FASHION FOCUS WOMAN KNITWEAR - AUTUMN WINTER 2018.19 - N.9 QUARTERLY REVIEW - €59,00 ITALY
.9
WOMAN AW. 18.19 Milan Paris London New York Barcelona and more
A
LES COPAINS
PUBLISHER AND DISTRIBUTOR PUBLISH FOR SRL Via Montenero 4/2A 40131 Bologna, Italy staff @publish-for.com www.fashionfocusmag.com EDITOR-IN-CHARGE Lidia Casari staff @publish-for.com GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Burzoni GRAPHIC EXECUTIVE Rossana De Nigris DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Silvia Bottini distribution@publish-for.com SUBSCRIPTIONS MANAGER Luciana Palmulli subscriptions@publish-for.com ADVERTISING marketing@publish-for.com TAP GRAFICHE SRL - POGGIBONSI (SI), Italy APRIL 2018
tt a time when the professional fashion sector is constantly looking for new inputs and inspirational sources that are able to optimize the creative research and the design of new collections, the Fashion Focus series confirms itself as an essential tool to deepen the trend analysis of each specific product category when it comes to women's wardrobe; the wide range of titles can guarantee a complete and exhaustive vision of all the style variations and the new models presented by the international designers, who are the protagonists of the most prestigious fashion weeks on a global level. From Milan to Paris, from New York to Madrid and Barcelona, the Autumn/Winter 2018-19 season highlights the desire for an eclectic wardrobe that is not strictly connected to the concept of "gender", in which the male and female outfits alternate on the catwalk seamlessly, creating a creative unicum that aims to redefine not only lines and volumes, but also color palettes and decorative elements considered up to now as true stylistic taboos. We should not be surprised, therefore, if this new idea of feminine wearability brings to the limelight outerwear pieces with a rigid and intentionally oversized structure, ultra-tech details that recall the world of sport competitions, massive footwear with exaggerated platforms, sartorial asymmetries. Between re-tradition and revolutionary visions that look to the future, everything is fluid and hybrid, subject to a new definition of the style that will come.
I
n un momento in cui il settore della moda professionale è alla continua ricerca di nuovi input e materiali d’ispirazione che possano ottimizzare la ricerca creativa e la progettazione delle collezioni, la collana Fashion Focus si conferma uno strumento indispensabile per approfondire l’analisi delle tendenze di ogni specifica categoria di prodotto del guardaroba femminile, garantendo una visione completa ed esauriente di tutte le varianti stilistiche e i nuovi modelli presentati dagli stilisti internazionali, protagonisti delle fashion week più prestigiose a livello globale. Da Milano a Parigi, da New York fino a Madrid e Barcellona, la stagione Autunno/Inverno 2018-19 mette in luce in maniera sempre più evidente la voglia di un guardaroba eclettico e non strettamente connesso al concetto di “genere”, in cui gli outfit maschili e femminili si alternano in passerella senza soluzione di continuità, creando un unicum creativo che punta a ridefinire non solo linee e volumi, ma anche gamme cromatiche ed elementi decorativi considerati fino ad oggi come veri e propri tabù stilistici. Non ci si dovrà stupire, quindi, se questa nuova idea di vestibilità femminile porta alla ribalta capi spalla dalla struttura rigida e volutamente oversize, dettagli ultra-tecnici che richiamano il mondo dell’agonismo sportivo, calzature massicce dai platform esagerati, asimmetrie sartoriali. Tra ripescaggi della tradizione e visioni rivoluzionarie che guardano al futuro, tutto è fluido e ibrido, soggetto a una nuova definizione dello stile che verrà.
KNITWEAR contents
6 3-D TEXTURES
20 NEW FOLK
60 GEOMETRICAL MOTIFS
66 FUZZY & FLUFFY
98 RAW EFFECTS
106 GRAPHIC IMPACT
FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE: MILAN, PARIS, LONDON, NEW YORK, BARCELONA, MADRID, MOSCOW, PORTUGAL, UKRAINE
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
36 BRIT ESSENTIALS
44 PRECIOUS DECOR
78 GLITTERING
84 RIBBED
114 UNFINISHED
118 URBAN TRAINING
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
2
3
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76
ELISABETTA FRANCHI
18
MARY KATRANTZOU
50,51,108
A.M.G
32
EMPORIO ARMANI
49
MICHAEL KORS
23,29,37,41,54
A.P.C.
99
ERIKA CAVALLINI
28,115
MIRIAM PONSA
30
AALTO
8,15
ERMANNO SCERVINO
21,38,42,45,82
MISSONI
29,30,33,80,81,104
AFRICA EXPLOSION
32,56,62
ESTER FERRANDO KNITWEAR
18,102,104
MIU MIU
70,71
AKRIS
96
ETRO
30,31,33
MOLLY GODDARD
63,65
ALBERTA FERRETTI
2,66,67,70,71,83
ÉTUDES
94
MSGM
25,26,27
ALEXANDER WANG
16
EUDON CHOI
12
MURSAK
79
ALEXANDR ROGOV
55,57,88
FASHION EAST – ASAI
116
N°21
26,59,91,109
ALTUZARRA
58
FAUSTINE STEINMETZ
69
NEITH NYER
112
ANA SOUSA
82
FENDI
17
NICOLE MILLER
56
ANDREW GN
48
FRANCESCA LIBERATORE
86
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
7,45,48,49,55,57,82
ANEL YAOS + CÉLIA VALVERDE
67,72
FROLOV
38,121
PACO RABANNE
46,59
ANIYE BY
63,71
GAUCHÈRE
2,90,98,99
PAUL SMITH
110
ANTEPRIMA
88,90,91
GCDS
68,72,120
PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI
17,100
ANTONIO MARRAS
45,54,55
GREY JASON WU
18,49
PICCIONE.PICCIONE
47,117
ARTEMKLIMCHUK
46
HAIDER ACKERMANN
12
POIRET
73
ARTHUR ARBESSER
67
HELEN ANTHONY
57
PORTS 1961
53,76
ASHLEY WILLIAMS
24
HENRIK VIBSKOV
39
PRABAL GURUNG
14,16,23,25,35
ASIA FASHION COLLECTION - FUMIKU
57
HERMÈS
83
PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI
28,32
BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE
93
HUNTING WORLD NEW YORK
24
PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND
40,41,42,105
BIBHU MOHAPATRA
52
ICEBERG
109,12
RAHUL MISHRA
59
BLUMARINE
52
IDISM
13,18
ROBERTO CAVALLI
8,81,85
BORA AKSU
56
ISABEL MARANT
21,27
SACAI
22,34,35
BOTTEGA VENETA
69
ISABEL NUÑEZ
68,72,73
SAINT LAURENT PARIS
83
BURBERRY
115
JASPER CONRAN
75,91
SALLY LAPOINTE
7,53,85
CALCATERRA
68
JEREMY SCOTT
65
SONIA RYKIEL
117
CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION
3,114,115
JIL SANDER
93
SPORTMAX
25,50,89,120,121
CALVIN LUO
119
JOHN GALLIANO
45
STELLA JEAN
3,118,119
CARLISLE
103
JONATHAN SIMKHAI
8
STELLA McCARTNEY
16,17,100
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA
10
JUNKO SHIMADA
110,111
SUSANA BETTENCOURT
61,64
CHALAYAN
90
JUNYA WATANABE
22,29,74,75,101,103
T.MOSCA
101,103,104,105
CHLOÉ
9,81,86,87
JUUN. J
10
THE COAT BY KATYA SILCHENKO
119
CHRISTIAN COWAN
53
KATERINA KVIT
93
TIBI
94,95,119
CHRISTIAN SIMMON
96
KENZO
51,92
TOGA
9
CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ
89
KOCHÉ
46
TORY BURCH
43
CHRISTOPHER KANE
52,112
KRIZIA
3,78,79,96,97,110
TRUSSARDI
7
CIVIDINI
83
KSENIASERAYA
13,15,34,62
UJOH
86
COACH
111
LACOSTE
11,42,43
ULLA JOHNSON
9,97
CONCRETO
14
LAURA BIAGIOTTI
10,11
ÚRDE STUDIO
50
CRISTIANO BURANI
14,74,75
LEMAIRE
86
VALENTINO
13
DAIZY SHELY
61
LEONARD PARIS
12
VERONIQUE LEROY
91
DAKS
3,36,37
LES COPAINS
11,40,47,58,87,92,107
VERSACE
38,39
DANIELA GREGIS
74
LIBERTINE
48
VICTORIA/TOMAS
63,65
DIESEL BLACK GOLD
2,20,21,24
LUCIEN PELLAT-FINET
40
VIVIENNE TAM
34,115,116
DIOR
109,112
LUCIO VANOTTI
97
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
73
DOLCE & GABBANA
2,106,107
LUISA BECCARIA
46
WOM & NOW BARCELONA
9
DRIES VAN NOTEN
2,60,61
MAISON MARGIELA
70
Y/PROJECT
26,37,68,70,121
EDWARD CRUTCHLEY
15,85
MARCO DE VINCENZO
108
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE
23
ELENA BURENINA
90
MARGARET HOWELL
28
ZIMMERMANN
2,6,7
ELIE SAAB
3,44
MARNI
3,84,85,92,94,95
ZIMMERMANN
3-D TEXTURES
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
6
7
TRUSSARDI
SALLY LAPOINTE
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
ZIMMERMANN
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 AALTO
AALTO
ROBERTO CAVALLI
JONATHAN SIMKHAI
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
8
9
WOM & NOW BARCELONA
TOGA
CHLOÉ
ULLA JOHNSON
3-D TEXTURES
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
LAURA BIAGIOTTI
JUUN. J
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
10
11
LAURA BIAGIOTTI
LES COPAINS
LACOSTE
3-D TEXTURES
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
LEONARD PARIS
EUDON CHOI
HAIDER ACKERMANN
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
12
13
KSENIASERAYA
VALENTINO
IDISM
3-D TEXTURES
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
CRISTIANO BURANI
PRABAL GURUNG
CONCRETO
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
14
15
KSENIASERAYA
EDWARD CRUTCHLEY AALTO
3-D TEXTURES
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
PRABAL GURUNG
ALEXANDER WANG
STELLA MCCARTNEY
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
16
17
STELLA MCCARTNEY
PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI FENDI
3-D TEXTURES
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 GREY JASON WU
ELISABETTA FRANCHI
ESTER FERRANDO KNITWEAR
IDISM
DIESEL BLACK GOLD
NEW FOLK
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
20
21
ERMANNO SCERVINO
ISABEL MARANT
DIESEL BLACK GOLD
DIESEL BLACK GOLD
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
JUNYA WATANABE
SACAI
JUNYA WATANABE
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
22
23
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE
MICHAEL KORS
PRABAL GURUNG
NEW FOLK
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 HUNTING WORLD NEW YORK
HUNTING WORLD NEW YORK
DIESEL BLACK GOLD
ASHLEY WILLIAMS
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
24
25
MSGM
SPORTMAX
PRABAL GURUNG
NEW FOLK
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
MSGM
N°21
N°21
Y/PROJECT
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
26
27
MSGM
ISABEL MARANT
ISABEL MARANT
NEW FOLK
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 MARGARET HOWELL
MARGARET HOWELL
ERIKA CAVALLINI
PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
28
29
MISSONI
JUNYA WATANABE
MICHAEL KORS
NEW FOLK
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
MISSONI
ETRO
MIRIAM PONSA
NEW FOLK ETRO
ETRO
ETRO
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
30
31
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
A.M.G
AFRICA EXPLOSION
PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI
NEW FOLK MISSONI
ETRO ETRO
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
32
33
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
KSENIASERAYA
SACAI
VIVIENNE TAM
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
34
35
SACAI
SACAI
PRABAL GURUNG
NEW FOLK
DAKS
BRIT ESSENTIALS
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
36
37
DAKS
DAKS
Y/PROJECT
MICHAEL KORS
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
VERSACE
FROLOV
ERMANNO SCERVINO
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
38
39
HENRIK VIBSKOV
HENRIK VIBSKOV VERSACE
BRIT ESSENTIALS
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
LUCIEN PELLAT-FINET
PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND
LES COPAINS
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
40
41
PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND
MICHAEL KORS MICHAEL KORS
BRIT ESSENTIALS
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
ERMANNO SCERVINO
PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND
LACOSTE
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
42
43
LACOSTE
TORY BURCH
TORY BURCH
BRIT ESSENTIALS
ELIE SAAB
PRECIOUS DECOR
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
44
45
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
ANTONIO MARRAS
JOHN GALLIANO
ERMANNO SCERVINO
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 ARTEMKLIMCHUK
KOCHÉ
LUISA BECCARIA
PACO RABANNE
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
46
47
LES COPAINS
PICCIONE.PICCIONE
LES COPAINS
PRECIOUS DECOR
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 ANDREW GN
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
LIBERTINE
LIBERTINE
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
48
49
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
EMPORIO ARMANI
GREY JASON WU
PRECIOUS DECOR
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
MARY KATRANTZOU
SPORTMAX
ÚRDE STUDIO
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
50
51
KENZO
KENZO
MARY KATRANTZOU
PRECIOUS DECOR
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 BIBHU MOHAPATRA
BLUMARINE
CHRISTOPHER KANE
CHRISTOPHER KANE
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
52
53
PORTS 1961
SALLY LAPOINTE
CHRISTIAN COWAN
PRECIOUS DECOR
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
MICHAEL KORS
ANTONIO MARRAS
ANTONIO MARRAS
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
54
55
ALEXANDR ROGOV
OSCAR DE LA RENTA ANTONIO MARRAS
PRECIOUS DECOR
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
NICOLE MILLER
AFRICA EXPLOSION
BORA AKSU
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
56
57
ASIA FASHION COLLECTION - FUMIKU
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
HELEN ANTHONY
ALEXANDR ROGOV
PRECIOUS DECOR
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
LES COPAINS
ALTUZARRA
ALTUZARRA
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
58
59
RAHUL MISHRA
PACO RABANNE
N°21
N°21
PRECIOUS DECOR
DRIES VAN NOTEN
GEOMETRICAL MOTIFS
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
60
61
DAIZY SHELY
DAIZY SHELY
SUSANA BETTENCOURT
DRIES VAN NOTEN
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
AFRICA EXPLOSION
KSENIASERAYA
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
62
63
VICTORIA/TOMAS
ANIYE BY
MOLLY GODDARD
GEOMETRICAL MOTIFS
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
SUSANA BETTENCOURT
SUSANA BETTENCOURT
SUSANA BETTENCOURT
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
64
65
VICTORIA/TOMAS
JEREMY SCOTT
MOLLY GODDARD
GEOMETRICAL MOTIFS
ALBERTA FERRETTI
FUZZY & FLUFFY
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
66
67
ANEL YAOS + CÉLIA VALVERDE
ANEL YAOS + CÉLIA VALVERDE
ARTHUR ARBESSER
ALBERTA FERRETTI
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 Y/PROJECT
CALCATERRA
GCDS
ISABEL NUÑEZ
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
68
69
FAUSTINE STEINMETZ
BOTTEGA VENETA FAUSTINE STEINMETZ
FUZZY & FLUFFY
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 MIU MIU
ALBERTA FERRETTI
MAISON MARGIELA
Y/PROJECT
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
70
71
MIU MIU
ALBERTA FERRETTI
ANIYE BY
MIU MIU
FUZZY & FLUFFY
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 ANEL YAOS + CÉLIA VALVERDE
ANEL YAOS + CÉLIA VALVERDE
GCDS
ISABEL NUÑEZ
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
72
73
POIRET
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
ISABEL NUÑEZ
FUZZY & FLUFFY
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
JUNYA WATANABE
CRISTIANO BURANI
DANIELA GREGIS
DANIELA GREGIS
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
74
75
CRISTIANO BURANI
JUNYA WATANABE
JASPER CONRAN
FUZZY & FLUFFY
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
PORTS 1961
À DÉTACHER
À DÉTACHER
KRIZIA
GLITTERING
MURSAK
KRIZIA
KRIZIA
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
78
79
MISSONI
MISSONI
MISSONI
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
80
81
ROBERTO CAVALLI
CHLOÉ
MISSONI
GLITTERING
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 ANA SOUSA
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
ERMANNO SCERVINO
ERMANNO SCERVINO
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
82
83
HERMÈS
SAINT LAURENT PARIS
ALBERTA FERRETTI
CIVIDINI
GLITTERING
MARNI
RIBBED
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
84
85
ROBERTO CAVALLI
MARNI
SALLY LAPOINTE
EDWARD CRUTCHLEY
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 LEMAIRE
CHLOÉ
FRANCESCA LIBERATORE
UJOH
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
86
87
CHLOÉ
LES COPAINS
CHLOÉ
RIBBED
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
ALEXANDR ROGOV
ANTEPRIMA
ANTEPRIMA
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
88
89
SPORTMAX
CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ
SPORTMAX
RIBBED
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 GAUCHÈRE
CHALAYAN
ANTEPRIMA
ELENA BURENINA
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
90
91
ANTEPRIMA
N°21
JASPER CONRAN
VERONIQUE LEROY
RIBBED
KENZO
MARNI
LES COPAINS
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
92
93
BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE
JIL SANDER
KATERINA KVIT
JIL SANDER
RIBBED
TIBI MARNI
ÉTUDES
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
RIBBED MARNI
TIBI MARNI
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
94
95
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
KRIZIA
AKRIS
CHRISTIAN SIMMON
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
96
97
LUCIO VANOTTI
KRIZIA
ULLA JOHNSON
KRIZIA
RIBBED
GAUCHÈRE
RAW EFFECTS
GAUCHÈRE
A.P.C.
GAUCHÈRE
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
98
99
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI
STELLA MCCARTNEY
STELLA MCCARTNEY
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
100
101
T.MOSCA
JUNYA WATANABE
T.MOSCA
RAW EFFECTS
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
ESTER FERRANDO KNITWEAR
ESTER FERRANDO KNITWEAR
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
102 103
T.MOSCA
CARLISLE
JUNYA WATANABE
RAW EFFECTS
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
MISSONI
T.MOSCA
ESTER FERRANDO KNITWEAR
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
104 105
PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND
T.MOSCA
T.MOSCA
RAW EFFECTS
DOLCE & GABBANA
GRAPHIC IMPACT
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
106 107
LES COPAINS
LES COPAINS
DOLCE & GABBANA
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
MARCO DE VINCENZO
MARY KATRANTZOU
MARCO DE VINCENZO
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
108 109
ICEBERG
ICEBERG
N°21
DIOR
GRAPHIC IMPACT
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
PAUL SMITH
KRIZIA
JUNKO SHIMADA
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
110
111
JUNKO SHIMADA
COACH
JUNKO SHIMADA
GRAPHIC IMPACT
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 DIOR
NEITH NYER
CHRISTOPHER KANE
CHRISTOPHER KANE
CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION
UNFINISHED
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
114
115
CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION
ERIKA CAVALLINI
VIVIENNE TAM
BURBERRY
CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9 VIVIENNE TAM
FASHION EAST – ASAI
VIVIENNE TAM
FASHION EAST – ASAI
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
116
117
SONIA RYKIEL
SONIA RYKIEL
SONIA RYKIEL
PICCIONE.PICCIONE
UNFINISHED
STELLA JEAN
URBAN TRAINING
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
118
119
THE COAT BY KATYA SILCHENKO
TIBI
CALVIN LUO
STELLA JEAN
GCDS ICEBERG
SPORTMAX
Autumn.W inter 18.1 9
FASHION FOCUS KNITWEAR
120
121
SPORTMAX
Y/PROJECT
FROLOV
URBAN TRAINING
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ready-to-wear collections from milan, paris, london and ny, but a detailed review of kids, man and haute couture catwalks). Very early publishing date. Trends: a summary of the main trends and the most interesting moods intercepted in the seasons's international collections. A selection of the most important fashion shows and the unmissable brands, to provide an overview of everything that is trendy in every fashion week.
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8102 RE M M US GN IRPS
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223
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223
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223
270
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