Professional Beauty Jan/Feb

WHAT 2023 HAS IN STORE

The Professional Beauty Team would like to wish all industry stakeholders the best possible (and healthy!) 2023. May it turn out to be all that you wish for.

At the time of publication, South Africa had been grappling with constant and escalating load shedding since July 2022. With no sign of any improvement in the situation in sight, business owners are having to come up with ways to deal with several power cuts a day because, if they don’t, their businesses will suffer and their revenue plunge. On our lead news page you will find a story of how some salon owners are meeting this significant and very trying challenge.

Electricity crisis aside, the rest of the magazine is filled with far less depressing stories. For instance, there is a big focus on trends that we might expect to see this year – both in the beauty and spa sector, as well as the aesthetics domain. Articles such as these always provide a useful reference for beauty owners in terms of giving them an idea of what to look out for in the market.

We also include a useful article on how to plan for the year and the importance of being prepared to meet the future. This article also stresses the importance of self-motivation in helping to reach your goals.

The eye, neck and bust areas are notorious for ageing faster than the face, which is why we have included a special feature on treatments for these parts of the body.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor – Professional Beauty

Publisher Mark Moloney mark@probeauty.co.za

M anaging Director Yolanda Knott 011 781 5970 yolanda@probeauty.co.za

Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 083 411 8512 joanna@probeauty.co.za

Marketing Executive Natasha Chisese natasha@professionalbeauty.org.za

Sales Consultant Charlene Dickson 079 116 3262 charlene@professionalbeauty.org.za

Operations Executive Obey Dube obey@probeauty.co.za

Design Saveer Sugreem

Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970

The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

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Cover pic by Diamantino Santos from Pixabay

How salons are dealing with load shedding

Salons are being severely affected by the electricity crisis and having to cope with constant power cuts several times a day.

Says Ayesha Rajah of Urban Bliss in Emmarentia: “Luckily, we already had a massive generator on the property, but we had to become a bit wiser in explaining to clients why we sometimes have to juggle them. My main problem is that the Eskom load shedding schedule is never consistent. However, we haven’t turned anyone away yet.”

Rajah is short-running the generator during load-shedding and only uses it for the facial steamer and mag lamp. For massage treatments, the hot caddy is on for 15 minutes before only. Other than that, candles are used during treatments. A serious problem is having to boil a kettle for pedicures as that really drains the generator.

“In terms of business, we are literally just breaking even, what with the normal electricity bill (which has just gone up) and the generator costs. If you are not doing volume in treatments, you are lost. We can’t increase our prices anymore because of the poor economy. Consequently, we have been running lots of specials just to break even and are now even offering food.”

Rajah is currently investing in two 5KWh batteries and an inverter for the steamers and kettle. Once the salon returns to profit, she will have solar panels.

Significant investment

Gina Gall of The Professional Skin Care Lab in Parkhurst recently installed 12 solar panels, two batteries and an inverter. She explains: “Obviously this was a huge investment but our generator was problematic. Apart from being noisy and smelly, my poor staff were being driven mad by having to run outside all the time to switch the generator on and off, and were always concerned about running out of diesel.

“Furthermore, we could only use certain machines with the generator, and some of this equipment was getting damaged because of the different power output. This severely affected my business as I had to cancel some clients and shuffle others around.”

Load shedding has impacted Dolce Vita Beauty

Centre in Randpark Ridge in terms of how many bookings it can take at any given time, especially when the Eskom load shedding schedule changes without warning.

Says owner Kym Stafford: “We had a generator installed as it was the most feasible option in terms of investment costs. Because we run a lot of machines, I need quite a lot of power. I am considering a hybrid grid of solar (plus inverter) for certain things and the generator for others.

“We are a small to medium size business and spending about R1,500 a week on diesel for the generator. This is a cost that is not always factored in as much as it should be as our clients’ budgets have tightened, so we do take a hit.

“The switchovers from load shedding to non-load shedding are supposedly automatic but it does take a couple of minutes to kick in, making you late for your treatments.”

Power-free equipment

Hines & Harley in Parkhurst was designed to function without power. Says founder Jared Hines: “All of our equipment either does not need power or has chargeable batteries. So thankfully load shedding has not affected us as severely as other businesses. We did make the decision to install a generator just to give our clients a more comfortable experience.”

Image from Shutterstock

Professional Beauty Expo returns to Cape Town

Set to run on Sunday, 5 March at CTICC 2, the Professional Beauty Cape Town Expo will feature leading brands in the beauty sector, alongside a programme of informative business seminars. Topics include: How to market your salon without social media; How can a salon owner/manager ensure their staff is on par with the customer’s needs?; How body, ethnicity and age diversity are impacting beauty brands; The Clean Beauty Movement (TBC); How to keep your finances in check, debt management, accounting, payroll; What if Covid was the best thing that ever happened to your business?; The importance of professional training in beauty professions; Keeping mentally healthy as a beauty professional. Speakers include digital brand strategist Lucille Divine, training specialist Lucinda Burch, business expert Diana Van Sittert, beauty lecturer Stephanie De Abreu, training academy owner Sandy Fuhr, spa consultant Jacoline Wentzel, and beauty and business coach, Helena van der Vyver.

Entrance fee for each seminar session is R40. To book your place click here https://pbcapetown.showhub.live/professional-beauty-cape-town/ tickets/639980fa623f3f00191a74d2

To see the seminar schedule click here https://www.probeauty.co.za/business-seminars-programme

The Professional Beauty Expo provides the perfect platform for industry professionals to source suppliers, network with peers, and learn about the latest trends. Entrance to the expo is free for all those who pre-register. Click here https://pbcapetown.showhub.live/events/professional-beautycape-town/signup/63c7ab0a2afa2a00198b4db7

Top 2023 aesthetic treatments predicted

Wellness aesthetics, injectable polynucleotides, post-childbirth treatments, energy-based devices and corrective clinics are predicted to be strong trends in the aesthetics market this year.

So say experts who were quoted on this topic in a recently published article in Aesthetic Medicine Magazine.

Says Claire Williams, chief executive of WOW Facial: “Wellness is set to become a huge part of aesthetics and beauty over the next few years. While the demand for safe and effective treatments will remain, customers will also look for treatments or clinics that offer further-reaching results for their mental and spiritual well-being. Whether that’s high-tech facials with a side of hypnotherapy, non-invasive body treatments that include energy healing, or cosmetic doctors collaborating with wellbeing experts in their clinic, the aesthetics industry will focus on feeling (and looking) good.

While 2022 was the year for Profhilo, the injectables set to be a conversation starter this year are polynucleotides. “I’ve been using injectable polynucleotides for some time now and believe these will eventually become the injectable bio stimulator of choice,” says Dr Dev Patel, the founder of Perfect Skin Solutions. “Essentially [they are] tiny chains of code which can trigger collagen production, increased hydration and a powerful antiinflammatory effect to name just a few things. They are approved for a diverse list of concerns and injectable administration, allowing for greater depth of penetration. I use these for both skin and hair rejuvenation.”

In 2023, treatments designed to improve feminine health, including post-childbirth, are set to become more accessible and discussed. These include aesthetic solutions for vaginal dryness, pelvic floor health and skin laxity. Celebrities have also been publicising their positive experiences with stomach-tightening treatments after having children.

Dr Patel believes that energy-based devices (EBDs) will steal the thunder in 2023. “These types of machines, with their various attachments, can be used on the face and body to non-invasively treat the skin, including targeting wrinkles and body skin laxity.”

In terms of the corrective clinics trend, some practitioners have pivoted their clinics to focus almost exclusively on corrective procedures. Others are investing in complementary treatments that limit the risks. (Source: aestheticmed.co.uk)

Image from Shutterstock

Chebula predicted to be a dominant skincare ingredient this year

An anti-ageing Ayurvedic herb known in the world of Ayurveda as ‘the king of medicines’, chebula is rich in antioxidants, moisturises and brightens the skin, and is also believed to correct photo damage.

“It’s a tiny little berry that packs a big punch, which explains why searches for this ingredient have spiked by 922%,” states The Beauty Pie 2023 Trends Report.

To create the 2023 Trends Report, online cosmetics platform Beauty Pie analysed millions of data points for

hundreds of trends on TikTok, Instagram, Pinterest and Google.

According to the report, “Peptide lip treatments are the second-biggest skincare trend, followed by lash serum, and lip sunscreen. The fifth hottest trend in the world of skincare will be refillable skincare, which is now being searched for 42% more.”

(Source: https://www.beautypie.com/blog/posts/ trends-report-2023 )

The brow styles likely to prevail in 2023

Bleached brows, rainbow brows, skinny brows, straight brows and even embellished brows are just some of the styles likely to trend this year.

London-based session make-up artist, Callista Lorian Thomas, is quoted by Kezia Parkins in a Professional Beauty UK article as saying: “Fashion has shown a palpable shift away from the more defined, fluffy arches of the last few years, giving way to drastically different emergent brow trends.”

Bleached brows were seen on the Spring 2023 catwalks and feature increasingly on TikTok and Pinterest searches. Thomas points out that this style has its roots in queer counterculture and often described as ‘the gender-neutral brow’. This look, seen on Kendall Jenner, Madonna and Julia Fox, can be tricky to achieve and

the client’s brow hair needs to be strong enough to withstand the bleach.

Thomas points out that ‘rainbow brows’ currently has 1.3 million views on TikTok and the look has been spotted on the likes of singer-songwriter Lizzo and model Cara Delevingne. HD Brows chief executive and permanent make-up pioneer, Karen Betts, adds that this look is most easily achieved for those with already bleached or naturally light brows. Rainbows aside, the coloured brow trend so popular back in 2014 is likely to make a comeback this year.

After so many years of strong brows epitomised by Cara Delevigne and Lilly Collins, skinny brows have returned with 86.3 million TikTok views. Says Betts: “This is great news for clients who over-plucked in the 1990s and noughties, but less achievable for those with fuller brows. Clients may come in wanting skinny brows without plucking or waxing too much of what they already have.”

Straight brows, as opposed to arched brows, are predicted to trend strongly in 2023.

Embellished Brows were big at Paris Fashion Week [SS23], with studs, pearls, sequins, gems and metallic foil.

All the above notwithstanding, laminated brows are still the biggest trend, according to Betts, who comments: “This treatment currently has 947 million views on TikTok”. Unusually shaped, spiked-up brows are likely to take this trend further.”

Soap brows, popular for some time now, were still trending big time on TikTok as of late last year. To achieve this style, soap is used to secure hairs in place.

(Source: https://professionalbeauty.co.uk/site/ newsdetails/2023-brow-trends)

Image from Shutterstock

Image from Shutterstock

Clicks puts in offer to buy Sorbet

As per a statement issued by the JSE Stock Exchange News Services (SENS) on 24 November 2022, Clicks Group is to acquire Sorbet Holdings for a cash consideration of R105 million.

The Sorbet Group consists of 190 franchise stores across South Africa under various brands – Sorbet Beauty Salon, Sorbet Nailbar, Sorbet Man, Sorbet Hairbar and Candi & Co.

Clicks, a pharmacy and beauty group with over 850 stores nationwide, previously acquired 25% of Sorbet back in 2015. It is buying Sorbet from Old Mutual Private Equity, who acquired the business in March 2022 as part of the previously listed Long4Life Group. Sorbet was founded in 2005 by Ian Fuhr, who sold it to Long4Life in 2017.

Sorbet Group will remain located in Johannesburg and the CEO, Linda Sinclair, will report to the Clicks Group CEO. All Sorbet employees will be transferred to Clicks.

The proposed transaction is subject to approval by competition authorities.

(Sources: SENS; moneyweb.co.za; mg.co.za)

New moves at SAAHSP

The South Africa Association of Health & Skincare Professionals (SAAHSP) has appointed Yolanda Kömmer (Hagg) as its new administrator.

Kömmer, a 37-year-old qualified somatologist, facilitator, assessor, moderator and mom to a little girl, takes over from Joelette Theron, who has served in the position for many years.

Says Kömmer: “My goal is to keep building onto the legacy left by those who started SAAHSP, as well as those who worked countless hours building the Professional Body to what it is today, all in order to benefit this beautiful industry.”

Kömmer was born and raised in Pretoria, where she studied at the Tshwane University of Technology from 2004 to 2007. She achieved both her National Diploma and Bachelor’s Degree in Somatology, as well as the CIDESCO international diploma.

“It was while I was working in spas that I discovered my love for training and in 2012 decided to pursue a path in lecturing. After relocating to the West Rand (Randfontein), I traded in my therapist hat for my lecturing hat. As such, I taught at Camelot International for the most part since 2016 and ended up at Madge Wallace International College.

“Through all the ups and downs in my career I had God, my family, friends, colleagues and employers guiding and supporting me all the way to this wonderful opportunity that awaits me at SAAHSP,” says Kömer.

Skin Fundi launches academy

Well-known skincare expert, Sonette Donker, founder of the Skin iD Studio in Sandton, has expanded her online skincare guidance advice and training portal to offer post-graduate workshops.

The Skin Fundi Academy offers the following: Basic Consultation Workshop; Basic Chemical Peel Workshop; and Basic Micro-Needling Workshop.

Says Donker: “Making the transition from a traditional skincare clinic or medical centre into the realm of aesthetics can be daunting. No one understands this process better than me. After working for leading scientific skincare brands such as Dermalogica, Dermaceutic, Nimue and pHformula, it was a huge challenge to open my own skin studio and offer results oriented treatments. Based on this difficult, but worthy transition, I created workshops to help others like me. My years of experience are shared in the Skin Fundi workshops, which I believe will boost your confidence and knowledge to change skins and your business.”

Donker emphasises that the workshops are intended as post-graduate training only and do not replace the basic skin diploma. She continues: “As such, relevant product brand training is required to do chemical peels and micro-needling treatments. My Basic Workshops are intended for the professional who has never worked in an aesthetic centre and is interested to step into this world. This professional has never performed a chemical peel or a micro-needling treatment.”

Ideal candidates for the workshops include: nurse moving from a medical setting into an aesthetic setting; aesthetician/ skin therapist/ beauty therapist/ somatologist moving from a traditional skincare centre setting into an aesthetic setting; and any medical staff needing to perform aesthetic treatments.

The Advanced Workshops are intended for the professional already working in an aesthetic centre performing chemical peels and microneedling treatments.

Yolanda Kömmer

Sonette Donker

Top beauty looks at the Golden Globes

The recent Golden Globes event in Los Angeles kicked off the annual Hollywood awards season and saw some fabulous make-up designs on the red carpet

Smoky eyes, bold liner and lashes, as well as pale lips, were the order of the day on the Golden Globe Awards red carpet, held in Los Angeles on 10 January.

This was a look favoured in subtle variations by many of the stars, including Michelle Yeoh, who won a Golden Globe award for ‘Everything Everywhere All at Once’.

Nominee Lilly James (‘Pam & Tommy’) was all about neutral make-up, apart from strong dark brows. Elizabeth Debicki, nominated for playing Princess Diana in ‘The Crown’, opted for a minimalist make-up look, quite befitting her striking bone structure. Another nominee, Daisy Edgar-Jones (‘Under the Banner of Heaven’), also had barely-there make-up, as did ‘Black Panther: Wakanda Forever’ actress, Letitia Wright.

Winner Jennifer Coolidge (‘The White Lotus’) had her eyes in neutral tones with just enough eyeliner and lashes and pale pink lipstick. A more dramatic version was seen on nominee Jenna Ortega, who plays the title role in the ‘Wednesday’ TV series. Ortega’s large dark eyes were super-enhanced with cat’s eye liner on both lids, with white in the water line to make the orbs look bigger, and finished off with pale lipstick.

There was the occasional splash of colour on the eyes, notably on nominee Viola Davis, who sported emerald green liner on her lower lid, which toned in with her spectacular blue gown.

Also sporting colour, albeit in a more bizarre way, was ‘House of the Dragon’ star Emma D’Arcy, whose blue ringed eyes extended to teardrops in the same hue under one eye.

Winner Angela Bassett (‘Black Panther: Wakanda Forever’) looked fabulous with metallic silver shadow and deep pink lipstick, while fellow winner, Quinta Brunson (‘Abbott Elementary’) went for a lovely ombre eye shadow design.

The smoky eyes of actress, writer, director and producer, Natasha Lyonne, were paired with nude lips to set off her vibrant orange hair. Also going for the smoky look, this time in a plum shade, was singer/ actress Selena Gomez.

Supermodel and TV presenter, Heidi Klum, chose uncharacteristically dark and heavy eye make-up, all the more visible because her trademark, eyelash-skimming blonde fringe was swept off her face. The look was completed with the palest of lipsticks.

Daisy Edgar-Jones @daisyedgarjones

Heidi Klum @heidiklum

Jenna Ortega @jennaortega

Quinta Brunson @quintab

Viola Davis @violadavis

Natasha Lyonne @nlyonne

What are the do’s and don’ts of semi-permanent eyebrow processes for skin of colour

emi-permanent make-up has been helping people enhance their natural beauty for decades, but over the past few years, it has become easier for permanent make-up artists to specialise in melanated skin. For years, artists were told by their instructors that they could not perform permanent cosmetic services on skin of colour; technicians believed that permanent make-up healed poorly on darker skin. Fortunately, this myth has been dispelled and artists around the world are showing off beautiful healed results on skin of colour. However, if you wish to perform eyebrow processes on clients with deeper skin tones, there are a few things that you should keep in mind to ensure optimal healing.

Melanated skin tends to produce greater amounts of sebum and oils, which can encourage pigment migration. To counteract the risk, artists should be careful not to oversaturate the skin with pigment. When too much pigment is deposited, the skin is overworked and the brows may have an ashy or cool tone when healed. Regardless of skin tone, overworked skin may also become scarred or hyperpigmented. However, skin of colour can have a more severe inflammatory reaction to trauma, known as postinflammatory pigmentation, which results in skin discolouration. To minimise any risks to clients, you should be particularly attentive when working with skin of colour. You should not jump around or work randomly – filling one section at a time ensures that the skin is evenly saturated and the design is preserved.

Visual cues

You should also pay attention to the visual cues for skin of colour. When working with lighter skin tones, artists are able to pay attention to visual cues such as redness and bruising (a sign of trauma). However, visual cues can look different when working with skin of colour, making it easy for uninformed artists to accidentally overwork the skin. When working with melanated skin, keep an eye out for blood, swelling and excessive lymph. If you see any of these cues, you must give your client’s skin a break, switch to a slower speed, adjust the needle so that it does not snag, and ensure that you are applying gentle pressure. When working with melanated skin, you should be patient and take your time: a slower pace allows the pigment to oxidise, making it easier to see the level of saturation.

Our experts answer questions around all aspects of the industry

Images from Shutterstock

Hair stroke

When performing hair stroke techniques, it is best to keep ample space between each stroke until healed. At that point, you can see which lines should be added during a follow-up appointment in order to complete the design. The best eyebrow techniques for skin of colour are machine stroke and powder eyebrows. If done correctly, these techniques cause less trauma and allow the artist to increase definition via shading techniques. Microblading is not recommended on melanin-rich skin since it is more likely to scar, discolour, or result in keloids.

Pigments

When working on skin of colour, you can choose from a wide variety of pigment choices to achieve a beautiful, healed eyebrow – black pigments and orange modifiers are not the only options for permanent make-up on melaninrich clients. In fact, all-black pigment can lead to poor results when healed.

In order to understand the science behind different colours of pigment and how they affect healed results, artists must be knowledgeable in colour theory. Once you’ve mastered colour theory, you’ll be able to achieve browns that retain their warmth even when healed.

In summary to achieve beautiful healed results on skin of colour, you should:

• Work on a low speed

• Apply gentle pressure

• Avoid oversaturation

• Use a short needle that catches the skin

• Allow pigment to oxidize so you can see your work

• Work section-by-section

• Understand colour theory and the science of melanin

Dior Davenport is a co-founder of the Black Micropigmentation Association, a global non-profit organisation that is committed to supporting black artists in the permanent make-up industry and providing education, training and community for all.

www.blackmicropigmentationassociation.com

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS?

Send your questions about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@ professionalbeauty.org.za

Planning for you and your beauty business in 2023

Salon & spa consultant Helena van der Vyver shares her tips on how to start the process of planning for the year and what the roll-out should look like

reparation is never wasted. In the beauty industry, however, this often lacks as so many owners work within the business itself or have other businesses that they need to attend to. They are thus challenged to prioritise working on the operational aspects of their business and preparing for the year ahead through proper planning.

We all have varied personalities and weaknesses that can limit us. For instance, there are the over-thinkers, the procrastinators, the perfectionists, those who fear failure, and others who are poor at admin.

So, I hope that the following information will empower you to be strong and brave enough to plan your business year to do better, rest more, and actually enjoy what you do.

Your business plan doesn’t have to be overly complex, but it does need to be organised and give you a framework to map out the year.

“Do yourself a favour and learn all you can. Then remember what you learn and you will prosper.” – King Solomon (Proverbs)

Remember that it is crucial to invest both in yourself as well as your team.

‘Wheel of Life’

It is important to access your personal ‘Wheel of Life’ and to look at the eight areas of your existence in terms of where you are, and what you want to focus on so as to grow in 2023. The eight areas are:

1. Personal Growth

2. Family and friends

3. Finances

4. Health & Wellbeing

5. Romantic Relationships

6. Career and Life Purpose

7. Confidence and Self-image

8. Happiness and Creativity

Once you have identified the main one-to-three areas for growth, be very specific what action/s it will require and book dates (or set timelines) to ensure they form part of your year.

For example, let’s say I want to grow my career and life purpose, then what am I going to do differently and specifically this year? The answer: I will schedule a full day per month and spend it in a remote setting where I can write, study or strategise. In addition, I will set myself up for

Image from Shutterstock

specific exposure in term of engagement, which I’ve never done before and in an area in which I want to grow.

Eat and exercise

This is so crucial for us in order to operate energetically and be consistent in our day-today work. Be practical in terms of how you can eat better. This can mean the following: eat more regularly, drink more water, eat healthier options, drink less alcohol, eat less sugar, opt for more clever carbohydrate options, drink less carbonated water, aim for 100gram protein goal per day, and/or doing meal preparations, etc.

Exercise helps us to cope better with stress and sleep better. Decide what it is you want to achieve. Be more consistent in terms of exercising; build muscles, increase your fitness, and perhaps opt for swimming or Pilates/ stretching as these are more calming forms of exercise. Other suggestions are to join a grit class at the gym to be more social, or to go on a nature hike monthly to get fresh air and inspiration, etc.

The ideal client

Acquiring new clients continually and retaining these new clients, as well as looking after existing clients, is key in business.

Do you know who your ideal client is? Or do you just take any client to ensure income, often driven by the fear of not being able to pay the bills. It is key that you start identifying who your ideal client is. What does she do, what is her budget, how much time does she have, does she respect my business boundaries, does she appreciate my service, does she refer clients to my business, does she buy home care products from my business and not online, etc.?

These are a few questions to consider as a way of categorising your ideal clients in order to grow them specifically.

Thank you’s

Gratitude opens doors and keeps us humble. How do you show this towards your clients? Do you have a thank you aspect to your annual birthday celebration, or with the Christmas season? A hand-written card goes a long way. This can be given to a client in her birthday month, if not all clients, then at least your regular clients.

Loyalty

So many businesses reward loyalty these days that it has become a general expectation of your clientele. I believe you can give up to 5% back. Decide what you want to grow and reward purchases based on that. It’s always best to give back in treatments through loyalty rewards.

Reviews

Do you have an easy platform for clients to post reviews and do you ask clients to review your business regularly? Word of mouth is still the most powerful marketing tool and when this appears online, it is doing your marketing while you sleep, which is obviously the best possible scenario.

Knowledge

If we only have the same knowledge this year as that of 2022, then we are moving backwards. In which areas do you want to grow your knowledge? Where will you gain this knowledge, i.e., through training, google, people, books, a mentor, etc.?

“Enthusiasm without knowledge is not good… He who hurries with his feet acting impulsively and proceeding without caution or analysing the consequences misses the mark. “- King Solomon (Proverbs)

Socialising + spirit

Covid-19 left us with a craving to be more social. So, how will you restore the social aspect of your being this year? Will you go to social events, invite friends/family for a meal, or engage in some other activities?

We are also spiritual beings. What will you do on a daily/weekly basis to feed your spirit? Will it be meditation, readings, prayer, fellowship, journaling, spiritual books, etc.?

“Get all the advice you can, and you will succeed; without it you will fail.” -

Proverbs

In terms of planning better in 2023, make sure you detail, set dates and action everything. Start with less actions rather than more, but do get them done. You can always add more actions with time. Start with those actions that will impact what is most important to you and enjoy them.

Helena van der Vyver has been a beauty business coach for almost 10 years. Her 30 years’ of beauty industry specific experience sets her on the level of ‘Beauty Industry Titan’. Van der Vyver coaches aesthetic doctors, beauty/hair salons, spas, brands as well as non-beauty entrepreneurs, having herself gone through the ranks of beauty therapist, assistant manager, manager, operations manager and entrepreneur. Email info@1nespa.co.za

Image from Shutterstock

Trends that will impact your business this year

he following forecast will equip you with a professional edge that can help drive your business and future-proof it against the changing times.

Menopause makeovers

As menopause care becomes a focus for many women, there is an opportunity to provide specialised treatments and packages that target the unique needs of this time of life. From anti-ageing facials designed specifically for dry or sensitive skin, to comprehensive body and facial services combined with educational presentations, spas and salons have the ability to create thoughtful solutions catered towards each individual’s understanding and journey through menopause.

Take advantage of technology such as tightening procedures too. With some extra research, your business will be in a prime position to guide and educate your clients who experience these natural occurrences as they age gracefully.

Keeping her finger on the pulse of 2023, spa consultant and business coach, Marisa Dimitriadis, identifies key movements shaping the global industry

Images from Shutterstock

Adaptive and immersive

In order to take your business to the next level and reach double digit growth, providing tailored treatments for each client is essential. With a personalised approach, customers will feel unique and special, cultivating an environment of retention and acquisition success.

Take it one step further by immersing clients in nature-like experiences, through creative tech tactics like soundscapes, which can create truly remarkable results. By playing sounds such as thunder or rain during massages, you can help transport visitors out of their everyday world into something extraordinary.

has been somewhat controversial, women are now exploring everything from Vajacials (vaginal facials), to Vajazzle (applying sticker jewelry), to Vasparkling (glitter stencil design applied directly onto the area), all with an eye towards aesthetic appeal and natural rejuvenation of their delicate regions, keeping it clear of ingrown hair and pimples.

Sound therapy

Step into a new world of sound-infused wellness treatments and let your clients experience something truly extraordinary. From the calming resonance of Sound Baths, to gentle music that complements traditional spa procedures like pedicures, your clients will be able to relax deeply with carefully curated sounds tailored for their individual needs.

Immerse yourself in Autonomous Sensory Meridian Response (ASMR) – an increasingly popular treatment featuring soothing whispers, which causes tingling sensations on one’s head and neck. This relaxation method helps release oxytocin, which has further been shown to reduce stress levels and is amplified when combined with treatments such as massage and facials. ASMR also helps soothe feelings of anxiety and depression and can reduce the effects of insomnia.

Sustainability

To make real strides towards a more sustainable business practice, it is essential to take action and demonstrate your commitment. As consumers are increasingly looking for this from their partners, the time could not be better to show them what you, as a salon or spa, are doing in terms of green practices.

Preventative

As we strive to become our happiest and healthiest selves, prevention is an increasingly vital component of wellness. In this case the old adage proves true –prevention really is better than cure!

With the rise in consumer awareness about preventative treatments as opposed to curative ones, now, more than ever, it’s important for salons and spas to understand how a focus on education and preventive care can benefit their clients’ skin and overall wellbeing.

Hormone eating has also become popular recently – becoming educated around this topic will help you provide your customers with guidance throughout their journey to better physical health. In fact, you could easily collaborate with a specialist dietician to ensure your clients are eating correctly for their hormones, which will work well alongside your new preventative treatments as well.

Vaginal care

Caring for the sensitive skin in our intimate areas is becoming a priority, and recent trends suggest it’s here to stay.

More than just vaginal steaming, which

Appointing someone as ‘green officer’ in your business can help get things off on the right foot. This staff member will act as the lead for all sustainable initiatives, while also making sure clients recognise and value these efforts.

For example, why not start an initiative such as ‘Leave The Box’ that rewards customers who opt out of unnecessary packaging? Even a small discount will go far in showing good environmental stewardship. Furthermore, have the client return the empty product container for appropriate recycling and provide loyalty points or an additional discount.

The ‘Shroom Kaboom!’

Get ready for the medicinal mushroom revolution! Combining these little fungi with anti-oxidants is making them more popular than ever, as research has demonstrated their potential to reduce stress and anxiety levels, improve immunity and gut health, increase energy levels and performance during sports activities. And all while helping us find our focus again, boosting libido, improving skin heath and even assisting in getting a good night’s sleep.

Digital detox

After three long years of over-reliance on technology to cope with the COVID pandemic, it’s time for our industry – spas and salons – to lead by example. Let’s invite clients back into real-life environments where they can give up their digital devices in exchange for some quality ‘me time’.

MENTAL WELLBEING has been an IMPORTANT FOCUS for the PAST THREE YEARS and is still one of our HIGHEST PRIORITIES TODAY. It’s about making sure that the way we feel (EMOTIONAL WELL-BEING) and HOW WE FUNCTION (RELATIONSHIPS AND PURPOSE) is healthy, helping us to BETTER COPE WITH LIFE.

What better way to do this than by offering a safe place free from digital distractions by offering clients ‘device sleeping bags’ to add a layer of fun? With this simple addition, your business will demonstrate its commitment, not just to treatments but also to meaningful respite away from all that relentless tech input.

Tech-driven facial treatments

Technology has unlocked an exciting new era of facial treatments. Consumers are increasingly seeking both ‘instant’ and more comprehensive changes to their skin. To maximize the potential for improved results, consider linking technology such as LED light therapy or microhydrabrasion with each treatment, offering instant glow, skin and wrinkle smoothing, and deep cleansing when combined with AHA and BHA solutions.

Combination therapies like needling plus peels or RF needling alongside microhydrabrasion can provide outstanding benefits, with no downtime and a glowing complexion in just minutes –perfect for those looking for luxury rejuvenation without lengthy wait times.

Mental wellbeing

For the past three years, mental wellbeing has been an important focus and is still one of our highest priorities today. It’s about making sure that the way we feel (emotional well-being) and how we function (relationships and purpose) is healthy, helping us to better cope with life. How does mental health affect your business? Keep up the ‘healthy body, healthy mind’ mantra as physical wellness can significantly contribute to improved brain function. Consider offering special upgrades, such as custom oils paired with relaxing sounds, during massage treatments. This is a great way to incorporate some extra care into your services, while highlighting the amazing physical and mental benefits.

Conclusion

From start-ups to destination spas and even established family-owned salons and spas – you all have the common goal of growth and success. All of these potential success stories start with recognising market trends at the right time and adapting these strategies for implementation into your business.

By adjusting your business model this year to align with what’s trending, you’ll be able to capitalise on more opportunities that can raise your business to double digit growth and even more expansion through amplification.

Don’t miss out on these great opportunities – the potential of your future success is just around the corner. Now is the perfect time to start assessing what trends could benefit your own organisation and put plans into action that will drive currency in 2023 and beyond. So, what are you waiting for? Get ahead of the curve now.

Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder and owner of The Spa Consultants and a co-founder of The Spa Professionals Guild. Email marisa@spaprofessionalsguild.com

HORMONE EATING has also BECOME POPULAR recently – BECOMING EDUCATED around THIS TOPIC will help you PROVIDE YOUR CUSTOMERS with guidance THROUGHOUT THEIR JOURNEY towards better PHYSICAL HEALTH.

To make REAL STRIDES towards a more SUSTAINABLE BUSINESS PRACTICE, it is essential to TAKE ACTION and demonstrate YOUR COMMITMENT.

It’s Showtime!

The Professional Beauty Cape Town Expo takes place on Sunday, 5 March at the CTICC 2 and will feature a number of exhibitors showcasing their latest wares in beauty, spa, nails and aesthetics. Here we look at just some of the brands

Bio Sculpture

Bio Sculpture offers unique training courses, equipping you with the information you need and professional products, allowing you to take your business to the next level. Visit us to find out more about making Bio Sculpture part of your future.

BROWGAZZM

The art of eyebrow microblading. Everything your need for feather stroke, powder or ombre eyebrows.

Calgel

Calgel is the original professional soft-gel system manufactured in South-Africa since 1981.

Known for being ultra-gentle to the natural nail, Calgel now also incorporates intelligent Japanese technology to ensure exceptional quality. The Calgel philosophy is to offer products that are nondamaging, gentle and long lasting.

Depileve

A superior quality, world renowned comfort waxing system.

Hands Down

Hands Down is South Africa’s biggest supplier to the professional hair and beauty industry with over 13, 00 products to choose from. You can get everything you need for your business under one roof.

I Am Me Skincare

At our stand your will find the new South African skincare brand that is sweeping the nation: I Am Me. This brand unequivocally supports skincare professionals, because in

their care, the clients’ skin is in good hands.

Investing in business owners and therapists that use and promote I Am Me products is undeniably the most sustainable way this team knows how to make a tangible difference in the lives of these professionals.

The I Am Me range boasts peeling systems, serums and skincare essentials, utilising scientifically proven, key ingredients sourced from established and renowned laboratories across Europe, all

Image:fivepointsix/stock.adobe.com

masterfully combined with new generation actives. Free from parabens, mineral oils and phthalates, products are never tested on animals and are vegan friendly. I Am Me uses only reputable suppliers of ingredients that are safely sourced and can be traced to the origin. Our entire product manufacturing process boasts an ISO 22716 certification.

The production chain is overseen and proudly made in South Africa.

LASHGAZZM

From the most natural to the most dramatic lash extension offering.

Lays Beauty

Lays Beauty products has been around since 2004 and feedback received from our clients is testimony to the fact that our product does what it claims to do.

Backed by a pharmaceutical

company, you can rest assured that Lays Beauty products are of the highest quality, scientifically formulated, most affordable and manufactured according to cGMP standards.

Nailz

Our premium line of nail polishes and treatments help you achieve stunning, long-lasting nails with our luxury line of gel polishes, nail treatments and tools.

NuSpa

Indulge in the ultimate spa experience with our premium line of skincare and body care products. Relax, rejuvenate and revitalize.

Radiant Healthcare

Radiant Healthcare have been a market leader in the Medical Aesthetic industry ever since their inception in 2004. They strive to supply systems and products that are suitable to all skin types, budgets and needs while remaining on the forefront of technological advancements.

RefectoCil

As the global market leader, RefectoCil® is synonymous with brow & lash tinting products that have been sold worldwide for over 90 years in more than 70 countries. Characterised by professional quality, the diverse product range is all you need for any lash & brow service.

Spa Life

Achieve a spa-worthy glow with our luxury line of skincare and body care products. Experience the ultimate in relaxation and rejuvenation.

Spa Therapy

Spa Therapy offers the ultimate aromatic spa experience. The range includes a unique selection of signature plant-based botanical synergies blended with high-quality natural seed oils that promise to take your clients on a journey of wellbeing where time stands still. Customize the spa experience with our range of body conditioning items that will ensure mind, body and soul rejuvenation. Spa Therapy allows clients to continue their spa experience at home with a selection of bespoke Body and Face TakeHome Journeys.

Zena Cosmetics South Africa

Zena Cosmetics specializes in professional, pharmaceutical grade skincare products, with a focus on offering superior quality and result-driven formulations. At the exhibition, we will be showcasing our best-selling skincare lines, including our popular all-in-one anti-ageing, acne-buster and pigmentationfighting Zena Algae Peel. We will have our expert trainer on hand to give skincare consultations and advice, so visitors can enjoy a first-hand experience with the Zena Cosmetics-SA team. We look forward to seeing you there!

Open to suggestions

time ever. The customer experience is no longer confined to conventional beauty and grooming, with a rise in treatments that promote emotional well-being. Looking and feeling good on the inside as well as outside is fast becoming a priority for the day spa user, and people are willing to pay for expertise.

Sharing of knowledge

Hammering home the sharing of knowledge through up-skilling a thorough consultation technique is something I will never stop championing. Sometimes it’s really important to cut the conventional small talk and keep strictly on message – showcasing our knowledge and expertise and selling the features and benefits in the way our tried and tested brands showcase their products.

However, the key is using the consultation time to encourage the quick wins – the upsells that fill the white space in our columns and turn dead time into turnover. Learning what treatments naturally dovetail as these upsells is key. Maximising the captive audience that is a client wanting knowledge, advice and solutions about their concerns is not just a lucrative win for the therapist and salon, but for the client too.

hat has become evident at my own Metrospa is that while the client is in the treatment room, they are far more amenable to therapists prescribing salon services and products.

Thus, the clever therapist who advises, prescribes and recommends by carrying out a detailed pre- and post- treatment consultation is uniquely placed to win the trust and confidence of their client and that will pay dividends, now more than ever.

It’s always good to re-visit customer behaviour and analyse how we can capitalise on consumer trends. Likewise, it’s great to be able to validate the trends you’ve noticed in client spend and be assured that others are experiencing the same. To me and others I have spoken to, it has become clear that although clients are still coming into the salon less often than pre-Covid, when they do visit, they are generally spending a bit more and are far more open to trying alternative, holistic treatments and services, sometimes for the first

Here are some Metrospa examples of service swaps.

• B row shape/tint upsell to add on lash tint

• Regular mani/pedi – upsell to gel mani/pedi

• Facial – upsell to include eye treatment

• B ikini wax – upsell to a pre-holiday bundle offer adding underarms, half leg, etc.

• Massage – cross-promote Reiki or specialist treatments

There are some services that clients can be naturally apprehensive about so offering free consultation mornings are a good way to encourage uptake of these.

I’m a big fan of complimentary taster sessions for people to experience the treatment without commitment as a starter. These entry level experiences often lead to regular repeat bookings and purchases so it’s very often a worthwhile exercise. It’s a bit like holding an open day when you’re selling a house.

The ‘try before you buy’ concept needs to become a familiar mantra in our treatment rooms, after all it’s just like test driving a car.

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London and a beauty ambassador for the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF).

Salon owner Hellen Ward focuses on the power of the consult during a treatment and the importance of upselling

Image from Shutterstock

The CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE is NO LONGER CONFINED to CONVENTIONAL BEAUTY AND GROOMING, with a rise in treatments that promote EMOTIONAL WELL-BEING.

Talking to… Feroza Fakir

speaks to

treatments for which they are unqualified. So, I always encourage them to study further as there are additional courses available to support them. However, the vicious circle of costs for further training play an adverse role in this scenario.

You have been in the industry for over 40 years – what changes have you experienced since you started out?

South Africa’s Apartheid system created educational inequalities. In 1979, when a close friend of mine and I decided to pursue our career in beauty, we were unable to attend the school of our choice. A school in Hillbrow, owned by a French lady called Rene Lacey, offered a one year Diploma Course in Beauty Culture. The level descriptive was very different in those days. Our Diploma on completion listed the following subjects – Anatomy & Physiology, Facials, Body Therapy, Manicures, Pedicures, Nail Technology, Waxing Hot / Cold, Brow Shaping, Tweezing, Tinting Individual Lashes, Facial & Body Massage, Make-up and Advanced Make-up.

What are the major problems in the industry today, apart from the poor economy and load shedding?

A big challenge is that unqualified therapists, and therapists who fake qualifications, are providing services to the unsuspecting public. Some of them are using highly technical devices and think that learning on YouTube is okay. This problem is compounded by these devices being freely available for purchase online. Official regulations governing such devices would definitely help.

My personal opinion is that the industry needs a higher level of regulation to encourage recognised skills and competence. I have also come across many therapists who have done short courses and are now performing aesthetic

Our difficulties were many. The multiple segregation laws for transport and social mingling made our lives difficult, as the beauty industry is one which thrives on social interaction for the development of one’s learning by bouncing off ideas and techniques between various industry sectors. Without the ability to freely travel and mingle within certain circles, these developments were stunted and limited.

Once we completed our beauty course, we wanted to pursue further studies and found a private multiracial college in the Johannesburg CBD, owned by Aleit Pretorius. He incorporated a higher level of education as he bought in state-of-the-art equipment for both facial and body therapy. This included oligo dermie, interferential, high frequency, ozone therapy, hydrotherapy, colour therapy, massage therapy, aromatherapy, reflexology, infrared sauna, electrolysis, body wraps for slimming, cellulite treatments, waxing, sugaring and advanced make-up products.

Joanna Sterkowicz

industry veteran and trailblazer, Feroza Fakir, about challenges facing the beauty sector and how it has evolved over the decades

In 1986 I partnered with Aleit Pretorius to start Lenasia’s Le Beaute School and then in 1996, I owned my own salon in Lenasia called Electrolysis and Beauty Clinique. I employed five therapists and it was very successful. My specialties were electrolysis and facials.

You have long been passionate about skills development – what is your personal history in this regard?

I opened a school called Lenasia Academy of Health & Skin Care in 1998. In the same year, I was appointed by the HCSITB (Hairdressing Cosmetology & Beauty Industry Training Board) to write a new syllabus for electrolysis and machinery. I also became an accredited examiner for them and did accreditation for all the FET (Further Education Training Institutions) for Beauty. The NQF (National Qualifications Framework) was then established in South Africa with the development of SAQA (South African Qualifications Authority) and I was subsequently nominated to serve on the Standard Generating Body for Hairdressing Cosmetology & Beauty under NSBS (National Standards Body) 11 by SAQA.

my knowledge as it gives me so much fulfilment. I have been honoured at many levels in our industry and community (such as being featured in Panache Publication’s WOW Top 50 Inspiring Icons) and I thank those who trust and believe in me. My aim is to continue to serve with humility where I am needed.

Sharing or spreading knowledge is part of contributing positively to humanity in Islam and is considered a charity that people contribute to. I initiated the WorldSkills Competition with the Services SETA for the Beauty Sector, so that graduate therapists could compete internationally. I am still involved in project managing the Beauty WorldSkills Competition in South Africa and am the Deputy National Expert.

Why did South Africa introduce the NQF system?

The objectives of the NQF are to: create a single integrated national framework for learning achievements; facilitate access to, and mobility and progression within, education, training and career paths; enhance the quality of education and training; and accelerate the redress of past unfair discrimination in education.

By 2001, the NQF was under review, and after that, the 1995 SAQA law was replaced by the National Qualifications Framework Act (No. 67 of 2008). SAQA is a statutory body that is regulated in terms of the NQF Act No. 67 of 2008 [2]. It is made up of 29 members appointed by the Minister of Education in consultation with the Minister of Labour. As such, SAQA is mandated by legislation to oversee the development and implementation of the NQF [3].

You have been actively involved in industry organisations – please elaborate.

In 1996 I was nominated for SABA (South African Beauty Association) and started as a secretary for this organisation.

Two years later I was nominated to serve on the Industry Training Board for Hairdressing Cosmetology & Beauty, where I represented the Beauty Industry.

It was in 1998 that the dire need to improve skills development resulted in parliament ratifying the Skills Development Act, which defined a new Sector Training and Education Authority (SETA) system. The plan was to develop a series of sector skills plans within a clearly defined framework of the National Skills Development Strategy. In March 2000, the then Minister of Labour, Membathisi Mdladlana, formerly established 23 SETAs, each with its own clearly defined sector and sub-sectors. When the NQF & SETAS were established, I was nominated to many boards and committees and I had to choose between my business and skills development. This is when I ventured into the skills development arena. I have often been asked by industry stakeholders why do I do what I do. Everyone has a purpose and mine has always been to serve the industry. My passion is to share

Our industry was under threat in 1997 as part of the industry applied to go with the Allied Health Association. However, SABA was not in favour of registration with this body. I attended many meetings to object. In 1998. I was nominated as the President of SABA. In the same year I started negotiations with SAAHSP (South African Association of Health & Skincare Professionals), which was then under the leadership of Philippa Crichton. In 2003 SAAHSP and SABA amalgamated under my and Philippa’s leadership. With lots of engagement, we decided to have one board in South Africa.

For seven years I was also the president of BHSEA (Beauty, Health & Skincare Employers Association), registered with the DOL (Department of Labour).

In addition, I was involved in mapping standards for the IPSN (International Professional Standards Network) for Beauty with different countries.

Preparing for WorldSkills

At WorldSkills 2022 – Chazney Jacobs, Feroza Fakir and Lerina Bosch

Sustainability in action - Part 2

he Six Senses Group has become synonymous with sustainability. For the over 40 spas under its wing, green is simply business as usual. And that is how it should be. Sustainability should be as mainstream to spas as providing a personal care service.

In fact, the ultimate success for Six Senses is the ability to make sustainability sumptuous and travel, purposeful. They weave environmentally friendly and socially responsible into gorgeous hideaways with no waste, toxins and plastic, but with an abundance of spirituality, celebration and joy.

Six Senses achieves its objectives through

very specific values. One of them is its approach to building spaces, where nature dictates design and natural building materials. Furthermore, passive heating and cooling strategies create spaces that are vibrant and alive. There are also strong measures in place to protect habitats on land and in the water and consequently, the spa group’s business objectives include plastic free policies, electric transport and biodegradable cleaning products.

Staff wellbeing

The Six Senses Group recognises that its care for guests would be meaningless if it did not first care for its own people and the families and communities they are part of in each location.

Giving credence to this policy, indigenous designs from local architects and artisans are ever present; food comes

In the second of our series of articles on what leading spas around the world are doing in terms of sustainable practices, GreenSpa Africa’s Charne le Roux focuses on the Six Senses Hotels Resorts Spas Group

The ULTIMATE SUCCESS for SIX SENSES is the ability to MAKE SUSTAINABILITY sumptuous AND TRAVEL, PURPOSEFUL.

Six Senses Laamu Maldives

from local farmers and fishermen; and Six Senses’ knowledge of the best fishing holes, diving spots and therapeutic products and practices is founded on local relationships.

Green full circle

One of the many practices that I think brings green full circle at Six Senses (and is achievable for any spa) includes the establishment of an organic garden at all the properties. These gardens provide each resort’s kitchen with fresh herbs, vegetables and fruits.

The gardens also produce a range of ingredients for the spas, as well as for the Alchemy Bars, which provide signature immersive experiences and are distinctively Six Senses. Each Alchemy Bar is a unique space dedicated to learning and fun, where spa therapists guide guests through a variety of natural and from-the-garden personal care ingredients. Guests are encouraged to feel the textures and smell the aromas of these ingredients and then create their own scrubs, hair or face masks and herbal poultices or steam bundles. What a marvellous way to engage guests with sustainability in action!

Earth Labs

Six Senses also created Earth Labs at its properties, with a slightly different sustainability focus. Each serves as a place dedicated to engagement and innovation, where Six Senses communicates current work projects at each resort, such as marine conservation, forestry or farming initiatives, harnessing renewable energy from solar or biomass, and bottling drinking water.

Earth Lab’s seed bank also makes it easy for guests to grow organic produce back home by providing an unconventional but meaningful seed souvenir.

Recently, Six Senses established a library of Zero Waste DIY tutorials, such as making your own toothpaste, which anyone can access, on the group’s YouTube channel.

It is not just this group’s philosophy of sharing that is evident in abundance. Each resort’s consumption data for water, energy and waste is available at each Earth Lab and open to scrutiny by guests, employees and the visiting public. It is, after all, only possible to manage one’s sustainability performance against the backdrop of a process of measurement.

Recognition

Six Senses’ success in getting sustainability right, making sure that it keeps track of its performance and being transparent about both its successes and failures, have culminated in the many sustainability awards that it has achieved. This includes the recent Travel + Leisure’s Global Vision Awards, which recognise companies who proactively protect communities and environments and inspire industry colleagues and travellers to do their part.

OUR WAY of referring to our EMPLOYEES AS HOSTS and TREATING THEM AS PARTNERS IMPACTS POSITIVELY on their dedication to all the SUSTAINABILITY PROJECTS. Our hosts are the GLUE THAT BIND GUESTS to our RESORTS, in an emotionally MEANINGFUL WAY.

Six Senses Fort Barwara India

Six Senses Shaharut Israel

Q&A with Kent Richards

Kent Richards is the Corporate Operations Director (Spa & Wellness) of the Six Senses Group and I met up with him at Professional Beauty’s World Spa Convention in Johannesburg, last August. Richards’ career in the wellness industry spans over 30 years, starting out with a focus on the fitness side of living a vital life. He started his career in the spa industry about 10 years ago and moved to Six Senses after an inspiring discussion with CEO Neil Jacobs. I asked him the following questions.

How does Six Senses maintain a high level of sustainability awareness and action amongst its staff?

KR: I would ascribe much of the group’s success to our philosophy of not telling people what to do, but rather to let them do what they do best. There is an intrinsically close bond between people and nature.

Six Senses also creates an environment where fun concepts are designed around the integration of nature into wellness and it was from this that conscious sustainability actions followed.

Our way of referring to our employees as hosts and treating them as partners impacts positively on their dedication to all the sustainability projects. Our hosts are the glue that bind guests to our resorts, in an emotionally meaningful way.

Are there any challenges that you had to overcome in following your green philosophy?

The Six Senses group has expanded very quickly in diverse global destinations and this required a different way of thinking to maintain its core philosophy of interconnectedness. A decision was made to use senior management as cultural ambassadors for the group.

Much of my work this year has been to travel to all the group properties to help instil and maintain a unified culture. Another rewarding practice was to appoint local sustainability advisors and directors for every property. This allowed for the individual characteristics of the community and environment to reflect authentically at each location. The success of this practice has become evident from the unique characteristic of each Earth Lab.

Are there specific Six Senses green successes from which other spas can benefit?

Some of the successes include the business strategy of encouraging each property to adapt a circular economy. For example, in some properties goats and chickens are used to maintain/ inhibit plant growth, to fertilise and to provide food to guests and hosts alike. The organic gardens are another form of an in-house circular economy.

Are there any initiatives that will enjoy special attention this year?

One of the important objectives of Six Senses is to eradicate plastic consumption altogether. Initially this focused on the exclusion of single use plastic items, but this was just a tip of a very big iceberg. A comprehensive plastic reduction strategy now involves the elimination of all plastic. This is an extensive exercise as plastic is used in building materials, appliances, furniture and fixtures and electronic equipment. Six Senses is participating in the Global Tourism Plastics Initiative and kicked off with a detailed due diligence report that guides the way forward.

Then there is Six Senses’ newest sustainability masterpiece, the net positive Svart resort in Norway. This project will raise awareness of the possibilities of regenerative travel and set a new standard in carbonneutral hospitality. It combines a futuristic design and technological innovation with earthy, organic materials that use the least embedded energy. The spa is in fragile and pristine glacial surroundings and so the development parameters are uncompromising – both to preserve and enhance the local environment and communities. Six Senses Svart is set to open in 2024 and I can’t wait.

Look out for Part III of the ‘Sustainability in action’ series of articles in the March 2023 issue of Professional Beauty, focusing on Lefay Resorts.

As turnkey sustainability practitioner, Charné le Roux advocates and influences sustainability in the wellness industry. Her work includes creating the Sustainable Spa Practitioner Course, GreenSpa Guide and GreenSpa Calculator.

Email charne@greenspa.africa

EACH RESORT’S consumption DATA FOR WATER, ENERGY AND WASTE is AVAILABLE at each EARTH LAB and open to scrutiny by GUESTS, EMPLOYEES and the VISITING PUBLIC.

For the contour

The Esse Eye Contour Cream (15ml) is described by the brand as ‘a multi-tasking superstar’. This is because it addresses the most common concerns around the eyes such as crow’s feet, puffiness and dark circles.

Bellis extract reduces the melanin that causes dark circles and the delicate network of tissue around your eyes is strengthened by Albizia and Darutoside extracts. Independent testing shows that it reduces wrinkle depth by 14% in 28 days.

Targeted solutions for the eyes, neck and bust

Dual purpose

Six Skincare offers a Lifting Eye & Neck Cream, which is a moisturiser that is targeted to treat the most prominent signs of ageing. This delectable cream locks in moisture, smooths contours and reduces signs of fatigue and puffiness. The cream can be applied morning and evening to relieve skin tension that contributes to the formation of expression lines and wrinkles.

It also protects the skin from both environmental and free-radical damage. Six Skincare describes this product as ‘an absolute must for anyone who wants to slow down the ageing process’.

Also from Six, the Glycolic Eye & Lip Exfoliator is a game changer for a targeted result, as it is formulated with glycolic acid – the holy grail for a healthy exfoliation.

It’s no secret that the eye area needs more specialised treatment due to the delicate nature of the skin. This is also the case with the neck and bust, which are often neglected. Here we look at some of the leading products designed for these areas

Image from Shutterstock

First line of defense

The I Am Me Time Defense Eye Cream is packed with a powerful combination of active ingredients to rejuvenate and diminish fine lines, leaving the eye area visibly improved. This product can be used morning and evening and contains all the skin needs in order to optimise its function.

Active ingredients include: sodium hyaluronate to hydrate; green tea leaf extract to reduce oxidative stress; gluconolactone to increase cell turnover; hydrolysed peptides to plump out fine lines and wrinkles; and caffeine to reduce puffiness.

‘Invisible bra’

The Neck & Bust Firming Creme from Hannon is a nourishing anti-ageing crème specifically developed to help improve firmness and to support the contours of the female neck, bust and cleavage areas. This product has been developed with a bouquet of antiageing and firming ingredients, which will assist in supporting the skin by acting like an ‘invisible bra’. It will also help to restore the skin’s natural moisture and glamorous radiance.

Active ingredients include shea butter (moisturising, nourishing, antiinflammatory); olive oil (anti-ageing, anti-oxidant);

glycerine (assists in retention of moisture in the skin, assists in cell regeneration, moisturizing);

phytelene complex

EGX772 (anti-ageing complex based on marine actives that assist in tightening and firming); and

Biosil Basics SMC (skin moisture complex to increase moisture balance and retention in the skin).

Intense complex

The eye area is illuminated and nourished with Saloncare’s Advanced Eye Cream. An intense complex of Argirilene, Eyeseryl and marine collagen effectively reduces lines and wrinkles, while revitalising tired eyes. As a bonus, this product can also be applied to the upper lip.

Saloncare Collagen Cream

Superior is a luxurious light textured moisturiser with marine collagen for plumping up and visibly improving the complexion. It transforms dull and crepey skin on the face, neck and décolleté to radiant, firmer skin for all genders.

The impressive results delivered for facial and body treatments in the salon/spa are complemented by the kudos this product has earned for years in homecare regimes.

Eye make-up remover

From pHformula, the new E.Y.E. balm cleanse launches in South Africa in March 2023. This powerful make-up remover balm transforms into a luxurious oil to remove make-up, while leaving skin feeling nourished. Formulated with vitamin E and murumuru butter makes it gentle and nourishing yet powerful enough to remove stubborn make-up. The travel-friendly packaging makes this make-up removing balm convenient to have in your makeup bag for quick use anywhere.

Aslo from pHformula, the E.Y.E. recovery is a powerful but gentle formulation containing a groundbreaking ingredient named bakuchiol, a plant extract that has proven to work similarly to retinol to

Chest wrinkle casualties

The skin on the chest is thinner and prone to sun exposure, making it susceptible to signs of ageing.

Wrinkles Schminkles Chest

Smoothing Patches treats the décolletage for a few hours during the day, or whilst you sleep, using a 100% medical silicone grade patch that covers the central chest area.

It delivers a smooth décolletage after the very first use by preventing wrinkling, while hydrating, healing and stimulating collagen overtime.

For ideal results, use in conjunction with Wrinkles Schminkles Morning After Glow Serum during the day.

decrease the signs of ageing without skin irritation.

Along with Bakuchiol, the formulation of E.Y.E. recovery consists of a unique peptide complex, chrysinimide and arginine, which assists in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as dark circles and puffiness. It is also ideal for use under the brow bone for an immediate lifting and tightening effect.

Wide choice

DermaFix has a range of eye creams to suit all stages of ageing and all eye care concerns. For instance, the Eyeluronic Gel uses sodium hyaluronate to increase collagen production and improve the texture of the eye area, whilst deeply hydrating and plumping fine lines and wrinkles. This product is ideal for even the most sensitive skin and clients in the early stages of ageing.

The brand also offers DermaFix CircleLight, which boasts 24% peptides to fight bags under the eyes as well as increase peripheral circulation, even out the eye contour, and offer a decongestant effect.

DermaFix Corrective Eye Complex is a favourite amongst clients as it stimulates epidermal regeneration using stem cell technology and can be used as a quick filler for fine lines around the eyes or upper lip. With additional benefits to periocular circulation as well as fibroblast proliferation, this little bottle really packs a punch.

Lastly, DermaFix Ceramide Eye is a revolutionary corrective aiding in lifting the skin’s contours, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, improving skin elasticity, repairing the skin’s natural lipid barrier and offering the unsurpassed benefits of four different age-defying Ceramides.

For the neck and décolleté, DermaFix offers DermaFix SND Corrector (the acronym stands for ‘Stretch Marks, Neck and Décolleté’). This product has been packaged in a larger container than other correctives in this anti-ageing category as it is intended for use over all the most delicate areas of the body showing signs of ageing and UV damage.

Regular use of DermaFix SND Corrector will show results such as collagen and elastin upregulation, stretch mark improvement, a neck lifting effect, and revitalised décolleté and skin colour correction in as little as 28 days. These results can be credited to the advanced formulation utilising Vitamin A Propionate, Siegesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Hydrolyzed Carob Seed and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Complex.

Silky serum

The Anesi 3C Vitamin Glow Eye Bright Serum is a silky, fragrancefree eye serum that brightens the skin and fights the signs of ageing.

Suitable for all skin types to revive tired eyes, while combatting the signs of ageing by reducing the appearance of wrinkles, it helps to lift the upper eyelid area, and reduce puffiness and dark circles. This silky serum with orchid stem cells, vitamin C and peptides combine to repair and protect the delicate eye contour and boost Type 1 Collagen synthesis for a noticeably younger appearance. The skin around the eye area will appear smoother and more refined, and bags under the eyes are reduced.

Velvet texture

TheraVine’s Sculpting Neck Volumator, a velvety textured neck, décolleté and bust treatment lotion with cutting-edge, advanced dual-action plant stem cell technology, combined with a highly specialised tetra-peptide, actively helps improve the appearance of the skin tone, density, strength and firmness.

The addition of Uplevity, an excellent new firming peptide, to this weightless lotion helps to strengthen and fortify skin by stimulating the most abundant collagens in the skin. Skin in this area therefore shows improvement in volume, while the firming effect particularly helps skin around the jaw line to appear more sculpted.

High percentages of hyaluronic acid further prevent moisture loss and ensure skin remains supple and comfortable.

Image from Shutterstock

concept unpacked Slow Beauty

t’s quite evident that the economic situation is pushing everyone to be more conscious of what they are consuming.

With post-pandemic ‘revenge spending’ on the rise, South Africans splurged more on beauty and personal care products in 2022 than they did in the five years prior. On average, people paid over R1,000 across the categories of cosmetics, fragrances, personal care and skincare, and this upward spending trend is set to continue in the coming years.

South Africans have unfortunately fallen prey to the cult of consumerism. One of the areas where this is most evident is in the beauty sector, with local women typically owning 19 cosmetic products but only using seven.

There are parallels between the mainstream beauty industry and fast fashion, namely accelerated mass production of items which ultimately end up in landfills. In contrast, products made using the slow beauty philosophy are more artisanal since they are produced in small batches using seasonal, sustainably sourced ingredients that are not only powerful but multifunctional too. Plus, they are free from the cheap, synthetic fillers used by their mainstream counterparts, which tend to dilute the potency of the products and deliver mediocre results.”

While clean beauty has garnered quite a following over the past few years, slow beauty takes the concept one step further. Not only are slow beauty products chemical-free and made using natural ingredients, with

packaging developed from recycled or biodegradable materials, the brands behind them also work exclusively with ethical suppliers who treat their employees and the environment with respect.

The slow beauty ethos also aims to tackle the psychology of consumerism. Nowadays, most people want a quick fix for their beauty concerns which is what drives them to buy, buy, buy. Slow beauty reminds them that these issues were created over time, so they need to be treated over time. Supplements form a key component of the slow beauty movement since they address these from the inside out for long-term results.

At the same time, I think that consumers are becoming increasingly overwhelmed by the choice of products that are now available to them, especially with different beauty brands trying to target the same audiences with products comprised of similar ingredients. Now is the time for consumers to be more discerning about not only what they put on their bodies but into them as well.

Adopting the slow beauty philosophy starts by taking a step back to identify the beauty concern you’d like to treat, which products offer the right combination of ingredients to address this and how to sustainably dispose of all the products you’ve already accumulated which are not doing you, your skin or the environment any good. At the end of the day, quality should always win over quantity.

Toni Carroll is the founder of nutricosmetic brand My Beauty Luv. Key ingredients are sourced from reputable, industry leaders with claims backed by clinical trials and consumer proven results.

Email toni@mybeautyluv.com

Image from Shutterstock

The growing global movement of slow beauty could potentially offer an escape from consumerism’s clutches, especially in light of the cost-of-living crisis, writes Toni Carroll of My Beauty Luv

Media personality/actress Liza Koshy led the way in terms of slicked back styles, namely a neatly pulled back top knot and gelled, jagged bangs, swept to the side.

Singer and Oscar-winning actress Jennifer Hudson sported a ponytail so high on her head that her hair fell becomingly into a chin-length bob around her face, with gelled edges.

Nominated for ‘George & Tammy’, Jessica Chastain’s red hair was pulled back from her face and folded into a classic Old Hollywood-style bun that skimmed the neckline.

Golden Globes hair

The normally blonde Kaley Cuoco, nominated for ‘The Flight Attendant’, debuted a chocolate brown colour, styled into a towering updo with a face framing parted fringe.

Sporting long blonde hair, nominee Elizabeth Debicki (‘The Crown’) wore her locks in a more tousled and casual style.

‘The Queen’s Gambit’ star, Anya Taylor Joy, is the reigning queen of dead straight, extra long, ice blonde hair. In this instance, one side was secured behind the ear by means of a twist.

For winner, Julia Garner (‘Ozark’), stylist Bobby Eliot created a style reminiscent of iconic 1960s model, Twiggy, with a short blonde crop and long, side-swept bangs.

Winner Angela Bassett (‘Black Panther: Wakanda Forever’) looked stunning with a side-parted, fringe-less bob styled into 1940s waves.

Nominee Viola Davis (‘The Woman King’) rocked a chin-length layered Afro.

Report by Joanna Sterkowicz and Natasha Chisese

- all the top styles

It was Red Carpet Central at the recent Golden Globe Awards in Hollywood

Liza Koshy @lizakoshy

Kaley Couco @kaleycuoco

Julia Garner @bobbyeliot

Jennifer Hudson @iamjhud

Elizabeth Debicki @mararoszak

Angela Bassett @im.angelabassett

Jessica Chastain @renatocampora

Anya Taylor Joy @anyataylorjoy

Viola Davis @violadavis

Beauty aesthetic& trends 2023

orking in the aesthetic industry whatever role you play, it is essential to keep up with changes in order to succeed in this fast-paced world. This is vital to maintain a sense of relevance with your clientele and also to stay ahead of them. Here we focus on some of the exciting new current developments in the industry and why they are making an impact.

Introducing a new superhero

Look out for new active ingredient Blue Tansy in 2023. Those who have practiced aromatherapy will be well aware of the calming properties of this ingredient and aestheticians in the know will praise its healing properties. It is a very rare ingredient so pure Blue Tansy does not come cheap.

This essential oil has anti-inflammatory calming properties and has even been used by oncologists to treat patients suffering from skin burns and irritation after radiation treatments.

It is helpful in clearing congested skin and calming irritation, as well as reducing redness, and is therefore perfect for acne-prone and sensitive complexions. With its skin-healing effects, it helps to repair the skin’s natural barrier and even reduces damage from environmental pollutants and UV rays. These factors make Blue Tansy a great additional ingredient for anti-ageing and stressed out skin.

Keep your barrier up

Nothing beats a heathy glow and as we know this starts with a healthy skin barrier, as this is the main component that determines how healthy or unhealthy the skin looks. If your barrier is healthy, your skin will maintain more water which will keep your skin firm, hydrated and smooth. A healthy barrier also makes the skin less prone to skin irritation and sensitivity.

Skincare formulas and make-up are going to have many natural ingredients in them to protect the skin barrier and keep skins hydrated in 2023. We will see more serum based foundations and tinted sunscreens to protect the skin and also prevent photo ageing.

By protecting the skin’s natural moisture barrier, the risk of breakouts is also reduced and so are ageing and dry skin conditions.

The aesthetic world moves at the speed of light and, as with every year, there are continual updates and evolutions, writes aesthetician

Karen Ellithorne

Image from Shutterstock

SKIN BOOSTERS are a GOOD OPTION FOR PATIENTS who are struggling with DRY, DULL or TIRED-LOOKING SKIN, or exhibit early signs OF AGEING such as WRINKLES OR FINE LINES, or just want a BOOST IN THEIR SKIN to RESTORE ITS STATE OF HEALTH.

Protein anyone?

Peptides have been around since the early 2000s but are set to make a big return in anti-ageing formulations in 2023.

With their ability to strengthen and rebuild damaged skin, peptides are made from chains of amino acids and function like building blocks or protein, signalling to the skin to perform functions like collagen formation and wound healing. This means that they help to correct fine lines, dullness, redness and discolouration, making them great all-rounder skincare ingredients.

Peptides are an important part of an anti-ageing preparation as they are actually separated into three different groups depending on their mode of action in the formulation. They can be used as signal peptides, neurotransmitter-affecting peptides and carrier peptides.

Signal peptides are able to increase collagen synthesis, or alternatively prevent the breakdown of collagen by collagenase. The second group (i.e. neurotransmitter-affecting peptides) includes the peptides that are able to mimic the effect of botulinum neurotoxins, whereas carrier peptides act as delivery systems for essential trace elements required for enzymatic processes responsible for rejuvenation.

Currently there are more than 30 different peptides used in cosmetic preparations and there are many more in development.

Plump me up

Many of us have seen the benefits of skin boosters and will want to see our skincare benefits penetrate even deeper in 2023.

K-beauty (Korean beauty) brought us the Asian beauty standard of ‘glass skin’, with a porcelain-like, light texture that is devoid of impurities and spots. They are also famous for popularising skin boosters as a cosmeceutical injection designed for boosting collagen production and complementing the skin’s natural ability to self-repair.

Skin boosters are a hyaluronic acid injectable (think injectable moisturiser) that will deeply hydrate. This means great skin hydration and dewy, glowing skin.

Additional skin boosters have also entered the market that can be used treat the eyes area specifically. Not only can the treatment

assist with fine lines, wrinkles and crepiness, it can also help brighten dark circles.

Skin boosters are a good option for patients who are struggling with dry, dull or tired-looking skin, or exhibit early signs of ageing such as wrinkles or fine lines, or just want a boost in their skin to restore its state of health.

Each type of skin booster contains different primary ingredients that are suited for different skin goals. In general, all skin boosters contain hyaluronic acid (HLA) – the primary molecule in your tissue repair system – but they don’t all carry the same amount.

The benefits of skin boosters are enhanced tissue regeneration, balanced skin moisture barrier, increased collagen and elastin production and smoother, radiant skin texture.

Dual purpose dermal fillers

Dual purpose injectable fillers, designed not only to treat loss of volume but also enhance skin quality through collagen stimulation, will certainly continue to dominate the filler market in 2023.

This means that in addition to treating age-related volume loss, patients will benefit from improvements in skin quality and texture, such as crepiness and laxity.

The overall result is all-round rejuvenation for patients, with immediate results that are super long lasting. Since the launch of biostimulators in our market in late 2021, this sector of product has seen a dramatic increase in popularity.

Tweakments anyone?

Nasal rejuvenation continues to be a trend in aesthetics but not from the perspective of patients wanting to do major changes to their appearance, but rather to a more refined and subtle change that is not necessarily achieved with surgery but rather with filler and threads.

There has also been an increased interest in the chin area and recognition that a bit of increased chin projection can help balance a person’s profile drastically. The chin has long been an under-appreciated facial feature. A strong chin can assist in making the neck look longer and our submental angle look deeper. Filler injected into the chin can make a dramatic change to facial harmony.

A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa.

Email karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

There has also been an INCREASED INTEREST in the CHIN AREA and recognition that a bit of INCREASED CHIN PROJECTION can help BALANCE A PERSON’S PROFILE drastically.

Image from Shutterstock

Brow power

RefectoCil Oxidant

Cream blends easily with the brand’s desired tint colours and can be used with Blonde Brow to achieve the on-trend bleached brow effect. This cream uses a 3% 10 volume hydrogen peroxide formulation, as higher concentrations are not safe for use on lashes and brows and are not permitted by EU regulations.

082 5756 567

031 209 2548

In the market

Our round-up of new products and treatments

Clever cleansing

The I Am Me Cleansing Cream, created by spa consultant Mimmie Lancaster, is suitable for all skin types and offers effective gentle cleansing of the skin for daily use. It does not strip the skin and removes dead skin cells on the surface, thus stimulating cell regeneration in the lower layers. This cleanser contains aloe vera, cucumber extract and rosehip seed oil for hydration, with niacinamide to reduce enlarged pores and strengthen the skin.

083 327 5843

Skinovage Assortment relaunched

Babor has relaunched its Skinovage age-preventing assortment that works synergistically to preserve the health and youthfulness of skin by protecting it from oxidative damage and efficiently supporting the skin barrier before the first wrinkles appear. Extracts from Alpine rose is the main base ingredient of the range, with marine polysaccharide as its complement.

011 467 0110

Image from Shutterstock

Vital vitamin

The Neostrata 15%

Vitamin C + PHA

Serum is a clinically proven formula that gently exfoliates for brighter, more radiant skin in just one week. Unlike most vitamin C serums, this multiaction formula blends clinically proven antioxidants plus exfoliating polyhydroxy acid to help diminish visible skin discoloration and protect against external environmental aggressors.

011 635 0000

Real revamp

The Optiphi Facial Cleanser has undergone a revamp to include niancinamide (vitamin B5) and lipohydroxy acid to reduce breakouts, promote the production of collagen and encourage cell-by-cell exfoliation, thus boosting skin health and appearance. It is formulated at pH 5.5 so as to restore balance. Suitable also as a shaving medium and eye make-up remover, it includes salicylic acid and calms the skin during exfoliation.

012 667 6244

Textured product

From Lamelle Research Laboratories, the Correctives AHA Re-Texture Solution (available in a concentration of 5% AHA as well as 8% AHA) is an extremely effective yet very gentle way to shift dead, dry, superficial skin cells. Formulated for those with combination or oily skin, it reveals instantly smoother, brighter-looking, more evenly toned complexion. It also helps keep pores free of debris and excess oil.

011 465 2264

TLB develops skincare range

After 10 years of development, TLB (The Laser Beautique) has introduced its very first skincare range, which works both on the epidermis and the deep dermal layers. Founder Tzvia Hermann has successfully proven results of the range with TLB’s technology facials (i.e. ultrasound, RF, near IF, microneedling). With TLB Scientific Skincare, the skin barrier is strengthened and collagen and fibroblast production is stimulated. Clients’ skin undergoes ultrasoundscanning to show the ‘before and after’.

0861 850 851

FOOT

How to perform the perfect pedicure

ALL GLAMMED UP Nails from the red carpet

CUTICLE CENTRIC Oils & creams

s we ease ourselves into the New Year, while still trying desperately to get used to the debilitating dynamic of constant power cuts, it’s always good to brush up on technique. To this end, we have included a useful article on how to perform the perfect pedicure. We have also included an expert’s view on whether or not nail techs should be mixing gel-polish with acrylic liquid to access acrylic colours.

Being someone who loves colour, I always look forward to the Pantone Colour of the Year announcement and in 2023’s case it’s the vivid and pretty, Viva Magenta. It’s amazing how Pantone’s chosen shade for each year so strongly influences fashion, design and of course, nails. But then Pantone is the global colour authority, so hardly surprising.

In this issue you will find a focus on one of the mainstays of nail treatments and salon retail – cuticle oils and creams, which are obviously essential for nail care.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Photo from Shutterstock

Nail looks from the PCAs red carpet

Long, pale talons and short red nails were two of the most prominent looks at the recent People’s Choice Awards (PCAs) in Santa Monica, California.

One star’s nail set that really stood out was that of hip hop star and body diversity advocate, Lizzo, who was honoured with the People’s Champion Award. Lizzo’s ultra-long, stiletto shaped nails were designed by celeb stylist, Eri Ishizu, who created an impressive, intricate alternative French ombre, with hints of gold chrome and sparkly embellishments.

Ishizu also did nails for E! red carpet host and trans actress, Laverne Cox. This was a set of glass nails in almond shape with a stripe of pretty crystals running down centre of each nail.

Real estate agent Mary Fitzgerald of ‘Selling Sunset’ wore short, silver chrome nails to match her somewhat skimpy sparkly silver dress, while former ‘Baywatch’ star, Carmen Elektra, rocked a longish, almond French manicure.

Supermodel and TV host, Heidi Klum, sported super-long talons in a pale hue.

Winner of the Country Artist Award, Carrie Underwood, inexplicably chose red nails that seemed at odds with her intricately beaded trouser suit.

Sara Michelle Gellar of ‘Buffy the Vampire Slayer’ fame also went for short red nails to successfully offset her black velvet and pearl dress. Another star in the short red nails league was Sarah Hyland of ‘Modern Family’ fame.

On the subject of short nails, there were quite a few white versions to be seen, most notably on actress and ‘Real Housewives of Beverley Hills’ star, Kyle Richards. This look was also chosen by her co-star, Erika Jayne, whose optical illusion monochrome gown made one blink. ‘Selling Sunset’s’ Heather Rae El Moussa was another to go the short white nails route.

New SA distributor for Young Nails

California-based professional nail brand Young Nails Inc. has appointed YNZA Distributors as its new distributor for South Africa.

Says Habib Salo, CEO of Young Nails Inc., “While we are aware that this is a big change that affects everyone, with this transition to YNZA, we expect the product stock situation

to improve substantially very soon.

“We apologise for any inconvenience this change in distributorship may have caused but we are extremely excited and confident about a bright future for Young Nails South Africa. Furthermore, we appreciate our clients’ continued support during this transition.”

Sarah Michelle Gellar @sarahmgellar Kyle Richards @kylerichards18

Heidi Klum @heidiklum Laverne Cox @erierinailz

Lizzo @erierinailz

Sarah Hyland @sarahhyland

Carrie Underwood @peopleschoice

Standout nails at the Golden Globes

Regarded as the second most important awards event in Hollywood (the first being the Oscars), the 80th annual Golden Globe Awards ran on 19 January at the Beverly Hilton in California.

As is the case with red carpet events these days, there was as much focus on nails as there was on fashion, hair and make-up. Singer/actress and Golden Globe nominee, Selena Gomez, wore actual Swarovski Crystal ‘pixie dust’ on her medium length stiletto shaped nude nails, which were by designed celebrity ‘man-icurist’, Tom Bachik. On his Instagram page (@tombachik), he wrote: “We wanted to use a softer shade with a bit of sparkle to contrast the deep dark drama of Selena’s @maisonvalentino gown.” Said gown was a voluminous black and plum number.

Also by Bachik, Margot Robbie’s sparkly, stripedl pink gown was offset by a pearly, shortish and squaoval French manicure. He said: “Margot’s glam was fresh, clean and stunning! For nails, we wanted to complement the dress and carry over the soft but deliberate feel.”

Anya Taylor-Joy rocked long, plain chrome oval nails in gold to complement her yellow two-piece Dior outfit. Her nail set was done by well-known celebrity manicurist, Kim Truong.

One of the night’s winners, Quinta Brunson of ‘Abbott Elementary’ wore crystal embellished, press on ombre nails in a manicure by Temeka Jackson.

Fellow award winner, Julia Garner (‘Ozark’) had her nails created by Chanel nail artist Betina Goldstein, who described the nail set as ‘diamond dust tips’ – these were done in a silver polish.

Goldstein was also responsible for the long, almond shaped ‘butterscotch nails’ of nominee Lilly James (‘Pam & Tommy’).

Julie Kandalec did the nails of Oscar winner and Golden Globe nominee, Jessica Chastain, and opted for a simple but lovely pearly manicure of medium length and oval in shape.

E! ‘Live from the Red Carpet’ host and trans actress, Laverne Cox, is always fashion first at glamorous events such as these and the Golden Globes were no exception. Celebrity manicurist Eri Ishizu did blue asymmetrical tips on Cox’s long stiletto nails, specifically to match the glorious azure hue of her gown.

Also perfectly matched in terms of colour, were nominee Jenna Ortega’s long almond nails – in a soft beige just like her ornate dress. A lighter vertical swirl embellished each nail.

Jenna Ortega @thuynguyen

Selena Gomez @tombachik

Laverne Cox @erierinailz

Margot Robbie @tombachik

Julia Garner @betina_goldstein

Lilly James @betina_goldstein

Jessica Chastain @julieknailsnyc

Spotlight on Pantone color of the Year

Set to directly influence nail and makeup shades next year, as well as fashion and design, global colour authority

Pantone has announced Viva Magenta

18-1750 as its color for 2023.

Dubbed ‘Welcome to the Magenataverse’ on the Pantone Color Institute website, Viva Magenta 18-1750 is said to “vibrate with vim [energy] and vigour. It is a shade rooted in nature, descending from the red family and expressive of a new signal of strength. Viva Magenta is brave and fearless, and a pulsating color whose exuberance promotes a joyous and optimistic celebration, writing a new narrative.”

Leatrice Eiseman, executive director, Pantone Color Institute, adds: “In this age of technology, we look to draw inspiration from nature and what is real. Pantone 18-1750 Viva Magenta descends from the red family, and is inspired by the red of cochineal, one of the most precious dyes belonging to the natural dye family as well as one of the strongest and brightest the world has known.

“Rooted in the primordial, Pantone 18-1750 Viva Magenta reconnects us to original matter. Invoking the forces of nature, Pantone 18-1750 Viva Magenta galvanises our spirit, helping us to build our inner strength.”

(Source: https://www.pantone.com/color-of-theyear-2023)

Viva Magenta 18-1750 (Image sourced from pantone.com)

CGS06RE

Love Letter

Romance in Paris

Bio Sculpture Ravishing Red

Cranberry

Gossip Girl

Prettier in Pink

Calgel S04RE

Auspicious

First Love

Strawberry Dip

Is it safe to use gel-polish mixed into acrylic liquid in order to have different acrylic colours?

he answer to this question is no and I’ll try to be brief in terms of explaining why this is the case. Firstly, no mixing should be done without the express suggestion from the manufacturer, as long as said manufacturer understands what they are doing and has an in-house scientist.

It’s important to understand that gel and acrylic have two completely different polymerisation processes. One needs a photo initiator with a correct wavelength of energy, while the other needs the matched system of initiator (polymer powder), catalyst (monomer liquid) and heat energy.

surrounding skin while wearing, and then released on removal – either via buffing or soaking – all over the skin and in airborne dust to create allergies.

In my opinion, the industry seems to be creating a culture of uneducated ‘chemists’ that are playing with the health of their clients! We are already in an ‘allergy epidemic’ as recognised by the British Association of Dermatologists way back in 2018 and mixing gel-polish into liquid and powder will just make matters worse.

Once upon a time, some brands developed coloured ‘drops’ to add to the liquid monomer to change its colour. If this process is developed properly, then it may be OK, but this practice has disappeared, probably because it wasn’t efficient in a ‘proper cure’.

Mixing gel-polish into liquid and powder is just another step in lowering the quality of the career of a nail technician. What we should be doing instead is elevating this career path with sound education and a thorough understanding of the hazardous chemicals we work with.

The presence of oligomers (in the gel-polish) will interfere with the proper cure of the liquid and powder, which starts to polymerise immediately and will stop the oligomers moving around to polymerise with other oligomers. Consequently, the result will be a lot of uncured monomers that can leach into the nail plate and

Our experts answer questions around all aspects of the industry

Images from Shutterstock

Marian Newman is a session nail technician and has authored the books, ‘The Complete Nail Technician’ and ‘Nailed it’.

Tips to perform the perfect pedicure

Leading nail techs share their secrets to success

s session tech and founder of Revarnish London Roxanne Campbell says, the point of a pedicure is for your client’s feet to look and feel much better than they did before they arrived. “The appearance and transformation are what clients love the most.”

So, to help your client’s pedicure service last longer, it’s vital to do a proper prep.”

Comments Juanita Huber-Millet, founder of Townhouse and winner of Professional Beauty UK’s Nail Salon of the Year 2021 Award: “You should never cut corners with your prep as it creates the foundation for the final result. And, the way you prep the toes should depend on whether you doing a lacquer or gel-polish treatment.”

Derby-based tech Melanie Lewendon adds: “Ensure all steps are completed thoroughly; the nail plate must be sufficiently dehydrated and all oils removed from it. If you’re using standard lacquer polish, then this will increase the adhesion and the life of the service.

“As gel-polish is a dry service, complete

all your prep and gel-polish application before commencing with the scrub part of the pedicure. Don’t soak feet in water or apply product before gel-polish application, as this could inhibit the gel’s adhesion.”

A full pedicure usually takes around 60 minutes, so the nail tech needs to work out how much time each step will take to complete.

The six key steps that will result in a better outcome and a longer-lasting pedicure for clients are: soak, scrub, hard skin removal, moisturising mask, massage, and paint. And don’t forget about cuticle care.

Tailor-made

Pedicures should also be tailored to each client, as KB Educate’s Hampshire-based educator Erin Searle explains: “Every client is different. For example, older clientele come to me because they can no longer do their own feet comfortably and need extra care. They don’t have any colour painted, they just want a tidy up and their skin cared for.

“However, my younger clientele want their skin looked after, but they also want glitter, nail art and colours, so my focus is more towards gel-polish application and making sure this will last. Each client gets the same routine, but I find tailoring the service to each person’s needs helps them get the best results.”

Images from Shutterstock

EACH CLIENT gets the SAME ROUTINE, but I find TAILORING THE SERVICE to EACH PERSON’S NEEDS helps them get the BEST RESULTS.

TREATMENTS

Searle notes that apart from personal preference, there are some reasons why clients might be better suited to one service over another. She continues: “Lacquer pedicures are good for those who would like to remove the colour themselves at home. Many of my mature clients book in for a pedicure for the massage and toenail care, so opt for lacquer if they’re less concerned about colour longevity.

“Gel-polish is ideal for those who want a look that’s going to stay for as long as possible. Also, clients who want the quick in-and-out service aren’t coming in for the relaxation element, so they are best suited for gel-polish toes too. Acrylic pedicures are amazing for toe nail reconstruction as you can recreate a toenail and paint it to look as though nothing is different.”

important when it comes to a long-lasting pedicure too, as Katie Barnes, PB Award-winning nail artist and educator and owner of the Katie Barnes Training Academy and KB Tool Range, explains.

The tech may also come across common conditions such as fungal nail infection, athlete’s foot and bruised nails, which are contraindications. “Please remember, we’re not medically trained and although we may have an idea of what might be occurring, it is always advisable to encourage your client to seek medical advice before you can commence with any treatment,” advises Lewendon.

Challenges

One of the biggest challenges nail techs can face is dealing with ingrown toenails. “If a client has a severe ingrown toenail, which is very painful, swollen or appears red, then you should refer them to a podiatrist who is trained to treat it professionally,” says Campbell.

Another important issue is managing client expectations. “If a client hasn’t had a pedicure for a few years, then they may assume a perfect end result which, depending on the state and condition of the skin, may not be possible,” explains Huber-Millet. “Techs must explain to the client the realistic end result and recommend how to care for the feet in-between visits to ensure the best result each time.”

Keeping toenail length under control is

There may also be occasions where you have a very ticklish client as well. “The best way to minimise injury to yourself and to the client is to keep any pressure firm,” adds Lewendon. “Ensure you have a full hold of your client’s foot at all times and ask them if there would be anything they do not want you to do.”

Also, you need to be prepared to treat clients with mobility issues too. “It may be that they are unable to lift their leg due to hip or back problems, so ensure your pedicure station is set up with the client in a comfortable position and that you are at the correct height to carry out the service,” notes Lewendon.

“Where possible, leg rests are a great way of ensuring tech and client comfort, and offer your customer bolsters to prop and secure any area they need to make them comfortable. Always check the comfort with your client throughout the service.”

Striving for the ultimate

The goal is to make the treatment relaxing. “Even when offering a quicker service, a pedicure is a treat for the feet,” says Barnes. “I put it in the same relaxation category as a facial. When kitting out your pedicure area, choose furniture that is as comfortable and aesthetically pleasing, and factor in the tech’s comfort and ergonomics.”

Think of yourself too – “Make sure you’re always in the correct position during treatment,” says Lewendon. “Your health is as important as that of clients and your career depends on your body working with you. Ensure you stretch, take regular breaks, and keep sat up straight – not a slouched posture – when working.”

Of course, practice makes perfect. “Practice as much as you can,” adds Campbell. “Build confidence in yourself, love what you do and never give up.”

(Source: https://professionalbeauty.co.uk/site/ newsdetails/nail-techs--your-perfect-pedicuretroubleshooting-)

IF A CLIENT HASN’T had a PEDICURE FOR A FEW YEARS, then they may assume a PERFECT END RESULT which, DEPENDING ON the STATE AND CONDITION of the skin, MAY NOT BE POSSIBLE.

Bio Sculpture

Anti-inflammatory and formulated with detoxifying properties, the Ethos Jasmine Cuticle Oil from Bio Sculpture includes sunflower and sweet almond oils to promote healthy nail growth and long lasting nourishment.

051 943 0377

caring for the cuticles

Calgel

The Calgel all in one cuticle cream is an all-round solution to cuticle care. This fast absorbing formulation has been designed to provide intense nourishing, soothing, healing and hydrating care to keep the cuticles in a healthy condition. It contains cacao butter, wheatgerm oil and vitamin E.

011 624 1101/614 0733

Spalicious

Peaches and Apricot Cuticle Oil from Spalicious is conveniently packaged in a handbag size roller ball container and includes vitamin E and sweet almond oil to prevent moisture loss and soften the cuticles.

011 312 7840

MatsiMela

A blend of the finest carrier oils and emollients designed to nourish and provide general cuticle care are found in MatsiMela’s Cuticle Oil. Perfect to hydrate dry and brittle nails, active ingredients include wheat germ oil, pure baobab oil and added vitamin E.

011 704 7251

LCN

From LCN, the Noir Nail Oil Èpices nourishes based on the carefully selected nourishing oils that supply dry and cracked cuticles with moisture. Rich in minerals as well as vitamins A, B and E, this oil promotes the protection of the skin and cell regeneration.

010 593 3293

Gelish

Gelish Nourish Cuticle Oil re-hydrates and restores essential oils to cuticles and skin surrounding the nail with a unique blend of grapeseed oil, kukui nut oil, sesame and vitamin E.

011 447 0659

Cuticle oils and/or creams are an integral part of nail care and should always be applied after any treatment. They are also ideal for retail purposes in the salon

A winning look

Celebrity nail artist Vanessa McCollough shares how she created a nail set for Golden Globe Award winner, Jennifer Coolidge.

he 80th Golden Globe Awards event was held in Los Angeles on 10 January 2023 and presented by the Hollywood Foreign Press Association.

Viewed in more than 230 countries worldwide, the annual Golden Globes honours Hollywood’s finest talent and celebrates both motion picture and television achievements.

CND partnered with celebrity nail artist Vanessa McCollough (@nailzbyvee) for Jennifer Coolidge’s (@jennifercoolidge) red carpet nail look. Coolidge won the Golden Globe for Best Supporting Actress in a Limited Series for her performance in ‘The White Lotus’.

Says McCullough: “Jennifer decided to wear a long-sleeved black dress with a lot of shimmer, so I wanted to contrast the shimmer by using gold embellishments that didn’t compete with it. The gold triangle detail was the perfect touch. Plus, the length of her nails and positioning of the triangle also helped to elongate her hands.”

Step 1

Begin by applying CND Plexigel Bonder to the nails.

Step 2

Use CND Future Forms to sculpt the nails.

Step 3

Apply two coats of CND Plexigel Builder to build desired length.

Step 4

Apply two coats of CND Shellac Gel Polish in Black Pool.

Step 5

Finish with CND Shellac Duraforce Top Coat, securing a gold triangle embellishment in the bottom centre of the nails, before applying a second layer of the top coat.

Step 6

Moisturise with CND Solar Oil to condition the nails and cuticles.

Jennifer Coolidge (Images courtesy of CND)

Step 1

Chain of hearts

Salon owner and nail artist, Tania Biddle, created this lovely Valentine’s Day-inspired design

Apply a Base Layer, according to nail plate analysis. Cure. Apply one layer of a transparent nude colour. For this design I used Anthea from EVO. Cure and wipe to remove the sticky residue

Step 4

Use a nail art brush and drag the tip of the brush through the wet gel dots, starting at the cuticle outline and ending at the free edge. Drag the brush in a single stroke. For this design I used the Upper Arch Brush from Bio Sculpture. Cure.

Step 2

Dip a Dotting Tool into a colour gel and place dots down the centre of the nail. Do not cure.

Step 5

Use a Dotting Tool and place small white dots on either side of the chain of hearts design. Cure.

Step 3

Repeat using three various colour gels. Place the dots next to each other with a small space in between. Do not cure.

Step 6

End with a Top Coat. Cure and cleanse.

For this design I used a combination of colour gels, treatment gels and the Upper Arch Brush from Bio Sculpture.

Tania Biddle is the owner and founder of the award-winning Plush Nails and Beauty in Roodpoort. She is also head of education for Bio Sculpture.

If you would like to view previous issues of the magazine please click HERE