Professional Beauty South Africa

Page 44

Pigmentation

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Brightening all the way

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Skin pigmentation disorders cause changes to the colour of skin and can be triggered by a number of factors, including sun exposure, hormonal influences, age and injuries to the skin.

t’s well known that clients with darker skin will be more prone to hyperpigmentation, the result of increased melanin production. Says Ursula Volbrecht of DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care: “The most common forms of hyperpigmentation are melasma, sunspots (i.e. liver spots), and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Melasma is believe to be caused by hormonal changes and may develop during pregnancy or with contraceptive use, while PIH is the result of injury or inflammation to the skin (e.g. acne). “Tyrosinase is an enzyme that plays a vital role in the melanogenesis process, working to convert the protein, tyrosine, into melanin or pigment as we know it. Tyrosinase inhibitors such as sepiwhite, kojic acid, alpha arbutin and vitamin C work well to target both existing pigment within the skin, as well as helping to attenuate further pigment online @ probeauty.co.za

formation. In order to successfully target hyperpigmentation, one needs to understand that, as this concern is multi-faceted, no one single product will work in exactly the same way for everybody. DermaFix therefore offers a variety of skin correctives assisting with hyperpigmentation.”

Vitamin C Volbrecht points out that vitamin C, as found within the DermaFix Vitamin C Serum, DermaFix ACC Vitamin C and DermaFix Ferulic + C + E, has long been touted as a preferred ingredient, helping to brighten the skin, whilst inhibiting further pigment formation by acting as a tyrosinase enzyme inhibitor. DermaFix ACC Tranexamic targets stubborn dermal pigment, including melasma, by inhibiting the growth of tyrosine,

as well as the activity level of melanin, starting to ‘chip away’ at the hyperpigmentation from the edge inwards. As a corrective moisturiser, DermaFix MelanoDerm acts as a pigment antagonist, helping to normalise pigment production in order to brighten the skin. It is especially beneficial in pre-advanced protocols to help suppress melanin response to stimulation. DermaFix UltraBright is a fast-acting skin brightener for body-related hyperpigmentation concerns, incorporating alpha arbutin as a tyrosinase inhibitor, and tranexamic acid for its antiinflammatory and tyrosine growth inhibition properties. Volbrecht points out that DermaFix Brightening Wipes offer a high potency additive for skin brightening and retexturising benefits. “They provide a combination of enzyme activated arbutin, kojic acid, vitamin c and


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