Tseng summer2015 sp

Inside the SurfCulture

Shakai

Summer 2015

Holly Beck Ties the Knots

Pro surfer talks about her life after starting a family in Nicaragua

The Original Wave Riders

Wave riding was invented long before the Hawaiian Islands were even populated

Richard Avedon

Fahey Klein presents a major retrospective of the photographers work.

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Inside the SurfCulture

Shakai Summer 2015

Table of Contents

09 A Perfect Balance

10 Window Into Surreal

13 Chasing the Sunset

16 Perfect Wave Essentials

22 Holly

32 Richard Avedon

42 The Original Wave Riders

r o e r u t Cul

? e l y t s Life

Editorial President and Publisher John R. MacArthur Editor Angela Tseng Executive Editor James Marcus Managing Editor Robert P. Baird Deputy Editor Christopher Cox Senior Editors Emily Cooke Art Director Angela Tseng Assistant Editors Hasan Altaf Camille Bromley Matthew Sherrill Assistant Art Director Sam Finn Cate-Gumpert Editorial Interns Jamie Fisher Henry Knight Rachel Poser Contributing Artists Olive Ahyens Aaron Huey Samuel James Steve Mumford Richard Ross Vice President and Associate Publisher Peter D. Kendall Vice President and General Manager Lynn Carlson Vice President, Circulation Shawn D. Green Vice President, Public Relations Giulia Melucci Assistant to the Publisher/ Rights and Reprints Barbara Andreasson Kim Lau, Senior Accountant Eve Brant, Office Manager Adrian Kneubuhl, Staff Advertising Sales (212) 420-5720; Fax: (212) 260-1096 Production & Advertising Services Manager Jennifer C. Adams Sales Representatives (Los Angeles) Tauster media resources, Inc. (231) 858-1558; Fax: (231) 858-1510

Shakai is a publication that taps into the surfing culture and lifestyle around the world.

More than showcasing professional surfers and their achievements it exposes the rich history and art of the ever growing surf culture. Through beautiful photography, inspiring interview, and stunning artwork, Shakai exposes more than just an action sport, it dives into exploring surfing as a way of life while interconnecting surfers from around the world. The readers will get to meet locals, learn their secrets, and be inspired by different communities that have the same passion: THE SURF Inside the SurfCulture

Shakai

www.shakai.com

A letter from the editor

SLEEP • EAT • SURF • REPEAT

5 1 0 2 e n u J , a u g a r a c Ni “Live by the Sea and Love by the Moon”

Ever since I can remember I have been in love with the water, no matter where it was: swimming pool, river or ocean; it used to be a constant battle between me and my mom when she tried to get me out of the water. Since I lived in the city, I was only able to go to the beach during the summers and did not start surfing until later in life. At first, I wanted to learn how to surf because it looked cool; however, my first few trials were a failure and I decided to stay away. It wasn’t until I moved to California and caught my first wave that I started to realize surfing was not just a sport that looked cool; there was so much more to it. The moment I felt the wave underneath my body, stood up on my board, and rode the face of the it my life changed. It was like magic, and all the sore muscles, all the pounding by the wave, all the “almost death” experiences were worth it just to feel that sensation of riding one of the most powerful forces of nature. I would never be able to explain that feeling in words; all I can say is that everyone should experience it at least once in their lifetime.

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food • culture • travel

[Dive Into]

A Perfect Balance C Just the right amount of sugar

upcake ipsum dolor sit amet chupa chups dragée fruitcake liquorice. Chocolate chocolate danish carrot cake. Jelly beans dessert oat cake. Candy canes tootsie roll biscuit gummies chupa chups brownie.

Biscuit cotton candy cheesecake sesame snaps tootsie roll lemon drops powder. Chocolate cake chupa chups bonbon tiramisu bear claw soufflé croissant sweet roll soufflé.

Cotton candy topping ice cream sweet roll wafer croissant carrot cake soufflé. Bear claw lemon drops pudding dessert tart gummi bears bear claw.

Cupcake tootsie roll fruitcake jelly beans. Bonbon cotton candy chocolate cake toffee marzipan. Sweet roll macaroon cake cookie croissant croissant. Pie jelly-o cheesecake sweet muffin jelly.

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food • culture • travel

[Dive Into]

Windows into the Surreal FIDM’s 5th floor windows celebrate the surreal work of Elsa Schiaparelli

BY HAMISH BOWLES

“Madder and more original than most of her contemporaries, Mme Schiaparelli is the one to whom the word ‘genius’ is applied most often,” Time magazine wrote of its cover subject in 1934.[1] Coco Chanel once dismissed her rival as “that Italian artist who makes clothes.” (To Schiaparelli, Chanel was simply “that milliner.”)[2] Indeed, Schiaparelli—“Schiap” to friends—stood out among her peers as a true nonconformist, using clothing as a medium to express her unique ideas. In the thirties, her peak creative period, her salon overflowed with the wild, the whimsical, and even the ridiculous. Many of her madcap designs could be pulled off only by a woman of great substance and style: Gold ruffles sprouted from the fingers of chame-

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PHOTOCREDIT PORTRAIT: IRVING PENN WINDOWS: PHOTOGRAPHED BY CARLOS DIAZ

leon-green suede gloves; a pale-blue satin evening gown—modeled

by Madame Crespi in Vogue—had a stiff overskirt of Rhodophane (a transparent, glasslike modern material); a smart black suit jacket had red lips for pockets. Handbags, in the form of music boxes, tinkled tunes like “Rose Marie, I Love You”; others fastened with padlocks.

Monkey fur and zippers (newfangled in the thirties) were everywhere, love of trompe l’oeil can be traced to the faux-bow sweater that kick-started Schiaparelli’s career and brought her quirky style to the masses.

“Dare to be different,”[7] is the advice she offered to women.

Pace-setters and rule-breakers waved that flag through the sixties, the seventies, and beyond.

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food • culture • travel

[Dive Into]

Chasing The Sunset The Sun sets in Central America

C

upcake ipsum dolor sit amet halvah. Jujubes topping sesame snaps. Gummi bears liquorice gummi bears pastry lemon drops jelly beans gummies caramels sweet roll.

Lemon drops pudding liquorice halvah topping ice cream soufflé. Chupa chups icing sweet icing jelly-o lemon drops candy toffee sesame snaps. Toffee sweet chocolate cake marzipan chocolate tootsie roll jelly-o macaroon jujubes. Biscuit sweet liquorice dessert.

Chocolate cookie toffee croissant marzipan pastry jelly. Dragée chocolate bar gummi bears bonbon tart. Ice cream lemon drops toffee chocolate bar.

Donut gummi bears toffee jelly beans candy cake pudding cheesecake. Dessert cake tart toffee liquorice cookie

lollipop. Brownie candy canes macaroon toffee jujubes gingerbread cheesecake carrot cake. Cake cookie chocolate bar caramels tiramisu.

Jujubes gummies icing liquorice danish tart fruitcake.

Danish lemon drops tootsie roll biscuit ice cream. Topping donut croissant dragée dessert tootsie roll chocolate bar. Bear claw toffee ice cream soufflé toffee pastry biscuit marzipan.

Bonbon cheesecake dragée lemon drops gummies sweet roll oat cake bear claw brownie. Sweet roll marzipan topping dragée jelly beans donut jelly. Powder chupa chups croissant carrot cake biscuit candy canes pastry.

Chocolate cookie toffee croissant marzipan pastry jelly.

Dragée chocolate bar gummi bears bonbon tart. Ice cream lemon drops toffee chocolate bar.

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Perfect Wave Essentials

01

DAKINE Pro Comp 6’x 3/16” 16w, $22

02

DAKINE Classic Boardie 16w, $48

03

MIZU M8 Girl Swirl, $21.95

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05

04

RIP CURL Search GPS-Black, $400

DAKINE Women’s Split Roller 100L, $210

07

MD SOLAR SCIENCES Mineral Sunscreen Stick Spf 40, $18

06

SAN LORENZO BIKINIS Kaimana & Honi Sport Brief, $120

08

ROXY Alongside You Duffle, $43.95

09

STICKY BUMPS Tropical Travel Pack, $16.50

10

GOPRO HERO4 Black, $499.99

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Inside the SurfCulture

Shakai summer 2015

Endless Summer

Holly Beck Ties the Knots Pro surfer talks about her life after starting a family in Nicaragua Interview by Anna Langer

Holly and Kim in Nicaragua

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he’s stunningly beautiful, travels the world surfing and helps underprivileged people where ever she can. A combination you could very easily be incredibly jealous of.

Hey Holly, what are you up to at the moment?

Right this moment I’m hanging out on the porch at my house in Nicaragua watching the rain pour down while enjoying a steamy cup of coffee and some time catching up online without worrying about the surf today.

Less specifically, I’m at the end of a three month trip down here and starting to think about heading back to California. I definitely do not want to leave what I’ve started to consider as “home” but it will be good to catch up with friends and family for 10 days before heading off to Fiji to film a surf and dive documentary with Body Glove.

You work with non profit organizations there to help the local community. What kind of projects do you support and how does that work?

SYRV.org is run by a friend of mine and focuses specifically in the area of Nicaragua where I have my house. They have built water purification systems for schools and families without other access to clean water.

Their current project is turning a shipping container into a community center where local people can access computers, sewing machines, clean water, and after-school tutoring.

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Holly in Nicaragua

There’s also a nurse that runs her own health clinic and sponsors school kids and another hostel nearby that runs an after-school program. Those things combined with a church group that feeds the kids at the dump create plenty of opportunities to plug in smiling volunteers and do some good.

You have traveled the whole world as a surfer. What other exciting places have you been too?

I’ve been incredibly lucky. Whenever I try to list off all the countries I’ve visited thanks to surfing, I always end up forgetting a few, but here’s the ones that come to the top of my head: Mexico, Nicaragua, Panama, Costa Rica, Ecuador, Brazil, Australia, Fiji, Tonga, Tahiti, Indonesia, India, Andaman Islands, Maldives, Sao Tome, Haiti, Seychelles, Portugal, England, France, South Africa, Gabon, Hawaii, New Zealand What/where impressed you the most?

Well, Nicaragua is my favorite and I love all the Latin American countries too. I would have to say that the Seychelles were the most jaw-dropping beautiful, Haiti had the most interesting culture, in Australia I made the most friends, Sao Tome had the most memorable single surfing experience, but I would most like to return to New Zealand.

How did you get into surfing in the first place?

I wanted to learn to surf when I was 13, but my mom said no. “Surfing is for boys. You should be sitting on the beach looking cute in your bikini not out competing with them,

you’ll never get a boyfriend that way!” She was super old fashioned and never approved of her tomboyish daughter, but by the time I was 14 I had saved up enough babysitting money to buy a surfboard and wetsuit at a garage sale and by the time I was 15 I had friends that could drive me to the beach so she couldn’t stop me. I was so determined to prove her wrong about surfing being just for boys that I picked it up really quickly.

You also competed professionally for a while, is that right?

I turned pro in 2001 after graduating from college and did the WQS for 7 years. It was really fun. I’m a very competitive person and I made a ton of friends from all over the world. But the tour isn’t all glitz and glamour.

You go to the same exact place every single year. You are there for 10 days and don’t really get to go explore because you have to practice at the contest beach. But there are 200 of the best guy surfers and 72 of the best girls from all over the world all trying to practice at that same beach too, so it’s really crowded. I’ve been to Durban South Africa 8 times but never been on safari or really done much exploring. It got to the point where I was spending so much money to do a contest that I’d end up getting frustrated and then flying home without seeing the place or interacting with the people much at all. Now when I travel I go to more interesting places and the whole purpose is exploration and interaction.

It’s a lot more fun and rewarding.

Holly in California

“Ideally, if you want to make money in surfing especially over a long time, you have to have both: looks and skills.�

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Holly in Nicaragua

Holly in Costa Rica

Holly in Panama

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Holly and Kim in Bali

You also modeled quite a bit in your life, how do you like that part of your job?

The modeling part is the “work” part of being a pro surfer. I don’t particularly like it, but being able to do the modeling and surfing is a big part of how I’m 29 and still getting paid to surf while a lot of my peers that didn’t do the modeling part are now “retired” from pro surfing. Sometimes it’s fun. If the people you’re working with are awesome, that makes all the difference.

There’s a quite a debate about girl surfer being sponsored for their looks rather than their skills. How do you see that?

It happens a lot. I was just on a trip with a girl who can surf ok in small waves and is really beautiful. She is in a ton of ads and a lot of American surf mags because she’s hot but she would only surf for 40 minutes at a time and then go lay on the beach. The days the surf was bigger she was only taking the little inside waves, and she calls herself a pro surfer!

But, the truth of marketing is that pro surfing exists to sell product. If you aren’t attractive you aren’t going to sell any product so sponsors aren’t interested. I have a Masters in marketing but you don’t need that to understand the situation.

Did people ever give you hard feelings for being a pro surfer and a model at the same time?

I’ve done a lot of modeling and in the beginning of my career I felt a lot of pressure to prove that I wasn’t one of those girls just sponsored because I was tall with blonde hair and blue eyes and could pose in a bikini. Some of the older girls doing the contests definitely gave me a hard time at first because a lot of the ads that were run of me in the beginning just showed me standing there with my surfboard not actually surfing. It took some time to get past that image.

Right now there are a lot of young girls coming up in the sport who totally rip and are also super beautiful like Alana Blanchard, so hopefully that will help settle the debate. Ideally, if you want to make money in surfing especially over a long time, you have to have both: looks and skills.

How do you think girls should deal with situations like that in general?

If you model and want to call yourself a surfer, you’d better work on surfing as well as you can or else you’ll have the same problem. But no one should be ashamed of looking good and getting paid better for it. Use what you’ve got to get what you want!

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Holly and Kim in Nicaragua

What do you do to stay fit?

I’m one of those annoying people with good genes that can eat anything and doesn’t have to work out to look fit.

Fitness is still important for surfing though. I HATE the gym and have never had a gym membership in my life.

I play! I surf, chase my dogs on the beach, go for a hike or a paddle, etc. Living in Nicaragua without electricity, I have to pump a well to get water, carry that water to the toilet to flush it, wash clothes on a washboard, etc. I actually end up losing all body fat living down here! Just taking care of the chores necessary to live is a full on core body workout!

What goals do you have you still wanna reach?

I want to be able to sustain myself financially while living in Nicaragua, so getting that women’s surf retreat going and keeping it up is a big short term goal. Longer term, I’ve been working on writing a novel based on my experiences learning to surf and going on tour for about 2 years.

I spend a couple months working on it and then forget about it for 6 months. I want to put in some more time and finish that.

What’s up next for you?

I’m headed to Fiji next month to film a dive and surf documentary with Body Glove. We are going to be surfing all over the place and diving with tiger sharks. I can’t wait!

Wow, we wish you great times then!

Holly in Nicaragua

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Holly and Luna in Nicaragua

Holly and Luna in Nicaragua

Holly and Luna in Nicaragua

9 THINGS YOU ONLY SURF ADDICTS KNOW 1. NOTHING IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN GETTING IN THE SEA You’ll sack off anything just to get a couple of waves squeezed in – even your Grandma’s 90th birthday.

2.YOU SUFFER FROM ‘JUST ONE MORE WAVE’ You catch a perfect glassy peeler and pop nicely off the end. It’s time to go in. But you can’t help it. ‘Just one more wave,’ you say to yourself.

3.YOU START TO GO CRAZY WHEN IT’S BEEN FLAT FOR OVER 48 HOURS You start getting antsy.You’ve cleaned your apartment, re-waxed your board, watched every surf video on the internet…. NOW WHAT? 4.YOU’VE ALWAYS GOT SURFLINE OPEN AT WORK Surfline will always be lurking behind those boring spreadsheets, 5.YOU WEAR BIKINIS MORE THAN BRAS Bikinis tops are WAY comfier and it will save time when you’re rushing to catch the waves at low tide.

6.YOU NEGLECT YOUR PARTNER IN FAVOR OF SURF It’s perfect conditions – and they want to go see a movie.You want to go for a 5am dawnie and they’ve been looking forward to a cozy lie-in together all week.

7. EVERYTHING YOU OWN IS FILLED WITH SAND Your car, your hair, your shoes…. Those little grains somehow manage to work their way into your bed as well.

8.YOU’LL DRIVE EPIC DISTANCES JUST TO CATCH ONE WAVE It doesn’t matter how far away you live from the sea – if it’s pumping and you’ve got time off work, you’ll get there.

9.YOU SPEND ALL YOUR TIME LOOKING AT NEW GEAR Whether it’s a new wetsuit, a neon leash or another longboard to add to your ever-growing collection, you can’t help but keep putting items in your online shopping basket.

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Fahey Klein presents a major retrospective of the photographers work.

By Kely Smith

Richard

W

hat do Jean Genet, Jimmy Durante, Brigitte

of disciplines. Avedon’s ability to present personal views of

Bardot, Georgia O’Keeffe, Jacques Cous-

public figures, who were otherwise distant and inaccessible,

teau, Andy Warhol, and Lena Horne have in

was immediately recognized by the public and the celebrities

common? They were a few of the many personalities caught

themselves. Many sought out Avedon for their most public

on film by photographer Richard Avedon. For more than

images. His artistic style brought a sense of sophistication and

fifty years, Richard Avedon’s portraits have filled the pages of

authority to the portraits. More than anything, it is Avedon’s

the country’s finest magazines. His stark imagery and brilliant

ability to set his subjects at ease that helps him create true,

insight into his subjects’ characters has made him one of the

intimate, and lasting photographs.

premier American portrait photographers.

unique style all his own. Famous for their minimalism, Avedon

Born in New York in 1923, Richard Avedon dropped

Throughout his career Avedon has maintained a

out of high school and joined the Merchant Marine’s photo-

portraits are often well lit and in front of white backdrops.

graphic section. Upon his return in 1944, he found a job as

When printed, the images regularly contain the dark outline

a photographer in a department store. Within two years he

of the film in which the image was framed. Within the min-

had been “found” by an art director at Harper’s Bazaar and

imalism of his empty studio, Avedon’s subjects move freely,

was producing work for them as well as Vogue, Look, and a

and it is this movement which brings a sense of spontaneity

number of other magazines. During the early years, Avedon

to the images. Often containing only a portion of the per-

made his living primarily through work in advertising. His real

son being photographed, the images seem intimate in their

passion, however, was the portrait and its ability to express

imperfection. While many photographers are interested in ei-

the essence of its subject.

ther catching a moment in time or preparing a formal image,

Avedon has found a way to do both.

As Avedon’s notoriety grew, so did the opportuni-

ties to meet and photograph celebrities from a broad range

Jean Shrimpton

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Jacqueline de Ribes

Marella Agnelli

“All photographs are accurate.

None of them is the truth.”

- Richard Avedon

Jean Shrimpton

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Twiggy

Dovima with Elephants

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Veruschka Von Lehndorff

Beyond his work in the magazine industry, Avedon has collaborat-

Bazaar and in 1974 he collaborated with James Baldwin on the book

ed on a number of books of portraits. In 1959 he worked with Truman

Nothing Personal. Having met in New York in 1943, Baldwin and Avedon

Capote on a book that documented some of the most famous and im-

were friends and collaborators for more than thirty years. For all of the

portant people of the century. Observations included images of Buster

1970s and 1980s Avedon continued working for Vogue magazine, where

Keaton, Gloria Vanderbilt, Pablo Picasso, Dr. J. Robert Oppenheimer, Frank

he would take some of the most famous portraits of the decades. In 1992

Lloyd Wright, and Mae West. Around this same time he began a series of

he became the first staff photographer for The New Yorker, and two years

images of patients in mental hospitals. Replacing the controlled environ-

later the Whitney Museum brought together fifty years of his work in the

ment of the studio with that of the hospital he was able to recreate the

retrospective, “Richard Avedon: Evidence”. He was voted one of the ten

genius of his other portraits with non-celebrities. The brutal reality of the

greatest photographers in the world by Popular Photography magazine,

lives of the insane was a bold contrast to his other work. Years later he

and in 1989 received an honorary doctorate from the Royal College of

would again drift from his celebrity portraits with a series of studio images

Art in London. Today, his pictures continue to bring us a closer, more inti-

of drifters, carnival workers, and working class Americans.

mate view of the great and the famous.

Throughout the 1960s Avedon continued to work for Harper’s

Avedon died on October 1st, 2004.

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Fishermen from Huanchaco, Peru

By Adrian Morris

Wave riding was invented long before the Hawaiian Islands were even populated

The Original Wave Riders

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P

Huanchaco, Peru

eru might not be as famous for surfing as Hawaii or Australia, but it wasn’t long after landing in Lima that I began to feel its strong heritage here. The coast off Miraflores is jammed with surfers; businessmen race down the cliffs after work to catch that magical sunset left they have been thinking of all day, sun-bleached heads of kids float around in the distance having spent their whole day mastering ‘the perfect cutback’ before carrying their boards home through Lima’s high-rises and traffic-jammed streets. It definitely seems like a beloved pastime here, which is not really a surprise for a country with 1800 miles of rugged coastline.

But locals insist it’s more than a hobby – that Peru is actually the home of surfing, Peruvian fishermen the original surfers.

I grew up in Australia in one of the most popular surfing areas of the world; clear blue skies, white sand beaches and perfect waves were just the everyday backdrop for me. Now that I no longer live there, I find myself trying to discover those same go to spots in other countries. I had heard about this place called Huanchaco, 9 hours north of Lima with some of the longest lefts and sandy beaches and where the “original surfers” were still catching waves. I booked a bus ticket and left straight away.

After a long and windy bus ride from Lima, I arrive in the sleepy fishing village of Huanchaco. Now a popular surfing destination for a lot of foreigners and locals in search of that perfect long left, the town also still clings to its origins. There are fishermen placed along the beach kicking back in a ‘half siesta’ daze, staring out to sea for the majority of the day, sat proudly next to their traditional reed fishing boats.

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Fishermen from Huanchaco, Peru

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Huanchaco, Peru

“These claims would prove that wave riding was invented in Peru long before the Hawaiian Islands were even populated.”

The origins of surfing is a hot topic and an ongoing debate in the surfing world as Hawaii is usually considered to be its home. Peruvians, however, claim to have unearthed pottery from as early as 1000 B.C. that depicts fishermen using caballitos de totora. These claims would prove that wave riding was invented in Peru long before the Hawaiian Islands were even populated. Standing on the beach in Huanchaco today, it’s hard to believe surfing was invented here. There is nothing that really celebrates it, no signs or flags or anything in particular to proudly proclaim their great history – just fishermen dozing in the sun, a few dogs running around, some local and foreign surfers checking the waves and kids playing in the water.

I meet up with Juan who is the owner of the place I am staying, Hotel Bracamonte, apparently the first hotel in Huanchaco. Driving around town he points out the best spots to surf and fish. There are three areas where the fishermen keep their reed boats as well as a large area towards the end point of the bay where the fishermen grow, bundle and dry their reeds in the sun.

Juan tells me the red boats need to be replaced every two months.

The fishermen are interesting characters; very much keeping to themselves they don’t even seem to interact with each other. Content after catching their fish in the morning, they tend to spend the rest of the day sitting alone with their boats staring out to sea. I guess the only type of fishing they do is a solitary activity, the boats only allowing for one fisherman at a time. And on the chilled-out beaches of Huanchaco, it’s easy to forget that their work is not easy. They’re up in the early hours

of the morning to battle the elements at sea, working against the clock to get fish, against their will, inside their boat. If anyone’s earned a lazy afternoon in the sun on the beach, it’s these guys.

Huanchaco is a town where you can find a contrast of traditional local ways of life amongst a slowly growing number of hostels, bars, and cafes to suit the needs of tourists. However, this hasn’t seemed to affect the overall vibe of the town just yet. The atmosphere remains relaxed, local, and welcoming. Perfect waves, amazing seafood, backstreets scattered with street art, small markets and historic buildings are all a walk away from your hammock and book.

The reed boats used by fishermen in Huanchaco were named by the Spanish in the 15th Century for the way they are ridden: ‘caballitos de totora’ which translates to ‘little reed horses’. The fishermen straddle these boats and throw the fish into the space left open in the middle. When they’ve made a sufficient catch, they ride the waves back to shore and haul it to the markets. So what do these fishermen have to do with surfing? Peruvians claim that these fishermen and their reed boats are the first ever wave riders, making use of the waves to get back into shore after a morning spent fishing out at sea.

While they don’t stand on the boats and carve the waves, they are seen as the first step in the evolution of surfing, the waves a practical form of transportation from the sea to the shore.

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Fishermen from Huanchaco, Peru

Fishermen from Huanchaco, Peru

Fishermen from Huanchaco, Peru

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Fishermen from Huanchaco, Peru

“The fishermen are interesting characters; very much keeping to themselves they don’t even seem to interact with each other.”

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Diversity