TABLE OF CONTENTS letter to the editor
Chocolate Covered Strawberries
Windows into the sureal
The Big Apple
The Gala
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Product Page
The List
Fenty Beauty
Masthead President and Publisher: Jeanel Madera Editorial Director: Ellen Rosenbush Managing Editor: Katherine Ryder Senior Editors: Katia Bachko, Christopher Carroll, Wes Enzinna, Rachel Poser Editor Emeritus: Lewis H. Lapham Art Director Kathryn Humphries Visuals Editor: Stacey Clarkson James Associate Editors: Elizabeth Bryant, Joe Kloc, Matthew Sherrill Assistant Editors: Will Augerot, Matthew Hickey, Adrian Kneubuhl, Stephanie McFeeters, Will Stephenson Editorial Interns: Clementine James Ford, Tess Michaelson, Hannah D. Smith Art Intern: Diane Kim Contributing Editors: Andrew J. Bacevich, Kevin Baker, Dan Baum, Tom Bissell, Joshua Cohen, John Crowley, Rivka Galchen, Gary Greenberg, Jack Hitt, Edward Hoagland, Scott Horton, Frederick Kaufman, Garret Keizer, Mark Kingwell, Walter Kirn, Rafil Kroll-Zaidi, Gideon Lewis-Kraus, Clancy Martin, Duncan Murrell, Vince Passaro, Francine Prose, Jeff Sharlet, Christine Smallwood, Zadie Smith, Rebecca Solnit, Matthew Stevenson, John Edgar Wideman Contributing Artists: Olive Ayhens, Lisa Elmaleh, Lena Herzog, Aaron Huey, Samuel James, Steve Mumford, Richard Ross, Tomas van Houtryve, Danijel ŽeŞelj Vice President and General Manager Lynn Carlson Assistant to the Publisher/Rights and Reprints Virginia L. Navarro Kim Lau, Senior Accountant Eve Brant, Office Manager Courtney Joyal, Marketing Assistant
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n fashion there is an unnatural world, though one equally transformative, and one that also runs on its own cycle of “birth and death, birth and death” fall is the most fecund time of year. And not just in the fashion world, but virtually every other creative world as well: art, theater, film and books. For these few months, we are either the watchers or the watched, and by the time the season’s finished, we are being challenged to see anew. A successful season in the culture is one that leaves you feeling one part giddy and one part “Beauty is when you can appreciate yourself. When you love yourself, that’s when you’re most beautiful “
uncomfortable. But of all the ways in which art and design test our understanding of the world, one of the most important is how they make us question what exactly beauty is. Great art and design remind us of two things: first, that what is beautiful is not necessarily what is pleasant or pretty; and second, that the search for beauty, in all its forms, is elemental to the human condition. Every person in every culture, no matter how impoverished or restrictive, tries to her life. This desire to stimulate the senses, to remind ourselves of the wildness of the imagination is not a luxury, but an instinct, one that defines us as human.
Jeanel Madera Jeanel Madera|Editor
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Chocolate Covered Strawberries THE ART OF FOOD
From the idea that people put straw around the base of the plant for both nutrients & protection, from the runners (vines) of the plant that “strew” (spread) about. Many people love strawberries because of their sweet taste and desirable smell and for centuries has been a favorite centerpiece or garnish if desserts & salads. Although both chocolate and strawberries have been around for a long time, it was
not until a woman named Lorraine Lorusso combined the two in the 1960s that the decadent chocolate covered strawberry was created. Lorraine worked at a small gourmet store called the Stop N’ Shop in Chicago. She took a tempered version of the gourmet chocolate served in the store and dipped the seasons’ freshest berries into the mixture. She allowed the chocolate to harden and then served
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them to paying customers. The treat was an instant success.Since then fruit and chocolate have been seen as the perfect pair. You can now find all types of fruit, both fresh and dried, covered in chocolate.them to paying customers. The treat was an instant success. Since then fruit and chocolate have been seen as the perfthem to paying customers. The treat was an instant success.Since then fruit and
FIDM’s 5th floor windows celebrate the surreal work of Elsa Schiaparelli
“Madderand more original than most of her contemporaries, Mme Schiaparelli is the one to whom the word ‘genius’ is applied most often,” Time magazine wrote of its cover subject in 1934.Coco Chanel once dismissed her rival as “that Italian artist who makes clothes.” (To Schiaparelli, Chanel was simply “that milliner.”) Indeed,Schiaparelli—“Schiap” to friends— stood out among her peers as a true nonconformist, using clothing as a medium to express her unique ideas. In the thirties, her peak creative period, her salon overflowed with the wild, the
whimsical, and even the ridiculous. Many of her madcap designs could be pulled off only by a woman of great substance and style: Gold ruffles sprouted from the fingers of chameleon-green suede gloves; a pale-blue satin evening gown—modeled by Madame Crespi in Vogue—had a stiff overskirt of Rhodophane (a transparent, glasslike modern material); a smart black suit jacket had red lips for pockets. Handbags, in the form of music boxes, tinkled tunes like “Rose Marie, I Love You”; others fastened with padlocks. Monkey fur and zippers (newfangled
in the thirties) were everywhere.love of trompe l’oeil can be traced to the fauxbow sweater that kick-started Schiaparelli’s career and brought her quirky style to the masses.“Dare to be different,”is the advice she offered to women. Pace-setters and rule-breakers waved that flag through the sixties, the seventies, and beyond. Photocredit Portrait: Irving Penn Windows: photographed by Jeanel Madera
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TRAVEL IS THE BEST REVENGE!
Living on the beach is what most Australians desire. Approximately 75% of Australians live near or on the beach. 2. Australia’s total nominal GDP is 1.542 trillion dollars, making it the 12th largest in the world. Its nominal per capita GDP is $65,642 which is the fifth largest in the world. 3. Australia has a very low poverty rate, and a high standard of living.4. Melbourne, Sydney, Perth and Adelaide have all appeared on The Economist’s world most liv-
able cities lists in various years.5. The real estate market in Australia is booming; however they have some of the highest house prices in the world, and Australians have very high household debt levels.6. The country’s government is a federal parliamentary constitutional monarchy.7. The main exports of Autralia include iron-ore, gold, natural gas and coal. They export most of their products to Japan, China, South Korea, New Zealand and the United 12 LAVISH
States.8. Australia is also a large exporter of wine. Wine exports contribute over $5.5 billion per year to Australia’s total economy.9. Most people who live in Australia descend from the British or the Irish because for over 200 years the majority of Australia’s immigrants came from the British Isles.10. Since WWI, Australia’s population has quadrupled.on has quadrupled.von has quadrupled. on has quadrupled.ear to Australia’s total economy.9. Most people
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Before she was BadGalRiRi: music, fashion and for its investors), but to be fair, Fenty Beauty is already beauty icon, Robyn Rihanna Fenty was a little girl in a pretty bold shift in makeup culture. The line’s most Barbados transfixed by her mother’s lipstick. The first discussed product, the Pro Filt’r Soft Matte Longwear time she experienced makeup for herself, she never Foundation, is resonating with Black women on a looked back. Makeup became her weapon of choice for level that’s more than skin-deep. The line has had an self-expression—a way to radiate her ever-changing outsized influence on popular culture — in particular, mood—and it powered a fearless take on beauty that beauty — and yet, it is still an (unnecessary) struggle helped her become the boundary-breaking icon she is for black and deeper-skin-toned women to find maketoday.Rihanna was inspired to create Fenty Beauty afup that matches and compliments their skin tones. The ter years of experpossibility of being “ When I was a teen back in Barbados, I was in a pageant, and my mom imenting with the represented within did my makeup for it. I will never forget the feeling I had after seeing best-of-the-best the same breadth how even my skin looked when she put foundation on my face. And I in beauty—and normally reserved remember my brother being so upset. He was like, “You’re gonna put still seeing a void for paler skin tones that on every day?” I loved it” in the industry for isn’t just exciting products that per— it’s a statement formed across all that women of color skin types and tones. She launched a makeup line “so deserve complex options. It’s this simple proposition that women everywhere would be included,” focusing that has everyone in the beauty industry (rightfully) on a wide range of traditionally hard-to-match skin shook. “To have the full range from super pale to all tones, creating formulas that work for all skin types, the beautiful darker shades… is fantastic,” said James and pinpointing universal shades. Kaliardos over email. “This speaks to girls who have It’s only been a month since its debut, but Rihanna’s felt not considered before but are a huge audience for new cosmetic line, Fenty Beauty, is proving to be a beauty.” Kaliardos is Fenty Beauty’s Resident Artist game changer. I know, that’s a pretty bold statement and co-founder of influential magazine, Visionaire. for a company that hasn’t even passed its first financial Kaliardos, a 20-year-plus veteran of the industry, has quarter (which I’m sure will be joy and thanksgiving been around long enough to have seen it all and has 20 LAVISH
top-notch, that in creating the looks for Rihanna’s Puma S/S 2018 show he didn’t have to sneak other brand’s products, “unlike at some other shows.” “I first tested the foundations on Rihanna from a lab sample case, so I wasn’t distracted by the beautiful packing, just the true working quality of Pro Filt’r itself,” Kaliardos wrote graciously at 5:30 AM, an ungodly but normal hour when prepping for a shoot. He was immediately impressed and remarked in a New Yorker article earlier this month that the quality of Fenty Beauty was so top-notch, that in creating the looks for Rihanna’s Puma S/S 2018 show he didn’t have to sneak other brand’s products, “unlike at some other shows.” Beauty brands are feeling the heat. A few weeks ago, Make Up For Ever not so subtly reminded everyone on Instagram that 40 shades was “nothing new” for the line — a dig at the celebrations surrounding the Fenty line, whose marketing strengths have led with its 40 shades of foundation. Of course, Rihanna being Rihanna, let them know how she felt. Without taking sides
or casting shade, I didn’t even realize that 40 shades was a thing. (At the time of this writing, I haven’t tried either lines.) Maybe I didn’t realize that 40 shades was a standard because I’ve never seen a line carry that many shades. But I get it now. As someone who covers the politics around beauty and fashion quite regularly, there’s still so much for me to learn as well; an unexpected side effect of listening to the conversations around Fenty Beauty has been a re-education of sorts, beginning with the beauty review of the woman with albinism. It’s myopic of me, but until the tweets and the above article, I’ve never thought about how hard it is for people with the condition to find makeup that truly includes them too. And that’s just it — what make-up line has that much power to create a conversation that’s not mired in out-of-touch marketing jargon and tonedeaf apologies? Fenty Beauty’s marketing campaign and execution have been praised by outlets and beauty bloggers alike — the latter a notoriously tough crowd — despite the challenges of staying stocked in stores.
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Fenty Beauty products are designed to feel lightenough to make inclusivity as a part of their busiweight, even as they deliver buildable coverage that ness plan. This is partly what makes Fenty Beauty an effortlessly layers, to ultimately “make skin look like outlier. It isn’t just because the line offers a plethora of skin.” Most importantly, Rihanna creates makeup to options for an underserved and ignored demographic. inspire: “Makeup is there for you to have fun with,” It’s also because it’s a celebrity line, and frankly, the she says. “It should never feel like pressure. It should bar is more about generating buzz and dollars than never feel like a uniform. Feel free to take chances, and shifting the goal line of an industry. Celebrity lines are take risks, and dare to do something new or differoften seen as vanity and brand projects, not serious ent.” “Brands were showing off their ‘diverse’ 15-shade contenders within an industry, and overnight, Fenty ranges of foundation…following the launch,” says Beauty seems to be making the $80 billion-a-year Danielle Gray of The Style and Beauty Doctor. “We’ve American beauty and personal care industry take been complaining about the lack of diversity…for notice. years, and here comes “ I start by looking for my outfit, and even that can be like, “Ugh,“I have seen a swift I gotta figure something out.” If I’m still not feeling it, I go to thechange in industry the Bajan princess swooping in with Fenty mirror and get my beat together. Makeup is therapeutic for me.heads as they scramOnce I start my glam—the makeup, the hair—I’m good “ Beauty and became an ble to match the diinstant game changer verse message Fenty — love it.” Beauty has launched, As a Black woman with lighter skin, I’m always aware “ says Kaliardos. “It’s as if the roof has been blown that while none of us are properly represented, darkoff…I’ve never seen this kind of global excitement for er-skinned Black women have it even worse. In “water a brand launch,” says Kaliardos when asked about the is wet” news, Gray confirms this, and in emailing her, effect so far of Fenty Beauty. I’m realizing how bad the game really is and why Fen- “To have the full range from super pale to all the beauty Beauty matters so much. “I’d go to events for major tiful darker shades…is fantastic,” said Kaliardos. “This beauty brands and there would be rows and rows of speaks to girls who have felt not considered before but the brand’s beige and tan foundations, and nothing are a huge audience for beauty.” anywhere near my shade — not even something I was a thing. (At the time of this writing, I haven’t tried could highlight with,” says Gray. either lines.) Maybe I didn’t realize that 40 shades This reminds me of the stories that my mom would was a standard because I’ve never seen a line carry recall from her modeling days, having to pack her that many shades. But I get it now. As someone who suitcases with makeup from Paris because sophisticat- covers the politics around beauty and fashion quite ed colors for black women were almost non-existent regularly, there’s still so much for me to learn as well; in America in the 1980s. “I’m surprised we didn’t an unexpected side effect of listening to the conversacrash the Concorde,” she’d half-jokingly laugh, when tions around Fenty Beauty has been a re-education of referring to her and other models’ bags of stash. sorts, beginning with the beauty review of the woman Because black women can’t find a lot of great options with albinism. It’s myopic of me, but until the tweets for make-up that aren’t hazardous in 2017, it leaves a and the above article, I’ve never thought about how lucrative opportunity for companies bold and smart hard it is for people with the condition to find makeup 23 LAVISH
“ The biggest mistake you can make is to compare yourself with someone else. I hate the pressure that’s being put on us by social media. Young girls don’t know which way to go; they’re still figuring themselves out. And what we’re teaching them through social media is this idea that you have to be perfect. I just reject that at every cost. I only know how to be me, and people thrive when they’re who they’re meant to be. I can only try my best to encourage girls and women to respect their uniqueness and be 100 percent true to themselves.”
The Met Gala, formally called the Costume Institute Gala and also known as the Met Ball, is an annual fundraising gala for the benefit of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute in New York City. It marks the grand opening of the Costume Institute’s annual fashion exhibit. Each year’s event celebrates the theme of that year’s Costume Institute exhibition, and the exhibition sets the tone for the formal dress of the night, since guests are expected to choose their fashion to match the theme of the exhibit. Institute Gala is a major fundraising benefit that serves as an opening celebration for the Institute’s annual fashion exhibit. Following the event, the exhibition runs for several months. The 2014 exhibition was scheduled to run from May 8 until August 10, 2014The Gala is widely regarded as one of the most exclusive social events in New York and one of the biggest fundraising nights in the city with $9 million raised in 2013 and a record of $12 million the following year.It is one of the most notable sources of funding for the Institute. The affair, attended by personalities from the arts, fashion, high-society, film, and music, has been held at the Met since 1948 29 LAVISH
and is considered to be the fashion industry’s premier annual red carpet event. Its red carpet fashions are widely photographed, reviewed, critiqued, and emulated.The museum is closed to the general public on the first Monday of May due to the gala occurring. Anna Wintour, Vogue editor-in-chief and a chair of the event since 1995 (excluding 1996 and 1998), oversees both the benefit committee and the guest list, with Vogue staffers helping assemble the list of invitees.According to Cathy Horyn of The New York Times, the gathering rivals the West Coast’s Vanity Fair Oscar Party, which is said to have more “star power” but less fashion panache.In 2014, the individual tickets cost $30,000 for those outside the official guest list, after prices were raised $10,000 to increase the exclusivity of the event. The annual guest list includes only 650–700 people.Each year the event has a theme, and includes a cocktail hour and a formal dinner.[30][31] During the cocktail hour, guests arrive to walk on the red carpet, tour the year’s special themed exhibition, and be seated before the dinner party that includes entertainment from the preeminent entertainers of the day.The theme not only sets the tone
The Met Gala, formally called the Costume Institute Gala and also known as the Met Ball, is an annual fundraising gala for the benefit of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute in New York City. It marks the grand opening of the Costume Institute’s annual fashion exhibit. Each year’s event celebrates the theme of that year’s Costume Institute exhibition, and the exhibition sets the tone for the formal dress of the night, since guests are expected to choose their fashion to match the theme of the exhibit. Institute Gala is a major fundraising benefit that serves as an opening celebration for the Institute’s annual fashion exhibit. Following the event, the exhibition runs for several months. The 2014 exhibition was scheduled to run from May 8 until August 10, 2014The Gala is widely regarded as one of the most exclusive social events in New York and one of the biggest fundraising nights in the city with $9 million raised in 2013 and a record of $12 million the following year.It is one of the most notable sources of funding for the Institute. The affair, attended by personalities from the
arts, fashion, high-society, film, and music, has been held at the Met since 1948 and is considered to be the fashion industry’s premier annual red carpet event. Its red carpet fashions are widely photographed,30reviewed, LAVISH critiqued, and emulated.The museum is closed to the general public on the first Monday of May due to the gala occurring. Anna Wintour, Vogue editor-in-chief and a chair of the event since 1995 (excluding 1996 and 1998), oversees both the benefit committee and the guest list, with Vogue staffers helping assemble the list of invitees. According to Cathy Horyn of The New York Times, the gathering rivals the West Coast’s Vanity Fair Oscar Party, which is said to have more “star power” but less fashion panache.In 2014, the individual tickets cost $30,000 for those outside the official guest list, after prices were raised $10,000 to increase the exclusivity of the event.The annual guest list includes only 650–700 people. Each year the event has a theme, and includes a cocktail hour and a formal dinner.[30][31] During the
”Who are you wearing tonight?!”
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The Met Gala, formally called the Costume Institute Gala and also known as the Met Ball, is an annual fundraising gala for the benefit of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute in New York City. It marks the grand opening of the Costume Institute’s annual fashion exhibit. Each year’s event celebrates the theme of that year’s Costume Institute exhibition, and the exhibition sets the tone for the formal dress of the night, since guests are expected to choose their fashion to match the theme of the exhibit. Institute Gala is a major fundraising benefit that serves as an opening celebration for the Institute’s annual fashion exhibit. Following the event, the exhibition runs for several months. The 2014 exhibition was scheduled to run from May 8 until August 10, 2014The Gala is widely regarded as one of the most exclusive social events in New York and one of the biggest fundraising nights in the city with $9 million raised in 2013 and a record of $12 million the following year.It is one of the most notable sources of funding for the Institute. The affair, attended by personalities from the arts, fashion, high-society, film, and music, has been held at the Met since 1948 and is considered to be the fashion industry’s premier annual red carpet event. Its red carpet fashions are widely photographed, reviewed, critiqued, and emulated.The museum is closed to the general public on the first Monday of May 31 LAVISH
The Gossip Girl star took a moment from gracing us all with her flawless presence to tell the photographers screaming her name to “calm down.” Lively, who attended sans hubby Ryan Reynolds, pointed to the chatty crowd with a sassy smile on her face before hitting pose after pose. Lively’s Atelier Versace gown took more than 600 hours to make. “This year’s may be my favorite dress ever,” the actress told Vogue. It’s not hard to see why!
MOVIES Andy (Anne Hathaway) is a recent college graduate with big dreams. Upon landing a job at prestigious Runway magazine, she finds herself the assistant to diabolical editor Miranda Priestly (Meryl Streep). Andy questions her ability to survive her grim tour as Miranda’s whipping girl without getting scorched.
DESSERT
Sprinkles Cupcakes is a Beverly Hills, California-based cupcake bakery chain established in 2005. It is considered the first cupcake bakery
SK
Mario Badescu is the nam generations and span the powerful acne solution ments, we customize reg concern imaginable. 34 LAVISH
FASHION
Vogue is a fashion and lifestyle magazine covering many topics including fashion, beauty, culture, living, and runway. Vogue began as a weekly newspaper in 1892 in the United States, before becoming a monthly publication years later
KIN CARE
me that continues to transcend e entire life-cycle of skin: from ns to potent anti-aging treatgimens for every skin type and 35 LAVISH
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