I ssue # 1
socalmagazine
...to the wildly curious.
EARLY AUTOMATA The
“karakuri ningyou” and Hisashige Tanaka
PANACIA’S DAUGHTERS Noblewomen as Healers in Early Modern Germany
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HOMEMADE TONIC WATER FOR THE ULTIMATE GIN & TONIC
THE FUR CARAVAN A fashion adventure by Richard Avedon
!
THUS a poem
by Charles Simic
December 2013 / $15 US $16 CAN / £12.99
Romina Ressia Photography www.rominaressia.com 2
Table of Contents
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Letter from the Editor (4) Agenda: epicuria: HUMMINGBIRD TOAST (7) libation: HOMEMADE TONIC WATER FOR THE ULTIMATE GIN & TONIC (9)
the 5th floor: Windows Into the Surreal: FIDM’S 5th Floor Celebrates the Surreal Work of Elsa Schiaparelli (10)
Shop: Winter treasures for both host & hostess (11-12) Panaceia’s Daughters: Noblewomen as Healers in Early Modern Germany (13-20) The Fur Caravan: A fashion adventure by Richard Avedon (21-24) The Last Page (25)
TABLE contents OF
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Masthead
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socalmagazine Editorial
Editor-in-Chief & CEO Bevelyn Esparza bevelyn@socalmagazine.com Editor & Creative Director Simon Roe simon@inventorymagazine.com Associate Editor Owen Parrott owen@inventorymagazine.com Editor-at-Large Philip Watts philip@inventorymagazine.com Art & Design Director Anthony Hooper anthony@inventorymagazine.com Contributors WRITERS Amra Brooks, Jim Christensen, Adam Cimino, Leanne Cloudsdale, Matthias Connor, Jake Davis, James Dowling, Jeff Downs, Terry Ellis, Kristoffer Dahy Ernst, David Hellqvist, Jason Jules, Takamasa Kikuchi Matt Langille, Tyler Madden, Rick Moe, Andrew Post, Farhad Samari, C.R. Stecyk III, Amelia Stein, Paul Trynka, Olly Todd, Gary Warnett STYLISTS Angelo Baque, Natasha Devereux, Craig Ford, Stephen Mann, Fumihiko Okabe, Gabriel Trivelas, Angelo Urrutia, Yohei Usami, Tyler Wray ILLUSTRATORS Marian Churchland, Nicholas Hutchinson, Paddy Jones, Mark Long Marcus Oakley, Patrick Long, Wayne Pate, Yuko Saeki, Russ Willms WEB DEVELOPMENT Stuart Hobday PHOTOGRAPHERS Ana Armendariz, Jeb Allred, Joachim Baan, Neil Bedford, Adrià Cañameras, Quentin de Briey, Michelle Ford, Keisuke Fukamizu, James Giles, Marcelo Gomes, Julia Grassi, Ben Grieme, Nicholas Haggard, Osma Harvilahti, Jinjoo Hwang, Nobi Kashiwagi, Yosuke Kimura, Maria Laub, Bernard Lykes, Phillip Maisel, Jennilee Marigomen, Brendan Meadows, Taro Mizutani, Ye Rin Mok, Sarah Soquel Morhaim, Katsu Naito, Teiichi Ogata, Rory Payne, James Pearson-Howes, Ben Pier, Dave Potes, Ted Power, Rick Pushinsky, Rafael Rios, Jody Rogac, Jason Frank Rothenberg, Megumi Sakaguchi, Farhad Samari, Masahiro Sanbe, Scott A. Sant’Angelo, Michael Sterner, Mark Stone, Arata Suzuki, Chris Taylor, Ken Tisuthiwongse, Vincent Tsang, Aaron Wojack, Suzanna Zak, Bruno Zhu
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Editor's Letter
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/Letter from the Editor Dearest readers,
I
ntrepid explorers of our world’s deep well of curiosities, treasures, and secret nooks
and crannies...Socal Magazine decided to compile those places in here, in our little
compendium of sorts–the fuel to our vitals, our creative resource! (all to be carried along with you on the adventures of your own.)
Warm holiday wishes,
Bevelyn Es parza p.s. Long live the eggheads!
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Black Jack Vol. 4
Osamu Tezuka
“Black Jack is a dramatic, nearly Byronic figure… With genre-spanning stories–horror, sci-fi, romance–and Tezuka’s signature blend of drama, bathos and extreme broad comedy jammed together on every page, Black Jack is a wild but extravagantly entertaining ridthat’s far more accessible than the author’s novel-length epics.” –Publishers Weekly
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Epicuria Libation The 5th Floor -
Hummingbird Toast “A flash of harmless lightning, A mist of rainbow dyes, The burnished sunbeams brightening From flower to flower he flies.” — John Banister Tabb
Ingredients: 1 slice of lentil toast 2 tbsp. of crunchy peanut butter 1 banana, sliced blenheim apricot jam ground cinnamon hemp hearts sunflower seeds, toasted
L
ayer ingredients on toast, to taste. Enjoy with a steaming cup of bergamot earl grey tea. (serves 1)
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Homemade Tonic Water for the Ultimate Gin & Tonic “Beloved, we join hands here to pray for gin. An aridity defiles us. Our innards thirst for the juice of juniper. Something must be done. The drought threatens to destroy us. Surely, God who let manna fall from the heavens so that the holy children of Israel might eat, will not let the equally holy children of Niggeratti Manor die from the want of a little gin. Children, let us pray.” — Wallace Thurman, Infants of the Spring
Ingredients: 3½ cups water ¼ cup (1 ounce) cinchona bark, powdered ¼ cup citric acid 3 limes, peeled zests only 3 lemons, peeled zests only 2 oranges, peeled zests only 3 stalks lemongrass, chopped 4 whole allspice berries 3 whole cardamom pods 1 tablespoon lavender ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
Rich Simple Syrup: 2 cups natural cane sugar 1 cup water You’ll also need: Lime wedges Sparkling water
C
ombine all ingredients except rich simple syrup in a one-quart liddedglass jar. Shake to combine. Refrigerate 72 hours, shaking occasionally, at least once per day. Make rich simple syrup: dissolve 2 cups sugar in 1 cup water over med. heat until sugar is completely dissolved. Allow to cool. Transfer to a container and refrigerate. After 72 hours, strain tonic mixture into a large glass pitcher. Strain tonic a second time, using a coffee filter or very fine cheesecloth. Whisk simple syrup into tonic until thoroughly combined. Pour tonic syrup through a funnel into storage bottles and store in the refrigerator. For the Ultimate Gin & Tonic Fill a highball glass with ice. Add 1 tablespoon tonic syrup, 2 ounces gin, and 2 ounces sparkling water. Stir to combine. Serve with a lime wedge (about 1/6 of a fresh lime). To drink: squeeze the lime wedge into the drink, then drop it in and enjoy.
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8
Windows into the Surreal
“
FIDM’s 5th floor windows celebrate the surreal work of Elsa Schiaparelli by Hamish Bowles
Madder and more
peers as a true nonconformist,
modeled by Madame Crespi in
traced to the faux-bow sweater
original than most of her
using clothing as a medium to
Vogue—had a stiff overskirt of
that kick-started Schiaparelli’s
contemporaries, Mme
express her unique ideas. In
Rhodophane (a transparent,
career and brought her quirky
Schiaparelli is the one to whom
the thirties, her peak creative
glasslike modern material); a
style to the masses.
the word ‘genius’ is applied most
period, her salon overflowed
smart black suit jacket had red
“Dare to be different,” is the
often,” Time magazine wrote of
with the wild, the whimsical,
lips for pockets. Handbags, in
advice she offered to women.
its cover subject in 1934.] Coco
and even the ridiculous. Many
the form of music boxes, tinkled
Pace-setters and rule-breakers
Chanel once dismissed her rival
of her madcap designs could be
tunes like “Rose Marie, I Love
waved that flag through the six-
as “that Italian artist who makes
pulled off only by a woman of
You”; others fastened with pad-
ties, the seventies, and beyond.
clothes.” (To Schiaparelli, Chanel
great substance and style: Gold
locks. Monkey fur and zippers
was simply “that milliner.”)
ruffles sprouted from the fingers
(newfangled in the thirties)
Indeed, Schiaparelli—“Schiap”
of chameleon-green suede gloves;
were everywhere.
to friends—stood out among her
a pale-blue satin evening gown—
Love of trompe l’oeil can be
9
Photo credits\ Portrait: Irving Penn Windows: photographed by Carlos Diaz
INTRODUCING OUR
SIGNATURE McSCRAPS.
11
Shop
■
•
Winter treasures for both host & hostess
WHISKY STONES ® BEVERAGE CUBES Teraforma, set of 9 $20
•
KAHLER STORIA TEAPOT Kahler, $159.95
MINIATURE BOOKS Bo Press, $36-$162
YUN AROMA DIFFUSER Puhzen, $369
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•
MY LIFE USB MEDALLION NECKLACES Urban Butik, $70
•
TIPPING TEACUP Magisso, $20
HUMAN ANIMAL BISCUIT COLLECTION La Bôite, flavor selection: Apple, Chestnut, Coco, Dekel & Rosa $65
CHELSEA MILLER KNIVES $350-$512
BOOKBINDER FORGED SCISSORS $22
•
JAPANESE SEED BEAD CROCHET NECKLACE Svetlana Golgova $88.35
•
12
cover story
over story
:
by Alisha Rankin
14
Noblewomen as Healers in Early Modern Germany
P
anaceia’s Daugters
provides
networks of knowledge and early forms of
the first book-length study of
scientific experimentation. The opening
noblewomen’s healing activities
chapters place noblewomen’s healing within
in early modern Europe. Drawing on rich
the context of cultural exchange, experiential
archival sources, Alisha Rankin demonstrates
knowledge, and the widespread search for
that numerous German noblewomen were
medicinal recipes in early modern Europe.
deeply involved in making medicines and
Case studies of renowned healers Dorothea of
recommending them to patients, and many
Mansfeld and Anna of Saxony then demon-
gained widespread fame for their remedies.
strate the value their pharmacy held in their
Turning a common historical argument on its
respective roles as elderly widow and royal
head, Rankin maintains that noble- women’s
consort, while a studyof the long-suffering
pharmacy came to prominence not in spite of
Duchess Elisabeth of Rochlitz
their gender but because of it.
emphasizes the importance of experiential
knowledge and medicinal remedies to the
Rankin demonstrates the ways in
which noblewomen’s pharmacy was bound
patient’s experience of illness.
up in notions of charity, class, religion, and
household roles, as well as in expanding
Martin Luther, the Duke of Saxony, and
Dorothea was a widow who treated
14
“
...a beautifully crafted, solid, and imaginative piece of historical research, which sheds new light on the role of women in early modern medicine and on their participation in the early modern culture of experimentation and empiricism. — Gianna Pomata, John Hopkins University ”
throngs of poor peasants with her medicinal
practices in early modern Germany, focusing
waters. Anna was the powerful wife of the
on elite women who spent much of their adult
Elector of Saxony who favored testing medical
lives devising and administering medicinal
remedies on others before using them on her
remedies. The book argues that noblewomen
friends and family. Elisabeth was an invalid
were celebrated as healers not despite their
patient whose preferred treatments included
gender, but because of it, offering a useful
topical remedies and minis- “...noblewomen were celebrated corrective to the historiogra-
15
trations from the “almighty
as healers not despite their
phy of gender and the sciences
physician,” but never “the
gender, but because of it...”
in early modernity.
smear.” We meet these three lively women in
the pages of Alisha Rankin’s wonderful new
studies within a careful exploration of some of
book on the medical practices of noblewomen
the main factors that enabled the kind of suc-
from the last decades of the sixteenth century.
cess that noblewomen-healers like Dorothea
of Mansfield and Anna of Saxony enjoyed in
Panaceia’s Daughters: Noblewomen
Rankin situates three in-depth case
as Healers in Early Modern Germany (Uni-
sixteenth-century Germany: more opportu-
versity of Chicago Press, 2013) considers the
nities for information exchange through local
intellectual and social contexts of healing
communities and wider epistolary networks;
cover stor
D u c h
cover story
e s s
Photo credit: Tim Walker featuring Kristen McMenamy
17
cover story
El i s
a b
over story
e
h
t
18
Do
ea
roth
A
n n e
19
an increasing focus on empirical knowledge
correc tive to the historiography of gender and
in its many forms; and the foundation role of
the sciences in early modernity.
written medicinal recipes as a form of kunst.
Rankin situates three in-depth case studies
It is a thoughtfully written and very clearly
within a careful exploration of some of the
argued work that informs many aspects of the
main factors that enabled the kind of success
history of gender, of science and medicine,
that noblewomen-healers like Dorothea of
and of practical epistemologies. Panaceia’s
Mansfield and Anna of Saxony enjoyed in six-
Daughters: Noblewomen as Healers in Early
teenth-century Germany: more opportunities
Modern Germany (University of
Chicago Press, 2013) considers
“...of gender and the for information exchange through sciences in early modernity.” local communities and wider epis
the intellectual and social contexts of healing
tolary networks; an increasing focus on em-
practices in early modern Germany, focusing
pirical knowledge as a form of kunst.
on elite women who spent much of their adult lives devising and administering medicinal remedies. The book argues that noblewomen were celebrated as healers not despite their gender, but because of it, offering a useful
19
cover stor
cover story
H
ea l e r 21
Avedon
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°
22
Avedon
■
A
FASHION ADVENTURE STARRING THE GIRL IN THE FABULOUS FURS PHOTOGRAPHED IN THE STRANGE SECRET SNOW COUNTRY OF JAPAN . . . BY RICHARD AVEDON
• Cast of Characters DICK, THE PHOTOGRAPHER..................RICHARD AVEDON VERUSHKA, THE GIRL...........COUNTESS VON LEHNDORFF POLLY, THE FASHION EDITOR..........MRS. HENRY MELLEN THE NARRATOR....................................................MARY EVANS Plus the hairdresser, the giant, and other friends encountered on the journey which took the crew to the fire-and-snow country of Northern Japan where mountains reach into the sky like knicked blades and slice the Siberian winds . . . not even the shores of the sea can shrug off the snow . . . hot springs boil in the tarnished streaming “Valley of Hell” and cypress trees pose like foxes, which in this country have a way of turning into women . . . The caravan moves . . .
(Story next page)
(from the cliffs of Tojimbo, on the Japan Sea, Verushka shouts a warning, or a challenge—evoking the Mongol invasions of the thirteenth century, when Kublai Khan sent a mighty sea-borne landing force to the Japanese coast. Fortunately, all the ships sank—but it appears, from these pages, that some of the tribemen’s great savage furs got ashore . . . )
22
Avedon
â– (Verushka and the giant posed on the mountainsides. striding through the drifts, resting on the billows of snow. It was so cold the giant even agree to put straw boots on his bare feet. Verushka could not be without her music. and a portable record player spun in the snow, giving our Perglosi in the pines. Though she never murmured, however her white face became with frost, in between shots we led her back to the hotel, her long legs stiff as stilts with the cold.)
•
23
Avedon
â–
25
THE LAST PAGE
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“Human beings say, "It never rains but it pours." This is not very apt, for it frequently does rain without pouring. The rabbits' proverb is better expressed. They say, "One cloud feels lonely": and indeed it is true that the sky will soon be overcast.
”
-Richard Adams, The Watership Down 26
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