FASHION FOCUS WOMAN SUITS.DRESSES - autumn winter 18.19 - N.5 SIX MONTHLY REVIEW - €59,00 ITALY
.5
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A
ROBERTO CAVALLI
PUBLISHER AND DISTRIBUTOR PUBLISH FOR SRL Via Montenero 4/2A 40131 Bologna, Italy staff @publish-for.com www.fashionfocusmag.com EDITOR-IN-CHARGE Lidia Casari staff @publish-for.com GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Burzoni DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Silvia Bottini distribution@publish-for.com SUBSCRIPTIONS MANAGER Luciana Palmulli subscriptions@publish-for.com ADVERTISING marketing@publish-for.com CENTRO STAMPA DIGITALPRINT SRL RIMINI (RN), Italy APRIL 2018
t a time when the professional fashion sector is constantly looking for new inputs and inspirational sources that are able to optimize the creative research and the design of new collections, the Fashion Focus series confirms itself as an essential tool to deepen the trend analysis of each specific product category when it comes to women's wardrobe; the wide range of titles can guarantee a complete and exhaustive vision of all the style variations and the new models presented by the international designers, who are the protagonists of the most prestigious fashion weeks on a global level. From Milan to Paris, from New York to Madrid and Barcelona, the Autumn/Winter 2018-19 season highlights the desire for an eclectic wardrobe that is not strictly connected to the concept of "gender", in which the male and female outfits alternate on the catwalk seamlessly, creating a creative unicum that aims to redefine not only lines and volumes, but also color palettes and decorative elements considered up to now as true stylistic taboos. We should not be surprised, therefore, if this new idea of feminine wearability brings to the limelight outerwear pieces with a rigid and intentionally oversized structure, ultra-tech details that recall the world of sport competitions, massive footwear with exaggerated platforms, sartorial asymmetries. Between re-tradition and revolutionary visions that look to the future, everything is fluid and hybrid, subject to a new definition of the style that will come.
I
n un momento in cui il settore della moda professionale è alla continua ricerca di nuovi input e materiali d’ispirazione che possano ottimizzare la ricerca creativa e la progettazione delle collezioni, la collana Fashion Focus si conferma uno strumento indispensabile per approfondire l’analisi delle tendenze di ogni specifica categoria di prodotto del guardaroba femminile, garantendo una visione completa ed esauriente di tutte le varianti stilistiche e i nuovi modelli presentati dagli stilisti internazionali, protagonisti delle fashion week più prestigiose a livello globale. Da Milano a Parigi, da New York fino a Madrid e Barcellona, la stagione Autunno/Inverno 2018-19 mette in luce in maniera sempre più evidente la voglia di un guardaroba eclettico e non strettamente connesso al concetto di “genere”, in cui gli outfit maschili e femminili si alternano in passerella senza soluzione di continuità, creando un unicum creativo che punta a ridefinire non solo linee e volumi, ma anche gamme cromatiche ed elementi decorativi considerati fino ad oggi come veri e propri tabù stilistici. Non ci si dovrà stupire, quindi, se questa nuova idea di vestibilità femminile porta alla ribalta capi spalla dalla struttura rigida e volutamente oversize, dettagli ultra-tecnici che richiamano il mondo dell’agonismo sportivo, calzature massicce dai platform esagerati, asimmetrie sartoriali. Tra ripescaggi della tradizione e visioni rivoluzionarie che guardano al futuro, tutto è fluido e ibrido, soggetto a una nuova definizione dello stile che verrà.
SUITS.DRESSES contents SUITS
6 LIKE A CANDY
18 flowers blossom
26 UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS
76 two-tone
80 kimono
84 color blocks
FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE: MILAN, PARIS, NEW YORK, LONDON
46 visionary tailoring
64 pinstriped
72 surfaces
104 Fluo Addiction
110 flowers of life
DRESSES
90 FRILLS & RUCHES
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28,113,114 113,116 36 83 29,73 38,41 50 44,48,49 28,36,47,56,57,61 24,25,52 113 29,34 7,8,14,15,107 92,101,103,112 68,69,83,90,91,92,93,94,95,97,98,98,99,101,111,112 40 45,89 97,121 53,7 10,86,89 84,85,105 46,47,54,55,76,77 51,54,55 20,29,99,102,103 65 23 11,16 94,110,111 9,17,102 4070 93 9,15,72,73 106 107 34,51,62,83,95,115 32 30,31,33,114 10,11,21,24,66,79 22,31 24,30,50,53 30,38,44 39,67,75 19,20,23,35,118,120,121 37,43,64,65,92,95,97,100,103 66,67,120 33,86 106 25 70 32 68,112 89 88 12 17100 69,115 16,73 65
JASPER CONRAN JIL SANDER JUNKO SHIMADA JUNYA WATANABE LAURA BIAGIOTTI LOEWE LUCIO VANOTTI LUISA BECCARIA MARNI MARTA JAKUBOWSKI MARY KATRANTZOU MICHAEL KORS MILA SCHÖN MISSONI MODEMENT MOTHER OF PEARL MSGM N°21 NADYA DZYAK NATASHA ZINKO NICOLE MILLER OFF WHITE OSCAR DE LA RENTA PALMER // HARDING PETER PILOTTO PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI PICCIONE.PICCIONE PORTS 1961 PRABAL GURUNG PRADA PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI RALPH & RUSSO REDEMPTION RICHARD MALONE ROKSANDA SAINT LAURENT PARIS SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SIMONE ROCHA SONIA RYKIEL SPORTMAX STELLA JEAN STELLA McCARTNEY TADASHI SHOJI TEATUM JONES THOM BROWNE TIBI TOGA TOM FORD TORY BURCH TSUMORI CHISATO UMA WANG UNDERCOVER VERSACE VIONNET VIVETTA VIVIENNE TAM VLADIMIRO GIOIA YANG LI
108 59 22 52,53 34,36,41,75 35 37 23,25,38,39,45,119 108 27,42,43,51,60,85,86,87 11,48,49 16,27,42,99,116,120,121 52,57 8 62 58,68,115 14 111,119 94 42,57 21,37,117,118,119 59 20,116,117 56 12,13,82,117 40,91,94,95,111 85 50,56,62 79,114 106,107 18,19,104,105 28 15 47,49,58,60 77,87,88 111 88 22,63,96 32 44,45 69 81 7 80,81,82,96 48,55 78,79 59,63 6,7,74,75,106 118 61 58 77 26,27,78,107 13,87 74 8,19,39,43 17 78
LIKE A CANDY
TOM FORD
BALMAIN
TOM FORD
TADASHI SHOJI
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
6
7
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 MISSONI
VIVIENNE TAM
BALMAIN
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
8
9
CRISTIANO BURANI
CRISTIANO BURANI
CHRISTOPHER KANE
LIKE A CANDY
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CARLOS GIL
CARLOS GIL
DOLCE & GABBANA
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
10
11
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
MARY KATRANTZOU
DOLCE & GABBANA
LIKE A CANDY
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 PETER PILOTTO
HAIDER ACKERMANN
HAIDER ACKERMANN
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
12
13
VIONNET
PETER PILOTTO
PETER PILOTTO
LIKE A CANDY
BALMAIN
BALMAIN
MSGM
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
14
15
REDEMPTION
CRISTIANO BURANI
BALMAIN
LIKE A CANDY
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 MICHAEL KORS
INGIE PARIS
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
16
17
VLADIMIRO GIOIA
HALPERN
CHRISTOPHER KANE
LIKE A CANDY
flowers blossom
PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
18
19
ERDEM
VIVIENNE TAM
PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 OSCAR DE LA RENTA
CHANEL
ERDEM
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
20
21
DOLCE & GABBANA
DOLCE & GABBANA
NICOLE MILLER
flowers blossom
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 SIMONE ROCHA
JUNKO SHIMADA
DRIES VAN NOTEN
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
22
23
CHRISTIAN PELLIZZARI
ERDEM
LUISA BECCARIA
flowers blossom
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 EACH X OTHER
DOLCE & GABBANA
ANTONIO MARRAS
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
24
25
LUISA BECCARIA
ANTONIO MARRAS
FRANCESCA LIBERATORE
flowers blossom
UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS
VERSACE
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
26
27
MICHAEL KORS
MARTA JAKUBOWSKI
VERSACE
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 RALPH & RUSSO
ANNAKIKI
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
28
29
AKRIS
AU JOUR LE JOUR
CHANEL
UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 EMILIA WICKSTEAD
EACH X OTHER
DIOR
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
30
31
DRIES VAN NOTEN
DIOR
DRIES VAN NOTEN
UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 DEREK LAM
SONIA RYKIEL
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
32
33
EUDON CHOI
DIOR
DIOR
UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 DELPOZO
LAURA BIAGIOTTI
AU JOUR LE JOUR
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
34
35
ERDEM
LOEWE
LOEWE
UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 LAURA BIAGIOTTI
ANNAKIKI
AGNÈS B.
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
36
37
ERMANNO SCERVINO
LUCIO VANOTTI
NICOLE MILLER
UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 LUISA BECCARIA
ALBINO TEODORO
EMILIA WICKSTEAD
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
38
39
VIVIENNE TAM
LUISA BECCARIA
EMPORIO ARMANI
UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI
CIVIDINI
BOSS WOMEN
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
40
41
LAURA BIAGIOTTI
ALBINO TEODORO
LAURA BIAGIOTTI
UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 NATASHA ZINKO
MICHAEL KORS
MARTA JAKUBOWSKI
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
42
43
ERMANNO SCERVINO
VIVIENNE TAM
MARTA JAKUBOWSKI
UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ALTUZARRA
EMILIA WICKSTEAD
SPORTMAX
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
44
45
SPORTMAX
LUISA BECCARIA
BOTTEGA VENETA
UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS
visionary tailoring
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
46
47
ANNAKIKI
RICHARD MALONE
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 THOM BROWNE
MARY KATRANTZOU
ALTUZARRA
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
48
49
ALTUZARRA
RICHARD MALONE
MARY KATRANTZOU
visionary tailoring
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 EACH X OTHER
PORTS 1961
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
50
51
MARTA JAKUBOWSKI
CHALAYAN
DELPOZO
visionary tailoring
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 MILA SCHÖN
ANTONIO MARRAS
JUNYA WATANABE
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
52
53
CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION
JUNYA WATANABE
EACH X OTHER
visionary tailoring
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CHALAYAN
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
54
55
THOM BROWNE
CHALAYAN
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA
visionary tailoring
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ANNAKIKI
PORTS 1961
PALMER // HARDING
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
56
57
NATASHA ZINKO
MILA SCHÖN
ANNAKIKI
visionary tailoring
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 MOTHER OF PEARL
UMA WANG
RICHARD MALONE
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
58
59
TOGA
JIL SANDER
OFF WHITE
visionary tailoring
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 RICHARD MALONE
MARTA JAKUBOWSKI
MARTA JAKUBOWSKI
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
60
61
ANNAKIKI
TSUMORI CHISATO
TSUMORI CHISATO
visionary tailoring
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 MODEMENT
PORTS 1961
DELPOZO
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
62
63
SIMONE ROCHA
SIMONE ROCHA
TOGA
visionary tailoring
pinstriped
ERMANNO SCERVINO
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
64
65
ISABEL MARANT
CHIARA BONI LA PETITE ROBE
ERMANNO SCERVINO
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 DOLCE & GABBANA
DOLCE & GABBANA
ETRO
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
66
67
ETRO
EMPORIO ARMANI
EMPORIO ARMANI
pinstriped
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BORA AKSU
GUCCI
MOTHER OF PEARL
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
68
69
HOUSE OF HOLLAND
STELLA JEAN
BORA AKSU
pinstriped
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CIVIDINI
GARETH PUGH
CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION
surfaces
CRISTIANO BURANI
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
72
73
INGIE PARIS
AKRIS
CRISTIANO BURANI
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 TOM FORD
VIVETTA
TOM FORD
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
74
75
LAURA BIAGIOTTI
TOM FORD
EMPORIO ARMANI
surfaces
two-tone
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
76
77
ROKSANDA
UNDERCOVER
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA
VERSACE
YANG LI
TIBI
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
78
79
PRABAL GURUNG
DOLCE & GABBANA
TIBI
two-tone
kimono
TEATUM JONES
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
80
81
STELLA McCARTNEY
TEATUM JONES
TEATUM JONES
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 PETER PILOTTO
TEATUM JONES
TEATUM JONES
kimono AGNONA
BORA AKSU
DELPOZO
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
82
83
color blocks
CAROLINA HERRERA
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
84
85
PICCIONE.PICCIONE
MARTA JAKUBOWSKI
CAROLINA HERRERA
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 EUDON CHOI
CARLOS GIL
MARTA JAKUBOWSKI
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
86
87
VIONNET
MARTA JAKUBOWSKI
ROKSANDA
color blocks
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 H&M
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
ROKSANDA
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
88
89
GUY LAROCHE
CARLOS GIL
BOTTEGA VENETA
color blocks
FRILLS & RUCHES
BORA AKSU
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
90
91
PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI
PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI
BORA AKSU
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BORA AKSU
ERMANNO SCERVINO
BLUMARINE
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
92
93
COACH
BORA AKSU
BORA AKSU
FRILLS & RUCHES
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BORA AKSU
BORA AKSU
BORA AKSU
PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI
CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ
NADYA DZYAK
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
94
95
FRILLS & RUCHES
PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI
DELPOZO
PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI
ERMANNO SCERVINO
BORA AKSU
PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 SIMONE ROCHA
TEATUM JONES
TEATUM JONES
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
96
97
BORA AKSU
ERMANNO SCERVINO
BROCK COLLECTION
FRILLS & RUCHES
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 FRANCESCA LIBERATORE
BORA AKSU
BORA AKSU
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
98
99
MICHAEL KORS
CHANEL
BORA AKSU
FRILLS & RUCHES
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 HALPERN
ERMANNO SCERVINO
ERMANNO SCERVINO
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
100
101
BLUMARINE
BORA AKSU
BORA AKSU
FRILLS & RUCHES
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CHRISTOPHER KANE
CHANEL
CHANEL
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
102 103
ERMANNO SCERVINO
BLUMARINE
CHANEL
FRILLS & RUCHES
Fluo Addiction
PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
104 105
CAROLINA HERRERA
PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI
CAROLINA HERRERA
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CURIEL
TOM FORD
TOM FORD
FASHION EAST - SUPRIYA LELE
PRADA
PRADA
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
106 107
Fluo Addiction
BALMAIN
BALMAIN
CUSHNIE ET OCHS
CUSHNIE ET OCHS
VERSACE
PRADA
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 MARNI
JASPER CONRAN
JASPER CONRAN
flowers of life
CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
110
111
PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI
BORA AKSU
SAINT LAURENT PARIS
N°21
CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ
SAINT LAURENT PARIS
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BLUMARINE
GUCCI
BORA AKSU
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
112
113
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
ARTHUR ARBESSER
À DÉTACHER
flowers of life
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 PRABAL GURUNG
DIOR
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
114
115
HOUSE OF HOLLAND
MOTHER OF PEARL
DELPOZO
flowers of life
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 OSCAR DE LA RENTA
MICHAEL KORS
À DÉTACHER
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
116
117
PETER PILOTTO
NICOLE MILLER
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
flowers of life
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ERDEM
NICOLE MILLER
TORY BURCH
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
118
119
NICOLE MILLER
N°21
LUISA BECCARIA
flowers of life
Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ERDEM
ETRO
MICHAEL KORS
Fashion Focus suits.dresses
120
121
MICHAEL KORS
BROCK COLLECTION
ERDEM
flowers of life
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ready-to-wear collections from milan, paris, london and ny, but a detailed review of kids, man and haute couture catwalks). Very early publishing date. Trends: a summary of the main trends and the most interesting moods intercepted in the seasons's international collections. A selection of the most important fashion shows and the unmissable brands, to provide an overview of everything that is trendy in every fashion week.
• • • •
• La più completa collana sul mercato (non solo le collezioni prêt-à-porter di milano, parigi, londra e new uomo, bambino, alta moda e modest fashion). • Massima rapidità nell'uscita. • Trend: una sintesi delle tendenze principali e dei mood più interessanti intercettati nelle nuove collezioni internazionali. • dei brand imperdibili, per offrire una visione d’insieme su tutto ciò che fa tendenza in ogni fashion week.
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