IN THE KITCHEN: The

The Spice of Life

Chef and restaurateur Sanjiv Dhar dishes on his journey to bring Indian flavors to Rhode Island

Before Sanjiv Dhar was the restaurateur behind Providence’s longest-running Indian restaurant, Kabob and Curry, his earliest culinary influence may have been serving as sous chef to his grandfather in Calcutta, India, where he grew up.

Dhar left home to study Culinary and Hotel Management at the Institute of Tourism and Hotel Management in Salzburg, Austria, where he found time to learn German and French. He met his wife and partner Vandana, who studied hotel and catering management in Mumbai, while they both worked at the 5-star Le Méridien New Delhi.

Eventually, Dhar made his way to Johnson & Wales for master’s level study and, after graduation, did a stint at Marriott Marquis in Times Square. While at the Marriott, Dhar was o ered a working partnership at what was then a flagging Kabob and Curry. “Since I had always wanted to own my own business, I took up the challenge,” Dhar recounts.

Where his Providence location has evolved to feature street foods, Rasa in East Greenwich is “all about aesthetic flavor,” says Dhar, by celebrating the beauty inherent in all Indian cuisines. They put a unique twist on cocktails by experimenting with infusions that highlight the same fresh herbs and deep spices that appear in the dishes.

Those who have experienced all varieties of Indian cuisine are familiar with the practice of blooming spices, either by heating them in a dry pan or frying them in oil or ghee, a clarified butter. “We are always trying to evolve,” says Dhar, “and at Rasa we are using a fresh tempering method to add more flavor to your meal. For example, finishing a dish with fresh curry leaf or mustard seeds adds that essence.”

Despite so much variety already o ered by Dhar’s restaurants – which also include Rasoi in Pawtucket and, most recently, Chaska in Garden City – he assures diners there are still new dishes to explore.

“I enjoy cooking Kashmiri cuisine because I grew up eating that at home. It’s totally di erent from what everyone is used to.” Known for being more meat-centric than the cuisines of other regions of India, Kashmiri dishes are rich in flavor but milder in spice. Dry spices serve as the building blocks of sauces, rather than onion or coconut, and a unique warmth is achieved by using an abundance of “hot” spices like cinnamon, cardamom, clove, and ginger. Even those who have frequented Dhar’s restaurants for many years can look forward to ever evolving menus. “I hope I can one day introduce Rhode Islanders to this region of India.”

When asked what he loves most about the food of his home, Dhar was very clear. “The beauty of Indian cuisine is in its diverse spices,” he says. “The tempering of a dish is very scientific, and every region is passionate about its style. A simple curry dish may change because someone decided to add one less or one extra spice, but the results are still delicious. So why not expand the palate?”

It’s not only Rhode Islanders’ palates that are expanding, but also Dhar’s experiences. He’s conducted cooking demos on YouTube and The Rhode Show, held teaching sessions at both Brown and Harvard, and spoke at TED Talks in Providence.

When asked his favorite restaurant memory from his time in Rhode Island, Dhar had no trouble choosing one.

“One day one of my chefs said, ‘Sir, when you’re tense it shows up on your face and we all get worried and nervous. On the other hand, if you are smiling, we feel great.’ Since then, I’ve made a conscious e ort to put a smile on as soon as I enter the restaurant. Ultimately, it’s my job to coach them with a smile and give them a place where they, too, can smile and be happy. Everyone should be happy in our restaurants – employees and guests alike!”