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Foreword by Alia Khan Chairwoman Islamic Fashion and Design Council [extract from her speech at Torino Fashion Week, Italy] […]
FASHION GALLERY MODEST PR SS18 - N.2 SIX MONTHLY REVIEW - €55 (ITALY ONLY)
B DIAN PELANGI
PUBLISHER PUBLISH FOR SRL Via Montenero 4/2A 40131 Bologna, Italy staff@publish-for.com www.fashionfocusmag.com EDITOR-IN-CHARGE Lidia Casari staff@publish-for.com ART DIRECTOR Marco Burzoni GRAPHIC DESIGN Rossana De Nigris CONTRIBUTORS Michele Moricci, Sara Al Bukhari DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Silvia Bottini distribution@publish-for.com SUBSCRIPTIONS MANAGER Luciana Palmulli subscriptions@publish-for.com ADVERTISING marketing@publish-for.com PHOTOS COURTESY Image.net by Getty Images (Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia), Pardesi Photo (Modanisa London Modest Fashion Week), Torino Fashion Week CO-PRODUCER IFDC - Islamic Fashion & Design Council www.ifdcouncil.org
FOTOINCISA MODENESE Modena (MO) Italy OCTOBER 2017
eauty is a power, it has the types of effects on people that very few other things have. It compels people to mobilize, it is motivating and inspiring. In the spirit of what we have seen at Torino Fashion Week, I believe it is important to make a pledge to commit yourself everyday to beauty. Make something beautiful happen everyday. And keep going until the world is filled with only beautiful things. We know for the talented fashion designers that all showcased at Torino Fashion Week, they do just that. Every morning they wake up, they take a beautiful idea and manifest it into reality. And we have certainly been the beneficiaries of that reality in the days of TFW. I am genuinely proud of them and what they achieved with their catwalk shows. In a world where we are increasingly seeing a refusal to understand, unite, and build; where we are seeing unnecessary and unproductive ideology of division, we have proven through Torino Fashion Week that the contrary yields superior results. What made headlines as a historic deal between a mainstream fashion week and an Islamic fashion and design council, has now been realized with success and we have proven the building blocks of society work best when we remove the barriers and unite and support one another. As IFDC worked closely with the TFW team, a strong sense of respect and a freedom to “be” was the joint central theme that became the formula for our partnership’s success. Together we’ve reached the conclusion of a symbolically powerful event, and we have proven that this model surely works as we encourage others to partake in similar partnerships. It was because of our differences, that we were able to be of value to each other. Together, we jointly brought immense skill sets and support that could not have otherwise been realized without this union. We knew this was a beautiful meeting of the cultures, minds, and hearts, which is what made our work so special.
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CONTENTS PROFILES 04 54 70
MORFOSIS EKATERINA KUKHAREVA GRETEL ZANOTTI
05
TORINO FASHION WEEK
06 12 14 18 26 32 40 46
AAB BAMBAH BOUTIQUE DE NANA BULBULIA THREADS CHENILLE ELLA BRIZADLY & PRIBUMI ® INSANIYAH NATASHA KAMAL
55
ARAB FASHION WEEK DUBAI
56 58 60 62 64 66 68
ANTONIO MARRAS INGIE PARIS JEANS COUTURE MARCHESA MRHUA MRSHUA RENATO BALESTRA ZOË ECKETT
71
MODANISA MODEST FASHION WEEK LONDON
72 73 74 75 76 77
DARRELINA BY DIANN-FASHION FARRAH NAAZ FLLUMAÉ GULSHAAN PILLAR SAIQA MAJEED
79
AMAZON FASHION WEEK TOKYO
80 84 90 94
AKIKOAOKI RANI HATTA TAE ASHIDA YUKI TORII INTERNATIONAL
101
MERCEDES BENZ FASHION WEEK RUSSIA
102
FIRDAWS
MORFOSIS I N CO M PLETE Text by Michele Moricci
PER FECTI O N
Morfosis is a journey through stories, imperfect and constantly in motion. This is the philosophy of the Italian brand and from this concept their A/I 2017-18 collection comes to life, combining into a mix of elegant contaminations. Alessandra Capiello, Roman designer, carries out her classical studies, being inspired by her grandmother’s creativity since when she was a child. She collaborates with the well-known Italian Company Malloni, launches Morfosis in 2004 and wins the 'Who's On Next?' contest 4th edition four years later. Her collections go centre stage in Paris, Tokyo and Milan catwalks.
Capiello's search spans art, intuition, and tradition. An essential and refined research with a multi-faceted aesthetic, outlining the perfect profile of today’s modern and eclectic women. The Morfosis outfits, in fact, interpret the Italian sartorial tradition and the iconic elegance by Schiaparelli and Vionnet. Morfosis plays with clean lines, sophisticated layerings and balanced color ranges. The romance of chiffon and crêpe cady meets the metropolitan charm of leather. Woolen satin wraps soft silk and lace details. In a stylish stream of refined femininity, statement collars, blouses with wispy sleeves, flared trousers and minimal outerwear. The brown tone goes with curcuma, the blue blends in olive green, while burgundy pink and gray alternate with the reverent simplicity of black. Looking for an incomplete balance, Morfosis explores imperfection with a continuous stylistic narrative, giving the contemporary woman a synthetic, graceful and individual charm. www.morfosis.it
TO R I N O
FASHION WEEK PHOTOS COURTESY OF TORINO FASHION WEEK. TEXTS BY SARA AL BUKHARI IN COLLABORATION WITH TORINO FASHION WEEK
As we keep on exploring Modest fashion all over the world, last July a major event concerning the new flourishing Modest outfits was hosted by the Torino Fashion Week in collaboration with the IFDC bringing in 23 Modest designers from all over the globe. Since Claudio Azzolini, founder of TFW and President Association TMODA had always felt that “this event is a terrific opportunity for modest designers to showcase their talent and skill to the world”, he is particularly pleased with TFW’s partnership with IFDC. A mix of well-known and emerging designers have come along to share one of the most contemporary yet ancient ideas in fashion: Modesty. Regardless the event only Muslim Modest fashion designers showcased on the runway. From Indonesia to South Africa, from Turin all over to Australia and back to the Middle East overtaking several cultural, traditional ideas and more by bringing them together by creating a new type of fashion that year after year drops in new particularities of what this segment of fashion is about to become. A global known market with a huge estimate in numbers is expected to grow even further on within the next years.
AAB
Aab has over ten years of expertise delivering beautiful and premium designs. “Our quality tailoring, luxurious fabrics, fluid silhouettes and intricate detailing are all hallmarks of our timeless aesthetic that is effortlessly stylish and undoubtedly Aab. Detail is everything to us, each piece is carefully curated and designed to bring effortless style and chic updates whilst heralding our iconic signature detailing. Distinguished by our distinct DNA, Aab continues to provide a range of beautiful modest clothing for women from season to season. From singular staple pieces easily transitioned from one collection to the next, our interchangeable items are one of the keys to our success. It’s not about ‘fast fashion’ but pieces that make a style statement and will last you a lifetime. Our vision: as a leader in the modest fashion industry, our aim is to continue to clothe women modestly and reach out globally. More importantly, to ensure that high standards are maintained across all areas of our business – from our workers to our customers”. www.aabcollection.com
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AAB 10 11
AAB 12 13
BAMBAH
Three days of total modest have brought together designers: Bambah with Maha Abdul Rasheed, who won the Luxury Award with her collection inspired by her mum. Elegant, from soft pink to golden all way to uncover natural colors, dropped in with the intention of bringing a timeless, elegant, and vintage inspired collection to Dubai and the Middle East. Capturing the hearts of the world’s sartorial elite from its very first collection, the brand exudes femininity, elegance, and bold signature shapes whilst reflecting a modern and refined mark that resonates with today’s woman. Luxurious fabrics, unapologetically lady-like silhouettes and striking colour-ways come together each season to create a new and exciting offering. Featuring unexpected, but brilliant pairings and mix and matches, it’s all about those spectacular statements that inject fun into women’s wardrobes. With its generous ruffles, bare shoulders, oversized bows and colourful floral prints- it becomes perfect for weddings and red carpets, your best friend’s wedding, South of Italy; or simply, where the sun shines. www.bambah.com
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BOUTIQUE DE NANA
Fashionably unique and modestly chic. Boutique De Nana is a luxury modest fashion brand based in the United Kingdom. “We strive on uniqueness and setting trends. The aim of the brand is to bring out the beauty and uniqueness of modest fashion and fuse eastern modesty with western quirk. Our designs are made with the finest and rather carefully selected fabrics to make them exquisitely chic. What sets our designs different is the fact that so much passion is poured into each garment that is designed and made, which is why our BDN woman could be confident that the garment she buys from our line is made to perfection with love. We also tend to sway from what is trending and come up with our own trends, which sometimes only come in style two or three seasons after. Our favourite saying is that “God is beautiful and He loves beauty” which is why we strive to create pieces that make our BDN women look and feel unique and beautiful.
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BOUTIQUE DE NANA
BULBULIA THREADS
Bulbulia Threads brand vision is to promote South African apparel by providing great quality garments which are fashion forward, affordable and encourage positive perceptions around cultural and religious influence. Brand Mission: “We strive to make responsible, meaningful, apparel that shows cultural and religious lifestyles, through an empowering lens, and also enhance confidence while still providing a channel for expression. Our mission is to connect with fashion conscious women in a Western world and stay true to an authentic and modest influence”. Brand Promise: Bulbulia Threads promises to provide apparel which is high quality, which can be worn to observe the modest influence of both cultural and religious requirements, but still keeping ahead of trends and fashion influence. Brand Position: Bulbulia Threads aims to fulfil the need of modest women in SA who are seeking fashion forward apparel, following the principles of cultural and religious requirements. Brand Personality: “Bulbulia Threads is a fun-loving, fashion forward, modest brand! We strive to remain respectful and still playful in our apparel offering”. www.bulbuliathreads.com
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BULBULIA THREADS
DETAILS
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CHENILLE
Chenille who has always been around graphic prints, has come out with an interesting graphic prints collection that was inspired by the importance of education. “Our brand’s commitment is to become an eclectic and innovative design house to bridge the gap between fashion and modesty and take it to a global audience”. Originating from UK, the Creative Director and Designer, Afsana Haji, polished her design skills through the London College of Fashion. Based out of her studio in Dubai, her appetite to make unique clothing pushed her creativity, tailoring a contemporary, quirky and vintage clothing line for the cutting edge fashionistas. The Chenille Muse is a combination of East and West; Afsana stays true to her culture by developing modest jackets, trendy thobes/kanduras, dresses, abayas and capes using luxe fabrics. Afsana’s designs consistently try to weave together the traditional and the modern by relying on materials and prints that have iconic cuts. Combined with her in-house quirky signature prints, the result is part vintage, part traditional silhouettes. The response to her quirky and ‘modern meets traditional’ designs have created quite a stir in the Middle East region and worldwide. Chenille has been showcased at Major retailers including House of Fraser (Abu Dhabi). www.chenille-boutique.co.uk
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CHENILLE
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CHENILLE
ELLA BRIZADLY & PRIBUMI…®
Ella Brizadly & PRibuMI…® was formed and grew up to be an authentic brand that fully represent the exotic of Indonesia textiles by creating a product line-up that consist of exclusive handbags, footwear and small leather goods to their product line-up. PRibuMI…® products are created by combining Indonesia Traditional cloths: Batik and Indonesian weaving cloth with high quality premium leather. All Ella Brizadly & PRibuMI…® products go through an intricate process, made with high quality materials so they can be worn with pride. The creative juice just can’t stop flowing. That’s what happened to Ella. After PRibuMI…®, she came on strong with a ready to wear fashion line that combining colors and unique prints, brings the sense of luxurious and yet very subtle and comfortable to wear. Ella Brizadly – that’s the name of Ella’s fashion line, is made with a deep understanding on how hard for women to find the right dress, with the perfect cut, and fit in all the right places. Ella decided to make those dresses awesomely flatter the body, make the ones who wear them look and feel confident at any time. www.pribumi.co.id / www.ellabrizadly.com
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ELLA BRIZADLY & PRIBUMI…®
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ELLA BRIZADLY & PRIBUMI…®
DETAILS
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ELLA BRIZADLY & PRIBUMI…®
INSANIYAH
“Insaniyah 2.0 Collection is designed minimalist, as we want to bring a universal feel to it. The collection is added with a little bit of timeless trendy element. It is somehow a collection of what we all love to see and we vision the wearer to feel the same way too. The collection consists of neutrals shades such as black, white, beige and grey. We keep the collection plain, with a twist of drapes and pleats which the wearer can easily mix & match with any accessories or leave it on its own�. www.insaniyah.com
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INSANIYAH
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INSANIYAH
NATASHA KAMAL
“Since inception, the brand ‘Natasha Kamal’ has focused on reinterpreting and modernizing time-treasured classics and techniques. This break away from convention is an attempt to capture the freedom and independence we want for ourselves. Stylish statement pieces in understated hues are the foundation. Staying true to our aesthetics, our collections embody a modern take on femininity. The harmonious composition of minimalist tailored silhouettes, sumptuous fabrications and couture hand embroidered details encapsulate relaxed and timeless elegance with a bohemian flare”. www.natashakamal.com
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NATASHA KAMAL
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NATASHA KAMAL
DETAILS
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NATASHA KAMAL
EKATERINA KUKHAREVA A
K N IT T E D
CO NT E M PO RA RY FA I RY TA L E Text by Michele Moricci Tricot, ruffles and amplified volumes. Olive green, blue and shades of rose. Femininity as an expression of a contemporary revolution: these are the protagonists of the Autumn/Winter 17-18 collection by Ekaterina Kukhareva. Feminine and vulnerable but bold and edgy at the same time, the ‘Ekaterina K.’ line outlines the profile of a contemporary woman in search of a sumptuous, urban and individual dimension. Beautiful and queenly as in John William Waterhouse’s Arthurian portraits, Ekaterina Kukhareva's woman wears high-quality knitwear based on sleek lines with a bulky, structured softness. Oversized cardigans, palazzo pants and ribbed trousers, full-length skirts and Pre-Raphaelite style dresses embellished with floral patterns and romantic ripples compose her collection. She ventures in delicate chiffon transparency, shiny lurex and Swarovski crystals.
The innovative and strategic approach of this Ukrainian designer is the result of her textile design training at Central Saint Martin's in London. Kukhareva's stylistic philosophy consolidated during her working experience at Temperley London, until when her own label became reality in 2011. Kukhareva re-interprets classic style, revisiting it audibly. Luxury fabrics, elaborate patterns, refined cuts, attention to fit and wearability and a stunning color usage create the DNA of this brand that adds a contemporary and eccentric twist - even dramatic – to a very trendy, inspiring knitwear range. www.kukhareva.com
ARAB FASHION WEEK D U BAI
ANTONIO MARRAS
58 59
INGIE PARIS
60 61
JEANS COUTURE
62 63
MARCHESA
64 65
MRHUA MRSHUA
66 67
RENATO BALESTRA
68 69
ZOË ECKETT
70 71
GRETEL ZANOTTI D E L I CAT E
LOVE
P RO FU S I O N
Text by Michele Moricci Gretel Zanotti’s stylistic and evocative romanticism meets the refined pictorial elegance of William Bouguereau; an ethereal vision taking the cue from this French painter and giving expression to a fluid communication between beauty, art and style. Neoclassical and Oriental influences converge in the AW/2017-18 collection of this very young Italian designer. Black overlaps with the delicate shades of white and cream, the soft hues of pale-blue and peach. Geometric cuts and sinuous silhouettes create the perfect match between positivity, charm and love for fashion.
Flawless and dynamic like a modern Grace Kelly, Gretel Zanotti’s kind of woman looks dreamy and fairy. An archetype of beauty on a journey through time, getting into an every-day, contemporary dimension. Fine fabrics such as silk cady, cashmere and mohair virgin wool are embellished with delicate Swarovski crystal applications, real feathers, evanescent handmade flowers and limited edition paintings made by the designer herself. Gretel Zanotti, 22-years old, has studied Fashion Design at the Marangoni Institute. She passed from her passion for restoration to the one for fashion and in a short time her dresses have been worn by several Italian celebs. Gretel Zanotti and her high-quality made in Italy creations are about to conquer the Milan highfashion quarter. The refined taste and the excellent tailoring of her garments give a unique touch to today's woman, making her impeccable on every occasion. www.gretelz.com
MODANISA MODEST FASHION WEEK LO N DO N
DARRELINA BY DIANN-FASHION
FARRAH NAAZ
74
75
FARRAH NAAZ
FLLUMAÉ
GULSHAAN
76
77
GULSHAAN
PILLAR
SAIQA MAJEED
78
79
SAIQA MAJEED
AMAZON FASHION WEEK TO KYO
AKIKOAOKI
82 83
84
85
AKIKOAOKI
RANI HATTA
86 87
88
89
RANI HATTA
90
91
RANI HATTA
TAE ASHIDA
92 93
94
95
TAE ASHIDA
YUKI TORII INTERNATIONAL
96 97
98
99
YUKI TORII INTERNATIONAL
100
101
YUKI TORII INTERNATIONAL
MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK R U SS IA
FIRDAWS
104 105
106
107
FIRDAWS
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SHOP & SUBSCRIBEONLINE • The most comprehensive overview of the latest designer collections (not just woman ready-to-wear collections from milan, paris, london and ny, but a detailed review of kids, • man and haute couture catwalks). • Very early publishing date. • Trends: a summary of the main trends and the most interesting moods intercepted in the seasons's international collections. • A selection of the most important fashion shows and the unmissable brands, to provide an overview of everything that is trendy in every fashion week.
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SHOP & SUBSCRIBEONLINE • The most complete collection on the market dedicated to the different product categories. • Each title divided according to the trend or the product type in order to focus on the contents in an easy and essential way (eg. heeled shoes, flat shoes, sneakers etc.). • Very early publishing date. • Best value for money. • Italian editorial staff composed of experienced editors can ensure a high level of know-how both in the presentation of the images and in the selection of fashion content with strong appeal.
• La più completa collana sul mercato dedicata alle diverse tipologie di prodotto. • Ogni titolo suddiviso in base alla tendenza o alla tipologia di prodotto per schematizzare i contenuti in modo facile ed essenziale (es. scarpe con tacco, scarpe senza tacco, sneakers ecc). • Rapidità nell'uscita. • Il miglior rapporto qualità-prezzo. • Redazione italiana composta da redattori di provata esperienza in grado di garantire un elevato know-how sia nella presentazione delle immagini, sia nella selezione di contenuti moda dal forte appeal. CURRENCY: EURO
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ADDRESSES PROFILES EKATERINA KUKHAREVA www.kukhareva.com GRETEL ZANOTTI www.gretelz.com MORFOSIS www.morfosis.it TORINO FASHION WEEK AAB www.aabcollection.com BAMBAH www.bambah.com BOUTIQUE DE NANA www.boutiquedenana.co.uk BULBULIA THREADS www.bulbuliathreads.com CHENILLE www.chenille-boutique.co.uk ELLA BRIZADLY & PRIBUMI ® www.ellabrizadly.com INSANIYAH www.insaniyah.com NATASHA KAMAL www.natashakamal.com ARAB FASHION WEEK DUBAI ANTONIO MARRAS www.antoniomarras.com INGIE PARIS www.ingieparis.com JEANS COUTURE www.jeanscoutures.com MARCHESA www.marchesa.com MRHUA MRSHUA www.weibo.com/u/1832733924 RENATO BALESTRA www.renatobalestra.it
ZOË ECKETT www.eckettcouture.com MODANISA MODEST FASHION WEEK LONDON DARRELINA BY DIANN-FASHION www.darrelina.webs.com FARRAH NAAZ www.farrahnaaz.com FLLUMAÉ www.fllumae.com GULSHAAN www.gulshaan.com PILLAR www.shoppillar.com SAIQA MAJEED www.saiqamajeed.com AMAZON FASHION WEEK TOKYO AKIKOAOKI www.akikoaoki.com RANI HATTA www.ranihatta.com TAE ASHIDA www.jun-ashida.co.jp YUKI TORII INTERNATIONAL www.yukitorii.co.jp MERCEDES BENZ FASHION WEEK RUSSIA FIRDAWS www.dm-firdaws.ru
THE LEADING TRADE PUBBLICATIONS FOR ALL FASHION PROFESSIONALS Italian know-how from an experienced editorial staff
www.fashionfocusmag.com ISBN 978-88-98101-58-0
9 788898 101580