AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS
Incorporating
NAIL FILE
ROI READY
Multiplatform devices
THIRST TRAP
The
Hydrating skincare
Right Stuff
DO YOUR STAFF HAVE IT?
July 2022 | probeauty.co.za
CONTENTS
IN THIS ISSUE Regulars 7
Industry news
Local and international news
37
Crowning glory
Features 26
A cold (and very dry) snap Hydrating treatments
Focus on hair
38
In the market
Make-up
Latest product launches
24
Top tips for applying theatre make-up
Business
Stage craft
13
Ask the Experts
How to start a professional product line
Aesthetic Medicine
15
Nose on point
30
Laws of attraction
Non-surgical rhinoplasty
Hiring and retaining the right staff
32
The all-in-ones
Multi-platform devices
Sustainability 20
How much will green cost me? Sustainability on a budget
18
How beauty devices fit into facial regimes Different technologies unpacked
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Spa Focus 22
Location, location, location Choosing the right spot for your spa
Nails 39
NailFile Issue 53
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WELCOME NAIL FILE
Photo by Matheus Henrin from Pexels
By the end of this August, it will have been two whole, pandemic-filled years since Professional Beauty has been able to host its flagship Johannesburg Expo at Gallagher Convention Centre. As this is event is the lifeblood of our business, it is with great excitement that the Professional Beauty team is planning a triumphant return to Gallagher, on 28 and 29 August 2022. Traditionally, the expo attracts thousands of beauty, spa, nail and aesthetics professionals, all keen to be exposed to the latest products, technologies and trends. And, as always, gatherings of this nature are a welcome opportunity for like-minded people to get together and network. We look forward to seeing you all there. A particular dynamic of the salon and spa industry is the high rate of therapists chopping and changing jobs on a fairly regular basis, which is always disruptive for business. That’s why it’s vital that spa and salon managers implement strategies not only to attract the right kind of staff, but also to retain them. We include a useful article written by a beauty business expert on this very topic. Now that we find ourselves in the bleak midWinter, beauty professionals and clients alike will feel that familiarly unpleasant dry and taught feeling on their skin, as the cold air ravages our complexions. For that reason, we run in this issue, a special feature on hydrating treatments and products. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
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Publisher Mark Moloney mark@probeauty.co.za Managing Director Yolanda Knott 011 781 5970 yolanda@probeauty.co.za Commercial Director Philip Woods 084 759 2024 phil@probeauty.co.za Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 083 411 8512 joanna@probeauty.co.za Marketing Manager Stacey Platt stacey@tetradeevents.com Sales Executive Marike O’Reilly 083 631 4907 marike@professionalbeauty.org.za Sales Consultant Charlene Dickson 079 116 3262 charlene@professionalbeauty.org.za Operations Executive Obey Dube obey@probeauty.co.za Design Saveer Sugreem
Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970
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The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.shutterstock.com, www.pexels.com, www. pixabay.com and www.unsplash.com
INDUSTRY NEWS
Industry mourns the passing of Derek Terry It is with great sadness that we announce the passing of one of the industry’s most loved and charismatic figures, Derek Terry of Lilian Terry International. Derek had been courageously fighting cancer for some time, since being diagnosed last year, and passed away peacefully on the evening of the 20th of June. Derek came to South Africa from the UK many years ago and made this country his own, bringing his engineering skills and professional approach to join the team at the Council for Scientific and Industrial Research (CSIR). In 1996, Derek and his wife Lilian established Lilian Terry International, a unique beauty company that, with the assistance of Dr Kateryna Tsvietkova, a Ukrainian pulmonologist, combined the disciplines of aromatherapy and homeopathy, to produce a range of highly beneficial topically applied and ingestible products to be used in the beauty industry through spas and wellness stores. Lilian Terry International went from strength-to-strength and became a highly successful company until 2008, when Lilian suddenly and unexpectedly passed away on a business trip to the USA. Despite this tragic loss, Derek went on to run Lilian Terry International as a successful business for many years thereafter. Derek relocated Lilian Terry International into the House of Zinplex premises in 2016, where in-house manufacturing was established and the business began to flourish, culminating in the success that it is today. Derek was a larger-than-life character, who was full of fun and loved nothing more than to entertain guests and host braais and dinners at his home in Pretoria, together with his partner Barbara, whom he met several years ago. He was a humble and respectful man, always making sure everyone else around him was taken care of before looking after himself. None of us will forget the outward mission trips and the many expos
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coordinated by the Cosmetic Export Council and the DTI. As ever, Derek was laughing and joking, giving advice and lending a helping hand to the exhibitors where he could. Derek was an avid soccer fan who had a prolifically keen interest in all things football, and his lifelong dedication to Aston Villa earned him the nickname of ‘The Villan’. Every time that Derek went back to the UK for any reason, he would always make time for at least one Villa game, cheering his side on from the terraces, with the best of them. He also played a mean game of golf and his antics and jokes out on the golf course will be fondly remembered for many years to come. Derek Terry was truly a legend in the South African cosmetic industry who made his mark in so many different ways, frequently for the benefit of others. He also served as a Director for CECOSA (Cosmetic Export Council of South Africa) for many years. The South African cosmetic industry will be all the worse as a result of Derek’s passing and he will be sorely missed by the many people who loved him so much.
Tribute written by Phil Woods with input from John Knowlton
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INDUSTRY NEWS
expo since August 2019 due to the pandemic, it is with a lot of excitement and anticipation that the team is preparing for this year’s event. We are experiencing great interest from leading beauty, nail, aesthetics and hair brands in terms of exhibiting at the event, and stands are booking out rapidly. As usual, there will be plenty of special offers for beauty and hair professionals at the expo. The list of exhibitors is on www. probeauty.co.za – click on the ‘Johannesburg Expo’ tab, and then on ‘Exhibitors’. “In addition, we have some really top speakers at the seminars and conventions, all presenting on topics of prime relevance to the industry. “While we have had smaller, very successful events over the last two years, we cannot wait to welcome the industry at large back to our Johannesburg expo, which will also serve as a wonderful networking platform for beauty and hair professionals keen to gather and mingle.” Pre-registration for the expo will ensure free entry. Unregistered visitors arriving on the day will be charged an entrance fee of R300. For more info visit www. probeauty.co.za Those wishing to attend the Business Seminars, Advanced Treatment Seminars, the World Spa & Wellness Convention and the Aesthetic Medicine Convention will need to purchase tickets for each event.
Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo returns The flagship event of Professional Beauty returns this year to Gallagher Convention Centre on 28 and 29 August. As in previous years, this edition of Professional Beauty Johannesburg will comprise a number of exciting components in addition to the beauty & hair expo, namely Business Seminars, Advanced Treatment Seminars, the World Spa & Wellness Convention and the Aesthetic Medicine Convention. There will also be a live hair stage, as well as a photographic hair competition. Says Phil Woods, commercial director of Professional Beauty: “After not being able to hold our Johannesburg
Update on industry’s Main Collective Agreement The Main Collective Agreement of the National Bargaining Council for Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Beauty and Skincare Industry (HCBSC) has been extended until 30 June 2023. This is as per a Government Notice gazetted on 10 June 2022 by the Department of Employment and Labour and in accordance with the Labour Relations Act (LRA) of 1995. All beauty salons and spas are required, by law, to register with the HCSBC, which takes its statutory authority from the LRA. The HCSBC’s role consists primarily of facilitating agreements between Trade Union/s and employer organisation/s, in this industry’s case, UASA The Union and the Employers’ Organisation for Hairdressing Cosmetology Beauty (EOHCB). Together, these two organisations constitute the parties to the HCSBC. The HCBSC provides a forum in which discussions and negotiations can take place, and collective agreements can be formulated. Once such an agreement has been reached, the HCSBC’s role also includes the fair and impartial enforcement of the agreed terms of conditions of employment.
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Photo by Tima Miroshnichenko from Pexels
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INDUSTRY NEWS 2022’s biggest beauty trends so far By analysing data from Google, TikTok and Instagram hashtags, Hey Discount reveals that retinol is the most searched beauty trend this year. It generated over 9.2 million Google searches, 1.2 billion views on TikTok, and 635,767 Instagram hashtags. Hyaluronic acid and niacinamide also featured in the Top Ten, amassing 6.84 and 6.4 million Google searches respectively. The Hey Discount research revealed that wellness tools are continuing to trend, as searches for #GuaSha on TikTok had total 976.9 million views, with 502,093 Instagram posts using the same tag. GuaSha tools, sometimes known as ‘scraping’ therapy, have been utilised and promoted by beauty therapists for years thanks to their ability to sculpt the face. Searches for graphic eyeliner gained one billion views on TikTok, and the hashtag was used 655,325 times on Instagram, making the statement eye make-up the second biggest beauty trend this year.
Photo by Arina Krasnikova from Pexels
The 10 biggest beauty trends of 2022 in ascending order are: Retinol; Graphic liner; Gua sha; SPF; DIY skincare; Lip scrub; Ombre lips; Glass skin; Hyaluronic acid; and Niacinamide. (Source: Professional Beauty UK)
SA researchers enhance bioavailability of rooibos in cosmetics Cape Peninsula University of Technology (CPUT) researchers are using phytosome nanotechnology to increase the bioavailability of rooibos extracts in skincare formulations. Says Dr Mariska Lilly, Senior Researcher of Proteomics & Molecular Biology at the Applied Microbial and Health Biotechnology Institute (AMHBI) of CPUT: “We knew that once the skin was exposed to the sun’s ultra-violet (UV)
Dr Mariska Lilly
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rays, rooibos extracts could remove precancerous damaged cells and block the onset of inflammation. They do so by hindering the multiplication of inflamed cells and ridding the body of them. “Instead of just studying one biomarker, we looked at several, and found the same to be true. Rooibos indeed has a powerful anti-inflammatory effect, which protects the skin from the damaging effects of the sun, changing environmental conditions and pollution. However, the concentration of the rooibos extract must be just right.” Dr Lilly notes that it’s the combination of polyphenols (antioxidants) – natural compounds found in rooibos – which gives it its restorative ability. Up until now, the bioavailability (proportion of active ingredient that is absorbed by cells and that can have an effect when introduced into the body) of many plant extracts, including rooibos, have been stymied by its high molecular weight. “But, loading rooibos’ polyphenolic compounds (extracts) in a novel nano-delivery system will facilitate their penetration across the skin barriers, thereby enhancing their topical bioavailability. Nanocarriers will not only help to protect the bioactive compounds in rooibos from oxidation and degradation, but can improve the solubility, absorption, long-term benefits, as well as their stability (shelf life). “Phytosomes as lipid-based nanocarriers play a crucial function in the enhancement of pharmacokinetic and pharmacodynamic properties of rooibos’ polyphenolic compounds and make nanotechnology a promising tool for the development of new topical formulations that will take rooibos skincare to the next level,” comments Dr Lilly. More research and clinical trials in humans will be conducted to determine the right concentration of rooibos and rate of bioavailability. For more information visit www.sarooibos.co.za
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INDUSTRY NEWS
Top aesthetics and beauty stockists win trip to Greece
World Wellness Weekend on track for September With a theme of ‘Living Well Together’, the 6th annual edition of World Wellness Weekend (WWW) will take place from 16 to 18 September 2022 in over 4,000 participating venues, in 140 countries, including South Africa. Says WWW founder, Jean-Guy de Gabriac: “We are a year-round movement and a vibrant network of professionals motivated by making a difference in fitness, mindfulness, well-being, beauty, hospitality and tourism. WWW shares international best practices to elevate the guest experience and drive more clients into spas, clubs and hotels with meaningful activities to enhance healthy lifestyles.” For the WWW 2022 event, professionals and venues sign up to for free on www.wellmap.org and schedule free group classes from September 16 to 18 at their facility or in local parks and recreational areas. There’s a one-class minimum, and venues offering three free classes or more will receive a ‘2022 Wellness Champion’ badge. For more information visit https:// world-wellness-weekend.org/
The top performing aesthetic clinics and beauty salon owners/ therapists across South Africa for Beauté Pacifique Medical Skin Care and RapidLash International were recently rewarded with a seven-day ‘Dreamtour’ to Ikaria. Says Wayne La Grange of Beauté Pacifique Africa and RapidLash: “Ikaria is Greek Island in the Aegean Sea with more centenarians (people who live over a 100 years of age) than any other place on earth. The Greek Islands were home to our VIP ‘Dreamtour’ guests in 2022, from ancient temples in Athens to the magnificent islands of Samos and Ikaria.” The ‘Dreamtour’ winners in the Beautè Pacifique category were: Dot Milton (Dot Milton Beauty); Sanè van der Linde (Laser Beautè); Tasneem Valley (Tasneem Valley Aesthetics); and Yolandi Kuhn (Revive Skin and Body). RapidLash ‘Dreamtour’ winners were: Nazeera Essop (Sorbet Bedfordview); Lindsey Walmsley (Sorbet Constantia); Gerrie Lindeque (B-Spoilt Hair & Beauty); Rakesh Seeberath (Galleon Pharmacy); and Yemurai Ngwenya (Sorbet Bedfordview). The next ‘Dreamtour’ goes to Okinawa, Japan.
The ‘Dreamtour’ participants, with Wayne La Grange on extreme right
ITEC accredited Sustainable Spa Practitioner Course endorsed by WSO In recognition of the vital importance of a sustainable spa and wellness community, the World Spa Organisation (WSO) recently endorsed the first dedicated sustainability course for spas and salons. The ITEC accredited Sustainable Spa Practitioner course was developed by Charné le Roux, a member of the Scientific Committee of WSO and founder of Greenspa Africa. It is a comprehensive online course, set over four levels, with theoretical and practical elements and delivered through multi-media tools. Features include expert videos, sample policies and reports, an online forum and a sustainability audit app, the
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Greenspa Calculator. Says Le Roux: “The WSO firmly believes that educators in the spa and beauty industry have a responsibility to instruct wellness practitioners on matters pertaining to sustainability and in particular, to empower them to become active sustainability practitioners. In this way, knowledge is acquired on whether products used to treat clients are totally safe, whether packaging is re-usable, or biodegradable and capable of replenishing the earth, whether there are any social or community benefits associated with their spa/salon, and whether spa and salon businesses consume resources in a sustainable way.”
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BUSINESS TIPS
Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business Photo by Karolina Grabowska from Pexels
How do I go about starting my own professional product line? he global luxury beauty market is set to be valued at $118,630 million by 2028, up from $69,240 million in 2021 . This is because the demand for quality and luxury products are at an all-time high with consumers constantly looking for fresh, new and innovative solutions to enhance their appearance. Another factor is the shift to online shopping which has made purchasing far easier and more convenient. Therefore, there is great opportunity for aspiring local producers to take advantage of this growth. Having launched the My Beauty Luv professional product line almost a decade ago, I’ve learnt a number of lessons along the way which can assist those considering developing their own product lines.
Ingredient quality is everything
With the ground-breaking advances in science and technology, there is no excuse to use outdated, toxic and inefficient ingredients. Customers need to see and feel the results and only good quality raw materials will achieve this. For instance, I refuse to include mushroom extracts in my products as this dilutes their efficacy, I use the actual product such as Tremella Mushroom, Wood / Jew’s Ear Mushroom, Cauliflower Mushroom.
Manufacturing partners matter
This is as important as a marriage. If you contract to third party manufacturers, you are totally reliant on them to produce according to your standards and deadlines. Manufacturers must understand the product brief completely and you must be 100% happy with them. Anything less could spell disaster for the entire production arm.
To barcode or not to barcode
This must be taken into account before considering the design of your packaging. To launch your product range
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into the local or even international marketplace, you will need to register with the Consumer Goods Council of South Africa, which will supply you with authentic, registered barcodes that are placed on an international barcode identification system. Make sure you leave sufficient space in your packaging design to accommodate this.
Consumers shop with their eyes first
Visual appeal is crucial so make sure your product is enticing to customers. Chic packaging and design are paramount.
Practical packaging
For the majority of products, packaging is the most expensive cost element. Choose a packaging solution that is easy and practical in terms of ergonomics, function, visual appeal, brand identity and, most importantly, shipping. A very successful businessman in the beauty industry once told me: “There is always room for another product in the consumer’s mind”. So, identify those gaps in the market, determine what makes your product unique, trust your instincts, believe in yourself and your product…the rest will follow. https://www.marketwatch.com/press-release/luxury-beauty-market-growth2022-movements-by-key-findings-industry-impact-latest-trend-analysisprogression-status-revenue-expectation-to-2028-with-leading-regions-andcountries-data-market-growth-reports-2022-04-13
Toni Carroll is the founder of nutricosmetic brand My Beauty Luv. Key ingredients are sourced from reputable, industry leaders with claims backed by clinical trials and consumer proven results. Email toni@mybeautyluv.com
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BUSINESS TIPS
Laws of attraction ccording to a recent study, an average worker will change employer every five years, with just under a quarter of employees (23%) looking for a new job at least once a year. People are no longer motivated by the same factors as previous generations. Instead, employees are placing greater emphasis on a good work-life balance and a sense of purpose beyond financial success. Although salary remains a motivating factor driving the decision of employees, their well-being, personal progression and most importantly of all, their cultural fit with their prospective employer, all have an important part to play. As a business owner, there are many challenges to achieving success, such as customer acquisition, revenue and profit growth. However, the greatest challenge for all salon businesses is how to attract and retain great people. Without a great team, your salon cannot succeed. Hiring the right person is essential. Your business is only as good as your employees and every employee represents a facet of your salon to clients. Hiring the wrong candidate will cost you more than just money.
Time
Managing your team takes time. But, dealing with a ‘poor performing’ employee can take up to 70% more time than a ‘good
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Photo by Christina Morillo from Pexels
Beauty business expert Liz McKeon explains how to attract the right staff to your salon
Bringing in STRONG TEAM PLAYERS WILL CONTRIBUTE to your SALON’S CULTURE, just as HIRING THE WRONG person will DISRUPT DAILY OPERATIONS. performing’ team member. When you hire the right people, you can focus on running your business, rather than worrying about whether employees are getting the job done properly.
Customer service
By hiring the right person, who respects clients and co-workers, you are cultivating the best customer service experience in you salon. Candidates with excellent interpersonal skills are essential for building your business. A disappointing customer service experience is the number one reason first-time customers or long-standing clients move on.
Business growth
Attracting the right people can reduce the number of people you’ll need to hire in the future, as candidates who are interested and invested in your business will also be open to growing their role, as your salon matures. Employees who are capable of taking ownership of both their work and their place within your company will help your salon prosper.
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BUSINESS TIPS Team building and morale
Salons thrive when the team works together towards a common success goal. Bringing in strong team players will contribute to your salon’s culture, just as bringing in the wrong person will disrupt daily operations. Also, replacing a bad hire shortly after they begin working with you can cause existing team members to feel unsettled, leading to lower productivity levels. The success of any business is predicated on having the right people in the right jobs with the right skillsets. This is true for both management positions and those on the front line. Successful beauty and hair salons must have a people process encompassing business strategy, recruitment and long-term retention of your best employees to ensure business success. There are a number of key steps you need to follow to ensure you are attracting the right people to your business, and keeping them. Here are my key thoughts.
When INTERVIEWING JOB CANDIDATES, involve others IN THE PROCESS, as everyone HAS WEAK SPOTS when interviewing.
Photo by Tima Miroshnichenko from Pexels
Step 1: Develop your business strategy To do this, you need to define: • What are you doing? • Where you want your business to go? • Identify your unique selling point. • How to differentiate your company from others offering similar services? • Decide how to approach your marketplace. Step 2: Define your company’s culture Determining its culture is the single most important part of any salon’s foundation. It defines how you want to be known by your customers, suppliers and employees.
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Step 3: Identify the required people skills, competencies and range of experience Identify the people you need to achieve your business goals and who will fit into the culture of your salon. Having the right ‘fit’ is critical, therefore you need to create profiles of the skills and competencies that are needed for the business. Take this information and start to develop a job description. It is important to focus on the duties, responsibilities and skills that are necessary for the job, as well as the right fit for your salon’s culture. When interviewing job candidates, involve others in the process, as everyone has weak spots when interviewing. If possible, let others participate, having them follow the profile and job description. When making the final decision, choose the candidate who best fits the position and organisational culture. Finally, having followed these steps, I wanted to share a few tips on the interview process. This is a topic in itself, but there are some essential things to remind yourself of when interviewing a potential candidate. It will help you to understand them and whether they are suitable for the job, it will also enable them to shine.
Top 5 Interview tips 1. Prepare a separate interview score sheet for each candidate. It is crucial to rate each candidate, as you may not be able to recall specific details of the interview later. 2. Get the setting right. Both you and the candidate need to be comfortable and reasonably relaxed – that way both of you get more out of the interview. 3. Communicate clearly. You are not there to scare the candidate, as this will be counter productive because the person will become too nervous and less likely to do themselves justice. 4. Use open questions and remember the 80/20 rule, as the interviewer you speak 20% of the time and the candidate speaks 80%! 5. Encourage the candidate to ask questions, once you have all the important information you need written down.
Liz McKeon is an author, business coach, trainer and mentor, specialising in salon turnaround. Email liz@lizmckeon.com
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BUSINESS TIPS
How beauty devices fit into Facial Regimes Skin wellness expert, Linda Jackson, unpacks the various technologies found in beauty devices
eauty therapists today need to carefully consider their options on the skincare technology front. According to COLIPA (The European Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association), less than 6% of skin products penetrate the skin’s natural barrier so, if we wish to deliver clients the best treatments and results possible, I believe that technology must be employed, but only if it is safe and effective.
Ultrasound therapy
The therapeutic effects of ultrasound are mainly in relation to tissue healing, so it’s no surprise it is used extensively in physiotherapy. It is also known to improve moderate skin laxity by stimulating the creation of new collagen and giving the tissue better tone. Post liposuction it is a very useful adjunctive for smoothing out the area. Our skincare industry uses more low frequency ultrasound (20-100kHz), which is non-thermal and causes tiny bubbles to form in the epidermal tissue (acoustic cavitation) and so crosses the permeability barrier. (The amplitude of an acoustic wave is inversely proportional to its frequency, so the greater the frequency, the less deeply the ultrasound penetrates into, and under, the skin.) As the treatment progresses, the bubbles coalesce to form channels through which serums, loaded with clever peptides and other useful micro-ingredients, enter the deeper epidermal skin tissue. Healing is also boosted with the increased blood and lymph supply that this medium stimulates.
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Photo by Gustavo Fring from Pexels
OUR SKINCARE INDUSTRY uses more LOW FREQUENCY ULTRASOUND (20-100KHZ), which is NON-THERMAL and causes TINY BUBBLES TO FORM in the EPIDERMAL TISSUE (acoustic cavitation) and so CROSSES THE PERMEABILITY BARRIER. Galvanic skin treatments (D.C.)
There are two treatments that fall within the galvanic category: 1. Iontophoresis. Positively charged protons pass through the skin pushing a water-based product (usually a serum loaded with nourishing ingredients and it must also carry a + charge) deeper into the epidermal skin layers. This can drastically increase skin hydration and over time, improves collagen and other new cell proliferation. To increase the efficacy of this method, a pulsed AC current can be
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BUSINESS TIPS
added to deliver more actives into the skin. 2. Desincrustation is the use of negatively charged ions in the superficial skin to emulsify clogged pores for much easier removal.
Microcurrent (A.C.)
These devices have two metal points kept reasonably close to each other to facilitate superficial current conduction. The purpose is the stimulation of the small facial and slightly deeper neck muscles to increase their tone. Results can be seen instantly. Therapists should avoid using this over the muscles of facial expression however, to prevent further ingraining of the wrinkles.
LED (Light Emitting Diode)
These were first developed by NASA for plant growth in their space missions, using medical grade LEDs. Later, the wound healing effect of LEDs was noticed and in the 1990s, the Navy Seals used similar devices for healing wounds and to help regenerate damaged muscle tissue. Light photons of specific wavelengths are absorbed by the mitochondria of cells in the target area, triggering a cascade of biochemical responses. Red LED reduces redness and inflammation, whilst Near Infra-Red LEDs stimulate deep fibroblast cells to promote new collagen protein production and re-energise the mitochondria of cells. These days LED devices usually combine the two. Blue LED neutralises bacteria that cause acne and inflammation (p.acnes, now called c.acnes bacteria). Right now, research is underway by Dr Thomas Hitchcock of Crown Laboratories in regard to acne and these bacteria. His findings are indicating that there are varying strains of c.acnes bacteria and some actually affect acne positively! Frequent treatments are required to achieve and maintain results, so home devices are becoming popular. LED globes need to be medical grade to give the similar energy output.
Photo by Polina Tankilevitch from Pexels
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High frequency devices
These have glass electrodes with either Argon (violet/blue) or Neon (red/orange) gas filling the chamber. A mild electric current is conveyed to one or other of these gases and the glass electrode emits a subtle glow and buzzing noise. This treatment was developed in the late 1800s by Nikola Tesla before the discovery of antibiotics and was useful at the time for treating strep throat and wounds. In the 1970s and 1980s, it became widely used by European and American salons for many skin conditions. The output from the glass electrodes onto the surface of the skin or mucous membranes is one of enriched oxygen known as ozone, which is three atoms of oxygen attached together forming a molecule that is O3. Ozone is less stable and behaves differently to oxygen. It is more energetic and oxidative than oxygen, making the germicidal action useful in the treatment of pustular acne.
FREQUENT TREATMENTS are required TO ACHIEVE and MAINTAIN RESULTS, so home devices are BECOMING POPULAR. LED GLOBES need to be MEDICAL GRADE to give the SIMILAR ENERGY output. Oxygen treatments
It is important to differentiate the activity of oxygen entering the body via the lungs, used in the complex process of energy production, versus any real benefit of topical application. (Oxygen is known as a free radical as it has two unpaired electrons in separate orbits of its outer shell.) As trendy as the oxygen facial may be, there is no hard evidence of its effectiveness and the very nature of skin as a barrier makes the topical application of oxygen difficult.
Linda Jackson, CIDESCO, CIBTAC & National Diploma in Beauty Technology, is a medical skin therapist living and working in Auckland, New Zealand. She specialises in skin wellness and anti-ageing treatments and has worked with specialists and GPs for over 30 years, offering quality, tailor-made treatments. Jackson is always on a mission to research and update so that her clients are able to get some detailed insight into their skin health. She has a special interest in treating difficult skin issues and scarring and takes pride in exceeding expectations. Jackson is a member of the New Zealand Association of Registered Beauty Therapists Inc. and the New Zealand Board of Professional Skin Therapies.
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SUSTAINABILITY
Charne le Roux, founder of Greenspa Africa, examines whether introducing sustainable practices in spas and salons is within everyone’s budget Photo by Duc Nguyen from Pexels
“Can I still make a profit if I transition my business to sustainable?”
This is a question I am asked almost without fail whenever I start working with spas and salons that want to go green. It suggests a perception that exists in our industry that the implementation of good environmental and social practices will eat deeply into our financial reserves. This was underlined at a recent Professional Beauty conference in Cape Town, when the point was made by a spa owner that sustainability is only within reach of large and affluent spas. Is this perception a reflection of the true facts? Well, yes and no. There are definitely added costs to conducting a sustainable business and living a sustainable lifestyle. Of course, when we consider generating our own renewable energy as a green strategy, the capital costs of the hardware – all payable upfront – are often prohibitive. Then there is also the time and effort required to adapt to a new culture of ‘slow energy’. Refurbishing a spa to include water saving equipment and other green building features is also costly. The truth is, sustainable products should be more expensive. It does cost more to use materials that are sustainably sourced and manufactured ethical products
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THE HEART of sustainable living LIES IN REDUCING our ENVIRONMENTAL FOOTPRINT by buying less, BUYING BETTER and by REDUCING OUR WASTE. It is also about SUPPORTING our EMPLOYEES AND LOCAL ECONOMY. that meet certification requirements and pay workers fair wages. This fact is aptly demonstrated by well-known sportswear and apparel company, Puma, which recently developed a tool to measure the cost to Nature of their manufacturing processes. This tool calculates the environmental cost of the volume of potable water consumed, pollution caused and topsoil lost when a new product is created. When the environmental costs of manufacture are taken into account in addition to standard production costs, we arrive at the true cost of production and the backdrop to high priced green goods.
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SUSTAINABILITY Buy less, buy better
Sustainability is not, however, about buying the best green products on the market. In many ways, such a practice just perpetuates our spending culture. The heart of sustainable living lies in reducing our environmental footprint by buying less, buying better and by reducing our waste. It is also about supporting our employees and local economy. Such practices don’t require deep pockets and are within reach of even the smallest spa or salon. Did you know that it is the industrialised and wealthier nations that are responsible for consuming the largest share of the world’s resources and for contributing the most to global carbon emissions? Businesses and communities in developing regions actually have a lower carbon footprint than those in the developed world.
Options for a shoestring budget
I have developed a matrix that I call the Sustainability Transit Map, which provides a deconstructed way of reaching any sustainability goal. It reads just like a Subway Map, with different routes all leading to a sustainability outcome, and spas can choose which way to go. Sustainability is not a perfect science and there are no rules that dictate where you should start and how you should travel on your green journey. You can pick your route depending on the size of your business, your projections for the year and your vision for going green. • Waste management is often the first outcome selected. It requires a very low capital investment, offers immediate feedback on successes and challenges and gets employees across all executive and support levels involved. • Review and improve your procurement policy and practices to encourage your suppliers to align with your sustainability objectives, particularly around the issue of packaging, single use plastics and bulk purchasing. • Overhaul your HR practices in order to provide for the best possible working conditions for staff. • Form partnerships with local enterprises and create a solid base from which you can support and uplift local communities.
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GSN PLANET, a USA based organisation that PROMOTES SUSTAINABILITY in the SPA INDUSTRY, recently stated that GOING GREEN IS VERY much about STAYING COMPETITIVE and that by NOT ADOPTING SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES, SPAS OVERLOOK a key strategy for growth. The alternative
Before we close this conversation, we should, however, flip the coin and ask this additional important question: What is the cost to us for not being sustainable? Rising fossil fuels prices, scarcity of raw materials and potable water supplies, along with environmental pollution all paint a stark future. There are, in addition, direct financial risks to our businesses if we do not go green. Kantar (one of the world’s leading data companies) published a study in April 2022 showing that consumers purchasing sustainable face and body products grew from, on average, 18% of sales in 2017 to 24% of sales in 2021. These consumers are also willing to pay extra for the benefit of green. If we do not tap into this market, we will not be able to satisfy our clients’ rising demand for environmentally conscious products and we will miss our targets. Other studies also show that the majority of job seekers prefer to work for sustainable companies. This means that these companies are in a position to attract the cream of the crop from the job market. The leftovers will go to those employers who do not offer sustainability as a core business objective. GSN Planet, a USA based organisation that promotes sustainability in the spa industry, recently stated that going green is very much about staying competitive and that by not adopting sustainable practices, spas overlook a key strategy for growth. Alannah Weston, who is Group Chair of Selfridges, a well-known high-end fashion and cosmetics store in the UK, was asked in an interview late last year whether a company can be sustainable and profitable at the same time. Her answer was: “Companies will not be profitable unless they are sustainable”.
As turnkey sustainability practitioner, Charné le Roux advocates and influences sustainability in the wellness industry. Her work includes creating the Sustainable Spa Practitioner Course, GreenSpa Guide and GreenSpa Calculator. Email charne@ greenspa.africa
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SPA FOCUS
Location, Location, Location
For anyone opening up a new spa, or wanting to relocate an existing one, deciding on the perfect spot for the business is crucial, as Marisa Dimitriadis of The Spa Professionals Guild points out Embarking on a spa project is exciting – it’s the sector everyone wants to be in right now. However, don’t let the thrill of the prospect and its possibilities cloud your decision making process about which location to pick, because the location can be what makes or destroys your business. The starting point when choosing a suitable location is to identify your target market clearly. Define the market you want to cater to in as much detail as possible – gender, age, occupation, income demographic, lifestyle, where they live, etc. Alongside this, decide what your offering is going to be and be very specific about it. The size of the spa space is important at this point, as you will need to translate the offering into a suitable size space. Do you need a high volume of traffic for your spa, or will your target market come to you specifically? For example, a nail bar should be positioned in a high traffic area, whereas a day spa, or an aesthetics clinic, needs more privacy. Don’t rush the process of defining your target market.
Types of venues
There is a variety of types of locations to choose from. 1. Shopping centre or strip mall 2. Free standing buildings 3. Business parks/ Sports centres 4. Lifestyle estates/ apartments
Important considerations
When choosing your location, there are a number of variables to take into account.
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THE STARTING POINT when choosing a SUITABLE LOCATION is to IDENTIFY YOUR TARGET MARKET CLEARLY. Define the market you want to cater to in AS MUCH DETAIL as possible. Easily accessible. The location should offer ease of access both for clients as well as for supplier deliveries, or maintenance crews. It’s advisable to check traffic flow at different times of the day, so you can get an understanding of when your peak times will be. Ample parking. Preferably free. Safety. If someone doesn’t feel safe, or feel that their vehicle is safe, then the spa won’t be able to build up momentum. Proximity to other busy and in demand businesses. This is not only convenient for clients, but businesses close to your spa can help to either attract or repel clients, so choose carefully where you position yourself. Also, look for businesses that complement yours like, for example, a great hair salon (if you are not going to offer hair services yourself), or doctors’ rooms or a fitness centre. Having said this, it is of no value to position yourself near these amazing businesses if you are not prepared to collaborate and agree on this collaboration before you go ahead. So, make friends and see how these businesses would feel about your salon opening up near them. The more excited you get them before you go ahead, the greater the collaboration.
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SPA FOCUS
YOU MUST ENSURE you either have a CORRECTLY ZONED SPACE, or that you are ABLE TO SECURE the ZONING BEFORE you begin the project. Public transport proximity for staff. This is not to be overlooked as you need your staff to be able to get to work easily and on time. Therefore, the closer to public transport routes your spa is, the better. Competitor analysis. Please do not, for one minute, think you are creating something new and different because in this day and age, anything spa/ nails/ salon is not a novelty anymore, as it is now available everywhere. So be sure to check out competitors in the nearby area that will feed from your target market and ultimately dilute it. Room for growth. Will your space allow you to grow? Most business owners don’t think about this until they ‘need to cross that bridge’, but by then it becomes a costly exercise, or they need to move altogether. Decide how you will grow and what the spa will look like once you do grow.
Zoning. You must ensure you either have a correctly zoned space, or that you are able to secure the zoning before you begin the project. Please don’t have the attitude that you will get it no problem, because that has cost many prospective business owners a lot of money when they are not able to get the zoning halfway through a build. Signage restrictions. Are there restrictions on signage? If so, how might this affect your business? Access to highly qualified and skilled staff. How easily can you get great staff? Are you located so far away and in such a remote area that you don’t have access to any talent? Please add this factor to your location checklist. Rent or own? This is an important consideration that could benefit your business, or destroy it. No matter how good you think the deal is, make sure the numbers work and that long term, the deal works too.
Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder and owner of The Spa Consultants and a co-founder of The Spa Professionals Guild Email marisa@ thespaconsultants.com
MAKE-UP
Top tips
for applying theatre make-up
Professional make-up artist, Elzarie Botha, reveals how to enhance the face of the stage performer he best way to prep skin for theatre make-up is to always make sure that the performer’s face is moisturised before you start applying any cosmetics. Modern theatre make-up is more breathable than it used to be in the past, but it is still thicker then everyday make-up/ foundation. Because stage make-up is so heavy, it is important to protect the skin by using a barrier spray or cream, rather than a primer, because it shields the skin better and holds the foundation in place. Having said this, it is possible to use a normal everyday foundation for stage if you so choose, but remember to use a good primer before application. I’ve found that most of the female theatre ensemble I’ve worked with prefer to use normal everyday foundation in instances when they have many make-up changes in between scenes, because it comes off easier than stage foundation. Use fixing spray with a fine powder to set your look and create a matte finish. A powder puff works the best in my opinion.
with a lot of pigment. Be careful of contrasts. Colours that are too dark can read as black from the audience’s vantage point. The stage lights reflect too much white colour off the face, so rather use a cream colour instead. Red lipstick is mostly used on stage because it is vibrant. At times we may use bright pink lipstick for some characters. In fact, any bright coloured lipstick can used on stage.
Contouring
Contouring use to be big when theatre started because the lighting was different to the modern lights you get today. Now you can get away with just a small amount of contouring. You should always do your make-up with the audience at the far back of the auditorium in mind because make-up details don’t read from the audience’s perspective as they do in real life. Therefore more, in this case, is better.
Stage lighting
There is no need to use darker foundation on a performer than you would normally do because stage lighting is very forgiving. The different gel colours of plastic film they use on the lights, as well as the specific angles that the lights are positioned in, help to even out skin tones and bring out the colours. But, because the lights are so bright, you would have to use more blusher than for everyday make-up. It’s important also to emphasise the eyebrows. Eyelashes and eyeliner are an absolute must. A useful tip is to add a small amount of white liner in the performer’s waterline to make the eyes look bigger. I have used normal everyday make-up to enhance features, especially eyeshadows and blushers
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Elzarie Botha is a qualified make-up and hairstylist who completed her studies at TUT in 2010. She has 11 years of experience in theatre make-up, hair and wigs. Botha did multiple international tours with musicals, including ‘Phantom of the Opera’, ‘Evita the Musical’, ‘Chicago the Musical’, ‘Priscilla Queen of the Desert’ and ‘Annie’, to name a few. She is currently working on the Afrikaanslanguage TV series, ‘Getroud met Rugby – Die Sepie’.
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SKINCARE
A(andcold very dry) snap Winter is when your client’s complexion really takes a beating in terms of the drying effects of the harsh, cold air on the skin. Here we look at some leading professional hydrating skin treatments and products on the market
Photo by Anna Shvets from Pexels
Esse
Certified organic biotechnology company, Esse, believes in rewilding the skin to feed its microbiome. Combining the powers of probiotics, prebiotics and hyaluronic acid, the Esse Hyaluronic Serum offers intense,
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targeted anti-ageing with a cruelty-free formulation. This rapidly absorbing serum protects collagen and slows premature signs of ageing, while leaving the skin softer and more supple. The Esse Plus Restorative Moisturiser is designed to create a healthy mantle of microbes on your skin, using extracts of probiotic lactobacillus and two key prebiotics – inulin and alpha-glucan oligosaccharides, to create the ideal environment for your skin to thrive during winter. Use this moisturiser as a night-time repair for wonderfully restored skin, or use it twice a day to treat dry skin. Esse’s Protect Oil is a skin defensive system with the unique Ximenia oil from Namibia. The Protect Oil’s key ingredient forms a protective layer when exposed to the elements and UV, protecting the skin from pollutants and the harsh winter air.
Thalgo
Source Marine from Thalgo is the first marine skincare range that is concentrated in remineralising active ingredients, which hydrate and fortify the skin daily. This is thanks to the combination of marine manganese from Seve Bleue des Oceans and 14 marine essentials from the classic Micronised Marine Algae. The Thalgo Rehydrating Pro-Mask is inspired by professional application processes and instantly rehydrates and replenishes the skin once applied. For drastic action, the Thalgo 7-Day Hydration Treatment acts as an SOS treatment course to replenish the thirstiest of skins in only 7 days. Thalgo’s Intense Moisture Quenching Serum instantly boosts hydration. The range also includes two 24-hour hydration products: Hydrating Melting Cream, which focuses skin comfort, and the Hydrating Cooling Gel-Cream that focuses on refreshing the skin completely. To be used in conjunction with these two products is the ‘revitalising night bath aka the Thalgo Revitalising Night Cream. This final step provides you with plump and hydrated skin upon waking the following morning. Another essential to your daily skincare routine is the Thalgo Smoothing Eye Care, being completely fragrance free, to take care of the eye area. All of the products contain 92% 98% natural ingredients and are a cornerstone range of Thalgo’s Clean Beauty Charter.
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SKINCARE Dr. Grandel
The unique blend of high-tech actives used in Dr. Grandel’s Performance 3D range provides an excellent alternative to wrinkle filling injections. Dr. Grandel Performance 3D Face provides skin lastingly and intensively with moisture and high-quality skincare components. It corrects a range of ageing phenomena and protects against stress and other negative external factors. Likewise, Performance 3D Eye protects skin from stress and other negative external factors and creates a youthful complexion. Thanks to the innovation of 3D technology, the eye area looks more relaxed, youthful and smoother. The Performance 3D Ultra Lift Active substance concentrate has a plumping and smoothing effect, even on fine creases around the décolleté. Newly developed plant-based ingredients help reduce lines on the face, neck and upper chest. The Diamond Focus Effect of this product conceals lines and wrinkles amazingly quickly, leaving the skin looking and feeling smoother and more even. It restores the skin’s natural stores of moisture and strengthens its structure.
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as well as lipid peroxidation. Hyaluronic Acid Complex gives an instant boost of hydration and forms an effective skin barrier to prevent trans epidermal water loss, while C2C Messenger Complex is a cell to cell messenger complex designed to improve intercellular communication within the keratinocyte cells, reducing fine lines and wrinkles and improving skin tone and elasticity. Finally, the 3D Hydra Complex is an innovative delivery vehicle complex that provides three-dimensional hydration in the skin.
pHformula
The SOS hydra gel mask from pHformula is a refreshing, moisturising and calming gel mask which helps to soothe dry and irritated skin. Combination ingredients strengthen the skin’s natural barrier, significantly reducing trans-epidermal water loss as hyaluronic acid increases the skin’s moisture reserves encouraging a supple and smooth complexion. Hyaluronic acid functions as a molecular sponge, allowing for extensive hydration, while chicory root extract is an active that lifts skin while increasing collagen synthesis. It provides an immediate and medium-term tightening effect to the skin, in addition to its anti-ageing properties. The immediate and medium-term effect is a result of the chicory root oligosaccharides being injected in a three dimensional matrix to deliver them sequentially once applied to the skin. When combined with hyaluronic acid, it may visibly erase the signs of fatigue and dehydration normally seen during the winter months. Fructose is also included as it is known to have moisture-binding properties. Also from pHformula, the Hydra Concentrated Corrective Serum contains a specialised blend of active ingredients and moisturebinding ingredients to leave skin healthy and hydrated. It promotes optimal moisture retention within skin cells and immediately hydrates and protects the skin. Ingredients include Ferulic Acid Complex – a synergistic combination of ferulic acid and vitamin E to assist with superior restoration of the skin and protection against free radicals,
Six
Ideal for dry and/ or dehydrated skin, the Microhydrabrasion Delux® from Six is not just for short term improvement, it also helps to improve the quality of your client’s skin with ongoing treatments, so the results compound over time. This technology-driven facial delivers instantly noticeable improvement with less treatment time by providing cleansing, exfoliation, extraction and hydration, including the Whirlpool Fusion ® of antioxidants, peptides and hyaluronic acid delivered in specialised serums. Also from Six, the Vitamin Booster Oil is perfect for regenerating, restructuring and anti-ageing. It contains nourishing Oat Kernel Oil, which also acts as an anti-irritant.
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SKINCARE Osonö
The formulations created by Osonö Bio-Scientific Natural DermaCosmeceuticals are crafted with speciality ingredients that have proven efficacy in addressing symptoms such dry and/or dehydrated skin and inflammation and sensitivity on a cellular level. This activates the skin’s natural healthy processes to restore the balance and improve skin function and health. Osonö Cleansing Milk is a nonsoapy, moisturising creamy cleanser packed with plant actives, while Osonö Hyaluronic Acid Serum is a light, hydra-gel that aids moisture retention and delivers hyaluronic acid right into the dermis, where it drenches the cells and hydrates the skin. Hydration and moisture retention are addressed by the Osonö Peptide Serum through Natural Moisturising Factors (NMFs) that are naturally present in the skin to keep skin hydrated and protected. For everyday use, Osonö Brightening & Even Tone Moisturiser contains complexion regulating properties, as well as moisturising, repair and protection properties with NMFs and hyaluronic acid.
blends a fresh jelly with a luscious cream balm that fuses into a textured mask to provide targeted hydration and nourishment to all areas of the face. There are two steps to this treatment: Creamy Phase and Gel Phase. Active ingredients include hyaluronic acid, which Matis describes as a ‘true sponge molecule’ as it capable of retaining up to 1,000 times its weight in water. It helps moisturise the superficial layers of the epidermis and contributes to plumping features. Shea butter is rich in triglycerides and vitamin (A and E). It has regenerating and softening virtues, along with anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, which soften the skin and moisturises it in depth. Camelia oil is rich in essential fatty acids and has repairing virtues for the skin. This oil is made up mainly of oleic acid (85%), which is very moisturising, regenerates the skin, offers anti-inflammatory properties, assists nutrients through the skin barrier and helps cell regeneration. Fundamental-Authentik Mask also contains a sugar cocktail with moisturising properties to immediately soothe sensitive and reactive skins. They reinforce the cutaneous barrier to bring wellbeing and comfort to the skin.
Matis
Newly launched from Matis is the 60-minute Fundamental-Authentik Mask treatment that moisturises and nourishes skin that is thirsty and malnourished. This treatment will restore the skin’s suppleness and comfort, and ensure the skin is plump, smooth and soft. Fundamental-Authentik Mask
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RégimA
RégimA “On Q” Quenching Facial Oil is immersed within exotic oils such
Photo by cottonbro from Pexels
as camellia oil as well as prickly pear, which is extremely rich in antioxidant vitamins E and K and essential fatty acids, omega-6 and linoleic acid. Prickly Pear deeply nourishes, softens wrinkles, stimulates new cell growth, restores elasticity, calms inflammation and brightens skin BV-OSC (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) is powerful oil-soluble vitamin C, providing multiple anti-ageing benefits. It penetrates quickly, protects cells from UV damage, improves skin tone due to antityrosinase activity, whilst promoting healthy collagen synthesis, resulting in a stronger, resilient, clearer, brighter, more even-toned, smoother complexion. RégimA’s Marine Replenishing Peptide Masque is an exfoliating enzyme masque with five, star ingredients. This mask was formulated as a leave-on, being the perfect finale for a pampering facial treatment. The Zone Super Smoother is an anti-ageing gel serum, designed to smooth the skin’s surface, and impart essential moisture into the skin. This formulation boasts a Dual Hyaluronic Action, utilising two different analogues of hyaluronic acid for advanced penetration into the skin, which provides unparalleled moisturising capabilities, applying the latest technology in the highest concentrations. It provides immediate and long term ultimate dermal and epidermal moisturisation and plumping. Among the active ingredients are extract of tara tree (caesalpinia spinosa), an intense moisturising component, particularly for dry, damaged and aged skin. Rich in galactomannan and galactomanno-oligosaccharides, it exhibits a water capture and retention activity, assimilating it into the skin, providing immediate and long-term moisturising capabilities.
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SKINCARE
MatsiMela
The MatsiMela Intense Hydration Body Wax intensively hydrates, moisturises and nourishes. It contains skin softening ingredients to lock in hydration. Soy wax offers high vitamin E content, which has moisturising properties and is an antioxidant that can help heal scars. An innovative new study found soy isoflavones and other antioxidants reduced depth of wrinkles and had positive effects on other key factors in skin ageing, namely collagen synthesis and oxidative stress.
CSpa
DermaFix
The CSpa Aroma Wellness Hydrating range is generously infused with unique essential oils for the ultimate hydration experience. Aloe-vera gently heals and soothes the skin, sandalwood essential oil envelops the skin in hydration, whilst neroli seals in moisture with added toning benefits for a restored youthful glow. CSpa’s Hydra-Boosting Serum doubles as a layering product to use under day or night moisturisers for boosted hydration. After applying the Serum, the second layer would be the Hydra-Indulgence Cream.
An effective homecare treatment to give dry or dehydrated skin a weekly boost while being careful not to aggravate acne is the DermaFIX HydraSooth Masque. It offers soothing, calming, hydrating, barrier repairing, moisturising and anti-oxidant benefits. This masque can be further customised by adding a few drops of DermaFIX CBD Oil for added calming of inflammation, sebumregulation, nourishing and hydrating benefits. It is made from organically grown Swiss cannabis.
Photo by Antoni Shkraba from Pexels
Dermalogica
The new Circular Hydration Serum from Dermalogica floods the skin with hydration and replenishes skin from within, all while also preventing future hydration evaporation. This full-circle hydrating serum utilises enhanced hyaluronic acid for deep hydration and more supple, radiant skin over time. It’s paired with an algae extract-infused moisturising matrix to provide quick and longlasting hydration, plus polyglutamic acid from fermented soy to replenish skin’s hydration reserves from within. Plant-derived sugars and a blend of amino acids trap water on skin’s surface – all helping to deliver long-lasting hydration.
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AESTHETIC MEDICINE
IN RECENT YEARS, it has been VERY POPULAR TO PERFORM non-surgical RHINOPLASTY using HYALURONIC ACID DERMAL FILLERS.
Nose on point Karen Ellithorne takes an in-depth look at a trending aesthetic treatment, that of non-surgical rhinoplasty, which offers an alternative to the traditional nose job
he term non-surgical rhinoplasty refers to an aesthetic treatment that is used to alter and shape a person’s nose without surgery. The procedure can fill in depressed areas of the nose, lift the tip angle, or smooth out the appearance of bumps on the bridge of the nose. However, it is not possible for non-surgical rhinoplasty to reduce the size of the nose or nostrils. It is rather a procedure to modify existing features that are already present.
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Photo by Valeria Boltneva from Pexels
Let me take a selfie
The rise of non-surgical rhinoplasty can be directly connected to the selfie phenomenon, which is continually shared on social media. This is largely due to the unflattering angles that selfie images are taken at. The 45- degree angle often makes people aware of drooping nasal tips, or unflattering bumps, that they would not normally even know are there. As more and more patients are becoming aware of what can be achieved with non-surgical rhinoplasty through social media content, the demand for the procedure is continually increasing. People enjoy the fact that the procedure is quick, effective and affordable, making it much more accessible to the population than costly cosmetic surgery. Nonsurgical rhinoplasty also fits in very well with the fast paced lifestyle of the 21st century, where instant gratification has become a way of life.
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AESTHETIC MEDICINE History
Non-surgical nose enhancements originate as far back as the beginning of the 19Th century, when New York City neurologist, James Leonard Corning, began using liquid paraffin to elevate a collapsed nasal dorsum, better known as ‘saddle nose deformity’, which is caused by trauma to the nose but also can be caused by infections of leprosy and syphilis. However, despite the corrective results the procedure offered, the liquid paraffin proved to be biologically harmful. In the 1960s, soft tissue fillers made from medical silicone gel were introduced into the industry, however these proved to be as biologically harmful as the liquid paraffin was, causing ulcers and granulomas. While surgical rhinoplasty is still the primary form of nose enhancements, non-surgical has become an alternative treatment where the required change to appearance is minor. It reduces the potential side-effects of a surgical procedure, namely prolonged swelling, altered sense of smell, numbness, nerve injury and altered breathing. This makes non-surgical approaches more attractive if the result is going to be effective.
Thread TREATMENT RESULTS will be VISIBLE IMMEDIATELY but will CONTINUE TO IMPROVE for SIX TO EIGHT MONTHS, at which point they will begin to be ABSORBED BY THE BODY. RESULTS can last for UP TO TWO YEARS.
One of the benefits of using threads in the nose area is that they have none of the vascular complications that may be associated with hyaluronic acid filler. Possible potential side effects are swelling, bruising, sensitivity and infection.
Needle and thread
Threads used for rhinoplasty do not contain hyaluronic acid that absorbs water and do not require time for the full result to settle. So there is no risk of over correction. The client will see the expected result immediately after the treatment. Threads are placed sub-dermally and stimulate the production of collagen and elastin. As a result of the injury created where the threads have been placed, there is an increase in circulation and lymphatic flow, resulting in better quality skin in the area they are inserted. Results will be visible immediately but will continue to improve for six to eight months, at which point they will begin to be absorbed by the body. Results can last for up to two years.
Get your fill
In recent years, it has been very popular to perform non-surgical rhinoplasty using hyaluronic acid dermal fillers. This particular procedure is favoured for small corrections, like lifting the nose tip, adding height to the bridge of the nose, and to correct asymmetry. However, fillers come with their own potential side effects, namely bruising, swelling, skin discoloration, migration and nodule formation. Migration of the filler can result in the overhanging of the columella (the tissue that links the nasal tip base and separates the nostrils) and widening the bridge of the nose. More serious complications include vascular occlusion, as well as skin necrosis and possibly even blindness. Though these treatments continue to remain popular and effective, a patient needs to ensure that they are being administered by a medically trained professional who can manage the above-mentioned complications effectively, should they occur. A new more recent non-surgical approach involves the use of PDO threads. The threads themselves are made from highly tensile, biodegradable complex carbohydrate polymer and can be used to address minor contour issues and can slim down the size of a wide nose.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Photo by cottonbro from Pexels
Wrapping it up
Unlike a surgical rhinoplasty which is permanent, neither thread or filler non-surgical procedures are, so if you don’t like the results, the procedure can be reversed. Though not ideal, fillers can be dissolved and threads can be removed. However, non-surgical rhinoplasty is still not an ideal scenario as it may lead to additional unwanted complications. As with all aesthetic treatments, always ensure that the treatment is being performed by an aesthetic doctor, on a well prepared patient with realistic expectations.
A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. Email karen@ spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
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DEVICES
The allin-ones
Given the high cost of lightand energy-based aesthetics devices, it makes sense for clinics to consider multiplatform machines that can treat a number of conditions, such as skin rejuvenation, hair removal and lesions, among others
reatment space, market focus, client profile and budget are the main considerations when it comes to investing in a multi-platform light and energy-based device, according to Gary Price of Astra Health Systems. “So, let’s unpack how these four factors can inform your investment decision,” he continues. “In terms of treatment space, having all your technology solutions in one unit without compromising floor space might be a great way to circumvent the problem of only having one or two treatment rooms in your clinic. “Regarding market focus, when you offer a wide range of treatments and are not specialising in one particular service, you can increase your revenue with the diverse treatments advantage of a multi-platform device. “If you look at client profile – IPL technology is very often an ‘anchor tenant’ on a multi-platform system and is therefore a major consideration depending on the majority skin tone of your clients. IPL for skin rejuvenation is generally safe and indicated for light to medium or skin types I – III, while
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Photo by Anna Shvets from Pexels
IPL for hair removal is mostly indicated for all skin types (excluding tanned skin). It is advisable to check the regulatory clearances per manufacturer. For instance, on the Venus Versa, the AC Dual IPL for active acne, the IPL for hair removal, the Nanofractional RF and (MP)2 technologies are all indicated for all skin types. “When considering budget, multiplatform systems from Israel, Europe and America are notoriously more expensive as these traditionally carry the CE mark for medical devices (which is required for sale in South Africa). Depending on the manufacturer, business owners may be able to select which applicators/ technologies they wish to include, and this affects the bottom line. Where a system is supplied with all applicators included, you may be spending more than you hoped, and never use all the applicators.”
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DEVICES
Venus Versa
According to distributor, Astra Health Systems, Venus Concept puts the ‘versa’ back in versatility with the Venus Versa that accommodates 10 applicators, three technologies and five distinct applications, namely IPL for skin rejuvenation, hair removal and active acne; nanofractional RF for skin resurfacing and other skin concerns, and the globally sought after (MP)2 radiofrequency and pulsed electromagnetic field combination for skin tightening, body contouring and cellulite reduction. The award-winning TriBellaTM is an advanced, high intensity, total facial rejuvenation protocol that is only available on the Venus Versa and features IPL Skin Rejuvenation, (MP)2 RF and the nanofractional RF in one 90-mimnute session, yielding superior clinical outcomes. All these are excellent stand-alone treatments, but the combined effect is powerful and extremely popular internationally. It is also a high-revenue package and is offered 4-8 weeks apart, making it entirely possible for clients to budget their treatments across more than one salary cycle. TriBellaTM is therefore a popular configuration for clinics who focus mostly on facial, neck and décolleté treatments for skin tones I-III. Venus Versa can be configured with only the applicators or modalities of your choice. If the needs in your market change, additional applicators can be added. Astra Health Systems has third party finance available on devices and accessories, providing cash flow protection as well as important tax benefits.
DEVICES
Photo by Orhun Rüzgar ÖZ from Pexels
Luxea
W ith the rise in demand for machine-based treatments targeted at skin rejuvenation, skin tightening, hair removal and body contouring/ cellulite treatments, to name just a few treatments, it makes perfect sense for an aesthetic clinic, or a salon offering aesthetic treatments, to invest in a single device that can offer a range of different treatments. Says Wickus Olivier (Jnr) of Hitech Systems: “Investing in a multi-platform system, be it as a start-up or as an addition to an existing business, is often a daunting process. What to buy, who to buy from and the cost, play important roles in this decision. A multi-platform unit provides the advantage of offering a variety of treatments on one system and is the ideal solution for clinics seeking to grow by gradually expanding their patient offering.” Hitech Lasers offers the LUXEA system from DEKA, Italy. The award-winning modular workstation that expands with your clinic, uses eight different technologies and offers 12 handpieces (6 Laser, 5 Pulsed Light and 1 Radiofrequency). There are more than 18,000 available protocols pre-loaded onto the system, offering a cutting-edge device, capable of ensuring effective hair removal, treatment of vascular and pigmented skin lesions and photo rejuvenation. “At any stage, any of the increasingly specialised handpieces may be added, such as those targeting acne or wrinkles, or extend the range of treatments offered with handpieces for removing tattoos or treating cellulite,” notes
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Olivier. “The combination of multiple technologies on a single patient often achieves the best results. With the LUXEA, the cost of these handpieces remains the same, irrespective of whether they are purchased at point of sale or at a later date. Handpieces are warranted with a number of shots and no cards or per shot protocols are required. Handpieces that use lamps only require that the lamp be replaced at its end of life and not the entire handpiece. This is a huge cost saving for the user.” A general specification LUXEA will include four handpieces and gives the ability to treat the following: LILAC – FT Pulsed Light (benign hyperpigmented lesions, photo-ageing, vascular lesions, permanent hair reduction); SPARKS – 1064nm Nd:YAG (vascular lesions: face or legs telangiectasia, spider nevi, cherry angioma, venous lake, permanent hair reduction, skin rejuvenation); SETIS – Multipolar RF (rejuvenation of photo aged skin, skin laxity face and body fibrosclerotic edematous panniculitis i.e. cellulite); and GENUS AX – 755nm Xe Lamp (dedicated to permanent hair reduction). “The cost of such a system, at the current exchange rate and charging an average treatment price, will give an ROI of between 18 – 25% per year. Whilst the advantage of a multi-platform is one device offering many treatments, the disadvantage is that you are still only able to treat one client a time. It is thus important to ensure that you purchase a system from a reputable supplier, with a good reputation for after-sales service and local maintenance, as downtime for services and breakdowns will have an impact on your business. It is also crucial that the system you purchase is CE Certified and most importantly, SAHPRA (South African Health Products Regulatory Authority) licensed, to ensure safe, effective and quality products,” concludes Olivier.
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DEVICES Nordlys
Available from Radiant Healthcare, the Nordlys by Candela features four different types of technologies in a single platform. These are: the SWT (Select Wavelength Technology); the Frax 155; the Frax 1940; and the Nd:Yag technologies. The patented SWT technology uses select wavelength technology with dual filters to deliver narrowband SWT to the target tissue, thus filtering out any potentially harmful wavelengths and making the treatments much safer. Say Radiant Healthcare’s Melissa Eksteen: “The Nordlys is FDA and Medical CE approved, which provides a foundational technology to perform a vast variety of skin treatments using submillisecond pulses and dual filters for enhanced safety and patient comfort.” The Nordlys offers the following treatments in one platform: hair removal; telangiectasia; port wine stains; benign pigmented lesions; rosacea; poikiloderma of civatte; benign epidermal lesions; inflammatory acne vulgaris; leg veins; venous lakes; onychomycosis (nail fungus); warts; and non-ablative skin resurfacing. Eksteen continues: “The running cost of the Nordlys is very low. This device comes with 12 months unlimited pulses and the applicators are guaranteed for life, which means the ROI is amazing and one can pay the system off very quickly.”
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Alma Harmony XL Pro
Says Andrew Best of Best Lasers: “When everything works together perfectly, that’s harmony. Just like the health storm that is Covid-19 came changed our lives forever, we at Best Lasers have the best multi-platform light- and energy-based device that came in and changed the lives of our clients. “Seasonal change can cause a ripple effect in not only our health but also our physical appearance. With clients reaching out for something that is more inclusive of multiple treatments in one setting, we offer the Alma Harmony XL Pro.” This device is Alma Lasers’ globally recognised multiplatform light-and energy-based device that can treat up to 65 FDA-cleared indications. A complete all-in-one solution, it is exactly what clinics and salons need if they want to treat more than one indication in one sitting. The Alma Harmony XL Pro is suitable for all skin types. “What makes our device stand out is that you can personalise or customise each client’s treatment according to their medical or aesthetic needs, thanks to a wide variety of changeable applicators. Using breakthroughs in medical aesthetic research and technology, Harmony helps to stop the clock from head to toe, with a wide variety of treatment solutions customised to your specific needs. “Harmony offers combined treatment options that give you faster, longer lasting results, with fewer treatment sessions and minimal downtime. Clients can rediscover their natural beauty and renew their confidence with optimal results from the start. All Harmony treatments are effective, reliable and have a first-rate safety record proven in extensive clinical studies. The treatments are suitable for all areas of the body, all skin types, and address the specific concerns of all age groups – from teens to older adults. Alma Harmony is a uniquely versatile system that evolves with you addressing your specific concerns today and adapting to your needs as they change over time,” explains Best.
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HAIR NEWS
Doja Cat (Instagram @jstayready)
Hair that rocked the Grammys
British singer-songwriter Dua Lipa, always one to watch out for in terms of red carpet style, rocked super-straight, waist-length platinum blonde hair, topped off with conspicuously dark roots. A simple style that was offset by her complex, dominatrix-style black gown. Socialite and DJ, Paris Hilton, has been seen in a superhigh, Barbie Doll-like ponytail in recent months, and the Grammys was no exception. This time, though, she had a collar bone-length strand of slightly waved hair framing one side of her face. Rapper, Megan Thee Stallion, had buttock-length, super-straight locks cascading down her back, while fellow rapper, Chloe Bailey, sported an intricate look – braids leading into a high ponytail of tightly waved long hair, with baby hair tendrils gelled onto her forehead. Going for a casual look, model Hailey Bieber had her chocolate coloured hair in a loose plait, with long strands framing her face. E!’s ‘Live from the Red Carpet’ host and trans actress, Laverne Cox, has favoured purple-hued hair for some time, and for the Grammy’s, her long hair was clipped back behind the ears and styled by Kiyah Wright. (Report by Joanna Sterkowicz)
The holy grail of music awards, the 64th annual Grammys, took place in Las Vegas recently and proved a true showcase not only of singing talent, but of hairstyling as well. apper of the moment and Grammy winner, Doja Cat, probably had one of the coolest styles on the red carpet, although somewhat difficult to describe. JStayReady (also known as Jared Henderson) styled Cat’s platinum blonde wig into a half up ponytail that was flipped out at the edges, with spikey strands shooting out of the crown of her head. And then of course there were her very short, curled under bangs, which wouldn’t flatter a lot of people, but which looked good on her, as did the two very long thin strands framing her face. Billie Eilish had a similar look in that her do (albeit her own hair and raven black in colour) also involved a spikey half up-do, although her bangs were dead straight and so long they skimmed her eyelashes. Teenage singing sensation and multiple Grammy winner, Olivia Rodrigo’s classic Hollywood-style, long hair was structured into what Glamour Magazine described as ‘polished S-waves’. The look was by Clayton Hawkins. ‘West Side Story’ star, Rachel Zegler, wore an asymmetrical bob with a just off-centre parting and no fringe. This style was created by David von Cannon.
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Olivia Rodrigo (Instagram @claytonhawkins)
Megan Thee Stallion (Instagram @theestallion)
Laverne Cox (Instagram @lavernecox)
Dua Lipa (Instagram @dualipa)
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PRODUCT NEWS
Fat reducing tech
ReBorn is an innovative approach to fat reduction using PowerLED – a military and medical-type LED hundreds of times more powerful than conventional LED and a lifespan of over 50,000 hours. With a 9 x 7 matrix of PowerLED per applicator, the entire 35cm2 applicator is 100% efficient in targeting fat. It has 4 low-profile applicators designed for multiple body areas. 082 089 0383
In the market Our round-up of new products and treatments
Tweeze it out
The new Precision Brow Tweezer by RefectoCil is a high quality professional tweezer made from stainless steel with an ergonomically perfect shape. The beveled tip makes it easy to grip and remove even very short or fine hairs at the roots, which not only allows for the most precise work, but also makes plucking faster and less painful. 082 5756 567 / 031 209 2548
Brighten up
The new Exuviance Professional Brightening Serum is the centrepiece of Exuviance’s Brightening campaign. This lightweight, multi-action serum is formulated to brighten, exfoliate, reduce the appearance of dark spots and diminish the look of uneven skin tone. Ingredients include niacinamide, neoglucosamine and licorice root extract. 011 545 9300
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Crystal needles
Beauté Pacifique’s Symphonique Micro-Needling Puffy Eyes Perfusion Therapy Patches each have about 900 patented self-dissolving crystal needles made of crosslinked hyaluronic acid with effective, anti-ageing ingredients contained within the crystal needles. The patches penetrate gently into the epidermis while sleeping to deliver active ingredients. 073 053 8830
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NAIL FILE ISSUE 53
JULY 2022
Ready, Steady,
Gel!
AT THE TOP OF YOUR GAME
Best Practices
NAIL ART THAT ROCKS Grammys red carpet
ENHANCEMENT SYSTEMS
WELCOME
ho doesn’t love gel enhancements? Surely this must be one of the most popular services at nail salons. For this reason, we have run a special feature in this issue of NailFile on all things gel, as well as expert tips on how to apply this type of enhancement. Now that Covid restrictions have at last eased (thank goodness!), everyone is more open to the idea of attending events and launches, etc. If your salon has ever been the habit of hosting events for clients, maybe now is the time to relook at this, as it’s a great way of marketing your salon and attracting potential new customers through the door. Our ‘Ask the Experts’ article provides some useful pointers in this regard. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
Photo by mh cheraghi from Pexels
What’s INSIDE 41
Industry News Stay in the know
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Ask the Experts
Marketing the salon through events
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Business tips
Best Practices in the nail salon
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Technical
Top tips for gel application
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Systems
Gel enhancement products
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Step by Step Triple threat
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Product Hub
All the latest releases @probeautyexpo
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@PROBEAUTYSA
@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA
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NEWS
Looks that nailed it at the Grammys Scores of fabulous nail designs were on display on the red carpet of the 64th annual Grammys, held recently in Las Vegas. Arguably the most colour-coordinated nails & gown look was sported by Michelle Zauner of the quirkily named alternative pop band, Japanese Breakfast. Her boldly yellow gown was paired with 3D nails in an even more brilliant shade of yellow, created by Celeste Marie Welch. On her Instagram page next to a picture of Zauner, Welch wrote: “Michelle being a bright sun beam, star shine, golden honey dipped, persimmon.” Also going the matchey-matchey route, Halsey had burgundy coloured half-moon nails (by Natalie Minerva) and black tips to go with her intriguing, retro-style two-tone outfit. Social media star Addison Rae, whose nails were also created by Minerva, rocked a French manicure with black tip and opal teardrops. The extra-long, almond-shaped talons of Megan Thee Stallion had a painted tiger’s mouth (complete with fangs), painted on each nail. This theme certainly complemented the rapper’s brown animal print dress. Nail design was by Coca Michelle. Rapper Saweetie’s super-embellished and sparkly silver nails by Tameka Jackson were quite possibly the most dazzling of the night, while fellow rapper, Doja Cat, opted for a more subtle look – long square nails in a plain shimmery nude tone. The look was designed by Saccia. British singer, Dua Lipa, wore such a striking gown that she only needed simple, gold chrome nails (by Kim Truong) to go with it. Said nails matched the plethora of metallic buckles and jewelry on the dress. Model Hailey Bieber was seen alongside famous husband, Justin, on the red carpet with nails by Zola Ganzorigt. To get the perfect natural nude colour, Ganzorigt mixed two OPI shades together.
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Michelle Zauner (Instagram @celestemariewelch)
Dua Lipa (Instagram @dualipa)
Halsey (Instagram @natalieminervanails)
Doja Cat (Instagram @sacciadidthat)
Megan Thee Stallion (Instagram @cocamichelle)
Saweetie (Instagram Tameka Jackson @customnails1)
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NEWS
The Bio Sculpture team with Kerishnie Naicker (centre)
Bio Sculpture launches Affiliate Program for salons South African professional nail brand, Bio Sculpture, has launched its Affiliate Program for salons to earn commission for online product sales without having to hold stock. The announcement was made by brand manager, Eddie Scholtz, at the recent Bio Sculpture 2022 Expo at Montecasino in Johannesburg. Said Scholtz: “We have just launched our online retail store – biosculpture.co.za – and end users can purchase from there. Salons can create an account and when they refer a customer to the online store, they will receive a 20-30% commission. We then deliver the products to the end user. For salons to get a network link from their distributor, they first have to go to our professional site (biosculpture.com) and log onto the ‘Affiliate sign-in’ link.” Scholtz noted that at the previous Bio Sculpture Expo in 2019, the Bio Sculpture Foundation was launched in Clocolan. “Since then, we have had 30 students come through this foundation, which offers nail education to those who can’t afford it. I’m delighted to report that our graduates are now working in the industry. Proceeds from the ticket sales for this year’s expo go to the Foundation to accommodate more scholarship candidates.” Brand authenticity MC for the 2022 Bio Sculpture Expo, former Miss South Africa, Kerishnie Naicker, explained that being a pharmacist by profession, she has always believed in honouring one’s body because then it will honour you. “I respect my nails in the same way,” she continued. “For the last 28 years, even though I am blessed with naturally strong, long nails, I have been having my nails done and tried lots of different brands. Because authenticity, sincerity and integrity are crucial values for me, I won’t endorse any brands falsely. Please note that I don’t share a paid
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partnership with Bio Sculpture – I am here today because of my passion for what Bio Sculpture stands for. This brand has always encouraged me to keep my natural nails. “There is so much science and research behind Bio Sculpture products and, as a qualified pharmacist, I pay close attention to the composition of products. There are no harmful ingredients in Bio Sculpture serving to precipitate change to the natural nail. No primers or harmful ingredients are in these products.” Naicker pointed out that Bio Sculpture came into being when founder, Elmien Scholtz, a nail tech herself, went in search of a good qualify nail care product and couldn’t find one. “So, Elmien set about creating her own brand that put the health of the natural nail first. Elmien believes that our nails are a living organ that needs to be fed and nurtured.”
Nail competition Also part of the Expo were several Bio Sculpture nail competitions. Bronwyn Glasspoole won the Educator’s Nail Art Competition and Rianka Labuschagne the Online Competition; Live Gel Overlay was won by Lesego Tema, while Amanda Stonehouse triumphed in the Live Gel Lengthening category.
Nail competition at the Expo New products The Expo served as the launch pad for several new products, which were demonstrated by Bio Sculpture educators Tania Biddle, Andrea Smith and Nadia Stroh. New products included the Ultra Lamp, Conditioning Gel, Apex Gel, and the Very Peri shade.
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BUSINESS TIPS
Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business
Photo by Radomir Jordanovic
How do I market my salon successfully through events? stablished nail salons should be careful not to make the mistake of placing too much focus on marketing efforts only to bring in new clients. Once you have won your clients over, you need to keep working at ways of keeping them loyal. What you do and how you do it will make all the difference. A very successful way of marketing your business to new and existing clients is through events. I’m not just talking about events that focus only on nails and beauty, but also events focusing on absolutely anything, from music to food, cars, sport, lifestyle, fashion and much more. Even in-house events in your own salon to promote a new product or treatment, or to introduce a new concept, are a great way of keeping new and existing clientele interested.
BEING PRESENT at EVENTS creates BRAND AWARENESS and SHOWS PEOPLE you take your BUSINESS SERIOUSLY. VIP events that invite your top clients to enjoy a free treatment or pamper session and a glass of wine or snacks are a great way of rewarding them for their loyalty. It
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helps to spread the word and word of mouth is a great marketing tool. You could also set up a video camera to record their testimonials and use them on your website, or take photos for your social media channels. In terms of external events that you wish to link with, do your research and make sure you know what’s happening out there, how big the event is going to be and who’s attending. Make contact with the necessary people and stay in touch so you can collaborate with them. Planning for such an event is vital as you need to make sure you have enough staff, products, giveaways and marketing materials such as brochures and business cards. Be strategic in what you will be offering and doing at the event to target and attract the right people. Be careful of offering discount vouchers or giving away irrelevant gifts. Vouchers are only useful if they are connected to something that adds value, for example: instead of offering a discount, rather offer a free product or add on treatment in conjunction with something people buy to the value of a certain amount. This ensures they come in to the salon to try it out, but still spend their money with you. Free product giveaways instead of discounts are also a great way of promoting and introducing a new product.
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for over 30 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.
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BUSINESS
Best Practices in the nail salon First impressions are lasting impressions, regardless of whether they are good or bad. If you’ve ever wondered why a client hasn’t returned to your salon, then you need to establish exactly why, writes Sonette van Rensburg seriously and that they feel safe in a clean, conducive and comfortable environment, with friendly, attentive, professional and highly skilled staff attending to them and their needs. Planning and making sure that staff are adhering to the Best Practices you have in place should be followed through in every area.
The two BIGGEST MISTAKES a NAIL PROFESSIONAL can make are: CUTTING CORNERS TO SAVE TIME and, using CHEAP, UNAUTHORISED PRODUCTS and tools to save money. Mistakes to avoid Image by joedo0209 from Pixabay
he foundation of your success as a nail professional, or running a successful salon, is not only based on what you do, but how you do it. Passion, commitment, confidence, professionalism, knowledge and skill are all imperative. And, following best practices in every part of your nail business and constantly striving to up your game is what will assist you to achieve ongoing success. If you are not offering clients your best in every way possible, they will just go elsewhere. There is so much more to just performing a nail service – it’s about delivering ongoing service excellence beyond your client’s expectations. Clients want service excellence but are also pushed for time, so how do you juggle this without cutting corners? Make sure your clients are being taken
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The past two years have been tough on our industry, leaving many cash strapped and needing to save money. However, the two biggest mistakes a nail professional can make are: cutting corners to save time and, using cheap, unauthorised products and tools to save money. Neither are going to be of benefit to you or your clients in the long run and this is often where standards and levels of service are compromised. Once this happens, it is usually too late. If there is something you will not use or do on yourself, then why would you do so on a client?
Health & safety first
This is unfortunately lacking immensely in our industry and is one of the most fundamental aspects in making sure that not only you and your staff are safe, but most importantly your clients. Following general rules of safe practice when working with people is imperative. Your clients need to trust that nothing you do will be detrimental to the health of their nails and skin, or harm them in any way. E-Files seem to be making much more of an appearance nowadays and can assist in speeding up a nail service. There is nothing wrong with them except when they are in the wrong hands. Even a nail file and implements in the wrong hands can be detrimental and are the biggest cause of nail damage. It all comes down to being properly educated and knowledgeable, making sure you use good quality tools, and knowing how to use them correctly.
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BUSINESS
When Covid-19 first hit, everyone was putting strict hygiene, sanitation and protective measures in place, when they should always have been anyway. Now that strict regulations and wearing of masks is no longer necessary, let’s not stop being diligent about following these practices. Also, don’t compromise your safety and that of your clients by working on contagious skin and nail conditions, just because you don’t want to turn a client away and lose their money.
Knowledge
Knowledge and education are key to Best Practices. If you or your staff aren’t confident in doing something because of a lack of knowledge and skills, your clients will know. The internet and social media are flooded with videos sharing tips and tricks to save time and money, but some of these are rather questionable. There are some very helpful online learning sites sharing the correct information, with experts providing the appropriate advice and demonstrating some very helpful skills. It’s crucial to be able to recognise when these are the real deal and when they are not. Continuing you and your staff’s education to
elevate not only skill levels, but also to grow your knowledge, on top of using the best products available and knowing the science behind them, is vital.
Top Tips • Plan and implement proper practices and effective client communication. • Practice unwavering high standards of salon sanitation and safety • Consistently update you and your staff’s professional skills • Use good quality products, systems and tools that are safe and effective • Be brand loyal and follow correct recommended full system’s use
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for over 30 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.
TECHNICAL
for gel application Top tips
It’s not just about the quality of gel product that you apply to your client’s nails, it’s also very much about how you apply it. Nail expert Elaine Timcke gives the lowdown
Image by Iguanat from Pixabay
reparation is the most important part of a gel application. Always ensure you spend enough time effectively preparing the nails and cleaning the cuticle area to ensure the gel application lasts long and does not lift. Proper preparation will also aid in ease of application. Good preparation can sometimes take longer than the application, if done correctly. Don’t skip any steps.
kept neat throughout the day. This will ensure that you are able to work effectively and quickly. It also prevents any unwanted germs creeping their way into your salon.
Stick to a single brand
Knowledge
Ensure not to mix your various gel brands when performing a gel application. Each system is unique in its application steps and products have been designed to work together in harmony. Mixing the steps and products can lead to problems in the end result and negatively affect the longevity of the application.
Cuticle area
Be careful of the cuticle area. Apart from improper preparation, the other reason for gel lifting from the nails can be due to gel application touching the cuticle area. This creates an area where customers are more likely to pick at the nails, causing lifting. It can also cause daily activities to more easily affect the gel application, resulting in lifting. Work as close to the cuticle area as possible without touching it.
Thickness of layer
Most soft gels require only a thin layer of gel. Applying gel too thickly can prevent proper curing, affecting the end result of the application. Thick gel normally results in a lumpy, uneven finish or wrinkled gel. The reverse is also applicable, whereby too thin an application can lead to the gel not curing, or creating craters during the curing application.
Keep it clean
Cleanliness is important. Ensure your gel brushes, gel pots, containers and other tools are cleaned as you go, and
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Lamps
To speed up a gel application process you can have two curing lamps handy. One for the left hand and one for the right hand. This is also more comfortable both for the client and the nail tech.
Education is key. Always be open to learning and improving, it will set you apart from your competitors. Ensure you attend a training course for the gel brand that you are working with, even if you are a qualified technician. Each brand of gel has a specific application method, product protocol, curing time and application procedure that is unique to that brand. Most brands also offer a quick and easy conversion course for trained technicians that make it easy to attend. Attending such a course will ensure you are able to make the most of the product you are working with, offering the absolute best to your customers.
Be gentle
Most soft gel systems don’t require harsh preparation of the nail. Ensure you do your research when finding a gel system and opt for one that does not require a harsh preparation of the nail plate. Your customers will thank you.
Elaine Timcke qualified at the International Academy of Health & Skincare in 2007 as a health & skincare therapist. She has been working in the industry since then, in various salons, spas on cruise ships, and for quality industry brands like Calgel. Timcke is currently employed at Calgel as the Sales & Marketing manager.
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SYSTEMS
Gel Mania
Photo by This Is Zun from Pexels
Unquestionably one of the most popular services among clients, gel enhancements are a sure-fire revenue generator for nail salons. Here we look at some of the leading professional systems on the market el enhancements became popular in the 1980s and have not been around for quite as long as the traditional liquid & powder system. So says Sonette van Rensburg, consulting education ambassador for Exclusive Beauty Solutions and CND. She continues: “Gels were only available in a pot, but offered an easier application technique without having to be mixed. However, they could also be messy and more difficult to work with. Two types of gels emerged during this time: traditional or permanent gels and soakable or removable gels,
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offering a semi-permanent option. “Since professional gel polish manicures and services were first introduced in 2010, gel enhancements and coatings have transformed the nail industry. As a result, new innovations and advancement in product technology have constantly been introduced.”
The science of gel
Van Rensburg points out that all gels are made up of short, pre-formed monomer chains known as oligomers, with a single chain being as long as 15,000 monomers, creating a thick gel consistency that is light curable. Gels are generally low odour to odour free because of
their thicker viscosity, which reduces evaporation and odour. “We all know that nail enhancement products come from the same acrylic family and are somewhat like cousins, but they polymerise through different means. Liquid (monomers) & powder (polymers) is a two-part system that polymerises when mixed together. Gel is an oligomer, or single component system, with precise levels of ingredients called photoinitiators and which requires a UV/ LED lamp to cure them. As most gels are acrylate based, they also have a high potential for allergic reactions, so they need to be used correctly,” she explains.
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SYSTEMS
Bio Sculpture
Created by South African professional nail brand, Bio Sculpture, BIOGEL is the original, professional, soak-off, easy wear nail gel system in a jar. With a 5-star Safety Rating boasting natural nail health, it beautifully enhances and transforms any nail. A scientifically formulated pure gel range which varies from flexible to solid, BIOGEL is suitable for every nail type and is excellent for extending and strengthening nails. This durable, chip resistant, self levelling system with a long-lasting gloss finish, cures in 30 seconds and removes in 10 to 15 minutes. With a range exceeding 200 colours, nail art and overlay possibilities for nail techs are endless. New, fashionable colours are launched seasonally, adding to the BIOGEL range and with a matching nail polish range. Bio Sculpture founder, Elmien Scholtz, was inspired to create the brand when, as a qualified therapist and nail technician many years ago, she opened her first salon and was unable to find any premium quality nail care products. She continued her studies in the USA, attending training in artificial nail systems. Ultimately Scholtz concluded that if she wanted a leading nail care product to meet all her requirements, it would have to be developed from the ground up. Her goal was not only set on beautiful nails, but also on nail health. By consulting with the best scientists in their respective fields and applying the latest technologies available, Bio Sculpture Gel was born. Today, the company’s head office is situated Clocolan, with a 3000sqm ultra-modern factory that is ISO 22716 certified for Good Manufacturing Practices and is managed under ISO 9001 Quality Management Systems.
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Photo by Ivan Samkov from Pexels
A gas permeable system allows for trapped moisture to evaporate; this also ensures the health of the nails as it prevents the formation of microbes. The system also prevents softening of the nails and lifting of the gel. Calgel is easily removed without using filing machines – just a quick buff and soak-off with Calaway solution is required. Other benefits of Calgel include low to no odour, less dust, and the use of only the best quality cosmetic pigments in the colour gels.
Calgel
This reliable, durable soft gel system has been in existence since 1981. Economic and easy to use, Calgel offers a versatile, durable solution to gel nails. The most important of its many features is that it is nondamaging to the natural nails. With the correct application and removal techniques, Calgel promises to keep the quality of the natural nails intact, even after years of wear. Calgel does not require any harsh chemicals or primers in preparation for application, nor does it need any harsh buffing or filing on the surface of the natural nails. This system has a natural look and feel, is long-lasting and grows with the natural nails due to the flexible quality of the gel. The option to refill instead of soak-off also adds to the non-damaging quality of the product, as less soaking equals less damage. Calgel promotes healthy nail growth and in some cases can be used to help rehabilitate damaged nails.
Nailz
Positioned as a modern, trendsetting brand, Nailz offers a comprehensive range of products to satisfy all nail technicians. With over 160 exciting gel colours and a range of accessories to choose from, the Nailz gel enhancement system focuses on easy application. It only requires two coats, which saves the nail tech both time and money. The brand boasts streak-free application and a fast drying time. Nailz is a cruelty free brand that doesn’t use animal products, nor does it test on animals.
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SYSTEMS
CND
Back in 2004, CND introduced the BRISATM Gel system, an advanced polymer innovation making it a vast improvement on light curable gels. In 2020 CNDTM extended its legacy in science and innovation with a unique all in one brush-in-a-bottle gel enhancement system called PLEXIGEL®. This system is positioned as unique in the market in that it is a monomer rich oligomer, which provides the best of both worlds, offering a lightweight yet flexible, durable and versatile nail enhancement system. PLEXIGEL® safely fixes, lengthens, shapes, builds and protects without damage to the natural nails. It lasts for up to 3+ weeks, and can be rebalanced without removal. This professionally applied service offers nail professionals of all skill levels a versatile and convenient way to add shape and length to the natural nails, without the use of pots, tubes and additional tools. Due to CND PLEXIGEL® being an easy to use, brush on application system, it is a great bridge for beginners to learn enhancements. It also provides more advanced nail professionals with speed and convenience by cutting rebalancing time and filing in half. Furthermore, PLEXIGEL® offers a Photo by Lisa from Pexels
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flawless surface for perfect colour application, as well as a crystal clear canvas for creating a variety of nail art options. CND recently launched Colour Builders, in a variety of neutral shades, so that nail professionals can build a natural looking nail and save on service time, by having enhancements and color all in one.
Gelish
Gelish describes itself as the gold standard in soak-off gel. Unlike other soak-off gels, Gelish’s award winning patented formula applies like lacquer for an easier, no-drag application and smoother product lay down. The formula provides better self-leveling, a streak-free finish, and more complete curing for longer wearing, chip free nails. The Gelish formulation ensures even better product flow for a perfect finish. And with a laser-cut brush and extra bristles, it picks up and lays down the perfect amount of product for a glass like finish. The domed brush edges also allow for more control near the cuticle for a flawless nail. Gelish’s bottle is more than great looking. The 100% opaque packaging prevents light from penetrating the bottle and the gray brush stem stops light leakage through the cap. The ergonomically
designed cap and bottle fit comfortably in the hand for hours of strain free services. And for those who like a strong colour designation on the packaging, the shoulder colour ring and front colour dot lets you see the colour, whether on a shelf or in a drawer. Embracing Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer’s bottle and cap shape, Gelish is now a perfect match to its sister brand. In addition to a common bottle, Gelish and Morgan Taylor have matching colour names and common product numbers, making it easier to order and match colours. Gelish is PETA friendly and vegan free.
Zsa Zsa Nails
Zsa Zsa offers a selection of builder gels. No Heat Builder Gel Non-soak off gel (i.e. buff-off hard gel) is clear and very thick, with no heat or burning sensation, and suitable for soft and thin nails. Pro Balance Builder Gel Non-soak off gel is medium consistency with the perfect self-leveling property. It is suitable for all nail types and comes in beige, pink and solid white. One&Only Gel is a non-soak off acryl gel or hybrid gel, which is a combination of both hard gel and acrylic. It works with the Zsa Zsa Nails smooth solution and comes in five colours: Clear, Light Pink, Light Beige, Cover Pink and Bright White.
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STEP BY STEP
Triple Threat
Created by Tania Biddle, this lovely design incorporates a trio of nail art techniques – ombre, foil and threading gel
Step 1
Apply a base layer and cure. Select two colour gels. Apply one of the colours to the left side of the nail. Do not cure. Apply the other colour to the right side of the nail. Do not cure. Using a clean and soft gel brush, blend the two colours in the centre of the nail, using very soft brush pressure and overlapping brush strokes. Cure. Repeat the process and then apply a layer of base gel. Cure.
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Step 2
Gently tap foil onto the nail to the cured layer of gel. Repeat until the desired design is achieved.
Step 3
Use a dotting tool to apply black threading gel over the bottom half of the nail. Cure.
Step 4
Use a dotting tool dipped into black gel to place dots, adding detail to the design. Cure. Seal with a gloss top coat. Cure and cleanse *Bio Sculpture products were used to achieve this design
Tania Biddle is the owner of Plush Nails & Beauty in Roodepoort. Biddle is also head of education for Bio Sculpture.
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IN THE MARKET
No wiping required
CND’s Shellac No-Wipe+ Top Coat is a high gloss, high performance top coat for ultimate artistic effects, including chrome and embellishments. This product adds a flawless, shatterproof, high shine, protective layer with up to three weeks of wear. It has an easy-toremove, vegan, cruelty-free and low-odour formula. 011 791 4027
Photo by Rodnae Productions from Pexels
Product Hub
Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails Tips to die for
Gelish Soft Gel Tips are made with a unique, soft jelly-material that gives ultimate flexibility. These tips cover from the cuticle to the free edge and move with the contour of the natural nail for a perfect fitting, with a stronger and more break-resistant design. They are available in four ready-to-wear styles: Medium Round, Medium Coffin, Long Coffin, and Long Stiletto. 011 447 0659
Dazzling shades
Nailz Gel Polish has added 13 new sparkling colours to its range. These brilliant colours contain crushed diamond powder that creates strong light bursts, just like a diamond when light shines on it. Easy to apply, the range delivers long-lasting, chip-resistant colour with a high-shine, glossy finish. 011 262 2451
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