and safety
2017 P R I V A T E T I M E
29
Launched at Baselworld 2017, Bulgari’s Lucea Tourbillon II Gardino Paradiso from the high-end collection, is graced with a perfectly round case evocative of a sundial
IMAGINATION’S INFINITY CURVE Are watch complications limited by the size and composition of material and the hand of man – or is it only technology that stands between man’s imagination and future possibilities? Words DEBBIE HATHWAY
30
P R I V A T E T I M E 2016
EXTREME COMPLICATIONS
PHOTOGRAPHY: SUPPLIED
PHRASE FINDER’S Gary Martin traces the origin of ‘the sky’s the limit’ to before WW1, at a ‘time of optimism and progress’, finding its earliest citation in the New York newspaper, The Syracuse Herald, in September 1911. He imagines that the the expression passed into more common use because of the invention of the aeroplane, noting that it was the title of a Fred Astaire/Joan Leslie film at ‘another time of intense interest in powered flight’, in the middle of WWII (1943). This story is not about the link between watches and aviation and the immediate visible space above us, but rather an ode to the watchmakers and craftsmen who invent and reinvent haute horlogerie complications until one is driven to wonder what their limits might be. As we track NASA’s Cassini in its final dive to Saturn’s surface, it seems that neither the sky nor human inventiveness has limits at all. Of course, a wristwatch can be as simple or as complex as you wish. Some wearers will invest in something beautiful that tells the time (even if most refer to their mobile phones for that these days), while others, most likely collectors, will be driven to purchase by the number or type of complications built into the restrictive dimensions of a watch case. If it’s a limited edition, all the better. Those who fall into the latter category might be keen on Christophe Claret’s X-TREM-1, featuring a flying tourbillon set at a 30° angle, mounted on a 3-D curvex titanium mainplate, and equipped with a retrograde hours and minutes display system that
defies current watchmaking conventions. Limited to eight per model, we love watching the two tiny hollowed steel spheres move as if by magic, when in fact they are motivated by magnetic fields, enclosed in tubes on either side of the case band. For the Il Giocatore Veneziano, Bulgari’s artisans took inspiration from a 16th-century Venetian painting. Watch the player roll the dice in a possible 504 combinations, his arms lifting and lowering to reveal or conceal the dice when the minute repeater is activated. The dial is hand-painted and kiln-baked, enhancing the colours of the tableau, which includes ‘betting coins’ in solid gold. The Marine Équation Marchante 5887 continues the tradition set by Abraham-Louis Breguet and his son, who created the most elaborate equation of time models produced during an era that saw Breguet senior appointed ‘chronometer-maker to the French Royal Navy’ in 1815. This Grande Complication wristwatch combines superior craftsmanship with a sense of history that is almost tangible. It incorporates a running equation of time, which tracks the difference between mean solar time (the 24-hour day) and true solar time (actual solar hours and minutes) via two separate minute hands. Simply put, this can range from minus 16 minutes to plus 14 minutes. The times are the same on only two days a year. The self-winding movement incorporates a perpetual calendar, tourbillon and 80-hour power reserve indicator.
The Breguet Marine collection pays tribute to the brand’s rich marine heritage and, more on point, to Abraham-Louis Breguet’s contributions to marine chronometry
2017 P R I V A T E T I M E
31
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN
EYE LIGHTS IWC’s 2017 launches for the Da Vinci line build on a concept first released in 1969 and find their masculine lines have caught the eye of women buyers. Words DEBBIE HATHWAY
PHOTOGRAPHY: SUPPLIED
(Above) IWC Schaffhausen has returned to a round case for the Da Vinci collection, which was successfully established by the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar in 1985.
32
P R I V A T E T I M E 2017
AT THE SIHH THIS YEAR, Chris Grainger, IWC’s new CEO, and his predecessor Georges Kern, now the Richemont Group head of watchmaking, marketing and digital, field questions around IWC’s decision to focus on new launches for women when it is perhaps best known for its collections for men. ‘Female buyers of IWC watches are those who prefer more masculine brands,’ says Grainger, explaining that within the ladies’ segment IWC watches feature different stylistic cues. The Da Vinci offers a more formal interpretation, followed by the classic Portofino and the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36, which caters for sportier tastes. With the classic Portofino ‘doing very well’, the Maison is now looking to reinforce its female segment with new designs for the Da Vinci line. Whereas the Portofino takes its inspiration from the style favoured by the international jet set who frequent the former fishing village of the same name near Genoa, Italy, the 2017 Da Vinci releases reference the work of Leonard da Vinci. ‘When you have a good design, you make it evolve. We had a straight system, now we have lugs; the shape of the case is different; there are innovations on the movement… and we have made aesthetic and technical improvements,’ says Kerns. ‘We are not here to make fashion products, we are
The first-ever IWC watch was unveiled at Baselworld in 1969, and has constantly evolved since then, with stylistic changes as well as technical improvements over the years.
here to make sustainable products and the character of Da Vinci was very strong. We know from the response that this is what people want.’ As IWC grows with new customers, new products and new territories, Kerns stresses the need for intellectual agility. ‘You shouldn’t lose your compass. Know where you’re going as a brand. Be flexible with your team in order to adjust to situations. The market is changing, consumers are changing. Don’t underestimate the dynamics in the market today.’ It’s a reference to how IWC handles its communication to the world of watch buyers. Looking at the sales potential among millennials, Kerns points out that they are producing products that haven’t changed technically in 250 years. ‘We can produce a traditional product and be old, or we can produce a traditional product and be modern. It’s a question of image, communication, platforms… IWC is one of the most active watch manufacturers in social media and if you look at the results, it is clear that we reach many of them.’
*For more information, visit www.iwc.com.
DA VINCI HIGHLIGHTS 1969 – The first Da Vinci watch was unveiled at Baselworld, with a tonneau-shaped case containing the first quartz movement in Switzerland, the Beta21. 1985 – The Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar (direct inspiration for this year’s models) with its single button crown control put IWC on the haute horlogerie map. 2007 – The Da Vinci returned to its tonneau shape, with the Da Vinci Chronograph (Ref. 3764), the limited-edition Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Edition Kurt Klaus (Ref. 3762) and the Da Vinci Automatic (Ref. 4523), among the highlights of that year’s launches. 2009 – IWC produced the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month (Ref. 3761), the first flyback chronograph with a perpetual calendar, digital leapyear display and a digital display with large numerals for the month and date. 2017 – The Da Vinci line is relaunched in the familiar round case, containing new complications such as the Da Vinci Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph, which combines a tourbillon with retrograde date and sports chronograph on a single dial.
2017 P R I V A T E T I M E
33
JEWELLERY
WALLIS SIMPSON, the woman who infamously turned king from country, was also infamously one of the most talked about jewellery collectors in history. And, what she gathered was vast. So substantial in fact, that just part of her collection reached the highest world record price ($53.5 million when originally sold in 1987 by Sotheby’s in Geneva) for a single-owner jewellery sale ever conducted. The Wallis Simpson collection consisted of
SHIMMER AND SHINE The latest collections see designs inspired by captivating cities, ancient artefacts, and natural gemstones...
34
P R I V A T E T I M E 2016
HIGH JEWELLERY
SIMPLE GLAMOUR Amulette de Cartier is an enchanting collection of ‘lucky’ pieces symbolising a myriad of wishes. Its contrasting materials, including colourful and unique natural gemstones, unite simplicity and elegance to form the talisman’s polished curves. The Amulette de Cartier earrings are made from 18kt pink gold, malachite, white mother-ofpearl, and each pair is set with four brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.10ct. cartier.com
ANCIENT INSPIRATION The Bulgari bracelet in 18kt pink gold with mother-of-pearl and onyx is a timeless piece in the Bulgari jewellery collection. The brand’s logo was originally inspired by the inscriptions on ancient coins, and with its Roman roots, has grown into an elegant fusion of grace and modernity. bulgari.com
(Left) MYTHICAL CREATIONS The new haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie collection Secrets & Lights – A Mythical Journey by Piaget is inspired by two iconic cities on the legendary Silk Road: Venice and Samarkand. With a glittering creativity that combines all the brilliance of the jeweller’s art with the exacting standards of craftsmanship and high jewellery, the collection emanates an unrivalled radiance. piaget.com
INFUSED WITH COLOUR The Emotion collection by Fabergé continues to push the boundaries of design and craftsmanship for which the brand has become so well known. The bold and daring jewels illustrate the Fauvist movement of using colour as an emotional force and expression of feeling. The collection comprises abstract compositions of random pavé work in blocks of vibrant colour using the finest coloured gemstones. faberge.com
2017 P R I V A T E T I M E
35
ON A FINAL NOTE
BUYING TIME When it comes to an investment in time, it’s not just about what you can wear on your wrist.
ABRAHAM-LOUIS BREGUET, credited by the late watch collector Winthrop Kellogg Edey as ‘perhaps the most outstanding horologist of all time’, made his first carriage clock in 1796. Jckonline.com writes that the piece, known as Clock No. 178, ‘looks more like a golden treasure rescued from a sunken Spanish galleon than something you’d want to take to war’. That reference was to its purchase by Napoleon Bonaparte, who took it to battle in Egypt in 1798. Up for auction in 1991, Sotheby’s gave the quarter-repeating travel clock, housed in a gilt bronze case with Doric columns and glass panels, with its silver dial, large moon-phase display, and three windows for date, month and day of the week a presale estimate of $320 000 to $396 000. The highly innovative timepiece guided the technical
and aesthetic qualities of most carriage clocks produced in France throughout the 19th century and early into the next. It incorporated its eight-day movement of gilded metal, straightline lever escapement and two-pitch striking mechanism into dimensions of 111 x 79 x 57mm. Breguet built in a button on top of the case that could be pressed to make the clock strike the time to the last quarter hour when it was too dark to see the dial, while the alarm was set to calculate the desired number of hours for sleep rather than the time to rise. In 2015, the Breguet et fils, Paris, No. 179, was sold at Sotheby’s for CHF 422 500, far exceeding the auction house’s estimated range of CHF 350 000 to CHF 400 000. The Empire Ormolu quarter-repeating carriage clock, with its full-year calendar, alarm and moon phase with age of moon was eight years in production. It was first sold in 1804. Named for their portability, carriage clocks were designed to provide all the time-related information a wealthy traveller might need with a decorative handle on top for easy carrying. They were presented in a leather or leather-covered wooden case that could be secured inside the preferred mode of transport. Panels were plain, engraved or decorated, with more valuable models incorporating porcelain or enamel instead. A Bonhams auction in December 2016 listed a rare mid19th-century English brass giant carriage clock by Edward White at an estimated £15 000 to £25 000 (then R260 000 to R440 000). The timepiece featured an enamel dial and incorporated a running seconds complication. In July that year, one of White’s carriage clocks from the same period with chronometer escapement was sold by Bonhams for £27 300. Today, L’Epée is the only specialised Swiss manufacture dedicated to making high-end clocks. Founded by Auguste L’Epée in 1839 to make music boxes and watch components, the company built a reputation for exceptional table clocks, classic carriage clocks, contemporary design clocks and avant-garde horological sculptures such as those produced in collaboration with MB&F. Among L’Epée’s range are the Qatar clocks, which are designed to ‘stay timeless. Each one has its own personality and yet they all have in common the quest of being among the best’. *Visit lepee1839.ch to see more of their range and breguet.com to learn more about the greatest inventor in watchmaking history.
http://www.timezone.com/2014/03/17/breguet-clocks-andwatches-at-the-frick-collection/
36
P R I V A T E T I M E 2017
ILLUSTRATION THEODORE KEY
Words MARLENE BOUWER