Esparza fall1200 sp

I ssue # 1

socalmagazine

...to the wildly curious.

EARLY AUTOMATA The

“karakuri ningyou” and Hisashige Tanaka

PANACIA’S DAUGHTERS Noblewomen as Healers in Early Modern Germany

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HOMEMADE TONIC WATER FOR THE ULTIMATE GIN & TONIC

THE FUR CARAVAN A fashion adventure by Richard Avedon

!

THUS a poem



by Charles Simic

December 2013 / $15 US $16 CAN / £12.99

Romina Ressia Photography www.rominaressia.com 2

Table of Contents

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Letter from the Editor (4) Agenda: epicuria: HUMMINGBIRD TOAST (7) libation: HOMEMADE TONIC WATER FOR THE ULTIMATE GIN & TONIC (9)

the 5th floor: Windows Into the Surreal: FIDM’S 5th Floor Celebrates the Surreal Work of Elsa Schiaparelli (10)

Shop: Winter treasures for both host & hostess (11-12) Panaceia’s Daughters: Noblewomen as Healers in Early Modern Germany (13-20) The Fur Caravan: A fashion adventure by Richard Avedon (21-24) The Last Page (25)

TABLE contents OF

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Masthead

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socalmagazine Editorial

Editor-in-Chief & CEO Bevelyn Esparza bevelyn@socalmagazine.com Editor & Creative Director Simon Roe simon@inventorymagazine.com Associate Editor Owen Parrott owen@inventorymagazine.com Editor-at-Large Philip Watts philip@inventorymagazine.com Art & Design Director Anthony Hooper anthony@inventorymagazine.com Contributors WRITERS Amra Brooks, Jim Christensen, Adam Cimino, Leanne Cloudsdale, Matthias Connor, Jake Davis, James Dowling, Jeff Downs, Terry Ellis, Kristoffer Dahy Ernst, David Hellqvist, Jason Jules, Takamasa Kikuchi Matt Langille, Tyler Madden, Rick Moe, Andrew Post, Farhad Samari, C.R. Stecyk III, Amelia Stein, Paul Trynka, Olly Todd, Gary Warnett STYLISTS Angelo Baque, Natasha Devereux, Craig Ford, Stephen Mann, Fumihiko Okabe, Gabriel Trivelas, Angelo Urrutia, Yohei Usami, Tyler Wray ILLUSTRATORS Marian Churchland, Nicholas Hutchinson, Paddy Jones, Mark Long Marcus Oakley, Patrick Long, Wayne Pate, Yuko Saeki, Russ Willms WEB DEVELOPMENT Stuart Hobday PHOTOGRAPHERS Ana Armendariz, Jeb Allred, Joachim Baan, Neil Bedford, Adrià Cañameras, Quentin de Briey, Michelle Ford, Keisuke Fukamizu, James Giles, Marcelo Gomes, Julia Grassi, Ben Grieme, Nicholas Haggard, Osma Harvilahti, Jinjoo Hwang, Nobi Kashiwagi, Yosuke Kimura, Maria Laub, Bernard Lykes, Phillip Maisel, Jennilee Marigomen, Brendan Meadows, Taro Mizutani, Ye Rin Mok, Sarah Soquel Morhaim, Katsu Naito, Teiichi Ogata, Rory Payne, James Pearson-Howes, Ben Pier, Dave Potes, Ted Power, Rick Pushinsky, Rafael Rios, Jody Rogac, Jason Frank Rothenberg, Megumi Sakaguchi, Farhad Samari, Masahiro Sanbe, Scott A. Sant’Angelo, Michael Sterner, Mark Stone, Arata Suzuki, Chris Taylor, Ken Tisuthiwongse, Vincent Tsang, Aaron Wojack, Suzanna Zak, Bruno Zhu

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Editor's Letter

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/Letter from the Editor Dearest readers,

I

ntrepid explorers of our world’s deep well of curiosities, treasures, and secret nooks

and crannies...Socal Magazine decided to compile those places in here, in our little

compendium of sorts–the fuel to our vitals, our creative resource! (all to be carried along with you on the adventures of your own.)

Warm holiday wishes,

Bevelyn Es parza p.s. Long live the eggheads!

5

Black Jack Vol. 4

 Osamu Tezuka

“Black Jack is a dramatic, nearly Byronic figure… With genre-spanning stories–horror, sci-fi, romance–and Tezuka’s signature blend of drama, bathos and extreme broad comedy jammed together on every page, Black Jack is a wild but extravagantly entertaining ridthat’s far more accessible than the author’s novel-length epics.” –Publishers Weekly

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Epicuria Libation The 5th Floor -

Hummingbird Toast “A flash of harmless lightning, A mist of rainbow dyes, The burnished sunbeams brightening From flower to flower he flies.”

— John Banister Tabb

Ingredients: 1 slice of lentil toast 2 tbsp. of crunchy peanut butter 1 banana, sliced blenheim apricot jam ground cinnamon hemp hearts sunflower seeds, toasted

L

ayer ingredients on toast, to taste.

Enjoy with a steaming cup of bergamot earl grey tea. (serves 1)

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Homemade Tonic Water for the Ultimate Gin & Tonic “Beloved, we join hands here to pray for gin. An aridity defiles us. Our innards thirst for the juice of juniper. Something must be done. The drought threatens to destroy us. Surely, God who let manna fall from the heavens so that the holy children of Israel might eat, will not let the equally holy children of Niggeratti Manor die from the want of a little gin. Children, let us pray.”

— Wallace Thurman, Infants of the Spring

Ingredients: 3½ cups water ¼ cup (1 ounce) cinchona bark, powdered ¼ cup citric acid 3 limes, peeled zests only 3 lemons, peeled zests only 2 oranges, peeled zests only 3 stalks lemongrass, chopped 4 whole allspice berries 3 whole cardamom pods 1 tablespoon lavender ¼ teaspoon kosher salt

Rich Simple Syrup: 2 cups natural cane sugar 1 cup water You’ll also need: Lime wedges Sparkling water

C

ombine all ingredients except rich simple syrup in a one-quart liddedglass jar. Shake to combine. Refrigerate 72 hours, shaking occasionally, at least once per day.

Make rich simple syrup: dissolve 2 cups sugar in 1 cup water over med. heat until sugar is completely dissolved. Allow to cool. Transfer to a container and refrigerate.

After 72 hours, strain tonic mixture into a large glass pitcher. Strain tonic a second time, using a coffee filter or very fine cheesecloth.

Whisk simple syrup into tonic until thoroughly combined. Pour tonic syrup through a funnel into storage bottles and store in the refrigerator.

For the Ultimate Gin & Tonic Fill a highball glass with ice. Add 1 tablespoon tonic syrup, 2 ounces gin, and 2 ounces sparkling water. Stir to combine. Serve with a lime wedge (about 1/6 of a fresh lime). To drink: squeeze the lime wedge into the drink, then drop it in and enjoy.

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8

Windows into the Surreal

“

FIDM’s 5th floor windows celebrate the surreal work of Elsa Schiaparelli

by Hamish Bowles

Madder and more

peers as a true nonconformist,

modeled by Madame Crespi in

traced to the faux-bow sweater

original than most of her

using clothing as a medium to

Vogue—had a stiff overskirt of

that kick-started Schiaparelli’s

contemporaries, Mme

express her unique ideas. In

Rhodophane (a transparent,

career and brought her quirky

Schiaparelli is the one to whom

the thirties, her peak creative

glasslike modern material); a

style to the masses.

the word ‘genius’ is applied most

period, her salon overflowed

smart black suit jacket had red

“Dare to be different,” is the

often,” Time magazine wrote of

with the wild, the whimsical,

lips for pockets. Handbags, in

advice she offered to women.

its cover subject in 1934.] Coco

and even the ridiculous. Many

the form of music boxes, tinkled

Pace-setters and rule-breakers

Chanel once dismissed her rival

of her madcap designs could be

tunes like “Rose Marie, I Love

waved that flag through the six-

as “that Italian artist who makes

pulled off only by a woman of

You”; others fastened with pad-

ties, the seventies, and beyond.

clothes.” (To Schiaparelli, Chanel

great substance and style: Gold

locks. Monkey fur and zippers

was simply “that milliner.”)

ruffles sprouted from the fingers

(newfangled in the thirties)

Indeed, Schiaparelli—“Schiap”

of chameleon-green suede gloves;

were everywhere.

to friends—stood out among her

a pale-blue satin evening gown—

Love of trompe l’oeil can be

9

Photo credits\ Portrait: Irving Penn Windows: photographed by Carlos Diaz

INTRODUCING OUR

SIGNATURE McSCRAPS.

11

Shop

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•

Winter treasures for both host & hostess

WHISKY STONES ® BEVERAGE CUBES Teraforma, set of 9 $20

•

KAHLER STORIA TEAPOT Kahler, $159.95

MINIATURE BOOKS Bo Press, $36-$162

YUN AROMA DIFFUSER Puhzen, $369

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MY LIFE USB MEDALLION NECKLACES Urban Butik, $70

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TIPPING TEACUP Magisso, $20

HUMAN ANIMAL BISCUIT COLLECTION La Bôite, flavor selection: Apple, Chestnut, Coco, Dekel & Rosa $65

CHELSEA MILLER KNIVES $350-$512

BOOKBINDER FORGED SCISSORS $22

•

JAPANESE SEED BEAD CROCHET NECKLACE Svetlana Golgova $88.35

•

12

cover story

over story

:

by Alisha Rankin

14

Noblewomen as Healers in Early Modern Germany

P

anaceia’s Daugters

provides

networks of knowledge and early forms of

the first book-length study of

scientific experimentation. The opening

noblewomen’s healing activities

chapters place noblewomen’s healing within

in early modern Europe. Drawing on rich

the context of cultural exchange, experiential

archival sources, Alisha Rankin demonstrates

knowledge, and the widespread search for

that numerous German noblewomen were

medicinal recipes in early modern Europe.

deeply involved in making medicines and

Case studies of renowned healers Dorothea of

recommending them to patients, and many

Mansfeld and Anna of Saxony then demon-

gained widespread fame for their remedies.

strate the value their pharmacy held in their

Turning a common historical argument on its

respective roles as elderly widow and royal

head, Rankin maintains that noble- women’s

consort, while a studyof the long-suffering

pharmacy came to prominence not in spite of

Duchess Elisabeth of Rochlitz

their gender but because of it.

emphasizes the importance of experiential

knowledge and medicinal remedies to the

Rankin demonstrates the ways in

which noblewomen’s pharmacy was bound

patient’s experience of illness.

up in notions of charity, class, religion, and

household roles, as well as in expanding

Martin Luther, the Duke of Saxony, and

Dorothea was a widow who treated

14

“

...a beautifully crafted, solid, and imaginative piece of historical research, which sheds new light on the role of women in early modern medicine and on their participation in the early modern culture of experimentation and empiricism.

— Gianna Pomata, John Hopkins University ”

throngs of poor peasants with her medicinal

practices in early modern Germany, focusing

waters. Anna was the powerful wife of the

on elite women who spent much of their adult

Elector of Saxony who favored testing medical

lives devising and administering medicinal

remedies on others before using them on her

remedies. The book argues that noblewomen

friends and family. Elisabeth was an invalid

were celebrated as healers not despite their

patient whose preferred treatments included

gender, but because of it, offering a useful

topical remedies and minis- “...noblewomen were celebrated corrective to the historiogra-

15

trations from the “almighty

as healers not despite their

phy of gender and the sciences

physician,” but never “the

gender, but because of it...”

in early modernity.

smear.” We meet these three lively women in

the pages of Alisha Rankin’s wonderful new

studies within a careful exploration of some of

book on the medical practices of noblewomen

the main factors that enabled the kind of suc-

from the last decades of the sixteenth century.

cess that noblewomen-healers like Dorothea

of Mansfield and Anna of Saxony enjoyed in

Panaceia’s Daughters: Noblewomen

Rankin situates three in-depth case

as Healers in Early Modern Germany (Uni-

sixteenth-century Germany: more opportu-

versity of Chicago Press, 2013) considers the

nities for information exchange through local

intellectual and social contexts of healing

communities and wider epistolary networks;

cover stor

D u c h

cover story

e s s

Photo credit: Tim Walker featuring Kristen McMenamy

17

cover story

El i s

a b

over story

e

h

t

18

Do

ea

roth

A

n n e

19

an increasing focus on empirical knowledge

correc tive to the historiography of gender and

in its many forms; and the foundation role of

the sciences in early modernity.

written medicinal recipes as a form of kunst.

Rankin situates three in-depth case studies

It is a thoughtfully written and very clearly

within a careful exploration of some of the

argued work that informs many aspects of the

main factors that enabled the kind of success

history of gender, of science and medicine,

that noblewomen-healers like Dorothea of

and of practical epistemologies. Panaceia’s

Mansfield and Anna of Saxony enjoyed in six-

Daughters: Noblewomen as Healers in Early

teenth-century Germany: more opportunities

Modern Germany (University of

Chicago Press, 2013) considers

“...of gender and the for information exchange through sciences in early modernity.” local communities and wider epis

the intellectual and social contexts of healing

tolary networks; an increasing focus on em-

practices in early modern Germany, focusing

pirical knowledge as a form of kunst.

on elite women who spent much of their adult lives devising and administering medicinal remedies. The book argues that noblewomen were celebrated as healers not despite their gender, but because of it, offering a useful

19

cover stor

cover story

H

ea l e r 21

Avedon

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°

22

Avedon

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A

FASHION ADVENTURE STARRING THE GIRL IN THE FABULOUS FURS PHOTOGRAPHED IN THE STRANGE SECRET SNOW COUNTRY OF JAPAN . . .

BY RICHARD AVEDON

• Cast of Characters DICK, THE PHOTOGRAPHER..................RICHARD AVEDON VERUSHKA, THE GIRL...........COUNTESS VON LEHNDORFF POLLY, THE FASHION EDITOR..........MRS. HENRY MELLEN THE NARRATOR....................................................MARY EVANS Plus the hairdresser, the giant, and other friends encountered on the journey which took the crew to the fire-and-snow country of Northern Japan where mountains reach into the sky like knicked blades and slice the Siberian winds . . . not even the shores of the sea can shrug off the snow . . . hot springs boil in the tarnished streaming “Valley of Hell” and cypress trees pose like foxes, which in this country have a way of turning into women . . . The caravan moves . . .

(Story next page)

(from the cliffs of Tojimbo, on the Japan Sea, Verushka shouts a warning, or a challenge—evoking the Mongol invasions of the thirteenth century, when Kublai Khan sent a mighty sea-borne landing force to the Japanese coast. Fortunately, all the ships sank—but it appears, from these pages, that some of the tribemen’s great savage furs got ashore . . . )

22

Avedon

â– (Verushka and the giant posed on the mountainsides. striding through the drifts, resting on the billows of snow. It was so cold the giant even agree to put straw boots on his bare feet. Verushka could not be without her music. and a portable record player spun in the snow, giving our Perglosi in the pines. Though she never murmured, however her white face became with frost, in between shots we led her back to the hotel, her long legs stiff as stilts with the cold.)

•

23

Avedon

â–

25

THE LAST PAGE

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-Richard Adams, The Watership Down 26

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