Professional Beauty SA Aug 2022 by Professional Beauty SA

AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS

Incorporating

NAIL FILE

In this issue... August 2022 | probeauty.co.za

INCREASING FOOTFALL INTO THE SALON ALL THINGS HAIR REMOVAL ACNE TREATMENTS

CONTENTS

IN THIS ISSUE Regulars 7

Industry news

Local and international news

Crowning glory Focus on hair

In the market

Latest product launches

Business 13

Ask the Experts

Discrimination in the workplace

How to neutralise cancellations

Features 22

It’s show time!

Professional Beauty Johannesburg preview

World Spa & Wellness Convention Conference programme

Interview

Conference programme

Talking to... Candice Thurston

Aesthetic Medicine Convention 28

Top tips for treating clients with acne What to focus on

Dealing with no-shows

Candi & Co founder & Sorbet Group marketing executive

Aesthetic Medicine

The future is here

How AI is used in the industry

Spot on – treating acne Products and treatments

Waxing lyrical

The 5 most common mistakes made by laser hair removal therapists Potential trouble areas

Smooth operator

Hair removal devices

Mistakes to avoid

5 tips to increase footfall in your salon Getting more feet through the door

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The hairless aesthetic

Waxing products

Nails 49

NailFile Issue 54

WELCOME NAIL FILE

This issue of the magazine includes a preview of our first Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo since 2019. What a glorious happening this is for the Professional Beauty team – we’re back, at last! For a company whose core business is centered on holding trade shows, not being able to present our flagship Johannesburg event for two years because of the Covid pandemic has been agonising. However, we greatly look forward to welcoming the industry at large to this year’s event, on 28 and 29 August at Gallagher Convention Centre. Last-minute cancellations and no-shows are a serious bugbear for any salon or spa, not to mention a loss of revenue and a waste of salon and therapist time. We include an article in this issue on how to deal with the problem and also how to handle late-comers. Hair removal services are a sure-fire revenue generator in any beauty business, so we have dedicated several pages in this issue to both product- and machine-based hair removal, and included some useful tips on how to perform each type of treatment. Women’s Day falls within August so it is only fitting that we are running an in-depth article with a trailblazer in the hair & beauty industry, namely Candice Thurston – founder of Candi & Co and marketing executive for the Sorbet Group. Thurston’s journey in the industry has been inspiring, to say the least.

Publisher Mark Moloney mark@probeauty.co.za Managing Director Yolanda Knott 011 781 5970 yolanda@probeauty.co.za Commercial Director Philip Woods 084 759 2024 phil@probeauty.co.za Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 083 411 8512 joanna@probeauty.co.za Marketing Executive Natasha Chisese natasha@professionalbeauty.org.za Sales Consultant Charlene Dickson 079 116 3262 charlene@professionalbeauty.org.za Operations Executive Obey Dube obey@probeauty.co.za Design Saveer Sugreem

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970

@probeautyexpo

@PROBEAUTYSA

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA

The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.shutterstock.com, www.pexels.com, www. pixabay.com and www.unsplash.com

INDUSTRY NEWS

Salon owners required to comply with COIDA The owners of salons and spas who are operating a business with one or more employees are required by law to register with the Compensation Commissioner and to provide all particulars in connection thereof. This is as per a notice issued by the Director General of Employment and Labour informing employers of COIDA (Compensation for Occupational Injuries and Diseases Act) compliance and intentions to conduct employer COIDA audits and employer site visits. The notice falls under the amendment to the terms of the COIDA Act and Regulations of 1993 (Act No 130 of 1993). Section 81 of the COIDA Act requires employers to keep records of earnings and particulars of employees, and to produce such upon request, while Section 82 requires all employers to furnish the Commissioner with an accurate Return of Earnings on an annual basis. Further, Section 83 indicates that the Director General shall assess an

All systems go for Professional Beauty Expo After a Covid pandemic-induced absence of two years, the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo returns to Gallagher Convention Centre on 28 and 29 August 2022. In addition to the exhibition, Professional Beauty Johannesburg will comprise of a number of exciting components, namely Business Seminars, the World Spa & Wellness Convention, the Aesthetic Medicine Convention, and Salon International. The latter includes a live hair stage, as well as a photographic hair competition. At the time of publication, a number of leading beauty, nails, hair and aesthetic brands had booked stands for the Expo. Among the exhibiting brands are: Esse, Beauté Pacifique, RégimA, Pevonia, Derca, Matis, Saloncare, Six,

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employer according to a tariff on the basis of a percentage of annual earnings. Failure to comply with the prescripts of the COID Act constitutes an offense in terms of this legislation. Says the EOHCB (Employers’ Organisation for Hairdressing Cosmetology Beauty): “The Compensation Fund will embark on employer engagements, site visits and audits in establishing effective registration and compliance to the COID Act. Employers, both registered and unregistered, including domestic employers, are hereby encouraged to ensure effective registration and compliance with the COIDA Act and should expect site visits and audits by Compensation Fund representatives.” Enquiries in this regard can be made through the CF Call Centre at 08600 105 350 / 0800 32 1322 or CFCallCentre@ labour.gov.za

DermaGuard, Lillian Terry, Bio Sculpture, NSI, Calgel, Nailz, Red Velvet, Patricia Clarke, RapidLash, Wrinkles Schminkles, Cirépil, Screaming Beauty, Anesi Blue, Alexandria, Collagen Lift, My Beauty Luv, Motherkind, Harvest Table, APS, Trendity, Electromedics and Arcana Cosmetics. Exhibiting aesthetics companies are Best Lasers, Hitech Lasers, Radian Healthcare, Cosmoprof and IVMT Aesthetics. Hair brands include Moroccanoil, Wahl, Sharplines, Olaplex and X-Sharp. Pre-registration for the expo will ensure free entry. Unregistered visitors arriving on the day will be charged an entrance fee of R300. For more info visit www.probeauty.co.za Speakers at the World Spa & Wellness Convention include Kent Richards, Tshegofatso Moseme, Lena Manamela, Andrew Barge, Tanya Lopes, Shelley Walters, Maria Viljoen, Tania Pheiffer, Charne le Roux, Verona Duwarkah, Ingrid Pollak, Aadil Dildar-Mia, Keshantha Naidoo, Alison Yammin, Kym Stafford, Terrence Jansen van Vuuren, and Marisa Dimitriadis. The Aesthetic Medicine Convention boasts speakers such as Dr Anjana Bhana, Dr Mark Opperman, Dr Bart Kurek, Dr Hema Singh, Dr Jacobus van Niekertk, Dr Judey Pretorius, Dr Johan Botha, Dr Biola, Lize van Zyle, Roxanne Byrne, Beverly Karam and Lourette Du Toit. Those wishing to attend the Business Seminars and the Conventions will need to purchase tickets for each event. Go to www.probeauty.co.za to book. See show preview on page 22 of this magazine.

INDUSTRY NEWS

Skin microbiome market set to soar

The Beauty Clinic East London turns 42 Opened by Gwen Pietersma in June 1980, The Beauty Clinic in East London recently celebrated its 42nd birthday. Originally situated in St Marks Road at Pietersma’s then home, the salon is now located on Tyrell Road in the suburb of Berea and includes The Hair Clinic and The Nail Clinic, as well as a gift store. After first opening the salon over four decades ago, Pietersma went on to launch the city’s first ever beauty school, which has produced many qualified therapists. In 2007 Pietersma married Pieter Olivier, who is directly involved in the running of the business. He is assisted by salon manager, Ilhaam Adams, and head therapist, Julie Blue, who has been with the salon for 23 years. Says Olivier: “Over the past 42 years we have given in excess of 15,000 gift vouchers to local charities, schools and sporting events as part of the company’s commitment and the growth of the local beauty industry. None of our gift vouchers ever expire, even ones that are older than 10 years after the purchase date. We also have an active Loyalty Programme that awards free facials and discounts on products.” The salon’s motto is – ‘We Give More Value’ – and in addition to traditional beauty salon treatments, it also offers peels, micro-needling, reflexology, dermabrasion and semi-permanent make up/ microblading. As part of its birthday celebrations, from Thursday, 21 July, the salon gave away 42 facials as part of a competition. And, for the two weeks following that date, every person who entered the premises received a free gift.

The global skin microbiome market will rocket to $1,950.38 million by 2029, up from $699.27 million in 2021, representing a CAGR of 13.68% during the forecast period. This is according to Data Bridge Market Research’s new report, ‘Global Skin Microbiome Market’, which mentions South African certified organic company, Esse Skincare, as one of the major players in the market. Other brands to feature on the list include Elizabeth Arden, L’Oréal; La RochePosay and AmorePacifc, among many others. The report points out that microbiome research on the skin aims to better understand the body’s largest organ by revealing how a host organism evolves in association with its diverse collection of fungi, bacteria, archaea, and viruses, characterising the immune system and diagnosing illnesses, and investigating disease etiologies. “The introduction of high-throughput sequencing has substantially increased our understanding of the skin microbiome and its health consequences. Humans, for example, are now known to be colonised by skin microbial populations that are connected to food, age and the specific body location examined. These baseline data are critical for determining how the skin’s microbiota affects skin health and disease,” states the Data Bridge Market Research report. It further maintains that the factors which are projected to boost market growth are microbiome skincare products’ capacity to protect the skin from harmful organisms. Other factors, such as their ability to control skin pH, create essential skin nutrients and lipids, and make skin seem healthier and more resilient will propel the market forward. Furthermore, increasing technical advancements and the introduction of new customised goods derived from natural ingredients are some of the key drivers predicted to drive market growth throughout the forecast period. The skin microbiota has been identified as a stimulating therapeutic approach in skin illnesses, including psoriasis and acne vulgaris. (Source: https://www. databridgemarketresearch.com/ reports/global-skin-microbiomemarket)

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INDUSTRY NEWS

Saxon Spa creates new journey using exclusive local products The award-winning spa at the Saxon Hotel in Sandton has introduced a new treatment with South African ingredients that have been used for traditional skin healing for many years. Named The SOUL by Saxon signature journey, the treatment follows on from the successful launch of the SOUL amenity range in December last year. Says spa manager Tanya Lopes: “The signature products were designed especially for this bespoke journey. Our exfoliator contains apricot kernel and rooibos leaves for their exfoliative properties and shea butter, aloe ferox, moringa oil and African potato for its anti-oxidant, skin replenishing and nourishing properties. Following the exfoliation is an imbola red kaolin clay mask which facilitates the absorption of the active ingredients into the skin.

“A nourishing massage oil of marula and Cape geranium are used for a deep massage to end the treatment off. All the ingredients used in the SOUL by Saxon body range are sourced through responsible and carefully selected farmers across South Africa, making this a truly, proudly South African product.” Lopes explains that The SOUL by Saxon Signature Journey begins with a mindfulness journey as do all other treatments in the spa. She continues: “This moment of connection allows the guest to be entirely relaxed, present and in the moment. A full body exfoliation with our signature moringa scrub follows on from this. Our therapist then applies an imbola red kaolin mask. Once the mask has had time to settle on the skin, the guest will then be able to enjoy a refreshing shower in their treatment room before enjoying a full body massage with our newly developed Cape geranium and marula massage oil. The therapist will incorporate traditional African tools such as the rungu stick, calabash and rain stick into the massage for a deep pressure massage, and to improve lymph drainage and blood circulation whilst reducing the stress stored in the body. “We wanted to create a Signature Journey that would enhance the SOUL by Saxon body range, always ensuring that we stick to the values that lay at the base of this range and using responsibly sourced local ingredients in order to give our guests a uniquely South African Journey.”

Why you should be wary of ‘sunscreen contouring’ A new TikTok trend where people are applying different levels of sunscreen to their face in a manner akin to contouring their cheekbones has notched up some 55,000 views on TikTok. However, experts are warning against the #sunscreencontour trend, categorising it as dangerous. Says Dermalogica education manager, Victoria Evans: “This trend can cause long-lasting damage to your skin. Any tanned contour lines are essentially sun damage markings. Using different levels of sunscreen as in this viral trend causes unnecessary sun exposure, which can cause you further problems with your skin.

“Sunburn is caused by exposure to UVB radiation and burning can take place in as little as 5 to10 minutes. The face, neck and trunk are two to four times more sensitive than the limbs and will burn more readily. It’s important to note that all skins can burn, and that you should wear SPF consistently to prevent this,” The #sunscreencontour trend has emerged following research conducted by educational website Tajmeeli released in May, which revealed that tanning and sunburn tips were some of the top summer beauty searches in the UK. (Source: Professional Beauty UK) Photo by Shiny Diamond from Pexels

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INDUSTRY NEWS

New moves at Bargaining Council

Photo by Max Vakhtbovych

Spa industry well-positioned to meet changing needs of consumers The global spa industry is well-positioned to meet the needs of consumers now and going forward, according to data collated by the International SPA Association (ISPA) Foundation. More than half of the current spa-goers (58 percent) surveyed in ISPA’s recent Consumer Snapshot initiative – ‘New Era, New Consumer’ – said they visited a spa for the first time in the past two years. Thirty-nine percent said they visit the spa more often now than before the pandemic. The largest portion of respondents (47 percent) said they use a hybrid approach to receiving spa services, which includes receiving some services at a spa location and supplementing those with at-home service options. Sixty-five percent of spa-goers noted they will focus more on their health and wellbeing now than in the past. ISPA maintains that these figures suggest

that the industry is in a strong position. The study, commissioned by the ISPA Foundation and conducted in partnership with PricewaterhouseCoopers, sought to examine the habits, attitudes and expectations of consumers (spa-goers and non-spa-goers alike) as they consider the lingering effects of the Covid-19 pandemic and continue to evaluate concerns surrounding their physical and mental well-being. Says PwC Global Research leader Colin McIlheney: “Understanding how consumers view their relationship with spa – and, importantly, how that relationship may have been changed by the events of recent years – will afford leaders and professionals around the spa industry the opportunity to step into this new era with greater confidence. That starts with understanding who visits the spa, what they want from the experience and why they value it.”

The National Bargaining Council for the Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Beauty & Skincare Industry (HCSBC) announced the appointment of its new chairperson and vice-chairperson at the Annual General Meeting held in July. Petunia Matjebe was appointed as chairperson and Dane Frost as vicechairperson of the Council Board, for a two-year period, 2022 - 2024. The Bargainng Council was formed to achieve peace, stability and standards in the industry in South Africa. Its role is to promote collective bargaining in the industry and the conclusion and enforcement of collective agreements, and the prevention of disputes (or if they can’t be prevented, a speedy dispute resolution process). All salons and spas are required by law to register with the Bargaining Council.

SAAHSP announces new registered designation The Advanced Aesthetic Therapist Designation has been approved by SAQA (South African Qualifications Authority) and is now a registered designation of SAAHSP (South African Association of Health & Skincare Professionals). This designation is defined as a therapist having engaged in further studies and achieved an Advanced Diploma or Degree qualification. SAAHP’s Joelette Theron elaborates: “These therapists have extensive training in skin anatomy and physiology, skin

conditions, cosmetic chemistry and science and are trained to analyse and treat skin and body conditions through a variety of advanced techniques. “Typically, they would work in a medical setting such as medi spas, skin rejuvenation clinics and medical aesthetic practices. They work alongside doctors specialising in cosmetic surgical and/or non-surgical treatments, and have completed advanced training in laser, IPL, skin peels, photo rejuvenation and micro-needling.”

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BUSINESS TIPS

scale without justification, whereas the male employees are remunerated at a much higher scale for doing the same work.

Indirect discrimination

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

Indirect discrimination is not as easily recognisable as it is a subtler form of discrimination. It involves the application of policies and practices that are apparently neutral and do not explicitly distinguish between employees and job applicants but, in reality, have a disproportionate and negative effect on certain individuals or groups. For example, where the job advertisement without justification, requires that applicants must live in a particular area knowing that the residents of that area are predominantly from a particular race group.

In legal terms, what is the difference between unfair discrimination and fair discrimination in the workplace? iscrimination occurs when an employer treats a person differently based on physical attributes or other factors such as religion or political belief. The act of differentiation may at times be fair, but it is more commonly found that differentiated treatment is unfair. Discrimination may be fair or unfair. Every employer must take steps to promote equal opportunity in the workplace by eliminating unfair discrimination in any employment policy or practice. Unfair discrimination occurs when an employer shows favour, prejudice or bias for or against a person on a prohibited ground, including a person’s race, gender, sex, pregnancy, marital status, family responsibility, ethnic or social origin, colour, sexual orientation, age, disability, religion, HIV status, conscience, belief, political opinion, culture, language or birth, or on any other arbitrary ground. Where the differentiation is not obviously on one or more of these prohibited grounds, then whether or not there is discrimination will depend upon whether, objectively, the ground is based on attributes and characteristics of the person which have the potential to impair the fundamental human dignity of persons as human beings or to affect them in a comparably serious manner. There are two main forms of discrimination related to “unfair discrimination”, namely: • Direct discrimination; and • Indirect discrimination.

Direct discrimination

This is easily identifiable and involves obvious differential treatment between employees and job applicants on the basis of any grounds. For example, an employer follows a policy of remunerating women employees on a lower

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Photo by Tima Miroshnichenko from Pexels

The Employment Equity Act (EEA) also emphasises that: Harassment of an employee is a form of unfair discrimination and is prohibited on any one or a combination of the above-mentioned grounds of unfair discrimination. Medical testing at the request of an employer will not be allowed unless legislation permits or requires the testing, or it is justifiable in the light of medical facts, employment conditions, social policy, the fair distribution of employee benefits or the inherent requirements of a job. HIV-testing can only be carried out at the request of an employer if such testing is determined justifiable by the Labour Court. Psychometric testing or other assessments at the request of an employer cannot be done unless such tests are scientifically valid, can be applied fairly and are not biased against any employee or group. Essentially one has to give consideration to the impact of actions, policies and procedures when evaluating discriminatory practices, rather than intention. It is not unfair discrimination to: • Take affirmative action measures consistent with the purpose of the Employment Equity Act; or • Distinguish, exclude or prefer any person on the basis of an inherent requirement of a job.

The above article was penned by the EOHCB (Employer’s Organisation for Hairdressing Cosmetology Beauty). To make contact with the EOHCB go to www.eohcb.co.za

BUSINESS TIPS

IF A CLIENT is more than 5 MINUTES LATE, the customer should UNDERSTAND THAT THEIR TREATMENT TIME will be CUT ACCORDINGLY. The client needs to understand that they will still, however, PAY FULL PRICE for their treatment.

How to

neutralise cancellations Beauty professional Diana van Sittert reveals the art of dealing with last minute client cancellations and late comers

f you have never done this exercise, this is the time to do it. Ask yourself – how much is your (or your therapist’s) time worth? When we start breaking the answer to this question down into rands and cents, you might be in for the shock of your life. Let’s look at an example that you can apply in your business. 1. You pay your therapist R8,000 per month. 2. If she/ he works 8 hours a day, 6 days a week, your therapist is costing you R166.66 per hour. 3. Let’s assume you have 5 ‘no show’ clients per week – the cost to you would be R3,333.20…SHOCKING! Now add the profit of, for example, R300 per hour you could have made. This adds another R6,000. 4. Let’s assume you have 3 therapists in your business – that is a total loss of R27,999.60 per month.

Photo by Fleur van Deijck from Pexels

Crucial administrative matters to implement immediately

• You need to create policies and procedures on how ‘no shows’ and ‘late comers’ will be handled. This needs to be visible in the salon in the form of a poster or on your treatment menu (for example), with the addition of a QR code that a client can scan (this helps to refer them to your policies as a backup when needed). Your policies and procedures must be properly discussed with your staff so that they know why they are being implemented, how to handle uncomfortable situations that may arise from the implementation process and when to refer the client to management or the owner of the business (when the client simply will not listen to or understand anyone else except a ‘higher power’). Use role play scenarios with your staff to ensure that your staff can handle these customers and do not communicate with these clients in such a way that the customer will never return or smear your business name through the mud. • After implementing the above point, consistency is key. If you do not follow through on your policies even once, this sends a subliminal message to clients, and it will give them the opportunity to do as they please. • You need to implement a reminder system. Many salons choose to use an automated sms system, but let’s be honest, who reads sms’s today? WhatsApp is far more effective and personal.

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BUSINESS TIPS

• Implement a courtesy reminder call the day before the appointment as this gives the client the opportunity to cancel ahead of time and allows you to fill the gap by phoning clients from your waiting list. • An online booking system is a very effective way to handle these concerns as the client has the freedom to control their lives (which is a big need for the modern customer), and you can track the clients that shift their appointments outside of the acceptable 24 hour cancellation period.

2. If this happens a second time with the same client, you need to start charging the client the treatment price when he/ she is in your salon, for the next pre-booked appointment. Remember that you teach people how they treat you if they feel guilty for behaving badly. 3. Create a ‘naughty list’ of serial ‘no show’ clients. Once a client has shown the same behaviour 3 times in a period of 3 months, you can choose to not make any further bookings for the client and refer them to another salon in your surrounding area. This may seem harsh, but would you not rather have a paying client, that arrives on time instead of taking the chance with a non-reliable client?

Some guidance on dealing with ‘late comers’

1. If a client is more than 5 minutes late, the customer should understand that their treatment time will be cut accordingly and in line with that, the physical activities performed in the treatment (she/ he may not receive a mask in the treatment to make up for lost time). The client needs to understand that they will still, however, pay full price for their treatment. It is unfair and unacceptable to be late for the next client who arrives on time. 2. If a client is more than 10-15 minutes late, you can include a ‘late fee’ into your policies to deter serial ‘late comers’ from repeating the behaviour.

Create a ‘NAUGHTY LIST’ of SERIAL ‘NO SHOW’ CLIENTS. Once a CLIENT HAS SHOWN the SAME BEHAVIOUR 3 TIMES in a period of 3 MONTHS, you can choose to NOT MAKE ANY FURTHER BOOKINGS for the client and REFER THEM TO ANOTHER SALON in your surrounding area.

Image by Robin Higgins from Pixabay

Remain understanding

As important as policies and procedures, as well as the implementation thereof, are, it is also crucial to be understanding. Every single person will at some point have a valid reason for being late, forgetting about an appointment (especially if you have not implemented a reminder system), or not showing up because of last minute crises. You do not want to stick to your ‘in the box thinking’ so strictly that you cannot apply understanding for clients who do not normally show bad behaviour.

Dealing with ‘no shows’

1. For the first time ‘no show’ client, it is imperative that you call the client and discuss this verbally in a friendly and civilised manner, whilst still making it very clear that you will not allow this again and what the result will be as per policies and procedures created, should it happen again. Having a conversation helps to build a stronger relationship and makes the client feel guilty which will, in most cases, stop the behaviour.

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Diana van Sittert, currently project and brand development manager for Lime Light (EMSA distribution), has been in the beauty industry for 22 years, starting as a somatologist. She has worked for top national and international brands like Placecol, Nimue, Salonquip, AHAVA, Dermalogica, pHformula, 365 Skin Workout and SkinPhD. She is well versed in beauty therapy, sales, area management, education, business development and product formulation project management.

BUSINESS TIPS

Photo by Dellon Thomas from Pexels

5 tips to increase footfall in your salon

Spa consultant Marisa Dimitriadis details some useful strategies on how to get more clients through the door he definition of footfall is the sound of a footstep and, as a business owner today, that is music to your ears, right? Calculating footfall is quite an interesting metric to increase sales and boost profits. If you can identify at whatever time of day the number of purchasing opportunities you have in your space, and how many sales opportunities are missed, then you are essentially counting your footfall.

Tip 1: Are you listed correctly on Google?

What do you get when you type in ‘salon near me’ on Google? So, before putting any ideas into place for increasing footfall, get the basics sorted first and ensure you are visible when people look for your type of service. You might

YOUR WEBSITE should really be like the RECEPTIONIST TO YOUR SALON/ SPA, able to ANSWER QUESTIONS and TAKE BOOKINGS effortlessly. 16

think this is a basic tip but you will be shocked at how many salons and spas are not correctly listed with Google on https://business.google.com/. It’s free, by the way.

Tip 2: What does your website look like?

When last did you refresh and revamp your website? This is your business’s first impression. Your website should really be like the receptionist to your salon/ spa, able to answer questions and take bookings effortlessly. Is your website smart phone friendly and easy to navigate? Does your website prompt bookings and a visit with some sort of drawcard, be it a ‘Book your free consultation now’ link, or a ‘Book now to enjoy an extra 10% off’ offer.

Tip 3: Online booking capability

Your software programme needs to be able to take online bookings. This feature should also be connected to your website and all social channels. Speaking of software programmes, are you tapping into your current clients for referrals through the booking system? And, is your database updated and clean and fresh?

Tip 4: Before & after pics

These are powerful marketing tools that can get instant bookings for the services you offer. When you take a pic,

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BUSINESS TIPS MOST PEOPLE make decisions BASED ON REFERRALS and this is MORE POWERFUL than you can EVER IMAGINE. ensure it has the correct lighting and that it is positioned at the right angle, but only take the pic when there is an actual visible difference and change on the skin, or whatever other treatment you are showcasing. Write up the treatment and what it does for the skin and offer the first 10 people to book within the hour a free add-on service. Then, be sure to post it to the platforms that your target market speaks to. If you are mainly servicing Instagram, don’t waste time on Facebook and LinkedIn, for example. Remember that if you don’t have a large enough audience on Instagram, then no matter how many before & after pics you post you won’t get the traction you need. So make sure your audience is the right audience and that you have built up your following.

Tip 5: Testimonials and reviews

Ask your clients for reviews and testimonials and

don’t be shy about it. Get as many Google and Facebook reviews as possible, as this makes you more visible on the internet while potential clients are researching you. Most people make decisions based on referrals and this is more powerful than you can ever imagine. I have a client whose entire business growth has come from referrals and before & after pics on WhatsApp groups. And when I say growth, I mean double- and triple-digit growth over the past 12 months. I get asked weekly about how to attract new clients and when I investigate the basics, at least three or four of the above points are not in place or not speaking to each other. It really is critical today that the basics are in place for your business before you get fancy ideas about marketing campaigns and events, etc. So, get the basics done properly and be consistent and then you can put your foot on the pedal with more creative ways to increase footfall.

Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder and owner of The Spa Consultants and a co-founder of The Spa Professionals Guild. Email marisa@spaprofessionalsguild.com

INTERVIEW

Talking to…

Candice Thurston Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to Candice Thurston, founder of Candi & Co Hair & Beauty Salon and marketing executive for the Sorbet Group, about innovation in the industry and taking both brands to the next level

There have been many articles written about your career in hair & beauty, but how would you describe yourself?

I would say game-changer, in having conceived and launched Candi & Co. Through this I redefined what people in the hair industry thought was possible and not possible. At that time, eight years ago, people didn’t think it was possible to have a salon offering premium hair services for Afro-textured hair. They also didn’t think it was possible to treat more than one type of hair that fell into that category.

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INTERVIEW

A Sorbet salon

THE DIGITAL LANDSCAPE in terms of MARKETING CHANGES MONTHLY, so I turned the DIGITAL COMPONENT of SORBET’S MARKETING onto 300KM AN HOUR, from VIDEO CONTENT to SEO to web content to SMS to EMAIL MESSAGING. Secondly, I’m an industry-changer. When we stared Candi & Co, there were no home-grown natural hair brands. Thirdly, I’m very passionate about understanding people’s needs. We all want to make money but there is also a higher purpose at stake. Driving equality in the hair & beauty space and in terms of Afro-textured hair types was super-important to me. I think Candi & Co has done a great job so far, but it’s a really long road and we are only 10% of the way there. At Candi & Co, we’re talking to a very high LSM (6 – 10) and I want equality in hair services for the lower LSMs too.

What business challenges did you, as a young, black female entrepreneur, face in wanting to launch your own business?

Just being an entrepreneur, whatever your age, race or gender, is challenging. In my experience, it was tough to learn how to deal with landlords and to figure out capex. During the Candi & Co conception phase, I approached the Sorbet Group’s then CEO, Ian Fuhr, as I had always loved Sorbet and what it stood for. So, having Sorbet as a big brother was obviously hugely helpful – Candi & Co is fully owned by the Group. My previous work experience at MTN and Unilever did help me to deal with the business aspects of capital and capex. It was also challenging entering an industry I didn’t yet understand. The second challenge was trying to make people understand what I wanted to do in the hair sector. I would say the third major challenge was finding the right people to train for Candi & Co – at Sorbet they are called ‘Citizens’. We invested a lot of money in training.

What beauty services did you include when the first Candi & Co salon opened in Randburg Square?

At launch, we focused on hair and nails as we figured the two went together. As time went by, some of the Candi &

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Co franchised salons also introduced lash services. One or two stores now offer facials as well, but it’s really not a big part of their business.

It has been said that you ‘deracialised hair’ – please comment.

One of the things I focused on was the science of hair and really understanding the different types of hair. All hair is made of protein and it needs moisture – so the difference is the curly texture and Afro-textured hair. Curly hair needs much more moisture and water. You need to understand the voracity of hair. There are 4 types of hair – straight, wavy, curly and highly textured/ Afro-texture. And then there are also lots of different curl types.

When did you launch the Candi by Candi & Co hair extension range? It was back in 2017. We used other suppliers until then but were driven to create our own range that would meet our needs and price point. Development was a long and involved process as there are so many different types of hair.

When did you become the Sorbet Group marketing executive?

It was in August 2020. The position opened up and the Group thought I would be suited to the job. Over the years I had thought about becoming involved in Sorbet marketing as I had 10 years of marketing experience at MTN and Unilever. So because of this, I was excited to take on the brand and move it to the next level.

How do you manage to juggle your Sorbet marketing duties with Candi & Co? Well, Candi & Co is now fully integrated into the Sorbet

INTERVIEW

Group and so is handled by area managers. Previously, I did everything at Candi & Co but I still now obviously look after its marketing.

What innovations have you introduced during your tenure as the Group’s marketing executive?

The first thing I did when I took over was to clarify and clearly understand what the Sorbet brand stood for and what the future of the brand could look like. I looked at the existing 5- to 10-year growth strategies and studied each of the brands within the Group (including Sorbet Man and Sorbet Drybars), the vision of the brand, and consumer services. It was important to understand what the voice of the brand is. My predecessor, Jade Fuhr, had done a great job for the first six years of Sorbet’s existence. I spent a lot of time on brand positioning, brand voice and looking at corporate identity. The digital landscape in terms of marketing changes monthly, so I turned the digital component of Sorbet’s marketing onto 300km an hour, from video content to SEO to web content to SMS to email messaging. I also focused on building really good relationships with social media influencers. We put a great deal of attention on franchise partners and did lots of training. In addition, we implemented a digital platform on the back end called YEXT, to make Sorbet stores easier to find on the internet. We really digitised the business from an internal perspective as well, creating Sorbet Central and Share Point as resources for our franchisees. Obviously, a big part of my goal was to bring inclusivity into the brand so it could talk to everyone, whatever their racial profile, gender or sexuality. I was also involved in terms of implementing major innovations, such as introducing new skincare brands, ingestibles and introducing cut & colour treatments in our Drybars.

Obviously, a BIG PART OF MY GOAL was to BRING INCLUSIVITY INTO the SORBET BRAND so it could TALK TO EVERYONE, whatever their RACIAL PROFILE, GENDER OR SEXUALITY. In terms of footfall into Candi & Co and Sorbet Salons – are you beginning to get close to pre-pandemic numbers?

We have seen a really nice recovery across our brands. I’m grateful that the Group emerged from Covid relatively unscathed. Obviously the support of our holding company, Long4Life, has contributed to that. We spent money where we needed to, such as in training. Last year we also did the first full brand Sorbet TV ad, which aired on DStv and pushed Sorbet into the realm of big brands. That ad notched up 14 million views. I believe that our marketing has succeeded at keeping the Sorbet brand top of mind.

Candice Thurston presents at the recent launch of Sorbet’s ‘Hello Me’ campaign

What have been the main lessons learnt during your career in hair & beauty?

That Rome wasn’t built in a day and that patience is extremely important. But really, the biggest lesson was to showcase, in really tough times, what the brand is all about and to believe in the impossible. Sorbet now has almost 200 franchisees and they each hold their businesses in their own hands from a brand perspective. You always have to be willing to listen to both frachisees and customers and be ready to collaborate.

What advice would you give to aspirational beauty/ hair entrepreneurs?

Firstly, when embarking on your journey, whether it be services, product or retail, do your homework. Research intently because it’s not that easy to start your own business. However, there is space for everyone in the market. Starting a beauty business is all about understanding the numbers of everything – marketing, stock, legal, rental, staff, training – it all requires day-to-day management. Work out exactly what kind of revenue you need to generate to be successful. Secondly, build your brand as if it is going to be a global brand. If you create a product and go into a retail store, the profit margins are very different to selling in a salon or running a salon. So create your business model as befitting a global brand. This is where a lot of local entrepreneurs fall down, they think only about the domestic market. Thirdly, you need to be purpose driven to be a successful brand. Know what needs of your target market need to be filled. Listen to your salon guests and consumers – often they don’t know what they want, so it’s up to you to suggest to them what they need.

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SHOW PREVIEW

It’s show time!

After an agonising absence of 2 years due to the Covid pandemic, Professional Beauty’s flagship Johannesburg Expo returns to Gallagher Convention Centre on 28 and 29 August. Here we showcase just some of the exhibiting companies and brands Aesthetic Laser Academy

American Piercing Systems

www.LaserAcademy.co.za Aesthetic Laser Academy is dedicated to providing you with comprehensive, hands on practical and theoretical Advanced Aesthetic Laser training. Our Aesthetic Laser Courses are ideal to increase the skills of Students, Beauty Therapists, Salon Owners and Entrepreneurs.

www.aps-studex.co.za APS is the exclusive importer of STUDEX® ear piercing products. STUDEX® is the global leader in the production and distribution of high quality guaranteed medical sterile ear piercing equipment. We have a wide range of ear piercing products and a highly competent sales force.

Al Kayenat

Anesi Blue

www.alkayenat.com Al Kayenat, Dubai, established in 2013, is a Dubai-based leading Manufacturing & Distributing Firm of Cosmetics, Skincare, Perfumes & Natural Oils. It stands by a purpose to improve and bring goodness in people’s health, hygiene, wellbeing and lifestyle through meaningful beauty innovations.

Bio-Plant Wax is at the forefront of the natural and sustainable beauty trend. A new unique, completely natural and effective, superior quality waxing system, formulated with Bio-Plant Based resins. Softer, healthier, and smoother skin with a more natural approach to waxing and peace of mind for environmentally aware clients! Visit us at stand F3 to find out what all the fuss is about.

Contact Exclusive Beauty Solutions at; Tel: 011 791 4027 Email: orders@exclusivebeauty. co.za

Angel Artistry www.angelartistry.co.za Angel Artistry founders Irene Erasmus and Cindy Potgieter created a brand very close to their hearts. With a clear vision in mind, products were born. Finely selected colours, textures and custom designed packaging confirms the mission statement of the company. We offer liquid matte lipstick, luxurious invisible magnetic lashes and professional make-up brushes.

Anke Products www.ankeproducts.co.za The Ultimate Home Accessories and home of the patented design wooden top diffuser. We are creators

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SHOW PREVIEW

brand that creates award-winning and clinically proven products for anti-ageing. Launched in 2014, our products are now sold in more than 30 countries around the world.

Digital Nail Art Print www.my02nails.co.za Struggling with nail art? Visit stand F24 to see full colour digital nail art printing in seconds! Digital Nail Art Printer SA has the easiest, quickest nail art and gel colour money saving solutions for you! of signature fragrance oil scents that are long-lasting. Our product range has expanded to include soy candles, room and linen sprays and essential oils. We pride ourselves on providing the ultimate fragrant home accessory.

Best Lasers www.bestlasers.co.za Best Lasers is the sole Sub-Saharan Africa distributor for Alma Lasers International, a global developer, manufacturer and provider of laser, light-based, radiofrequency, and ultrasound devices for aesthetic and medical applications. We include full clinical training, certifications, delivery, and technical and marketing support. Whether you have a practice, clinic, salon, or spa, we have an aesthetic system for you. All our systems are CE and FDA approved.

Beyond Wellness Group www.thebeyondwellnessgroup.com Healing us, calming us down, helping us to sleep better and feel more optimistic. Healing Epsom Salts in a hot bath – 20 minutes to really relax in silence with exquisite fragrances. Sounds like just what we need in these uncertain times. Visit us at F52 for salon specials, giveaways and discounts.

Biosculpture www.biosculpture.co.za Our purpose is to provide quality products and professional training, empowering nail technicians to offer healthy and fashionable nail care systems, guided by an ethical business approach. Visit our stand for more information and unbelievable specials!

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Blue Sky

Esse Skincare

www.blueskyinternational.co.za Blue Sky Distribution International brings world class, clinically proven aesthetic products to Africa and the world. The expert team from Beauté Pacifique Medical Skin Care, RapidLash and Sprezzatura Clinical Weight Management as well as the NEW DEFIANCE Medical Collagen will be on hand to demonstrate the latest in invasive and topical aesthetic skincare, clinically proven Lash, Brow and Hair Enhancement and the new Medical Aid Claimable Sprezzatura Weight Management programme.

www.esseskincare.com Microbiome skincare is a science. Optimal skin condition depends on the probiotic microbes living on and in it. Without microbes, your skin can’t perform its basic functions and the rate of skin ageing increases sharply. Esse exists to keep it at its wild best. Esse uses organic biotechnology to create an environment on skin that favours the growth of beneficial microbes, allowing your natural microbial diversity to return. Our products feature probiotics and prebiotics in organic formulations that help restore balance. Rewild your skin.

Brisan www.brisandistributors.co.za BRISAN’s portfolio includes the sole distribution rights for 6 top international spa and salon brands: Alexandria Professional Body Sugaring, Pevonia, Malu Wilz, Pronails, John van G and bdr-Beauty Defect Repair. BRISAN will be launching its Alexandria Professional KiSS Strip Sugar and new MALU WILZ make-up range. Visit our stand to see a demo of Alexandria Body Sugaring and Strip Sugar and touch and feel our MALU WILZ make-up range. Great show specials.

Calgel www.cal-mo.com Calgel is a durable soft-gel system, developed in South Africa in 1981. Its easy soak-off formula is now internationally recognised for its natural look and non-damaging properties.

Collagen Lift Paris www.collagenliftparis.co.za Collagen Lift Paris is a French beauty

Haya to be www.hayatobe.co.za HAYA ‘to be’ is more than just a skincare range, we believe it is the future of skincare. Where the outcome of using skincare is not just to enhance appearance, but to have a positive emotional influence on the end user.

Hitech Lasers (Pty) Ltd. www.hitechlasers.co.za www.medilase.co.za The Hitech Group, established in 1974, provides the highest quality aesthetic-medical systems with the widest range of aesthetic applications available in South Africa. 2 Featured products: ONDA PLUS – a multi-award system - with patented Coolwaves®, through 3 handpieces dissolves fat, treats cellulite, tightens and contours the skin. MOTUS AY, FDA approved Alexandrite & Nd:YAG laser, allows treatment of numerous dermatology concerns and pain-free hair removal on ALL skin and hair types.

SHOW PREVIEW Imperial Today, as many as 25 million medical professionals globally do not have access to medical imaging, which is proven to improve patient care and reduce healthcare costs. As pioneers in miniaturizing ultrasound, we’re on a mission to make medical imaging accessible everywhere by delivering high-performance, affordable and easy-to-use solutions with the power of artificial intelligence. We’re miniaturizing high quality point-of-care ultrasound to offer a safe and cost-effective option for clinicians in every speciality. Clarius - An image you can trust.

Jax Wax www.jaxwax.co.za Come and try our Vegan Friendly new range of waxes called Cape York Amber. These are extra gentle and soothing for the skin and can be used on extra sensitive skin. We can’t wait to see you at our stand J3 at the Professional Beauty Expo at Gallagher Estate on 28 and 29 August!

Lays Beauty www.laysbeauty.com In October 2004, a quality beauty range was developed with the flagship product, Lays tissue oil. Our other products include Lays lotions, Lays Hair oil, Lays Pain Oil, massage oils, essentials oils and carrier oils.

Leonelda www.leoneldaproducts.com Leonelda Products have grown to be one of the largest wholesale beauty suppliers in the country trusted by salons and spas for over 28 years. We distribute a wide range of products, including several wellknown brands to ensure you obtain everything you need from us. Make sure to visit our stands (E8 & E10) at Professional Beauty for incredible show specials.

Lilian Terry www.lilianterry.co.za Lilian Terry International are the creators and leaders in homeopathic aromatherapy. Our range of products – formulated by a clinical aromatherapist and a medical doctor & homeopath – includes various massage oils, body

polish & wraps and silicone massage cups, which are available in professional use and retail products. Made in South Africa since 1996.

Lime Light Lime Light is South Africa’s biggest supplier to the professional hair and beauty industry with over 13 000 products to choose from. You can get everything you need for your business under one roof. SPECIAL OFFERS Up to 30% discount on hair colour and retail brands, barber brands, beauty brands, hair colour systems as well as hair and beauty consumables Up to 30% off on hair and beauty salon furniture and equipment. Plus! Up to 30% off on the world’s number one comfort wax system, Depilève as well Depilève retail products. Experience the world’s number 1 wax, Depilève with the opportunity to test the wide range of wax offering.

MotherKind Motherkindco.co.za Motherkind is one of South Africa’s most trusted and innovative collagen brands. We create life-transforming nutritional supplements that promote kindness to the body from within. Our hydrolyzed collagen peptides are of the finest quality, and we have the scientific results to prove it.

My Appointment www.myappointment.co.za My Appointment is an online booking app and fully cloud-based point of sale. Manage your business easily and conveniently from anywhere. Allow your business to generate revenue 24/7 by selling online and letting your clients book their own appointments through our mobile app. Anytime. Anywhere.

MY BEAUTY LUV www.mybeautyluv.com Award-winning nutricosmetic brand, MY BEAUTY LUV, was one of the first salon, professional-grade, luxury, ingestible beauty supplement brands in South Africa. With advanced, exclusive formulas & ingredients, we are pioneering the nutricosmetic market in SA.

NSI www.nsisouthafrica.co.za Looking for a Reliable & Professional Nail Product Supplier? NSI South Africa is the brand for you. Come and meet our well educated and friendly team of experts at stand G17. FREE Product Demonstrations will be available every day on the hour and DISCOUNTED product kits will be available both days.

Nspa Lizze, manufactured in Brazil, is designed especially for professionals in the hair and beauty industry. This device can take your hair treatments

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SHOW PREVIEW

and even your skin treatments to the next level. Treat hair loss, give your clients thicker hair, stronger hair and enhance the condition of their skin all in one venue. Hair irons, hair dryers, curly machines and even photon devices are all guaranteed to make your day-to day services 100x better than before.

Premier Beauty Academy www.premierbeautyacademy.co.za Premier Beauty Academy is the sole Distributor for the Profosma Plasma Pen for Southern Africa and will be showcasing this ground-breaking technology and offering amazing deals at the Professional Beauty Expo 2022.

Patricia Clarke www.patriciaclarke.co.za Patricia Clarke Contouring Solutions offer an all-day everyday solution to quick and easy centimeter loss and body contouring. Visit us at Stand E14 on 28th and 29th August at Gallagher and take advantage of our amazing show offers.

Radiant Healthcare www.radianthealth.co.za South Africa’s leading Aesthetic & Medical equipment distributor. Established in 2004, Radiant Health has been on a mission to supply the South African market with the latest technology, transparent and friendly service, as well as equipment to suit every need.

Rapple www.rapple.co.za Rapple Products is a wholesale supplier to the hair, beauty & barber

industry that offers a wide range of professional hair products, equipment, accessories & furniture. Come visit our stands (K17 & L1) and see what we have to offer.

Refectocil www.refectocil.co.za Create a unique Lash and Brow style, through 8 RefectoCil tint colours and blonde brow paste, with our new care products range and tools.

RégimA www.regima.zone RégimA was established 1996 and is a multiple award winning skincare brand distributed exclusively to Doctors, Salons and Spas. Unrivalled Costings. World First supremely advanced technology provides maximum anti-ageing! The exciting new RégimA MEDIC Range includes the exclusive PEEL de MONACO 86% Ultimate Power, FRUTION SERUM de MONACO. RégimA – “PRODUCTS THAT CHANGE LIVES”.

Red Velvet Gel and Dany Cosmetics Redvelvet gel was founded in 2015 and called RVG in short. We are a manufacturer and professional supplier of proprietary nail and beauty care products. All the products are the perfect combination of science and art.

SA Beauty & Hair www.sabeautydistributors.co.za/ SA Beauty & Hair Distributors imports and distributes both hair and beauty products. We specialize in offering the industry a wide range of high-quality, cost-effective salon products and essentials exclusive to our company. We are a perfect one-stop-shop for all your treatment needs. Special offers for smooth skin, legs and feet.

Salon Care www.saloncare.co.za Saloncare is a 27-year-old professional, thoughtfully priced skincare facial and body range comprising of enzymes, alpha hydroxies, massage media, serums etcetera for machine, manual, micro-peeling, micro-needling, electrotherapy treatments in salon/ spa/somatology institutes and result-driven homecare.

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Shamar International Shamar International pty ltd is an International company which has been in business for 20 years based in KZN. It supplies cosmetics throughout the country and services all ethnic groups at wholesale and retail levels. We pride ourselves on catering to our clients’ preferences and complement women with style.

Sunskin www.sunskin.co.za SUNSKIN is a Sunscreen, & Collagen & Skin Care company that manufactures & distributes high-end FULL SPECTRUM (UVA, UVB, HEV & IR-A) sunscreens. Excellent Dry Touch Feel, breathable with an Anti-Pollution Shield and with modern photostable filters. Suitable for everybody of all ages.

The Spa Consultants www.thespaconsultants.co.za The Spa Consultants has all the solutions you are looking for in your salons and spas. We offer: Spa coaching; Brand partner that delivers excellence always; SIX Skincare that delivers optimal results at affordable prices; Corrective aesthetix treatments; Dermaplaning; Collagen Induction Therapy; Plasma Wave; Microhyrabrasion Deluxe; RF Microneedling; Cryolipolysis Fat Freeze; Spalicious professional and body health range; and Babala baby & toddler range. Cryolipolysis Fat Freeze and RF Microneedling demos will be showcased at the Professional Beauty Expo. We look forward to seeing you and offering you special show prices on the day.

Yoco www.yoco.com/za/ “Yoco is an African technology company. We create opportunities for entrepreneurs to get paid and be more successful. Every day, we break down barriers and create access so that more businesses can participate in the economy and thrive. Visit our stand (T14) to learn more about our card machines; online payment systems and Yoco business products that get you paid. We will be running an event-only special, where you will get a R100 discount off the purchase of any of our card machines!”

CONFERENCE NEWS

28 & 29 August, Gallagher Convention Centre

World Spa & Wellness Convention DAY ONE - Sunday, 28 August 9h00 Registration 9h30 Welcome by Professional Beauty Group CEO, Mark Moloney 9h45 Keynote: Selling in Tough Times – The secret to success in a world of limited opportunity In this practical, high-impact keynote, you will learn the secrets and practices of businesses that continue to sell in the toughest economic circumstances. Shelley Walters, Sales Specialist and Founder of The Sales Counsel 10h35 What’s Hot in the World of Spa and What’s Not? Which of the current trends permeating the international spa and wellness sector are fad, and which are likely to have staying power? How can they be incorporated into you treatment menu? Kent Richards, Corporate Operations Director (Spas - Global) Six Senses; Andrew Barge, Independent Spa Consultant; and Marisa Dimitriadis, Founder, The Spa Professionals Guild 11h25 Tea Break 11h45 Mind Over Matter – Mental Wellness This panel discussion will look at mental wellness programmes that can be integrated into the spa treatment offering for guests, and also

implemented for staff members. David Goncalves, Psychologist; Ingrid R. Pollack, Founder, Inner Essence Holistic Therapies; and Verona Duwarkah, Business &Life Coach and Consultant 12h35 Lunch, Networking Break and Expo Floor Visit

trend of customisation and question whether the formal spa treatment menu might soon become a thing of the past. Kent Richards, Corporate Operations Director (Spas - Global) Six Senses; Andrew Barge, Independent Spa Consultant; and Marisa Dimitriadis, Founder, The Spa Professionals Guild

14h30 Sustainability Round-up With an increasingly urgent focus on climate change, it’s important to know what leading spas around the world are doing in terms of sustainable practices. Charne le Roux, Founder of GreenSpaAfrica.com; and Tania Pheiffer of Woodlands Spa

10h20 Signature Moves Creating unique treatments for guests will ensure that your spa stands out in the market. Lena Manamela, Manager, Kievits Kroon Spa; Tanya Lopes, Manager, Saxon Spa; and Maria Viljoen, Founder, Enviro Sanctuary Spa

15h15 Tea Break

11h10 Tea Break

15h30 The Role of Metaverse in Social Media Marketing and Other Strategies to Attract Interest in Your Spa How well do you understand Metaverse and what it can do for you? Aadil Dildar-Mia, Digital Marketing Director, Beyond the Click; Keshantha Naidoo, MD, Channel Reach

11h30 Bump Up that Bottom Line Identifying strategic opportunities and growth for new and existing guests, products and services. Alison Yammin, COO, Marine Spa Distributors; Terence Jansen Van Vuuren, Fouder, Terenzo Suites; Kym Stafford, Dolce Vita Beauty Centre; and Tshegofatso Moseme, Owner, Houghton Hotel Spa

16h30 CLOSE DAY ONE

13h00 CONVENTION CLOSES – Lunch and Expo Floor Visit

DAY TWO - Monday, 29 August 9h00 Registration 9h30 Made to Measure This session will look at the growing

*The organisers reserve the right to alter the speakers and the programme due to unforeseen circumstances. www.probeauty.co.za/wsw

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CONFERENCE NEWS

Aesthetic Medicine Convention DAY ONE - Sunday, 28 August 10h00 – 10h15 Registration and Welcome 10h15 – 11h00 Nothing to hide – Dr Bart Kurek Elevate your practice while increasing patient/client trust through reliable before and after pictures in any setting, on a budget. 11h00 – 11h15 Tea 11h15 – 11h45 Biostimulators, what they are, and the role they play in aesthetic treatments – Dr Mark Opperman A collagen biostimulator is a minimally invasive injectable treatment that gradually renews aged skin by firming the skin and reducing deep folds and wrinkles. 11h45 – 12h30 Versatility of Radiofrequency in different coloured skin – Dr Bhana Radiofrequency microneedling uses tiny needles and radiofrequency waves to rejuvenate facial skin. 12h30 – 14h00 Lunch and Exhibition 14h00 – 15h00 Mid-facial rejuvenation with threads – Dr Johan Botha Thread lift is a cosmetic procedure that offers a minimally invasive alternative to facelift surgery.

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15h00 – 15h30 Tea Break 15h30 – 16h30 Ethics Lecture – Dr Jacobus Van Niekerk Guidelines on over-servicing, perverse incentives and related matters, aesthetic medicine and social media

DAY TWO – Monday, 29 August 10h00 – 10h30 Melanogenesis, what active ingredients to consider and why? – Beverly Karam Melanin production in the skin and a detailed look at active ingredients that safely assist in controlling and reducing the activity in the epidermis. 10h30 – 11h00 Why combining aesthetic treatments will elevate your results – Dr Hema Singh Personalisation of aesthetic treatment often involves combining different treatment modalities. 11h00 – 11h30 Treating benign skin growths using a plasma device in higher skin phototypes (ethnic patients) – Dr Biola What are the considerations when using this technology on higher phototypes to avoid PIH and other complications? 11h30 – 11h45 Tea

28 & 29 August, Gallagher Convention Centre

11h45 – 12h30 The effective use of CBD as an active ingredient in medical aesthetics – Dr Judey Pretorius The perks, pitfalls and medical uses of CBD in aesthetic practice. 12h30 – 13h15 Epigenetics – The future is here – Lize van Zyle The study of epigenetics has revealed exciting information about how we can hack our body’s genetic predispositions to counteract the way our skin is programmed to age. 13h15 – 14h00 Lunch and Exhibition 14h00 – 14h45 Practice Management – Roxanne Byrne Through Business Process Management services, we create a smarter, more controlled business flow. 14h45 – 15h15 Social media and the role it can play in the continued growth of your practice – Lourette du Toit The use of social media platforms for the growth of businesses has become commonplace but there is an art to doing it effectively.

*The organisers reserve the right to alter the speakers and the programme due to unforeseen circumstances. www.probeauty.co.za/aesthetics

ACNE

Top tips

for treating clients with acne Considering that more than 85% of our clients presently have, or have had acne at some point in their lives, finding effective ways to target and treat acne is absolutely vital, writes salon owner Gina Gall

Ingredients

Choosing the right combination of ingredients is vital for the treatment of acne. Standout ingredients such as azelaic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, tea tree and niacinamide are all powerful anti-bacterials and antiinflammatories that we include in our in-salon and at-home treatments. Salicylic acid is a firm favourite as it unplugs blocked follicles and allows for better extraction. Glycolic acid works beautifully to prepare the skin for treatments, while lactic acid, an alpha-hydroxy acid, helps to remove the buildup of debris on the surface of the skin, leaving it smoother and brighter. Tea tree is a powerhouse ingredient for minimising blackheads and whiteheads because it kills bacteria on the surface of the skin, while also reducing inflammation. Niacinimade, an antioxidant that helps with cell repair, is great when micro-needling because it works so well at reducing inflammation.

Quality of ingredients

Always choose products that are pharmaceutical grade, contain active ingredients and work at a cellular level through transdermal delivery into the skin. We ensure that the products and brands we use are scientifically proven to minimise acne and scarring, unclog pores and prevent future breakouts. Because we use products and ingredients that penetrate right down to the dermis, they are released slowly and stored for up to 8 hours, during which time vital nutrients are taken up by the cells so that all the amazing ingredients make changes to the cells of the skin.

Educate your clients

It’s important for clients to know and understand what causes acne so that they can actively participate in the treatment and healing of their skin. We see clients every few weeks but they will be ‘working’ with their skin 24/7. Understanding how pimples and blackheads form helps to motivate them to use good at-home skin hygiene, while also keeping them consistently using products because results can often take time. Simple at-home routines with superstar products and ingredients are key to long-term results. A good quality salicylic cleanser, an anti-acne serum, and a sebum controlling moisturiser all go a long way in minimising acne, while not irritating inflamed skin.

Holistic approach

As we said earlier, acne is not just about skin – it indicates imbalances that go deeper than skin. We make sure that clients are on a good quality probiotic and often advise that they take supplements containing zinc and niacinamide to support their immune systems and reduce inflammation. Also, being an emotionally supportive therapist contributes to treating acne-related stress and anxiety and providing some hope. Photo by Anna Nekrashevich

or our clients, the impact of suffering from acne is more than just skin deep, it affects their self-esteem and self-confidence and, for this reason, we work holistically with them to find in-salon and at-home treatment plans that truly work.

Gina Gall is the visionary and entrepreneur behind the award-winning Professional Skin Care Lab. With an international qualification in Somatology and post-graduate training in the US, Gall has over two decades of experience in the industry.

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SKINCARE

Photo by Kjerstin Michaela from Pixabay

Spot on – treating acne A recent study by BusinessWire estimates that by 2028, there will be 658.6 million prevalent cases of acne worldwide. In this special feature, we focus on some leading acne treatments in the market

The synergistic action between pyruvic-, azelaic-, salicylic-, and mandelic-acids offers antiinflammatory benefits, along with a strong keratolytic, desmolytic and comedolytic action to help normalise problematic skin and improve the overall complexion.

Esse pHformula

Always at the forefront of innovative result orientated formulations, the R&D team of pHformula has done intensive research over the last year to improve the treatment results for acne vulgaris. This has resulted in the upgrade of pHformula’s A.C. 1, 2 and 3 solutions with pyruvic acid, which has been scientifically proven to have remarkable effectiveness in the treatment of acne.

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According to organic bio-clinical skincare brand, Esse, more than 80% of teens and around 4% of adults get acne. Says Esse founder Trevor Steyn: “Studies have shown that acne is either absent or rare in people that live traditional rural lifestyles. Inflammation is the underlying cause of acne and problem skin. The skin microbiome consists of billions of microbes that provide protection from bad bacteria, while working with the immune system to maintain healthy skin function, and

a disruption of this microbial balance can lead to skin concerns such as acne.” The brand recently launched its Clarifying collection to treat acne but from a probiotic perspective – where feeding and seeding with probiotic species protects the skin from pathogens and treats chronic inflammation. Steyn continues: “Inflammatory skin diseases, like acne, are almost non-existent in hunter-gatherer communities but these conditions have become commonplace across the modern world. Oversterilised homes, poor diet and chronic stress have contributed to skin that is hyper-reactive and prone to acne.” Esse uses microbiome science to formulate high-tech, all-natural products that treat the cause of acne, not just the symptoms. The Clarifying Oil is an easily absorbed facial oil which contains a synergy of live probiotics to shift the microbiome and act as a sebum support to reduce the skin’s oil production. Pro-vitamin D helps to boost an essential component of healthy skin, while bakuchiol controls bacterial overgrowth and maintains sebum integrity. Live lactobacillus improves the skin’s inflammatory response. The Clarifying Serum is formulated with 2% salicylic acid to help keep pores clear, and niacinamide to regulate oil production. Probiotic extracts and prebiotic nutrients boost the skin’s barrier function. Bakuchiol is regarded by Esse as a hero ingredient, as it visibly improves acne without the harmful side effects. This ingredient downregulates many pro-inflammatory genes in skin cells to reduce inflammation.

SKINCARE RégimA

A soothing serum that helps alleviate the difficulties associated with a problematic skin, the RégimA ‘Acne Attack’ Rescue Serum is formulated with an abundance of plants, including meadowsweet, that help to control oil production, visibly reducing pore size and minimising the appearance of blackheads and spots for a more refined appearance. The serum attacks acne prone skin and dries quickly, leaving a smoother matte finish. Meadowsweet extract contains the 5-AlphaReductase Inhibitor, which helps to normalise the hormones within the skin, without affecting the hormones within the body. It is a potent inhibitor of 5α-reductase and combats bacterial proliferation. The serum reduces blackheads, whiteheads and pore size. This anti-inflammatory antioxidant reduces redness in inflamed, damaged skins. Other active ingredients are passion flower (passiflora incarnata flower extract) to treat redness and sarcosine (cinnamomum zeylanicum bark extract) to reduce comedones and provide seboregulatory action. Rosehip fruit oil (rosa canina) has an activity similar to vitamin A on the skin and also has an anti-glycation function. Black currant seed oil (ribes nigrum) reduces blackheads, pimples and acne, while extract from caper buds offers a significant anti-inflammatory activity and reduces redness, rosacea and swelling.

Derca

Derca is a multi-award winning skincare brand with Nano & Lipo Technology to improve and maintain skin health. It uses only the bestchosen ingredients at the highest and purest form to treat acne, pigmentation, scarring and antiageing within just weeks. There are 18 products in the skin and body care range, from face cleansers to eye treatments, skin peels, serums and specialised treatments with airless pump systems and natural

preservatives to keep products fresh for 24 months. Derca allows affordable skincare with active ingredients. The Anti-oil collection has 4 acne products with advanced ingredients like salicylic acid, glycolic acid, reguseb, vitamin A and C to reduce oil production, increase hydration and limit breakouts on a daily basis. These products increase the healing ability and promote healthy skin, while improving acne scarring and pigmentation.

Photo by Ortega Ulloa from Pixabay

Saloncare

Saloncare has been treating acne prone and acne active skins successfully for 27 years. The Saloncare Skin Clarifier is a light emulsion containing tea tree for anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory purposes and vitamin A to regulate sebum secretion. Hydra-Aloe is a gel based formulation containing aloe ferox for soothing, while vitamin C has anti-oxidant properties. This non-greasy, mattifying product is ideal for oily skin, or skin that presents with acne. It can be applied under foundation and is also beneficial for sportsmen. Both products can be applied morning and evening as a moisturiser to reduce breakouts whilst hydrating the skin.

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SKINCARE Beauté Pacifique

From Danish medical skincare company Beauté Pacifique, the Vitamin A Anti-Wrinkle Booster includes two different forms of vitamin A, each having its own means of rejuvenating the skin’s collagen and elastin fibre structure. The synthesis of collagen and elastin fibres are boosted to reinforce the skin’s elastic properties and this also makes the skin less transparent. It repairs the damage caused by the sun and clearly reduces wrinkles and stretch marks. The cream is also effective for the treatment of acne by reducing the skin’s sebum secretion. It contains propolis for the treatment and prevention of impure skin, including active pimples (safe for teenage skin). Propolis Cera Water Extract (PWE) is nature’s own defence against microbial infections found in bee hives, where it protects the bees from diseases and fungal infections. Impurities caused by hormonal imbalances within the skin can be treated effectively. The mode of action is based on inhibiting the synthesis of testosterone induced imbalances, which is the hormone that regulates the secretion of sebum. It is to be applied very sparingly onto cleansed skin every second night due to its medicalgrade composition, increasing the frequency of usage as individually needed.

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Matis

According to the experts at Matis, the most important rule when treating acne is to not dry it out and strip it of all its oil and water levels, as sebaceous glands are forced to produce more oil to compensate. Acne skin should be treated as sensitive because there is a lot of inflammation and redness present in the follicles producing papules, pustules, cysts and nodules. Products that absorb excess oil, enzymatically remove dead skin cells, assist with purifying the follicles and reducing harmful bacteria, as well as products that are alcohol free, are highly recommended to treat acne and have proven to be successful. Matis uses the following active ingredients in its Purete Range for oily, blemished and skin with imperfections. AHA (Alpha-Hydroxy-Acid) is used for soft peeling. It smooths the skins surface, ensures no dead skin cells are present to clog the pores, rebalances the skin’s pH, and stimulates collagen synthesis, cell renewal and skin microcirculation. It also visibly improves the skin’s appearance and clarifies the skin tone. African Tree Extract helps to reduce or slow down the flow of sebum, as well as minimise the pore size and refine the skin’s texture. Known for its absorbing properties, kaolin captures impurities, brings about a light exfoliation and is desensitising. Pomegranate contains an enzyme that digests proteins and releases trapped bacteria, to smooth and even out the skin. Salicylic acid is an oil soluble acid that penetrates into the follicle to digest excess oil, providing a purifying action.

Guinot

Équilibre Pureté Treatment from Guinot is a purifying antiimperfection treatment. Its exclusive treatment method is to restore balance and purify the skin so that imperfections are attenuated. The skin is shine-free and even-toned. This 4-step treatment comprises a heating exfoliator to open up skin pores to help eliminate sebum and extract blackheads, as well as eliminate dead cells. Next comes the Purifying Mask, which purifies the skin deep down by absorbing excess sebum and eliminating impurities from the skin. It mattifies the skin’s surface without causing dryness. Blackhead extraction follows the mask, with the application of the Acnilogic cream serum completing the treatment. Due to the acnicidine complex, Acnilogic serum restores balance to sebum production to fight against unsightly shine and the appearance of new blemishes. It tightens pores and mattifies the skin. The Acnilogic cream serum regulates and restores the balance to the skin and shine is eliminated. Acnilogic Gel purifies the skin, leaving it perfectly clear, thanks to the AcniClear Complex. Imperfections are visibly diminished, and pores tightened.

SKINCARE

Environ Photo by ShotPot from Pexels

Osonö

The Osonö Niacinamide Serum is a bio-active water-based gel serum with niacinamide to reduce inflammation, which may help ease redness from acne and other inflammatory skin conditions. It works to protect the skin from environmental damage, improves hydration and prompts the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid. It minimises pore appearance and regulates sebum production. Additionaly, the serum strengthens the skin barrier, lessens skin discolouration and keeps skin radiant, while controlling redness. Suitable for dry, normal and sensitive skin types, particularly acne prone skin and other inflammatory skin conditions, the serum strengthens the lipid barrier to prevent trans-epidermal water loss and increases skin immunity. Its antiinflammatory properties reduce redness, minimise pore appearance, regulate the production of sebum (oil) and minimise fine lines and wrinkles. The serum protects against oxidative stress by helping to build cells in the skin, while also protecting them from environmental stresses, such as UV exposure, pollution, and toxins. It is very effective in treating acne, especially inflammatory forms that are red and covered with pustules.

Environ’s approach to combatting breakout-prone skin is to simultaneously normalise the vitamin A deficiency and target problematic skin with the Clarity+ Range. The range inovlves a simple 3-phase skincare routine – Clean (combat the appearance of congestion and excess oil); Control (target and counteract the progression of conspicuous spots); and Clear (reduce the appearance of confidence crushing breakouts). Each phase contains products that have been specifically formulated to

help Clean, Control and Clear the root causes of breakouts by giving the skin what it needs, where it needs it most. Products include: Sebu-Wash Gel Cleanser; Sebu-Tone Clarifier; SebuLac Lotion; Sebu-Ace Oil; Sebu-Spot Blemish Gel; and Sebu-Clear Masque. For optimal results, combine the Focus Care™ Clarity+ Range with a course of professional Environ Cool Peel® Treatments. It is this dynamic and powerful combination that will result in a clearer and healthierlooking complexion, in a shorter timeframe.

DermaFix

DermaFix has formulated an excellent new product to aid in the war against acne. The DermaFix MD Mandelic Retexturising Wipes are the latest addition to the DermaFix MD range, offering a safe and convenient application of powerful actives including mandelic acid, niacinamide, rumex extract and evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract. Mandelic acid, found in almonds, is a larger molecule than both glycolic and lactic acid, limiting penetration and reducing irritancy. Naturally exhibiting anti-bacterial and melanin inhibition properties, this is an excellent choice for higher Fitzpatrick skin types as there is less risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Niacinamide is already well known for its acne benefits so is therefore an essential component of this formulation. This product helps to balance moisture levels in the skin,

and provides skin barrier protection benefits, anti-acne, anti-ageing and skin radiance properties. Rumex extract and evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract are designed to work in synergy to increase micro-circulation, giving glow and luminosity to the skin and simultaneously reducing skin sensitivity and redness. As an add-on to an existing DermaFix skincare ritual, DermaFix MD Mandelic Retexturising Wipes are to be used on alternate nights and can be increased to every night once skin tolerance is achieved.

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HAIR REMOVAL / PRODUCT

Waxing Lyrical

7. A common mistake therapists make is to use strip wax on sensitive areas like the face, underarm and bikini areas. Strip wax should only be used on larger areas like legs, chest and back – assuring that it would be safe, whereas film and hot wax should be used on sensitive areas. 8. Another common mistake is to apply hot wax and film wax too thickly and to wait too long before removal. Commonsense and experience will prevent wax from becoming brittle and breaking.

Waxing expert Adri Maritz pinpoints the most common mistakes a therapist can make during a treatment

axing should be a delightful experience for the client but the following errors in treatment might prevent this. Image from Pixabay

1. Not preparing the area to be waxed with an appropriate pre cleanser that would protect and moisturise the skin is simply wrong. But don’t use too much product, as wax will never adhere to wet/ damp skin!

9. To hold a wax spatula the wrong way is a big mistake. Having a firm grip close to the tip of the spatula, like holding a pen when writing, will assure a perfect application.

2. Using baby powder or talc before waxing, or no pre cleanser at all, is a no-no as dry skin can easily be lifted. Therefore, use a pre cleanser.

10. Apply an appropriate post lotion after waxing. A common mistake made is to send the client home to have a bath or shower to remove residue – there should be none left anyway!

3. Another common mistake is to not follow this important rule: support where you start to apply the wax and where you start to remove it. Not following this rule leads to bruising.

11. Another common mistake a therapist makes is to not consult with her client on what medication she is on and what products she is allergic to before waxing. This normally leads to big problems. After care advice on do’s and don’ts post wax treatment is also often neglected.

4. When testing strip wax in a cartridge, always test it on a strip and never on a client. A common mistake is to start rolling it on a client and pulling hair and skin when there is a temperature problem. 5. Always establish the direction of the hair growth before you dip your spatula in the wax. Plan your application before you dip. 6. A firm grip grows confidence in a wax therapist. A common mistake is to be scared to touch or hurt your client. Be firm, thorough and systematic when applying and removing the wax.

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12. Sadly, some therapists mistakenly think that clients will be okay with unhygienic equipment and wax stations, unprofessional conduct, inferior products and taking too long to finish treatments. This is most definitely not the case! Waxing should be fun and should add value to your salon.

Adri Maritz has been in the beauty industry since 1998 as area manager and trainer for Smart Buy/ Depilève and since August 2021, as sales leader and wax trainer for Redinger Laboratories.

WAXING Screaming Beauty

The

hairless aesthetic

Launched in 2016 by Twincare International, Screaming Beauty is a proudly South African beauty brand designed by professionals for professionals. The brand’s playful products push the boundaries of beauty in South Africa. Its ever-expanding beauty range consists of Wax & Preparation Products, as well as Manicure & Pedicure and Body Range. Formulations are based on what therapists want and need, while maintaining a competitive price range. The locally manufactured wax features a luxurious texture for the ultimate comfort while waxing. Screaming Beauty’s rosin-free waxes contain no pine rosin (colophony, tree sap, gum rosin), which makes for a more gentle waxing experience, reducing redness, pain and skin irritation during and after waxing. Hot Wax is made with a high-quality mineral resin providing the flexibility to allow it to grip around the contours of the area being treated. The mineral resin is blended with titanium dioxide and mica, which prevents excessive pulling of the skin, minimises sensitivity, and removes the hair with the root. It is more suitable for humid weather conditions as it doesn’t harden as quickly. Screaming Beauty’s Strip Waxes are ideal for large areas that need to be waxed. Strip wax sticks to the skin, making it ideal for sneaky fine hairs. It is made from a mineral resin that provides the wax with superior adhesion properties without leaving residue on the skin. The Film Wax is especially suited to facial and Brazilian waxes. Its extremely low melting temperature contributes to a much more comfortable treatment. Being heat reactive, the wax turns see-through when it reaches the desired temperature and then turns opaque when it is ready to be removed from the skin. Film Wax is suitable for dry weather conditions as it has a rubbery texture.

With its high margins and low overhead expenses, waxing is one of the more profitable salon services. Here we look at some leading products on the market

Photo by Kate Hliznitsova on Unsplash

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Cirépil

Available from SA Beauty Distributors, Cirépil by Perron Rigot has a range of professional waxes that are diverse, easy to work with and economical. The range includes soft wax, hard wax, both scented and unscented, hydrating and natural waxes, as well as speciality hypoallergenic waxes for sensitive skin. The brand’s gentle pre and post waxing products support its conviction to make a wax treatment into a beauty treatment by preparing, protecting and soothing the skin. Cirépil’s easy 3-step system allows the brand’s exceptional polymers the ability to attach to the hair (and not the skin), leaving long lasting results that are less painful with less redness. Says the SA Beauty Distributors team: “Working with Cirépil means satisfied and loyal clients. With Cirepil, it’s not about what we remove but about we leave behind.”

Depilève

Available from Lime Light Hair & Beauty Products, Depilève celebrates its 50-year anniversary this year. Depilève uses bio-based resins from renewable sources and manufactures by process of pasteurisation to guarantee the absolute quality of its waxes. Says the Lime Light team: “Here are 3 fun facts that you may not know about the Depilève brand. Firstly, if you draw a line north to south from Norway to South Africa, you will find these 3 brands in every country – McDonald’s, Coca-Cola and Depilève. “The products are made with the finest ingredients never tested on animals. They meet the highest quality standards, from ISO to GMP. Lastly, Depilève is a predominantly female company; over two thirds of employees and management are female.”

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WAXING Alexandria Redinger

Founded in 2012 by Ruth Shaw, Redinger Laboratories is a unique rosin free wax that is kind to all skin types and suitable for male and female clients. When waxed with Redinger, the client can say goodbye to ingrown hair. This new generation pine-rosin free, ultra-flexible wax leaves no redness or reaction. The hot wax should be applied thinly, like the film wax, thus saving the salon owner product and costs. Both the hot wax and film wax are packaged in a convenient 1kg bag. Perfect for all skin types, Redinger’s strip wax has a residue free wax formula and is available in an 800g tin and 100g cartridges. Ingredients for these fragrancefree waxes include synthetic resin, synthetic bees wax, microcrystalline wax, sunflower seed oil and titanium dioide. Pre Spray with chamomile and Post Lotion with shea butter are available in 300ml bottles at a very reasonable price. The Ingrown solution is available in a 125ml bottle and contains salicylic acid to exfoliate and cure ingrown hair as well as shaver’s rash. This should be applied before the post lotion.

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Anesi Blue Wax

Premium skincare brand Anesi has just launched a new waxing range. The Anesi Blue Traditional Hot Wax is an extremely gentle and disposable, traditional hot wax bead formula, ideal for sensitive, smaller areas. It is perfect for waxing brows, facial areas and the more delicate skin, so you can upgrade your waxing treatments and service menu. This wax is gentle on both the skin and environment. Anesi Cera Blue Film Wax Beads offer a less painful hair removal treatment for the effective epilation of very fine, short hair. Its ability to apply thin layers makes it economical and versatile for a variety of applications, from facial to full body waxing. The range also includes the Anesi Blue Strip Wax Formula, an ultra-rich, creamy, strip wax for less sensitive areas. Because of its excellent plasticity, this wax is easy to apply and adheres effortlessly to the hair, with no sticking to, or pulling of the skin, for quick, easy and gentle removal. Ideal for waxing larger areas such as the legs and arms, it is available for use in a cartridge or tin option. For pre and post wax skincare, the Anesi Lab Pre & Post Wax Care is formulated with high performance cosmeceutical actives. These products enhance your waxing treatments and care for the skin before, during and after waxing. They include Lavender Pre Wax Lotion, Jasmine Post Wax Oil, and Soothing Post Wax Cream.

Available from Brisan Distributors & Brisan Training Academy, the Alexandria Professional Body Sugaring system has spent 30 years committed to perfecting the consistency of its sugar pastes. Sugaring is a unique technique in that the sugar paste is moulded against the direction of hair growth and removed in the same direction of hair growth. No spatulas or strips are used as the paste is moulded onto the skin by a gloved hand. According to Alexandria, there is a huge difference between sugaring and waxing, the only similarity being hair removal. The process for each is completely different. Sugaring is 100% natural and the Alexandria products are made with sustainably sourced ingredients. They are eco-friendly and biodegradable. As they are 100% water soluble, there is no risk of stains. Sugaring eliminates ingrown hair. No bacteria can grow in sugar paste. It is hypoallergenic and non-comedogenic and there is no risk of cross-contamination or double dipping. Sugar paste is always at room and body temperature and only requires 1.5mm of hair growth. Brisan Training Academy offers a fully comprehensive 2-day training course for therapists wanting to learn the sugaring technique.

HAIR NEWS

Janelle Monae (Instagram @janellemonae)

Best hair at the BET Awards The overriding hair trends spotted on the red carpet at the recent BET (Black Entertainment Television) Awards held at the Microsoft Theater in Los Angeles were high pony tails, updos and sleek tresses. These annual awards cover the entertainment and sports industries in the African-American community in the USA. A particularly unusual updo was seen on singer and actress Janelle Monae, who had a messy blonde bun piled onto the top of her head, with a darker extension weaved throughout. The evening’s host, actress Taraji P Henson, sported a number of different styles on the night but for her red carpet look, she opted for a sleek, pulled back hairdo with a deep side parting. Actress Brandee Evans’ shoulder-length afro had a structured bun at the centre of her head. Halle Bailey rocked two-tone, long locks, while her sister, Chloë Bailey, looked ultra-glam with a super-high ponytail that cascaded like a fountain down her back. The sisters are known for having starred in the popular TV series, ‘Grown-ish’, and as an R&B duo before becoming solo performers. ‘Black-ish’ actress, Marsai Martin, opted for mega-sleek hip-length hair, while singer Eva Marcille’s three-toned locks were twisted into a high top knot. Rapper and body positivity icon, Lizzo, had her long, soft curls styled into finger waves around the head for a retro look. Singer, actor and writer, Billy Porter, is known for slaying the red carpet with his distinctive style and the BET Awards was no exception. His bizarre, shoulder-heavy grey outfit was topped with a hairdo that involved knotted braids pulled back into a high ponytail. Victoria Monét rocked long, chestnut brown S-waves that emanated from a high ponytail with black roots. The singersongwriter-record producer had gelled edges on each side of the hairline. (Report by Joanna Sterkowicz)

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Victoria Monét (Instagram @victoriamonet) Eva Marcille (Instagram @evamarcille)

Billy Porter (Instagram @theebillyporter) Taraji P Henson (Instagram @tarajiphenson)

Chloë Bailey (Instagram @chloebailey) Lizzo (Instagram @lizzobeeating)

AESTHETIC MEDICINE

The future is here

Karen Ellithorne delves into the world of Artificial Intelligence and how it is increasingly being used in beauty and aesthetics

Photo by Tara Winstead from Pexels

ike all industries, the beauty and aesthetic sector is not unaffected by the rapid increase in technology. Due to the Covid-19 pandemic and the resulting hard lockdowns, many cosmetic and aesthetic brands and businesses had to become innovative in the way that they sold products in order to keep their turnover flowing. Many innovations were developed over this period to assist companies to sell their brands and engage with their customers in real time. Skincare brands and aesthetic companies that were able to integrate this type of technology solution into their business have proved to have a competitive edge over their competition. This is mainly due to consumers demanding better online and mobile services over the Covid period and beyond, thus dramatically influencing the way beauty companies and businesses have evolved technologically. Aesthetic clinics have currently also embraced these technologies in order to give patients more in-depth assessments and to assist with managing patient expectations prior to treatment.

AESTHETIC CLINICS have currently also EMBRACED THESE TECHNOLOGIES in order to GIVE PATIENTS MORE in-depth ASSESSMENTS and to assist with MANAGING PATIENT EXPECTATIONS prior to treatment. What exactly is AI?

Artificial Intelligence (AI) broadly refers to any human-like behaviour displayed by a machine or system. In AI’s most basic form, computers are programmed to ‘mimic’ human behaviour using extensive data from past examples of similar behaviour. AI has many useful applications in the skincare and aesthetic industry, from simply using the algorithms of your customers’ data and behaviour analysis to determine your company’s best marketing strategy for certain segments and demographics of the market, to doing full blown skin analysis, or selecting a client’s shade of make-up based on their skin tone. Finding the right shade of treatment foundation has been a dilemma that has plagued woman for decades. With AI, this will no longer be a concern. Technology is currently so advanced that a face can now be scanned with a meter that measures the skin’s natural melanin levels to determine the exact skin tone. This

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AESTHETIC MEDICINE Diagnosis result is then analysed by an algorithm that goes through more than 20,000 shades and then picks the correct one for the client. The shade then goes to a mixing machine and the customer receives the exact colour foundation for their skin tone. This is personalisation at a new level, but may currently come with an extremely hefty price tag.

3D Imaging

Due to the nature of aesthetic treatments and the importance of managing patients’ expectations, AI is a great tool to assist doctors in planning and showcasing potential results to patients. 3D imaging is useful in consultations where the ‘before’ images are taken. These images are then fed into a computer and 3D-computer generated ‘after’ images are provided of the patient’s face or body. This is extremely valuable in assisting doctors and patients to be able to visualise the final result before committing to a treatment. With this technology, the doctor is able to manipulate the patient’s appearance with the assistance of the patient and clearly communicate with their patients how different treatments can deliver the results desired. The doctor and patient can then make an educated decision together of how they would like to proceed. Another benefit is that the doctor can compare the ‘before’ and the rendered ‘after’ images side-by-side so that he can observe the movement and observe changes, like the degree of stretch, compression, lift and volume, all of which are important considerations prior to an injectable aesthetic treatment.

Smart devices are bringing significant advances to skincare, with AI algorithms playing a prominent role. The type of technology most prominently featured can take the form of simple hand held scanners, smart phone apps, and even smart mirrors. These devices are able to analyse your skin and determine the condition and health thereof in real time. Their diagnostic systems are accurate to the point where they can even advise specific solutions for the client’s skin condition. Depth of wrinkles, loss of firmness, hydration, sensitivity and oiliness are some conditions that can be diagnosed and addressed by these types of in-clinic devices. It is, however, important to note that these devices can only analyse the surface of the skin and will overlook underlying issues of health that could be causing these conditions to occur. As such, they cannot as yet replace a one-on-one diagnosis with a doctor or aesthetician. But they can be highly effective in marketing and positively affect sales revenue. Dermatologists also use AI for the early detection and diagnosis of skin conditions, (e.g. skin cancer), by working with body scanners that present the doctor with precise 3D images of the patient’s skin surface. Automatic lesion segmentation and analysis are also used to assist doctors with identifying suspicious lesions, including skin cancers. Additionally, other skin conditions, such as psoriasis and vitiligo, can also be assessed with this type of technology.

In need of an ‘assistant’

AI robots like ALEXA are currently used in many up-market aesthetic clinics to perform the most basic tasks, such as turning up the air conditioning and lighting, and controlling the mood of the room with the correct playlist. AI technology can also be of assistance in speeding up admin requirements for a busy aesthetic practitioner, with voice-to-text technology to assist with the writing of patients’ files and required prescriptions. However, even though robots will be able to assist with the functioning of a practice, they will never be able to replace the human empathy and contact that plays such an important role in the patient journey in an aesthetic practice. As AI continually improves our lives across the globe, it is predicted that the aesthetic industry is one of the industries that will benefit significantly. It is therefore important that medical practitioners and staff are continually upskilled and kept abreast of the latest developments in these technological advances.

Image from Pixabay

THESE DEVICES can only ANALYSE THE SURFACE OF THE SKIN and WILL OVERLOOK UNDERLYING ISSUES of health that could be CAUSING THESE CONDITIONS to occur.

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A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. Email karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

HAIR REMOVAL / DEVICES

The 5 most common mistakes made by laser hair removal therapists Given the complexities of performing laser hair removal, especially taking patient safety and comfort into account, it’s important to look out for potential trouble areas

1. Not knowing how to dose fluence during a ‘pain-free’ treatment with the gliding technique

This is the most common reason why a laser hair removal treatment will result in no results or disappointing results. In everyday language, this means under-treatment. For laser hair removal to work, you need to treat the whole area with sufficient energy to kill the dermal papilla. It is therefore important that you calculate the correct fluence. The term fluence refers to the Joules that you give to the skin per square centimeter: J/cm2. Most treatments done daily range between severely under-treated to under-treated. This translates to no results, or at best some temporary shedding.

2. Not knowing how to use pulse duration to increase results

Most types of laser treatments require a very short pulse duration to destroy the target, without causing harm to the surrounding tissue. Makes sense, doesn’t it? However this is NOT the case with laser hair removal. Laser hair removal uses the hair as an element to heat

Photo by Anna Shvets from Pexels

and destroy the surrounding tissue. It is not the hair that needs to be destroyed, it’s the dermal papilla. For a good result, you need to allow enough time to heat up the hair. Once you have the desired heat created in the hair root, you need to give it time to spread to the surrounding tissue. The surrounding tissue needs to heat up to a minimum temperature for a minimum duration to cause enough destruction to the dermal papilla to prevent future hair growth. This all takes time.

ONCE YOU HAVE the DESIRED HEAT created in the HAIR ROOT, you need to GIVE IT TIME TO SPREAD to the surrounding tissue. 3. Believing that gel is essential for a laser hair removal treatment Some energy based treatments, like HIFU, absolutely require conductance gel (usually called cooling gel) for the treatment. This is not the case with laser hair removal. Anything on the skin that the light has to travel through has an effect on the light, and often not for the better. These gels are water based and water refracts, reflects and absorbs some light. There are various reasons why using gel is sensible, but to improve results is not one of

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HAIR REMOVAL / DEVICES

them. When you use gel during a treatment, you have to make sure the benefits the gel brings to the treatment outweighs the disadvantage caused by the gel.

Another big MISCONCEPTION IS THE IDEA that the MACHINE OFFERS sufficient SKIN COOLING and that ADDITIONAL COOLING will have a NEGATIVE EFFECT on your treatment. 4. Not knowing how to convert from the gliding method to the stepping method

Just as you need to know how to apply the correct amount of energy as mentioned in Point 1, you also need to know how to calculate the energy settings when you switch between the gliding method and the stepping method. The gliding method is of limited usefulness in a course of laser hair removal treatments, and using the method excessively will cause a plateau in the results your client will have.

5. Not knowing how to use cooling for increased results and client comfort

Another big misconception is the idea that the machine offers sufficient skin cooling and that additional cooling will have a negative effect on your treatment. Diode lasers offer skin cooling as a default feature. But, the main reason for cooling in most handpieces of a diode laser is to keep the diodes from overheating. Very few machines actually offer dedicated and sufficient skin cooling. Since most laser hair removal therapists have had no scientific training, very few realise the reason why pain-free treatments deliver result-free unhappy clients. It is the task of the therapist to create a comfortable, well tolerated treatment for the client that also delivers results.

Raymond Schoeman is the founder and Head Course Coordinator of LaserCollege, a leading authority in aesthetic laser training. Schoeman started his career in the industry when he opened his first laser clinic in Pretoria in 2000. He is the author of two books: Textbook for Aesthetic Laser Therapy and Aesthetic Laser Treatments – Insider Secrets.

HAIR REMOVAL / DEVICES

Smooth

operator For those clients seeking semi-permanent hair removal, machine-based technologies offer a suitable option for clinics and salons prepared to make a investment in the pursuit of ROI

Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

Motus AY

The Motus AY is a dual-wavelength system and the world’s first FDA approved Alexandrite and Nd:YAG Laser able to treat all skin types safely and effectively. Distributed exclusively in Southern Africa by Hitech Lasers, Motus AY with 755nm Alexandrite laser plus the innovative Moveo technology is the only one of its kind on the market. Practitioners can treat all skin types (Fitzpatrick I-VI), including tanned skin, making it a truly ground-breaking advancement in aesthetic technology. Hair removal has become easier, safe, pain-free and with long-lasting results due to Moveo technology. In the past, Alexandrite lasers were considered as unsuitable for use on darker skin types, until DEKA developed Motus AY. DEKA’s patented Moveo technology not only revolutionised the aesthetic hair removal industry, it also solidified DEKA’s place as a leader in innovation. The Moveo handpiece was designed to drastically reduce the amount of energy reflected by the skin and the treatment result is higher effectiveness, speed, safety and simplicity. When Moveo technology is employed, less energy (up to 50%) is reflected between the skin and surrounding air during treatment, making it different to any other laser technology on the market. The result is double the energy transfer compared to standard laser machines, allowing the user to work in contact with the skin at lower fluence than usual. Moveo technology exploits heat accumulation in the germ structure of the hair due to repeated passages, improving and simplifying patient and operator experience. The treatment of fine and fair hair has always been a challenge with laser hair removal. Thanks to the Moveo handpiece, energy is delivered through a 20mm

he basic scientific premise of how IPL and diode laser devices deliver energy at the optimal wavelengths for long term hair reduction has largely standardised across manufacturers and the biggest differences are found in whether diode lasers offer multiple frequencies, or single 800-810nm applicators, while IPL often finds itself bundled in a multi-platform system where the actual IPL is not the differentiator but rather what other technologies are bundled on the platform. Manufacturers and suppliers also understand the value of training excellence, rapid technical support, and good customer relations overall.

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HAIR REMOVAL / DEVICES

integrated sapphire cooling tip, with ultra-short pulse durations (2ms), which is ideal for treating fine and fair hair. It is the Nd:YAG source at 1 064nm that completes the Motus AY as a dual-wavelength system. This technology penetrates deep inside the skin to be effective in vascular treatment, not only for the face but also for legs where vessels are more difficult to be reached.

Soprano Titanium

Best Lasers is Sub-Saharan Africa’s sole distributor of Alma Lasers International. Alma Lasers has been a global innovator in hair removal since 2002, when they launched their proprietary SHR/ In-Motion™ technology. The brand’s Soprano Titanium has won the Best New Treatment of the Year Award and is positioned as ‘hair removal, reinvented’. The device uses 3 different hair removal wavelengths simultaneously. This means that with one pulse, the laser is targeting the skin at 3 different depths as hair follicles sit at various depths within the skin. “This, together with the patented In-Motion™ technology and groundbreaking -4*C contact

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cooling, makes results far more superior than on any other competitors’ device,” says Best Lasers’ Nicola Steenkamp. “With confidence, we can say that you will need at least 2 treatments less on the Titanium, than on any other device. And, the new Titanium boasts unbeatable hair removal treatment times. Lasers usually take 35-45minutes on a full back treatment area; with the Soprano Titanium this is reduced to 5 minutes 20 seconds for a full male back. This means that your ROI will be achieved in a shorter period than expected as you are now receiving R1,700 every 15 minutes, compared to R1,700 every 35-45 minutes. “But, be aware of fake devices. We are constantly in contact with the Department of Health and Radiation regarding these ‘look alikes’ that you can buy all over the internet. The Department has appointed a whole team of specialists to confiscate such devices that have appeared in clinics/ salons across South Africa.” Alma has also launched a brand-new Smart Clinic application that now connects to any android or Apple device and allows you to know which treatment protocols are used the most, which practitioner is the most effective and what the most popular applicators are, just by linking to the online app. Operators can now address issues when they occur and easier maintain their systems. Managers can also follow up on operator’s performance, define unique goals/ incentives for each of them and stay in touch with patients. They can also draw full patient treatment histories, as well as continuously receive marketing updates related to the device.

HAIR REMOVAL / DEVICES Sinova

Sinova is a new wave of laser devices specifically aimed at improving your clinic bottom line. The popular combination of 1064nm, 808nm and 755nm frequencies and advanced cooling technology enables Sinova to match competitors on all the technical points ‘under the bonnet’ so to speak, and service providers to offer safe and effective treatments to a wide range of patients regardless of skin type. Two models are available: the tabletop i3 for compact workspaces while still providing power and efficacy, and the full-sized X3 for high-intensity workloads. At approximately 40% of the retail price of more well-known brands, but with all competitor features in hand, hair removal treatments can finally become a contributing factor to the success of your aesthetic business, and not merely a ‘must have’ service to draw clientele in order to up-sell to other services. Both the tabletop i3 and the full-sized X3 are available with one- or two-year warranty options, and through a third-party finance partner, Sinova can give your business the unique opportunity to invest in technology in a way that makes sense for your business. Sinova carries medical CE certification according to EU directive 42/93/EEC and is registered with SAHPRA for distribution in South Africa. It is also available to the rest of Africa.

Coolite Bolt

The GSD Coolite Bolt is a high power diode laser platform that is 100% safe for all skin types and offers quick, painfree treatments for hair removal. This system makes use of a Trio handpiece, which consists of 3 separate wavelengths (755nm, 810nm, 1064nm) to ensure the safety and efficacy of the treatment, as well as to target different depths of hair follicle. It has a larger spot size handle and adopts Ultra Short Pulse and High Peak Power, delivering short pulses to destroy hair follicles with lightning fast speed. Patented Dual Cooling Engine design enables durable working, protecting the skin surface from burn risk and making the treatment comfortable and virtually pain free. With FDA as well as Medical CE certification, the Bolt shows incredible results after only 1 treatment, while a course of treatments will be between 4-8 sessions depending on the area. The Bolt offers ‘fastmode’ which allows for treatment times to be cut in half compared to the outdated ‘pick up and place’ technology. It has 1800W output power and is in a league of its own when compared to devices in a similar price bracket.

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PRODUCT NEWS

All about the eyes

From Optiphi, the newly formulated Eye Signs Ultimate Eye includes 15 carefully selected actives with advanced cell penetrating potential, unique to the brand. With this revolutionary technology, deeper penetration of actives is encouraged to improve and prevent skin concerns in the periorbital area of the eyes. Eye Signs targets the multifaceted factors related to lines & wrinkles, discoloration & dark circles, and puffiness & eye bags. 012 667 6244

Amazing ampoules

Described as ‘Babor’s little miracle skin serums’, the brand’s new Ampoule Concentrates are available as 10 different 7-day ampoule skin treatments. These 2ml glass vials are fine-tuned with exceptional highly active ingredients down to the smallest milligram. Babor’s clean formulas ensure that the ampoules are free from silicones, parabens, PEGs, synthetic polymers and dyes, as well as lactose, gluten and mineral oil. 011 467 0110

In the market Our round-up of new products and treatments

Fabulous foam

The new RefectoCil Brow & Lash Foam effortlessly removes make-up residue, small dirt particles and excess grease. Its creamy and fluffy consistency makes it very easy to apply to brows and lashes for thorough cleansing. Suitable for all skin types, it contains aloe vera, which makes the skin soft and supple. The formulation is pleasantly mild and calming and refreshes the skin without drying it out. 082 5756 567 / 031 209 2548

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NAIL FILE ISSUE 54

AUGUST 2022

NEON PIGMENT Step by Step

IN YOUR FACE Dealing with staff conflicts

A ‘Spring’ In your step SEASONAL TRENDS

WELCOME

y now I’m sure you are all feeling well and truly fed up with winter and who can blame you? It’s been a grueling time, considering that winter actually started in April this year (instead of June), and taking into account how much of it was spent in the dark, courtesy of Eskom’s power supply challenges. However, while Spring is technically speaking not quite in the air yet, all the shops are full of Spring clothes and so, as nail techs, I’m sure you are on the lookout for the new season’s shades and styles. In this issue of NailFile, we include an article on this very topic. As a salon owner, if you are the employer of staff (as opposed to being a one-woman band), it’s important to know how to deal with staff conflicts, should they arise. As such, creating the right environment for all staff members, where they feel empowered in terms of communication with each other as well as their manager, is one way to avoid situations that might give rise to conflict. In this issue you will find a useful article full of important tips on how to achieve this.. Shutterstock

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

What’s INSIDE 52

Industry News Stay in the know

Ask the Experts

Dealing with staff conflicts

Step by Step

Neon pigment and ombre

Live life in full bloom with Spring nail trends Seasonal trends

Product Hub

All the latest releases

Top Tech Talk Cathrine Naude

@probeautyexpo

@PROBEAUTYSA

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA

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INDUSTRY NEWS

Harry Styles launches new nail collection

Lizzo (Instagram @erierinailz)

Serayah (Instagram @serayah)

Marsai Martin (Instagram @ marsaimartin)

Subdued nail shades dominate at BET Awards Held recently in Los Angeles, the annual BET (Black Entertainment Television) Awards were an epic celebration of Black culture, featuring the most popular artists from film, television, music, literature, sports and philanthropy. While the stars’ gowns and outfits certainly dazzled in terms of striking styles and sequins, the nail looks, were on the whole, in fairly pale shades, albeit long and predominantly stiletto or square. Rapper Lizzo rocked very sparkly stiletto tips in a gunmetal hue, designed by celebrity nail artist, Eri Ishizu. Fellow rapper (and actress), Chloë Baily, sported a gold chrome manicure in an almond shape and with subtle red accents. Also going for a metallic look, although in green, was singer, actor,

Cynthia Erivo (Instagram @ cynthiaerivo)

Taraji P Henson (Instagram @ customTNails1)

writer and red carpet icon, Billy Porter, who chose this colour to complement his outlandish grey outfit. ‘Black-ish’ actress and winner of the BET YoungStars Award, Marsai Martin, had powder pink talons with square tips. Singer Ari Lennox chose a classic French manicure for her long nails. Actress, model and singer, Serayah, wore pale pink nails. Also favouring light pink nails, Eva Marcille, an actress, model and TV personality, styled hers very long and square, with an intriguing chevron design on each. The evening’s host, Taraji P Henson chose very long stillettos in a subtle shade to go with her many wardrobe changes, while both legendary hip-hop soul artist and actress, Mary J Blige, and British star of stage and screen, Cynthia Erivo, had white claws. Blige was the recipient of the BET Her Award for ‘Good Morning Gorgeous’.

Former One Direction boybander and now solo artist, actor and beauty entrepreneur, Harry Styles, has launched the third microcollection of nail polish from his Pleasing brand. Styles is known for his gender-bending style of dressing, what with pearl necklaces, lace collars, skirts and colourful manicures. While his first ever nail collection was targeted at men, the Hot Holiday collection is unisex. According to the pleasing. com website, Hot Holiday comprises of four technicolour shades of biodegradable 12-free nail polish and moodboosting scents in the brand’s Everybody Oil and Pleasing Spritz. The colours are: Beach Ball (ocean blue); Nonna’s Sorbet (vibrant yellow); Harry’s Chair (seaweed green); and Wet Bottoms (a glossy top coat).

Image sourced from pleasing.com

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BUSINESS TIPS

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business Photo by Yan Krukov from Pexels

How do I resolve staff conflicts in the salon? or any company to succeed, it requires people and staff who are dedicated to the business, to you and to their clients. The most successful businesses are those whose employees lead by example and who provide a positive environment. Even when staff members are happy and things seem to be going well, conflict will be an issue you will have to face sooner or later. This is why it is necessary to make sure you have a conflict resolution tool in place and that you train staff how to implement it. However, before escalating a situation, it is always best to encourage staff to resolve issues and conflict amongst themselves. Let’s take a look at how you can enforce a positive working environment and lessen the chance of conflict. SOPs – it is vitally important for any business to make sure that there are certain policies and procedures in place with your own SOPs (Standard Operating Procedures) for adhering to a set Code of Conduct and Ethics. Basically SOPs are a set of Rules & Regulations which employees within an establishment are expected to adhere to. SOPs help to ensure and establish acceptable work ethics. They also ensure that clients are protected from improper practices. If there are no rules then things are bound to go haywire

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Open communication – this builds trust amongst one another. It can also be a constructive way of resolving conflicts, resulting in a happy working environment. I believe that it’s always in the best interest of an establishment to listen to what their staff are saying, and this goes for absolutely everyone, from management to front desk and even assisting staff. Your employees should feel absolutely comfortable opening up to you and their colleagues. This includes anything from sharing their ideas, to coming up with solutions for issues, to what they are disgruntled about. The first step is to build relationships with your staff, make decisions based on what they are saying, and, finally, make sure that whatever is discussed is executed. If this does not happen then there will be no trust or respect. Growth, recognition and rewards – there are also other ways of keeping your staff happy by offering them growth, incentives and rewards. People strive to want to do better for their future and career and if they feel that there is an opportunity to grow, they will be more dedicated. Also, remember to recognise staff for good work and reward them for their efforts. It is important to make sure this is done in front of other staff, to encourage and motivate them to do the same.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for over 30 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.

STEP BY STEP

Neon Pigment Art and Ombre This striking nail art design was created by Ronay Delport

Neon pigment art made its appearance on social media recently with quite a bang. These popping colours are eye-catching, and can be mesmerising if used correctly. This is a great technique for the amateur nail tech and creates fun and funky nail art for any client.

Step 1

When using pigments, you want to make sure you have a matt surface. I personally like to do a matt top coat over my base colour and lightly buff as well.

Step 4

Brush off your fluffy brush and add the next colour. Place colour where you want it to be most saturated and blend out the sides in circular motion. To make blending easier, you can slightly overlap colours as well. Keep adding, dabbing and blending the colours. Between each layer, brush off your fluffy brush on a paper towel to remove excess pigment.

Step 2

Use a sticky white gel as the base, to lay the foundation for where you want to do pigment. I prefer Zsa Zsa L001 or Planet Nails Lastick White. The sticky layer can be a solid layer, or lines and art. I chose to do half the nail solid and used a line brush to get that crisp line.

Step 5

After adding your last layer, make sure that you are satisfied with the positioning of your pigments and the blending of your layers. Then, take a fluffy dusting brush and gently dust off the pigment, but avoid taking pigment off the white tacky layer.

Step 3

Use a small fluffy brush to dab on pigment. Start with the lightest colour and work your way up to the darkest. For an ombre effect, I moved the brush in a circular motion at the end to make blending easier.

Step 6

Seal in the pigment powder ombre with a matt top coat, and then add the art or detail. I added a black line with a line brush and a leopard print using a dotting tool. A 2D painting gel works best for art because it’s very saturated and one layer covers everything nicely. It also allows you to do fine details without looking blurry. Finally, seal with a top coat.

Ronay Delport was a full-time photographer when she started studying make-up artistry in 2018. She completed an Advanced Nail Technology course with Zsa Zsa Nails for Professionals a year later and is now an ambassador for the brand. Delport is currently working full time as a nail technician and beauty therapist at SOHO Hair & Color Lab in Kempton Park.

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NAIL ART Inspiration

Live life in full bloom with Spring nail trends

Salon owner Renaisha Moodley looks at what the coming season may bring in terms of colours and styles

Here are some ideas to create beautiful nails that your clients will adore you for. Add some glam with a pearl chrome pigment over a sheer pink or nude. Apply onto a whole set, or one to two accent nails. Hot pink is making its debut this Spring in fashion and should definitely be an option for your manicures and pedicures. This is always a timeless colour, either on its own or with some nail art for added pizazz. Flower power is a definite must-have – from stickers to hand-drawn nail art. Simple leaf art can be monochrome or colourful. Experiment with colours, shapes and some foil art. Mattify your set and accent afterwards for a 3D look. Not sure which pastel colours to suggest to your clients? In that case, use them all. Choose pretty pastels to create a rainbow mani. It’s subtle but on point. Cow print and zebra print nails are back. Replicate this chic look with pops of colour and animal prints. Nail a minimalistic set by adding pastel dots or stripes, taking it from simple to fun. Every set of nails is a way of expressing oneself, enhancing your mood, and a form of self-care. More women need to be reminded of this every day. We as nail technicians can motivate them. Encourage clients to step out a bit and you will be surprised at the joy it brings them. The possibilities are endless. We truly have the best job so, most of all, have fun with it. Pretty nails do make one happy.

s the seasons change, so do our mood, fashion, make-up and, of course, nails. Springtime always brings in a breath of fresh air – a time of new beginnings and clearing out the old and welcoming the new. Spring is a lovely reminder to us of how beautiful change can actually be. This is an exciting time in salons as we make the transition from darker colours to pastels and flowery nail art. Don’t forget that it will soon be sandal season, when clients will be lining up for pedicures and a fresh gel paint. Salons and nail techs should always ensure to keep up with the latest trends.

What’s hot

From the catwalks to the latest fashion magazines, it’s clear that subtle nudes, pearl chrome nails, pretty pastels, funky animal prints and floral art are making a statement. Pale pinks, sky blues and lilacs are dominating, although colours such as Botegga green (Botegga Veneta’s signature bright green hue), fuschia and cobalt blue are also bringing Spring to life. These bold shades evoke feelings of warmth and joy. Now is the time to persuade your clients to wear almond and stiletto nails. These shapes are very feminine and surely flattering. Clients should wear them loud and proud.

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Renaisha Moodley started her nail journey in 2003 and has a home-based salon in Centurion offering nail and make-up services. She enjoys working with both acrylic and gel nail systems, with nail art being her favourite.

IN THE MARKET

Finishing touch

Calgel’s clean top gel 3.5g is a new finishing gel for the brand that offers an additional hygiene measure. It creates an anti-bacterial barrier on the surface of the gel nails, while sealing and protecting the gel surface and offering a natural shine. 011 624 1101

No more ridges

From CND, RIDGEFX™ is a nail surface enhancer and ridge-filling base coat that perfects the appearance of the natural nail. It instantly smooths nails and minimises imperfections for beautiful colour application. RIDGEFX™ brightens and evens out natural nail colour with optic diffusers and refines the nail texture with Optifil Technology™. 011 791 4027

Product Hub

Photo by Nikhil Uttam on Unsplash

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails

Get into the groove

Bio Sculpture’s Boogie Blues is a unique blue that is bright, bold and beautiful. Available in 4.5g Biogel and 14ml Gemini nail polish, this fun and vibrant shade is perfect for getting your groove on, whether you’re hitting the dance floor, or just jamming out at home. It is sure to put a smile on your client’s face. 051 943 0377

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Q&A

Top Tech Talk

NailFile talks to Cathrine Naude of BeautyWorx about her journey from mobile nail tech to being the founder/ owner of a full service beauty, nails, laser and aesthetic salon

You started your part-time mobile service in 2006 – was that for nails only, or other beauty treatments as well? It was mostly nails but I did do other treatments as well.

What made you want to go the mobile route?

The salon that I was working for at the time closed down, so it was really more a request from my customers to continue. I had a very small apartment and it was not suitable to work from. So mobile was my only choice.

What advice would you give to a nail tech wanting to start a mobile service?

Mobile is not something I would recommend as I think it lowers the standard of our industry. It is not always easy to stay professional if you are working from a customer’s dining room table, with her dog and kids running circles around you. I know this might sound harsh, but it is

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Q&A

the reality. Clients also don’t treat you as a professional when you are in their home. Furthermore, I don’t always find mobile financially viable. You can’t see as many customers in a day as you would in a salon because it takes extra time to travel between clients, and extra time to unpack your kit and repack it. And, customers unfortunately don’t always respect your time if you are in their home, so they might tend to the kids for 5 minutes, or put the oven on, etc. Whatever it might be takes additional time. So, if you take your cost per minute into consideration, you would have to charge a call out fee of up to R450 per customer to make it viable. This does not include you traveling rate per kilometre. If you were to charge your customer a call out fee, a travel rate and a service fee for the treatments provided to her, it becomes expensive and clients then rather go to a salon. Unfortunately, not all nail technicians have the relevant business training to work this out and therefore often undercharge for services and eventually end up bankrupt.

MOBILE IS NOT something I WOULD RECOMMEND as I think it LOWERS THE STANDARD OF OUR INDUSTRY. It is NOT always easy to STAY PROFESSIONAL if you are working FROM A CUSTOMER’S DINING ROOM TABLE, with her dog and kids running circles around you.

What prompted you to open your full-time home-based salon?

I had moved to a bigger property and started saving to section off a part of my home for the salon. This would enable me to give my customers the professional experience that they deserve. And, I would be able to see more clients per day. If you break it down, we really charge per hour in the beauty industry. I knew that this arrangement would not be forever as I really wanted a professional salon at a professional location.

Since owning your salon BeautyWorx in Centurion, what have been the biggest challenges you faced as a business owner?

Aside from Covid and lockdown, staff is our number one challenge as it is difficult to find good nail technicians. When you employ a nail technician, you normally have to provide her with additional training in order to get her up to your standard, which costs you time and money. And once they reach your level, they build up a client base in your salon at your marketing, set up and running expense, and then they leave and go and work from their home with your client base. Unfortunately, young nail technicians all dream of working from home. Sadly, this is often from a spare room or a dining room table and not always professional. But our clients care for us and therefore accept the unprofessional environment, and it usually comes at a more affordable rate, making it very popular. This really hurts the industry in the long run.

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Q&A How have you found business at your salon this year?

Footfall has slowly increased, however we lost so many of our regular clientele after Covid that it was almost like starting over fresh. So, we have not completely recovered. Winter is always tricky, but we do have high hopes for the rest of the year.

Have you had to make any business changes in terms of staff and treatment menu?

As difficult as it was, I was able to keep all my staff and pay them in full, however we were not able to give big increases or Christmas bonuses. We did give what we could. As for our menu, we have not been able to have our annual price increases as customers are really not all back on their feet yet and can’t afford the same things they used to.

Do you yourself perform nail services in the salon?

Yes, I am completely hands on. However, I don’t do a lot of nails any more as I have chosen to specialise in permanent make-up and plasma the last 4 years. But I have clients that have been with me for more than 19 years, so I still service them. And, I am always willing to do any treatment as I love the industry as a whole.

How many nail techs do you employ? Two.

What percentage of your overall revenue is generated by nail services? Probably 30% to 35%.

I believe you are a qualified trainer and assessor – why did you want to go this route?

FOOTFALL has slowly INCREASED THIS YEAR, however WE LOST SO MANY of our regular CLIENTELE after Covid that it was almost like STARTING OVER fresh.

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The beauty industry is not always an easy one; our hours are hectic and our customers demand a lot from us. For example, you can’t just call in sick with a fully booked day. Your customers would often rather have you there sick then go to another therapist. We love and appreciate our customers for their loyalty and support, but it’s still not always easy. I did a facilitator and assessor course thinking that once I have children, this would be an easier route, especially because lecturers don’t work weekends.

Where did you qualify as a trainer and assessor?

I did my course through BSD (Behavior System Development) and can train for any section/ treatment in the beauty industry, as long as I am qualified to do it and if I have been doing it for more than 3 years.

We hope you enjoyed this edition of Professional Beauty If you would like to view previous issues of the magazine please click HERE

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