Travelog March Edition by Standard Group PLC

Travel #JIONEE KENYA

NOT FOR SALE

MARCH 2020

HUNT FOR A LIVING

LEGEND

The Standard

EDITOR’S WORD

CULINARY ESCAPE Pg 21

It doesn‘t hurt to dress the part

A ULTIMATE ESCAPE Pg 8-9

THE CONNOISSEUR Pg 31

HIDDEN GEMS Pg 30 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Ochieng Rapuro GROUP EXECUTIVE EDITOR AND HEAD OF NEWS: Kipkoech Tanui I MANAGING EDITOR: Denis Galava I EDITOR: Thorn Mulli SUB EDITOR: Sandra Mulluka EDITOR, PARTNERSHIPS AND PROJECTS: Andrew Kipkemboi MANAGER, PRINT CREATIVE: Dan Weloba CREATIVE DESIGNERS: Alice Ariri, Benson Wanjau, Fred Asanyo, Virginia Borura, Tracy Bett CONTRIBUTORS: Jayne Rose Gacheri, Josaya Wasonga, Jimmy Mwangi, Lubnar Abdulhalim, Ivy

Waridi, Tamara Britten, Travel Buff PHOTOGRAPHY: David Gichuru, Karubiu

Registered at the GPO as a newspaper. The Standard is printed and published by the proprietors THE STANDARD GROUP PLC Email: travelog@standardmedia.co.ke Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogKe Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

few years back, I visited a conservancy and other than the impressive wildlife they host I was drawn to their code of conduct. One rule ‘Only 4×4 vehicles which are shades of green or brown in colour are permitted’ stood out. The concept behind this rule is that you’ll have the best chance to spot wildlife if you blend in as much as possible with your surroundings because bright colours will make you conspicuous to animals. I was pleased to learn that Masai Mara Reserve is also in the process of implementing the same rule. Apart from improving visitor experience, the new guidelines will inadvertently reduce the many safari vans that circle and hound animals. This is not a rant about the colour of safari vehicles, but more about how Kenyans love to flout codes of conduct. It has almost become acceptable to ignore specified dress codes in events. It is not uncommon for patrons to show up in open footwear and shorts in spaces that have clear dress codes. I am particularly shocked by guests who completely dishonour their hosts with their inconsiderate dressing. My friend, dress codes are not a suggestion – they are a requirement. You should never take liberties and dress like Steve Jobs or Mark Zuckerberg until you accomplish the credibility they have! Moreover, celebrities don’t always get away with it.

You might remember how footballer Messi’s choice of wear came of as disrespectful when he paid the president of Gabon a courtesy call recently. Dress codes are not meant to alienate or make life difficult; quite the contrary. The expectations of what to wear are set so that you know that you will fit in. The knock-on effect is that it reduces a feeling of awkwardness. While at it, remember that sometimes dressing too well can make you stand out just as much as dressing badly. If you’re too dressed up, you might be mistaken as being too pretentious. Your host may think you just passed by and is headed to a more important function. That said, I feel the need to reiterate that black tie affairs are formal evening events. A tuxedo with a black bowtie and cummerbund are appropriate for a stylish cocktail for the man while a dress or long evening gown works for her. Anything else you are trying is a fail. That said, the Kenya Open is in a few days and I hope you’ll take a minute to find out what is appropriate wear on a golf course. And before I forget, the correct response to the greeting “How do you do?” is the echo back “How do you do?” not “Fine, thank you,”.

Thorn Mulli

The Standard

FEBRUARY WINNERS OF A PAIR OF IMAX MOVIE TICKETS

Alex Muriuki

Ayan Hassan

Yvonne Ndambuki

Caleb Mwaura

Carol Martin

Carole Kithinji

Damaris Kanyi

Daniel Karanja

Freddie Okalo

George Ochilo

Gloria Nyakundi

Humphery Okeno

Lyn Denice

Jeff Kamau

John Muniu

John Mutua

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Patrick Wainaina

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Niresiah Jacintah

Nyamwange Kenyatta

Mafrick Munene

Peter Kibet

Peter Nderitu

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Yvonne Ndambuki

Victoria Chebet

Walter Lisutsa

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Yvonne Mutinda

The Standard

TAKE THE TRIP Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Riding for

the sisterhood Meet the all-female troupe of bikers who work hard, play harder and ride even harder – just for fun! By Jayne Rose Gacheri travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

heir biking attire – black leather boots, guards, jackets and helmets – are not only their protection, but is also their trademark. Sometimes one or two will ride solo, but more often they operate in a “gang” of sisterhood to drive the message – women too, are professional motorbike riders! This sisterhood cuts across pros – career women in almost all Eunice fields. Meet Kinyanjui, the profesAbby Ndanyu sional and Wamuyu Kariuki with women the relay riders of baton they Kenya, who picked up in also repSongwe resent the country

in global motorcycling events such as the World Riders Women Relay (WRWR). Last month, Wamuyu Kariuki, WRWR’s global ambassador to Kenya and Tanzania, Eunice Kinyanjui and Abbie Ndanyi undertook a gruelling ride to Songwe border of Tanzania and Malawi to collect the relay baton

and bring it to Nairobi. The ride took ten days and covered a distance of 3, 150 kilometres. Travelog team travelled with the group that caused a stir at stopover points, almost bringing business at the Namanga border to a standstill. It was challenging keeping up with their speed and manoeuvres. At some point, we gave up the chase and decided to stop and enjoy the scenic drive to Namanga at our pace. We eventually caught up with the “gang” at Namanga. The girls drive wild, but put road safety top on the list – and they have one thing in common: they love to ride, to feel, to touch, to laugh, to soar, to overcome, to belong, to love and be loved back. Most of all to communicate

Aisha Mohammed

The Standard

TAKE THE TRIP BMW FS800GS. I started riding in 2015. Riding has given me a sense of peace and tranquillity. I enjoy the adventure of riding. My least favourite part is when it rains especially if it catches you unawares. However, as bikers we have a saying that goes, rain or shine, we ride. As the Chairlady of Women Bikers’ Association in Kenya, I believe we need to change the narrative that women cannot make professional riders.

without a word – they ride to live! “The rule of thumb is never ride faster than your angel can fly, and sure enough, our angels have never disappointed us,” Abbie Ndanyi, one of the bikers. Njeri Mbogo – HR Consultant, mother of two I am part of the coordinators of Inked Sisterhood, currently the largest all-female biker group in Kenya. I have travelled to Namanga, Nyeri, Kisumu and Samburu. My most [Photos/Wilberforce memorable adventure was riding to Okwiri] Tanzania with a group of friends. We entered Tanzania through the Lunga Lunga border, rode through Moshi and Arusha and exited through the Namanga border. We covered over 1, 500 kilometres in three days. It was a challenging ride that stretched my limits yet enjoyable with magnificent views and great company. I hope to ride through five East African countries in 2020.

Wamuyu Kariuki

Amanya Kuchio, 33 – social worker and entrepreneur, mother of one I started riding my Apache RTR 160 in September 2018. My mother encouraged me to buy a bike and after one of my friends bought one. As soon was I done with my training, I hit the road! My joy is looking back at all the places I have ridden to – Naivasha, Nakuru, Oloitoktok, Machakos, Narok, Namanga, and Nanyuki. One of the things I count as my highest achievement was the ride to Arusha to represent Kenya as a guardian of the baton for the Women Riders World Relay between January

19 and 28, this year. It was an honour riding with seasoned rider, Wamuyu Kariuki, the WRWR’s ambassador to Kenya and Tanzania. I love mentoring and so far, I have mentored five riders. I aspire to continue mentoring riders and coordinate community service initiatives together with the riding groups. I am affiliated with Diaspora 125/6 Outriders, Inked Sisterhood (ISH), and Piki Dada. Abbie Ndanyi, single I am a registered rider and a member of Inked Sisterhood and the Women Bikers Association. In February, I marked four years of riding. Currently, I ride a SYM NH T200. Riding is a passion that has helped me revive my interest in travelling. I have had the chance to ride to places in Kenya that I did not know existed. Through WBA, I have been able to support several charities. I hope to follow in the footsteps of my role model Wamuyu Kariuki who has made it her mission to ride all over the world. Currently, I make at least six long-distance trips a year, but I plan to ride throughout Kenya in three years. My dream is, however, to ride from South Africa to Egypt. Ashfa Virdee – HR Administrator, 39; mother of two I have always wanted to ride a motorcycle because they intrigue me. I have been riding one for two years. My greatest achievement was getting over my fears to go on the recent the trip to Namanga, where I accompanied three women riders on to collect the World Riders Women Relay baton. I rode at speeds that previously terrified me. The adventure boosted my confidence. My longest ride so far has been from Nairobi to Arusha. My bond with the sisters in our groups has been an interesting experience. Some of them we have never met, but share a common love for motorcycling. We share our achievements, laughter, fears, doubts, and goals. Alexandra Chege, 35 I am chairlady of the Women’s Bikers Association and also a member of Inked Sisterhood and Piki Dada groups. I ride a KTM Duke 390 and

Caroline Mimi – customer service representative, mother of one Whereas I used to spend about 6 ours on the road in traffic, riding has given me the freedom as a parent to have quality time with my family. One year down the line I do not feel caged any more. The first reaction from my colleagues the first time I rode to work was: Carol, you have decided to become an organ donor? Sadly, that is how many people view riders. Riding has made me disciplined and I have learned basic mechanics such as changing oil, overhauling the motorcycle and put it back again.

Learning to ride tips for her Find the right fit – Test what bike is suitable for you by sitting on a number of them to find the one that feels right. Take lessons – Train from a professional and certified person or institute. Protect the head and everything else. A helmet is necessary always as it reduces the risk of death by 39 per cent, according to published research. Other gear should include ankle boots, gloves leathers and heavy-duty jeans Join a club – Find a registered female riders’ group. Here, you will find women who share the passion that drives your riding experience. There are more than 23 registered female riders’ groups in the country Practice makes perfect. Have a personal routine. An early morning ride is recommended as it allows you to go through the cooler part of the day with all your gear on Know your basics – it would not be an adventure if something did not go wrong. Be prepared by carrying spare parts and a manual even when riding in a foreign country Establish your own personal limits. It is all about personal limits. Some women can ride for hours while others cannot. Either case, take a break when you need it. Keep in tune with weather. Being too hot or too cold can significantly affect concentration, energy levels, skill and rider safety. As a novice rider, you need to master the skill of keeping cold and hydrated in hot weather and warm in cold weather

The Standard

ith Muslims, everything works in a very organised, systematic way. There is a manual for everything; how to do it, when to do it, where to do it. Very detailed and straight forward. Now the struggle comes when you are out and about and applying your way of

TRAVEL TALK

life sometimes seems like an impossible task. There are common struggles every Muslim explorer (even just hanging out in your own locality) will relate to, whether they are from across the globe from us or just your next door neighbour. Here are a few:

The misadventures of an out and about

muslim By Lubnah Abdulhalim

Pray in your room. But because you can only afford a cheap hotel, the only space you have to pray is on top of your bed. Yes. There is not even enough space to place your small prayer mat on the floor. So you climb on your bed and now start thinking of which is the ‘qiblah’ (the direction Muslims face during prayers). You have no internet bundles to check a compass so you run about the place asking for any Muslim who can show you the qiblah or ask anyone who knows where North is (because North is the direction we face). You remind yourself to download the ‘MuslimPro’ app during your next adventure. Or perhaps should we call them misadventures?

travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

The empty-bottle carriers: One of the biggest struggles Muslims face while traveling, is having to walk around with an empty bottle because there is no water in the toilets. Thus, one of the essentials during packing is that empty bottle that you’ll use to fill in water at the toilet sinks, sometimes back and forth, to use for clean-up after the call of nature. It is quite amusing though. Don’t these hotels (and sometimes airports) know that Muslims are quite a majority as well? How then have they never thought of making it a better experience for Muslims?

A little yoga: It is time for prayers so you go take ablution. In your mind though, you know too, it’s time for a little yoga. There is no proper area to take ablution except the sink and thus when it is time to clean your feet, you have to raise them up into the sink to wash them. This is in between staring at the door hoping that no worker will walk in and see you in what seems to be quite an uncivilised manner, at the same time hoping you do not hurt your hip while your leg being that high up. The struggle is real.

Prayer room you ask? What’s that? : Ironically, even in Mombasa where we have majority Muslims, many hotels never think of providing this. Now Muslims mostly have to arrange their picnic times post prayers or in between prayer times because ‘we won’t get a private room or a clean place to pray.’ The only other options are: Either we go for the picnic and not pray the entire day or not go for the picnic altogether. Such a shame!

FYI:

Empty bottles because airports don’t allow passengers to have full water bottles. Otherwise, we travel with our small filled up bottles quite often. Muslim Pro is an app that alerts the Muslim on prayer time, shows them the qiblah amongst other things. Halaal means permissible according to Islamic law. Some meat is forbidden such as pork or birds of prey with claws. There is also laws on how the slaughtering should be done and what kind of animals to avoid entirely.

You crave meat. But can you afford the craving? You are at a restaurant you have never eaten in and innocently inquire, “Is this meat halaal?” The first waiter doesn’t know so they call another waiter. “Is this meat halaal?” You ask again, but no one seems to be sure. Or perhaps they don’t really understand what halaal is and why you want halaal meat so badly. After several attempts of trying to find out, you decide to order another meal altogether. So much for your craving.

The Standard

GUEST HOUSE

My love for Kenya

I have climbed a few mountains in Kenya like the Longonot, Ngong Hills, Menengai Crater, the Elephant Hill. I try as much as I can to enjoy the beautiful tracks and scenery in Kenya during the weekends. It gives me another chance to meet and interact with the people. I am getting ready for another big milestone, which is climbing Mt Kenya. I also hope to experience the beautiful nature parks like Tsavo, Amboseli, Samburu, as well as the beach. This is also connected to my objectives which are to see many more Isrealis come t o Kenya and sample the beauty in this country.

Is-rael Ambassador vows to raise profile of new engagements of the two nations By Travel Buff travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

he relations between Israel and Kenya began way before Kenya attained her independence in 1963. An interesting historical anecdotes is told of how Israeli officials forged very close ties with Kenya’s founding president Mzee Jomo Kenyatta, to the chagrin of the British colonialists. It is said that the Israeli officials were warned about their cosiness with the first president and told that they risked being expelled from Kenya if they continued. However, the Israelis were not deterred. I always like to tell this story because I feel like this friendship is so strong that we stick to each other despite the circumstances. This friendship was so strong that three days before the country’s independence, on December 9, 1963, we were privileged to have the late president Kenyatta lay the foundation of our embassy in the presence of our then Foreign Affairs minister Golden Meir – who later became the first and only female Prime Minister of Israel. Israel will always remember the assistance Kenya gave during the Entebbe raid that saved the lives of our people. Kenya gave us

the help we needed, which was again a sign of strong bond we have. First impression in Kenya On arrival in Kenya in October 2019, I felt the warm welcome of the people here-both from the citizens and the Government. Having served in different embassies in three different continents, I was particularly proud of the fact that Kenya is the first country where I have served in an ambassadorial position. The warmth be-

tween Kenya and Israel is specifically founded on the fact that both nations have profound respect for the Bible, for religion, as well as the history of Israel and the holy sites. My personal objective as an ambassador is to ensure that the relations go a step further to other fields like more business engagements and development projects that mutually benefit the people of both our nations. Places I’ve visited in Kenya I went on safari to the Masai Mara with my family where we got to see the wide array of wildlife there. As a family, we have had many experiences and vacations but there are some that will always stand out – the Masaai Mara is one of those. I aman ardent hiker and have

Kenyans travelling to Israel? I think the numbers are about 10 ,000 a year but I feel this can increase. Anyone that I meet here in Kenya knows a lot about the Bible, the history of Israel and the sacred places too. It’s a destination which you can acquaint yourself with by just opening your Bible. Israel is a very small country and you drive from the northern to southern part in just 5-6 hours! Despite being small, Israel is endowed with varied sceneries: from the greener hilly sides of the north, to the deserts in the south and of course the beautiful sea shores to the west not forgetting a must tour of Jerusalem. In addition, there is the vibrant capital commonly known as “Tel Aviv Nonstop city.” Toughest bit about being an ambassador I think one of the biggest concern for me is the widespread insecurity targeting Israeli citizens. Parting shot I am in discussions with the relevant authorities to find ways of having a direct flights from Israel to Kenya. I look enviously at surrounding countries like Rwanda, Ethiopia, South Africa, and Seychelles which have direct flights to Israel and I ask myself why don’t we have such here? I believe that is not just a vehicle that links one country to another but it will enhance our engagements in all fields like agriculture, politics, education, business.

The Standard

I WENT THERE

I couldn’t ‘passover’ this chance to visit

The Holy Land

Israel flag with a view of old city Jerusalem and the Kotel- Western wall

A trip to Israel is a bucket list experience for any religious or history enthusiast By Travel Buff travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

ravelling to Israel had been on my bucket list for a long time. I had really wanted to tour this historic land and walk in the footsteps of the the Bible greats from Nazareth to Jerusalem and to the Dead Sea. I decided to finally make this trip to despite the notion that the country, just like Kenya, is not safe. Before I set off on my trip, I conducted a little bit of my own research into this holy land. I discovered that the state of Israel came into being in the year 1948 after a war with Palestinians over the land that is presently Israel. As it would trurn out, the seven days I spent in the Holy Land were

some of the most memorable experiences I have ever had. My tour began in Jerusalem, the meeting point of different faiths and ethnicities and its quite interesting to see how these communities live in harmony with each other. One of the most famous sites here is the Western Wall, or the Wailing Wall (kotel) which in Islam is regarded as the buraq wall. The Western Wall is regarded holy because of its link to the Temple Mount. Entry is restricted because the holiest site for the Jews lies behind the wall. This wall was constructed by King Herod in 20 BC during an expansion of the Second Temple. The support wall survived in 70 BC when the Romans destroyed the temple. Many years later, those who visit the place prayed in the small area of the wall that is visible. As a sign of respect to God, those visiting the Wall are required to cover their heads. While Jewish men

Two young women enjoying the Dead Sea. The unusual buoyancy caused by high salinity.

cover their heads with a kippa, the non-Jews cover their heads with special hats that can be bought at designated spots nearby. Touring Tel Aviv I took a trip to Tel Aviv, one of the most vibrant cities in the Middle East and was impressed by how organised and clean it was in comparison to our African cities. The city is very secure and not crowded. Though it’s a bit expensive, it is

worth it. Tel Aviv is known for its booming food scene, magnificent architecture, as well as vibrant night life. Being the capital most government offices are located here. During my visit, the country was experiencing shorter days so by 4pm it was dark. To make the most of the limited daylight, I had to adjust my schedule in order to cover as much as I could during my tour.

The Standard Macharia Gachuru prays at the wailing wall

I WENT THERE Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: TravelogKe Website: www.ravelog.ke

A soldier and Orthodox Jew pray at the wailing wall in Jerusalem

Prayers written on paper and stuffed into cracks in the Western Wall

The transport system efficient a far cry from Nairobi. Most Israelis have embraced motorcycles and bikes for transport to the city hence reducing traffic. People cycle to town and park the bicycles at designated spots.

Museums Tel Aviv has various museums depicting the rich history of the Jews. One of the museums I

managed to visit was the Museum of the Jewish People at Beit Hatfutsot. It is a global institution open to people of all faiths that narrates the ongoing story of the Jews. It has various access points and offers a children’s gallery, permanent exhibition as well as rotating schedule of temporary exhibitions. The museum also comprises of a database house of searchable archives of music, films, photos, genealogy (family trees) and in addition family names that are linked to the Jews or their history. A section called trailblazers of the Jewish people is interactive and is designed for children of ages 6-12 years. The Dead Sea Another memorable tour was to the Dead Sea – a distance of

close to 100 kilometres from Tel Aviv. The salt lake which borders Jordan to the east and Israel and West Bank to the west is believed to be the lowest point from the sea level. The sea is called “dead” because of the high salinity concentration that is not condusive to aquatic organisms, including plants as well as fish. Interestingly, during floods, the salt content of the Dead Sea can fall from its usual 35 per cent. You can’t have gone Israel and failed to indulge in a free mud bath by the Dead Sea. It is believed that the minerals in the sea have therapeutic properties that combat aging as well as skin ailments. It felt like I was floating. As I slowly moved towards the deeper parts of the sea, the water gets heavier. A note for anyone who tries

this experience-remember to keep your cose your mouth. Salty water is unpleasant in taste. Golan Heights Some 164 km from the Dead Sea is the Golan Heights. The area controls a substantial portion of the water in the Jordan River watershed, where Israel receives its water supply. Golan Heights is very rocky and its so high that you can see from a distant how beautiful the land is. It is also one of the most guarded places. An army officer agreed to talk to me about the rocky plateau. Israel seized the Golan Heights from Syria in the late 60/early 70s. One cannot miss to tour the Sea of Galilee, a fresh water lake where Christian pilgrims where Jesus performed miracles like feeding a multitude of thousands.

SPECIAL FEATURE

Roots and culture of

Ethiopia This melting pot of religions draws pilgrims from around the world By Tamara Britten travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

thiopia has one of the longest traditions of Christianity in the world. Long before European countries had even heard of Jesus Christ, this African nation was following his word. It’s, therefore, no surprise that Christians flock to the country to pay homage to this ancient land and participate in the vibrant festivals. However, what is shocking is Muslims and Jews also come to Ethiopia to celebrate their religions. That these religions all recognise the spiritual significance of Ethiopia is perhaps what makes the country unique. According to early Ethiopian history, the Queen of Sheba visited King Solomon in Jerusalem. The Queen of Sheba, or Saba, was the ruler of what was then Abyssinia. Having heard of a religious leader across the seas, she gathered her entourage and set off for Jerusalem. Dynasty of emperors King Solomon welcomed her to his palace and treated her to royalty. What happened next is open to debate. Chronicles relate that the king said to the visiting queen: Take not what is not given to you, and I shall take nothing that’s not given to me. He then fed her with food laden with salt and spices and offered no water to wash it down. When the queen had gone to bed, he instructed one of his servants to place a glass of water at her bedside. The queen, waking with an intense thirst,

drank the water. The king, on being told of this, came to her chamber with the words: You took something that was not given to you, and I shall take what is not given to me. Whether the queen gave of herself freely or not, on her return to Ethiopia she was carrying King Solomon’s child. It was this child, Emperor Menelek, who was the founder of the dynasty of emperors, the Solomonic line and the Lion of Judah. According to legend, the young Menelek, at about the age of 11, returned to Jerusalem with his mother to meet his father. At the end of this visit, Menelek seized the Ark of the Covenant and fled. At first King Solomon followed in anger, intending to reclaim the Ark, but the word of God came to him, instructing him to leave the Ark with Menelek, so he returned to Jerusalem without it. Although the Ark of the Covenant was hidden in different places during the Italian invasion in the 20th century; it now remains at St Mary of Axum, deep inside the church in the holy of holies, seen only by the keeper of the Ark. All churches in Ethiopia have a replica Ark of the Covenant, which is brought out during festivals and carried in processions around towns and villages. Ethiopian Jews’ exile to Israel In the 4th century, most Ethiopians converted to Christianity, but some remained Jewish and continued to practice the old Solomonic traditions. During the time of the Derg, when Ethiopia was ruled by communists, the government, known for severe and harsh policies, was particularly cruel to the Jewish community. Over 39, 000 Ethiopian Jews fled to Israel shortly after the country was formed and the Israeli Government gave them citizenship. To this day, there’s a considerable community of Ethiopian Jews in Israel, and like many Jews around the world, they see Ethiopia as their spiritual home. While Ethiopian Christians also consider themselves descendants of

King Solo mon and the Queen of Sheba, and continue to have a strong bond with Jews, their history differed from that of the Jews in the 4th century. Ethiopian merchants known as janderabaw, who had travelled the world trading with other nations, brought the word of Christ home. King Ezana of the Axumite Kingdom heard rumours about them and sent for them. It was then that King Ezana oversaw the building of the first church, known as Maryam or Zion, in Axum. He sent out a priest named Freminatos, originally his slave, to travel lands far and wide to preach the Christian faith. Shortly afterwards, the nine saints reached the country from Syria and led the people in carving churches on top of cliffs in the harsh yet stunning Tigrey region. Many still feared at-

tacks from those who had n o t converted. Hundreds of churches were cut out in such inaccessible and remote locations, that many are yet to be explored. Most notable are Wukro Kirkos, Tigrey’s earliest church, Abuna Gebre Mikael, set on the base of a cliff, and Debre Maryam Korkor, with its unexpected pillars and arches. One of the most extraordinary sites for a church is that of Abuna Yemata, built by a saint with the same name. The church is a two-hour climb up the cliff, with a treacherous section

SPECIAL FEATURE of clambering up a sheer rock-face using handholds and footholds in the rock. It is often said that no one has ever fallen while going up the cliff as the nine saints – nine stone pinnacles surrounding the church – are watching over the climbers. From around the 10th century, Arabs took control of Jerusalem and tensions grew between the Arab States and Ethiop i a . Wo rd w e n t round

that Ethiopians travelling to worship in Jerusalem were being killed. King Lalibela, saddened that Ethiopians were no longer able to visit, decided to build a second Jerusalem on the escarpment now named after him. The 11 churches that make up Lalibela, Ethiopia’s New Jerusalem, are hewn from rock and linked by a maze of tunnels and passageways. Bete Giyorgis, or St George, perhaps the most striking of the churches and the one at which many pilgrims still worship in, is carved as a symmetrical cross that rises from a sunken courtyard. Arrival of Muslims Muslims started arriving in the 7th

century. At that time, the well-loved King Al Nejash was ruler. News of the his democratic beliefs his fairness reached the ears of he Prophet Mohamed, who advised his followers to go to Abyssinia and spread Islam. The first Muslims who settled in Ethiopia named their village Al Nejash after the king who welcomed them into the country. In the 10th century, 43 holy men made the journey from Arabia. Sheik Aba Dir, despite being the youngest, was recognised as their leader because of the miracles he had performed and his deep spirituality. They settled at the recently founded city of Harar, now recognised by Muslims as the fourth holiest city in the world after Mecca. Medina and Jerusalem. From Harar, the faith spread to the Horn of Africa, with scholars from Djibouti, Somalia and further afield came to teach Islamic education. In the 1560s, Amir Nur, with the help of the Ye m e n i s , built a wall around Harar. He is

r e vered for preserving the religion and culture of Harar. The wall has five gates representing the five pillars of Islam and the five prayers of the day, with 6,666 verses of the Koran inscribed on the wall. While the city has now expanded far beyond its walls, the walled city known as Jugoll – jug meaning stop, and goll meaning enter – is still at its centre. Jugoll has a greater concentration of mosques than any city in the world. The traditional houses inside the walls remain as they have been for centuries, with thick walls formed of volcanic stones adorned with bright trays and baskets and cups and vases. Their main door faces either east or west to allow the sun’s rays in the morning and evening. The three main rooms are living room, bedroom and a storage room. The two main niches are for storing manuscripts while the beams over the door are for carpets – the best carpet is

SITES OF SIGNIFICANCE

Jews: Woleka, just outside Gondar, where the Jewish community still lives. Christians: Axum, where the first church was built and the Ark of the Covenant is only brought believed to be; Gheralta where there are hundreds down for the of churches carved in the tops of cliffs; and Lake wedding of Tana, where all the islands have beautiful monasterthe daughter ies painted with vivid Bible stories. of the houseMuslims: Al Negesh, near Wukro, home of the hold, and she first Muslim community; and the attractive takes that ancient walled city of Harar, considered to be the carpet with fourth most holy city in the world by many her into her Muslims. new home. Lalibela, the New Jerusalem, is sigJews, Chrisnificant to Jews, Christians and tians and Muslims Muslims. visit this country, all exploring the history of their religion and worshipping at the ancient sites. Unique in Africa – perhaps in the world – Ethiopia is revered by Jews, Christians and Muslims alike, all of whom believe the country has significant meaning in the history of their faith.

WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS

By Thorn Mulli travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

On the hunt for a

living legend

[JONAS STENQVIST]

eet Machli. No other tiger is as famous as Machli – a tigress of many firsts. It is said she outlived most of her kind, who average 10-15 years, to clock an amazing two decades. This Bengal tigress was synonymous with unbelievable feats like tackling 14-foot crocodiles and holding her own against constant attacks from males keen to edge her from a deer-rich territory in Ranthmbore National Park. Amazingly, Machli – the Hindi word for fish, so named because of the markings on her face – would go on to birth four litters of cubs with one cared for after she lost her canines and one of her eyes. It helped that she was rather camera friendly and most of these feats were recorded; she is said to be the most photographed tiger.

A tale of the most famous African wild cat that you never knew; and an even more famous cat from the subcontinent of India.

WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS

These earned her various titles including Queen Mother of Tigers and Tigress Queen of Ranthambore. Towards the end of her life and unable to fend for herself, the Forest Department of Rajastan intervened by providing her with food after she eventually lost her territory to one of her daughters. By 2016, when the tiger queen breathed her last, she was reported to be earning the park at least a billion shillings annually in tourist revenues. Machli was cremated in observance with traditional Hindu rituals in a public ceremony. She was also recognised with a lifetime achievement award as well as a commemorative stamp for her ecological and economical contributions. Kenya boasts of a big cat of similar stature and I can bet your mind drifted to Elsa the lioness. While Elsa managed to create a global buzz, she never truly enjoyed a free life. Her keepers, the Adamsons’, unique practice of taking lions born in captivity and teaching them to survive on their own before freeing them did not pan out as planned. The Government halted the practice in 1980 after a mauling incident in Kora. Introducing Scarface Fast forward to 2020. It’s half past midday on a hot Friday afternoon. I am part of a team of travel enthusiasts with whom I try to achieve at least one long distance road trip every quarter. I am held up in a meeting, much to the chagrin of my travel party. Our destination is the Masai Mara and the trip is spurred by the sighting of a legend that had been assumed dead. The legend’s name is Scarface, Masai Mara’s most famous lion. As the name suggests, Scarface has a visible scar above his right eye – part reason for his popularity. He also bears a dark mane that together with the scar give him an uncanny resemblance to Scar, a character from 1994 animation film Lion King. Well, the similarities end here. While Scar is portrayed as a wicked pretender to the throne, the real life lion bears none of those traits. For starters, in stark contrast, Scarface is a leader of the most famous lion pride in modern history – the Marsh Pride. He made his

debut to the world arena in in the longrunning nature documentary Big Cat Diary that tracked the life of big cats in the Mara. According to the account of Jonathan Scott, the show’s host, Scarface was part of a tag-team known as the Four Musketeers: Scarface, Sikio, Morani, and Hunter who were the last filmed leaders of the Marsh Pride. The pride had a succession of male leaders: Scar and Scruffy (1998-2000), Simba and Blondie (2000-2004), Notch and Light Male (2004-2007), Clawed and Romeo (2007-2011) from whom the Four Musketeers took over. As soon as the meet ends, I bolt to join the gang and atone for my delay by acquainting them with the recently tarmacked Thogoto-Gikambura-Mutarakwa road that joins up with Mai Mahiu road. The plan shaves off considerable time and as we turn off left at the dusty Mai Mahiu town onto the recently carpeted Suswa-Narok we are confident that we will arrive at the Sekenani entry point before the 6pm curfew after which visitors are not allowed into the park. Our joy is short-lived as we encounter the perennial protests of angry locals forcing us to detour onto a dusty road. Having inhaled more than the recommended daily dose of dust, we finally arrive in Narok where our guide receives us and transfers us to camp. Luxury in the bush Nothing gives me greater joy than the morning wake-up call and coffee.

Only the four-course gourmet meal devoured the night before in quixotic ambience would come close. This is advised by the fact that first and last light are the best time to catch most wildlife in action before the heat of the day forces them to retreat into the shades. As the croaking of frogs and chirping of crickets fades, we join our guide, Tony Lentumo, for our morning game drive. The camp is perched on the Magerrwa escarpment at the edge Siana Conservancy overlooking Oloolaimutia hamlet and the park’s main east entry gate by the same name. Shortly, we are out onto the infinite plains rumbling through shiny emerald green in search for our subject. A herd of old buffalo bulls stare at us down as indifferent ox peckers pick on their backs. Further on, a hunched hyena crosses our path and an elephant herd makes a close show to the delight of the clicking cameras. As the drive progresses, so does the rumbling in our stomachs, before Lentumo picks out tracks he attributes to the Black Rock Pride. Everyone is now alert, sticking out heads as we slink deeper and closer to the Serengeti.

“I wonder whether mzee Scarface will be honoured with a distinguished interment akin to that of the Queen of Ranthambore or his bones will have to contend with the jaws of the hyenas that he has lorded with disdain over the years.” By now, ours is the only vehicle in sight. We arrive at the aptly named Black Rock, but find nothing. After circling it several times, we resign to our fate. And just then, one of the members screams “There!” point-

ing at a lonesome figure in the sea of grass. As the blades of grass bend to the wind, I hover at the open sides of the modified vehicle, designed to maximise the game viewing experience, in admiration at the legendary lion. I can almost touch him! The king who has frolicked with countless females and contributed to the gene pool is beat,but remains unbowed. No one knows when Scarface was born, my guide intimates, other than he was first sighted coming from the Naboisoit area in 2008. He earned his famous gash in 2011 presumably from a dispute around the same time the Musketeers took over Marsh pride. In 2016, they took over the Paradise Pride and it is around that time that Scarface picked up the limp which he carries to date. He has survived many threats to his life including the claws of adversaries and morans’ spears. The guides who named him agree that he is perhaps the oldest known male wild lion and estimate that he is approaching his 16th birthday. After this sighting of the legend, we are satiated. Not even the sighting of Silingi, Maa for Hope, an equally well-known cheetah and her four cubs, on our way back can match. After a deserved breakfast, we properly take in the exquisite surrounding of our base – Emaiyan Camp. With the mission accomplished, we can very now indulge in the excesses of an all-inclusive luxury camp – Jacuzzi baths, massages, gininspired sundowners, bush dinners and binges way after lights out. A day later, as our red automobile throttles up the escarpment, I wonder whether Mzee Scarface will be honoured with a distinguished interment akin to that of the Queen of Ranthambore or his bones will have to contend with the jaws of the hyenas that he has lorded with disdain over the years.

[PHOTOS: KARUBIU]

The Standard

WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS

Final bow of

Tim

Towering Super Tusker who reigned supreme in the Amboseli, gives up ghost after five decades

By Peter Muiruri cchebet@standardmedia.co.ke

n December 1969, a baby elephant was born in Amboseli National Park. He was named Tim by Cynthia Moss, the intrepid American researcher who had arrived in Africa a year earlier. Like humans, elephants warmly welcome the birth of a new baby. They will congregate, trumpet, kick up dust and skirt around the scene. The birth of Tim must have elicited a similar display of affection. Human parents place high

hopes on a child and watch his growth with a keen eye. Will he be a liberator? Will he protect the community? Will he be an able provider? Tim died of a twisted gut on February 4 and since humans cannot understand elephant lingo, we may never know the hopes his family had bestowed on him. However, going by Tim’s 50 years of existence, he seemed to have fulfilled these roles – and many more. In addition, we have a glimpse of the life he lived up to the minute he breathed his last through the eyes of those who interacted with him. Cynthia, founder of Amboseli Trust for Elephants, first met Tim in September 1973. He was just another four-year-old elephant. He had no name. After some research and observations, she reckoned that Tim belonged to the TD family that was led by an old female (elephants are matriarchal) that Cynthia called Teresia. “She [Teresia] had a two-year-old calf, and a second female, whom I called Trista. Trista had a four-yearold eventually named Tim. The two-year-old was named Tolstoy. I was fairly sure Trista was Teresia’s daughter which made Tim her grand-

son. Tolstoy was actually Tim’s uncle even though he was younger,” explained Cynthia. Phew! How well do you know your family tree? Sadly, at the age of eight, Tim suffered his first major blow when his mother, Trista died. As per elephant customs, his immediate needs for protection and a sense of belonging were cared for by his immediate family. Then he hit adolescence, that age when youngsters demand more freedom. Tim left home at 15 to explore the dusty plains of Amboseli on his own. Survivor That was in 1984, a year when severe drought ravaged much of Amboseli. With little to eat within the protected area, elephants found themselves in the middle of human-wildlife conflicts. Many lost their lives, including Tim’s grandmother, Teresia, who was speared to death by local pastoralists who could not stomach her v o r a c i o u s appetite. Tim the bachelor survived this onslaught.

“I suspect he stuck with some of the older males who taught him where to go and how to stay safe,” remarks Cynthia. Then he hit 27, a pivotal age in his life. His hormones began to rage with corresponding high levels of aggression. At this time, testosterone levels can be as high as 60 times above normal rates. It was time for Tim to woo the females and begin a family of his own. But he had to fight it out with other like-minded males. It is called ‘musth,’ – a word you rarely encounter in the English language. Think of the overexcite-

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WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS ment and unpredictability caused by drunkenness, only that this excitement among male elephants can cause untold trouble in the animal kingdom. Got it? Right. This was to be Tim’s annual cycle for the rest of his life. He was a virile bull and must have sired many, filling Amboseli with his progeny. “Tim was much appreciated by the females in Amboseli. They always greeted him warmly when he came to test them to see if one was ready to mate. If a female was in oestrus he was especially gentle with her unlike some of the other bulls,” states Cynthia. Spectacular tusks As he grew, his special features came to the fore. His tusks were legendary. They were long, almost touching the ground he walked on. They were heavy too, weighing about 132 kilogrammes. They must have been the envy of poachers who believe that such an animal weighing over 6, 000 kilos ought to die to provide a carving to adorn a rich man’s home. Thousands of elephants in Africa gave their lives for such mundane causes before anti-poaching cavalries began their march. Tim, however, survived this assault to become one of the most observed and

photographed animal in Amboseli. “He was unassuming, unpretentious and laid back. A benevolent, slow moving preserver of peace at Amboseli, he was well-known and loved throughout Kenya,” stated a statement from Kenya Wildlife Service.

giant ruled the plains. “I feel fortunate that Tim let me get close to him on many occasions. If I said I was in awe of Tim, it was an understatement. Whenever others saw him there were gasps of disbelief.

Dark secrets These are colourful accolades but Tim had some dark secret. In his sunset years, he had set his “retirement home” around Kimana Wildlife Sanctuary. Then came a subtle change in land use around Kimana. Irrigated by the snows of Kilimanjaro, Kimana and environs became fertile grounds for propagation of horticultural and other food crops. Tim was watching and soon developed an appetite for tomatoes. He was speared at least three times by irritated farmers. Tim was collared in 2016, at least to monitor his movements and hopefully prevent what some described as his “sneaky, nightly excursions” into the farms. Two years later, he lost the collar and like a naughty grandfather, continued to lead younger males into the farms, much to the chagrin of farmers. But the icon has fallen. His rumbles will no longer be heard in the African plains. Just as they welcome the birth of a new baby, elephants mourn their dead. Some will even collect the bones for a dignified “burial.” However, Tim’s family did not have this honour. The body that carried those priceless tusks will lie at the National Museums of Kenya. Future generations will know that a

hope that the passing of Tim will inspire the launch of a national elephant naming ceremony so that all elephants can be celebrated annually as the heritage and identity of Kenya,” said Dr Paula Kahumbu, CEO WildlifeDirect.

16 GETAWAY

Wet and wild at Ngare Ndare Dare to dive, abseil and canopy-walk in this one of a kind community conservancy famous for its blue pools By Josaya Wasonga travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

eep in the heart of Laikipia County is the Ngare Ndare Conservancy. When you get here, it is important that you follow the guide’s instructions. There’s a chance that you will bump into elephants, buffaloes or rhinos from Lewa Conservancy or Mt Kenya. Rule of thumb: Do. Not. Panic. And however tempted you may be to snap that moment, do not! This isn’t the time or place to let loose your shutterbug side or floss your camera’s specs. Yes, a picture is worth a thousand words or likes and retweets, but, in this case, it can set you back a fortune in hospital bills. Respect the residents “Don’t talk in loud tones. This forest has its owners,” Jeremy Mwenda, our ranger-guide, lays down the law. “Sometimes when humans make too much noise, the owners can feel provoked or threatened and come out and, trust me, that’s not a good thing.” We park our Land Cruiser near a canopy walk, and hike to the two waterfalls, all the while speaking in hushed tones. The canopy walk will be, so to speak, our day’s dessert. Ngare Ndare is every hiker’s dream with inclining and declining trails that go past seasonal streams and rocky paths. If you have hiking boots, this is the place to put their soles to the test. Along the path, we pass fallen trees and Mwenda informs us that this is not the work of loggers. “That’s the handiwork – or, to be precise, trunk-work – of elephants, who are wont to flex their trunks just to show off who’s boss in this neck of the

woods,” Mwenda explains. “Elephants trek all the way from Mt Kenya and use Ngare Ndare as their maternity home. When rangers conduct their patrols, they usually come across placentas of elephants.” This conservancy is conducive for these majestic creatures since it is safe and has ample food and water. When faced with mortal danger from poachers in the north, they flee to Ngare Ndare. Those that die here are believed to have most likely been wounded elsewhere, before rushing to this refuge to hide and heal. Or, sadly, sensing imminent death, they retreat to this patch of hearth to give up their ginormous ghosts and hold heartrending mourning and burial wakes. “We also mourn when elephants die,” Mwenda confesses. “We feel it. A part of us dies with them. These aren’t just animals that we guard. They’re family that we cherish.” Divers’ delight We take a 30-minute walk to the first waterfall. The walk gives us an opportunity to connect with unspoiled nature, and perceive how nature intended us to coexist with her. The water at the falls has a blue tint because of glaciers and the fact that it originates underground. Around April and May, which is during the long rains, the water levels at both falls increase and the volume of the water from the falls hits the centre of the pool. During the long rains, the level of the water flowing out also increases and reaches the top of the rocks, making a visit to the foot of the fall virtually impossible. Other times of the year, the water flow is at its lowest. And it’s during such times that those who are in the know do cliff diving from the fall, which is at the highest point. Carry your bikini, shorts or, if you want to take it a notch higher – go skinny dipping. That’s a way to be one with nature.

“Elephants trek all the way from Mt Kenya and use Ngare Ndare as their maternity home. When rangers conduct their patrols, they usually come across placentas of elephants.” Jeremy Mwenda, a ranger-guide at Ngare Ndare Conservancy

To get to the diving point, you’ll have to clumber up the cliff, holding on to tree trunks and roots. Because of the towering trees and canopy, the water is cold even when the sun is out. Before you dive in, take a leisurely swim at the pool so that your body can acclimatise. Otherwise, you’ll get a shocker when you

dive in without first preparing your body. You can also do abseiling at this fall. But you’ll require special gear and experts to guide you. Abseiling is a risky sport and if you don’t have a background in sports like rock climbing, you’ll need guidance from professionals. A nice warm up before embarking on abseiling is necessary. It’s such little details that can be the difference between great and ugly memories. In abseiling, one must wear a protective head gear and a gear that holds their thighs and supports the whole body. And don’t forget to check the weather forecast as the rainy season is not the best time to abseil. At this time, there is plenty of dirt and debris in the water. During dry seasons, the water is clean, and that’s a clean bill of health.

17 GETAWAY Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Abseiling takes between one to 15 minutes. But pros are usually done and towelled in a record 5!

[PHOTOS: KENYA TOURISM BOARD]

Walk of fear The canopy walk takes the cake for me. Which is ironic, because I’m acrophobic. Taking the ladder up to the starting point is just what the phobia doctor ordered. It’s these steps that will determine whether I’ll walk or balk. Mwenda is a good sport – he walks right behind and encourages me. It doesn’t help my nerves that this is the second time I’m doing this walk

of fear. It feels like a whole ‘nother walk. “Mwenda?” I call out, halfway through, as the walk sways. “Was the length of this bad boy recently increased?” “Why?” he asks. “It wasn’t this long and winded the last time I was here.” The canopy walk is 40 feet high and 450 metres long, with twists and turns above the forest cover. The locals got hands-on expert help from the British Army, who were instrumental in putting up the pillars in 2001. “We recently added 100 metres to it because visitors became too familiar with it,” Mwenda shouts. “And as you know, familiarity breeds contempt.” “Why are you only telling me this now?” I gripe, clenching the cables tightly until my knuckles hurt. “Just kidding,” Mwenda laughs. “This is the same old longest canopy walk in East and Central Africa. Nothing has changed. It’s your mind that’s playing tricks on you.” If luck’s a lady, from your vantage point way up on the narrow wire and cable contraption, you will see elephants taking mud baths, wallowing at the swamp below or nibbling snacks from the nearby vegetation. For birders, the walk gives you the pluperfect platform to spot Ngare Ndare’s common birds; hartland turaco, narina trogon, tropical bulbul, Africana paradise flycatcher and Egyptian goose. Most visitors in Ngare Ndare are locals who arrive in droves on weekends in hired vans or private vehicles. Did I hear you ask, “Campsite?” Indeed, Ngare Ndare has one. But you have to bring two things: One, your own camping gear. And, two, a good attitude. Why? To paraphrase what someone once said: “Attitude is like a car with a flat tyre; you ain’t enjoying nothin’ in Ngare Ndare until you change it.”

The Standard

HOT LIST

Labour of love: Kenya’s unique romantic havens By Peter Muiruri travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

o many, holiday conjures up thoughts of an exotic location. However, it may be that some of the best locations are just next to you. Kenya abounds in serene holiday locations, most of which can be enjoyed without breaking a bank. But did you know that some of these hidden gems were conceived by Kenyans whose names may not ring a bell in the hospitality circles? Take a look.

Chaka Ranch, Nyeri

Located in Chaka, off the Nyeri-Nanyuki highway, Chaka Ranch is Kenya’s mini version of Disneyworld in combining both leisure and adventure, owned by media guru, Wachira Waruru. The ranch is nestled between Mt Kenya, Africa’s second highest peak and The Aberdare Ranges. Activities offered include go-karts and quad bikes for all ages, water parks, skating and paint balls as you feast on their barbeques.

Fred’s Ranch Resort, Kitengela Past Kitengela towards Isinya is Fred’s Ranch associated with veteran broadcaster, Fred Obachi Machoka. Since opening its doors in 2016, the resort has created a sensation in this part of Kenya with its cowboy-themed operations. The getaway is Kenya’s version of the Wild West epic adventure. The general manager, Victor Machoka (Fred’s son) is known as the “Sheriff” and trots around wearing a cowboy’s badge, so do the waitresses – the boots, hats, belts and a commanding attitude to boot. This is great getaway from the hustle and bustle of the city, with activities offered including quad bikes and horse riding.

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Kitui Villa, Kitui This boutique hotel is the brainchild of Prof Makau Mutua and his wife, Prof Athena Harris. But Kitui Villa was not meant to be a hotel. When work began in 2014, the couple that mostly resides in the US wanted to build a family home that would accommodate the couple and their three sons. Moved by the beauty of Ngilini village, however, the couple decided to build a hotel and share it with locals rather than just a home they would use once or twice a year. Today, the newest and stylish gem in Kitui is perhaps one of the best location to unwind in this part of Ukambani. Kitui Villa has provided a platform to honour fallen Pan-African heroes like Nelson Mandela, Mwalimu Julius Nyerere and Mekitilili wa Menza among others.

Stanley’s Haven, Murang’a

If you have never associated Murang’a County with camping, then you are in for a surprise. Stanley’s Haven offers weary travellers the option of camping in the cool Murang’a atmosphere. The brainchild of Stanley Kamau of Ahadi Kenya, the resort is dotted with verdant vegetation with green, open spaces popular with outdoor events. If you desire some privacy, the resort boasts a VIP reception for handling high profile individuals. And for those who are not into the outdoor, cottages and hotel rooms are within reach. Rumour has it that this is the best spot in the area to try kuku kienyeji.

Tangulia Mara, Masai Mara

This tented bush camp perched on a hill overlooking the Olotulo salt lick near the Mara River is one of the camps owned and run by locals. That is why the owners, Jackson Looseyia and Dominic Nchoe, named it Tangulia meaning “lead the way.” The two entrepreneurs were born and raised within Masai Mara. Jackson Looseyia is a seasoned and highly acclaimed safari guide with over 25 years of experience in the Mara. He shot to fame after working with BBC Big Cat diaries where he enthralled the global audience with his in-depth knowledge of the Masai Mara ecosystem and the Kenyan wildlife in general. He believes that locals should not shy away from setting up and running such establishments which for a long time have been dominated by foreigners. “Ours is an African experience. We love the bush and like it when Kenyans travel and enjoy the jewel that is Masai Mara,” says Looseyia.

The Standard

CONSERVATION

Chimps of Laikipia

Sanctuary caters for chimps rescued from traumatic situations By Caroline Chebet travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

o the average Kenyan, the word monkey is used interchangeably to mean a gorilla, ape, baboon and even chimpanzee. Indeed, these animals as well as humans are all primates but they all have distinct features. As such, many people may not know that the only place in Kenya where you are likely to find chimpanzees is Ol Pejeta’s Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary. The sanctuary is home to about 40 chimps rescued from traumatic situations due to illegal wildlife trade. Poco is one of the chimps who has found a safe haven at this sanctuary. This is rather peculiar considering the fact that chimps are not native to Kenya. You will spot him walking every so often. Not that he cannot crawl on all fours like other chimpanzees, but years of being forced to walk upright to impress his human owners have left a permanent mark on him. Their natural home range spans from Senegal on the

West African coast, through the forested belt of Central Africa, to Uganda. But as fate would have it, the Burundi civil war of 1993 forced the closure of a chimp rescue centre. The ensuing crisis prompted Ol Pejeta to set up a sanctuary the following year. It is presently a haven for 37 other chimpanzees rescued from traumatic situations, stemming from illegal wildlife trade. While some, including Poco, Akeela, Ali Kaka, Bahati and Bella, were rescued from cramped and unnatural living conditions; many others including Bo, Edward, Chirpie and George, if they could, would narrate horrific tales that plucked them from their homes and separated them from their mothers. “The sanctuary was then opened to create a haven for the chimps because the rescue centre in Burundi was also not safe then. Sweetwaters was established with an agreement between the Ol Pejeta Conservancy, the Kenya Wildlife Service and Jane Goodall Institute with an aim of providing lifelong refuge

to orphaned and abused chimpanzees from West and Central Africa,” the sanctuary supervisor Joseph Maiyo said. The sanctuary is a chartered member of the Pan African Sanctuary Alliance (PASA), an alliance bringing together 18 sanctuaries spread across 12 African countries with estimated populations of over 800 orphaned and rescued chimpanzees. These spaces seek to raise awareness on the plight of great apes in the face of illegal bush meat and illegal wildlife trade. Conservationists say that demand for bush meat, increased commercial logging that has led to habitat loss, as well as illegal wildlife trade in Central and West African countries has continued to fuel the cases of chimpanzees being illegally smuggled as pets in foreign countries. “In most of the cases, mothers are poached for bush meat trade and when the vulnerable babies are orphaned, they are sold and smuggled out to other countries as pets,” Mr Maiyo said. Illegal wildlife trade is steadily increasing, he says, driven by the demand from entertainment spots and circuses in some overseas countries. Mr Cyrus Githinji, an officer in charge of the chimpanzee adoption centre at the sanctuary said

infants are often victims of illegal wildlife trade because they are easy to train, smuggle out and handle compared to mature chimps who are stronger than human beings and harder to handle. “When chimpanzee babies are young, they are cute and playful. Unfortunately, as they grow older, the wild instincts manifest and they become aggressive. The owners start locking them in cages or even chaining them, a situation that often hampers their growth,” he said. Most of the rescued chimpanzee, he adds, are often traumatised while others, like Poco have poor muscle development because of being confined to cages. “Chimps kept as pets are often psychologically or physically scarred from their experiences and it usually takes time to reconcile and rehabilitate them,” Mr Mayo said. Further, Mr Githinji explains that the cost of hosting the chimps away from native habitats is higher since they are entirely dependent on their keepers for dietary requirements. “The cost of keeping a chimpanzee is over half a million annually and allowing them to breed might spiral the costs hence the need to control populations so as to also give orphans rescued the opportunity to be nursed,” Mr Githinji said. Despite this, a few individuals including Mwanzo, Ajabu, Angela, Joy and Oscar have, however, been born in the sanctuary overtime.

Fact file 3,000 great apes are lost every year to illegal trafficking. Chimpanzees live in the wild but it is estimated that they range between 150,000 and 250,000. Wild chimpanzees are only found in Africa with just five countries (Gabon, Central Africa Republic, Congo DRC and Cameroon) hosting significant populations. Chimpanzees live in equatorial belt of Africa tropical rainforests and deforestation is one of the major threats to chimpanzees as vast areas for their habitats are cleared for timber, farmland and settlement.

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WHAT‘S COOKING

The Nikkei experience By Secret Agent travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Peru’s cuisine is a variety of the cultural influences in the South American country. One such cultural influence is the combination of Japanese recipes and Peruvian ingredients to come up with what is known as Nikkei. This gastronomic sensation has made it to Nairobi.

erched on the 21st floor of One Africa Place building in Nairobi’s Westlands is a one-ofkind restaurant – INTI - A Nikkei Experience. Almost every foodie I know has been on and on about it – with Instagram images to boot! Suffice to say, FOMO was real. Well, the opportunity to sample this eatery came during Valentine’s season. This being my first dig at the Nikkei Experience, I did not know what

to expect. The bar is what you see first and the discomfiture of new surroundings herds you away from the din of the dining area and up the flight of stairs in what seems a more private sitting. That is how I reckon the wait staff know you are green. No sooner had my date and I located a meticulously laid out table than a waiter, decked in black, walked up to us and inquired

Hope Cakes is a leading provider of cakes in Nairobi, Kenya and its environs. We are driven by one thing - Passion. The minimum acceptable standards is to exceed our customer expectations. We are a 'one stop shop' for all your cake needs. Whether its a wedding you are planning, celebrating a birthday of a close friend or relative, having a graduation party, celebrating an anniversary, having a corporate function or just in the mood of partying, we will more than meet your cake needs. We have a huge range of cakes to select from, and if what you want is not in our range, we will get it for you.

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whether we had reservations. We did and were promptly seated. INTI is quite the popular spot and one needs to make reservations. Also, the management insists on a strict smart casual dress code. Ignore this at your own peril. At first I thought the restaurant was a crammed up space, only to discover that it actually sits 150. Faint light fixtures made from paper, which I would later learn produce lighting in the event of an outage, coupled with the brasseriestyle sitting with piped music give the eatery a contemporary feel. The Japanese influence is hard to miss especially above the sushi bar in the form of innumerable bamboo stems and the red emperor maple hangings across the room. I guess the illuminated pillars marked by jungle foliage are a representation of the Amazon Rainforest of Peru. Needless to say, the views from the top are amazing and I wish I had insisted on a window seat.

As I envied the couple next to us, the drinks and food menu arrived. Nikkei cuisine came into existence in 1889 when Japanese farmers moved to Peru to work in sugarcane fields. Since they didn’t have many of their traditional ingredients, they began using Japanese cooking techniques with the Peruvian ingredients they could find locally. This gave birth to an inspiring and unique cuisine known as Nikkei. I have to be honest, it has been a while since I was this excited try out an experience. When the food arrived, it was not only good, but the portions were generous. The ceviche, a seafood dish originating in Peru is principally fish cured in tiger milk served in Flintstone-like bowls, was divine. I was particularly impressed that the fish was firm and neatly cut up into solid pieces that held their shape. My coriander duck option served on green rice and huancaina sauce, a Peruvian appetizer of boiled yellow potatoes in a spicy, creamy sauce was to die for, even though my date did not particularly enjoy her meal remarking that the shrimp was overwhelming. But to her credit, she enjoyed the Caribbean-inspired Tres Leches cake – some type of sponge cake – doused in pisco – a type of brandy – and matched with a tangerine sorbert. Speaking of pisco, all cocktails served at INTI are based on this Peruvian brandy. Peruvian pisco begins life as grape juice, which is first fermented to common wine before being distilled in a copper pot to make liquor with an alcohol content of between 38 and 48 per cent. After it’s rested for a minimum of three months in either glass or metal containers, it is bottled solo (no additives or additional flavouring allowed).

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My taste for fine things earns me a pretty dime Meet Mulunda Kombo, the Glenfiddich national ambassador, a self-taught chef, and digital media influencer.

By Tracy Gesare travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

ou have charted a path from the love of preparing good food to being a premium alcoholic beverage national brand ambassador, what has been your driving force? I am motivated by the fact that I genuinely enjoy what I do, and I constantly tap into ideas and make them a reality. I want to honour what God has given me and make something out of it. Luckily, my passion coincides with my talent which is a self-fulfilling prophesy as they drive and feed off each other. What does a premium brand ambassador role entail? My role is to educate and curate experiences. One of my main objectives is removing the stereotype that Glenfiddich is consumed by certain class of people. For instance, recently, we took a few selected people to Lamu for the first of many Glenfiddich experiences. Being a self-taught chef, were you always around the kitchen growing up? I could say yes I was but not actively participating – I was just an observer. My family has a history of being in the

member a time we were planning on hosting 60 people but ended up with 120 clients.

hospitality industry. For instance, my brother has been in the industry for close to 30 years. Whenever I visited him, I would spend considerable time around the kitchen. How and when did the culinary art bug bite? Looking back, I can now see it was a slow but distinct process. I sustained an injury while playing rugby in South Africa that saw me in and out of hospitals – and I had to contend with bland tasting food. It was a tough time and the bad food made the situation even worse. During that recovery time, I stumbled on baking. Later on, I went on a work trip to Italy and I was blown away by the food. Our host’s 90-year-old grandmother made, from scratch, the most amazing pasta I have ever had. From then on, I threw out all my excuses about not cooking. What is your main objective in presenting your culinary artistry? I like converting obscure places into a dining experience. That includes everything from drinks cocktails, pairings, to ambience. Of all the places I have been to, I loved an intimate cliffside dinner I hosted at Champagne Ridge and the other place would be The Lake House in Tigoni. I am enjoy creating dining experiences as opposed to just having a meal. Seeing that you do not work for any restaurant or own one, how do you cater to your clientele? I currently do pop-ups, private dining events and barbecues. At the popups, it is exclusively my menu. I set the

price according to the number of courses and level of execution. For private dining gigs, I am invited to homes where I develop a menu according to my hosts’ needs. This sometimes involves food pairing with whisky. Then there’s the barbecues that I am big on given that I absolutely I enjoy cooking outdoor. What was the transition like from cooking as a hobby to monetizing it? I had not thought of making money from my cooking until my sisters encouraged me. They even helped set up the first pop-up restaurant which to me was much needed market research. Then, I was not charging for the meals. It became such a huge success. I re-

“I got injured while playing rugby and had to contend with bland food during my long recovery process in hospital. This experience pushed my into the culinary arts...”

Were your findings significant in how you run the business concurrently to your appointment? I was trying to determine what people would pay for certain items. Having not gone to any culinary school or trained as a chef, it was important for me to invest in knowledge to justify my charges. It helped me create my business model. You are talented in sports; you make great meals and have an interest in photography, all which get well with your current position. Do you have a hobby that is unrelated with what you do? Scrabble! I enjoy playing Scrabble and my family also loves this board game. We usually have a family Scrabble tournament where the winner gets a prize. A bottle of whisky for the gentlemen and a spa date for the ladies. I am hoping to change that as well because women drink whisky too. What do you think a proper kitchen should have? Any kitchen worth its salt should be fully stocked on spices. The complexity of a dish comes from aromatics which can come from a dynamic and stocked spice rack.

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THE STORY BEHIND

By Jayne Rose Gacheri travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

ost towns have a meaning behind their names. As a traveller, you will encounter interesting names of places – ranging from bizarre, fascinating, puzzling, mysterious, fanciful, to unusual. The fact is, there is always a story behind the names of most places. Different methods were and are still in use in naming places. Sometimes, localities share names with a slight variation, but it is also possible to get two or more places in different areas sharing a name. The study of names of places, their origin, meaning, pronunciation, and their use is referred to as toponymy. Names of places provide the most meaningful and accurate geographical reference. We sample the names of some Kenyan towns and their meaning:

Did you know that the names of most Kenyan towns have a meaning behind them? Now you do!

Behind every is a story

Mombasa: Mombasa was founded in 900 BC by two rulers – Mwana Mkisi, a pagan queen and Shehe Mvita. Records indicate that Mkisi founded the settlement of Kongowea, a name associated with Kongo which denotes civilisation in central Africa. The area was plagued by many wars and that is why Kongowea became known as Kisiwa Cha Mvita (Island of War), later becoming mambo ni sasa (things are now). The name Mombasa was concocted from the first four letters of the word Mambo, and the last three letters of Sasa, coining the name Mambasa which later changed to Mombasa for easier pronunciation. Kisumu: When European traders settled on the shores of Lake Victoria, the Luo from Migori and Siaya began traversing to the centre to do business. A person going to the trading centre would say, Adhi kisuma, meaning I am going to do business (barter trade). The name Kisuma or “Kisumo” morphed into the current name Kisumu. Another theory put forth is that the town acquired the name from Kusoma, the Maragoli word for trading. The argument is that before the Luo arrived in the trading arena, the Maragoli were already trading with other people like the Nandi and Maasai, taking the argument further that some Dholuo words are borrowed from Maragoli dialect.

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THE STORY BEHIND

Marsabit: Legend has it that a farmer from the Burji tribe of Ethiopia travelled with colonialists to present-day Marsabit to teach locals how to grow crops. Whenever the colonialists called out his name, Marsa would answer Abet – “yes” in Amharic which is what led to the name MarsaAbeit, which later became Marsabit. Karatina: The present-day town of Karatina is synonymous with the name of a squash/courgette tree whose name is Muratina in Gikuyu. It is said that Kikuyu women in this area traded their wares and food under a Muratina tree. When giving directions of this fast-growing trading centre, the women would refer to the place as Karatina, meaning, under the small courgette tree. That is how Karatina got its name. Kabarnet: The story behind this town is that it is named after a white man, called Barnet, who settled in the area. The local Tugen people then started to refer to the place as Ka-Barnet, the word Ka meaning, “the homestead of” and gradually the centre grew to become Kabarnet – the homestead of Barnet. Kakamega: Legend has it that when colonial settlers came to the present-day Kakamega, they were mystified by the way the Luhya relished their traditional staple food of ugali. They would “pinch” the food as they feasted on the meal. The word Kakamega translates to “pinch”, and soon, the centre grew to become the present-day Kakamega. Voi: According to ancient history, some 400 years ago, a former slave trader called Chief Kivoi, settled near the present-day Voi area. Thereafter, the centre became a large trading centre, which grew rapidly and was named Kwa Kivoi after the chief. In time it became the present-day Voi town. THE UNDISPUTED MAA EFFECT Most towns in the Rift Valley and neighbouring areas have their names rooted in Maa toponyms. However, many of these names have been anglicised:

Nairobi: Fondly referred to as ‘green city in the sun’ Nairobi was in the early 19th century community land for the Maasai. The area was marshy, with a river flowing through it, which is why the Maasai gave it the name enkare nyrobi, which translates to “cold water”. The population growth and construction that happened after colonial visitation have since robbed Nairobi of its cool waters and marsh. Nakuru: Once labelled the cleanest town in East Africa, the town derives its name from a Maasai word meaning “a place of dust”. History indicates that Nakuru came into existence in 1900 when the building of the railway opened up the countryside. Eldoret: The town is named after the Maasai word eldore meaning stony river, from the dry stony bed of Sosiani River. The town was called Farm 64 because the town was 64km away from the Kibigori Railway station, a part of the Kenya-Uganda railway. The town was officially known as Eldoret in 1912. Nyeri: Another town named after a Maasai word, nyiro meaning red. The land that was part of the Maasai grazing lands was given the name due to its red volcanic soils. Colonial settlers later changed the name to Nyeri, as in most such cases for easier pronunciation.

Other towns with Maasai names Longonot: A Kikuyu corruption of the Maa, O-loonongot, meaning volcanic vales. Ngong: A dissertation of the Enk-ongu, Maasai “water spring” Njoro: Maasai for E-nchorro, meaning a place of spring water. Nyahururu: From the Maasai word enaiwurruwurr, meaning waterfall Naivasha: e-naiposha, meaning lake in Maasai. Athi River: Ol lera, meaning “the Acacia lined river” Eldama Ravine: Oldama O-rropil, standing for “a sweet-smelling hillside” in Maasai Uasin Gishu: This is the anglicised version of Il-wuasin-kishu, meaning “the people of the spotted cattle” about the Maasai (olosho) who once inhabited the elevated plateau north of Kerio Valley. Limuru: The name is from the Maasai word, Loolmorog, about the native plum trees grown here. The list is inexhaustible. However, most of the original Maasai place names are now corrupted due to influece of the colonial era, ethnic integration and continued interference of slang parlances.

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At par with golf A glimpse into the long history of the game in Kenya By Peter Muiruri travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

lbatross, birdie, eagle and dog-leg – these are words you may associate more with avian creatures and man’s best friend than a high-stakes game. Then there are the tees, pars, bunkers, bogeys and fairways. Again, words that may not mean much to you, but in the game of golf, they have everything to do with a person’s prowess, or lack of it, in driving a ball through the fairway and finally into the hole. And there is nothing unbecoming in a threesome or foursome when it comes to golf. These are perfect match plays aimed at getting the ball in the hole. Take that as the abbreviated version of a game played all over the world but whose origin is as complicated as the game itself. If you’re struggling to wrap your head around the above phrases, you are in good company. A majority of Kenyans know little about the game and usually associate it with the rich. And you can’t blame them. A search in the main golfing websites gives conflicting information about its origins.

Some say it involved hitting a feather-stuffed ball with a club-shaped branch. And unlike your estate football tournament that is played in the almost barren neighbourhood pitch, you cannot just walk into a golf course to watch the action – unless you have paid a tidy sum in membership fees. We still await the construction of public golf courses in Kenya, hopefully after the promised stadiums! As the game took shape, it was associated more with the country of Scotland. However, controversies dogged this noble game. For example, King James II outlawed golf in the 1400s as it “distracted people from military training”. In later years, ‘sinners’ were punished by the church for playing golf on Sundays. In 1799, the St Andrews links were sold to rabbit breeders, resulting in the ‘Rabbit Wars’ that lasted 16 years. Scottish roots Interestingly, the current rules of golf can be traced to Scotland, with rule books bearing the Royal & Ancient Golf Club of St Andrews – the Mecca of golf. To a non-golfer or a beginner, the rules can be complicated and we shall not attempt to duplicate them here. The key rule to remember is – play the ball as it lies! Quite simple, right? Well, easier said than done. The late 1880s brought with it the infamous scramble for Africa, when European powers sat in Berlin and conspired to partition African land among themselves. The British Empire spread its tentacles in most African countries, and so did the game of golf. In fact, the game is older than Kenya itself. Some form of golf may have been played on farms and in some small clubs at the turn of the 20th

Century. However, documentation to validate the existence of such clubs is non-existent. “There is evidence that a rudimentary course in the Parklands area was constructed in 1902 and, although its exact location may be disputed, another was situated somewhere near the then Swamp Road in 1905. Primitive though it may have been, it is where Kenya’s first ‘hole in one’ was achieved by a Mr GW Knapman to beat a Mr TL Hartley, another prominent golfer of the day,” stated a 2006 publication on Royal Nairobi Golf Club centenary celebrations. Kenya’s oldest golf club Royal Nairobi Golf Club is officially the oldest golf club in Kenya and was inaugurated as a nine-hole course in 1906, way before the country itself had a name. The club is named after British King George V ‘Royal’ and was bestowed the Royal Charter on July 15, 1936. The club gives some insight into the early status of the game, when there was no piped water and the grounds were more ‘browns’ than ‘greens’. Playing on the expanding course was proving tough for some prominent members, including AC Tannahill (after whom the Tannahill Shield is named) who remarked that “only Plutocrats with automobiles would be able to enjoy the course as the ordinary person with only a pedal bicycle as a means of transport would arrive so jaded as to be quite incapable of properly enjoying his game.” The club is also instrumental in developing junior golf. The Junior Tannahill Shield was inaugurated in 2016 and is contested by upcoming juniors from all over the country. Junior Tannahill is

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THE STORY BEHIND

A section of the Royal Nairobi Golf Club. [Gilbert Otieno]

The well-lit hole number 18 at the Muthaiga Golf Club. [XN Iraki]

usually played before the main Easter Tournament and is essential for the continuity of the main tournament and for the future of golf in the country. Since then, close to 40 golf clubs in Kenya have embraced the game. In comparison, South Africa has 500 golf clubs. The local clubs are under the patronage of the Kenya Golf Union that was inaugurated on December 28, 1928. Coincidentally, AC Tannahill convened the meeting where the idea of forming a golf union for East Africa was mooted. Apart from Royal Nairobi Club, Muthaiga and Karen are among the oldest clubs in Kenya. Muthaiga has

been in existence since the early 1920s while the first nine holes in Karen were completed in 1923. Karen and Muthaiga have hosted the largest number of international games and are synonymous with the game in Kenya. Kenya Open From March 12 to March 15, this year, Karen Country Club will host the 52nd edition of the Magical Kenya Open Championship as part of the PGA European Tour. Like in the golden days of the Safari Rally, Kenya Open has become a premier sports event drawing Kenyans to the hallowed grounds of golf clubs like moths to a flame. The ‘open’ part of its name means the competition is open to contestants regardless of their professional or amateur status. Along the coast, there is Vipingo’s Baobab designed by legendary golfer David Jones, a past champion of the Kenya Open. Last December, the course hosted the Magical Kenya Ladies Open, the first time professional female golfers competed in the region.

A game of the elite? Chris Isabwa, Royal Nairobi Golf Club’s captain, dispels the notion that golf is a game for the rich and elite. Long referred to as ‘the gentleman’s game’, Isabwa says golf has carried with it upper class associations, while its history invokes ideas of exclusive country clubs with gates that opened only for those with power, money and influence. But that, he says, is changing. “The reality is that anyone can pick up the game as long as they have an interest in it. However, club membership joining fees can be very prohibitive, but most corporate organisations have realised the networking value of the game of golf and offer club membership as part of the benefits offered to middle-level managers,” he says. In addition, Isabwa says the introduction of ‘pay and play’ courses such as Golf Park in Racecourse, Nairobi, has given a broader range of income earners the chance to play the game. What about the prohibitive costs of golfing gear? Isabwa says golf equipment is expensive due to increasing research and development costs. Manufacturers also mark up the cost of equipment significantly as it’s a very competitive sector, which requires spending large sums of money on marketing. “The situation is compounded by the high taxes levied on golf equipment, which is probably informed by the perception that golf is a rich man’s game.”

Some golf terms explained Par refers to the pre-determined number of strokes a golfer requires to complete a round. Each of the 18 holes is rated according to its length. Thus you hear of a Par 3 Hole 2 or Par 4 Hole 5. Add the number of pars and you have the total for the course. Most 18-hole courses in Kenya are either Par 71 or 72. In golf, the fewer strokes you play, or under par, the better the score. Play one under and you score a birdie. Play two strokes under par and you get an eagle. Assuming your golf is perfectly beyond reproach, play three strokes under par and an albatross is yours to keep. Let’s flip the coin and say that you played more strokes per hole than necessary. Play one, two or three strokes over par and you get a bogey, double bogey or triple bogey. After that, your name just changes to ‘Piga Mingi’. In golf, however, it seems that course designers wanted to create as difficult conditions as possible by inserting hazards like bunkers -

those sand-filled trenches along the fairway and the greens. The fairway is the well-trimmed part of the course between the green and the tee. Even the beautiful lakes and other water features you see on a course are nothing more than hazards meant to make golfers’ lives difficult. The tee is the somewhat raised ground where the first shot is played from. The green is that neatly mowed, carpet-like segment where golfers use the flat-bottomed putter to sink the ball in the hole. To move golf equipment around the course, a golfer uses the services of a caddie, a word derived from the French ‘le cadet’ or the boy. This is where we get the English word cadet, or young military recruits. Golf requires strict etiquette, both for players, officials and spectators. It is regulated through a set of rules enforced locally by the Kenya Golf Union. Breaking some rules can result in hefty fines or other sanctions, including expulsion from a club.

Kenya’s Simon Ngige during the Magical Kenya Open 2019 at Karen Country Club. [Jonah Onyango]

HIDDEN GEMS

A slice of heaven on earth

Travelog gets an exclusive peek at the latest hospitality offering in the heart of Maasai land By Thorn Mulli travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

had overslept. My mate, without doubt, would be upset at me for missing the morning workout that we had pencilled for 6am. It was fast approaching 9am, and I could barely get myself to leave the comfort of the mattress and high thread count bedsheets. As I lumbered to draw open the blackout curtains, I made a mental note to change my mattress as soon as I got home. Fog so thick that you needed a blade to cut through greeted me through the wall-high glass doors. My dreamy surroundings were quite unforeseen. I mean, I was on the edge of the Rift Valley yet it looked like I was tucked somewhere on the Scottish highlands. I have never been to the land of kilted bagpipers, haggis and Scotch whisky, but I could not shake the feeling that if I ever did, it

would look like this. No, this was not the previous night’s drink thinking because I was in an alcohol-free facility. I reckon then that my recollection of the epic war film Braveheart, credited to a significant extent for transforming the fortunes of the country’s tourism, is overly vivid. Still groggy, I strode across the common space of the chalet into the next room to noisily wake the rest of the family lest we missed breakfast that was closing in an hour. Nothing gives me better joy than discovering new haunts. The offseason, when most establishments have few to no guests, is my favourite time to travel. That means I avoid the scramble for the last piece of bacon at the breakfast buffet or for my turn on the treadmill. The best part is the undivided attention of the staff. This mostly translates to better service, inconceivable discounts and a possible room upgrade. So on the palindrome day of the month past [February 2], I set out on a visit to sample one of

Kajiado’s latest hospitality options nestled on the hills of Kipeto. I have been to Kajiado and have an understanding of how unforgiving the terrain can be once you leave the smooth Kajiado-Namanga Highway tarmac. Against better judgement, however, I still self-drove in a ‘small’ car. My guide had after all intimated that my destination was not too far from Kajiado town. Well it technically isn’t, being roughly 20 kilometres from Kajiado town. The recent rains have rendered some sections of the all-weather Old Namanga Road, which led to my destination in Ilyagaleni locality, challenging. The first is a water crossing on a swelled seasonal river that provides quite the danger rush you get when you know you are engaging in something you should not. While this was hazardous fun for me, the second black cotton soil challenge about 500 kilometres to the destination was not as thrilling. Thankfully, the sun’s recent longer appearances has been caking the mud, so

I did not miss the joy handed by the breathtaking landscape. In short, should you come up that way, a vehicle with good legs and high ground clearance is recommended. Despite the odds, I arrived at Saab Royale Kajiado in time for lunch three hours after setting off from the capital. The signage is clear but can be hard to spot in the dark as my mates who arrived after sunset

found out. I also bet I would have shaved more minutes off my time had I opted for the freshly laid Ngong-KiserianIsinya route, avoiding the Kitengela snarl-up. Even after enduring a hot drive through the Kajiado lowland, the welcome relief of the Kipeto hills was hard to wrap my head around. My ‘knowledge’ of the county had led me to pack light wear, but imposing wind turbines a stone’s throw away from the property were a constant reminder that Kenya is a country of unparalleled diversity. I am sure the name Kipeto rings a bell. It is the site of the second-largest wind power project in Kenya after the wind farm in Loiyangalani in Marsabit County. Christened the Kipeto Wind Power Project, the farm covering an area of approximately 70km2 boasts potential for generation capacity of 100MW of clean, renewable energy. For you to know, but not necessarily remember, the area has long been recognised as a place rich in wind resources, with the first wind turbine installed by the Belgian government in 1993. What is less highlighted, however, but is worth remembering, is that Kipeto’s cliffs are the breeding site for raptors, including the critically endangered Rüppell’s

HIDDEN GEMS Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: TravelogKe Website: www.travelog.ke

and white-backed vultures. This is worth remembering because vulture numbers, according to Bird-Life International, have dropped drastically in the past 30 years across Africa. While these birds might not be the prettiest of sights, a healthy vulture population is vital for ecological balance as they dispose of carrion that would otherwise be a breeding ground for disease. Just in case you are wondering, the stakeholders of the wind farm project have committed to limit, if not eliminate, the number of bird collisions with the turbines, while investing in boosting vulture numbers. After an English-style breakfast, I could not help but ascent the rock face of the highest kopje. From this vantage point, I could take in the entire property and the endless expanse. At the foot of the white lichen-covered, rock is the clubhouse that hosts the television lounge and restaurant. Flanking it to the left is the children’s climbing tower and adult playroom with billiard and table tennis tables. To the right, hidden in

shrubbery, are the nine cottages that make up the accommodation. Saab Royale Kajiado has suites, single rooms and chalets that are disabled-friendly. In the soundproof rooms are comforts like a mini bar, air conditioning, kitchenette, refrigerator and unlimited wi-fi. Further below and most visible are a fitness centre and heated swimming pools served by a juice bar. All the structures mimic the lichen-covered kopje and are designed after the area’s native manyatta. I have to commend the gardening team that has turned the space into a colourful retreat. The days are bliss. If you are not frolicking with your loved ones on the hanging egg chairs, then you are filling your lungs with fresh air on nature walks after hearty meals. If you are not kicking up dust on dirt bikes, then you probably will be breaking a sweat in the steam room. Travel changes you every time and as I sped towards Kiserian town rejuvenated, I was convinced that human ingenuity can change perceived bareness into a sought-after escape.

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WELLNESS

Exercise and travel to boost intimacy By Jeff Anthony travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Amazing tips to transform your ordinary holiday to a loving and satisfying experience for couples

otels are now embracing the idea of having wellness centres and outdoor activities for a wholesome holiday experience for couples. Apart from the health and fitness centres, hotels are also investing in swimming pools that supplement a romantic post-workout program. One benefit of exercise is the boost of self-confidence. A person who exercises daily, occupies the conviction of being capable of achieving any goal. Another inevitable and therapeutic advantage of a regular workout regimen is high selfesteem. This creates a consistent rapid blood flow in both men and women that immensely supplements the euphoria of an exciting holiday. The anticipation of an exciting activity triggers the release of dopamine, a neurotransmitter that helps control the brain’s reward and pleasure centres, making us happy. Cardiovascular activities like jogging, skipping, swimming and punching the boxing bag, reduce the chances of erectile dysfunction in men and boost sexual desire in women. When couples engage in workouts during vacations, it results in a deeper bond and connection and eliminates disagreements in the relationship, turning the focus to intimacy. The mere idea of being away from regular routine of one’s household, the unfamiliarity of a holiday location adds to the joy. This leads to greater sexual enhancements leading to

adequately reliable functioning during sex and high percentage of satisfying orgasms. Abdominal exercises like riding the ab wheel, planks, side crunches and leg lifts improve sexual experience and help combat premature ejaculation in men when combined with meals that are high in cholesterol. Kegel exercises by women to strengthen the pelvic floor can be done for a more satisying experience. Exercises help build muscles and endurance. During a worksout, the brain deciphers the exercise as stress. To protect itself from further stress, it releases Brain Deprived Neurotrophic Factor-BDNF – a preoperative element to memory neurons that acts as a reset switch. Endorphins are then released to minimise the discomfort of exercise. Shielding the feeling of pain and causing happiness. BDNF and endorphins are the reasons exercises make us feel good. That results to the relief we experience after a workout. As a couple, when the euphoria of vacationing is combined with exercises, good health and emotionally bonding strengthen the relationship. To maximise on your holiday experience, it is essential to book a rooms with serene views that add romantic energy towards the getaway. A room overlooking the wilderness of grazing and hunting game, a balcony with a view of the sunset and a windy lakeside or oceanic view are added intimacy inducing sights towards a satisfactory trip. When in a hotel room, it helps to be adventurous. Creatively make sentimental use of the balcony, bathroom, bathtub, coffee table and the entire facility to capitalise on the effects of an exercise boosted libido. Experiment on your wildest thoughts, explore your spouse’s body and transform a typical trip into a highly memorable vacation.

Jeff Anthony is a novelist, a Big Brother Africa 2 Kenyan representative and the founder of Jeff’s Fitness Centre. @jeffbigbrother

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BUDGET BREAKS

Bungoma beyond the cut Sleepy western town slowly waking up to claim a spot on Kenya‘s tourism map

4. TRADITIONAL BRIDGE (KUMFUNJE)

This is a traditional bridge that was used by residents to cross the river in the olden days and is still used to date to cross rivers Nzoia and Kuywa. Built in in 1990, it serves up to 300 people daily.

5. AGRO TOURISM

By James Wanzala travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

stablished as a trading centre in the early 20th Century, Bungoma is home to the Bukusu sub-tribe of the larger Luhya tribe. It is claimed that the name ‘Bungoma’ emanates from drums. The town was a meeting place of Bukusu elders who used drums ‘engoma’ to summon people to meetings. It was, therefore, referred to as the place of drums by the Bukusu, hence the name Bungoma. Bungoma County, in western Kenya, is a rich tourism destination with unique attractions. It can be accessed from Nairobi through Nakuru, Eldoret then to Turbo and Webuye, which is in Bungoma or from Nakuru to Kisumu, then Mumias by road – a journey of about eight hours by road from Nairobi. You can also fly to Kisumu Airport and drive to Bungoma through Kakamega-Mumias road. Alternatively, you can fly to Eldoret Airport and drive to Bungoma. In recent times, there has been a growth of hotels and guest houses within Bungoma town. Many are familiar with the cultural tourism in August during circumcision season, but there is more that the county can offer for a first time traveller. We sample a few choice spots for you here below:

3. SIKELE SIA MULIA

Located 17km away from the town in Namwacha village, is a historic stone ground. It is believed that a man called Mulia lived here many years ago and left footprints and other prints that are visible to date. Other imprints on the rocks are of items owned by Mulia like a bed, tie rope and lampstand as well footmarks of his animals like sheep and cows.

1 VISIT THE ROCKS AND HILLS

Bungoma is endowed with rocks that provide a scenic view. The sites are commonly used for picnics and photoshoot locations. Some of them include the Mwaibale Wa Mwanja, a volcanic rock found 20km south east of Bungoma town. Wekeleha is another rock site situated south west of Bungoma town in a village called Wekeleha. Apart from the rocks, there are also Sang’alo and Kabuchai Hills. A visit to Bungoma is not complete without a tour of Chetambe Fort. It is said that Chetambe Ifile, a Tachoni warrior, built the fort on the hill from where he mobilised his troops to resist colonial rule. The 1895 massacre, in which almost 500 people were killed by British troops, was the unfortunate result.

Bungoma, being in the rich western sugar belt has vast farms under the indegenous cash crop. A visit to the farms to learn how sugarcane is planted, weeded, harvested and finally taken to the Nzoia Sugar factory for processing is one of the attractions here. The sweetness also comes in tasting the sugar in the factory. Common tales peddled have it that visitors to the sugar factories, are allowed to eat as much sugar as they can but they cannot carry any. From here, you can visit their guest house located a few kilometres away.

2. WATERFALLS

Several fascinating waterfalls including Teremi and Nabuyole are found in the county. Teremi, which means rapid downward flow of water is found on the slopes of Mt Elgon 50km from Bungoma town, while Nabuyole comes from River Nzoia as it climbs down Chetambe hills to produce a scenic site. The river forms several small tributaries that later merge form Nabuyole Falls with a height of 14km. It is found in Webuye sub-county, about 30 kilometres from Bungoma Town.

6. MT ELGON NATIONAL PARK

Mt Elgon is the country’s second highest mountain after Mt Kenya and among the ten highest mountain in Africa. It is located approximately 50 kilometres north of Bungoma town and has two peaks on the Kenyan side, ideal for mountain climbers. Inside it is a national park that is habitat for several wildlife species, including elephants. In fact, the mountain has caves, some which are elephant mating bedroom and maternity at Chesamo. Elephants also frequent the caves to lick salt. Making’eny Cave, located 1.5km from Kitum cave, has a spectacular waterfall over its mouth. Visitors can explore the forest and also enjoy biking, hiking, and rock climbing on the mountain.

THE CONNOISSEUR

[PHOTOS: GEDION MAUNDU]

Brush with the

presidents’ painter Artist has managed to remain relevant in the face of technology By Philip Mwakio travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

uber Bakhrani, 46, grew up in Mombasa’s Mwembe Tayari estate and took up painting at an early age after seeing his father, Abdulaziz, put colourful designs on fabric, creating iconic silk saris. Since these early days, Zuber has gone on to create works of art that grace the homes of the high and

mighty, h u n dreds of kilometres away from where he originally sits to paint. He’s painted a wide range of national leaders, from the founding president, Mzee Jomo Kenyatta, to the second president, Mzee Daniel Toroitich arap Moi, and various other politicians and business moguls.

ing. He’s honed his craft in the years since, and says he gets a lot of his inspiration from his interactions with the outside world. As a result, he loves travel. “I like going out to explore nature. My passion, profession and profit is art. I live and dream art, and I’m always on the go, drawing something,’’ he said in a recent interview in Mombasa.

Deep love Zuber is quick to point out that a lot of his art depicting the who’s who in Kenya is done voluntarily. “These are celebrities and people who command huge followings and persons of interest in our country; I get a sense of satisfaction presenting these works to them,’’ he says. He attributes his deep love for what he does to his art-loving family of seven siblings – two brothers and five sisters, as well as his parents. Zuber attended Memon High School, completing his studies in 1986 . He spent a lot of his free time taking up a brush to paint, or sketch-

Humble beginnings Zuber says his first pieces of art he made were film posters, which he used to paint in cinema halls. “Upon completion, I was really amazed at what I had done and from there on , there was no looking back,’’ he says. Zuber thanks the media for having spotted him and highlighting his work. “Over time, I have built a growing fan base that has come to admire and appreciate my work,’’ he says. Zuber says his art has allowed him to travel across Kenya, several parts of the rest of Africa and a handful of

countries in Europe. He has donated a lot of his work to museums of history and in galleries. Zuber, however, acknowledges that contemporary artists are presently facing challenges in their dayto-day work in the face of advances in technology that mean almost anyone can create their own work of art. He is, however, confident that hand-crafted art remains superior as it represents the faithful face of expert skill. “Competing with technology keeps an artist active and innovative,’’ he says. The artist also credits himself with being among the first painters in the country to experiment with 3D painting, which has become a popular art form. Zuber, however, says he has no particular style when painting. “I want to encourage more budding artists to take up art. Part of my outreach includes giving talks at school parties and to the public through social media. I’m available to anyone who needs me,” Zuber says.

MADE IN KENYA

A new wine order Community turns desert plant into a source of livelihood By Ivy Waridi travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

hen someone hands you a wine list, what is your automatic first choice? My option is a sweet red combination. If I am lucky to be in the presence of a sommelier, then maybe on their advise, my choice will change. But do you ever think about what goes into the making of your favourite bottle of wine or are you content with the knowledge that there is an expert working in a vineyard somewhere in France or South Africa? Let me introduce you to a wine whose main ingredient you would never imagine.

The Naishamu (which means sweet in Maasai) red wine comes from Kenyaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Nanyuki region. It has been in production since 2015, and its unique factor is that it is made from the cactus plant. We are experimenting a lot more with nature, which is how something we would otherwise ignore is being used to create something that is being consumed worldwide. Cactus-based products might seem like a health risk because of how we perceive the plant, but the extract from cactus has been consumed for ages around the world in places such as Mexico. It was also tested at Jomo Kenyatta University of Agriculture and Technologyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nutrition department, and they found that it was rich in vitamins K and E, calcium and magnesium. Naishamu is made at the Laikipia Permaculture Centre. It is aimed at teaching communities to utilise the

natural resources available to them. It also translates into an income and provides an environmental solution to the communityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s issues. Cactus wine is still growing in popularity, but is something that can be picked up in arid and semi-arid areas across the country. The Nanyuki institution uses this invasive species by making use of the fruit to make wine. It also aids in the mitigation of the spread of this plant. The cactus is a fruit that has high oxidation properties. At the moment, Naishamu only comes in one shade, but the brand is hoping to grow its portfolio as it continues to learn what the plant can do. The wine is not blended with anything else. The firm also make other products from the cactus plant, including jams, juices and cosmetic oils. You are advised to pair this dry red wine with meat, cheeses and any desserts. You can purchase Naishamu products at the Laikipia Permaculture Centre in Kariunga village, which is about 17 kilometres from Nanyuki town. It is still a small processing unit, but the business is working on expansion. Its ultimate vision is to make the brand a household name both locally and abroad.

Florence ole Larpei displays a range of products processed from the opuntia cactus fruit. [Mose Sammy, Standard]

Set in a serene environment at the waterfront Mall in Karen, Saab Bakery & Café offers an elegant space with a relaxing, modern ambience to chillax and unwind.

It’s the IT spot to enjoy a great cup of coffee and you can always pair it up with our tantalizing freshly baked pastries. Serving the best of Kenyan coffee freshly brewed as you wait, whilst you are taking in the aroma and enjoying the view. With that unique ambience we offer, you can indulge your taste buds with no apologies in our daily freshly baked pastries and breads. We use only the best quality of ingredients with no preservatives for our baked pastries and breads that we bake on site. We promise you a great baking aroma while you wait for your food. Saab bakery & café offers a wide variety of food options from breakfast to pastas, pizzas to grilled steaks! Our menu has been carefully selected to ensure it suits our clientele. Adding a touch of Eastern, Asian and Western cuisines. Our kids’ corner menu is specially designed for our young customers, because we love kids! The atmosphere in a restaurant is as important as customer service and Saab Bakery & Café is at the forefront when it come to this. We are passionate about what we do. Our service personnel always ensure they give genuine attention to our customers and we pair it up with that Unique great ambience plus don’t forget the mouthwatering food and pastries!

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