IN THE KITCHEN: Two

Sibling Revelry

The brothers behind Brother & Moffat bring an immersive food experience to catering

By Karen Greco

When David and Tiago Gomes arrived in Rhode Island from their native Portugal in 2004, they got their first taste of the culinary world as dishwashers at an Italian restaurant in Providence. “We were living the American dream, you know. Big pizzas, rap music, cool sneakers,” says David. This is when the close-knit brothers – who are six years apart – began working together.

“I wanted to impress a girl, so I would ask the chef, how do you make this? What do you do with that?” David says. The chef, impressed by their curiosity, began to give them small prep jobs in the kitchen. As they learned, they took on responsibility and “we just evolved from there.”

The restaurant grind, with its long hours and lack of benefits, began to wear on them and their young families. So they transitioned to cooking in a healthcare environment, working at an upscale retirement home. “We got benefits,” says David, who took Tiago with him to the new gig.

A death in the family led to a fortuitous circumstance. David offered to make a soup for the family while they were in mourning, which led to a request for him to cook for the repast. At the end of the day, a family member handed him an unexpected envelope of money. When the shock wore off, he immediately called his younger sibling about opening up their own catering business. “I always loop my brother in,” he explains. “He’s the pragmatic one.”

“We had jobs,” says Tiago. “I said, we don’t need it.”

“We grew up very poor,” David explains. “We didn’t have access to things; we saw my dad struggling. When you grow up like that, just trying to survive, it’s hard to dream. It’s hard to have big goals.”

But David was persistent, seeing the possibilities, so Tiago did the math – “I always look at the logistics,” he says. After a few months, Brother & Moffat was born. David grins. “I was like, let’s dream big. We have a good product. We have that foundation, so let’s do it.”

They set up their commercial kitchen at Sankofa Community Kitchen, a non-profit on the West Side focused on economic development, whose support the entrepreneurs found invaluable. Through word of mouth, their business began to build, going from working a 30-person event to catering a 200-strong backyard wedding.

While Brothers and Moffat are comfortable catering in any location – from white glove to casual – they really shine at outdoor weddings. Their grilled entrees are a big part of their growing following. From octopus to steak to ribs, the duo do more than dish out delicious food; they also offer a unique immersive experience for the guests, setting up their grill in the center of the

Cooking on location, the Gomes brothers offer an immersive experience

IN THE WEEKS LEADING UP TO THE BIG DAY

schedules are packed and nerves frazzled. Outsourcing the cooking can be a great time saver. Brother & Moffat recently added healthfocused meal prep services to their culinary offerings. Their scratchmade meals are cooked fresh, in small batches, and never frozen.

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action. “We cook on location and put on a little show,” says David. “We interact with the guests, explain how we make things. We serve them. When you get our services, you don’t just get the food. You get the chefs.”

Their scratch-made food receives rave reviews. They have invested in little to no marketing to grow their business, relying on happy customers to tell their friends and family. It took them several years to even start an Instagram account, which they did when they branched out into meal prep services.

David recently quit his day job as culinary director at an assisted living facility to focus 100 percent on growing Brother & Moffat. Meanwhile, the cautious Tiago is still holding on to his similar gig for a little bit longer.

“Growing up, we were given a golden ticket to do better, to be better, in the best country in the world,” says David. “You know what? I believe America is the best country in the world.” Instagram: @brotherandmoffat

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Hot Rocks and Lobster Pots

These quintessential Ocean State seafood catering experiences come fresh off the boat

By Abbie Lahmers

If you elect to serve your guests a clambake or lobster boil on the big day, chances are good a few members of your catering team are out on the water while you and your wedding party are getting ready in the morning.

“A traditional old-fashioned clambake process begins early in the day when we send our crews out to pick fresh rockweed, a dark green seaweed that contains bubbles filled with saltwater,” says event and office manager Melissa McGrath of McGrath Clambakes & Catering. She describes the care that goes into building the bonfire with alternating layers of wood and rock, tending the fire to achieve a bed of very hot coals and rocks, and covering the base with mounds of rockweed – all unfolding at your venue while wedding festivities take place.

“The bubbles in the rockweed burst when heated, emitting seawater that steams and seasons the food,” McGrath continues. “At this point, the bakemaster works very quickly to capture as much heat as possible under the canvas.” Racks of food – artfully layered to ensure ideal cooking times and balanced flavoring – are expertly nestled inside and covered with layers of canvas.

The whole process is part of a New England tradition dating back centuries. “A hot rock clambake is a unique experience,” says Lin Patty, event coordinator of Yawgoo Bakes and Barbecues. “Many cultures have some kind of specialized cooking process involving hot rocks. The New England version comes from Native American tribes as far back as 2,000 years.”

For many businesses, it’s a family tradition, too. Now in the hands of third-generation bakemaster T.R. McGrath, McGrath Clambakes has been in business for 53 years, continuing on the tradition of bakes and lobster boils while also expanding to include other catering offerings. Yawgoo Bakes, founded by Pat Murray in 1961, remains a family-operated business to this day with her grandson Andy Patty now a bakemaster.

Howarth Family Lobsters is an extension of Ebben Howarth’s grandparents’ multi-generational lobstering business. “My boyfriend Ebben and I started our company last year with the intention of connecting the Block Island community to local seafood while supporting the small but valuable commercial fishing industry out here,” says co-owner Maddy Murphy. “We are both residents of Block Island and carry a huge amount of respect for the island and its resources.”

In hosting intimate, outdoor lobster boil

experiences, Murphy explains, “Our last stop before we arrive at our client’s home is the boat, where we take the lobsters right out of the water.” Fresh down to the flowers grown nearby at Harvest Moon Florals, the Howarth experience includes boiling 1¼-pound lobsters right on the lawn, served with corn on the cob, potatoes, and a raw bar option with oysters from Great Salt Pond growers.

“A clambake wedding creates a local and casual feel that’s very memorable for guests attending, especially if they have never experienced a clambake,” says McGrath, whose wedding packages are fully customizable. “A lobster baked in a clambake has a very distinct flavor and texture. The slow cooking process is similar to slow cooking a pot roast where the meat falls apart and is very tender and has a bit of a smoky flavor.”

Different bakemasters have different indicators of when the bake is done. Yawgoo Bakes judges by checking a test potato – and once it’s ready, guests can dig into steamers and mussels served with melted butter. Their staff split and cut lobster claws for easier access.

Tradition often dictates the ringing of a bell to open the bake, which McGrath Clambakes upholds. The bell tolls. Guests gather for the unveiling. “The layers of canvas are peeled away,” says McGrath. “Billows of steam rise from the bake, along with a surge of delicious aromas.” Followed by “oohs” and “ahhs,” the feast begins.

OCEAN STATE DETAILS

Give your guests the full Rhody seafood dining experience with ideas from the pros.

LOBSTER INITIATION “A lot of our clients have incorporated a ‘How to eat a lobster’ instruction card as a favor,” says Melissa McGrath. “Others have created pails that include the wet nap, lobster crackers, bibs, etc.”

ISLANDER EXPERIENCE Get a taste of the freshness Howarth Family Lobsters is serving with a visit to the island. “We attend the Saturday farmers market on Block Island where we sell our famous bluefish pate, black sea bass ceviche, live lobsters, and cooked lobster meat. We sell out quick!” Maddy Murphy shares.

GREAT OUTDOORS All of Yawgoo Bakes’ menus can be brought to your location of choice or enjoyed on their sweeping Exeter facility on acres of fields and woods. “We also have two screened-in barn-like buildings allowing groups to enjoy our facility in any weather,” says Lin Patty.

LOCAL BAKES AND BOILS

B&M Catering | Pawtucket ClambakeCo.com

Howarth Family Lobsters | Block Island HowarthFamilyLobsters.com

Kempenaar’s Clambake Club

Middletown, NewportClambakes.com

McGrath Clambakes & Catering

Newport, RIClambake.com Yawgoo Bakes and Barbecues | Exeter YawgooBakes.com magazines?HAVE A PASSION FOR

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