TA N G E N T I S S U E
O N E
M A K E T H E J O U R N E Y T H E D E S T I N AT I O N
EDITOR’S NOTE Journeys have always been a prevalent part of the human psyche throughout history, this much is evident from the wealth of stories and legends based around the idea of a journey, such as Chaucer’s ‘Canterbury Tales’ and the spectacularly influential Chinese legend: ‘The Journey to the West’. These expeditions were once a mammoth effort, taking many months to simply reach the destination, whereas now the modern traveller can take international travel for granted. While rocketing through the air for a few hours and ending up halfway across the world is certainly convenient, the experience of travelling is nowhere near as enlightening or memorable. In this issue we will guide you along historical routes that the traveller of yesteryear would trek along, our featured journeys; the Silk Road and the Panamerican Highway, while from very different eras, have both fundamentally influenced the culture of the nations they have traced through. Similar journeys through Japan and the American Railway network have also molded the history and culture of these places. In this way, the routes and journeys have their own stories to tell. Edward Glasscote
CONTENTS
AMERICAN RAILROAD //4–5//
I S TA N B U L //6–7//
A S H G A B AT //8–11//
XI’AN //12–13//
J A PA N //14–15//
AFTER THE GOLD RUSH A VOYAGE ACROSS THE AMERICAN WEST BY TRAIN
By Anna Blaushild Call it a heartbeat: thumm, thumm, thumm. The train hobbles along the tracks with the same rhythm, the same shudders and pauses. This is the old country of the American railroad, orange cliffs and sparse vegetation blending into narrow, river-run valleys. There are unpredictable bumps and jumps on the track, but after the first twenty-four hours, the train becomes part of you: the shakes and skips in the old tracks, the occasional flicker of the lights and the low hum of forward. For a country as large as the United States, there are few active railways that cross between the coasts: now there are only four. The number seems plentiful until one learns they are thou-
sands of miles apart. The California Zephyr line, now Amtrak, once part of the first transcontinental railroad, stretched from Chicago to slightly north of San Francisco, a route that takes up about three-fifths of the United States. It would take about fifty hours to ride continuously, making it the second longest train trek a traveller can take, the longest goes to the Texas Eagle line in the South, which can be up to sixty-eight hours. The Zephyr is built for longer journeys, with a large, full dining car at the front and a smaller food carriage towards the back, as well as a sizable observation deck and multiple sleeping compartments. You could live quite comfortably on the two-day journey; if you can afford it. Which, admittedly, I couldn’t: the ticket for my thirty-three hour trip was a tidy 150$ and it was only one leg of my trip. While others had beds and proper, private rooms, I settled onto the narrow, stiff seats and slept in a tight ball, my arms around my valuables.
Anna Blaushild
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Being alone is not as hard as people assume. I found loneliness in the American Midwest no different from ambivalence in New England, or depression in Europe: when you are sad, it does not matter who is with you or where you are. When you are content, the same still applies. I began one night dreading the thirty-three hours and only an hour in, I lost my phone. I had my laptop to entertain me, but no wi-fi, and all I had to eat for the next thirty hours was a bag of old graham crackers, gum and if I could afford it, an overpriced mini-pizza from the dining car. Oddly, I didn’t find myself too bothered by any of this. Time didn’t feel real after that first night on the unsteady tracks: I’d woken up to the soft hues of purple, an orange-yellow tinged sunrise over an empty, vast wilderness. I’d walked back to the observation deck and wrote a couple notes in my diary: ‘the sky is so orange’, mostly. I was trying to write poetry, but I’d never been very good at it and after a moment I fell back and just watched the desert, clicking through songs on my tiny iPod until I found one that fit the mood just right. For whatever reason, the life of a railhead is seen as something for the immature or undeveloped: it is always badly written autistic men in films who care about trains, or eccentric grandfathers. I had those role models to think about as I sat by the window and toned out the tour guide in the same car as me, talking to a group of retirees about the history of the canyon we were passing through. As I gazed out the window at the red cliffs and white water, several rafters whooped and cheered at the passing train, some taking a moment to moon us. This was a journey that had been taken a hundred thousand times already, but I had never seen it, and by that merit it was brand new.
Anna Blaushild
There is nothing quite as ethereal as waking up and going to sleep in the same liminal space. To close your eyes and open them again to a whole new world outside and a cramped one inside. Voyaging across the American west is like teleporting between planets: on the same route, there are high, misty forests and wide, glowing mountain ranges. You pass through tunnels and tall gorges, but also dilapidated houses, poor towns overlooked by barren mountains and cross a rusted train graveyard. Stops can be ten hours apart and at times, there is no civilization around the train for miles. It is only you, the passengers and the crew who have done this hundreds of times before.
//JOURNEY: AMERICAN WEST//
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I S TA N B U L
Charlotte Cooper
By Charlotte Cooper If the Earth were a single state, Istanbul would be its capital. –Napoleon Bonaparte Turkey’s historic capital is best characterised by its chaos and frantic energy. As the bridge between Europe and Asia this hustle and bustle is to be expected and to completely immerse oneslf in this atomsphere is to go wihout plans or agendas in order to embrace the chaos. Paradoxically, an aimless journey through this noisy city will allow you to find many beautiful spaces full of calm and quiet.
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Local friends or even new acquaintances are a blessing when travelling. They allow you an inside view of the country; with their knowledge you will see a side of Istanbul that would otherwise be missed. Meeting shop owners in the Grand Bazaar – sitting drinking spiced apple chai and gaining a deeper perspective on the culture and city. The colour and vibrancy of the Grand Bazaar is in such stark contrast to many markets which have become increasingly subdued and under used. The Bazaar retains its popularity, remaining a home for the habits that have died out elsewhere including haggling. The chaos and sound is what makes the market so special, rich
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in culture and diverse in nationality. The sprawling confusing market has many twists and turns, hidden doors and extra layers. In contrats to the small beginnings of the market from 1461 the Grand Bazaar now requires hours or days to fully explore. The Spice Bazzar is an explosion of colour and smell. Try what you can, take photos and fully immerse yourself in the experience. The smells and tastes will stay with you as you journey further in. The scents of spices mixed in with Turkish Delight, the bright and natural colours clashing and joining together. The market was built in 1660 and at the height of its success it was the journey’s end for the camel caravans that had travelled the Silk Road. Humans have always moved between places, travelling and trading, with an innate thirst for knowledge and more. The Silk Road allowed for trading and travel but also for the mixture of cultures, knowledge, beliefs and ideas. These routes had no particular name, but were known by many. Caravans of horses or camels were the standard way to travel, with caravanserais spaced along the roads to provide safe rest at night. These routes have left a legacy of buildings, but also of culture, as cultural interaction altered the places along the road. One of the top entries on many tourists’ list is The Blue Mosque – its construction began in 1609 ad and took seven years to complete. A building with a long past and walls steeped in history and contrast. The light and impressive exterior contrasts with the darker more oppressive interior. The tourists in contrast to the congregation praying. The blue iznik tiles give the mosque its name, although this name is unofficial it is the most commonly used. The mosque has six minarets and the biggest courtyard of all the Ottoman Mosques. The curving walls of the mosque are often described as voluptuous with
the blue tinge producing an otherworldly quality. Entering the mosque can feel intrusive, those praying are interrupted continually by tourists, it can feel gauche and rude to enter. However, you should visit to witness the scale and beauty of the building. Part of visiting Istanbul must include a trip to a hammam, one of the oldest bathing traditions in the world. Hammam means spreader of warmth an accurate name since the atmosphere is rich with warmth, relaxation and contentment. The invasion of the Roman occupied Constantinople in 1450 by the Turks created the hammam as the Turks merged their traditions with the Roman baths. The Turks used bathing as a purification ritual for prayer with many smaller baths spread around the city near to mosques. The Turkish baths also focus on running water for dousing with instead of pools which they consider to be unclean. A ritual for both body and soul, the hamam hot stone will clear your pores, the attendant will scrub you with traditional paste and finally the cold room and cold water finishes the ritual.
//JOURNEY: ISTANBUL//
Charlotte Cooper
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A S H G A B AT The Marble Facade
Via Wikimedia Commons
Ashgabat parkland, pictured on a busy day
By Edward Glasscote
Deep within the steppe of central Asia, our journey along the Silk Road visits one of the world’s most visually spectacular yet peculiar cites, Turkmenistan’s capital Ashgabat. Vast modern streets of marble and emerald green parkland stand in defiance of the dry sandy scrubland that surrounds them. This grand oasis in the the arid steppe has experienced change after change at the whims of various powerful leaders, however, as a rather young city, the majority of Ashgabat’s development has occurred in the recent past. Ashgabat’s journey to its current condition was by no means simple. After the fall of the Soviet Union various new leaders sought to establish their own cult of personality. Part of this process involved removing anything associated with previous
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power structures, and implementing new, awe inspiring constructions and facilities to show the new leader’s supposed power. That’s why today, any visitors to this city will see hundreds of clean marble buildings and structures, perfectly maintained parkland and eerily empty public spaces. This was a conscious effort to turn the city into somewhat of a showcase of the nation’s power. Despite the dubious intentions, the scale of these efforts demands awe, especially consider-
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Independance square in the centre of Ashgabat, as deserted as the steppe surrounding the city. Via Wikimedia Commons
ing that in 2013 Ashgabat won the Guinness world record for the city with the highest density of white marble buildings, which is especially impressive taking into account the relatively small size, and even smaller population of the city. This isn’t the only world record held by the city, indeed previous leaders have intentionally built structures to break obscure world records, such as ‘The World’s Largest Enclosed Ferris Wheel’. However, this supposed prosperity rarely reaches the people living in Ashgabat and Turkmenistan as a whole. The nation’s government used the money it acquired from its recently discovered oil and gas to remodel this utopia in the steppe, however this process involved the destruction of vast swathes of housing that did not fit within the aesthetic themes of the city
and the green areas came at the cost of the local microclimate. Due to these processes of reconstruction very little of the original city still remains today. Various totalitarian leaders have come and gone, leaving their own marks on the city, which often didn’t last into the rule of the next leader, meaning there have been several entirely different versions of Ashgabat throughout time. One particular leader, Saparmurat Niyazov, who was the Turkmen president between 1985 and 2006 had some particularly eccentric projects, such as comissioning a giant gold statue of himself, that would rotate so that it would always be facing the sun, a vast lake in the desert, and even an ice palace. One of his most famous acts was to rename the months of the year, to be named
//JOURNEY: ASHGABAT//
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Via: Maxpixel.net
after his family members and national heroes. During this period, the Turkmen word for April was replaced with ‘Gurbansoltan’, named after Niyazov’s mother. After Niyazov’s death in 2006, the new president of Turkmenistan, Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, has shown a similar desire to live the dictator lifestyle, making sure to erase traces of the Niyazov regime with iconography of his own, in order to establish his cult of personality. Berdimuhamedow built his new palace on the site of the former central avenue of the city, then named after Niyazov, creating a private boulevard
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in the center of the city. This earnest facade, intended to impress the world at large, seems more eerie and alien than strong and reassuring, this is because of the lack of people; tourists and locals alike. Potential tourists may be disappointed to find their visa requests rejected, Turkmenistan is not an especially welcoming or trusting nation, and although it isn’t as isolationist as some other nations, the hopeful visitor has to jump through many hoops and multiple attempts before being able to visit. Not many of Turkmenistan’s people
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Ashgabat Wedding Palace, this peculiar building operates as a place to register marriage, as well as host the ceremonies
can afford to live in Ashgabat; despite the nations newfound wealth there is little to no trickle-down. Those that can often have to go without neccesities such as running water or electicity for days at a time, while the fountains and lights of the parks and public spaces run unhindered, despite their barren nature. This means that the average native is forced to live in one of the smaller provincial towns and cities, in places that aren’t, metaphorically and literally, being polished, for nobody in particular. These towns and cities are where the culture of Turkmenistan is on full display, the second largest city, Turkmena-
bat, has its fair share of white marble buildings; however the city has numerous bustling streets and markets, a far cry from Ashgabat. Ashgabat is certainly an un-missable spot on the Silk Road, the sights and silence of this wealthy capital make it unlike anywhere else in the world, however, like most things, the city is more than meets the eye.
//JOURNEY: ASHGABAT//
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XI’AN
The City
Of Dreams
Via THEWORLDOFTRAVEL
By Chloe Higgins A guide to the most relaxing journey through China Xi’an, a city in the Shaanxi Province of China and on the eastern end of the Silk Road, provides any traveller with the perfect insight into China’s cultural and historical significance. Rising from a third world manufacturing country, to one of the world’s leading economic superpowers, China has a lot to offer any traveller. Xi’an is a city that offers historical landmarks, incredible traditional cuisine, and unique shopping experiences. Getting to Xi’an is an experience any keen traveller won’t be eager to forget. With the option to fly being appealing to most, travel guides highly recommend taking either the bullet train that takes four hours, or to experience true Chinese culture and take an overnight sleeper train. With cabins supporting two to six people, the sleeper train is an experience no traveller will want to miss. When exploring China, it is recommended to travel from Beijing to Xi’an to Shanghai, to fully experience the culture, the lifestyle, and
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the history of this fascinating country. When travelling from Beijing to Xi’an, the sleeper train is the best way to travel. Book your tickets in advance, they will be printed with your passport number and last name, as well as departure times and carriage numbers. It would be advised to get there early to ensure you can find your way around the station and are on time for your train. Also, note when you are booking your ticket that the option for first, second or third class, simply refers to how many people will sleep in your cabin. First class offers a two-bed compartment, with second offering four beds and third offering six. It also might be best to pay for the extra beds if you opt for second class as this will offer you more privacy within your compartment and will also allow for extra space for storing luggage. Luggage storage is offered in each bunk, but with space for only one cabin sized bag, the extra space will be welcomed by any traveller who refuses to pack light. Clean bedding and slippers are also provided in each cabin, providing
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hotel-style luxury for travellers wanted to rest a weary head and aching feet after long days of sightseeing. Each compartment is lockable from the inside and each bunk has a rack to keep valuables close to hand. The rooms have only one plug socket, but what better way to watch the scenery go by, than with a flat battery and good friends to keep you company. However, if you’re a tech savvy traveller, and want to take Instagram-worthy pictures, plug sockets are available on the corridor of each carriage to keep those batteries charged and the likes pouring in. Each carriage has a wash area and a separate toilet but no shower facilities, so if you were hoping to ease those aching muscles under a hot shower, you’ll have to wait until you arrive in Xi’an. One thing that is an absolute must on a sleeper train, is waking up early. While sleep may be hard to come by with the vibrations of the train and the bright lights of each passing station, an early rise will allow you to see the sunrise over the breath-taking views of Xi’an’s countryside. Get those cameras out now! Having a full day to explore one of China’s oldest cities will benefit any traveller who hates missing those daylight hours, and valuable time to fully experience Xi’an by day.
Mark Fischer/Flickr
Unmissable sights in the eternal city of Xi’an:
The Terracotta Army – The main attraction of the city is the collection of sculptures, portraying the armies of the first emperor of China. The site was discovered in 1974 by farmers who were digging a well near the royal tomb. It is now a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site, and a must-see for any keen traveller. Xi’an’s Ancient City Walls – The fortified city walls date back to the 14th Century and were built by the Ming Dynasty to protect the city from invaders. The walls span nearly nine miles, are surrounded by a deep moat, and have four main gates. Although you can walk the length of the wall, it is highly recommended by locals and travellers alike to hire a bicycle to explore the walls. This relaxing bike ride also provides unbelievable views of Xi’an. The Big Wild Goose Pagoda – Another World Heritage Site, the Buddhist landmark was built to hold texts and religious items brought back from India. Here you will find traditional Chinese architecture and the perfect Instagram opportunities. Other sights to see include: The Small Wild Goose Pagoda, the Great Mosque, the Muslim Quarter, the Bell and Drum Towers, Mount Huashan, the Shaanxi History Museum and the Yangling Mausoleum of Han Dynasty.
Billy Hustace/The Image Bank/Getty Images
//JOURNEY: XI’AN//
via https://www.onthegotours.com/ China/Best-Places-To-Visit/Xian
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J A PA N / 日 本 By Miriam Irwin
Gokaidō is the collective name of the five important historical routes on Japan’s main island of Honshu. The most important of the Gokaidō was the Tōkaidō between Kyoto and Tokyo. Today it can be followed to pass through some of Japan’s most beautiful scenery as well as its impressive cities. While Tokyo exudes the brilliance of modern day technology and life, the city of Kyoto is still thoroughly imbued with some of the most recognisable aspects of traditional Japanese culture. Unlike many large cities throughout the world Kyoto maintains an aura of peacefulness. The – sakura – or cherry blossom trees give every street a flush of colour and the many shrines littered throughout the city provide quiet areas of respite and beauty. One of Kyoto’s best known attractions is the Gion district where lucky tourists may get a glimpse of the Geiko or Geisha with their white faces, red lips and intricate kimonos. Nijō Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, stands as a reminder of Japan’s feudal history. Built in 1601 its ‘nightingale floor’ chirps as you walk past rooms once used by the Shōgun. Other UNESCO sites not far from Nijō Castle are Kiyomizu-Dera and Kinkaku-ji. Kiyomzu-dera gets its name from the nearby waterfall. Supposedly drinking the water that runs off the nearby hills will make you smarter. The
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Via Tianshu Liu on Unsplash
building is impressive, built twelve metres high on wooden scaffolding, without a single nail in the entire structure. This temple provides a breath-taking view of the city below. Kinkaku-ji Temple, the Golden Pavilion, is equally as impressive. The temple itself is built of wood, but covered in gold leaf to achieve the awe-inspiring exterior. The Buddhist temple appears to float on the lake and feels tranquil in the midst of the water and gardens, even with high number of tourists. Travelling by train in Japan is one of the easiest ways to move around. They are always clean, quiet and on time, especially the world-famous
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bullet train or shinkansen which can travel up to 200 mph, but remain extremely comfortable. The city of Nara is only a train ride away from Kyoto and well worth a visit. Tōdai-ji Temple is the second biggest wooden structure in the world and houses the biggest bronze Buddha in the world. Deer, in the Shinto religion, are considered to be messangers of the gods and are allowed to roam freely inside and outside the temple grounds. They will sometimes bow to you expecting food in return. Finally, the Tōkaidō ends in Tokyo. The sprawling metropolis is full of well-known destinations which can be easily reached by the subway. One of the most recognisable symbols of Toyko is Tokyo Tower. The red and white communications tower also has an observation floor which provides a 360 view of the city. Another way to see the city is the even taller tower the Skytree which stands at almost twice the height of Tokyo Tower.
“In Tokyo, the modern and the ancient sit comfortably side by side.” Yet another place many people will be familiar with is the crossing in Shibuya possibly the busiest crossing in the entire world. The buildings glow neon with advertisements as the constant sea of people make their way through the streets. One of the nearby buildings has a Starbucks with a large window offering the perfect view of the ever-busy crossing The Asakusa Temple or Sensō-ji built in 645 AD is the oldest temple in Tokyo. However, it is still among the top ten most visited temples in the new year, an important tradition in Japan. Among the bustling, modern streets are also centuries-old temples. In Tokyo, the modern and the ancient sit comfortably side by side. Via Wikimedia Commons
//JOURNEY: JAPAN//
SOMETIMES IT’S THE JOURNEY THAT TEACHES YOU A LOT ABOUT YOUR DESTINATION. – DRAKE
–DRAKE