AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS
incorporating
POINT-TO-POINT
MESOTHERAPY vs MICRO-NEEDLING
DARK MATTER
TREATING PIGMENTATION
Jan/Feb 2020 | probeauty.co.za
SWING SHIFT
TRENDSPOTTING FOR 2020
16
30
In this issue...
42
Regulars
Spa Focus
Aesthetic Medicine
4 Industry news
24 Future watch
42 Kick-starting the revitalisation process
Local and international news
48 Product news
All the latest launches
50 SAAHSP
News from the Professional Body
Business 12 Ask the Experts
All your questions answered
15 Insider
Tracking the industry with stats
16 When beauty meets AI
The impact of AI on the industry
20 Face up to conflict
Dealing with employee underperformance
21 Talking to…Val Carstens
19 Creating a wealth of health
27 Pushing the boundaries of spa treatments
Namibian spa’s customisation strategy
VivAri Spa
Features 28 The ins and outs of mesotherapy
A doctor’s viewpoint
Skin rejuvenation devices
46 Natural ‘tweakments’
Aesthetic medicine trends for 2020
Nails 51 NailFile
Issue 30
30 Collagen induction therapy unpacked
Focus on micro-needling
32 To the point
Micro-needling devices
40 Pigmentation
Causes and treatments
Hair 34 Talking to…Michael Dobie
Q&A with Environ CEO
Case Study
2020 spa trends
Q&A with Henkel Country Manager Beauty Care Professional
36 Man-cave with a difference
Medellin Gentlemen Groomers – The Barber Cartel
24
38 Products
Latest releases
online @ probeauty.co.za
Welcome
2
A
t the beginning of every year we look forward to a (hopefully) better year than the previous one. While the effects of South Africa’s struggling economy are still being felt, in particular by beauty salons and some of their distributors, there is a definite feeling of hope for this year. Despite the woes at power utility Eskom, and some of the country’s other parastatals – most notably SAA and SABC – there are signs (albeit small) that the economy may, at last, be making something a recovery. So let’s all be positive and look forward to a good 2020. Having said that, as our lead news story reveals, there is something of an upheaval in the Mpumalanga beauty industry, where several spa and beauty salons have taken issue with what they term ‘the bullying tactics’ and demands of the Bargaining Council, a regulatory body set up by government. Industry stakeholders are in the process of drawing up a petition listing their grievances in the midst of an environment, which they say, is seeing many beauty businesses close their doors as they cannot meet the Bargaining Council’s requirements. Over the past year, CBD (Cannabidiol) seems to have taken the global beauty sector by storm, with many skincare and body care products now being formulated with this ingredient. However, it is important to know the South African legalities pertaining to CBD products, which is why we have included in this issue of Professional Beauty, an article on the topic penned by an expert. We have also included informative articles about both mesotherapy and micro-needling, detailing the specific applications for both of these skin rejuvenation modalities, and the requirements for performing them. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA
AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS
incorporating
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POINT-TO-POINT
MESOTHERAPY vs MICRO-NEEDLING
DARK MATTER
TREATING PIGMENTATION
Jan/Feb 2020 | probeauty.co.za
SWING SHIFT
TRENDSPOTTING FOR 2020
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4 News
News Mpumalanga industry up in arms over Bargaining Council Several beauty salons and spas in Mpumalanga are objecting to what they describe as the ‘bullying tactics’ of the National Bargaining Council for the Hairdressing Cosmetology Beauty & Skincare Industry in South Africa. The Council takes its statutory authority from the South African Labour Relations Act (Act 66 of 1995), with registration to the Council mandated by the Main Collective Agreement, as signed by the Minister. A spa owner in the Mpumalanga area, who wished to remain anonymous, told Professional Beauty that some businesses had shut their doors as they were unable to meet the Council’s levies, with numerous therapists retrenched. Professional Beauty contacted the Council’s acting CEO, Frik Bekker, for comment. He replied: “We are not aware of any owners who closed down in Mpumalanga, or of any therapist retrnechments.” The spa owner continued: “Myself and other owners in the area find the Council levy structure outrageous and believe that the Mpumalanga industry pays the highest Council levies in South Africa.” Bekker responded: “The Council levy is payable by the employer and the employee. For establishments registered prior to November 2017, there is a fixed rate applicable to both the employer and employee contribution, in line with other provinces in South Africa. For establishments registered after November 2017, the contribution by the employer and employee are both based on 1.3% of the Contributing Wage. “Because Mpumalanga falls within the extension of scope of the Council, we’ve phased in the online @ probeauty.co.za
levies – contributions are limited to 60% in year 1 (2020), 80% in year 2 (2021) and then only 100% in year 3 (2022).”
Pension Fund A big area of contention is the Pension Fund. Said another spa owner, who also did not wish to be named: “The Council is pressuring us to contribute to the Pension Fund but our therapists are unwilling to pay a substantial chunk of their monthly salary to a pension fund, as they need that money for transport, etc. Similarly, many owners can’t afford to match each therapist’s monthly Pension Fund fee. And, we’ve been given no indication of the Pension Fund payout.” Bekker responded: “The Parties to the Council – the EOHCB (Employers Organisation for Hairdressing Cosmetology and Beauty) and the Union – negotiate the contributions for all funds applicable to industry on an annual basis. The HBSI (Hairdressing Beauty Skincare Industry) Pension Fund contribution is 12% of the prescribed minimum salary, with 6% payable by the employee and 6% payable by the employer based on the prescribed minimum salary as published in the wages schedules. For Mpumalanga, the contributions payable have been phased to only include 60% of the contributions in year 1, 80% in year 2 (2021) and then only 100% in year 3 (2022). “Owners can apply for exemptions from the Pension Fund should they wish to rather utilise an alternative fund, as long as benefits are equal or greater than the HBSI Fund.” He noted that the HBSI Fund will only pay out should the
employee retire, leave the industry completely, become permanently disabled, or pass away. Then, the accumulated savings, as well as three times the employee’s prescribed annual salary, and the funeral benefit will pay out to the beneficiaries.
Illegal businesses Owners believe that while they are being pressured into complying with the Council, there are several illegal hair and beauty salons in the area that the Council refuses to approach. According to Bekker, the Department of Labour has exempted the following: hairdressing, cosmetology, beauty and/or skincare services rendered from a canvas or sail gazebo, or if such services are rendered in open spaces, unless chemicals are used in the execution of such services, then such places or premises will be considered an establishment. He said: “As previously mentioned, Mpumalanga forms part of the extension of scope for the Council and we are in the area on a constant basis to ensure compliance by all businesses. Information sessions were held in 2019 and this will continue in 2020 to assist all salon or spa owners to become compliant, but also to understand the purpose of the Council and how it functions within the legal framework of South Africa, as well as the Labour Relations Act.” A petition detailing the above issues (and many more) is being drawn up by industry stakeholders, with the help of a member of the ANC Women’s League, for the Council’s attention. For a more detailed account of this article please visit www.probeauty.co.za
7 News
inbrief // Santé Wellness Retreat & Spa recently won Best Country Spa on a Global Level and Best Boutique Spa in Africa at the 2019 Haute Grandeur Excellence Awards™. It also won the awards for Africa’s Best Day Spa and South Africa’s Best Wellness Retreat at the World Spa Awards™.
// The Laser Beautique recently coordinated an event at Morningside Shopping Centre in Sandton to highlight its aesthetic services and its new Facefit BeauRejuve handheld device, incorporating LED. Brands that participated in the event included Wellness Warehouse, Body Tech, MUD Studio, Colour Box and Snob Milano.
// Psychedelic assisted therapy, psychobiotics and smart clothes are among the latest spa and wellness trends to look out for, according to Spa Executive & Book4Time. Other trends are energy healing ,
next generation aromatherapy and elevated ethical standards.
Physical activity market set for exponential growth According to a new report from the Global Wellness Institute (GWI), the physical activity market is currently valued at $828 billion and is predicted to reach $1.1 trillion+ by 2023. The GWI defines the physical activity market as incorporating sports, active recreation, fitness and mindful movement core segments, along with the supporting markets of equipment and supplies, apparel and footwear, and technology. Titled, ‘Move To Be Well: The Global Economy of Physical Activity’, the GWI report notes that with this new data, wellness jumps to a $4.5 trillion global market. “This new global data stream is meant to encourage business leaders and policymakers to see physical
activity as a comprehensive sector, and one that’s critical in supporting lifestyles that are crucial to good health,” notes Ophelia Yeung, GWI senior researcher and report co-author. “Despite the physical activity boom, sedentary lives, obesity and chronic disease are all exploding right alongside the fitness market’s explosive growth.” Katherine Johnston, GWI senior researcher and co-author, added: “When people think ‘fitness industry’ they think gyms, boutique studios, yoga and fit-tech like wearables, but there are so many ways we can get enough exercise to stay healthy – from playing sports to dancing to biking to work. And there are huge opportunities for businesses to get more people physically active.” To access the full report, go to https://globalwellnessinstitute.org
SA spa wins international award
// Drinkable collagen product, Collagen Lift Paris Red Carpet , has won the Victoire de la Beauté Award for best beauty product in France. Red Carpet is the flagship product of Collagen Lift and is distributed in South Africa by ProlongLife.
// L&N Marketing recently held an open day at its headquarters in Houghton, Johannesburg to introduce the new Sans Soucis Caviar & Gold range, as well as the Janssen Cosmetics Men’s Range, its pigmentation range and four new Elixirs, which replace the brand’s serums.
Heather’s Spa in Hazyview, near the Kruger National Park, has won the 2019 World Luxury Spa Award for Best Unique Experience Spa, Regional Winner: Southern Africa. Says owner Heather van der Westhuizen: “I’m very proud to receive this award as it serves as recognition of sustained commitment to service excellence and outstanding achievement in the international luxury spa and wellness industry.” online @ probeauty.co.za
News
8
Dermalogica FITE supports Pinky Promise against GBV Dermalogica FITE (Financial Independence Through Education) is partnering with non-profit organisation, Pinky Promise, to raise awareness to support the fight against Gender Based Violence (GBV). Says Teresa Mordoh, CEO of Dermalogica South Africa: “In support of Pinky Promise, Dermalogica will FITE against GBV by providing women with tangible skills to become financially
independent, enabling them to exit abusive relationships and still support themselves and their families. “Late last year, we dedicated the fourth quarter gifting programme, #skincarethatliftsyou, to the launch of the Pinky Promise campaign against GBV. Funds were raised through a specially dedicated ‘Lift and Glow’ Dermalogica treatment, with 10% of the proceeds going to the Pinky Promise movement.”
Radiant Healthcare expands
New master trainer for Beauté Pacifique
Julia Wills has joined Beauté Pacifique Africa as international master trainer and aesthetician. “I started my career in health and skincare almost 20 years ago and couldn’t be prouder to be associated with a brand that is driven by proven medical results, excellence in execution and service, and which can perform state of the art ultrasound skin health scanning, the first of its kind in South Africa,” says Wills.
Two key personnel have joined the team at Radiant Healthcare – Rohan Pretorius as sales representative in the Johannesburg head office, with Liesl de Koning heading up the regional sales division of the company’s new branch in Cape Town. Says Radiant Healthcare’s Jacques Pretorius: “Liesl is a nutritionist with an honours degree in Biokinetics. She has extensive qualifications in the fitness industry, with 12 years of experience in health and wellness. “Rohan has a Bachelor’s Degree in Management studies, with majors in Economics and Marketing. He has experience in the financial services and has a passion for both technology and physiology.”
Changes at Dermacare
Luxury cosmetics market booms The Global Luxury Cosmetics Market size is expected to reach $75.5 billion by 2025, rising at a market growth of 5.6% CAGR (Compound Annual Growth Rate). This is according to a new report from ReportBuyer, which notes that luxury products and/or luxury cosmetics have conquered the market with a wide range of products that are manufactured by using organic and premium quality ingredients. These products online @ probeauty.co.za
are sold at high prices as compared to their counterpart drugstore products. Luxury cosmetics mainly cover skincare, make-up products, hair care and fragrances. The report cites the existence of counterfeit products as a prominent factor that has produced a setback to the luxury cosmetics industry. It notes that a new emerging new trend is the acceptance and demand for halal cosmetics.
In addition to launching a brand new user-friendly website, Dermacare Distributors has appointed Xané Haydock as its new representative for the Johannesburg area. Says Dermacare’s Tracy Barkhan: “Xané has a diploma in Health and Skincare and four years of experience in the industry. “Our Cape Town representative, Aneli Esterhuyse, will now also be covering the Garden Route region.”
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Placecol celebrates 40 years in the industry
South African skincare brand, Placecol, turned 40 in January 2020. “We plan to have an entire year of celebration, with many exciting offers and promotions running throughout,” says Esna Colyn, CEO of Imbalie Beauty, owner of Placecol. “Celebrating this significant milestone gives us cause to reflect on the history of the Placecol brand, as I’ve learnt that one should never forget where you came from,” continues Colyn. Colyn first met Elma McKenzie, the founder of Placecol in January 2014, four years into her tenure at Imbalie Beauty. She continues: “Elma, a qualified radiographer, and her husband, Leslie McKenzie, a qualified pharmacist and homeopath, founded Placecol in Ermelo in January 1980. “At that stage in South Africa’s skincare history, there was no local manufacturer of cosmetics for the pharmacies and only a few beauty clinics. Elma and Leslie saw the potential market to manufacture a South African cosmetic range for these particular markets. The name Placecol is derived from the words placenta and collagen.”
of the Manketti nut in their formulations; the nut oil was the basis for Placecol’s new range.
Exhibition Elma’s first exhibition for Placecol took place at a beauty congress in Cape Town in 1981, while the first ever article about Placecol was published in the Keur magazine. At that time, Elma McKenzie was the MD, the marketing manager, the financial manager, the courier, the sales representative (with a nanny and three little ones in the combi) and even the bottle filler of the products. Placecol later manufactured a full range for dry, sensitive skin types. At a later stage, the range for normal to combination skin was followed by a range for oily, problem skin.
Miracle cream “When a specific demand for a pigmentation treatment that actually produced results arose, Leslie did extensive research on pigmentation and formulated a miraculous cream that gave Placecol the biggest growth ever. The demand for Placecol’s Miracle Cream was ignited in pharmacies all over the country without much effort. “Elma and Leslie’s dream was to establish Placecol in the cosmetic market. The brand was available in 800 pharmacies and beauty clinics throughout South Africa. It was exported and also did contract manufacturing for other companies like Isa Carstens Cosmetics,” explains Colyn.
Business sold
Challenges
There were many challenges in terms of buying raw materials and chemicals, with most ingredients having to be imported. Packaging was also very difficult to source and at one stage, Placecol was packed into glass jars imported from France. At the beginning, Placecol could only afford packaging for two different products – a night cream and cell therapeutic ampules. In a unique move, the McKenzies patented the use
Congress overseas, where she saw a soft laser machine, with large potential once combined with Placecol products. As laser was then the new ‘buzz word’ in beauty therapy, this opened the door to reach more pharmacies.
Full range By 1983, Placecol had a full range of cosmetics which was easier to put onto the shelves of pharmacies. In 1988, McKenzie attended the CIDESCO World
In May 1998, the Placecol business was sold to Wessel de Wet and Charles Moolman. Under their tenure, Placecol became a supplier to Edgars in 2003. A year later Placecol Cosmetics opened its first Placecol Beauty Centre, which was franchised in 2006. The Placecol Beauty Institute opened in 2005. Two years later, Placecol acquired the Dream Nails franchise group and listed the Placecol Group on the Johannesburg Stock Exchange. Colyn continues: “Two years after listing, both Charles and Wessel resigned from our group. In 2019, we launched Placecol Excellence, our first biological solution to change skin on a cellular level. In December 2019 we made our first entry into the hotel industry.” online @ probeauty.co.za
News
11
Business Tips
12
ask
the EXPERTS
Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.
I’m thinking of incorporating CBD products into my salon offering but want to make sure that CBD is a legal substance before committing. Known for its holistic health benefits, cannabis has certainly become a game changer in this dynamic industry. With a wide array of suppliers rapidly entering the South African market, it is vital that you do your homework before stocking cannabis products. Certain local and imported items carry the risk of being removed from our shelves due to legal non-compliance. Cannabis contains over 113 cannabinoids, responsible for an array of therapeutic benefits. CBD (Cannabidiol) and THC (Tetrahydrocannabinol) are the most well-studied, with THC being the psychostimulant cannabinoid. Hemp is a member of the Cannabis sativa family and is cultivated for non-drug use. It contains less than 0.3% of THC. Therefore, hemp-derived products are non-intoxicating and will not impair your mental clarity. Marijuana can be a member of both the Cannabis sativa or Cannabis indica family and is cultivated for recreational and medicinal use. It typically contains high levels of THC, ranging from 5 - 35%.
online @ probeauty.co.za
CBD is not ‘dagga’ – so source your CBD responsibly and experience its holistic benefits. Legislation In recent years, many parts of the world have started adopting laws broadly legalising cannabis, ranging from decriminalisation to legalisation for recreational purposes. So, where does this leave us in South Africa? Prior to 23 May 2019, CBD was classified in terms of the Medicines and Related Substances Act 101 of 1965 (Medicines Act) as either a Schedule 4 or Schedule 7 medicine. As a result of the good safety profile of a low dose of CBD, the Minister of Health subsequently ruled that CBD products with a maximum daily dose of 20mg per day and an accepted low risk claim and health benefit will be excluded from Schedule 4. CBD products should also contain less than 0.001% THC (Government Notice No R756, Government Gazette No. 42477). Only products that meet these specifications are currently permitted for use in South Africa.
Cannabis laws differ between countries and what is legal abroad may not necessarily be permitted in South Africa. The USA, for example, is allowed to distribute CBD products with THC concentrations of up to 0.3%. Many suppliers import these products, assuming they are legal in South Africa, hence imparting a risk onto the local businesses that purchase it. The source of the product is critical – you need to ensure that CBD products are hemp-derived, and that growers have the necessary licenses in place. To ensure safety, check that the products have been manufactured in a GMP compliant facility and that all the necessary tests have been conducted. Ensure the dosages and strengths are clearly indicated. If travelling, check whether CBD is legal in your country of destination. Most often it is marijuana that is prohibited and not CBD. Rest assured, CBD is not ‘dagga’ – so source your CBD responsibly and experience its holistic benefits.
Head of sales at Goodleaf, René Moodley is a biochemist with over 18 years of experience within the nutritional, scientific and biotechnology industries. For the past 15 years, Moodley has worked internationally in sales, business development, strategy and market research. rene@goodleaf.co.za
Business Tips
13 What exactly is cryolipolysis and how does it work?
The story of how cryolipolysis became a preferred method for non-invasive fat removal is a rather peculiar one. Who would have thought that kids eating too many popsicles could lead to an advancement in the medical sciences!? Well, in the 1970s, Epstein and Oren reported fat necrosis in the cheek of an infant after sucking on a popsicle! Studies revealed that it caused inflammation of the fat cells in the cheeks, which resulted in them dissolving with time. In 2007, Doctors Anderson and Manstein from Harvard University did further work and the ‘popsicle panniculitis’ phenomenon paved the way for what we now know as cryolipolysis (or fat freezing), which they developed. The two doctors published their first clinical reports of successfully removing ‘love handles’ with fat freezing and received FDA (US Federal Drug Administration) approval for this method in 2010. Subsequent approval was obtained for various other parts of the body, including abdomen, back bra strap area, inner and outer thighs, and under the buttock cheek, as well as underarms and submental. The physiological basis for this treatment is simple; selective extraction of heat from adipocytes in subcutaneous tissue for an extended period results in
immediate fat cell demise and gradual apoptosis (a natural controlled cell death). Lipids from the fat cells are slowly released and transported to the lymphatic system to be processed and eliminated. This is a very important point to be highlighted when educating potential patients considering this treatment method. Ideal candidates are patients who follow a healthy diet, who exercise and who would like to improve their body shape by eliminating stubborn localised pockets of fat.
Ideal candidates are patients who follow a healthy diet, who exercise and who would like to improve their body shape by eliminating stubborn localised pockets of fat. How does it work? Numerous types of machines are available, some combining technologies like radiofrequency or ultrasound cavitation, others using only cryolipolysis technology via either two or four treatment handles. A vacuum is used to suction the skin and subcutaneous fat layer into the
treatment cups, where the cooling plates are situated. Good contact is required for efficient cooling, therefore a variety of different sized handles are available, and a qualified therapist will be able to secure the handles comfortably to the treatment area. A quality machine will offer an initial period of skin warming before the cooling starts. This increases patient comfort significantly, and the machine should also have an emergency stop button for the patient to use when they feel they need it. Depending on the thickness of the fat layer, treatment settings can be adjusted between 0 and -15 Celsius, and from 30 to 60 minutes, followed by manual massage. Results for the area will become visible after six to eight weeks and a repeat treatment can be scheduled after 45 days if required. Optimal results are visible between three and six months. The treatment is described as comfortable, especially once the initial tugging sensation caused by tissue being drawn into the applicator is relieved by the cooling of the area. Patients can return to normal activities directly after treatment and minimal side-effects have been reported. PB
Dr Andrea Botha (M Tech Chiro), who has a special interest in the aesthetic field, is a founding member of Aesthetic Machine Supply based in La Lucia Durban, providing general practitioners and somatologists with quality equipment, support and education. andrea@beautymachines.co.za
online @ probeauty.co.za
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Business Trends
15
Insider Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled beauty salons and spas in South Africa to track business in November 2019.
Insider Spa
Spa business, particularly hotel spa business, proved brisk in November 2019, with the majority reporting an increase in business as compared to the same time in 2018. Reasons cited by various spas ranged from the following: big groups; repeat groups from the previous year; a different hotel guest type with more free time, the introduction of poolside treatments; treatment price increase; a better quality clientele that was open to add-ons and upgrading their services to signature services. We asked you if you offer alternative/ holistic therapies in your spa (.i.e. reflexology, acupuncture, reiki, crystal healing) and the majority said no. A few spas do offer reflexology, while others expressed an interest in offering reflexology and acupuncture. One or two spas were resolutely against such therapies, while one Johannesburg spa offers crystal bowl sound therapy and Flowerscape Therapy. As to whether you offer nutritional supplements for retail, most of you said no, the one or two who said yes, offer ingestible collagen.
Insider Salon
At last some positive news from salons, which struggled throughout 2019 – there was a slight upturn in business for most salons polled, particularly in the second part of November, with the approach of the holiday season. Treatment business was either slightly up on November 2018, or remained the same, for the most part. Retail business, unfortunately, remained slow, with only a few salons reporting an increase. As to whether you offer supplements in your retail, many offer collagen supplements. We asked you if you offered alternative/ holistic treatments (i.e. reflexology, acupuncture, reiki or crystal healing) and only one or two offer reflexology, with most of you not interested in alternative treatments in general. PB
The month in numbers
SALON 51
SPA 70 AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
%
%
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN NOVEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH NOVEMBER 2018?
79% 10% 11% BETTER
SAME
WORSE
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN NOVEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH NOVEMBER 2018?
65% BETTER
7% SAME
28% WORSE
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN NOVEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH NOVEMBER 2018?
53% 14% 33% BETTER
SAME
WORSE
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN NOVEMBER 2019 COMPARE WITH NOVEMBER 2018?
20% BETTER
5%
75% WORSE
SAME
online @ probeauty.co.za
Business Tips
16
beauty meets when
AI
LAUREN GIBSON examines how AI (Artificial Intelligence) is likely to impact the future workforce.
T
here is a lot of buzz at the moment about the Fourth Industrial Revolution and what humans will do if or when AI takes over
our jobs. For those of you who seem to think the Fourth Industrial Revolution is still coming, you may be disappointed. We are already there, with discussions around the Fifth Industrial Revelation underway. Think about your everyday life and the small things that you use technology for. We use and leverage these enhancements to make our lives faster and more effective. Topics such as 4-day work weeks, flexible work hours, video conference calls instead of meetings, working remotely, and selling products off Instagram are all things that companies are already doing. AI should not be seen as a negative subject. The advancement in technology is what allows us to grow and develop our industry and evolve our services to clients. If you think back to 10 years ago, we have made huge advancements since then in our sector. The internet has allowed us to market our business to consumers who wouldn’t usually know about us, and social media gives us the opportunity for targeted marketing. If you use those tools correctly, you can grow
online @ probeauty.co.za
your business alongside changes in technology and reap the benefits.
Agile and adaptable AI means agility and being able to adapt to the new aspects of tomorrow’s world. Our job titles may need to evolve with the addition of AI and technology, but it doesn’t mean we lose the human element. As an example, a receptionist may be replaced by an AI bot to answer the phones and greet people, but someone needs to programme the bot, reboot it and ensure the maintenance is done on a regular basis. For that you will need a human. Thus your receptionist title changes from receptionist to AI controller, or something similar. The human element is probably one of the most important factors that sets our industry apart from all the others. A machine or technology cannot compete with the element of human touch, transfer of energy and that feel good factor. And, in a world that is constantly evolving towards technology and ‘more’ connection, people seem to be feeling less connected and are craving human touch as a way to destress, re-calibrate and unwind. This is the therapist’s superpower to grow in this world of rapid change. I believe the secret is about finding the balance in both worlds. Ensure you leverage the power of your touch as a therapist and constantly evolve with the rapid changes in technology. Putting your head in the sand and refusing to blossom and evolve will mean you get left behind and this could be catastrophic for your
business, as it could mean loss of clients, less new clients and ultimately not being the first choice in salon or spa for consumers. PB
Lauren Gibson has been in the health and skincare industry for over 10 years as well as in the IT and fashion industry. She has worked for Dermalogica for the last seven years as an educator, brand consultant and currently the regional manager for the Western and Eastern Cape. laureng@dermalogica.co.za
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Case Study
19
wealth Creating a of
health
With a big emphasis on mind and spirit as well as body, Ciana Day Spa in Swakopmund, Namibia, designs holistic programme for its guests. JOANNA STERKOWICZ speaks to owner, MARION VON MALTZAHN, to find out more.
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arion Von Maltzahn’s vision for Ciana Day Spa was always to enhance the overall wellbeing of clients, through a variety of professional services that encourage the renewal of mind, body and spirit. Says Von Maltzahn, who is a trained gym instructor, life coach, beautician and masseuse: “Everyone is different and therefore has his or her own specific needs that must be fulfilled. The holistic programmes I create for guests totally depend on the individual. Some people love the pampering and relaxing side of spa services, so they will want a programme that includes a massage and aromatherapy facial, as well as a super relaxing pedicure. Other people do not enjoy the pampering so much but feel they need something for their mind. These are my life coach candidates. I believe life coaching is of benefit to everyone and it offers exceptional potential for personal growth. “For guests who enjoy both pampering and life coaching, we develop programmes that run over several months. For example, on week one we would do the body and spiritual side, while focusing on
the mind the following week. This is, I believe, one of the most optimal choices for personal health.” She notes that the premium option at Ciana is a four-week programme, commencing with body pampers (ie. scrubs, Coolsculping, full body massages) for the first week. Life coaching would follow on week two, with facials and manicure/pedicure on the third week. Physical development would be scheduled for week four. “So, this translates to one day at the spa each week, and for the rest of the time the client has to do his/ her own improvement for one hour a day at least. This has to either be a sports activity or life learning,” explains Von Maltzahn.
the move to Swakopmund. I decided to focus on two product ranges only and two special facial modalities – dermaplaning and microneedling – as I wanted my offering to be different from other beauty salons in Swakopmund. My product selection is on demand, rather than being stocked in the salon.”
Useful combo
Alternative markets
In its original incarnation, Ciana was situated in Windhoek, but is now found at the Sovereign Hair Salon in Swakopmund. This is located within The Entertainment Centre, owned by the Legacy Hotel, which uses Ciana as its spa facility on an informal basis. While the move has turned out very well for Ciana, it required a complete re-adjustment of the business model. Von Maltzahn continues: “It was quite hard for me personally as the original Ciana was literally my dream day spa. But it wasn’t economically viable, hence
Because Swakopmund is a coastal holiday town that is full of pensioners, Von Maltzahn will often transport her pensioner guests to the salon for treatments. “I also am thinking of creating an initiative called HEAL, where we would go to go the hospitals and perform treatments on patients who have been there for a long time. “Another project that I’m considering is to present life coaching at schools for Grades 11 and 12, mainly in connection with their tertiary learning,” concludes Von Maltzahn. PB online @ probeauty.co.za
Business Tips
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face up to conflict Many salon owners avoid dealing with employee underperformance or bad attitude, but facing the challenge is essential for the success of the business and the team, writes HELLEN WARD.
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here’s a wonderful quote from the late French philosopher, Jean-Paul Sartre: ‘Only the guy who isn’t rowing has time to rock the boat’. Doesn’t that resonate with the busy salon manager who has a difficult employee disrupting their team? But just because you might have one bad apple, it doesn’t mean you have to give up on the whole tree. Unless, of course, the issue is starting to affect the rest of the team. If so, you need to deal with it, and pronto. When I meet salon and spa owners and managers in my teaching capacity, it amazes me just how many bosses are utterly terrified of conducting disciplinary procedures. They go to any lngths to avoid it, sometimes hoping the person will leave rather than facing up to the fact that the correct course of action is to alert the employee to their concerns, using proper procedures. Scared sick of getting it wrong and ending up at a tribunal, they often tell me that they let things go under the radar for fear of having to confrong them, which is no
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good for the employer or the staff members. Hope is never a strategy and anything that might spoil the team equilibrium is never good in a service industry.
Means test One of my mentors, Pamela Goff, who headed up L’Oréal’s UK education for many years, had a performance analysis flow chart that I use. At the very top of the flow chart, there are two questions: 1. Is it important and do they know? 2. Could they do it if their life depended on it? If the answer to the first question is yes, but they don’t know, you must tell them (verbally, in writing or both). Nobody can deliver what’s expected of them if they don’t know what it is, so it’s your responsibility to ensure people have proper job descriptions and detailed information, listing their performance requirements. The second question is where it gets interesting. If no, they couldn’t do it if their life depended on it, then it takes you down the ‘training and education’ part of the flow chart.
However, if the answer is yes, you end up firmly on the ‘attitude’ side of the chart. This is far trickier but the crux of the chart arrives at another crucial question – ‘is performance rewarding?’ If it isn’t, you must make it rewarding. However, the stickier question is – ‘is non-performance rewarding?’ If so, remove the reward and make it punishing. This is often an argument I use for instigating a performane-related pay, bonus or incentive system. Why should anybody be motivated to perform if their package is the same as somebody who doesn’t bother to go the extra mile? Nobody needs to put up with an employee who is underperforming or casing issues for other staff. However, any employer has a duty of care to ensure they handle things in the proper manner. But their duty also means they can’t avoid the issue, otherwise everybody will suffer. PB
Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk
21 Interview
Talking to‌ Val Carstens PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY talks to Val Carstens, group chairman and CEO of Environ Skin Care, to discover why this South Africanfounded and developed brand has endured and thrived over the 29 years of its existence. You built Environ Skin Care, which was founded by your brother, the renowned plastic surgeon and visionary, Dr Des Fernandes, from a dream to the success that it is today. What are three key qualities or practices that you think have made Environ such a successful global brand in the industry today? A result driven, scientifically proven product range containing vitamin A, antioxidants and peptides in effective dosage to honour our commitment to a beautiful skin for a lifetime. We exist to keep skin beautiful.
What are some of the challenges overcome that have shaped the brand to what it is today? In the beginning it was quite challenging to learn and meet all the regulations needed to export Environ to many countries, as there were no cosmetic companies in South Africa doing research, development
The year 1998 will always be a phenomenal year in my life as we were nominated the SME Exporter of the Year by the Chamber of Commerce and awarded the Marie Claire Prix D’Excellence for our just launched C-Quence Range. and manufacturing, as well as exporting to countries like Japan, US, UK and Europe. The fact that we have so many actives in our products made formulating challenging, as was the registration of the product in the many countries. We did not have the capital to
brand our product so relied heavily on word of mouth to consumers. Eventually, I realised that we needed to start the journey of branding the product and employed a marketing manager who gave of her best with the little cash available at the time. Today I am proud to say that we have a complete brand and marketing team delivering the message to market and ensuring we keep contemporary and exciting, but always delivering the science and results we aim to achieve with each and every product developed.
Name one personal proud moment working with the Environ Brand. To take a business from nothing to where it is today has always been a very proud achievement for me, personally. It has also been a very rewarding journey with a team who have remained committed to the company. The year 1998 will always be a phenomenal year in my life as we were nominated the SME > online @ probeauty.co.za
Interview
22 Exporter of the Year by the Chamber of Commerce and awarded the Marie Claire Prix D’Excellence for our just launched C-Quence Range.
Which are your three favourite Environ products and why? A difficult question to answer as I have more than three for specific reasons. Derma-Lac Lotion and Vitamin A C and E Oil because they just make skin so soft and beautiful. I apply these to my whole body. The Hydrating Oil Capsules are an absolute must as they provide instant gratification to the skin. My skin absolutely loves the C-Quence Range; this is the Rolls Royce of our products. I use Alpha Day Lotion, a sunscreen product which, when applied under make-up, gives the skin a glow that is indescribably beautiful. Then there is the Revival Masque for when I want that little lift and to look my best.
What are some notable Environ ‘firsts’? Environ was one of the first to come out with a product containing vitamin A and antioxidants in a cosmetic. Our sunscreen, RAD, was also the first
Environ was one of the first to come out with a product containing vitamin A and antioxidants in a cosmetic. Our sunscreen, RAD, was also the first product to contain betacarotene, antioxidants and sunscreens all in one. RAD remains a very popular sunscreen throughout the world today. product to contain beta-carotene, antioxidants and sunscreens all in one. RAD remains a very popular sunscreen throughout the world today.
In 2019 Environ once again scooped top place at the Aesthetics Everything Awards. Please comment. Aesthetic Everything is the largest network of aesthetic and beauty professionals in the world and the awards are based on votes from over 200,000 aesthetic industry subscribers – recognising hardworking professionals and companies within the aesthetic industry.
What has led to Environ’s exceptional loyalty and track record with skin care professionals over the last 30 years? I believe therapists love Environ because our products deliver results, making a lasting difference to people’s lives. This is key to the Environ philosophy. Our unique DF machine delivering iontophoresis and sonophoresis through a probe, combined with our powerful product formulations result in beautiful,
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healthy-looking skin. Environ offers a complete skin care range and the vitamin step-up-system that is unique to our brand, allowing the therapist to further improve the health of the skin.
Environ has some exciting new developments in the professional skin care space – tell us about these. The unique DF and Cool Peel treatments have not changed, we did however recognise that our therapists needed an expanded Environ Facial protocol to effectively treat all skin concerns. Our team has also developed new, shorter and more intense ‘FOCUS-ON’ treatment solutions to answer the time-pressured needs of today’s busy consumers. This is supported by new education to build our therapists knowledge, ultimately making them more confident. Key to starting your skincare journey with Environ is the skin analysis that is offered by our professional therapists, identifying your unique skin needs and then recommending the ideal homecare, combined with professional facials to optimise results.
Environ has been around for 29 years – what keeps the brand relevant and sought after amongst consumers and therapists? Our philosophy, products and technology are built on science and proven results. But continuous innovation, research and development drives us forward as a thought leader in professional skin care. Being acknowledged both internationally and locally by winning both local and international awards are a testament to the brand’s innovation. Led by a brother and sister duo, combined with a formidable team, Environ truly understands skin, and what it takes to create healthy skin. PB
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Gala
Dinner
Spa Focus
24
future
watch MARISA DIMITRIADIS unpacks 10 trends that are likely to prevail in the spa sector during 2020.
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ith an everevolving spa industry combined with an unpredictable economy, trying to forecast trends for 2020 is almost an impossible task. Last year proved to be a most unexpected one for South Africa spa industry, and what is happening internationally is definitely not what is hitting the spot locally. Therefore, I have based my 2020 trend predictions on the thousands of hours of coaching I’ve conducted and the discussions that I’ve had with various players in our industry, ranging from therapists to investors, owners, hotel general managers, spa managers and of course, very importantly, consumers. I have listened and coached for hours on end to try and find solutions to what was a whirlwind of a business year in the beauty industry. Here is my prediction of the strongest trends to look out for: individuality; aroma psychology; virtual reality; air quality awareness; hero ingredients (i.e. CBD, ashwagandha, mushrooms and berries); better results, no downtime and show me the proof; sustainable, recyclable and environmentally friendly initiatives; package deals; online shopping delivery to door; and specialisation.
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Find your niche and work it. Don’t offer all treatments and services as you cannot be all things to everyone. Individuality The ‘one size fits all’ approach is gone, personalisation and solutionist offerings are what the consumer wants. Therefore, the more you make the client feel like an individual with their own needs that will be looked after and show them that you have a solution and plan specifically for them, the more they will spend with you and return. Everything you do must revolve around each individual client’s needs and how you can help them find solutions. For example, if you are offering memberships, completely
tailor-make them to each client, taking into account their individual needs and don’t offer the standard. You need to become a private banker to your clients if you want the loyalty and spend.
25 This trend is the most powerful of all as the sense of smell has the ability to create an everlasting memory. Smell has the ability to make you fall in love or absolutely hate something – it’s that powerful. Aroma psychology can be defined as applying aromas for a desired outcome. For example, a specific car dealership brand in South Africa has a particular scent that is found in their showroom, which makes the potential buyer feel important, wealthy and like royalty. These are all feelings you want to evoke when trying to sell a car. Aroma profiling in your spas and with your product offering is critical. Having a specific scent for your spa brand is also critical, as it has the power to evoke feelings in the client they may have never felt before.
Virtual reality (VR) The power of including VR into your treatment offering or package deals is so important as it has the ability to induce a state of mind in the client that will enhance your treatments, once again creating loyalty.
Spa Focus
Aroma psychology
for as a service in itself. Since the South African spa goer is not familiar with the power of VR yet, I would recommend that you include it in a package, offering to expose the consumer to how much more benefit their spa visit can be because of the VR experience. This is not a hugely costly investment but will give the client the results and individuality they are looking for.
Hero Ingredients So, mushrooms were the hit in 2018, with CBD (cannabidiol) booming last year and set to continue booming for 2020, with spas getting more creative by even offering weed infused drinks and food on the spa cuisine menu.
Air quality awareness This is a trend that started in 2019 but has fast been getting more and more attention. So, what are you doing about it? Spas can jump on this initiative by starting with the type of plants they choose to have in their spas. There is a large range of air purifying plants available and always ensure you mention to clients something about the benefits of these plants rather than just putting them on display to look pretty. Any equipment that enhances the quality of air is a good buy as this is a real treatment enhancer without an extra charge. Watch out though, as a growing trend overseas is to offer treatments in a purified air pod at a surcharge, due to the quality of air the treatment is performed in.
Turmeric, matcha, ashwagandha and berries are on the skin and body ingredient trend radar, so look out for these and find ways to include them into your spa treatment offering as part of your individuality offering, once again giving each client what they specifically need or want. >
VR in the spa does not have to a free enhancer, but like any VR device, whether in gaming or for therapeutic reasons, is charged
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Spa Focus
26
Better results, no downtime and show me the proof If you do not have a portfolio of case studies with before & after pictures showing results of what your treatments offer, then you can forget the repeat business. Consumers want to physically see the results you can offer. Partner with a brand that is committed to continually updating their case studies and can support you with this. Facials for relaxation are a thing of the past. Well of course the client wants to relax but she wants to physically see what she is spending her money on, so ensure you are able to show her. A treatment menu with pictures that are real has far more value than any words. Even body treatments such as massage are now needing to offer a value add for them to be regularly booked. So, if you can add a 10-minute virtual reality destress with the last few minutes of a body massage, then you are on trend.
Sustainable, recyclable and environmentally friendly initiatives Today’s clients need a humanitarian reason to be loyal to a brand. So, if you want the loyal clients, get involved and partner with brands that run initiatives to recycle, to be environmentally friendly and become greener. Start by looking at the dustbins in your spa space. Is there a recycling bin? Is there any form of sustainable signage that shows any of initiatives that you follow? This could, for example, be something as simple as the washing powder or liquid you use to wash your linen, or how you encourage recycling by offering clients a few rands back when they return the box or empty tube of product.
Package deals If you can find a way to have a permanent Black Friday on a few selected treatments that pair well together and promote retail sales, well then you are on trend.
In South Africa, I’m sure you have noticed that the grocery stores offer specials on a regular basis. For instance, buy three units of an item for a reduced amount and then the store rotates this offer around 20 or 30 items. Speak to the store managers and they will tell you that these deals are their best sellers and revenue drivers. Learn from where these strategies are working and implement them today. This is a buying trend that is being missed by the beauty industry.
Online shopping This is still tiny in South Africa but on the rise, with consumers sometimes needing skin or body product top ups and not wanting to go instore to buy them. Partner with brands that will allow you to use their e-commerce sites, but where your business is not left out of the deal. The purchase then happens through your specific salon through their e-commerce site and is delivered to your client’s door direct from the supplier warehouse. Watch this trend get huge legs! Be careful though not to send your clients to online stores selling the brands you stock, but where your business makes no money from that sale.
Specialisation Find your niche and work it. Don’t offer all treatments and services as you cannot be all things to everyone. Or, if you can offer a huge variety of treatments, ensure then that you have specialist therapists doing those treatments as some therapists are stronger in certain treatments. Take the strengths and build on them. Becoming more specialised is a trend to watch as it is much more profitable and less costly to run. PB Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder of The Spa Consultants, an award-winning and leading spa development consultancy business. marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za
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Spa Focus
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Pushing the boundaries of spa treatments Set below the consultation rooms of the Medi-Sculpt aesthetic centre and next door to a day hospital specialising in plastic surgery, the newly opened VivAri Spa in Mogale City is where medicine meets wellness, writes JOANNA STERKOWICZ.
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ocated amongst giant poplars in one of the most restful and tranquil properties in Mogale City (West Rand, Gauteng), VivAri Spa combines all the pillars of wellness and new age technology. It boasts numerous facilities, including a dry bar, gym, juice bar, infrared cabin (for relaxation, recovery and treatment of injury), a starlit steam room, an ice fountain and a vitality pool, as well as a relaxation area and refreshment station. There are eight treatment rooms, four of which have their own private gardens. In addition, there is a magnificent manicure and pedicure lounge. VivAri is equipped with state of the art medical equipment, such as a Visia machine for expert consultation and prescription of treatments and home care; a HydraFacial machine, a Dermapen for micro needling, and the VelaShape II for body contouring. The spa is owned by two local doctors who share a strong focus on female black empowerment. It is managed by Alecia van Graan, who heads up three therapists, one nail technician and a front desk assistant. Says Van Graan: “Our mission is to enhance the inner and outer well-being of our guests through excellent professional, prescriptive
and tailored treatments.” The name, VivAri, has Sanskrit origins, meaning ‘intuition’ and ‘integrity’. It is also the combination of the names of one of the owner’s sons, namely Aryan and Vihar.
Our mission is to enhance the inner and outer well-being of our guests through excellent professional, prescriptive and tailored treatments. Support Philippa Abbott of Spa Sense, who has consulted on the VivAri project for over a year, notes that the spa was conceived to support the Medi-Sculpt aesthetic centre and Dr Anushka Reddy’s practice. “We need to be able to offer pre- and post op care, as well as the more advanced aesthetic treatments. As VivAri aims to be a cut above the rest, we offer treatments with the best and quickest results.” Some guests of the spa are patients who have been treated at the adjacent day hospital.
Ice An unusual feature of the spa is the ice fountain. This is an ice waterfall that provides a pleasant cooling experience following a session in the sauna or steam bath. The guest can take advantage of ice, produced by a generator and collected in a glass basin. Music is a big focus in the spa, and is contemporary in style with a ‘Café del Mar’ feeing. The massive playlist is constantly updated so as to keep current.
Copper One of the spa’s massages on offer involves the use of copper cups. Abbott explains: “These copper cups become one with the therapist’s hands. They heat up instantly and provide a deep pressure and ability to target trigger points. Copper has healing properties, is antibacterial and anticorrosive, so will last forever.” PB
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Mesotherapy
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mesotherapy The ins and outs of
We asked DR MARISA HEYNS to give the low-down on mesotherapy, its specific applications as opposed to micro-needling, and who should be performing it. Please define the term mesotherapy. Mesotherapy is a procedure involving multiple superficial injections of active ingredients into the dermal layer of the skin. Aesthetic mesotherapy focuses on the introduction of actives such as vitamins, minerals, growth factors, hyaluronic acid, amino acids etc. that play a role in regenerating and rejuvenating the skin. The objective is to nourish, hydrate and stimulate the dermis to upregulate its own regenerative processes, as opposed to breaking the skin down in order for it to renew itself.
Who first conceived of mesotherapy and when? The term mesotherapy was coined in 1952 by a French medical physician, Dr Michel Pistor, who found that injecting small amounts of pharmaceutical actives into the dermal layer of the skin could lead to the symptomatic relief of various medical conditions, such as pain and vascular disorders.
How does mesotherapy differ from micro-needling in terms of its function and effect on the skin? Mesotherapy focuses on the principle of introducing active ingredients into the skin that can activate a regenerative process within the skin, without the need to damage or activate a wounding cascade to initiate online @ probeauty.co.za
When one is actively breaking down the skin barrier using micro-needling, laser or radiofrequency treatments, one has to use mesotherapy to help rebuild and promote healthy skin regeneration. inflammation and skin renewal. Micro-needling involves a form of mechanical damage (superficial or deep) to the skin, with or without the use of active ingredients to initiate a cascade of inflammation, wound healing and skin remodeling.
In what instances would you suggest a patient have mesotherapy as opposed to micro-needling? As mentioned, mesotherapy is a truly nutritive treatment, meaning its aim is to feed the skin with ingredients to boost its structure, moisture and elasticity and inevitably improving its function. I would suggest the use of mesotherapy as a build-up treatment in skin where there is a lack of hydration and nourishment. Ideally, any ‘break-down’ treatment whether it is a chemical peel, microneedling, laser or radiofrequency, should be preceded or followed by a mesotherapy session. This will allow for optimal skin treatment results.
Are there any skincare applications for mesotherapy other than anti-ageing? Absolutely! Mesotherapy can be used as part of hair loss treatments, hyperpigmentation disorders, scar and stretch mark treatments, and even for the treatment of cellulite, excess fat, and fluid retention
What qualifications are necessary to perform a mesotherapy treatment? In South Africa, at the moment, according to the Health Professions Council – mesotherapy can only be performed by medical professionals, as it involves the injection of substances into and organ of the body (i.e the skin).
What is transdermal mesotherapy? Transdermal refers to passing active ingredients deep into the epidermis without the use of needles. This can be achieved by iontophoresis (using the positive and negative charges on molecules to transfuse ingredients into the skin, or sonophoresis (using ultrasound) to move actives into the skin.
Mesotherapy
29 Can mesotherapy be used in combination with other treatments? In my opinion, it is a must. When one is actively breaking down the skin barrier using micro-needling, laser or radiofrequency treatments, one has to use mesotherapy to help rebuild and promote healthy skin regeneration.
Are there any instances where one would choose a syringe as opposed to an injector gun, or are they much of a muchness? Personally, I prefer using a syringe as I can precisely control the depth of the needle insertion, especially over delicate areas like the periorbital regions, to avoid excessive pain and bruising. Some practitioners prefer mesoguns purely because it takes less time to perform a treatment.
What sort of mesotherapy cocktails are there in terms of ingredients, specifically for an anti-ageing application? There are a variety of active ingredients that are safe and effective in treating ageing skin. One has to ask: ‘What does this skin need to look and feel younger?’ To improve structure and collagen production, one may need organic silicone or peptides. To hydrate and plump, we need hyaluronic acid, or to brighten and protect, we might need antioxidants such as Vitamin C. Always stick to using an active ingredient in its most sterile and purest form.
For anti-ageing mesotherapy, how many treatments would you prescribe, and at what intervals? Ageing unfortunately does not happen overnight! It generally takes the skin three months (just like any other soft tissue structure) to repair itself and show its results. So, I generally recommend three to five sessions, spaced two to four weeks apart.
Do you use a numbing cream prior to a mesotherapy treatment? Generally, I do not, unless my client requests it. The aim with mesotherapy is to remain superficial. If one goes too deep, the chances of bleeding and bruising increases. So if a client is suddenly experiencing worsening discomfort, then I know I need to work more superficially.
What is the downtime with a mesotherapy treatment, particularly if you have sensitive skin? It is considerably less compared to micro-needling. The skin can look a bit red and blotchy for a day (at most two days) and, depending on the injection techniques, one can sometimes have a few spot bruises or bumps that will settle within two to three days. Mesotherapy is especially good for sensitive skin with an impaired barrier that will, under normal circumstances, not tolerate a chemical peel or micro-needling. The important thing is to choose the correct active ingredient to manage the current skin concern.
What are the contra-indications for mesotherapy? The main contraindications include active skin disease
(active eczema, acne, psoriasis) or skin infections. I generally stay away from treating clients with auto-immiune disease unless the condition is very well managed, just because the skin can react unpredictably.
If someone is on a mild blood thinner like Ecotrin, is mesotherapy contra-indicated? Generally speaking, if you are on a blood thinner or platelet inhibitor such as aspirin, your chances of bleeding and bruising is much higher. This is not necessarily a contra-indication, but you will have to warn your client that he or she may high have a high risk for bruising, and that traditional mesotherapy might not be the best option for them. PB Dr Marisa Heyns is a general practitioner who specialises in aesthetic medicine. She obtained her medical degree (MBChB) at the University of Cape Town in 2007, and is one of a handful of doctors in South Africa with a European Masters Degree in Aesthetic Medicine and Therapeutics (UNICAM, Italy). Her scope of practice extends from minimally invasive procedures (botulinum toxin and hyaluronic acid based fillers), to more invasive procedures (Co2 laser, fractional radiofrequency treatments and threads). She also performs mesotherapy (skin boosters) and PRP treatments (Growth factor glow, and O shot). drheyns@dermafrica.com
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Micro-needling
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Collagen induction therapy
unpacked
A
In this article, SONETTE DONKER of Skin iD, outlines the history, applications and benefits of micro-needling.
lso called microneedling or dermal needling, collagen induction therapy involves the use of tiny needles to make small channels/ holes in the skin, causing injury which leads to the stimulation of fibroblast making collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. This process leads to the rejuvenation of the skin.
History 1950s: Micro-needling is first described by the founder of mesotherapy, Dr Michel Pistor, who didn’t employ the method himself but came up with the concept that pricking skin would promote collagen formation. (Pistor, M. Presse Med. 1958 Jun 4;66(44):999-1000).
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1995: Subcision, a new method of subcuticular mining for the treatment of depressed cutaneous scars and wrinkles, is introduced. Mechanism of action is two-fold: releasing action of the procedure; and new connective tissue via the wound-healing response. (Orentreich DS, Orentreich N. Dermatol Surg. 1995;21:6543–9). 1997: Needle dermabrasion using a ‘tattoo pistol’ to treat scars. Intended to remove the tension and tightness in the skin caused by scarring. Patients receiving skin-coloured tattoos over facial scars saw evidence of pigmentation after one to two years even though the tattoo pigment was long gone. Scars were immensely improved in
texture, appearance and colour. Not feasible due to time and labour intensive nature of using just one needle to treat scars. (Camirand A, Doucet J. Needle dermabrasion. Aesthet Plast Surg. 1997;21:48–51). 1998: Dr Des Fernandes of South Africa presented his findings on needling at a conference in San Francisco. He introduced a needling device, a small needle stamp, to induce collagen and used as a regular treatment in his surgical practice. (Fernandes D., Minimally invasive percutaneous collagen induction. Oral Maxillofac Surg Clin North Am. 2006;17:51–63) 2000: Horst Liebl, inventor of the original German Dermaroller, designed the very first
microneedling medical device. It consisted of many fine needles on a drum-shaped roller device, with the ability to treat larger areas of the skin easily and quickly. 2004: Clinical Resolution Laboratory, a California company, redesigned the device, called MTS Roller.
Effect on skin So, what actually happens in the skin during and after a microneedling session? Phase 1 Injury done to the skin leading to inflammation. When there is inflammation in the skin, neurotrophils and macrophages are released. These secrete antibacterial chemicals. It is vital for the removal of foreign particles and necrotic debris in the skin, which initiates angiogenesis and the granulation process. Phase 2 Tissue proliferation: Fibroblasts proliferate in the wound and release glycoproteins, growth factors and collagen. Epidermal cells migrate from edge of wound. Granulation tissue is formed. Continued capillary formation. Continued fibroblast proliferation. Phase 3 Tissue remodelling. Fibroblasts replace collagen 3 with collagen 1. Contraction of the wound for increased tissue integrity. Due to the these three phases that take place, it is suggested to only needle every four weeks if you work 1mm and deeper on the skin. If you work 0,25mm or 0,5mm in the skin, then you can needle every two weeks.
If you just see erythema on the skin, then you are only working in the epidermis and this is the best depth for treating pigmentation. If, however, you see pin prick bleeding, then you know you are in the dermis. Dermal penetration is needed for treatment of acne scars and wrinkles.
Tools Micro-needling can be performed with either a pen device or a roller device. The pen has a vertical insertion method, while the roller has a sloped/ curved insertion method.
Who can perform micro-needling? Doctors or aesthetic therapists working with doctors can go deeper than 1mm in the skin. Skin therapists not working with a doctor can only go as deep as 1mm.
Indications • Skin rejuvenation (tightens and firms) • Reduce wrinkles and fine lines • Acne scarring • Stretch marks • Scars • Epidermal pigment • Burn wounds
Contra Indications • Active acne (USA dermatologists needle active acne) • Rosacea (often get good results if needling 0,5 mm) • Raised surface areas (swelling or inflammation) • Actinic Keratosis • Eczema • Skin Cancer
• Sebaceous Hyperplasia • Keloid scarring
Client benefits • More affordable than laser or IPL treatments • Less discomfort • Minimal downtime if any (The client looks and feels sunburnt for a day or two.) Quick treatment • Excellent results The client may not go out in the sun for at least 10 days and should wear sun protection at all times. It is advisable to give the client post needling products that will also soothe and start the healing process.
Benefits to offering micro-needling in your clinic Minimal investment Multi-application procedures Little disposable cost Quick treatment (30 to 60 minutes only) Good profit Before doing a treatment on a client it is vital to do a thorough skin analysis and health history, i.e. to determine if the client is prone to fever blisters, or has diabetes or any autoimmune disorders etc. PB
Sonette Donker is a qualified professional skincare therapist with 20 years of experience, having worked for Dermalogica, Nimue Skin International, Skin Rejuvenation Technologies and pHformula. She has travelled the world presenting at congresses, press events and medical conferences. At her clinic, Skin iD, Donker specialises in the treatment of acne, hyperpigmentation and the visible signs of ageing. sonette@skinid.co.za
Number of treatments Application
Treatments
Intervals
Needle Depth
Speed
Fine skin: wrinkles
4-6
7-14 days
0.4 - 1.0
2-3
Normal/ oily: wrinkles
6-8
10-14 days
0.2 - 1.25
2-3
Acne scars
6-8
14-30 days
0.6 - 1.50
2-3
Stomach
6-8
14-30 days
0.8 - 2.00
3
Arms
6-8
14-30 days
0.8 - 1.50
3
Thighs
6-8
14-30 days
0.8 - 1.50
3
Décolleté
4-8
10-21 days
0.50 - 1.00
3
online @ probeauty.co.za
Micro-needling
31
Micro-needling Devices
32
point to the
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY looks at some of the top micro-needling devices on the market.
Golden touch
The Environ Cosmetic Gold Roll CIT is specially crafted for use on areas that demand extra special care, such as the delicate skin around your eyes, nose and mouth. Using the device will enhance the effectiveness of ingredients in topical Environ products and tighten skin, reduce uneven skin tone and texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and scars.
011 262 0264
Five speeds The SIX Aesthetix Collagen Pen is a cordless unit with two rechargeable batteries, that each carry eight hours of treatment time. This user-friendly device has four different pin cartridge heads to tailor make the treatment for the client. It has five speeds offering up to 15,000 RPM (revolutions per minute), making for a more intense treatment with less pain.
Microscopic channels DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care supplies microneedling rollers for both in-clinic and at-home use, as well as microneedling cartridges for use alongside microneedling pen devices. This includes the nano needleless cartridge, targeting the epidermis to create microscopic channels, allowing for improved infusion of actives into the skin.
086 128 2323
16 needles
Sknlogic’s Sknpen is an advanced medical grade automated fractional microneedling device offering a powerful German motor and adjustable needle length. It is safe for most skin types and is used to treat conditions like acne scarring, fine lines and wrinkles, sagging skin, uneven skin texture, enlarged pores, and pigment marks from sun damage or acne.
The Dermapen 4’s revolutionary 16 needle cartridge design creates more rejuvenating channels and increased results. Smooth efficacy glides over the skin for optimum patient comfort. The device includes ACM™ (AntiContamination Management) for unrivalled safety and protection. Dermapen 4 features superior AOVN™ Technology for increased speed.
021 552 6999
011 545 9300
011 312 7840
German motor
online @ probeauty.co.za
Award Winning Hair Salon??? PROVE IT Business Awards Categories
Artistic Team of the Year Salon Design of the Year Marketing Campaign of the Year Manager of the Year
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to enter the awards & for more information
Q&A
34
Talking to...
Michael Dobie JOANNA STERKOWICZ speaks to MICHAEL DOBIE, Country Manager Beauty Care Professional at Henkel South Africa, about the Schwarzkopf Professional brand and its sponsoring of the inaugural SALON INTERNATIONAL HAIR AWARDS on 16 March 2020. Why did you decide to align the Schwarzkopf Professional brand with the Salon International Hair Awards? I happened to visit some salons in London right after an industry awards evening last year and found the conversation to be inspiring, as it was consumed by who won which awards. This created an amazing buzz throughout the industry. There was this overwhelming atmosphere of pride and passion within the hair industry following the awards. Shortly thereafter, I met with Phil Woods from Salon International and he mentioned that they were planning an inaugural awards event right here in South Africa. It was then that I knew that this was our chance to bring that pride and passion to our home country.
Does Schwarzkopf Professional, as a global brand, have a culture of sponsoring hair awards? At Schwarzkopf Professional we base everything we do on what we call our Customer Centric Business Model. Inspiration and support are two of the pillars and industry awards align perfectly with these pillars. Schwarzkopf Professional UK & Ireland sponsor their own respective Salon International Hair Awards.
Why do you think awards are important for the hair industry? I believe that a lot of blood, sweat and tears go into our industry each day. Not enough is done to recognise the hard work that goes into making this industry as special as it is. Our industry needs to be celebrated and hair awards are the perfect way to heed the call.
What would you say is the DNA of the Schwarzkopf Professional brand? Schwarzkopf Professional’s mantra is: ‘Together. A Passion For Hair’. We are always reinventing hair. This is our mission. Every day, everywhere. We do it together. With a true passion for hair. With innovation deeply rooted in our DNA, we have continued to reinvent hair over the past 120 years. As such we hold over 7,600 patents – each one a true milestone in haircare. The company is now one of the top three professional hair care brands in the world, with a hairdresser community that stretches around the globe. Creating professional partnerships is at the core of what we do, it’s our philosophy and our point of difference. We co-create with the
hairdresser, for the hairdresser, to bring the latest products and relevant services to the market before anyone else, truly putting the customer at the heart of our business.
In terms of products and technologies, what have been the most exciting recent Schwarzkopf Professional developments? Most recently it would be the launch of our Fibreclinix system. This new breakthrough haircare treatment transforms the hair fibre back to its perfect, healthy virgin properties. The salon exclusive customised service instantly improves hair quality, providing 10x stronger hair (vs untreated hair), complete sealing of hair porosity and up to 60 days of inner and outer hair restoration, when used with the corresponding BC Home Care Shampoo.
What can the industry look forward to from Schwarzkopf Professional in 2020? Each year we launch the Essential Looks Collections.
esse looksntial
TREND
PRODUC
e Active
T NEW
tbh - tru S e honest beautiful HAIR
online @ probeauty.co.za
REPORT
Feminin ESSAY
Bad hai r day S.O .S.
TREND
MAGAZINE 2019 /
01
Inspiration is a big part of what hairdressers do every day. Essential Looks celebrates hairdressers’ passion for hair, for fashion and for the future, as well as encompasses it into The Magazine – the ultimate trend collection magazine. It provides hairdressers with everything they need to enhance their creativity, maximise their skills and achieve salon success. Besides our all-inspiring Essential Looks Collections, we co-create with the hairdresser, in order for them to bring the latest products and relevant services to the market before anyone else, truly putting the customer at the heart of our business.
Schwarzkopf Professional launched its international Shaping Futures Initiative in 2010. To date, how many previously disadvantaged people in South Africa have benefited from this training initiative? We have been running the Shaping Futures programme in South Africa since 2013 and have trained 300 students to date.
Can you reveal anything about the Shaping Futures 2020 programme? The programme has traditionally only been run in Johannesburg. It might be time to take it on the road. We will have to see.
How is Schwarzkopf Professional positioned within the Henkel Group in terms of your other hair brands? Schwarzkopf Professional is our premium hair brand and is a full-service brand. Indola focuses more on the smaller salons and the solo stylists in the industry, with a portfolio to match their needs. Our newly launched Authentic Beauty Concept is a holistic premium brand co-created with a unique hairdresser collective to start a new path to authentic beauty.
How has take-up of the Authentic Beauty Concept brand been? What a beautiful brand! Authentic Beauty Concept was inspired by artisans and hairdressers who share the same values. It is a new
path to authenticity, something that is so important in our industry. Our pure ingredients from carefully selected origins are loved by our hairdressing community. I highly recommend joining the #AuthenticBeautyMovement.
You recently re-launched the Ladine brand. Please elaborate on the reasons for doing so and how this development will be of benefit to the Afro hair market. Henkel Beauty Care believes in continuous innovation, so we are always looking at how we can improve, while keeping our customer at the heart of everything we do. Our Ladine brand has been loved by South Africans for over three decades – it’s an industry icon in the market. We are so proud of the upgraded packaging and formulations and believe that it will continue to be an industry icon, being the go-to brand for anyone who wants to give their hair the best care. PB
Do the Shaping Futures team help to ensure that their graduates are assimilated into the industry? We assist graduates with placements in salons. The graduates are in high demand with most being placed before the completion of the programme.
Does Shaping Futures grow each year in South Africa in terms of scope and the number of participants? We usually run two sessions per year, training 30 students in each session. Shaping Futures is fortunate that we have volunteers from either Belgium or Netherlands coming to South Africa for a week during each programme to assist the local team.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Q&A
35
Salon Focus
36
Man-cave with a difference
I
Little over a year old, Medellin Gentlemen Groomers – The Barber Cartel, does not resemble a traditional barbershop in look, feel or concept. NATASHA CHISESE and JOANNA STERKOWICZ infiltrate the cartel to get the details.
t was while watching the TV series, ‘Narcos’, about the notorious Colombian drug lord, Pablo Escobar, that Marlon Naidoo began thinking about the potential of creating a version of a ‘cartel’ for his barbershop in Johannesburg. Says Naidoo: “It was not my intention to sensationalise the ‘drug cartel’ and its activities but rather to associate it to a mancave set up, where men and boys would feel comfortable. Where they would be willing (and find it cool) to have their grooming done. So, with the ultimate goal being to attract and win over a loyal following of customers, the concept of The Barber Cartel was born. We then sat down and threw around ideas on how we could carry this through in the decor, set up, service offering and experience.”
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For centuries, most teenage boys and men had the view that a male has to look like he is dangerous, or capable of danger, to seem cool to other men. Masculinity was built around power, strength and roughness. He points out that Medellin is the name of the Colombian city that was associated with Escobar’s cartel. “Most people know about this association but our focus is on men being their better self and encouraging others to do the same by becoming part of The Barber Cartel.”
Décor and style Some 70 square meters in size and currently employing seven barbers, Medellin is situated in Pineslopes, Fourways. This area was selected primarily for its high volume of traffic. To create the ‘Narcos’ theme, attention to detail was key and every design element had to work seamlessly together. Medellin’s layout ensured that there is ample space for products, barber chairs, a waiting area and a stockroom. The colour scheme is a mix of matte black, grey and white. Tiling and work stations follow the colour theme, with a black and white chequered pattern. Glazed concrete sheeting was used on the floors, and at the heart of the room you will find the Medellin logo. All the furniture is vintage, with the highlight being a custom made table featuring the Medellin logo. Floating shelves are used to display products, with matte black piping enhancing the vintage rustic look. The walls are primarily black with grey strokes. A wallpaper illusion of an exposed brick wall is used with typography murals featuring information on Pablo Escobar. This information is not to be taken as idolising Escobar, but to create a system that motivates men to take selfies, known as mugshots in the barbershop. Subtle lighting brings the cartel theme together by complementing natural light with warm lighting. And, just when you thought the barbershop could not possibly offer more, the reception desk serves complimentary drinks and triples up as a perfume bar for the man on the go. According to Naidoo, the interior design goal was to create a barbershop that is family friendly, encouraging a ritual for families going to the barbershop.
Salon Spa Focus
37 Mugshots In this selfie-obsessed world, Medellin clients are encouraged to have mugshots taken instead. “For centuries, most teenage boys and men had the view that a male has to look like he is dangerous, or capable of danger, to seem cool to other men. Masculinity was built around power, strength and roughness. As such, selfies were not very common and mostly seen to be feminine. “Our mugshot wall seemed like an interesting idea to encourage men and boys to take their pictures without feeling awkward. Not to sensationalise getting arrested but rather to provide the positive alternative, whereby males don’t feel that they need to do bad to get a mugshot taken. Our spin on this is to take a mugshot to capture your ‘best look’ rather than your worst. We do know that some males, especially the younger generations, seem to think it is fun and cool get arrested and have a mugshot taken,” explains Naidoo.
Personal attention Rather than focusing on pushing huge volumes of clients through the door, Medellin is centred on the customer experience. Naidoo continues: “It is all about the experience and this has always been the intention. My wife, Maheshnee Nair, and I were always big on grooming and being regulars at most beauty and grooming establishments, we knew what worked for us and what didn’t. What kept us satisfied and what prevented us from going back. We took our own experience, considered our own needs and began thinking through what we wanted to invoke in customers’ minds and experience when they come through our doors. From this we built the customer ethos and the unique elements/ touch points that would create it.
“Off course there will always be a need to tweak or enhance our offering as customer needs are ever-changing, but again, this is something we decided from the start to never compromise on. Very importantly, we will never offer a service or product that we would not purchase for ourselves. I am all about people, and if you focus on the person, the rest will come. So, whereas the list of services and products are mostly common in the barbering world, this cannot be replicated.” He notes that Medellin has just launched its own booking app, which has proved very popular. Customers can shop for products on the app, as well as book appointments. The Medellin team plan to open four new stores in 2020, some of which will be franchised. PB
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Hair News
38
Crowning GLORY
Tress-a-licious news from the hair front
Hard-working combo
D is for detox The BLONDME Detoxifying System is Schwarzkopf Professional’s first blonde recovery regime designed to revive and protect blonde hair in three easy steps. It is powered by BLONDME’s integrated Bonding Technology, with vitamin C, amino acids, moringa seed and malic acid, known for detoxifying, strengthening and protecting properties.
Inoar’s Hair & Body Shampoo & Shower Gel moisturises and tones both hair and body. With a mild, 100% botanical and vegan, sulphate-free formula, in one step it cleanses and softens, leaving you radiant and revitalised, all with the relaxing aroma of Orange flower. This product is free of parabens.
011 617 2614
012 346 1721
Put your mask on Moroccanoil’s Color Depositing Mask collection comprises seven temporary shades with dual-benefit, ultra-nourishing formulas that deposit pure pigments into the hair, while providing the treatment benefits of a deeply conditioning mask. Shades are Aquamarine, Hibiscus, Platinum, Champagne, Rose Gold, Bordeaux and Cocoa.
011 305 1600 online @ probeauty.co.za
Going neutral The Ladine™ 2-in-1 Infused BioComplex Neutralizing Shampoo is a new innovation, featuring the unique unisphere technology. This technology is an innovative way of combining two different formulas for the optimal results, allowing the right amount of BioComplex to be used in the neutralising process after a relaxer service.
011 617 2614
Pigmentation
40
Brightening all the way
I
Skin pigmentation disorders cause changes to the colour of skin and can be triggered by a number of factors, including sun exposure, hormonal influences, age and injuries to the skin.
t’s well known that clients with darker skin will be more prone to hyperpigmentation, the result of increased melanin production. Says Ursula Volbrecht of DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care: “The most common forms of hyperpigmentation are melasma, sunspots (i.e. liver spots), and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Melasma is believe to be caused by hormonal changes and may develop during pregnancy or with contraceptive use, while PIH is the result of injury or inflammation to the skin (e.g. acne). “Tyrosinase is an enzyme that plays a vital role in the melanogenesis process, working to convert the protein, tyrosine, into melanin or pigment as we know it. Tyrosinase inhibitors such as sepiwhite, kojic acid, alpha arbutin and vitamin C work well to target both existing pigment within the skin, as well as helping to attenuate further pigment online @ probeauty.co.za
formation. In order to successfully target hyperpigmentation, one needs to understand that, as this concern is multi-faceted, no one single product will work in exactly the same way for everybody. DermaFix therefore offers a variety of skin correctives assisting with hyperpigmentation.”
Vitamin C Volbrecht points out that vitamin C, as found within the DermaFix Vitamin C Serum, DermaFix ACC Vitamin C and DermaFix Ferulic + C + E, has long been touted as a preferred ingredient, helping to brighten the skin, whilst inhibiting further pigment formation by acting as a tyrosinase enzyme inhibitor. DermaFix ACC Tranexamic targets stubborn dermal pigment, including melasma, by inhibiting the growth of tyrosine,
as well as the activity level of melanin, starting to ‘chip away’ at the hyperpigmentation from the edge inwards. As a corrective moisturiser, DermaFix MelanoDerm acts as a pigment antagonist, helping to normalise pigment production in order to brighten the skin. It is especially beneficial in pre-advanced protocols to help suppress melanin response to stimulation. DermaFix UltraBright is a fast-acting skin brightener for body-related hyperpigmentation concerns, incorporating alpha arbutin as a tyrosinase inhibitor, and tranexamic acid for its antiinflammatory and tyrosine growth inhibition properties. Volbrecht points out that DermaFix Brightening Wipes offer a high potency additive for skin brightening and retexturising benefits. “They provide a combination of enzyme activated arbutin, kojic acid, vitamin c and
salicylic acid in a unique delivery system helping to brighten the skin.” As sun is the biggest contributing factor towards the formation of hyperpigmentation, she believes no hyperpigmentation routine is complete without the inclusion of a high-protection sunscreen, such as DermaFix DermaShield SPF40 / SPF50 for daily use, offering high UVA/UVB protection. DermaFix Ferulic + C + E can also be incorporated.
Focused treatment Environ Skin Care’s Focus Care™ Radiance+ range comprises four innovative products that work together to help inhibit the six complex steps involved in the formation of hyperpigmentation. The first step involves the MultiBioactive Mela-Prep Lotion, an expertly formulated combination of highly specialised ingredients for a brighter, more even-toned complexion. For step two, the Vita-Botanical Mela-Fade Serum System is comprised of two serums that work together and boast a potent blend of vitamins and botanicals that assist in targeting the root causes of skin discolouration. The last step consists of the Intense C-Boost Mela-Even Cream. This technologically advanced vitamin C infused cream reveals a brighter, more evenly radiant and healthier looking skin. Environ’s Vitamin Step-Up System™ should be used for at least 30 days before Radiance+.
“Keep your skin rich in vitamin A because this is the most effective way to minimise your chances of getting pigmentation,” says Environ founder, Dr Des Fernandes.
Triple whitening action From Danish medical skincare brand, Beauté Pacifique, the Tyrostase Brown Pigment Equalizer is for use directly on hyperpigmented spots or, more systemic, to whiten dark skin and even-out blemishes. This lotion combines two herbal extracts and a special form of vitamin C into a unique triple whitening action. All three whitening ingredients have been clinically tested and result in a significant whitening effect. The product influences the enzyme, tyrosinase, which controls the synthesis of melanin and reduces the production rate of melanin and by partially reversing the synthesis. Ingredients include diacetyl boldine; retinyl palmitate (a particularly stable form of vitamin A); glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract; and sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
Eye colour Jacqui Faucitt of Régima notes that over many years of dealing with people who are prone to pigmentation, she has found it is not only the skin colour that dictates whether someone is likely to develop hyperpigmentation, but also the eye colour. “Even when someone is blonde or a redhead, with a lighter skin colour, if they have brown eyes, they are prone to develop hyperpigmentation.”
She recommends the RégimA in-salon 50% Power Peels to treat pigmentation. “We have combined six natural acids into these fast acting, yet safe all year round, peels. They provide the renowned action of malic, lactic and citric acids with advanced peel technology, together with ingredients produced by biological engineering, using no exogenous chemicals. These include peach leaves, raspberry fruit extract and pyrus malus acid at 50% concentration, with added healing ingredients such as renowned Centella Asiatica.
Hibiscus flower From Six Sensational Skincare, the Brightening & Even Tone Booster Elixir Serum contains acids of the hibiscus flower that play a strong exfoliating role, thus increasing cell turnover. It also contains a strong lightening and whitening active. The Six Brightening Enzyme Peel with papain enzyme oxygenates cells and fights bacteria, leaving the skin bright and smooth. Also from Six, the Vitamin C Moistusiring Cream reduces levels of damaging free radicals, increases skin firmness, brightens skin tone and provides effective wrinkle reduction.
Hexylresorcinol Janssen Fair Skin Brightening Night Care is a light formula cream that contains hexylresorcinol, which inhibits tyrosinase. Hexylresorcinol also acts against fine lines, wrinkles and slackness. Brightening Night Care should be applied (avoiding eye area) each night after the 2-Phase Concentrate. The Fair Complexion Serum from Janssen also has a high concentration of hexylresorcinol, making it an intensive skin brightening booster. PB
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Pigmentation
41
Aesthetic Medicine
42
Kick-starting
skin’s revitalisation the
process Investing in aesthetic medicine equipment is a must for any salon or clinic looking to increase their service offerings, and create a more holistic approach to anti-ageing skincare.
A
s the costs for aesthetic medicine equipment may be high, there are some very important factors to consider before you purchase a device. Says Tashlyn Louis, clinical trainer at Radiant Healthcare: “First and foremost, ensure the equipment that you are investing in, is in demand in your clinic. Once you have made a decision – the next step is to ensure that you will get the desired results. This is especially important as clients will be paying more for these services, thus increasing their expectations.” Louis notes that any piece of equipment that emits radiation, or that carries a current, needs to be registered with the Department of Health: Radiation Control. She continues: “Official distributors always comply with this requirement, ensuring that all devices imported by these distributors are legal in South Africa. “CE marking is a certification mark that indicates conformity with the health, safety, and online @ probeauty.co.za
environmental protection standards for products sold within the European Economic Area (EEA). It’s important to note that CE Medical certification is a legal requirement in this country. If a laser does not have this (including a medical conformity number), it is not allowed to be in South Africa and the Department of Health can take legal actions, such as closing your salon.” These rules and regulations can be found in the Schedule of Listed Electronic Products Hazardous Substances Act, No. 15 of 1973 Regulation No. R.1302, 14 June 1991. Another document from the Department of Radiation Control (i.e. Requirements for the safe use of Class 3B and Class 4 Lasers or Laser systems) outlines the exact requirements needed for safety in South Africa. These requirements follow the exact same steps needed by the European Economic Area. If a company is unable to produce this certificate, they have sold you a device illegally. Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers adds: “While FDA (US Food and
Drug Administration) approval is not a requirement in South Africa, it can be seen as a further safety and production quality feature. The FDA system was designed to protect US citizens against unsafe medical devices and therefore cannot guarantee the safety of a medical device if manufactured outside the US. ‘FDA approved’ means that the agency has determined that the ‘benefits of the product outweigh the known risks for the intended use’. “If any salon owners are thinking of purchasing preowned devices, they should note that only devices which have already previously been licensed in South Africa and which have subsequently been distributed and used in this country, may be resold within South Africa. The importation of a pre-owned device is strictly prohibited except if such a device adheres to all the above requirements. If a device that has been refurbished in South Africa is bought, it should adhere to these regulations and prove that the refurbishment was done by a CE qualified technician.”
Venus Concept
Aesthetic Medicine
43 In sun-drenched South Africa and with its diverse population, it is key to have appropriate skin rejuvenation technologies that are safely indicated for all skin types. So says Thyrza Price of Venus Concept Africa. She continues: “Venus Concept provides three main options when considering technology for skin rejuvenation services. Our devices encompass the following technologies: combined Multi-Polar Radio Frequency and Magnetic Pulse, which is found in Venus Concept’s proprietary (MP)2 applicators, an IPL solution and Nanofractional Radio Frequency.” The Diamond Polar (MP)2 applicator is available on the Venus Freeze PlusTM, the Venus VersaTM, the Venus LegacyTM and the Venus VivaTM. MultiPolar Radio Frequency (RF) produces fast and homogenous heat through multiple tissue depths causing collagen denaturation and contraction. Pulsed Electro Magnetic Fields (PEMF) promote neovascularity and increased nutrient flow, collagen synthesis and neo-collagenesis through fibroblast proliferation. This aids healing and supports tissue maintenance. (MP)2 technology is safe for all skin types. “IPL Photorejuvenation is an industry standard for reducing the appearance of benign vascular and pigmented lesions and our SR IPL applicator is featured on our multiplatform Venus VersaTM. Venus Concept provides adjustability of both fluence and pulse duration to effectively target the lesion through its phases of reduction without compromising patient safety and comfort or efficacy. This technology is safely indicated for skin types I to III/IV. “Nanofractional RF featured on the VenusVivaTM is the most versatile skin rejuvenation technology on the market today. Micro wounds at the surface and fully customisable energy delivery in the deeper layers of the skin enable operators to adjust for >
online @ probeauty.co.za
Aesthetic Medicine
44 a variety of skin conditions. RF energy is delivered via patented tip technology. A large spot size and small footprint per pin (150 x 20 microns) leaves sufficient intact tissue for faster wound healing, uniform post-treatment tissue appearance and low to no downtime. SmartScanTM uses a unique algorithm to scan between randomized groups of pins to deliver energy at variable densities in a single tip, allowing for safer treatments for more skin types. Patented pattern selection technology enables customized patterns for maximum flexibility, comfort and control during treatment, leading to more consistent clinical outcomes. This technology is safe for all skin types, including skin types IV – VI that are too risky with IPL or Fractional Laser. “Our flagship, award winning Total Facial Rejuvenation protocol is TriBellaTM. It combines IPL Photorejuvenation, (MP)2 and Nanofractional RF in one treatment session to simultaneously enhance tone, tightness and texture. It is ideal for light to medium skin tones. The Venus VersaTM multiplatform device accommodates all three applicators required to offer this protocol. Your unique clinic requirements will determine whether you want to invest in a multi-platform device, or perhaps split technologies to provide capacity over multiple treatment rooms,” states Price.
Aesthetic Machine Supply The IPL RF E-light Skin rejuvenation & Hair removal device from Aesthetic Machine Supply (Professional Beauty Equipment Manufacturer) has a photo-rejuvenation application. Pulsed light is emitted in a wide frequency range, so that it can treat several features of an aged skin. This treatment stimulates collagen generation, improving skin texture, reducing pore size and fine wrinkles. It is also possible to treat pigmented online @ probeauty.co.za
ClearLift is a single laser module that treats three separate indications for all skin types, with new and unique technological innovations for each indication. The treatment is based on a unique method of energy dispersion, emitting narrow pulse widths with multiple peaks of energy, resulting in more effective treatment and increased patient comfort. ClearLift delivers photo acoustic shockwaves to the target area through high laser intensities in nanosecond pulses. spots and little veins. The device reduces the intensity of sunspots, as well as acts on the superficial capillaries, causing them to collapse so they are no longer visible through the skin.
ClearLift Nicola Steenkamp, Best Lasers Sales & Clinical Training, says: “Considering that pigmentation and laxity are natural forms of ageing, it’s important to consider both aspects in rejuvenation. “Laser technology will target both pigmentation and antiageing rejuvenation. ClearLift™ (Q-Switched Nd:YAG), the noninvasive, no downtime, pain free hand piece that features on the Harmony XL Pro device from Alma Lasers, has won the Best Anti-Ageing Treatment Award for 2019-2020 at the My Face My Body Awards.”
Exilis Elite From BTL Medical, Exilis Elite uses a specific radiofrequency combined with ultrasound waves, both delivered simultaneously, for the remodeling and rejuvenation of facial features, offering skin tightening benefits, tissue volume, tone, elasticity and reduction of wrinkles. Says Branislav Sučanský of BTL Medical: “The treatment itself is a completely safe, pain-free experience with absolutely no downtime. Although improvements can be seen after just one session, the full course takes up to six treatments of approximately 60 minutes each for a full face and neck treatment on a weekly basis. However, patients can have just their problem areas
treated and then the treatment time is shorter. Problem areas include the cheeks, eyes, forehead, jaw line, jowls and neck.” The Exilis Elite system has been awarded the title, ‘Best Skin Tightening Device’ at The Aesthetic Show, as well as ‘Best Body Shaping Device’ at The Woman’s Choice Awards and ‘Best Skin Tightening or Product’ at the MyFace MyBody Awards. “Added to this, are the many clinical papers and studies that confirm its advantages for facial skin tightening, which provide the reassurance that it is a scientifically proven and clinically tested device and procedure,” concludes Sučanský.
Elos Plus Distributed by Radiant Healthcare, Elos Plus from Syneron is a complete multi-
platform workstation. Elos technology (electro-optical synergy) is a revolutionary step forward in the practice of aesthetic medicine. This device enables a deep penetrating combination of optical (laser or pulsed light) and radiofrequency energies. By combining these energies, the optical energy can be lowered by up to 60% for more comfortable treatments, while yielding the desired clinical efficacy. This makes treatments more effective and safe to use on all skin types.
In terms of the four different pulsed light (IPL) hand pieces, Lilac – a single hand piece with quick interchangeable filters – meets most patient needs. The Pulsed Light hand piece has filters with a spectrum of emission between 400nm-1200nm, which meets most skin rejuvenation needs of clients. Patient comfort is maximised via efficient integrated Sapphire Cooling, which is selectable from 5˚C to 25˚C. Olivier continues: “In terms of Luxea’s five dfferent laser hand pieces, DEKA has succeeded in miniaturising laser sources, while ensuring high-performing treatment of vascular and pigmented skin lesions, ablative and nonablative skin rejuvenation, tattoo removal, effective hair removal and much more.”
Luxea A complete, modular, upgradable and expandable system, Luxea from DEKA, distributed by Hitech Lasers, comprises four pulsed light hand pieces, five laser hand pieces, and one radiofrequency hand piece, offering a wide range of skin and beauty treatments. “These 10 latest-generation hand pieces make Luxea the ideal way to broaden a patient base, comfortably,” states Naomi Olivier of Hitech lasers. “The hand pieces ensure limitless possibilities of use with one modular system. Luxea will ensure a rapid return on investment (ROI) and total patient satisfaction will increase your business.” She reveals that Luxea was the 2018 winner of the prestigious, The Aesthetic Industry Award.
The five laser technologies in the Luxea hand pieces are: LP Nd: YAG; Nd:YAP; QS Nd:YAG; Diode; and Er:YAG. Luxea’s radiofrequency hand piece is suited to skin rejuvenation and cellulite treatment. This Setis RF hand piece comes with five different interchangeable tips and a builtin temperature sensor. PB online @ probeauty.co.za
Aesthetic Medicine
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Aesthetic Medicine
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Natural
‘tweakments’ to trend in 2020 The desire for a subtle, more conservative treatment outcome is driving the trend for 2020 away from the overly glam and obvious, to a more conservative and natural look, writes KAREN ELLITHORNE.
E
ven the cosmetic surgical enhancements that a large majority of women are seeking are not as dramatic as they were previously. There is a movement to, and stronger interest in, smaller breast implants and even non implant breast augmentation performed using the patient’s own body fat. This more natural-looking trend is feeding the growth of PRP (Platelet-rich Plasma) injections and non-surgical nose jobs. Both of these treatments are on the list of trends to watch in 2020, according to the International Association for Doctors in Aesthetic Medicine. They also include laser resurfacing facial treatments, lip fillers and sculpted, defined abdominals as big trends.
online @ probeauty.co.za
There is a movement to, and stronger interest in, smaller breast implants and even non implant breast augmentation performed using the patient’s own body fat. Millennials People aged between 18 and 34 are defined as millennials, and this demographic represents a greater percentage of the population that is looking to improve themselves. They are more likely than those 35 years or older to be making plans to improve or enhance their appearance.
Reports have shown that ageism is most prevalent amongst millennials, as they exhibit the most negative attitude towards ageing out of all of the age groups. Therefore, millennials do consider aesthetic medicine an acceptable and achievable part of normal life. This makes them a great potential market to target for new treatments and procedures. According to a Real Self commissioned survey, 91% percent of younger millennial women (those aged 18 to 24) and 90% of older ones (aged 25 to 35) say they’re unhappy with at least one aspect of their bodies. Many are willing to look beyond retail to resolve their concerns, with 63% of younger millennials and 67% of older ones saying they’d be willing to undergo medical aesthetic treatments and plastic surgery, more than any other age group. If you are wanting to target this market, a strong online presence is required and social media interaction (especially showing before and after pics on real people) is vital. Millennials love to share their experiences and results.
Sexual rejuvenation treatments still growing
Laser resurfacing
The vaginal rejuvenation industry in particular has experienced major evolution with considerable investments been made into this type of technology. These new to market type of devices are not just gaining popularity, but are also ranking high in consumer satisfaction too. International medical insurance company, Hamilton Fraser, predicts that sexual rejuvenation will be one of the biggest treatment trends, and expects both surgical and non-surgical procedures to hit high marks with consumers. In addition to vaginal rejuvenation, they note that there is a dramatic growth for male sexual rejuvenation as well, with multiple companies focusing their technologies in this area.
Male facial cosmetic procedures increase The American Society of Plastic Surgeons show that currently men only make up 13% of non-invasive cosmetic procedures, and 8% of minimally invasive procedures. While it is never expected to even out between men and women, it has been noted that there is a distinct growth in the number of procedures men are getting. In particular, men are requesting botulinum toxin, chemical peels, eyelid surgery and liposuction.
Defining abs Emsculpt is a brand new technology launched by BTL that has created a buzz in celebrity circles. Not only does this technology destroy fat cells, but it builds up muscle fibres at the same time, resulting in more defined abdominals. It also has great results in firming and contouring buttocks. The technology is said to cause contractions in the muscle 20,000 times in a 30-minute duration and contracts them beyond their physical limit. It also targets the fat in the area, which is something exercise alone cannot achieve.
Lip fillers The focus will shift towards a more balanced facial appearance, with the lips occupying a proportionate part of the face. The trend is to enhance the natural shape of the mouth. Oversized lip enhancement is no longer in fashion and according to predictions, this trend will not be returning anytime soon. Shaping of lips will be more refined and will mostly be for rejuvenation purposes or asymmetry corrective purposes. There is a wide variety of dermal fillers that can be injected into the lips but the most common type contains hyaluronic acid. This is a natural substance already found in the body and helps to improve the shape and volume of the mouth. The results of this treatment can last up to six months and then the client will need to get a follow up procedure. Another type of procedure for the the lips is the lip flip, which involves the injection of botulinum toxin in the muscles around the lips to produce a more prominent pout. The hyaluronic acid fillers are injected inside the lips themselves, while the lip flip uses a different approach to attain a much fuller lip.
This is an ideal procedure to treat many skin care concerns, from wrinkles to acne to darkened pigmentation. With the assistance of laser technology, the epidermis can literally be removed one layer at a time. There are two types of laser treatments available – ablative (complete destruction of epidermis) and non-ablative (partial destructing of the epidermis). The C02 or Erbium lasers are the most commonly used ablative lasers for complete resurfacing, while fractionated lasers, infrared lasers and high impact light sources are more commonly used for non-ablative laser resurfacing treatments. The different lasers vary in the types of treatment that they address, with the ablative technologies offering better results but much longer recovery time. The non-ablative can provide a more moderate result, with minimal side effects and very little downtime. This wide range of technology is being used by many aesthetic clinics around the world to help patients regain their confidence.
Home tech As technology becomes further integrated into our daily lives, smart beauty devices are becoming more prominent as add-ons to home care protocols. These types of devices can assist with cleaning, exfoliation and product penetration and are generally the home care version of the professional in clinic type technologies. This is a trend that is very prominent at the moment and, with continued advancements, is expected to continue growing. PB A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
online @ probeauty.co.za
Aesthetic Medicine
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Product News
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market IN THE
Our round-up of new products and treatments
Silky product By combining advanced skincare technology with its precious signature ingredient, Koishimaru Silk, Sensai creates an endless ocean of moisture within your skin’s environment for a flawlessly silky complexion. This product containing Japanese precious silk is available in two formulations – Cream and Fluid.
082 666 0671
Handy microdermabrasion From LCN, Skin Expert Microderm is suitable for all skin types and comes with different attachments and intensity levels that can be set individually. Dead skin cells and skin irregularities can be removed with the diamond attachment. Microcirculation of the skin is promoted due to the generating of a vacuum.
New science DermaFix ACC Retinol + incorporates ‘new science’ with the addition of its key ingredient Cylasphere® Retinol, an agar microsphere encapsulating retinol. Encapsulation allows for a slow release into the skin for improved bioavailability, efficacy and a gentler use. This serum, incorporating advanced vitamin C, resurfaces and revitalises the skin..
010 593 3293
086 128 2323
Oil for all
Scent like the sea
From Be You Skincare comes a beautiful, pure and lightly fragranced multiple use treatment oil to gently restore balance to your body, mind and soul. It can be used as a massage oil, cleanser, moisturiser, hair treatment, body-oil beard oil, hand and foot massage oil, bath oil, skin balancing oil, after sun and skin healing balm at night and during the day.
Oceanic Room Mist is formulated with TheraVine’s signature fragrance – a blend consisting of lemon, cardamom seeds and cedarwood – to instantly refresh any room or linen. This inspiring, ocean-like fragrance has a calming effect on the mind and body
082 322 7005
021 886 6623
online @ probeauty.co.za
LASH & BROW STYLING NEW
a t s i Brow
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FEEL LIKE A PEE CHEMICAL PEELING MODALL?
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Stay connected to the beauty industry by visiting www.probeauty.co.za
50 SAAHSP
Professional Body for the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry in SA
Cidesco Section South Africa
Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
SAAHSP Exam Pilot Program report back SAAHSP – CIDESCO Section SA’s very first SAAHSP Exam Pilot Program was introduced to its Training Providers, via a roadshow, in May 2019. The aim of this roadshow was to talk to the Students / Candidates, giving them the opportunity and option of doing the SAAHSP / CIDESCO Practical Exam together, and the SAAHSP Theory MCQ on another day. This gave SAAHSP a wonderful opportunity
to present the Students/ Candidates their Certificates on the day. We are extremely proud to say we had 93% pass rate and are delighted with the result for the first Pilot Program. We as an organisation would like to congratulate our Training Providers and Students /
Candidates for achieving such excellent results, and bringing professionalism to our industry. We are planning a roadshow in early 2020, to all Providers to inform them of the new CIDESCO Certificates and to encourage Training Providers to offer CIDESCO.
SAAHSP announces Directors SAAHSP would like to introduce its Board of Directors for 2020. • Elna Hagen – President elna@saahsp.co.za • Feroza Fakir - Vice President – Professional Body Director Educational Bodies feroza@saahsp.co.za
• Karen Morris - Financial Director karen@saahsp.co.za • Joanne Cohen - Education Director – CPD & Designations joanne@saahsp.co.za • Tanya Dimas - Marketing Director tanya@saahsp.co.za
• Ansa Bronkhorst - Membership Director ansa@saahsp.co.za • Joelette Theron - Executive Director – Professional Body Administrator – Company Secretary joelette@saahsp.co.za
Dermatech School Open Day The general public in Cape Town were given a glimpse into the exciting world of hair, health and skincare at Dermatech’s recent Open Day Event, the second one of 2019. Says Heidie Chaplin of Dermatech: “We organised a spectacular event where we showcased our wonderful students and suppliers. Our Open Days are anything but conventional. The theme of this event was ‘Extreme Makeover’. “In May, we held another Open Day, themed ‘Hair & Makeup Fantasia – A Night at the Movies’. It was truly amazing; students had to choose characters from movies and then showcase their characters at the Fantasia Hair and Make-up Runway Show at the end of the Event. Visitors were also given an opportunity online @ probeauty.co.za
to watch the students at work.” The key focus this time round was not only hair and make-up, but all aspects of the beauty industry. Visitors watched the student hairstylists and beauticians/therapists at work, not only finalising the look, but also performing various beauty
treatments (facials, manicures and pedicures etc.) on six volunteer models. During the course of the morning (ie. from 9am to 1pm), visitors were also able to take a tour of the Campus and interact with the Dermatech lecturers and support staff.
News
51
Issue 30
Jan/Feb 2020
PANTONE PERFECTION Classic Blue
FIRST RESPONDER Acknowledging a bad Facebook review
The Big Dipper Dip powder systems
O
ur lead news story in this issue focuses on an alarming and controversial new ‘technology’ that seems to be infiltrating the market – the so called ‘gel polish burst removers’. While products of this nature may well remove gel very quickly, they may also do gross damage to the nails. The underlying but strong message of this story is – only ever use professional nail brands and only source products from official distributors. Social media is so valued by marketers and businesses alike for its reach, and in particular, the personal nature of its wide reach. Everyone feels connected to social media, because they are. The downside is that bad reviews of one’s salon or services have the same wide reach. There is a subtle art to responding to a bad review on Facebook, and in this issue of NailFile we provide some valuable tips on just how to do this, because respond you must. Nonresponse to a bad review will have dire consequences as it will create the impression that you, as the salon owner, just don’t care.
51 News
Nail Design Competition Welcome News
52
Issue 30
Jan /Feb 202
0
PANTONE PERFECTI ON e
Classic Blu
FIRST RESP
ONDER Acknowled Facebook ging a bad review
The Big Dipper Dip powd er system s
Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
WHAT’S INSIDE
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Industry News
Step by Step
Style Savvy
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Ask the Experts
Step by Step
In the Market
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Technology
Top Tech Talk
Stay in the know
Responding to bad Facebook reviews
56 Salon Focus
Tapping into the lipstick effect online @ probeauty.co.za
The marbled effect
Milk bath nails
The dipping system makes a comeback
Feeling blue
Product Hub
Mariette Van Wyk
53 News
NEWS
Information at your fingertips
Industry warned against gel polish burst removers New gel polish removers, described as ‘very dangerous’, have made their way onto the South African market. Says beauty professional and educator, Sonette Van Rensburg: “Gel polish burst removers are now being sold to salons as well as to consumers. These removers are proven to have illegal ingredients, along with falsified MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) sheets. Yes, this is a super-quick new method and product to remove gel polish, but it’s not at all safe and has no ingredient listing. “I have previously written about and advised nail professionals to ensure that they only purchase nail products from reputable and reliable professional suppliers. Buying cheap, unlabelled products can cost you dearly and can cause irreparable damage to you and your clients.” Industry scientist, Doug Schoon of www.schoonscientific.com, recently released information on burst remover products. Says Schoon: “They contain
dangerous solvents, typically used to remove epoxy paints from bridges and/ or buildings, of course while wearing the appropriate respirators and other safety equipment used for hazardous work. I must emphasis most strongly that they are NOT safe for use on nails and NOT safe to inhale. “They contain 6% Methanol and 84% Methylene Chloride. Both substances are prohibited in cosmetics in most countries, if not all. These are considered dangerous concentrations, in my view. I believe an international investigation into this matter is needed.” Schoon notes that he is referencing above a report for one particular product. “However,” he continues, “I believe that these results apply to all of the so-called ‘burst type’ removers. They are manufactured by unscrupulous companies in China and distributed worldwide by naive companies who clearly did not do safety testing or ask too many questions.
Coty explores sale of pro brands, including OPI At the time of going to press, American multinational, Coty Inc., had launched a process to explore strategic alternatives for its professional beauty business and associated hair brands. Affected brands include OPI, Wella and ghd (Good Hair Day). Coty’s Board of Directors have determined that moving forward
the company will focus more intently on its fragrance, cosmetics and skincare businesses. These strategic initiatives are aligned with Coty’s previously announced turnaround plan focused on improving the company’s execution capabilities, better leveraging its assets and delivering significant financial
“That’s the real problem, in my view. These companies are responsible for the products they sell, even if they believed the lies told to them by the manufacturers. That’s a bogus excuse. This sort of fiasco is exactly why professionals should stick to pro-only authorised distributors and pro-only products.” Visit https://www.epa.gov/ newsreleases/ and read ‘EPA bans consumer sales of Methylene’. To stay current on what’s happening and learn about the legality and dangers of the ingredient methylene chloride, be sure to ‘like’ https://www.facebook.com/ DougSchoonsBrain/ for updates. improvements. After a thorough analysis, the management team and Board reached the conclusion that even with its strong current performance, the future growth opportunities of the professional beauty business lie increasingly outside the Company’s core strategic focus. In the meantime, Coty acquired a majority stake in Kylie Cosmetics (the brand founded by reality star Kylie Jenner), and will look to expand the brand globally and into new beauty categories. online @ probeauty.co.za
Nail Design Challenge
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NailFile Photographic Design Challenge
I
nspired by the Downton Abbey Movie, this theme focuses on the fashions and lifestyle of the 1920s – that glorious time following the First World War when women threw off their restricting corsets to don slinky, satin, low-waisted gowns, long strings of pearls, sparkly and often feathered head-bands, closefitting cloche hats, glamorous long gloves and feather boas, to party the night away. This was the era of history when American Jazz Music prevailed and when the highly energetic Charleston was the popular dance of the day. Ladies cut off their long, flowing locks in favour of chinlength bobs, wore dramatic make-up and were practically always seen with a long, bejewelled cigarette holder in one hand, and a glass of champagne in the other. Gentlemen sported pencil moustaches and flat, slicked back hair, and wore well-tailored
pinstriped three-piece suits, tuxedos, folded handkerchiefs, fedora hats, suspenders, bow ties and black patent leather shoes and spats. The NailFile Photographic Nail Design Challenges run throughout the year and were created by Sonette van Rensburg to encourage nail techs to tap into their creativity. The deadline for entries is 21 February 2020.
Rules & Regulations Designs must be created according to the theme – The Roaring Twenties. Rhinestones and embellishments may be used but must not dominate. Nail stylists have complete artistic freedom to interpret and create their designs in any style they wish using flat, encapsulated 2D or 3D design work and techniques. 4. Designs must be created on a live model, either on natural nails or enhancements but not on tips only. 5. Photographs must be high quality. Photos MUST NOT include any product logos and there must be NO PRODUCTS in the photos. 6. The model’s hands, cuticles and nails must be perfectly manicured and in a good condition. PLEASE remove cuticle oil prior to taking your final photo entry. 7. Any length and shape may be achieved. 8. A combination of products and nail systems may be used, as long as it pertains to and complements the theme and look. 9. All 10 of the model’s nails must have a design and creation on them; each design on each nail must be different but must complement one another and be consistent in design flowing throughout all 10 nails to tell a story. 10. Designs must be the nail stylist’s own original work. 11. Please provide a WRITTEN step by step of your work that explains each step of how the nail designs are created, as well as photos to illustrate the steps and the inspiration behind your design. Additional points awarded for presentation. 12. Photos must be submitted by no later than the 21 February 2019 13. Photos must be emailed to nailfile@probeauty.co.za and clearly indicated and labeled with the name of the Nail Technician. Entries must include full contact details. 14. Winners and placements will be announced on social media and the following issue of Professional Beauty & NailFile magazine. The judge’s decision is final. To see the full list of Rules & Regulations go to www.probeauty.co.za 1. 2. 3.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Business Tips
55
ask
the EXPERTS
QUESTION: What should I do if I get a bad review from a client on my Facebook page? AYESHA RAJAH Firstly, breathe and don’t act impulsively! We have all been pressured into believing that not answering immediately would be more damaging, but in fact it is the opposite. Should you reply immediately, you run the risk of responding emotionally, which is only natural – it is your business after all – but this can be more damaging. With an immediate response, your chances of overreacting and not thinking through a logical approach to the problem become higher. The unsatisfied client may also be baiting you with more questions. You then run the risk of inflaming the situation instead of calming it down. That being said, you can’t respond three days later or never answer, hoping the problem will go away. Remember that it is not only your existing followers who are looking at your page but also new potential customers. This will be seen as a business that has very poor customer service skills and does not care. It is perfectly acceptable to reply within eight to 12 hours (i.e. within the business day).
Before I get into how to deal with responding to a bad review, here are some statistics on reviews: • A third of customers post online following inadequate customer service (New Voice Media). • 88% of people read reviews to determine the quality of a local business (Bright Local). • 87% of people say that a business needs a rating of 3-5 stars before they will use them. • When a brand responds to a customer on social media, 65% are more brand loyal (Sprout). We are in the service industry, which means that bad reviews are not unusual – in fact it is expected and would mainly be attached to poor customer service. For instance, a bad wax experience, chipped nails or clients who just don’t understand that laser hair removal is only 80-90% effective and want every single hair gone! It sometimes is completely out of your control regardless of the exemplary service you provide.
Here are some ways on how to respond to a negative review: • Have one or two generic responses prepared. • Pick up on keywords in a negative review in order to formulate a personalised reply. • Write a short, nonconfrontational reply that shows that you’ve read and understood the issues raised, no matter if they are unfounded. • Be sincere in your apology. • Thank the customer for their visit and taking the time to provide feedback. • Avoid including your business name and location in the reply, so that the negative review is less likely to be prioritised in search engines.
Ayesha Rajah is MD of Social Medi8, a social media marketing and management company specialising in the professional beauty industry.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Business SalonTrends Focus
56
‘the lipstick effect’ tapping into
Nail services play a big part in the overall turnover at the unusually named Morningside salon, Lesarmario. JOANNA STERKOWICZ speaks to co-owner, CINDY LEWIS, to find out more.
W
ith 15 manicure stations, seven pedicure stations and 13 nail technicians, it’s not surprising to hear that nail services account for 75% of revenue generation at Lesarmario Hair & Nail Bar in Morningside, Johannesburg. The salon opened on 27 May 2017. Says Cindy Lewis, who coowns the salon with sister-in-law (and best friend), Kayla Lewis: “Kayla and I are very impulsive but extremely determined women and were thinking about opening a salon after discussing how expensive it is to look and feel good. We thought about ‘the lipstick effect’, in which studies have proven that lipstick sales always go up in the middle of the month, the reasoning being that women want to feel good but midmonth can only afford a lipstick. Kayla and I wanted women to feel good throughout the month, with amazing services and pricing. Six weeks later our shop was opened.”
online @ probeauty.co.za
All in all, I would say that gel paint is our most popular service. Not many clients request nail art, although a few present pictures from Pinterest and ask our nail techs to replicate the looks. Nails were on the salon menu right from inception. “It was such fun meeting suppliers and learning about products and nails – there is definitely a lot more to it than just polish,” comments Lewis. Offering hair and nail services seemed like a good fit. Lewis continues: “Sometimes all a women needs is a good blowout to feel like a queen, or just a fresh manicure, and doing it together is even more of a
spoil. A lot of our nail services take place while clients are having blow-dries or hair colour treatments. We have clients who have limited time and try to do both treatments at once, but we also have others who prefer to do them separately. And, we also have those who come in solely for nails.”
Locale Choosing the salon’s location within the Aesthetic Centre on Hill Road in Morningside happened organically as they both live in the suburb. “We drove past the centre and decided we wanted our shop there as we felt we could reach a varied clientele, from the corporate lady to the busy mom. “In terms of design, our biggest focus was on open space, with a clean and sanitary look but not clinical – an earthy, yet stylish flow with a touch of contemporary. Our colour scheme comprises the grey tones that we have always loved, together with a pop of green,” says Lewis.
Business SalonTrends Focus
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Brand smart Venture into the unknown Neither of the Lesarmario owners has a background in beauty or hair – Cindy Lewis comes from the legal world, with Kayla Lewis formerly in the property industry. Says the former: “I would describe Kayla and I as businesswomen who are always seeking opportunities within the market. We are also looking at expanding Lesarmario through our treatment room and are soon off to Europe to review clothing ranges. “Being a family-run business, we are both very hands on and are at the salon daily, where we build relationships with unbelievable women. We also have an outstanding team that truly works so very hard. It’s important to ensure that our staff is happy, so every Saturday they receive lunches
to say thank you for their hard work. If our staff members are content, our clients will be happy. “I believe that we also have the best way to make appointments in that we utilise WhatsApp. We understand that women are busy, so we try to make it easy for them to make an appointment and get the spoil they justly deserve. We strive to provide the best service at the best price in the best salon.”
What’s in a name? It turns out that the name, Lesarmario, is very sentimental for the sisters-in-law. Lewis notes: “The name arises from two significant and special men who positively influenced us and left an imprint on us for eternity,” says Lewis. “Les is for Leslie, Kayla’s late grandfather, while Mario is my late grandfather. And so together you have Lesarmario. These gentlemen always held a very special place in our hearts. They truly were unbelievable human beings who essentially taught us so much about life; entrepreneurs who always inspired us as we were growing up. Lesarmario is in honour of them and knowing that they are always with us.”
Choosing which nail brands to offer at the salon involved trying and testing various products. All the products used for pedicures are mixtures to ensure that they can be used for all clients, including pregnant women. A lot of coconut oil and scrubs infused with honey or coconut are used in pedicures. Nail brands include Color Club, RV and Lola Lee. All in all, there are about 200 gel polish colours for clients to chose from. “Our choices above were done by process of elimination and ultimately decided upon based what worked best for the salon and, more importantly, our clients,” states Lewis. In terms of the salon’s most popular nail treatments, there is definitely an influx of pedicures from about August to April, especially Lesarmario’s signature pedicure. “All in all, I would say that gel paint is our most popular service. Not many clients request nail art, although a few present pictures from Pinterest and ask our nail techs to replicate the looks. But it’s generally a mix of colours on the hand and there is always at least one glitter nail request daily. We do keep up with the trends and at the moment it’s ombre, marbling and glitter,” concludes Lewis.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Step by Step
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marbled THE
EFFECT This intriguing and colour-rich design was created by ELAINE TIMCKE.
1 2 3 4
• Ensure the proper nail preparation has been completed. • Apply CG0s Calgel natural gel as a base layer to the natural nail, using a flat gel brush and cure in a 36 watt UV lamp for 30 seconds. • Apply a layer of Calgel nude colour gel CGPI08s and cure for two minutes. (Repeat colour application step for a second layer)
• Choose two or three nails and apply a thin layer of CG0s, using a flat brush and do not cure (this is the wet layer). • Using a colour of your choice (I used CGPI05s and CGBL09s) and a thin nail art brush, start by making three randomly placed drops of colour on the uncured wet layer of gel. Then drag it down to create the dripping paint effect. Also ensure that the free edge is painted in a French-style with the same colour. Leave it to self-level for a few seconds and cure for three minutes.
• On the remainder of the nails, apply another layer of CG0s natural gel over the cured Calgel colour CGPI08s and do not cure (this is the wet layer). Then, using a thin nail art brush, apply colour at random intervals across the nail, repeat with two more colours. I used CGPI05s, CGBL09s and CGYE05s. With a clean nail art brush, drag lines in various directions through the uncured gel to create the marbled effect. Leave for a few seconds to self-level and cure in a 36 watt UV lamp for three minutes.
• Seal by applying a layer of Calgel non-wipe top gel with a flat gel brush and cure for 90 seconds in a 36 Watt UV lamp.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Business Step by Trends Step
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Milk bath nails
This ethereally decorative nail art look was created by ASHLEY ANNE MÖLLER.
Step 1 • Prepare the natural nail. • Dust and clean the nails. • Using LCN Fiber Tech Clear, build a thin layer on the nail. • Cure after each layer under an LED lamp for one minute, or a UV lamp for two minutes.
Step 2 • Using flowers of your choice, lay them over the sticky dispersion left by LCN Fiber Tech Clear. • Cure under an LED lamp for one minute, or a UV lamp for two minutes.
Step 3
• Using a thin layer of LCN Recolution Natural White, outline the flowers. Fill the negative space with a thicker layer and apply an extremely thin layer over the flower. • Cure after each layer under an LED lamp for one minute, or a UV lamp for two minutes. • Build the nail as usual using LCN Fiber Tech Clear. • Cure after each layer under an LED lamp for one minute, or a UV lamp for two minutes. • File C Curve to perfection. • Seal nail with LCN High Shine Sealer.
Ashley Anne Möller has been doing LCN nails for three and half years. She was trained by the top trainers of LCN and fell in love with the product since day one. Möller now represents LCN as the salon manager at LCN Aesthetic Beauty Spa.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Technology
60
the
dipping system
makes a comeback Having been around since the late 1980s, the acrylic dipping system isn’t exactly a new trend but is now back again, with a whole new approach and advancement in technology and techniques, writes SONETTE VAN RENSBURG.
T
he acrylic dipping system was first introduced shortly after fibreglass wrap systems. It was a way of strengthening the natural nail using fine acrylic polymer powders and resin, instead of a monomer, thus reducing vapours and fumes in the salon. In fact, the Backscratchers Extreme Dipping system was one of the first brands to introduce this type of nail coating and was a service I offered in my salon, when I first started out more than 20 years ago. Over the past few years social media has definitely aided in the dipping system’s comeback. The dipping system is similar to that of a gel polish – an easy to apply, no fuss system and a way to provide quick enhancement services and overlays, as well as to fix broken split nails, offering a flexible, lightweight and durable coating with a natural look and finish, lasting a little longer than
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a regular manicure or gel polish application. It can also be removed quickly and easily with little damage to the natural nail. With it being such an easy system to apply, and not having to mix and worry about product consistency and control, it doesn’t require much technique. This is great for nail techs with little experience, allowing them to work more efficiently and with fewer tools.
Reinvention Over the years the system has been reinvented in different ways and combined with other products such as gel, silk and fibre. The ‘newly’ available dip systems, however, are now more advanced in that the activators are brush-on, rather than in spray form, to reduce odour. Dip powders are also ultra fine for effective absorption of gel or resin, thus eliminating the need
for too much buffing and filing. They are now available in an array of colours and glitters to achieve just about any look.
Double dipping Techniques too have evolved and additional tools have now been introduced, so as not to double dip into the powder, which is said to be unhygienic and can spread infections. Double dipping means placing the same client’s finger back into the product or powder, or repeatedly placing more than one client’s fingers into the same product. It is ultimately your professional responsibility and duty to ensure that you are keeping within the safe code of practices and procedures. World renowned scientist and author, Doug Schoon, says: “While a polymer powder may not encourage bacteria growth, an active infection could be spread through the powder.”
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There are now special dipping bowls so as to avoid double dipping and waste, using just enough product for each client. Other alternative methods of applying dip powders include pouring, dusting and sprinkling. However, ensure that you don’t pour over the top of the nail, or place the powder back into the same container. Any used powder should be discarded, otherwise it is exactly the same as double dipping.
Tips • Firstly, as advised in previous articles, never mix and combine systems and products from different suppliers. Always check that you obtain your products from a reputable and professional supplier and know what you are using. Make sure ingredients are listed and that suppliers provide you with MSDs (Material Safety Data Sheets). If not, then DON’T use it! • Shake your powders well before each use, especially when using pigmented and coloured powders. This breaks up the pigments and distributes them more evenly.
• Control your working environment and temperature. Polymerisation occurs faster in a warm room and slower in a cold room. • As with all nail enhancement systems or nail coating applications, REMEMBER that preparation is everything. Always prepare the natural nails properly to avoid infections and to ensure longevity of the treatment and service. • When applying the base coat, do it neatly and evenly over the entire surface of the natural nail and free edge, without touching the skin. This will ensure that you achieve a good, even coverage with no gaps or colour missing from the sides. • Apply additional thin layers rather than one or two thick layers, as you will achieve a far more consistent, smoother and natural look and the application will last much longer. It will also cut down on filing and buffing. • Apply your product neatly around the cuticle area, starting with the base coat,
applying it in a sideways sweeping movements so product isn’t pushed in under the cuticle area. As you work, use a small fine sculpting brush with IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) to remove any excess product on the skin. If product is attached to the skin, your application will lift. • Keep your products, tools, dipping bowls, bottles and brushes clean and free from product. This will ensure a smooth application every time, save your products and prevent cross contamination. • Your client should follow and adhere to the same after care as they would with any other nail enhancement or nail coating service.
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the beauty industry for 30 years, and has worked with, and educated for, many top professional brands.
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feeling blue Global colour authority, the Pantone Colour Institute, has designated Classic Blue as its Colour of the Year.
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ach year Pantone’s Colour of the Year is eagerly awaited as, for over two decades, it has influenced product development and purchasing decisions in multiple industries, including fashion, product packaging, graphic design and nails. Pantone 19-4052 Classic Blue is described by the colour authority as follows: “Instilling calm, confidence, and connection, this enduring blue hue highlights our desire for a dependable and stable foundation on which to build as we cross the threshold into a new era. “A timeless and enduring blue hue, Pantone 19-4052 Classic Blue is elegant in its simplicity. Suggestive of the sky at dusk, the reassuring qualities of the thoughtprovoking Pantone 19-4052 Classic Blue highlight our desire for a dependable and stable foundation on which to build as we cross the threshold into a new era.” Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Colour Institute, adds: “We are living in a time that requires trust and faith. It is this kind of constancy and confidence that is expressed by Pantone 19-4052 Classic Blue, a solid and dependable blue hue that we can always rely on. Imbued with a deep resonance, Classic Blue provides and an anchoring foundation. A boundless blue evocative of the vast and infinitive evening sky, Classic Blue encourages us to look beyond the obvious to expand our thinking; challenging us to think more deeply, increase our perspective and open the flow of communication.”
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Product
HUB
Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails
Colourful threading
Intelligent illumination
Bio Sculpture has introduced four new Biogel Threading Gel Colours, perfect for creating effortlessly beautiful nail art. The colours are: Red, Gold, Blue and Silver. These gels have a high viscosity with tangy threading properties.
The LCN Smart Cordless Light Unit has a removable bottom, which makes it perfect for pedicures. It lasts for between six to eight hours (cordless) and has three time settings to choose from, namely 30, 60 and 90 seconds. This 30W unit has 54 LEDbulbs and comes with a power supply accessory.
0861 246 435
010 593 3293
Perfect plus
Best friends forever
Calgel Plus is a new dynamic formulation of Calgel professional nail styling gel. This highly pigmented colour gel retains the same, much loved qualities of the classic Calgel colour gels. Calgel Plus is packaged in a beautifully designed, modern 2.5g jar, with a colour coded, descriptive label. It is both LED and UV light curable and non-yellowing.
The NSI Bridal Party Collection features six new Polish Pro shades, inspired by the concept of best friends invited to a wedding. Colours are: Ashley, Darlene, Denise, Isabel, Katia and Laura.
076 488 2624
011 624 1101
Feet first Matsimela Spa’s new foot range has been formulated to hydrate, exfoliate and protect your skin from harmful environmental elements. With clinically proven actives, the Heel Balm and Foot Mask Spray will give you salon smooth feet. The range is formulated to extend the life of your salon treatment.
011 704 7251
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Top Tech Talk In this issue, NailFile focuses on Mariette Van Wyk, a 47-year-old nail tech of 16-years standing who operates a one-woman salon in Tzaneen, Limpopo. When did you first know that you wanted to do nails for a living? It was in my Matric year back in 1991, but because of family circumstances, I decided to get a job in retail instead. In 2002 I was sponsored by a friend, Wilma Bredenkamp of Salon Exilis in Tzaneen, to do the Bio Sculpture training. I then worked just to survive and although I loved my work, I did not realise that a bigger ‘nail world’ existed. Even though I was on social media, I only discovered the Nail Tech South Africa Facebook page a year ago and realised I needed more training and to explore more products. I discovered Maskscara Gel-it, and their customer service and prices made it possible for my business to expand and explode with colour and art under one
Nails are NOT about the money or art. You have to love the beauty of a clean, healthy nail or have the patience to help the client grow a healthy nail by educating them. Your only competition is yourself – compete against your abilities of last month, to better yourself. roof. I now look forward to training my daughter, Bianca, to assist me.
Why do nails mean so much to you? Because they allow me to live out my passion for art and to reach out to women’s hearts through ‘holding their hands’.
Why do you think that women place such importance on their nails and hands? A beautiful manicure gives women confidence. Manicured hands are proof that they are looking after themselves. Beautiful nails are an escape from stress for some ladies, as while certain things in life we can’t change or improve, we can change and improve our nails on a regular basis.
When did you open your salon – Nails by Mariette? My salon has traveled all over Tzaneen since 2004, but became home-based (still in Tzaneen) since 2014. I have worked alone to this point but my daughter, Bianca, will soon join me once she completes her training. online @ probeauty.co.za
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Are there many other nail salons in Tzaneen? Nail salons in town, as well as home-based salons, have increased a lot in the last five years. I estimate that there are now approximately 50 in and around Tzaneen.
Have you had any mentors in your career? Oh yes! Wilma Bredenkamp was my first ‘training officer’, standing behind my chair daily, guiding me after my training. Maureen Brill from Bio Sculpture has had a big impact on me, getting me to be more relaxed and to think out of the box when doing nail art. Alina Fox from A. Fox StudioQDNails is such a hands-on educator. I love her work and her passion to train.
What has been the highlight of your career? I would say discovering Crystal Clawz Nail Art Lounge on Facebook. Jennifer Ley Miller’s weekly challenges are pushing me to do art that I never thought I was capable of doing. She gave
me the confidence to take on any picture reference my clients may bring to me, without me sweating blood. My daughter Bianca has started doing the challenges as well and I know that an even bigger highlight of my career is in the making, as she will excel beyond me very soon.
What percentage of your clients request nail art? At least 98% want art. When you have art on your own nails, they can’t resist, except for two or three of my clients who have gone without art now for eight years – they are strong and resistant! Most of my nail art clients request, or bring pictures of, specific designs. Even when I get the chance to create something, I prefer clients to guide me as their nails must represent them, not me.
Please describe the most challenging nail art that you’ve ever done. Paris-themed nails with the Eiffel Tower, a bicycle and flowers. This was years ago, before I had
proper training, brushes or art gel. It was stress and sweat coupled with the will to satisfy the lady (Liezel Ernst) who had an unshakable belief in my abilities since day one of my career. And, she took my nails to Paris!
What advice would you give to aspiring nail techs who want to forge a career in the industry? Nails are NOT about the money or art. You have to love the beauty of a clean, healthy nail or have the patience to help the client grow a healthy nail by educating them. Your only competition is yourself – compete against your abilities of last month, to better yourself. Do as much training as possible on a yearly basis. Stay ahead of clients with ideas and trends to show them, so you never have to say, ‘I don’t know’.
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