Promenade - Spring 2012 by Sussex Style

EDITORS: HEAD EDITORS: MADDY CHAMBERS, ALICE TEW; FASHION EDITOR: KATE ERINGER; JUNIOR FASHION EDITOR: DAISY ELLIS; FASHION CO-ORDINATOR: HANNAH CRUMP; MENS FASHION EDITOR: CHRISTIAN ILBURY; FASHION FEATURES EDITOR: REBECCA MELOY; ON THE PROMENADE EDITOR: HARRIET HEAVEN; BEAUTY EDITOR: EMMA GOULD CULTURE & ARTS EDITOR: EMILY HODGSON; JUNIOR CULTURE & ARTS EDITOR: REBECCA LUNATO; TRAVEL EDITOR: MORGAN CLAVERIE; FOOD EDITOR: ALEX HEPWORTH; FEATURE COLUMNIST: HEATHER GWYNTHER, LUCYANN WILKINSON; CREATIVE: PHOTOGRAPHY: MALCOM TAM. CHARLOTTE HARDING, CAMILLA DI RENZO, VERONICA OB, LAUREN HARDIMAN; GRAPHIC DESIGNERS: CHRISTIAN ILBURY; CARL PRYKE

CONTENTS

SPRING ISSUE—APRIL 2012

PG. 25

FASHION AND BEAUTY

4 5 6 8 9 10 14 17 18 20 22 24 34

FASHION FORECAST

TREND: PASTLES HOUSE OF HOLLAND REVIEW TRAWLING BRIGHTON’S SHOPS FRENCH FASHION DIRTY PRETTY THINGS

DEATH OF TREND OUR VERY OWN KOOPLES ON THE PROMENADE MENS FASHION MERMAID TREND

EDITORIAL BEAUTY

ARTS & CULTURE 38 40 42 44 46 47 48 50 53 56

NEW MUSIC ALBUM REVIEWS FILM REVIEWS

THE F-WORD VIEWING THE BIOPICS REVISITING THE CLASSICS WHAT’S ON

TRAVEL FOOD COLUMNS

CREDIT: stylist-journal.blogspot.co.uk

FASHIONFORECAST HANNAH ATKINS, OUR RESIDENT TREND-FORECASTER, TELLS YOU WHERE TO GO IN BRIGHTON TO PICK UP THIS SEASONS HOTTEST PIECES

PRETTY IN PASTLES Whether its ladylike with broderie anglaise at Louis Vuitton, 50s sirens at Prada, or modern minimalism at 3.1 Philip Lim, a soft palette of candy hues and sorbet shades was all over the catwalks this spring summer. Snap up this beautiful frothy chiffon dress by Traffic People (1) in the sale at Fruity near North Laine, also available in moody blue. Or, for a more ladylike look, try this drape-front QED London blouse (2) from Fashion Temple on Sydney Street. If the British weather has the mere thought of floaty fabrics sending a shiver down your spine, this baby blue knit from H&M (3) will keep you cosy in the meantime. This trend was a huge hit on the high street this season, so you’ll be spoilt for choice like a kid in a candy store!

TRAFFIC PEOPLE DRESS £23 FRUITY (8 GARDNER ST)

QED LONDON BLOUSE £18 TEMPLE 1 (1 SYDNEY ST)

KNITTED JUMPER £29.99 H&M (181-185 WESTERN RD)

POWER PRINTS With the rise of print-makers Peter Pilotto and Jonathan Saunders, and Mary Katrantzou’s recent collaboration with Topshop selling out in a matter of minutes, the British high street is in a print frenzy! From bold Tropicana florals, such as this New Look top (4), block colour as seen at Topshop (5), or geometric patterns like this vintage Kate & Aud dress (6) from Fruity, this trend ticks the bright and bold boxes. Whether you dare to clash prints, or wear a singular statement piece, make sure you avoid looking overcomplicated by keeping a strong, clean silhouette and your accessories to a minimum. Let the print do the talking.

TROPICANA PRINT TOP £19.99 NEW LOOK, 188191 WESTERN RD

VINTAGE JUMPER £18 TO BE WORN AGAIN (24 SYDNEYST)

FLORAL BLOCK COLOUR DRESS £49.99 TOPSHOP 95-99 CHURCHILL SQ

PANEL DRESS £15 TEMPLE 1 (1 SYDNEY ST)

KATE & AUD VINTAGE DRESS £39 FRUITY (8 GARDNER ST)

PEPLUM HEM TOP £19.99 H&M (181-185 WESTERN RD)

GO FOR GOLD Preparations for London 2012 are well under way. British designer Stella McCartney has paired up with Adidas to design the attire for our team at the this year’s Olympics, and the likes of Victoria Beckham and Versus are showing the influence of the sporting vibe in their spring summer 12 collections. Pay patriotic homage to our team in this red, white and blue vintage jumper (7) from To Be Worn Again on Sydney Street. For a more subtle nod to the trend, try this structured panel dress (8) by Closet from Fashion Temple. H&M’s orange and white neoprene top (9) nails two trends in one the peplum hem was a highly coveted this season too, and adds a feminine twist to this sporty look. WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY: HANNAH ATKINS

FASHION H&M

£29.99

NEW LOOK

£19.99

NEW LOOK

£14.99

MISS SELFRDIGE

£37.00 H&M

£34.99

NEW LOOK

£17.99

TREND ALERT

TOPSHOP

£46.00

Preen, Chanel, Phillip Lim - they all have done it, will you? Either way, the ice cream inspired colour palette is here to stay. Just look at the Mulberry ad shot down at the Brighton seafront - you’ll immediately know what I’m talking about! Last season we started to spot the trend with dressing white from head to toe, now watch it taken to the next level. Do you dare to dress all in lavender blue, baby pink or mint green? Step out of your comfort zone and help make this world a more beautiful place. Focus on simple cuts, a mixture of fabrics and top it off with industrial inspired accessories, but still: remember that less is more. Don’t feel like you can take the trend all the way? Invest in a knitted oversize jumper in your pastel of choice, and match it up with a pair of simple shorts to still work the trend. The high street brands have joined the movement, and Promenade are making it easy for you to jump on the train. I’ve searched the high street jungle high and low to find garments that you need to add just the right amount of colour to your spring closet. This trend makes fashion all about fun, so before the bills kick in - enjoy! PHILIP LIM S/S 12

EMELIE HOLGERSSON

CREDITS: RESPECTIVE WEBPAGES

CREDIT:YVANRODIC.COM

LONDON FASHION WEEK: HOUSE OF HOLLAND AW12 SHOW REPORT Kate Eringer, our resident Fashion Editor, reports from London Fashion Week On House of Holland show day, walking down the high street was a little different. Pret was no longer filled with businessmen in suits, but instead a who’s who of the fashion scene of 2012, amongst them was the notorious Susie Bubble of stylebubble.com. Outside Goldsmith’s Hall was a medley of fashion week cars and people with French, American and British accents kissing one another, looking like they stepped straight out of the pages of Vogue. Shortly they ushered us in, and the following went rather smoothly - despite being 20 minutes (fashionably) late. The show was set to a ‘ride it’ theme where ‘the House of Holland girl rides the Tour de France.’ It began, ironically, with a tongue-in-cheek remix of ‘Bicycle’ by Queen. The first looks were a series of bold cuts in striking primary colours, taken straight out of the Crayola box. Hol-

land then took those primary colours and turned them into stripes, interweaving them with bold dark hues- my favourite looks of the collection. Then came the signature hounds tooth print, followed by some extremely unwearable but very beautiful goat hair trim pieces. The stand out piece of the show had to be the Missoni inspired primary colour zig-zag striped cardigan. The long sleeved dress of the same collection was also fabulous, and extremely wearable. These pieces appeal to the young and fashion conscious, as well as those Primrose Hill Yummy Mummies AKA Holland’s neighbours. The introduction of leather into the collection and it’s pairing with the more conventional hound’s-tooth pattern was fresh and exciting. After all, isn’t that what fashion’s all about? Holland reminds with each new collection not only to look unique but also not to take yourself too seriously, something often forgotten in the fashion industry. To summarise the House of Holland AW12 is all about colour, colour, a bit of texture, and some more colour. Holland certainly knows how to brighten up a dreary AW winter day and we love him for it. WRITTEN BY: KATE ERINGER RIGHT PHOTO CREDITS: HOUSEOFHOLLAND.COM

FASHION

TRAWLING THROUGH BRIGHTONS SHOPS This issue Yasmin Centeno is on the prowl for the best local boutiques

CREDIT: VACANTCLOTHING.CO.UK

Any Brightonian knows that if you want to shop, the North Laines are your destination. Indeed it depends on what tickles your fancy, but I always seem to end up in the same shops every time I go there. Of course, there's the guilty pleasure in the form of Cyberdog - the shop that you go in, think a) the outfits are brilliant, but acknowledge that you will never wear them or b) I’m definitely going to dye my hair that UV shade - an idea that is always abandoned once you leave and enter back onto the normal street (and lighting). Then there's To Be Worn Again, two of them to be precise, as well as Beyond Retro, which are the equivalent to rummaging through your once-was hipster grandmother's attic for something that you might want to wear. I seek my attire in the boutique stores. I admit, I do own clothing purchased from the High Street but with concern about by whom and how the clothes are made. I personally think buying clothes from independent, locally owned shops is the way forward. You are, in essence, supporting your local economy as well. On that note, here are my two picks of the best Brighton boutiques:

VACANT

VACANT MENSWEAR

11-12 Trafalgar Street www.vacantclothing.co.uk The shop does look pricey from the front, which could discourage any skint student from the motivation to venture in. However real bargains are to be found. With their discounted winter range, you can grab a casual dress for less than £30. There is also a 10% student discount for all non-discounted items.

BEST FOR: Stand-out men's graphic print tees and wearable dresses

SUGARHILL BOUTIQUE 17 Sydney Street www.sugarhillboutique.com This was one of the first shops I went into when I moved to Brighton last term. As a Fresher, and having lived in Asia for a long time, it was great to see an abundance of beautiful clothes filtering though that I could afford. I found an amazing dress for only £25 in November, discounted from £65. I continue to go into this shop again and again to find more bargains, which is made easy with their £10 or less display at the back.

BEST FOR: Quirky quality pieces and summer sun-dresses

AN ENGLISH GIRL’S GUIDE TO FRENCH STYLE

he French have a reputation for being the epitome of effortless style, and it’s hard to argue. France has produced some of the most wearable fashion brands in the world, which have become fast favourites of the British fashion pack; A.P.C, Isabel Marant, The Kooples, Maje, Comptoir de Cotonniers - all of which ooze the classic laid-back cool en français that so many strive to imitate. And who can blame them? I especially dream of the day I can look thrown-on fantastic without seeming to have barely lifted a finger - an aesthetic that the French women seem to have mastered. Whilst in Paris on a quest for that secret, I picked up a fantastic homage to French style, Parisian Chic: A Style Guide, a collaboration between French model and style icon Inès de la Fressange and Elle journalist Sophie Gachet. The guide, aswell as being a comprehensive directory of fabulous stores, restaurants and hotels in Paris, teaches you how to ‘dress like a Parisian’. De la Fressange contends that every woman’s wardrobe should contain 6 key items; a man’s blazer, a trench coat, a navy sweater, a tank top, a little black dress, a pair of jeans and a leather jacket. Simple, some might say, but it’s what you do with these items that is key to French style.

MAJE AT THE OUTNET.COM £44

H&M MENSWEAR £24.99

The guide pioneers ‘offbeat chic’, in other words wearing classic items in unexpected combinations. De la Fressange also suggests shopping in the menswear department in H&M, scouting surplus stores, and wearing black and navy together a la Yves Saint Laurent. And her golden rule? Don’t over-accessorize. In an interview for The Telegraph in 2011, de la Fressange revealed the secret to French style: 'French women don't want to be trendy. They know what suits them. It's more about style than trends. Women should dress up for themselves, not for showing off but to feel better - and if you feel better, you look better.' Garance Doré, one of my personal favorite fashion writers (and girlfriend of Scott Schuman of The Satorialist) has admirable French style. Her blog has a beautiful collection of Parisian-esque street style photographs, and is the perfect place to get your inspiration for french dressing. It seems less is most certainly more when it comes to getting French style parfait. —MADDY CHAMBERS Garance Doré’s blog can be found at www.garancedore.fr/en

THE KOOPLES £165

COMPTOR DE CONTONNIERS £170

DAKOTA FANNING—OH LOLA!

CREDIT: BANGSTYLE.COM

FASHION

It is an issue forever present in the fashion industry, occasionally reignited by a new controversy that draws in public interest and often, criticism. The debate revolves around the physical and mental well being of models under the age of sixteen, particularly reflecting the anxiety of eating disorders or body image issues and also the increased sexualisation of younger girls in our society. The most recent to add fuel to the fire is designer Marc Jacobs, having cast two fourteen year old girls to walk the runway of his autumn/winter 2012-13 show, disregarding the overall industry consensus to refrain from using underage models on the catwalk. “I do the show the way I think it should be and not the way somebody tells me it should be,” he said. “If their parents are willing to let them do a show, I don’t see any reason that it should be me that tells them they can’t.” This controversial stance has again raised concerns over the involvement of young children in the world of fashion; a high pressure, fast paced and a quite often unhealthy environment. The decision follows in the wake of the publication of the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) model health guidelines which includes the recommendation of checking IDs to ensure potential models are sixteen or over. Although these remain merely guidelines and are not mandatory or enforced by law, movements in the UK with similar aims are emerging, one of the most prominent being the campaign by a group of female MPs. Led by Liberal Democrat Jo Swinton, they are calling for the creation of new laws for the protection of child models, limiting their working hours, providing compulsory food and water on jobs, and ensuring chaperoned travel for those that require it, things that many of us would assume are a certainty when employing children. Jacobs, when questioned by the New York Times about his show, likened the use of underage models to that of child actors; “There are children actors and children models for catalogues and stuff so I guess if a parent thinks it’s okay and

a kid wants to do it, it’s fine.” However unlike teenage models, young actors already have these basic workplace protections in place affording them a sense of security that the girls thrown into the heart of the intimidating fashion industry do not have. In fact, this campaign was initiated in response to young models, some as young as thirteen, that have spoken out about the conditions they are often expected to work in. Having nothing that distinguishes minors from experienced models also means that there is nothing to prevent designers from paying underage models with clothes or ‘trade’ as there is no established minimum wage. It may not be illegal but the thought of children working long unsupervised hours with no guarantee of financial compensation can unsettle the conscience of even the most dedicated fashion followers. In a business that centres itself around the ideals of beauty, glamour and youth it is unsurprising that age limits are increasingly difficult to maintain. Fashion dominates a huge part of our society, it penetrates most aspects of everyday life and regards natural beauty and youth as something to revere, and similarly, inclusion into the fashion world is something frequently seen as aspirational by younger generations. This emphasis on youth is in no way a new phenomenon - a substantial amount of successful models can date their careers back to their teens; Kate Moss the pioneer of ‘heroin chic’ was discovered at age fourteen, whilst Naomi Campbell had already appeared on the cover of British Elle by her sixteenth birthday. Twenty years on and teenage girls remain a fundamental part of the fashion and modelling fields, and yet campaigns still have the potential to trigger a wave of public outrage. A perfume advert featuring seventeen year old actress Dakota Fanning in 2011 was banned on the grounds that the teenager although over sixteen, appeared younger than her years, posing provocatively, promoting the sexualisation of a child. Diane

FASHION

Von Furstenberg upon mistakenly hiring a fifteen year old for her autumn/winter 2011-12 show, was under pressure to publicly apologise and denounce the deliberate use of underage girls in any fashion show. On an individual level, success at a young age has repeatedly been plagued by personal distress, and in recent years there has been an influx of high-profile models attempting to raise awareness about the stresses that teenage models are subject to. Plus size model Crystal Renn is an example of someone who draws on her own personal experiences as a child model, told to lose weight and fit a series of unrealistic standards, and eventually resulting in the development of a severe eating disorder, she uses them to try and protect young girls against the darker aspects of the modelling industry. A high profile organisation, created by supermodel Erin O’Connor, named The Model Sanctuary, has proved beneficial in protecting and providing support for underage models. A nonprofit organisation, it is a respite center specifically for models, that aims to support girls in their “most vulnerable years” giving them access to nutritionists, physiotherapists, psychologists and advisers. Efforts like this begin to show that the dangers of including under sixteen year olds are appreciated by a large majority of the fashion world, and that action is being taken to offer as much protection as possible.

Despite this, the problem still exists and there are those in the industry that are more reluctant to embrace the need for regulation, in particular modeling agencies that sign a large quantity of under-sixteen year old girls to their books. The most prominent protesters against allegations that the fashion industry mistreats child models are prestige agencies Premier and Storm Model Managements, who have represented the likes of Christy Turlington and Lily Cole. They affirm that the underage models they have are treated with care and caution, and not sent to any jobs that they are not experienced enough to handle. Carol White, founder of Premier says “Usually an

MARC JACOBS

CREDIT: VOGUE.IT

under-sixteen is basically an apprentice to modelling, we as agents council them in what to expect.” Yet in the face of these assurances, there is no denying that some models from the age of thirteen and up are still being booked for shoots and catwalks that place them out of their comfort zone and are left to cope alone. Even more worrying however is that their own agency is usually where girls seem to experience the most negativity, whether it be in terms of harsh criticism about weight, or being left virtually alone in new and foreign surroundings when working. Although it is difficult to envisage the fashion industry ever completely eradicating child models, the endurance of the debate suggests that rather than becoming desensitised to the issue, our society is realising that precautions must be taken. It may be highly prized in the modelling world, but youth is also something that requires delicate handling for fear of breakage, something that happens all too easily to a child immersed in the spectacle of fashion.

DESIGN. WRITE. REPORT. PHOTOGRAPH.

INTERESTED? WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/GROUPS/SUSSEXFASHIONSOCIETY

JEREMY SCOTT CREDIT: WASHINGTONPOST.COM

FASHION

GONE ARE THE DAYSOF FOLLOWINGFASHIONS RULES NOW IS THE TIME TO MAKE YOUR OWN TRENDS EXPRESSINGYOUR STYLE ANDPERSONALITY. ISABELLA SILVERS LOOKSINTO THIS NEWFOUND FASHION FREEDOM The fashion editor was once a great dictator of trends. She could proclaim the new colours, cuts and styles to be worn that season by looking only at established designers, starting trends with a snap of her manicured fingers. After a month spent in minimalist New York, wild-child London, sensual Milan and chic Paris, key trends revealed themselves as catwalk collations in fashion magazines where women saw them as sartorial rules. But the times they are changing; can the same be said today, or has fashion moved on from trend? The past few decades have seen significant shifts in the fashion industry, including a dramatic departure from devotion to seasonal trends. Modern day icons are now famed for their strong sense of personal style and individuality rather than an addict-like adherence to trends. The explosion of street style and social media has further led to a new set of fashionable females who live by their own rules, taking inspiration from the physical and online world around them in order to be a creative, not a copy-cat. The fashion industry has flipped, and in a world where designers take their inspiration from the street instead of vice versa, can we safely say trend is dead? It has long been the case that those heralded as style icons were more likely to be termed trend setters than followers. Take Coco Chanel and her promotion of masculine designs, Christian Dior’s New Look or Audrey Hepburn’s gamine glamour. To this day they are style superstars, having subverted the trends of their time to start new ones. They proved that sticking to popular fashion trends wasn’t the only way to be revered for their look. The same can be seen in 2012, where Amy Winehouse, Florence Welch, Daisy Lowe, Lady Gaga, the Olsen twins and Alexa Chung, who has recently been titled British Fashion Council Young Style Ambassador, are just a few

names who have experienced national and international acclaim for their style. With little in common but their individuality, many of this style set claim the look isn’t laboured, but instinctive. As Canadian model Shalom Harlow puts it, “you don’t learn style from watching people on a runway. Fashion happens every morning when you wake up”. While it can be argued that these women have inspired sweeping fashion trends, the key difference between 2012 and years gone by is that the trends set have only been adopted by those who were of the same sartorial persuasion in the first place. Women no longer feel compelled to adopt every single trend in order to be socially accepted, instead only taking on the styles that work for

YOU DON’T LEARN STYLE FROM WATCHING PEOPLE ON A RUNWAY. FASHION HAPPENS EVERY MORNING WHEN YOU WAKE UP them. Louis Vuitton’s spring/ summer ’12 sugarplum lace would jar on a rock’n’roller like Alison Mosshart, while Meadham Kirchhoff’s crazy cool caricature collection would seem faintly ridiculous on Kate Middleton. Women have begun to realise that fashion isn’t about rules and box ticking, but self-expression and personality. Trends now create an extension of the self rather than a whole new persona. One of the driving forces against trend addiction, the rise of social media, and particularly microblogging sites like Tumblr and Pinterest, has allowed the fash pack to blog,

FASHION Tweet, Facebook and Lookbook their personal style ideas to millions of fashion fans worldwide. Whether it is an outfit post, an interesting image, assessments of particular looks or city-specific street style, the ability to publicise your musings to millions has led to a new ‘collective fashion consciousness’. Those who may once have been judged too out-there gain cult followings, becoming internet phenomena that take the fashion world by storm. Fifteen year old Tavi Gevinson of Style Rookie broke the mould with her quirky mix of oversize eighties hair bows, Granny chic cardigans and penchant for mixing prints, while Susie Bubble (of Style Bubble) has reintroduced the sweet to chic. Trend is secondary, if that, to individual taste. With their varied inspirations, from films and music to art and culture, the internet allows us to delve into their worlds and get turned on to a way of thinking about fashion Vogue may have turned off. Websites like The Coveteur and Into The Gloss give readers a behind-the-scenes peek at what today’s tastemakers have in their wardrobes and bathroom cabinets, focusing on quirky pieces and personal favourites rather than just designer brands.

IT IS NO LONGER

ABOUT WHAT YOU WEAR, BUT INSTEAD ABOUT HOW YOU WEAR IT It is no longer about what you wear, but instead about how you wear it. Street style blogs like The Sartorialist, Jak and Jil and Facehunter have pushed street style to the forefront of fashion, focusing on outfits rather than individual pieces. These style stalkers don’t look for models and editors who hit current season trends, but for those who create interesting visual looks, making the items their own. Designer is now mixed with high street and vintage finds, topped up with pieces found on global travels and DIY designs. As Dylan Jones, editor or British GQ, rightly pointed out, “these days everyone mixes the new with the old, if they've got any sense, that is". Now that fashion shows are live streamed, tweeted and blogged, with images uploaded to style.com the very

JEREMY SCOTT CREDIT: WASHINGTONPOST.COM

next day, the myth that fashion week is a trade event seems outdated. When you can purchase an item straight from the catwalk, the job of editors and buyers shifts from telling you what you will be wearing next season to waiting for you to tell them you want to see in their magazines and on their websites. No longer do women have to wait and be instructed, the entire fashion world is at our fingertips and we have to power to choose our own personal trends. Society now embraces and positively praises individual style, creating a sort of trend out of the anti-trend. So go against the grain this season; be yourself. It’s about time.

ISABELLA SILVERS

FASHION

SURVEYING THE STREETS OF BRIGHTON, ONE CAN BE SURE TO COME ACROSS SOME VERY SEXY AND VOGUEISH TWOSOMES. I CAUGHT UP WITH SOME OF THE MOST STYLIST COUPLES IN THE TOWN ON MUSIC, FIRST IMPRESSIONS AND FASHIONâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;HOLLY ROSE.

"I met Django at a mutual friend's party and things kind of just escalated from there..." "If I were to choose one song that encapsulates my relationship with Oisin it would be Nouvelle Vague's version of Bizarre Love Triangle (originally by New Order)."

"One of the nicest things Lewis ever did for me was when he bought an old 1960's Phillips bicycle and did it up especially for me. Its baby blue with white handlebars - I love it because he spent so much time on it, and it's one of a kind." "I love Sara's style and she always looks fantastic. I love how she wears vintage styled clothes with quirky inputs of colour or accessories."

"The first thing that attracted me to Josh was his intelligence, and it helped that he dresses very well; smart but with a sense of fun. He doesn't take life or fashion too seriously." "I don't mind Lottie borrowing my clothes one bit, unless I wanted to wear something in particular - then we have a problem! We do have some items of clothing that we share, which makes shopping a more pleasurable and fun experience."

FASHION

JACKET: VINTAGE SHIRT: OBEY SHOES: VANS BAG: SHOP IN THE LANES

ON THE PROMENADE COAT: TOPSHOP SHOES: TOPSHOP SHIRT: ALL SAINTS NECKLACE: ALL SAINTS

COAT: CHARITY SHOP TOP: H&M TROUSERS: ASOS SHOES: CREEPERS

TOP: ZIPPER (AMSTERDAM) SHORTS: URBAN OUTFITTERS SHOES: CONVERSE BAG: URBAN OUTFITTERS

SHIRT: MY BOYFRIEND'S JEANS: TOPSHOP SHOES: DR MARTEN'S BELT: CHARITY SHOP

PHOTOGRAPHY & INTERVIEWS BY HARRIET HEAVEN

THE BLACK SQUARE BY KASIMIR MALEVICH BECAME THE SYMBOL OF ANTI-COMMUNISM IN RUSSIA IN THE 20TH CENTURY, BUT NOW IN 2012, WHAT DOES THE SQUARE, THE TRIANGLE AND THE CIRCLE In 1915, a movement lead by the artist Kazimir Malevich known as Suprematism became the symbol of a rebellion against the Stalinist valuesthat halted the Russian avantgarde. Focusing on geometric forms such asthe square, circle and triangle, Malevich was able to create paintings thatwere symbols of Russian culture.

cle, triangle and square. The inspiration for these designs direct us back to the very beginnings of civilization. However, the combination of shape along with sharp edges and accurate stripes, create a futuristic visage. CREDIT: VOGUE

CREDIT: VOGUE

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN S/S 12

HENRIK VIBSKOV S/S 12

To fastrack to 2012, we see the same geometric depictions vibrantly glaring us in the face from the catwalk. To name drop a few, we saw designers such as Vibskov and McQueen returning to the geometric forms of the square, circle and triangle and reviving them on the catwalk this summer. The simplistic yet symbolic depictions of form that Malevich imported into his art, have been thrust into men’s summer collections. From boxy cuts to geometric prints, simplistic stripes to angular pockets, geometrically inspired clothing is on trend.

“

THE SQUARE IS NOT A SUBCONSCIOUS FORM. IT IS THE CREATION OF INTUITIVE REASON. THE FACE OF THE NEW ART. THE SQUARE IS A LIVING, REGAL INFANT. THE FIRST STEP OF PURE CREATION IN ART.— KASIMIR MALEVICH

”

Fashion is constantly evolving, questioning and challenging the status quo – radically thinking, re-envisioning and risk-taking. Malevich did just this. The square, the triangle and the circle are symbols of the wider picture, a rebellion of the masses, a metaphor for the lone drummer. But what underlies that interpretation is the simplicity of the semantics, a subtle hint. Trends like ‘Aztec’ which high street brands such as Topman and online retailers ASOS have championed, all embody the primitive geometric combinations of cir-

Yet, it is the timelessness of symbols that means that we see these shapes throughout history. Christianity adopted the cross as a symbol of Jesus’s crucifixion, Judaism became depicted by the Star of David and the circle and star are synonymous with Paganism. A shape is not just a shape. Like the Star of David, the shape is the portal to the larger meaning. It is not the geometric form that is important, but like Malevich, but the pragmatics of the form. It seems that this summer, the catwalk has drummed up its own rebellion, a re-assessment of the ‘outside of the box’ values that fashion has long become associated with, a conscious revival of the limitless ideologies of designers such as Westwood and Van Beirendonck.

ASOS NECKLACE £6 ASOS

FORGOTTEN FUTURE T £140 ASOS

HORACE SWEAT £92

LENNONS GLASSES £80 LE SPECS

HUMOR TRUNKS £15 ASOS

B-STORE SWEAT £145 CROSS T £9.99 ENDLESSGUESTLIST.COM

SWIM SHORTS £25 RIVER ISLAND

FISHEYE CAMERA £45 LOMOGRAPHY PHOTOS TAKEN FROM RESPECTIVE SITES

SHORTS, £ 35, TOPSHOP

Splash’, 1984

TOP, £28 RIVER ISLAND NECKLACE, £285 HANNAHWARNER.COM SKIRT, £55 TOPSHOP NAILS;‘MERMAID’, ‘ICE CRUSH’, ‘HIDDEN TREASURE’, £6 TOPSHOP

SHOES, £30 RIVER ISLAND

BAG, £38 TOPSHOP

JUMPER, £195 ALL SAINTS

BIKINI TOP & BOTTOM £35 EACH

Giles, S/S ‘12

PHOTOS TAKEN FROM RESPECTIVE SITES

BEAUTY

vant-garde is a term usually associated with hair; where everything goes and nothing can be big enough. Finally this fabulous trend has floated over to the make-up artists creating the SS12 trends that called for a little revolution.

Fendi paid homage to Cleopatra by applying stunning gold and silver leaf to eyes, finishing the look with a solid sweep of black eyeliner. The contrast between the crackled gold leaf and sleek black eyeliner makes this look a definite highlight. Givenchy (although far less pompous) marvelled with their equally creative use of sequins; cutting them in half and placing them above and below the eye lid. At the Richard Nicoll show, a perfectly sliced piece of black surgical tape replaced liquid eye-liner, coming up with a foolproof alternative to messy smudges. Ideas for this trend are endless. Inspirations range from Geisha girls to One Thousand and One Nights, Rio Carnival to the Mardi Gras Festival, and Andy Warhol to Piet Mondrian.

GIVENCHY

RICHARD NICHOLL

FENDI CREDIT: VOGUE.COM

Touching Base

Spring beauty trends are set to be flourishing with fresh, glowing skin and for 2012 it’s all about cutting-edge BB creams. Promenade brings you the guide to finding your perfect match. Words: Hannah Crump

BB creams (otherwise known as blemish balms) have been at the centre of the beauty stage in Korea for years, but this season sees the European launch of the miracle formulas by industry giants.

erage of foundation with the caring benefits of skin serums, the magical elixirs promise added benefits of SPF protection, hydration, illumination and even claim to improve the quality of skin tone with frequent use.

From Diorshow’s UV Shield to MAC’s Prep & Prime Beauty Balm, spring summer will give beauty-addicts more choice than ever. So what makes these innovative products stand out in beauty’s generation of skinperfecting products?

Natural-looking, luminous and free from the guilt of damaging the skin, BB hybrids cut down our make-up items and preparation time. Yet with the advent of numerous product launches and increasing diversity in prices, the BB market can prove difficult to navigate. Promenade touches base with BB favourites to investigate their almost-too-good-to-be-true beauty promises...

Much more than your average foundation, BB creams pledge a multitude of benefits. Merging the flawless cov-

Garnier Miracle Skin Perfector SPF 15 (£9.99)

Beauty claim: Using vitamin C to even skin tone, unify complexion & boost glow Pros: Hydrating formula works almost like a moisturiser while blurring blemishes and diminishing redness. Offers the best glow. Cons: Blemish coverage lacks staying power meaning it is best used alongside a foundation.

Verdict:

8/10 – a smooth, silky

product; perfect as an illuminating primer.

No7 Beautiful skin SPF 15 (£12.95)

Beauty claim: Skin nutrition for a healthy complexion and prevention of blemishes for a bare make-up look Pros: Tailored to your skin with options available for skin type (oily/dry), as well as colour (light/medium). Also hypo-allergenic for sensitive skin. Cons: The regulation of oil production in the oily version reduces illumination power making the skin more matte than anticipated. Verdict:

7/10 – energising while spe-

cialising in your skin needs. The best for troubled-skin.

Estée Lauder DayWear SPF 35 (£32.00)

Beauty claim: Anti-oxidant protection for a moisturised and flawless complexion with surface oil-control

Pros: Highest SPF protection, light texture offers full coverage and illumination without compromise. Smells and feels fresh with great staying power. Cons: The price! Only a small amount of product is needed but perhaps not an ideal commitment for BB virgins.

Verdict: CREDITS [IN ORDER] TELEGRAPH, BEAUT.IE, BEAUTYEDITOR.CA

9/10 – Best overall benefits but due to the hefty

price tag I recommend primarily to die-hard BB users.

PUTTING THE MAN IN MANICURES

How would you feel if your boyfriend started wearing nail varnish? Promenade investigates. Words, Lily Edwards; Illustration: Charlotte Harding

Male beauty products have been on the market for a while now, with leading brands selling foundation and eyebrow pencils aimed specifically at men. So it comes as no surprise that these brands have also begun to recognise the increasing amount of men wearing nail varnish, creating ‘male varnish’ for guys who like to pamper themselves; Jonny Depp, Becks and Zac Efron to name but a few. Recently, EvolutionMan released 5 different shades of male varnish ranging from au natural to more daring colours named ‘stand out’ and ‘alter ego’. Many are wondering what the point is. Surely male varnish is the same as the nail varnish designed for women? And it is. But through branding it specifically towards men, male varnish transforms a conventionally female product into a masculinised version; thereby reducing the potential stigma associated with using it. But why should men feel ashamed for wearing it? Celebrity hair and make-up artist Marco Berardini points out, ‘If you’re wearing a Rolex with chewed, scraggly nails, it’s a contradiction of sorts’. There shouldn’t be anything wrong with men taking care of their appearances and styling themselves the way they want. So gentlemen, nail it!

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