Wine & Viticulture Journal - March/April 2017 by Provincial Press Group

MARCH/APRIL 2017 · Volume 32 Number 2

CHINA

• China's wine industry on the rise • An Australian winemaker's perspective of the Chinese wine industry • Explorer's rough guide to Tempranillo •Reworking vineyards - why, when and how? • Tasting: Tempranillo

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Established 1985 Published bi-monthly Publisher: Hartley Higgins General Manager: Elizabeth Bouzoudis Editor Sonya Logan Ph (08) 8369 9502 Fax (08) 8369 9501 Email s.logan@winetitles.com.au Editorial Advisory Panel Gary Baldwin Peter Dry Mark Krstic Armando Corsi Markus Herderich EDITORIAL ASSISTANCE Lauren Jones, Write Lane CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Geoff Alexander Sheridan Barter Sue Bastian Tony Battaglene Keren Bindon Jason Brown Katherine Brown Johan Bruwer Chris Byrne Dimitra Capone Lilian Carter Justin Cohen Armando Corsi Anna Crump Wies Cynkar Bob Dambergs Leigh Francis Angelita Gambuti Alessandro Genovese Tony Hoare Cathy Howard Dan Johnson Rainer Jung Stella Kassara Geoff Kew Tony Keys Marcell Kustos Cheryl Lee Richard Lee Maria Tiziana Lisanti Larry Lockshin Mardi Longbottom Hiquin Ma Brett Mclen Jacqui McRae Luigi Moio Gwyn Olsen James Omond Paola Piombino Ella Robinson Mark Rowley Christoph Schuessler Alex Schulkin Paul Smith Mark Solomon Liz Waters Advertising Manager: Paul Andrew Ph (03) 9370 0040 Fax (08) 8369 9529 Email: wvjsales@winetitles.com.au Production and Design: Luke Westle Subscriptions One-year subscription (6 issues) Australia $77.00 (AUD) Two-year subscription (12 issues) Australia $144.00 (AUD) To subscribe and for overseas prices, visit: www.winetitles.com.au Published by Winetitles Media ABN 85 085 551 980 Address 630 Regency Road, Broadview, South Australia 5083

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The opinions expressed in Wine & Viticultue Journal are not necessarily the opinions of or endorsed by the editor or publisher unless otherwise stated. All articles submitted for publication become the property of the publisher. All material in Wine & Viticulture Journal is copyright © Winetitels Media. All rights reserved.No part may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means (graphic, electronic, or mechanical including information and retrieval systems) without written permission of the publisher. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information, the published will not accept responsibility for errors or omissions, or for any consequences arising from reliance on information published.

Sonya Logan, Editor

n recent years we’ve published many articles on the growth of Australian wine in China and reported on the findings from the research being conducted there to grow the market even further. But we thought it was about time we had a good look at the Chinese wine industry itself. How has it grown in recent times, both from a quality and volume perspective? To find out, we began by speaking with one of China’s leading wine researchers and long-time teacher of wine appreciation, Dr Huiqin Ma, from the College of Horticulture at Beijing’s China Agricultural University, and Jim Boyce, from the website GrapeWallOfChina.com, which has been covering the wine scene in China since 2007 (see page 16). We then looked for some Australian insight into how the Chinese wine industry has evolved of late, turning to Lilian Carter, a consultant winemaker based in northeast Victoria who has been visiting clients in China for 13 years (page 20). Huiqin Ma features again in our special focus on China on page 23 where she writes about the challenges of cool climate winemaking in the country – an article that draws on her presentation at last year’s International Cool Climate Wine Symposium in England.

We then return to looking at Australian wine sales in China. Mark Rowley begins by drawing on historical comparisons with the United Kingdom and United States markets to forecast where the Chinese market is heading for Australian wine exporters (page 26). Researchers from the EhrenbergBass Institute at the University of South Australia, who have kept Journal readers up to date with the findings from the suite of research projects they’ve been carrying out in China for the last four years, reveal the next phase of their work in the market thanks to further funding from Wine Australia (page 28). And for something a little bit different, we present the work being done to create a niche category for Riverland wines in China (page 30). With vintage starting to wind down for another year, may you enjoy these articles and the many others in this issue as you reflect on the fruits of your recent labour.

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IN THIS ISSUE

R E G U L A R F E AT U R E S

C O N T E N T S

WINEMAKING

8 WINE AUSTRALIA (LIZ WATERS): Incubator Initiative to strengthen regional R&D focus

33 Treatment by fining agents of red wine affected by phenolic off-odour

9 WFA (TONY BATTAGLENE): 2017: the year ahead for the Australian wine sector

40 CATHY HOWARD: Explorer’s rough guide to Tempranillo

10 ASVO (MARDI LONGBOTTOM): Fellows of the ASVO 12 KEY FILES (TONY KEYS): Wine industry research understanding the value

EVENTS

11 Mornington Peninsula International Pinot Noir Celebration

S P E C I A L F O C U S: CHINA

16 China’s wine industry is on the rise – but how far can it go? 20 The rapidly changing Chinese wine industry – an Australian winemaker’s perspective

23 Cool climate wine production in China 26 The China wine market – looking backward to look forward 28 China - this isn’t the time to pat ourselves on the back 30 Golden opportunities for Riverland wine in an expanding consumer-driven Chinese economy

46 AWRI REPORT: Exploring potential for grape objective measures to predict wine grade and style

V I T I C U LT U R E

48 TONY HOARE: Reworking vineyards - why, when and how? Part 1

52 Prototype of app to help decide when grapes are harvest-ready put to the test in vintage 2017 53 SOIL HORIZON (GEOFF KEW): Delving into the depths of Kangaroo Island red soil 54 ALTERNATIVE VARIETIES: Durif

WINE TASTING BUSINESS & MARKETING

56 What can be learned from the Yalumba v Pernod Ricard stoush over ‘Signature’? 59 The effect of simulated transportation conditions on the chemical, physical and sensory profiles of MüllerThurgau and Scheurebe wines 63 Food for wine styles – Sydney International Wine Competition

68 Tempranillo

N E W S

S N I P S

INDUSTRY WELCOMES DRAFT LEGISLATION TO REFORM WET REBATE The Winemakers’ Federation of Australia (WFA) has welcomed the release of exposure draft legislation to reform the Wine Equalisation Tax (WET) rebate. Once passed, the legislation will give effect to the reforms to the wine equalisation tax (WET) rebate announced by the Government on 2 December 2016. Interested parties were given until 28 April to comment on the exposure draft legislation. “The Australian wine industry, a significant contributor to the Australian economy, employing thousands of Australians in regional and rural communities, has fought long and hard for reform of the WET rebate eligibility criteria. The WET reforms announced last year have gone a long way to restoring integrity in the tax system, and once implemented will allow this very important sector to continue to grow and deliver benefits to rural and regional Australia,” said WFA chief executive Tony Battaglene. He said WFA would study the draft legislation closely and work with the Government to iron out any potential issues. SENATE INQUIRY RECOMMENDS VOLUMETRIC TAX FOR ALL ALCOHOL The introduction of a single volumetric tax rate across all alcohol products, allowing packaged alcohol to be sold in convenience stores, petrol stations and supermarkets, and abolishing restrictions on trading hours for liquor stores are among recommendations in an interim report from a Federal Senate inquiry. The Select Committee on Red Tape was established in October 2016 to investigate the effect of restrictions and prohibitions on business on the economy and community. Chaired by New South Wales Liberal Democrats Senator David Leyonhjelm, the committee decided to focus its inquiries on specific areas, beginning with the effect of red tape on the sale, supply and taxation of alcohol. Due to report on its various lines of inquiry on 1 December 2017, the committee released its interim report on the sale, supply and taxation of alcohol on 29 March following a call for submissions which closed at the end of January and a public hearing held in Sydney on 24 February. The Winemakers’ Federation of Australia and Wine Australia were among the 25 organisations to make written submissions to the inquiry.

www.win eti tl es .c om.au

As part of its recommendation to “progress the reform of alcohol taxation”, the committee proposed introducing a single volumetric tax rate across all alcohol, with a phase-in period to “allow reasonable adjustment”. Its proposals to allow packaged alcohol to be sold in convenience stores, petrol stations and supermarkets, and abolish restrictions on liquor store trading hours was among several aimed at supporting “the sale and supply of alcohol through consideration and implementation of evidence-based policies that aim to reduce red tape and promote job creation, and business growth and investment”. A copy of the full interim report can be downloaded from: http://www.aph.gov.au/ Parliamentary_Business/Committees/ Senate/Red_Tape/Alcohol/Interim_report APRIL FOOLS’ DAY NO JOKE FOR AUSTRALIAN WINE EXPORTERS TO JAPAN The fourth round of tariff cuts to take effect under the Japan-Australia Economic Partnership Agreement (JAEPA) came into effect on 1 April. The JAEPA entered into force in January 2015 resulting in the gradual elimination of the 15 percent tariff on bottled wine by 2021 through incremental reductions. The latest reduction in wine tariffs sees the rate drop to 7.5 percent, or ¥125/litre (whichever is less) for bottled wine. Under the agreement, the tariffs will continue to be reduced each year until eliminated. In a recent media release, the Minister for Trade, Tourism and Investment, Steven Ciobo, said the effect of the agreement had already been felt, with bottled wine exports increasing 13 percent from 2014 to 2016 to reach $35.6 million. “Free Trade Agreements (FTAs) are pivotal to improving Australian business’ access to international markets and the JAEPA is no exception,” said Tony Battaglene, chief executive of the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia (WFA). “The JAEPA provides Australian producers a competitive advantage which will only improve as the tariffs continue to reduce,” he said. AUSTRALIA’S WINE PRODUCTION, SALES AND INVENTORY RECORD GROWTH IN 2016 The Australian wine sector increased its production, sales and inventory last financial year, according to the report ‘Australian wine: production, sales and inventory 2015-16’ released by Wine Australia. The report, based on survey responses W I N E & V I T I C ULTUR E JO UR NA L MARC H /APRIL 2017

from the wine sector, showed Australia’s wine production grew by 10 percent to 1.31 billion litres in 2016 – the highest since 2006. This was the result of higher than average yields combined with aboveaverage juice extraction rates. Red wine production increased by 13 percent to 684 million litres, while production of white wine increased by 6.7 percent to 627 million litres. An additional 15 million litres of Australian wine was sold in domestic and export markets in 2015-16 compared with the year before, the report also showed, representing an increase in value of $408 million. In a domestic market that has been largely static since 2006-07, sales of Australian wine increased by 6.9 percent to just under $3 billion while volume increased 2.5 percent to 468 million litres. The value of Australian wine exports grew by 11 percent to $2.1 billion, while volume increased by 0.5 percent to 728 million litres in the 12 months to the end of June 2016. As a result of the large 2016 crush, winery inventories increased by 7 percent to 1.76 billion litres in 2015-16. Red wine stocks increased by 6 per cent to 1.07 billion litres, while white wine stocks rose 9 percent to 689 million litres, the highest since 2005-06. Inventory-to-sales ratios at the end of 2015-16 were above long-term averages for red and white wine, but inventory levels were well below 2005-06 levels of nearly 2 billion litres. A copy of the report, ‘Australian wine: production, sales and inventory 2015-16, is available from www.wineaustralia.com. ASVO ANNOUNCES MID-YEAR SEMINAR The Australian Society of Viticulture and Oenology (ASVO) will bring together the leaders in data, science, technology and engineering at its annual seminar in Mildura, Victoria, in August 2017. Local and international guest speakers will explore current and emerging opportunities for the wine industry in an engaging and interactive format. “We’ll be looking at ways to differentiate between competing technologies and examine the practical realities of return on investment as well as debating broader questions about barriers to adoption,” said Brett McClen, ASVO director and chief viticulturist with Brown Brothers Milawa. The seminar program will be headlined by Dr Mike Briers, chief executive of the Knowledge Economy Institute, and Dr Maria V32N2

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Paz Diago, of the Institute of Grapevine and Wine Sciences (ICVV) Universidad de La Rioja, Spain. Briers was named in the Knowledge Nation 100 as Australia’s chief evangelist for big data and the internet of things (IoT) and brings his vision to empower Australia’s food industry to grow its comparative advantage through digital transformation. Dr Diago’s research is focussed on the application of new technologies to the vineyard and she will share her insights into digital measurement of yield, canopy porosity, fruit composition and soil mapping and monitoring. “The Australian wine industry has benefited immeasurably from innovation and technology. The ASVO is tapping into some of the newest local and international research to ensure the ideas and techniques reach the best and brightest thinkers of the wine industry – those who will lead us into the future” said Dr Mardi Longbottom, ASVO president. The ASVO seminar will be held on the 2-3 August at the Mildura Arts Centre. Seminar attendees are also invited to join the presenters, ASVO directors and ASVO members for a shared dinner on 2 August. A detailed program and online registration will be available closer to the event at https://www.asvo.com.au/events

S N I P S

AWARD FOR VINEHEALTH AUSTRALIA Vinehealth Australia, formerly known as the Phylloxera and Grape Industry Board of SA, has received an Australian Biosecurity Industry Award by the Department of Agriculture and Water Resources. The award recognises the group’s significant contribution to maintaining Australia’s wine industry biosecurity integrity. “It’s a fantastic win for Vinehealth Australia, but really this is a win for South Australian vineyard owners,” said Vinehealth Australia chief executive Inca Pearce, who accepted the award in Canberra. “The award celebrates the commitment and vision of growers in South Australia to establish the Phylloxera Act under which we operate. And it demonstrates their continued commitment to supporting it 117 years later. However, this award also serves as a timely reminder that we must not be complacent – we all need to play our part to prevent an incursion, especially in light of the increasingly complex biosecurity landscape.” Chair of Barossa Grape & Wine Association Linda Bowes nominated Vinehealth Australia for the win. She

Vinehealth Australia chair Roseanne Healy and chief executive Inca Pearce at the Australian Biosecurity Awards. said Vinehealth Australia had provided immeasurable value to the wine industry with an unbroken 117-year focus on vine biosecurity. “Vinehealth Australia has been a silent achiever and protector of viticulture in South Australia since 1899 and has played a most significant role in the enviable high health reputation of Australian viticulture,” Bowes WVJ said.

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WINE AUSTRALIA

Incubator Initiative to strengthen regional R&D focus Dr Liz Waters, General Manager - Research, Development and Extension, Wine Australia

n our five-year strategic plan released in 2015, we announced our goal for a prosperous Australian grape and wine community and the strategies we will undertake to achieve this. We will support the prosperity of the Australian grape and wine community through a number of ways, one of which will be through our investment in research, development and extension (RD&E). Our RD&E investments on behalf of our sector are directed at building excellence and Australia’s competitive edge, and to help achieve this we need to attract the best people to work with and provide solutions for our grape and wine community. In early March, we launched a new program called the Incubator Initiative that will foster stronger links between wine regions and research and development, and support early career researchers who wish to move into the grape and wine sector. The concept for the Incubator Initiative was developed following a pilot by Wine Australia with The University of Adelaide

LETTER TO THE EDITOR

www.win eti tl es .c om.au

with our Regional Program Partners throughout the project and deliver the findings to grapegrowers and winemakers in the regions. Our six participating Regional Program Partners crafted 17 research questions for project applications in the fields of viticulture, winery management and logistics. For example, SA Central is looking to further investigate what shift change has occurred to result in the newlyemerging pest levels of scale and sooty mould in vineyards, SA North wants to know the vineyard practices that lead to the production of wines that consistently win gold medals, and Western Australia wants to examine how small producers can achieve economies of scale efficiencies in logistics and distribution. To find out more about the initiative – including the research questions for applications, Regional Program Partner contacts, application guidelines and criteria – visit www.wineaustralia.com/ research/applying-for-funding. WVJ

Drawing the plimsoll line

s a lawyer and winemaker and having taught responsible service of alcohol, I wish to respond to the article ‘Industry must demonstrate its credentials in rejecting the misuse of alcohol’ (January-February 2017 Wine & Viticulture Journal). As wine educators and ambassadors for the industry, I believe we also have a duty to promote the responsible serving and consumption of alcohol. As we know, a standard drink, as defined by the National Health & Medical Research Council (NHMRC), is one that contains 10 grams of alcohol. However, it never ceases to amaze me, despite extensive education programs, how many people consume

in 2014–15. The program, which funded five projects, demonstrated both potential value to the Australian wine sector and benefits to early career researchers as it showed the success that short-term, highly-focussed research can deliver. This year, the Incubator Initiative was made open to all early career researchers working for an Australian-based research organisation. Early career is defined as someone who has less than five years postdoctoral or post-Masters research experience. Up to $20,000 is available for projects identified by wine regions across Australia, with this funding matched by a co-contribution – cash or in-kind – from the research organisation where the researcher is employed. Project applications closed on 18 April 2017 and required answers to specific questions on the priorities identified by our Regional Program Partners, with the aim to provide practical solutions that are regionally-focussed. Research projects will be developed to answer specific needs in our wine regions, and researchers will work

too much alcohol beyond the legal limit for driving. However, I believe some of these instances may be due to a genuine mistake. This mistake may have arisen because people think the plimsoll line (the white horizontal line) which is on so many wine glasses in bars and restaurants, indicates a standard drink, when in actual fact it does not; it is a serving size, designed to help establishments manage their inventories. When talking about wine, a standard drink (containing 10 grams of alcohol) is 100ml of wine at 13.5% alc/vol. Given that a standard serving size, i.e. a glass filled to the plimsoll line, is

W I N E & V I T I C ULTUR E JO UR NA L MARC H /APRIL 2017

150ml, this would contain 1.6 standard drinks. Another example is 150ml of sparkling wine, at 12% alc/vol, would contain 1.4 standard drinks. I strongly believe that the plimsoll line on glasses needs to be clearly explained to consumers, as many people I talk to have told me they think it indicates a standard drink, or the line should be removed altogether. I encourage you when you are next out at a bar or restaurant to test what I am saying by asking people around you what they think the plimsoll line indicates – you may be surprised!

Bernadette Ulbrich-Hooper Hobart, Tasmania

WVJ

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2017: the year ahead for the Australian wine sector By Tony Battaglene, Chief Executive Officer, Winemakers’ Federation of Australia

s the 2017 vintage continues around Australia, the industry is reminded of what a normal year looks like. However, in all other respects, 2017 will not be a normal year. On the external front, the Trump Administration has the potential to significantly impact both business confidence and the international trading regime. Coupled with the fall-out from Brexit, an unsettled European Union and tensions with China and Russia, export markets may be volatile in 2017. On the positive side, international perceptions of Australian wine are improving and exports appear to be driving improved industry profitability. The WET Rebate changes, the commencement of the $50 million Export and Regional Wine Support Package and the details around the introduction of the $100,000 recurrent grant scheme, are all due to be implemented or finalised in the first half of 2017. The Winemakers’ Federation of Australia (WFA) and Australian Vignerons (AV) are working closely with the Government on these issues. WET REBATE REFORMS The WET Rebate reforms announced in May 2016 in the Federal budget and modified in December 2016 following the consultations with industry on eligibility provisions and the cap reduction, are scheduled to be introduced in legislation in mid-2017. On 5 April, the Federal Government released exposure draft legislation detailing the changes to the WET rebate, giving industry the opportunity to comment on the measures by 28 April. Depending on the availability of legislative drafters, the intention is to introduce the legislation before the end of the financial year to enable it to be passed in 2017.

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EXPORT AND REGIONAL WINE SUPPORT PACKAGE In the Federal Budget in May 2016, the Australian Government announced that it would provide $50 million over four years to increase wine exports and grow domestic wine-related tourism through the Export and Regional Wine Support Package. Stage 1 of the package is to develop a detailed and costed business plan for Ministerial approval by the end of 2016-17. To develop the plan WFA, AV and Wine Australia (AGWA) have established the Export and Regional Wine Support Package Reference Group with the objective of providing input to the design and operation of the business plan working closely with the consultants. WFA president Sandy Clark is the chairman of the Reference Group. The Reference Group will report to the boards of WFA, AGWA and AV, who will endorse the final recommendations on the package to the Minister. With the program due to commence on 1 July 2017 there is not much time. The Minister has made it clear that she expects AV and WFA to lead this project. WFA and AV are determined that the whole industry has the opportunity to put their views forward and are working closely with members and State and Regional Associations to achieve this outcome. $100,000 RECURRENT GRANT SCHEME From 2018-19, a wine tourism and cellar door grant program will allow producers who exceed their cap to access a grant of up to $100,000 for their cellar door sales. The grant will be provided for wine sold direct to consumers (through the cellar door or mail order) once producers have reached the WET rebate cap of $350,000. The grant may not be claimed

against wine which has already been claimed against a producer’s $350,000 cap. The program will be capped at $10 million per year. The Government is currently developing eligibility criteria and we expect that there will be a public consultation on this in March. Following the consultation we expect legislation to be drafted and implemented in late 2017. From our discussions with government we expect that the grant will be linked to investment in the regions, possibly through a physical cellar door asset. It will only become available following the reaching of the WET rebate cap by a producer. DEVELOPMENTS ON THE ANTI-ALCOHOL FRONT On the threat side, the anti-alcohol lobby is working assiduously to restrict the wine sector. They are attempting to influence the government to introduce mandatory warning labels, increase tax to equivalence with beer and further reduce the recommended levels of alcohol consumption through the review of the Australian Guidelines to Reduce the Health Risks from Drinking Alcohol. CONCLUSION WFA has never been as busy in advocating on behalf of the wine sector. We have a Government that acknowledges the key role that the two national representative bodies play and we are working closely with all political parties to advocate in Canberra. There are many issues apart from those highlighted above that we are working on. Please see our website www.WFA.org.au for details or let me know what we can do for your WVJ business.

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A S V O

Fellows of the ASVO By Mardi Longbottom, President, Australian Society of Viticulture & Oenology

ach year the ASVO board has the opportunity to elect Fellows from amongst its members who have made a particularly outstanding and meritorious contribution to the grape and wine industry. It is an exciting and humbling part of our role to reflect on the history of both the ASVO and the Australian wine industry and, in doing so, acknowledge those whose significant contributions have had an enduring impact. ASVO Fellows have a valued role within the ASVO. Their contribution to ASVO activities is ongoing. In the past year, our Fellows judged presentations at the Australian Wine Industry Technical Conference, they served on the ASVO Awards selection committees, edited seminar proceedings, reviewed the constitution, and Terry Lee has continued to lend his expertise in the role of editor of the Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research. In 2016 the ASVO board introduced a new process in the nomination and review of Fellowships by calling on our membership to assist. We made a call for nominations for Fellows and enlisted a panel of existing Fellows to consider the nominees and make a recommendation to the board. This allowed us to draw on the collective industry knowledge and experience of our membership to identify those who had

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made an exceptional contribution to the industry and the ASVO during the course of their careers. The response to our call was fruitful. The selection panel also brought more than 155 years of collective experience to the table and, in doing so, led to the invitation of two new Fellows, Brian Croser and Di Davidson. We are again seeking nominations from ASVO members to recognise our peers. If you know an ASVO member who has made a particularly outstanding and meritorious contribution to the grape and wine industry and is worthy of recognition for their exemplary contribution to the ASVO, please nominate them for invitation as an ASVO Fellow. Nominations can be submitted throughout the year, online on the ASVO website (www.asvo.com.au). Nominations to be considered in 2017 close on Friday 1 September. Please refer to the eligibility criteria when preparing your nomination. WVJ

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A bird’s eye view of the Mornington Peninsula’s Pinot Celebration By Cheryl Lee, Executive Officer, Mornington Peninsula Vignerons Association. Email: Cheryl@mpva.com.au

Cheryl reports on this year’s Mornington Peninsula International Pinot Noir Celebration, which was held on 10-11 February 2017.

his year’s eighth biennial International Pinot Noir Celebration was attended by 220 people from various parts of our country and the world. As keynote speaker, London-based wine writer Jamie Goode opened proceedings by extricating the meaning of this year’s theme: The Alchemy of Pinot Noir – People, Place and Time. As he explained: • People - Wine is a partnership between people and place – vines are planted by people; wine is made by people; sites are interpreted by people. Wine is then consumed by people and it is people who decide what constitutes a great Pinot Noir. This is decided by the ‘community of judgement’ – the result of all the perceptions and interaction between us and the wine, a holistic interpretation of the wine and the learning and communications we all contribute to. • Place - Terroir is at the heart of the interesting wines. Pinot Noir can be seen as a lens for interpreting sites – only good sites can produce interesting expressions of wine. • Time - Finally, vine age, bottle age and the evolution of the wine industry all lead into our total understanding of great wines. Regarded as the best yet, this year’s Pinot Celebration continued to highlight the many areas of interest in the variety from those wanting to know more. The Mornington Peninsula Pinot Project tasting was presented by Dr Mark Krstic, from the Australian Wine Research Institute and highlighted 2014 and 2015 vintage wines made from five vineyards by one winemaker. Data collected during the life of this project, which will continue for five years, emphasised the differences between the vineyards, with aerial footage of each vineyard exposing the topographical nature of the region and the individual sites.

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A tasting of 12 Mornington Peninsula 2015 Pinots Noirs proved a wonderful representation of the region's Pinot Noir in a wonderful vintage, showing true expressions of this small but diverse area. The 12 wines had also been sent

W I N E & VITICULTUR E JO UR NA L MARC H /APRIL 2017

to key members of the wine trade and media and tasted prior to the Celebration in London, New York, Denmark, Canada, Japan and Hong Kong. Short video feedback was played during this session, highlighting the perceptions of Pinot Noir generally as well as New World Pinot Noir and Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir. US-based guest Joe Czerwinski provided insights into the US market for Pinot Noir. He suggested Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir is a unique expression of the variety, “not the sinewy structure of great Burgundy, not the puppy fat plushness of Californian wines or the in-your-face dark fruit of Central Otago. [Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noirs] have a seamlessness, of steady ripening with moderate temperatures, with tannins that search easily across the palate like the tide around a rock, enveloping it and slowly fading away leaving nothing behind but yearning for another sip”. During the bracket of Pinots selected by wine writers, Josh Elias, editor in chief of Alquimie magazine, suggested a great Pinot doesn’t have to be profound, but should simply “speak in an everyday conversive manner”. Jane Skilton MW warned that “miserable winemakers make wine with no soul” and wine writer Max Allen talked of the ”great wine character” or wines that have “it” – structure, tannins, earthiness and distinctiveness. Jamie Goode created his very own ode to Pinot Noir for the closing comments stating, “Mornington Peninsula is a serious place for Pinot Noir and I am now going to seek out these wines…I love the layers, the perfume and the integration of the savoury elements into the fruit. There are few destinations in the world where you can find the lovely mid-palate richness, texture, density and savoury elements that integrate into the WVJ core of the wine.”

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Wine industry research understanding the value By Tony Keys

There aren’t enough pages in the Journal to do a thorough analysis of whether all the research being funded by Wine Australia for the benefit of the Australian wine industry is well-founded. But Tony makes some general observations of its value then, by way of example, focusses on those projects of particular interest to him, namely those targeting our export markets, specifically the US market.

his article ranks as one of the most difficult the editor has commissioned me to write: is the research currently being funded by Wine Australia for the benefit of grape and wine producers worthwhile? I didn’t think the topic would be so difficult when the subject was put forward, but the complexity became apparent as I started probing. The difficulty lies in the fact that there appears to be few precise answers; there is a huge amount of feeling and opinion but little of it results in what I consider a conclusion. Wine Australia (WA) says ‘yes’, pointing out its funding has to be justified otherwise it wouldn’t give the grants. Researchers say ‘yes’ because ultimately it’s of benefit to the industry. Detractors only say it’s not justified because they feel it’s a lot of money to spend, but are unable to give reasons for their view. Others are concerned that not enough research money is being granted to certain areas. To do the unthinkable for this journal, I present my summing up before delivering the unfolding story: Research is good for the industry but the industry is unsure if the money allocated to it is always justified. If that reads as an over simplification, there is a ‘but’ and the ‘but’ is getting to the bottom of why the allocated money is not justified. I have had many discussions over the years on the worth of various

…any research project that seemed a good idea and worth investing money in at a given point in time can shift out of focus by the time the research is completed.

aspects of the wine industry, including industry research. But this is where the industry becomes vague in pinpointing what should and shouldn’t be researched. It’s akin to talking politics in the front bar; there’s a lot of talk about what should be done and who is to blame for not doing it, but factual why, how and who exactly is going to right the wrongs is ambiguous and becomes vaguer as the night and drinks roll on. My take is, in many cases what looks to be worthwhile research into any given subject loses traction over the course of time that the research is being carried out (often years). In short, any research project that seemed a good idea and worth investing money in at a given point in time can shift out of focus by the time the research is completed. HISTORY The 2015–2020 Strategic Plan of the Australian Grape and Wine Authority (which trades as Wine Australia), outlined what was considered the key investment priorities in market development, regulatory services and research, development and extension over the five years to 2020. As we are now in 2017 how is the strategic plan travelling? According to the document released announcing the plan all sectors of the industry were consulted: • Wine Australia’s primary stakeholder group – WGGA (now Australian Vignerons), Winemakers’ Federation of Australia (WFA) and the Australian Government • the chair or president of each of the 72 regional sector organisations • Future Leaders alumni, which includes graduates of the Australian Rural Leadership Program and Nuffield Australia (sponsored by Wine Australia)

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• the Innovation Policy Committee, an R&D-focussed committee established by WFA and WGGA • RD&E providers • state wine sector bodies • Australia’s First Families of Wine • the top 20 wine producers. In his introduction to the plan, Wine Australia chair Brian Walsh quotes Dr Alexander C. Kelly who wrote Wine-growing in Australia (1867): “The time has now arrived when the wine-growers of this colony must bestir themselves and boldly face the difficulties before them. They must be prepared to take their stand on ground already occupied by the experienced wine-growers of Europe…” Did Walsh miss the irony in the 150-year-old quote that Australian wine has failed and failed time and again during those 150 years to achieve what Kelly so clearly saw it was capable of in the mid 19th century? The other anomaly is Australia’s growers and winemakers are now among the most globally experienced in the 21st century. That fact alone makes the sentiment of Kelly’s quote invalid. There are lessons to be learnt in the use of this quote; in fact, many lessons. Is not understanding the past the route to the future? Has enough analysis been done on those past failures to pin the root cause of those mistakes before embarking on new research? Walsh’s introduction is followed by another from Wine Australia CEO Andreas Clark which says, “We will address the clear challenge of the image of Australian wine, particularly in the UK and US markets, by bringing renewed attention to our exceptional fine wines.” A worthwhile sentiment but a worthless platitude considering the Kelly quote. Did neither of these leaders of the Australian wine industry in the 21st century consider the reason for those past failures, especially the UK? Clark and Walsh would have been better using, better still grasping the full understanding of Raymond Postgate’s introduction in the book The Wines of Australia, by Harry Cox, (London, Hodder and Stoughton, 1967) exactly a century after Kelly: “The worst enemies of Australian wines in Great Britain are the Australians themselves. I mean, specifically, the exporters and importers of Australian wines over the last 50 years. Everyone of middle age or older has been influenced by and remembers well the advertisements of white haired doctors recommending to frail old ladies 'ferruginous flagons' of 'Australian burgundy', and so forth. The wines corresponded to the propaganda almost too well. They often tasted of iron, which was not very agreeable, and were of medical value only to the anaemic. They were sold in flagons, because they were not worth keeping (you can’t lay down a flagon to mature). They were cheap because of Empire preference. They were also pretty strong, and the frail old ladies could get tiddly quickly and with complete respectability. 'Coarse, strong, cheap and good for you – that was the picture the Australians drew for us of their own wines.” In the early ‘60s national UK wine merchant Peter Dominic was still offering Emu Ruby, Tawny and white for 14 shillings a bottle. The rise and fall of Australian wine in the UK and USA in the era 1987 to 2010 fully reflects Kelly’s sentiment of 1867 in as much as Australia did stand its ground and face the difficulties. Then it all fell apart. If the chair and CEO of Wine Australia don’t already understand the why of the past, no amount of academic research will give them an answer to understanding the future.

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What drives choices? I would hazard a guess the drivers are the same as in most other Western markets, price and fashion. How deep the research needs to be is debatable considering a little common sense applied to known facts will provide answers.

The difficulties with the UK and USA market did not arise before but after the success of the late 20th and early 21st century. The success of that period was as much chance as it was anything else, so Clark saying, “Bringing renewed attention to our exceptional fine wines,” shows a lack of understanding for both the UK trade and consumers globally. Is it that difficult to see the connection between the UK consumer that Postgate was talking about and the consumer of the 1980 and ‘90s and into the 21st century? In essence, the UK lover of Australian wine pre and immediately post the Second World War was for fortified wines; sometime in the ‘60s and ‘70s this changed to table wine (the same pattern in Australia). As Portuguese Port and Spanish sherry catered for those in the professions and the self-styled new middle class (those in lower administration positions), Australian port and cypress sherry was the drink of blue collar workers’ wives, mothers-in-law and grans living in the back parlour. Post WWII the male blue collar worker (both UK and Australian) was, in the main, a beer drinker. During the early ‘70s wine became more acceptable to the middle aged male; by the end of the ‘70s and into the ‘80s, men who were middle Baby Boomers, say, born in the period 1953-60, and young men (early Gen X), no matter their occupation, were drinking wine. The attraction of Australian wine to a mass audience from that point and surviving today was no more than an evolution of the fortified wines their parents and grandparents enjoyed. RESEARCH The current research being funded by Wine Australia is listed under the following headings: • biosecurity, pest and disease management • climate adaptability • customer insights • efficient and sustainable vineyard management • efficient winery production • enhanced yeast and bacterial performance • enhancing grapevine and rootstock performance • grapegrowing for excellence • market access • sustainable resource management • wine provenance and measures of quality. Each heading incorporates several projects, for example, biosecurity, pest and disease management consists of: • risks and management of exotic and endemic phylloxera • sampling strategies for sensitive, accurate and cost-effective detections of phylloxera for quantifying area freedom status • developing a threat-specific contingency plan for the exotic pest ▶ angular leaf scorch

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• grapevine trunk disease management for vineyard longevity in diverse climates in Australia • a generic approach to improving spray coverage. Following the progress of each research project would require a book rather than an article so my focus for this article is on consumer insights in the US market. USA Customer insights in the US market is sectioned into: • context and wine composition effects on Australian wine consumer mood and liking • ‘advance Australia fair?’ Determining the country of origin associations for Australian wine in emerging and established markets • harnessing Chinese social media and accelerating Australian wine exports • driving the strategic growth of Australian wines in the US export market • the opportunities for further market share expansion of Australia’s regional and premium price segment wines in the US market. The objective of ‘Driving the strategic growth of Australian wines in the US export market’ is what it says - to drive the strategic growth of Australian wines in America. The objective continues with, “To do this the perceptions of trade, key influencers and suppliers in the US market of both Australian wine and its key competitors [will be sought].” Apparently the research will measure the US wine trade and opinion leaders’ views of what drives choices in the US market. What drives choices? I would hazard a guess the drivers are the same as in most other Western markets, price and fashion. How deep the research needs to be is debatable considering a little common sense applied to known facts will provide answers. KNOWN FACTS AND COMMON SENSE According to the Wine Australia export report to end of December 2016, wine exports to the US increased 3 percent to $458 million on the previous year, while volume declined by 5 per cent to 160 million litres. Around 100 million litres was bottled wine worth around $395 million. Looking into the price/volume segments the largest in volume was 87 million litres in the $2.50 to $4.99 litre FOB sector, accounting for $302 million. According to Shanken News Daily on 27 January 2017, Casella’s Yellow Tail brand retails in the US at an average of US$6.99 (A$9.24) and sells around 8 million nine-litre cases. As John Casella proudly states, Yellow Tail is bottled in Australia therefore we can be assured none is shipped in bulk containers. Eight million cases translates to 72 million litres. It’s my unconfirmed estimate Yellow Tail is in the $2.49 to $4.99 litre FOB sector.

One of the more telling findings … is the knowledge that regular US$20-plus wine buyers who had not purchased Australian wine in the past 12 months were significantly more likely to have negative perceptions of Australian wine quality or flavour or had negative experiences with them.

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Returning to the research brief the aim is to, “develop and simulate testing marketing strategies to overcome the issues identified; and develop a simple Excel™ based decision support system to allow wine marketers to adjust their strategies to better meet the needs of the American wine trade and opinion leaders.” It’s uncomfortable, especially for Wine Australia, to define brand Yellow Tail as an issue either for the good of, or detriment to all Australian wine brands in the US. Unfortunately, as can be seen by the figures, the Yellow Tail brand is a major influence on Australian wine in the US. The remaining 28 million litres are across all price sectors but can the undoubted influence of Yellow Tail be ignored, especially as the Wine Australia brief is, "to increase the demand and premium paid for Australian wine in the US market" and also develop strategies that address barriers that, "currently exist with the trade and opinion leaders"? Larry Lockshin, head of the School of Marketing at the University of South Australia Business School and Professor of Wine Marketing at the Ehrenberg-Bass Institute for Marketing Science, is in charge of the project and when asked how it was progressing (March 2017) he replied: “This project has had a bit of a slow start. We have conducted interviews with about 20 Australian wine exporters to the US, asking them about their experiences and what they see as barriers to growth in the US. “We have agreed with Wine Australia to focus on the states of New York, Texas and California for data collection, since the budget does not allow wider selection of markets. Previous research we did in the US several years ago showed little difference in consumer behaviour between disparate states. "We have obtained email addresses for a number of distributors and retailers in the three states. “We are putting together a survey based on the barriers identified by the Australian exporters to see if they line up with the American view of the issues. That will go out to several hundred distributors and retailers in the next couple weeks.” The brief ends, “Once validated, these strategies will form the basis for an Excel-based decision support system.” Although not received in relation to this article, I am reminded of a private exchange of emails between myself and an anonymous commentator earlier this year during which emerged the following: “Reminds me of AGWA’s five year strategic plan of 2015 to lift the average FOB export price of Australian bottled wine above those of all our major competitors. Easy really, just stop exporting YT, JC and Hardy’s Stamp series. If Australia would only stop selling millions of cases of popular inexpensive wines all our problems would be solved.” Some truth in jest? Staying with the US, the project titled ‘The opportunities for further market share expansion of Australia’s regional and premium price segment wines in the US markets’ started in 2015 and is running to June 2019 under the direction of John Gillespie, founder and CEO of market research company Wine Opinions. Gillespie reported to Wine Australia twice in 2016: one was a report on consumers and the other a follow-up on the trade. The focus of the consumer report was a 10 question quantitative survey of US high frequency wine consumers to establish a baseline of awareness, perceptions and trial of Australian wines in the US market. It’s a good report and deserves greater attention than given here but broadly, it addresses how selected American wine drinkers view Australian wines in 2016 and involved the following:

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• frequent wine drinkers (on average drinking wine several times a week or more often), most of whom are highly involved with or influential on wine-shopping decisions • wine consumers who purchase 750ml bottles of wine at retail costing more than $20 on a monthly or more frequent basis. It’s a selective audience and not one that can be used to gauge the wine drinking habits of all Americans but maybe one that can fulfil Clark’s statement of “bringing renewed attention to our exceptional fine wines”. • Although hardly a representation of 320 million Americans, a reasonable selection of regular wine drinkers, a total of 1363 consumers, participated in the survey. Some findings include: in the past year Australian wine purchase rates among consumer respondents was on par with purchase rates for Argentinean wine, and well below rates for Spain, Italy and France • Australian wine is less likely to be purchased in a fine wine shop than other channels • one-quarter of respondents had not purchased an Australian wine in the past 12 months, most often because they like other wines better or don’t know much about Australian wine and don’t know which ones they’d like. One of the more telling findings and the target market for what Clark refers to as fine wine is the knowledge that regular US$20plus wine buyers who had not purchased Australian wine in the past 12 months were significantly more likely to have negative perceptions of Australian wine quality or flavour or had negative experiences with them. The good news was that those who had purchased Australian wine in the past 12 months rated under $15 and over $15 Australian red and white wine above average on their price/quality ratios (value). The dislike, perceived or otherwise, among many American regular wine consumers was, “Australian wines are too fruity or jammy.” Cutting to the chase I think it fair to say Yellow Tail and a lot of the critter brands that proliferated in the ‘90s and early 21st century were/are fruity in character. No matter the desire to be recognised for fine wine, the fact is Australia isn’t. This may hurt the ego but, more importantly, it supresses the retail value. What is really needed is for Australian fruity wines to sell for higher prices, but that remains in the land of the wishing-well. There is a lot more in the full report but this is telling, “Higher end Australian wines are hard to find”. This has more to do with the consolidation of American distributors then the quality of Australian wine. Turning to the trade report, some 20 interviews were conducted with retailers who stocked as little as four SKUs to those stocking more than 50 SKUs. The respondents spanned the US from New York to San Francisco. Again, it’s too small a sample to judge the whole US retail sector. But this was interesting and holds some hope: “Despite a crowded market, far more trade members were interested in adding new wines than not. Interest was greatest in the US$15-US$25 segment and lowest for new wines priced above US$35; and there was equal interest in adding white and red wines.” It sounds good and, being positive, applies to the 70 percent of those interviewed who think there is growth opportunity for Australian wine. It still leaves 30 percent who were pessimistic about the future. There was more negativity in the 25 percent of on-premise

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respondents who did not list any Australian wines. This was balanced with 40 percent listing one to four, 16 percent listing 10 or more. Returning to the US retail market and, coincidently, the crux of this article (justification of research funding), the Gillespie report mentions the negativity towards Yellow Tail, “and the opinion that it and other brands flooded the market with low quality value wines in the past”. It cannot be denied Yellow Tail is still a top selling wine for many retailers. Yet, those who have tasted/drunk top end Australian wines have, “a generally positive impression of them”. The conundrum for retailers in the USA, UK and Australia is that the quality of wines is not always what sells it. The consumer is more concerned about reputation and price. Reputation need not be deep and sincere but broad and popular. Producers may wish to partake in the higher quality and higher priced retail market but they know full well if they did so to the exclusion of the lower sections they would soon be out of business. It’s unlikely new research will provide producers with any greater information than they already possess. Wine producers today do as Postgate wrote some 50 years ago - they export the style of wines at the prices the importers (nowadays led by supermarkets) want.

Wine industry commentator Tony Keys has spent more than 30 years in the wine industry including the retail sector in the UK and roles with the Australian Export Council and the Australian Wine Bureau in London. He is author of The Key Report, a weekly report containing news, views, analysis and opinions on the wine industry: WVJ www.thekeyreport.com.au

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China’s wine industry is on the rise – but how far can it go? By Sonya Logan

There has been plenty of media attention in Australia of late on the growing market for our wine in China. And rightly so, given China has grown to become Australia’s most valuable wine export market. But what of the Chinese wine industry? How has it grown in recent years, both from a quality and quantity perspective? And how do regular Chinese wine consumers feel local wines are stacking up against their imported competitors? To find out, Wine & Viticulture Journal editor Sonya Logan put some questions to one of China’s leading wine researchers and long-time teacher of wine appreciation, Dr Huiqin Ma, from the College of Horticulture at Beijing’s China Agricultural University, and Jim Boyce, from the website GrapeWallOfChina.com.

ince 2009, Beijing-based wine writer Jim Boyce has been holding annual wine tastings in China’s capital where about a dozen regular wine consumers gather to blind taste up to 40 wines retailing in their country for under RMB100 (just under A$20). Explains Jim, whose website Grape Wall of China has been covering the wine scene in China since 2007, “The Grape Wall Challenge is our way of putting the spotlight on Chinese consumers, the people who buy the wine but who sometimes seem like an afterthought. We ask consumers to be judges and taste wines blind, give them scores and discuss their choices. “We tend to focus on wines that retail for less than RMB100 as these don’t get much coverage in the trade but make up the bulk of the market.” Boyce only invites China’s top importers and distributors to donate wines to his consumer tastings as this ensures the wines are as readily available as possible to everyday wine drinkers. Only imported wines featured in the first three consumer tastings, while a handful of Chinese wines were including in the fourth edition of the event in 2012. The following year, Boyce decided to dedicate the entire event to Chinese wines. Eight reds and eight whites retailing for RMB150 (nearly A$30) or less were tasted along with a further five priced from RMB199-790 (A$38150) to give the consumers an appreciation of what else China was

A map of China with red dots indicating the location of wine producers. Although the smaller dots indicate small producers and bigger dots big producers, the size of the dot is not representative of the ratio of their wine production.

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Jim Boyce, of www. grapewallofwine.com.

Dr Huiqin Ma, from Beijing’s China Agriculture University.

capable of in this price bracket. All wines were from well-regarded producers. As is the practice in all Grape Wall Challenges, the consumers tasted each wine on a simple “love it”, “like it”, “dislike it” or “hate it” scale. Overall, the consumers were impressed the wines before them were made in China, which Boyce says wasn’t surprising given many Chinese consumers who have tasted imported wines tend to look down on the local offering because they’ve only ever tasted “poor quality, mass-produced ones”. Last year’s Grape Wall Challenge was again dedicated solely to Chinese wines, specifically from Xinjiang, Ningxia, Inner Mongolia, Shanxi and Shandong. The flights comprised white and red wines under RMB165 (A$31) and from RMB166 (A$31) to RMB320 (A$61). Again, all had good reputations and national distribution. One of the consumer judges, a marketer in the food sector, expressed surprise at the wines from her home region of Ningxia. “I know we have great weather for grapes, and I know we can make good wine, but I didn’t know we can make it that good!” she said. “It was beyond my expectations.” Several of the consumers commented on the relatively high price of the local wines, but most were surprised by the quality of what they tasted. While Boyce says his Great Wall Challenges don’t pretend to provide insights into broader Chinese wine consumption preferences, they do give a snapshot – and that snapshot would suggest wine made in China could be finally starting to gain some traction among local wine drinkers. As to whether they can afford it is another question. “Overall quality is improving, driven by an influx of decent inexpensive imported wines and a consumer base increasingly

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buying based on taste,” says Boyce, “but it still has a way to go. In terms of the better wineries, they can produce international-quality wines but the prices for many are seen as prohibitive.” Given the climatic challenges of growing grapes in China though, just how much more can we expect the quality of Chinese wine to improve? “There is no doubt wine quality can improve in a region such as Ningxia, if only because there is so much to be done in the vineyards,” Boyce continues. “I’ve taken winemakers on tours and they have been surprised at how haphazard the vineyards are, from poor canopy management to vines with different grape varieties mixed in the fields. According to the Ningxia government, the goal is to get 60 percent of the region’s vineyards to what it considers international standard by 2020, which means that even then there would be room to improve. Many of the wineries are also new so there will be room to boost quality via improving systems, the experience gained through successive harvests, and possibly experimenting with different grapes.” According to the latest official statistics, China produced 11,370 hectolitres of wine in 2016. However, this figure includes wines made from imported juice as it is based on wine production, not tonnes crushed. The area dedicated to vineyards in China is 799,000 hectares, of which 10-15% is estimated to be winegrapes, with tablegrape production accounting for the lion's share. Dr Hiquin Ma, of the College of Horticulture at the China Agricultural University in Beijing and long-time friend of Jim Boyce, says using the figure of 15%, and assuming an average yield of 7.5 tonnes per hectare, this puts China’s wine production in the vicinity of 6300hl, based on a kilogram of grapes making 700ml of wine. However, she says some experts have estimated China’s wine production at less than 5000hl. Given the official total for wine production in China is rather misleading, getting a handle on just how much this may have grown in recent years is difficult. The figures (Table 1) in fact suggest that wine production has declined. China’s top five wine-producing regions, based on grape acreage (including tablegrapes) is Xinjiang (150,300ha), Hebei (86,490ha), Shandong (43,280ha), Ningxia (32,430ha) and Gansu (27,650ha), according to 2015 data. All regions produce more tablegrapes than winegrapes except Ningxia where less than a third of vineyards grow tablegrapes. Ma says the main varieties grown in China are Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Gernischt, Merlot, and Chardonnay, with Cabernet Sauvignon well and truly leading the reds (Table 2). She explains the oldest winegrape vines in production in China today at a commercial scale are 20-30 years old. In Ningxia there is around 15ha of Pinot Noir that is more than 20 years old and some Cabernet Sauvignon around 20 years old. It has also been reported there is a vineyard planted more than 25 years ago in Shandong province, China’s oldest wine region, where vines aren’t buried in soil to protect them from China’s harsh winters. While there remains a need in China to bend canes to the ground and bury them in soil, the country is unlikely to have large-scale vineyards of more than 20 years old. As Ma explains, bending canes becomes harder as vines age and canes get thicker. The only province to collect official data on the number of wineries within its boundaries is Ningxia, with the 86 wineries currently up and running about to double with a further 98 under construction. Estimates of the number of wineries in the other main provinces (Table 3) could be lower, says Ma, as very small or ▶ new wineries may not be taken into account. V3 2N 2

Table 1. Official annual wine production in China. Year

2010

2011

2012

2013

2014

2015

2016

Production 13,000 13,200 13,511 11,780 11,178 11,200 11,370 (1000hl) Table 2. The leading varieties in China’s major winegrape production regions.

Region

Total Wine Acreage production (ha) (tonnes)

variety

Xinjiang

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay

17,000

100,000

Changli, Hebei province

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Shiraz

66,000

70,000

4667

50,000

5333

40,000

Sauvignon, Huailai and Zhoulu, Cabernet Chardonnay, Dragon’s eye Hebei province (also used as tablegrape) Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Gernischt, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Chardonnay

Ningxia

Data resource: Decanter China https://www.decanterchina.com/

Table 3. Estimated number of wineries in China. Liaoning Inner Province Shandong Hebei Xinjiang and Jilin Gansu Mongolia Yunnan Number

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Wineries often source from dozens or hundreds of farmers, who deliver their fruit in everything from trucks to scooters.

Tiansai, in the northwest region of Xinjiang, invested heavily in its vineyards, symbolising a new attitude toward quality.

China’s biggest wine producers, in descending order, are Changyu, Greatwall, and Grand Dragon. After these follow the likes of Dynasty, Mogao, and Tonghua. Although he only mostly tastes wines made by producers with a national distribution, Jim Boyce says most of these wines have also scored best with critics or have performed well in wine shows. In Xinjiang, in the nation’s far northwest, Boyce says one of the best producers is also one of the newest, Tiansai, an operation where the owners put a great deal of time and effort into creating their vineyards. “Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay lead the way but my favourite is the Cabernet Franc,” he says. “Others include Puchang, creating a buzz for its organic wines, Champs D’or, a veteran that seems to be gaining momentum, Niya, from the major company CITIC Guoan, and 1421, made in Xinjiang, stored and bottled in Shandong, and seen in Beijing restaurants and hotels as well as in the Metro supermarket chain”. Ningxia is China’s “core quality producer”, Boyce continues, with wineries such as Kanaan, Helan Qing Xue, Legacy Peaks and Silver Heights putting out good Cabernet-driven blends. “Their white wines are less prominent although Legacy Peaks Chardonnay is among the best drops I have tried in China and Kanaan makes decent Riesling and off-dry whites. Wines from foreign-invested projects, such as Helan Mountain by Pernod Ricard and Domaine Chandon with its bubbly, are also nice options. Ningxia has dozens of operations making palatable wines, it’s mostly a matter of finding them in the market and at a reasonable price.” Just across the border from Ningxia is Hansen. Boyce’s pick here is Carrefour. “I like their Cabernet Gernischt, a grape said to be Carmenere,” he offers. Continuing to move east to Shanxi, Boyce says Grace Vineyard is arguably China's most influential winery of the past decade. “It produces a wide range of wines, rather than just one or two labels, at fair prices, starting from RMB60 per bottle. It also continually experiments, with Aglianico, Shiraz and Marsellan joining its portfolio ranks in the past few years along with four sparkling wines.” One the east coast of China, Boyce says Nine Peaks makes some of the best wines in Shandong, adding its entry-level Cabernet is “particularly good”. “In nearby Hebei/Beijing we have long waited for the former

Sino-French Demonstration Vineyard (ZhongFa) and sibling operation Canaan (not to be confused with Kanaan in Ningxia) to finally come online. These guys have made tasty wine for more than a decade, including Marsellan and Petit Manseng, and it’s a matter of getting it to market. “In the far northeast, there is good icewine being produced in Liaoning, including by Changyu.” In Yunnan, in the south, Boyce says Moet-Hennessey “made a splash” with its Ao Yan label, which is produced at about 2500 metres and costs several hundred US dollars per bottle. “Expect more soon from Yunnan,” he tips, “hopefully at lower prices.” Boyce says what’s interesting for those who have been following the Chinese wine market for some time is the increasing number of quality producers. “I could name even more but the ones I’ve listed are some of the intriguing players,” he says. Hiquin Ma says that although there are no official figures on wine consumption in China, production and import data can be used as a guide, notwithstanding wines can get held up in storage or cellared rather than consumed. From these figures, she concludes there is an increase in wine consumption in China based on the growth in the volume of wine being distributed around the country, and the growing percentage of the population who has experience in drinking wine. Imported wines have significantly increased in volume and value and this growth looks likely to continue, she says. Again, although there is no data available on the amount of wine sold through the various retail channels in China, Ma says a few years ago the on-trade sold significantly more wine than the off-trade. “What I can tell you is that on-line sales have made great progress in very recent years,” she says, adding that Jingdong, one of the largest B2C online retailers in China, sold RMB0.4 billion of wine in 2015, which climbed to RMB1.5 billion in 2016. Ma says that although most wine is sold around RMB100-200 per bottle, there has been an increase in the volume of wine being sold at lower prices, that is less than RMB40, through online channels. Boyce says China’s wine market has gone through a major transition since the government cracked down on spending on luxury goods by officials in late November 2012. The austerity measures forced distributors, including many that benefited from good government contracts, to shift their focus to consumers,

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The annual Grape Wall Challenge is conducted in Beijing and features Chinese consumers as wine judges.

Visiting winemakers do a tank tasting at highly regarded Silver Heights in Ningxia.

who buy much lower quality wines, are more price sensitive and can be demanding in terms of service, says Boyce. “Thousands of companies disappeared [from distributors’ books] but consumers have filled the gap and we seem to have emerged with a healthier and, hopefully, more sustainable market,” he says. “Add to this the growing disposable income of consumers, the ease with which people can buy wine online, and more interest in wine via experience, travel and a growing number of magazines, websites and other sources, and there is little doubt the market is growing and increasingly sophisticated. “From my own perspective in central Beijing, which I admit isn’t representative of China, I see more of my friends interested in wine and more people at restaurants ordering a glass or a bottle, although quality wine bars are still fairly rare,” he observes. Despite the disproportionate focus by foreign media on the growth of wine in China, the fact remains it is the world’s biggest market for spirits and beer, but only the fifth or sixth for wine. However, Boyce says wine has several advantages which should ensure it will continue to grow in popularity among consumers, barring any economic downturn. These included its association with worldliness and sophistication, with health benefits, and with being an alternative to the potent spirit baijiu for business entertaining. “We have long seen wine used in everything from movies and TV shows to bank ads and apartment complex names to denote status and that idea is fairly well-entrenched now,” he says. Of course, riding off the back of the rise in the popularity of wine in China is Australia. “Australia has an enviable position of sending the secondmost bottled wine to China after France, and having the highest value per bottle of any major source,” says Boyce. “Yes, Spain has almost nearly as much volume, but the amount declared per bottle is woefully low. Chile is a bit higher than Spain for value but even further back from Australia in volume. Beyond that, there isn’t anyone else even remotely close. France is the runaway leader for volume, which is understandable given that country is seen as synonymous with wine for some consumers, but Australia is the major success story of the past five years.” But other countries are snapping at our heels, with the US, Italy and Georgia to name just a few countries who in the last 12 months have reported significant increases in imports into China. But Boyce feels Australia can hold its own…at least for now.

“There are reasons to think Australia will continue to thrive. Australia is seen as a source of dependable products, which is of immense importance given food safety concerns in China. It has the kind of fruit-driven wines that please most consumers and uses grape varieties people know from buying French wine. It has a free trade deal that sees duties drop year by year and has further benefited from currency fluctuations. And, it is not only a destination for Chinese tourists but also immigrants,” Boyce says, referring to the Chinese nationals who obtain four-year business innovation visas, many of whom establish businesses in Australia WVJ that buy high-end local wine and export it to China.

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For further information, please contact Kauri AUS Tel: 1800 127 611 Email: info@kauriwine.com

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The rapidly changing Chinese wine industry – an Australian winemaker's perspective By Lilian Carter

A consultant winemaker based in north-east Victoria, Lilian has been involved in winemaking projects in China since 2004. We asked her to share what changes she’s observed in the local wine industry in those 13 years.

hina is a country where things move fast. I first visited in 2004, amidst the pre-Olympics building boom. This was when bikes were an essential mode of transport for most Beijingers; the bike lanes were congested and you could easily hail a taxi with the wave of a hand. Thirteen years on, the bike lanes are a breeze to navigate and you need a smart phone to track down a taxi. That kind of transition is typical of nearly every aspect of life in China. Over those 13 years I’ve had the opportunity to be involved in winemaking projects from the established wine region of Ningxia to the frontiers of Xinjiang, on the western border, travelling to China more than 40 times. One of the things that keeps me going back is a fascination with how quickly the industry is changing. A decade ago Chinese wine production was dominated by state-owned companies such as Great Wall and Chungyu, which produced poor quality wines in large volumes. Now there are a multitude of stories emerging of Chinese wines winning awards at international competitions. So, what has changed in the last decade? The demographics of the market have evolved rapidly in tier 1 and tier 2 cities.

Lilian Carter in the Tiansai vineyard in Gobi, Xinjiang, China. Urbanisation, aspiration and connectivity means Chinese consumers are savvy and discerning in all their purchases. They have embraced wine consumption and invest enthusiastically in educating themselves. They think and drink globally and the imported wine category has shown strong growth. For many of these consumers, wine is a new phenomenon – something they would not have seen their parents drink. Many buy most of their wine online. The domestic Chinese wine industry

clearly saw this change approaching. Driven by national pride as much as competitiveness and economic opportunity, the industry, strongly supported by the government, has embarked on a decade of ‘raising the bar’. It has invested in new technologies, encouraged joint ventures between Chinese and international wine producers, and in 2012 Ningxia joined the International Organisation of Vine & Wine (OIV) as an observing member.

An aerial view of the Tiansai winery and vineyards in Xinjiang, in northwest China, the country’s largest province.

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This has built a diverse wine industry and quality has improved markedly. The massive state enterprises, as well as smaller privately-held wine companies have established new vineyards, wineries and brands with quality at the forefront. Privately-owned wineries to watch include Grace Vineyards, Tiansai (for whom I consult), Silver Heights, Helan Qing Xue, and Kanaan. However, nothing is simple in China and there are many complex challenges, particularly in the vineyard. The traditional wine-producing region of Yantai struggles with warm, wet conditions during the growing season. Further inland and west the winters are bitterly cold and dry with Ningxia and Xinjiang regions burying vines under the earth as a form of insulation. Shangri-la, in the south, is extremely remote and difficult to access. Along with climatic constraints, China’s tumultuous political history has influenced its farming practices and impacted its ability to set up vineyards. Land ownership and water access are hurdles. For instance, it is not possible to own land directly and agricultural land is usually run by ‘rural collectives’. Therefore the careful establishment and management of a perennial vineyard carries more risk and little reward when compared with simple annual crops that can be grown and harvested without such a significant capital outlay. Access to skilled vineyard labour is another issue impacting wine quality

Tanks inside the Tiansai Winery in Xinjiang. outcomes. Rapid urbanisation means people are less willing to work as farmers and those who do are itinerant with knowledge not retained from season to season. Of course, limited supply and strong demand means wages are rising significantly. And Chinese native and globally-trained winemakers are in high demand. The lack of arable vine-growing land, along with other constraints mean that China doesn’t have enough production capacity to meet local demand, and will struggle to gain a similar cost advantage in winemaking as it enjoys in many other industries. But the Chinese character is frequently defined by an audacious willingness to

take on a challenge. As that attitude gets applied to wine, the industry is evolving quickly. My clients have clear visions of what they want to achieve and are willing to learn from experts. With the government’s strong support of the wine industry some of the endemic challenges to winemaking in China are being addressed. There have been changes in policy which have resulted in greater security of land tenure, and there is a drive under way to professionalise farming from small patches growing a variety of crops to efficiently managed blocks of land. Extensive trials and research are occurring into ways of mechanising production. Some impressive advances

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Shoot thinning and vine training being carried out in the Tiansai vineyard in Xinjiang in northwest China. have been made. Machinery has been designed to rip fertiliser deep into the vine rows where soil quality is poor. And partially-mechanised alternatives are now emerging for the laborious task of burying and uncovering vines. The same use of technology is apparent in the winery. A decade ago, walking into a winery I would see rows and rows of stainless steel tanks, broken and mouldy tiled floors, poorly maintained and basic equipment, RDVs used for more than just lees recovery, cooling of large fermenters using lukewarm water flowing over the outsides of tanks, cooling units that never worked, dank cellars, poor drainage, red fermenters being emptied by wheelbarrow loads, screw presses, and no consideration given to the treatment of wastewater. Now, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m more likely to come across the latest optical berry sorters or crossflow filtration in a Chinese winery than in Australia. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen a fully gravityfed winery with tanks inside elevators, inert gas push through systems, resin floors, conveyor systems and forklift access with designs that consider process flow. And, just as importantly as an improvement in design and equipment, the winemaking teams are now aware of the importance of temperature control and oxygen management. Another trend we see because of this approach is that businesses that bring innovative winemaking products to market are investing heavily in the Chinese market. Flexcube is one example of an innovative Australian product that has identified Chinese producers aiming to lift quality as key

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customers. Lallemand and Enartis are actively supporting Chinese winemakers, working together on trials to manage fermentation and extraction levels. A final observation would be domestic wine producers tackling the pervasiveness of online channels by extending their direct interactions with customers via business models that prioritise the wine experience. Winery developments typically include hotels and reception venues. Tourism and wine club memberships are heavily promoted. So, as of today, the Chinese winemaking industry that I see is energetic and impatient. It fully recognises all the challenges it faces; first in the production of quality winegrapes, then in the nuances and greyness of winemaking, and finally in the difficult task of wine sales, and is addressing each issue with vigour. The quality of wine at all price points is improving, but the price:quality ratio is far from a level that would support significant volumes of exported Chinese wine. China does now make some internationally competitive wines, but this level of quality is still in very small volumes. At most price points, a comparison of Chinese wine to Australian (or other major producing countries) will show far better value outside of China. While much effort and many resources have been thrown behind the Chinese wine industry to build up the reputation and prove to the world that it is possible to make very good wines throughout China, consumers are still sceptical and are largely unaware of how far

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winemaking practices and resultant Chinese-produced wine has improved. Jim Boyce, of Grapewallofchina.com, has been following the industry closely for the last decade and has been running a consumer-based wine challenge in China that asks general wine consumers to rate Chinese wines. He agrees that most Chinese are very sceptical about the possibility of finding good local wines but the key - as with wine from anywhere - is getting it into their mouths and getting multiple bottles side by side to prove that internationally competitive quality is possible from China. Where all this goes in the future is probably as easy to predict as the extent of the changes that would occur in personal transport. With that caveat in place, my estimate is that Chinese winemaking will continue to focus on serving steadily growing numbers of domestic consumers. There will continue to be low volumes of exported Chinese wine sloshing around the industry. The price:quality ratio will continue to be the strategic focus for the industry, supported by the adoption of new technologies and importation of key winemaking expertise from overseas.

Lilian Carter is a consultant winemaker based in north-east Victoria specialising in ensuring the sustainability and success of small and medium sized producers that contribute to a diverse Australian wine industry. She also has clients in China. Email lilian.carter@ vinemark.com.au or visit www.vinemark. com.au WVJ

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Cool climate wine production in China By Huiqin Ma, China Agricultural University, Beijing, China

Drawn from her presentation at last year’s International Cool Climate Wine Symposium in England, Huiqin explores the challenges of making cool climate wines in China and the endeavours being made to overcome them.

lthough there is no global consensus on what defines cool climate viticulture, in Australia cool regions are regarded as those that have a large diurnal temperature variation, mean average temperatures in January and February of below 20℃ and less than 1550 growing degree days per year. John Gladstones, in the Oxford Companion to Wine, defines cool regions as having an average mean temperature of below 16℃ during the growing season (April to October in the northern hemisphere).

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(e) While the number of growing degree days per year is an important indicator in defining a cool climate, we also need to consider the distribution pattern of the degree days. If we only looked at the number of growing degree days, regions like China would be defined as cool climate and unable to grow vines at all because the degree days are accumulated in a very short period of time, and therefore the total number of growth days is not enough for vines. July and August are the hottest months in China. Compared with other

wine regions, such as those in Europe, With its heavy population, there are Australia, California and so on, daylimited areas that can be used to grow time temperatures are higher and more grapes,4500 especially 1600 3500 5000large-scale wine 8000 6500 significant, while night time temperatures grapes. Furthermore, the climate overall 600 3300 4000 4700 5200 7500 9000 are also higher, with very little cooling is not the best fit for Vitis vinifera, which down effect from the sea. China in originated from a very different climate. general is very hot and humid in July and August. COOL-CLIMATE WINE REGIONS IN CHINA

(d) TEMPERATE CONTINENTAL MONSOON CLIMATE China has a diversified climate across the country. In general, in the east half of China, from north to south, is warmer and receives more precipitation than the rest of the country. The line that separates (a) north and the temperate climate in the the subtropical climate in the south is located around latitude 33 degree north (remembering China is a big producer of citrus). Western China sees increased altitudes from north to south; the vast Qinghai-Tibet Plateau does not support vine growth because of the overall low heat conditions. Northwest China, including Xinjiang and Gansu, have a temperate climate; in these areas water is (f) besides another limitation for agriculture the low winter temperatures. Geographically, China is a country with a big shortage of farming land.

(g)

China has colder winters and hotter summers than most other areas at the same latitude across the globe (Figures 1 and 2). Short growing season The growing season in China is relatively short. Harbin, situated in the northeast of the country and known for experiencing the coldest winters of all major Chinese cities, has an active accumulated temperature of 2800℃, with a growth season of just 150 days. The mean annual temperature in all regions in China is not meaningful as the average mean temperatures in July and August are usually high. China’s cool climates are characterised as follows: • unstable spring, risk of late frost in late April and even early May, short autumn • challenging for berry ripening and ▶ vines postharvest.

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Figure 1. Average mean temperatures in China in July. Source: Zheng et al 2013 V3 2N 2

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Figure (e) 2. Average mean temperatures in China in January. Source: Zheng et al 2013

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CLIMATIC DATA FOR CHINA’S MAJOR WINE REGIONS Ningxia • annual active temperature accumulation of 2900-3300℃ • frost-free period of 156-165 days • 200mm annual rainfall Huailai-Zhoulu • annual active temperature accumulation of 3376-3592℃ • frost-free period of 150-170 days • 400mm annual rainfall

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Shanxi • annual active temperature accumulation of 2835-3511℃ • frost-free period of 160-183 days • 450-500mm annual rainfall Gansu • annual active temperature accumulation of 2730-3200℃ • frost-free period of 150-160 days • 110mm annual rainfall LET THE WINES SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES The following are some of China’s cool climate wineries producing some good quality wine: • Helan Qingxue - became the first Chinese wine to win a trophy at the Decanter World Wine Awards in 2011 for its 2009 Jabeilan Grand Reserve (International Trophy for Red Bordeaux Varietals over £10). • Silver Heights - very well recognised boutique winery; Jancis Robinson and other wine commentators visited the winery recently and gave very high remarks. • Helan Mountain - belongs to Pernod Ricard, produces quality wines, especially Chardonnay; its 2011 Special Reserve Chardonnay won a gold medal at the 2014 La Revue du Vin de France Chinese Wine Competition. • Yuhuang Winery – has won a few silver medals in Decanter wine awards; famous for its Cabernet Gernischit red wines. • Chandon - belongs to LVMH; like other Chandons in the world, IT produces quality sparkling wine and has one of the best wineries fit for tours in China; received a commendation in the 2016 Decanter Asia Wine Awards for its NV Chandon.

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Figure 3. Cool climate wine regions in China. 1: Ningxia, 2: Huailai-Zhoulu, 3: Shanxi, 4: Gansu • Kanaan Winery - a very new winery, but has quickly established a reputation; its specialty is Riesling; its 2013 Pretty Pony red won the Asia Red Regional Trophy at the 2015 Decanter Asia Wine Awards. • Grace Vineyard – based in Shanxi; may be the most famous Chinese boutique winery outside of China; Chairman’s Reserve is its best wine which has won several awards in Decanter World Wine Awards. • Chateau Rongzi – also from Shanxi; won several national wine awards; produces elegant wine styles. • Martin - a winery in the HuailaiZhoulu region; doesn’t focus on medals, but does produce good quality, reasonably-priced wines. • Amethyst – also based in the HuailaiZhoulu region; its 2012 Marselan won a silver medal at the 2015 La Revue du Vin de France Chinese Wine Competition; its 2012 Danbian Superiore Chardonnay won a gold medal at the 2014 La Revue du Vin de France Chinese Wine Competition. • Sino-French – also located in the Huailai-Zhoulu region; the first to grow Marselan in China; produces very good quality wines; its 2011 Chateau Franco Chinois Petit Manseng won a gold medal at the 2014 La Revue du Vin de France Chinese Wine Competition

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CHALLENGES FOR CHINESE WINE PRODUCERS Due to the climate there is a high cost involved in achieving reasonable quality wine in China. In general, the major additional cost in making Chinese wines is in burying the vines with soil in early winter and taking the vines out in the spring, contributing to about 30% of the total production costs. The wine production tax is also high in China and there are possible additional costs in pesticides due to the continental climate in summer. Many Chinese wines feature green/herb flavours, are thin bodied, light in colour, and have raw tannins Almost half the volume of wine consumed in China and more than half the value (total sales of around 1000 million litres) is imported. Chinese wineries are currently searching for creative promotional ideas and ways of maintaining a profitable price point. If Chinese wineries compete purely on price with imports it can be hard for them to maintain a market share that is sustainable. So Chinese wineries are looking at value add services and brand building, such as winery visits, wine education, club activities, WeChat groups and Chinese consumer-friendly brand names and label designs. Such initiatives could help Chinese wineries maintain a profitable price point. Crop losses to late frosts are common

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in China as are vine losses to winter damage. Severe harsh winters and bad late frosts have occurred in almost every decade, each time causing losses of vines or increasing the spread of trunk diseases. Burying old thick vines in winter is difficult as canes get thicker and become stiffer. Thus, it is hard to see China having large-scale vineyards with vines of more than 20 years old. High humidity in summer means there is a risk of chemical residue ending up in wines. The humidity increases fungal risk, requiring farmers to apply more sprays than in dry summer areas. Moreover, given the less advanced spray equipment in China, a larger amount of pesticide (lower droplet dispersity) is required, increasing the risk of more residue. SOLUTIONS TO CHINA’S CURRENT CLIMATIC CHALLENGES In an effort to overcome the country’s climatic challenges, China has taken various measures to overcome them. In the short term, this has included pulling out late-ripening varieties, particularly the red winegrape Cabernet Gernischt, which DNA profiling recently revealed was in fact Carmenere. Controlling yields is also being carried out. Traditionally, growers have mainly been paid by berry weight, though Brix is sometimes considered. The lower price on offer to achieve certain Brix levels has resulted in growers producing heavy yields and sacrificing quality. If yields are cut by half or two-thirds, quality is improved. Berry selection via machine has been adopted by many boutique wineries, and requests by wineries for increased quality are growing. In the short to medium term, producers are also modifying training systems with trials under way in every wine region in northern China to re-evaluate the berry ripening characteristics of various varieties, mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Cabernet Gernischt, with different yields and new trainings system. Traditionally, many winegrapes in China are grown according to table grape methods, mainly a fan system where clusters are scattered almost everywhere in the canopy, meaning the ripening of clusters is uneven. Now, a modified soft trunk training system is being adopted, where clusters hang more in a line (Figure 4).

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Figure 4. An example of the more modern training systems being used in China. Better vineyard management is also becoming more prevalent including standardised viticulture, evenly growing vines in vineyards, standard pruning, drip irrigation, fertilisation based on soil analysis data, and better pests and diseases control. Education, learning and communication of what makes a good grape, the international standards for high quality grape production and how to grow high quality grapes for wine production will help grapegrowers, winemakers and owner of wineries alike. In the longer-term, the following will be beneficial: • The diversification of winegrape varieties in China - while Cabernet is predominantly grown in China today, more varieties need to be tested for high quality wine production to diversify the varietal structure of Chinese wines. • The increasing production of flagship varieties like Marselan – a Bordeaux blend style of wine. Marselan has won many medals for Chinese wines. Cabernet Sauvignon is the leading variety in China, however, there are already several world-leading production regions for Cabernet. Therefore, it could be hard for China to be recognised as being among the best Cabernet producer. Thus, maybe Marselan or other varieties that perform well in China can serve as flagship varieties, like Shiraz for Australia and Sauvignon Blanc for New Zealand.

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• Increased data for the industry - data on meteorology, berry quality, wine consumer behaviour, taste preferences at different price points etc will help us to better fine tune our industry to respond to climate change and the highly globalised market. • A new wine culture – this will put focus on the next generation, on their taste preferences, their way of getting wine information and how, when and with who they drink wines. • Increased consumer studies - more consumer studies will lead to the making of more consumer-friendly products that better meet their needs and respond to changes in their consumption patterns. • A more cohesive industry – like wine industries elsewhere, the industry in China is a rather long chain; communication and interaction within it needs to be enhanced; an industry that is updated and responsive better copes with market challenges. • Learning from both the Old World and New World - previously the Chinese wine industry learnt almost solely from France, almost exclusively from Bordeaux. Now the industry is beginning to realise there are more regions than Bordeaux. New World experiences could be more beneficial to Chinese wine regions. REFERENCES Zheng, J.; Bian, J.; QuanSheng G.E.; Hao, Z.; Yin, Y. and Liao, Y. (2013) The climate regionalization in China for 1981–2010. Chin. Sci. Bull. (Chin. Ver.) 58: 3088–3099, doi: 10.1360/972012-1491 WVJ

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The China wine market – looking backward to look forward By Mark Rowley, Industry Analyst, Wine Australia

y favourite Mark Twain quote is, ‘History never repeats itself but it rhymes’. China’s wine boom has many of the hallmarks of past booms and these can provide lessons for the future. This article examines the China wine market with this theme in mind, first drawing a historical comparison with United Kingdom and United States markets, then looking where the market is heading with the projection of key recent trends, and concluding with some factors that will be conducive if these positive trends are to persist. THE PAST In the past year, Australian wine exports to China increased by A$149 million to A$520 million. Although impressive, this growth was exceeded by growth in exports to the United States in 2002 – an additional $259 million – and growth in exports to the United Kingdom in 2004 – an additional $161 million. During the boom years, the US recorded three years in excess of A$100 million growth while the UK recorded five years of such growth. The key takeout is that Australia is capable of harnessing the opportunity being presented in China because we have done so in the past. However, in the early 2000s, the rush to supply the growing opportunities overshot the mark, which led to an overhang of stock. This subsequently undermined the category at a time when the value of the dollar soared and the global economy entered into recession, which conspired to send exports lower. A thorough understanding of what went wrong during this period will help to put a stop to repeating past mistakes in China. One marked difference between China and the other two markets is that the China market is much more fragmented. In 2016, there were 1372 exporters to China compared with a maximum of 411 to the UK and 399 to the USA (both peaked in 2006). This is despite the value

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of exports to the UK and US then being almost double the current export value to China. The top 10 Australian exporters to the UK and US have consistently accounted for around 80 per cent of the market, whereas the top 10 exporters to China accounted for 38 percent in 2016 (up from a low of 23 percent in 2012). The range of exporters recorded in the export data is likely due to the dispersion of the China wine market itself and its many routes to market.

... it will be some years before China takes the crown from the US as the largest wine market on earth. Increasing urbanisation and incomes combined with an uptake of wine culture will continue to propel consumption.

The gift giving culture means corporations can be large buyers. Sales through retail stores account for a much lower share of wine sales and there are no dominant retailers akin to Australia’s Woolworths/Coles duopoly. The rise of online retailing is also keeping the market fragmented. As a result of the dispersion, many of the Australian exporters are not winegrape levy payers. This essentially means that they do not have the backing of vineyards or a winery/crushing facility and they run a relatively capital-light business. The oversupply of winegrapes and winemaking capacity from the 2000s has allowed this model of wine business to thrive. One potential outcome is that when the growth of exports tightens the supply of wine, the export market will consolidate in favour of the businesses holding the winemaking assets.

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THE FUTURE Although forecasting will inevitably be wrong to some degree, it is useful for planning purposes. This is where it’s wise to heed Twain’s words that history only rhymes. This look to the future only takes into account current trends. In reality, any number of ‘black swan’ events can come along to make the projection obsolete. Nevertheless, the projection gives insight into where the market is likely to go given its current trajectory. According to Euromonitor (a market research firm), the China wine market is expected to continue to grow strongly into the foreseeable future. Euromonitor has projected the market to increase by an annual compounding rate of 9 percent to US$34 billion in 2020. These rates of growth still mean it will be some years before China takes the crown from the US as the largest wine market on earth. Increasing urbanisation and incomes combined with an uptake of wine culture will continue to propel consumption. Imported wine has been winning an increasing share of Chinese consumers’ ‘wine throat’. Currently, imported wine accounts for a 24 percent share of the Chinese wine market and its proportion of the market is growing faster than consumption growth. If this trend towards imported wine persists, while assuming the Euromonitor projected growth, the total value of imports is projected to grow at an average compounding rate of 16 percent per annum until 2020. Australia’s volume share of the imported bottled wine market was 15.4 percent in 2016. This figure has been on an upward trajectory over the past five years, however it remains well below the highs recorded in the mid to late ‘naughties’ (see Figure 4). The trend forming over the last four years indicates that Australia’s share of the imported bottled wine market is likely to increase in the following years.

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CN HE IWN SA

Million AUD

$1,200

120%

$1,000

USA

100%

China $800

80%

$600

60%

$400

40%

$200

20%

USA

China

Figure 1. Historical exports to United Kingdom, United States and mainland China. Source: Wine Australia

Figure 3. Top 10 exporter share of exports. Source: Wine Australia

Exporter count

Volume share

1,600 1,400 1,200

0.25 USA

UK 0.2

China

1,000

0.15

800 600

0.1

400 0.05 Imported wine share

200 0

Australian share of imports 0 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016

Figure 2. Exporter count to key markets. Source: Wine Australia BUILDING ON THE MOMENTUM Market fundamentals suggest that the broader China wine market will continue to grow strongly, imports will continue to win share and Australia will continue to gain share of the import market. There are good reasons to support this argument. Apart from the excellence of Australian wine, Australia has advantages over our competitors, which include: • The China-Australia Free Trade Agreement rectifies one factor that lowered Australia’s market share over the last five years. As the course of tariff reductions is yet to conclude, the full force of this agreement is yet to be felt. • Positive perceptions of Australia by Chinese consumers. Research conducted on behalf of Wine Australia by Roberta Crouch found that Chinese people see Australia as ‘authentic’, ‘exciting’, ‘sincere’, ‘strong’ and ‘reliable’ and they associate these perceptions with our wine. This trust is a key reason why categories such as vitamins, beauty products, skincare

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Figure 4. Bottled imported wine share of the Chinese market and the Australian share of bottled imports. and baby milk formula are recording strong growth as well. Furthermore, Australia’s wine export approval system gives Chinese customers added confidence that when they buy Australian wine, it contains what is claimed on the label. • The proximity to China and its expat and student communities are also a strong benefit. One key trend opportunity that hasn’t been used a lot with wine is celebrity endorsement or a clever product placement. NBA basketballer Yao Ming and martial artist and actor Jackie Chan both have interests in the Chinese wine market. Other Australian consumer goods businesses have been successfully implementing this strategy. Some notable examples include: • Weet-Bix with Taiwanese-Chinese reality TV star and ‘supermum’ Alyssa Chia • Bubs – a baby milk producer that has issued 17 percent equity to an ‘angelic’ Chinese internet celebrity tasked to help promote the brand in China • Blackmores has appointed retired

W I N E & VITICULTUR E JO UR NA L MARC H /APRIL 2017

tennis professional Li Na as official brand ambassador, and Chinese film and television star Fan Bingbing inadvertently became a public supporter for the brand when she dropped a tube of Blackmores Vitamin E cream from her bag while being photographed at an event • Swiss take a more traditional approach with the use of western celebrities such as Nicole Kidman. These are just a few examples where sales of Australian products have surged as a result of publicity. Some of these instances are luck, however other businesses have been more strategic in their approach, such as the linking of Novak Djokovic with Jacob’s Creek. China presents the opportunity for Australian wine businesses to develop strong business relationships to successfully navigate the export boom we are currently experiencing. There are a number of factors working in our favour but, to realise the opportunity, relationships are the key to success, along with time and effort in the market. WVJ

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China - this isn’t the time to pat ourselves on the back By Justin Cohen, Armando Corsi, Larry Lockshin, Richard Lee and Johan Bruwer, Ehrenberg-Bass Institute, University of South Australia

The findings of a suite of research projects at the Ehrenberg-Bass Institute at the University of South Australia have provided the Australian wine industry with a substantial body of knowledge to improve the appeal of Australian wines in China and to Chinese visitors to Australia. But there’s still more work to be done in this rapidly-evolving market.

or more than four years, Wine Australia has generously of Chinese visitation. Chinese tourists who have a cellar door supported a team of researchers at the Ehrenbergexperience have a higher propensity to buy Australian wine for Bass Institute of the University of South Australia to at least six months post visit. With advances in the accessibility improve the understanding of the Chinese wine market. Four of Chinese social and digital platforms by foreigners, capturing separate projects have been funded and reports are available Chinese cellar door visitors’ details and continuing a conversation for download from www.wineaustralia.com/research and with them after their departure from Australia could prove fruitful www.marketingscience.info/wine. This journal has graciously for increasing the sale of Australian wine back in China. published 13 articles on our collective China research. Back The findings of this suite of Chinese research projects are issues can be referred to for detailed summaries of our findings. substantial. However, this isn’t the time to pat ourselves on the The foci of these projects have been: back. China is a rapidly evolving market. It should be thought of • tracking Chinese wine buying in dog years: one year in China is like behaviour seven years anywhere else. We need • developing a Chinese lexicon for to consistently work to update our wine market knowledge until development ... there is virtually no data available • optimising wine education protocols in China normalises. Replication that empirically demonstrates how for novice Chinese wine drinkers and extension are paramount. To • measuring the effect of Chinese be clear, we don’t mean just the to grow the base of Australian wine tourist cellar door experiences. development of the wine market, but buyers in China. These projects have contributed more broadly the development of the fundamental knowledge towards country and the need to establish an improving how Australian wines can evidence-based understanding of be better orientated both back in how Chinese consumers search for China and to Chinese visitors to Australia. information, shop, purchase and consume products. The wine The China Wine Barometer has established benchmarks category is somewhat restricted in knowledge, but even the of awareness and perceptions of Australian wine amongst its biggest categories and the richest multinational manufacturers competitors in China, as well as identifying patterns of buying are lost to a certain extent in the abyss of poor data access behaviour in both brick and mortar and online retail channels. and questionable insights to develop and implement brand The Chinese Lexicon Project has established how Chinese and category development strategies. At present, virtually wine drinkers navigate tasting terminology and shows that even all consumer wine research in China is limited in scope. The regular drinkers in China are much more likely to use generic sampling that occurs with varying specification usually relates to rather than specific taste descriptors to describe wine. This regular drinkers of imported wine. suggests we may be wildly ahead of ourselves focussing on Let us first focus on the positive. There is now a significant detailed wine education with the masses. Lexical equivalents body of knowledge that Australian brands can use to effectively have been verified to help the industry engage with Chinese market to the Australian category’s current consumers. This is consumers where strategically necessary, in a more Chinese good. However, there is virtually no data available that empirically manner. Wine Australia has developed and launched the demonstrates how to grow the base of Australian wine buyers Australian Wine Flavour Card based on this research. in China. Sharp (2010), in his seminal book How Brands Grow, Our work on wine education protocols using Chinese in chapter four ‘Which customers matter most’, addresses the international students as a proxy for novice wine drinkers back importance of increasing penetration as the pathway to growth in China has elucidated the most effective pathways to structure through a focus on light and non-buyers. Shifting a shopper to education. From an economic perspective, the project has shown making a purchase once versus never in a time period or nudging the diminishing return of multiple education touchpoints. This a one-time buyer to buying twice rather than focussing on heavy suggests that the single masterclass is the most cost effective buyers is the pathway to growth. Sharp and Romaniuk (2016) in process to effect positive change to perceptions of the Australian How Brands Grow: Part 2 extended this to emerging markets category in a huge market like China. including China using a number of categories, but wine was not The cellar door research has demonstrated the potential value one of them.

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Wine Australia has provided the Ehrenberg-Bass Institute at the University of South Australia with further funding to extend its research in the China market and investigate how to increase the demand for Australian fine wine. Photo: Wine Australia Wine Australia has funded our research team to extend our work in the China market. In 2017 and 2018 we will be investigating how to increase the demand in China for Australian fine wine. According to the Wine Australia Market Bulletin (Wine Australia 2016), mainland China is our number one export market accounting for roughly one-quarter of total export value. Our goal is to help Australian wine brands grow further in China. This is a comprehensive project that will incrementally build new knowledge to cohesively link mental and physical availability research in order to identify levers that will help increase the demand for our great wines, especially among light or non-buyers of Australian wine. Future articles in this journal will summarise the key findings of this project stage by stage. Over the next 18 months, we intend to increase our industry’s body of knowledge beyond our current customers, in more cities and in more channels by identifying viable growth pathways. This is where the battle will be fought and where Australian brands can win. REFERENCES

T H E 17 t h I N T E R N AT I O N A L

C O O L C L I M AT E W I N E S H O W 22nd - 29th May 2017 The ICCWS is internationally recognised as Australia’s foremost show for inspirational cool climate wines. Each year the ICCWS attracts more than 500 wines in up to 42 classes, including new Italian Classes thanks to a recent partnership with the Italian Chamber of Commerce and Industry.

ENTRIES ARE OPEN (until Friday 10th March)

- Opportunity for a new audience to taste your wine at our Public Tasting for over 200 discerning guests or at the Awards Dinner. - Chance to put forward your wines at a Master Class for 30 sommeliers held in Melbourne. - Benchmark like against like.

Enter online now:

www.marketingscience.info/wine Romaniuk, J. and Sharp, B. (2016) How brands grow: Part 2. Melbourne: Oxford University Press. Sharp, B. (2010) How brands grow. In B. Sharp (Ed.), How Brands Grow, Melbourne: Oxford University Press, 16-27.

www.coolclimatewineshow.org.au Further information contact:

info@coolclimatewineshow.org.au

Wine Australia (2016) Continuing growth in demand for Australian premium wines. Marketing Bulletin – Issue 44. Available at www.wineaustralia.com/news/ WVJ market-bulletin/issue-44. V3 2N 2

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Golden opportunities for Riverland wine in an expanding consumer-driven Chinese economy By Anna Crump1, Sue Bastian1 and Chris Byrne2 1 School of Agriculture, Food and Wine, The University of Adelaide, Waite Campus, South Australia 2 Riverland Wine, Loxton, South Australia

A consumer insights study is under way aimed at creating a niche category for Riverland wines in China by exploring Chinese expectations and preferences for wine style, packaging and marketing of Australian wines, particularly those from the region.

hinese consumers are increasingly willing to spend as the country transitions from an export-driven economy to one that is consumer-driven. With Australian wine exports to mainland China now valued at A$474 million (up from A$27 million 10 years ago), wine producers must adapt their usual business practices and wine offerings for this rapid market evolution. Understanding the Chinese wine consumer in terms of cultural attitudes, taste and packaging preferences is key to building brand awareness and strengthening the success of products entering the fast-paced Chinese market. In order to produce wines specifically for China, and potentially increase the Australian market share of an import market currently dominated by French wines, Australian wine producers must improve their understanding of Chinese consumers in order to communicate their products’ attributes in a manner that is both relevant and engaging. It is well understood that Asian food styles and taste preferences differ to those of Western consumers, however, few studies have investigated wine preferences of the Chinese consumer. The sheer size of the population and vastly different regional taste preferences means that conducting robust, holistic studies in China are both logistically and economically challenging for researchers wishing to learn more about this market. The current consumer insights study, led by Dr Anna Crump and Associate Professor Sue Bastian at the University of Adelaide, and funded by the South Australian River Murray Sustainability Program, Riverland Wine and the Subei Research Institute (Shanghai Jiao Tong University), in conjunction with The Australian Wine Research Institute, will expand our knowledge of Chinese consumers and their wine preferences. With a specific focus on creating a niche category for wines from the Riverland region, the project aims to provide a thorough exploration of Chinese expectations and preferences for wine style, packaging and marketing of Australian wines and, in particular, those with Riverland provenance, along with a greater understanding of other intrinsic and extrinsic purchase drivers linked to the consumers’ willingness to pay. The project will also include a review of the production capability of the Riverland region, which will identify the opportunities or any barriers to effectively produce a wine product specifically for the Chinese market. To gain preliminary insight into Chinese culture, traditions, wine preferences and purchase drivers associated with wine consumption, several focus groups were held comprising a

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Figure 1. Word cloud showing focus group responses describing wines from the Riverland region. total of 48 Adelaide-based Chinese wine consumers (Figure 1 and 2). The outcomes of the focus groups were used to guide the development of a questionnaire, distributed online to consumers in the Chinese market. The questionnaire was disseminated to 1000 Chinese wine consumers residing in one of three first-tier cities (Shanghai, Beijing and Guangzhou) in China. It encompassed questions relating to: Australian grape wine consumption and purchasing, along with a range of questions covering preferences for sensory attributes of wine, packaging and labelling; wine knowledge and country of origin perceptions. The findings from the survey have been used directly to guide further product development activities, specifically, wine selection for in-depth sensory and Chinese wine consumer preference studies, and the design of several label and bottle concepts. The survey found that 80 percent of respondents had previously consumed an Australian wine, with 50 percent indicating they ‘liked the taste’ of Australian wine, and approximately 30 percent of respondents felt Australian wines were ‘good quality’ and ‘provided health benefits’. Results from the survey supported previously published research into Chinese taste preferences, which found that these consumers prefer sweet, fruity wines with low complexity (e.g. less oak characters). The majority of respondents indicated sensory attributes such as tropical fruit, floral, citrus, tree fruit and berries were preferred, compared with spice, oak, woody, minty and herbaceous characters which were less desirable. The results indicated Chinese consumers still prefer a cork closure, with more than 55 percent of those surveyed selecting this closure type as their preference.

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Figure 2. Focus group attendees participating in a wine preference test in Adelaide. Commercially-available Riverland wines that best matched the consumer preferences identified from the focus group discussions and online questionnaire were sourced. Approximately 50 wines produced from 100 percent Riverland grapes were identified, consisting mainly of red, rosé and sweet white styles, and included a number of alternative varieties grown in the region. The wines were screened against specific sensory and quality criteria by wine industry experts and Riverland stakeholders to identify a more manageable number of wines for detailed sensory and flavour chemistry analysis and profiling (n=17). Descriptive sensory analysis provides a robust evaluation of the specific aroma, taste, flavour and mouthfeel nuances perceived in wine and leads to a quantitative data set that can be linked with chemical and consumer-liking data. This combination of information is a powerful tool for wine producers in the Riverland region as it provides an indication of which chemical molecules are responsible for particular wine sensory attributes, and which of these

attributes underpin Chinese consumer wine liking or disliking. This information allows grapegrowers and winemakers to adapt their production practices to generate wines with characteristics that more closely match consumer preferences. In the present study, trained panellists assessed the sensory attributes of 17 Riverland wines, which included rosé and mainstream and alternative variety red table wine styles. The sensory analysis panel agreed that 20 aroma attributes, 19 palate attributes and four mouthfeel attributes enabled differentiation of the wines. Statistical analysis of the sensory data revealed that 40 of the 43 attributes significantly differentiated the wines (by ANOVA, P<0.05). Attributes that did not discriminate between samples were acidity, and herbaceous aroma and flavour. Analyses performed on the mean intensity ratings obtained for all significant sensory attributes produced a graphical representation showing the correlations between the samples and sensory descriptors (Figure 3). Clear separation was observed between rosé and red wines, with the latter separated on the right side of Figure 3 and rosé wines located on the left. The left half of the plot shows that rosé wines were rated higher for honey, lychee, floral, tropical and confectionary attributes. The top-right quadrant shows red wines rated highly for tobacco, sweet oak, oak, leather, savoury, earthy and dried fruit (these were the oldest wines in the study, 2013, so complex characters were to be expected). The red wines located in the bottom-right quadrant were from a later vintage and correlated with dark berry, cherry, pepper and red berry attributes. Throughout the project, significant engagement with Riverland stakeholders has been sought, which has comprised presentations, workshops and consultation on wine selection and preliminary packaging development (Figure 4). Once the sensory preferences of Chinese consumers were identified in the online questionnaire, Riverland producers were invited to generate wine samples that met these consumer specifications for subsequent inclusion in consumer ▶ preference testing.

Figure 3. Plot showing the correlation between red and rosé wines with sensory descriptors. V3 2N 2

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Figure 4. Chris Byrne, from Riverland Wine, presenting a bottle design idea during a workshop. www.winetitles. com . au

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Riverland Wine executive officer Chris Byrne said, “Being involved as an active partner and, indeed, an investor in this project has many paybacks for our members”. “Perhaps most importantly it has raised awareness in the scientific community of just how diverse and credible the region’s wine products are. It has also illustrated that this region’s grapegrowers and winemakers have developed the financial and intellectual capacity to support research and development programs with the potential to create unique (non-replicable) Riverland wine products. ‘Niche’ often implies small. In this instance, the creation of a niche ‘celebration-wine’ category with bold innovative packaging and an emphasis on meeting the wine preferences of aspiring Chinese wine consumers made a lot of sense. With China now being the top export market for Australian wine, that’s a fair sized ‘niche’ to target in our first major collaboration with key industry research partners,” Byrne said. Based on their sensory profiles, a subset of nine wines (including two tailor-made wines informed by the questionnaire) were chosen for taste preference studies and evaluation by 91 Adelaide-based Chinese wine consumers (Figure 5). The majority of wines selected for the preference study matched the desired sensory profile indicated by respondents to the Chinese questionnaire, however, a small number of wines with distinctive sensory profiles that did not match the self-reported consumer preferences were included in order to test the hypothesis that Chinese consumers were most likely to choose a fruity, sweet wine. Upon completion of the Adelaide tastings, four wines were selected based on their liking scores for additional preference testing in China. In total, 104 Shanghai-based Chinese wine consumers participated in a tasting held at the Shanghai Jiao Tong University campus (Figure 6).

Figure 5. Wines to be presented for Chinese consumer preference testing in Adelaide. The team is currently administering an additional consumer preference study using 600 Chinese consumers in Shanghai, Beijing and Guangzhou to refine bottle and label designs. A number of price points are being investigated, along with commercial and luxury packaging concepts. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The authors acknowledge the contribution made by their collaborators, the consumers in Adelaide and Shanghai for participating in the focus groups, online questionnaire and tastings, and Drs Lukas Danner and Ruyi Li, along with staff and students from Shanghai Jiao Tong University, for WVJ administering the Shanghai consumer preference test.

Figure 6. Shanghai consumer tasting.

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Treatment by fining agents of red wine affected by phenolic off-odour By Maria Tiziana Lisanti1*, Angelita Gambuti1, Alessandro Genovese2, Paola Piombino1 and Luigi Moio1 »

Researchers from Italy examined the effectiveness of three fining treatments - polyvinyl polypyrrolidone (PVPP), deodorising activated charcoal and zeolite - to reduce the concentrations of 4-EP and 4-EG, the compounds largely responsible for Brettanomyces spoilage, as well as their effect on the concentrations of desirable aroma volatiles in a red wine. INTRODUCTION Among wine defects, phenolic off-odours, also commonly known as ‘Brett’ character, are frequent. This taint is described as stable, animal, horse sweat, leather, bandaid, spicy, smoky and medicinal (Chatonnet et al. 1992). The compounds principally responsible for the taint are 4-ethylphenol (4-EP) and 4-ethylguaiacol (4-EG), which are mainly produced in wine by Brettanomyces/Dekkera spp. contaminant yeasts (Chatonnet et al. 1992). Wood casks, especially used ones, are an optimal substrate for the proliferation of Brettanomyces, and even tanks, pumps and bottles can be contaminated too (Malfeito-Ferreira 2011). The most efficient method for controlling Brettanomyces is the correct use of sulfur dioxide, including in barrel sanitisation, while a high temperature, high pH, high residual sugar and a low alcohol content are positively correlated to its growth (Dias et al. 2003). With climate change resulting in musts and wines with higher pH levels, the risk of the presence of phenolic offodours is increasing. Moreover, the modern tendency to reduce the use of sulfur dioxide and the alcohol content of wine leads to the production of wine more susceptible to ethylphenol contamination. In this scenario, the control of Brettanomyces may be very difficult and phenolic off-odours may easily appear in wine. In the last decade, several methods have been evaluated for the removal of 4-EP and 4-EG from wine, including reverse osmosis and adsorption (Ugarte et al. 2005), sorption by yeast derivatives (Chassagne et al. 2005, Jiménez-Moreno et al. 2009, Palomero et al. 2011), suberin from cork (Gallardo-Chacón et al. 2015), and innovative materials such as esterified cellulose (Larcher et al. 2012) and molecular imprinted polymers (Teixeira et al. 2015). These methods showed a certain efficacy in the depletion of 4-EG and/or 4-EP in model solution and/or in wine, however their effect on the levels of desirable aroma volatiles and their sensory outcome was never assessed. Nowadays, the wine industry does not have any easy and affordable technique to rescue phenolic wines. This study aimed to examine the suitability of fining treatments, specifically polyvinyl polypyrrolidone (PVPP), deodorising activated charcoal and zeolite, to reduce the concentrations

of 4-EP and 4-EG and the intensity of the related phenolic off-odour in red wines at two levels of contamination. Taking into account that the adsorption of the studied fining agents is expected to be non-selective, their effect on the concentrations of desirable aroma volatiles was also evaluated. The reduction in the perceived intensity of the phenolic off-odours, along with the preservation of positive odorous notes, were assessed by quantitative descriptive sensory analysis. MATERIALS AND METHODS A red wine (cv. Aglianico) was treated with deodorising activated charcoal, polyvinyl polypyrrolidone (PVPP) and zeolite (Dal Cin S.p.A., Sesto S. Giovanni, Milano, Italy) (Table 1). The wine used had a natural contamination of 4-EP 539 ± 48µg/L and 4-EG 46.1 ± 3.6µg/L, which is considered medium-low, taking into account the range of concentrations reported for red wines (Chatonnet et al. 1992, Pollnitz et al. 2000). The wine was also spiked with additional quantities of 4-EG and 4-EP (up to 126 and 1969µg/L of 4-EG and 4-EP, respectively) to enable the efficacy of the treatments at higher levels of contamination to be evaluated. Three replicates of each treatment were performed on aliquots each measuring 2L of wine. Based on the manufacturers’ instruction, the charcoal, PVPP and zeolite were directly stirred into the wine. Magnetic stirring (10 minutes) and sedimentation (14 hours at 20°C) took place in glass bottles filled to the brim ▶ and closed by screw caps. Table 1. The tested fining agents Treatment activated charcoal

Dose

Observations

20g/hL

powder, deodorant, BET surface area= 550 m2/g, iodine index > 600, methylene blue index = 8g/100g not admitted in red wine a

PVPP

80g/hL

pure polyvinylpolypyrrolidone, nitrogen 11-12.8% admitted in red wine a

zeolite

20g/hL

mixed cation (Ca, Na, K, Fe, Mg) natural zeolite, SiO2/Al2O3= 9.3 not admitted as oenological practice a

Reg. EC No. 606/2009 and further modifications

» Dipartimento di Agraria – Università degli Studi di Napoli Federico II Sezione di Scienze della Vigna e del Vino, Viale Italia 83100, Avellino, Italy

1 2

Sezione di Scienze e Tecnologie degli Alimenti, Via Università 100, Portici (NA), Italy Corresponding author: mariatiziana.lisanti@unina.it

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WINE FINISHING

An aliquot of 2L each of untreated wine was kept under the same conditions and considered as a control. After settling, racking and filtration, the experimental replicates were subjected to chemical and sensory analyses. The volatile fraction was extracted according to the method optimised and validated by Lisanti and co-workers (Lisanti et al. 2010), consisting of three successive extractions with three aliquots of n-pentane, followed by dehydration with anhydrous sodium sulfate and concentration under nitrogen flow. Each replicate of the treatments was extracted in duplicate (n=6) and the control wines were extracted in triplicate (n=3). The organic extracts were analysed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry in selected ion monitoring mode (GC–MS/SIM). The quantitative data of the identified compounds were obtained by the interpolation of the relative areas vs. the internal standard area, using calibration curves built for pure reference compounds in model wine solution containing known amounts of the analytes (Lisanti et al. 2010). The odour profiles were obtained by quantitative descriptive sensory analysis. All the sensory analyses were conducted in individual sensory booths. The three replicates of each treatment were mixed and stored at 4°C before the analyses. The panel comprised eight selected and trained judges (three males and five females, 26-43 years of age). The samples (30mL) were presented at room temperature (20°C) in black tulip-shaped glasses, covered with glass Petri dishes and coded with random three-digit codes. Each sample was analysed in duplicate. The order of presentation was randomised among the judges in order to minimise any possible order and carryover effects. The evaluated odour attributes were generated by consensus in a previous dedicated session. The intensity of the descriptors was rated using a nine-point scale (0=not detected, 1=weak, 2=medium, 3=strong, 4=very strong, half values being allowed). RESULTS AND DISCUSSION Effect of the fining agents on 4-EP and 4-EG concentrations In the naturally-contaminated wine only activated charcoal and PVPP were able to decrease significantly the levels of 4-EG and/or 4-EP (Table 2). The inefficacy of zeolite may have been due to an ineffective matching between the structure of the crystal and ethylphenol molecules. Also, adsorption interference by other wine components could have occurred. The treatment with activated charcoal resulted in a significant decrease of both 4-EP and 4-EG concentrations (18% and 11% decrease, respectively). Activated charcoals have an affinity for phenolic compounds, depending on their porous structure and chemical nature. Currently, the use of activated charcoal for the treatment of red wines is not allowed in Europe (Reg. EC No. 606/2009 and further modifications), in order to avoid fraudulent decolouration due to the adsorption of coloured phenolic compounds. However, in our study, the treatment with the deodorising activated charcoal caused only a moderate decrease in the levels of phenolic compounds and colour parameters (data not shown) compared with PVPP, the use of which is allowed for the treatment of red wines (Reg. EC No. 606/2009 and further modifications). In the naturally contaminated wine PVPP significantly decreased the 4-EP level by 11% (Table 2). In winemaking, PVPP is used to eliminate browning phenolics and to correct the colour of white wines, while in young red

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Table 2. Effect of charcoal, PVPP and zeolite on the concentration of 4-ethylguaiacol and 4-ethylphenol in the experimental wines. 4-ethylguaiacol (µg/L)a

4-ethylphenol (µg/L)a

naturally contaminated wine

46.1

± 3.6

539

± 48

charcoal

41.0*

± 2.1

441*

± 42

PVPP

43.3

± 2.4

482*

± 26

zeolite

43.4

± 1.6

473

± 55

spiked wine

125.7

± 8.4

1969

± 244

charcoal

115.7

± 6.7

1687

± 189

PVPP

118.7

± 5.6

1724

± 240

zeolite

116.5

± 7.7

1794

± 256

For the control wines, the reported values are the means of three analytical replicates (n=3) ± standard deviation. For the treated wines, the reported values are the means of three treatment replicates, each extracted twice (n=6), ± standard deviation. a

The asterisks indicate the means that significantly differred from the corresponding control wine (Wilcoxon signed-rank test p<0.05)

wines it can be used to decrease astringency. Although no specific study on the adsorption of 4-EG and 4-EP by PVPP has been published, its use in decreasing an off-flavour caused by m-cresol (3-methyl phenol) in wines stored in epoxy resin tanks is reported (Dubois 1994). No treatment was effective in significantly reducing the concentration of 4-EP and 4-EG in the spiked wine. However, in the absence of statistical significance, the quantity of 4-EP and 4-EG removed from the spiked wine was three to four folds higher than the naturally contaminated wine. This suggests that the adsorption was volatile phenol level-dependent. However, wine matrix components seem to have determined the saturation of binding sites. Therefore, the adsorbed quantity of volatile phenols was not significant compared with the initial concentration. Effect of activated charcoal and PVPP additions on the concentrations of aroma volatiles Both activated charcoal and PVPP are non-specific adsorbent, therefore in spite of the desirable decrease in the concentration of the taint compounds, the levels of aroma volatiles may also be lowered. In order to evaluate this potential drawback, the effect of the treatments on the concentration of 14 desirable wine aroma volatiles was determined (Table 3, see page 36). The treatment with activated charcoal decreased the levels of a larger number of compounds compared with PVPP, with higher percentages of decrease. The chemical class of esters, responsible for fruity odours in wine, was the most affected by both treatments. Considering the percentage decreases, it seems that the hydrophobicity of the compounds and also the initial concentration of ester played a role in the adsorption. The concentration of alcohols was minimally affected by both the treatments, probably due to their low hydrophobicity. The contribution of the determined alcohol to wine aroma is quite different: C6 alcohols give herbaceous notes, 2-phenylethanol has a distinctive rose odour and 3-methyl-1-butanol gives the so-called amylic note. The levels of terpenes and β-damascenone were not significantly decreased, neither by charcoal or by PVPP, despite their high hydrophobicity. The preservation of these compounds is a very positive

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Table 3. Effect of charcoal and PVPP on the aroma volatile compounds. Compound

Odoura

Naturally contaminated wine Charcoal % PVPP % concentration (µg/L)b concentration (µg/L)c decd concentration (µg/L)c decd

Esters Isoamyl acetate

Banana

652

409 ± 28

Ethyl hexanoate

Green apple

158

Ethyl octanoate

Pineapple

249

Ethyl decanoate

Floral, citrus fruit

35.7

426 ± 19

37.9 ± 8.2

74.8* ± 8.3

57.7 ± 6.6

138.2* ± 9.1

5.8

5.1* ± 1.0

18.3* ± 2.1

240847

4904

2146

207650 ± 26679

247127 ± 19580

1914 ± 229

2065 ± 93

Alcohols 3-Methyl-1-butanol Herbaceous 1-Hexanol

Grass

(Z)-3-Hexen-1-ol

Grass

2-Phenylethanol

Rose

160

80960

1772

147 ± 14

152.9 ± 7.3

67440* ± 8540

83022* ± 9188

Terpenes Linalool

Orange flowers, floral

16.6

1.7

15.0 ± 1.1

15.16 ± 0.67

α-Terpineol

Floral

13.1

1.4

12.35 ± 0.88

12.55 ± 0.74

Geraniol

Orange flowers, floral

9.84

0.81

9.24 ± 0.50

9.67 ± 0.24

Tea, floral, dried fruits

1.0

0.1

0.993 ± 0.062

1.010 ± 0.019

13.21

0.77

5.1* ± 1.2

7.3* ± 1.3

25.2

1.1

22.2 ± 1.4

24.47 ± 0.39

Norisoprenoids β-Damascenone Phenols 4-Vinylguaiacol

Smoky

4-Vinylphenol

Phenolic, medicinal

Experimental descriptors (Genovese et al., 2007) Mean of three extraction replicates ± standard deviation Mean of three treatment replicates, each extracted twice (n=6), ± standard deviation. The asterisks indicate a statistically significant difference between the two treatments (Wilcoxon signed-rank test p<0.05). d Significant perceptual decreases with respect to the control (Wilcoxon signed rank test p< 0.05) (ns= not significant). a

b c

feature of the treatments as, in spite of their low concentrations, both terpenes and β-damascenone are often odour-active compounds in wine, due to their extremely low olfactory thresholds. In particular, terpenes are responsible for floral odours, while β-damascenone was suggested to have more an indirect than a direct impact on red wine aroma by enhancing fruity notes (Pineau et al. 2007). SENSORY EVALUATION

Figure 1. Odour profiles of the naturally contaminated wine (NC wine) before and after the treatments with activated charcoal and PVPP. Asterisk indicates a statistically significant difference (Wilcoxon signed-rank test, p<0.05) between the control and treated wine.

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The quantitative depletion of 4-EP and 4-EG may not result in a decrease in the perceived intensity of phenolic off-odour. Indeed, depending on the initial concentration of 4-EP and 4-EG, a high percentage depletion could result in residual concentrations high enough to elicit the phenolic off-odour. Moreover, positive masking odorous notes may be reduced or lost following the treatment due to the adsorption of aroma volatiles; therefore the resulting intensity of phenolic offodour may even increase. For these reasons, forecasting the sensory efficacy of a treatment from the analytical data is very hard. Therefore, we considered the sensory outcome of the treatments able to decrease 4-EP and 4-EG concentrations for the definitive evaluation of their efficacy. Although the concentration of 4-EP was only slightly higher than the reported olfactory perception thresholds (440µg/L, Chatonnet et al. 1992), the ‘phenolic’ off-odour was dominant in the odour profile of the naturally contaminated wine (Figure 1). This confirms that the intensity of an odour is not only determined

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by the concentration of the responsible compounds, but the complex equilibrium between the total volatile fraction and the non-volatile matrix should also be considered (Polášková et al. 2008). The second most intense odour was ‘grass’, while ‘red fruits’, ‘flowers’ and ‘spicy’ odours were perceived at a lower intensity. After both treatments, the decrease in 4-EP and 4-EG concentrations resulted in a decrease in the intensity of ‘phenolic’ off-odour. This reduction was higher after the treatment with charcoal than PVPP, according to the bigger decrease in ethylphenol concentrations. Also, the ‘grass’ odour was perceived at a slightly less intensity after the treatments. As C6 alcohols, responsible for grassy odour, were not affected by both treatments, a positive perceptible interaction between ‘phenolic’ and ‘grass’ odours could be hypothesised, due to the reduction in the intensity of ‘phenolic’ off-odour decreasing the perceived intensity of ‘grass’ odour. Interestingly, after the two treatments, an increase in the intensity of the ‘red fruits’ odour occurred. This result may seem to be at variance with the removal of esters, whose additive effect determines the berry fruit odours in red wine (Pineau et al. 2009). However, 4-EP and 4-EG was found to suppress the fruity note in wines, even at subliminal concentrations (Tempere et al. 2016). Therefore, although the treatments decreased ester concentrations, the reduction of 4-EP and 4-EG levels and the consequent decrease in intensity of ‘phenolic’ odour resulted in the enhancement of the remaining ester-derived odour. A similar result was observed in smoky wines treated with activated charcoal (Fudge et al. 2012). CONCLUSION The fining with deodorising activated charcoal and PVPP was found to be able to significantly decrease the ethylphenol concentrations in a medium-low contaminated red wine exhibiting a dominant phenolic off-odour. The sensory outcome of both treatments was very positive, as a reduction in the intensity of phenolic off-odour and an increase in the intensity of ‘red fruits’ note occurred, especially after the charcoal treatment, in spite of the decrease in ester levels. This enhancement of ‘red fruits’ odour was likely due to the decrease in the masking effect of phenolic offodour. However, our results suggest that the dose-effect relationship of the fining agents should be evaluated case by case, also in relation to the level of contamination. According to European legislation, red wines are currently not allowed to be treated with charcoal (Reg. EC No. 606/2009 and further modifications). In light of our results, the authorisation of deodorising charcoal for the treatment of phenolic red wines should be considered, as it could be an affordable and simple method to rescue tainted wines, particularly in small wineries. Future studies could aim to develop more specific deodorising charcoals, effective on highly contaminated wines as well as on different wine typologies.

Department of Agriculture of the University of Naples Federico II for their participation in the sensory trials. REFERENCES Chassagne, D.; Guilloux-Benatier, M.; Alexandre, H. and Voilley, A. (2005) Sorption of wine volatile phenols by yeast lees. Food Chemistry 91:39-44. Chatonnet, P.; Dubourdieu, D., Boidron, J.N.L. and Pons, M. (1992) The origin of ethylphenols in wines. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture 60:165-178. Dias, L.; Pereira-da-Silva, S; Tavares, M.; Malfeito-Ferreira, M. and Loureiro, V. (2003) Factors affecting the production of 4-ethylphenol by the yeast Dekkera bruxellensis in enological conditions. Food Microbiology 20:377384. Dubois, P. (1994) Les arômes des vins et leurs défauts. Revue Française d’Oenologie 3:27-4. Fudge, A.L.; Schiettecatte, M.; Ristic, R.; Hayasaka, Y. and Wilkinson, K.L. (2012) Amelioration of smoke taint in wine by treatment with commercial fining agents. Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research 18:302-307. Gallardo-Chacón, J. J. and Karbowiak, T. (2015) Sorption of 4-ethylphenol and 4-ethylguaiacol by suberin from cork. Food Chemistry 181:222-226. Genovese, A.; Lisanti, M. T.; Gambuti, A.; Piombino, P. and Moio L. (2007) Relationship between sensory perception and aroma compounds of monovarietal red wines. Acta Horticulturae (ISHS) 754:549-556. Jiménez-Moreno, N. and Ancín-Azpilicueta, C. (2009) Sorption of volatile phenols by yeast cell walls. International Journal of Wine Research 1:11-18. Larcher, R.; Puecher, C.; Rohregger, S.; Malacarne, M. and Nicolini, G. (2012) 4-Ethylphenol and 4-ethylguaiacol depletion in wine using esterified cellulose. Food Chemistry 132:2126-2130. Lisanti, M.T.; Genovese, A.; Piombino, P.; Gambuti. A. and Moio, L. (2010) Application of an analytical method for the simultaneous determination of the off-flavour volatile geosmin, 4-ethylphenol and 4-ethylguaiacol and of target wine aroma volatiles. Italian Journal of Food Science 22: 15-27. Malfeito-Ferreira, M. (2011) Yeasts and wine off-flavours: a technological perspective. Annals of Microbiology 6:95-102. Palomero, F.; Ntanos, K.; Morata, A.; Benito, S. and Suárez-Lepe, J. A. (2011) Reduction of wine 4-ethylphenol concentration using lyophilised yeast as a bioadsorbent: influence on anthocyanin content and chromatic variables. European Food Research and Technology 232:971-977. Pineau, B.; Barbe, J. C.; Van Leeuwen, C. and Dubourdieu, D. (2007) Which impact for β-damascenone on red wines aroma? Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 55:4103-4108. Pineau, B.; Barbe, J. C.; Van Leeuwen, C. and Dubourdieu, D. (2009) Examples of perceptive interactions involved in specific ‘red-‘ and ‘black-berry’ aromas in red wines. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 57:3702-3708. Polášková, P.; Herszage, J. and Ebeler, S. E. (2008) Wine flavor: chemistry in a glass. Chemical Society Reviews 37:2478-2489. Pollnitz, A. P.; Pardon, K. H. and Sefton, M. A. (2000) Quantitative analysis of 4-ethylphenol and 4-ethylguaiacol in red wine. Journal of Chromatography A 874:101-109. Teixeira, R.; Dopico-Garcí, S., Andrade, P.; Valentão, P.; López-Vilariño, J. M.; González-Rodríguez, V.; Cela-Pérez, C. and Silva, L. R. (2015) Volatile phenols depletion in red wine using molecular imprinted polymers. Journal of Food Science and Technology 52:7735-7746. Tempere, S.; Schaaper, M. H.; Cuzange, E.; de Lescar, R.; de Revel, G. and Sicard, G. (2016) The olfactory masking effect of ethylphenols: Characterisation and elucidation of its origin. Food Quality and Preference 50: 135-144. Ugarte, P.; Agosin, E.; Bordeu, E. and Villalobos, J. I. (2005) Reduction of 4-ethylphenol and 4-ethylguaiacol concentration in red wines using reverse osmosis and adsorption. American Journal of Enology and Viticulture 56:30-36.

This article is based on the paper by Lisanti, M.T.; Gambuti, A.; Genovese, A.; Piombino, P. and Moio L. (2017) Treatment by fining agents of red wine affected by phenolic off-odour. European Food Research and Technology 243:501-510.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The authors thank Dal Cin Gildo S.p.A. for providing the fining agents used in the study, Cantina del Taburno winery for providing the wines, and the students and staff of the

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TEMPRANILLO

Explorer’s rough guide to Tempranillo By Cathy Howard

To complement this issue’s Tempranillo tasting and varietal report (see pages 67-75) we asked Cathy to speak with some leading Australian Tempranillo producers to find out how their management and handling of the variety has evolved in recent years.

ven though Tempranillo may feel like a new arrival in Australia, it has been around for a long time. Historical and DNA evidence have revealed that the variety is a native of Spain and probably originated in two regions to the north-west of Aragon, Logrono, in La Rioja, and Peralta, in Navarra. From this base in Spain, the winegrape then spread out fairly quickly to Portugal, Italy, France and to South America, with the Portuguese conquistadores in the 17th century. Its home is still very much in Spain. In the book Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties, including their Origins and Flavours, Jancis Robinson and her co-authors Julia Harding and José Vouillamoz refer to Spain as ‘the kingdom of Tempranillo’ and rightly so. According to statistics from the Wine Economics Research Centre at The University of Adelaide (Table 1), in 2010 there were more than 232,500 hectares of Tempranillo planted worldwide, and just over 207,700 hectares (89 percent) of that total was in Spain. There has also been a meteoric rise in the area planted to Tempranillo from 2000 to 2010, mainly in Spain but also around the globe. The area planted to Tempranillo in Spain has increased from 79,300 hectares to 207,700 (close to a three-fold increase) and around the globe the area planted to the variety increased by a similar trend. In Spain it is planted across the country in a range of climates from hot through to cool, and it is known under a host of regional names. It is grown in the cooler, higher-altitude sub-regions of Rioja Alta and Alavesa. In Ribera del Duero, the high plateau south-west of Rioja, Tempranillo is called Tinto Fino or Tinto del País. Robinson states on her website (www. jancisrobinson.com) that here, "Bordeaux grape varieties and the local Albillo may be blended with it but this rarely happens nowadays, except in the region’s most famous wine Vega Sicilia which has proved that Tempranillo grown in this extreme climate with its hot days and cool nights

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Tempranillo growing at ‘Llangibby’ vineyard at Mt Barker, in South Australia’s Adelaide Hills. Photo courtesy Peter Leske can withstand up to 10 years in barrel and still age for decades in bottle. Dane Peter Sisseck has had phenomenal success with his briary cocktail Dominio de Pingus." In the Toro wine region to the north, Tempranillo is known as Tinta de Toro. On her website, Robinson describes these Toro regional wines as being made "quite simply and is a sort of exuberant, turbocharged fruity essence of Tempranillo". In Valdepeñas and Manchuela, sub-regions of Castella La Mancha to the south of Madrid in central Spain, Tempranillo is known as Cencibel and Jancivera, respectively, and it is often lightened by blending with the local white Airén. Tempranillo is grown all over the Levante on the east coast of the country, taking in Valencia and Murcia. In Catalonia it is known as Ull de Llebre, and in Penedès, close to Barcelona, as in Navarra to the north-east of Rioja, its traditional blending partner is Garnacha (Grenache).

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In Portugal, it is known as Tinta Roriz where it is an important component in port, as well as in the table wines of the Douro Valley, and is a blending component in the red wines of Dão and Alentejo in the south, where it is known as Aragonês. Other Portuguese synonyms are Aragonez, Tinta Aragoneza, Arinto Tinto and Tinta de Santiago. In an article published in the Financial Times online on 11 October 2014, Robinson said, "In the 1990s Spain discovered varietal labelling, calling wines after the grape variety that was principally responsible for them. The result has been feverish planting of Tempranillo in southern Spain, particularly on the plains of Castilla-La Mancha… Vast tracts of Airén have been replaced by Tempranillo in Castilla-La Mancha, which by 2010 was home to more than 70,000ha (173,000 acres) of Tempranillo, twice as much as grew in either Rioja or Ribera del Duero. This

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Table 1. Area planted to Tempranillo in hectares by country in 2000 and in 2010. Year

Spain

Portugal

Argentina

France

Australia

USA

Total area planted globally

2000

79,310

7356

4335

1549

201

92,985

2010

207,677

16,706

6120

766

476

414

232,561

Source: www.adelaide.edu.au/wine-econ/databases/winegrapes)

Table 2. National shares by country (%) of global winegrape area planted to Tempranillo. Year

Spain

Portugal

Argentina

France

Australia

USA

Other countries

2000

85.29

7.91

4.66

1.67

0.04

0.22

0.21

2010

89.30

7.18

2.63

0.33

0.20

0.18

Source: www.adelaide.edu.au/wine-econ/databases/winegrapes

means that not only has Tempranillo become Spain’s most planted grape, but La Mancha now grows more than a third of all Spanish Tempranillo." (La Mancha, is famous for manchego cheese and Don Quixote with extremely hot summers and cold winters). Elsewhere in the world, the major plantings are in Argentina, France and California (Table 1). Tempranillo wine is being made in many Australian wine regions from the Granite Belt in Queensland, down through New South

Wales, to Canberra, to Bendigo and the King Valley in Victoria, to McLaren Vale, the Adelaide Hills and the Barossa in South Australia, and to the Western Australian regions of the Swan Valley, Geographe and Margaret River. A valuable source of information about all things Tempranillo can be found on the TempraNeo website (www.tempraneo. com.au), and from the six wineries that make up the group. TempraNeo formed in 2010 and each maker comes from a different region: Mayford, in the Alpine

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Valleys; La Linea, in the Adelaide Hills; Mount Majura, in Canberra; Tar and Roses, in Heathcote; Yalumba’s Running With Bulls, in the Barossa; and Gemtree, in McLaren Vale. According to the TempraNeo website, "Tempranillo makes a range of styles, depending on viticultural factors such as climate, soil and clone, as well as ripeness at harvest and the style intention of the winemaker. More fertile soils produce relatively large berries, suited to fragrant and fresh rosé or lighter-bodied red wines. Typical descriptors include red fruits such as red currant, pomegranate and raspberries. In less fertile situations, berry size is restricted and the wine is medium-bodied, with a more fleshy, generous mouthfeel and more assertive tannin. The aroma and flavour descriptors vary with climate and ripeness at harvest. "Cooler climates produce wines in more of the red fruit spectrum with perfume, red and black fruits, spice and herbs and other descriptors such as savoury and red liquorice. The flavours are finer, more subtle, and because these wines aren’t carrying a heavy weight they often have the fleshy texture combining

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with fine, firm, linear tannin structure to make complete and composed wines. Warmer climates tend to produce more black fruit characters such as black cherry, cola and chocolate. These wines often have more richness and range from juicy, ‘slurpy’, drink-now styles, to powerful and concentrated wines suited to ageing." In the vineyard, Tempranillo is late to burst and is early ripening. It is regarded in most regions as low cropping, with large, thick-skinned berries and large bunches. It produces high pH and low TA fruit with high tannin levels. It is suited to low vigour, low capacity sites and can be vigorous on fertile soils. It doesn’t need as much water compared with other varieties. As with many other winegrapes, there are clonal differences in Tempranillo. Some clones deliver fruit high in perfume, others show pronounced savouriness. Ten years of trials at Australian nurseries have revealed significant taste and aroma differences between the dozen clones available here. A clue for Australian winemakers to know what clone or clones might best suit their site is to know where their clonal material hails from, because it is becoming clear that place of origin can dictate a clone's performance in another country. The majority of Tempranillo vineyards in Australia are planted to clone D8V12. Apart from clone D8V12, there are a dozen or so clones currently available in Australia, including D8V13, Tinta Roriz, Requena, Entav INRA 770, Entav INRA 776, Tinta del Pais CL-32, Tinta del Pais CL-261, Tinta del Pais CL-98, Tinta de Toro CL-306m, and Tinta de Toro CL-326. No conversation about Tempranillo would be complete without talking about the Spanish terms of Joven, Crianza and Reserva. Some Tempranillo wines are intended to be consumed while they are young, in which case they are referred to as being the Joven style. These wines are rarely aged in oak, are released young and not meant for ageing. The Spanish term Crianza refers to aged wines. Reds require a minimum of one year in barrel and a few months in the bottle. For white wines, the minimum cask ageing period is six months. In very good years Spanish wineries make a Reserva intended for extended ageing. Reds are aged for a minimum of three years, with at least one year in barrel. For white wines, the minimum

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Margaret River’s Aravina Estate has a small one-hectare block of Tempranillo comprising five different clones. From left to right, the clones are: Tinta de Toro CL326, with smaller berries and slightly elongated bunch structure is regarded for its relatively conservative vigour and berry/bunch size; Tinta del Pais CL-32, known for its higher vigour and moderate yields; Tinta del Pais CL-98, noted for its controlled vigour and yield but with higher berry weight than the Tinta de Toro CL-326; Tinta del Toro CL 261, high vigour and medium yield; and Tinta de Toro CL-306, lower yield higher vigour. ageing period is two years, with at least six months in casks. Gran Reserva is reserved for wines from exceptional vintages. Most producers will do 20-30 months in barrel. Reds have spent at least two years in barrel and three years in the bottle. For white wines, the minimum ageing period is four years, with at least one year in barrel. RYAN AGISS, CHIEF WINEMAKER, ARAVINA ESTATE, MARGARET RIVER, WESTERN AUSTRALIA Aravina Estate has a small one hectare block of Tempranillo comprising five different clones planted in 2014. The clones are Pingus Clone 261 (Tinta del Pais CL-261), Pingus 306 (Tinta de Toro CL-306), Pingus Clone 98 (Tinta del Pais CL-98), Pingus Clone 32 (Tinta del Pais CL-32) and Pingus Clone 326 (Tinta de Toro CL-326). Agiss said, “The clonal selection supplied to us are from ARM nurseries via Castilla y Leon Institute and are referred to as the Tinta del Pais CL-98 and CL-32 clones, which are the source of Domino de Pingus wines from the Ribera del Duero region and the Tinta del Toro CL-261, CL-326 and CL-306 clones. Variations between yield, berry size, vigour and bunch structure are clearly evident across the five clones. “Aravina will release a single varietal mixed clone Tempranillo this year as an

early release, fresh and vibrant wine as well as a blended release with Grenache and Shiraz as a more serious table red, and a one-off cellar door only release. Blending Tempranillo provides structure and freshness to the more broader styles of varietals such as Grenache or Touriga. “In my opinion, quality in Tempranillo comes back to the vineyard and how you manage the vigour and we have been working closely with our consultant viticulturist Ryan Gibbs to control vigour in the vineyard, which certainly helps resulting wine quality. This ensures the canopy has the ability to ripen the crop and push flavours from greener root vegetal spectrums to primary red fruit such as cherry and plum. Tannin management is dependent on desired wine style and needs to be managed accordingly. Manage oak smartly, as Tempranillo seems to suck up the quercus (oak) and furfural (caramel) characters of new oak and easily dominates both aroma and palate,” Agiss said. He explained that he looks to several local WA and interstate Tempranillo wines as his benchmarks. “I’m really enjoying West Cape Howe’s take on the variety, producing bright and fresh wines but with substance and structure. Houghton is blending it with some other alternative varieties to produce a red blend of incredible aromatic power and palate sophistication. Kerri

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TEMPRANILLO

Thompson’s Rosa is a brilliant example of its suitability as a rosé component, as is Julian Langworthy’s Deep Woods rosè. Steve Pannell is another benchmark winemaker for me, too. As far as international wines go, for value I always enjoy the wines from Rioja (when I can attain them and afford them) but I have been lucky enough to taste Contador a couple of times and it blew my mind. Of course, the Bodegas Roda wines of Rioja with the Sela, Reserva and Roda 1 are always great wines and show the suitability of Tempranillo as a blender in the Sela and Reserva, and the power of the variety as a single variety in the Roda 1,” Agiss said. The styles that Aravina is currently making include a rosè to a more robust and savoury style. It’s only early days with this first Tempranillo planting at Aravina, but Agiss is optimistic the winery has a real asset and point of difference to offer its customers. This vintage, Agiss will vinify each clone separately and start to determine the styles of wines these clones will be best suited to. Agiss stated that the appeal of Tempranillo relates to it being made in styles that are more suited to Australia’s climate and culture; bright, juicy, youthful, elegant and approachable wines that are a joy to drink. “I really think that with a 300 percent increase in plantings since 2007 in Australia, we are really only now seeing the best regions and best resultant styles of wines vinified from these planted areas. There does seem to be some correlation between slightly higher altitudes such as the Alpine regions, King Valley, Orange, and the Granite Belt producing elegant, drink-now styles. The warmer areas of McLaren Vale and Rutherglen seem to be producing more robust, age-worthy traditional styles, and the cooler maritime areas such as Margaret River are producing good rosé styles as well as the medium-bodied styles”. Agiss concluded that Tempranillo provides a real point of difference for Aravina, and its team is excited about the variety's potential. MIKE BROWN, CHIEF WINEMAKER/ MANAGING DIRECTOR, GEMTREE WINES, MCLAREN VALE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA Tempranillo was one of the first emerging varieties to be planted in Australia in the late 1990s, and Gemtree

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Husband and wife Mike Brown and Melissa Buttery, of Gemtree, in South Australia’s McLaren Vale wine region. planted its vines in 1999. As Mike Brown explained, the Tempranillo has been in the ground for 18 years which is long enough for Gemtree to see what the variety is capable of. Gemtree experimented with making a Tempranillo wine in its first vintage in 2002, where Brown blended a small amount with some Cabernet he was making at the time. “With the explosion of other alternatives on the market, trends with Tempranillo have been to keep fine tuning and evolving as the vines have begun to find their balance. Controlling vigour in the early years was very challenging and even now, managing crop load and vine vigour is of paramount importance. The original plantings are in a heavy clay soil profile which was definitely a smart move as the vines have been self regulated. Wine styles have been as varied as the plantings are in many areas and many sites. Mayford Wines, in Alpine Valley (Victoria), makes very different Tempranillo styles compared with those at Gemtree. In the beginning, Max Allen would come across to SA every year and we would review the newest vintage wines with him, and we have all have been very careful with oak maturation, so as to allow the variety’s fruit characters to prevail." Wtih regard to the most promising region in Australia for Tempranillo, in Brown’s opinion, “Tempranillo is versatile. The Alpine Valley, Canberra, Heathcote, Barossa, Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale, are all places where it grows well, but the high country of Victoria for me is a personal favourite. In regards to clonal selection,

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this is not as important to me. Gemtree has planted two more sites of Tempranillo since our first 1999 plantings and we now make two more wines from those sites. Soil and climate is what we believe makes the wine styles." When asked about blending, Brown replied, “Tempranillo can be a great blender or as a straight 100 percent varietal wine. Cabernet, Mataro, Shiraz, and Grenache all make good blending partners with the aim being to produce a soft, juicy style with good tannin and low acidity. We have chosen to keep the variety on its own mostly and now make three, 100 percent Tempranillo wine styles based on soil and site differences; rosè from sandy light soils, Joven from sandy loam soils and Crianza style from the original plantings in heavy clay soil. To blend or not is completely up to the winemaker! We currently make the Luna De Fresa, which is a rosè, the Luna Temprana - Joven, and Luna Roja – Crianza, and perhaps a Reserva in the future when the vines are ready." In Brown’s opinion, the most important factor in producing outstanding quality Tempranillo wines is the site. The attributes of the wine come from where it is grown, and the personality will evolve from there. Brown’s benchmark Tempranillo wines include Telmo Rodreguz, which he rates as “very good”, Atardi Rioja, Finca Allende Rioja, Contador Rioja, and anything from Vega Sicilia. Brown concludes, “We love Tempranillo for its vibrance, soft generous palate and structured fruit tannins.”

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Gemtree currently makes three 100 percent Tempranillo wines: Luna De Fresa, a rosè, Luna Temprana, a Joven style, and Luna Roja, a Crianza style. PETER LESKE, PARTNER, LA LINEA, ADELAIDE HILLS, SOUTH AUSTRALIA Peter Leske refers to Tempranillo as an “unexplored variety”, which he says in its early days in Australia, had its issues when many winemakers were trying to make it in a Shiraz style with up to 20 percent new oak. In the Adelaide Hills it is slightly more perfumed and fragrant in style. Tempranillo rosé styles have grown markedly in the past few years, and the majority of styles currently made in Australia are in the Joven style. Leske said part of reason why Tempranillo has been so successful in Australia is due to the fact that the D8V13 is a good clone, "which sadly can’t be said for the earlier plantings of Merlot in Australia". One negative with D8V13, he

said, was that it is a bi-annual cropper, so every second year suffers from poor set, so many growers were keen to look at alternative clones. La Linea sources Tempranillo from seven different vineyards. Its pH and TA are a problem, but in Leske’s experience “hitting it hard with acid on ferment” works well and avoids the issues later with soapy textured tannins. The variety has exceptionally good late palate tannins. La Linea doesn’t do anything particularly special with its Tempranillos. It doesn't use a lot of whole bunch, as Leske wants to avoid the herbal, bracken mint characters often associated with this method. Ferments go through to dryness on skins with a short extended maceration post-fermentation of up to 15 or 16 days. The wines may or may not be racked post-malolactic fermentation, and they are matured in older French oak barrels (La Linea’s newest barrels are four years old) for about 10 months, then bottled in January and released in September of the same of the year. Leske said Tempranillo was a vigorous grower generally in South Aaustralia, and its leaves were huge. “You could make dolmades the size of pizzas with them!” Its shoots are brittle, and it has long internodes. Leske’s advice is to avoid alluvial soils, and to choose gravelly, leaner soils types for planting Tempranillo. Another issue in the vineyard is that Tempranillo is “a bit of a sook, actually”. Its basal leaves yellow quickly if it becomes water stressed, so Leske has

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found giving the vines small drinks and often to stop this defoliation works well. Leske’s benchmark Australian Tempranillo makers are Mayford Wines for its longevity, and Running with Bulls for varietal expression. Dominic Morris, at Pondalowie, is another Tempranillo maker of note, he said Leske is fundamentally happy with the styles and direction the La Linea Tempranillos are heading in, saying they all have a strong varietal and regional signature. Leske concluded, “It’s like a Pinot on steroids, with more colour and flavour than Pinot, but retaining the perfume and flavour, flesh and spice. Tempranillo also has distinctive late palate tannins which are never hard, green or bitter.” CONCLUSIONS Tempranillo has certainly made a big splash in Australia. The ripples being sent out from the first plantings have produced wines that show great promise for the future in a range of styles from rosé to light-bodied early-drinking reds, through to the more serious styles which are destined for ageing.

Cathy Howard is a winemaker and, together with her husband Neil, proprietor of Whicher Ridge Wines, near Busselton, Western Australia. She has been making wine for more than 20 years and also consults part-time to some wineries in the Geographe region. WVJ

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Exploring potential for grape objective measures to predict wine grade and style By Keren Bindon, Paul Smith, Alex Schulkin, Bob Dambergs, Stella Kassara, Sheridan Barter, Mark Solomon, Wies Cynkar, Dimitra Capone, Jacqui McRae, Leigh Francis, Ella Robinson and Dan Johnson Managing director The Australian Wine Research Institute, PO Box 197, Glen Osmond, South Australia 5064 Dan Johnson

Grape composition is a primary determinant of the wine style achieved following winemaking yet, in Australia, grape assessment is largely subjective. A recent study at the AWRI investigated the use of objective chemical and spectral measures to predict existing subjective grape grading allocations. Both chemical and spectral analytical approaches were shown to be useful for grape grade prediction. This work was then extended to assess the possibility of predicting wine grade and/or style from grape analysis, with results showing that grape compositional measures have potential to be used to support decisions about streaming fruit to wine styles or grades. A new project, focussing on Shiraz, has recently been launched to investigate applying this knowledge through collaborations with a large wine producer in South Australia. PREDICTING GRAPE GRADE USING CHEMICAL ANALYSIS OR SPECTRAL DATA In Australia, the grade of grapes is currently assessed in a number of ways including vineyard assessments of vine condition, grape taste or disease presence; assessment of eventual wine quality; and/or through simple chemical measures such as colour, Brix, pH or TA. This project aimed to find out if existing subjective grading allocations could be predicted using objective chemical or spectral measures. A further aim was to assess the practical application of grape compositional grading measurements and to support wine producers who intend to apply these measures in their systems. Increased adoption of objective grading measures has potential to improve the transparency of relationships between growers and grape purchasers, to reduce labour costs and to increase value by ensuring fruit is used in the most appropriate production stream. Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Chardonnay grapes from a range of quality grades were sourced from multiple regions across Australia. A wide range of chemical analyses were performed to determine the concentration of compounds known to affect wine style and key sensory properties. Juice and grape homogenate samples were also analysed spectrally in the UV-vis, NIR and MIR regions. The grading data for the grapes were supplied by the grower or the winery that made wine from those grapes. IDENTIFYING THE MOST IMPORTANT COMPOUNDS FOR PREDICTING GRAPE GRADE Statistical models were developed to predict the grade of the fruit samples. A range of statistical techniques were trialled and overall the models were very successful, able to classify samples correctly to a high degree (85-100 percent). Further analysis was used to determine which aspects of grape composition were most important in differentiating between grades. For Cabernet Sauvignon, two seasons of data were available for analysis, with some seasonal differences observed. For Shiraz and Chardonnay, the grape grade prediction was performed only for one season, 2014. For Cabernet Sauvignon, the key measures that were higher in higher grade fruit were phenolics (in particular colour and tannin), selected amino acids, Brix, chloride and glycosyl-glucose

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AT A GLANCE • Chemical and spectral measures of compounds in grapes have been used to successfully predict grape allocation grades for Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Chardonnay. • This work has been extended, to predict wine grade and/or style from grape measurements. • Adoption of objective measures when assessing grapes could have benefits for both grapegrowers and winemakers. • New work is under way to apply objective measures in assessing differences between two premium quality grades of Shiraz fruit. (an indicator of overall flavour). Those measures that were lower in higher grade fruit included the ‘green’/’grassy’ C6 flavour compounds, and glutamic acid (an amino acid). The role of other nitrogen measures, titratable acidity (TA) and ß-damascenone was less clear, with different effects across two vintages studied. For Shiraz, many of the key measures that were increased in higher grades were similar to those that were important for Cabernet Sauvignon, namely phenolics measures (in particular tannin), some amino acids, Brix and chloride. Others that were different from Cabernet, and were higher in better grades, included two of the C6 compounds and yeast assimilable nitrogen (YAN). Measures with lower values in higher grade fruit were aspartic acid, Z-3-hexenol and berry weight, with berry weight one of the measures that had the greatest influence on the predictive models for this variety. For Chardonnay, key variables with higher values in higher grades included total acidity, malic acid, glycosyl glucose,

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varietal thiol precursors, chloride, ammonia nitrogen and two C6 compounds. The measures of UV-Vis absorbance at 370nm (flavonols, a sun exposure marker) and proline concentration were higher in lower grades, and higher pH and E-2-hexenal were also associated with lower grades. SUCCESS WITH SPECTRAL MEASURES Grape spectral data (a combination of UV-Vis spectra of grape extracts, MIR spectra of juice and grape homogenates and NIR spectra of homogenates) were statistically analysed separately from the targeted chemical analytical data, and were found to predict grade better than 90 percent for Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Chardonnay. Spectra of grape homogenates in the mid-infrared region were found to be the most effective for grape grade prediction across the three varieties. The technology needed for this analysis is readily available to commercial laboratories, rapid, easy to use and can be calibrated across multiple seasons. This could have significant advantages over the slower and more complex methods needed for some of the chemical analyses discussed earlier. LOOKING AT WINE STYLE AND GRADE In 2015 the project was extended to explore the relationship between grape composition and wine style. For this part of the study, only two varieties (Shiraz and Chardonnay) were considered, from a single region (Riverland). Grapes from a range of grades were sourced from the Riverland; however, the grading system used in that region was different from that used in the previous season and the samples represented a narrower range of grape grades. Grapes were analysed for a similar range of compositional measures as those used in 2014. Small-lot wines (50kg) were made in duplicate using standardised winemaking conditions. Quantitative descriptive analysis was used to characterise the sensory properties of the wines and a panel of winemakers assessed style and grading categories from a commercial standpoint. Statistical analysis was used to relate grape compositional measures with wine style and grade allocations as well as the more detailed sensory profiles. Overall, it was possible to develop models to predict wine style and grade based on grape measures, but the accuracy of the predictions was not as high as the models developed to predict grape grade. This may have been partly due to the limitations of the sample set (narrowness of quality grades compared with the previous study and limited numbers of samples in each category) but also due to the complexity of the processes converting grape compounds into wine flavours and aromas. Nevertheless, many of the key grape measures found to be important in predicting grape grade in 2014 were also found to be important in predicting wine grade/style in 2015. These included Brix, glutamic acid, tannin, colour, chloride and E-2-hexenol. These findings provide leads to help focus future work in this area.

both in terms of quality rating and wine style. Wines will be produced commercially from each vineyard/grade and analysed compositionally and sensorially to determine differences in styles achievable between grades. Additional goals will be to identify vineyard or winery management options to shift grades from Q3 to Q2, and explore options to reduce the costs of producing Q2 grapes. CONCLUSION The work completed so far in identifying objective measures for grape grading and wine quality/style has confirmed the importance of some previously known quality markers but has also identified some new compounds not previously known to be important in defining quality or style. Both chemical and spectral measures have been successfully used in grape grade prediction, and the first efforts at extending this to prediction of wine grade and style are promising, but require further refinement. The application of such measures within the Australian wine sector has potential benefits for both grapegrowers and winemakers: improving transparency and communication across the value chain, reducing production costs and increasing value by ensuring that fruit is used most efficiently. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS This work was supported by Australia’s grapegrowers and winemakers through their investment body Wine Australia, with matching funds from the Australian Government. The AWRI is a member of the Wine Innovation Cluster in Adelaide. The authors are grateful to Alex Sas and Warren Birchmore (Accolade Wines) WVJ for support of the project and discussion of results.

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NEW PROJECT ON SHIRAZ A new project commencing in vintage 2017 will apply learnings from the work outlined above in collaboration with another large Australian wine producer. It will assess differences between two premium quality grades (Q2 and Q3) of Shiraz fruit and wine from 20 vineyards in South Australia. The aim is to identify chemical and spectral indicators that define Q2 and Q3 vineyards,

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TONY HOARE

Reworking vineyards - why, when and how? Part 1 By Tony Hoare Hoare Consulting, PO Box 1106, McLaren Flat, South Australia 5171 Email: tony@hoareconsulting.com.au

This is the first of a two part article on the reworking of vineyards. In this first instalment Tony will discuss the decision assessment criteria relating to reworking. In the next article he will discuss options for reworking with recent case studies as examples.

wish I had a dollar for every time I have heard an Australian grower lament the loss of old vines in the vine pull of the 1980s. If only we had that old patch of Shiraz or Grenache now! So many Australian iconic red and white wines have their fruit sourced from old vines which have survived the vine pull and are able to achieve a significant financial premium in the bottle. It’s no wonder those growers who pulled out their grandparents' vines are regretting it now, considering the price per tonne the old vines can command. The debate of the benefits of old versus young vines continues to rage and is the subject of scientific research by PhD candidate Dylan Grigg, at The University of Adelaide. While we await his outcomes, there is no denying the marketability of old vines as wine. We all know young vines can compete on wine quality levels with old vines and can, in many instances, exceed them. However, the sight of a gnarled old vine in a tiny patch is undoubtedly a more aesthetic wine marketing tool compared with a long uniform row of young vines. The wine marketing ploys of Zar Brooks have included adding an old piece of grapevine wood to boxes of wine as a part of sharing the vineyard with customers. A young, fresh cane wouldn’t have had quite the same impact. The fact probably was that the wood was diseased with the grower’s curse of Eutypa lata and was probably broken off with a machine harvester and caused

For commercial winegrape growers aged vines present both benefits and problems. As a product of age, vineyards and their infrastructure don’t necessarily improve and, in many instances, face a decline into unprofitability. One potential solution is to rework them. issues at the weighbridge as matter other than grapes, potentially breaking the crusher or a pump. This would have been lost on the wine drinker, who would have perhaps seen the wood as a link to the history of a vineyard and place dear to their hearts, and a representation of why that wine they just received in the post was

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TONY HOARE

so special. It seems the more uncommercial a vine appears, the more appealing it is to a wine consumer which explains why old vines, despite making cracking wines, make great visual entrances to cellar doors and overall marketing tools. For the commercial grower the effect of age on vines creates both benefits and problems. As a product of age, vineyards and their infrastructure don’t necessarily improve and, in many instances, face a decline into unprofitability. One potential solution is reworking. To rework a vineyard is a significant financial decision faced by growers. Why, when and how to rework are considerations that have many pros and cons. WHY REWORK? Reworking a vineyard is the process by which a vineyard is reinvigorated, repaired or fine-tuned to meet market demands into the future and return a financial profit. Vineyards are longterm financial propositions with a payback on capital investment over many years, even decades. They are slow to establish, taking up to three years to reach production and up to five years to reach maturity of fruit yield and quality. A labour intensive crop in the establishment phase, they can be more economically mechanised as they mature, however, fruit yield and quality is generally proportionate to the management inputs during the growing season. A high level of involvement with experienced and qualified personnel is required to achieve the maximum balance between fruit yield and quality. Despite sound management, yield and quality are subject to seasonal weather fluctuations and pest and disease pressures. Winegrapes are a perishable crop that have a narrow window for optimum harvest. Demand for winegrape varieties and their market value fluctuates based on consumer preferences both domestically and internationally. The grower has little control of his or her market and is subject to being a price-taker rather than a price-maker, especially when the market is in an oversupply stage of the economic cycle. The reasons for reworking are generally based on the profitability of a vineyard and there are many factors influencing the financial position of a vineyard over its lifespan. FACTORS CONTRIBUTING TO REDUCED VINEYARD PROFITABILITY Being a long-lived, perennial crop, winegrapes are subjected to many influences over time that can affect the financial position of the vineyard. While vineyard uniformity is the primary objective of vineyard managers and viticulturists, this is not always practical to achieve and the reality is that seasonal fluctuations will directly affect yield and fruit quality. Vineyard management intervention can overcome many threats to vineyard yield and fruit quality, however, the costs of the intervention needs to be at an economic threshold where profitability can be achieved into the future and the costs of reworking recovered. There are some threats to vineyard profitability that are beyond the control of vineyard managers and viticulturists and can eventually lead to decisions as to the future direction of the vineyard. VINEYARD ASSESSMENT CRITERIA FOR REWORKING Declining yield Ignoring yield in the first three seasons of vineyard establishment, an assessment of as many consecutive seasons’

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The crop value of a vineyard should be assessed over an average of 10 seasons to effectively gauge the true crop value. If the 10-year value of the crop is below that forecast in the business plan or is unprofitable, then the vineyard should be assessed for factors contributing to the reduction in crop value. yield as possible should be analysed to observe any declining yield. If a declining yield is observed over time, then the cause or causes of the yield decline should then be assessed. Yield decline can be attributed to many environmental factors that can have an increasing effect over time. Factors affecting yield decline: • water quality/availability – fluctuating seasonal rainfall and changes to irrigation water source • disease pressure – changing pressures due to climate and other environmental conditions affecting economic thresholds for control. Incurable or difficult to mitigate pests and diseases such as Eutypa lata, borers and birds • climate change - increased severe weather events such as heatwaves, frost, hail, strong winds, droughts and flooding. Changing macro, meso and microclimate effects on yield through physical damage, physiological growth and fruit maturity • salinity – airborne, groundwater or irrigation • soil health – changes in physical, chemical and biological status of the soil • competition vegetation – herbicide resistant weeds within vineyards and trees bordering vineyards • chemical residues – fungicide and herbicides from continued usage and previous land usage • reduced vine vigour due to vine age/health impacting yield through bunch numbers, bunch weight • changes in personnel – availability of qualified and experienced personnel. Declining crop value The crop value for a vineyard should be assessed over an average of 10 seasons to more effectively gauge the true crop value. If the 10-year value of the crop is below that forecast in the business plan or is unprofitable, then the vineyard should be assessed to see if there are factors contributing to the reduction in crop value. Crop value is a product of total yield and the price paid per tonne less operating expenses. The factors influencing yield fluctuations are discussed previously, however, the value of winegrapes is influenced by many other factors.

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Factors influencing crop value: • popularity of the winegrape variety based on wine consumer demand • demand and supply within the market segment of variety and pricepoint • quality of winegrapes and suitability to winery product pricepoints in relation to costs of production • achievement of winery specifications and consistency of achieving specifications despite seasonal fluctuations • pedigree/history or unique qualities of the vineyard and inherent value • consistency in yield and fruit quality • ability to manipulate crop yield and quality - experience and knowledge • security of winegrape sales – written agreements with wineries • costs of production. Costs of production The decision to rework a vineyard can also depend on its ability to produce a profitable crop and this is directly influenced by the costs of production. Increases in costs of production lower profitability and can be contributing factors when considering reworking. Many costs of production factors are linked proportionately to yield and fruit quality. Reducing costs of production without adversely affecting yield or fruit quality and increasing profitability is a challenge. The first step is to identify the factors where cost efficiencies can be made and then understanding the reaction of the vineyard to change. For every action there is a reaction, and it is important to consider

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the short and long-term ramifications of reducing costs of vineyard production. Some vineyard costs continue to rise or are unavoidable. If additional yield of fruit value cannot be achieved to offset these costs, then reworking the vineyard becomes a strong consideration. Vineyard production factors contributing to reduced profitability: • pest and disease – infection pressure and reoccurrence/ persistence, effects on fruit yield, quality, vineyard value and the economic threshold of control options • poor vineyard design – design layouts of some vineyards reduce profitability through increasing inefficiencies in management practices and costs of production • declining condition of infrastructure – trellis, irrigation system • reduced efficiencies due to high labour input/low mechanisation in relation to the value of fruit and total yield. The decision to rework is an expensive one and the reasons to rework should be carefully considered. Identifying the underlying causes of reduced vineyard profitability and then establishing a plan to rework should effectively return the vineyard to economic viability in the short term. In the next article, the tools for assessing vineyard suitability will be discussed along with reworking options with case studies. Before setting up his own vineyard and winery consultancy business with wife Briony, Tony Hoare established and managed the Ablington Vineyard Estate block in the Lower Hunter for five years before joining Wirra Wirra in McLaren Vale in 2002 where he managed the winery’s estate and contract vineyards. He and Briony also have their own wine label and cellar door, Beach WVJ Road Wines.

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NEW TECHNOLOGY

Prototype of app to help decide when grapes are harvest-ready put to the test in vintage 2017 By Sonya Logan

he release of an Australian-designed smartphone app that will help winegrape growers determine when their crops are ready to harvest and manage irrigations is a step closer after a prototype was put through its paces during the 2017 harvest. Developed by a team of researchers at the National Wine and Grape Industry Centre (NWGIC) Charles Sturt University with part funding from Wine Australia, the app, believed to be the first of its type in the world, has been designed to automatically detect the number of berries on a bunch, their size and colour distribution from a photo taken by a grower of a bunch still on the vine. Once released, the app will eliminate the need for grapes to be manually sampled and transported for laboratory analysis to measure berry size and colour. Manual sampling is not only time-consuming but it typically only involves up to 200 berries from a block or vineyard whereas the app will be capable of assessing significantly more fruit in real time, delivering a potential improvement of up to 200% on manual sampling and measurements. Leigh Schmidtke, acting director of the NWGIC, said the development of the app was an offshoot of research that had been conducted by the organisation into using grape physiological indicators such as berry volume, colour and sugar accumulation to determine the ideal time to harvest fruit to make desired wine styles. He explained the app prototype had been used to assess Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay grapes grown in two vineyards in Orange this vintage as well as Chardonnay and Shiraz grapes in a vineyard in Gundagai. “We’ve gone to those vineyards multiple times this vintage to collect bunches for berry size and colour assessment in the laboratory so we can calibrate the results of the app to make sure it works,” Schmidtke said. “We’re also going to make wines from the grapes assessed by the app and in the lab to demonstrate links between berry size and colour with wine style. “One of the main aims of the app is to demonstrate there is a real benefit in assessing the colour of white varieties in terms of the desired wine style,” he added. Schmidtke explained colour scientists and grape physiologists, machine learning analysts and app programmers had been working together to ensure the app makes an accurate assessment of the colour of the grapes captured by smartphones. Another aim is for the app to help manage or limit berry shrivel by measuring berry volume. If berry volume starts to decrease during the ripening process this may be the start of berry shrivel and we know from previous work at the NWGIC that shrivel leads to different wine fermentation outcomes and sensory styles. Schmidtke said release and evaluation of the alpha version of the app during the 2017 vintage by both grapegrowers

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Charles Sturt University and National Wine & Grape Industry Centre researcher Leigh Schmidtke tries out the berry imaging smart phone app aimed at helping winegrape growers determine when their crops are ready to harvest and manage or limit berry shrivel.

and winemakers had enabled user feedback to direct improvements to the app’s user interface. “We are using the feedback on the prototype of the alpha version from this vintage to redesign and improve the feel and functionality of the app. We need to make sure that users don’t need a PhD in rocket science to use the app. We’re also trying to ensure we have the right sort of mix of functions in the app. We now want to build into the interface the ability for users to capture spatial and temporal data so someone can go out into a vineyard, take some images and compare them with other images taken over a period of time to enable users to better monitor their vineyards. We want growers to get as much useable information from it as possible.” Schmidtke said the beta version of the app was expected to be released in the next few months in time for the 2018 WVJ vintage.

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Delving into the depths of Kangaroo Island red soil By Geoff Kew Kew Wetherby Soil Survey, PO Box 23, Yankalilla, South Australia 5203. Email: geoff@soilprofile.com.au

South Australia’s Kangaroo Island is home to about 12 wineries and around 200ha of vineyard planted mainly in the eastern half of the island in various locations. Geoff recently conducted a soil survey for a future vineyard site near Emu Bay to characterise soil types and determine soil physical limitations to vine root growth, determine predicted rootzone depths, and assess suitability for vineyard development. Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon will initially be planted on the site with the preferred soil type being the red Dermosol. He shares his findings here as part of his occasional column.

he soil profile described below is adjacent to Emu Bay Road, on Kangaroo Island. Soil on the property is derived from Cape Jervis Formation (CP-j) and Bridgewater Formation (Qpcb): • Cape Jervis Formation (CP-j) has a mixture of rocks and includes siltstone, sandstone, granite and granite gneiss, and sandy limestone • Bridgewater Formation (Qpcb) comprises sand-grain sized limestone (calcarenite) and calcium carbonate cemented windblown sediments (calcareous aeolianite); there may be paleo-horizons capped by laminar, powdery or bouldery calcrete. The property is surrounded by numerous saline lagoons, but soil analysis showed all soil to have low salinity levels (less than 2dS/m). The topsoil in this soil profile is reddish brown light clay (10cm thick) but this varies and in some locations a clay loam topsoil of similar colour was present over the red clay. The red clay from 10-60cm is subangular blocky, meaning it has soil peds with many angles that allow water and air movement through the clay. Vine roots will not be restricted by the clay topsoil and red clay below, and should reach a depth of 50cm. The bulk of the vine roots are not expected to extend into the clay soil carbonate layer below 60cm, with the exception of a few tap roots, even though the soil carbonate has an angular blocky structure (house brick shape) and is permeable. Below 105cm the clay becomes yellow brown with slowly permeable lenticular and prismatic structure. Water and air movement will be restricted by this clay. There was no evidence of waterlogging in the lower subsoil. The red Dermosol soils on the property dominate a ridge and in the event of excessive rainfall the soil is expected to drain internally to the sides were the lagoons are located. A readily available waterholding capacity (RAW) of 29mm was calculated based on a rootzone depth of 50cm. This RAW value is low to moderate and it is expected there could be some control of vine growth with irrigation. The topsoil clay loam and clay of the red clay soil will only need maintenance applications of agricultural lime as the topsoil pH is 5.0 to 6.0 (CaCl2). The rootzone soil pH is ideal at 7.0pH units. The soil carbonate below 60cm is alkaline and

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A soil profile from Emu Bay Road, Kangaroo Island, South Australia. ripping of the planting rows will need to avoid mixing alkaline soil with the above neutral red clay horizon. Overall the red clay soil on the property has the potential to produce premium quality grapes with the soil profile offering some soil physical limitations such as a clay soil carbonate layer and a low RAW value that will control vine WVJ vigour.

W I N E & VITICULTUR E JO UR NA L MARC H /APRIL 2017

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Making a statement with Durif By Sam Trimboli, Tony Steffania, Emma Norbiato, Jeremy Nascimben and Bill Calabria, Winemaking Team, Calabria Family Wines, Riverina, New South Wales

alabria Family Wines (CFW) planted Durif vines in 1996 as we could see the growing demand for Australian red wines, mainly for export to the United States. We wanted to produce a wine that would make a statement and place CFW on the map. Our brief: create a full-bodied dry red wine with big tannins, rich flavours and intense colour. Durif is a late-ripening grape and one of the last red varieties to be harvested. It ticked all the boxes for us, and the warm Mediterranean climate of the Riverina made ideal growing conditions for the Durif. Our first vintage was produced in 2000 and in its first showing, the wine went on to be awarded a gold medal at the Royal Adelaide Wine Show. From that moment, we knew what we were doing could only get better. It has been no mean feat changing perceptions when presenting a full-bodied Riverina red to the critics, however we quickly won them over. The 3 Bridges Durif medal tally is now up to 24 trophies and 270 medals. Our style is unashamedly New World - American oak and sweet fruit. In the early days we did play around with French oak but now our practices are set. Our winemaking philosophy for Durif at Calabria is also rather simple: let the fruit do the talking. Harvested at between 14-15 Baume (picked on tannic and flavour ripeness), the fruit is picked in the cool of the night to allow a slow gradual start to fermentation, then destemmed and partially crushed to 12 tonne open-top wax-lined concrete vats, which are pumped over twice daily during fermentation. The fruit is kept on skins for as long as possible before being pressed, typically seven to 10 days, when critical cap management is utilised so as to not over-extract, which is easy for such a tannic variety. The parcels are then basket and bag pressed to tank, and finish primary fermentation until dry in stainless steel. Next we rack off gross lees to tank for natural malolactic fermentation. Once the wine is malo dry and sulfured it is fully barrel matured in 100% American oak hogsheads and barriques, approximately 33% new oak, with the balance in a mix of varying ages of barrel, up to eighth use.

Durif being planted in the Calabria vineyard.

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The Calabria Familiy Wines winemaking team (from left) Jeremy Nascimben, Emma Norbiato, Bill Calabria and Tony Steffania (absent - Sam Trimboli) The parcels are then left to mature in barrel for 12-14 months, graded, blended, stabilised, coarse pad filtered and bottled. Quite simple really! One of the most important factors when it comes to making good quality Durif is to start in the vineyard with quality fruit. Over-ripe fruit shows porty, jammy characters, leading to a wine that lacks aromatics, and no doubt falls over with time. On the other hand, under-ripe fruit has green tannins, and due to Durif having such a large tannin structure, this is a characteristic that will moderately soften overtime – but if the fruit is not ripe it will always be present as hard, green and astringent. There is a window of a couple of days to capture fruit at its optimum; if we get this wrong there is the possibility of missing out for that vintage. The fruit that makes our 3 Bridges Durif is made up from a handful of growers. In most years about three separate blocks make the final cut. The vineyards differ in their soil profile, microclimate and elevation, from the heavy clay soils (eastern side) that are seen commonly throughout the Riverina to sandy loam over limestone (north-western side of town). Our site is fairly flat, with an elevation of about 116m to 200m. The architecture of all these vineyards also varies, some are double trellised to spread out the vigour, some are single trellised. Generally speaking we are in a region where there is a lot of mechanisation so row spacings are wide (about 3.6m) to allow machinery through. In truth, the vintages that seem to be regarded as some of the best have also been some of the driest seasons we have had here in the Riverina in almost two decades. This isn’t surprising, however a lot of work in the vineyard is also very important to achieve perfect ripeness. In 2005 one of our vineyards ripened faster than we had expected. The fruit was dehydrated, and once harvested, the tank tested at almost 18 Baume. There was only one option for this parcel of fruit – vintage fortified.

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DURIF By Peter Dry Emeritus Fellow, The Australian Wine Research Institute

Back in the '70s and early '80s when vintage ports, as they were then called, were on the rise, using Durif fruit was an ideal option with its intense colour and weight, matched with beautiful aromatics and inky concentration, these wines would have the structure to age for a lifetime. It made sense to try our hand at this, and with the success of the 2005 inaugural release, we repeated the process again in 2013. Currently we are selling our 16th vintage of 3 Bridges Durif, while our 17th vintage is happily maturing in barrel to be released later in the year. VITICULTURE Viticulturally speaking, there is a good reason why the French haven’t persisted with the variety. Durif is thin skinned, tight bunched, prone to overcropping, prone to second cropping, relatively late, and prone to botrytis, so if mismanaged, it can be quite a handful out on the farm. It is also a fairly tannic variety due to the variety’s pre-disposition for tight, compact, closed bunches, hence high skin to juice ratios. Exposed bunches are somewhat also prone to sunburn, hence basal leaf retention is part of a well-managed viticultural practice. The fruit tends to sunburn and raisin if the vines are stressed for moisture during hot spells, hence adequate irrigation reserves are also essential for quality fruit production. In warm areas, the variety is fairly prone to overcropping, and may also produce a substantial second crop in some years, hence sufficient vine vigour and canopy management is also key. For all its misgivings, Durif does have a fairly good crop recovery following spring frost damage, as it is an early budburst variety, as seen in the Riverina on 13 October 2013, when a black frost decimated up to 20% of the region’s vineyards as a whole, with some our blocks in the local area losing up to 80% vineyard foliage. H7V13 (UC Davis) is the most commonly available and planted clone, with V3 and V5 French clones also existing in much smaller quantities in Australia. WINE Durif produces dark, inky coloured wines with a firm texture and mouthfeel. The nose has black pepper overtones, and typically offers flavours of blue fruit, black fruit, plums, and especially blackberries. The wines are very tannic, with an ageing ability that can exceed 20 years in the bottle.

BACKGROUND Durif (dew-RIFF) was discovered in the 1860s in Isère (eastern France) in the experimental vineyard of Francois Durif, botanist and breeder. It was first mentioned in 1868 by ampelographer Victor Pulliat under the name ‘Plant du Rif’ as a variety propagated by said Durif. It is likely that Durif was an open-pollinated selection of Peloursin. DNA analysis in California in 1999 confirmed Peloursin as the female parent with Shiraz as the male. Durif seems to have been grown together with Peloursin from the time of its first commercial use, i.e., since the 1870s onwards. Since the 1960s, when there were approximately 400 hectares, Durif has virtually disappeared from France and is no longer recommended. The global area in 2010 was 3557ha, 80 percent of which was in the US, mainly California. In 1999, DNA analysis revealed that the majority of vines called ‘Petite Sirah’ in California were actually Durif, and a small proportion were Peloursin. There are also small areas of Durif in Mexico, Brazil, Chile and Israel. Synonyms are Dure, Duret, Gros Noir (Savoie, France), Petite Sirah (US), Serine des Maures and Sirane Fourchue; however, there is no officially recognised synonym in Europe. In the US, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau allows Petite Sirah to be used as a synonym for historical reasons—but they do not allow alternative spellings, e.g. Petit/Syrah. Durif was imported in 1908 to Rutherglen, Australia by Francois de Castella. Peloursin may have been inadvertently introduced at the same time because some Durif vineyards have a significant proportion of Peloursin vines. All clones imported to Australia since the 1960s have proved to be Durif. There were 625ha planted in 2016 (up 25 percent from 2012) with 114 wine producers in more than 30 regions, mainly Rutherglen, Riverina and Barossa Valley. VITICULTURE Budburst is mid-season and maturity is mid to late season. Vigour is high with a spreading growth habit. Bunches are medium and compact with small berries. Yield is moderate. Spur pruning is used in Australia. Berries are susceptible to bunch rot, sunburn and shrivel. Durif is tolerant of mildews (not ‘resistant’ as claimed in some references). WINE Durif wines are well-coloured, full bodied and tannic with good ageing potential. Descriptors include dark fruits, black pepper and liquorice. It is mainly used for varietal wines in Australia and California—but is also useful as a blending component.

For further information on this and other emerging varieties, contact Marcel Essling (marcel.essling@awri. com.au or 08 8313 6600) at The Australian Wine Research Institute to arrange the presentation of the Alternative Varieties Research to Practice program in your region.

WVJ

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What can be learned from the Yalumba v Pernod Ricard stoush over ‘Signature’? By James Omond, Omond & Co., Melbourne, Victoria

A registered trade marks attorney, we asked James, who acted for Pernod Ricard Winemakers after Yalumba took it to court to stop the French-based company using ‘Signature’ on a range of its Jacob’s Creek wines, to explain what lessons can be learned from the case.

here has been a great deal of harrumphing by certain sections of the wine industry about the use by Pernod Ricard Winemakers (PRW) of the word ‘Signature’ as part of an extension of its Jacob’s Creek Reserve range. Indeed, some of the criticism has bordered on the xenophobic, with the word ‘French’ frequently used as a derogatory term. But what did PRW really do, and what can other producers learn from this case? The introduction of three ‘Barossa Signature’ wines into the Jacob’s Creek Reserve range was to ‘premiumise’ wines sourced from the Barossa Valley. The name was initially chosen to identify the wine as quintessentially Barossan and originating from the traditional home of the Jacob’s Creek’s brand. PRW also took a cue from the world of spirits when deciding what to name the brand extension – where the word ‘Signature’ is used to indicate quality or highlight some other aspect of a product. At the time the name was coined, those involved had no knowledge of Yalumba’s ‘The Signature’ product. During the naming process, both ‘Barossa Signature’ and ‘Barossa Series’ were considered. As part of this process, ‘availability searches’ were conducted by PRW’s legal team, and Yalumba’s existing trade mark was identified, together with the use of the term ‘Signature’ by many other producers – both as part of product names and in the name of the producer itself.1 The legal advice was that, provided the word ‘Barossa’ was used in conjunction with the word ‘Signature’ and that the two words were used in the same font, colour, size, etc, they would be considered as purely descriptive and, therefore, neither registrable as a trade mark nor an infringement of an existing trade mark.

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KEY LESSONS • Don’t just get legal advice about potential trade mark infringement understand how important the issue is to the other side from a commercial perspective. • Understand the extent and limitation of your trade mark registrations – you might think that ‘it’s obvious’ what the key element is, but the more elements in the registration, the more diluted is the protection for the key element. • When applying for a trade mark, less is more. • Be diligent in preventing other producers from using the key elements of your brand. • Understand the consequences if you lose a case – which can be very damaging for the ongoing protection you can claim for your existing trade mark registration.

When the PRW product was released, Yalumba’s lawyers sent a cease-anddesist letter to PRW, leading to PRW obtaining further external legal advice. This advice confirmed the earlier advice, although suggested offering a number of actions which could be seen as a benefit for Yalumba. But as can be seen from Yalumba issuing proceedings, nothing short of PRW ceasing use of the word ‘Signature’ was going to be enough for Yalumba. So, what can other producers take from this? The first thing is that sometimes it’s not enough to have a good case to avoid litigation. PRW obtained legal advice from three different sources – each time the advice was that it had a good case. The judge’s decision showed that advice to be correct. But still PRW was dragged into a lengthy and costly court case. From the other side of the litigation, it is not possible to know whether Yalumba also had legal advice that it had a strong case. But clearly Yalumba felt very strongly about the issue. This was personal – which is understandable given that the current release of Yalumba’s

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‘The Signature’ bears the signature of Yalumba’s current proprietor and chairman, Robert Hill-Smith, the label was launched by his father, and the first release had borne the signature of his great-great-grandfather. The learning from this is that sometimes you need to do more than just search the Trade Marks Register, and obtain technical legal advice. You need to understand how important the issue is to the other side, as they may take you to court as a matter of principle. Of course, armed with this understanding, you may decide to proceed anyway. Looking at the case from Yalumba’s position, there are a number of lessons for other brand owners. The first is to have a good understanding of exactly what your brand is from a trade mark perspective – and what you have protected. The 1 This includes ‘Signature Wines’ – also based in the Barossa Valley and which, according to the Wine Industry Directory, produces more than 250,000 cases per year – and sub-brands from 21 different producers (other than Yalumba) including Bimbadgen, Sirromet Wines, Briar Ridge Vineyard, Brian Fletcher Signature Wines, Richard Hamilton, Huntington Estate, and Handpicked Wines. On top of this were producers identified using ‘Signature’ as a sub-brand and not listed in the Directory – such as Robert Oatley Wines, Shaw Wines, Enoki, and Long Gully Estate.

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nub of Yalumba’s case focussed on its claim to exclusivity in the word ‘Signature’. Unfortunately for Yalumba, its registration was for ‘The Signature’, and the word ‘the’ could not be ignored in assessing the question of ‘deceptive similarity’. A further lesson from this is that, when applying for a trade mark, keep it to as few elements as possible so that the additional words/logos don’t dilute the protection for the main element of your brand that you want to protect. Of course, if your key element is descriptive of your product or not registrable for some other reason, you will need to add other distinctive elements to get it accepted for registration. A second lesson from the Yalumba perspective is that the company had not been diligent in preventing other producers from using the word ‘Signature’ – whether in its subbranding, or even as its main brand – the most prominent example being a 250,000+ case brand just down the road from them trading under the name ‘Signature Wines’. Although there was no specific reference to other producers in the judgment, in finding that the marks are not ‘deceptively similar’ the presence of these other uses in the back of the judge’s mind can’t be discounted. A third lesson from Yalumba’s perspective is to consider the consequences of losing a case such as this. As has been mentioned in many of the mainstream press articles, the judge found that use by PRW of the word ‘Signature’ was use as a trade mark. This was actually the worst possible result for Yalumba as it means that other producers can now use the word ‘Signature’ in a trade mark sense. Of course, those producers would need to follow the same rules that PRW set for itself – to ensure that the word is used in an adjectival sense, and that there is no undue emphasis given to the word ‘Signature’ as part of a broader use of the word. THE LEGAL CASE This was a most unusual case for a trade mark infringement because such cases are normally accompanied by allegations of ‘misleading and deceptive conduct’ (a breach of the Australian Consumer Law), and ‘passing off’ (a

common law action alleging unlawful taking advantage of someone else’s reputation). But as can be seen from the two labels, there was no danger of them being mistaken for each other, not to mention the fact that the “offendin’” product was clearly labelled as ‘Jacob’s Creek’ (Australia’s largest selling wine brand). Yalumba’s case was one of pure trade mark infringement. It has a long-standing trade mark registration for ‘The Signature’. It argued that use by PRW of the words ‘Barossa Signature’ on its Jacob’s Creek Reserve Barossa Signature range was “use as a trade mark”2, and that such use was “deceptively similar”3 to Yalumba’s registration. If proven, this would constitute an infringement of Yalumba’s registration. Because this was a pure infringement case, relying on a straight comparison between the two marks, Yalumba was not able to rely on the reputation of its wines under ‘The Signature’ label. Similarly, other matter appearing on the labels of PRW’s Barossa Signature wines, including the trade mark ‘Jacob’s Creek’, also had to be disregarded. To show that the marks were ‘deceptively similar’, Yalumba needed the judge to ignore (or significantly read down) the presence of the word ‘The’ in Yalumba’s mark, and ‘Barossa’ in PRW’s mark. Pernod Ricard Winemakers argued three different defences: 1. Pernod Ricard Winemakers wasn’t actually using the words as a trade mark at all, but was using them in an adjectival sense. 2. If Pernod Ricard Winemakers’ use was use ‘as a trade mark’, then the relevant expression ‘Barossa Signature’ is neither substantially identical with nor deceptively similar to ‘The Signature’ and, therefore, it is not an infringement. 3. If Pernod Ricard Winemakers’ use was use ‘as a trade mark’, then such use constituted “use of a sign in good faith to indicate the kind, quality, Section 7, Trade Marks Act

3 A trade mark is taken to be ‘deceptively similar’ to another trade mark if it so nearly resembles that other trade mark that it is likely to deceive or cause confusion - Section 10, Trade Marks Act.

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Yalumba recently failed its Federal Court application to stop Pernod Ricard using ‘Barossa Signature’ on a range of its Jacob’s Creek wines. Yalumba claimed Pernod Ricard’s use of ‘Signature’ was an infringement of Yalumba’s ‘The Signature’ trade mark. The judge deemed Pernod Ricard was using ‘Signature’ as a trademark, but it was not ‘deceptively similar’ to the Yalumba trade mark. She also found Yalumba’s ‘The Signature’ was not well known enough to cause confusion.

Section 122(1)(b)(i), Trade Marks Act

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intended purpose, value, geographical origin or some other characteristic of the goods”, so even if the use was an infringement, nonetheless this is a statutory defence4. It only needed to succeed on one of these grounds. Judge Natalie Charlesworth held the word ‘Signature’ as used by PRW was use of a conventional word as an adjective – but because it was not placed before the noun, as adjectives normally are, the expression ‘Barossa Signature’ was “an unconventional use of conventional words”, and variously: • “used in an invented combination” • “grammatical nonsense” • “the meaning is conveyed impressionistically rather than literally” • “the unusual combination of words creates the impression of a softly spoken slogan”. This directly resulted in PRW losing on the first and third arguments (i.e., it meant PRW was using the expression as a trade mark), but it also meant that PRW succeeded in its second argument – namely that its mark was

M A R K S

not ‘deceptively similar’ to the Yalumba mark, because the Yalumba mark uses the word ‘Signature’ as a noun (emphasised by the use of the definite article ‘The’) – and as a result the meanings of the two marks are quite different. Some clarification is desirable in relation to the third defence because her Honour was “satisfied that the sign ‘Barossa Signature’ in fact indicates the relevant characteristic, albeit by the indirect means of a peculiar phrase”. However, to attract the protection of this defence, the impugned use must be solely for the purposes of description – meaning this was a “double use” (i.e., her Honour found that PRW also wanted it to function as a trade mark). There has been some reporting that PRW’s use of the mark was not ‘in good faith’. This is not true. The term ‘good faith’ is a technical legal term and relates to the basis on which an alleged infringer has used the mark to indicate a characteristic of its product. The judge was “satisfied that the sign ’Barossa Signature’ in fact indicates the relevant characteristic, albeit by the indirect

means of a peculiar phrase” – so there was no finding of a lack of good faith on PRW’s part in adoption of the mark, but PRW failed on this ground because it also used the expression as a trade mark.

James Omond acted for Pernod Ricard Winemakers in this case. James is a lawyer and registered trade marks attorney. He established his own firm, Omond & Co, in 2002 to provide specialist legal services to the wine industry after nearly a decade as inhouse counsel for Southcorp Wines. His many roles in the industry include serving as vice-president of the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia and chair of the Small Winemakers Membership Committee, a founding director of Wine Victoria and serving on its board (including when it was the VWIA) for more than 10 years, serving on Wine Australia’s Legislation Review Committee since 2008, and as honorary counsel for Wine Communicators of Australia and Sommeliers Australia. WVJ

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The effect of simulated transportation conditions on the chemical, physical and sensory profiles of Müller-Thurgau and Scheurebe wines By Rainer Jung and Christoph Schuessler Institut für Oenologie, Hochschule Geisenheim University, Von-Lade-Strasse 1, D-65366, Geisenheim, Germany

The impact of different phases of shipment (at sea and at port) on two German white wines of two vintages and the lasting effects of three temperature regimes over time was investigated. The wines were then analysed for chemical, physical and sensorial changes at one and eight months posttreatment. INTRODUCTION AND BACKGROUND There are numerous stages of the oenological process that have an impact on a wine’s characteristics and overall quality. After bottling, several factors influence the wine quality including light exposure, humidity, oxygen, vibrations, temperature, pH, acidity and overall wine matrix. The shelf life of a wine essentially begins at bottling, and from this moment the product’s quality parameters can be influenced positively or negatively. The conditions that wine is subjected to during shipment could play a role in the loss of wine quality due to temperature changes, bottle movement and associated oxygen uptake. It is not uncommon for wines to be submitted to extreme temperatures (above 45°C), often with significant fluctuations, when they are transported. Wines that are transported between continents may be subjected to a variety of temperature patterns in a shipping container, including a steady increase of temperature affecting wines shipped from winter temperatures towards the equator and further on to summer temperatures. Perhaps the most extreme shipping temperatures are experienced during the transshipment phase, since relay ports are often located close to the equator. While the wine is sitting in the transshipment phase, it is generally unprotected and therefore is subject to extreme differences between night and day temperatures, called ‘diurnal fluctuations’. The repeated expansion and contraction of a wine subjected to diurnal fluctuations can cause significant changes to the wine, since air could be expelled from the bottle as the wine warms, possibly to the point of cork movement, and then air could be drawn into the bottle as the wine cools, especially if the cork seal is compromised. It has also been shown that transportation can have an influence on wine quality due to movement. A study on the impact of shipping wines across the US showed that transportation can cause a bottle ageing effect on wine of between one to 18 months when compared with wine stored at cellar temperatures. The impact of linearly increasing temperatures, such as

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those experienced during transport at sea, and diurnally fluctuating temperatures, such as those experienced while sitting at port, was investigated alongside the impact of movement of the bottles in comparison to typical cellar conditions: 15°C without physical movement. MATERIALS AND METHODS This experiment was performed on two white wines, both in bottle with natural cork closures: 2013 Weinheimer Sybillenstein Scheurebe Trocken (Rheinhessen) and 2014 Nussdorfer Herrenberg Müller-Thurgau Trocken (Pfalz). These wines were subjected to three different temperature treatments: a constant cellar temperature (15°C), a linear increase in temperature (15°C to 45°C over a six-day period), and a diurnal fluctuation of temperature (between 15°C and 40°C over 12 hours for eight days), carried out in a programmable temperature chamber (Memmert ICH 750). The temperature programs were designed to have equal amounts of thermal energy applied. Within each temperature program, there were some bottles which were held still and other bottles which were subjected to mechanical movement. In total, there were six treatments applied to each variety: control non-movement (CNM), control movement (CM), linear non-movement (LNM), linear movement (LM), diurnal nonmovement (DNM), and diurnal movement (DM). STAR:0DDI submersible thermometer/pressure readers (DST Milli-T, STAR:0DDI), or ‘data loggers’, were used to record actual temperatures within 12 randomly selected bottles within each temperature program. Temperature and pressure readings were recorded every 30 minutes. In-bottle oxygen levels in the headspace and wine were monitored using non-invasive oxygen sensor spots alongside a fiber optic oxygen meter (Fibox 3-Trace, PreSens GmbH). After the wines were submitted to the simulated transportation temperatures, they were compared with the wines kept at standard cellar conditions (15°C). Three wines from each treatment were sampled and analysed by a Fourier Transform InfraRed (FTIR) Foss machine. Measurements of free and total sulfur dioxide (SO2) were carried out using the flow injection analysis technique ▶ using a Foss FIAstar 5000 analyser.

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Samples from each treatment were analysed for colour at 380 to 770nm using a DR Lange CADAS 200 spectral photometer. ASTM software (standards on colour and appearance) was used to calculate the CIELab parameters L*, a* and b*. When the corks were removed from the bottles which were sampled for FTIR, SO2 and colour analysis, they were immediately weighed. Then, the corks were dried in a drying oven at 80°C for 24 hours in order to determine the dry weight and cork moisture. A panel of 13 judges was trained to carry out a descriptive analysis of the wines, analysis sheets were prepared using FIZZ software. Also the statistical analyses for the sensory results were performed using FIZZ software (version 4.46A, Biosystemes).

Legend for Figures 1-8. Variety

MT / MTH

Müeller-Thurgau

SCH

Scheurebe

Other

Control, non-moved

Control, moved

LNM

Linear temperature increasing, non-moved

Linear temperature increasing, moved

DNM

Diurnal temperature, non-moved

Diurnal temperature, moved

AVG

Average

°C

LNM LM

DNM DM CNM

Figure 1. Average temperature recordings for all programs (Müller-Thurgau). 2,5 2 1,5 1 bar

The results of the temperature and pressure measurements are presented in Figures 1 and 2 as averages for each of the simulated transportation programs. The results of the data logging indicated that all of the temperature programs were carried out according to the planned programs. In the linear program daily decreases in temperature and pressure could be observed, and temperature was demonstrated to be the most significant factor influencing the pressure in the bottles. Vibrated bottles showed a higher pressure than those left in the temperature cabinet. In the later part of the linear program, cork expulsion was experienced with the MüllerThurgau wines. Figure 3 shows the oxygen measurements taken in bottles from control and the two temperature programs in both the headspace of the bottle and in the wine. It could be measured in the control non-movement program that the headspace oxygen was dissolved into the wine during the storage time. In the control movement program, it was observed that the movement of the wine caused a faster uptake of oxygen from the headspace into the wine. In the linear program, it was observed that the decrease of headspace oxygen took a longer time because the solubility of oxygen in the wine with increasing temperature was lower. Movement indicated an increase of oxygen content in the wine. During the storage with diurnal temperature changes, a significant decrease of headspace oxygen was observed from the first high temperature phase to the first low temperature phase due to the better solubility of oxygen at lower temperatures. Also here the effect of movement was the shortly observed increase of oxygen in the wine. After one month only in some parameters of the chemical analysis, trends could be seen which support the anticipated result of separation between control program wines and linear and/or diurnal program wines. However, there was not significant evidence to indicate that there was a difference between the chemical composition of wines which were moved versus not moved within the same program. A descriptive sensory analysis of the wines performed by 13 trained judges revealed a distinction between the wine from the different grape varieties Scheurebe and Müeller-Thurgau

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Description

Treatment CNM

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Code

0,5

LNM LM DNM DM CNM

-0,5 -1

Figure 2. Average pressure recordings for all programs (Müller-Thurgau). (Figure 4). However, sensory differences among wines within the same variety which were subjected to different treatments were not distinguishable. This result proved the chemical analysis of the wines which indicated the similarity of the samples as mentioned before. CONCLUSION Generally this research could show that wines which were transported under different conditions were more robust than expected.

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CONTROL

500

200

2 1

100

300

600

200

Movement

400

Movement

300

[ppm]

400

500

[hPa]

[ppm]

600

[hPa]

600

100 0

LINEAR PROGRAM

200

1 0

300 2 1

100

400

600

200

Movement

[ppm]

300 2

[hPa]

[ppm]

400

500

[hPa]

500

600

Movement

100 0

DIURNAL PROGRAM

100 0

400

3 2 1 0

Movement

200

[ppm]

300 2

[hPa]

[ppm]

400

500

300

[hPa]

500

600

Movement

200 100 0

Figures 3-8. Oxygen in headspaces and wines during different transportation situations. Aromaintensity 0,8916 NS 9

Bitterness 0,7338 NS

Citrus Fruit 0,0201 *

Sweetness 0,9404 NS

6 5

Burnt Aroma <0,0001 ***

MTH LNM

MTH M

Acidity 0,918 NS

MTH CNM MTH CM

Tropical Fruit 0,0082 **

1 0

MTH DNM MTH M SCH CNM SCH CM SCH LNM

Honey/Marzipan <0,0001 ***

Vegetable 0,0008 ***

SCH M SCH DNM SCH M

Earthy/Moldy <0,0001 *** Oxidized <0,0001 ***

Candy <0,0001 *** Stone Fruit 0,0086 **

Figure 9. Aroma profiles for descriptive sensory analysis from wines of varying transport situations. V3 2N 2

The transportation programs were designed to simulate different phases of the transport of wine in trans-equatorial conditions and to observe if a difference exists between a diurnal fluctuation of temperature (pumping effect) and a linear increase of temperature, both of which may be experienced in transport. Care was taken that both programs exerted the same amount of thermal energy on the wines. There were only slight chemical and physical changes to the treated wines, however, the sensory profiles of the transported young white wines were robust to transportation conditions, especially shortly after the experiment. This is a positive result for much of the international wine industry, particularly for those wineries which ship wine domestically WVJ and internationally.

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Finalist wines in the Sydney International Wine Competition are sorted into food-friendly style categories then judged beside food dishes of similar palate weight.

Food for wine styles â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Sydney International Wine Competition By Marcell Kustos

The Sydney International Wine Competition, sponsored by the publisher of the Wine & Viticulture Journal Winetitles Media, is the only Australian wine show to judge finalist wines in combination with appropriate food. With a Bachelor in Food Engineering and a Masters in Gastronomy, Marcell Kustos, a PhD candidate in food and wine pairing and sensory marketing at The University of Adelaide, was invited to design food and wine pairings alongside renowned chef Michael Manners for the 2017 SIWC. We asked Marcell to give us some insight into how they went about the process.

ood and wine have generally been consumed together since ancient times - enjoying them together can increase the satisfaction of both. However, when it comes to pairing food and wine, multi-sensory interactions are involved between taste, texture, aromas and emotions. I am currently investigating these interactions as part of my PhD research at the University of Adelaide and last year, I was invited to design food and wine pairings at the 37th Sydney International Wine Competition (SIWC) alongside guest celebrity chef Michael Manners. The SIWC is unique among wine shows in Australia in that the final wines are judged with food. In October

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2016 the competition took place in the Blue Mountains with 1911 wines from eight countries. The final 400 wines were retasted and judged alongside appropriately matched food. Another difference with the SIWC is that apart from the specialist categories (sparkling, fortified, Pinot Noir, etc) the bulk of the finalists are pre-tasted prior to the final phase of judging and separated into categories based on their palate weight (lighter, medium and fuller-bodied dry wines). Palate weight is one of the most critical elements when finding balance with food, as you will often find lighter, medium and fuller bodied styles of the same grape varietals.

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If pairing food with a single bottle does not sound challenging enough, imagine pairing food for 15 wine style categories, each consisting of more than 10 wines. For instance, the mediumbodied red was a group of more than 40 wines. Since the wines were categorised based on palate weight, they might have differed in other sensory aspects such as aroma profile, acidity, alcohol, astringency, flavour intensity, etc, so it is important that this is understood when considering how to match the wines with food. As a researcher who has a great passion for gastronomy, I was delighted to combine Michaelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s knowledge with part of my research. So how did we

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match 20 wines with a single plate? Most importantly, we kept it simple. Although we brought a more scientific approach to the process, deconstructing food and wine down to the molecular level, we remained true to the legacy of the SIWC. The food needs to be simple, does not overpower the wine and is consumer friendly to prepare. For consistency during the judging process, each mouthful has to have identical flavours and textures which are consistent irrespective of temperature as a panel tasting could take up to 30 minutes. We took into consideration seasonal local produce, the number of wines and the dominating wines from each category in previous years. Portion size and ease of edibility are also important for the international judging panel in day-long tastings. All too often books talk about aroma compounds shared by both food and wine and get lost in the nuances of pairing. However, in reality, if you randomly take 10 wines they are more likely to share similarities in taste (sour, sweet, bitter, salty) and mouthfeel sensations (grainy, drying, viscous, alcohol heat, etc.). Take the medium-bodied dry white wines category, for example. In the previous five years of the SIWC, mainly Chardonnay wines made it to the final

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Michael Manners (right), guest celebrity chef for the 2016 Sydney International Wine Competition, with Marcell Kustos, who assisted Michael in designing the food and wine pairings for the competition. alongside a few Pinot Gris and Semillon Sauvignon Blancs. Chardonnay can be described as moderately fruity with medium alcohol, medium weight, and medium to high acidity. To match that, we designed a refreshing, summery dish, a twist on the classic pairing of Chardonnay and chicken: chicken

Panel judge Megan Brodtmann retastes some finalist wines with food at the 2016 Sydney International Wine Competition. Following her first experience as a panel judge for the event in 2012 Brodtmann said she was fascinated to see certain wines outperform when tasted with the food.

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fillet with tomato mandarin gazpacho, white sauce, and crunchy fennel salad. The mouthfeel of a tender breast fillet rather resembles a fruity, crisp Chardonnay whereas rich, roasted thighs would better suit full-bodied, oaked, lees-stirred Chardonnays. To complement the racy acidity and fresh fruits of the wines, traditional gazpacho (roast garlic, basil leaves, chicken stock) was spiced up with mandarin while the addition of a creamy white sauce lifted the dish up to medium palate weight. Besides the crust on the fillet we wanted to put more texture into the dish. Thinly sliced fennel bulb was marinated in lemon and mandarin juice with fresh coriander leaves. Although our initial focus was on taste and mouthfeel, the final dish defined a flavour style: cooling freshness that is often associated with modern Chardonnay wines. The suggested food and wine combinations arguably make the SIWC the most relevant wine competition for consumers. After all, the awarded wines are expected to perform at the dining table. The winning wines and the paired dishes can be found at www. top100wines.com WVJ

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Producers maintain their cool for Tempranillo One straight Tempranillo wine and two with a splash of Shiraz and Graciano, respectively, all made with fruit from cool climate regions, topped our recent tasting of Australian Tempranillo and Tempranillodominant blends. How those wines came together are described by their producers here. JASON BROWN OWNER/WINEMAKER MOPPITY VINEYARDS HILLTOPS, NEW SOUTH WALES Wine: Moppity Vineyards 2015 Cato ‘La Lucha’ Tempranillo (RRP$35.00/bottle) (100% Tempranillo)

VITICULTURE Moppity Vineyard sits at 650m above sea level in the cool climate Hilltops region in southern New South Wales. In Tempranillo’s homeland of Spain, the best Tempranillo is grown in the higher, cooler slopes of Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa. The Hilltops wine region enjoys a high diurnal temperature range, which works really well for a variety like Tempranillo that can have a relatively short growing cycle. Tempranillo has a fast budburst and then ripens very quickly. The high diurnal temperature stretches out the growing season, resulting in wines that are brighter, fresher and more complex. Our primary concern with planting Tempranillo was its survival in our vineyard’s bony, free-draining, hungry, thirsty, lean soil. It is really good viticultural country but it can take a very long time to establish new plantings. One of our best assets is that we have some of the oldest vine root systems in the region. We made the decision to graft the Tempranillo onto some existing mature Chardonnay and Semillon vines. Two different clones, D8V12 and D8V13, were grafted onto four different sites with a variety of aspects, elevations and soil types. It was a risky and expensive decision but it meant we could preserve the old vine root system, and it gave us 40-year-old Tempranillo vines after one year of planting. The biggest challenges were to keep yields down and provide shade for the fruit. Several thinning passes were made throughout the growing season to reduce the yield and encourage canopy cover.

WINEMAKING The fruit was harvested at night and cold soaked prefermentation. It was then matured in new French oak barrels for 12 months. This is only our second vintage of Tempranillo at Moppity Vineyards. Everything on paper suggested Tempranillo would be a perfect fit for our vineyard and the transition has given us instant gratification. The first vintage was released under our Lock & Key Reserve label; for that wine we used all old oak to really capture the fragrance, vibrancy and brightness of the fruit. To benchmark we entered the wine into shows where it was awarded one trophy and four gold medals. The quality of the 2015 vintage was incredible. We felt the fruit could handle some new oak to produce a much more complex and serious wine. We separated the fruit and really dialled up the winemaking on the Cato parcels. Whilst the Cato Tempranillo was maturing in new oak, the second vintage of the

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Moppity Vineyards owner and winemaker Jason Brown. Lock & Key Reserve Tempranillo was back on the show circuit and was awarded another trophy and 10 gold medals. It was a nervous wait but final blending of the Cato Tempranillo revealed a wine with beautiful palate weight, texture, complexity and structure.

MARKETING Tempranillo is perfect for consumers wanting to explore and move beyond the classic varieties. There’s a natural and easy progression into Tempranillo, where consumers can experience where Old World meets New World. There’s plushness, generosity, richness and fruit sweetness that many consumers are familiar with in wines from South Australia. But Hilltops Tempranillo has a twist; it has a savoury kick, depth of ﬂavour and restraint. Hilltops Tempranillo will serve as a great stepping stone for people to continue on their wine journey. Moppity Vineyards produces two styles of Tempranillo: a young, juicy ‘Joven’ style under our Lock & Key Reserve label, and the more serious ‘Reserva’ style under our Cato label. The 2015 Cato Tempranillo was first released in September 2016. We’ve named the range ‘Cato’ after Marcus Cato who ﬁrst documented viticultural theories and philosophies more than 2100 years ago (that are still very relevant today). His foresight, loyalty and devotion to viticulture have paved the way for us, so we can continue to explore and push boundaries, to produce new varieties in already established regions in order to keep raising the bar and shifting perceptions of Australian winemaking. Cato is currently available in independent on and off premise outlets in New South Wales, ACT and Victoria.

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GWYN OLSEN HEAD WINEMAKER BRIAR RIDGE VINEYARD HUNTER VALLEY, NEW SOUTH WALES Wine: Briar Ridge 2016 Limited Release Hilltops-Hunter Tempranillo (RRP$35/bottle) (87.8% Tempranillo, 12.2% Shiraz) VITICULTURE This wine was made from fruit contract-grown by Moppity Vineyards, in the New South Wales Hilltops region, and from our Mount View property in the Hunter Valley. The Tempranillo vines in our Mount View vineyard were planted six years ago on a south-facing slope and are cane pruned. We apply sunscreen to the fruit to ensure it ripens without any issues. At harvest we look for ripe seed tannin, good flavours and well-developed colour.

WINEMAKING Both parcels of fruit were machine harvested and then destemmed at the winery. The Hunter Valley Tempranillo was fermented in an open fermenter and plunged three times daily. The Hilltops fruit was fermented in a static fermenter and pumped over three times daily. Both wines were inoculated with M2 yeast strain and inoculated for MLF when ferment reached 7-6 Baume. The resulting wines were pressed off skins once sugar dry and then racked to used French oak puncheons for maturation. The wines were left in barrel for nine months before being blended, fined with egg and sterile filtered to bottle.

MARKETING This wine sits in our Limited Release range which is our middle tier of wines. Our aim is to diversify the varietals offered through our cellar door and to our wine club members. The Hilltop-Hunter blend allowed us to create a delicious wine from New South Wales from what was a very tough vintage in the Hunter Valley.

Briar Ridge head winemaker Gwyn Olsen. Photo: Chris Elfes, Elfes Images

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Brown Brothers’ winemakers Katherine Brown and Geoff Alexander with chief viticulturist Brett McClen (far right). GEOFF ALEXANDER, WINEMAKER; BRETT MCLEN, CHIEF VITICULTURIST; KATHERINE BROWN, ASSISTANT WINEMAKER BROWN BROTHERS MILAWA, KING VALLEY Wine: Brown Brothers 2015 18EN Tempranillo (RRP$18.90/bottle) (95% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano)

VITICULTURE Our 2015 18EN Tempranillo comprises 95 percent Tempranillo and 5% Graciano. The Tempranillo fruit was sourced predominantly from Brown Brothers own vineyard at Banksdale, in the King Valley , with the remainder coming from our Heathcote vineyard. The Graciano was picked from our Milawa vineyard in the King Valley. The Tempranillo vines at Banksdale are grown on a ridgetop vineyard at an elevation of 450m. The soil in which the vines grow is a volcanic red chromosol (a ‘Krasnozem’ in the old terminology) overlying basalt; it is well-structured and fertile. There is no frost risk at this site and winds are moderate. The average heat degree day (HDD) accumulation at the site for October to April during the past 17 years is 1862. The mean maximum and minimum temperatures at the site for this period are as follows:

Oct

Nov Dec

Jan

Feb Mar Apr

Mean max

18.9

24.5

26.6

30.6

30.2

26.2

21.2

Mean min

9.0

12.8

13.4

16.0

15.8

13.2

10.5

The Tempranillo at our Banksdale vineyard was planted in 2004. The clone is D8V12 and the vines are grafted onto two different rootstocks, 101-14 and Riparia Gloire. The choice of rootstock was based on achieving the highest possible quality on soils with high fertility and where water is non-limiting. The vines are pruned to an arched cane system (double guyot) while the canopy is vertically shoot positioned. The crowns are shoot thinned and the vines are also leaf plucked after fruitset to optimise bunch exposure (Tempranillo grows very large leaves). In a heavy crop year we also bunch-thin. The spacing between vine rows is 2.5m while between vines it is 1.8m, giving a planting density of 2222 vines/ha.

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The fruit for the Brown Brothers 2015 18EN Tempranillo was sourced primarily from Brown Brothers’ Banksdale vineyard (left), in Victoria’s King Valley, with the remainder picked from the company’s vineyard at Heathcote (right) and its other King Valley site at Milawa. Due to the high water-holding capacity of the soil, the vines are not normally irrigated until well into January and from there, irrigation is really only applied to maintain canopy condition: one irrigation application per week usually suffices. It would be rare to apply more than 1.0ML/ha. There is a very healthy mid-row sward in the Tempranillo predominately made up of tall fescue. Other than keeping this under control there is not a lot of soil management required on account of high organic matter percentage, non-limiting topsoil depth and high water-holding capacity. After careful selection of replacement canes the vines are pre-pruned with a Klima cane-pruning machine. The canes are wrapped in an arched configuration, although we do one single wrap at the top of each arch which helps anchor the vines when running the Klima machine over them the following winter. We wrap 2 x 12-bud canes and retain two replacement spurs. This gives us 28 buds per vine. This is a very sustainable pruning system on this site which we are able to employ year-in, year-out with much modification. Our biggest concern at this site is powdery mildew, however this is generally not difficult to keep at bay with this variety. There are no radical changes planned in how we manage the Tempranillo at Banksdale. We are very happy with the consistency of quality from the site, and the vines have a very stable and sustainable growth habit. The Tempranillo at the Banksdale site yields an average of 9t/ha. However at our Heathcote vineyard we only average 7t/ ha from the Tempranillo.

including some open top fermenters in the Kindergarten (experimental) winery were used. The fruit spent five to seven days on skins at 20-25°C, with the BDX or EC1118 yeast strains predominantly used. Concerto (a mixture of wild yeast strains) was used for one parcel to add complexity. The wine was then held in stainless steel for 12 months with minimal oak contact. Vegecoll (a vegan-friendly fining agent) was used prior to sterile filtration at bottling. The wine is for immediate consumption or short-term cellaring only. Over time the winemaking process for this wine has included less oak. This has been based on producing a ‘drink now’ style Tempranillo.

MARKETING The Tempranillo is made as a drink now style as part of our 18EN range which has a target price point of under $20. They style works well with Spanish foods and tapas (as in its homeland) but is also great with Australian BBQ food and light summer dishes such as a lamb salad. The wine is currently available in Dan Murphy’s outlets nationally and in independent stores. It is also available online via Brown Brothers website. The label was refreshed in 2015 with the inclusion of the donkey and red and yellow illustrations. This is a play on the Spanish heritage of the variety and is designed to help the wine stand out on a shelf in the off-premise market. This wine is targeted at the 25-45 year old age bracket who are willing to try different varieties other than a typical Shiraz or Cabernet Sauvignon.

WINEMAKING Some parcels of fruit were crushed and destemmed, some parcels were destemmed only and some parcels cold soaked prior to fermentation. Stainless steel fermenters,

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Balancing tannin and acid a key to good Tempranillo The Wine & Viticulture Journal last tasted Australian Tempranillo in 2010. Back then, we asked Scott Wasley of The Spanish Acquisition, a specialist importer of Spanish and Portuguese wines based in Victoria, to share his insight into Australian-made examples of the wine. He noted many presented as “generic, dry red table wine” and much of it was over-oaked. “Delicious, stylish, balanced and varietal results are the minor case,” he said. Our latest tasting provided a snapshot of how much has changed in seven years.

hirty-four Tempranillo and Tempranillo-dominant blends – including two made by an Australian winemaker from Spanish fruit - were submitted for this issue’s tasting. Making up the tasting panel were Yalumba winemaker Sam Wigan, Tash Mooney of The Wine Architect and La Bise, and Riley Harrison from Samuel’s Gorge in McLaren Vale. Wigan said the wines that stood out the most were those that respected the natural balance of acid and tannin in Tempranillo. “Tempranillo does sit a bit higher in the pH range compared with the varieties were are used to here in Australia like Cabernet, Shiraz and Merlot,” Wigan said. “Tempranillo takes a lot of potassium out of soil so you often end up with pHs in juice coming in at 4 and above. If you try and pull that back to, say, 3.5 or 3.6, you will really skew the pH and TA balance right out. The balance between acid and tannin is integral in every variety but especially in Tempranillo. Higher pHs Top 15 producers of Tempranillo in Australia by planting area. Source: 2015 ABS Vineyard Survey Region

Hectares

Murray Darling, NSW

87.33

Barossa Valley, SA

76.63

McLaren Vale, SA

68.57

Riverina, NSW

68.5

Hunter Valley, NSW

54.83

Riverland, SA

53.23

Adelaide Hills, SA

38.91

Clare Valley, SA

35.1

Murray Darling, Vic.

25.12

King Valley, Vic.

22.44

Heathcote, Vic.

21.69

Hilltops, NSW

17.58

Great Southern, WA

14.46

Geographe, WA

12.31

Margaret River, WA

11.44

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The panellists for our Tempranillo tasting were (from left) Riley Harrison, winemaker for Samuel’s Gorge; Tash Mooney, of the Wine Architect and La Bise Wines; and Sam Wigan, winemaker for Yalumba. will eventually soften out and make the tannins more powdery.” Wigan said a few of the wines were a little “heavy handed” with oak, with those wines seemingly aimed at delivering “a more generic dry red” rather than a varietal Tempranillo. “There were some really nice wines [in the tasting]. The Joven styles that are currently two years old and have minimal oak are probably what we’re doing best in Australia at the moment. They’re ripe, juicy, and have drinkability and versatility which I think is what people are searching for in a red variety. A few of them were a bit faulty or a bit too advanced but overall I think the tasting showed we have a good future with Tempranillo,” Wigan concluded. Tash Mooney agreed the Joven style Tempranillos in the tasting had impressed her the most, with the majority exhibiting subtle oak influence. “There’s a tenacity about the way the tannin, acid and fruit in Tempranillo pull together. Some of the producers got that really right which was good to see. “Tempranillo is so different to other

varieties in the way in which the tannin and acid interact and due to the fact you have to play in higher pHs yet still keep the tension going on between it and the tannin. It’s a massive variety for tannin so you really have to manage that. It’s easy to overshoot it,” Mooney said. Riley Harrison said the majority of the Joven style Tempranillos in the tasting showed great brightness and freshness, adding site could play a key role in achieving the ideal balance of acid and tannin. “A lot of Tempranillo was planted in Australia very quickly, sometimes without enough consideration given to site. I find that heavy soils lead to over-vigorous vines which can get rid of Tempranillo’s acidity quite quickly, so you don’t get that same ripeness of tannin. As we hone in on the better sites, we’ll find out where it grows best – it’s not like a Shiraz that will grow anywhere,” Harrison said. The tasting panellists’ top three wines of the tasting were the Moppity Vineyards 2015 Cato Tempranillo, Briar Ridge 2016 Limited Release Hilltops Tempranillo and Browner Brothers 2015 18EN Tempranillo. WVJ

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TASTING NOTES

MOPPITY VINEYARDS 2015 CATO TEMPRANILLO Hilltops, New South Wales 14.0%v/v – screwcap RRP$35.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo) Best of tasting: Deep red in colour with bright red hues. Nose is somewhat restrained with characters of plums, jubes, herbs, cherry cola, nutmeg and pepper. Good core of cherry fruit on the palate which also features chocolate, liquorice and jube characters. Fruit is bright and dances with the even, sandy tannins to give the wine length and freshness.

BRIAR RIDGE 2016 LIMITED RELEASE HILLTOPS TEMPRANILLO Hunter Valley, New South Wales 13.7%v/v – screwcap RRP$35.00/bottle (87.8% Tempranillo, 12.2% Shiraz) Best of tasting: Medium to dark red in colour with red/purple hues. Satsuma plum, dark cherry and cola on the nose complemented with a floral lift of dried flowers and a slight cedar note. Juicy fruit in the red spectrum and chocolate on the palate. Big crunchy tannins and a powdery finish closes out the palate well. Nice length and grip.

BROWN BROTHERS 2015 18EN TEMPRANILLO Rutherglen, Victoria 14.5%v/v – screwcap RRP$18.90/bottle (95% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano) Best of tasting: Bright garnet in colour. Lovely aromatics on the foxy nose, including red fruits, rhubarb, boiled lollies/jubes, eucalyptus, nettles and cassis. A red fruit profile drives the palate which is kept fresh and lively by a purposeful line of acidity; rhubarb also apparent. “A bright and crunchy wine,” noted one taster. “Pull of alcohol, fruit and tannins is really good; moreish,” noted another.

ANGOVE 2016 ALTERNATUS TEMPRANILLO McLaren Vale, South Australia 13.0%v/v/ - screwcap RRP$23.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo) Medium pale red with red hues. Brightfruited, brooding nose of blueberries, dark cherries, chocolate, ironstone, cherry cola and a slight varietal cedar note. Nice core of cherry fruit on the palate. Acid is a touch high which makes the tannins a little lean and sappy. “Good example of varietal structure,” noted one taster.

PEPPER TREE 2016 LIMITED RELEASE WRATTONBULLY TEMPRANILLO Hunter Valley, New South Wales 14.4%v/v – screwcap RRP$25.00/bottle (94.1% Tempranillo, 5.9% Shiraz) Medium red in colour with vivid red hues. Violet, herbal, and cassis notes on the nose with lots of primary red fruit; touch of eucalyptus. Bright, juicy fruit on the palate which has fine-boned tannins and a pomegranate tartness. Unyielding green acid masks the fruit.

RUNNING WITH BULLS 2016 TEMPRANILLO Barossa Valley, South Australia 13.5%v/v – screwcap RRP$23.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo) Medium to dark red in colour with slight brown hues. Aromas of violets, lavender and dark berries including black cherries and blueberries, a hint of liquorice allsorts and a slight ‘skinsy’ element. A silky palate that is driven by its structure and subtlety; characters of dark chocolate, black olives, sweet ripe fruit, and blackcurrants evident. Powdery finish.

Tempranillo tasting V3 2N 2

W I N E & VITICULTUR E JO UR NA L MARC H /APRIL 2017

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TASTING NOTES

919 WINES 2015 RESERVE TEMPRANILLO Riverland, South Australia 15.0%v/v – screwcap RRP$42.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo) Deep red in colour with slight brick red hues. Vanilla bean, chocolate, cola and cedar characters sit high on the nose, with blue fruits evident underneath. Big palate characterised mainly by lifted blue fruits which are carried by a bright acidity that assists in balancing the prominent oak tannins. “Varietal characters missing,” noted one taster about the palate.

ANGULLONG 2015 FOSSIL HILL TEMPRANILLO Orange, New South Wales 13.0%v/v – screwcap RRP$26.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo) Slightly dull colour of deep red with brick red/blue hues. Complex nose of leather and cedar with cherry fruits, blueberries and herbs sitting underneath. Palate is soft and supple and slightly developed; tannins spread across the palate. “Excellent example of how a Tempranillo should be structured,” noted one taster. “Lacking balance and depth of fruit,” said another.

FARMER & THE SCIENTIST 2015 TEMPRANILLO Heathcote, New South Wales 14.5%v/v – screwcap RRP$25.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo) Vibrant medium-red to deep-red in colour. Tomato leaf, red berries and plums on the low intensity nose. Quite a soft entry onto the palate where the wine exhibits silky red fruits; mid-palate is tart and lacks weight while the back palate is high in acid. Nice chalky tannins. “Lacking identity and completeness,” noted one taster.

GIBSON WINE 2015 DISCOVERY ROAD TEMPRANILLO Barossa Valley, South Australia 12.9%v/v – screwcap RRP$20.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo) Dark red in colour with brown hues. Somewhat syrupy and tawny aromas on the nose as well as vanillin. Palate is dominated by stewed blueberries with the back palate clipped by acid and green tannins.

HENSCHKE 2015 STONE JAR TEMPRANILLO Barossa Valley, South Australia 12.5%v/v – screwcap RRP$24.00/bottle (91% Tempranillo, 7% Mataro, 2% Graciano) Medium red in colour with bright red hues. Vibrant and bright nose of blueberries, dark cherries, cassis, vanilla, and cinnamon. “Good complexity; classy,” noted one taster. Lively palate although fruit weight is lacking and driven by fineboned tannins. Nice acid.

JAESCHKES HILL RIVER 2015 CLARE ESTATE TEMPRANILLO King Valley, Victoria 13.5%v/v – screwcap RRP$25.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo) Brick red in colour with an orange/brown rim. A ‘skinsy’ VA character dominates the nose, robbing it of fruit; sour cherry, beetroot and mushroom notes discernible. Quite tight acid on the soft yet somewhat developed and sweetsour palate.

TRIFON ESTATE 2015 HUMBLE VINE SELECTED RESERVE TEMPRANILLO Central Victoria 14.3%v/v – cork RRP$29.00/bottle (85.1% Tempranillo, 9.4% Shiraz, 5.5% Petiti Verdot) Bright garnet in colour with crimson hues. Nose features spearmint, oak spice, plums, ground coriander, blueberry crumble and charry oak with sweet, ripe cherries underneath. Bright and bouncy fruit on the palate, including blueberries. Quite lively acid. Plush and long tannins. “Acid a little prickly,” noted one taster.

Tempranillo tasting 70

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TASTING NOTES

HUNGERFORD HILL 2015 TUMBARUMBA TEMPRANILLO Tumbarumba, New South Wales 13.5%v/v – screwcap RRP$36.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo) Deep red in colour with red hues. Nice aromatics featuring dark fruits, including plums and dark cherries, red apple skin, and dried herbs. A bright core of fruit on the palate which is a touch lean in weight and finishes slightly short. Acid a touch sharp.

V3 2N 2

LA BISE 2015 TEMPRANILLO Adelaide Hills, South Australia 13.2%v/v – screwcap RRP$25.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo) Light to medium red in colour with red/blue hues. Somewhat syrupy nose of blueberries, boysenberries, caramel, chocolate and a slight honey character. Soft palate with a nice acid balance but too advanced for a 2015. Fruit is short. Nice sweet tannin. “Like the palate but the aromatics don’t give much,” noted one taster. “Short and simple,” noted another.

LOGAN WINES 2015 WEEMALA TEMPRANILLO

LOS ENOLOZ 2015 JOVEN TEMPRANILLO

MEEHAN VINEYARD 2015 TEMPRANILLO

MONTALTO 2015 PENNON HILL TEMPRANILLO

Mudgee, New South Wales 13.5%v/v – screwcap RRP$20.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo)

Spain 14.25%v/v – screwcap RRP$19.90/bottle (100% Tempranillo)

Heathcote, Victoria 14.5%v/v – screwcap RRP$28.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo)

Dark red in colour with crimson hues. Aromas of plums, chocolate, raspberry liqueur and florals. One taster thought the nose had a character reminiscent of a necklace made of confectionery. Varietal characters not obvious on the palate, which is somewhat drying yet is long and silky. Chocolatey tannins.

A nice colour of medium to deep red with a purple rim. A fresh and complex nose of cinnamon, spice, raspberries, boysenberries, plums and dark cherries with some herbal notes. A wellweighted palate with loads of tannin but still in check. Nice acidity – although one taster thought it was slightly prickly - with a chalky finish.

Mornington Peninsula, Victoria 13.5%v/v - screwcap RRP$32.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo)

Bright deep red in colour. Red apples, strawberries, blackberries and chocolate on the nose; hint of VA. Palate is dried out and lacks fruit drive; red currants and cocoa powder characters evident.

Editor’s note: Made by Australian-based producer Maria de Una, from Best of Spain, from fruit grown on the slopes of the Duero River in Spain.

W I N E & VITICULTUR E JO UR NA L MARC H /APRIL 2017

Brick red in colour with red/ blue hues. Nose features characters of lavender, dark fruits, blue fruits, black olives, tomato leaf and cinnamon. Nice core of plush dark fruits on the palate, which is soft and silky. Nice long finish with chalky tannins; acid a touch high; back palate somewhat dry. A bit developed for its age. One taster felt the nose and palate displayed a shaded fruit character.

MOPPITY VINEYARDS 2015 LOCK & KEY TEMPRANILLO Hilltops, New South Wales 14.0%v/v – screwcap RRP$30.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo) Deep crimson in colour. A slight mustiness is apparent on the nose along with dark berries, blue fruits and oak. The palate features nice mouthfilling tannins and chocolate and cedar characters but is oak dominant and lacks fruit weight and freshness of fruit. Varietal characters are not obvious in this wine.

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TASTING NOTES

PAWN WINE CO 2015 EN PASSANT TEMPRANILLO Adelaide Hills, South Australia 14.5%v/v – screwcap RRP$24.00/bottle (95% Tempranillo, 5% Montepulciano) Medium red in colour with brick red hues. A blue fruit aroma profile sits above some subtle eucalyptus notes; vanilla and creamy oak also apparent. Palate has nice balance and flow where the fruit persists due to the accompaniment of fine, chewy tannins; creamy vanilla oak flavour also evident. Slightly sappy finish.

TIM GRAMP 2015 CLARE VALLEY WATERVALE BASKETPRESS TEMPRANILLO Clare Valley, South Australia 14.5%v/v – screwcap RRP$21.50/bottle (100% Tempranillo) Intense, deep brick red in colour. Characters of stewed plums, blackberry jam, blueberry crumble and rum and raisin on the nose. Big, round and plush palate with brooding dark fruit; fruit profile is developed and reliant on barrelaged characters for complexity.

TRAVIARTI 2015 TEMPRANILLO Beechworth, Victoria 13.8%v/v - screwcap RRP$35.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo) Deep crimson red in colour with brick red hues. Boysenberry jam dominates the nose with underlying notes of dried flowers; some chocolate, blueberries, green herbs and liquorice all sort characters also present. Palate features chocolate and liquorice, tight acid and lean tannins. “The palate is lacking harmony between the fruit weight, tannins and acidity,” commented one taster.

TRIFON ESTATE 2015 FAMILY RESERVE TEMPRANILLO Central Victoria 14.3%v/v - screwcap RRP$29.00/bottle (85.1% Tempranillo, 9.4% Shiraz, 5.5% Petit Verdot) Bright dark red in colour with red hues. Blue fruits, black currant, cherry pie, pastille, mint and chocolate characters on the nose. Blueberries and dark cherries are the predominant fruit characters in the mouth; palate is lively with a combination of barrel and grape tannins; acidity sits uncomfortably with the tannin structure.

WAYWOOD 2015 TEMPRANILLO

MAYFORD 2015 TEMPRANILLO

McLaren Vale, South Australia 14.5%v/v - screwcap RRP$28.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo)

Alpine Valleys, Victoria 13.9%v/v - screwcap RRP$36.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo)

Intense deep red in colour. Aromas of red apple skin, ground coriander, dark fruits and charry oak; a cedar note characteristic of Tempranillo also evident. A big mouth with puckering tannins and loads of extract. “A massive wine with few if any Tempranillo characters,” noted one taster. “Needs five to 10 years,” said another.

Dark red in colour with youthful hues. Nose has characters of purple fruits, dried leaves and cinnamon; an earthiness and nuttiness also apparent. Nice sweet fruits on the palate together with chocolate, pomegranate and blackberries; palate lacks some freshness and is somewhat drying. Nice chalky acidity before being overcome by dusty, gravelly tannins.

LOS ENOLOZ 2014 RESERVA TEMPRANILLO Spain 14.85%v/v – screwcap RRP$39.50/bottle (100% Tempranillo) A vivid colour of deep crimson. Mulberry, blackberry and raspberry characters on the nose. Spadeloads of juicy bright fruits on the palate which are cordiallike. Nice drying tannins but the bright acidity is a little too much for the wine. Editor’s note: Made by Australian-based producer Maria de Una, from Best of Spain, from fruit grown on the slopes of the Duero River in Spain.

Tempranillo tasting 72

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TASTING NOTES

DOC ADAMS 2013 TEMPRANILLO McLaren Vale, South Australia 14.4%v/v - screwcap RRP$25.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo) Medium red in colour with brown hues. Beetroot, herb, buttered toast, blackcurrant leaf and stalky characters on the nose. Sweet and sour note to the palate where the fruit is all but gone. Tight acid but lacks brightness.

V3 2N 2

WAYWOOD 2013 TEMPRANILLO McLaren Vale, South Australia 13.9% v/v - screwcap RRP$28.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo) Brick red in colour with brown edges. Aromas of leather, herbs, clove and horse sweat on the nose; all three tasters noted a Brett character. Palate is dried out and lacks fruit.

HIDDEN CREEK 2012 TEMPRANILLO

WAYWOOD 2012 THE YEARS ’98 TEMPRANILLO

Granite Belt, Queensland 13.3%v/v – screwcap RRP$30.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo)

McLaren Vale, South Australia 14.9%v/v – cork RRP$50.00/bottle (100% Tempranillo)

Medium red in colour with red/blue hues. Savoury, cigar box, red apple and dried herb characters on the nose as well as a touch of aldehyde. Silky tannins and a nice savouriness on the palate. Generosity of fruit is restrained by the tannins and tight acid, leading to the wine finishing short.

Deep brick red with brown hues. Aromas of chocolate, coffee, treacle, cola and cedary oak masks blue fruits nestled somewhere in the background. Sweet fruit and tannin on the palate which is dried out and has lots of extract.

BRIAR RIDGE 2016 ORANGE TEMPRANILLO SHIRAZ Hunter Valley, New South Wales 13.8%v/v – screwcap RRP$25.00/bottle (66.7% Tempranillo, 33.3% Shiraz) Deep purple in colour with vivid red hues. Nose is a bit primary and one-dimensional, featuring bright red fruits, violets, herbs, cassis and a eucalypt note. Bright, crunchy fruit on the palate including red fruits and rhubarb; tannins slightly sappy and acidity a little firm. “Good pull between fruit, acid and tannin,” noted one taster.

W I N E & VITICULTUR E JO UR NA L MARC H /APRIL 2017

BROWN BROTHERS 2015 LIMITED RELEASE TEMPRANILLO & GRACIANO Rutherglen, Victoria 14.5%v/v – screwcap RRP$22.00/bottle (74% Tempranillo, 26% Graciano) Vibrant crimson in colour with red hues. Aromas of bright red fruits, black cherries, chocolate, satsuma plums and red liquorice. Lively acidity and beautiful fine, sandy tannins on the bright palate where characters of plums and raspberries are apparent; alcohol cuts the palate short.

BREMERTON 2015 SPECIAL RELEASE TEMPRANILLO GRACIANO Langhorne Creek, South Australia 14.0%v/v – screwcap RRP$24.00/bottle (75% Tempranillo, 25% Graciano) Medium red in colour. Aromas in the darker fruit spectrum along with some cedar, dried herbs, aniseed and underlying black pepper; charry oak imparts a nice meaty edge. Good fruit weight on the bright palate which has well-integrated tannins; oak sweetness evident.

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PRODUCTS N E &WSERVICES S

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ltrafiltration is a new development in the field of wine fining, championed by a South Australian company intent on ensuring that technology and innovation continue to be at the centre of the modern Australian wine story. Together, VA Filtration and Memstar are national leaders in membrane filtration technology designed to remove unwanted phenolic compounds in wine, improving mouthfeel, texture and colour of the finished product. The removal of bitter tannins ensures that white wine has substantially improved aroma and freshness, and that red wine has the desired softness and fruit expression. The process is quick and cost effective, and significantly reduces the need for winemakers to invest in other invasive, remedial adjustments to improve their wine during post-production. Matthew Hooper, managing director of parent company VA Filtration and its sister company Memstar, said: “Everything we work on is designed to improve the consumers’ experience of any given wine. In all instances, the technology or innovation applied is always with a clear consumer benefit in mind.” Since 2004, VA Filtration and Memstar have been providing winemakers

An ultrafiltration unit designed to improve mouthfeel and removal bitterness from red wine. around the world with a unique, singlepass treatment process to remove the musty, corky, mushroom aromas of TCA (2,4,6 Trichloroanisole) and TBA (2,4,6 Tribomoanisole) from wine. This latest development adds further opportunity for

A VA Filtration operator setting up a mobile taint removal unit.

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the ultimate goal of consistent, fault-free, ‘clean’ wine. Anything from a single barrel to thousands of litres can be processed at a time, and the gentle nature of the respective proprietary technologies ensures the wines’ intrinsic quality is untouched, whilst the fault removal is thorough and effective. “The intention is not to interfere with the winemaking craft, but rather to improve the chances of the winemaker being able to deliver the result that he or she originally intended,” Hooper continued. “Ultimately, all winemaking endeavour is subject to the uncertainties of nature, weather and seasons, and VA Filtration and Memstar are committed to developing solutions that support the winemaker, and, above all, help to deliver a better wine experience for the consumer,” he said.. For further advice and more information on VA Filtration and Memstar proprietary products and services visit www.vafiltration.com.au or www.memstar. com.au. WVJ

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