RESTRAINT AGREEMENTS THOUGHTFOODCONSCIOUSFOR SPASUSTAINABLECUISINE SCOPEPRACTICEOF AESTHETICGUIDELINESTREATMENT TO DO? TO DO OR NOT AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS NAIL FILE September 2022 | probeauty.co.za
3online @ probeauty.co.za IN THIS ISSUE CONTENTS 6 Industry news Local and international news 32 In the market Latest product launches 34 Crowning glory Focus on hair BusinessRegulars 13 Ask the Experts Dealing with online trolls 14 How to assess your staff The low down on appraisals 16 To restrain or not to restrain Should you have a agreement?restraint 35 NailFile Issue 55 Nails 30 Scope of Practice Guidelines for aesthetic therapists Aesthetic Medicine Features 20 Sensitivity – a skincondition caused byour environment Causes and characteristics 22 A delicate approach Treatments for sensitive skin 28 Here comes the sun Spotlight on sunscreens 18 So, what’s on the menu today? Sustainable spa cuisine Spa Focus
Natasha Chisese natasha@professionalbeauty.org.zaSalesConsultant
At the time of publication, the Professional Beauty team had just hosted its first flagship Johannesburg Expo in three years. The event, although smaller than our previous shows due to the Covid economy, was a resounding success and attracted a significant number of exhibitors from leading brands, as well as thousands of visitors.
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Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
Joanna Sterkowicz 083 411 joanna@probeauty.co.za8512MarketingExecutive
Prior to the event, we had implemented a stringent process of vetting all those who registered for the event, to ensure that we had industry professionals only, thus resulting in a better quality of visitor. You can read a report back of the show on our lead News page. The dynamic of having staff members who leave your salon but then take their clients with them remains a serious problem for owners, many of whom have spent considerable time and money on nurturing and training staff. One way of dealing with this issue to make staff sign restraint agreements, but is this necessarily a good idea?
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Yolanda Knott 011 781 yolanda@probeauty.co.za5970CommercialDirector
WELCOME
Charlene Dickson 079 116 charlene@professionalbeauty.org.za3262OperationsExecutive Obey Dube obey@probeauty.co.zaDesign
Saveer Sugreem
Publisher5970Mark Moloney mark@probeauty.co.zaManagingDirector
We have included an article that deals with the pros & Whilecons.stillon the subject of staff, you will also find in this issue a useful article on staff appraisals and how to go about them.
Philip Woods 084 759 phil@probeauty.co.za2024Editor
Additional pics: www.shutterstock.com, www.pexels.com, www. pixabay.com and www.unsplash.com
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The 2023 edition of Professional Beauty and Salon International will take place on 3 & 4 September.
After an absence of three years due to the pandemic, Professional Beauty once again hosted its flagship Johannesburg Expo on 28 and 29 August, at Gallagher ConventionThousandsCentre.ofindustry professionals visited the expo, which was combined with Salon International, a trade show for the hair sector. The expo also included business seminars, as well as the World Spa & Wellness Convention and the Aesthetic Medicine Convention. Many leading beauty, skincare, nail, aesthetics and hair brands exhibited at the show. Said Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA: “This was a great show for us. Sundays are always the busiest of the two days but this Monday was busier than previous years. It was wonderful to be back and it’s clear that people really wanted to be back. We found this show better than the last Professional Beauty show in 2019, because it was more personalised and condensed.” Twincare’s Lindzey Turton added: “There was such an energy at the show. People clearly missed the touch and feel of new products as they have been purchasing online for so long. We had so much interaction on our stand –people wanted to speak to us to hear about the products and to try them.” Said Mathapelo Mpati of DMK: “The fact that we were able to have the show again is amazing as we’ve missed it. We generated some good leads and people actually came to our stand looking for us. It was nice to interact with different salons and therapists.”
Harrod of Saloncare reported that in terms of selling products off their stand, the company did over and above what they expected to. In addition, they opened newNSI’ssalons.Katia Da Silva said that Professional Beauty’s vetting process of visitors in the registration process for the show worked really well. “There was definitely a better quality of visitor this time. People were really happy to see us in person and, because it was a smaller event, visitors were more relaxed and had a lot more time to chat to us. So it was easier to sell to them as well as upsell.”
INDUSTRY NEWS
Elaine Timcke of Calgel found the fact that both hair and beauty exhibitors were in one hall beneficial. “For the first time ever at the expo, we had hair salons coming to our stand enquiring about nails. I enjoyed the cosy nature of theAmandashow.”
Professional Beauty hosts successful Johannesburg Expo
The Lilian Terry stand attracted a lot of interest, according to Nadia Joubert: “We are very happy with how the show panned out – we had a busy and consistent stream of visitors.”BioSculpture’s aim in exhibiting at the show was to build customer relationships and brand awareness. Said Tania Biddle: “We certainly achieved this and Sunday was a particularly great day for us.”
(Source: innovation-centre/future-of-beauty/power-in-ageing)https://www.avonworldwide.com/beauty-innovation/ injectable ice-slurry be the next big thing in body sculpting?
Aestheticprobeauty.co.zaMedicinemagazine reports that results from a study published in Lasers in Surgery and Medicine (LSM) show that cryolipolysis using ice-slurry injections is effective in body sculpting treatments.Thestudy used modeling to determine the dosimetry for injectable ice-slurry treatments and demonstrated the important role that the physical properties of the slurry and the composition of target adipose tissue can play in treatment outcomes.“Wehad already demonstrated that ice-slurry injection is a novel method for efficient and effective subcutaneous adipose tissue reduction,” said Dr Lilit Garibyan, assistant professor of Dermatology at Harvard Medical School and co-inventor of the injectable ice-slurryGaribyantechnology.continued
Will
This trend of self-acceptance reported on in Avon’s ‘The Power in Ageing’ study is described as moving from ‘anti’ to ‘authentic’ and ‘pro’Whenageing.itcomes to skincare, only 42% of women over the age of forty feel like they have cracked their skincare regime and a third (32%) still change their skincare products regularly looking for the right solutions for their needs. An overwhelming 72% of all women polled said they want to focus on looking healthy rather than young as a result of the pandemic. Many women ditched make-up while working from home, and that’s made them a lot more aware of their skin’s condition and they been taking a lot more care of it as a result.
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“We did the current study to better understand the heat exchange and phase changes that occur after ice-slurry injection into subcutaneous tissue. This helps determine the important parameters of ice-slurry and adipose tissue that influence the amount of fat reduction with this treatment.”Thedemand for body contouring and fat-loss treatments have increased dramatically post pandemic. According to a report by Research and Markets, the global body contouring market reached a value of $7.3 Billion in 2021 and is expected to reach $11.1 Billion by 2027, exhibiting a CAGR of 6.9% during 20222027. Almost two thirds (62%) of women aged 40 or above polled in a global Avon study said the pandemic has made them feel confident in how they look, while almost half said the pandemic has made them want to embrace their wrinkles (49%) and grey hair (46%).
Skinimalism is an existing trend that is set to continue. In the research, half (51%) the women polled said they use multi-purpose skincare products that deliver more than one benefit in their routine. They are looking for those concentrated formulas that give the best bang for their buck, not only in terms of money but also benefits.
Two thirds of women (64%) choose to use products that have been scientifically proven, while 59% of women said they choose to use products with smart formulas that can boost their body’s natural process. Over two thirds (70%) of women prefer skincare products that have a gentler formula, and say they avoid skincare products that can have harsh side effects, even if they deliver fast results.
Photo by Artem Beliaikin on Unsplash
Women in their 40s more comfortable with their looks than pre-pandemic, finds study
INDUSTRY NEWS
New research shows that ‘spa deal’ comes in at number one on the list of the top spa search terms this year. Spa booking agency SpaSeekers conducted a study to ascertain which search terms most attract guests to book a spa day or spa break in the UK.
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“If clean beauty does become the norm, it will positively impact the cultivation, harvesting and processing of natural ingredients as well as farmers, communities and the natural environment. For clean beauty to really take off in South Africa, research needs to go into how to do this more cost-effectively and considerately to the environment and its driving%20factorsMarket%20is%20valued,to%20number%20of%20clean-beauty-market-size#:~:text=Clean%20Beauty%20https://brandessenceresearch.com/consumer-goods/inhabitants.”
According to a new study from Brand Essence Research, the clean beauty market is expected to be worth USD 11558.5 million by 2027, up from USD 5439.6 million in 2020[i].
Interestingly, the search terms ‘afternoon tea’ and ‘bed and breakfast break’ are positioned on the Top 20 list at two and three respectively. So, if businesses are not using these terms in their marketing material or spa packages, they might be missing out on potential bookings.
Factors such as manufacturing and retailing costs are holding beauty brands back from going ‘clean’.
(Source: Professional Beauty UK)
Here is the list of search terms in ascending order: Spa deal; Afternoon tea; Bed-and-breakfast break; Indulgent break for two; 2-for-1 spa day; Refresh and revive; Indulgent/indulge; Serenity; Tailor-made; Mud Rasul experience for two; Simply; Mindful; Cream tea; Spa time together; Just for me; Essential; Natural energy; Rejuvenate; Twilight; and Head-to-toe.
This is due to increased demand for products that are free from synthetic chemicals and ingredients that are potentially harmful to both people and the planet, such as parabens, phthalates, oxybenzone and synthetic fragrances.“Asmore and more people shift to a cleaner consciousness, scrutinising the everyday products they use is no longer limited to beauty. Pharmaceutical giant Johnson & Johnson learnt this first-hand when public pressure forced them to discontinue their top-selling talcum baby powder and reformulate the product using a corn starch base. And, while the South African market has made considerable inroads, I believe the majority of beauty products are still manufactured using questionable chemicals.” says Toni Carroll, founder and CEO of luxury nutricosmetic brand My Beauty Luv. She points out that most beauty brands are wanting to join the clean beauty movement. “Even if they have not entirely changed their formulas to remove all chemicals, there are many brands that are now including more natural ingredients and extracts, removing the really harsh chemicals and incorporating organic-based ingredients. Some brands are also launching a ‘natural’ or ‘organic’ range, so the brand is seen to be moving in a ‘cleaner’ direction.“Thatsaid, certain formulas and products we all love would not and could not exist without the use of certain chemicals. Some products would be totally ineffective if the chemicals were removed, so there is definitely education needed around which chemicals are safer to use, and which ones are a no-go.”
The top 20 spa buzzwords of 2022 Clean beauty market set to grow to $11558.5 million by 2027 Image from Pixabay
Says Theron: “Twenty-six years after SAIHBTh was established, times had changed and the goal was to change the institute into a Professional Body and so in 1998, SAIHBTh became SAAHSP.”
Tzvia Hermann, founder of The Beautique Group, incorporating The Laser Beautique, Beautique Brands and Beautique Academy, has developed a board game called, ‘Flipping Queens – A Royal South African Game’. Hermann created the game during the Covid lockdown, at the height of the horrific gender-based violence South Africa was experiencing at the time. She says: “Although the game is light-hearted and fun, it sends a strong message of how valuable women are in our society, as well as how men and women should unite with a common goal of success. “This is not just a great family Christmas gift but a gift that is perfect to send overseas to South African expats. It is ideal to teach foreigners about our beautiful, quirky South Africanisms, and fabulous for kids and families to have fun, let go and spend some quality time together, away from their mobile phone screens.”
SAAHSP celebrates 50 years
History SAAHSP was first known as the South African Institute of Health and Beauty Therapists (SAIHBTh) when it was formed in 1972. It was subsequently registered as the CIDESCO Section South Africa. From 1973, SAIHBTh / SAAHSP hosted successful congresses across the country.In1979, SAIHBTh drafted its first Constitution, constructed along with the Code of Ethics for the Profession.
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The 7th of September 2022 marks the 50 anniversary of SAAHSP (The South African Association of Health & Skincare Professionals).Saysacting
SAAHSP president, Joelette Theron: “SAAHSP is currently striving to become the Statutory Professional Body for the industry. Our aim is to keep education as main focus of the association and to ensure that both the formal and informal sectors will be represented, as the need for jobs in South Africa is of utmost importance. “We would like to thank all past Presidents, Honorary Members, Board Members, Members, Training Providers, students and all industry stakeholders for their continued support of the organisation. With you, we will keep going for another 10 years.”
New venture for The founderBeautiqueLaser
Photo by Paulo R Santos on Unsplash
On the 16th of August 2001, the PAB (Professional Assurance Body) achieved official ETQA Status. (ETQA is now known as Quality Assurance Councils, which accredit Training Providers.) This was set up by directors Debbie Merdjan and Philippa Crichton for accreditation purposes and was an unbelievable achievement as only five private companies had this accreditation from SAQA (South African Qualifications Authority). Due to the need for ownership of the Qualificaiton previously owned by PAB, Tina Scholtz Honorary Member, was integral in getting SAAHSP appointed the Quality Assurance Partner (QAP) for the Quality Council of Trades and Occupations (QCTO) since 2014. This allowed SAAHSP to become the Accreditation Body for the Health and Skincare Qualification. SAAHSP was awarded Professional Body Status by SAQA on the 19th of March 2013 and registered and quality controls the following Designations: Nail Technologist; Beauty Technologist; Beauty Therapist; Somatologist; and Advanced Aesthetic Therapist.
It’s very interesting to note that even those individuals who have huge social media followings will often focus so much on the negative and almost seem oblivious to all the positive, warm and reassuring comments. But it’s listening to those negative inner voices that stirs up our childhood need for acceptance and approval, which can be so raw, however old we are. As such, you very often see people, even from our sector, posting content that only addresses the minor criticism they have received, instead of focusing on the supportive, positiveTrollingcomments.isbullying– end of. The trouble with living in a world of social media is that you open yourself up to judgement from everyone – about you, your team, your salon, your services… with no filter on whether the person making the remarks is justified or qualified to comment. Worse still, those comments and reviews are there forever – the internet is indelible.
Unfair abuse
I’m sure I’m not alone in saying that we’ve been subject to some terrible reviews online, accusing us of all manner of things from harassment to incompetence –all grossly unfair, untrue and unfounded. There’s little right of reply. We’ve banned clients who I’d politely ejected from the premises for posting horrendous slurs and accusations against our business. Although legislation governing social media is set to get much stricter in some countries, with the eternal nature of the internet, once it’s out there, it’s out there. So, what’s the answer? Do we just have to toughen up? Well, I have two Instagram accounts; one private (for friends and family) and one public (for work), and that helps. But when it comes to the salon, safeguarding the reputation of the brand and the staff that work there is infinitely more challenging. Of course, if we were to post about unreasonable clients, people who’ve tried to defraud and steal from us, phoney insurance claims for suspect ‘damage and injury’, and serial complainers who have no intention of ever being a real customer, we’d no doubt be sued. People twist things. People say things that aren’t true.
Our experts answer questions around all aspects of the industry
The trouble with the internet and the modern world is that there is no judge or jury so the only thing to do is to try to focus on the positive and show the negative as the minority that it truly is.
Image from Pixabay Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrosp in London and beauty ambassador for the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF).
As a salon owner how do I handle online trolls?
romoting yourself and your business on social media inevitably opens you up to criticism. The trouble with putting yourself out there and looking for public acceptance or, dare I say it, adoration, is that it is very often coupled with criticism, justified or not. It’s human nature to want to be liked, so it stings when someone has it in for you even though we know that it’s just not possible that everybody will like us. Look at how many reality TV stars suffer from appalling mental health issues, sometimes resulting in devastating consequences after exposing themselves to widespread critique on platforms such as Instagram and Twitter.
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Performance appraisals are essential for the effective management and evaluation of all staff members in your salon, writes beauty business expert Liz McKeon
assess your staff How to
Photo by Tirachard Kumtanon from Pexels
Depending on the size of the business, each staff member is appraised by their manager and the manager is appraised by the director.
Little wonder that appraisals become stressful, which defeats the whole purpose. Therein lies the problem and, in fact, the remedy.
ppraisals help to develop individuals, improve salon performance and feed into long-term business planning.
From an HR (Human Resource) perspective, appraisals are important for staff motivation, attitude and behavioural development, communicating and aligning individual and salon aims, and fostering positive relationships between staff and management. They provide a formal, recorded and regular review of an individual’s performance, and a plan for future development.
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Staff performance appraisals also establish individual training needs and aid in training needs analysis and planning. Appraisals also typically feed into organisational annual pay reviews, which commonly coincide with the business planning for the following 12 months. The process is also essential for career and succession planning – for individuals, crucial jobs and for the salon as a whole.
A plan for future development
Annual performance appraisals enable management to monitor standards, agree on salon expectations and objectives, as well as delegate responsibilities and tasks.
Managers and appraisees commonly dislike appraisals and try to avoid them. For them, the appraisal process is daunting, time consuming and seen as a difficult administrative chore, not to mention an emotionally challenging one. The annual appraisal is maybe the only time since the previous year that the two people have sat down together for a meaningful one-to-one discussion.
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because people then KNOW AND TRUST each other •
BUSINESS
MEANINGFUL regular about the salon, CAREERS, AIMS, PROGRESS, CLIENTS, INDUSTRY TRENDS, IDEAS common interests etc. EASIER Analysing output within the salon Clarifying and defining the salon’s priorities and business objectives Improved motivation through agreeing financial targets Improved motivation by discussing achievement and giving positive feedback Esta blishing training needs Identifying personal strengths Developing goals for career and succession planning Cla rifying team goals and team building Resolving confusions and misunderstandings Delegation of additional responsibilities
MAKE APPRAISALS so much
DISCUSSIONS
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Beneficial and appropriate
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As a manager, it is your responsibility to help staff understand their natural potential and strengths. There are a lot of people working in salons whose bosses don’t allow them to use and develop their greatest strengths. The more we can assist staff to understand their own potential and find roles that really fit well, the happier everyone will be.
Manager development – all good managers should be able to conduct excellent appraisals
As the salon manager, it is your job to motivate and inspire your team to achieve great things for themselves, your clients and your salon business. Great communication gives you the vehicle to motivate those around you to aspire to and achieve your business goal.
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Photo by mentatdgt from Pexels
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The process When designing and conducting appraisals, seek to help the ‘whole person’ to grow in whatever direction they want, not just to identify the relevant work skills training needs. Increasingly, the best salon managers recognise that developing the ‘whole person’ promotes positive attitudes, advancement, motivation and also develops lots of new skills that can be surprisingly relevant to working productively and effectively in any size salon.
If you are a manager who rarely sits down and talks with your staff – or whose employees are not used to talking with their boss – then set about relaxing the atmosphere and improving relationships. Work and appraisals all tend to be easier when people communicate well and know eachDevelopother.the habit of sitting down together and talking as often as you can, and then when actual formal appraisals are due, everyone will find the whole process to be far more natural, quick and easy. This will be a lot more productive, which is the whole point of the exercise.
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Meaningful regular discussions about the salon, careers, aims, progress, clients, industry trends, ideas, common interests etc. make appraisals so much easier because people then know and trust each other – which reduces all the stress and uncertainty. Discussions that are put off again and again start to loom very large. So, don’t wait for the annual appraisal to sit down and talk. Remember, either the boss or the appraisee can instigate this. If you are an employee with a shy boss, then take the lead.
Liz McKeon is an author, business coach, trainer and mentor, specialising in salon turnaround. Email liz@lizmckeon.com
Improve relationships
People have less face-to-face time together in a busy salon environment. By doing appraisals, you offer a way to protect and manage this valuable one-to-one time. So nurture these opportunities and be confident that you can safely cover all aspects of performance and attitudinal development that a well-run performance appraisals system is naturally designed to achieve.
An effective appraisal system is and age-old, tried and tested proven management tool to assist you to be the best team leader possible.
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It is sometimes fashionable in this modern age of technology to dismiss traditional processes, such as performance appraisals, as being irrelevant or unhelpful. Be very wary however, if considering removing appraisals from your own management and organisational practices. It is likely that the critics of the appraisal process are the people who can’t conduct them very well (it is a common human response to want to avoid something that you find difficult). Appraisals, in whatever form, have been a mainstay of management for decades, for good reasons.Thinkabout everything that performance appraisals can achieve and contribute to when they are properly managed, for example:
Appraisals are much easier, and especially more relaxed, if the boss meets each of the team members individually and regularly for one-to-one discussions throughout the year.
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I am not a fan of restraint of trade agreements because I feel that once a staff member wants to leave, the relationship is already broken and I prefer to explore all ways to keep staff. Let’s face it, training a new staff member takes time and energy that could be going into generating revenue for the business. So, let’s look at a few ways that you can prevent staff from leaving.
Secondly, something to think about before I dive into the nitty gritty about restraint of trade agreements is – if your therapist or nail tech is taking the clients with them, then who was the relationship with in the first place, the business or the therapist?
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Tips to retain staff
Does this statement sound familiar?
I’ve invested so much time, money and energy into my staff, upskilled them with training and then they leave and take all my clients with them!
Firstly, I would like you to think about what would happen to our industry if you didn’t train and upskill your staff; we would be sitting with a workforce that no one wants to hire because of lack of training and experience. As it is, the quality of staff available right now is a contentious subject as most salon and spa owners are complaining that they cannot find staff. If every business owner was committed to training and developing their team to the fullest, then the whole industry would uplift and we would have a bigger and better pool to choose from.
To restrain or not to restrain
1. Have a career plan and development path planned out with each team member. This gives them goals and keeps them focused. If they know they can grow and earn more money, then they won’t want to leave.
Photo by Cyton Photography from Pexels
2. Tra in, train and train some more. Keep your staff
3. Harness the client relationships. Ensure that each client knows their value and is appreciated. There are hundreds of ways to do this with a few simple ideas, such as loyalty programmes, a free birthday treatment, personalising their services with a little surprise that they will love, like a hot neck pack, or their favorite tea etc. Don’t underestimate the power of a simple loyalty programme to keep the client engaged with the business.
What is a reasonable radius you might ask? Just recently, on the 20th July 2022, the Labour Court of South Africa enforced a 200km radius restraint for a period of 2 years in a matter involving a staff member moving from one fleet management company to another. Whilst this has nothing to do with our industry, the court took into consideration that the one company was engaging with clients from the other company and that both companies offered similar services, which relates right back to our industry. This is a very good breakthrough case for us but yet again the distance and time period for any restraint will depend from case to case and the amount of confidentiality, skills, IP, etc to determine what can be seen as a reasonable distance and time period. What’s important is that the agreement is signed BEFORE commencement of work and that the agreement is very clear about the distance and time period.
Agreement First and foremost, a restraint of trade agreement has to be clearly explained and agreed upon by both parties before commencement of work. You need to clearly explain the restraint radius and, in fact, using a map and outlining the radius on a map is the best and most clear way. Here is an example – if your salon or spa is in Midrand, consider these distances that you might not have thought about: Midrand – Sandton = 16km Midrand – Northriding = 25km Midrand – Mulderdrift = 38km Midrand – Benoni = 48km These distances don’t seem far, especially when you look at the picture of the map, however the labour court will consider much more than just the distance. They will look at the ability of the person to travel, as in do they use public transport or their own vehicle, where the person lives and how easily they could move home, and how much other skilled labour is available in your area.
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What is important to remember when drawing up a restraint agreement is that you don’t want to stop the person leaving from earning a living, all you want to do is keep the clients in your business.
continuously learning and growing and this again will want to keep them there as you facilitate their career path.
BUSINESS TIPS
Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder and owner of The Spa Consultants and a co-founder of The Spa Professionals Guild. Email marisa@spaprofessionalsguild.com
Reasonable radius
I would suggest that you work with an experienced employers’ organisation such as LWO, who are excellent legal advisors and specialise in our industry to guide you and give you the right agreement templates, so that this process is done correctly from the start. Image from Pixabay
4. Have incentive schemes/ programmes that are tailored to each individual staff member, as this will drive each one to perform when they are working towards something they specifically need or want. These are just 4 ideas and there are many more but, having said all this, staff will inevitably come and go. It is the reality of life and business, so you do need to protect your business.
Essentially, these movements require that food should be:
today?
Greenspa Africa’s Charne le Roux looks at the holistic benefits of introducing sustainable and conscious cuisine into the spa the menu
• Clean – in being produced without straining the earth resources, its ecosystems and its environments and without harming human health; and
• Fair – meaning fair reward for all concerned, from production to distribution to consumption.
EATING SEASONAL FOODS that are SOURCED LOCALLY and GROWN ORGANICALLY has now become an IMPORTANT objective in HARNESSINGBENEFITMAXIMUM for all.
e are in Spring and the blossoms, blooms and new sprouts surely bring inspiration to all spa chefs. They know that while eating a meal is a biological inevitability, the experience of eating really goes much further; that it is about creating a seasonal adventure that stimulates all our senses. To fully appreciate the process of nourishment, however, requires a different perspective. As the Green Spa Guide states: ‘Eating is a process of physical, emotional and spiritual nourishment’. The positive energy that we derive from eating, from our nourishment and contentment, should not be underestimated in how it contributes to our holistic wellness. Seeing and appreciating a beautifully formed, colourful fruit, universally perfect yet simple in its appearance, tends to alter one’s perception of food and nourishment. Food contains and radiates life force and when consumed, transfers it into our bodies.
How this applies to the spa kitchen
• Buy seasonal meal ingredients that are locally produced.
So, what’s on
Eating seasonal foods that are sourced locally and grown organically has now become an important objective in harnessing maximum benefit for all. Fruits and vegetables produced in this way not only taste better and cost less than imported foods, but they are generally more nutritious.
Photo by Ella Olsson from Pexels
At the same time, our local communities flourish.
18 online @ probeauty.co.za SPA FOCUS
• Make sure that the spa cuisine menu does not include protected species, but only sustainably harvested fish, for example.
• Prepare spa meals that are flavoursome and stimulate the senses, promote and strengthen wellness, harmony and positive energy.
Movements The global increase in fast foods and fast eating habits has had the combined effect of individual tastes being standardised and thousands of foods and flavours gradually disappearing. One of them is bitter foods, such as bitter gourd, which stimulates the growth of healthy gut bacteria. Moreover, an appreciation of food no longer formed part of the eating experience. The realisation of these truths gave rise to movements such as Farm to Fork, Slow Food and Foraging.
• Good – in being tasty, flavoursome, fresh and capable of stimulating and satisfying the senses;
SPA FOCUS
As turnkey sustainability practitioner, Charné le Roux advocates and influences sustainability in the wellness industry. Her work includes creating the Sustainable Spa Practitioner Course, GreenSpa Guide and GreenSpa Calculator. Email charne@greenspa.africa
Suggest to SPA GUESTS to ENJOY THEIR MEAL IN SILENCE, to EAT SLOWLY and ATTENTIVELY and to FOCUS ON the TASTE of EACH ITEM of food. comfortable clothing and to approach the preparation process with goodness and respect. (Many cultures believe that the consciousness of the person preparing a meal may result in that energy being reflected onto the person eating it.)
• Establish your own food garden or even just a herb garden and encourage spa guests to forage ingredients for their salads or herbal teas. This simple practice immerses us in the act of self-nourishment and connects us to Earth’s abundance.
• A lot can be said for the promotion of the vegetarian spa menu. Nutritionally, vegetables, diary, eggs and the combination of rice and lentils (a favourite in Indian and Malay cultures) have sufficient complex proteins to replace meat. Economically, the amount of meat that may be derived from a single animal and the number of people that it would feed is much less compared to the large volume of plant material consumed by that animal, which could otherwise have provided a meal to many more people, at a much lower production price. Additionally, the production of meat products is very energy, water and resource intensive.
• S uggest to spa guests to enjoy their meal in silence, to eat slowly and attentively and to focus on the taste of each item of food. Sharing a meal is a gesture of gratitude and regulates self-gratification. The concept of sharing extends to the free kitchen, where food is prepared and given to people who need it. All these positive activities transform a simple act of nourishment into a holistic wellness and sustainable experience.
• Cultivate a sense of pride in food preparation in the spa kitchen by encouraging staff to prepare meals in
Sensitivity
NORMALLY, if someone is PRONE TO HAY FEVER, SINUS, ALLERGIES and suffers with ASTHMA, then their SKIN WILL BE VERY SENSITIVE.
Another internal factor would be hormonal changes. We experience these mostly when we get older and approaching menopause, but also when we are premenstrual or pregnant. Stress, however, may also cause our hormones to become imbalanced, making our skins sensitive all of a sudden. When our hormones change, it may cause skin to become sensitive for a short period of time.Lung sensitivity may also lead to skin sensitivity according to the Oriental Facial Diagnosis, as it is believed that the lungs and skin are sister organs. Normally, if someone is prone to hay fever, sinus, allergies and suffers with asthma, then their skin will be very sensitive.
Clinic owner Sonette Donker breaks down the characteristics of sensitive skin – a skin condition caused by our environment
This is what you put into your body, i.e. alcohol, caffeine, medication and a lack of fresh fruit, vegetables and water intake. These elements mostly cause dehydration in your body but can cause inflammation due to your body being in an acidic state, which causes your skin to become sensitive. You need to make sure to increase your water intake and have more alkalising foods and drinks. Medication such as roaccutane and cortisone could lead to a reduction in skin thickness, leaving it less protected against the environment, which then causes sensitivity.
SENSITIVE SKIN must have a ‘BLAND’ skincare REGIMEN to only HYDRATE, MOISTURISE and SOOTHE THE SKIN.
External environment
This is what we expose our skins to daily – i.e. pollution, air conditioning, central heating and skincare products containing harsh detergents or drying alcohols. The minute our skin becomes dehydrated, it will lead to sensitivity, especially if the trigger causing dehydration is not removed.Whenyour skin is dehydrated, I want you to imagine the following: your skin cells are bricks and in-between the enerally speaking, sensitive skin is not usually classified as a skin type, but rather a skin condition as you are not born with it. The typical sensitive characteristics are: a thinner epidermis, tightness (which is dehydration), stinging and burning, coupled with redness. This skin is ‘hot’ to the touch and in a darker skin (Fitzpatrick 4-6), you won’t necessarily see the redness but you can feel the heat. It is normally caused by your internal and external environments.
Photo by Gustavo Fring from Pexels
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Internal environment
Treatment protocol
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Hydroxy Acids
• Xylitol - Prevents skin dehydration • Silicones - Hydrating • Vitamin K - Soothing and healing • Bisabolol - Soothing and anti-inflammatory • Ceramides - Hydrating and reinforces the barrier function of the skin • Allantion - Soothing and moisturising • Niacinamide - Hydrating, moisturising and reduces redness • Salicylic Acid - Anti-inflammatory • Omega 3 - Supplement that reduces inflammation in the skin You also need to ensure the microbiome of the skin is healthy. If not, invest in a product/s to boost the health of the microbiome as it will help reduce the sensitivity.
Skincare regimen
• Glycerin - Hydrating and provides a protective film
Over exfoliation with Hydroxy Acids may cause dehydration, leading to sensitivity. More is not better in this case and you must stick to the manufacturer’s guidelines as to how long that exfoliant must stay on the skin and how often it can be used.
Having a dry skin coupled with dehydration leaves your skin very vulnerable as the protection layer it needs is not in place, causing bacteria and other substances to penetrate the skin deeper than intended, leading to sensitivity.
Photo by Tima Miroshnichenko from Pexels
• Hya luronic Acid - Hydrating • Aloe Vera - Hydrating and soothing • Panthenol - Hydrating and healing
Chemical sunscreens
The first way to treat sensitivity is to hydrate the skin while soothing and healing. I suggest moisturisers, masks and serums containing any of the following ingredients:
Sensitive skin must have a ‘bland’ skincare regimen to only hydrate, moisturise and soothe the skin. Actives like Retinol and Alpha Hydroxy Acids may only be introduced slowly once the sensitivity is under control.
The sensitive skin client must avoid very active treatments during this time, but hydrating skin treatments are advised. This client must have a cooler water temperature during the skin treatment and at home to help reduce the heat in the skin.
A visionary, innovator and the owner of Skin Fundi and Skin iD, Sonette Donker is a professional skincare specialist with more than 25 years’ experience, whose passion is changing lives through changing skin. She has worked with leading scientific skincare brands, including Dermalogica, Dermaceutic, Nimue, pHformula and optiPhi, some of which she assisted in launching into the South African professional skincare industry. At her Skin iD Skin Studio in Sandton, Donker provides bespoke, results-driven corrective skincare solutions. In addition, she launched an online skincare guidance, advice and training portal for beginners, enthusiasts and pros alike, www.skinfundi.com.
Oily skin
• Shea Butter - Nourishing and hydrating
Artificial fragrances and chemical sunscreens may cause sensitivity in some individuals as the fragrance contains thousands of molecules and can easily irritate the skin. A chemical sunscreen contains chemical sun filters, which absorb the UV rays and release them off as heat, leading to sensitivity in some skins.
An oily skin, for example, has more than enough oil to protect itself, but often people with such skin hate the ‘oily shine’, so they wash their skin with a cleanser that has an alkaline pH and contains harsh detergents to get the ‘squeaky’ clean feeling. By doing this, you are, in actual fact, destroying the skin’s natural acid mantle as well as dehydrating the skin, leading to an oily, dehydrated and sensitive skin. These people will say that their skin is oily and dry, with sensitivity.
bricks we have cement to keep the bricks together. Now think of your skin cells as being the bricks, and your NMF (Natural Moisturising Factor) the cement. When you are dehydrated, the cement between the bricks has cracks in it, just like when your skin is dehydrated, it has ‘cracks’ in your NMF. When you have ‘cracks’ in your NMF, your skin allows substances that would normally be rejected into it and when it realises that it didn’t want these substances to penetrate, the skin stings and burns. Thus dehydration leads to sensitivity.
22 online @ probeauty.co.za SENSITIVE SKIN
Photo by John Tekeridis from Pexels
Ecosystem
As most clients may, at some stage of their lives, suffer from sensitive or reactive skin, it’s important to know which products and treatments to use for this condition
The Esse Sensitive Cleanser is a soothing and calming pH-balanced, creamy cleanser formulated to minimise irritation to sensitive skin, while still removing make-up effectively. It contains postbiotics to positively shift microbial populations for healthy, radiant skin.
The Esse Protect Oil is a light-textured face oil to protect and repair sensitive skin. With unique cold press ximenia oil, the product is formulated to boost barrier function and protect the skin from environmental damage. It is clinically proven to protect against skin irritation and reduce skin redness by 40%.
A approachdelicate
An anti-ageing treatment for sensitive skin, the Resurrect Serum’s unique formulation of myrothamnus, pre- and postbiotics, and hyaluronic acid provides rapid skin hydration, while combating inflammation and ageing without overstimulating. This product is clinically proven to reduce wrinkle depth by 13% in 28 days, with positive results being shown in 95% of test subjects.
Certified organic skincare company, Esse, believes in ‘rewilding the skin’ and its products are suited to all skin types. Says Esse founder Trevor Steyn: “A healthy microbiome is essential to keep skin looking younger for longer. Rewilding is the science of returning skin to its balanced and ‘wild’ state through biotechnology. Esse helps create the environment for your skin’s natural microbes to flourish, restoring its ecology.
“Your microbiome is an ecosystem of billions of diverse microbes that protect skin from pathogens. Similar to your gut, these bacteria, fungi and viruses have essential roles in protecting you and educating your immune system. They also help skin produce hyaluronic acid and other moisturising factors, while maintaining the skin’s pH and helping produce calm, healthy skin that not only looks better but ages slower.”Steyn particularly recommends the following three products for sensitive skin.
Photo by Almos Bechtold on Unsplash
Sensibiotic complex
24 online @ probeauty.co.za SENSITIVE SKIN
“To counteract inflamm-ageing, the stimulus threshold for sensitive skin must be increased and inflammatory processesRégimA’scontrolled.”Anti-Inflamm-Ageing
Inflammatory processes can have a significant impact on skin ageing. This fact is reflected in the term inflammageing or inflammation ageing. It is essential to be able to fend off foreign substances with acute inflammatory reactions, at all ages.
This rich and replenishing product is ideal for very dry, mature skins, eczema and psoriasis. Natural actives fight against age-related and chronic micro-inflammation. The three main actives, which are part of patented formulations, are balloon vine extract, eperua falcata aubl bark extract, and pichia anomala yeast. Additional ingredients are rosehip fruit oil, blackcurrant seed oil, retinyl palmitate and shea butter.
is an ultra-rich treatment for inflamed, irritated or extremely sensitive skins. It helps to do the following: quickly reduces ageing inflammation, reduces and calms reddened, irritated skins; reduces skin warmth caused by inflammation; protects against skin redness on irritation; reduces incidence of telangiectasia, couperose (broken veins); and improves appearance of rosacea.Inaddition, RégimA’s Anti-Inflamm-Ageing reduces swelling and is super soothing and smoothing. The product has anti-Itch properties, helps increase elasticity and tone, has an anti-sagging activity and protects against oxidative stress
An inflammatory response to irritants is the body’s natural protective reaction, but unfortunately in the repeated responses of hypersensitive skins, this can come at the price of premature skin ageing.” Faucitt goes on to point out that inflammation, allergic responses causing itching, scratching and tissue damage, can be disfiguring, cause physical discomfort and anxiety for the affected individuals, worsening quality of life.
“However,” continues Faucitt, “with advancing age, we pay the price as the immune system produces more inflammatory messengers. It is characterised by underlying, on-going processes, which permanently stress the skin and slowly, but inexorably, cause damage. Skin ageing gains momentum, ‘behind the scenes as such’ under the surface and successful anti-ageing is made more difficult.
On average, 50% of people claim to have sensitive skins that are easily inflamed. Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA warns that if not nipped in the bud, inflammation causes inflamm-ageing, in other words, premature ageing. Therefore, anti-inflamm-ageing is critical. “Sensitive skin is characterised by an impaired skin barrier, with inflammation being triggered more easily, causing the skin to quickly become red, hot, itchy and inflamed.
The new Matis Sensiflora Serum includes the sensibiotic complex – a concentrate of targeted active ingredients that is based on the microbiome and its fragile balance. This serum rebalances the cutaneous ecosystem, and comforts and protects the skin from external aggressions.Intendedfor skins of all ages with sensitive and reactive skin, its fine and silky texture envelops the skin with a comforting feeling. At the heart of this highly active formula is hyaluronic acid of high molecular weight known to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. It hydrates and plumps the epidermis of the most sensitive of skins. A prebiotic stimulates the skin’s natural defenses, rebalances its microbiological barrier and protects the skin’s ecosystem. Saf fron flower is rich in flavonoids, strengthens the skin barrier, protects against inflammatory reactions and reduces feelings of discomfort. A soothing active ingredient rich in polyphenols, mint leaf inhibits the pro-inflammatory mediator’s release, limits the inflammatory cascade and stimulates the production of Overendorphins.time,the skin is soothed, comforted and less and less sensitive. The tolerance of the skin is improved. Also in this Matis range, Sensiflora Cream is based on microbiome analysis and inspired by the latest scientific research. It will rebalance the bioflora and preserve the skin’s barrier. Its soft and delicate texture envelops the skin in a protective cocoon.
Inflamm-ageing
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Ocean-derived
SENSITIVE SKIN biomimetic lipopeptides and a marine neuro-cosmetic innovation to not only increase tolerance but also to moderate the release of stress messengers that cause certain skin reactions. The fifth absolute necessity in this range is the Deeply Nourishing Mask. It is enriched with encapsulatedmicro-borage oil, which infuses fatty acids (Omega-6) drop by drop into the skin, helping to alleviate all feelings of discomfort. Protective shield From Guinot, the Protection Reparatrice cream acts as a protective shield for fragile skin. It is formulated for sensitised skin and soothes irritation and repairs the skin, especially after sun or windAvocadoburn. extract protects and soothes, while the shea butter extract nourishes. Guinot’s protection Reparatrice Cream can be used in the morning and evening, defending the skin against external aggressions.
Photo by cottonbro from Pexels
The experts at Thalgo believe the main driving factor behind dry skin is a lack of water and lipids, all of which impair the skin barrier, and make it more vulnerable to the penetration of external irritants. As a ripple effect, the skin loses its ability to protect itself effectively so it is more fragile and vulnerable.
Cold Cream Marine is a Thalgo breakthrough, using 100% Marine Algae Oil, Algae Wax and Seve Blue des Oceans (marine water taken from over 20 metres deep in the ocean, enriching it with tons of minerals, vitamins and trace elements) to replenish, soothe and repair very dry and sensitive skin for up to 24 hours. Cold Cream Marine not only offers extreme relief and replenishment for the face, but for the body too with both a Face and Body range.TheCold Cream Marine professional facial treatment is a 60-minute ritual of ultimate wellness in the expert hands of a Thalgo beauty therapist as they comfort and soothe the most fragile and delicate skin. Thalgo also offers a whole range of facial products for your sensitive skin client’s home-care routine, such as the Nutri Soothing Cream, which is enriched with Cold Cream Marine to offer guaranteed comfort for 24 hours, to replenish, repair and soothe sensations of tingling, overheating and diffuse redness. Often confused with this cream, is the more intensely moisturising Nutri Soothing Rich Cream, which soothes and repairs very dry and sensitiveReducingskin.the feelings of hypersensitivity in just 10 minutes, the refreshing SOS Soothing Mask with Aloe Vera helps to alleviate discomfort and tightness. Deep within the skin, the plant extract improves skin tolerance to effectively reduce tingling and burning sensations. Another Thalgo Cold Cream Marine star product that increases the skin’s tolerance threshold is the MultiSoothing Concentrate. This 7-day product contains a high concentration of soothing
Photo by Gustavo Fring from Pexels
26 online @ probeauty.co.za SENSITIVE SKIN
copper ferment for accelerated healing, skin restoration, soothing and cell damage repair, as well as firming and anti-inflammatory benefits.Alsosuited to reactive skin, the DermaFix CBD Oil is THC free and offers benefits such as improved skin barrier function, reduced redness and sensitivity, anti-oxidant protection and reduced reactivity. DermaFix HydraSooth SOS can be used as a moisturiser or masque and offers powerful anti-inflammatory properties, reducing skin sensitivity and inflammation whilst aiding in skin recovery.
Probiotic Repairing Booster is packed full of active probiotic ingredients to work at repairing and strengthening the skin day and night. This powerful formula strengthens the barrier of the skin, boosts protein and lipid structures in the skin, whilst accelerating the rate of epidermis renewal.Theaddition of plankton assists in protecting the skin from UV radiation and blue light, to prevent pollutants and toxins penetrating the skin, reducing oxidative stress, protecting the cells and fighting the signs of premature ageing. Ingredients include inulin, lactobacillus ferment, maltodextrin, oligosaccharide, brown seaweed extract, plankton extract and laminaria hyperborean.
The Probiotic Essential Moisturiser is suitable for all skin types. It also has inulin to strengthen the sensitive barrier and prevent infections. Maltodextrin boosts the production of protein and lipid structures in the skin, whilst accelerating the rate of epidermis renewal. Rice bran oil rich in vitamin E moisturises, soothes, repairs and restructures the skin.
The Six Skincare Prebiotic Gentle Wash is a mild cleansing gel that transforms into a luxurious light foam when lathered with a little bit of water. This cleanser removes make-up and dissolves oil on the skin’s surface, whilst nourishing and softening the skin.Prebiotic active ingredients, inulin and oligosaccharide, work with the skin to strengthen the sensitive barrier and prevent infections, all with citric acid providing antioxidant and anti-ageing benefits.
Calming repairingand
Prebiotics
The experts at acknowledgeDermaFix that reactive skin (i.e. red, inflamed, easily irritated and prone to breakouts) can be difficult to treat. Says the brand’s Ursula Volbrecht: “At DermaFix, we have a variety of products specifically formulated for just this concern, including the Hydra-Silk Cleanser, which utilises a host of soothing, calming and repairing ingredients such as aloe vera gel, rosemary extract and chamomile extract, along with moisture balancing and skin hyaluronicprezatidehyaluronicglycosaminoglycansstrengtheningandacid.”DermaFixACCCoppercontainscopperacetate,acidandsaccharomyces
DermaFix MD Mandelic Retexturising Wipes have been formulated for use on reactive skin to achieve superior results, starting with one wipe a week increasing as required. These wipes retexturise the skin with mandelic acid, a larger molecule AHA with decreased incidence of irritation on higher Fitzpatrick skin types. Melanin inhibition is addressed with evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract and rumex extract. Niacinamide is included for moisture balancing, skin barrier protection and acne improvement.
The Esse Sunscreen is an organic mineral sunscreen that’s gentle on your skin and kind to the favoursTrevorwon’tbiodegradableskin.suitablefragrance-freeEsseUVAprotectionbroad-spectrumtintsunblockenvironment.marineItshasasubtleandprovidesSPF30againstandUVBrays.TheformulaisandforsensitiveItisalsoandharmcoralreefs.SaysEssefounder,Steyn:“Sunlightco-evolved
The formulations of RégimA ‘New Age’ Sunscreens include Uvinul A Plus, which shows 95% less free radicals in comparison with other UV filters and which guards against UVA and UVB for the most effective long-term skin protection protecting against erythema (redness) from sunburn. It works in synergy with Uvinul T150 for the most Esse
Steyn further notes that although vitamin D, which plays an important part in skin health and general health can be supplemented and found in certain foods, sunshine is considered the best source for the body to maintain optimal health. “It’s important not to expose skin to sunlight for an extended period. There is a point during sun exposure referred to as the minimal erythemal dose (MED), the point at which the first hints of redness can be seen. After reaching the MED, further sun exposure will not be beneficial, and vitamin D will no longer be made.”
microbes over pathogens, so to attain a balanced microbiome, you need some unprotected sun exposure balanced with sun protection that supports – rather than destroys – your skin’s microbiome. This is the naturally occurring protective layer that can be disrupted by using chemical-laden sun creams.”
Most people wrongly focus solely on the SPF factor within a product when deciding what would be the best choice of skin/ sun protection, according to RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt. She explains: “SPF means ‘sun protection factor’ and refers only to protection against UVB radiation. It has nothing to do with UVA radiation that penetrates deep into the skin, accelerating skin ageing and is known as ‘the silent killer’, as it can cause skin cancer. This UVA burning is not“Highervisible.SPF products produce small increases in realworld SPF. But even this small change allows sunbathers to stay in the sun longer – and absorb more overall radiation before a sunburn sends them indoors. In the process, the substantially greater amounts of sunscreen chemicals in higher SPF products can penetrate the skin and lead to much higher internal exposures to potentially hazardous compounds. The user is left with a burn and a significantly higher ‘body burden’ of sunscreen chemicals.”
RégimA
28 online @ probeauty.co.za SUNSCREENS
Here comesthe sun
Photo by Andrea Piacquadio from Pexels
The dangers of the skin’s overexposure to sunlight have been well documented over the past few years, prompting a rise in the use of sunscreens. In South Africa, where strong sunshine is part of daily living, the regular use of sunscreen is important for all ages
LCN The LCN Sun Protection Cream SPF45 features an innovative formulation that provides a sensational feeling to the skin. Due to its low fat basic formula, this cream is also suitable for warm and humid regions. A high end 2-in-1 product, the cream offers perfect care and reliable protection for the face, body and hands. The texture is extremely light, fast absorbing and non-greasy with an enticing fragrance.
An optimal balance between mineral and non-mineral filters is needed to ensure maximum tolerability and cosmetic compliance. Sunsphere Technology increases the effectiveness of the filters, permitting reduced quantities of filters and thus lowering the potential risk of sensitisation and allergies and improving cosmetic characteristics.
A unique solar, water-resistant protectant sunscreen for all skin types, the DermaFix DermaShield SPF50 Broad Spectrum UVA/ UVB/HEV Light Protection Sunscreen protects with a combination of active ingredients to protect the skin from UV radiation and HEV light. Avobenzone, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide work in synergy to effectively shield the skin and prevent the breakdown of collagen, weakening of elastin, skin sagging, thickening, development of hyperpigmentation and skin cancers. For an anti-oxidant boost that’ll enhance UV protection, use DermaFix Ferulic + C + E every third day in combination with DermaFix
Heliocare From Heliocare, the Advanced Gel SPF 50 (Oil-Free) is a topical sun protection gel in an innovative lightweight formulation that is quickly and uniformly absorbed to protect the skin against daily environmental challenges.
29online @ probeauty.co.za SUNSCREENS
The Broad Spectrum Anti Ageing Fluid SPF50+ with UVA and UVB protection from Six Skincare is an environmentally friendly SPF with a luxury light non sticky feel. A variety of highly active ingredients have been formulated in a pool of submicroemulsion, meaning that the SPF maximises the yield of sun filters by decreasing their concentration in order to obtain the same SPF value. Less sun filters means less of an environmental impact and the greater the efficiency of the formulation. It protects the skin against sun damage whilst boosting collagen within the skin and contains carnosine, aloe leaf and rocket seed
The Broad Spectrum Moisturising Cream SPF50+ with UVA and UVB has the same features as above but also contains hyaluronic acid.
DermaFix DermaFix offers sun protection formulations approved by SANS with two different finishes to suit any skin. The DermaShield SPF40 – Zinc Oxide Broad Spectrum UVA/UVB/HEV Light Protection Sunscreen is an extremely popular oil-free, non-acnegenic formulation utilizing Z-COTE®; a form of microfine zinc oxide that is invisible when applied to the skin. This ingredient blocks both UVB and UVA rays.
Six Skincare
well-balancedDermaShield.dailyprotection regime. Uvinul T150 shows a good affinity with keratin in the skin, providing some water resistant properties. It also has exceptionally high absorptivity of UVB radiation. Tinosorb S is a most efficient oil soluble broad-spectrum UV filter, providing lasting protection due to its excellent photostability.
Key ingredients include Fernblock, a natural plant extract from Central America with proven photoprotective properties, and technologically advanced filters that provide broadspectrum UVA/UVB protection.
Guinot Guinot’s Sun Logic SPF 30 is an anti-ageing sun cream for your face. This advanced sunscreen prepares the skin before sun exposure and protects it while exposed to the sun, resulting in minimising the harmful effects of the sun. Sun Logic fights photo-ageing by preserving the skin and protecting it against sun burn. The product helps prevent ageing due to its broadspectrum sun protection and ingredients that have anti-ageing properties as well. Additionally, the Sun Logic range protects against blue light rays.
• Bring about accountability, responsibility and trust to the patients that are treated by the therapist; and
Advanced Aesthetic Therapist 4th year, with specialisation in Advanced Aesthetic Treatments
Somatologist and academic Yolandé
• Maintain standards against which the professionals subscribe, and as the main considering factor for the safety of patients;
In South Africa, the beauty and skincare industry offers various levels of qualifications, not often understood by the consumer and employer. A clear scope of practice for each qualification helps to identify which procedures, actions and processes an individual is permitted to perform.
Beauty Therapist 2-year Beauty qualification
Scope practiceof
Photo by Karelys Ruiz on Unsplash
Guidelines for the advanced aesthetictherapist
Each designation has its own scope of practice as a guideline to ensure the safety of the client/ patient and the therapist/ somatologist.
Beauty Technologist 1-year Beauty qualification
Determining what is and is not part of your scope of practice will be guided by a professional body.
Many professional industries rely on a scope of practice to ensure the safety of the patient and therapist, and to:
Somatologist 3-year Somatology qualification
An individual’s scope of practice is based on the qualification completed, their experience and demonstrated competence. SAAHSP, the government appointed professional body for the Skin, Body and Nailcare industry, has registered the following designations.
30 online @ probeauty.co.za AESTHETIC MEDICINE
DESIGNATION QUALIFICATION TYPE
• Protect both the therapist and the patient by providing boundaries within which to function.
A three-tiered system of classification based on the risk to the patient/ client is advised to define the scope of practice for the Advanced Aesthetic Therapist.
Qualifications
ccording to a research study conducted by Grand View Research (2022), the Global Aesthetic medicine market size, valued at $99.1 billion in 2021, is expected to grow at a CAGR (Compound Annual Growth Rate) of 14.5% from 2022 to 2030 to $332.1 billion. The non-invasive procedures segment dominated the market in 2021, with a share of over 50% and is expected to grow at the fastest CAGR over the forecast period. Together with this growth, the demand for well qualified somatologists is increasing as more are working alongside medical practitioners, to assist with and perform selected non-invasive procedures offered at medical aesthetic clinics. This has put the spotlight on the scope of practice of the somatologist working in this specialised field. The beauty industry originated with the focus being on skills orientated beauty treatments. Thereafter, the spa industry brought a more holistic approach to dealing with clients, focusing not only on the skill being performed, but also on the total well-being of the client. The move to non-invasive results orientated treatments that are backed by clinical research, requires a more scientific approach to skin and body treatments. As such, the somatologist is now able to impact the deeper layers of the skin, increasing the chance of complications occurring. In 2003, the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery conducted a study to determine the quality and safety of treatments performed by nonphysicians such as aestheticians. The study was prompted by reports from the medical professional community relating to numerous complaints from patients seeking remedial treatment as a result of complications from laser and light-based treatments, rejuvenation techniques, chemical peels, microdermabrasion and injectables performed without adequate training or supervision.
Standards, responsibility and protection
Swanepoel explains what aesthetic treatments should be performed by doctors and what can be performed by advanced aesthetic therapists in clinics
References • Brody, H., & Geronemus, R., Farris, P. (2003). Beauty Versus Medicine: The Nonphysician Practice of Dermatologic Surgery. American Society for Dermatologic Surgery. 29. 319-324. • Kashyap, A. (2022). Aesthetic Medicine Market Analysis & Segment Forecast to 2030. • South African Association of Health and Skincare Professionals. (2022). Designations. Available online: https://www.saahsp.com/designations • USA: Grand View Research Inc. Available online: medical-aesthetics-market.https://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/
and
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as
Working in the medical aesthetics industry requires commitment to professional and ethical practices and is based on mutual trust between the patient and the advanced aesthetic therapist. A scope of practice clearly defines any activities you carry out within your professional role, provided you have the knowledge, skills and experience to do them lawfully, safely and effectively. This provides reassurance to the patient and protection to the advanced aesthetic therapist and the practice. Yolandé Swanepoel is the Academic Head of the Isa Carstens Academy. She is an experienced Somatologist and obtained her Master of Technology in Somatology through the University of Johannesburg. She has 26 years of experience in Health and Skincare Education and serves on the SAAHSP Board co-opted Professional Body Coordinator and serves on the SAAHSP CPD Designations committee.
Note: SAAHSP provides a detailed scope of practice guideline for each designation. The above table only indicates the scope of practice of the Advanced Aesthetic Therapist.
TREATMENT 1LEVEL 2LEVEL 3LEVEL PRACTICESCOPEOUTSIDEOF Electrotherapy Galvanic Current X High Frequency X Microcurrent X Ultrasound for aesthetic procedures X Exfoliation / Skin Peeling Exfoliation (non-invasive) X Microdermabrasion X Dermaplane X Chemical Peeling – Superficial, Level 1 frosting only. X Chemical Peeling – Medium Depth, Level 1 and 2 frosting X Chemical Peeling – Deep X Hair removal / reduction Electrical Epilation –Diathermy/Blend X Waxing X Threading X IPL X Laser X Skin Rejuvenation Laser – non-ablative treatment (e.g., brown spots, pigmentary disorders, facial vessels, redness, tattoos) X Laser - Ablative X Laser - Fractional X IPL X Microneedling 0.25mm – 1mm (Epidermal) X Microneedling up to 2mm (Epidermal and Dermal) X Needless mesotherapy X Mesotherapy (transdermal) X Radio Frequency X Radio Frequency (Fractional) X Body Sculpting Radio Frequency X Radio Frequency – Monopolar X Radio Frequency – Vaginal Rejuvenation X Shockwave Therapy X Cryotherapy – fat freezing X LED X PDT using (AminolaevullinicALA Acid) X Injectables Neuromodulators X Tissue Dermal Fillers X Sclerotherapy X Platelet Rich Injectables X Level1 Procedures either cosmetic in nature or minimally invasive and may be performed without medical supervision. Level2 Procedures are intermediate in nature and may be performed with a consulting medical practitioner, without direct medical supervision. Level3 Procedure may only be performed under direct medical supervision. Medical practitioner needs to be on site. TREATMENT 1LEVEL 2LEVEL 3LEVEL PRACTICESCOPEOUTSIDEOF Other Minor skin lesion removal (Epilation, Lamprobe, Plasma Devices) X Plasma devices (spot treatments only, no full-face treatments or blepharoplasty)non-surgical X Pigment implantations X Injecting Anaesthetic X IV Drips X Taking blood for PRP X Extractions X Capillary treatment with diathermy method X Acupuncture / dry needling X Podiatry / Chiropody X Any skin procedure involving cutting of living tissue X UV radiation (treatment of skin diseases) X Removal of warts and moles X Treatment of varicose veins X Carboxytherapy X Heat therapy X Manual Lymph drainage X
Conclusion
021 701 2900 In the market Our round-up of new products and treatments
086 128 2323 Firm
Wipe away DermaFix MD Mandelic Retexturising Wipes have an advanced formulation comprised of ingredients designed to retexturise, soothe and calm the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and pigmentation and improve the appearance of acne. Suited to all skins, the wipes contain niacinamide, evodia rutaecarpa and rumex extract. and Gatineau’s Defi Lift Firming Oil works to reveal a more defined and lifted profile, all while bathing the complexion with a profusion of age-defying and nutrient rich goodness. Its highperformance formula is powered by next generation peptides, which help the skin to deal with the daily onslaught of life, as in stress, pollution and growing old.
The
lift
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The Derca Scar Repair Serum will transform your client’s skin, containing active ingredients such as vitamin A and vitamin C. This wound healing serum has been clinically proven to improve appearancethe of stretch marks, scar tissue recovery.clientlasermicroneedlinguseishyperpigmentation.andItperfectforinsalonwithandtreatments,orforhomecare 021 5512409
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Mother Earth Perfumer
Well-known professional makeup artist Ryno Mulder has introduced the Icon Foundation into his Makeup by Ryno range. It includes SPF 50+, is hydrating and gives a radiant finish and age-defying look. With high coverage for skin imperfections, the foundation can also be used as body makeup to create the look of flawless legs. It is vegan & cruelty-free.
Madalina Heneck of Wild Olive Artisans and landscape architect Johanna Gibbons RDI have been on a four-year-long journey to capture the scent of soil. Together they have created a powerful and visceral perfume called Erde (‘Mother Earth’ in Anglo Saxon) and hope it makes sensory connections with fragile ecologies and landscapes that we should all nurture. 422 2777
Beautiful bases
33online @ probeauty.co.za PRODUCT NEWS
Real repair
071 688 0242 exfoliationEffective The ComplexCleansingPolish from iS Clinical exfoliation.biochemicalphysicalacidextractspowerfulcombinedcellulosemicroparticleseco-friendlyfoamynaturalstrippingwithoutandcleansesthoroughlythesurfaceporesoftheskindryingoressentialoils.Thislight,gelcontainsofandjojobawithbotanicalandsalicylictoprovidebothand 086 117 8376
Expressive
Tress-a-licious news from the hair front curls
hibiscusincludeOtherthelastingprovidinghairofHighmoisturisingitspower.concentrationsupto3%,helptheholdontowater,long-hydrationondriestfibres.ingredientsUreaHandseed. 011 286 0700
Schwarzkopf Professional’s Bonacure Clean Performance range is formulated with Vegan Care Complex (i.e. Vegan Keratin and Cell Equalizer technologies), together with skincare actives to guarantee beautiful results across all hair types. Products are free from sulphates, silicones, parabens, mineral oils, microplastics and artificial colourants. Packaging is sustainable. 011 617 2467 Absolute colour From Kérastase, Chroma Absolu employs breakthrough hair science to deliver formulas that penetrate hair fibre to the very core, strengthening, resurfacing, de-frizzing and maintaining colour intensity. Its acid-based approach is led by an ancient bio-driven herb, centella asiatica (a soothing antioxidant), combined with three bio-based acids: amino acids, lactic acid and tartaric acid. 011 286 0700
L’Oréal Professionnel Paris introduces Curl Expression superchargeto curls and coils. The product is formulated with glycerin of natural origin – a humectant that is known for
1721
Crowningglory
34 online @ probeauty.co.za HAIR NEWS
Super silk
012
Vegan keratin
The JapaneseProfessionalG.HairSilk Super Food Hair Treatment is a hair reconstructiveaminoartichokeflaxseedquinoawheatgermsweetberry,superfoodsformulatedshaftskin/penetrationenhancedtechnologyencapsulationnanoacceleratorgrowthwithandforintothescalp,hairpores,andfollicle.Itiswithlikegojiblueberry,cherry,extract;extract,extract,extractandacidsforaction. 346
NAIL FILE ISSUE 55 SEPTEMBER 2022 CHOOSING THE RIGHT BRAND Spoiltforchoice HANDSON CREAMSHAND JIGSAWPUZZLE SCHEDULINGSTAFF
36 online @ probeauty.co.za WELCOME
ne that your salon runs smoothly and that your staff are utilised for maximum effect. We include an article on this very topic in this issue. The owners of new salons, or in fact of salons that are wanting to change brands, are faced with an overwhelming choice to choose from. So, other than obviously selecting a reputable and professional brand, how do you go about choosing one that is the right fit for your salon?
Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
thing that has always fascinated me is how salon yetlogisticalappointments.varioustoschedulemanagerstheirtherapistsfitinwithalltheirclientIt’squiteapuzzletosortoutsonecessarytoensure
Photo by Cleyton Ewerton from Pexels INSIDE
An article written by an expert provides some valuable pointers. A really handy (pardon the pun) retail item for any salon is that of hand creams. We include in this issue a special focus on nourishing and moisturising creams from leading brands.
What’s
38 Industry News Stay in the know 39 Ask the Experts Scheduling staff 40 Business A critical decision 41 All hands on deck Hand creams 42 - 43 Step by Steps Royal leaves Neon hearts 44 Product Hub Latest products 45 Top Tech Talk Renaisha Moodley Jugath@PROBEAUTYZA @PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA
Bio Sculpture launches new nail art course
The creative division of Bio Sculpture launched its new Nail Art Course at the recent Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo. Says Bio Sculpture founder, Elmien Scholtz: “The course designers wanted to open doors to nail techs’ artistry, innovation, originality and individuality in the world of nails and fashion. These techniques will add great value to your work and open endless personalised possibilities. It’s important to remember that fashion has no rules.
“Nail art is an artistic and uniquely creative way to paint, gel, build, enhance, embellish and decorate your client’s nails. Due to Bio Sculpture’s unique texture and curing properties, painstakingly detailed nail art techniques can be easily achieved.”
38 online @ probeauty.co.za NEWS
A surge in global awareness about nail care is boosting the market, which is expected to grow at a CAGR (Compound Annual Growth Rate) of 8.0% over the next nineThisyears.isthe finding of a study by Transparency Market Research (TMR), which reveals that pedicures and manicures are being increasingly adopted worldwide, as these services cause minimum damage to nail beds. The TMR study also notes an increase in the use of latest nail finishes, including glitter polishes, matte top coats and magnetic nail polish in several developing nations. Moreover, gel manicures or extensions have gained immense impetus in the past few years. This factor is expected to drive sales growth in the global nail care market during the forecast period. One of the key reasons boosting the popularity of gel manicures among clients includes the polish-like appearance of acrylic. Several enterprises in the nail manufacturing industry are investing heavily in research so as to develop products that are specifically intended for the older populace, according to the TMR report. Furthermore, companies in the nail care market are increasing R&D spend in order to provide next-gen products that can moisturise, strengthen and make nails smooth. The demand for nail moisturisers and nail cleansers is increasing, specifically among the elderly customer pool as nails become brittle due to age. (Source: https://www.transparencymarketresearch.com)PhotobyRodnaeProductionsfromPexels
Photo by Cheda Stankovic from Pexels
Nail care market set to reach $23.1 billion by 2031, says new study
Types of nail art are defined by Bio Sculpture as flat, textured, top surface, 2D, 3D and encapsulated. The course looks at how fashion and the seasons influence nail art, as well the impact that social media has on trends. A big part of the course is devoted to understanding colours and the colour wheel. Additionally, the course includes information on the various art products and tools that are available.Someof the techniques covered in the course include ombre, tie dye, treading twists, marbling and the use of gems, foils and glitter.
39online @ probeauty.co.za Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business How do I schedule my staff’s hours effectively and fairly, ensuring they stay productive?
t is so important that your staff’s working hours are scheduled appropriately to ensure you get sufficient productivity from them, but it can be quite challenging. For instance, it’s all good and well if your salon is open 10 to 12 hours a day, but you can’t expect your staff to work long hours without a break.
BUSINESS TIPS
Overtime
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for over 30 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.
Timing is everything, so know when your busiest times and days are. It’s no use having most of your staff scheduled at times and on days when you are not busy; it demotivates staff when they become bored. Skills Make sure you schedule the correct variety of staff depending on their skills and the treatments they perform, to ensure you have the right people to accommodate your clients’ needs.
Photobest.by Andrea Piacquadio from Pexels
Timing
According to employment laws, there are a certain number of hours that a nail professional is required to work in a day, week or month, and it is important to adhere to those. In order to best serve your clients, you and your staff will need to make sure consistent schedules are maintained.
The relationships you create with your staff are so important in getting the most out of them and how they cooperate with you and your requests. Have a friendly and open relationship with your staff, but be careful not to get too involved with them. Be professional and treat everyone equally. If you’re seen as favouring certain employees and giving them extra perks, you may lose the respect of others and they may not be so willing to go the extra mile for you. Also remember to be fair when assigning new clients, and don’t favour certain staff saying that they are the
Systems Have proper systems in place. There are some great software systems available to assist you with scheduling your staff effectively.
Creating relationships
Make sure to account for overtime, should you request your staff to work overtime. Reward them and remunerate them accordingly because if you don’t, they won’t be so willing to agree to work those additional hours when you require them to.
Communicate with your staff with regards to scheduling and make sure they understand how you go about it and the systems that are in place. It is important to make sure you get their buy in, their cooperation and commitment.
If your salon only has one or two staff members and you yourself are one of them, you will need to make sure you are able to accommodate your clients and their needs at all times, while simultaneously considering each other’s skills, travel arrangements and personal commitments.
Having a larger staff complement can makes things a little easier, however that’s only if the scheduling is planned properly and taking the following various factors into consideration.
Communicate
Up to date
Quality I am of the opinion that one of the most important factors to consider is good quality products. You cannot put a price tag on quality. Nowadays clients not only want their nails to look magazine ready after visiting the nail salon, but more than ever they are taking the health of their natural nails and skin into consideration. Your natural nails should not be damaged, thin and sore under a set of gel or acrylic nails. The healthy condition of your natural nails should be maintained and monitored with each visit to the salon.
A decisioncritical
ow, more than ever, deciding which nail brand to choose for your salon can be very overwhelming due to the vast competition in the nail and beauty industry. New products are frequently introduced into the market, either from local or international suppliers. Avoid letting this cloud your vision and keep on track with what’s important to you and your business when selecting a brand to work with.
There are a few things to consider before choosing a brand, so put pen to paper and outline what is important to you.
Training and support Often good training and customer support is overlooked. In the nail and beauty industry you can never know enough, you are never fully and completely trained. Look for a brand that will offer on-going training, online workshops and application workshops, or nail art workshops that stay in line with the latest trends and techniques.Doyourresearch and look for a brand that wants to see you grow in the nail industry, a brand that will empower you and help turn you into the best nail technician that you can be. Tania Biddle is the founder and owner of the award-winning Plush Nails & Beauty Salon in Roodepoort. Biddle is also the head of education for Bio Sculpture.
With being so spoilt for choice in the nail industry, it’s quite a complex issue to know which product brand to go with. Tania Biddle of the award-winning Plush Nails & Beauty provides some useful tips
40 online @ probeauty.co.za BUSINESS TIPS
Image by Gerd Altmann from Pixabay
Partnership Choosing a brand means you will partner with that particular brand. Do your research and find a brand that will give you what you need. Look for a brand that will support you and your business, a brand that is willing to walk the path with you.
Expectation Decide what your main expectation from a brand is. Is it the health and the condition of the natural nail, colour options and variety, different product options, gel or acrylic based products, or trendy nail art products? Once you have decided what type of service it is that you want to offer and what your main focus is with regards to the treatment and end result, it will guide you to select a brand that shares the same vision as you do.
With all the available social media and communication channels, these days change is instant. So, look for a brand that stays on trend, keeps up to date with the latest technology and offers the latest and best that the nail industry has to offer.
41online @ probeauty.co.za RETAIL
The Calgel All In One Hand Cream is a perfect handbag size for formulaoncentratedcustomer.on-the-gotheItscontains all the neededingredientstogive an all-round treatment.handNot only is it anti-ageing, but it also
DermaFix For dry, crêpey and dull skin on the hands, the DermaFix Skin Resq is a next leavingprotection,skinResqandskinprotection,superiorandmurumuruemollientweightless,generationnourishingblendwithseedbutterCoQ10offersanti-oxidantsustainingmoisture,hydrationsuppleness.Skinpenetratesintotheforalldaywithoutagreasyfilm. 2323
If ever there was an essential product for nail salons to stock, it’s hand cream. Not only is hand cream used to pamper the client’s hands following manicures and enhancements, it is also an excellent product for nail salons to retail, being a highly attractive home care item
andvera,anti-oxidants,creamandnourishes,protects,hydratessoftens.Thecontainsaloeemollientsmore. 011 624 1101
Allonhandsdeck
Calgel
LCN LCN’s Anti Age Hand moisture.providesglycerinjojobapanthenol,skinnourishesCreamthewithoilandandElastin is included to positively affect the skin’s own elastin fibres within the connective tissue. In this way, the formation of wrinkles is reduced and the skin appears younger, tighter and more elastic again. 010 593 3293 Depilève The
theoftenlightenSpot-LightGatuline®ingredientscontainshandTheradiantthewrinkles,opticallyelasticitycream.anti-blemishbrighteningcreamBrightCerazymeDepilèveSofthandisaandhandItimprovesandplumpsensuringskinismorethanever.SoftBrightcreamalsoliketohelpagespotsfoundonhands. 262 2451 Bio Sculpture
011
086 128
Ideal for the client’s handbag, the new and improved Bio Sculpture Hand Cream contains a UV sun-filter for protection as well as essential oils and moisturisers to nourish and shield the hands. It is suitable for all skin types. 051 943 0377
Photo by Karolina Grabowska from Pexels
Step 2 Apply the peach colour at the top corner of the nail using a thin nail art brush. Step 5 Draw the leaves using the same black painting gel and brush you used for the stem and then randomly apply fine glitters and finally, the top coat.
Royal
Step 1 Apply rubber base, then follow with a white gel. Actually, it can be any colour of your choice, but I prefer white on this design.particular Step 4 Using a nail.thecanapaintingblackgelandthinbrush,younowdrawstemontothe
Sthembiso Promise Shongwe hails from theandMpumalanga,Nelspruit,hasbeeninbeauty industry for more than two decades. Every day she finds new ways to improve and evolve her art, as she believes it opens her heart and mind to possibilities and fuels her imagination. Seeing clients overjoyed with the nail art she has created gives her great pleasure.
42 online @ probeauty.co.za STEP BY STEP
Step 3 Apply the pastel green samecolour,sidessmallRandomlynailusingpeachparallelcolourtothecolour,athinartbrush.placedotsontheofeachusingthebrush.
This nail art design, which uses a background of white nails and random pastel colours with glitters and black leaves, was created by Sthembiso Promise Shongwe
Leaves
Then, using a nail art brush, drag the dots you have placed into a heart shape. You can make them as big as you would like, and place as many hearts on the nail as desired. I used Calgel + M01WH. Cure. Step 6 You can also use one of the neon colours as a base instead of using the beige colour. This will give a different effect. You could also use a glossy top gel (like youmattegel)non-wipeCalgeltopinsteadoftopgelifprefer.
43online @ probeauty.co.za Elaine Timcke is the sales & (Pty)Calgel/managermarketingofCal-MoLtd.
Step 5
Step 1 After doing a proper applyapplication,andpreparationnailbasegel2layers of beige colour gel. I used Calgel + S01BE. Cure after each gel application.layer
Step 4 Repeat the above step by applying a neon colour gel over the cured white hearts. Ensure you leave a thin white Calgel.coloureditionthewouldcoloursusehearts.aroundoutlinetheneonYoucanasmanyasyoulike.Iusedlimited-neongelsfromCure
Step 3
Step 2 Using a dotting tool, apply 3 white dots as shown in the image.
Finish by adding a layer of matte top gel. After curing, wipe the sticky residue to reveal the matte finish. I beigeheartsdesignnailsThethecoloursjust2applyingrecommendatleastto3nailswiththeneonusedonwhitehearts.restofthewillbetheoftheonthenails.
This vivid and striking design was created by Elaine Timcke
Our of latest product launches in the exciting world of nails
ProductHub
44 online @ probeauty.co.za
011 624 1101 Nature rules! Available from 12 September, Bio Sculpture’s latest Biogel’s collection, The Pride of Nature, is described as ‘a work of art with nature’s colours’. They are: 290 – Island Clay; 291 – Golden Fall; 292 –Spectrolite; 293 – Lake Louise; 294 – Oyster Shell; 295 – Icebergs; 296 –Seafoam; and 297 –Sakura Blossoms. 051 943 0377 Paradise now LCN’s new trend colours collection, Bora Bora, was inspired by the world-famous paintings of French post-impressionist, Paul Gauguin, whose depictions of the South Pacific stylise an exotic and earthly paradise. Characterised by truly strong colours, Gauguin created tropical desires. Colours are: Bora Bora Dreams; Blue Lagoon; Seashell; Sandy Beach, Coral Beach and Hibiscus. 010 593 3293 Photo by Kartik Gada from Pexels
011 262 2451 Gel it up Calgel’s Plus Pearl Shine colour gel can transform any of the brand’s existing colour gels, or be used on its own. It can be applied over any shade for a seashell ‘veil’ effect to completely change the look and feel of a colour. The white pearl gel P09WH is best used on its own, or as a base for the other pearl shine colours. It can also be used over any dark colour gel for a more metallic finish.
The good life Lime Light and Hands Down have launched their first product offering within the Spa Life range with professional manicure and pedicure tools, as well as the Mani & Pedi Neutralizing Soak and the Resurfacing Peel for hands, feet, elbows and knees. These cruelty free products were formulatedproudlyby a giant in AubreyProfessorindustry,cosmeceuticaltheParsons.
the
round-up
IN THE MARKET
About 80% of my business is nail treatments. I decided to pursue make-up as I’ve always had a passion for it and it’s is a nice add-on to express my creativity.
45online @ probeauty.co.za
Unfortunately, our nail industry is inconsistent on price and quality. There are many training institutions offering below par qualifications. This then ripples down to unqualified nail technicians performing sub-standard
NailFile talks to salon owner, Renaisha Moodley Jugath, about the dynamics of running a homebased business
Q&A
How have you found business this year? Has it pickedup and are you nearly back to pre-Covid numbers?
We are still feeling the after-effects of Covid unfortunately. Business is up and down as our economy is struggling to stabilise. So I am not back to my pre-Covid numbers as yet. Many clients chose to do their own nails at home during lockdown and maintained this strategy until now. I launched my own range of press on nails to cater for those clients who didn’t want to come into the salon. This resulted in new clientele. I am, however, grateful that we are able to work and do what we love.
I believe that in addition to being a nail technician,you are also a make-up artist. What percentage ofyour business is nails as opposed to make-up services?
TechTop Talk
What do you think are the biggest challenges facingthe nail industry?
I love the before and after of a client’s nails and how wonderful a new set of nails makes you feel and look. The nail art I also really love. We can express ourselves through our nails as the ideas are endless. Your nail journey began in 2003 – how didyou get to that point and what first sparkedyour interest in nails?
Did you work at other salons beforeopening your own?
46 online @ probeauty.co.za
No, not in the near future. I feel more in control with a home-based salon in terms of my time and space.
I had always taken care of my nails and painted them with nail polish. A friend had taken me to her sister for a Bio Sculpture French gel overlay and I was so fascinated by the technology. Non chip, long-lasting, beautiful nails in comparison to me painting my nails every other day. After doing some research on nail training, I decided to do a course to learn this skill. I was really excited about the possibilities and did my first course with Bio Sculpture KZN, with Stephanie Henning. Stephanie left a big impression and really encouraged me to pursue this venture. I thereafter did various acrylic courses and refresher workshops with Nail Artistry, Young Nails and Ezflow Nail Systems.Mypassion is all things nails and people. I enjoy working with both acrylic and gel nail systems, with nail art being my favourite. As the years go on I am still constantly learning and enjoying every moment of it.
I worked in a home-based hair salon in Durban when I first began. I gained so much of my experience there and will be forever grateful to Reena Gopaul for the opportunity she gave me. For this reason I would highly recommend starting your nail career in a busy salon as you are exposed to all types of scenarios, which will in turn give you invaluable experience. You have lots of motivational comments onyour Instagram page – please comment. We are all striving for goals each day. I find that something
In what year did you open Polished! –your salon in Centurion? I opened my salon in 2008 and operated by the name of RMJ Nail and Training Studio, as I was qualified as an Ezflow Master Educator. At a later stage I decided to rebrand to include my make-up artistry and Polished! was then launched. I wanted my clients to feel pampered and looking their absolute best after a visit to my salon.
Why did you want to open your ownsalon?
What would you say are the mainissues associated with running ahome-based salon?
What do you most enjoy about doing nails?
I wanted to be my own boss as I’ve always had an entrepreneurial spirit. My salon needed to be an exclusive space where clients could just relax and enjoy their treatment. A one-on-one appointment allows this type of atmosphere.
Q&A nail treatments, which gives our products and treatments a negative connotation. I believe that the nail industry must try to fix this disparity urgently. We need clients to want to do their nails and not avoid services due to bad experiences, as this affects all of us as a whole.
Unfortunately, there tend to be no boundaries when you are at home. As a wife, mum, businesswoman and home executive, my day is very full. Clients tend to disregard your time, so you do need to be strict about your working hours and make bookings by appointment only. I am incredibly grateful that I am flexible and that I can plan my days accordingly. I work alone and prefer it that way as I am never short of great conversations with my beautiful clients each day. In addition, I also have a wonderful circle of nail technician friends and mentors that I can liaise with regularly.
Do you eventually plan to open asalon that’s not in your home?
Are you interested in providing training onnails to others?
Yes, I was, but did not pursue it into high school. I am now able to express this creativity through many avenues.
Q&A47
I really enjoy abstract and free hand designs and love my clients to wear trendy and unique looks, as it’s always a conversation starter.
inspirational and positive can motivate you to do better. A word of encouragement will get you through a tough day and move you onto the next. Prayer and positive thinking have allowed me the success I have. There is always more to this life, and we must believe that.
You offer both acrylic and gel services –which is the more popular among yourclients?
Bio Sculpture, Crystal Clawz, Glampro, Maskscara, QD Nails, Valentino Beauty Pure and Young Nails. I really am spoilt for choice and enjoy working with reputable brands. Plus, I regularly attend training courses as things are constantly changing and improving in our industry. To offer a great service, I need to be up to date with current techniques and trends. It is imperative that we upskill ourselves.
Foil art is popular now. It is simple yet elegant and a very versatile nail art medium. I enjoy using it on its own, or adding it to a design.
What sort of nail art is currently mostpopular with your clients?
You mentioned previously that youabsolutely love nail art – do most ofyour clients request nail art?
Both nail systems are popular. It really depends on what works for the client and also the medium needed for specific nail art techniques. An acrylic base with a gel polish over it is also a choice of many clients.
My client asked me to do a set of nails from the movie ‘It’. This was a challenge, but I managed to execute it. A lot of detail and effort goes into something like this so you do need patience and time. I am a perfectionist and try my best to achieve a great outcome.
Yes, they most certainly do. Some want more complex designs than others but I do enjoy a challenge. Certain nail shapes and colours are a statement in themselves.
What style or type of nail art do you mostenjoy doing?
What nail brand/s do you offer in thesalon?
Please describe the most challenging pieceof nail art you’ve ever had to do.
I would love to share my knowledge with aspiring nail technicians. It is important to learn things the correct way. I have found there is always something you can improve on and do better with. While I am currently not conducting any nail training, if the opportunity arises, I will gladly accept.
Were you good at art at school?
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