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conte n ts Providence Monthly • July 2016

Natural history is alive and well in Providence

Getting to the bottom of the city’s delicious food truck obsession

This Month 24 Live at the Museum

27 A Movable Feast

Inside the Museum of Natural History and Planetarium

Food trucks have made their mark on the city’s culinary scene

Every Month 6 Editor’s Note

45 Feast

9 Online Exclusives

Hill-worthy Italian cuisine in the suburbs

Photography (L) by Grace Lentini, (R) by James Jones

13 Providence Pulse

46 Review 49 On The Menu 50 In The Kitchen 53 In The Drink 55 Rhody Bites

8-bit goodness on tap at Shelter Arcade Bar

59 Get Out

15 City 20 Scene in PVD

Taking theatre to the Fringe

35 City Style

60 Calendar 63 Music 64 Theatre 67 Art

A preppy, New England look for the whole family 35 At Home 37 The Look 38 Beauty 41 Get Fit

68 Hidden PVD

42 Shop Around

Explore Gracie’s secret rooftop garden

On the Cover: Rocket Fine Street Food. Photography by James Jones. July 2016 | Providence Monthly

PROVIDENCE

EDITOR’S NOTE

MONTHLY

Media Director Jeanette St. Pierre @JeanetteSTP

Creative Director Julie Tremaine @JulieTremaine

Managing Editor Grace Lentini @Gracie_NomNom

Digital Editor Tony Pacitti @TonyPacitti

Gourmet To Go Remember those cold, dark days before the food truck boom? Where once you could only get street food late at night on Broad Street, now you can’t walk a block in Providence without finding some kind of mobile deliciousness. The joy of food trucks isn’t just that you can get Portuguese, or Thai, or Mexican food whenever you’d like. It isn’t just that the city’s lunch game has gone up so much that we now have daily access to Turducken sliders and Parisian burgers. It’s the element of discovery, of seeing where the trucks will pop up on a given day, of seeing who’s innovating what cuisine. There’s something about the mobility of a food truck that gives its owners added freedom to have fun

Publishers Barry Fain Richard Fleischer John Howell

Art Director Meghan H. Follett

with their food. And we’re the lucky beneficiaries of that creativity. You could head outside at this very moment and find something delicious and unexpected from one of the city’s mobile kitchens. But don’t take our word for it: go out and taste for yourself.

Assistant Art Director Katie Leclerc

Advertising Design Director Layheang Meas Graphic Designer Nick DelGiudice

Account Managers Shelley Cavoli: Shelley@ProvidenceOnline.com Louann DiMuccio-Darwich: Louann@ProvidenceOnline.com Ann Gallagher: Ann@ProvidenceOnline.com Kristine Mangan: Kristine@ProvidenceOnline.com Elizabeth Riel: Liz@ProvidenceOnline.com Dan Schwartz: DanS@ProvidenceOnline.com Stephanie Oster Wilmarth: Stephanie@ProvidenceOnline.com

Contributing Photographers Amy Amerantes Stacey Doyle Tiffany Axtman James Jones Ian Travis Barnard Tony Pacitti Mike Braca Brad Smith

Contributor

Contributing Illustrators Lia Marcoux

James Jones Photographer

Contributing Writers Stephanie Obodda @StephanieDoes

Erin Balsa Alastair Cairns

James has been shooting our cover stories for years, and this month he got to chase down some of the tastiest food trucks in the city (page 27). His personal favorite is Citizen Wing (“I love a good wing and they gave me a lot of wings on the shoot.”) and though Providence doesn’t lack for food truck options, James thinks a sushi dog food truck would be a novel addition to the local fleet. And yes, a sushi dog is exactly what it sounds like.

Emily Dietsch

Cristy Raposo @foxywhite03

Claire Flanagan

Charlotte Seley

Amanda Grosvenor Adam Hogue

Jen Senecal @JenSenecal

Molly Lederer

Nicolas Staab

Ali McGowan

John Taraborelli @JohnnyTabs

Interns Marrissa Ballard Abigail Burns Ava Callery Kemill Logarta

Joshua Lu Marisa Petrarca Charlie Woolsey

Members Of:

This Issue By The Numbers

Audited by:

1,200

75 , 41 0

Number of spaces on our food truck checklist (page 30). Share your progress with us on Twitter @PVDMonthly and Instagram @HeyRhody

Square feet of garden space Gracie’s is utilizing on top of the Peerless Building for fresh herbs, vegetables and edible flowers (page 68)

Our Media Director Jeanette St. Pierre’s high score in Ms. Pac Man at Shelter Arcade Bar (page 13)

Facebook.com/PVDMonthly

Providence Monthly | July 2016

@PVDMonthly

@HeyRhody

PRINTED ON RECYCLED PAPER. PAPER CONTAINS 20-25% POST-CONSUMER CONTENT Providence Monthly 1070 Main Street, Suite 302 Pawtucket RI 02860 • Fax: 401-305-3392 www.ProvidenceOnline.com mail@ProvidenceOnline.com @PVDMonthly For advertising rates call: 401-305-3391 We welcome all contributions, but we assume no responsibility for unsolicited material. No portion of this publication can be reproduced in whole or in part without prior written permission. Copyright ©2016 by Providence Monthly, All rights reserved.

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SoMe DaYs, BiG UgLy CaN Be SpOtTeD RoAmInG ArOuNd ThE MaRiNa. To Be ClEaR, BiG UgLy Is ThE CaT.

TOA S T ED L AGER. A MERIC A N S T Y L E A MBER L AGER . B RE WED WI T H A BL EN D OF SIX M A LT S FO R A FL AVO R A S RICH A N D U NIQUE A S T HE TOW N I T ’S FR OM .

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Experience. Integrity. Results.

T h E LOW A N T h E m W E Lc O m E S YO U TO E y E l a n d Five years and one historical theater revival later, The Low Anthem has released Eyeland their highly anticipated new album. We caught up with Ben and Jeff about working on the record, bringing the Columbus Theatre back to life and exploring a bigger world of sound.

Call Gerri Schiffman (401) 474-3733

mOrE OF hIDDEN PVD After you read about Gracie’s rooftop garden (page 68), check out our video at ProvidenceOnline.com to see Chef Matt Varga flex his green thumb.

#1 Agent at Residential Properties Ltd. Since 1996

FO L LOW U S Because we’re awesome on social, too

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DINE WELL Our statewide dining guide will keep you informed and well fed

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July 2016 | Providence Monthly

SUMMER Go to ProvidenceOnline.com for our camp directory

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City / Scene in PVD

rEaDY pLaYEr onE Ah, the chaotic symphony of bleeps, bloops and wak wak waks. The chorus of hadokens, finish hims and frustrated gamers plunking down quarters after being bested, yet again, by their favorite machine. The golden days of video arcades are long behind us, game overed to memory, but for those who think they do their best gaming standing up, considerÂ Shelter Arcade BarÂ your extra life.

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Providence Monthly | July 2016

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pulse pulse

city

Continued From Page 13

8-Bit Blast From the Past Shelter Arcade Bar brings back old school gaming

Photography by (Top) Tony Pacitti; Photo Courtesy of Gunther von Hagens’ BODY WORLDS, Institute for Plastination, Heidelberg, Germany, www.bodyworlds.com

for gamers who are only just coming of drinking age and may not have had the opportunity to spend much time in the arcades of yore, Shelter Arcade Bar owner Mike Maven recommends starting with Revolution X, which is the Aerosmith-themed remake of the Terminator 2 game, complete with a machine gun that shoots CDs at oppressive, antimusic forces (it really doesn’t get much more early ‘90s than that). Other old school favorites include Donkey Kong, Ms. Pac Man and The Addams Family pinball machine. If you’re looking to get your team-up fix, Mike’s pretty proud of the four-player X-Men cabinet, and before you ask, yes, he has Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles. Cowabunga at will. The games are the draw, but they aren’t going to keep the lights on, especially since Mike is committed to keeping the

arcade and pinball games at just one quarter and two respectively. “We’ll keep it cheap,” he says. “I want it to be a hangout place.” To pay the bills, Shelter will have craft beers on tap and in bottles, as well as game inspired cocktails (ex: the Donkey Kong cocktail is barrel aged whiskey, peach bitters and Italian vermouth) and personal pizzas, a menu which he’s geekily dubbed Potions and Power Ups. Arcade bars have been popping up all over the place and it’s hard not to get excited about Providence having one to call its own. There’s just something about playing a game in an arcade – the sounds, the stress when someone puts their quarter on the machine to call next game, joysticks and buttons slick with pizza grease – that you just can’t get from playing your PS4 at home. 111 Dike Street, ShelterArcadeBar.com –Tony Pacitti

Anatomy as Art

Local Beach Reads

Curl Up With A Season For Fireﬂies Who doesn’t enjoy a little magic in a love story? Rhode Island author Rebecca Maizel has proven to be an expert on this from her several novels for young adults, including her acclaimed Vampire Queen series. According to Kirkus, Between Us and the Moon was “what first love is meant to be” and a “satisfying summer read.” Just in time for summer comes A Season For Fireﬂies. Penny Berne was starring in plays, loved by her theatre friends and falling for her best friend Wes. It all seems perfect, except at home she deals with her mom’s mental illness and alcoholism. She ends up pushing away everything and everyone she loves in exchange for the popular crowd. She gets struck by lightning and is left with no recollection of how she went from drama queen to mean girl. As she pieces memories together, she finds who she really is. Moved by the magical simplicity of fireflies, the author delivers a heartwarming novel about friendship, love and second chances. In hopes that

Owner Mike Maven (right) has turned a passion for pinball into PVD’s first arcade bar

her readers will find some solace in Penny’s journey, she takes us through a teen’s transition through adolescence and the search for self-identity. Available at Books on the Square. –Kemill Logarta

Body Worlds Makes its Providence Debut Body Worlds vital is an immersive, multimedia experience that celebrates the potential of the human body while promoting healthy lifestyle changes. The exhibition – on display at the Providence Museum Gallery at The Rhode Island Convention Center from June 30 through January – features real human bodies, including 200 specimens and 13 complete plastinated bodies, which stem primarily from a body donation program managed by the Institute for Plastination with a roster of more than 14,000 donors. The bodies on display are preserved through the groundbreaking science of plastination invented by Dr. Gunther von Hagens. Bodily fluids and fat are extracted then replaced with plastic, allowing visitors to see the inside of the human body up close and personal, and learn how their bodies work. The bodies are examined through displays of distress and disease, while offering inspirational insights

about the body’s virtuosity and resilience. Visitors will see first-hand how lifestyle choices affect their bodies with side-by-side comparisons of healthy organs to lungs diseased from smoking and a liver damaged by alcoholism. One Sabin Street. 844-253-4840, BodyWorldsRI.com. –Abby Burns

July 2016 | Providence Monthly

pulse Book Club

A Local Debut Novel channels Beyoncé’s Wisdom A great philosopher once said, “If you liked it then you should have put a ring on it.” But what if the you in question is, well, yourself? That’s the central question of Dawn Keable’s debut novel Settling Down. Dayna Morrison is 33, smart, successful and – you see where we’re going here – unlucky in love. So she decides to take things into her own hands, literally. Instead of waiting for Mr. Right to give her a ring, she buys one for herself, as a birthday gift. As you can imagine, social scandal and hilarity ensue. The reasons to like this book are numerous, and not just because Dawn Keable is a former PM writer who just so happened to set her book at a magazine in Rhode Island. It’s funny, for one. Really funny. And a lot smarter than a lot of other “chick lit” books that all get grouped together in an unfairly negative way. Dawn has a quick-witted, engaging style that’s easy to move through, on the beach or no. And re-

ally, what’s not to love about a book that’s first line is “Sometimes in life, it’s just better to be drunk”? Find her book on Amazon and at WriteOnGrrrl.com -Julie Tremaine

On the Brink

The population of New England’s only native rattlesnake currently hovers around 200 in Massachusetts and for Lou Perrotti, director of conservation programs at Roger Williams Park Zoo, that’s unacceptable. In an effort to preserve the population, the zoo is breeding timber rattlesnakes to augment current populations, but what has people worked up is a plan to establish a new population on an island in the Quabbin Reservoir. People aren’t allowed to set foot on the island which, in addition to the ample food sources and appropriate habitat, makes it a perfect place to release the snakes. Most people don’t like snakes. That fear is built into our cultural DNA thanks to association with lies and evil that goes back thousands of years. Throw venomous fangs into the mix – the timber rattlesnake is also one of two native venomous snakes

Providence Monthly | July 2016

in the area – and it’s easy to understand why people don’t want them around. But what Lou, and conservationists in general, are trying to combat is cherry picking in our efforts to protect wildlife. “We can’t selectively choose which species we want to conserve based on peoples’ hatred, fear or lack of education,” Lou explains. As it stands now, the plan to place the snakes in the Quabbin is on hold. In the meantime, the rattlesnakes at Roger Williams Park Zoo are doing their part to keep their species alive. As for Lou, well, he’s a snake guy, and he’s proud of the work the zoo has done with what he calls non-charismatic species. “We need all of these species. I don’t want to see any animals go extinct on my watch.” 1000 Elmwood Avenue. 785-3510, RWPZoo.org –Tony Pacitti

Photography by (Bottom) Tony Pacitti, (Top Right) Katie Leclerc

Roger Williams Park Zoo Rescues Rattlesnakes

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Providence Monthly | July 2016

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Real Estate

Malcontent

Collaborative

So You’re Speaker of the House Excerpts from the Official Rhode Island Speaker of the House Handbook There has been a lot of talk recently about the power of the Speaker of the House in Rhode Island. Many people have the misconception that the speaker wields unfettered control over the legislative process and can play by their own rules, but this is not accurate. There is actually a very comprehensive handbook that guides all new speakers through their complex roles and responsibilities. In order to help provide our readers with a better understanding of their government, we present the following excerpts from that handbook. Intro (pg. 3) Congratulations! You’ve just become the most powerful person in Rhode Island. Let that sink in for a moment… Okay, got it? Now lawyer up. By serving in this esteemed office, you join the ranks of distinguished Speakers throughout history, such as Nelson Aldrich, Ambrose Kennedy and federal inmates numbers 00154-006, 00915-235 and 02656-196. This is an office like no other in Rhode Island government, and from your first time presiding over a legislative session to the day when you’re eventually led out in handcuffs, it promises to be a wild ride. There is perhaps no one in the state with the potential to have a greater impact on the daily lives of Rhode Islanders than you, which is why you need to begin insulating yourself from them as quickly as possible. From now on there is only one set of priorities that matters: your own… EthIcs rEform (pg. 32) The people of Rhode Island deserve a transparent, ethical and accountable government, and it’s our most solemn duty as legislators to deliver it. We cannot tolerate the kind of corruption we’ve seen recently from some of our members and a strong code of ethics is needed to ensure that it doesn’t happen. Comprehensive reform is one of our highest priorities. Memorize that paragraph and repeat it every time an ethics issue comes up. Then just give whatever it is a quiet death in committee… LEgIsLatIvE grants program (pg. 65) …There is a common misperception that this program lacks oversight and a transparent process for determining which organizations receive grants. Some critics say that this money is divvied up behind closed doors according to the whims of legislators. Nothing could be further from the truth: there is a very clear and well-defined application process that ensures only worthy causes receive taxpayer money. First, the person or organization must contact the state representative or senator for their district and make a formal inquiry about the program. The legislator’s office will then fax a paper application to the person or organization, which must be filled out in full, notarized and placed in a sealed envelope. After sealing the envelope, the person or organization must then make five photocopies of the completed application, taking

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note that opening the sealed envelope legally voids the application. It’s extremely important that these steps happen in that exact order. The five copies of the application must be delivered in person to the district office of the appropriate legislator on Tuesday between 11am-3pm (alternately, it can be delivered to the legislator’s State House office on Friday between 3:30am-7am) by a sad clown in full makeup. The legislator will then decide whether the person or organization is politically important enough to be worthy of further consideration. If the legislator deems it worthy, he or she will indicate approval by placing a crown of meat on the applicant’s head. At that point, the applicant must walk barefoot directly from the State House to the summit of Jerimoth Hill and proclaim for all to hear why the application merits public support; preference will be given to proclamations that are delivered in rhyming couplets. At this point, the application can be denied by any Rhode Islander, provided they are able to climb to the top of the hill and successfully vanquish the applicant with a bludgeon fashioned from red maple, the official state tree. Assuming this does not occur, the application continues to the next phase of the review process, which literally cannot be printed in this book because every attempt to transcribe it has resulted in the page immediately bursting into flames, including those typed in Microsoft Word. Suffice to say that at this point, s--t gets real. If the applicant emerges from this part of the process holding the red stone, the application is denied. If he or she is holding the green stone, they can then proceed to the fourth and final phase of the process, in which they fill out a simple online application through a Google Forms link on the General Assembly’s MySpace page. In the end, just decide whatever the hell you want.

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July 2016 | Providence Monthly

pulse pulse From June 2-5, downtown was in full on party mode. Amazing performers from all over the world joined our city’s own super-talented arts scene for a memorable weekend of creativity. In case you slept on pvDfest, here’s a taste of what you missed out on. We’re already counting down until next year. First-Works.org photography by mike Braca and tony pacitti

PVDfest opening party at the Providence G

Grand Marshals Rose Weaver and Howard Bentre

Extraordinary Rendition Band

Drum circle in Kennedy Plaza

Providence Monthly | July 2016

Mayor Jorge Elorza

pulse pulse

historic What’s happening p

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LIVING history

A VIP tour of Rhode Island’s only natural history museum Photos and story by Grace Lentini

Visitors can have access to ever-changing exhibits, like the Africa room, which will be moving to a bigger space to showcase more of the extensive collection

Providence Monthly | July 2016

Dear reader, allow me a moment to geek out. I’m obsessed with the natural world around me, and was thrilled at the opportunity to get a behindthe-scenes tour of Rhode Island’s only natural history museum. A museum is a place to let your imagination loose, an opportunity to explore history and be immersed in a moment in time. New York City and Chicago come to mind when folks talk about museums. But there’s no reason to travel great lengths to get your history fix. Roger Williams Park is home to the Museum of Natural History and Planetarium, the only one of its kind in Rhode Island. It contains over one quarter million objects of natural and cultural history, with roughly 5,000 items on display at any time. The rest is kept in the temperature- and humidity-controlled vaults that open to the public twice a year (unless you get a sneak peek like this writer). It’s not all about animals and plants though. Exploring the museum puts you face-to-face with long lost cultures. How they lived, hunted, fished and adorned themselves may be all that remains, but you can put yourself in that moment, that headdress, that necklace. Let your imagination take hold, you may be surprised what you leave the museum with.

what would be the mouth of a whale and into the unknown… or the lobby. Once inside, it’s hard to miss the grand staircase with a bear on the landing, upright, its claws outstretched, beckoning visitors to explore. The lobby is an area curated by the museum’s docents. It includes some history about the Betsey Williams Cottage, the early history of the park, even a little about the zoo. It’s a chance to see how the grounds have changed through the years.

the tour begins

shifting through time

Upon entering the museum, the jawbone of a right whale greets you. It’s a bit like Pinocchio, walking through

celebrating africa

Through a stately arch and into the next room, a cheetah and lion are preserved in all their glory: strong, magnificent, stunning. Walk up to the mammals, take a long hard stare into their eyes and imagine being on the receiving end of their chase. The teeth, the claws, the perfectly attuned body for the hunt. There are also tapestries and statues, a nod to a time when everything was made by hand. “We highlighted three distinct regions,” explains Renée Gamba, director of the museum. “Africa is not a homogeneous continent, we wanted to make sure we divided it up.” The regions are easily distinguishable by the color of the display, and truly highlights the vibrant cultures.

Winding through the historic museum, the Seismic Shifts room tells the story of Earth through the eons. This is the

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This staged parlor brings to life how the natural world was studied by collectors

room where fossils, minerals and rocks are on display. The back wall highlights the geologic time scale, and explains how Earth is constantly changing, even now. Like global warming, for instance, as shown by the life size polar bears on display, a mother and her cub. If you were to get a foot away from a polar bear in real life, it would most likely be because you’re its meal. In this case, you can admire the fur, the gigantic paws, how tiny a cub truly is and perhaps make a mental note that just because there are no ice caps melting in Rhode Island, these creatures are losing their habitat.

the birds and the bees

Walking up a creaky, winding staircase and into the Natural Selections exhibit, a lioness and her three cubs welcome you. Turning the corner is a staged parlor behind a wooden railing. There’s a desk with an antique globe, preserved birds atop a white marble mantle, bookcases filled with animals from around the world and a glass room divider adorned with preserved birds inside it. I would imagine that explorers of yesteryear had a room similar to this while they were discovering new species on extended voyages. Adjacent to the parlor is an active beehive on a desk with a duct leading outside. Sitting and watching the bees in action is better than any Discovery Channel documentary because it’s alive and in front you. Knowing that there’s no risk of being stung certainly helps maintain the excitement. Preserved birds also pepper the room, and are Renée’s favorite. “I love the birds and I love being outside,” she explains. “With the natural selections exhibit, I did all of the cleaning and prepping of the birds.” The museum only has a staff of seven, so everyone does everything.

out of this world

Continuing through the museum, the NASA room is a must-see. Starting this

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month, there will be Mars ascent vehicles on display, designed by RISD students for the exhibit The Red Planet: Journey to Mars. “When you say the Red Planet, everybody knows it,” Renée says. “This exhibit can show students that science is happening right here.” The back wall shows the process of how RISD students designed the ascent vehicles, working with the guidelines provided by their professor Michael Lye, an industrial designer and educator at RISD. You’ll also see what scientists learned from the ascent vehicles, like what the geology and climatology is like on Mars, and, of course, the technology that NASA used for the mission. Basically, you get to see first hand what NASA is working with.

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The last room to explore looks like the ocean. Polished wooden cases hold treasures on a green background, and the wooden cases along the walls have a vibrant blue interior. It’s the perfect canvas to spotlight island populations. Artifacts from archipelagos like Polynesia, Micronesia, Fiji, Hawaii and Papua New Guinea are showcased. Imagine an entire primitive culture on an island, having only the resources of a very small area, needing to use everything and making sure nothing goes to waste. What you end up with are wooden bowls, jewelry made from shells and hog tusks, headdresses made from cornhusks. In keeping with the rest of the exhibit halls, there is natural history on display here as well. Did you know that albatrosses are the size of a small dog? Or that clamshells can get as big as a small trunk? This world is so big, and contains so many amazing species and cultures that have come and gone. The Museum of Natural History is a fascinating place to explore it.

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gourmet to go Food trucks have a long history, so why do they still seem so fresh? By John Taraborelli • Photography by James Jones

arlier this summer, East Side City Councilman Sam Zurier proposed

an ordinance that would require food truck owners operating in Providence to register their vehicles in the city and pay motor vehicle taxes accordingly. “If they’re going to come to our city and they’re going to gain business from our customers and they’re going to park their truck on our streets, it would seem only [right] that they would pay to us their motor vehicle excise tax,” he told WPRI’s Dan McGowan. Fortunately, the idea seemed to generate about as much interest among his colleagues as Lincoln Chafee’s presidential campaign, and Council President Luis Aponte quickly offered a voice of support for the mobile businesses, noting, “What the food trucks and the street food scene offer really has an impact beyond what the revenues may be.” Putting aside the holes in Zurier’s proposed ordinance (couldn’t every city and town in which food trucks do business make the same argument?), it speaks to the level of novelty that still exists around mobile eateries. We regard them as new and exciting, the start-up disruptors of the restaurant industry. But why should food trucks still seem so novel? They’re not exactly a new part of our culinary landscape.

the genesis of food trucks The idea of mobile food peddlers is almost as old as the country itself. New York first began regulating vendors selling food from pushcarts in the 1690s, back when it was still New Amsterdam. In 1866, an enterprising Texas cattleman named Charles Goodnight invented the first chuck wagon as a way to feed traveling cowboys. Of course, we all know mobile restaurants have a long and storied tradition here in Providence, where in 1872 a man named Walter Scott began serving lunch to ProJo employees out of a horse drawn wagon, creating the diner as we know it, and Haven Brothers has been a fixture since 1893. How can a concept so old and ingrained in our culture still generate so much buzz and excitement that only this year did Motif, a local arts and culture newspaper, decide to launch Rhode Island’s first-ever Food Truck Awards? Perhaps it has something to do with the modern reinvention of the mobile eatery – let’s call it the nouveau food truck. Up until very recently, the food truck experience was mostly limited to a basic ham or tuna sandwich purchased from a “roach coach” at a work site, a dirty water hot dog from a cart outside a baseball game or perhaps some carnitas from a mobile taqueria. For most of our food truck loving history, Haven Brothers was about as upscale as it got.

out of this world Founded in 2010, Rocket Fine Street Food is known for their mouth-watering hamburgers made with naturally-raised black angus beef. Offerings include speciality beef burgers, veggie burgers, hot dogs, sides and seasonal specials.

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Providence Monthly | July 2016

7/28 THE HUNGER GAMES

food trucks pick up speed

up your wild game game Open Season has only been open since March, but is already making a name for itself by serving up barbecue and wild game. They make venison chili, wild boar pulled pork quesadillas, elk sausage “corndog” bites and much more.

In the latter part of the previous decade, however, food trucks started to-go gourmet, a trend generally traced back to Los Angeles and chef Roy Choi. In 2008 he hit the streets with Kogi BBQ, his Korean-Mexican fusion taco truck; it quickly became a culinary sensation, with huge crowds following as he shared locations via Twitter. In one fell swoop, he established the blueprint for the nouveau food truck: classic street food reinterpreted with modern, gourmet twists; fast and affordable munchies peddled mostly to nightlife crowds; a hip, chef-driven culinary vision; and a reliance on social media to drive business. From there, a thousand mobile eateries bloomed. The folks behind Hope Street’s Chez Pascal brought the trend here around 2009 when they launched Hewtin’s Dogs Mobile, Providence’s first full-fledged gourmet food truck – which was in itself a spin-off of the Hewtin’s hot dog cart they had previously pushed in Lippitt Park. Their high-end hot dogs and housemade sausages and charcuterie were an immediate hit with hungry diners. While Hewtin’s mostly worked the farmer’s market circuit and weekdays Downcity, many others soon seized upon the opportunities presented by college students and bar patrons. Before long, it was common to see Mama Kim’s peddling Korean barbecue on College Hill at dinnertime or Poco Loco Tacos working the late night shift outside the E&O and the Scurvy Dog. The burgeoning food truck movement had its breakout year in 2010, with a slew of major developments and good news throughout the industry. The California Mobile Food Vendors Association, the first group of its kind, was formed, and the US government added “Tips for Starting Your Own Street Food Business” to its small business resource website. That same year, the National Restaurant Association opened 1,500 square feet of exhibition floor space at its annual convention to food trucks, and Zagat announced they would begin reviewing trucks in their 2011 guide. Locally, InDowncity, the Downtown merchants group run by Cornish Associates, began hosting a weekly lunchtime food truck stop at Grant’s Block. But things really exploded into pop culture in two very big ways that year: in April, Roy Choi was awarded Food & Wine magazine’s coveted “Best New Chef” honors, and in August the Food Network debuted the reality competition show The Great Food Truck Race. The trend was officially in full swing.

regulating regulars These days, food trucks are familiar sights around our urban landscape, but a certain novelty still persists. It’s both a blessing and a curse for the business owners. On the one hand, the sense of casual fun and culinary adventure that has come to define modern food trucks means that chefs can expect legions of hungry diners, particularly at events. EatDrinkRI’s Truck Stop, a benefit for the RI Community Food Bank, has sold out for four consecutive years and Food Truck Fridays at Roger Williams Park proved such a hit last summer that FoodTrucksIn, the local company that organizes it, decided to continue it straight through to Halloween. The flipside is that local governments are still unsure how to deal with mobile

Food Trucks After Dark

Mobile eateries are not immune to debauchery, especially from the late night crowd The real characters always come out at night, usually a bit tipsy and, of course, hungry. After last call comes and goes where does a night crawler looking to soak up some of the booze

end up? A food truck. During our cover shoot, Patricia Natter from Rocket Fine Street Food confirmed that that’s no exaggeration. “Everybody comes out drunk as a skunk,” she said, “and horny for some reason.” (Editor’s note: We’re just as surprised as she is about that. A slurred “Hey baby, you wanna cheeseburger?” lacks a certain je nais se quoi.) Other postbar crawl traits include generous tipping and a habit of trying to pay twice. For her part, Patricia always reminds her customers that yes, they have in fact already paid. Of course the late, late crowd can run the gamut, from humorously hammered to recklessly ripped. “I’ve seen

it all,” said Ivan Giusti, manager of the city’s – nay, the nation’s – oldest food truck, Haven Brothers. “I’ve had customers come by sober and then I see the same customer intoxicated and they’re a totally different person.” He talks about a bit about rowdiness and the occasional fight, but one story in particular earns its keep as one of the craziest things to happen in the legendary food truck’s history: “One thing that will never happen to anybody else was a few years back we had a customer with a Ferrari. They parked pretty much underneath the diner, they came in, ate and left. Then I felt a jolt. The whole truck shook. I looked out the window and I guess

instead of putting it in reverse he put it in drive and the Ferrari got stuck under the diner. They left the scene with a couple of girls that they picked up so I called the cops. They had left their keys and their wallet in the car, and then their phone rang. The cop answered it and it was the guy. They ended up having to tow it.” Remember that the next time your friend tells you you’ve been making a spectacular, drunken ass out of yourself in line for a few tacos outside the bar. No matter how drunk you will ever get, you will never do anything as bonkers as crashing a car that costs more than a house into a local treasure. –Tony Pacitti

Food

Truck

checklist

Taste yo u r way t h ro u g h t h e c i t y ’s fo o d t r ucks this summer BuDDHa Belly Authentic Chinese streetfood twitter: @BuddhaBellyRI Facebook: Facebook.com/ BuddhaBellyFoodTruck

like no uDDeR The world’s first all vegan soft serve ice cream truck twitter: @LikeNoUdder Facebook: Facebook.com/ LikeNoUdderLLC

noBle knotS Farm to plate food truck specializing in gourmet sandwiches on pretzel rolls. twitter: @NobleKnots Facebook: Facebook.com/ NobleKnots

open SeaSon Barbecue game meats twitter: @OpenSeasonTruck Facebook: Facebook.com/ OpenSeasonTruck

poRtu-Galo Portuguese sandwiches and small bites Facebook: Facebook.com/ PortugueseTruck

miJoS taCoS LA-style Mexican street food twitter: @MijosTacos Facebook: Facebook.com/ mijostacos

CHampionSHip melt Wrestling-themed food truck known for grilled cheese sandwiches and assorted comfort foods twitter: @ChampMelt Facebook: Facebook.com/ ChampionshipMelt

o CRepe tHe RollinG CRepeRie: Sweet and savory crepes twitter: @Ocreperi Facebook: Facebook.com/ OCrepeRI

poCo loCoS taCoS Fresh Mexican cuisine twitter: @PocoLocoTacos Facebook: Facebook.com/ Poco.Tacos

FanCHeeziCal Grilled cheese sandwiches twitter: @FanCheezical Facebook: Facebook.com/ FanCheezicalTruck

z FooD tRuCk Healthy wraps, sandwiches and soups twitter: @ZFoodTruck Facebook: Facebook.com/ ZFoodTruck

aCaCia FooD tRuCk Wholesome, healthy food made from natural, local and organic ingredients twitter: @AcaciaFoodTruck

Providence Monthly | July 2016

RHoDieS FooD tRuCk Comfort foods such as hot wings, Texas toast burgers and deep fried oreos twitter: @RhodiesFoodTrk Facebook: Facebook.com/ Rhodies.FoodTruck

Haven BRotHeRS DineR Classic American favorites such as hot dogs, burgers and milkshakes since 1893. twitter: @Havenbrosmobile Facebook:Facebook.com/ HavenBrothersDiner

SoulFull FRieD CHiCken Organic, southernstyle fried chicken twitter: @SoulFullRI Facebook: Facebook.com/ SoulFullRI

RHoDe RaGe Global haute cuisine twitter: @RhodeRageTruck Facebook: Facebook.com/ RhodeRageFoodTruck

plouF plouF GaStRonomie French cuisine twitter: @PloufPloufTruck Facebook: Facebook.com/ PloufPloufGastronomi

Citizen WinG Gourmet wings and comfort food with a twist twitter: @ CitizenWings Facebook: Facebook.com/ CitizenWing

tHe SalaD man anD JuiCe BaR Healthy options such as salads, rice bowls, juices and smoothies twitter: @ItsSaladman Facebook: Facebook.com/ ItsSaladMan

pReSto StRanGe o CoFFee tRuCk Organic coffee drinks and baked treats twitter: @PrestoStrangeO

mama kim’S koRean BBQ Korean Barbecue and comfort food twitter: @MamaKimsKBBQ Facebook: Facebook.com/ MamaKimsKBBQ

FooD 4 GooD Combines a traditional food truck with a mobile soup kitchen twitter: @FoodForGood Facebook: Facebook.com/ Food4GoodRI

SHuCkin’ tRuCk Ri Fresh seafood, including a mobile raw bar twitter: @shuckintruck Facebook: Facebook.com/ ShuckinTruck

eRmS CupCakeS A mobile cupcake, with over a dozen cupcake flavors Facebook: Facebook.com/ ErmsCupcakes

GaStRoS Specializes in “gastronomic eats” such as hotdogs and sausages twitter: @Gastros401

lotuS peppeR Authentic Vietnamese favorites twitter: @LotusPepper Facebook: Facebook.com/ LotusPepper

RoCket Fine StReet FooD Thoughtfully prepared hamburgers twitter: @RocketTruck Facebook: Facebook.com/ RocketTruck

FRiSkie FRieS French fries with flair twitter: @FriskieFries Facebook: Facebook.com/ FriskieFries

SaRCaStiC SWeetS Cupcakes and homemade desserts twitter: @SweetsSarcastic Facebook: Facebook.com/ SarcasticSweets

pat’S paStuReD FooD tRuCk Meat from pasture-raised and grass-fed animals twitter: @PatsPastured Facebook: Facebook.com/ PatsPastured

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food businesses, and often subject them to outdated regulations or seemingly arbitrary rules. Providence, to its credit, has made great progress over the past year, removing onerous rules that forbade food trucks from being in one location for more than two hours or parking in metered spaces. And there’s been a détente of sorts between bricks-and-mortar restaurants and mobile operators, who are not permitted to park within 200 feet of the front door of a restaurant that’s open. But food truck chefs still must earn their living at the whims of various municipalities and state agencies, all with different and at times unpredictable rules. In Providence, for example, food trucks are still not allowed to park within 300 feet of the Dunkin’ Donuts Center or PPAC during shows, and during WaterFire they’re not allowed to park within 300 feet of the event’s footprint. In Narragansett, the town seems to welcome food trucks for public events and allows them to peddle at the beach twice a week, but there’s no real system in place to govern where and when else they are allowed to operate in one of the state’s most popular summer destinations. Cranston basically remains a no-go zone, as it boasts one of the most restrictive rules in the country, forbidding food trucks from parking within 1,000 feet of any business that sells food – which includes grocery stores and gas stations. In addition, operators must obtain a separate vending license from each municipality in which they want to do business – usually around $150-$300 per town, each with their own process and waiting periods, and some even requiring an appearance before the town council – rather than one statewide permit.

the future of movable feasts What does the future hold for food truck culture? For the most part it’s looking bright. Cities and towns are starting to understand the benefits of their presence as more and more people seek them out and more events welcome them. Will the trend go the way of frozen yogurt, with demand petering out and businesses shuttering, or gourmet cupcakes, which have become ubiquitous to the point of passé. In the end, it may be chefs who leave the food trucks at the curb, following the lead of Matt and Kristin Gennuso from Chez Pascal, who retired Hewtin’s Dogs Mobile and shifted the concept into the brick-and-mortar Wurst Kitchen inside their restaurant. Poco Loco, too, has opened an actual restaurant (though they still operate their truck), and Like No Udder, the vegan ice cream truck, recently moved into a storefront on Ives Street, keeping the truck on reserve for events and catering. Rather than evidence that the food truck trend is slowing down, developments like that are proof of its merits. For some chefs, running a mobile food business is not the end, but rather the means: a small-scale, relatively inexpensive way to test out and refine a culinary vision before making the transition into a full-fledged restaurant. In the meantime, we get to enjoy all this delicious food.

wings for the people Started in 2014, Citizen Wing is known for its kicked up comfort food and gourmet wings. Look forward to brined wings, chicken and waffles, chicken tenders and pork schnitzel sandwiches, all sourced as locally as possible.

Providence Monthly | Month 2016

Food Truck stops Not sure where to find area food trucks? If finding them on social media isn’t your thing, head on over to these food truck hot spots. Hope StReet FaRmeRS maRket Saturdays 9am-1pm and Wednesdays 3-6pm Lippitt Park, 1059 Hope Street HopeStreetMarket.com kenneDy plaza Monday through Friday, 11am-2pm ProvParksConservancy.org GRant’S BloCk Food Truck Tuesdays, 11am-2pm 260 Westminster Street RoGeR WilliamS paRk CaRouSel villaGe Food Truck Friday, 5-8pm 1000 Elmwood Avenue RWPZoo.org anD Don’t miSS The 2nd Annual providence Food truck & Craft Beer Festival on August 6 will not disappoint – with 25 food trucks and 50+ craft beers, there is something for everyone. Not only will you be able to enjoy some of New England’s best local trucks with a cold brew, but you’ll also be able to enjoy live music and entertainment. Bring your picnic blanket and lawn chairs and head over to India Point park for unbeatable eats. $5 Admission. India Point Park, Gano Street. FoodtruckFestivalsofAmerica.com

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City Style At Home / Shop Talk / The Look / Beauty / Get Fit

Village Life Rich and Selene Byron live with their two young kids in Pawtuxet Village. They like to work in their garden and entertain with friends in their community, especially during football season.

While we eat breakfast, we watch the garden. The kids love to help water the flowers, watch the vegetables grow and spot the mama and daddy cardinal that live nearby along with the other birds that flock to our yard all year long.

I love exposed brick. When I learned there was brick behind the wall, I refused to believe we couldn’t show it. When Rich knocked down the walls the brick was parged with 2” of cement which he chiseled to expose the gorgeous brick chimney. We added the picture of our family hiking in New Hampshire as a focal point.

Photography by Mike Braca

When we purchased this home four years ago, the kitchen and dining room were very tight closed spaces. We knew we were going to open the kitchen to connect it to the rest of the house. We want to see our kids play, and as they grow, we wanted a space where we could cook dinner while helping with their homework. Our challenge included a load bearing wall and a laundry chute that I refused to do away with. Rich spent years as a builder and has an incredible artistic eye for design and build quality. He designed, with the help of Cole Construction, a warm and open space where we can see through to the playroom and sunlight streams through the house.

It seems funny to pick a footrest as a focal point, but it is very important to my husband to utilize the resources that are available to us. We have a property on the East Side that was built in 1790: the piece of wood used for the footrest is from our house and adds character to the dining room. When working on the house and the gardens, his mantra is, “Use the wood and the plants that we have before spending money unnecessarily.” When we do have to buy additional items, we buy local. The wood is from L. Sweet Lumber and appliances are from a mom and pop shop in Providence.

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City Styl e

The Look

by Jeanette St. Pierre

Veatsna Sok Photography by Ian Travis Barnard

UI/UX Designer & Software Developer My personal style can be described as “preppy New Englander.” I try to choose pieces that are timeless, yet professional and casual. My color palette varies from dark cool to earth tones. I love the classic look of button down shirts with casual fitted slacks. It’s a professional look that’s versatile enough for me to kick back in.

my sense of fashion and my taste in stores, what’s most important is that I feel comfortable, confident and carefree. I hate to admit it, but I’ve become one of those parents who really likes to match with their child. While my daughter Maly and I don’t match exactly, I do like to make sure we have the same color scheme on.

The outfit I have on is one of my favorites. I’m wearing a shirt from Gap, khakis from J.Crew and a pair of my favorite Clarks shoes. Despite

I’m excited to move with my family to California for a new job, but I’m sad to leave this town and my graphic designer position at

Providence Media. Providence will always be my home. There are so many memories that this beautiful little city has given me. It’s beauty, liberalism and diversity is like no other. I’ll miss all the good eats for sure. My best work memory was my first holiday party. It was nice being able to see everyone outside of work in a different environment. I remember purchasing a poor gift for the Yankee Swap – a bear tissue box – and I felt really bad for the recipient. At least we all had fun and had a good laugh.

July 2016 | Providence Monthly

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City Style

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Providence Monthly | July 2016

Believe it or not

– and for someone who’s been using eye cream religiously since age 13, I find it very hard to understand – there are some people who give themselves the whole summer off from skin care. The thinking goes like this: I’m going to be in the sun anyway, so why bother when I’m just going straight back to the beach? Effectively, you’re giving yourself a pass on taking proper care of yourself for a whole quarter of the year. I get it. I love the beach, too. That’s why I’m so excited about Farmaesthetics’ new summer skincare line. I can have my summer tan, and still have the healthy skin I work so hard to maintain the rest of the year. I’ve been a fan of Farmaesthetics for a long time. The company, based in Portsmouth, was the first in Rhode Island to not only believe that skincare should be as close to nature as possible, but to make world-class products that work as well (or better) than their chemical-filled counterparts. Their Fine Herbal Cleanser has five ingredients, two of which are lavender and geranium essential oils. It’s been a fixture in my shower for years. I love the 30 seconds of aromatherapy it gives me every morning, while gently cleansing and balancing my skin. Because I’m a beach bum – seriously, what else do we live in Rhode Island for? – I get a predictably reliable set of skin issues during the summer. All of the sunscreen gives me clogged pores, and all of the sun gives me inevitable peeling. Apparently I’m not the only person who experiences this, because Farmaesthetics’ new summer line is designed to combat exactly those two things. Their Sweet Milk and Rose Petal Exfoliate is a dry exfoliator, made with (you guessed it) milk proteins and red rose petals. A little bit of that in the palm of your hand, a few pumps of the cleanser to activate the product, and a 30-second scrub before you get in the shower is all you need to brighten and freshen your

skin any time you feel like it needs a boost. I’ve been using that once or twice a week, and then after the shower while I’m drying off, a threeminute application of their new Herbal Hydration Complex. The gelcream mask is a boost of botanical moisture. I love that using the two on any given morning doesn’t add any time at all to my regular routine, but leaves me with a fresh face that I feel good about not wearing any makeup on that day. Once a week, I’ve been using the Vassar Rose Perfecting Polish. This is a huge step forward in natural plant technology. The product works the same way the other exfoliate does:

a little bit in your hand, mixed with a little bit of the cleanser, and a quick scrub. It sounds simple, but it’s a total game changer. This product basically gives you equivalent of microdermabrasion, but in your bathroom, and it only takes one minute of your time. I love the results – cell turnover, smaller pores, smoother skin – and I particularly love that I can do it at home, on any given workday morning. It’s the middle of the summer, and I’ve been doing my normal sun worshiping, but you would never know it from how my skin looks. I look like I’ve been living under a giant hat at all season. I believe that’s what they call the best of both worlds. I’ll take it.

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July 2016 | Providence Monthly

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City Styl e

Get Fit

by John Taraborelli

Row, Row, Row Someone Else’s Boat Getting out on the water at Narragansett Boat Club

Make a splash on the Seekonk River this summer

Photography by Amy Amerantes

For years I’ve run

down River Road (for fitness, not romance) and felt a bit of jealousy as I passed Narragansett Boat Club (NBC). I always see competitive rowing teams gearing up on the grass across from the building as crews glide swiftly through the Seekonk River off in the distance. It looks like such a pleasant way to spend the day – though, judging by the shoulders and abs on some of these folks, they’re not just enjoying a relaxing paddle on a lazy river. Needless to say, I was excited to receive an invitation to their Open House and finally get out on the water myself. The NBC is one of those under-theradar institutions that everyone recognizes (“Oh yeah, that building over on the river”) but for the most part people don’t know much about. It has a lot of history, dating all the way back to 1838. Its list of founders reads like a who’s who of families things in Providence are named after: William Greene, Rufus Waterman, Henry Lippitt, Charles Arnold, et al. It began in a large boathouse near the intersection of River Road and Angell Street, but a century later moved into its current home after the original was sold to Brown University. For much of its early life, the club

was focused around competitive rowing; at its peak in the 1880s, NBC produced several champion rowers and got itself on the cover of Harper’s for hosting a professional sculling regatta. In the ‘70s, the club launched a learn-to-row program under the direction of Albin Moser. Today it boasts approximately 180 members, with 50-60 rowing more than once a week, who combine to row more than 80,000 cumulative miles per year. And Albin Moser is still the Director of Rowing Programs. The man himself was there to greet us at the Open House. I was placed in a group with several other newbies: mostly women in their 40s, along with a teenage girl and a 20-something guy. Albin gave us a brief overview of rowing, followed by a tour of the facilities and a history lesson. Within minutes we went down to the docks to board “the barge,” which is the largest and most elementary of NBC’s boats. We were going to get an introduction to sweep rowing, in which each rower holds a single oar (as opposed to sculling, which is done with an oar in each hand). The barge provides novices with an entry point to all the basics: the different ways to use the blade to manipulate the motion of

the boat, the anatomy of the stroke, the sliding seats. We were loaded into the boat and pushing off from the dock faster than you might expect. As we quickly learned, rowing is simple, but it’s not easy. The basic technique of the stroke is a testament to the power of our body’s core: while it may look like the shoulders and arms are doing all the work, a surprising amount of the force behind each stroke is drawn from the hips and lower back. Albin helped us piece together the rudiments of the stroke in three phases: we began by simply pushing the oar out to arm’s length then drawing it into our chest to push the boat through the water. Next, we added some upper body movement, beginning in a forward lean with our arms out, then laying back as we again drew the oar towards our chests, adding even more power to the drive. Finally, we worked the legs, with the seat forward and the knees bent in sort of a crouch at the beginning of the stroke, we then thrust ourselves backwards with our legs while we leaned

back and pulled the oars towards our chests to achieve the full force of the drive. Even with 12 complete novices in the boat, the combined power of those movements gave us considerable speed. We managed to get the hang of the basic elements of the stroke fairly quickly. Getting 12 people who didn’t know each other or the sport less than 30 minutes prior in sync for multiple strokes proved to be a bit more of a challenge. While the mechanics were simple, the rhythm was deceptively complex. Before long we had overlapping oars, mistimed strokes, and uneven drives on either side of the boat. We were kind of a mess, but we were rowing, which was more than any of us could have said earlier in the morning. I like to imagine that some runner was passing by at just that moment, jealous of my newfound place on the water. Want to learn to row? The next open house is July 23, and the next six-week, 12-class rowing instruction program begins August 1.

Narragansett Boat Club 2 River Road • 272-1838 • RowNBC.org July 2016 | Providence Monthly

City Style

NON-DAIRY

Shop Talk

by Claire Flanagan

Frozen Treats & More (gluten-free options too)

Old and New Treasures The Find on 6 offers a vast expanse of antique and vintage goods

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401.228.3880 Book Our Truck for Your Next Event

401.419.8869 www.like-no-udder.com

BABS handbags BABSetc.com 42

Providence Monthly | July 2016

Nestled just off Route 6 in Johnston, surrounded by a picturesque mossy pond, is nearly 12,000 square feet of the widest variety of vintage and antique goods you could ever ask for. With several spacious rooms and additional seasonal outdoor space, the appropriately named The Find on 6 is brimming with finds of all kinds for your home. The range of items and furniture available is immense. You’ll find all things great and small, as well as everything from casual, tiny trinkets to high-end china, crystal and cabinets. So whether you’re looking for something more laid back or more upscale, you can find something to your taste. They carry furniture for living rooms, bedrooms and dining rooms, as well as desks, appliances, chairs, tables, kitchenware, textiles, artwork and other home furnishings. The amount of gorgeous, well-cared-for wood furniture items is particularly eyecatching. There’s a bar packed with fun old mugs and beer glasses, and every surface in the space is packed with toys, records, instruments, books, games

and magazines from all eras. A small clothing section offers various styles and looks. An outdoors section has offbeat lawn furnishings, like fountains and statues, as well as patio furniture and other outdoor needs. There’s an overarching shabby chic and funky vibe to the store, but it really does carry items suited to all kinds of tastes. Owner Adam Wright describes some of the special aspects of the space. “What sets us apart from other consignment stores is that we do a lot of merchandising,” he says, explaining how it’s primarily a consignment store, but they also have spaces set up from 13 Rhode Island area vintage and antique dealers. Another thing that makes The Find unique is the sheer amount of retail space. It’s no exaggeration that you could wander for hours and get lost in it if you wanted. The store boasts several large rooms, each with very high ceilings, packed with all sorts of furniture and shelves with various smaller pieces.

There’s also the outdoor garden space and a cool greenhouse-like room with sunlight pouring in. The store also has a clear emphasis on care and quality. By the checkout counters, you’ll find tools, wood polishing and other restoration supplies to make sure you can keep everything in your home and anything you find at The Find in the best shape possible. There’s also U-Haul rental available, so if you’d like to bring in or bring home something that is very large, or need to transport multiple items, you can easily take care of it right from the store. It’s truly something you have to see to experience, but to get a taste of what you can find you can follow them on Instagram (@thefindon6) or check out the photo gallery on their Facebook page. And if there’s something you’ve been meaning to get rid of or consign, this is certainly somewhere it’ll find a great home.

The Find on 6 2953 Hartford Ave, Johnston • 764-0651 • TheFindon6.com

Photography by Tiffany Axtmann

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July 2016 | Providence Monthly

feast

Photography by Stacey Doyle

In the Kitchen / On the Menu / Review / In the Drink / Rhody Bites

A Bit of Italy in the Smithfield We don’t like to drive anywhere. When so much in Providence is in walking distance, why would you? But sometimes there’s something worth the drive, and this month Tavolo has us packing the car for Smithfield. Sautéed shrimp, pancetta, broccolini, cherry tomato and fresh spaghetti in an herb beurre blanc from Tavolo Wine Bar and Tuscan Grille

feast

review

by Stephanie Obodda

Fresh, Inspired Italian A taste of rustic fare in Smithfield

from my 13 years in this state, only non-native Rhode Islanders would travel more than ten miles for dinner. We were taking a friend out to celebrate his 40th birthday and looking for an excuse to try Tavolo, which I’d overheard was “a piece of Federal Hill in Smithfield.” It was a Saturday night, and I didn’t mind trading the traffic for the suburbs. Though Tavolo is in a strip mall, the Ferrari parked outside did deliver the Atwells vibe. Owners Leonard and Sherri Mello owned the restaurant’s predecessor (D Carlo Trattoria) for about a year when they decided to give it their own touch. The significant interior renovation and expanded menu impressed many regulars. Tavolo’s dinner menu has some Italian standards, like Calamari, Caprese salad and Veal Parmesan. It also has a few creative options that caught my eye, like a Pulled Braised Chicken dish with gnocchi, pancetta, mushrooms and escarole. We were seated at a table next to the raised bar area, packed with

Key lime pie with blueberry compote, mango coulis and whipped cream

the scoop 46

enthusiastic drinkers. Though we were some of the younger diners in the room that night, the restaurant was quite energetic. It was loud, though the volume was appropriate for a Saturday night. A talented pianist played the genre of song that’s somehow simultaneously melancholy and upbeat, epitomized by Elton John’s “Rocket Man.” Black Stallion Pinot Noir was on the specials list that night, and we started a bottle as we browsed the appetizers. Our Fried Risotto Balls came four to an order in a bowl of marinara. They were almost the size of baseballs and exploded with creamy cheesiness as we cut into them. The Grilled Tuscan Provolone Sausage was served over a hearty helping of sautéed broccoli rabe, topped with shavings of parmesan. A pizza sounded good, even if it meant we had to maneuver a stand onto our small table. The Garlic Oil pizza was a fun combination, with broccoli rabe, prosciutto, olives and fresh mozzarella. The crust was thin

Roasted beets with baby arugula, candied pecans, red onion, roasted shallot vinaigrette and goat cheese crostini

but not floppy. Tavolo has an extensive wine list. Luckily, our waitress was enthusiastic about wine and eager to

make recommendations. After we finished our first bottle, we switched to the 2012 Monsanto Chianti Classico Reserva, which received a 92-point rating from Wine Spectator. I was excited to try the Prosciutto Wrapped Cod, a creative and delicious dish. The cod filet was wrapped in a giant slice of prosciutto and served in a shallow bowl of mussel chowder with roasted fingerling potatoes. My husband’s Porcini Rubbed Filet Mignon was topped with a sunny-side up egg and hollandaise. Tavolo’s wild mushroom and asparagus hash, also available as a side, comes with this steak, which was cooked perfectly to order. The Porcini Stuffed Purses & Truffle Butter is a good side to add to the steak. This pasta shape, officially known as fiocchi, are adorably rustic. Our friend had the Frutti Di Mare with capellini. If you need a refresher pasta lesson, that’s a little thicker than angel hair but thinner than spaghetti.

Providence Monthly | July 2016

Photography by Stacey Doyle

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In this classic dish, it was combined with a spicy red sauce and mussels, scallops, shrimp, squid and littlenecks. We coyly asked the waitress if the pianist took requests, and before we knew it he indulged us with not only our friend’s namesake song (“Daniel” by Elton John) but also a round of happy birthday. Our Dessert Sampler emerged with the requisite candle, perfectly timed. The Dessert Sampler is enough for a crowd. The long, slim rectangular

plate was stylishly adorned with four desserts: key lime pie, tiramisu, a s’mores brownie and NY style cheesecake. My favorite was the S’Mores Chocolate Brownie, which is also available by itself. The fudgy brownie was topped with a giant homemade marshmallow and graham cracker ice cream. With so many good options closer to home, I don’t venture to Smithfield often. But sometimes a meal is worth the drive.

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555 Atwood Avenue, Cranston • 944-2500 • cucinarusticari.com July 2016 | Providence Monthly

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feast

on the menu by Grace Lentini

New Restaurants on the Block Whet your appetite with new dining destinations around Providence

Photography (Top) by Meghan H. Follett

In an ever-changing dining scene one thing remains the same: an expectation from diners to continuously have their palates challenged. We need more that just a piece of fish, a plate of pasta, a strip of steak. The newest restaurants in town meet the challenge, and are quite delicious. Federal Hill adds a restaurant to its delicious scene with massimo (134 Atwells Avenue. 273-0650, MassimoRI.com), the newest culinary creation from Pane e Vino Restaurante and Enoteca owners Joseph and Esther DeQuattro. Taking up residence in the space previously occupied by Meditteraneo, the updates are stunning, with warm wood tones throughout and an eclectically modern and hip vibe. Chef Joe oversees Massimo’s menu, in addition to Pane e Vino. His take on Massimo is contemporary Italian cuisine from various regions, as opposed to the rustic Italian quality diners have time to expect at Pane e Vino, which highlights the Campagnia region. Although the menus vary, what remains the same is Chef Joe’s culinary touch, which means thoughtful Italian cuisine that keeps you coming back for more. Persimmon (99 Hope Street. 4327422, PersimmonRI.com) is now comfortably situated in the old Rue de L’Espoir locale. With an updated exterior, open kitchen perfect for watching the chefs prepare all the food and a lovely chef’s counter, there are few things besides the bones of this building that give a nod to its previous occupant. In addition to the move, Persimmon is noticeably larger than its former location in Bristol, and so is its menu. Pasta dishes are a new addition to the menu – all of which are made in-house – plus staples of vegetables, meats, fish and dessert. In true Champe Speidel form, all the dishes are works of art, with an array of colors bursting with flavors and textures that dance across your tongue and tantalize your taste buds. There’s a constantly changing

menu, so you’ll have the opportunity to explore the range of Chef Champe’s repertoire as he plays with produce in season. Think of a delicious and simple bouillabaisse, tender lamb, plump gnocchi, seasonal greens and panna cotta for dessert. It’s a feast for both the eyes and the palate. From the same folks who brought us Hemenway’s and Waterman Grille – Newport Restaurant Group – comes the newest addition to Garden City: Avvio (90 Hillside Road, Cranston. 942-2900, AvvioRistorante.com). This warm and inviting Italian eatery focuses on both locally- and Italiansourced ingredients that come together in their Neapolitan pizzas, wood-fire grilled entrees and classic Italian dishes. Look forward to Shrimp Bruschetta, classic Margherita pizzas, Rigatoni Bolognese, Flat Iron Steak and, of course, delectable desserts like Olive Oil Cake. These mouth-watering dishes only touch upon the diverse and enticing menu at Avvio, so be sure to stop by and try it for yourself. If it’s anything like the Newport Restaurant Groups’ other restaurants, this one is sure to hit all the right notes. It’s no secret Rhode Islanders love Italian food. We probably even have the most Italian restaurants per square mile outside of Italy (not factually accurate but it sure does seem that way). That being said, I don’t think anyone is complaining. Everyone has their favorites, and folks are always willing to experiment with the new restaurant on the block. Cucina rustica (555 Atwood Avenue, Cranston. 944-2500, CucinaRusticaRI.com) and is brought to us from the owners of Oceanside at the Pier in Narragansett. With a homey and warm feel, this Italian restaurant features a raw bar, pizzas, freshly made pasta, house specialties and tasty dining deals. Stop by on Mangia Mondays for all-you-caneat salad, pasta, meatballs and garlic bread or on Wednesdays for half price bottles of wine. There’s even live music on Saturday nights.

Cannelloni from Avvio

Clam Casino Pizza from Cucina Rustica

July 2016 | Providence Monthly

feast

“Best Chocolate Chip Cookie in Providence!” -

Come Try For yourselF order online For delivery

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Discover Jewelry | Apparel | Gifts

1375 Park Avenue Cranston • 944.4844 magnoliasalonri.com 50

Providence Monthly | July 2016

by Nicolas Staab

The Secret Ingredient Chef Edward Bolus on why Mill’s Tavern is a home for playful and ambitious cooking It’s no secret that Providence houses a prestigious collection of fine-dining destinations. The ones that truly stick out are headed by chefs that take chances and follow their inner passions with each dish. Take, for instance, Mill’s Tavern and the surprising menu elements they bring to the table, all thanks to their Executive Chef Edward Bolus. We stopped by and got the inside scoop on the dishes Chef Ed feels most proud of, and how his artistic freedom at Mill’s is the real secret ingredient in the kitchen. Where did your passion for cooking begin? I attribute where I am today from what I took away from my parents’ cooking when I was a child. One of my strongest memories is waking up in the middle of the night and smelling marinara sauce on the stove. I was on the other end of the house and thinking, “Oh my God, that smells amazing.” My father’s side is 100% Lebanese and my mother’s predominantly German, so I was introduced to a lot of different foods at a young age (like eating raw lamb at three years old). It definitely gave me a different appreciation and perspective than most kids who grew up on Hamburger Helper and Chef Boyardee. You started out shucking oysters for mill’s tavern and now you’re the executive chef. What made you stay with the restaurant for nearly a decade? One of things that I love about Mill’s Tavern, and possibly the reason why I’ve stayed so long, is that nobody tells me what I can or can’t do in the kitchen. I get to teach myself and try new things all the time. We’ve done bison, ostrich, venison – basically whatever we want to do, we take a stab at it. My bosses never question what I do. So long as the restaurant does well, I get to play with anything I want. It’s one of the most amazing aspects of the job. I get to take chances and push the envelope with my dishes. What station on the kitchen line is your “sweet spot”? I love grilling. We have an open wood and charcoal grill in the kitchen. The flavor our steaks get on that open fire

Chef Edward Bolus has free reign in the MIll’s Tavern kitchen

is just incredible. We’ve got a rotisserie on there, too. I just had a single spit manufactured so I can roast a whole suckling pig. That’s the game plan for the summer. We do a major change to the menu each season, and then host a wine dinner to showcase those changes. I’ll engineer it to be themed on the seasonal ingredients available. For summer we’re thinking about a luau theme or anything that will work around an entire rotisserie suckling pig. What’s a stellar item on the menu that you would recommend? The dish I’m most pleased with right now is the Skate, which is stingray, for those who don’t know. It’s made with traditional pan sauce, but with a twist. We dust the skate in rice flour to keep it gluten-free. Then a quick pan sear on the skate with a little garlic, shallots, fennel, caramelized onion and then we deglaze it with Sambuca. A little cream, finished with butter and heirloom cherry tomatoes. That all goes over Vermicelli rice noodles. So there’s a little Asian influence and French style. Can you talk about a dish you feel personally connected to.

The Rabbit Roulade is a dish that I’m particularly proud of. It’s evolved quite a bit from its original form. It’s a whole rabbit saddle, so you de-bone the entire rabbit, take the four legs and hind quarters and grind them to make a forcemeat, then pack that inside the saddle. [Then] put inlays of various ingredients, anything from bacon chorizo to edamame, sun dried tomtates or olives. Since we break down all of our own duck inhouse too, I take the tenderloins and in-lay them within the roulade. When you roll and slice it, you can see the tenderloins throughout each cut. If you had the choice, what would be your last meal? If I had to have my last meal it would be Kibbeh with fried eggs and flat bread. Palate-wise, it’s not something most people would consider a “favorite dish” but I’ve always loved it. It’s basically the Lebanese version of tartar – ground lamb and beef with a few moderate spices, like mint, pepper and onion. The meat my mother always had for this dish was unbelievably fresh, like just-after-the-butcher-cut-it kind of fresh. Hence the reason I was able to eat it raw as a kid.

Mill’s tavern 101 North Main Street • 272-3331 • MillsTavernRestaurant.com

Photography by Mike Braca

In the Kitchen

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July 2016 | Providence Monthly

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Sweltering weather has a way of making kitsch unironically appealing. When it’s 100 degrees on a good day, with 2,000% humidity, who has time for tastefulness and decorum? Who wants to remain a respectable adult? Not a one of us. We all enter an unapologetically warped, regressive state in which more is more, bad choices get a pass and youthful nostalgia mixes with grownup indulgence. There is no more perfect emblem of this phenomenon than the spiked slushie. Both its halves – the spiked half and the slushie half – are all id, even if one hails from middle-aged territory and the other from middle school. And to boot, it’s possibly the utmost democratizing summer drink, capable of felling class and political divides in a single, icy, highproof swoop. At Rick’s Roadhouse, Providence’s unapologetic bastion of Americana, spiked slushies are king all season long. One in particular, the Grapefruit Slushie, comes with a side of Rhode Island pride – since it pays homage to Del’s, the state’s most iconic iced lemonade. “A couple of years ago they came out with a grapefruit version that blew me away,” says Harrison Elkhay, who directs beverages for Rick’s and its sister restaurants. He began

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to think about a NSFW version to serve, and soon a citrusy, vodka-soused, Snookie-approved slushie was born. Alright, alright. There’s a little class involved. Rick’s uses only fresh-squeezed juices, never the concentrated stuff or high-fructose whatchamacalit laced with red dye #47. The slushies come with perfectly textured ice in a highball glass, with no plastic cup or neon straw in sight.

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Grapefruit Slushie Serves one “It’s relatively easy but kind of difficult,” Harrison says, enigmatically, about how to DIY this spiked slushie. Turns out that the easy part is the straightforwardness of the ingredients and the process: It contains just one liquor, a couple of juices and ice. (Blend, stir, sip.) But translating what they do at Rick’s to a home bar is a challenge, since Harrison and his team utilize an Island Oasis machine for the ice and the blending. It is to an average blender what a monster truck is to a beat-up sedan. Nevertheless, Harrison thinks the amateur

161 Cushing Street, Providence Contact Jordan at 273-2737 Or at Jordanm@flatbreadcompany.com .

bartender can still wind up with a passable version. • 1.5 oz of Deep Eddy grapefruit vodka (a Texan brand, natch) • 3 oz fresh-squeezed ruby red grapefruit juice • .5 oz fresh-squeezed lemon juice • Approximately 1.5 cups of crushed ice • Fresh grapefruit slice Add the vodka, fresh juices and ice to a blender and pulse lightly until blended but not pureed. Serve in a tall hurricane glass with a fresh slice of grapefruit.

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Rick’s Roadhouse 370 Richmond Street • 272-7675 • RicksRoadhouseRI.com July 2016 | Providence Monthly

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Providence Monthly | July 2016

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RHODY BITES A Sponsored Statewide Dining Guide

View our full restaurant profiles on RhodyBites.com

Red Stripe established in 2005, Red Stripe is a neighborhood restaurant that serves refined comfort food with casual finesse. The menu features dishes typically found in a traditional French brasserie such as steak frites and short rib Bourguignon. American and Rhode Island favorites like burgers, grilled cheese sandwiches, calamari, grilled seafood and pasta round out a diverse menu that appeals to many tastes. Everything is made from scratch at Red Stripe, so you know you’re getting fresh, quality food at every meal. Red Stripe Providence has been

expanded to include a 70 seat private dining room in addition to a main dining room that accommodates 100 diners. The restaurant sports a red outdoor awning, dark wood walls, high tin ceiling and striking black-and-white floor pattern. In true brasserie style, the eateries are a convivial spot where the bar is located right in the middle of the restaurant, creating a buzz and energy level that permeates the space. No matter what the occasion, Red Stripe will prepare a delicious and affordable meal in an inviting setting for you, your family and friends.

Insider tip: The restaurant can accommodate 175 guests, including a 50-seat private dining room.

465 Angell St, Providence • 401-437-6950 455 Main St, East Greenwich • 401-398-2900 10 Prime Steak & Sushi Gourmet steaks and sushi. 55 Pine St, Providence, 4532333. LD $$$

Breachway Grill Classic New England fare, plus NY-style pizza. 1 Charlestown Beach Rd, Charlestown, 213-6615. LD $$

Angelo’s Civita Farnese restaurant Italian American comfort food classics. 141 Atwells Ave, Providence, 621-8171. LD $-$$

Café nuovo Contemporary New World cuisine. 1 Citizens Plz, Providence, 4212525. LD $-$$$

AQuA Poolside cocktails with seasonal American cuisine. 1 Orms St, Providence, 272-2400. LD $-$$

Capriccio Upscale international food with a northern Italian/Mediterranean accent. 2 Pine St, Providence, 421-1320. LD $-$$$

Besos Kitchen & Cocktails Tapas and eclectic cuisine and cocktails. 378 Main St, East Greenwich, 398-8855. BrLD $$$ Bistro 22 New American rustic cuisine in Garden City. 22 Midway Rd, Cranston, 383-6400. LD $-$$

Photography by HIlary Block

Black Bass Grille Classic seafood, historic waterfront setting. 3 Water St, South Dartmouth, MA, 508-999-6975. LD $$ Bluefin Grille at the Providence marriott Downtown Seasonal and sustainable seafood in an elegant atmosphere. 1 Orms St, Providence, 272-5852. LD $-$$

Carriage Inn & Saloon Regional comfort food accompanied by a whiskey bar. 1065 Tower Hill Rd, North Kingstown, 294-8466. D $-$$ CAV Eclectic cuisine and art in an historic setting. 14 Imperial Pl, Providence, 7519164. BrLD $$-$$$ Celestial Café Organic farm-to-table fine dining. Oak Harbor Village, 567 S County Tr, Exeter, 295-5559. BrLD $-$$$ Centro restaurant & Lounge Contemporary cuisine and cocktails. 1 W Exchange St, Providence, 228-6802. BLD $$$

Red Stripe is a cut above your typical neighborhood restaurant

Champlins Seafood Dockside fresh seafood serving easy breezy cocktails. 256 Great Island Rd, Narragansett, 783-3152. LD $-$$ Chez Pascal/the Wurst Kitchen Seasonal farm-to-table cuisine with a French accent. House-made sausages, hot dogs and accoutrements. 960 Hope St, Providence, 421-4422. LD $-$$$

DeWolf tavern Gourmet American/Indian fusion. 259 Thames St, Bristol, 2542005. BLD $$-$$$ the Dorrance Fine dining with exquisite cocktails. 60 Dorrance St, Providence, 521-6000. D $$$ eleven Forty nine City sophistication in the suburbs. 1149 Division St, Warwick, 884-1149. LD $$$

Chapel Grille Gourmet food overlooking the Providence skyline. 3000 Chapel View Blvd, Cranston, 944-4900. BrLD $$$

ella’s Fine Food & Drink Elegant dining meets international cuisine. 2 Tower St, Westerly, 315-0606. D $-$$$

Circe restaurant & Bar South Beach meets New England seafood favorites. 50 Weybosset St, Providence, 437-8991. BrLD $-$$$

Flatbread Company Artisanal pizza, local ingredients. 161 Cushing St, Providence, 273-2737. LD $-$$

Clean Plate Delicious comfort food in a casual setting. 345 S. Water St, Providence, 621-8888. BBrLD $$

Fresco Italian American comfort food with international inspirations. 301 Main St, East Greenwich, 398-0027; 140 Comstock Pkwy, Cranston, 228-3901. D $-$$

Cucina rustica Rustic, Italian-style dining combining comfort food and sophistication. 555 Atwood Ave, Cranston, 944-2500. LD $-$$

George’s of Galilee Fresh caught seafood in an upscale pub atmosphere. 250 Sand Hill Cove Rd, Narragansett, 783-2306. LD $-$$

Key: B breakfast Br brunch L lunch D dinner $ under 10 $$ 10–20 $$$ 20+

July 2016 | Providence Monthly

RHODY BITES Continued

harry’s Bar & Burger Handcrafted sliders, brews and pub games. 121 N Main St, Providence, 228-7437; 301 Atwells Ave, 228-3336. LD $-$$ haruki Japanese cuisine and a la carte selections with casual ambiance. Locations in Cranston and Providence. HarukiSushi.com LD $-$$ Iggy’s Doughboys & Chowder house Classic clam shack fare, plus famous doughboys. 889 Oakland Beach Ave, Warwick, 737-9459; 1157 Point Judith Rd, Narragansett, 783-5608. LD $ Iron Works tavern A wide variety of signature American dishes in the historic Thomas Jefferson Hill Mill. 697 Jefferson Blvd, Warwick, 739-5111. LD $-$$$ Jacky’s Galaxie Local Pan-Asian chain offering sushi and classic entrees in a modern atmosphere. Locations in Providence, North Providence, Bristol and Cumberland, JackysGalaxie.com. LD $-$$$ Jigger’s Diner Classic ‘50s diner serving breakfast all day. 145 Main St, East Greenwich, 884-6060. BL $-$$ Julian’s A must-taste Providence staple celebrating 20 years. 318 Broadway, Providence, 861-1770. BBrLD $$ Kartabar Mediterranean-style cuisine, chic setting. 284 Thayer St, Providence, 331-8111. LD $-$$ KitchenBar Contemporary comfort cuisine. 771 Hope St, Providence, 331-4100. BrLD $$ Laurel Lane Country Club Upscale pub cuisine overlooking a picturesque golf course. 309 Laurel Ln, West Kingston, 783-3844. LD $-$$ Lim’s restaurant Upscale Thai and fresh sushi. 18 South Angell St, Providence, 383-8830. LD $$ Luxe Burger Bar Build your own creative burger. 5 Memorial Blvd, Providence, 621-5893. LD $ maharaja Indian restaurant Indian cuisine and traditional curries in a warm setting. 1 Beach St, Narragansett, 363-9988. LD $-$$ malted Barley American craft beer, gourmet pretzels and creative

sandwiches in downtown Westerly. 42 High St, Westerly, 315-2184; 334 Westminster St, Providence, 490-0300. LD $$ mcBride’s Pub Traditional Irish pub fare in Wayland Square. 161 Wayland Ave, Providence, 751-3000. LD $$ mcCormick & Schmick’s Seafood & Steak Mixed grill selections and signature fish dishes sourced locally and seasonally. 11 Dorrance St, Providence, 351-4500. BLD $$-$$$ mia’s Prime time Café Upscale café cuisine by the Pawcatuck River. 1 West Broad St, Pawcatuck, CT, 860-5993840. BLD $$

Pho horn’s Fresh, authentic Vietnamese dishes in a colorful setting. 50 Ann Mary St #403, Pawtucket, 365-6278. LD $-$$ Pizza J A fun, upbeat atmosphere with thin crust pizza, pub fare and gluten-free options. 967 Westminster St, Providence, 632-0555. LD $-$$ Pizzico Diverse Italian and fusion cuisine in a rustic yet eclectic atmosphere. 762 Hope St, Providence, 421-4114; 308 County Rd, Barrington, 247-0303. LD $-$$$

Providence Monthly | July 2016

Public Kitchen & Bar American food with changing daily inspirations. 120 Francis St, Providence, 919-5050. BrLD $-$$ rasa Authentic and contemporary Indian. 149 Main St, East Greenwich, 398-2822. LD $$ rasoi Vegetarian-friendly Indian cuisine.

Worth The Drive:

mill’s tavern Historic setting for New American gourmet. 101 N Main St, Providence, 272-3331. D $$$ napolitano’s Brooklyn Pizza Classic Italian fare and traditional New Yorkstyle pizzas. 100 East St, Cranston, 383-7722; 380 Atwells Ave, Providence, 273-2400. LD $-$$ nordic Lodge Surf and turf buffet selections perfect for family gatherings. 178 E Pasquisett Trl, Charlestown, 7834515. LD $$$ ocean State Sandwich Company Craft sandwiches and hearty sides. 1345 Hartford Ave, Johnston. 155 Westminster St, Providence, 282-6772. BL $-$$ the olive tap Extra virgin olive oils, aged balsamic vinegars and gourmet food and gift selections. 485 Angell St, Providence, 272-8200. $$-$$$ opa the Phoenician Authentic Lebanese food served in a fun atmosphere with hookahs. 230 Atwells Ave, Providence, 351-8282. D $-$$$ Parkside rotisserie & Bar American bistro specializing in rotisserie meats. 76 South Main St, Providence, 3310003. LD $-$$ Pat’s Italian Fine Italian favorites, natural steaks and handcrafted cocktails. 1200 Hartford Ave, Johnston, 2731444. LD $-$$$ Phil’s main Street Grille Classic comfort food; great rooftop patio. 323 Main St, Wakefield, 783-4073. BBrLD $

DeWolf Tavern the DeWolf tavern, overlooking picturesque Bristol Harbor, is housed in a 200-year-old warehouse built by the infamous DeWolf family. Amber hues, wooden beams and exposed original stonewalls immediately welcome you upon entering the restaurant. Two floors of dining rooms, along with a dockside patio, offer an inviting gourmet experience like no other. Chef Sai Viswanath, an internationally trained master chef, is at the helm of the kitchen that creatively combines the art of slow cooking with the high heat of a tandoor oven. Chicken, lamb and

Expect fine dining with Indian flair at Dewolf Tavern

seafood are infused with modern flavors that are intensified when finished off in the tandoor, a primitive cooking method that can reach up to 900 degrees. The results are always succulent and tender, abounding in intense natural flavors. The innovative cuisine has been nationally acclaimed with praises in Esquire magazine and Conde Nast Traveler, and Chef Sai was a 2012 semifinalist for the James Beard “Best Chef in the Northeast” award. A sensory experience complete with striking sunsets over the harbor, the DeWolf Tavern is a Rhode Island treasure.

Insider tip: DeWolf offers a three-course prix-fixe menu Monday through Thursday for only $22, and a Super Sunday Special three-course prix-fixe menu for $32.

259 Thames St, Bristol • 401-254-2005

For full restaurant profiles, go to rhodyBites.com 56

Providence Coal Fired Pizza Old world coal-fired pizzas, appetizers and entrees made from scratch. 385 Westminster St, Providence, 454-7499; 6105 Post Rd, North Kingstown, 885-7499. LD $-$$

727 East Ave, Pawtucket, 728-5500. LD $$ red Stripe Casual French-American bistro. 465 Angell St, Providence, 4376950; 455 Main St, East Greenwich, 398-2900. BrLD $$ rick’s roadhouse House-smoked barbecue. 370 Richmond St, Providence, 272-7675. LD $-$$ roberto’s Italian fine dining and large wine selection in the scenic East Bay. 450 Hope St, Bristol, 254-9732. D $$-$$$ rosmarin and tarragon Bar An elegant upscale restaurant featuring classic European-style cuisine with modern flair in addition to their sister bar offering handcrafted drinks and light fare. 225A Westminster St, Providence, 400-5773. BLD $$$ Sa-tang Fine Thai and Asian fusion cuisine with gluten-free selections. 402 Main St, Wakefield, 284-4220. LD $-$$ Siena Impeccable Italian cuisine. Locations in Providence, East Greenwich, Smithfield, 521-3311. D $$-$$$ Simone’s Gourmet brunch followed by upscale Mediterranean cuisine. 275 Child St, Warren, 247-1200. BBrLD $$-$$$ Sophia’s tuscan Grille BYOB eatery with classic Tuscan dishes and homemade desserts. 1729 Warwick Ave, Warwick, 732-6656. BLD $-$$$ t’s restaurant Plentiful breakfast and lunch. Locations in Cranston, East Greenwich, Narragansett, TsRestaurantRI.com. BL $ taullulah on thames Farm-driven, a la carte and prix fixe menus in a simply decorated setting. 464 Thames St, Newport, 849-2433. BrD $$$ tavern by the Sea Waterfront European/American bistro. 16 W Main St, Wickford, 294-5771. LD $$ tavern on the Water A fusion of Portuguese and French cuisine in an upscale American atmosphere. 743 Putnam Pk, Smithfield, 349-3888. LD $-$$$ tavolo Wine Bar and tuscan Grille Classic Italian cuisine with an extensive wine and beer list. 970 Douglas Pike, Smithfield, 349-4979. LD $-$$ ten rocks tapas Bar Cape Verdeaninspired small plates, handcrafted cocktails and frequent live music. 1091 Main St, Pawtucket, 728-0800. BrLD $-$$

@rhodyBites

NiNo's Pizza

the Coast Guard house Modern New England fare with Bay views. 40 Ocean Rd, Narragansett. 789-0700. LD $$-$$$

Home Of The Brick Oven Pizza Since 1957

the Saltwater tavern A comfortable and lively tavern with Mexican and American fare and a monstrous draft list. 195 Main St, Wakefield, 783-3777. BrLD $$

Outdoor Patio Is Open

theatre 82 & Cafe Hybrid art space with all day breakfast, coffee and theatre-inspired entrees. 82 Rolfe Sq, Cranston. 490-9475 BL $

500 Atwood Avenue, Cranston • 943-2020 • www.NinosPizzaRI.com

tortilla Flats Fresh Mexican, Cajun and Southwestern fare, cocktails and over 70 tequilas. 355 Hope St, Providence, 751-6777. LD $-$$

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trattoria Del mare Traditional Italian cuisine with a focus on seafood in an elegant yet relaxing atmosphere. 145 Spruce St, Providence, 273-7070. LD $$-$$$

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trinity Brewhouse Rhode Island’s original brewpub. 186 Fountain St, Providence, 453-2337. LD $-$$

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twin Willows Fresh seafood and water views in a family-friendly atmosphere. 865 Boston Neck Rd, Narragansett, 789-8153. LD $-$$

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Vanille Boulangerie French-inspired bakery teeming with cookies, pastries and breakfast and lunch specialties. 311 Westminster St, Providence. 521-3333 BL $-$$ Vanuatu Coffee roasters Artisan-crafted, single origin coffee, pastries and breakfast sandwiches. 294 Atwells Ave, Providence, 273-1586. BL $-$$ the Village Casual dining and live entertainment. 373 Richmond St, Providence, 228-7222. BrLD $$ Vinya Locally sourced small plates with Spanish flair reminiscent of the season. 225a Westminster St, Providence. D $-$$ Wes’ rib house Missouri-style barbecue, open late. 38 Dike St, Providence, 421-9090. LD $$

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What Cheer tavern & taqueria Neighborhood gastropub, taqueria and beer garden. 228 New York Ave, Providence, 680-7639. D $-$$

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Whiskey republic Delicious dockside pub fare. 515 South Water St, Providence, 588-5158. LD $-$$

Full Service Estate Liquidations 40 Years Experience in Antiques Vintage • Post Modern art deco • oriental rugs glassware

Xo Cafe Creative cocktails and New American fare. 125 N Main St, Providence, 273-9090. BrD $$

Facebook.com/rhodyBites

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881 Westminster Street, Providence • 401-861-6872 reliablejewelryandloan.com • rjlgallery@gmail.com July 2016 | Providence Monthly

Early Learning Center at

Open HOuse Thursday, July 28 8:30am-10:30am The Foundation of Learning Children of all abilities, 6 weeks to 5 years old

RSVP by July 26 cpirotto@meetingstreet.org or 401-533-9100 1000 Eddy Street, Providence • 401-533-9100 • www.meetingstreet.org/ELC

Summertime, and the livin’ is easy... at the Flats

355 Hope StreeT, Providence 401.751.6777 • tortillaflatsri.com 58

Providence Monthly | July 2016

get out

Photography by Tony Pacitti

Events / Art / Music / Theatre

Live at WaterpLace park Throughout July: There’s no better way to unwind on a Friday after a busy workweek than with WBRU’s Summer Concert Series. Co-sponsored by the City of Providence and Dunkin’ Donuts, this summer’s performers include Rock Hunt winners Le Roxy Pro with the Blue Album (7/8), Mainland with Eric and the Nothing (7/15), Lucius with Math the Band (7/22) and Aurora with Young Lincoln (7/29). Free admission. 7pm. Waterplace Park. WBRU.com

get ou t

calendar

July Events Find out what’s happening in the city this month

throughout July: Every Thursday night, don’t miss performances by Duke Robillard, The Becky Chace Band, Neal and the Vipers and Pendragon in the 20th season of the rhode island Historical Society concerts Under the elms on the lawn of the historic John Brown House. Show up hungry, because Citizen Wing, Mijos Tacos and Fugo Food Truck will take turns serving the events. RIHS members and all children under 12: Free. Non-member adults and children over 12: $10. 6:30-8pm. 52 Power Street. 3318575, RIHS.org

Magnolias, which featured Julia Roberts in the Hollywood version of this comedic story about friendship, family and love. Jenks Auditorium, Division Street, Pawtucket. 726-6860, TheCommunityPlayers.net

throughout July: Every Thursday at dusk, Movies on the Block will be showing popular movies to the public for free. Don’t forget to bring a blanket or some beach chairs and your favorite snacks, of course. This month’s movies include: Pink Floyd - The Wall (7/7), Spaceballs (7/14), The Silence of the Lambs (7/21) and The Hunger Games (7/28). 8pm. Grant’s Block, 260 Westminster Street. MoviesOnTheBlock.com

July 9, 23: All summer long WaterFire lights up the city with over 80 braziers down the Providence River. Lighting occurs shortly after sunset but the festivities continue well into the night. Downtown along Memorial Boulevard and South Main Street. WaterFire.org

throughout July: Every Sunday from 10am-4pm, treasure hunters, hipsters, families and anyone interested in vintage finds head to the providence Flea. In addition to scoping out some unique finds, there is also art, fashion, crafts, food trucks and more. Free admission. Providence River Greenway. 484-7783, ProvidenceFlea.com July 6-24: Ocean State Theatre Company presents the Broadway mega-hit Damn Yankees. This clever musical based on Douglass Wallop’s novel, The Year The Yankees Lost The Pennant, brings the story of a middle-aged baseball fanatic trading his soul to the Devil in order for his team to win the pennant to the stage. Performances start at 7:30pm, with a 2pm matinee on Sundays. 1245 Jefferson Boulevard, Warwick. 921-8262, OceanStateTheatre.org July 8-17: The Community Players will be performing Robert Harling’s Steel

July 9-10: The rhode island indian council hosts their 25th Pow Wow. This historical event celebrates Native American heritage with food, crafts and jewelry, as well as singers and dancers. Warwick City Park, 185 Asylum Road, Warwick. 781-1098, RIIndianCouncil.org

July 10: The rhode island cape verdean independence Day Festival is the oldest celebration of the Cape Verdean community in the US. Experience the culture and heritage of the Cape Verdean community through traditional music, dance, food and fun activities for the whole family. $2. 12-7pm. India Point Park. 218-0276, RICapeVerdeanHeritage.org July 12: Care for a blend of Celtic folk romance and the rhythms of contemporary dance? Acclaimed electronic violinist and New York Times Best Selling author Lindsey Stirling will be bringing her unique style of music to The Vets for a mesmerizing night of the arts that is bound to defy more than one genre. 7:30pm. 220 Weybosset Street. 4212787, TheVetsRI.com July 13: Support local artists as they compete in Move the crowd hosted by Spocka Summa. This three-round contest will showcase local artists for their chance to win various prizes. Seats are first come, first serve, starting at $12 in advance and $15 on the day of the

July 4: Fireworks and the Fourth of July. It’s a no brainer. Sure you could pile into India Point Park like you always do, or you could get out on the water. Hop on one of the Providence River Boat Company’s boats, head out from the Hot Club and be the envy of all your friends on Instagram with the best views of the fireworks in town. Reservations required; $50. 21-plus. 8:30pm. 575 South Water Street. 580-2628, ProvidenceRiverBoat.com show. 7pm. 1005 Main Street, Pawtucket. TheMetRI.com July 14: Are you ready? Because being “almost ready” won’t be enough when Dinosaur Jr. rocks their way to The Met. Don’t miss these elder statesmen of fuzzed out rock. $25 in advance; $30 day of. Doors 8pm; Show 9pm. 1005 Main Street, Pawtucket. TheMetRI.com July 17: The colombian independence Festival will kick off with a parade through the streets of Central Falls. The parade will end at Higginson Park but

the fun continues with cultural performances, food, drinks and more in this family-friendly environment. 10am-7pm. 16 Higginson Avenue, Central Falls. July 18: Returning to Providence after over two years is WWe Monday Night raw. Come out and see your favorite WWE superstars – including the return of the legendary John Cena. 7:30pm. Dunkin’ Donuts Center, 1 LaSalle Square. 331-0700, DunkinDonutsCenter.com July 21: 92 PRO-FM presents Melanie Martinez at Lupo’s Heartbreak Hotel

ONLiNe eXcLUSive For an up-to-date statewide calendar and to submit your own listings visit ProvidenceOnline.com 60

Providence Monthly | July 2016

13th ANNUAL

for her “Cry Baby” Tour. Formerly on The Voice, Melanie’s stunning voice will make this a night to remember. $29-$35. 8pm. 79 Washington Street. 331-5876, Lupos.com July 22: “Stop! In The Name Of Love” for Diana Ross and watch as the glamorous Jackie collins pays tribute to the star. Miss Collins has been entertaining for the past three decades in Boston, New York and Provincetown, and now she’s coming to RI. $21. 8pm. 28 Monument Square, Woonsocket. StadiumTheatre.com July 23: Foreigners Journey welcomes you with “Open Arms” as they perform a Journey and Foreigner tribute. They’ll perform all your favorite ballads from

two of rock’s greatest arena bands. $21$26. 8pm. 28 Monument Square, Woonsocket. StadiumTheatre.com July 23-24: Music and motorcycles will rock the Block at the Pierce Stadium. The event will feature a battle of the bands, food trucks, beer and wine pavilions, games, rides and more! $20-$85. 11am-11pm. 210 Mercer Street, East Providence. RockTheBlock2016.com

Open Studio Tour 2016 JULY 16 -17 | AUG 20 - 21

www.southcoastartists.org

July 28: the Unknown Mortal Orchestra is coming to the Fete Ballroom. Come out for a night of great rock music and hear the popular band perform their newest album, Multi-Love. $17 advance; $20 day of. 7-10pm. 103 Dike Street. 3831112, FeteMusic.com

DARTMOUTH & WESTPORT MA • LITTLE COMPTON & TIVERTON RI

July 28: Dunkin’ Donuts Center will be presenting Nobel Peace Prize recipient and worldwide education advocate, Malala Yousafzai. Malala refuses to be silent as she continues to fight for the right of everyone to receive an education worldwide. You will not want to miss this exclusive Northeast appearance by this brave, inspiring young woman. 7:30pm. Dunkin’ Donuts Center, 1 LaSalle Square. 331-0700, DunkinDonutsCenter.com

www.ediblesouthshore.com

July 2016 | Providence Monthly

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32nd Annual

Charlestown Chamber of Commerce

Seafood Festival Ninigret Park, Charlestown, RI August 5,6,7, 2016

Entertainment Schedule

Fri; Noon - 11 pm • Sat; 11 am - 11 pm • Sun; 11 am - 10 pm

FRIDAY August 5, 2016

5:00pm – 10:00pm Stella Tunes DJ/Karaoke (Small stage near amusements) 6:00pm – 8:00pm The Brothers of the Road Band (A Tribute to the Allman Brothers) 9:00pm – 11:00pm Bon Jersey (Bon Jovi Tribute Band)

Admission & Specials

Bon Jersey

$2.00 Donation to park

Saturday August 6, 2016 12:00pm – 1:30pm The Corvettes 2:30pm – 4:00pm Another Tequilla Sunrise (Tribute to the Eagles) 2:30pm – 5:30pm Seasoned Woods (Small stage near amusements) 5:00pm – 7:00pm Kashmir (Tribute to Led Zeppelin) 8:00pm – 11:00pm Dirty Deeds (AC/DC Tribute)

Kashmir

thank you to our sponsors

Cash is King

Recipient Governor’s Award for Tourism

Top 100 Events ~ American Bus Association