Professional Beauty SA Oct 2022

It’s pretty much that time of year when we are all feeling weary after a gruelling year and looking forward already to our end of year holiday. To that point, it’s encouraging to hear, as reported in our lead news story, that salons are also looking forward to the holiday season, but for a different reason. They report a definite upswing in business ever since September and are optimistic about the summer months.

Talking of summer, clients will be all abuzz trying to get into bikini-ready shape for their holidays. That’s why we have included in this issue, a big focus on body contouring and sculpting. While nothing beats diet and exercise for shedding excess pounds, there are products and devices that can help fine-tune those unwanted bulges, as evidenced in our feature articles.

We always include some hair news in each issue of Professional Beauty and this time we focus on an innovative Johannesburg-based salon owner, who founded a franchise that has proved so successful that it is literally mushrooming and making inroads into other provinces. What is particularly interesting, apart from the unique concept and design that governs this franchise, is the company culture that is instilled in both staff and customers.

Joanna Sterkowicz

Editor – Professional Beauty

Publisher Mark Moloney mark@probeauty.co.za

Managing Director

Yolanda Knott 011 781 5970 yolanda@probeauty.co.za

Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 083 411 8512 joanna@probeauty.co.za

Marketing Executive Natasha Chisese natasha@professionalbeauty.org.za

Sales Consultant

Charlene Dickson 079 116 3262 charlene@professionalbeauty.org.za

Operations Executive Obey Dube obey@probeauty.co.za

Design

Saveer Sugreem

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IN

Salons encouraged by uptick in business

Following a rough two years due to the Covid-19 pandemic, South African beauty salons are finally experiencing a marked improvement in business.

Pieter Olivier of The Beauty Clinic East London reports that the last two weeks in September saw an uptrend in demand for treatments. He says: “This is because our therapists have been adhering to the well-known premise in business, which holds that 80% of new business comes from 60% of existing clients. They really do look after our clients and are successful in upselling treatments to them, most notably masks where the clients can see immediate results. In addition, our staff have gone out of their way to offer their clients discounts, or a free treatment if they buy products.”

Olivier notes that The Beauty Clinic has always stocked a vast number of different skincare brands – 9 in all – and that at this stage, retail turnover is higher than services have ever been, at 70% of total turnover. “We’ve found that clients who don’t come for treatments come into the salon just to buy products. Therapists have really been pushing the high end ranges. I am very optimistic about the holiday season.”

Cherene Ross, owner of The Beauty Box in Claremont, Cape Town, also experienced a ‘blossoming’ of business in September, to the extent that she is hiring an extra therapist to meet demand.

“We were fully booked this past week, with our therapists working flat out from 9 to 5, but they’ve welcomed it. So, at the rate that things are going now, we are really looking forward to the holiday season and I foresee getting back to our pre-Coved figures. What has helped is that I run five monthly specials with reduced prices – this draws people in and then they are so happy with the service that they come back for more.”

Retail is, however, another story. Ross has dropped right back on retail sales due to the high cost of purchasing product. She’s found that clients would rather spend on treatments than on products.

Monique Scheepers of Eloah in Centurion reports that ‘business has been looking good the past few weeks’. She continues: “This is especially true during the school holidays with lots of moms coming in for treatments. So, I am looking forward to the summer months. Retail has picked up recently, not very much, but a little bit.”

Helene Bramwell of the Mask Skin & Body Clinic has found business up and down. “But my staff and I are happy that we all still have jobs. The incessant loadshedding has been an issue – we do have an inverter but sometimes there is not enough time in between loadshedding sessions to fully re-charge it, so that negatively impacts on business.”

Franchises

Marketing executive of the Sorbet Group, Candice Thurston, reports that based on the performance of Sorbet stores (200 in total countrywide) in general over the past 6 months, the Group is optimistic in its growth outlook for the coming summer months.

“We believe that we have reached the end of the Covid recovery road, with the majority of our stores trading on par or exceeding pre-Covid figures,” she states. “However, retail growth has been slower than that of treatments due to the continued impact of the global supply chain challenges, inflation and changing consumer spending behaviour.”

Professional Beauty reached out to another leading salon chain, the i-BLOOM Group (formerly Imbalie Beauty Group), regarding their forecast for the coming season, but CEO, Esna Colyn, reserved comment until the group has completed its re-structuring process early next year.

Image by Tumisu from Pixabay

New hybrid injectable said to stimulate collagen production

A new treatment launched by Allergan Aesthetics is intended to provide an immediate lifting effect by combining HA (hyaluronic acid) with a sustained lifting effect from CaHA (calcium hydroxyapatite), which is known to help stimulate collagen.

HArmonyCa is Allergan’s first dual-effect product and is formulated for facial soft tissue augmentation via injection into deep dermal and sub-dermal layers of the skin.

According to Aesthetic Medicine Magazine, the cross-linked HA gel is mouldable to allow aesthetic practitioners to adjust the implant shape after injecting, while the CaHA microspheres work to support the body’s own collagen production, the loss of which occurs as we age and leads to wrinkle formation.

With HArmonyCa, ‘newly formed collagen fibres may be present as early as one week following treatment,’ says Allergan.

In a recent clinical study, 86% of 85 treated regions among 48 patients showed clinically significant improvement, with over 90% of patients registering an improvement in general appearance of facial areas treated with HArmonyCa. The study also demonstrated that the product has a low risk-benefit profile.

The majority of patients reported high user satisfaction (mean 4.1 out of 5) for overall satisfaction, and likeliness to repeat similar treatment up to 19 months after receiving HArmonyCa.

Says leading UK aesthetics practitioner, Dr Sophie Shotter; “The texture of the skin changes as we age, and laxity or sagging can become a problem. Hyaluronic acid may help by providing an immediate lift, while calcium hydroxyapatite may be used to improve facial skin architecture and is associated with a sustained lifting effect from new collagen production.

“The combination of HA and CaHA in one treatment is an exciting new option for patients and aesthetic practitioners alike.” (Source: Aesthetic Medicine Magazine)

Dopamine beauty trends on TikTok

Following the skinimalist and ‘clean girl’ make-up trend that was so popular in the pandemic, dopamine beauty is fast becoming the new make-up style of choice for many.

Characterised by fun, vividly colourful and even holographic in some instances eyeshadows, eyeliners and lips, dopamine beauty and/or dopamine make-up and/or dopamine glam is positioned as antiformulaic beauty and as a totally different way to apply make-up. Video sharing platform TikTok is full of loads ‘how to’ #dopaminemakeup videos demonstrating a plethora of wild and wacky designs.

The name stems from the fact that dopamine is the feel-good hormone that is released when we experience something that makes us happy. Bright colours and fun designs are associated with lifting the mood.

Rapper Doja Cat was recently seen sporting a variation of dopamine make-up, in that she shaved her eyebrows and replaced each with a thin, black pencilled line, punctuated in the middle by a red heart. She has also been sporting other more colourful and outrageous brow and eye art.

Photo by Gustavo Fring from Pexels

The legendary veteran British fashion and textile designer, Zandra Rhodes, has long been adorning her eyes and brows with rainbow make-up, to contrast with her shocking pink hair. (Sources: Premium Beauty News; refinery29.com)

Doja Cat (Instagram @dojacat)

Technological advances contribute to aesthetics boom

The rapid development of aesthetic technologies is revolutionising the beauty industry, while simultanously allowing the aesthetics sector to thrive.

This is according to leading South African plastic surgeon, Dr Kamlen Pillay, who notes that the Global Medical Aesthetics Market report shows that the market is expected to more than double between 2016 and 2024.

Pillay, who is also founder of the Specialist Laser and Cosmetic Institute (SCIN), continues: “Instead of invasive surgical procedures helping to keep ageing at bay, technological innovations and advances in non-surgical cosmetic procedures have become the norm, and are changing the way people approach medical aesthetics.

“As word gets out about how easy and affordable it is to, for example, get an anti-ageing injection, or to have your lips filled, or your facial creases softened, more and more people are embracing medical aesthetics.

“Technology has made the medical aesthetics industry less expensive and therefore more accessible to a wider, more mainstream audience. You no longer have to be rich to have cellulite reduced or wrinkles and facial lines filled.”

Dr Pillay explains that as larger companies drive technological innovation, this helps to increase demand in the aesthetics market. “Added to the reduction in costs, new technological advancements have made procedures shorter, allowing people to get results faster. Many procedures these days are done within an hour, if not within minutes, and some are allowing patients to see rapid – if not instant – results.”

You can spend weeks and months putting on facial creams, hoping for some results, or you can go into an aesthetics clinic and get age spots lasered off after a couple sessions, or have wrinkles erased with anti-ageing injections, and have stubborn fat toned in a fraction of the time.”

The effect of PCOS on acne and hirsutism

September having been PCOS Awareness Month put the focus on raising awareness of polycystic ovary syndrome, a genetic, hormone, metabolic and reproductive disorder that affects 1 in 10 women globally.

Says the team from Lamelle Research Laboratories: “PCOS is still one of the most underdiagnosed conditions around. So much so that, of those who have it, only 1 in 3 will be diagnosed. PCOS tends to fly under the radar because the signs can be easy to miss or attributed to something else. In fact, some of the symptoms are so common that you’d be excused for thinking they were just part of your hormonal cycle (think regular breakouts, for example).

“It’s important to be aware of the condition and its symptoms, especially since getting the right treatment can be life-changing. While there is no ‘cure’, there are ways to treat PCOS so that those who have it can overcome their symptoms, as well as prevent or reduce their risks of developing related diseases such as diabetes, obesity and endometrial cancer.”

The Lamelle team point out that when you have PCOS, you are likely to have high levels of the hormone androgen (known as hyperandrogenism). This causes the glands in the skin to produce an excess of oil (sebum), which can

lead to clogged pores and inflammation, resulting in acne.

Another symptom of PCOS is hirsutism, or excess facial and body hair, which grows in a male-like pattern. Women may notice dark hair growth on their face, chest and back. This excess hair growth arises from excess male hormones (i.e. androgen and testosterone).

Photo by ShotPot from Pexels

Photo by Dr Adel from Pexels

A recent trend identified by the GWI (Global Wellness Institute), ‘dirty wellness’ is described as ‘the new nature economy’ and is set to impact the wellness and fitness industries.

As per a GWI trends report, ‘getting down and dirty in nature is crucial to overall wellness’. The report notes that the health of the world’s soil, and likewise the impact of soil exposure on human health, have now become far more critical.

Says the report: “Soil is our planet’s most extraordinary ecosystem, a living microbial stew that for millions of years did its job: from cycling nutrients to plants to capturing vast amounts of atmospheric carbon. For 99% of human evolution, people lived deep in soil, as foragers and farmers. Now we’re soil-deprived, no longer bathing in that bacterial and fungal richness. Yet mounting research indicates that soil exposure has an eye-opening impact on everything from immune to mental health. Industrial agriculture has decimated the world’s soil and the soil crisis is here.”

The ‘dirty wellness’ trend explores how a soil-restoring regenerative agriculture will become a hot topic in wellness: from “regen-certified” becoming the next food label (far more meaningful than organic) to more wellness brands moving to regen-sourced ingredients. Spas and wellness centres may start to offer guests some form of ‘soil bathing’ in a new microbial architecture creating indoor spaces teeming with healthy soil microbes.

In terms of the future, the GWI expects to see more creative, soulful nature-meets-movement experiences: from wild swimming to jaw-dropping walks. It notes that the new farm-wellness resort, Heckfield Place, in the UK offers a whole slate of farm-focused wellness and fitness experiences, from a “Farm Fit” circuit that has you jumping over hay bales and milk churns, to forest meditation. (Source: https:// globalwellnessinstitute.org/press-room/press-releases/ eight-global-wellness-trends/)

Granny Mouse Spa wins international accolades

The 2022 Haute Grandeur Global Hotel Awards has recognised Granny Mouse Country House & Spa with an Excellence Award for Best Spa Hotel in South Africa.

Granny Mouse also recently scored the Most Charming Country Hotel – KwaZulu-Natal award in the Hospitality Awards 2022, hosted by LUXlife.

Says Granny Mouse general manager, Sean Granger: “Winning this award and being recognised and acknowledged by the team at LUXlife is a real honour. It’s an incredible feather in our cap, and a true testament to our entire team and our ethos of being a home away from your home for our guests. We are delighted to share this awards news to all those who have supported us over the years.

“One of the perks of choosing Granny Mouse Country House as your next getaway destination is our on-site spa. Located alongside the rustling of large, established oak trees and the sound of running water, our spa is certainly a cut above the rest, offering premium treatments and signature packages, and hydro facilities that include a steam room, jacuzzi and a hydrotherapy bath.”

Granger notes that like many tourism entities worldwide, Granny Mouse has chartered an ‘incredibly rough path’ over the past two years. “This type of recognition is what makes all the tough times worthwhile,” he concludes.

Last year Granny Mouse was crowned Best Country Hotel in the MEA (Middle East & Africa) at the Markets Business Awards.

Photo by Muffin Creatives from Pexels

‘Dirty wellness’ explained

Our experts answer questions around all aspects of the industry

What is COIDA and how does it impact me as a salon owner?

he Compensation for Occupational Injuries and Diseases Act (COIDA) established a compensation fund under the control of the Director General of the Department of Employment and Labour. In practice, the Director-General delegates his or her functions to the Compensation Commissioner.

Any compensation claimed for occupational injuries or diseases that an employee might have had against an employer is replaced by insurance coverage, in order to guarantee reasonable remuneration or income for employees who have suffered a workplace injury or occupational disease.

COIDA provides for coverage on a no-fault basis, meaning that the employee (or his or her dependant) will be compensated regardless of whether the employer was at fault in causing the injury or disease. Employers are expected to register and pay assessments to the Compensation Fund.

It’s worth noting that employees are prevented from suing their employers for damages suffered as a result of an occupational accident or disease – they must claim from the Compensation Fund. However, employees who are employed by labour brokers are not prevented from suing the clients of the labour brokers if they are able to prove negligence. COIDA defines an ‘accident’ to mean ‘an accident arising out of and in the course of an employee’s employment and resulting in a personal injury, illness or the death of the employee’.

COIDA provides extensive coverage to most employees, including casual employees, domestic workers, labour broker employees and, in the case of a deceased employee, his / her dependants. Independent contractors and self-employed workers are, however, excluded.

Categories

Compensation Fund benefits are paid to three categories of claimants:

1. Employees who suffer a temporary disability (maximum period of 24 months);

2. Employees who are permanently disabled (a lump sum is paid if the percentage disability is 30% or less; otherwise a regular (pension payment) is made); and

3. The dependants of employees who die as a result of injuries sustained in work-related accidents or as a result of an occupational disease.

Reasonable medical aid expenses arising out of an injury on duty are payable for a period of two years, or longer if further medical treatment will reduce the extent of the disablement.

Photo by Karolina Grabowska from Pexels

An employer MUST REGISTER with the COMPENSATION COMMISSIONER within SEVEN DAYS AFTER the day on which he / she EMPLOYS HIS / HER first employee.

Getyour mojo back thissummer

BUSINESS TIPS

Obligations

COIDA places extensive obligations upon all employers in South Africa. These include:

• Registration with the Commissioner;

• Submitting annual wage returns;

• Paying assessments; and

• Reporting all accidents and occupational diseases to the Commissioner.

Employers must pay employees who are temporarily disabled their compensation for the first three months of absence from work (which will be reimbursed by the Fund).

The failure to perform any of these functions is a criminal offence and extensive penalties may be imposed in cases of non-compliance.

receiving a Covid-19 vaccine, only where an employee is required by the employer to receive vaccination as an inherent requirement of employment or where vaccination is required based on the Occupational Health and Safety risk assessment conducted by the employer.

The following requirements shall apply:

• The vaccination must be regarded as an inherent requirement of the job as determined by the employer’s risk assessment;

• The employee must have been vaccinated with SAHPRA-approved Covid-19 vaccine;

• Evidence must be provided of the employer’s Risk Assessment and Vaccination Plan as set out in paragraph 3(1)(a)(i)(ii) and (b) of the Consolidated Directions on Occupational Health and Safety Measures in Certain Workplaces dated 28 May 2021.

The chronological sequence between the vaccine inoculation and the development of symptoms and clinical signs must be provided.

• The employee must have presented with symptoms and clinical signs that are generally recognised as side effects of Covid -19 vaccine; and

• Additional tests may be required to assess the presence of abnormalities of any organ affected.

Diseases

There is great difficulty in proving that an employee contracted a disease as a result of the type of work he or she was performing or from working in a particular workplace. Schedule 3 of COIDA lists the most common occupational diseases to address this issue. Employees who contract unlisted work-related diseases are required to prove that the disease is related to their work in order to receive compensation. The calculation of compensation for a disease may be based on earnings at the time of the commencement (i.e. the diagnosis date) of the disease.

If an employee believes that he or she has been injured in the workplace or as a result of a working condition, a claim can be filed with the Compensation Commissioner who will evaluate the claim against a schedule of common workplace injuries and diseases. An employee must provide some documentation from approved medical practitioners to support his or her claim.

Various Workman’s Compensation Insurance (W.CI.) referral forms need to be completed and submitted to the Compensation Commissioner, depending upon whether the employee has experienced an occupational injury or disease. If the claim proves successful, the employer is liable for the payment of compensation for the first three months from the date of the occupational injury.

Covid-19 and vaccinations

With reference to Covid-19 and vaccinations, during August 2021, the Compensation Commissioner published a notice stating that the Compensation Fund will cover employees for injuries, illness or death as a result of

COIDA PROVIDES extensive COVERAGE to most EMPLOYEES, including CASUAL EMPLOYEES, DOMESTIC WORKERS, LABOUR BROKER EMPLOYEES and, in the case of a DECEASED EMPLOYEE, his / her dependants. INDEPENDENT CONTRACTORS and self-employed workers are, however, EXCLUDED.

Compulsory

It is compulsory for all employers to register their employees with the Compensation Commissioner. An employer must register with the Commissioner within seven days after the day on which he / she employs his / her first employee. An employer must register with the Commissioner by submitting Form W As 2 with the particulars required therein to the Commissioner. These forms are available on the website of Department of Labour.

Employers must make sure that they fill in all the questions on the form. During registration copies of the following documentation should be included:

• The registration certificate from the Register of Companies if they are a company or closed corporation; or

• Their ID document, if they are sole owners of the business.

The above article was penned by the EOHCB (Employer’s Organisation for Hairdressing Cosmetology Beauty). To make contact with the EOHCB go to www.eohcb.co.za

Photo by lil artsy from Pexels

How can add-on services benefit my salon business?

Add-on services can position your salon business as the place to go for a variety of treatments and services that cater to a diverse clientele.

One approach is to highlight your add-on services to ensure you tailor treatments to individual client needs. Treatments can be mixed and matched according to your client’s current skin concern and adapted within a course.

Add-on treatments will enhance a client’s experience and can be marketed as standalone (as a lunch-hour or express treatment, for example) or as part of an extended treatment. They are costeffective as they help to increase your revenue without compromising on treatment time. Work out your costs carefully – for any add-on services, make sure you calculate the costs at time and a half.

To market your add-on services, capture your audience appropriately. More mature clients may be less tech or social media savvy. Therefore, they will require a different strategy – like direct mail or a phone call – when it comes to communicating promotions and add-on treatments that may be of interest to them.

Always ensure your messaging is personalised and inclusive. Offer a complimentary taster session for clients to experience an add-on treatment without commitment – think of it like test-driving a car.

Dean Nathanson is the managing director of

a manufacturer

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retailBoosting sales AND getting smart with displays

Business expert Diana van Sittert reveals some important sales and display strategies

efore attempting to ramp up retail sales, you should first understand your customer’s psyche. You can create a fresh look in your business by simply rearranging the way you display things, so before we get into the meat of the subject, you need to understand that customers subconsciously get excited or bored by using their 5 senses.

Note the following statistics:

• 83% of people buy purely based on sight

• 11% buy based on what they hear in their environment

• 3.5% buy based on touch

• 1% buy based on taste

Looking at the above figures, it’s clear that if you do not stimulate all 5 senses, the campaign to attract and retain customers diminishes significantly.

Sight – the most importantbuying stimulator

First ask yourself what ambiance you want to create in your space. Most salons will use words like ‘relaxing’, ‘serene’ and ‘calm’. Now let’s break this down with some ideas.

Relaxing

• Warm, neutral colours are the best ways to achieve this.

• Use texturised materials like, for example, a cosy blanket thrown over a chair. Do this in both summer and winter as it is purely for aesthetic purposes.

A SURE-FIRE WAY to ensure the SUCCESS OF A NEW PRODUCT or brand in your salon IS A ‘PLAY STATION’.

• When it comes to retail, you need to showcase a story and how the customer will be able to use the product at home. The best way to do this is to create ‘story areas’ in your salon, for example display travel size products at reception and bathroom use products (like hand washes and hand creams) in your bathroom. Whatever you do, NEVER display products you do not sell.

• The wonderful thing about professional retail brands is that they have already created a story for you, so all you need to do is pack it correctly and add elements to bring the brand story to life. A brand could easily look

Photo by Lindsay Cash on Unsplash

underwhelming because of its packaging, but simply highlight the main ingredient and elevate the product with display blocks, which are very affordable at any plastic supplier. In this way you can make the brand offering look classy, serene and calm, which links well with the overall aesthetic in your salon.

Hearing – the 2ND mostimportant buying stimulator

Does the music you play in your salon link with the ambiance you want to create? There are multiple companies that can create a playlist for you, based on your needs but to be honest, you can easily do this yourself by simply searching and downloading music from iStore or Google Playstore. Please make sure to build your list over time and change it up as your customers will not appreciate listening to the same thing repeatedly.

ALWAYS PACK PRODUCTS in ORDER OF USAGE i.e. Cleanser, Toner, Serum, Day Cream and keep ‘weekly’ AT HOME TREATMENTS in their OWN CATEGORY.

Touch – the 3rd most importantbuying stimulator

A sure-fire way to ensure the success of a new product or brand in your salon is a ‘play station’. For this, you do not need an entire tester stand which ends up being expensive; rather ask your supplier for a ‘Buy 1, get 1 free’ deal display.

Elevate and highlight this new product (or even a product for which you want to boost sales) by displaying it attractively in an area where people tend to browse around, i.e. reception area, treatment rooms. etc. It is imperative that you have a sign or sticker on the product that says, “Try me’, with the summarised benefits and promotional price listed on it.

Taste – the 4th most importantbuying stimulator

This might sound strange as how can you ‘taste’ a skincare product? Well, you can’t, which is why taste is not meant literally in this context. But what a bonus for your clients for them to be able to relax with a fantastic cappuccino, green tea, wine or champagne.

The moment you focus all your marketing strategies on your customers’ senses, their engagement increases. They will want to come into the salon more often and they will

want to spend more, as any person that appreciates your efforts does so subconsciously by supporting you through giving back. In the business world that ‘thank you’ often translates to money.

A few more tips

Most suppliers will either have a branding guideline or merchandising guideline to assist you with displaying product in the most attractive way. They may also have deals available where, if you purchase to a certain amount, they will supply you with posters, brochures, etc. So, how can you make this even more attractive? How about displaying a poster in a frame on an easel instead of against the wall?

Always pack products in order of usage i.e. Cleanser, Toner, Serum, Day Cream and keep ‘weekly’ at home treatments in their own category. This reduces customer confusion and makes them think the range is more affordable.

Keep your retail displays well lit, as they need to pop in comparison to everything else you see in the salon.

Believe it or not, most people are too scared to ask, ‘How would I use this?’, so take the guesswork out of it and use displays to educate people whilst they are browsing.

So, in summary, create a space that attracts the eye and steer clear of the typical salon look. The more different your salon looks, the more feet you will get through the door.

After achieving her Diploma in Somatology, Diana van Sittert worked as a beauty therapist before venturing into sales and training. She has trained over 29,000 therapists, business owners, doctors and dermatologists and in 27 countries. Van Sittert further delved into product formulations and brand development and has worked for Placecol, Nimue, Dermalogica, pHformula, 365skinworkout, SkinPhD and now, Lime Light Distribution.

Photo by Atikah Akhtar from Pexels

The ‘Great Movement’

– are you taking part?

f I had to ask what you do in your salon or spa, what would you answer?

Seems a silly question right? Your answer would be something like: “We offer a variety of treatments ranging from facials to massage and different types of wellness services or aesthetic services.”

The world has moved on from that and the ‘Great Movement’ is happening right now. This is in response to the consumer of the post pandemic world, which is such an exciting place to be right now since our industry is top of the list in demand.

So, what exactly is the ‘Great Movement’? Well, it’s the shift from having treatments to prevention. The consumer is now focused on what they can do to prevent all sorts of things and most of these lead back to our industry. Let’s look at a few examples.

Spa consultant Marisa Dimitriadis looks at a big shift that is shaking up the industry

Image by Amy Malcom from Pixabay

Prevention of wrinkles is now top of mind for people as young as 20 and they are focused more than ever on preventing wrinkles from setting in, rather than trying to find a way to soften them or get rid of them.

Top of mind for men and woman in the sports, business and fitness space is the prevention of aching muscles, or prevention of increased cortisol levels leading to intense stress. Consequently, they are now having regular massages and services to prevent stress rather than try and reduce the stress once it has set in.

Prevention of acne/ breakouts is huge in the teen space. In fact, in the teen space they are looking for ways to prevent any spots from forming the second they see one spot or an oily patch on their skin. They are on the hunt for skincare treatments and products to prevent acne rather than trying to get rid of breakouts.

Massive in the ‘Great Movement’ is the prevention of cellulite. This is a huge opportunity as most woman from as young as 15 are concerned about cellulite, so you have a captive market from the ages of 15 to 60 to serve here.

Impact on industry

This new movement translates into a huge opportunity for the industry but you need to act quickly, implement a strategy and train your staff on how to meet the needs of the prevention movement.

So, here are a few ideas to get you started.

1. I dentify your current clients’ biggest pain points. Do this with your team as they are the ones doing the treatments. Write down what the main pain points being treated are.

2. C reate (another word for prevention) packages for each pain point; perhaps three packages and be sure to include homecare in one of the packages. These packages consist of a 6-month programme, detailing which treatments are done in that 6-month period and what homecare is used in that time.

3. Train your team on how to offer and discuss these packages with their clients.

Role play is your best friend here.

4. I nclude rewards with the packages, so the bigger the package, the better the rewards and added value.

5. I nclude free tips with each package, e.g. good supplements to take to support acne/ breakouts prevention and good foods to eat to support skin health etc.

6. Partner with another professional who can add value and also get some benefit out of the relationship. For example, if you are doing a cellulite prevention package, then team up with a personal trainer for one session included as part of the package to give ideas on exercises to prevent cellulite and that provider can in turn use the opportunity to get business too.

With that in mind, welcome to the ‘Great Movement’.

Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder and owner of The Spa Consultants and a co-founder of The Spa Professionals Guild.

Email marisa@spaprofessionalsguild.com

Albert Einstein once said: “A clever personsolves a problem, a wise person avoids it.”

As Desiderius Erasmus said, “Prevention is better than cure.”

The beauty democracy

he fact that diversity and inclusivity has been a growing directional trend in the cosmetics industry for the past decade shows that it is not a passing fad to be leveraged for virtue signaling. Brands that want to stay relevant must make an authentic commitment to the rapidly evolving consumer landscape.

Scroll through your social media feed and you will see the launch of a new skincare or make-up product hashtagged with a brand name by a bevvy of beauties. All lip-filler smiles, tousled hair extensions and cisgendered Kylie Jenner-clone influencer types. Brands are selling the latest product line by having twenty-somethings with the obligatory 20-200k follower count. Relatable? South Africa is a reflection of the global village in that there are many shades of people, not only on the racial spectrum, but also on the age and gender binary spectrums. Why do local

marketing campaigns and media events have a definitive slant towards an extremely narrow demographic to the exclusion of other consumers?

Trailblazer

Any conversation on this topic would be amiss without credit to MAC Cosmetics as the trailblazer of diversity and inclusivity, and which opened its first store in Toronto, Canada with the iconic slogan: ‘All Ages, All Races, All Sexes’. With a little help from Madonna wearing Russian Red lipstick for her ‘Blonde Ambition Tour’, this was an early example of the power of celebrity endorsement. The brand become a global powerhouse, featuring campaigns with legendary drag queen RuPaul and transgender icon, Amanda Lepore. MAC remains steadfast on inclusivity to this day. It took over three decades for the rest of the industry to follow suit. As far as catering for a variety of complexions, only Fenty can match MAC, offering 50 shades.

Ryno Mulder

As the MAC motto perfectly embodies, inclusivity implies more than racial demographics. It also encompasses those that the tyranny of an industry that had long been dictated to by the patriarchy, had excluded. This includes mature people and the LGBTQ+ community. Older consumers were certainly targeted, with the anti-ageing message that you have to stay looking as young as long as possible or you will become invisible. And so consumers’ insecurities are exploited for profit, with heavily airbrushed images of mature celebrities touting facelifts-in-a-potion.

Authentic approach

New beauty marketing embraces ageing and has a more authentic approach to beauty. Bobbi Brown led the way with a naturalistic approach to beauty. Influencer turned make-up mogul, Huda Kattan, surprisingly spoke out against toxic standards and campaigns that Photoshopped faces and bodies to impossibly perfect standards. Kattan’s ads now show her scars and imperfections.

Dutch YouTuber, Nikkie de Jager (aka Nikkie Tutorials), became famous for her video, ‘The Power of Make-up’, but inadvertently turned into a figure for the body positivity movement as well as transgender visibility. Similarly, the popularity of non-binary personalities like Jeffree Star put men in make-up at the forefront.

Diversity in beauty should never be a marketing gimmick. Brand credibility will depend on listening to consumer needs and brand campaigns that reflect our progressive society in an affirming manner. Inclusion is an ongoing and essential journey.

With his striking gender-fluid style, Ryno Mulder is one of South Africa’s most recognised male style influencers. As a professional make-up artist, former cosmetics brand manager and respected beauty editor, Mulder is one of the most experienced and credible influencers today.

Diversity and inclusivity in the beauty industry are making strides but are brands genuinely committed to change, or are they simply rainbow-washing? Inclusivity is not optional, writes non-binary celebrity make-up artist Ryno Mulder

Top tips for a standout CV

1Tailor it to the role

Of course, experience is important for employers to know about. Sara Orme, Eden Hall Day Spa’s leisure and spa manager, recommends choosing which elements of your experience to include dependent on the particular role you’re applying for.

“Pull out the skills from your current role that would be useful in the role that you are applying for. Always keep it relevant,” she advises. Make sure you do your research. “Look at the treatments the spa provides and highlight the skills needed,” Orme adds. “Don’t focus on treatments that are not provided.”

2Talk about training

Don’t forget to add in information about any training you have undertaken.

“This can be in addition to your therapy skills, for example, training courses or qualifications in customer service or dealing with people with learning difficulties and physical disabilities,” shares Tara Moore, head of spa operations at Galgorm.

Like many managers, Moore encourages her team to continue to expand their knowledge. “I am passionate in encouraging continuous learning and development, so this is something that I would be interested to see in an application.”

3

Don’t forget a cover letter

Cover letters are a great way to introduce yourself and your experience to a potential employer. They should include two main topics: why you’re passionate about the role and company you’re applying for, and why you’d be the perfect candidate.

Keep it short – no more than a side of A4 – and use it to allow your potential employers to get to know you. Natalie Wood, owner of The Pink Shed, which won Professional Beauty’s Employer of the Year 2022 Award, always looks for a cover letter when screening applicants.

“It should be a short, snappy, bespoke response to why they have applied to my business and why they would be a great addition,” she advises.

4Add a personal touch

When applying for a competitive role, remember it’s the little things that help you stand out from the crowd. “If you’re applying to a local business, pop in and make yourself known to the manager,” suggests Wood. “Immediately you can get a feel for someone, and it’s made clear that they are keen.

“I’ve even occasionally had phone calls with the therapist introducing themselves and saying they have sent their CV over,” she adds. “This shows confidence.”

Another way to add a personal element is by including information about why you’re passionate about the industry – this can be through an ‘about me’ section on your CV or included in your cover letter.

For Moore, the ‘why’ is important when screening potential hires. “Tell the recruiter or manager why you have made the decision to train in this profession,” she says. “Not only will this help an employer understand your passion for the industry, it is also an excellent opportunity to weave in elements of your personality.”

*This article was first published in the September 2022 issue of Professional Beauty UK.

A good CV is a vital part of applying for your next job in the industry. Lollie Hancock asks leading beauty recruiters what makes a candidate stand out

Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

The new science behind aromatheraphy

here are many chemical constituents – such as terpenes, esters, aldehydes and alcohols – that make up an essential oil, and each oil and each harvest may have a variation in the levels of its component parts. In recent decades, much work has taken place in extracting specific molecules under detailed laboratory conditions, identifying what properties these molecules and compounds have and what impact they have on the body’s health and wellbeing.

Clinical trials have taken place globally, and plant compounds such as limonene, alpha-pinene, beta-caryophyllene and many more have revealed their positive therapeutic properties. The more we research, the more we discover the wealth of untapped plant compounds that are found in nature for us to use. Those of us in the position of formulating with nature’s riches are reminded that these sources must be respected and nurtured, not overharvested and depleted. We must

remember to replenish these plants in order to benefit from them for future generations.

Terpenes, for example, are the largest group of aromatic chemical constituents found in essential oils. They have medicinal properties varying from anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, analgesic, antispasmodic, astringent and diuretic qualities. Terpenes are widely recognised as valuable potential natural plant remedies and have been used in traditional medicines for many years. Their medicinal properties have been tried and tested through many medicinal testing criteria, including the use of in vitro studies. Limonene is just one terpene found in many plants but most commonly in citrus fruit oils, and is a perfect mood lifter. It is also a strong antimicrobial ingredient and can be used in spas and clinics as a preventative measure by diffusing citrus oils high in limonene.

Esters are another common chemical component found in aromatic oils and plant extracts. They are oxygenated hydrocarbons and are anti-fungal, calming, antispasmodic, gentle in action, non-toxic and incredibly easy to use. Esters tend to be very fragrant, fruity and are named after their constituent parts, so ending in ‘yl’ and ‘ate’.

Examples of these valuable chemical compounds are linalyl acetate, found in lavender and clary sage, and ethyl cinnamate, found in cinnamon oil. Anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory and topical vulnerary therapeutics make esters a perfect ingredient for remedial facial serums and creams. Esters are also used a lot in perfumery and signature fragrances because of their wonderful aroma profiles.

Clients will benefit immensely from these raw materials being included in treatment protocols for use in spa and at home.

Kim Lahiri is an expert formulator and aromacologist at aromatherapy brand Trelonk Wellbeing.

Expert formulator and aromacologist Kim Lahiri unpacks the latest developments in aromatheraphy and how they can benefit your guests’ well-being

Shape up or ship out

It is estimated that 90% of women have cellulite, where fat, fluids and toxins are trapped under the skin. As a result, fat is compressed and circulation hampered, causing an unsightly orange peel effect. Here are some topical treatment solutions

Thalgo

Thalgo’s Integrative Slimming Range has two technologies to tackle cellulite and firmness. The first is the Slimming Complex – Oxy Active Technology – with active ingredients brown algae (fucus) and the powerful herb plant, coleus forskohlii. Fucus algae reactivates cell respiration and promotes a supply of oxygen by stimulating cellular energy, whilst the coleus plant increases the dilation of compressed blood vessels, therefore increasing circulation to combat cellulite.

Active oxygen increases the penetration and efficacy of these active ingredients. They increase lipolysis (the fat release from adipose/fata cells) and have a natural ‘fat burning’ effect by triggering the combustion of stored lipids.

Thalgo’s Complete Cellulite Corrector treats the orange peel effect (Grades 1 & 2 Cellulite) using the Slimming Complex, combined with red algae to drain excess fluids from the tissue. The Expert Correction for Stubborn Cellulite reduces stubborn Grade 3 Cellulite using the Slimming Complex and Pipperine (from pepper) to dislodge stubborn fat and increase the effects of the Slimming Complex.

Lilian Terry

From Lilian Terry International, the Cellu Set (Cellu One, Two and Three) is one of the brand’s top sellers for good reason. This all-encompassing cellulite treatment doesn’t just treat the outer appearance of cellulite but works to address the inner, root cause of it. Whether it’s due to hormonal imbalance, poor circulation and/or lymphatic drainage, build-up of toxins within the tissues, sluggish metabolism, stubborn fatty deposits or a combination of these – this range of three massage oils may assist, naturally. These complexes are also very popular for use in slimming treatments.

Patricia Clarke

The Patricia Clarke Body Contouring Anti-Cellulite Gel is hypoallergenic, visibly reduces the appearance of cellulite and has amazing firming properties. It remains active for up to 8 hours, is non-sticky and easily absorbed.

This gel contains 16 active ingredients including papaya extract, pineapple extract, retinol, green tea, guarana and many more. The gel offers effective centimetre loss, is 100% vegan and is not tested on animals.

The retail home care range is the all-day, everyday solution to quick and easy centimetre loss and body contouring and maintains contouring results achieved with any in-salon treatment.

Furthermore, the Heat Maximizing Neoprene range increases the body’s fat burning process and some clients have noted gradual weight loss when used in conjunction with Patricia Clarke contouring gel.

Says Carli Argirova, general manager of Lilian Terry International: “We are often asked why it is three separate oils and not just one. The reasoning behind the three-step programme is that each of these massage oil complexes has its own unique combination of homeopathic remedies and essential oils, providing different treatment characteristics. For an example –for your body to be able to detoxify and remove toxins effectively, your circulation and lymphatic drainage needs to be in good working order. Cellu One may assist in balancing hormones – and some hormones, such as Estrogen, not only have an effect on both the circulatory and lymphatic systems, but could also increase the build-up and storage of fat.

“Cellu Two could improve circulation and drainage, while Cellu Three may accelerate the elimination of toxins, improve digestion, accelerate metabolism and improve muscle tone. This

means that these three oils work in perfect synergy by first providing the proper foundation and framework to build on to address both the causes and their subsequent effects.”

Saloncare

The Saloncare Body Firming Gel electrotherapy / galvanic series (250ml ) is an effective cellulite reduction treatment to be used with electrotherapy machines in salon, or as maintenance in home care regimes.

It contains a blended cellulite reduction essential oil mix that rapidly absorbs, stimulates circulation and moves fatty deposits. For enhanced contouring benefits in salon, apply SalonCare’s Line Corrective Serum.

RégimA

Regular application of the RégimA Target Cellulite Silhouette Contouring Complex stimulates expression of the adiponectin gene, bringing up those all-important levels and burning those dreaded fat cells.

Star ingredients include InterPenetrating Biopolymer (Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract) for visible lifting, firming and elastisising. Bitter Orange Extract (Citrus Aurantium Amara Extract) has lipolytic (breaking down of fat) properties as well as a decongesting effect. It activates microcirculation via vasodilating, leading to progressive elimination of venous stasis and draining oedema. Tissues are decongested and the appearance of spongy cellulite is clearly improved.

Sacred Lotus (Nelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract) is an aquatic plant rich in flavonols, which offers a triple action anti-cellulite approach. It targets cellulite and drainage, activates lipolysis and the elimination of lipids and limits adipose tissue (fat tissue) inflammation by stimulating the expression of adiponectin.

Environ

Spalicious

From Spalicious, the Cellulite Fix Kit was an intensive research and development project with a view to finding a long-term management system for cellulite.

The Spalicious team emphasises that it is important to understand that cellulite is a skin disorder, not a fat disorder. “So what we will correct is the skin problem of dimpled skin that looks like an orange peel. This is not a weight loss or centimetre loss programme. It works in three steps that must be used in the correct order and at the correct time in order for it to be effective.”

The award-winning Environ Body EssentiA® Contouring Cream enhances the results of the client’s homecare routine with the brand’s Professional Focus On Body Profile Treatment. Developed by Dr Des Fernandes, this pioneering and intensive 30-minute body treatment safely stimulates the skin, delivering up to 100 times more of Environ’s powerhouse formulations. This approach is scientifically shown to deliver optimised results, and can be recommended as a non-invasive option.

Three-dimensional contouring effects are built into the Body EssentiA® Contouring Cream, a revolutionary innovation to help visibly smooth, firm, tighten and reshape the appearance of skin. It targets areas such as the jawline, upper arms, abdomen, buttocks, thighs and knees. Environ recommends that the light-weight quick-absorbing Contouring Cream is gently massaged into the skin mornings and evenings followed by Environ’s Body EssentiA® Derma-Lac® Lotion and A, C and E Oil.

Shaping up

Just in time for summer, we look at body contouring devices used for skin tightening and toning, as well as the reduction of cellulite and stubborn fatty deposits

release of stubborn localised fat and on skin quality, the new Patent (roller and motorised flap combined with sequential suction) allows the technology to act directly on the adipocytes present in our hypodermis (slimming cells) and on the fibroblasts present in our dermis (rejuvenating cells). This 360° treatment puts an end to the dilemma: slimming or firming?

LPG® endermologie

In contrast to a lot of the techniques available on the market, LPG® endermologie offers a 100% natural alternative by stimulating dormant cellular activity within the skin to fight all unaesthetic manifestations (i.e. wrinkles, sagging skin, localised resistant fat, cellulite appearance, and more).

Acting simultaneously on the

With the new patented Alliance treatment head, endermologie® makes it possible to target and slim specific areas resistant to diet and exercise like our arms, back, stomach, waist, thighs, etc. while precisely adapting to the needs of each skin type. The treatment stimulates the skin and fatty tissue to soften them and make them less fibrous. Simultaneously, this stimulation helps to release fat and to activate blood and lymphatic circulation.

Furthermore, the mechanical action of the treatment head stimulates natural fat release and firms skin to give it back its tonicity. Thanks to the Alliance Skin Identity system, the LPG® Expert can adapt the stimulation to each skin’s identity: treatment intensity is optimised, in total respect of the skin.

Venus Legacy

Featuring trademark (MP)2 technology, a power-combo of RF and PEMF (Pulsed ElectroMagnectic Fields), Venus Legacy is the most advanced shaping tool available in the industry, according to Gary Price of Astra Health Systems.

Photo by Karolina Grabowska from Pexels

He continues: “The additional VaripulseTM vacuum applicator enables greater skin contact and deeper thermal penetration. Simultaneous skin tightening is important during contouring treatments. Cellulite thrives where collagen structures are weak. Any loss of mass further leads to skin laxity. Collagen denatures at a therapeutic temperature of between 39˚C and 41˚C, causing natural skin tightening as the body responds to the breakdown. Due to the multipolar design, thermal penetration moves from the upper skin layers to the adipose layers simultaneously, ensuring comprehensive bio-activity in the connective tissue, once 39˚C is reached.

“PEMF makes #venustreatments the best skin tightening treatment as it causes the release of FGF-2 (growth factors) by simulating the neuro-signal for growth-factor release, leading to the production of new fibroblast cells, which produces new and additional collagen and elastin, thus strengthening the overall skin matrix. It also causes the production of new blood vessels, leading to better circulation and greater nutrient flow to the treatment site, which provides a healthy, glowing skin appearance. PEMF sets this natural healing process in motion with immediate effect and continues to be active for 90 days after each treatment.”

Aiming for circumferential or cellulite reduction, the large Octipolar or VaripulseTM 4-D applicator reaches up to 4.5cm depth, by working in the therapeutic temperature range of between 42˚C and 45˚C. This temperature range is the optimal range to cause the breakdown of fat molecules inside fat cells. The core components, glycerols and fatty acids, are ejected from the cell and circulated through the lymph and blood to get used for energy or be expelled via the kidneys. If not enough energy is used, nor enough hydration taken to flush the system, these core elements will be reprocessed in the liver to form triglycerides that will go back into storage in fat cells.

50,000 hours of work without degradation. This claim is previously unheard of in light therapy. From a cost perspective, this drastically reduces or even dispells the traditional concern over shot counts and applicator replacement costs.

“ReBorn is indicated for patients in the overweight BMI range between 25.0 and 29.9. Obese patients should consult with a medical doctor for a controlled fat reduction plan. The ReBorn treatment protocol consists of two to three pain-free, 25-minute treatment sessions, spaced four to eight weeks apart.”

ReBorn

ReBorn is CE registered and indicated for fat reduction. This smart, safe, versatile and clinicianfriendly system leverages medical grade Power LED technology as opposed to traditional laser light. Through precision engineering and ingenuity, ReBorn’s patented light source and cooling system allow for safe treatment of all skin types in the Southern African demographic range.

Medical-grade Power LEDs offer better electrical-to-light efficiency and reach intensities hundreds of times greater than standard LEDs, generating infrared frequencies in the full watt range. Fat reduction requires the heating of a large treatment area over an established period of time, resulting in a continuous fat cell temperature of 42˚C to 47˚ C. The 940nm infrared light is absorbed efficiently in the fat cells and poorly in melanin and the epidermis, leaving the skin intact while breaking down fat cells.

Says Rowan Price: “ReBorn’s proprietary Power LED design has a semi-wide (80˚) optical angle and uses multiple light sources, in fact, a 9 x 7 matrix to be exact. By distributing energy far more homogenously, greater clinical efficacy and consistency is achieved over the entire treatment area.

“Patented Power LEDs used in ReBorn are far safer and more reliable than laser, providing over

Accent Prime™

From Alma Lasers, Accent Prime™ works on a mesh of collagen fibres, mobilising them into action so that skin regains its elasticity and form. It also has the ability to significantly reduce fat.

Accent Prime™ is a great solution for dealing with the fatty tissue and willowy skin on the inside of the thighs and the knees to get rid of cellulite. Combining ultrasound and radio wave technologies, it acts quickly and effectively even in these highly challenging areas, stimulating collagen fibers to achieve a slim

and lifted effect.

The device can improve the appearance of the much dreaded ‘flabby belly’. It can get rid of excess belly fat and produces firm, flexible skin. Accent Prime™ is also highly effective on the shoulders, arms and backs.

safety and effectiveness. Onda Plus eliminates adipose cells, stimulates metabolic processes, skin texture and collagen production, improving contours. This multiawarded aesthetic system was designed by DEKA, Italy.

Schwarzy – also designed by DEKA – acts on different body areas, in particular on glutes, abdomen, flanks, legs and arms. In a few sessions, it increases muscle tone and mass, improves the postural aspect and reduces fat. Muscle strengthening is progressive, and it occurs with zero effort thanks to neuromuscular stimulation, which is triggered by Top Flat Magnetic Stimulation technology (TOP FMS). This elicits intense contractions that would otherwise be unachievable. Schwarzy interacts with muscle tissue, inducing intense contractions.

DEKA is distributed in Southern Africa by the Hitech Group.

in just one treatment, with two handles treating two areas at the same time as the system comes with two applicators. The treatment temperature for the Cooltech is -8 degrees Celsius.

In terms of treatment protocol, 1-4 areas are treated per year, and the number of treatments per area ranges between 1 and 3 sessions. Each session is approximately 60 minutes, with intervals between sessions on the same treated area recommended at every 6-8 weeks.

The consumable cost with this system is gel pads, as these aid in acting as a protective membrane for the skin.

Onda Plus combined with Schwarzy

The combined use of two noninvasive shaping technologies, ONDA Plus and Schwarzy, provides numerous advantages to both physicians and patients.

ONDA Plus acts on cellulite, fat and laxity. Coolwaves™ technology generates special selective bounded microwaves, which are emitted in a controlled fashion through 3 hand pieces. Energy is focused only where it is needed (i.e subcutaneous adipose tissue), preserving the adjacent tissue. ONDA Plus is the first and only body remodelling system that employs Coolwaves® technology.

The device acts on the entire body and treatments are comfortable. Its Integrated Cooling System preserves the skin for assured

Cooltech

The Cooltech Fat Feeze System, distributed by Radiant Healthcare, is a non-invasive device for full body contouring. This includes arms, legs, stomach, love handles, chin and knees.

CE medically approved, Cooltech can remove up to 20% fat

Cryotec

The team at Cryotec point out that reducing fat is not the same as losing weight, it’s both about what happens to fat cells and the number of fat cells in our bodies that typically becomes a fixed number in the teenage years.

“When we diet and, as a result, achieve weight loss, the fat cells have become smaller but the number of fat cells remains the same. But when we gain weight, the fat cells grow in size only,” they say.

The Cryotec Fat Freeze uses cryolipolysis (fat freezing) technology to reduce the number of fat cells in treated areas by approximately 20 - 25%. After the procedure these fat cells are then naturally processed and eliminated by the body.

Targeting fat pockets

Karen Ellithorne takes an indepth look at lipolysis, otherwise known as fat dissolving injections

ou have frequented the gym, spun, rebounded, intermittently fasted and possibly even run a marathon. The scale says you are your ideal weight and yet you still cannot stride down the beach in your bikini without being self-conscious about those stubborn pockets of fat perfectly poised beneath your size 10 buttocks.

Thankfully, technology has evolved and through the combination of lipolytic injections and aesthetic medicine technology, treatment of these problematic areas does not have to be quite as drastic as it was in the past.

Results can be achieved using a variety of modern technologies namely, laser, radiofrequency and fat freezing. Lipolysis is used to target specific stubborn areas of the body that contain resistant, stubborn fat.

Lypolysis, in the form of the injectable variety, or using lipolytic technology, is not indicated for obese patients due to the fact that these treatments are considered more of a sculpting, shaping treatment.

In this article, we will be specifically looking at lipolysis through the technique of using injectables, which is a mesotherapy type solution that is injected into unwanted fatty areas.

It is important to note that this is a doctor only procedure and should not be administered under any circumstances by an aesthetician or beauty therapist.

General indications

Lipolysis is a non-surgical method used to reduce diet resistant adipose tissue deposits in an otherwise slim body. As previously mentioned, it is not indicated for patients carrying large amounts of weight. In this instance it is

This is a DOCTOR ONLY PROCEDURE and should NOT BE ADMINISTERED under any circumstances BY AN AESTHETICIAN OR BEAUTY therapist.

Photo by Huha Inc on Unsplashs

recommended that these patients first undergo a weight loss programme before lipolysis injections can be indicated. Fat lipolysis is also not a substitute for exercising and is not suggested as an alternative for liposuction.

The areas that can be successfully treated on the body are resistant fat on the abdomen, inner thighs, love handles, bra bulges, upper arms, knees and ankles, as well as cellulite bulges.

The face can also be treated with lipolysis injections and is usually used for double chins, flabby cheeks and for general facial sculpturing.

A topical anaesthetic cream (numbing cream) is applied for 20-30 minutes prior to the procedure. There is a certain degree of discomfort experienced by patients during the injections, which varies individually from minimal to severe.

The number of treatments depends on the amount of resistant fat that one wants to dissolve. On average, 2 to 3 treatments are needed. They can be repeated every 3-4 weeks. Results are not the same in each patient and vary per individual. Slow and gradual improvement can be seen after 3 weeks, the maximum results are seen after 8 weeks.

Possible risks and side-effects include but are not limited to: bruising, bleeding, swelling, discomfort, pain, burning sensations, skin discoloration, blisters, ulceration, lumpiness, hardness of the treated area, nodule formation at the injection sites as well as infection, allergic reactions, dizziness and nausea. Most of these side-effects are temporary and dissipate.

Lypolytic solutions

Kybella is a well-known solution that is a trademarked medicine containing deoxycholic acid. An additional lipolytic product found in the industry is called Lipodissolve, which consists of a compound of phosphatdylcholine and deoxcholic acid. As Liposdissolve is a compounded medication, it can be manufactured by a compounding pharmacy.

The components of these lipolytic solutions are natural, consisting of deoxcholic acid, which is a bile acid naturally found in our body that breaks down and absorbs fats.

Phosphatidylcholine is a phospholipid that’s contained in eggs, sunflower and other foods. This component serves as a source of choline in the body that is useful for reducing superficial fat deposits.

Another popular lipolytic injectable found in the market is called Ceccarelli solution. Formulated by an Italian, Professor Maurizio Ceccarelli, it contains vitamin C and a minute amount of iron. The vitamin C (ascorbic acid) in higher doses works as a pro-oxidant and, when mixed with iron and injected into the fat tissue, it initiates the Fenton reaction leading to generation of hydroxyl type radicals. These radicals trigger the natural death of fat cells by a physiological process called apoptosis.

Treatment protocol

The solution is injected into localised fat pockets (fat tissue under the skin) in a grid-like pattern. On the body, 1 ml per site (1 cm2) is injected, while on the face, 0.5 ml per site. An area of two hands is the largest area which can be treated in one session with maximum of 200 ml solution injected (200 injections).

Post procedure

It is recommended that the patient stays well hydrated post the injections. Also really important is that they continue to maintain a healthy body weight, as any new weight gain will result in the regrowth of fat cells.

Any treatment modality on its own can make a considerable difference to a patient’s life, but combining treatments can enhance treatments even further.

Resistant fat and cellulite have different forms and grades and success requires a combination of treatments that include reduction of fat cells, shrinking and tightening of existing collagen and further collagen stimulation in order to achieve a 360-degrees improvement in body. Therefore, combining lipolytic injections with other additional in-clinic procedures like cryolipolysis, laser lipolysis, ultrasound, cavitation, radiofrequency and medical weight loss programmes can dramatically improve the overall results and turn a patient’s life and self-confidence around forever.

A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa.

Email karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

ANY TREATMENT modality on its own can MAKE A CONSIDERABLE DIFFERENCE to a patient’s life, but COMBINING TREATMENTS can ENHANCE TREATMENTS even further.

Photo by Polina Tankilevitch from Pexels

CONSULTATIVE

BARBERING is strongly

ENCOURAGED, where BARBERS WILL SIT with a NEW CUSTOMER FOR 10 MINUTES prior to working on their hair.

How Medellin is breaking the barber shop mould

About to launch his 12th store, Medellin The Barber Cartel founder, Marlon Naidoo, speaks to Joanna Sterkowicz about his journey thus far and plans for the future

hen Marlon Naidoo decided to leave the corporate world and venture into the men’s grooming market back in 2018, he set out to disrupt the norm associated with barbering. This was not only from a perspective of creating a unique design concept and service offering, but also centred on a specific culture for both staff and clients.

Walk into any branch of Medellin The Barber Cartel and you will immediately be struck by the distinctly themed design and branding. And yes, that is the face of notorious Colombian drug lord, Pablo Escobar, plastered on the wall.

It was the TV drama series, ‘Narcos’, about Escobar, whose compound was in the town of Medellin, that inspired Naidoo’s concept. And while the décor and design of the Medellin stores reflects the ‘Narcos’ setting, albeit in a fun way, Naidoo is at pains to point out that his aim was never to glorify Escobar or the drug trade, but

rather to turn the stereotype around the word ‘cartel’ on its head.

“All that cartel actually means is a group of people with a common school of thought moving in one direction,” he continues. “Another stereotype I wanted to overturn is that Medellin only caters for ethnic hair. The fact is that we provide services for all types of hair and our clients are drawn from all ages and races. We have even included a ‘Junior Cartel’ offering on our menu and there are even female clients who come in for undercuts or blade work.”

Franchise expansion

While the Medellin franchise is looking forward to its newest branch opening at the end of October in Centurion, at the Irene Link Shopping Centre, the original store, in Pineslopes, Johannesburg, remains fully owned by Naidoo and is his flagship salon, which he describes as ‘his baby’.

He continues: “Centurion will be our 12th store and comes straight after launching in Claremont, our first foray into the Cape market. I must say it’s been a daunting process as Cape Town is unchartered territory for us. The male grooming market here doesn’t have that ‘butchfinesse’ approach to grooming that we have in Johannesburg, where males are more ‘woke’ and self-aware, and I believe that is our unique selling point. Medellin puts the masculinity back into grooming. To me, it’s as if society as a whole has evolved into a culture of personal upkeep and how you present yourself in terms of grooming is locked into self-esteem.”

Another 29 franchises are in the pipeline, with more stores in Cape Town and plans to infiltrate the Durban market. There are numerous branches in the Johannesburg area already, as in Parkhurst, Dainfern, The Glen, Kyalami, Honeydew, Morningside, Bedfordview and Stoneridge.

Medellin stores range in size from 50 square metres to 150 square metres. The franchise offering is modular, with some

Marlon Naidoo

franchisees just opting for barber services, while others add a manicure/ pedicure station, or an IV bar, or a tattoo bar.

“Because of our modular approach, we can create a bespoke offering, tailoring it to the market segment. For instance, our Claremont branch has a coffee nook outside, as that is very much part of the Cape Town lifestyle,” notes Naidoo.

Culture

He emphasises that the Medellin culture is not just about barbering and grooming, it is also about how men behave and about societal respect, as in don’t abuse women and don’t be narcissistic.

“So we promote the culture of ‘The Medellin Man’, not only for our staff but for our clients as well. Our stores are the gateway to Version 1.2 of every gentleman who comes into our salons. It’s all so much bigger than just a haircut. We encourage responsible drinking and behaviour and are committed to help end gender-based violence,” he comments.

The right staff

When he entered the hair sector, Naidoo found it an incredibly diluted training environment. “Some ethnic barbers think they only need to know how to use scissors, while others only know how to cut with clippers. My barbers need to have both skills. Our training is universal and we do skill transfers. The Medellin operations managers go from store to store to do skills audits.

“From a barbering perspective, there is no central place to learn barbering, as in a hands-on school of barbering. To try and address that, two months ago I started the Medellin Training Academy.”

Naidoo’s barbers are encouraged to wear different cuts and styles on their own hair so that they become a live catalogue for customers. Consultative barbering is strongly encouraged, where barbers will sit with a customer for 10 minutes prior to working on their hair.

“We build relationships with clients as they have a canvas in terms of their hair,” notes Naidoo. “The conversation between customers and barbers is comfortable and they even talk about things like nose hair. We address the issue of hair loss with clients, but approach the topic in a sensitive way and we might even refer the customer to a dermatologist. Our barbers are able to identify conditions like psoriasis on the scalp, or acne, and we refer them to Skin Renewal Clinic.”

He is adamant that Medellin staff needs to be authentic and have a strong desire to work for the franchise. Staff turnover is very low, at 6%.

Among Medellin customers are celebrities, sports stars and DJs, but they all pay for their services as there are no free endorsements.

Hairdressers vs barbers

Naidoo maintains that there is a big divide between barbers and hairdressers, in that the latter feel superior.

“I want to overturn that perception as there is no logical or practical reason that barbers should feel inferior as good barbering requires lots of skill. My aim is to redefine the barber segment in the industry.”

To this end, Naidoo introduced the Medellin Master Fade Competition, where 20 barbers compete annually for the grand prize of an immediate job within the franchise.

Marlon Naidoo poses for a ‘cartel mugshot’

The Dainfern branch

Coffee that burns fat Motherkind Slimming Coffee contains green tea extract and garcinia cambogia, which makes it the ideal morning beverage for coffee lovers who want to manage their weight sustainably. This special, instant fat burning coffee is an antioxidant that will help your body slim down and improve your energy.

In the market

round-up of new products and treatments

Gentle tints

RefectoCil Sensitive Series is a 100% plantbased range of eyelash and eyebrow tints formulated specifically for those with sensitive skin.

are also great for those with sparse or patchy brows, as the tint dyes the skin and creates a fuller looking brow result.

Black, Sensitive Dark Brown and Sensitive

Brown.

Glow away From Beauté Pacifique, Stay Tanned SelfTanning Lotion is the perfect dermatological alternative to sun exposure. It offers immediate peptide-rich moisturisation, stimulates DNA repair and includes an anti-inflammatory action, all with a naturally beautiful golden tan the healthy way in just 2 hours.

Lovely lips

High Shine glosses from Belleshhh Cosmetics are the ultimate combo of non-sticky and nourishment. This creamy formula is filled with hydrating vitamin E to soften the lips while giving a smooth and, more importantly, non-sticky finish. The vitamin E also acts as antioxidant to soothe chapped or cracked lips. These glosses are available in 8 shades.

he problem with living in ‘The Deep South’, as it were, is that we are always a season behind the acknowledged headquarters of fashion, i.e. the Northern Hemisphere. At no time is this more marked than during the seasonal runway shows in fashion hotspots like New York, London, Paris and Milan. Luckily, our sister publication, Professional Beauty UK, keeps a sharp eye on these and has shared an article about the nail trends that were discernible at the recent Autumn/Winter 22 catwalk season.

Keeping staff motivated is an on-going issue, especially at times when you, as the salon owner, are yourself feeling fatigued and not particularly stimulated. As an article in this issue points out, it’s important to have a positive attitude because this is bound to rub off onto staff. Also suggested is trying to ascertain what drives the people around you and what is important to them. Basically, people always want to be made to feel important and that what they are doing is valued and appreciated.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

What’s INSIDE

Photo by Kate Gundareva from Pexels

Subtly-hued nails ruled the Emmys red carpet

If anyone was hoping for bizarre and outlandish nail art on the red carpet at the recent Emmy Awards held in Hollywood, they would have been disappointed.

The majority of stars opted for subtle nails, with many wearing nude, sheer and pearly shades. However, that doesn’t mean that there weren’t beautiful nails aplenty on show. Actress Kerry Washington, for instance, wore very pretty, translucent nails with a delicate white floral design on some fingers. It was a bridal-like look created by nail artist Kim Truong to match her white asymmetrical gown.

Sydney Sweeney of ‘Euphoria’ fame had a quietly dazzling silver ombre manicure on her long almond shaped nails. Stylist Zola Ganzorigt, who was responsible for the design, also created a pretty and subtle look for Christina Ricci, in the ‘glazed donut’ look that previously went viral when worn by model Hailey Bieber.

Emmy winner Zendaya’s short, plain and pale pink nails in no way detracted from her spectacular black ball gown. E! red carpet host, Laverne Cox, had white talons courtesy of Eri Ishizu.

Squid Game’ star HoYeon Jung opted for nude coloured, squoval, not-too-long nails created by Yoku Sakakura, a nail artist from Tokyo.

Comic actress and Emmy winner, Jennifer Coolidge, had her long, oval nails in a creamy pearl shade. Nails were by Emi Kudu, who actually created a set of custom press on nails for the star.

Also rocking a sheer style on her nails was Reese Witherspoon – a look created by Thuy Nguyen to go with her super-sparkly metallic dress.

There were the odd bursts of bright and brilliant colour on the red carpet, most notably on singer/ actress Selena Gomez, who sported a humongous emerald and diamond ring on her index finger, which celebrity ‘MAN’-icurist, Tom Bachik, matched with a beautiful, glistening green hue on her short nails.

Always one for the claws, rapper Lizzo made a statement with super-long, post-box red stiletto nails, designed by Eri Ishizu. Said nails contrasted vividly with a hot pink, strapless gown so vast that it literally took over the red carpet.

Thuy Nguyen created lime green French tips for Mindy Kaling, to match her vibrant, beaded dress.

‘Pam & Tommy’ star, Lilly James, had plain brown nails that toned in with her copper-coloured long locks.

Kerry Washington (Instagram @kerrywashington)

Jennifer Coolidge (Instagram @nailsbyemikudo)

Christina Ricci (Instagram @nailsbyzola)

Sydney Sweeney (Instagram @nailsbyzola)

Lizzo (Instagram@erierinailz)

Selena Gomez (Instagram @tombachik)

Mindy Kaling (Instagram @nailsbyzola)

Our experts answer questions around all aspects of the industry

How do I motivate my staff?

otivating anyone let alone your staff can be quite a challenging task, however it’s better to motivate people through positivity rather than demotivating them through constant negativity. The way you and your managers conduct themselves can have a very big influence and impact on your staff’s performance and retention levels. It’s all about attitude and leading by example; if you have a positive attitude, it’s bound to rub off on your staff, which in turn will create a positive environment.

You will always get the odd person though who is not easily motivated and sees everything as a stumbling block. If that’s the case and they are not performing and contributing towards the success of your business, then they don’t belong there.

Find out exactly what drives and motivates the people around you – are they motivated more by money than the opportunity to learn, or vice versa?

While money is always a big motivating factor, people are even more motivated by incentives, education and by receiving recognition and acknowledgements. People always want to be made to feel important and that what they are doing is valued and appreciated.

The best managers are usually those who communicate well and in a positive manner,

who are hands on, who get involved and who involve their staff not only in the day-to-day treatments being offered, but also within other areas of the business. Offering information and guiding staff on all areas of the salon, including operations, stock control, retailing, and techniques which they may not be performing, helps them to gain a better insight of how the business is run. Allow them to make suggestions and even give them some responsibilities. They will automatically feel more enthusiastic and appreciated.

Continually challenge your staff to go above and beyond by setting long and short-term goals for them and yourself. Where possible, assist them in achieving these goals and allow staff to share their goals and assist one another. Teamwork creates a bond among staff and induces a happy environment. Most importantly, acknowledge and reward your staff when they do achieve and make them feel proud. Follow through and don’t make promises you can’t keep or they will not trust you. Staff who are treated with respect and feel appreciated will become exceptionally loyal.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for over 30 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.

Photo by Andrea Piacquadio from Pexels

Hottest from overseas Nail Art Trends

As South Africa is a season behind the Northern Hemisphere, it’s always useful to keep up with the styles of nail art trending in that region

ollie Hancock from Professional Beauty UK writes: The Autumn/Winter 2022 season will feature a fun and fresh twist on the classic French tip. Furthermore, clients will play with textures as matte nails are predicted to return.

Not surprisingly, as the days get colder and nights get shorter in Europe and the UK, the fun and bright summertime designs be phased out in favour of autumnal styles and darker shades.

“We’re expecting colour trends to move towards burnt orange, sage, soft reds, greys, burgundy, warm browns and mustard yellow,” shares Mirela Bosnjak, nail technician for Rawr Beauty.

In terms of shapes, Bosnjak anticipates that clients will opt for almond, which she says is ‘an inclusive, elegant nail shape for all’.

Texture is set to big this season, with clients opting for velvet effects and matte finishes as an alternative to nail art, even mixing textures within their mani for interesting 3D nail art effects and a mismatched look.

Coloured French tips Instagram @nailsbybrookekimberley

For a modern twist on the French mani, Georgie Smedley Group educator Amy Martin loves how the classic bright white tip of a French manicure can easily be swapped out for another, more autumnal colour.

“Going into AW22 we can expect to see some beautiful, rich deep tones in ranges of reds and browns,” she says.

Photo by Becca Correia from Pexels

Clean-girl nails

Instagram @__nailsbynic__

A look that Juanita Hubert-Miller, founder of nail salon group Townhouse, is seeing grow is the ‘clean-girl mani’, as clients choose a less-is-more approach and go for what she describes as ‘a super pared-back look that focuses on really beautifully manicured hands with a natural, healthy-looking nail achieved by a topcoat alone or a delicate natural shade’.

In a complete contrast to the popularity of retro nail art, clients are also opting to keep it simple for AW22. Louella Belle brand ambassador Tabby Casto says, “There is a return to very clean, simple manicured nails as well. Pale nudes are perfect for clients wanting to keep nails short and sweet.”

Matte finish Instagram @jenphillipsnailartist

For clients wanting to subtly switch up their manicure for autumn/winter, a matte nail is low-key way to add some texture. “Whether a full nail effect or a contrasting matte tip, the cool, frosted finish is this season’s must-try,” says Sophie Rogers, founder of Emery Nails. A matte finish is a great way to play with colours as well, as adding a matte topcoat to a gloss polish can change the appearance of the colour.

Try playing with textures to make your nail art pop. For example, having a matte base and then using a gloss finish on top of nail art features can give a 3D effect.

Fresh foils

Instagram: @mytownhouseuk

Amp up a basic mani with the addition of reflective foils – think gold leaf accents, tiny copper hearts and silver stars.

“Foils are also always a hit for autumn: gold, silver, rose gold!” shares Bosnjak. “They introduce a subtle look with a touch of class.”

1960a nostalgia nails

Instagram @__nailsbynic__

Retro-inspired nail art has always been popular, particularly designs that emulate the 1960s. “Rather than 1960s black-and-white mod, think groovy vibes. Shapes and designs will take inspiration from past record covers, fashion posters and art,” says Casto.

For a more autumnal finish, use neutral shades and deep oranges and reds for a subtler look.

Pattern clash

Instagram @madelineelizabethx

Accent nails are a fun way to show off your clients’ personalities through mixing multiple nail art styles on two or three accent nails, or having one nail stand out from the rest.

Casto says that this season we can expect a new take on the trend, with some serious pattern clash. “Some clients are truly shifting away from just a couple of accent nails and enjoying the thrill of having multiple designs in one manicure,” she adds.

*The above article was written by Lollie Hancock and published in the August 2022 issue of Professional Beauty UK.

We’re expecting COLOUR TRENDS to MOVE TOWARDS BURNT ORANGE, sage, soft reds, greys, burgundy, warm browns AND MUSTARD YELLOW.

SOME CLIENTS are truly SHIFTING AWAY from just a couple of ACCENT NAILS and enjoying the thrill of HAVING MULTIPLE DESIGNS in one MANICURE.

Step 1

Apply a base layer, suited to the nail plate analysis. Cure. Apply two layers of white gel and cure each layer. For this design, I used EVO Whitney.

Step 4

Use a nail art bush to pull the dots toward the centre, creating a flower petal design. Cure once the flower is created.

Just in time for summer, this pretty and delicate floral design was created by Bianca Van Der Linde

Flower art

Step 2

Apply small specs of a silver / gold foil flake to the nail. Flatten the foil specs onto the sticky cured residue of the colour gel. Seal with a strengthening layer. Cure and wipe. I used BIOGEL Soft Gel.

Step 5

Finish the flower by adding a small spec of the foil flake to the centre of the flower design. Then create the leaf pattern design using a colour gel / high pigmented gel and a fine liner nail art detailing brush. Cure. I used Bio Sculpture’s HP Gel and a Fine Art Brush.

Step 3

Using a selected colour gel and a Dotting Tool, apply five dots, close to each other, in a circular pattern. Do not cure.

Step 6

Apply a layer of gloss gel to seal the nail art. Cure and cleanse.

Bianca Van Der Linde is an award-winning nail technician working at Plush Nails & Beauty Salon based in Roodepoort, specialising in Bio Sculpture. Van Der Linde has eight years of experience in the nails and beauty industry.

Finishing touch

The gel manicure, where a gel-based polish is applied to the client’s nails and cured by a UV or LED light, has proved to be an incredibly popular treatment at salons

Bio Sculpture EVO

From South African brand Bio Sculpture, EVO is a revolutionary, easy to apply, professional LED gel polish in a bottle system.

EVO offers the option of three pure gel bases: Oxygenating Base & Build; FLEX Base; and Contour Base & Build, each with a unique texture and purpose to suit every nail type. The bases have excellent selflevelling properties for overlays, adding strength to the natural nail and to create effortlessly beautiful form sculptures.

While being a complete system on its own, EVO is also compatible with BIOGEL. Its bottle and brush system allows for fast application and quick removal within 10 to 15 minutes.

EVO has a wide selection of highly pigmented colour gels with excellent consistency and intense nail coverage that are all named after special ladies. Colour palettes are compiled together by leading fashion experts, adding new, seasonal and trendy colours, as well as everyday wear shades to the EVO family.

hile gel polish can be a standalone treatment applied on the client’s natural nails, it can also be used over acrylic enhancements. More and more men of late have been seen sporting gel polish manicures. The popularity of gel polish is due to the sleek finish it gives to the nails plus, very importantly, its durability and longevity, lasting so much longer than nail lacquer. By using only reputable professional brands and the correct application techniques, there should be no damage to the client’s natural nails. Here we look at just some of the leading gel polish systems available.

Photo by Isabella Mendes from Pexels

CND Shellac

The CND Shellac 14+ Day Colour System was voted the Number 1 Salon Gel Polish in America by Kline’s Professional Nail Care.

Launched in 2010 to upgrade manicure, pedicure and enhancement services, CND Shellac was created with what both the nail professional and client wanted at top of mind. This resulted in a product which was easy to apply and that delivered flawless, long-lasting colour with no chipping or problems and, most importantly, no damage to the natural nail.

With more than 5 years of research, the CND Shellac Brand formula was developed using unique scientific innovation, featuring patented, UV3 technology, making it user and wearer friendly. UV3 technology merges the best of enhancement discoveries with the ease of the latest formulations in polish, allowing it to apply like polish, wear like gel, and remove in minutes. The monomers and oligomers in the formula contribute to the toughness, protection, and its complete cure, delivering two plus weeks of chip resistant, durable, high shine wear.

The system is a professional use only, salon service consisting of four essentials, which must be used as a complete system for optimum performance. Steps are: Shellac Base Coat; Shellac Colour Coat; Shellac Top Coat; and the CND LED Lamp.

Following each step according to proper protocols is vitally important and contributes to the system’s cumulative success and a superior service with no natural nail damage. Along with these essentials, proper preparation of the nail plate is of course always important and the foundation of a successful application.

CND offers more than 150+ shades and a variety of Top & Base Coats, which offer unique benefits for customised results according to each client’s individual needs.

In terms of removal, CND Offly Fast is a professional moisturisng remover formulated with quick-release polymers that ensure the coating comes off easily from the nail, without any filing of the natural nail necessary. There is no dehydration of the natural nails and surrounding skin. Offly Fast is used with CND foil Remover Wraps.

Cuccio Veneer

An international brand that is found in over 135 countries worldwide, Cuccio’s gel polish system, Veneer, is 100% polish free. There is no evaporation and therefore no fumes or odour for the nail tech or clients to inhale.

Furthermore, with its triple pigmentation technology, only a maximum of two coats of colour are required. Cuccio Veneer has amazing durability and leaves nails with a high gloss shine.

It’s important to note that Cuccio is a Cruelty Free Brand with no testing on animals.

Formulas are 12 free, including gluten-free and animal-free. The complete list of 12 Free includes the following ingredients not present in Veneer: formaldehyde resin; formaldehyde; toluene; dbp; camphor; xylene; ethyl tosylamide; paraben; fragrance; triphenyl phosphate; animal derived ingredients; and wheat derived ingredients.

Furthermore, Cuccio Veneer features a matching Colour Lacquer for every single shade in the range – these are called Matchmakers. Salons can therefore purchase a matching lacquer in the same shade of gel polish to either sell to clients (and increase sales), or to use on those clients who prefer colour on their toes instead of gel polish in the same shade.

LCN Recolution

An advanced soak off colour polish, LCN Recolution is described as a soft gel/ nail polish gel.

It is animal friendly and features easy application with an ergonomically shaped profi-precision brush.

Recolution is scratch resistant and formulated with to have an ultra-high colour consistency. It is safe and bio-compatible.

There is no wastage with this system, which is solvent free. The gel does not thicken and it is acid free.

Over 150 colour options are available, with 39% more product per bottle.

Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

Silver protection

From LCN, the Special Care MicroSilver BG Protecting Cream prevents excessive germ growth on the skin and holds inflammations at bay. Polyphenols derived from magnolias help support an antibacterial effect. The cream contains moisturising hyaluronic acid and valuable oils from olives and kukuinuts to nourish and protect.

Colourful awakening

CND’s new Rise & Shine collection is all about colour after a chilly, dim winter. Shades are: Poppy Fields (red with yellow undertones); Oceanside (vibrant turquoise); Violet Rays (purple with hints of red); Among the Marigolds (yellow-orange); and Mind Over Matcha (light green). Available in CND Shellac Gel Polish and CND Vinylux Long Wear Polish.

Product

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails

Jewels & gels

The new Mode Quartz collection from Calgel Plus consists of 4 jewel-like sheer gel colours. These soft gels are available in 2.5g. True to their name, each colour resembles stones like Amethyst, Aventurine, Amber and Agate. These sheer shades are great to use with glitter, foils, marble nail art designs, pearl shine gel, or for an easy ombre.

Milky treat

Cuccio’s Milk Bath takes a mani/ pedi to the next level and is recommended as an add-on service. It is also suitable for relieving sore, aching muscles after an exercise work out or after a long, hard day on your feet. Perfect for very dry skin, the product contains Epsom salts which are naturally detoxifying. Buttermilk and honey lock in moisture to leave skin feeling truly moisturised.

Photo by Malvestida on Unsplash

Top Tech Talk

NailFile talks to Cape Town salon owner, Carrie-Anne van Rensburg of Candy Coated by Carrie, about current market conditions and the importance of customer service

Have you found that business picked oncegovernment told us to remove our Covid masks earlierthis year?

We have been very fortunate to maintain a consistent client base in the salon since our industry was allowed to operate again. With more Covid restrictions being lifted this year, it has encouraged more events and special occasions to take place. This has definitely had a positive impact on our business. It has also been great to connect with our clients again by being able to see each other smile.

Are you expecting business to increase over thesummer and festive months? If so, do you think it willmatch pre-Covid figures for this time of year?

Festive season is filled with lots of excitement, parties and glitter. So I am positive that our industry will return to what it once was pre-Covid, with us as salons having to adapt accordingly. Salon visits are like therapy for our clients. Welcoming them into our happy space during the summer months is the best time of year for us.

What do you think are the biggestchallenges facing the nail industry at themoment?

The past few years and its challenges have brought change to the way techs purchase product and pursue their education. It is important that techs choose a brand they can trust and educate themselves on the ingredients of their products in order to prevent nail disorders and allergies to products.

You have a 5-star rating on yourFacebook page, which is quite anachievement. What is your customerservice policy?

Service with a smile. Our clients are the heart of our business. It is my goal to ensure I treat each client with gratitude and respect. I try to ensure that I pour my heart into each treatment so that the client leaves the salon feeling like they matter, because they do.

What is the most popular serviceat your salon?

In my observation, rubber-base has taken our industry by storm. This, along with heam-free hard gel, has become the treatment our clients request most in salon. With summer on the way, pedis are also a treatment of choice.

You offer both acrylic and gelenhancements – do you maybeprefer one medium to the other?

Each system has a purpose and one is not superior to the other. Our choice of system would be dependent on client and area. The goal is to maintain the health and integrity of the natural nail. We achieve this by identifying the client’s nail type and lifestyle and suggest a medium that would suit them. Personally, I enjoy working with both mediums. I have recently fallen in love with hema-free hard gel and this has become my go-to.

How big is nail art among yourclients?

It has been so wonderful to see the industry progress with different forms of nail art, which allows for lots of creative freedom. Clients are becoming more expressive and brave with their choices. This inspires us as technicians to keep improving and passionately create custom designs for our clients. Social media platforms often inspire our clients to choose their designs and we are spoilt for choice. Most of our clients in salon leave with some form of nail-art on their nails.

What would you say are the big nail arttrends at the moment?

Vertical optical illusion ombres, embellishing dusts and chromes, and abstract designs. Ombre never goes out of style.

During the festive season do you normallyfind that clients are wanting Christmas-themed nail art?

Most definitely. It wouldn’t be festive season without all the sparkle and fun. Clients leaving the salon covered in glitter from head to toe is the norm for us technicians over the holidays.

What style of nail art do you most enjoydoing?

I am a glitter girl at heart as I believe you can never have too much sparkle. But I also really enjoy trying my hand at geometric and abstract designs.

When did you open Candy Coated byCarrie?

I started out as a part-time technician operating from home in 2015 and then in 2018, I decided to pursue my business full-time.

What prompted you to start your ownbusiness?

Flexibility, independence and the desire to build my own dream.

FESTIVE SEASON is filled with LOTS OF EXCITEMENT, parties and GLITTER. So I am positive that our industry WILL RETURN to what it once was PRE-COVID, with us as salons having to ADAPT ACCORDINGLY.

Where is Candy Coated byCarrie situated?

I am very fortunate to now operate from a salon near the beach – a dream come true. There are other independent technicians who work with me at my salon. We share the space and individually grow our businesses together.

Do you take part in nailcompetitions at all?

I have previously taken part in a nail competition and found that although challenging, it pushes your skill level as a technician by fine-tuning the steps and details you take to produce a beautiful enhancement. Competition nails are marked on different ratios and criteria of the enhancements or nail art. I would definitely encourage technicians to take part in competitions, no matter your skill level. It is all about self-improvement.

Being able to MAKE MY CLIENTS SMILE and SEE THE EXCITEMENT on their faces is the reason I DO WHAT I DO. Each set GIVES ME that sense of ACHIEVEMENT. I couldn’t be more GRATEFUL To my WONDERFUL CLIENTS.

What do you regard as your greatestachievement in your career?

I feel it is so important to celebrate each milestone no matter how small it may seem, whether it be growing your client base, learning a new skill, buying a couple of new colours, or reaching a number of followers on your social media page. Forward is forward, no matter the speed. Being able to make my clients smile and see the excitement on their faces is the reason I do what I do. Each set gives me that sense of achievement. I couldn’t be more grateful to my wonderful clients. As far as memorable moments go, achieving my educator certificate from Katia Da Silva, a mentor who has inspired me so greatly, was a highlight of my career.

What would you still like to achieve?

I would like to attend the NSI Nail University in the USA, or in Johannesburg. It is a great opportunity for techs and educators to connect and level-up on the latest trends and techniques.

I believe you are part of the NSI WesternCape team?

Yes, that’s correct. I distribute product in the Table View area and surrounds. In fact, I was fortunate to commence my journey with NSI directly after training with them. I started in a sales/ admin capacity and that led to future opportunities of education and distribution. As a brand, we believe in building a community, one nail at a time. This is a vision I share personally and I am grateful to be a part of the NSI team, which has continued to uplift and encourage me on my journey.

We hope you enjoyed this edition of Professional Beauty