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Contents

Photography: Melissa Stimpson

NOvEMBEr 2013

vegetables go gourmet at The Grange

This Month 19 The “New” Big East Conference Big changes in the business of college basketball

23 Local Dining Trends What's worth a taste right now

Every Month 6 Editor’s Note 9 PM List

Urban design downtown

33 City Style A local interior designer expresses his home design 35 The Look 36 Get Fit 41 Beauty 42 Shop Talk

45 Feast Seasonal Italian cuisine on Federal Hill 46 Review 48 In the Kitchen 51 On the Menu 52 Behind the Bar 55 In the Drink 57 Dining Guide

63 Get Out Brown reprises A Street Car Named Desire 64 Calendar 67 Theatre 68 Music 71 Art

72 The Last Detail El Rancho Grande celebrates the Day of the Dead

11 Providence Pulse A long lost sword returns to Brown 13 City 14 Malcontent 16 Scene in PVD

On the Cover:

The Grange photographed by Melissa Stimpson.

November 2013 | Providence Monthly

Editor’s Note

PROVIDENCE MONTHLY

Publishers Barry Fain Richard Fleischer John Howell Publishing Director Jeanette St. Pierre Executive Editor Julie Tremaine Associate Editor Grace Lentini Editorial Assistant Dale Rappaneau Special Projects Manager John Taraborelli Digital Manager Samantha Pezza

Good Taste in PVD To say that Providence has good food is like saying that Tom and Gisele are kind of a good looking couple or that Citizen Kane is, you know, an ok movie. This city has an embarrassment of culinary riches, and we’re regularly getting national attention for it. Saveur magazine just recognized Providence as one of the world’s best small cities for restaurants and dining in their 2013 Culinary Travel Awards. Food & Wine recently named us a top foodie destination, and we’re regularly racking up nominations for the James Beard Awards, which recognize chefs, restaurants and bar programs. Unless you’ve never eaten a meal in Providence, this is old news; you already know how good the food is

here. But you’ve also probably got a list of places you’ve wanted to try, but haven’t managed to get to yet. This month, take our advice on where you should go next. We take a look at what’s happening in city dining: culinary trends, new locations, must-try dishes. Read on, and then take a bite for yourself.

Art Director Karli Hendrickson Assistant Art Director Meghan H. Follett Advertising Design Director Layheang Meas Graphic Designer Veatsna Sok Account Managers Louann DiMuccioDarwich Ann Gallagher Nicole Greenspun

Kristine Mangan Elizabeth Riel Dan Schwartz Kimberly Tingle

Illustrators Alison Blackwell

Caleigh McGrath

Photographers Amy Amerantes Tiffany Medrano Mike Braca Katie Poor Stacey Doyle Tim Siekiera Corey Grayhorse Melissa Stimpson Contributing Writers

Contributor Michael Clark Writer

Keith Andrade Sarah Bertness Michael Clark Emily Dietsch Alicia Kamm Molly Lederer

Stephanie Obodda Cristy Raposo Jenn Salcido Jen Senecal Eric Smith Erin Swanson Interns

Anita Baffoni Courtney Melo Paige Snyder

Victoria Spencer Alison Young Members Of:

Freelance writer Michael Clark moved to Rhode Island from California in 2007. After graduating with his Master’s degree from Brown University in Providence, he went on to work as an environmental consultant. He serves as Board Chairman for Capital Good Fund and enjoys writing, running, music and cheering on his favorite team – the Liverpool Football Club. Michael lives in Providence with his wife and two daughters. This month, he’s hot on the trail of a decades-old mystery at Brown. Check out Pulse to read all about it.

Audited by:

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Providence Monthly | November 2013

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On ProvidenceOnline.com Check our website for weekly updates on events (including our weekend best bets roundup) and other cool stories happening around town. This month, we’ve also got expanded content from three of this issue’s stories: Check out our web-only interview with new Big East commissioner Val Ackerman, as featured in our story on pg. 19. See two performances, including an exclusive new song, from Dylan Sevey and the Gentlemen, as featured in our music column on pg. 68. Try out a recipe from Chef Nick Maete of The Bradford, as featured in our dining review on pg. 46.

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Inserted into this month’s issue you’ll find our Great Local Gifts holiday shopping guide. It’s a handy resource to find some of the fun, creative and super cool gifts available at your local independent businesses. The gorgeous cover photo shows one of our favorite models (you may recognize her from past Providence Monthly covers or her stint as Miss Rhode Island), Amy Diaz, wearing the Winter Collection from John Medeiros Jewelry. His pieces, which are handmade in the US, are available locally from Tickle’s in Swansea, Charming Treasures in North Scituate, the Hospitality Shop at Kent Hospital in Warwick, and Wright’s Gift Shop in Harrisville or at JohnMedeiros.com.

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By now you should have checked out RhodyBites.com, our statewide dining guide. We’re adding new restaurants and expanding profiles all the time, so you can browse the best in local dining and plan your next meal. But now RhodyBites is also on Facebook (facebook.com/RhodyBites) and Twitter (@RhodyBites). Be sure to like and follow us for updates, news items, tantalizing food photos and prize giveaways. And if you haven’t already, check out RhodyBites.com before dinner tonight. Bon appetit!

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November 2013 | Providence Monthly

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Providence Pulse

Photography: Jonathan Beller

CITY / MALCONTENT / SCENE IN PVD

The Great Sword Heist Decades ago, Brown University This priceless artifact is back home at Brown

was robbed of a priceless Tiffany sword. After a search to recover it and legal battles along the way, the school has finally recovered it. Turn the page to read about the epic duel of getting it back.

November 2013 | Providence Monthly

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Pulse |

City

From Pg 11

Brown’s Excalibur

A Long Lost Tiffany Sword Returns to Brown At three o’clock on November 7, Brown University will hold a ceremony at the Annmary Brown Memorial to mark the return of a priceless Tiffany presentation sword that mysteriously disappeared from the memorial in the mid 1970s. The sword will be displayed and speakers will discuss its historical significance as well as the extraordinary 36-year effort to retrieve it – which concluded in June – when a Virginia court ruled after a two-year trial that Donald Tharpe, the noted Civil War artifacts collector, return it to Brown. The sword in question was gifted to Rush C. Hawkins, the husband of Nicolas Brown’s granddaughter, Annmary, in recognition of his Civil War service. When Annmary died, in 1903, Hawkins set up a public memorial to house his and her remains, along with his extensive collection of Civil War artifacts, paintings and rare books. Built in 1907, the granite memorial operated independently until 1948, when Brown took over. In 1977, the sword turned up missing. In 2010, a Civil War historian saw the sword on display in Newport News, VA and reported it to Brown, who filed suit to reclaim it. It’s now back, locked away in a vault at the office of Brown’s General Counsel, Beverly Ledbetter. Ledbetter, who will speak at the ceremony, expects quite a gathering: “I can’t tell you how many people have called about it.” –Michael Clark

The Malcontent

Identity Crisis

Is the NCAA’s real business college athletics or grooming future pros?

Photography: Jonathan Beller

Pop quiz: What is the NCAA? A) The National Collegiate Athletic Association, the organizing and governing body for college athletics B) The de facto farm system for the NFL and NBA C) A multi-billion dollar monopoly that is at best self-serving and disingenuous, at worst corrupt, hypocritical and exploitive The correct answer should be D) All of the above. As college athletics fully emerge back into the spotlight this month, with football season well under way and basketball season tipping off (for more on that, see our feature on the new Big East on pg. 19), the NCAA will continue to (mal)function as one organization overseeing two distinctly different and largely incompatible purposes. On the one hand, you have the vast majority of college athletics, the NCAA’s stated reason for existence. This encompasses thousands of schools at dozens of levels of play. The student athletes in this system play a whole range of sports beyond basketball and football, and the vast majority of them pursue careers in something other than sports after graduation. Our own Providence College basketball program fits nicely into this category. On the other side of the NCAA spectrum, you have the small minority of big money football and basketball

programs at big time schools in powerhouse conferences. They exist, if not in stated purpose than certainly in actual execution, solely to generate huge revenues for their schools while serving as a pipeline for elite talents on their way to the pros. Think football at Alabama, LSU or Oregon, or basketball at Kentucky, Duke or Syracuse. This creates a tremendously unfair playing field for the smaller, more genuinely collegiate programs (like our own PC), which cannot possibly hope to keep pace with the elites, but nonetheless must compete in the same conferences and tournaments. Therein lies only one of the major conundrums at the root of the NCAA’s existence (there are more than we have space to discuss here). Unlike baseball, football and basketball do not have an extensive and elaborate farm system to develop talent for the major leagues. (The NBA established a developmental league in 2001, but it is not nearly on par with either minor league baseball or college basketball.) Thus, in baseball, an immensely gifted teenage prospect whose only aim is to play the sport professionally (like, for example, Anaheim Angels phenom Mike Trout), can head straight into the lower reaches of the pros and work his way up through the system without ever setting foot on a college campus. A certifiable basketball or football star-in-waiting, however,

must pretend to want an education so that he can enter the top tier of college athletics that will then pretend to educate him. Of course, the athlete’s true purpose is to use college ball as a stepping stone to the pros, just as the school’s (and by extension, the NCAA’s) true purpose is to make money off of him. The real problem here isn’t that the whole process is about money, but rather that it pretends not to be. Since taking the big money out of big money college athletics isn’t an option, maybe the real solution is to take the college out of it. Maybe the only way to clean up the NCAA is by taking the budding professional athletes with no interest in an education out of its system so that they can focus on developing their talents without pretending to be scholars. The NBA already has already expanded its developmental league for the coming season, and given both America’s seemingly insatiable appetite for football and the NFL’s seemingly endless ability to make money, I have to think they could find a way to make minor league football an immensely profitable endeavor. As long as the NCAA continues to be both the developmental league for two big money sports and the governing body for a whole range of college athletics, it will continue to corrupt the former and suffocate the latter. –John Taraborelli

November 2013 | Providence Monthly

Pulse |

City

PM Experiment

The Art of Shaving

Testing a gentleman’s barbershop

Get Around

various shave creams, skin softeners and aftershaves, all massaged in with care; impeccable wielding of a straight razor; and finally a cold towel to seal the deal. The whole process took nearly an hour-and-a-half, hardly the kind of thing most of us can easily fit into an average day – but you should try to. You don’t get this extravagant a treatment because you simply need a haircut. And you don’t do it because of how much better you’ll look (which you wil) or because of how smooth your skin will feel (which it will). You do this for the ceremony of it. You do it for the attention to detail. You do it because you feel pampered, yet still undoubtedly like a man. You do it to remind yourself of the beautiful but inessential value of investing the time to do something the right way. Chez Moustache, 91 Hope St. 400-5500, chez-moustache.com –John Taraborelli

Get Your Geek On

A New Car App Will Have you Riding in Uber-style

Unique Proposals at Comic Con

What does Providence now have in common with Boston, L.A., London and Shanghai? We are all home to the technology-driven car service, Uber. The next time you need a ride to the airport, or simply to run errands around town, just tap the Uber app on your iPhone or android, enter your pick-up and drop-off location and an Uber driver will be on their way to pick you up. While you can’t make reservations, you can track your driver’s ETA and estimated fare (minimun $12), and because you enter your credit card number when you register the App, there’s no money, including a tip, that needs to be exchanged. There’s even an option to split the fare with friends. The San Francisco company, who launched here in September, chose Providence because they desired to be a part of our city’s innovation and creative lifestyle. Yet, Uber understands we don’t all have smartphones. No worries. Text them your location or visit them on-line to catch a ride. And, not that this is how you’ll always use them, you might want to know the NFL has contracted Uber to take their players home after nights out overimbibing. Download the Uber app or visit www.uber.com. - Wendy Grossman

The cruel separation of long, long time and far, far away galaxies has kept you, Lando Calrissian, from professing your love for Batman or Catwoman. But no longer. For a few brief days at Rhode Island Comic Con, utility belt, spandex and glorious cape can meet for the wedding of several hundred centuries. And if you’re lucky, Billy Dee Williams, Julie Newmar or Adam West might sign your marriage certificate. It’s all part of a promotion for the convention celebrating all things comic, cult and pop culture. Organizers are offering superfans the ultimate chance for the wedding or vow renewal of their dreams anywhere on the convention floor – cosplay highly encouraged. So whether you’ve always imagined an Adventure Time wedding or your Princess Leia costume is just the only white dress you own, November 2 and 3 could be your chance. You just need a marriage license and comic book artist/ordained minister Rusty Gilligan will perform the ceremony, appointments optional. Gilligan, your witnesses and Comic Con artists will sign your marriage certificate, decorated with art from your favorite corner of fandom: Sci-Fi, comic books or, of course, zombies. Holy bouquet toss, Batman! ricomiccon.com –Emily Jones

Providence Monthly | November 2013

Illustration: Alison Blackwell

I’ve had two barbers since I was 14. The current one has a small, nondescript shop with two chairs, the second of which I’ve never seen used. It’s quiet and he doesn’t offer a lot of services. There’s never any music – only talk radio. He knows exactly how to cut my hair without being told, and I’m usually in and out in about 20 minutes, during which very little is said. It might be my most functional and mutually beneficial relationship. Suffice to say, my grooming habits remain pretty basic, but I’m occasionally tasked with visiting a new men’s barbershop to write about the experience. I’ve met with mixed results. America: The Barbershop® (not the actual name) was basically a Super Bowl party that cut hair, but I also learned the virtues of a hot shave at a “men’s grooming center.” I had been curious about Chez Moustache, nestled in a beautiful old house on Hope Street. The name made me wonder if I was going to step into some overly precious historic recreation with a vested and bowtied barber twirling his moustache and looking as if he belongs behind a Park Slope cocktail bar, or if it was a legit barbershop. The answer, fortunately, is that it’s legit. Entering the small, homey front room, it’s immediately apparent that this is a quiet, relaxing place. Classic jazz plays at moderate volume. There are cozy chairs and a thoughtful selection of magazines. I’m offered coffee or tea. (They also offer Scotch.) I’m promptly ushered into one of only two barber chairs, where Master Barber Cheryl Dumont gets me settled in, holds a brief question and answer session about my hair and preferences, and then gets right to work, combing and snipping, chatting and inquiring. The haircut is solid, but you can get a decent haircut anywhere – the reason you come to a place like this is for a proper hot shave with a straight razor. First, there is a methodical trimming and shaping of my beard and moustache. Then the real treatment begins: It’s a multi-step process involving multiple hot towels;

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Cocktail Week got competitive when a dozen bartenders and hundreds of people packed the house at Fête for our first ever Cocktail Competition, sponsored by Pernod Ricard and Bottles. There were behind-the-bar theatrics, Steely Dan and cocktails a-plenty, but in the end, The Grange’s Joseph Haggard emerged victorious. Cheers to all of our competitors. Photography by

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Providence Monthly | November 2013

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Scene in PVD

Music lovers gathered at the Alpine Country Club in Cranston to support the Victoria Alviti Music Foundation. Jazz on the Green was an afternoon of food, music and fun. Proceeds went to support music in public schools. victoriaalviti.org Photography by Mike Braca.

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Providence Monthly | November 2013

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The Big easT

Rises from the Ashes Conference realignment could put basketball back at center court in Providence By David Taraborelli

Photo courtesy of Providence College

ave Gavitt would be proud. After all, back in 1979, when he created the Big East Conference, this is what he had in mind: a conference made up of schools where basketball was king. And it was headquartered right here in downtown Providence. In fact, the very first Big East Tournament was held at the Providence Civic Center, now the Dunk. Unfortunately, that dream, although immensely successful, took a hiatus for a while. ESPN had burst onto the cable network stage, bringing with it its insatiable appetite for sports programming in general, and college football, in particular. At the time there were only four Division 1 football schools in the conference. If the Big East was going to get a piece of that huge pie of money, it needed to add schools with a strong football cache. Thus began the unraveling of Dave Gavitt’s dream. Football powers like Miami, Virginia Tech and West Virginia were added to enhance the conference’s football stature. So what if they didn’t fit geographically? They were “football schools.” More were to come. Soon seven northeastern basketball-playing schools became 16 geographically, scholastically and athletically diverse partners, with the football-dominant schools calling the shots. But as the lure of bigger bowlappearance payouts came into play, the best of the football schools began to bail out, headed for stronger football conferences that promised more money. Virginia Tech, Miami and West Virginia were the first to go, followed by Boston College, who went to the Atlantic Coast Conference. Those schools were replaced with the likes of Houston, Southern Methodist, Tulane and East Carolina, schools with weak football programs and even weaker basketball teams. Finally, seven non-football playing Catholic schools said “enough.” They became known as the “Catholic 7.”

The idea of separating from this hodge-podge of institutions had actually been percolating for several months, according to the Reverend Brian Shanley, President of Providence College. “People had been whispering in our ears that we should break away and form our own conference,” he explains. When Pittsburgh and Syracuse, two of the conference’s stronger basketball programs, left for the Atlantic Coast Conference (ACC), there was still the hope of holding things together. But when Rutgers announced it was leaving for the Big Ten Conference, shock waves rippled through the Big East. Everyone knew that there would be more defections. Connecticut, Cincinnati and Louisville were all vying for the next call from the ACC. When Louisville was chosen, it became obvious that trying to keep the status quo was

All Big East selection Bryce Cotton

not going to work. But the seminal event in the decision of the Catholic schools to break away was the creation of a new allsports network by Fox, Fox Sports 1. Like ESPN 30 years before, Fox Sports was hungry for basketball programming. “I don’t know who contacted who first, but talks started, and Fox said, ‘If you guys do this, we’d be interested,’” recalls Father Shanley. The decision was made. Having been pushed around and bullied by the football schools long enough, the presidents of Providence College, St. John’s, Georgetown, Seton Hall, Villanova, Marquette and DePaul renounced their membership in the Big East and struck out on their own, forming a new, basketball-centric conference. And when the opportunity to buy the Big East name from the remaining

schools (now to be called the American Athletic Conference) was offered, they jumped at it. They also were able to keep Madison Square Garden, basketball’s mecca, as the site of its conference tournament, as it had been for three decades. Those two events were major factors in the formation of the “new Big East.” The second order of business, after solidifying the new membership, was to consummate the television deal with Fox. The network insisted on 12 teams, but the presidents of the seven members felt that ten was the perfect number initially. Butler, having been to the national championship games in 2010 and 2011, and Xavier, a school with a perennially powerful basketball program, were lured away from the Atlantic 10. Creighton, from Conference USA, completed the initial ten. The original plan was to begin play in the 2014-15 sports year, but that was pushed up to 2013-14, creating a sizeable problem for the sports whose seasons began in the fall. Nevertheless, it was full speed ahead. The new Big East is here: ten schools where basketball is king, just like it was back in 1979. So what are the prospects for this new conference, and what does it mean for Providence and our local team, the PC Friars? The new Big East will not be headquartered here in Providence, but rather in New York City. (The American Athletic Conference will, however, remain here, at least until the lease on its downtown office space runs out.) It was felt that the new conference needed to be close by to Fox Sports. “I couldn’t vote for that,” said Father Shanley. “This is my home town.” But the decision was made to make the conference headquarters in New York City. There is a new commissioner, Val Ackerman. There were plenty of candidates for the job, but the presidents

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Providence Monthly | November 2013

were looking for someone who had worked extensively in basketball, had taken a start-up operation to success and could relate to college athletes. Val had a long history with basketball, having worked for the NBA as an attorney. When the NBA sought someone to get the new WNBA off the ground, Val got the call. Having played basketball at Virginia, she understood college athletes. And, as if she needed more cache, she was a devotee of Dave Gavitt. “One of the reasons I took this job was to carry on Dave’s legacy,” Ackerman says. In addition, she has some lofty goals. “We want to see a national champion in basketball, and we want to see the women’s programs be competitive on a national level. And maybe develop new programs, combine the heritage of the old Big East with a spirit of innovation. We have added several schools as associate members: Rutgers, Temple, Old Dominion and Connecticut for field hockey only, for instance.” The conference schools reside in many of the major media markets, such as New York, Philadelphia, Chicago, Milwaukee, Cincinnati, Indianapolis and Washington, D.C. And there is the Fox Sports 1 contract; additionally, the conference will air some of its games on CBS and maybe even ESPN. The national exposure should be as strong as ever, which will be invaluable when it comes to recruiting top-flight talent. Although the marquee sport will be basketball, the conference will host other sports. According to Bob Driscoll, Associate Vice-President for Athletics at Providence College, the conference should be a national power in soccer, and schools like Denver and Navy may be added as associate members for lacrosse only, giving the conference a national status in that sport. As for Providence College, with the exception of hockey (the hockey Friars play in Hockey East), “every sport that PC fields will participate in the Big East,” says Driscoll. The question remains, how will Providence College’s basketball program

fare in the new conference? The answer is very well. It did not enjoy much success over the last two decades in the old Big East, winning one conference tournament championship and for the most part dwelling in the bottom tier of what was considered one of the two or three best basketball conferences in the nation. But head coach Ed Cooley, a Providence native who played ball at Central High School, has infused new life into the program in his two years here. Last year’s recruiting class was considered one of the best in the country and this year’s looks to be another strong one. He’s already received verbal commitments from three top-flight recruits. And two transfers who sat out last season are now eligible. Combine those with All Big East selection Bryce Cotton and the conference’s most improved player, Kadeem Batts, and the Dunk should be rocking this winter. So what does the coach think about this new situation, and what are the pluses and minuses as they pertain to his program? Will his recruiting be helped or hindered? “Fox Sports 1 is a game changer. All of our conference games will be nationally televised. Parents will be able to see their kids play,” says Cooley. “If anything, the new conference will help recruiting. I think the ACC is considered the best basketball conference in the country, and we’re right there with them.” How about the loss of national powers like UConn, Louisville and Syracuse? “I don’t see any impact at all,” he says. Combine the turn-around in the talent level with a new, basketball-oriented conference – in which the Friars will be much more compatible with their fellow schools – and a visionary commissioner, the future of both the PC basketball program and the new Big East Conference looks bright. Dave Gavitt passed away a couple of years ago, possibly from a broken heart as he watched the dream he had created morph into something unrecognizable. It’s a good bet he’s looking down and smiling now.

Photo courtesy of Providence College

PC Friars Coach Ed Cooley

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Providence Monthly | November 2013

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Trend No. 1 b

Gourmet vegetarian Food Once upon a time, the best a vegetarian could hope for dining options at most restaurants was a salad or some pasta in cream sauce. But really, how much mushroom ravioli can one person eat? Longstanding vegetarian favorite Garden Grille in Oak Hill has been serving creative preparations of tempeh for decades, and Julian’s on Broadway has long been a best bet if you need to feed one vegan and one carnivore at the same time, but this town wanted more, and we finally have it. Asian food is always a good option for vegetarians, so the vegan Veggie Fun was a natural evolution. The kosher-certified, meat-free restaurant

opened last year on Dorrance Street, and serves everything from Japanese (Yam and Taro Tempura) and Thai (Pad Thai) to Korean (Bim-Bi Bap) and Chinese (General Tso’s Soy Protien). For a while, we also had Sprout, a vegetarian food truck – but that closed down production in July. For those people who were crying for more veggie variety in town, Veggie Fun and Sprout sated our appetites as we waited (and waited) for The Grange to open… but it was totally worth the wait. Another restaurant by the owner and chef of Garden Grille, The Grange takes vegetables and elevates them to fine dining status. Take, for example, their Roasted Carrot entrée, which comes over a lentil and fennel stew with creamed leeks, roasted turnips and saffron crema. Or the Cassoulet, made with Maine white beans, smoked onion and poached eggs. The Po’Boy, made with fried oyster mushrooms, cabbage slaw, pickles and remoulade on a (trend alert) Foremost pretzel roll is a must-try, even for carnivores. veggiefunri.com, providencegrange.com

Veggie Fun takes vegetables to new heights

Find local brews on tap at the English Cellar Alehouse

Trend No. 2 b

Photography: Melissa Stimpson

Local Booze Everywhere Is there anything more Rhode Island than the do-it-yourself mentality? I think not. With our ever-growing craft brewing industry (greater Providence saw three brewery launches this year alone), it’s hard not to “sample” a new brew every night, especially when they’re available at pretty much every local place worth its salt. I’m not suggesting that you do this… I am also not discouraging you from doing this either. If you were to, for example, take a tour of Providence and perhaps hit up as many places as possible to imbibe as many different local brews as possible, this is a “suggestion” for such a course of action. Start from the west and head east.

It’s no secret, or perhaps it is, that the West Side has a ridiculous amount of good food and drink. To start this adventure, head to Julian’s for the Foolproof Backyahd IPA, brewed right in Pawtucket. Then make a stop over at The Avery and have them make you a mean cocktail using Sons of Liberty Uprising Whiskey (I hear they have a pumpkin infused whiskey this time of year) or grab a Greysale brew. This might be a good time to get some air. Make your way downtown to The Eddy. Jay Carr will pour you the best Revival dry Irish nitro stout you can get your hands – or lips – on. Walk a few blocks and find yourself at Local 121. Their cozy yet lively atmosphere is the perfect companion while imbibing on a Trinity Brewhouse IPA. Call a cab and head over to the English Cellar Alehouse on Thayer and have them pour you a classic to end the night – a Narragansett lager. Foolproofbrewing.com, revivalbrewing. com, narragansettbeer.com, bucketbrewery.com, solspirits.com

Trend No. 3 b

Pretzel Everything

1 3

All of a sudden, the entire city figured out that serving food on and around pretzels made everything more delicious. This is mostly thanks to Foremost Baking Company, which supplies places like The Grange and The Eddy with their pretzel breads – but even big chains are catching on.

Providence Monthly | November 2013

5 1. ForeMoST BAkiNG CoMpANy

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Photography: Providence Media

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Providence Monthly | November 2013

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Trend No. 4 b

Tiny Dining For a long time, bigger was better. Not so anymore. Just think about how ridiculous people still driving Hummers look on the highway nowadays, when in the past there was a contingency of people who believed those monster SUVs were $80,000 well spent. Blame the economy, or a cultural groundswell for quality over quantity, but small is in fashion nowadays. This has translated to the restaurant industry, as well. Just look at the proliferation of small plates menus. Downtown, The Dorrance, Tazza, Flan y Ajo and Bodega Malasana all serve tapas or a selection of little bites. The same goes for Succotash in the Jewelry District, Cook and Brown’s bar menu on the East Side… really more places than you can count. But, the trend extends beyond just little food. Tiny restaurants have been popping up all over town. On the West Side, Kitchen opened earlier this year, serving breakfast and lunch to just over a dozen possible people at a time. So too with north, a restaurant serving innovative food that can best

be described as “chef porn” in Luongo Square. It accommodates only about two dozen in a sitting. The same goes for Fratelli’s (a burger and gelato joint in the Biltmore Garage development) and Figidini (a wood-grilled pizzeria next door to Fratelli’s). birch, Ben Sukle’s new restaurant that’s in the old Tini space, continues the emphasis on delicate food in a small setting: the communal bar, the restaurant’s only seating, holds just under 20 patrons. Why? The short answer is sustainability. Smaller restaurants equal lower costs. The longer answer, though, has to do with quality control – turning out 20 dinners in an hour allows chefs to be much more meticulous than if they were serving double or triple that – and connectedness to customers. Dining in a small restaurant is an intimate experience: no guest is forgotten, no unhappy diner overlooked. It’s easier to get recommendations from your server, to talk about how your food is prepared. Given the larger culinary trend toward total knowledge about your meal, that’s no small thing. Find Bodega Malasana, Kitchen, Fratelli’s and Figidini on Facebook. thedorrance.com, tazzacaffe.com, flanyajo. com, foodbynorth.com, birchrestaurant.com, succotashri.com

north’s ever-changing menu has been garnering regional attention

birch’s intimate setting encourages interaction between the diner and the food

Trend No. 5 b

Photography: Melissa Stimpson

The West Side as the dining destination There was a time in Providence’s culinary history when the East Side was widely acknowledged as the foodie part of town. It makes total sense: fine dining establishments like Adesso and The Gatehouse drew big crowds practically every night. And while there are still a huge number of great restaurants on the East Side, the West Side is emerging as a dining destination in its own right. We know, we know. The last thing you need to read is another story about how the West Side is the cool part of town. But consider the evidence here.

Favorites like Broadway Bistro, Nicks on Broadway and Loie Fuller’s have been serving crowds for years. But there’s a new crop of restaurants – north, The Grange and Kitchen among them – that are generating a lot of buzz. Most of that buzz is local: The Grange won audience favorite in the I Heart Providence East vs. West Culinary Competition earlier this year. The long-awaited West Side Diner finally opened last month, and people are anticipating new restaurants from the owners of both Julian’s and The Duck and Bunny on Westminster Street later this year. But, the buzz isn’t all from Providence. North was reviewed in the Boston Globe this summer. Reviewer Devra First said, “Maybe once a year, if I’m lucky, I get to eat somewhere that blows my mind. I just got my taste for 2013. Which is why I’m going to tell you to get in a car and drive to Providence to eat at a tiny restaurant that doesn’t take reservations. It will be worth it.” foodbynorth.com, loiefullers.com, broadwaybistrori.com, nicksonbroadway. com, juliansprovidence.com, theduckandbunny.com, providencegrange.com, find Kitchen on Facebook

Trend No. 6 b

Oceanto-Table Eating Farm-to-table dining is old news, but for a good reason: it’s everywhere now. There is a simple satisfaction in knowing that the grass-fed beef or thinly sliced fennel on your plate is grown only 20 miles away. However, the same hasn’t been true of what we’re harvesting from our waterways. And really, we’re the Ocean State; it only makes sense that we should treat our seafood the same way. Luckily for us, there are those who are making this ocean-to-table concept a reality. Take Sarah Schumann, a local fisherwoman passionate about sustainability. She is at the forefront of the Eating with the Ecosystem movement. This initiative works with local restaurants, chefs and fisherman to create one-ofa-kind events. The fishermen take their haul-of-the-day to a restaurant and the chef prepares a multi-course meal in celebration of the bounty. During the dinner, the fisherman explain where the seafood came from, their habitat, how they co-habitate with other organisms (such as the relationship between sea scallops and red hake), where the menu item is on the food chain and how overfishing of one species can affect others. eating-

withtheecosystem.org Wild Rhody – a fisherman-owned seafood distribution company - often partners with Sarah at the Eating with the Ecosystem events. They are the ones who caught that skate earlier that day in Narragansett Bay, which is now on your plate. Lifelong fishermen Chris Brown and Steve Arnold started Wild Rhody out of a need to create stability for themselves as fishermen, directly understand what the seafood demands were in the industry and to provide a fresher alternative to restaurants and retailers (such as Roxy’s Lobster food truck and Chef Derek Wagner of Nicks on Broadway). brownfamilyseafood.com Born of this collaboration between fishermen and chefs is Trace and Trust. It is a way for anyone to track where their seafood came from and when it was caught. Never before has such a connection been able to be made – unless of course you just happened to know a guy that owns a boat. traceandtrust.com While these initiatives have been around for a little while, it’s only recently that local restaurants have caught on in a big way. So whether you’re noshing on Poppasquash oysters at Hemenway’s, Atlantic sea scallops at birch traceable through Trace and Trust, Atlantic mahi mahi hauled by the F/V Aces High docked at Point Judith at Local 121 or summer flounder at The Dorrance from Narragansett Bay caught by F/V Sweet Misery docked in Newport, seafood across our state is more personal than it ever has been, and we’d like to keep it that way.

Nicks on Broadway hosted the first Eating with the Ecosystem event

Eating with the Ecosystem founder Sarah Schumann

Trend No. 7 b

Trend No. 8 b

Southern Flair

Niche Dining

We might not have a true Southern restaurant in Providence, but local chefs are adding some Dixie flavors to their menus. Three restaurants that opened this year – Succotash, Public Kitchen & Bar and Circe – all offer versions on the irresistible Chicken and Waffles. Downtown, Circe serves Buttermilk Fried Chicken and Waffles for brunch. In the Renaissance Providence Hotel, the brand new

There’s something to be said for doing one thing, and doing it well. Food trucks have been doing this for years, but brick and mortar restaurants are catching on, too. Two restaurants with that philosophy have opened this fall: UMelt on Weybosset Street, which offers gourmet grilled cheeses like The Turkey Brie and The Vermonster;

Public has a variation including buttermilk fried chicken, a brown butter maple glaze, cheddar jalapeño waffle and herb butter. In the Jewelry District, Succotash serves Fried Chicken and Waffles among their extensive (for Providence) Southern offerings like cornmeal-crusted catfish, fried pickles, grits and biscuits with gravy. circerestaurantbar.com, publickitchenprovidence.com, succotashri.com

Providence Monthly | November 2013

and Ken’s Ramen in the Biltmore Garage development on Washington Street, which serves, shockingly, variations on ramen. umelt. fireandwatergroup.com, find Ken’s Ramen on Facebook

Photography: Mike Braca

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Urban Design 1. The biggest feature in my kitchen is the reclaimed wood countertop and backsplash. It’s subfloor that came from a mill in Pawtucket. I worked with my brother who owns his own woodworking shop. We milled the wood and worked with the existing footprint of the kitchen. 2. I maximized space by pushing the cabinetry up to the 10’ ceiling. It’s where I store a lot of things I don’t use on a daily basis. Capturing space is a big thing. All of the cabinetry is from Ikea. The doors I had custom painted; it was a way to save some money. I used tile under the counter; it’s a new application of tile and a way to create some interest. 3. The lampshade is vintage, but I had a cord produced by Rejuvenations.

I’ve had that shade for 12 years and I couldn’t figure out the right application for it until I redid the kitchen. 4. The dishes are jadeite. I’ve been colleting them since college. It’s a bit of an obsession, but it’s a nice way to inject color into a space without being overwhelming. The other dishes are from Curatorium on Wickenden Street. 5. The stools are reproductions I found at Target. I use that store as a way to inject trends into a space while keeping the investment small. You can stay current while not renovating your entire space. This kitchen is highly comfortable, it has a ton of storage and it’s very urban, which is appropriate for where I live. It’s a nice blend of old and new, and high-end and affordable.

November 2013 | Providence Monthly

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Providence Monthly | November 2013

Always Starving Clothing

What’s Always Starving? Scott (left): Always Starving is a clothing company that started about four months ago. We’ve been friends for a long time and had some success a year ago with a Bruins-themed shirt and decided to get back to creating shirts this past summer. Currently, we are focusing on making quality t-shirts that have classic style without being too plain. It’s a hard balance to strike: Simple, but interesting. We design everything locally and the tees are screen printed locally. We have a pocket tee waiting in the wings; the pocket fabric was made in the US then sewn right here in Providence at Kreatelier on Hope Street. Tell me about your personal style. Chris (right): I like clothes that are brighter in color and stand out. Our first line features some bright and bold color choices and that made it a great summer release. Scott: When I started designing the first Always Starving line, I was really into heavily graphic tees and I think that really came through in three tees we released. Lately I’ve been looking for tees that are more versatile, that you can dress up, layer or wear on their own. Something that is simple but interesting - I think that’s really important right now.

Photography: Corey Grayhorse

Where can we get it? You can visit us at AlwaysStarving.com. We have our tees up there and a small blog that we are just starting. We are looking to get into some brick and mortar shops within the next year. What’s the best piece of fashion advice you ever got? Chris: The only fashion advice I can recall ever getting was a few weeks ago when I showed up at Scott’s house. He yelled at me for never wearing a watch. Scott: I’ve never been given any fashion advice, but I can give you a quote that I’ve enjoyed as of late, it’s from Cary Grant: “Simplicity, to me, has always been the essence of good taste.” That has been ringing in my head as I approach the designs for our collection to be released in the late fall.

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City Style |

Get Fit

By Jen Senecal

A New Challenge

Using your own body against you (in a good way) The very first time I saw a bunch of TRX straps hanging from the ceiling of a gym, I was pretty convinced they were either some kind of crazy torture stretching devices or that Christian Grey had just left the building. (Neither of which I entirely objected to.) But when I realized that TRX (Total Body Resistance Exercises) is actually a solid all-over strength, balance, flexibility and performance-enhancing workout, I was chomping at the bit (or strap) to try it out. Born out of the Navy SEALs and used by people at all fitness levels, TRX uses your bodyweight while leveraging gravity to perform hundreds of exercises. Not only does it strengthen and tighten your muscles, but also builds endurance, hardens your core and gives you one hell of a cardiovascular workout. When I first walked into PE Fitness in Hope Artiste Village, where I would be taking a Tabata TRX class, I was struck by the amazing space: the highceilinged, brightly-lit loft lined its spacious walls with spin bikes, treadmills, a rower, kettlebells, large tires, power racks, TRX straps, inspirational quotes and a personal Olympic and strength training area. Studio owner Lisa St. Denis and personal trainer Laurel immediately greeted me. For the past 20 years, Lisa has dedicated herself to health and well-being. With personal training, strength and conditioning certifications in everything from TRX, Spinning and Triathlon Coaching to Crossfit, Bosu Ball, Kettlebells and more, Lisa’s years of experience, coaching and knowledge makes her a credible source in the world of sports and athleticism. To say I was eager to learn from her was like saying you can never have too many pairs of sneakers. Truth in the purest form.

Lisa and Laurel showed me around and explained what we would be doing in the class. This TRX class was done with Tabata training, a high intensity interval training method where one specific exercise would take a total of four minutes, broken down into rounds of 20 seconds of nonstop movement, followed by a ten second break, for a total of eight rounds. Simply put, for the first half of class, we’d be using TRX exercises in this format. Sounds simple enough, right? To warm up, we began outside, jogging up and down the lovely (and long) hill alongside the studio. Back inside, we began... with squat jumps. Gripping onto the handles of the TRX straps, to hold you in place with resistance, we jumped and squatted and jumped and squatted – all in one fluid motion, for 20 seconds. After a ten second rest, we did it again, until eight rounds like this were completed. With my legs already starting to feel like jelly, we moved into a series of a bunch of other exercises done in the same timely (read: heart

thumping) manner, from pike planks to atomic push-ups to low rows and bicep curls (with water breaks in between). I’ll admit that I pride myself on being fit and handling just about anything thrown at me in the fitness arena, but I was ten minutes into this workout and it was completely kicking my ass. A couple more outdoor jogs were intertwined into the Tabata rounds before the class switched gears and moved to one-minute long circuits of straight TRX exercises. It’s funny how I confused, “one-minute cycles” with “Oh, we’re getting a little break now.” It was like that time someone told me, “Having three children is easy.” Because, while you believe you’ve got it all handled, you really have no idea what’s around the corner. As we moved through the remaining strapped exercises, from overhead tricep extensions and mountain climbers to one-legged side lunges and overhead pullovers, I relished the burn with every minute-long motion while wondering how many more classes it would take for

me to be able to complete every round or cycle without having to stop (and pray). At the end of the 45-minute class, we stretched as I regained my composure and looked around to see if anyone else looked like they had just tried to wrangle a tiger. I loved this class. Yes, I was shaky. And maybe even a little off-kilter and close to dropping an f-bomb or two a few times. But I can say that this was a workout I would, without a doubt, be back to do. The beauty of it is that you control the intensity and level of difficulty with your own body, making it accessible for everyone to try. And noting by the levels of body soreness for the few days afterward, I had chosen the right level.

Run Strong Optimal fitness performance requires optimal fitness gear, and undergarments aren’t excluded. How often do you wish you had underwear that can stand up to your race-day expectations?

Local fitness apparel company Believe I Am has developed the “I Am Strong” Running Bikini. Visually appealing, leak resistant and made from moisturewicking fabric by Providence-founded Dear Kate, the form-fitting pink and

black bikini set will remind you of your inner strength as you pass that mile marker. believeiam.com.

handstand and other upside-down and off-the-ground poses on at Shri Yoga’s Arm Balances & Inversions Workshop. If you’ve ever marveled at the amazing poses, from crow to peacock, this is the class for you. shri-studio.com

Providence Monthly | November 2013

Tempting gravity at a TRX class

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City Style |

Beauty

by Julie Tremaine

Curl Up and Dye

Turkey all day!

A picture-perfect curly cut

Illustration: Caleigh McGrath

If you have curly

hair, you already know what that taking whatever crazy curls your genes have given you and turning them into something beautiful isn’t easy. It takes time, effort, luck and good product. A lot of good product. I can’t count the number of women who have come up to me and said, “I love your hair. Mine just won’t do what yours does. What do you use?” I’ll tell them my secrets – tons of conditioner, a leave-in moisturizer, volumizing mousse and a precise balance of air drying vs. diffusing time – but with the understanding that because every curl is different, what works for me probably won’t work for them. That’s because the path to great curls is getting a precise cut, using a few potions and having a stylist who can help you through the whole process. That’s where Richard Latorella comes in. Richard is an owner of Jon Richard, a salon mainstay in Cranston for over a decade that has recently opened a second location in East Greenwich. He’s also the only Ouidad-certified stylist in the state. Ouidad stylists are widely reputed to be the country’s preeminent curly hair experts. What started as one woman’s salon in New York has become an empire of salons, product lines and national education on curl cuts and styling. Before my cut, Richard explained to me that he has also trained in the Deva Curl system, an Ouidad competitor, so his technique doesn’t ascribe specifically to any one rule. “I can’t explain it to you,” he said. “It’s all about knowing what to do with that one individual head of hair.” From the minute I sat in Richard’s chair, I felt like I was in excellent hands. “What do you not like about your hair?” he asked me. “Nothing,” I replied. “I love my hair. But I’ve been trying to grow it out for a while now, and it’s just getting thicker, not longer.” He moved my hair around, looking at the different sections, noting differences in texture and curl pattern. “That’s because you need better internal structure,” he said. “We’re going to do that for you today.” Then, Richard went to work. He didn’t alter the length, but he worked vertically through my curls to create cascading, fully blended layers. It was unlike any cutting approach I had seen before, but

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TsRestaurantRI.com given how confident and methodical he was, it was easy to trust him. Outwardly, you would think I hadn’t really changed anything with my hair. But structurally, it makes so much more sense now. No more odd ridges if I flip my hair wrong. All you see is spiraling curls. And – maybe this is just in my head – but now that the curls can relax a little bit, my hair seems a little bit longer now. After he was done cutting, Richard applied Ouidad Climate Control and Tress Effects gels in different textural places on my head. I had used their Climate Control, an anti-humidity gel, before and didn’t love the crunch it left me with. As he applied them, Richard made a snapping motion with his wrist while holding each individual section of hair. “It breaks that crunch,” he explained. After, he diffused my hair, being careful not to touch any sections and create frizz. When he was finished, I couldn’t believe what I saw: perfect curls with literally not a single flyaway anywhere. I had never seen my hair look so flawless before. Other stylists were coming up to me as I was leaving, telling me how much they loved my look. It was a total shampoo commercial moment.

Jon Richard 956 Park Avenue, Cranston 461-2700 jonrichardsalon.com

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City Style |

Shop Talk

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Style and Sustainability

A new eco-friendly jewelry designer opens up shop

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Providence Monthly | November 2013

afternoon, I stop into Restored by Design at 34 Governor Street to find Martha Jackson hunched over a work bench toward the back of the store surrounded by fabric, buttons and glass beads. Upon hearing me enter, she straightens and greets me cheerfully, commenting on the unusually warm weather. As I answer her, I let my eyes take in the whole of the space, its textures, muted colors and shine. The shop is unique and welcoming, much like its creative owner. Martha, a talented jewelry and accessories designer, worked in the mass-market jewelry world for many years, where she developed an affinity for second hand items. She then began turning other people’s trash into treasure – hence the name of her brand. After working out of a “wonderful” studio in Central Falls, she recently made the move to open her brick and mortar store on Governor. “I really loved my old studio,” she says, “but many people just weren’t comfortable going there to see me. I hope to reach a bigger audience by being here on the East Side.” The shop is decked with goodies (many of which she hand crafts). It’s bursting from floor to ceiling with

bejeweled accessories, vintage clothing and unique home goods, such as intricate flowers that hang by chains around little glass bottles. Placed a top a credenza in front of a window, the adorned vases are sure to radiate life into the room by reflecting the natural sunlight. “My husband and I collect lots of glass bottles,” she says. “These flowers are a great way to dress them up and make them feel special.” Glass flowers in various colors are a constant in the shop. They’re at their most magnificent in a larger-than-life statement necklace that’s displayed to the left of the entrance door. It is truly a one-of-a-kind with its many crisp flowers combining to form a giant breastplate of magnificence, sure to make any wearer the center of attention during a night out on the town. I can imagine this fantastical accessory working wonderfully as a bridal accessory paired with a simple silk gown. I notice several interesting dresses hanging on a rack against the back wall and I ask about their history. “I love to shop for vintage items,” she says, lifting a sturdy shirtdress for me to see. “This piece, for example, is timeless. It never goes out of style. It could be tailored to

fit someone’s needs – you could shorten the sleeves or take in the waist.” She also does custom work by appointment so feel free to inquire about anything you like but aren’t 100% sure about. With a few quick tweaks from Martha’s deft fingers, it could soon become the object of your dreams. Speaking of which, I couldn’t help but fall in love with a delicate branch hung from the ceiling by a chain. Dangling from its thin frame were rows of beautiful teardrop-shaped crystals. My hands flew to my mouth. “This would be absolutely perfect for a nursery, right above a crib!” I exclaimed, excitedly, before admitting that I’m not exactly pregnant quite yet. “No worries,” Martha cooed soothingly. “As soon as you’re ready just let me know and I’ll make you one to your specifications.” With that, I left the store happily, knowing full well I’d soon be back.

Shop for a Cause Fabulocity, an upscale consignment and gift shop, is hosting a shopping event on

November 8. That night, 10% of Fabulocity’s sales will benefit the American Cancer Society. What better way to feel

good about giving yourself a little treat? 6-8pm. 9 Cedar Swamp Road, Smithfield. 231-5900, fabulocityemporium.com

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Photography: Katie Poor

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November 2013 | Providence Monthly

Feast

Photography: Tiffany Medrano

IN THE KITCHEN / oN THE mENu / bEHINd THE bar / rEVIEw / IN THE drINK

Tradition with a Twist Pork Valdostana, a breaded center cut pork loin baked with prosciutto di parma, fresh mozzarella, grilled asparagus and a burgundy demi-glace

Italian-American food has long held a place in our hearts, and Federal Hill is the beating lifeblood for this cuisine. For five years The Bradford has continued to produce inspired seasonal Italian cuisine. Read on to get a taste for yourself.

November 2013 | Providence Monthly

Feast |

review

By Stephanie Obodda

Seasonal Bliss

an ever-evolving Italian menu on Federal Hill

just a few blocks past the iconic pine cone (often mistaken for a pineapple), a small unpretentious restaurant offers diners a respite from the usual madness of the strip. That is not to say that the Bradford is particularly quiet – it’s energetic, but the vibe is decidedly different. While some of Atwells’ Italian restaurants are fancy productions, with valeted Lamborghinis and impeccable attire, this is the kind of place you’re more likely to have a meaningful conversation with your date or casually chat with friends over a hearty meal. The Bradford opened five years ago; taking its name from Bradford Variety, the mom and pop corner store and deli that had occupied the location for decades. The continuity goes deeper than just the name, as restaurant owner Mario Purro took over his family’s business. It’s a small but comfortable space, with old brick walls, painted tin ceiling tiles and warm lighting. I don’t remember the Bradford Variety, but from what I’ve heard, both new and old tenants of this 142 Atwells storefront cultivated a friendly supply of regular customers. We visited the Bradford during the week and on the weekend, and we always found it filled with a vibrant crowd in good spirits. The Bradford’s menu is limited, but that’s not a bad thing – especially in a

smaller restaurant, it means the chef is conscious of what the kitchen will be able to consistently deliver. The menu changes seasonally and some of the most popular dishes stay on, but you may not always be able to get that one dish a friend raved about (like the supposedly excellent arancini). We started with the Meatballs & Shoestrings appetizer ($12), two large meatballs with gravy. According to the menu, these were a “family tradition... perfected over generations.” They were served with shoestring fries and mixed greens, sprinkled with Pecorino and basil. We loved the meatballs, well seasoned and not too dense, as well as the sauce. We followed with the Grilled Caesar salad ($12). Most of the appetizers and salads are available both in half and full portions; the full portion of our salad was perfect for two people. On a previous visit we also tried the calamari. It comes in two versions, the more traditional Fritti and the balsamic-glazed Caprese, and has been popular enough to bridge seasonal menu changes. Browsing the entrées, I immediately zeroed in on the Norcini ($18). This pasta dish combines rigatoni with Italian sweet sausage in a light cream sauce flavored with Parmesan and nutmeg. The evening’s cool weather called for a hearty dish, and although

Shrimp & Scallop Fra diavolo over linguini

I would have been better off showing restraint, I couldn’t help eating the whole plate. Cream pastas can be insipid but this had a good balance, with crumbles of flavorful sausage in every forkful of pasta. My husband had the Veal ($19), described as a tender top

round veal cutlet sautéed with shaved fennel and white wine served over lemon risotto. This was a winner as well, and I was torn between saving room for more pasta and stealing bites of his dish. The veal was indeed tender and its salty sauce paired well with the fresh lemon and fennel flavors. Carb lovers take note - bread doesn’t come to the table uninvited, but if you want some, just ask. The restaurant has fewer than ten tables, but a large bar almost doubles the seating and is more than wide enough for comfortable dining. The Bradford takes reservations, so if you don’t end up there on a whim, I’d recommend making one especially now that recent

Online Exclusive

Lump Crab Cakes with roasted red pepper and caper remoulade

Providence Monthly | November 2013

The bradford’s new fall menu is now available. Check out Providenceonline.com for a sneak peek and a recipe from Chef Nick maete.

Photography: Tiffany Medrano

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Photography: Tiffany Medrano

Grilled bone in Veal Chop with red bliss potatoes and petit greens

Groupon sales have attracted a new crowd of diners. With our meal, we drank a couple of glasses of the house wine (Cupcake), available by the glass in several varietals ($7). The bar menu also listed a handful of seasonal martinis, cordials, other wines and beers, including three drafts and a mixture of craft and popular bottles. The Stoudt’s Fat Dog ($7) my husband ordered when we arrived was a tasty imperial oatmeal stout I haven’t seen on many Providence bar menus. On a previous visit we enjoyed a grilled pound cake and strawberry dessert that was taken off the menu with the summer’s end, but convinced us it

was worth saving room for dessert. This time, we shared a rich slice of Tiramisu ($6), which wasn’t too boozy or heavy. We were especially impressed by the staff, who were professional, quick on their feet, and helpful with recommendations. As we walked out, full and in a good mood, it was easy to understand why The Bradford attracts so many regulars.

The Bradford 142 Atwells Avenue 432-7422 thebradfordprovidence.com

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Providence Monthly | East Side Monthly | SO Rhode Island | The Bay

November 2013 | Providence Monthly

Feast |

In the Kitchen

By Grace Lentini

Visit Our New Indian Southern Hospitality Restaurant blending culinary influences in the Jewelry district In East Greenwich Ryan Keough, co-owner and executive chef of Succotash in the Jewelry District, started cooking around the same time he started school at Johnson & Wales. During his time there he had the opportunity to travel to Ireland and study classic French technique. From there he’s moved to Boston, New York, Chicago and finally back to Providence. Read on to see how his experience has influenced who he is as a chef today.

Friday-Saturday 11:30am to midnight Sunday 11:30am to 9pm Closed Monday

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Succotash is such a unique name. Where did you get it from? It comes from a Narragansett Indian dish, and it’s a traditional Rhode Island dish. But I use succotash all the time. I use it all the time in different restaurants, that and ratatouille. It’s got bacon, corn and lima beans. It reminds me of Thanksgiving; it’s a New England thing, and a Pennsylvania thing. It is on the menu and it will stay on the menu. I would recommend eating our cast-iron pan-seared catfish with it. What’s a source of inspiration for you? The co-owner/partner of Succotash (Umberto Sorbo) flies me out to Miami and Boston to do research. We look at a lot of restaurants and food. One day we’ll pick an Italian restaurant, a breakfast restaurant, etc. and we’ll look through their menus, order a lot of items, try the best of the best and then create our menus. There are so many restaurants, even in Providence, I pull inspiration from. What did you learn from your time in Ireland? I learned classic French technique and about the local culture. Everyone in Providence talks about farm-to-table. This was farm-to-table. There was a local butcher, fish monger, mushroom forager and dairy products. Everything on the menu was from a local farm in Ireland. It’s what they’ve been doing for a long time.

Providence Monthly | November 2013

ryan Keough serving up chicken and waffles

How do you give back now that you have all this experience? In some ways I’m a teacher now. I teach and learn at the same time now. I like to show [JWU] students the experiences that I went through. They stage before they work here. But when they shadow here, I have them do it during brunch when it’s the busiest. I want them to see a busy restaurant, a line moving together, the front of the house moving, the managers talking together. Let’s talk about the food. Describe a bit about the menu. I always wanted to do breakfast and brunch. The menu changes every two months to keep it seasonal and fresh and to keep me interested. Everyone likes change; I don’t want anyone to get bored. What’s a gotta-have entrée for a first timer at Succotash? Biscuits and Gravy. You could eat it for breakfast, lunch or dinner. It’s the bacon fat and fresh-made love that goes into it. We make the biscuits with salted butter. Then I would have you wash it all down with bourbon. I hear you have Chicken and Waffles… Chicken needs a marinade, and we

use a house made barbecue sauce and buttermilk. After one day in the marinade the chicken is great. After two days it’s awesome. Then, we season the flour batter with Cajun spices. The waffles are light, fluffy and made with vanilla. We also use Vermont maple syrup. You can smell the vanilla coming off the waffles. What meal do you make for yourself at home? My wife, Kristina, cooks for me. She’s a better cook than me. She cooks all the classic Italian dishes, and when she cooks for two, she cooks for 20. Are there any plans for the future? We’re currently working on a new smokehouse where the theme is low and slow. It’s a huge space in Cranston and we’re working with a local brewmaster to create a rotating brew system with the ultimate goal of one day getting the brew on the market. We have a lot of great ideas for this place.

Succotash 373 Richmond Street 228-7222 succotashri.com

Photography: Mike Braca

Tuesday-Thursday 11:30am to 10pm

Why did you become a chef? All the classic chefs inspired me. As a kid you watch PBS and all of the cooking shows – Jacques Pepin, Julia Child, Lidia Bastianich, Martin Yan. I loved it. It was Martin Yan who at the end of his show would say, “If Yan can cook, so can you.” At such a young age it was funny, but then I would go upstairs to the kitchen and try.

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November 2013 | Providence Monthly

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Providence Monthly | November 2013

Feast |

on the menu

By Dale J. Rappaneau, Jr.

Tapping Into Greatness

a new chef-inspired experience erupts in wayland Square

Photography: Mike Braca

Hidden Square’s

among

Wayland

shopping bastion is The Olive Tap, an inconspicuous food haven that’s far from a newcomer to the Rhode Island scene. However, many an onlooker believe the exceptionally clean store to be nothing more than an upscale shop for specialty oils, when in fact Greg Holtkamp, the store’s coowner, has slowly been transforming it into one of the most intimate of dining destinations on the East Side. Less than a year ago, Greg befriended Rhode Island’s culinary genius/ madman Jaime D’Oliveira, the acclaimed four-star chef that reinvigorated such restaurants as Red Stripe and Mill’s Tavern. “He lived right up the street and would go to Whole Foods every day to buy fresh ingredients, like people do in Europe,” says Greg, who back then knew nothing about Jaime. The two were introduced by a friend and Jaime came to appreciate Greg’s fine oils and food knowledge, often popping into the store just to say hello. “Then one day he said, ‘Do you think there’s an opportunity to do something together?’ To me, that’s like I have an AAU basketball team and Michael Jordan asks, ‘Can we do something together?’ It’s a no-brainer.” To start, the two created a weekly themed tasting event, in which Jaime created “dishes incorporating our oils, vinegars, maple syrups, mayonnaise, any number of things we carry, to show people ways to use them other than in a salad,” says Greg. But then something changed. “A couple weeks ago, Jaime stopped in to have a beer with me. He said, ‘As a general manager of a restaurant, I don’t get to cook.’ That’s his passion, so he asked me what we could do about it.” The two of them examined the tasting events and found people often stayed from start to finish, going so far as to make an event out of it. “So I said, if you want to cook, let’s turn the tastings into something more, and we started a weekly culinary series with Jaime.” And what a culinary series it is. While the tastings still take place every Friday night, The Olive Tap now offers weekly multi-course themed

Jaime d’olivera in the kitchen at The olive Tap

dinners prepared by Jaime D’Oliveira - and only Jaime. Greg sets up an upscale eating environment (linens, candles, music, the whole works) in the back of the store, while Jaime jams to Bob Marley in the basement and lets loose his culinary abilities. “It’s amazing to watch him work,” says Greg. “The first dinner, we had 20 people and he did six courses by himself. We were running as fast as we could to serve and clear, and he still found time to come upstairs and talk about each dish, what inspired him to make it, what’s in it. And at any point, if you went down to the prep area to see him, it’s spotless, not a dirty dish in the sink. He’s a machine.” Each dinner is as much about the food prepared by Jaime as it is about Jaime himself. For example, the second event of the series was dedicated to Jaime’s grandfather, and the tales he told about each dish involved his grandparents and their influence on his cooking. Where else can one enjoy a four-star chef’s six- or seven-course meal, all prepared only by that chef,

and listen to his charismatic banter about why he chose to serve each dish? There’s no other way to describe it than intimate. “He’s as close to a genius in the kitchen as anyone I’ve ever met,” says Greg. “We’re very, very, very fortunate to have him.” 485 Angell Street. 2728200, theolivetapri.com FOOD NEWS SpEED-RuN The corner of Hope and Wickenden is now home to Willy’s Local Foods, a grocery store focused on providing - you guessed it - local foods to local communities. Previously, Fox Point residents had to venture to Whole Foods for anything organic, but Willy’s homegrown goods offer an accessible alternative. 394 Wickenden Street. 4541888, willyslocalfoods.com. Meanwhile, opposite the East Side, the long-anticipated West Side Diner has opened. Having been in the works for more than a year, this adorable little restaurant is happy to help anyone in need of a good coffee and a banging breakfast. 1380 Westminster St. 490-0644.

Over near the Providence Place, public Kitchen & Bar has now been open for a little more than a month, wowing “hipsters and senators alike” with their American cuisine. 120 Francis Street. 919-5050, publickitchenprovidence.com. Eaters craving a side of art with their meals will be happy to know The Artspot Cafe, a new gallery/cafe, has opened on Broadway. The cafe’s goal is to host an art opening each month focusing on one or two local artists. The exhibit will remain hung until the next opening. 262 Broadway. But with the new goes the old: both Cuban Revolution on Valley Street and Andy Jr’s on Federal Hill have closed. Finally, October’s seasonal pumpkin flavor lingers on with the release of Newport Storm’s Rhode Island pumpkin (RIp). Replacing the draft versions of their Oktoberfest Marzen Lager and Winter Porter, RIP is based on the same recipe as their Cyclone Gloria beer. RIP is available only as a draft and will be sold throughout Rhode Island until December 30.

November 2013 | Providence Monthly

Feast |

New Holiday Selections!

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How does your cocktail menu change with the seasons? Since we opened in March, I’ve changed the cocktail list eight times – a full rewrite. We keep ingredients handy for the most popular drinks. We use as many seasonal fruits and herbs in our drinks as we can. My farmers know what I’m looking for. I have herbalists that grow herbs for my cocktails. I’m creating a slightly sweet cordial made with Sacred Basil, which is an important herb in ancient Hindu culture. This bright floral herb has a bubble gum taste to it. What are some cocktails we can look forward to seeing in November? You can always order a G&T, but it will taste different every time. We make our tonic from scratch, using a real cinchona bark. In November, our tonic will have a rosemary flavor profile. Next time you come, it will feature something citrusy. The Krakatau (like the volcano) is a clear, stirred drink, designed to evoke the Dirty Martini, but without the olive juice. Concocted with Bols Genever, volcanic salt, and vermouth, it’s a nice warming gunmetal gray salty martini. The warming aspect of the Generver is pretty cool. Do your beer and wine lists contribute to your sense of community? Absolutely! We do everything in our

Providence Cocktail week winner Joe Haggard

power to keep it as close to home as possible and in the craft portfolio. Our beers, wine and spirits are mostly local. You’ll always find Revival Brewing Company on tap. You won’t find Grey Goose or Ketel One here. We serve Rime Vodka, produced from organic American-grown corn; organic hits the mark for what we do here. Try one of the many obscure craft rums. However, you can order a 7 oz. Budweiser or Miller High Life here. What’s been your biggest challenge as a bar manager? Learning to adapt. RI has a really unique cultural heritage. People have a really pretty clear idea of what they want and what they are into. Learning what it is people are really looking for has been a challenge. We want to simultaneously give people what they want while introducing them to new things. How would you convince your average espresso martini drinker to try one of your advanced cocktails? Every single one of our bartenders is really good at listening. Tell us what you like and our staff will invent something

just for you based on your flavor profile. It makes people feel special. It’s something we do really well here. What’s an easy, but impressive cocktail our readers can wow their Thanksgiving dinner guests with? My winning cocktail - “The Cervantes,” named after the author of my favorite book. This drink won the Providence Cocktail Week Cocktail Competition at Bottles. You can pick up everything you need to make this drink there. It’s made with 1 1/2 oz Olmeca Altos Reposado Tequila, 3/4 oz Becherovka, 1/4 oz Agave syrup, 1/2 dropper Bittermen’s Elemakule Tiki Bitters. Stir all ingredients in mixing glass with ice until diluted. Strain into 5 oz. coupe glass. Finish by expressing oils from freshly sliced orange over drink. This drink is spicy and has a zip to it.

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Photography: Mike Braca

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Feast |

In the drink

By Emily Dietsch

Tart Drinking

a dash of creativity for cranberry-inspired cocktails

Illustration: Caleigh McGrath

Every November, the cranberry – that most all-American, Pilgrim-sustaining of fruits – finds itself overexposed, shoved into every conceivable product category like a mini-Kardashian. Every bakery in town starts hyping cranberry-studded this, that and the other thing. Artisanal cranberry compotes overrun farmer’s market stalls, and dried cranberries suddenly invade restaurant salads like they’re staging a flash mob. In all fairness, many of these cranberry takeovers work out pleasantly, or at least harmlessly. Booze is a prime exception, however, since historically cranberries have done it no favors whatsoever. Case in point, cranberry juice features centrally in the Cape Codder and the Cosmo, otherwise known as two of the most overdone cocktails ever designed. Surprisingly deep history stands behind those drinks, dating to the moment cranberry juice met the U.S. mass-market in the 1930s, and hitched itself to hard liquor soon after. In the ‘60s, the barebones cranberry cocktail got a tacky makeover thanks to Trader Vic’s, which dressed it up in Burmese drag and called it the Rangoon Ruby. Still, we can pinpoint cranberry booze’s true downhill slide to – what else? – that augur of terrible things known as the Reagan era. “In the early ‘80s, when we first encountered the little whatsit we know as the Cape Codder,” says spirits historian David Wondrich, “it was generally found glued to the hand of the stereotypical fresh-from-college ash-blonde who favors twin sets, and the men who lech after her.” Preppy enough to suit polite company, it also facilitated many a messy one-night stand, thus nabbing the WASP gold star. Next came the Cosmo, a ‘90s bar scene darling and signature accessory to Carrie Bradshaw wannabes. It packed a big wallop like the Cape Codder, but put on the pretense of being a serious cocktail. Still, it was… so very pink, and essentially a cutesy funnel for high-octane vodka. The takeaway is that splashing cranberry into booze has become a go-to move for the American drinking

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public, and one that people like. A lot. Whatever the misgivings of cocktail geeks, myself included, there’s a massive swath of drinkers who just want some damned cranberry juice in their cocktails, especially this time of year. In a way, the impulse boils down to a pursuit of fun, which is hard to condemn. (So I won’t.) All the same, I don’t embrace all cranberry booze equally. There is a spectrum, ranging from the mini-tin of Ocean Spray cracked over a plastic cup of vodka on the rocks to something exponentially better. Something nuanced, flat-out good and attentive to craft rather than to the cause of getting hammered. At Parkside in Providence, bar manager Mike Breault serves up two cocktails that fit that bill. Crucially, both utilize white cranberry juice, which is softer than the red variety. “It doesn’t get in the way of the drink,” Breault relayed. “It blends in.” And since white cranberries are naturally sweeter, he added, drinks made with it don’t need a heap of sugar like those made with the sharper red cranberry. Mango puree, for instance, is the main sweetener in one of his cocktails, which is built

around a streamlined core of Finlandia vodka, the aforementioned mango puree and white cranberry juice. Good riddance, cavity-inducing syrups. Breault’s second cocktail, the “Ooh La La” also marries white cranberry juice with vodka, and leavens it with St. Germain liqueur and a prosecco topper. It’s bright and sleek, and my favorite of the two, though both are quite winning. What can I say? Everything is better with bubbles, which surely taps into some primordial human pleasure zone that’s yet to be charted. In the meantime, I offer a simple hypothesis: effervescence = happiness. And since we’re on the subject of axioms, consider this your seasonal PSA: “Obvious and dumb” is fine for ironic holiday sweaters, but not cocktails. Drink better and be merry.

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Feast |

dining Guide

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Mind 2 Body Fit Studio BRAVO BRASSERIE 123 Empire St.; 490-5112, bravobrasserie.com. Enjoy lunch and dinner at this American bistro with a French flair. Located downtown across from Trinity Rep, it’s the perfect place for a pre-theater dinner or cocktail after the show. LD $$-$$$

BRICKWAY ON WICKENDEN 234 Wickenden St; 751-2477, brickwayonwickenden.com. Brickway will delight your eyes as well as your taste buds with its vibrant mural and 15+ choices of highly acclaimed and creativelynamed omelets. Just as mouthwatering are its Cajun chicken wrap and veggie roll up. BBRL $

birch 200 washington Street, Providence. 401-272-3105, www. birchrestaurant.com. Intimate eating meets culinary excellence at birch, a gastronomic adventure through modern american cuisine rooted in classical technique. Enjoy a multi-course meal while sipping sensational cocktails or sustainably-made beers. D $$-$$$

Providence

wines and a full bar – with an emphasis on local ingredients. BBrLD $-$$$

10 pRIME STEAK & SuSHI 55 Pine St.; 453-2333, tenprimesteakandsushi. com. Located downtown, 10 offers a sophisticated yet lively atmosphere, complemented by aged prime steaks, a full sushi menu and creative cocktails. LD $$-$$$

BAKER STREET RuE 75 Baker St.; 490-5025, therue.com. The Rue De L’Espoir empire expands with this comfortable neighborhood café serving “upscale diner food” with an emphasis on local ingredients. BBrL $

Photography: Tiffany Medrano

ANDREAS 268 Thayer St.; 3317879, andreasri.com. For a taste of Greece, head to Andreas. Their menu includes souvlaki, moussaka and a variety of kabobs, along with specialties like Lemon Oregano Lamb Chops and Spanakopita, an appetizer of spinach and feta in flaky phyllo dough. BrLD $-$$ ASpIRE RESTAuRANT 311 Westminster St.; 521-333, aspirerestaurantcom. Aspire offers an exquisite fine dining experience with a number of delicious small and large plates, numerous fine

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BLuE COTTAGE 748 Hope St.; 3837307. Enjoy a bed and breakfast style morning meal or deli sandwich at this cozy diner. It’s a good breakfast at a fair price in a family friendly setting. Daily specials. BBR $ BOMBAY CLuB 145 Dean St.; 2736363, bombayclubri.com. Located on Federal Hill, this Indian restaurant features dinner everyday and a buffet lunch on weekends. Try the specialty Bombay Mix Grill with an assortment of kebobs on a sizzling plate. LD $$$$$

CAFé pARAGON 234 Thayer St.; 3316200, paragonandviva.com. This hip eatery serves sandwiches, pasta and entrées at prices lower than the chic décor would have you believe. The adjoining Viva lounge is perfect for after-dinner drinks and private parties. BrLD $-$$ CASERTA’S pIZZERIA 121 Spruce St.; 621-3618, casertapizzeria.com. This Rhode Island tradition serves big pizzas with generous toppings and thick, rich tomato sauce. Their famous Wimpy Skippy, a spinach pie with cheese and pepperoni, is not to be missed. LD $-$$ CAV 14 Imperial Pl.; 751-9164, cavrestaurant.com. The New York Times’ choice as one of Providence’s five best restaurants, CAV’s contemporary award-winning cuisine is available for lunch and dinner daily. They also feature Saturday/Sunday brunch. BrLD $$-$$$ DON JOSE TEQuILAS 351 Atwells Ave.; 454-8951, donjosetequilas.com. Don Jose’s digs a little deeper than your average Mexican restaurant, with all the basics you love alongside more artfully composed entrées and a wonderful selection of house-made tequilas. LD $$ THE DORRANCE 60 Dorrance St.; 5216000, thedorrance.com. The Dorrance,

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Feast |

dining Guide

a 2012 James Beard Foundation award semi-finalist (best new restaurant and chef), is known for its impressive architecture, hand-crafted cocktails and delicious modern American cuisine. LD $$-$$$ HARRY’S BuRGER & BAR 121 North Main St.; 228-7437, harrysbarburger. com. Harry’s features only freshly ground beef, Nathan’s hot dogs, a long list of craft beers and new twists on cocktails. A perfect quick bite or night out. LD $-$$

HARuKI EAST 172 Wayland Ave.; 2230332, harukisushi.com. For authentic Japanese dining, try Haruki’s large variety of sushi, sashimi, bento boxes, soba noodles and delicious specialty entrées. Enjoy the chic atmosphere and the freshest sushi around. LD $-$$$ KARTABAR 284 Thayer St.; 331-8111, kartabar.com. This European-style restaurant and lounge offers a full menu of unique dishes with Mediterranean flair and eclectic flavors. They also

offer a top-notch wine list and martini menu. LD $-$$

of Lim’s fine Thai cuisine and sushi served in an intimate and modern setting. LD $$

KITCHEN BAR 771 Hope Street; 3314100, kitchenbarri.com. Offering contemporary comfort cuisine in an elegant setting, Kitchen Bar features daily specials and take-out. Try their Clams Zuppa or Coriander Encrusted Flat Iron Steak or have the kids order from the kids’ menu. LD $-$$

LuXE BuRGER BAR 5 Memorial Blvd.; 621-5893, luxeburgerbar.com. Luxe brings the classic burger to a new level. Their build-your-own burger list, which includes Kobe and Gold Labeled beef, never ends, with countless possible combinations. LD $-$$

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Providence Monthly | November 2013

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is a traditional Irish pub serving all the classics from Fish ‘n Chips to Corned Beef and Cabbage. They offer live entertainment on Tuesdays and Saturdays. LD $-$$ MILLS TAVERN 101 North Main St., 272-3331, millstavernrestaurant.com. The only restaurant in RI to receive The Mobile Four Star Award for five consecutive years, Mills Tavern provides traditional American cuisine in a warm, friendly setting. D $$-$$$ MuMu CuISINE 220 Atwells Ave; 369-7040, mumucuisine.com. This upscale Providence restaurant features authentic Chinese food in a modern, relaxing atmosphere. Try some of the best-rated dishes, such as the savory (and grease-free) Scallion Pancakes or Ambrosial Tea-Smoked Duck in a chic red-and-black themed setting. LD $$

pARKSIDE 76 South Main St.; 3310003, parksideprovidence.com. Chef/ owner Steven Davenport offers innovative and classic foods with eclectic flare. The menu also includes creative pasta dishes and, of course, the signature rotisserie meats for which Parkside is famous. LD $-$$ pHO HORN’S 50 Ann Mary St.; 3656278, phohorns.com. Pho Horn’s offers authentic Vietnamese cuisine, including traditional dishes like the popular Pho (noodle soup) and Rice Chowder with Pulled Pork. It’s a delicious choice for anyone looking for something different. LD $-$$

puBLIC KITCHEN & BAR 120 Francis St.; 919-5050, publickitchenprovidence. com. Public maintains its historic architecture while embodying an atmosphere fit for hipsters and Senators alike. With mature cocktails and creative American cuisine, come for the food, stay for the ambience. RED STRIpE 465 Angell St.; 4376950, redstriperestaurants.com. It’s classic comfort food with French influences. From their Grilled Cheese with Tomato Soup to ten styles of Moules & Frites, Red Stripe’s menu is reasonably priced and made with passion. LD $-$$$

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RICK’S ROADHOuSE 370 Richmond St.; 272-7675, ricksroadhouseri.com. With hand-cut, fire-kissed steaks, gut-busting burgers and fall off the bone ribs, Rick’s brings the best slowcooked cuisine to the Ocean State. LD $-$$

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RuE BIS 95 South St.; 490-9966, therue.com. This intimate eatery provides breakfast and lunch in a cozy, neighborhood bistro atmosphere – all with the gourmet pedigree of Hope Street dining staple Rue De L’Espoir behind it. BBrL $ RuE DE L’ESpOIR 99 Hope St.; 7518890, therue.com. In business for over 30 years, the Rue has only gotten better. Beautifully prepared with the freshest ingredients, the innovative, constantly changing menu keeps diners on their toes. BBrLD $$

pROVIDENCE OYSTER BAR 283 Atwells Ave.; 272-8866, providenceoysterbar.com. Visit this unique restaurant for a taste of the sea, featuring “Today’s Catch” and specialty Shrimp and Fish Tacos. “Appy Hour” from 4-6:30pm features a sushi and raw oyster bar. LD $-$$

THREE SISTERS 1074 Hope Street; 273-7230, threesistersri.com. This highly acclaimed creamery features traditional Vanilla Bean along with new award-winning flavors such as Kulfi (cardamom, cinnamon, pistachio). Don’t miss its well-crafted breakfast omelets and lunchtime paninis. BBRL $

pROVIDENCE pRIME 279 Atwells Ave.; 454-8881, providenceprime.com. At this finest USDA steakhouse, the atmosphere is fresh and sophisticated. With award-winning steak, fresh seafood and a collection of over 300 bottles of wine, it’s the best in its class. LD $-$$$

SIENA 238 Atwells Ave.; 521-3311, sienari.com. Federal Hill’s Siena features authentic Tuscan cuisine in a warm and lively atmosphere. The extensive menu includes wood-grilled veal, steak and seafood entrées along with signature pasta and sauté dishes. D $$-$$$

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November 2013 | Providence Monthly

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TRATTORIA ZOOMA 245 Atwells Ave.; 383-2002, trattoriazooma.com. Located on historic Federal Hill, Zooma offers award winning Neapolitan cuisine in a beautiful, upscale setting, specializing in house made pasta, local fish, meats, vegetables and authentic wood fired pizza. LD $$-$$$

ROCCO’S puB AND GRuB 55 Douglas Pike, Smithfield; 349-2250, roccospubandgrub.com. Far from your average bar food, the menu includes fresh calamari or “atomic chips” appetizers (to name a few), as well as a wide array of fresh salads, burgers and flatbreads. LD $$

VANITY RESTAuRANT & LOuNGE 566 South Main St.; 649-4667, vanityri. com. Seeped in the “speakeasy” style of the 1920s; Vanity is nothing to keep quiet about. Featuring a mobsterthemed menu with Americana favorites and seafood like the Joe Pesce: a medley of clams, shrimp, calamari and fish in a spicy pomodoro sauce and finished with a veggie risotto. Their nightlife brings modern fun into a world of nostalgia: fuhgeddaboudit! D $-$$$

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WHISKEY REpuBLIC 515 South Water St.; 588-5158, thewhiskeyrepublic.com. From an extensive whiskey selection to rock star live entertainment, there’s always something to whet your appetite. Come by to watch a game and choose from classic pub fare to seafood entrées and flatbread pizzas. LD $-$$ XO CAFé 125 North Main St.; 273-9090, xocafe.com. XO Café celebrates fine food, wine and funky art. It features a seductive atmosphere, outmatched by playfully composed dishes inspired by natural/local ingredients. BrD $$-$$$

ELEVEN FORTY NINE RESTAuRANT 1149 Division St. (Warwick/ East Greenwich line); 884-1149, elevenfortynine.com. 965 Fall River Ave., Seekonk; 508-336-1149. Metropolitan chic comes to the suburbs at this super stylish restaurant with a raw bar, outstanding menu and some of the best cocktails around. LD $$-$$$ RASA 149 Main St.; East Greenwich; 398-2822, indianrestaurantsri.com/ rasa. The owner of Kabob and Curry and Rasoi restaurants has brought his classic flavors of India to South County. Enjoy the many nan varieties to the Chicken Tikka Masala. SIENA CuCINA 5600 Post Rd., East Greenwich; 885-8850, sienari.com. Siena features authentic Tuscan cuisine in a warm and lively atmosphere, plus over 20 wines by the glass and an Italian “tapas” menu. D $$-$$$

west bay North BLACKIE’S BuLL DOG TAVERN 181 George Washington Highway, Smithfield; 231-4777, blackiesbulldogtavern. com. This tavern specializes in comfort food and features a large selection of beer. Skilled bartenders, drink concoctions and live music make this the perfect happy hour spot. LD $-$$

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Providence Monthly | November 2013

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Providence Monthly | November 2013

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EVENTS / ART / MUSIC / THEATRE

Proustfest celebrates its love for an iconic author

November to remember 1.

November 14-16: The Providence Athenaeum hosts Proustfest 2013, a three-day event for literary snobs and novices alike featuring lectures, films, book signings and more to honor French novelist and critic Marcel Proust. Day one kicks off with a talk by William C. Carter, Proust’s definitive biographer, to be followed by a celebration of food, wine, music and literature at Pot au Feu restaurant. The event concludes at the Cable Car Cinema for a screening of Time Regained, the 1999 film adaptation of the final volume of Proust’s In Search of Lost Time. Call or go online for complete details. 251 Benefit Street. 421-6970, providenceathenaeum.org.

November 2-30: Hope Artiste Village opens its doors every Wednesday and Saturday to host the Wintertime Farmers’ market. Selling everything from local eggs to oysters, the market is open light snow or shine. Wednesdays, 4-7pm; Saturdays, 9am-1pm. 1005 Main Street, Pawtucket. farmfresh.org.

November 1&2: First Works presents Cirque eloize: Cirkopolis, a fantastic journey of circus, dance and theatre that will blow your mind with its daring acrobatic feats. $38$68. 7:30pm Friday; 4pm Saturday. Providence Performing Arts Center, 220 Weybosset Street. 421-2787, ppacri.org.

November 1-30: Providence College is more than just academics and basketball. Check out R. Justin Stewart’s Distorting (a messiah project – 11c), an interactive art installation that uses QR codes embedded throughout sculpture. Reilly Gallery, Smith Center for the Arts, One Cunningham Square. 865-2401, providence.edu.

November 9: The 4th annual Urban vintage bazaar is coming to Brown University with 16 vintage dealers set up shop for an upscale but affordable market. Items include clothing, jewelry, electronics, records, artwork, furniture and more. 10am-4pm. 75 Waterman Street. facebook.com/urbanvintagebazaar or urbanvintagebazaar@gmail.com.

November 2013 | Providence Monthly

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Calendar

By Erin Swanson

This month November 1-3: Providence College presents The Good Doctor, a comedy. $5-13. 8pm Friday & Saturday; 2pm Sunday. Angell Blackfriars Theater Smith Center for the Arts, One Cunningham Square. 865-1000. providence.edu/theatre. November 1-29: Every Friday at the Artists’ Exchange the actors of bring Your own Improv will have you in stitches with their on-the-fly comedy. $7. 10pm. 82 Rolfe Square, Cranston. 490-9475, artists-exchange.org. November 1-30: Artist Vincent Valdez presents The Strangest Fruit at the David Winton Bell Gallery. His exhibit metaphorically illustrates the oppression felt by Latinos in the US. 64 College Street. 863-2932, brown.edu/campuslife/arts/bell-gallery. November 2: Sometimes writers need to develop mutable writing practices. Make new friends as you learn new techniques at breaking the Form: a one-day studio class. $50. 10:30am-2:30pm. 186 Carpenter Street. frequencyprovidence.com. November 2: Jack Martone of Martone’s Auction will lead the Antiques and Collectibles Auction of furniture, art, jewelry and more, preceeded by a “buy it now” market. 8am market; 10am auction. 296 Angell Street. 3311960, auctioncentralri.com. November 2-3: What could be more romantic than getting legally married in front of hundreds of costumed strangers? The RI Comic Con offers guests the chance to get married LIve by artist comic book and film artist Rusty Gilligan! $50. 10am-7pm Saturday; 10am-5pm Sunday. 1 Sabin Street. 570-689-9879, ricomiccon.com. November 3-24: Every Sunday at AS220 you can hop into your leotard for a drop-in beginner or Intermediate ballet class with Stephanie Albanese. $13. 10:30-11:30am beginner; 12-1:30pm

oNLINe eXCLUSIve 64

For

intermediate. 95 Empire Street. 8319327, as220.org. November 4: American Idol season nine winner Lee DeWyze brings his soulful vocals to The Met. He’ll be performing songs from his new album Frames. $15-$40. 8pm doors; 9pm show. 1005 Main Street, Pawtucket. 729-1005, themetri.com. November 5: Don’t miss Sallie Ford & The Sound outside with openers Mount Moriah at the Columbus Theatre, an intimate place to see a show. $10 advance; $12 day of. 7pm doors; 8pm show. 270 Broadway. 621-9660, columbustheatre.com. November 6: The whole family can learn about owls of New england at Audubon’s Powder Mill Ledges Wildlife Refuge. Listen to fun stories and meet a few live owls! $4-$12. 6:30-8pm. 12 Sanderson Road, Smithfield. 9495454, asri.org. November 7: The Ghost Army is a documentary that tells the tale of American soldiers who duped Hitler’s army during WWII with carefully crafted illusions. See it at Stadium Theatre. $10. 7pm. 28 Monument Square, Woonsocket. 762-4545, stadiumtheatre.com. November 7-28: Class up your after work routine with Thursdays at the biltmore. Indulge in cocktails and complimentary hors d’oeuvres while enjoying live jazz. Free. 5-8pm. 11 Dorrance Street. 421-0700, providencebiltmore.com. November 7-30: Where did all the good people go? Find out at Good People by Pulitzer-winning playwright David Lindsay-Abaire. $38. 7pm & 8pm show times. 172 Exchange Street, Pawtucket. 723-4266, gammtheatre.org. November 8: The Hunter Music Series proudly features a concert by robert Abelson and Carol Toscano performing

Come to Slater Mill on November 1 for a Mill and Mystery Ghost Tour

November 1: Halloween is over but you can still enjoy some spooky fun with Slater Mill’s 90-minute Mill and Mystery Ghost Tour. Discover the creatures that lurk around the 200-year-old mill. $20. Tours begin at 8pm. 67 Roosevelt Avenue, Pawtucket. 725-8638, slatermill.org.

music of Rogers & Hart. 6:30-8:30pm. Governor Henry Lippitt House Museum, 199 Hope Street. 453-0688, preserveri.org. November 8: First Works connects art with audiences and this month it’s doing it by bringing the Kronos Quartet World Premiere to the RISD Auditorium. $28-$65. 8pm. 7 Canal Walk, Providence. 454-6500, first-works.org. November 8: One of the world’s most consummate performers, Liza minnelli, comes to Foxwoods with a larger-thanlife show that audiences won’t soon forget! $62.50. 8pm. 240 MGM Grand Drive, Mashantucket, CT. 800-2002882, foxwoods.com. November 9: The Great International beer Festival returns to showcase both large and small breweries represented from across the U.S., Europe and Asia. $44. RI Convention Center, 1 Sabin Street. 351-2632, beerfestamerica.com.

November 9: As part of a 13-city tour, elton John: All the Hits comes to the Dunkin’ Donuts Center. The star will be performing tracks from his fivedecade career. $29.50-$149.50. 8pm. 1 LaSalle Square. 331-6700, dunkindonutscenter.com. November 9: Trinity Rep brings us A Christmas Carol one month early and caters to both adults and children with sensitivities. This modified show fits the needs of individuals with autism spectrum disorders and other cognitive and physical disabilities. $22. 2pm. 201 Washington Street. 351-4242, trinityrep.com. November 9-10: It’s almost the season for singing so bring the family and enjoy The Providence Singers as they celebrate the 100th birthday of English composer Benjamin Britten. $28 or $5 with student ID. Nov. 9 at The Cathedral of SS Peter and Paul, 30 Fenner Street. Nov. 10 at The Immaculate Conception

an up-to-date statewide calendar and to submit your own listings visit providenceonline.com

Providence Monthly | November 2013

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Calendar

By Erin Swanson

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A magical holiday shopping experience. November 10: Get back to nature by immersing yourself in it at the Autumn Day retreat. Learn about native roses, how to make rose-hip tea, how to create avian habitat in your own backyard, do some yoga and more. RSVP required. $70 or save $20 by registering with a friend. Roger Williams Park Botanical Center, 1 Floral Avenue. 8742900, outreach@uri.edu. November 10: Kick off the holidays with CrAFToPIA, where fun and funky New England artisans showcase their family-friendly works at the Hope Artiste Village. Come for the artisans, stay for the food trucks. $1. 10am-4pm. 1005 Main Street, Pawtucket. 7220752, rhodycraft.com November 15: 95.5 WBRU presents manchester orchestra with The Front Bottoms at Lupo’s Heartbreak Hotel. These alternative darlings are proud of the fact that they “play loud.” $16.50$20. 7pm doors; 8pm show. 79 Washington Street. 331-5876, lupos.com. November 15-23: GCOLE Productions presents Brighton Beach Memoirs at the Artists’ Exchange Black Box Theatre. $15 advance; $20 door. Fridays and Saturdays at 8pm. 82 Rolfe Square, Cranston. 490-9475, artists-exchange.org. November 15-30: Mixed Magic Theatre proudly presents Othello by William Shakespeare. It’s a timeless tale of loyalty broken, love lost and the consequences of paranoia. $25 (general), $20 (seniors 65+) and $15 (student and military with ID). Fri and Sat 7:30pm, Sun 3pm. 999 Main Street, Pawtucket. 305-7333, mmtri.com. November 21: Comedian Chris Kattan is best known for his role as a cast member on Saturday Night Live from 19952003. He performs at the Comedy Connection for one night only. $25. 8pm. 39 Warren Avenue, East Providence. 4388383, ricomedyconnection.com. November 21-30: The Bank of America’s Ice Skating Rink at Kennedy Plaza

opens for the season for Public Skating, seven days per week. $3-$6. 10am10pm Mon-Fri; 11am-10pm Sat-Sun. Bank of America City Center, 2 Kennedy Plaza. 331-5544, kennedyplaza.org.

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November 23: Celebrate Thanksgiving with the Audubon Society at Turkey Tales where children will read a turkey story, make a turkey craft and learn about the animal. $5-$6. 11am-12pm. 12 Sanderson Road, Smithfield. 9495454, asri.org. November 23: What RI native has been signed by 50 Cent to his G-Note record label and voted the eight best DJ by Vibe magazine? Two words: Pauly D. And he’s coming to Twin River. $25. 8:30pm. 100 Twin River Road, Lincoln. 723-3200, twinriver.com.

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November 23: Support the National Multiple Sclerosis Society’s Rhode Island Chapter by coming to their 4th Annual Holiday bazaar. Last year’s bazaar featured 35 vendors selling holiday gifts, jewelry, baskets, gourmet foods and more! Free. 10am3pm. Scottish Rite Masonic Center, 2115 Broad Street, Cranston. 738-8383 Option 2, Meredith.Sheehan@nmss.org. November 23: After a six-year hiatus, Fete is happy to host the return of the Suicide Girls: blackheart burlesque show, complete with tongue-in-cheek humor. $17.50-$25.00. 9pm doors; 9:15pm show. 103 Dike Street. 383-1112, fetemusic.com. November 23: Fusionworks Dance Company unveils their Annual Fall Concert Series which is sure to be a crowd-pleaser for all all ages. $25 (general), $20 (seniors, students and groups of 20 or more). 3pm (Unwrapped) and 8pm. Rhode Island College, Sapinsley Hall, 600 Mt. Pleasant Avenue. 3343091, fusionworksdance.org. November 27-30: Following a sell-out tour of the United Kingdom, a stunning new production of Andrew Lloyd Webber’s The Phantom of the Opera comes to Providence. $45-$107. 7pm, 7:30pm & 8pm show times. PPAC, 220 Weybosset Street. 421-2787, ppacri.org.

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Providence Monthly | November 2013

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Theatre

By Jenn Salcido

reigniting Desire Brown’s Stuart Theatre returns to the roots of a Tennessee Williams classic

Photo: Riley Ryan-Wood

Some things are so

iconic that you can feel you’ve experienced them, even if you’ve never been close. You do this through photographs, through storytelling, through Wikipedia rabbit holes, through film. It’s true of the French Quarter — that bastion of New Orleans nightlife that, to the uninitiated (and even to many of the initiated), is booze-soaked and draped with colorful beads. And it’s also true of A Streetcar Named Desire, the Tennessee Williams play made famous by a raging Marlon Brando in his prime, breathing fire and chewing scenery in the 1951 film of the same name. But just as there’s more to the Big Easy than Mardi Gras, there’s more to the Pulitzer Prize-winning play than Brando. That’s what Brown University Theatre Professor Lowry Marshall hopes audiences will find with her production of Streetcar. Lowry says that it’s her intention to explore both Williams’ original script — rather than his later collaboration with director Elia Kazan (and, on Broadway, designer Jo Mielziner) that created the film — as well as the broader character of New Orleans itself. Lowry, herself a product of the South, says that directing Streetcar is a “thrill” for her, fulfilling a lifelong dream. “I’ve wanted to direct it for God knows how long.” To prepare, she took a sojourn to experience New Orleans in its off-season in the dog days of summer, when the tourists shy away from the searing heat and the locals live their lives unmolested by the never-ending party. She says she wanted to truly get in touch with the city and its character, along with doing some research about Williams himself and the place he lived, loved and wrote about. While she was there, she says the difference between Williams’ collaboration and the original script came into focus. “It’s interesting looking at that, and thinking about how everything old might be new again,” she says. For the production at Brown, Marshall says she hopes to accomplish that by having cast “an ensemble of people who would make up sort of the surrounding community,” making the city itself much more of a character in the production than it is in the film. Doing so also “makes

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opportunities for students, which I love to do, and get some of the younger students involved in certain ways.” Having made the ensemble a musical one, creating “a sound bed for the play,” she makes these opportunities more layered still. Lowry says she has “a lot of singers and instrumentalists,” but will be “careful not to overwhelm this incredibly masterful piece of dramatic writing.” Though at the time of this writing the play’s design process is in its early stages, Marshall said that in adapting the set, she envisioned something slightly grittier, truer to the initial vision before it was translated to the “rococo and frilly embellishments” that Hollywood audiences had experienced. And, in another departure from Hollywood’s lens, Marshall has the added benefit of presenting the steamy, ethically complicated and sometimes violent plot without having to kowtow to the censorship Kazan and Williams faced. For those who aren’t familiar, Streetcar is an intimate, fiery drama that follows two women — the melodramatic and alcohol-sodden Blanche DuBois and her more submissive sister Stella. When Blanche comes to stay with Stella and her abusive husband, Stanley, a “fatal pas de deux” ensues, in the very apt words of Charlotte Thomas-Davison in the theatre arts and performance studies department’s publicity arm. Marshall hopes that audience members who are familiar with any of the work’s adaptations

or other productions will have a “new opportunity to meet the play,” while those who have never experienced the celebrated work will have an enthralling first opportunity. “I’m the sort of director who wants to put the play on stage and reveal what the playwright intended to the best of my ability,” says Marshall of her rendition of Williams’ work. “It’s a great story with incredible lessons about human behavior, and it requires us as the audience to think about things that we sometimes don’t want to think about.” Here Marshall is referring to a litany of uncomfortable topics that can make even the most stalwart theatergoers squeamish: death, domestic violence and the tension between family members that can turn the deepest love into the darkest animosity. Marshall sees these human concerns as very timely ones, as well, making the play a perfect fit for audiences now: “I think we live in a world where people take sides about things, and we’re always looking to lay blame. You can see it in our politics, in our human interactions and our institutions…. And I think, in reality, more often than not, we’re all complicit in one way or another.”

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November 2013 | Providence Monthly

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Music

By Tony Pacitti

League of extraordinarily busy Gentlemen

A still-evolving band is making a splash on the local music scene

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Providence Monthly | November 2013

Dylan Sevey and the Gentlemen

Dylan Sevey and the

Gentlemen can’t slow down. Last month they were one of several local bands featured on the PBS series Meet Me at the Met. In July, lead singer/rhythm guistarist Sevey, keyboardist Brendan Moore and lead guitarist David Ponte took to Tennessee as a reworked three-man version of the band. In August they landed what has easily been their most unexpected gig – performing at The Spot for a show sponsored by Glamour magazine. “When you think Glamour you think a lot of synth or pop,” says Sevey, still scratching his head about how exactly his classic folk-rock and bluesinspired quintet wound up on the bill. “It was our big corporate sellout gig.” The rest of the band laughed off his attempts to justify it. For most of them the clincher was the promise of free booze and tacos. All of this came in the wake of the release of their debut album, Join the Club, in February. They’ve only been slinging the disc at shows for nine months, but they’ve already got their sights locked onto what’s next. “The songs still feel really good and we’re not bored of them,” explains Sevey, “but that’s because we’re consistently doing new things with them and we’re writing new songs. Now

we’re able to incorporate these new songs into our set list and it gives the old songs more life because we’re hearing how they match up.” A lot of Join the Club – a sonic quilt of county ballads, sleazy bar band blues and classic folk-rock that borrows from the likes of The Band, Bob Dylan and the White Stripes – was written by Sevey well before the formation of a band. As a result the band learned a lot of the songs mere weeks before going into the studio. For the second album there’s a fully functioning, symbiotic unit at work. Now Sevey can write songs that anticipate how bassist Steve Ellis’ punk and metal-honed energy will come into play, what gonzo time signatures drummer Keaton Albro can effortlessly wrap his sticks around, and where the perfect place for Ponte is to launch one of his oh-so-classic sounding solos into the upper atmosphere would be. It’s retroactive as well. New talents – Ellis only just joined the band in August – and an evolving group sensibility now inform the tracks Sevey had written years before the Gentlemen, opening the doors for left field possibilities like reworking a Tom Pettyesque ballad into an R&B groove by way of Marvin Gaye – a would-be goof that brought fresh energy to a song

that the band was having trouble working into sets. Since the band works so well with all five cylinders firing, the plan is to record their next album live – Join the Club was done one instrument at a time – allowing that raw, all hands on deck energy hiding just under the surface of Join the Club to come roaring to the surface. “We know that if we actually all played in the same room, actually made eye contact, did it live we’d get a better result,” says Moore. If Join the Club was their proof of concept, this next album will be their statement of purpose. Join the Club is available at shows, or at dylansevey.bandcamp.com. Want more music? Go to providenceonline. com for videos of Dylan Sevey and the Gentlemen, including an exclusive performance of their new song, “Line By the Fire.”

Dylan Sevey and the Gentlemen November 2 at KC’s Tap in Pawtucket

November 15 at Dusk with The Denver Boot, Cranston Dean, and Paper Hill Casket Company.

Photography: Tim Siekiera

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November 2013 | Providence Monthly

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Providence Monthly | November 2013

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Degrees of beauty

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a town created to be the ultimate tourist attraction for families visiting the Jersey Shore. There’s ample opportunity to chillax seaside, head down in your favorite comic book, or lazily leaf through pages of Walt Disney illustrations. Sounds about as idyllic as a Norman Rockwell cover for the Saturday Evening Post. This was Jesse John Thompson’s childhood. Though similar to his art, which he describes as multivalent, there’s more than one interpretation of his childhood. Thompson grew up in Asbury Park, the New Jersey coastal resort town made familiar to many through Bruce Springsteen’s music. But he wasn’t living in a Rockwell painting and didn’t perceive his world as a sweet slice of idyllic America. He had an for the creative, different, disturbing and even ugly aspects of reality. Given his surroundings, perhaps he was simply conceiving reality in its full complexity, beyond the immediate appearances available to him. This aesthetic sensibility towards ambiguity, experienced in his childhood, also defines his art. For example, unlike many of his peers, he wasn’t drawn to juvenile comics like Archie. One of Thompson’s most influential – and revealing – childhood moments was when he bought the comic Daredevil Love & War, by Frank Miller with illustrations by Bill Sienkiewicz, instead of Todd McFarlane’s Superman #1. “For whatever reason I have this affinity for the weird, ugly and uncomfortable, and a sort of distaste for the beautiful and

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lovely. There I am, nine years old, buying this sadistic love story told in collage painting,” Thompson recounts. Moreover, his comic book experience initiated an appreciation for the creative potential of narrative storytelling, a major theme in his art today. Then there were those Walt Disney illustrations. “My friends were probably looking at cartoon characters and Donald Duck. I was drawn to the background image, the lighting and details.” Long before he began sculpting, Thompson was busy analyzing compositional elements with an eye for creative artwork. Thompson’s childhood life has had an obvious impact on his art. In his most recent work, Dress-Up, he creates sculptures of overly cute children trying on life-casted adult limbs. Life casting is a process that involves making a mold out of a living thing –

Work by Thompson

for instance, Jesse’s foot – into a 3D representation of the body part. The finished product is so accurate it even picks up small details such as wrinkles and hairs. This technique reflects his multivalent style that captures ambiguity beyond clear-cut dichotomies between traditional oppositions like beautiful/ugly and animate/inanimate. In Dress-Up, Thompson decided to let the life cast dry without finishing it as an artist typically would. The result is a life-sized replication of a human foot that looks decayed. In his sculptures, the child gazes at the limb with a wide-eyed innocence. “I don’t like to be didactic about my work. It’s easy to make the connection of being weathered by life or brand new to life. It’s sort of like, the child has something they don’t understand, something with so much power and what happens when you start to wield that much power.” Dress-Up is Thompson’s first return to sculpture since Hung Out to Dry in Vietnam, which scored Best In Show by the Cambridge Art Association. It’s the relationship with the animate and inanimate that Thompson’s most interested in now: “Life casting happens, but sculpture is made,” says Thompson. Thompson graduated with a MFA from RISD in 2007, and now teaches at RISD and at Bristol Community College. He’s won numerous awards, including this year’s RISCA fellowship in sculpture.

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November 2013 | Providence Monthly

The Last Detail

The month-long Halloween

A traditional Day of the Dead shrine at El Rancho Grande

Providence Monthly | November 2013

binge of costumes and candy may be over, but the celebrations keeps on arolling with the Day of the Dead, from November 1-2. This two-day Mexican celebration focuses on familial gatherings remembering friends and family who have died. In a way, it’s a de-Americanized Halloween, swapping sexualized costume caricatures for La Calavera Catrina (the holiday’s iconic female skeleton dressed in historic European dress). The only place in town to celebrate is El Rancho Grande, which is rolling out a limited-time menu

featuring classic Day of the Dead dishes. (Exclusive sneak preview: Dishes include a pork and almond mole, chicken and pipian [green pumpkin seed] sauce and an as-yetundisclosed, super secret vegetarian entrée.) Although Day of the Dead happens immediately after Halloween, El Rancho Grande’s menu enters Providence’s restausphere on the Wednesday before Halloween (October 30) and goes until the following Wednesday (November 6). 311 Plainfield Street. 401-275-0808, elranchogranderestaurant.com. -Dale Rappaneau

Photography: Stacey Doyle

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