6 minute read
THE SCIENCE OF SPIRITS
WHY addwater to whiskey?
By George Manska, CSO, CR&D, Arsilica, Inc., sensory researcher, inventor, entrepreneur
Many spirits drinkers make a big production out of adding water to their whiskey and comment that adding a little water “opens up” spirit aromas. It’s not true, never will be, and here’s why.
THE SCIENCE OF SPIRITS
Enemy Ethanol
We enjoy spirits for the relaxing effect of ethanol (alcohol), yet for dedicated spirits lovers, airborne ethanol detracts from true aroma perception. Ethanol is the most volatile compound in finished spirits. Leave a neat pour overnight, and taste the next morning. Less liquid with excellent trace aromas of spirit remains, but no ethanol, as it evaporated much quicker than water. Ethanol has the lowest mass, most abundant, highest vapor pressure, lowest boiling point, and lowest surface tension of any spirit component. That is volatility.
When water is added to whiskey, reduced ethanol pungency creates the false impression of “opening up.” Water increases surface tension and reduces all aromas by preventing more aroma molecules from breaking the liquid surface and evaporating. Unseen surface tension is the reason a water bug walks on the water surface. If surface tension keeps a bug from drowning, it can also prevent tiny, lower mass aroma molecules from breaking the surface and evaporating. No evaporation = no smell. Aroma perceptions from tulips are made drastically weaker with only a few water drops.
Scientific research proves that ethanol:
• Raises olfactory detection thresholds (hinders aroma detectability). • Olfactory fatigue can be caused by over-abundant ethanol (sometimes referred to as ethanol anesthesia). • Disrupts calcium ion(+) flow, suppresses cyclic nucleotide-gated channels, delays electrical impulse firing, binds to many receptors leaving fewer to bind to aromas (science-speak for ethanol adversely
affects smell-ability).
• Pungency distracts and hinders aroma identification, alters finish, and masks subtle character aromas.
Origin of the “Water Opens Up” Myth
For sixty years scotch producers have promoted tulips to create a glass icon specific to their spirit (marketing genius). Tulips, adopted from the sherry trade, are tiny-rimmed glasses designed for 18-22% ABV (alcohol by volume) fortified wines. Drinking 40% ABV spirits in tulips creates a pungent nose-bomb of concentrated ethanol triggering the above effects. Using tulips ignores ethanol effects and initiated a scramble to find ways to alleviate disgusting pungency, including adding water, breathing through mouth and nose simultaneously to lessen intake, and acclimation
by wafting. Techniques may delay initial pungency, but ethanol remains. Much less ethanol reaches the nose in open, wide-rim glasses; tulips concentrate ethanol at the nose. Try side-by-side comparisons.
The Blenders’ Solution
Scotch blenders are more marketing experts than scientists and are dedicated to the tulip as a blending tool. They freely admit the ethanol problem and discovered that diluting samples to 20-23%ABV saves noses for longer blending sessions. The water needed to dilute cask strength (43-60% ABV) whisky to 20% ethanol is greater than 1-part water to 1-part whiskey. Add 1 1/8 to 1¼ ounce of water to 1 ounce of cask strength whisky. Scientific research proves that dilution to these low ABV levels radically alters the olfactory profile and flavor expression. No one we know drinks whisky with that much water.
Consumer Adoration
Most water adders use only a few drops, yet in the search for perfection, in good faith, they adopted the experts (blenders) tulip glass without regard to usage. Emulating experts makes sense only if; (1) both tools and usage are adopted simultaneously and (2) if they are both effective. In this case, the experts need to consider science.
Eliminate the Problem
The most effective solution to combat ethanol effects is to use wide-rim glasses that disperse ethanol, such as tumblers, cocktail glasses, or the NEAT glass, designed to direct ethanol away from the nose. Tulips are the fraternal, iconic credential badge of straight spirits drinkers. Most unconsciously place their need for fraternal identification far ahead of their desire to understand their favorite spirit’s nuances. Spirits are naturally diluted by saliva, and retro-nasal aromas are the major component of “finish.” Ortho-nasally sniffed ethanol affects both ortho- and retro-nasal (finish) perceptions.
Water Source is Important
Two water characteristics are of major importance to mouthfeel and overall perception; (1) pH measure of acidity, and (2) mineral ion traces (Ca, Fe, Mg, and others). Some enthusiasts purchase water from specific distilleries to add to their whiskey with special water droppers.
Many spirits critics/authors lump spirits by geography assigning area-characteristic “traits” (e.g.) Speyside scotch whisky water sources vary widely in minerality and pH all along the 107 miles of River Spey. Many area water sources are rivers, tributaries, and underground springs upstream or unconnected to the namesake river. Each distillery has a unique still design, methods, grain, and yeast sources, all of which affect the final product taste perception. Assigning traits to geographical boundaries is a futile and misleading exercise that, in the end, severely disadvantages many great distilleries.
Only Two Reasons to Add Water
(1) “I like it that way,” and (2) uncomfortable palate burn. If you like it that way, at least now you know the true science. For palate burn, smell the whiskey, savor aromas, and take notes before you dilute.
Discarding tulips “opens up” whiskey:
Ethanol can cause aroma misidentification and hide subtle aromas. Remove it from the nose with an open vessel for accurate aroma profile perception. Adding water only helps with tulips. Getting rid of concentrated ethanol is key to better ortho-nasal and retro-nasal aroma perception. The science that opposes long-standing tradition inevitably sparks controversial discussion, so know when to pick your battles
George F Manska
Chief of Research and Development, Arsilica, Inc., engineer, inventor of the NEAT glass, and sensory science researcher.
Mission: Replace misinformation with scientific truth through consumer education.
Contact Information: Phone: 702.332.7305 Email: george@arsilica.com Business mailing address: 452 Silverado Ranch Blvd, Ste #222, Las Vegas, NV, 89183.
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