Mia

HOTTEST MAKEUP TRENDS September 2018

Chanel’s famed makeup artist,

HEIDI MORAWETZ

leaves behind a legacy of art

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12

New & Hot - What We All Want

Dining Out - Din Tai Fung

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Treat - All Good Things

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Letter from the Editor

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07

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Hottest Makeup Trends

Finding Comfort Among Beautiful Strangers

Chanel’s Famed Makeup Artist

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contributors

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR ART DIRECTOR BEAUTY DIRECTOR MEDIA RELATION CORDINATOR COPY EDITOR STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER ADVERTISING SALES

Mia Nguyen Kelvin Lu Cole Truong Cindy MD Helen Nguyen Jindo Pham Kyle Tran Liz Gold

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editor

letter from the

My dear readers and beauty lovers,

Being beautiful is a desire that many of us want. I personally envy anyone who can always appear flawless in the public anytime during the day. However, let me remind you that beauty really comes from the inside. To me, being healthy both physically and mentally is most important. Just take a few minutes everyday to enjoy your life, do a little yoga, talk to your family, and help out someone in needs. These simple actions will really help to bring out the beauty inside each of you. I promise you, they will make you grow more and more beautiful each day.

Warm regards,

Mia Nguyen

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treats

all good things

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Rich, crema to go chicory trifecta, single shot, brewed wings black rich irish. Kopi-luwak, blue

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treats

dining out

DIN TAI FUNG EXPANDS

By Mark Mueller

Popular Taiwanese restaurant chain Din Tai Fung is expanding its only Orange County location, at South Coast Plaza shopping center in Costa Mesa.

The restaurant, known for its lineup of soup dumplings, as well as wait times

Plaza four years ago. Its current space is about 8,000 square feet and reportedly accommodates 225 diners.

The restaurant’s original U.S. location is in Arcadia. It now lists five locations in Los Angeles County and plans to open one in San Diego.

that can often last an hour or more, will

It’s been a good news week for

take over space next door to its current

dumpling fans in Orange County. Last

location that was previously used by a

week brought reports that Tim Ho Wan, a

Sunglass Hut.

Michelin-starred, Hong Kong-based dim

Signs posted at the restaurant say the expanded space will open this fall.

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Din Tai Fung opened in South Coast

sum chain, will open a location at Diamond Jamboree shopping center in Irvine.

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new & hot what we all want in our makeup bag

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the

Fall issue

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#GLAMmagazine We’ve gone mobile

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hottest trends

makeup GLAM | 18

Golden Glow Glitter Thick Glow Lashes Golden Glitter Graphic Neo Liner Thick Lashes and allNeo thatLiner you need to stay trendy Graphic and all that you need to stay trendy

Photo by Francisco E. Serin

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A

t last, it’s almost time for short-shorts, swimsuits, and hot summer days—also known as the most perfect time of the year— which means it’s also time to try out new set of beauty trends. In search of inspiration, we picked the beautiful minds of makeup artists Yuki Hayashi and Rachel Goodwin to see what is going to be Demi Lovato voice, cool for the summer. Here’s what they suggested.

GLOSSY LIPS

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MATTE LIPS

GLITTER MAKEUP

DOTS MAKEUP

GLITTER MAKEUP

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TURN AROUND BRIGHT EYES Bright pops of eye color were all the rage at spring and summer runway shows like Marni and Missoni. Many cosmetic brands have also followed suit, releasing colorful palettes of their own. Favorites include Pat McGrath Labs’ Mothership IV Decadence Palette and Marc Jacobs Eye-Conic Multi-Finish Eyeshadow Palette. And according to Hayashi, blue eyeshadow will be the biggest trend we see this summer.

GLITTER-FLECKED SKIN

BLACK ATTACK

Just when we thought the world had reached sparkle fatigue, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi models walked the London runway with glitter dusted across their foreheads and hairlines. And, suffice it to say, we’re now officially considering showing up to the office with a full face of glitter.

If gilded, Studio 54–level skin isn’t your thing, you can still cash in on the sparkly trend in the most minimalist of ways, by tapping a sheer layer of iridescent cream over your lids and cheekbones.

PUNK-ROCK LIDS Leave it to Tom Ford to send his models down the runway wearing the coolest freaking smoky eye we’ve seen in a minute—thanks to the contrast of smudgy, charcoal-gray eyeshadow against dewy, glowing skin.

It’s a combination that’s begging to be recreated this weekend, so please unearth the intimidating eyeshadow palettes from the back of your drawer and proceed with zero caution.

AU NATURAL

TWIGGY-INSPIRED LASHES These thick, Twiggy-level lashes gave the lineup at Carven major ‘60s vibes.

Considering every realm of the beauty world has been fixated on the ‘90s as of late—hello, claw clips—we’re welcoming this super-mod, flash-toTURN AROUND BRIGHT EYES

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the-past look with open arms.

Thankfully, the look is easy to get at home: Just layer on mascara, and, while wet, gently press sections of lashes together to form a spiked look.

AU NATURALE

GO GALACTIC

Bye-bye heavy contouring and wild blocky brows: “Fresh baby skin with less contouring is becoming a new trend in 2018,” says Hayashi. To create the look, add a touch of bronzer to your skin for a fresh, sun-kissed feel.

Thankfully, the look is easy to get at home

GRAPHIC NEO LINER Now’s the time to revamp your cat eye, says Hayashi. “From the classic, defined cat eye to the smudged, rock-androll cat eye, create your own distinct eyeliner shape to show off your individuality,” he says.

SHINE BRIGHT PUNK-ROCK LIDS

Go on and get hooked on glitter. “There are so many colors and it’s perfect for embellishing eyeliner or color shadow in a subtle way. You can even use it to you create bold shapes or club kid lips,” says Goodwin, who suggests trying Lemonhead Space Paste. Fellow makeup artist Sir John used this for Beyoncé’s iconic Coachella performance. Need we say more?

GO GALACTIC We’ve said it before and we will say it again: Lip gloss is back and it’s Shine Bright

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poppin’. “Holographic lip gloss looks cool and understated when worn alone with just defined brows, mascara, and softly sculpted cheeks,” explains Goodwin. Dab a bit of product on your eyelids and cheekbones for additional dimension.

THICK LASHES Backstage at the Christian Dior spring 2018 show, retro clumpy lashes made a comeback.

These aren’t quite as dramatic as Twiggy lashes, but they do require layers of mascara and a few well-placed lashes.

GOLDEN GLOW Rihanna didn’t invent gold makeup, but she did invent the gold highlighter you’re going to see everywhere for the next millionor-so years. Trophy Wife, from her Fenty Beauty line, is the perfect yellow-gold metallic pigment that can (and should) be all over your

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face.

GLITTER MAKEUP Glitter will have gone supersize in 2018 if the runways are any indication. Rhinestones, gems, and sequins are the new way to wear the sparkly stuff, adhered on your eyelids and around your eyes using lash glue. It takes a little patience, but the statement-making payoff is worth it.

GLOSSY RED LIPS Strong red lips and bare skin were a staple in a number of 2018’s shows—lookin’ at you, Brandon Maxwell and Sally LaPointe—but we were especially keen on Huishan Zhang’s approach: crimson lips with a super-glossy finish.

We plan on taking cues from this look well into the spring and summer, especially since all it requires is a

Editor’s Picks basic red lipstick and a shiny red topcoat.

NEON ACCENTS It’s tough to bring neon into a makeup look without going there, but Tibi’s subtle-yet-vibrant flicks on each model’s eyelids may be our favorite use of a neon palette yet (especially against minimal face makeup).

FULL, FEATHERED BROWS On the Emilia Wickstead runway full, feathered brows were the centerpiece in each look. If you aren’t naturally endowed with thick-as-hell brows, swipe a tinted gel back and forth, like a windshield wiper, over your brows to coat both sides of the hair for a fuller finish.

SUN-KISSED PALETTE Thought those soft and luminous shades were only good for one season? Luckily for you (and your wallet), they have some more life in them. Makeup artist Hillary

TOP 10 MOISTURIZERS FOR OILY SKIN 1. Lotus Herbals Alphamoist Alpha Hydroxy Skin Renewal Oil-Free Moisturizer Light, non-greasy, and oil-free Moisturizes well and provides your skin with lasting hydration.

2. Neutrogena Oil-Free Moisturizer Moisturizes and provides sun protection. Light formula that spreads well and is quickly absorbed by the skin. Free of alcohol, fragrance, and dyes, which makes it suitable for people with sensitive skin.

3. Lacto Calamine Skin Balance Daily Nourishing Lotion Provides your skin with lasting hydration. An effective oil-control formula that keeps your skin from getting greasy.

4. Clean And Clear Skin Balancing Moisturizer Budget-friendly. Easily available Non-greasy. Travel-friendly.

5. Plum Green Tea Mattifying Moisturizer Hygienic pump packaging. Pleasant fragrance. Mattifies skin.

6. Himalaya Herbals Nourishing Face Moisturizing Lotion Budget-friendly. Moisturizes skin and leaves it feeling soft. Readily available. Spreads well and is quickly absorbed by the skin.

7. L’Oreal Paris 20+ AntiImperfections A light formulation that spreads easily and is absorbed quickly. Nongreasy.

8. Natio Daily Repair Oil-Free Moisturizer Hygienic and travel-friendly tube packaging. A light consistency that spreads well and is quickly absorbed.

9. Forest Essentials Light Hydrating Facial Gel Softens your skin, excellent makeup base, has soothing properties.

10. Kaya Acne Free Purifying Nourisher Fragrance-free. Non-comedogenic.

Dermatologically tested.

Light texture that spreads well.

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Kline recommends blending different shades of satin hues for your lid color.

INNER-CORNER LINER The Carven show played with the versatility of black eyeliner by tracing the inner corner of models’ eyes in a tiny V, resulting in a simple, surprisingly brilliant spin on a classic cat eye. The Carven show played with the versatility of black eyeliner by tracing the inner corner of models’ eyes in a tiny V, resulting in a simple, surprisingly brilliant spin on a classic cat eye.

SMOKY PEACH EYES Millennial pink showed very little signs of life at the 2018 shows (and we’re not mad about it, to be honest). In its place: warmer, peach tones, like these smoky eyes on the Mischka runway, which were created by blending peach shadow across the eyelids and lower lash lines for a supersoft, hazy finish.

SUMMER SHEEN Thanks to some YouTube videos (and an in-person tutorial from your bestie), you finally figured out how to master that highlighted cheekbone look. Now, it’s time to challenge your skill set to achieve what makeup artist Jules Annen calls the “summer sheen.” And while it definitely includes some shimmer, Annen says that sunset-kissed sparkle starts with healthy skin. “This summer it’s all about the full face glow. A radiant face is the mark of youth and energy.

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UNICORN MAKEUP

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profile

Chanel’s Famed Makeup Artist

Heidi Morawetz

leaves behind a legacy of art

H

eidi Morawetz, the famed makeup artist who conceived some of Chanel’s best-known beauty products and

worked with photographers such as Guy Bourdin, died on Aug. 9. She was 79 years old.

“Heidi Morawetz, known for her innate sense of color and elegance, passed away,” Chanel tweeted.

“She created The Rouge Noir and Le Blanc de Chanel. Her vision of beauty will remain indelibly linked with Chanel history.”Morawetz helmed Chanel’s makeup division with Dominique Moncourtois for almost three decades before retiring from the company in January 2008.

HEIDI MORAWETZ in an undated photo. “A woman must always adapt makeup and trends to her own personality and use them to be more herself,” she said.

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profile

In 1980, Morawetz was hired

by Moncourtois, then international director of makeup creation, to be the director of Chanel’s makeup creation studio. A graduate of the School of Art and Design and the School of Fashion Design in Vienna, Morawetz spent more than a decade working with leading photographers, such as Bourdin, Helmut Newton and Patrick Demarchelier.

In the Seventies, with Bourdin, she worked on campaigns including — notably — the surreal images for Charles Jourdan. That led to her being asked to create Yves Saint Laurent’s first makeup line, out in 1978.

Morawetz was born in Vienna in 1939. Peter Philips, the makeup artist who succeeded Morawetz and Moncourtois at Chanel, paid tribute to her in a tweet. “Besides being an amazing makeup artist and makeup

HEID MORAWETZ’S CHANEL ICONIC CAMPAIGNS

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HEID MORAWETZ’S CHANEL ICONIC CAMPAIGNS

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profile creator, she was the most beautiful person inside and out. For over 30 years, Heidi worked next to Dominique Moncourtois at Chanel, before that, she was at the start of the YSL makeup line in its early days. She worked with the greatest, Guy Bourdin, Helmut Newton, Sarah Moon, Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint Laurent…to name a few.

“When I did my first steps in makeup creation, she took me under her wings and I couldn’t have wished for a better mentor,” continued Philips, who is now with Dior.

In 2011, Philips interviewed Morawetz for a feature in Interview magazine, which described how she, with Moncourtois

The Rouge Noir and Le Blanc de Chanel created by Heidi Morawetz

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Uma Thurman in the film “Pulp Fiction” (1994) wearing the nail polish color that Ms. Morawetz helped create.

and Karl Lagerfeld, “pioneered the idea that cosmetics could be just as fashionable as clothes.”

“In the process, they masterminded some of Chanel’s most memorable products, among them Rouge Noir, released in the U.S. as Vamp, which was invented on the fly backstage before the 1994 autumn ready-to-wear collection, a story that has become the stuff of lore,” he wrote.

Uma Thurman famously wore the nail polish in her leading role in “Pulp Fiction” that year, kicking off the bestseller that endures today.

A private funeral will be held for Morawetz on Aug. 21 at the Natural Grace Funerals and Cremations in Los Angeles, California.

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story of the day

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Finding Comfort Among Beautiful Strangers Story of a New Yorker who finds beauty from the strangers she sees everyday on the streets of one of the busiest and most magnificient city in the world, our beloved New York city.

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story of the day

M

y favorite part of living in New York has always been the opportunity to study strangers at close range. I love to catalogue the small clues my fellow commuters give about who they are and where they are going.

I like to imagine their weird habits, what they are listening to on their phones, or what their parents might look like. I love bodies and all that they betray: abandoned ear piercings, the shine of a fresh blow-out, the bleary slump of some one who’s been up all night. I feel like I’m in a portrait gallery where the exhibit is always new.

When I lived on the Lower East Side in my 20s, the fashionable women of the neighborhood were my aesthetic weathervane. I didn’t have to know someone to be changed by her look. I forged my own appearance based on seeing a woman cut her bangs just so, or wear a vintage men’s Burberry raincoat — whatever the micro-trend of the moment happened to be. A little of this, a little of that. I guess that’s what “influencers” have accomplished recently for their millions of followers on Instagram. But there’s something nostalgic about unfiltered, chance encounters on the streets of New York. It’s real “street style,” you might say.

The women on the Lower East Side then were ahead of the curve, and by closely reading subtle changes in their dressing, I could predict how

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trends might travel. Sometimes I thought of myself as a forecaster with no one to report to.

I still keep an eye out for well-dressed city dwellers. The other night, while waiting for the train, I was looking at online photos of a very special, sexy Marni dress from the recent collection in Milan. When I looked up, I saw a woman with thick, cascading black hair standing to my left. She was so pretty. Not the way a model is pretty, just pretty in the way your prettiest friend might be pretty. She wore a Max Mara coat belted gently and left open at the neck. Her tall black boots had a casual slouch and a tapered wooden heel that gave her a sturdy but graceful stance.

Her long skirt could have been Lemaire or maybe Cos. She wore all black, which wasn’t particularly remarkable, but she had such composure.

Everything about her outfit was flattering, yet easy.

There’s something about seeing a “real woman” in front of you that is so much more appealing than any magazine page could ever be. I looked back at the picture of the Marni dress. All of a sudden I wanted to feel pretty again.

It’s not like I was ever trying to feel ugly per se, but for a while now I’ve been prioritizing “interesting” over attractive. Wanting to look pretty almost felt too simple, like the lowest level of Maslow’s fashion hierarchy of needs. There’s a million reasons for tastes swinging in that direction, but

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story of the day

I’ll pin it on Phoebe Philo’s reign at Céline. After the sex-positive American Apparel years, it felt fresh to wear thick turtlenecks and sneakers, or clothes that straight men might not appreciate. Maybe with Philo leaving Céline I’ll want to move on, too.

It feels slightly taboo to think about wanting to be pretty when we’ve just emerged from the darkness of the #MeToo explosion. Yet my urge has less to do with other people and how they see me than with something more personal: With spring right around the corner, I’m ready to be swept off my feet by something lovely. I want some joy.

I’ve been wearing clothing that felt like armor, suddenly I want to feel a little vulnerable again. All I know for sure is that I want that Marni dress: half red, half pink, clasped at the waist with a gold oval … it’s sultry, in a smart, personal way. Like the woman on the train.

Love, Stella

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