Skinesis: The Straight-Talking Guide to Skincare
Morning MorningRoutine Routine
Cleanse Any non-foaming cleanser is fine. Milk, balm (a little), gel- as long as it doesn’t turn your face in to a foam bath- carry on. Yes, you can use the same cleanser as you do in the night time if money is an issue. Exfoliating (acid) lotion This has the effect of blowing a trumpet in your ear- your skin is forced into action. It also lowers the PH of your skin for the day, promoting cell renewal. Note: dxfoliation should be carried out everywhere.
Spray/ Hydrate This is the first start of the hydrating process. You can use any hydrating flower mist/water that you like. You can also use a traditional ‘toner’ at this stage- so long as its main function is to hydrate- preferably containing hyaluronic acid or glycerine, but rosewater is also very hydrating. Eye Cream This should be the first stage and then everything else after. Eye creams are targeted at that specific area and traditionally can be more expensive, so ensure this is the first product that you apply. Serums/Oils Serums are the vital part of this routine as they should be chosen on your skin type and any issues you are trying to balance out. If you’re suffering with dehydrated skin that your serum should be as rich with hydration as possible. Application of serums should be based upon its texture- some require patting in, others need to be massaged in. Incase of a heavily silicone serum, the facial oil should be skipped and followed by moisturiser. Moisturiser and SPF This locks in all of the goodness and sealing with moisture. Those with oily skin require this step like those with a drier skin type- ingredients should be the main focus. SPF is vital for everyday wear as it acts as an antioxidant- as a barrier for sunlight, bacteria and pollution in the air. It’s the seatbelt of protection.
Night Routine
Cleanse Cleansing should be the step of everyone’s skin routine, it removes the dead skill and any build-up of oils throughout the day time. With more time on your hands, you have a choice of cleansing methods, from quick micellar cleansers to the traditional cleanser and toner combinations. Once you have cleansed follow with a spritz of thermal water to leave skin feeling refreshed and soothed. If you are wearing an SPF throughout the day, take the extra time to remove it or it will clog the pores and lead to break outs. Mask Apply a mask to intensely cleanse or hydrate the skin. Ensure you leave it for a few minutes to absorb in, and then rinse off with warm water. Add this step on a weekly basis (or as often as you need) to give your skin an extra pick-me-up. Serum Smooth on a layer of serum to freshly-cleansed, damp skin, avoiding the eye area. Apply it with gentle but steady strokes working from the neck upwards, massaging lightly as you go. Eye Cream Using the tip of your ring finger, pat your eye cream gently along the top of the brow bone and along the eye socket underneath. Don’t go too close to the eye itself, as the product will spread as it soaks. Night Cream Finish up with a night cream that suits your skin type, to support your skin’s overnight renewal process. (For a closer look in to ingredients skip to page )
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Skin Secrets Inside Dry-Dehydrated Skin
7
Oily-Combination Skin
9
Acneic Skin
11
Acids
13-16
Vitamins
17
Skincare Myths Decoded
18
Dry-Dehydrated Skin Dry Skin Caused by the lack of oil on the skin Slight to severe flaking or peeling Harsh texture to the skin Can feel tight Absorbs water quickly Dehydrated Skin Caused by a lack of water Skin can feel tight Dry texture Absorbs moisturiser quickly
The skin is made up of 70% of water. 20-30% of that is from the epidermis (the top layer of skin). Typically, your hydrolipidic film acts as a regulator/barrier, however if this is compromised, the moisture in the epidermis evaporates too quickly.
Oily-Combination Skin Oily Skin Caused by Noticeably Noticeable Potentially
excess sebum levels enlarged pores oiliness throughout the day still dry
Oily skin can be caused by hormonal changes, genetics and diets. Typically, oily skin ages at a much slower rate than drier skin types. The main focus with oily skin should be on balancing oil levels and maintaining clean pores. If any bacteria gets in to these pores, it will increase visible break outs. Ingredients to look out for Green Tea extracts- this is mattifying and purifying on the skin Camomile (Matricarcia recutitia)- reduces redness Witch Hazel is an anti-oxidant which keeps the bacteria and pollution in the air, at bay. Salicyclic Acid is a perfect for combination skin as it rebalances sebum levels and will penetrate the skin, targetting bacteria.
Acneic Skin Causes of Acne Hormonal acne can cause an over production of oil Slow shredding of dead skin cells increases the amount of angrogen in your system- creating the perfect breeding ground for acne Inflammation caused by stress of illness Sensitivities caused by products, food or environment
Propionbacterium acne is the bacteria that provides the perfect environment for acne. Unfortunately, there is not a ‘magical cure; for acne, as it is different for everyone. You may have type one, or all Keep an eye out for: Tea tree oil is a good anti bacterial oil Retinols will enhance the look of the skin, getting rid of dull skin Glycolic acid as it removes the dead cell, promoting new cell turnover Charcoal as an ingredient as it's purifying but also soothing- perfect for sensitivities.
Explaining Acids Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) These are the most commonly used acids. They exfoliate the skin, stimulate collagen and GAGs (glycosaminoglycans) formation. They normalise the stratum corneum (the outer-most layer of the epidermis) and can regulate keratinization. Best for signs of aging. Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHAs) There is only one beta hydroxy acid – salicylic – derived from acetylsalicylic acid, or aspirin. Like AHAs, beta hydroxy acid (BHA) also acts as an exfoliant increasing the shedding of dead skin cells. BHA is extremely useful for treating breakouts and helps manage keratosis pilaris and other conditions that involve blocked or clogged pores. Glycolic Containing the smallest molecule in AHAs, glycolic is derived from sugarcane, and is effective in its ability to penetrate deeply and stimulate fibroblast cells to aid in collagen production. It exfoliates the skin by increasing cell turnover, evens skin tone and builds the support structure in the dermal matrix reducing wrinkles. It is the only acid that makes you sun sensitive.
Lactic Historically derived from milk, more recently synthetically formed to maintain stability, lactic works to dissolve the glue in between cells on the surface making it good for gently exfoliating. Keeps the skin soft, acts like Pac Man on the surface of the skin, gently eating it away.
Acids Continued Salicylic Derived from willow bark, salicylic acid is oil soluble and penetrates and breaks down the ‘glue’ that causes breakouts and oily, uneven skins. It loosens desmosomes allowing the cell to let go of the excess sebum that oily skins like to hold on to. Think of desmosomes as handcuffs, attaching your cells together. Salicylic unlocks the handcuffs. Gluconolactone Largely antioxidant PHA, gluconolactone is the multi-tasker of all acids. It is made of multiple humectant hydroxyls, which hydrate the skin. It also attacks free radicals, protecting the skin from UV damage and strengthens barrier function, allowing the skin to reduce redness with regular use. Gluconolactone inhibits elastase, the cause of skin sagging, and helps maintain elasticity. Mandelic Fat soluble and derived from almonds, this is a good choice for oilier skins, as the molecules can penetrate even the greasiest of skins. Mandelic is antibacterial and can reduce oiliness with regular usage without harshly drying the skin out. Citric Reverses signs of photo damage while also improving the quality of the dermal matrix, can sometimes only be used at preservative level just so brands can claim it on the label. Look for specific mentions of citric in the descriptions on packaging, if they’re not there,
This ‘Straight-talking’ skincare guide is the first of its time.
This book is vital for every woman out there with its problem-solving handle on skin worries. Find the answer to your burning questions, all in one placeno need to Google them. It will decode your skincare myths, from popping spots to applying bum cream to your face. With its simple but detailed skincare steps, this is a must-have for those wanting to explore the skincare world. Achieve naturally flawless skin, it’s so simple!