Pigmentation

Brightening all the way

It’s well known that clients with darker skin will be more prone to hyperpigmentation, the result of increased melanin production.

Says Ursula Volbrecht of DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care: “The most common forms of hyperpigmentation are melasma, sunspots (i.e. liver spots), and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Melasma is believe to be caused by hormonal changes and may develop during pregnancy or with contraceptive use, while PIH is the result of injury or inflammation to the skin (e.g. acne).

“Tyrosinase is an enzyme that plays a vital role in the melanogenesis process, working to convert the protein, tyrosine, into melanin or pigment as we know it. Tyrosinase inhibitors such as sepiwhite, kojic acid, alpha arbutin and vitamin C work well to target both existing pigment within the skin, as well as helping to attenuate further pigment formation. In order to successfully target hyperpigmentation, one needs to understand that, as this concern is multi-faceted, no one single product will work in exactly the same way for everybody. DermaFix therefore offers a variety of skin correctives assisting with hyperpigmentation.” Vitamin C Volbrecht points out that vitamin C, as found within the DermaFix Vitamin C Serum, DermaFix ACC Vitamin C and DermaFix Ferulic + C + E, has long been touted as a preferred ingredient, helping to brighten the skin, whilst inhibiting further pigment formation by acting as a tyrosinase enzyme inhibitor. DermaFix ACC Tranexamic targets stubborn dermal pigment, including melasma, by inhibiting the growth of tyrosine, as well as the activity level of melanin, starting to ‘chip away’ at the hyperpigmentation from the edge inwards.

As a corrective moisturiser, DermaFix MelanoDerm acts as a pigment antagonist, helping to normalise pigment production in order to brighten the skin. It is especially beneficial in pre-advanced protocols to help suppress melanin response to stimulation.

DermaFix UltraBright is a fast-acting skin brightener for body-related hyperpigmentation concerns, incorporating alpha arbutin as a tyrosinase inhibitor, and tranexamic acid for its antiinflammatory and tyrosine growth inhibition properties.

Volbrecht points out that DermaFix Brightening Wipes offer a high potency additive for skin brightening and retexturising benefits. “They provide a combination of enzyme activated arbutin, kojic acid, vitamin c and Skin pigmentation disorders cause changes to the colour of skin and can be triggered by a number of factors, including sun exposure, hormonal influences, age and injuries to the skin.

salicylic acid in a unique delivery system helping to brighten the skin.”

As sun is the biggest contributing factor towards the formation of hyperpigmentation, she believes no hyperpigmentation routine is complete without the inclusion of a high-protection sunscreen, such as DermaFix DermaShield SPF40 / SPF50 for daily use, offering high UVA/UVB protection. DermaFix Ferulic + C + E can also be incorporated.

Focused treatment Environ Skin Care’s Focus Care™ Radiance+ range comprises four innovative products that work together to help inhibit the six complex steps involved in the formation of hyperpigmentation. The first step involves the MultiBioactive Mela-Prep Lotion, an expertly formulated combination of highly specialised ingredients for a brighter, more even-toned complexion.

For step two, the Vita-Botanical Mela-Fade Serum System is comprised of two serums that work together and boast a potent blend of vitamins and botanicals that assist in targeting the root causes of skin discolouration. The last step consists of the Intense C-Boost Mela-Even Cream. This technologically advanced vitamin C infused cream reveals a brighter, more evenly radiant and healthier looking skin.

Environ’s Vitamin Step-Up System™ should be used for at least 30 days before Radiance+. “Keep your skin rich in vitamin A because this is the most effective way to minimise your chances of getting pigmentation,” says Environ founder, Dr Des Fernandes.

Triple whitening action From Danish medical skincare brand, Beauté Pacifique, the Tyrostase Brown Pigment Equalizer is for use directly on hyperpigmented spots or, more systemic, to whiten dark skin and even-out blemishes. This lotion combines two herbal extracts and a special form of vitamin C into a unique triple whitening action. All three whitening ingredients have been clinically tested and result in a significant whitening effect. The product influences the enzyme, tyrosinase, which controls the synthesis of melanin and reduces the production rate of melanin and by partially reversing the synthesis. Ingredients include diacetyl boldine; retinyl palmitate (a particularly stable form of vitamin A); glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract; and sodium ascorbyl phosphate.

Eye colour Jacqui Faucitt of Régima notes that over many years of dealing with people who are prone to pigmentation, she has found it is not only the skin colour that dictates whether someone is likely to develop hyperpigmentation, but also the eye colour. “Even when someone is blonde or a redhead, with a lighter skin colour, if they have brown eyes, they are prone to develop hyperpigmentation.” She recommends the RégimA in-salon 50% Power Peels to treat pigmentation. “We have combined six natural acids into these fast acting, yet safe all year round, peels. They provide the renowned action of malic, lactic and citric acids with advanced peel technology, together with ingredients produced by biological engineering, using no exogenous chemicals. These include peach leaves, raspberry fruit extract and pyrus malus acid at 50% concentration, with added healing ingredients such as renowned Centella Asiatica.

Hibiscus flower From Six Sensational Skincare, the Brightening & Even Tone Booster Elixir Serum contains acids of the hibiscus flower that play a strong exfoliating role, thus increasing cell turnover. It also contains a strong lightening and whitening active.

The Six Brightening Enzyme Peel with papain enzyme oxygenates cells and fights bacteria, leaving the skin bright and smooth.

Also from Six, the Vitamin C Moistusiring Cream reduces levels of damaging free radicals, increases skin firmness, brightens skin tone and provides effective wrinkle reduction.

Hexylresorcinol Janssen Fair Skin Brightening Night Care is a light formula cream that contains hexylresorcinol, which inhibits tyrosinase. Hexylresorcinol also acts against fine lines, wrinkles and slackness. Brightening Night Care should be applied (avoiding eye area) each night after the 2-Phase Concentrate.

The Fair Complexion Serum from Janssen also has a high concentration of hexylresorcinol, making it an intensive skin brightening booster. PB