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CONTENTS

44 12

52 FE AT U RE S

12 TWISTED TREASURE

Getting deep in a remote slot canyon. By Matthew Sloan

18 SAVING THE DARK SKY

Connecting people to stars. By Tiona Eversole

22 BUMPED AROUND

IN BEAUTIFUL PLACES

The best jeeping on the planet. By Jenny Johnston

26 MAPPING A

NATURAL WONDER

Interview with author Tom Martin. By Tiona Eversole

32 NOLAN’S 14

FOR MERE MORTALS

Camping along a highendurance run. By Ryan Kempfer

36 LOST & FOUND

Minimal gear, ambitious plan — fastpacking. By Brandon Mathis

D EPARTMENTS

08 OPENING SHOT

ABOUT THE COVER

10 OUTDOOR VITALS

Josh Champion leaps from a boulder above Mohawk Lakes outside Breckenridge, Colorado. Autumn weekends in the high country make for long trips with friends. @colefreakindavis

Desert biomes

30 BEHIND THE LENS 42 GEAR BIN 44 KILLER WEEKEND Fruita, Colorado

46 HIDDEN GEMS

Fall colors without the crowds

50 CALENDAR 52 SIPS ‘N’ SUDS

Durango brewery pairings

56 HOW TO

Trail running and fishing

60 WILD VOICES

Nichole Baker: healer, mountain biker

62 VISTAS

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photo by Cole Davis

EDITOR'S NOTE

FOR THE ADVENTURER IN ALL OF US EDITORIAL

Jan Nesset editor Tiona Eversole assistant editor Terrance Siemon photographer & videographer Laurie Kain photographer & videographer Hunter Harrell copy editor CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Chloe Bourdon Margaret Hedderman Jenny Johnston Ryan Kempfer Brandon Mathis

Lis McLaughlin Heather Mobley Matthew Sloan Morgan Tilton

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Bryan Bagdol Nichole Baker Marcus Garcia Ryan Kempfer Nicole Marines

Ryan McGehee Andy McKinley Whit Richardson Reed Weimer Lyle Wilkens

A DV E R T I S I N G

David Habrat vice president of advertising Abby Feldman Amy Baird Heather Mobley Tana Bowen Joe Nelson Kelly Bulkley Samantha Crews Teressa Nelson Chandler Sommerfeldt Cole Davis Colleen Donley PRODUCTION

Ryan Brown production manager DESIGN

Tad Smith manager of creative services Christian Ridings designer Gary Markstein designer MARKETING

Jamie Opalenik

marketing director

I N T E R AC T I V E

Jace Reynolds web designer Skylar Bolton web development M A N AG E R

Douglas Bennett chief executive officer Carrie Cass director of finance /ADVENTUREPROMAG @ADVENTUREPROMAG ADVENTURE PRO MAGAZINE @ADVENTUREPROMAGAZINE ADVENTURE PRO MAGAZINE

© 2019 All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Published in the United States by Ballantine Communications, Inc. 1275 Main Ave., Durango, CO 81301. Ballantine Communications uses reasonable effort to include accurate and up-to-date information for its special publications. Details are subject to change, so please check ahead. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this guide. We welcome suggestions from readers. Please write to the editor at the address above.

Before you settle in with this issue, whip up a batch of cocoa or crack a brew. Fall is in the air and we’re hoping the pairing of the right beverage with this issue sets the mood. We’re into pairings, as you’ll learn. So kick back, settle in. In these pages we’ll see one very ambitious fastpacker, the benefits of exploring a mountain racing route at a slow pace and a new way to look at the desert for adventure. We’ll also visit with a river savant and profile a mountain biking and pathology professional who travels to Africa each year to help Ugandans. We’ll link trail running to fishing and explore the positive side of pushing hard through a slot canyon. For a killer weekend getaway, we head to Fruita, Colorado, where a local writer details mountain biking, hiking and dining opportunities while also pointing to a pumpkin patch. From a seasoned (from infancy) expert we’ll learn about jeeping on spindly roads through historic and scenic areas. From our staff experts we’ll learn how to capture the perfect photograph even in chilling weather and crazy crowds, and where to find

CONNECTING TO THE OUTDOORS exceptionally dark, starry skies. And because it’s fall, we disclose four of the best places in our region to see forests of electrifying fall colors. New in this issue, we honor the end of an adventure, which many of us celebrate with a cold brew or cocktail. The new Sips ‘n’ Suds department takes us on a journey to breweries, distilleries and wineries of our region, beginning this issue with the breweries of Durango and how the names of custom brews are paired to the outdoors. See, pairings! We’ve also expanded the Gear Bin, which features a selection of mostly new gear that has been tested by us. You’ll find a short write-up of each gear item, which for most items is expanded online at www.adventurepro.us to a full review with more photography. Through it all, I hope you’re learning that at the end of the day Adventure Pro isn’t really about climbing or running or jeeping or canyoneering or kicking ass. We’re all about living a great life connecting to the outdoors, something that’s been putting a smile on faces for a very long time. Enjoy the fall

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Saturday, November 2nd from 8am to 4pm at The LaPlata County Fairgrounds Public check in is October 31st 3pm-8pm

Hesperus Ski Patrol 56th Annual Ski Swap 2019 Join the Hesperus Ski Patrol www.hesperusskipatrol.org Hesperus Ski Patrol is recruiting. If you are interested in joining HSP please contact 970-442-1866 Art by FlyingFoxArt Follow on lnstagram @flying_fox_art

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First sentence should read, “For more stories and photography (and video) to fire up your craving for exploration and adventure, visit www.adventurepro.us. Online you will find a wealth of inspiring content covering the variety of topics you’re accustomed to reading in our print magazine.

Here’s a sampling of what you’ll find online: ›› Colorado’s 13ers Should Be at the Top of Your Peak-Bagging List ›› 3 Reasons to Check Out the Crested Butte Film Festival ›› 3 Fun Sand Destinations in the Southwest to Play in and Explore ›› Raising an Adventure Dog ›› Southwest Breakfast Burritos: Camping Edition ›› 4 Southwest Reservoirs to Enjoy the Last Days of Summer ›› Green River, Utah: The Rugged and Wild Gem of Southeast Utah ›› Kelty Folding Cooler: Versatility for Camping or Road Trips ›› Telluride’s Via Ferrata Gives Adrenaline Seekers a Fresh Perspective ›› Williams, Arizona: Your Adventure Guide to a Classic Desert Town ›› Wilson Peak: Summiting the Mountain on the Coors Can ›› Telluride Bike Park: What You Need to Know About

the New Trail System ›› How Well Do You Know Outdoor Colorado? ›› Highpointing Around the Colorado Plateau … and Beyond! ›› Thorlo Socks First Nation Collection ›› How to Perfect Your Road Trip ›› Five Ten Five Tennies ›› How to Set a Good Example on a Mountain Bike Also online, click the “Share A Photo” tab on the top right of the menu and you’re on your way to sharing photos of your adventures with Adventure Pro readers. You just might see them show up in a future issue of our print magazine!

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OPENING SHOT

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A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

Twin brothers Corey and Patrick Wright stop for a pee break along the dirt roads of New Mexico. The brothers bought their van, Bad Larry, for multiday climbing trips like this one to Box Canyon near Socorro. photo by

Terrance Siemon

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O U T D O O R V I TA L S

Fall Adventures by

LIS Mc LAU GHLIN

in Southwestern Deserts The biomes of the Desert Southwest are ripe for adventure in the fall as temperatures cool, but they can also provide challenges for the unprepared

For the wilderness enthusiast, the deserts of the Southwest provide incredible outdoor recreation in the autumn months. The daytime temperatures cool from stifling to warm, and precipitation is scarce, which opens up opportunities for the inspired adventurer. Although these environments are home to enchanted trails, epic mountain biking and thrilling whitewater (among many other recreational activities), all desert visitors should understand the biome they are about to enter, and plan accordingly. In the Desert Southwest, one will find two different desert biome classifications: semiarid and hot and dry.

Semiarid B I O ME According to a UC Berkeley article titled "Desert Biomes", the warm, dry temperatures of the semiarid biome cool down considerably at night. This reduces flora and fauna moisture expenditure caused by perspiring and respirating. Further, it causes condensation of dew, which in turn hydrates its plant and animal inhabitants, making up for the low volume or “concentrated” rainfall. The adventurer can expect warm days, which provide little rainfall and cool nights. Deserts such as Utah’s Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, Colorado’s Mesa Verde 10 |

A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

PACKING SUGGESTIONS

Mountain Biking

Tires with good tread, spare tubes, repair kit and tools. Why? Navigating the terrain is best with tires offering great traction. The spiny nature of the plants increases the risk of flat tires.

Rafting Trips

Sand stake, liberal bow line, Bimini or umbrella. Why? The lack of sturdy trees will make for a shortage of places to tie the raft off. The best soil to sink a sand stake could be a distance from the raft.

Hiking

Sturdy hiking shoes with good ankle support. Why? The terrain can be slick with ankle-turning rocks.

National Park and New Mexico’s Chaco Canyon National Park roughly fall into this categorization. T E R R A I N The soil in a semiarid biome ranges drastically from finely textured sand to “loose rock fragments” and varies depending on location. On the mountain slope, one will encounter shallow, rocky soil with decent drainage. In the upper bajada (lower slope) one will encounter coarsely textured, rocky terrain that is well-drained, with areas “laid by rock bench.” In the lower bajada (bottom land), the soil is finely textured sand, dry (without subsurface water) and generally with “caliche,” or cemented together, particles. The plant life is brittle, spiny and thorny, with little canopy,” according to UC Berkeley.

Hot and Dry

B I O M E True to its name, the hot and dry biome — according to UC Berkeley research — is “warm throughout the year” and experiences little precipitation as the hemisphere tilts away from the earth. The autumn adventurer can expect hot days and little rainfall. Due to the lack of humidity in the atmosphere, the unblocked solar radiation makes for blistering days, and rapid heat loss makes for frigid nights. Deserts in this category include Arizona’s Grand Canyon National Park and The Great Basin of western Utah and Nevada. T E R R A I N UC Berkeley’s ‘Desert Biomes” categorizes the soil as shallow, rocky, and coarsely textured with descent drainage and no subsurface water. Due to water shortages, plant life is “’replete’ (fully supported with nutrients) with water-conserving characteristics… They tend to be small, thick and covered with a thick cuticle...”

Desert Basics No matter what recreational activity one plans to enjoy in these desert biomes, the following are absolute essentials for surviving the hazards: Dehydration BASICS 1 gallon of water per person, per day.

idea to bring plenty of water. If you’re bringing a filtration system, be sure it is effective enough to adequately protect the drinker from impurities. BASICS Intense sun exposure • Thin, long-sleeved, loose-fitting shirts offering UV protection • Thin, loose-fitting pants offering WHY? Bodily water loss due to sweating, UV protection breathing and evaporation, dehydration • Wide-brimmed, closed-crown hat causes one’s regular bodily functions to • Sunglasses break down. • Sunscreen • River trip specific: Bimini or umbrella IMPORTANT NOTE: It is best to bring pure with frame-mount for rafts drinking water. In the desert, natural “water WHY? Covering one’s skin is more effective sources are scarce and often polluted or sun protection than sunscreen. Loose brackish because of high mineral content,” clothing allows circulatory air flow, and according to R. Lynn’s "Hazards of Desert thus, keeps one cooler. Travel." Even on a river trip, it is a good

BASICS

Cold nights • Warm layers • Warm sleeping bag (if overnighting)

WHY? Any desert traveler has experienced the surprisingly drastic temperature fluctuations. Night time temperatures plummet and can even drop below freezing. Getting Lost BASICS • Detailed topographic maps of the intended recreational area (usually available at visitor centers or local businesses) • GPS (recommended)

LIS MCLAUGHLIN is an experienced whitewater boater, avid hiker and has a newly ignited passion for mountain biking. When she isn’t outside, she enjoys reading and writing. F A L L 2 0 1 9

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Twisted T R E A S U R E by

MAT T HE W SLOA N

A chilling choice to journey deep into a remote slot canyon far in the Utah backcountry delivers a warm bounty Adventure teaches us to make decisions. It doesn’t sound like much, but we live in a time of unlimited options. More choices for dinner, more choices for work, more choices for clothes, gear, music, ideologies — the sky is the limit and we get lost in indecision. True adventure forces you to break that habit. It forces you to look at your present options and hammer down the gavel.

Naked and cold, Matthew Sloan holds gear overhead as he pushes through a pool of chilly water. photo by Nicole Marines

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My girlfriend Nicole and I are speeding down a gravel road with nothing but arid grasslands on the horizon. Dust is settling on the dash, as we haven’t seen pavement for over two hours and my van seems to be rattling off the frame from the endless washboard. We’re headed toward Robber’s Roost, an exceptionally remote part of Utah just west of Canyonlands National Park in search of a slot canyon known as the Northeast Spur Fork. At around two and a half hours, we came to our first decisive moment. The road traversed over a gnarly ridge of rocks and boulders that threatened to tear out the bottom of my van. Too far from the trailhead to hike, but too far into the journey to want to give up, I rationalized that if things went awry, I could ride my mountain bike back out for help. Going at a snail’s pace, the wheels crawled up and over the rough terrain and, to my surprise, we made it over without a hiccup. Continuing on for another few miles the road continued to degrade and progress slowed. It was past noon by the time we arrived at the trailhead, which meant a much later start than we had hoped. But neither of us wanted to turn back, so we packed our headlamps and headed off. The guidebook suggested to shuttle the canyon, but lacking a second vehicle, we decided to complete it as an out-and-back,

››

Deep in the canyon, the twisted sandstone reflects a warm glow from the desert sun overhead. photo by Matt Sloan

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Twisted ›› TRE A SU RE

There’s nothing like a celebratory fire next to our home on wheels after a challenging day in the desert. photo by Matthew Sloan

Deep in the canyon, the twisted sandstone reflects a warm glow from the desert sun overhead. photo by Matthew Sloan

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A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

traversing the canyon and then hiking back along a dirt road for a total of 12 miles. The first few miles of the canyon were incredible. Beautiful rock formations with walls narrower than my shoulders in places. It was unlike anything either of us had ever seen. Choke stones and logs hung over us from past storms and the canyon continued to blow our minds as we strolled downstream. Then we found the water. The guidebook stated the canyon was relatively dry, but a wet winter left its mark. We encountered more and more water crossings. Attempting to keep our socks dry, the smooth sandstone walls became a game of strategic stemming. Contorting our bodies and smearing our hiking boots, we were enjoying the challenge and laughing at each other for any mishap that resulted in a muddy boot. For miles we climbed and crawled through twisted waterways as the canyon cut deeper into the surrounding rock. At about halfway we came to a large room with water reaching wall to wall and no way around. The water was very cold and neither one of us were keen to jump in, but we had to decide whether to cross the water or turn back and look for one of the escape routes mentioned in

Sections of the upper portion of the canyon were so narrow that passing through required turning our bodies sideways and handing ahead gear bags. photo by Nicole Marines

the guidebook. It was another one of those moments of unease, uncertain of the right choice. If we make it across, will there be more? And if we are only half way, do we even have the energy to complete the route? I decided I would test it and stripped down to my birthday suit. I lowered myself into the water letting out shrieks only a grown man in cold water can make as Nicole laughed from above. I was about waist deep in frigid, and I mean FRIGID, water and began to make my way across the pool. A third of the way across, where the water was about chest deep, I quickly retreated back to warmth. Pure determination gave me the courage to try again. Making it a few feet further than the first attempt, the water peaked at about neck deep and I began to climb up the other side. I threw my photography bag over my head and pushed through and out of the piercing water.

Near the end of the canyon, a collapsed wall creates a cavelike tunnel before opening to a sunlit room. photo by Matthew Sloan

Adrenaline going and my body tingling, I headed back in for another ice bath to retrieve our heavy bag of gear. Being a foot taller than Nicole — and the best boyfriend ever — I took one more trip carrying Nicole on my shoulders to save her from a brutal swim. As if it was by design, immediately after this pool the canyon opened up wide enough to get direct sunlight on the floor. I stood there nude absorbing all of the sun’s warmth into my shivering body, laughing with Nicole at how absurd and amazing that experience had been. After basking and putting on dry clothes, we continued into the most beautiful, photogenic part of the canyon. Twisting, corkscrewing sandstone extended above our heads and with unbelievable luck, the high summer sun was pouring warm, beautiful light into the slot, falling gently over the red rocks. It was magical. We explored and photographed, wide-eyed and bewildered by nature’s creation. Another few miles of challenging maneuvers and interesting features and we were rappelling out of the slot canyon into a magnificent room surrounded by huge cliffs. It was a glorious ending to a long and challenging, but very rewarding canyon. We continued downstream

Each decision made the journey what it was, the memories what they are and the stories that we will have forever. about a mile and turned uphill to scramble up a break in the cliff walls. After finding the dirt road paralleling the canyon, a very long couple of miles brought us back to the van thoroughly exhausted with just a faint glow of the sun on the horizon. It was a choice to venture into Robber’s Roost, into the unknown. It was a choice to not research the area on topographic maps. It was a choice to head out late in the day. And it was a choice to tackle such a long canyon. Each decision made the journey what it was, the memories what they are and the stories that we will have forever. MATTHEW SLOAN is a filmmaker and adventurer living in Golden, Colorado. He's an avid mountain biker, kayaker and skier who lives out of a converted van as much as possible with his girlfriend Nicole and pup Bika.

The author photographs a landscape unlike anything he has encountered. photo by Nicole Marines

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S A V I N G

T H E

Dark Sky The International Dark-Sky Association connects people to the stars through designated dark sky places and education Imagine going your entire life without seeing the Milky Way, or maybe you have yet to see it. That’s what the International Dark-Sky Association (IDA) is working to change. One-third of the world’s population cannot view the Milky Way from their homes, but in recent years the increase of designated dark sky places — including both towns and parks — is giving people the opportunity to experience the cosmos. by

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A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

T IONA E V E R SOLE

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Dusk settles on the Colorado River in Grand Canyon National Park. photo by Terrance Siemon

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S A V I N G

T H E

Dark Sky

Certified Dark Sky Parks are an excellent way to experience the Milky Way and the night sky. photo by Terrance Siemon

What is the IDA? The IDA’s mission is simple: to preserve and protect the nighttime environment and our heritage of dark skies through environmentally responsible outdoor lighting. As of August 2019, the IDA has certified more than 120 International Dark Sky Places across six different continents. “I think it’s kind of like a spiritual experience to be under a dark sky, and I think providing that experience to people around the world is something that we’re sorely missing,” explained Bettymaya Foott, Director of Engagement for the IDA. “Many people don’t have that experience.” While the IDA’s efforts are gaining recognition, many people still don’t know about the IDA and Dark Sky Places. “The fact is that 90% of people don’t know what dark skies are, even though (the IDA) has been around since 1988,” said Ryan Parker, chairman of the IDA Colorado Chapter. Protecting the night sky is an issue that does not get enough recognition, but light pollution affects several aspects of life. Light pollution is disruptive to wildlife and ecosystems, is harmful to human health and increases energy consumption, to name a few. These are the issues that the IDA is working to resolve. “Dark skies influence so much of our environment,” explained Adam Dalton, International Dark Sky Places program manager. Preserve and protect the nighttime environment and our heritage of dark skies through environmentally responsible outdoor lighting 20 |

A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

HOW TO ENJOY DARK SKY PARKS If you’re interested in visiting a Dark Sky Park, there are a few ways to make the most of your trip and get the full experience. “There’s these places, and they’re dark; but then for people that don’t know about night skies or about photography, what do you do in a dark sky park to enjoy it?” Foott said.

Here are a few suggestions Astrophotography: Grab your camera and shoot the stars. The only way you will get better is to practice, so why not take advantage of a certified Dark Sky Park? Foott suggests using a sturdy tripod and a wide-angle fast lens. Keep in mind that other photographers are likely shooting in the same area, so be respectful of one another. Ranger Talks: Star parties, nocturnal hikes and full moon hikes are only a few of the events put on at Dark Sky Parks. Visit the park’s website for more information on events that will be happening during your visit.

The International Dark Sky Places Program Founded in 2001, the International Dark Sky Places (IDSP) Program recognizes areas around the world that have worked to protect dark skies through practical lighting techniques while educating the public about the importance of dark skies. There are currently six different certifications in the IDSP Program: 01 International Dark Sky Communities: Organized cities and towns 02 International Dark Sky Parks: Protected areas such as national parks and monuments 03 International Dark Sky Reserves: An area consisting of multiple land ownership, where land managers have worked together to improve the natural nighttime environment. International Dark Sky Sanctuaries: The most remote places in the world that possess little to no threats to it’s dark sky quality while also having protections in place for scientific, educational, natural or cultural value. 04 Urban Night Sky Places (UNSP): Urban areas that promote dark skies within an area of significant artificial lighting that cannot qualify for other designations, but are worth recognizing for their efforts. 05 Dark Sky Friendly Developments of Distinction: Subdivisions, unincorporated neighborhoods and townships that do not meet the requirements of the International Dark Sky Community, but deserve recognition for their efforts.

SOUTHWEST DARK SKY LOCATIONS Get the best dark sky experience at a certified IDSP. “A lot of people will come to darker areas throughout the Colorado Plateau and that will be the first time they’ve ever seen the Milky Way,” Larsen said. Want to visit a Dark Sky Park or Community?

Here are a few of our top picks ARI ZO N A

CO LO R ADO

NE W ME XICO

U TAH

Flagstaff (the world’s first IDSP in 2001) Grand Canyon National Park Petrified Forest National Park Sedona

Black Canyon of the Gunnison Great Sand Dunes National Park & Preserve Norwood Silvercliffe & Westcliffe

Capulin Volcano National Monument Chaco Canyon National Historic Park Cosmic Campground Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument

Arches National Park Canyonlands National Park Goblin Valley State Park Rainbow Bridge National Monument

The Importance of the Certification

What’s Next

There are several reasons for parks and communities to consider applying for an IDSP certification. First, the certification helps places to reduce light pollution. “What’s really encouraging is that it’s the only pollution that goes away at the speed of light,” Dalton said. “Other (forms of) pollution can take decades to reduce.” Second, proper lighting strategies benefit the entire community — from your neighbor to the wildlife inhabiting the same area. “We become more mindful of the environment and that everything is connected and that what we do affects ecosystems and also affects humanity,” explained Aubrey Larsen, acting coordinator for the Colorado Plateau Dark Sky Cooperative. It’s important to understand that a dark sky does not mean a dark ground, but rather that a community adopts fully sustainable and community-friendly lighting standards. Parker likes to use television host Mister Rogers as an example on how we ought to live. “My platform is ‘good neighbor living through responsible lighting,’” Parker said. “And part of that is not only just living with humans, but living with nature.” And third, specific locations could also benefit potentially from astrotourism, a form of tourism that uses dark skies to improve the economy through stargazing programs and events. “It’s a way (communities) can have sustainable tourism in more remote places that have been economically disadvantaged or have been hit by a boom-and-bust economy,” Dalton said. The best part is that through improvements made to nighttime skies in order to receive the certification, towns and communities are able to use the resources at hand — the stars and the night sky — to generate revenue. “Westcliffe and Silvercliffe brought in over one million dollars in additional revenue last year because of astro- and eco-tourism,” Parker said.

While many individuals still don’t know about the IDA and its work, recognition of the IDSP Program is on the rise. “Even in the last three to four years we’ve seen a dramatic increase in awareness of the issue as well as an interest in the designation side,” Dalton said. While 20 certifications were handed out in 2018, 20 have already been awarded this year — with four months to go. “At any given time, I usually have over 200 active applications,” Dalton said. As the applications continue to pour in, the IDA is beginning to see new places receiving dark sky certifications. For the first time ever Croatia, Taiwan and South Africa are receiving recognition for their efforts in protecting dark skies. “We’re seeing new places with a diverse, worldwide geography applying, and successfully applying for the program, so that’s something that’s also inspiring,” Dalton said.

What You Can Do If you are interested in helping the IDA and their dark sky initiatives, there are several ways you can get involved. The easiest way to contribute is to donate to the IDA. You can also get involved with a state IDA chapter. If your state does not currently have a chapter, consider starting one. Any little act helps. Reconsider the way you use lighting in everyday life, talk to your friends, family and neighbors about dark skies and spread the word in your community or simply visit an IDA-certified Dark Sky Park and attend one of their dark sky programs. Finally, you can help a park or community get certified. “Help with the application process for a community, park or even spearhead a park or community where you live or within your area,” Dalton suggests.

Desert View Watchtower in Grand Canyon National Park offers spectacular views from the rim, both during the day and at night. photo by Terrance Siemon

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BUMPED AROUND in Beautiful Places The backcountry roads of the San Juan Mountains connect history, scenery and thrills for some of the best jeeping on the planet

JE N N Y JOHN STO N

My parents like to tell the story that my first sentence was a string of perfectly formed expletives from my car seat while bumping around in a Jeep high above Silverton. I’ve been being bumped around on backroads in beautiful places since before I could walk. And I love it. Now that I have my own children, I hope to impart onto them my passion for the beauty of the backcountry bumpy roads. I can now empathize with my parents, realizing what they had to endure to get our family out the door and into the Great Outdoors. Now, on any given weekend, my family loads up as if we’re preparing to survive for a month in the wilderness. We pack everything except the pack-and-play and head out. And we don’t always end up at our intended destination, but the adventure is as beautiful as the scenery along the way. We’ve learned that the journey is more important than the destination. As a home base, Durango offers jeeping enthusiasts the unique opportunity to take off in any direction, on any given day and find a trail to match your adventure level. From the Alpine Loop to Black Bear Pass and everything in between, there’s something for every dirt-road enthusiast. “If you were to explore all of the jeep roads in the area near Silverton, it would take you seven full days,” said Alexis Deyoung of San Juan Backcountry Adventures.

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BUMPED AROUND in Beautiful Places

Driving through the backcountry is a historical journey through a bygone era

TOP: The author and family make their way up Stoney Pass and encounter some late season snowbanks. MIDDLE: The author’s daughter, Reese Johnston, is all smiles after getting out to explore Cunningham Gulch high above Silverton. BOTTOM: Exploring the jeepin’ trails near Eureka above Silverton.

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Originally built by the gold and silver miners who came to the San Juan Mountains in the 1800s, these roads remain and serve as a reminder that abundance and adventure can still be found in the mountains in the form of memories and solitude. Whether you are a local with your own Jeep or a visitor renting one for the day from one of the many area outfitters, adventure awaits. “We see a lot of people from big cities who are drawn to Jeeping in these mountains because they get to experience ghost towns, waterfalls and wildflowers that aren’t an everyday sight at home,” Deyoung said. Driving through the backcountry is a historical journey through a bygone era as the Jeep routes connect the remains of mines and ghost towns. They freckle the landscape and serve as a reminder of the abundance and struggle that made our mountain communities what they are today. The landscape allows drivers to step back in time and explore their surroundings from a time long past. Whether you are afraid to look down the steep mountain slopes or are simply keeping your eyes trained ahead, the scenery is guaranteed to take your breath away. Mother Nature can change the topography in a split second. As we have witnessed this

year with the epic snowfall and subsequent avalanches, once familiar places have become an altered and repainted landscape, causing road closures and forcing Jeepers to explore different places. “Even with the road closures we are still seeing good numbers of people wanting to explore the backcountry. People are just readjusting their adventures and are actually exploring more of the gulches close to home that they would typically overlook,” Deyoung said, speaking of early season road closures which many backcountry enthusiasts encountered. As the season progresses into fall, most of the jeep roads are open or opening. “With the exception of Eureka still remaining closed, virtually all other roads are now open,” explained Eric Loyer of Silverton Rock Pirates. “People wanting to access the full Alpine Loop can still get to Lake City by taking the alternative route.” To take the alternative route, Jeepers need to follow Gladstone to Hurricane, then to California and on to Cinnamon Passes to ultimately end up in Lake City. “Only pockets of snow are remaining along the way and we are expecting a great second half of the season and an absolutely spectacular fall,” Loyer added.

Reese Johnston enjoying the view after a hike to Sloan Lake. Sloan Lake can be reached by jeeping to American Basin then hiking up the Handies Peak trail. photos by Jenny Johnston

The vast San Juan National Forest that surrounds us is filled with riches, and all of us who enter the wilds are treasure seekers in some form, mining for experiences to enrich our souls. We may be seeking different riches than those of a century past, but even if all you are looking for is solitude, it’s important to remember that even silence is golden. JENNY JOHNSTON is a third generation Durango local and outdoor writer. Look for her and her family on your next adventure into the San Juan Mountains.

FORGET HOTELS. WE’VE GOT BACKCOUNTRY VIEWS FROM BED.

VISIT US AT

(970) 903-9136

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Mapping A Q&A with Grand Canyon advocate and author Tom Martin provides a glimpse into the process of making a river map and guide for the wildest river in the Southwest

A few weeks before my first trip down the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon, I picked up a couple of books for our trip. One was a guide that I would spend countless hours reading, watching the topography lines shift and change from one page to the next as the pages guided us down the 225-mile river section from Lees Ferry to Diamond Creek. This guide provided information about the rapids and terrain ahead as well as historical, ecological and geological facts, including points of interest. Those who have taken a private trip down the Grand Canyon might recognize the guide with its

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A NATURAL WONDER by

T ION A

E V E R SOLE

topographic map cover and bold blue lettering that reads, “Guide to the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon: Lees Ferry to South Cove.” I wanted to learn more about the work it takes to make such an in-depth guide to one of the world’s natural wonders, as experienced from the river. So I arranged to meet Tom Martin at his home in Flagstaff, Arizona, where we talked about the Grand Canyon over a cup of tea. Here is what he had to say with regard to the river map and guide.

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A work in progress, Tom Martin points out the revisions to one of his and Duwaine Whittisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; river guides. photos by Terrance Siemon

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Mapping

A NATURAL WONDER

TOP: The sun sets on Grand Canyon, a place that Martin holds dear to his heart. BOTTOM: River guides are constantly updated by Martin as new features and park regulations occur over time. photos by Terrance Siemon

Tell me a little about yourself and your involvement with the Grand Canyon. “(I) went to the Grand Canyon when I was probably five or six, and the Grand Canyon became an extension of the place I grew up. In the late ’60s, we went in at Diamond Creek and boated out to Temple Bar. And then in ’71, I came in at Lees Ferry and went out to Diamond Creek. So, I was a couple of days into my 13th year by the time I completed that first run of Grand Canyon. And again, it was like an old friend — someone that you know and respect and can just really inspire you, and I’ve never looked back. So these are fortunate events that happen in people’s lives where they can anchor into a resource somewhere, anywhere on the planet. We as a species will do this, and I’m just very fortunate that it happened to be the Grand Canyon.” When did you start making river maps, and what sparked the cause? Martin began by discussing the history of Grand Canyon maps, starting with the first Spanish maps of 1600 and following up with the Johnson map of 1860. “And you’re like ‘Wow, is he going to go through every map? I just want to know about the river guide!’” Martin explains that John Wesley Powell was using the Johnson map when he made his infamous trip down through Grand Canyon.

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“So as river runners started to increase their presence on the river, the next big boost for them was the 1923 USGS Survey that made a profile and a plan of the river with contour lines. And after that, the age of exploration was over. And so, what do you got? Well if you know how to read contour lines, you can use a piece of paper as a tool to look around where you are.” Martin’s map-making partner, Duwaine Whittis, came up with the river map concept to have the river go from the bottom of the page to the top. This makes it easier for the person reading the map to look downstream and have a better understanding on where they are. Whittis’ early maps did not have any text, however. So Martin reached out to Whittis with his idea to include text into his maps, and the guide we know today was born. “And Duwaine has since run with that for all kinds of Western rivers and it’s been an honor to work with him on the San Juan and the Canyonlands River maps, and we just did the Arkansas and of course the Grand Canyon. It’s just been so much fun to work with him on that. One of the things we learned is if we can put a photograph in the map, and I've never been there but I can go, 'Oh, that rock down there? Here it is!' At least now I know I'm on the right page. And then if I can invest in the text a little bit, maybe I can figure out right where I am.” What is the process for making your maps? “What you do, is you need a real smart guy, and you need to do what they tell you to do. So Duwaine is a smart guy and he loves maps and he’s a GIS wizard. So he’s able to take a 7.5-minute quad map and make it so the shadows are a little deeper — it almost looks 3D. Again, if I don’t know how to read a topographic map and you’re going to open up a page for me to look at the thing, how is that map going to work in my brain? There’s a cliff over there, the canyonside, there’s a rapid down there; how is that going to relate to the paper? So you need to pull that together. Then you actually need to go out, and do a little research, and for us typically people are like, ‘Oh, you get to get on a boat and go rafting!’

What does ‘do it yourself’ recreation do for people? It can empower you.

No, we walk. I have cliffed out myself. I have been almost run over by cars because we’re walking. Rattlesnakes and ticks and all kinds of stuff. To get a sense of how a river works, you want to walk it. And the reason you want to walk it is because you can stop and look around and count the rocks and see how the current works and figure out how rapids work. So onsite exploration on shore I think is a very big component to how river guides work. You can’t go on and on paragraph after paragraph about a rapid. You’ve gotta synthesize it. I’m hoping that’s what you (find) in the river maps that Duwaine and I do. It’s brief. It’s to the point. It gives you just enough data, just enough of what you need, and not more. Maybe it leaves you with a little hunger for a little more knowledge. But it got you through. If I just run trip after trip after trip on the river, I’m like a horse wearing blinders. And all I see is river-right and river-left and everything in the middle, for a lot of the rivers that we deal with, we need to get out and go hiking. You need to figure out the

resource that the river flows through. And that’s what can take a lifetime.” What do you hope people take from your maps. What’s the value? “That question is so important. Why do I think people should get in a boat, and journey through Grand Canyon, doing it themselves? What does ‘do it yourself’ recreation do for people? It can empower you. I think that ‘do it yourself’ recreation, whether it’s river running or ice climbing or horse riding or backpacking, these things help us to realize we can survive the day-to-day challenges that will face us for a lifetime. That’s what I hope people get out of Grand Canyon. They’re not relying on somebody else. They’re part of a team — they feel like they’re a part of a team. A small group traveling in a big place where the elders teach the juniors and people work together in a place that talks to us in our DNA. That’s what’s important. That’s what I think I would like to have happen there.”

Martin at his home in Flagstaff, Arizona. photo by Terrance Siemon

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BEHIND THE LENS

camera

Nikon D800

focal length

50mm

iso

800

exposure

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IN JULY OF 2017 I was on assignment for Adventure Pro Magazine to get a photo of Kilian Jornet racing the Hardrock 100 at the summit of Handies Peak. That morning I tracked Jornet’s position and figured he would reach the summit around 11:30 a.m. Throughout the morning, storm clouds gathered in the distance, and by late morning they were bearing down on Handies. I was one of a handful of photographers on the summit. Radio chatter announced that Jornet (in first place with a broken collar bone) was about 15 minutes from the top. Some people left, while a few of us stayed at the summit. In those final minutes, I heard a click, like fingers

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TERRANCE SIEMON

1/250

aperture

f/4.0

snapping. Then a spark came off the top of my head, followed by a white flash that completely surrounded me. The sound of the thunder was deafening. I felt a jolt travel through my arms and out my hands. To this day, I have no idea how I survived. And then came the hail, just as Jornet was heading my way. I had to collect my bearings and retreated from the summit to a scree field 50 yards below. I laid down, and threw my rain fly over me. Right then he ran by — cheerful even with one arm dangling. I managed to snap a few shots of him from the ground — including the shot pictured — and then hike down the mountain, soaked from the pouring rain and still very confused about what had just happened.

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HORSESHOE BEND on the Colorado River can be a zoo, with ridiculous crowds. For this image, after waiting in line to get to the "spot," I had to work quickly so I wasn't that guy hoarding the good light. I took a few shots and moved out of the way. To get the shot I wanted – a sunburst above the horizon – I needed to create a composite of two images. I took one image exposed properly for the river and foreground. The other was taken from the same spot but I needed to use a photography trick to get the sunburst. When shooting the sun, the smaller the

camera

Nikon D800

focal length

aperture the more sunburst you will get. An aperture setting of f/16 or f/22 allows for only a pinhole of light to reach the image sensor. It worked, creating the effect I was hoping for. The sun resting on the horizon accentuates the burst. The downside to shooting at a small exposure is that everything else in the frame is underexposed. For this image to work, the first image needed the foreground properly exposed. With that accomplished, I stacked the two images to create the final image. For composites like this you need to use a stationary tripod to keep the same composition for both photographs.

14mm

iso

400

exposure

1/125 seconds

aperture

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Nolan’s

FOR MERE MORTALS

Camping Along A HighEndurance Race Route by

RYAN K EMP FE R

For backpackers looking to raise the bar — really high — welcome to the Nolan’s 14, a route popular with high-endurance runners that links 14 Colorado summits above 14,000 feet elevation. It’s a get-dirty, body-aching haul that starts near Leadville, the highest city in the United States, and meanders along the valley to Salida, traversing the peaks and ridges that make up the backbone of the Sawatch — one of the most scenic mountain ranges in Colorado. While runners can usually finish the roughly 90-mile route in 60 hours or less, my girlfriend and I slowed it down, enjoying the route as a seven-day backpacking experience without the necessity to reach every summit. Creating memories and refreshing our spirits took precedence. To keep this adventure fun and stress-free, it’s worth emphasizing one of the more important aspects of this excursion: navigation. If you are not familiar with route-finding using GPS, maps and compass, this trip may not be for you. Along the way there are wellmarked trails and roads, but you will not be following an established route from start to finish. You will leave the trail numerous times, and it’s up to you to stay on course. You will also be finding your own campsites each day, at which we recommend practicing Leave No Trace ethics to avoid tarnishing the pristine environment. Please refrain from building a campfire unless the campsite has a preexisting fire ring.

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Chris Kassar ascends Mount Belford with a glimpse of Hope Pass in the background. photo by Ryan Kempfer

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Nolan’s

FOR MERE MORTALS

Friendly marmots witnessed our journey and kept us company. This fella popped out on Missouri Mountain. photos by Ryan Kempfer

LET’S GET GOING. The Highline Trail near the Leadville Fish Hatchery will get you started toward Mount Massive (14,421’), the first summit of the Nolan’s 14. From the summit of Massive, you will descend on the DAY: North Half Moon Trail toward Mount Heading into Elkhead Basin – or, simply put, Elbert (14,443’), the tallest peak in paradise – find a campsite within the willows Colorado. After a round of welland creeks and take some weight off your deserved high-fives on the summit, follow shoulders. It’s a great place to recoup before the steep southern trail off the summit (Black launching a climb of Missouri Cloud Trail) until you reach treeline Mountain (14,067’). The summit was a near Independence Pass and pitch camp DAY: highlight, where we had the pleasure somewhere in your comfort zone. of hanging out with the marmots and the occasional mountain goat. To officially follow the Nolan’s 14 route, We sat, lingering to breathe in the beauty and the trek winds up Independence Pass to the reminisce about the journey and contemplate south fork of Clear Creek Road (aka the days ahead. Sitting at 14,000 feet, the La Plata trailhead). This route DAY: beholden to the mercy of Nature and all her connects to La Plata Peak (14,361’) and awesomeness, raises an intense appreciation over to Huron Peak (14,003’). However, that we covet more than anything. I suggest leaving camp and following Descending back to camp is a loose slippery the Collegiate West (Colorado Trail) starting at challenge — heads up, and move slowly. Willis Gulch and hiking over Hope Pass down Missouri Mountain and Mount Belford tower into Clear Creek Reservoir. This route provides over camp, where we attempted to count the more trail and a break along moderate terrain stars on our starry night. It was impossible. before tackling what lies ahead.

After a few cups of coffee, pack up and start your day for the back-to-back fourteener hikes of Mount Belford (14,197’) and Mount Oxford (14,153’). Looking down into the valley of Pine Creek, you will notice just how far Pine Creek drains into the mighty Arkansas River. On the descent, take a moment to check out Bedrock Falls. A splash of this Rocky Mountain water on a sun-kissed face feels so damn good. NOW IT GETS EXCITING. Ascending the north shoulder of From the start you will get your DAY: Mount Harvard (14,420’) is a steep fair share of switchbacks. As you cross challenge and it doesn’t let up on the creek about a mile up, notice the the descent into Horn Fork Basin. massive avalanche path that Mother Mountain goats and marmots were Nature created this spring. Although it appears again our companions, the best kind. the forest has been devastated, new growth We chose to camp at Kroenke Lake where has filled in among the toppled forest, we rewarded ourselves with a cold skinny dip. including an abundance of Rocky Mountain Feeling the long days in our feet and back, the Columbine, Colorado’s state flower. It’s truly cold water brewed in these high summits made amazing to see what follows an enormous it all worth it. avalanche, turning destruction into beauty. Fishing in this lake is fairly good, which Breathe, and take in what’s around you. Feel could put dinner over your fire. Find one of the the breeze on your dirty cheeks and embrace pre-existing campsites with a view of Mount the pleasure of the high country. Columbia (14,073’) for the perfect lullaby.

We slowed down in this section because it is just simply magical, replete with alpine lakes, waterfalls and large open spaces. DAY: As you come off the Colorado Divide Trail take the .2 mile detour to County Road 390 (Clear Creek Reservoir Road) and backtrack to the Missouri Mountain Trailhead.

TOP: A view from camp across a beaver pond prior to the ascent of Missouri Mountain. MIDDLE: Looking west from the summit of Mount Oxford provides views of Ice Mountain and, in the far distance, the Three Apostles. BOTTOM: Pine Creek Basin and Mount Harvard (left) from the summit of Mount Belford, looking south.

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Mt. Massive

LEADVILLE

FINISH Fish Hatchery

Mt. Elbert

At daybreak, I recommend heading south to the Colorado Trail (Segment 13). It’s easy to follow with a gradual elevation gain, passing under the mighty Mount DAY: Yale (14,196’) and Mount Princeton (14,197’). Take your time, enjoy sharing this section of trail with your partner rather than scrambling to those high peaks (unless that’s your mission, of course). As the day comes to a close, you’re near enough to civilization that you can opt to treat yourself to the relaxing, healing waters of Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort, which has a general store, restaurant and lodging. Afterward, hike or hitch a ride up the 2 miles to Bootleg Campground to end another great day along the Nolan’s 14.

We awoke to the smell of neighboring campfires and the sound of chirping birds. Our final day had arrived to this adventure-of-a-lifetime. Over coffee DAY: we discussed the Mount Antero (14,269’) approach, and decided to head up Baldwin Creek Road toward the summit of Antero. After a long hike sharing the road with Jeeps and ATVs, Mount Antero’s magnificent summit came into view to the east, bringing us to the question of the day: A short hike over the summit or a descent to Browns Lake? Proceeding to the lake and finishing this amazing trip today was all I could think of. Off we went.

At this point, we Granite Mt. Oxford 285 were feeling burned & Mt. Belford La Plata Peak out, but arriving at the 24 lake provided a muchneeded boost. There is Huron Peak Antero something about a high Missouri Mountain 24 Junction alpine lake that clears Mt. Columbia the thoughts, vision and Mt. Yale & Mt. Harvard Buena perspective – and inspires — Vista so up we went, shooting for the 285 top of Mount Shavano (14,229’), skipping Mt. Princeton Tabeguache Peak (14,155’). We may have had only a couple more hours of sunlight to drive us to the top, but we also had the anticipation of the descent of Shavano — Nathrop Mt. Shavano & our final descent — awaiting the other side. Tabeguache Peak Mt. Antero At the summit of Shavano, we witnessed the most amazing sunset imaginable – reds, purples, yellows – filling the surroundings. At the saddle below, we hit the trail and the START colors faded to grey. We paused, reminiscing Blank Cabin 285 how just months ago we were clicking into ski boots from this very spot. Headlamps Monarch on, descending to the valley floor, we were SALIDA 50 filled with love for one another and for Poncha nature’s amazing ways – and for the sight of Springs our car that we had not seen in six days. RYAN KEMPFER is a photographer with a passion for the outdoors. As an avid skier, hiker and biker, Ryan uses his photography to inspire people to cherish Mother Nature and her creations. Ryan spends his time skiing the Sawatch Range with his girlfriend, Chris, and their dog Nala.

Ascending Mount Belford: avalanche debris litters many of the trails along the Nolan’s 14 route.

Lost& Found A trail runner heads into an extensive Utah canyon equipped with minimal gear and a plan to complete a several-day loop in two days. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s called fastpacking. by

BRANDON MAT HIS

The author during a similar but longer mission outside Bluff, Utah. photo by Bryan Bagdol

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It wasn’t that I was lost, just really not sure of where I was.

TWELVE HOURS EARLIER I scurried through a cedar forest and dropped into a lush green oasis the likes I had never seen: a desert canyon sanctuary cut by eons of flash floods, wind and water, now beaming with life. Route finding was problematic, and the terrain was trying. I wasn’t sure what I was getting myself into, and I sure didn’t know what the hell I was doing. I had read that it took three to five days to complete a loop. I figured I could do it in two. My few belongings filled a vest-style pack: a minimal tent, a down quilt, an inflatable mattress, and an improvised travel kit. For meals I carried about two and a half pounds of food I could rehydrate with water boiled in a titanium cup on a stove that weighed less than an ounce. I also carried a compass, headlamp powered by a watch battery, a titanium spoon, carbon fiber trekking poles, a small water filter and soft half liter flask, along with a plastic water bottle and an ultra-light one-liter foldable canteen. I wore paper thin synthetic clothing with a 3-ounce jacket stuffed in my pack just in case. I donned a desert-style sun hat straight out of the Foreign Legion. I had seen a few groups of backpackers heading on their own journeys, catching their silhouettes backlit by the morning sun. Some were tidy and quick, others were clumsy. For the most part, they made for odd-shaped figures. Topheavy forms with stick legs, hunched over under the burden they carried. On some, items dangled from their packs, catching on trees, clinking and clanking with every step like windchimes made from pots and pans. I slipped on my light pack and started running. It’s called fastpacking. It’s not always fast, and there’s not much

BOTTOM LEFT: Trying to keep the trail on a densely overgrown canyon floor. photo by Bryan Bagdol BOTTOM RIGHT: The view from within during a fastpacking mission through canyon country. photo by Brandon Mathis

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Lost& Found

“You could be out of here in a few miles,” she said. “Or you could go back down that way. You know what that’s like.” packing, but it’s a way to move deftly through terrain, affording extra time to ponder when called for. A few hours in, I settled by a shallow pool and scooped cool water into my soft flask filter. Per usual, I focused my attention to the potholes. Horsehair worms look like what they’re called, curling their way around potholes and creeks — small, but big enough to gross you out. Of course, the fairy shrimp, mosquito larva and other things darting around raised an eyebrow. Ephemeral pools like this one hold galaxies of living organisms. Back on route, navigation in Utah’s wild canyon country can be tricky. It seems simple enough to stay between the walls towering overhead, but the density of the vegetation, endless tributary canyons and side-hike distractions all create a maze of the mind. Add the climax of endorphins of the so-called runner’s high and judgment can fly out the window. My plan was simple. Follow one canyon to another, hang a left, find a nice spot to eat a glorious meal and sleep. Over the course of the day I wisped through the landscape up and over obstacles, meandering gullies, traversing walls and running with unbound satisfaction. Spiny lizards stole across the trail before me, birds exploded from the trees. Dragonflies buzzed by and hummingbirds whistled passed. I did have a small section of a map I cut from its entirety, but never considered the grave affect my sweat would have on it. It weakened into a soft tissue wad. The more I referred to it, the more it fell apart. The canyon was in bloom mile after mile. Hanging gardens, crystalline pools. Beehive cactus. Lupine. Desert globe mallow, fearless hummingbirds. Natural arches. Animal tracks. Bear tracks. Cub tracks. Black bear from nearby mountains are well adapted to these canyons. The idea of running, literally, faceto-face into a mamma bear and her cub was terrifying. Doing so in a narrowing passage was even worse. Navigating a treacherous route around a pour off, haphazard points where the canyon floor can drop a few feet to a few stories over an edge, it hit me. This isn’t right. I had 38 |

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missed my turn. A freaky anxiety set in. It wasn’t lost that I was lost, just really not sure where I was. The walls, easily rising 500 feet above me, tiered as they stepped down to the canyon floor. A chorus of tree frogs echoed, reminding me to load up on water for the camp I was about to make. I started climbing a bench to find a place to sleep where a bear and her cub would not be. ONE THOUSAND CALORIES TO NORMAL It’s called bonking. Depleted glycogen stores in your muscles and your liver, and there’s nothing left. Period. First the body goes, then the mind. The antidote is food. I settled on a small shelf about 30 feet above the canyon floor. The golden hour of sunset became shades of blue grey and the temperature plummeted. I should have been snuggled in a 32-degree-rated down quilt by then. Instead I was exposed, and the body’s natural evaporative cooling system that kept me cool all day was working against me. Using a trekking pole for the apex of the tent, I fashioned the perfect stick for the foot. Barely enough room for one person, I sat up in the doorway and wet a handkerchief for a bird bath, the grit and grime exfoliating my skin as I wiped it off. I nearly hyperventilated inflating my air mattress, wrapped myself in my quilt and opened my ziplock meal pouch. Some kind of lasagna, it was the best thing I had ever eaten. Settling down, I laughed out loud. The tree frogs sang me to sleep.

LEFT: The author nabbing some invigorating cold water at a small pour off. photo by Bryan Bagdol TOP: The author’s ultra-light kit weighs just over eight pounds, not including two pounds of food and 16 ounces of water. photo by Brandon Mathis

LEFT: The author takes a break at a water source on day two of his excursion in the canyons south of the Dark Canyon Wilderness. BOTTOM RIGHT: Water is a precious resource in canyon country, and a key to moving fast and light. The more there is on the ground, the less you have to carry. The author came across this cascade during his journey, pausing to quench his thirst and capture the scene. BOTTOM LEFT: Typical canyon country terrain in Southeast Utah. photos by Brandon Mathis

Later, after almost two liters of water, I stumbled around the terrace at some ungodly hour. When I saw the starlight in the night sky, I was awestruck. It was one of the most unflawed things I had ever seen. I blasted awake at 5:13 a.m. Birdsong bounced around the canyon corridor. Unnoticed the night before, cuts and scrapes on my legs had grown inflamed and irritated. A blister the size of a quarter had formed on the bottom of my right foot from the incessant sand I fought for 20 miles the day before. Of all the things I left behind, at least I had instant coffee and creamer. For nine minutes I basked in a French Vanilla morning bliss. It felt natural to run. After an hour, I came across a party camped at the wide confluence I missed. I slowed to soften my footsteps — it was still dawn, after all. I noticed their accoutrement, mostly on one side of the site. Tents, a small table. Several lanterns. Water bottles, a thermos. Two small foldable chairs. Blankets. Boots. Cooking sets with various pots and pans. Pump-handled water filters. I paid such close attention I was startled when a woman sitting up in a faded sleeping bag spoke to me. “Morning,” she said, “where’re you coming from?” It was a loaded question. “I got a little turned around,” I said. “You been out all night? “I had a nice little camp,” I said. I took notice of her small kit: a nice yet well-used sleeping bag, her beat-up poles, patched mattress. A threadbare rucksack. Her boots were traveled, her mature face as featured as the rock around her. She slept in just the bag, no shelter, under the stars. Directly across on a bedrock slab others woke to see the quiet

commotion, their heads emerging from peeling zippers and out from layers of superfluous stuff. They stared at me, baffled, taking in my cuts, my funny little running shoes, my grimy appearance and my tiny pack. I reconfirmed the only two ways out, up a few short miles though a side tributary canyon, or all the way back out the main canyon system. “You could be out of here in a few miles,” she said. “Or you could go back down that way. You know what that’s like.” It was an unusual, brief encounter. The entire previous 36 hours had morphed into a bizarre romp through a fairytale dreamscape of natural wander spiked with mental and physical challenges. The feeling of being lost was an eye opener. The bare minimum comforts of a hasty camp was rewarding, and the choice of what to do next. A kind of crossroads that she somehow was offering me. “Thanks,” I said. We nodded on a strange level of understanding one another, how meaningful it is to be out here — an unspoken appreciation that would have been cluttered by words. I stepped into a gentle stride and headed back into the canyon. BRANDON MATHIS is the marketing director at Backcountry Experience in Durango, Colorado, where he lives with his wife Bee and Juneau, an energetic and cover-stealing terrier. An ever-inquisitive outdoor enthusiast, Mathis began trail running as a way to explore the region more intimately. In this issue, he writes about fastpacking, a blend of trail running and back packing. “With fastpacking, your runs are no longer interrupted by things like meals and sleeping,” Mathis says. “Plus, it’s a good way to maximize only having two days off.” F A L L 2 0 1 9

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GEAR BIN

FA RM TO F E E T Moab Sock Farm to Feet is recognizing our Southwest region by adding the Moab sock to its Outdoor Community Collection. The Moab joins the Collection of celebrated communities rooted in the outdoors, including the Denver, and in October the Bozeman (Montana) and North Conway (New Hampshire). In March 2020, the Collection becomes complete with the Moab and its distinguished design of a sandstone archway resembling the namesake features of Arches National Park. Farm to Feet uses only homegrown materials, manufacturing and workers. It’s all-American, including its entire supply chain, ensuring quality materials and products with minimal impact on the environment. The Moab, as all other socks in the Collection, is made with ultrasoft, 19.5-micron U.S. merino wool on a 200-needle knitting machine. They feature a seamless toe closure, a full-density cushioning foot-bottom and are offered in lightweight ¾-crew height. The Moab was not available in large sizes in time for our testing, but smaller samples arrived providing a look at the socks and a feel for their quality. The socks did fit the feet of the tester’s daughters, each of whom wore the socks on two outings. “I really like the colors and they’re super cute,” said the 16-year-old tester. “And they’re really good to hike in because they’re so comfortable.” “They’re really comfortable,” added the 12-year-old. www.farmtofeet.com FARM TO FEET MOAB

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A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

H IGH CAM P Flasks Firelight 750ml Flask Cheering to adventure has raised many ‘a spirit but High Camp Flasks distilled the concept and built it into an all-in-one flask with two tumblers. Introducing the Firelight 750 Flask, a sensible solution to transporting and consuming favorite spirits in the outdoors. But more than that, the products at High Camp Flasks acknowledge that distilled, aged libations deserve more respect than getting swigged out of a plastic bottle and that plastic and glass bottles should be kept out of the outdoors. Cheers to that! The Firelight 750 Flask is a tidy complement of the 750 milliliter flask and two 6-Shooter Tumblers. The tumblers with 6-Shooter Barrel Grooves for a no-slip grip fit seamlessly onto the base and top of the Firelight and remain secure with High Camp’s thread-free Magnetic Locking System. The flask will fit the contents of an entire bottle of wine or a fifth of your favorite spirit, shared in 11 ounce quantities in the tumblers. Beverages stay cold for hours thanks to the integrated silicone ring in the screw-top flask lid and the double-wall vacuum insulation. High Camp Flasks has a second product, the Halflight 375 Flask, a flask with one tumbler that halves everything the Firelight has to offer but with all the same quality and innovation. www.highcampflasks.com FIRELIGHT 750 FLASK

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KATH M A N DU Litehaul 38L Pack

The Litehaul 38L transitions easily from a travel bag to a briefcase or shoulder bag and — in a zip! — into a backpack. Our test of the Litehaul included four flights, several meetings and a climb of a Colorado summit! We started by using the pack as a suitcase, loading the main compartment and using the sleeves and pockets for smaller items. A laptop slipped into the side-access sleeve. For quick access, the top pocket fit sunglasses, keys and smaller essentials. The inner pockets fit toiletries, shoes and separates. To get down to business, the pack was emptied but for the laptop and meeting materials. For the summit ascent, we unzipped the back panel to release the Air Pod System harness and tuck-away hip belt. The back panel cannot zip back into place with the harness and hip belt employed. However, flattening the unzipped panel across the back before putting on the pack alleviated any bunching issues. For the climb, the pack was loaded on the light end for a day trip, and was comfortable for the entire ascent and descent. A heavy load may have had a different result, but this is primarily a travel bag, not a backpack. It performed beautifully. www.kathmanduoutdoor.com KATHMANDU LITEHAUL 38L

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S I E RRA DE S IG N S

TRAILFO RK Backpacking Meals

Clearwing 3 Tent A cramped tent can put a squeeze on an overnight outdoor adventure. With nearly vertical sidewalls the Sierra Designs Clearwing 3 tent reaches 46 inches from the floor to create the kind of head space that’s often lacking in the interior of a lightweight backpacking tent. At ground level, the tent’s spacious floor (93” x 71”) is a dream for three sleepers. The steep-walled tent assembles with three aluminum poles and is fully freestanding, designed with hoop poles over the two doors to create the vertical sidewalls. The tent includes six guy out loops, four guylines and 10 stakes to anchor the tent in strong winds. Two vestibules and a full-coverage rainfly extend the protected coverage area to 9.9 square feet, which provides the extra room you need for easy access to footwear and other items stored just outside the tent. Two fly vents, one above each door, provide additional tent ventilation when needed. The body of the tent is constructed of 15D Nylon No-See-Um Mesh and the floor and full-coverage fly of 68D 190T Polyester Taffeta. The entire tent, including the poles and stakes, weighs 5 lbs 3 oz, and packs small enough to fit into its burrito bag. www.sierradesigns.com

So good that we would eat these meals at home For any overnight or multiday trip, you’ll want to keep TrailFork on your meal radar. TrailFork is a women-run company based in Boulder, Colorado. Founded in 2017, TrailFork’s primary goal is to make backpacking meals that are both nutritional and easy on the planet. All of TrailFork’s packaging is 100% compostable, right down to the sticker. And 1% of their annual sales goes toward 1% for the Planet in support of the company’s favorite place — Cedar Mesa, Utah. The moment we tore open the packet containing the Unwrapped Burrito and let the spiced aroma of the contents hit our noses, we knew that we were in for a treat. Quick and easy, a packet takes less than 15 minutes to prepare from start to finish, and is the perfect size for sharing. While other backpacking meals can be prepared within the package, TrailFork’s meals require a plate or bowl due to the compostable nature of the packaging. But if it means working toward less waste and truly enjoying the food we are eating, we don’t mind having to rinse out a bowl. TrailFork offers a unique variety of meal options — from breakfast to entrees — that include vegetarian, vegan and glutenfree selections. www.mytrailfork.com

Start a fire in any condition and at any altitude with the UCO Titan Fire Striker, a survival tool equipped with a stainless steel striker and a large ferrocerium rod ready to fire off 20,000 strikes (at 5,400 degrees Fahrenheit) over its lifetime. The striker is actually a multi-tool with eight functions, including a bottle opener, screwdriver, four hex sizes and the striker itself. The striker connects to the rod with a loop of a paracord lanyard and detaches with a Rapid Release Connector, which is basically a tiny quick-release carabiner. Weighing 3.4 ounces and an easy fit into any emergency or survival kit, the Titan is at the ready for lighting campfires, gas stoves and barbecues, and can be used as an emergency signal. In our test, we learned that a little practice is not only necessary to consistently create sparks but to put the rod in shape for sparking. Once the coated surface of the rod was shaved off and a section flattened, the striking process got easier and fire-producing sparks flew with nearly every strike. www.ucogear.com

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KILLER WEEKEND

The Main Street of Fruita offers quality food, beer, and bike shops. photo by Lyle Wilkens

Fruita, Colorado A N

E S C A P E

Home to scenic hikes and riveting mountain biking, Fruita, Colorado has another side that will make you drool.

T O

T H E

C HLOE BO U R D O N

D E S E R T

Mountains are indeed beautiful and majestic, but the desert holds a different kind of wonder. A desert sky somehow looks bluer, in particular when pressed against the red curve of the Colorado National Monument located in Fruita. This small, rural town that sits off Interstate 70 (I-70) just west of Grand Junction, Colorado possesses an inner beauty without even trying. For a killer weekend visit, these adventures will give you a good taste of the locale.

COLORADO NATIONAL MONUMENT Set your sights where the horizon and the desert meet. The Colorado National Monument’s west entrance makes its home just outside of Fruita. One of the best ways to experience the Colorado National Monument is to drive the aptly named Rimrock Road all the way through the Monument, arriving back at Grand Junction. Ranger stations mark the beginning and the end of the drive. After this twisting drive, it is easy and somewhat of a relief to drive the rigidly straight I-70 back from Grand Junction to Fruita. Driving the Monument affords an inside-out look at the Grand Valley. Standing outside the Grand Valley and looking in is a totally different experience than the other way around. Along the drive, frequent pull-outs allow for further investigation of the sandstone curves. If you only do one hike on your drive, make sure that it is Devil’s Kitchen. Park in the last pull-out that you will see before the Grand Junction ranger station, which takes the form of a small parking lot on the right-hand side of the road. Devil’s Kitchen is a three-quarters of a mile hike from the parking lot. A short and easy scramble at the end of the sandy trail (guided by cairns) will lead you into the Kitchen 44 |

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itself, which is a large flat sandstone area that is surrounded on three sides by sandstone towers. This area is a local’s favorite because of the almost endless amount of nooks and crannies to climb over and around. Perhaps you prefer to move around on two wheels instead of two feet. In that case, Fruita is probably your dream come true due to its proximity to gorgeous and challenging mountain biking trails. The 18 Road trail system shuts down the competition. As if the free Bureau of Land Management camping on the road to the trails is not enough, 18 Road sits right at the foot of the impressive Book Cliffs. Follow 18 Road until you cross a cattle guard. Stick left until you see the first parking lot. You can bike here, but the more popular route is to ride your bike up the trails (or the dirt road) until you reach the very end of the car-accessible driving, which is marked by a map. If you follow the road to the left, you will find dispersed camping for a fee. However, just at the end of the road before you turn left, you will see a trail leading off the road and curving away. This trail is called Kessel Run and will take you on an easy but thrilling roller coaster ride through desert meadows and trees.

EVENING ENTERTAINMENT Here’s a local’s favorite way to spend a fall afternoon or evening: Moon Farm. It is a jewel of a pumpkin patch that opens in late September. This farm boasts over 20 unique playhouses created by the Moon family. Originally built for the entertainment of local school children, Moon Farm also has a petting zoo and a pumpkin patch. The last, but not least, attraction of this unique farm is its gigantic Barbie and assorted dolls collection — we’re talking thousands of dolls. If you visit around October, Moon Farm also has a haunted maze. TOP: The Colorado National Monument exudes beauty on the trail to Devil's Kitchen. photo by Chloe Bourdon LEFT: Kessel Run winds through the desert meadows at the foot of the Book Cliffs. photo by Chloe Bourdon BOTTOM: The Colorado National Monument has many canyons, such as this one, just waiting to be discovered. photo by Lyle Wilkens

POST-ADVENTURE REFRESHMENTS You’ve worked hard adventuring all day, and now it’s time to fuel up for what tomorrow has to offer. The Hot Tomato Café is legendary for its highly original pizzas (a potential topping choice is seasonal Palisade peaches) and a bar where people not only enjoy the taste of a good beer, but appreciate its rejuvenating effect after a long, dusty day. For the best burger in town, check out Suds Brothers Brewery. If you love green chile, try the El Bandito burger. The green chile aioli will make even the toughest chile lover reach for a cool crafted beer. You’ll be planning your next trip to Fruita before you even leave city limits. Depending on the season, you can explore river sports, the Powderhorn Mountain Resort, or the weekly rodeos. If you can’t wait, come back soon to view the fall colors on The Grand Mesa, the world’s largest flat-top mountain.

CHLOE BOURDON was born and raised in Durango and is a recent graduate of Colorado Mesa University with an English degree. Her time in Grand Junction has convinced her of the charms of the desert, despite her homegrown love of the mountains. While not working as executive director for the nonprofit Blood Brothers Foundation, she loves to write, rock climb, travel, raft, read, mountain bike and camp.

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HIDDEN GEMS

FA LL COLO R S WITHOUT THE CROWDS by

Autumn is on the way and the mountains will soon be wrapped in the warmth of fall colors. With leaf peepers out in force, we recommend skipping the busy trailheads and crowded roadside viewpoints. If you want spectacular vistas and quiet photo-ops all to yourself, check out these destinations that lay just beyond the beaten path.

MARGAR E T HE D D E R M A N

NEW MEXICO THE ENCHANTED CIRCLE

››

This 84-mile loop puts the “enchanted” in the Land of Enchantment. Circumnavigating New Mexico’s highest mountain – Wheeler Peak at 13,161 feet – this relaxing National Forest Scenic Byway winds through sage-infused desert before climbing into the wild and rugged mountains of northern New Mexico. From Taos, follow the route north as it parallels the Rio Grande before veering east into the Sangre de Cristo Range (Spanish for “Blood of Christ”). True to their name, the mountains take on a reddish hue at sundown, so you’ll want to plan on staying the night. The Enchanted Circle passes two popular ski areas – Red River and Angel Fire – and includes an optional detour to the Taos Ski Valley where you can hike to the summit of Wheeler Peak. Be sure to keep an eye-out for bighorn sheep while you’re enjoying the sweeping views of New Mexico’s highest mountains. The route trends south after Red River, traveling through the expansive Moreno Valley and eventually winding west through the narrow Taos Canyon. Finish where you started and indulge in some fresh green chile on the Taos Plaza.

WElkLoop - Winding its way through mountain passes and scenic valleys, the West Elk Loop features some of the best views on the Western Slope. photo by Ryan McGehee

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A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

Wheeler Peak - The Enchanted Circle loops around Wheeler Peak, connecting the towns of Taos, Red River, and Angel Fire. photo courtesy of Reed Weimer and the Town of Red River

›› COLORADO THE WEST ELK LOOP Gorgeous at any time of the year, the West Elk Loop Scenic Byway shows its true colors during autumn. Connecting the Crested Butte-Gunnison area with far flung destinations like Delta County, this loop takes mountain passes and sweeping valleys in stride (if you’re coming from the I-70 Corridor, the route also includes Carbondale). Some of the most spectacular fall colors can be viewed from Kebler Pass, where one of the largest aspen groves in Colorado is located. Possibly the most impressive section of the loop, Kebler Pass is a seasonal 2WD dirt road that climbs to 10,007 feet and connects the ski town of Crested Butte to the lovely farming community of Paonia (think orchards and vineyards). Kebler Pass typically closes in November due to snowfall, so be sure to check the road conditions before heading out. The 188-mile loop (273 if you include Carbondale) can be tackled in a day, but we recommend stretching it into a weekend excursion and enjoy a hike or a side trip to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.

››

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HIDDEN GEMS

Cathedral Rock - While Arizona might not be known for its fall colors, the Sedona area offers spectacular vistas of contrasting red rock and autumn leaves. photo courtesy of the Sedona Chamber of Commerce & Tourism Bureau

Sure, Arizona isn’t the first place that comes to mind when planning a fall colors trip, but the contrasting hues of oak, cottonwood and willow paired with red sandstone towers makes the Sedona area an ideal spot for a mini vacation. Just north of Sedona in the Coconino National Forest, Oak Creek flows through a steep river gorge (known as Oak Creek Canyon) where views from Highway 89A and numerous hiking trails abound. Be sure to stop at the Oak Creek Vista Overlook on the northern end of the canyon before dropping in. The West Fork Oak Creek Trail is a popular hike, despite scars from the 2014 Slide Fire. As you follow the creek south, it eventually winds past Sedona – and possibly a spiritual vortex or two – where earthbound and celestial beings alike can enjoy the changing seasons. Cathedral Rock can be accessed via a short, steep trail. Although it’s one of the most photographed spots in Arizona, it’s hard to deny that the yellow blaze of willows swaying beneath vermilion towers isn’t worth a snapshot of your own.

COLORADO THE TELLURIDE FREE GONDOLA & VIA FERRATA

››

ARIZONA OAK CREEK & SEDONA

Telluride is the Hope Diamond of hidden gems, but we’d be remiss to leave these two adventures off the list. Connecting Telluride to the Mountain Village, the Free Gondola climbs to 10,540 feet above the San Juan Mountains. You can hop off here at the San Sophia Station to access hiking and mountain biking trails or ride the gondola all the way to the village. During the 8-mile, 13-minute ride, you can enjoy views of Telluride’s box canyon backed by 13,000 foot peaks and the Bridal Veil Falls. If you’re looking for something a bit more adventurous, grab your climbing gear. The Telluride Mountain Club maintains a Via Ferrata along the cliffs at the back of the canyon. While the majority of the route enjoys a narrow path along the cliff face, the “Main Event” transects a 500-foot vertical drop with iron rungs as your only foothold. The views are incredible… if you can stomach looking at them! MARGARET HEDDERMAN writes essays, screenplays, and the odd bit of fiction. She also produces multiday experiential events like the Women Outside Adventure Forum. Her work is available at www.margarethedderman.com.

Telluride Gondola - Connecting Telluride to the Town of Mountain Village, the free Gondola offers 360-degree views of the San Juan Mountains bursting with fall colors. photo courtesy of Ryan Bonneau and the Town of Mountain Village 48 |

A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

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C A L E N DA R COLORADO

ARIZONA

S E P T. 2 0 - 2 2 Colorfest PAGOSA SPRINGS www.pagosachamber.com/ colorfest S E P T. 2 0 - 2 2 Salida Bike Fest SALIDA www.salidabikefest.com S E P T. 2 1 – 2 2 Moab Century Tour MOAB www.skinnytireevents.com/ moabcenturytour S E P T. 2 6 - 2 9 Crested Butte Film Festival Crested Butte www.cbfilmfest.org S E P T. 2 7 - 2 9 Fruita Fall Festival FRUITA www.fruitachamber.org/fruita-fallfestival S E P T. 2 7 - 2 9 14er Fest BUENA VISTA www.colorfulcolorado.com/ event/14er-fest-4 S E P T. 2 8 Durango Fall Blaze DURANGO www.durangofallblaze.com S E P T. 2 8 Tour of the Moon Grand Cycling Classic GRANT JUNCTION www.rollmassif.com/ tourofthemoon S E P T. 2 8 Durango Brew Train DURANGO www.durango.com/event/durangobrew-train-september O C T. 5 Ouray Oktoberfest OURAY www.ouraycolorado.com O C T. 1 2 Oktoberfest Amped Grand Junction www.oktoberfestgj.com O C T. 1 8 - 2 0 USA Cycling Collegiate Mountain Bike National Championships DURANGO www.usacycling.org

S E P T. 2 1 – 2 2 Flagstaff to Grand Canyon Stagecoach Line Races FLAGSTAFF www.runazt.org/flagstaff-togrand-canyon-stagecoachline-100 S E P T. 2 1 Taco Festival FLAGSTAFF www.pepsiamp.com/event/ taco-festival S E P T. 2 7 – 2 8 Zion Canyon Music Festival SPRINGDALE www.zioncanyon musicfestival.com S E P T. 2 8 Barks & Brews FLAGSTAFF www.facebook.com/ barksandbrewsflagstaff S E P T. 2 8 Switcherooski FLAGSTAFF www.mountainmanevents.com/ portfolio/switcherooski O C T. 5 Flagstaff Sky Peaks Mountain Runs FLAGSTAFF www.aravaiparunning.com/ network/flagstaff O C T. 5 Oktoberfest FLAGSTAFF www.flagstaffoktoberfest.com O C T. 1 2 Soulstice Mountain Trail Run FLAGSTAFF www.natra.org/soulstice N O V. 3 Ride the Red Rocks SEDONA www.ridetheredrocks.com N O V. 8 - 1 0 Roam Bike Fest SEDONA www.roambikefest.com

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NEW MEXICO

U TA H

S E P T. 2 1 Navajo Nation Police Hero Run SHIPROCK www.runsignup.com/Race/NM/ Crownpoint/NNPDHeroRun S E P T. 2 2 Gran Fondo TAOS/ANGEL FIRE/MORA www.tourdeacoma.com SEPT 22 – 29 Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta SANTA FE www.santafewineandchile.org O C T. 5 Aspenfest Craft Beer and Wine Festival RUIDOSO www.newmexico.org/event/aspenfestcraft-beer-and-wine-festival O C T. 5 - 6 Harvest Festival SANTA FE www.golondrinas.org O C T. 1 2 - 1 4 Santa Fe Indigenous Peoples Day Celebration SANTA FE www.santafe.org/indigenous_ peoples_day O C T. 5 – 1 3 Albuquerque International Balloon FIESTA Albuquerque www.balloonfiesta.com O C T. 1 2 New Mexico Brew Fest ALBUQUERQUE www.nmbrewfest.com O C T. 1 3 Ride the Rift TAOS www.ridetherifttaos.com O C T. 2 5 – 2 7 Taos Mountain Balloon Rally TAOS www.taosballoonrally.com

S E P T. 2 1 Strut Your Mutt Kanab KANAB www.funtober.com S E P T. 2 0 – 2 9 Escalante Canyons Art Festival ESCALANTE www.escalantecanyonsartfestival.org S E P T. 2 7 - 2 8 Zion Canyon Music Festival SPRINGDALE www.zioncanyonmusicfestival.com O C T. 4 – 6 Outerbike Fall MOAB www.outerbike.com O C T. 1 1 – 1 5 Moab 240 MOAB www.moab200.com O C T. 1 3 Arches Half Marathon MOAB www.madmooseevents.com/ archeshalfmarathon O C T. 1 7 – 2 0 Bluff Arts Festival BLUFF www.bluffartsfestival.org O C T. 2 4 - 2 7 Moab Ho-Down Mountain Bike Festival & Film Fest MOAB www.moabhodown.com O C T. 2 5 - 2 7 Moab Craggin Classic MOAB www.americanalpineclub.org/ moab-craggin-classic N O V. 1 - 3 Moab Folk Festival MOAB www.moabfolkfestival.com

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598 Main Ave. • Durango, CO 81304 • (970) 259-5052 215 South Sligo St. • Cortez, CO 81321 • (970) 565-2725 16.7412_© 2019 Kahala Franchising, L.L.C. All rights reserved. Valid at participating locations. Participation may vary.

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SIPS 'N' SUDS

Cheers FOR ADVENTURE BEERS

PAIRING YOUR NEXT DURANGO ADVENTURE WITH THE RIGHT BREWERY It’s no secret that Durango, Colorado, boasts an avid outdoor community. It’s also no secret that locals enjoy a quality craft beer after a

Animas Brewing boating

Located just off the Animas River near Rotary Park, Animas long day of hiking, biking, riding or shredding. Brewing draws inspiration from With four main breweries (and one honorable its namesake river. Boasting a list of beers with names such as the mention), you’re sure to find the right beer to Riverside Kolsch and The River Gose Through It, you’re bound pair with your next Durango adventure. to find a beer that matches your boating preference. Animas Brewing uses local geography and history to name its beers. For example, the Lost Souls Lager is a tip to the river that runs through town. “Rio de las Animas Perdidas,” the original Spanish name for the river, translates to “The River of Lost Souls.” And the Broken Bridge Imperial IPA pays tribute to one of the Class IV+ b y TI O N A rapids found on the Upper Animas River. E V ERSO L E • River Section & Beer Pairing Many of Animas Brewing’s beers are named after features or rapids on the Upper Animas, but when it comes to the Upper “A,” the Imperial Red takes the top spot. Boasting a 7.8% ABV, the Upper “A” is just as big and bold as the Class IV - Class V waters that make the Upper Animas so rowdy. On this section of the Animas, the river drops at a rate of 85 feet per mile with 100+ continuous rapids. Big water calls for a big beer.

Carver Brewing backpacking

Imagine hiking 567 miles on the Colorado Trail from Denver to find a cold beer waiting for you at the end. That’s exactly what backpackers can expect at Carver Brewing upon completion of the thru-hike. Carver Brewing is a natural spot for thru-hikers to come since breakfast, lunch and dinner are all served, and they can grab a beer as early as 7 a.m. Named by co-founder Bill Carver for the trail which takes most backpackers about two months to complete, the Colorado Trail Nut Brown is a malty, Northern English Brown Ale with a balanced hop bitterness. “It seems like a good idea that (thru-hikers) should celebrate with the beer that’s named after the trail they just hiked,” remarked co-owner Mike Hurst.

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A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

In his free time, Hurst is a devoted cyclist and trail crew leader for local nonprofit Trails 2000, which helps build and maintain trails in the area. Carver Brewing holds several trail-related events including Trails 2000’s annual spring membership party and the Colorado Trail gala in the fall that attracts trail doctors from all across the state. It’s the brewery’s way of saying thanks to everyone who has helped maintain the Colorado Trail throughout the year. And while the dates are not yet finalized, Hurst and now 13-year-old daughter, Hailey, have committed to do the Colorado Trail as a thru-hike. • Trail Hike/Ride & Beer Pairing It’s a given that the pairing that makes the most sense is the Colorado Trail and the Nut Brown, so we decided to let Carver Brewing share another unique side of their business. Take a step onto their patio and you won’t miss the massive blue bicycle statue. This statue has its own beer named after it: the Big Bike Double IPA. When asked for his favorite hike and beer pairing in Durango, Hurst’s response was that his favorite hike is actually a mountain bike ride. With that being said, you will find Hurst riding the West Animas Mountain descent — a ride characterized by a lot of climbing

FAR LEFT: Animas Brewing Company is a short walk from the Animas River and offers a nice view of the iconic Hogsback Ridge from the outside patio. photo by Terrance Siemon LEFT: Head to Carver Brewing Company’s back patio and you won’t miss the iconic 1960’s Schwinn bicycle. They even have a beer dedicated to the statue — the Big Bike IPA. photo by Tiona Eversole BOTTOM: Post-ride Mexican Loggers and Moral Panic IPAs await Dylan Stucki and Trevor Downing at the top of Coal Bank Pass. For members of Ska/Zia/Trek, Coal Bank Pass is a favorite hub for accessing the high country. From hour long shuttle missions to all day adventures, the Highway 550 corridor north of Durango provides as much mountain biking variety as a Ska Mixed Up 12-pack. photo by Grady James

followed by a lot of technical downhill — and pairing it with the Big Bike Double IPA. Why? According to Hurst, the beer is just like the ride: You go big. “It’s intense, it’s flavorful, it’s balanced,” Hurst said. “It’s got a little bit of everything — malt sweetness with a lot of citrusy, tropical fruit hop character.” It’s important to note that the Animas Mountain Trail is also a popular hike in Durango, especially if you’re looking for a different change of pace. We would still pair the Bike Bike Double IPA with this 5.9-mile loop north of town that gains almost 1,500 feet in 2.5 miles.

Ska Brewing mountain biking

From post-ride beers after a quick spin in the Horse Gulch trail system to short track races that circle the brewery before sending off the loading dock, Ska Brewing’s involvement in the mountain bike community does not go unnoticed. Ska Brewing is a big stakeholder in the Durango biking community. Along with a decent amount of employees that are avid mountain bikers, Ska Brewing is also a sponsor of the Ska/Zia/Trek racing team — a team that boasts a lot of talent, and is also community-focused.

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SIPS 'N' SUDS “It’s not about the podium that we’re concerned about,” said Ska Brewing co-founder Dave Thibodeau, “It’s about community service and building trails and mentoring up-andcoming riders.” Additional community outreach includes Ska employees who dedicate time to help with Durango DEVO, a local kids’ mountain biking program, while also making sure to keep the beer separate from the mountain bike mentoring. They are also a sponsor of the 12 Hours of Mesa Verde race held at Phil’s World every spring. “It’s a big part of who we are and what we do,” Thibodeau said.

Steamworks Brewing Company’s head brewer Ken Martin has been cranking out award-winning beers such as the Colorado Kölsch and Steam Engine Lager for over 13 years. Somehow, he still finds time to hit the backcountry or cruise around Purgatory Resort in search of fresh powder stashes. photo by Terrance Siemon

• Trail Ride & Beer Pairing Grab a six-pack of Moral Panic Brut IPA and head into the mighty San Juan Mountains. Thibodeau suggests checking out the Colorado Trail and Engineer Mountain area north of Durango for some epic, highcountry trail riding. Why Moral Panic? At a little over 5.5% ABV, the Moral Panic does not have a crazy high ABV like other IPAs boast. “It’s super refreshing because it finishes a little dry,” explained Thibodeau. “It’s got a lot of tropical hops, especially in the nose, but it’s still a pretty light beer.”

Steamworks Brewing skiing/snowboarding

Steamworks Brewing Company’s award-winning Colorado Kölsch. photo by Terrance Siemon

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A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

Chances are, if you’ve bellied up to any of the bars at Purgatory Resort, you’ve seen Steamworks beer on tap. And if you’ve been up on a Friday, one of the owners might have even bought you a beer. Aside from this weekly Friday beer/ski tour where you’ll find the Steamworks owners Kris Oyler and Brian McEachron spreading beer and wisdom across the mountain, the “Steam Team” hosts a number of events at the mountain — from clambakes to Osprey pack giveaways. But this isn’t the only reason Steamworks Brewing pairs so well with skiing and snowboarding. A lot of the employees at the downtown restaurant spend their days off at the resort or in the backcountry. Steamworks offers discounted Purgatory season passes to

their employees. And as for management, “we go cat skiing up at Jones Pass,” head brewer Ken Martin said. “It’s just a good weekend where we’re still talking about work stuff, but everyone’s raging and skiing deep powder.” • Ski Run & Beer Pairing Head to the backside of Purgatory and slip into the tall spruce trees of Paul’s Park, and you’ll have a better understanding of one of Steamworks’ most popular seasonal beers — the Spruce Goose. Not only is Paul’s Park nice on a powder day with a good steep pitch, but “you’re rippin’ through those Blue spruce and that Engelmann spruce,” explained Martin, “and those are the very trees that we harvest to make that beer unique and make it what it is.” Martin also recommends the Spruce Goose pairing because it is a winter warmer ale. “It’s 8.5%, so it’s kind of a nice thing to have at the end of a ski day,” Martin said.

Chainless Brewing honorable mention

The newest brewery in Durango, Chainless Brewing, resides in the old Durango Brewing Company building on North Main Avenue. Similar to the flagship Durango breweries, Chainless draws inspiration from the mountain bike community with beers named Clipless Wheat and Broken Link Lager. We’re excited to see what Chainless will bring to the table.

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Packed up with fishing gear Heather Mobley runs along Junction Creek off the Colorado Trail to tap into prime fly fishing for trout. photo by Marcus Garcia

HOW TO

R U N

R U N Combining Trail Running with Fly-fishing by

A beginnerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guide to merging two sports that lead to beautiful adventures and peaceful solitude

HEATHE R MOBLEY

Both trail running and fly-fishing allow us to disconnect from the hustle of life and seek the opportunity to take in nature at its best. Enjoy the advantages of high-country fishing in places many donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go by running the trails that get you there.

TRAIL RUNNING 101 STEP

01 STEP

Pick the right shoes. You want your shoes to be supportive and grippy, but thin enough to feel the new terrain you are running on. Get the gear. See the attached list for items needed for each run. Do not feel you need to have running-specific items. You simply want clothing that will wick sweat away from your body and gear that will keep you safe and hydrated.

Pick a trail. Start by finding trails that are short (20-30 minutes) and relatively flat. As you get stronger, start to incorporate more uphill climbing and increase your distance by up STEP to 10% each week. Trail running has more obstacles and challenges than other forms of running so it is important to take it slow and listen to your body. When incorporating flyfishing you simply need to look for trails that go along a river, creek or lake.

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A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

STEPS TO TRAIL RUNNING

Trail running is a sport that takes running to new levels. Instead of running on tracks or in gyms, you find yourself running in the mountains with uphill climbs and downhill glides, often alone in new quiet places and pushing your limits to new levels.

Look down. Remember to keep your eyes STEP down looking 5 to 15 feet in front of you, scanning for obstacles. Keep good form by keeping good posture, keeping your chest open, shoulders relaxed and core engaged. Your strides will be shorter on trails. This allows for better balance and reaction time.

Stay hydrated. Bring either enough water to keep you hydrated for the duration of your trip or a Life Straw, tablets or purification system to replenish your supply as needed. Prioritize safety. Tell someone where you are going, have identification, bring a map yourself or cellphone to keep you on track on hand. Practice good trail etiquette. Yield to others on the trail, let people know you are passing or that you are behind them, keep 10 feet from other runners if you are in a group and, most importantly, be friendly. Find a community. Check out your local running store for running groups. Sign up for local social media groups. Finding running companions is right at your fingertips and adventuring is so much fun with others.

STEP

05 STEP

06 STEP

07 STEP

FLY-FISHING 101 Fly-fishing is a sport where you get to take a more in-depth look at the ecosystem of your local rivers or lakes. You quietly walk upstream looking for fish among the rocks, while paying attention to the bugs that live in the river beds. There is a rhythm and timing to each cast that creates a calming energy.

STEPS TO FLY-FISHING STEP

Get a fishing license in your area. You can do this online or at a local store.

Gather required gear. See the list below for gear needed to get started.

STEP

Take a lesson from a local guiding company or ask a friend. Casting is a skill all its own. While it looks challenging, with the right STEP guidance you will be casting well in no time. A guide or local shop can also help you understand the right flies to use in the areas you are going, as well as teach you the basics of putting your rod together and tying flies. These guys are very knowledgeable and eager to help so be inquisitive and ask questions. There are also many resources online to help with this process.

Choose a good fishing location. Find a quiet STEP place away from other people. Look for areas that have boulders/debris that create pooling. Fish often hide under these areas for protection. In the high country, get in the creek and work upstream; it will be harder for the fish to see you.

Practice. Keep in mind for the beginning fly angler, practice, patience, and perseverance are key. You won't become a fantastic caster overnight, just like you won't do a 20=mile trail run your first day. Find a Community. Again, your local fly shop, can connect you with others. You can also start a chat on meetup.com or check out social media platforms to find other fly fishers.

STEP

05 STEP

Starting with a trail run and landing in a stream far from the crowds, this is what itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about. photo by Heather Mobley

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R U N LEFT: Ready-to-load lightweight fishing gear. photo by Heather Mobley RIGHT: The brook trout is a non-native Colorado fish introduced during the settlement of the Rockies. Brook trout thrive in high, cold, and clear mountain creeks and streams and can be found all over the Colorado high country. photo by Andy McKinley

R U N

Have fun out there and remember: freedom is in the adventure and life is in the experience. VOCABULARY Dry Fly - Fly that floats on the surface of the water Wet Fly - Fly that sinks Streamer - A larger wet fly that looks like a baitfish or leech that larger fish prey on Floatant - A powder or gel that keeps your dry fly from sinking Fly Line - The thicker colored line that is used to weight the rod in order to cast, which attaches to the leader Leader - A section of tapered monofilament that attaches to the end of the fly line Tippet - A thin section of monofilament fly line that is tied to the end of the leader and then tied to the fly Drag Free Drift - Drifting your fly down a river or creek to imitate a natural insect caught in the water. Drag Free means not allowing any tension on the fly that causes it to move unnaturally down, across, or up the current

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Tying it together

When combining trail running with fly-fishing, simply find trails that run along or end at a river or creek. Spend time doing each of them consistently. Don’t be afraid to ask questions. The people that do this regularly were once beginners. They will have tips and resources that will make your experience even better.

GEAR

SAFETY

Here is what you need to get started. 01 Supportive footwear 02 Comfortable, weather appropriate clothing

EQUIPMENT FOR FLY-FISHING

01 Lightweight rod: 6 weight is recommended

for beginners

02 Reel with fly line and leader (the fly line

must match the weight of the rod)

03 Selection of flies 04 Spool of tippet 05 Forceps/line cutter 06 Fly floatant 07 Fishing vest (optional) 08 Wading socks (optional) 09 Water shoes with increased grip (optional) 10 Polarized sunglasses 11 fly-fishing net

EQUIPMENT USED FOR BOTH 01 Comfortable backpack 02 Water or Life Straw 03 Snacks 04 First-aid kit 05 Sunscreen 06 Headlamp 07 Map or cell phone

Next Level

A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

Any time you are doing something in the backcountry there are extra precautions that should be taken. 01 Always tell someone exactly where you are going

and when you plan to be back. This way if you get hurt or something unpredictable happens, someone knows to come looking. 02 Pay attention to the weather. In the high country, storms move in fast and the weather changes. Be prepared for rain, lighting, cold and even the dark. If you are prepared, you can stay safe. 03 Pack a small emergency kit in case you get hurt or come across someone else that needs assistance. 04 Bring lots of water. Trail running takes more out of you than other types of running. When you factor this with the sun and wind, your body will need more hydration. On this note, you can also bring a life straw in order to reduce weight while still having a source of water. Never drink unfiltered natural water. 05 When it comes to fly-fishing, remember to never underestimate the power of the moving water. Ensure you feel solid on your feet when wading. Don’t risk wading in high flowing rapids, instead walk around. 06 Do your research. The internet is filled with great information to guide you through getting out on the trail and don’t forget to stop by local running and fishing shops to tap into the vast knowledge. Knowledge is your key to safety and amazing new adventures.

Once you get the hang of this sport, you can take it to the next level. Each year the Flyathalon combines fly-fishing, trail running and beer and makes an event everyone can enjoy. The sixth annual event was held this year in August, but check out the link for more information to get you ready for 2020: www.runningrivers.org/2019-flyathlon-events.html

HEATHER MOBLEY was raised in Durango and is a mom to three kids.

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WILD VOICES

S U S T A I N A B L E

Pedals by

MO RG A N TILTON

Nichole Baker — a local pathologist’s assistant, philanthropist and professional mountain biker — ventures worldwide to grow global healthcare At 19 years old, Nichole Baker’s childhood boyfriend, Steve, passed away from aggressive Non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma. The loss inspired her to pursue a career in vascular surgery research at the University of Michigan – 40 miles east of Jackson, where she grew up – in 2007. In the following decade, Baker’s path evolved to her current role of pathologist’s assistant (PA) at Mercy Regional Medical

Center in Durango, Colorado. At the lab, Baker, now 34, examines tissue samples to determine patient diagnoses alongside the pathologist. “It is inspirational to know I have a hand in diagnosing and treating someone similar to Steve,” Baker said. After finishing PA training in 2014, Baker dove into global pathology volunteer work in Haiti. She was disheartened by the experience. “I watched what can go wrong without appropriate sustainable research for pathology processes in developing countries,” Baker said. “I left Haiti feeling that pathology is a majorly underrepresented sector of medicine and wanted to help fill this void in ways that truly lead to sustainable practices, globally.” Baker subsequently launched a nonprofit in 2016 to address those issues. Introducing, Path of Logic (POL): an organization that sheds light on the underrepresentation of the field of pathology in progressing nations and helps to provide sustainable healthcare operations. That same year, Harvard Medical School’s Massachusetts General Hospital posted an ad requesting teaching volunteers for anatomic pathology at Mbarara

Regional Referral Hospital in western Uganda. Baker jumped at the opportunity to apply—and landed the position. Now, she uses most of her vacation time to jet at least once annually to Mbarara, where she helps advance the oncology sphere. “For many maturing countries, pathology is on the back burner — or not even on the stove,” she said. “It’s important to secure a diagnosis before treatment. In Uganda, physicians were treating swollen lymph nodes for tuberculosis without a diagnosis, which is dangerous. Lymphadenopathies can also indicate a lymphoma or different type of infection.” Baker has volunteered in Kenya, too, but decided to commit to fostering her partnerships in Uganda, with a long-term vision of extensive, meaningful impact.

TOP: Baker with children who received Mpowerd and Luci lamps from her on the first bike tour she took through southwest Uganda in 2018. BOTTOM: On the day Baker began her bike ride through southwest Uganda earlier this year, the students at the Katunguru-Rubirizi primary school were all given lights to prepare for an upcoming examination to test into secondary school. photos by Nichole Baker. 60 |

A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

LEFT: Baker reviewing control slides for an immunohistochemistry test at Mercy Regional Medical Center in 2018. photo by Patrick Norris BOTTOM: On day three of Baker’s bike tour through southwest Uganda, she distributed lights to all of the children in a village near Katate, including to this happy little fellow. photo by Nichole Baker

Baker hitting the Twin Buttes Trail near Durango in the spring of 2017. photo by Whit Richardson

Today, Baker prefers far-out explorations via dirt roads and Her effort is paying off primitive trail systems. Over the last few years, her route-creation Baker’s most recent two-week stint at Mbarara Regional Referral and solo adventures have led her wheels across remote areas of Hospital, earlier this year, resulted in the government’s first-ever Uganda, Scotland, and Northern India. This summer, she electronic healthcare tracking system in Eastern mapped out several multiday big-mileage, high-alpine Africa. During her stay, Baker recruited the help of routes in the San Juan Mountains with mandatory stream a remote computer programmer in Belize to help Beyond science, crossings and steep hike-a-bike segments — completely her rapidly create a computer system that tracks Baker connects human-powered sans shuttles. The best part? Baker’s cases and generates pathology reports including outdoor industry connections support her philanthropy. turnaround time. In the U.S., Baker’s colleagues with Ugandans “The synergy that exists with POL was unexpected,” deliver information to patients in three days. In by mountain Baker said. “All the companies I work with were excited Uganda, the process generally takes three weeks. biking to help this charity work, though unrelated to cycling or “For the first time, pathologists are able to track environmental advocacy. It feels serendipitous.” incidence of certain cancers, which will allow us between rural Mpowered, a company that creates collapsible, to lobby to the government to support pathology communities. solar-powered lights, has donated several hundred programs,” Baker explained. “I believe it will shift lights for Baker to give away as she rides. Baker sells her the culture and how funds should be allocated.” lightly-used Yeti Cycles bikes to support POL. Patagonia, Plus, any physician can use the system to Osprey Packs, Tailwind Nutrition and others likewise donate to perform an internal audit to identify how their processes can be the annual POL fundraiser: last year, the amount reached $25,000. improved. The 2020 POL fundraiser is yet to be announced. Beyond science, Baker connects with Ugandans by mountain biking between rural communities. Two-pedal transportation is MORGAN TILTON writes about the outdoors with a focus in travel, industry amusing and non-threatening, challenges taboos about women news and human endurance. At the moment, she’s recovering from a riding bikes, and catalyzes friendly conversation. She started remote jungle expedition — stay tuned for the upcoming story — and is riding when Steve passed away, and her passion for the sport led stoked to mountain run, bike, SUP, or climb in the Elks and San Juans. She the Yeti Cycles Ambassador to compete. works with close to 50 publications.

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V I S TA S

Sometimes photography is all about the moment. We call this photo â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;A Wildlflower Wink Goodnightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. It was captured in the Gunnison National Forest with love and patience on an evening that was brightened by flowers, sunset and peace. It reminds us of an end to a day and the excitement of starting another. 62 |

A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s

Visit Elk Raven Photography (elkravenphotography.com) for more work by Ryan Kempfer and Chris Kassar.

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PHOTO/ WILL SAUNDERS

Since 1976 Pine Needle Mountaineering has been Durangoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s benchmark outdoor outfitter. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re located in the heart of Durango, CO, offering everything you need for the perfect backcountry journey or outdoor adventure. From casual and technical apparel and footwear, to hiking, trail running, climbing, camping, backpacking, and ski AVAILABLE AT equipment, Pine Needle offers all you need from your favorite brands. We also have a full-service ski shop, and master boot fitters for your boot fitting and ski tuning essentials and rental needs. With a friendly and knowledgeable staff and an incredible selection, Pine Needle is the one stop shop to outfit your outdoor lifestyle.

835 Main Ave. Durango, CO

www.pineneedle.com

970-247-8728

Adventure Awaits.

Photo Credit: Tee Smith

Pine Needle Dry Goods is Durangoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premier outdoor clothing, accessory and gift store with the best selection of Patagonia in the area. We offer a curated selection of found items from local and international vendors with a focus on brands that do more, give back and create with a purpose. We seek to give back to our community and protect the world around us. Offering clothing and accessories for all your mountain activities including hiking, yoga, trail running, climbing, mountaineering, camping, backpacking, biking, skiing and much more. Shop, gather, connect, and engage at Pine Needle Dry Goods.

858 Main Ave., Durango, CO

www.pineneedle.com/drygoods

970-426-4496