FASHION FOCUS SUITS.DRESSES 5 FW 18/19

Page 1

FASHION FOCUS WOMAN SUITS.DRESSES - autumn winter 18.19 - N.5 SIX MONTHLY REVIEW - €59,00 ITALY

.5

wo man aw. 1 8 .19



A

ROBERTO CAVALLI

PUBLISHER AND DISTRIBUTOR PUBLISH FOR SRL Via Montenero 4/2A 40131 Bologna, Italy staff @publish-for.com www.fashionfocusmag.com EDITOR-IN-CHARGE Lidia Casari staff @publish-for.com GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Burzoni DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Silvia Bottini distribution@publish-for.com SUBSCRIPTIONS MANAGER Luciana Palmulli subscriptions@publish-for.com ADVERTISING marketing@publish-for.com CENTRO STAMPA DIGITALPRINT SRL RIMINI (RN), Italy APRIL 2018

t a time when the professional fashion sector is constantly looking for new inputs and inspirational sources that are able to optimize the creative research and the design of new collections, the Fashion Focus series confirms itself as an essential tool to deepen the trend analysis of each specific product category when it comes to women's wardrobe; the wide range of titles can guarantee a complete and exhaustive vision of all the style variations and the new models presented by the international designers, who are the protagonists of the most prestigious fashion weeks on a global level. From Milan to Paris, from New York to Madrid and Barcelona, ​​the Autumn/Winter 2018-19 season highlights the desire for an eclectic wardrobe that is not strictly connected to the concept of "gender", in which the male and female outfits alternate on the catwalk seamlessly, creating a creative unicum that aims to redefine not only lines and volumes, but also color palettes and decorative elements considered up to now as true stylistic taboos. We should not be surprised, therefore, if this new idea of ​​feminine wearability brings to the limelight outerwear pieces with a rigid and intentionally oversized structure, ultra-tech details that recall the world of sport competitions, massive footwear with exaggerated platforms, sartorial asymmetries. Between re-tradition and revolutionary visions that look to the future, everything is fluid and hybrid, subject to a new definition of the style that will come.

I

n un momento in cui il settore della moda professionale è alla continua ricerca di nuovi input e materiali d’ispirazione che possano ottimizzare la ricerca creativa e la progettazione delle collezioni, la collana Fashion Focus si conferma uno strumento indispensabile per approfondire l’analisi delle tendenze di ogni specifica categoria di prodotto del guardaroba femminile, garantendo una visione completa ed esauriente di tutte le varianti stilistiche e i nuovi modelli presentati dagli stilisti internazionali, protagonisti delle fashion week più prestigiose a livello globale. Da Milano a Parigi, da New York fino a Madrid e Barcellona, la stagione Autunno/Inverno 2018-19 mette in luce in maniera sempre più evidente la voglia di un guardaroba eclettico e non strettamente connesso al concetto di “genere”, in cui gli outfit maschili e femminili si alternano in passerella senza soluzione di continuità, creando un unicum creativo che punta a ridefinire non solo linee e volumi, ma anche gamme cromatiche ed elementi decorativi considerati fino ad oggi come veri e propri tabù stilistici. Non ci si dovrà stupire, quindi, se questa nuova idea di vestibilità femminile porta alla ribalta capi spalla dalla struttura rigida e volutamente oversize, dettagli ultra-tecnici che richiamano il mondo dell’agonismo sportivo, calzature massicce dai platform esagerati, asimmetrie sartoriali. Tra ripescaggi della tradizione e visioni rivoluzionarie che guardano al futuro, tutto è fluido e ibrido, soggetto a una nuova definizione dello stile che verrà.


SUITS.DRESSES contents SUITS

6  LIKE A CANDY

18  flowers blossom

26  UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS

76 two-tone

80 kimono

84 color blocks

FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE: MILAN, PARIS, NEW YORK, LONDON


46 visionary tailoring

64 pinstriped

72 surfaces

104 Fluo Addiction

110  flowers of life

DRESSES

90 FRILLS & RUCHES


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FIND a brand easily 3.1 PHILLIP LIM À DÉTACHER AGNÈS B. AGNONA AKRIS ALBINO TEODORO ALEXANDER MCQUEEN ALTUZARRA ANNAKIKI ANTONIO MARRAS ARTHUR ARBESSER AU JOUR LE JOUR BALMAIN BLUMARINE BORA AKSU BOSS WOMEN BOTTEGA VENETA BROCK COLLECTION CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION CARLOS GIL CAROLINA HERRERA CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA CHALAYAN CHANEL CHIARA BONI LA PETITE ROBE CHRISTIAN PELLIZZARI CHRISTIAN SIRIANO CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ CHRISTOPHER KANE CIVIDINI COACH CRISTIANO BURANI CURIEL CUSHNIE ET OCHS DELPOZO DEREK LAM DIOR DOLCE & GABBANA DRIES VAN NOTEN EACH X OTHER EMILIA WICKSTEAD EMPORIO ARMANI ERDEM ERMANNO SCERVINO ETRO EUDON CHOI FASHION EAST - SUPRIYA LELE FRANCESCA LIBERATORE GARETH PUGH GIAMBATTISTA VALLI GUCCI GUY LAROCHE H&M HAIDER ACKERMANN HALPERN HOUSE OF HOLLAND INGIE PARIS ISABEL MARANT

28,113,114 113,116 36 83 29,73 38,41 50 44,48,49 28,36,47,56,57,61 24,25,52 113 29,34 7,8,14,15,107 92,101,103,112 68,69,83,90,91,92,93,94,95,97,98,98,99,101,111,112 40 45,89 97,121 53,7 10,86,89 84,85,105 46,47,54,55,76,77 51,54,55 20,29,99,102,103 65 23 11,16 94,110,111 9,17,102 4070 93 9,15,72,73 106 107 34,51,62,83,95,115 32 30,31,33,114 10,11,21,24,66,79 22,31 24,30,50,53 30,38,44 39,67,75 19,20,23,35,118,120,121 37,43,64,65,92,95,97,100,103 66,67,120 33,86 106 25 70 32 68,112 89 88 12 17100 69,115 16,73 65

JASPER CONRAN JIL SANDER JUNKO SHIMADA JUNYA WATANABE LAURA BIAGIOTTI LOEWE LUCIO VANOTTI LUISA BECCARIA MARNI MARTA JAKUBOWSKI MARY KATRANTZOU MICHAEL KORS MILA SCHÖN MISSONI MODEMENT MOTHER OF PEARL MSGM N°21 NADYA DZYAK NATASHA ZINKO NICOLE MILLER OFF WHITE OSCAR DE LA RENTA PALMER // HARDING PETER PILOTTO PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI PICCIONE.PICCIONE PORTS 1961 PRABAL GURUNG PRADA PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI RALPH & RUSSO REDEMPTION RICHARD MALONE ROKSANDA SAINT LAURENT PARIS SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SIMONE ROCHA SONIA RYKIEL SPORTMAX STELLA JEAN STELLA McCARTNEY TADASHI SHOJI TEATUM JONES THOM BROWNE TIBI TOGA TOM FORD TORY BURCH TSUMORI CHISATO UMA WANG UNDERCOVER VERSACE VIONNET VIVETTA VIVIENNE TAM VLADIMIRO GIOIA YANG LI

108 59 22 52,53 34,36,41,75 35 37 23,25,38,39,45,119 108 27,42,43,51,60,85,86,87 11,48,49 16,27,42,99,116,120,121 52,57 8 62 58,68,115 14 111,119 94 42,57 21,37,117,118,119 59 20,116,117 56 12,13,82,117 40,91,94,95,111 85 50,56,62 79,114 106,107 18,19,104,105 28 15 47,49,58,60 77,87,88 111 88 22,63,96 32 44,45 69 81 7 80,81,82,96 48,55 78,79 59,63 6,7,74,75,106 118 61 58 77 26,27,78,107 13,87 74 8,19,39,43 17 78


LIKE A CANDY

TOM FORD


BALMAIN

TOM FORD

TADASHI SHOJI

Fashion Focus suits.dresses

6

7


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 MISSONI

VIVIENNE TAM

BALMAIN


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

8

9

CRISTIANO BURANI

CRISTIANO BURANI

CHRISTOPHER KANE

LIKE A CANDY


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CARLOS GIL

CARLOS GIL

DOLCE & GABBANA


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

10

11

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

MARY KATRANTZOU

DOLCE & GABBANA

LIKE A CANDY


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 PETER PILOTTO

HAIDER ACKERMANN

HAIDER ACKERMANN


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

12

13

VIONNET

PETER PILOTTO

PETER PILOTTO

LIKE A CANDY


BALMAIN

BALMAIN

MSGM

Autumn.Winter 18.1 9


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

14

15

REDEMPTION

CRISTIANO BURANI

BALMAIN

LIKE A CANDY


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 MICHAEL KORS

INGIE PARIS

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

16

17

VLADIMIRO GIOIA

HALPERN

CHRISTOPHER KANE

LIKE A CANDY


flowers blossom

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

18

19

ERDEM

VIVIENNE TAM

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 OSCAR DE LA RENTA

CHANEL

ERDEM


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

20

21

DOLCE & GABBANA

DOLCE & GABBANA

NICOLE MILLER

flowers blossom


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 SIMONE ROCHA

JUNKO SHIMADA

DRIES VAN NOTEN


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

22

23

CHRISTIAN PELLIZZARI

ERDEM

LUISA BECCARIA

flowers blossom


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 EACH X OTHER

DOLCE & GABBANA

ANTONIO MARRAS


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

24

25

LUISA BECCARIA

ANTONIO MARRAS

FRANCESCA LIBERATORE

flowers blossom


UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS

VERSACE


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

26

27

MICHAEL KORS

MARTA JAKUBOWSKI

VERSACE


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 RALPH & RUSSO

ANNAKIKI

3.1 PHILLIP LIM


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

28

29

AKRIS

AU JOUR LE JOUR

CHANEL

UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 EMILIA WICKSTEAD

EACH X OTHER

DIOR


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

30

31

DRIES VAN NOTEN

DIOR

DRIES VAN NOTEN

UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 DEREK LAM

SONIA RYKIEL

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

32

33

EUDON CHOI

DIOR

DIOR

UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 DELPOZO

LAURA BIAGIOTTI

AU JOUR LE JOUR


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

34

35

ERDEM

LOEWE

LOEWE

UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 LAURA BIAGIOTTI

ANNAKIKI

AGNÈS B.


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

36

37

ERMANNO SCERVINO

LUCIO VANOTTI

NICOLE MILLER

UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 LUISA BECCARIA

ALBINO TEODORO

EMILIA WICKSTEAD


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

38

39

VIVIENNE TAM

LUISA BECCARIA

EMPORIO ARMANI

UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI

CIVIDINI

BOSS WOMEN


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

40

41

LAURA BIAGIOTTI

ALBINO TEODORO

LAURA BIAGIOTTI

UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 NATASHA ZINKO

MICHAEL KORS

MARTA JAKUBOWSKI


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

42

43

ERMANNO SCERVINO

VIVIENNE TAM

MARTA JAKUBOWSKI

UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ALTUZARRA

EMILIA WICKSTEAD

SPORTMAX


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

44

45

SPORTMAX

LUISA BECCARIA

BOTTEGA VENETA

UNCONVENTIONAL CHECKS


visionary tailoring

CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

46

47

ANNAKIKI

RICHARD MALONE

CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 THOM BROWNE

MARY KATRANTZOU

ALTUZARRA


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

48

49

ALTUZARRA

RICHARD MALONE

MARY KATRANTZOU

visionary tailoring


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 EACH X OTHER

PORTS 1961

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

50

51

MARTA JAKUBOWSKI

CHALAYAN

DELPOZO

visionary tailoring


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 MILA SCHÖN

ANTONIO MARRAS

JUNYA WATANABE


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

52

53

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION

JUNYA WATANABE

EACH X OTHER

visionary tailoring


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CHALAYAN

CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA

CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

54

55

THOM BROWNE

CHALAYAN

CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA

visionary tailoring


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ANNAKIKI

PORTS 1961

PALMER // HARDING


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

56

57

NATASHA ZINKO

MILA SCHÖN

ANNAKIKI

visionary tailoring


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 MOTHER OF PEARL

UMA WANG

RICHARD MALONE


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

58

59

TOGA

JIL SANDER

OFF WHITE

visionary tailoring


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 RICHARD MALONE

MARTA JAKUBOWSKI

MARTA JAKUBOWSKI


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

60

61

ANNAKIKI

TSUMORI CHISATO

TSUMORI CHISATO

visionary tailoring


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 MODEMENT

PORTS 1961

DELPOZO


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

62

63

SIMONE ROCHA

SIMONE ROCHA

TOGA

visionary tailoring


pinstriped

ERMANNO SCERVINO


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

64

65

ISABEL MARANT

CHIARA BONI LA PETITE ROBE

ERMANNO SCERVINO


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 DOLCE & GABBANA

DOLCE & GABBANA

ETRO


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

66

67

ETRO

EMPORIO ARMANI

EMPORIO ARMANI

pinstriped


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BORA AKSU

GUCCI

MOTHER OF PEARL


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

68

69

HOUSE OF HOLLAND

STELLA JEAN

BORA AKSU

pinstriped


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CIVIDINI

GARETH PUGH

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION



surfaces

CRISTIANO BURANI


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

72

73

INGIE PARIS

AKRIS

CRISTIANO BURANI


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 TOM FORD

VIVETTA

TOM FORD


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

74

75

LAURA BIAGIOTTI

TOM FORD

EMPORIO ARMANI

surfaces


two-tone

CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

76

77

ROKSANDA

UNDERCOVER

CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA


VERSACE

YANG LI

TIBI

Autumn.Winter 18.1 9


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

78

79

PRABAL GURUNG

DOLCE & GABBANA

TIBI

two-tone


kimono

TEATUM JONES


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

80

81

STELLA McCARTNEY

TEATUM JONES

TEATUM JONES


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 PETER PILOTTO

TEATUM JONES

TEATUM JONES


kimono AGNONA

BORA AKSU

DELPOZO

Fashion Focus suits.dresses

82

83


color blocks

CAROLINA HERRERA


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

84

85

PICCIONE.PICCIONE

MARTA JAKUBOWSKI

CAROLINA HERRERA


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 EUDON CHOI

CARLOS GIL

MARTA JAKUBOWSKI


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

86

87

VIONNET

MARTA JAKUBOWSKI

ROKSANDA

color blocks


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 H&M

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

ROKSANDA


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

88

89

GUY LAROCHE

CARLOS GIL

BOTTEGA VENETA

color blocks


FRILLS & RUCHES

BORA AKSU


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

90

91

PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI

PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI

BORA AKSU


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BORA AKSU

ERMANNO SCERVINO

BLUMARINE


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

92

93

COACH

BORA AKSU

BORA AKSU

FRILLS & RUCHES


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BORA AKSU

BORA AKSU

BORA AKSU

PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI

CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ

NADYA DZYAK


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

94

95

FRILLS & RUCHES

PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI

DELPOZO

PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI

ERMANNO SCERVINO

BORA AKSU

PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 SIMONE ROCHA

TEATUM JONES

TEATUM JONES


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

96

97

BORA AKSU

ERMANNO SCERVINO

BROCK COLLECTION

FRILLS & RUCHES


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 FRANCESCA LIBERATORE

BORA AKSU

BORA AKSU


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

98

99

MICHAEL KORS

CHANEL

BORA AKSU

FRILLS & RUCHES


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 HALPERN

ERMANNO SCERVINO

ERMANNO SCERVINO


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

100

101

BLUMARINE

BORA AKSU

BORA AKSU

FRILLS & RUCHES


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CHRISTOPHER KANE

CHANEL

CHANEL


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

102 103

ERMANNO SCERVINO

BLUMARINE

CHANEL

FRILLS & RUCHES


Fluo Addiction

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

104 105

CAROLINA HERRERA

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI

CAROLINA HERRERA


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 CURIEL

TOM FORD

TOM FORD

FASHION EAST - SUPRIYA LELE

PRADA

PRADA


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

106 107

Fluo Addiction

BALMAIN

BALMAIN

CUSHNIE ET OCHS

CUSHNIE ET OCHS

VERSACE

PRADA


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 MARNI

JASPER CONRAN

JASPER CONRAN



flowers of life

CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

110

111

PHILOSOPHY di LORENZO SERAFINI

BORA AKSU

SAINT LAURENT PARIS

N°21

CHRISTOPHE GUILLARMÉ

SAINT LAURENT PARIS


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 BLUMARINE

GUCCI

BORA AKSU


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

112

113

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

ARTHUR ARBESSER

À DÉTACHER

flowers of life


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 PRABAL GURUNG

DIOR

3.1 PHILLIP LIM


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

114

115

HOUSE OF HOLLAND

MOTHER OF PEARL

DELPOZO

flowers of life


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 OSCAR DE LA RENTA

MICHAEL KORS

À DÉTACHER


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

116

117

PETER PILOTTO

NICOLE MILLER

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

flowers of life


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ERDEM

NICOLE MILLER

TORY BURCH


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

118

119

NICOLE MILLER

N°21

LUISA BECCARIA

flowers of life


Autumn.Winter 18.1 9 ERDEM

ETRO

MICHAEL KORS


Fashion Focus suits.dresses

120

121

MICHAEL KORS

BROCK COLLECTION

ERDEM

flowers of life


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• • • •

,SKLAWTAC E HT MORF TOH SK E EW NOI H SAF POT E HT LLA SKOOL TSEB WEoverview IVE RP SofDthe OO M The most comprehensive latest designer collections SEGA(not M Ijust EGwoman AP LL UF

ready-to-wear collections from milan, paris, london and ny, but a detailed review of kids, man and haute couture catwalks). Very early publishing date. Trends: a summary of the main trends and the most interesting moods intercepted in the seasons's international collections. A selection of the most important fashion shows and the unmissable brands, to provide an overview of everything that is trendy in every fashion week.

• • • •

• La più completa collana sul mercato (non solo le collezioni prêt-à-porter di milano, parigi, londra e new uomo, bambino, alta moda e modest fashion). • Massima rapidità nell'uscita. • Trend: una sintesi delle tendenze principali e dei mood più interessanti intercettati nelle nuove collezioni internazionali. • dei brand imperdibili, per offrire una visione d’insieme su tutto ciò che fa tendenza in ogni fashion week.

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