Travelog October Issue: Let's dink to that

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Travel JIONEE KENYA!

Let’s

drink to that

NOT FOR SALE

OCTOBER 2019

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eDItOR’s WORD

Toast to our produce cOnnOIsseuR pg 30

Wellness Watch Pg 19

abROaD

Pg 23

Isn’t it ironic that Kenya grows quality avocado, coffee, macadamia and tea yet we consume the lowest quality of these products? We also rear high-grade livestock and our pigs produce some of the tastiest pork products. You can attest to this if you have ever sat at a breakfast table on some hotels in Europe whose meat cuts are as bland as cardboard. Our wood carvings are unparalleled but few decorate their homes with this art. The gemstones mined in Taita Taveta would be stunning around Wanjiku’s neck yet she suffers a rash from wearing fake gold chains. Mournful still, our parks host the most diverse animals and birds, our seas some of the most incredible marine animals, yet many Kenyans will die before spotting an aadvark, wild dog or humpback whale. If telling apart a kite and a hawk was added as a category during a quiz night competition, I reckon

few would keep up. This is in spite of the fascinating Birds of East Africa exhibition gallery at Nairobi Museum boasting over 900 stuffed specimen. My recent trip to the wine lands in Cape Town was an eye-opener. While wine is synonymous with the French, South Africa has gone on to become the biggest wine producer. It’s inspiring to learn that they consume the best and export the surplus. Third-rate wines that our bars force down our throats at exorbitant prices are non-existant here. One of their biggest export is music, so don’t be surprised to find Black Coffee performing in Ibiza. Our sixth edition thus hopes to trigger an interest in ‘Kenyanness’ and the need to appreciate our own. We offer basic yet enlightening insights on the background of tea culture, coffee brewing as well as an abundance of travel tales worth the month.

Thorn Mulli

buDget bReaks Pg 28-29 editor in chief: Ochieng Rapuro group executive editor and head of news: Kipkoech Tanui editor: Thorn Mulli suB-editor: Sandra Mulluka revise editor: Peter Ndoria editor, partnerships and projects: Andrew Kipkemboi Manager print creative: Dan Weloba creative designers: Virginia Borura , Lydia Amusolo, Benson Gathemia, Liz Karanja, Tracy Bett contriButors: Gardy

Chacha, Jayne Rose Gacheri, Jimmy Mwangi, Lubnar Abdulhalim, Nadine Hosny, photographY: David Gichuru, Elvis Ogina, Njiru Rukenya

Registered at the GPO as a newspaper. The Standard is printed and published by the proprietors the standard group pLc email: travelog@standardmedia.co.ke follow us on instagram: @TravelLogKe twitter: @TravelLogKe1 facebook: Travel Log KE take a selfie with the october issue for a chance to win two nights. for two. at the Lake elementaita Mountain Lodge. the winner will be announced in the november issue.

antOnette kamene, septembeR WInneR Of faIRmOnt mOunt kenya safaRI club gIft vOucheR


3 [David Gichuru]

WhiTE CaP KEnya inTErnaTionaL PoLo ChamPionShiPS

hansi Bruins of samurai and casimir gross of white cap team tussle for the ball during the white cap Kenya international polo championships. Gogo Simo band saxophonist Noah Saha and pianist James Jozee at the White Cap Kenya International Polo Championships.

Media personality Jeff Koinange and and blogger Xtian Dela at the event.

White Cap brand ambassadors with polo sport player Ben Stonewigg who was voted Most Valuable Player

Angela Cheror (left), Deepak Singh and Anjlee Gadvi looking faultless at the event.

2019 ECO WARRIOR AWARDS

Natalie Achieng of Tourism Fund and Nyawira Muraguri of PMS Group had the warmest smiles of the evening.

Overall winner, Anjela Njehia of Let’s Go Travel Uniglobe

Susan Ongalo, Kenya Tourism Federation CEO, Alphonse Kioko, Chairman, Tourism Fund and Grace Nderitu, Ecotourism Kenya CEO

KICC boss, Nana Gecaga, clearly loves this magazine

Ministry of Tourism Cabinet Secretary Najib Balala with Eco Warriors award winners at Serena Hotel

Patricia wahome, Becky Wanjau and Sonam Shah of Sunworld Safaris


4 SPLENDID feature Follow us on Instagram @travelLogKe Twitter: @travelLogKe1 Facebook: travel Log Ke

Please beer with us... A step-by-step journey with the experts who brew the golden drink from grass to glass By Peter Ndoria

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eer is the third most popular drink after water and tea, and perhaps unique because of the centuries-old art and science that goes into brewing and consuming of the beverage. The combination of cereal grain, water, yeast and more recently, hops, continues to entertain and intrigue man since time immemorial. The beer begins its journey in the vast barley and sorghum fields across the southern Rift Valley and other regions in Kenya, with farmers who deliver grain to the brewery. According to Maitha Malii, the manufacturing leader in charge of Brewing and Excellence at Kenya Breweries, this symbiotic partnership has been fostered for years and the brewer collects grain for storage and cleaning. The grain in then taken through the process of malting where it is stored in water long enough to germinate and sprout before it is put in a kiln. This process, called malting, results in a product that has simpler sugars, amino acids and some flavours. After malting, the next process is milling where the grain in ground into a flour and mashed based on the different outcomes the brewer desires. The result is a porridge-like product (popularly known in the streets as machicha). While this by-product is healthy fodder for a dairy farmer, to the brewer it is spent grain. Of interest, instead, is the nutrient-rich liquid known as wort that

is decanted. The wort is boiled and hops are added at high temperature. If you like the aroma of your favourite tipple and enjoy that bitter tinge it goes down with, then you probably have the hops to thank for that. This aromatic mix is then allowed to cool and aerate before the process of fermentation begins with the introduction of yeast and allowed to rest for a couple of days. The number of days for fermentation varies with the desired outcome as the yeast that breaks down the wort into an alcoholic beverage: beer. Beer is then cooled down to remove the yeast; another by-product that is given to farmers to be re-used. The drink is the matured at sub-zero temperatures, filtered to become clear before it is carbonated and packaged in bottles, cans and kegs. Better with age An ordinary beer is packaged to have a shelf life of around six to 12 months. “Beer, unlike wine, doesn’t get better with age,” Malii advises. Simple as the process sounds, there is a science and craftsmanship that goes into landing your favourite pint on the table. “That’s the great thing around a beer. I mean, it’s so exciting; if you just think about the yeast and the whole science behind it; if you change the temperature you get a different flavour profile, if you change the pressure you get a different flavour profile. So brewing is a real craft, fantastic craftsmanship, and I love the mix between craft and science,” Jasmine Winterer from the House of Guinness explains.


SPEcIaL feature

“Micro-breweries are the future” Moses Orori Onuong’a starts his day by tasting different types of beer, ranging from coffee ales to a stout called ‘Chez Guerilla’. Though an occasional drinker who speaks firmly against irresponsible drinking, this morning ritual is part of his job as the person in charge of quality assurance at Bateleur Brewery, one of many thriving micro-breweries in a growing beer culture in Kenya. His job entails ensuring that all the flavours at their outlet are up to the required standards. If he finds any problem with the flavour or even how the beers are stored in the cold room, he quickly fixes, or where needs be, alerts the brewery at Maii Mahiu. We are at the Sina Shaka Tap Room at The Village Market with a paddle that has 12 different flavours – what I learn from this seasoned bartender is called a beer flight, which allows someone to sample the different beers. Bateleur Brewery is a leading craft beer brewery in Kenya with the dozen drinks representing their variety for discerning customers.

These include the double Indian pale ale ‘KuDeTa’, the wheat beer ‘Tandala’ and flavoured varieties like the mango-flavoured ‘Fruit Fly’ and the coffee ale, ‘Verreaux’. They also have a Pilsen, a pale lager named after a Czech city, called ‘Dire Straits’. Craft beers are becoming popular in Kenya with several outlets now offering this delicacy for an increasing number of consumers. Some of the outlets include The Tribe, which offers The Kraft beer, Nyama Mama and Brew Bistro. Moses believes this is the future of beer consumption in Kenya as the drinker becomes more choosy, opting for a quality experience. Craft beers offer that wider variety and encourage a personalised drinking experience as is evident with the flight of beers. Consumers are also taking more to beer cocktails like shandy (a lager mixed with lemonade or Sprite) and mixing lagers with mojitos. “Craft beers tend to be fresh and should be served chilled to maintain that healthy flavour,” Orori adds.

Moses Orori [Brian Joseck]

Oktoberfest is here!

Jasmine Winterer [Brian Joseck]J

More hops, more pop If Ale, Lager and Stout were the three characters in the animated TV series, The Powerpuff Girls, then hops would be the all-important mysterious substance, ‘Chemical X’, which gives them their superpowers. Most beers owe their distinct flavours to hops, without which they would just remain with the malty biscuit-like essence. “There are over 700 different compounds in hops that can impact flavour,” Jasmine Winterer, master brewer from Diageo in Dublin, explains and adds that different hops give different flavours to a beer. Although humans’ use of hops as a bittering agent has been documented from as far back as the last millennium, it thrives in temperate climates and can therefore not grow in the tropics. Jasmine was in the country for the recent entry into the market of Hop House 13, which happened on September 27. The lager is unique because it is double-hopped, once in the kettle at the grist stage and again in the whirlpool, to give it more taste and character. Now brewed in Kenya, the first African country to make the beer, Hop House 13 refers to the thirteenth hop house in the House of Guinness, “At the time when the brewery was built, it obviously grew and at some point we had 13 buildings which have been hop stores but we called them hop houses because all the hop we had to add to Guinness had to be stored,” she explains. Although technology has changed greatly and the hop houses are no longer in use, the buildings still stand.

Oktoberfest is the largest Volksfest (beer festival and travelling funfair) in the world. Each year the festivals begin in September and end on the first Sunday of October. Held in Munich, Germany, more than 6 million people from around the world attend the event every year. At noon, a 12-gun salute is followed by the tapping of the first keg of Oktoberfest beer by the mayor of Munich with the proclamation “O’zapft is!” (“It’s tapped!”). The Mayor then gives the first litre of beer to the Minister-President of the State of Bavaria. This is the signal for the other restaurateurs to start serving beer. Other cities all over the world started holding Oktoberfest after the original Munich event and Nairobi has not been left behind in the festivities. Recently, Tusker kicked off the OktobaBeer Festival which will run on October 5 and 6 at Ngong Racecourse. The Big Five Breweries is offering a 20 per cent discount on all Rent-A-Kegs for the entire month of October. Restaurants are also serving fresh brews. Brew Bistro and Lounge are offering a range of craft beer including the famous Big 5 (Simpils, Kifabock, Temstout, Chuikolsch, and Nyatipa) and beer cocktails are also on offer. Hilton Hotel, Artcaffe Karen Crossroads, Temiras, Que Pasa Bar & Bistro, Monikos, Capital Club among many other outlets are offering beer and food specials over the month of October.


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THEULTIMATEESCAPE Follow us on Instagram @TravelLogKe Twitter: @TravelLogKe1 Facebook: Travel Log KE

Holidaying at Vipingo Ridge

ourtesy]

By Travelog Writer travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

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t is rare for me to drift off in the middle of the day. Recently, the concept of napping has been something of a pipedream. If it is not the daily grind of life’s routine keeping me on my feet -the persistent nudge to clear my inbox, finish that chore or run those errands- it is my children demanding my immediate and full attention. Today, however, I find myself relaxing under palm trees by a pool on a hot afternoon. My children have gone off for an hour’s pony ride, my husband is playing golf, and I am soaking up a luxurious combination of sunshine, peace and tranquillity. Lounging on a sunbed on this beautiful estate high above the Indian Ocean, I have not felt this chilled out in a long time. I am on Cloud Nine and the views from up here are spectacular! Before now, my family had not considered Vipingo Ridge as a holiday destination. In the past we’d followed the droves of holidaymakers to the south coast. It was time for a change. Some friends recommended Vipingo after they’d spent their Christmas holidays here and raved about it. Previously I had only heard of Vipingo Ridge through rumours that described

the place as an exclusive club –the home of HNWIs and a playground for Kenya’s elite. I was intrigued to hear my friends talk of family hikes through a mango forest, cycling along nature trails, a dhow trip and a seafood dinner on the beach. After a digital trip through their website, I decided to book in for six nights before the kids started term and real life would begin again. Whilst we had been presented with the affordable option to take the SGR and be picked at Mariakani, we decided to fly in with Safarilink from Nairobi’s Wilson Airport. We conveniently landed at the airstrip right in the middle of the expansive estate where we were met by Samuel, a jolly driver with a branded minivan. As we drove through the estate, we passed home upon home that would not look out of place on MTV’s Cribs – each with its own character and uninterrupted view. The guards patrolling the grounds gave us a salute. It was immediately clear that security is taken very seriously here. We caught glimpses of the renowned golf course and workers tending the landscape. Just as security is priority, maintenance of the grounds is seemingly as important, and the proof is in the perfectly manicured gardens and fairways. My husband, who is very passionate about golf, proudly informed me that this course is the only PGA accredited course

[Photo/Courtesy]

Set on 2,500 acres of manicured gardens, Vipingo Ridge is a secure gated community with panoramic views from the Indian Ocean to the east and Chodari Hills to the west. This unique destination with Africa’s only PGA-accredited golf course is the perfect setting for golf lovers, offering exceptional real estate opportunities or rentals for shorter stays.


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THEULTIMATEESCAPE

in Africa. It does sound impressive. The reception for guests is in Vipingo Ridge’s Clubhouse, a Moorishinspired building with a grand atrium and views across the golf course to the Indian Ocean beyond. As we arrived, players were migrating in and out, exchanging familiar greetings. I overheard a conversation between two residents excitedly discussing their time slots for an upcoming Jaguar and Land Rover event. It was late in the afternoon on a Saturday and rounds of golf were coming to an end, drinks were being ordered and weekends enjoyed so the mood was jovial and infectious too. Back in the van, we drove to our accommodation -a line of terraced villas designed to match the Clubhouse. We quickly realised we could’ve walked -a short amble past the practice greens. Stepping through heavy Lamu doors, we were instantly delighted with our villa. With two spacious en-suite bedrooms, a large living room and open plan kitchen, the space is airy, the décor modern and fresh. There is high speed WiFi and a flat-screen television. Beyond the living room, a

wide veranda opens out on to the gardens and a large shared pool down a grassy slope. The glint of the ocean can be seen in the distance, constantly reminding us that we are, in fact, on the Kenyan coast. The pièce de resistance is the roof terrace complete with plunge pool and even bigger views. We were told at reception that not all villas have a rooftop pool so we definitely lucked out. There is something incredibly indulgent about this hidden gem that’s secretive, so glamourous. On our first night, we had a quick evening dip before showering and heading back to the Clubhouse for a hearty dinner of prawn masala -a true family favourite. Six days at Vipingo Ridge might seem a lot but they have soon disappeared in a kaleidoscope of activity, meals and seaside living. Each day we have discovered something new -from learning Taekwondo to exploring the Kuruwitu Marine Conservancy. The Sundowner has been our regular spot where my husband and I can take time out while the kids play table tennis, clamber on the jungle gym, swim and make their way through the pizza menu. When the sun dips and cools, we’ve been com-

“FYI Vipingo Ridge is hosting the inaugural Ladies European Tour event in East Africa. Up to 90 professional lady golfers are travelling here to compete in a “Tournament of Champions” during the first week of December.” peting in a family game of doubles tennis on electric blue courts. We’ve also spent a couple of days down at the Beach Club, setting up camp on kanga cushions splayed over swing seats. The beach at Vipingo is like going back in time to the coast of my childhood. No overbearing beachfront hotels, less people, the local community coming down to play and swim but not to hassle, no one selling us anything. It is pure uninterrupted bliss. The seafood we had for lunch was sublime -served on wooden boards, packed with juicy flavour and fresher than the breeze. Full of the simplest pleasures, this is a Beach Club stripped back and enjoyed. We have hung out, we’ve snorkelled and played boules in the sand.

As we near the end of our stay, I am already nostalgic for an unforgettable holiday spent among this private community -we could not have felt more welcome. My husband managed to squeeze in three rounds of golf on what he deemed to be the best course in the country (an impressive accolade considering how much he travels for golf). My children have run, swum, dived, fished, played, biked, hiked, explored and more. They even had a go at golf themselves. We didn’t turn the TV on once. On my part, I’ve relished the chance to splurge on various treatments at the spa located in the Links – an enclosed residential area on the Ridge. Upon request, I even took a look around the Links showhome, a beautiful space on the footprints of the Baobab Course, getting carried away in my imaginings of what life would be like spent here. One day… During our time at Vipingo Ridge, we found out that anyone can come for the day and use the facilities -guests simply sign in at the gate and pay Sh1,000 which is fully redeemable against all food and drink on site. What an enviable resource for people living in the area – it must make planning weekends with the kids a joy. For us, living further afield, we are boarding our flight soon so we must settle on taking home our Vipingo memories and making the promise to be back very soon. Special day packages for half term are available. For more information, visit www.vipingoridge. com/school-holidays. The family stayed at Vipingo Ridge’s Golf Villas. Please contact reservations@vipingoridge.com for booking enquiries.

Travelog readers will get 7% off when booking flights to Vipingo in October with Safarilink online using discount code “VIPINGO”.


Take your place among this secure gated community and live, laugh and play in the company of friends.

COME FOR A DAY. STAY FOR A LIFETIME.

VIPINGORIDGE.COM


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How Kenyan Tea Culture Grew in England Twinings, a factory in the UK, fuses various teas with Kenyan varieties to come up with top quality blends By Peter Muiruri travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

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orty kilometres north of the city of Southampton, UK, lies a small settlement known as Andover. In a country with big cities, it is easy to overlook Andover. That was until I saw the Kenyan flag fluttering in front of a building. My curiosity was aroused since this was not a foreign missions office. Welcome to Twinings, the UK factory that blends much of the tea consumed in England. Here, I met Mike Gale, one of the tea blenders, who shared the strong Kenyan connection. Kenyan tea, he said, is a key ingredient in the blending process at the factory. High mineral content True to his word, Kenya’s presence in the factory was there for the world to see as one comes across bags of tea from key factories in Kericho, Tinderet, and Nandi. Even good old Ketepa was represented. I was still eager to know exactly why our tea, an item that some of us may take for granted, is so dear to the UK population. Kenya’s highlands with the red soils are the perfect platforms for tea propagation. The high altitude contains soils with high mineral con-

Mike Gale shows us how tea tasting is done. [Courtesy]

tent that produces higher antioxidant content than teas grown in lower elevations. These conditions make Kenyan tea a key ingredient in the blending teas from other parts of the world. “Kenyan tea has lots of colour that gives strength and a boost to many blends. And unlike other seasonal tea producing countries, Kenya’s mild weather is conducive to tea growing all year round,” Mike explained. There is yet another reason why our tea is a world-beater. Kenya has so far resisted the urge to use machines to harvest tea as may be the case in some countries. This, according to Mike is a boon for tea lovers. “Hand plucking ensures that only the required two leaves and a bud are harvested.” Create new blend Interestingly, Kenya’s climatic conditions, topography and the factory processes influence the flavour and appearance of tea, knowledge that is vital in the blending process. Kenyan tea has been combined with tea from Assam, India and Sri Lanka to create a new blend used to make the over 35 million cups of tea consumed annually aboard British Airways flights around the world. By the way, did you know that Kenyan tea is among the few teas that tastes the same on the ground and in the skies? Let me explain. To make a good cup of tea, boil water at 100 degrees. However, due to altitude, reduced air pressure and humidity, water aboard an aircraft boils at 89 degrees. This reduces your taste by 30 per cent. Therefore, the airlines wanted a blend of tea that would taste as good at 35,000 feet

as it does on the ground. Talking of tea tasting, I got a chance to observe what tea tasters do on a typical day – sampling different blends. Neatly arranged on a table were different blends with corresponding nametags. In what some of you might describe as bad table manners, Mike used a tablespoon and noisily slurped the tea into his mouth, going from cup to cup and describing in detail the characteristics of each blend. Contrary to what many think 90 per cent of tea flavour can be perceived through smell. A small organ behind the back of your eyes and nose known as the olfactory gland has fine hairs on its surface that capture molecules of what a tea taster smells. That is why these tea tasters loudly slurp so that both the tea and the oxygen can spread evenly through all the taste buds for a perfect profile. The tea is then spat back in a sink before moving on to the next flavour. Well, I tried to taste the “professional way” in vain as my taste buds got con-

fused after the third slurp. After all, it just tasted like tea to me. In England though, sipping is believing. Have you ever wondered...? How did the Brits come to be heavy tea drinkers even though they don’t grow tea? Actually, coffee, gin and ale were their choice drinks before Thomas Twining turned tea into a national drink over 300 years ago. Tired of drinking ale, Thomas started serving tea in his coffee shop in London. His newfound love for the beverage brought conflict from bar owners who even lobbied for tax increases on tea imports. Undeterred, Thomas soldiered on winning more converts from the working class. Tea is more than a drink but a way of life and a tradition. From the commoner to the queen, this British habit shows no signs of tapering. In fact, it was Queen Victoria who decreed that Twinings be the official supplier of tea to the monarchy, a tradition that continues to date.


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special feature By Ivy Waridi Old age tradition that dates back to 1880s was mainly a pasttime for upper class Britons [Courtesy]

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aking tea is something most of us are accustomed to at the comfort of our homes but sipping it in an exclusive surrounding is a simple yet memorable treat. High tea accompanied with delicate cakes, buttery scones and the occasional glass of bubbly, is an English tradition that dates back to the early 19th century. It was a light meal taken between lunch and dinner, while guests, who were ideally elite members of the society, sat at high tables and stools. High or Afternoon tea, involving delicate cakes, buttery scones and the occasional glass of bubbly, is an English tradition dating back to the early 19th century. During this period it was normal for people to take only two main meals a day breakfast, and dinner at around 8 p.m. During the 1880’s upper-class and society women would change into long gowns, gloves, and hats for their afternoon tea. The practice then moved from bedrooms to the drawing rooms after it had gained traction. It then became fashionable to sip tea and nibble sandwiches between 3 and 4 p.m. As the high tea became more popular it was added as an important event on social calendars of upper echelon people. Couples had tea before attending the theatre, or playing cards. It is believed that John Montagu, the Fourth Earl of Sandwich, came up with the idea of placing meat and other fillings between two slices of bread. And thus, the idea of a High Tea sandwich was born. The name high tea was derived from the height of the tables on which the tea was served.

High tea fit for royals Kui Kamau (from left) Connie Aluoch and Cathy Kariuki during a past Fashion HighTea at the Zen Gardens, Nairobi [Elvis Ogina]

The Lord Erroll

[Courtesy]

Enjoying high tea at East Africa’s premier French and gourmet restaurant should be on your bucket list. Four o’clock tea has been part of our culture but high tea heightens that experience. Your afternoon tea will be served at the alfresco seating lounge known as Idina West Terrace, where you can enjoy scenic views of Diana Hay Gardens. This is the place where you can be intoxicated by the fragrance steam of a cup of tea, sip of that bubbly or the different kinds of pastries. Teh Lord Eroll have an extensive afternoon tea menu and you can enjoy a choice of unlimited black or white tea and unlimited mixed tea. It is served on a three tier cake stand with savory treats, sweet desserts and tea scones that include plain scones and scones with raisins. The scones are accompanied with clotted cream and strawberry jams. Prices of the high tea starts from Sh4,000 for two with a glass of prosecco going for Sh2,500 per person, served daily from 3-6 pm. Reservations are highly recommended.


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Zen Garden Zen Garden recently hosted the fifth annual fashion High Tea event celebrating Haute Couture in Kenya. In true British fashion people dressed up for this event. If you choose to make high tea part of your ritual then this is a good place to start. Their high tea menu is priced at Sh2, 000 per person and your minimum party should include six people. It is served in two tiers with the top tier having savory items such as the whole crusted mushrooms, mini garden calzones, cheese and chutney sandwiches, mini chicken pies and crispy chicken baos. The bottom tier has sweet desserts such as the Zen special honeycomb cakes chocolate & raspberry macaroons, forest berry tarts and gelato cones. You have the choice of picking tea or coffee. The Zen Garden high tea menu is flexible and their team is available to discuss all dietary requirements for your guests. Muriel Barbery states that when tea becomes a ritual it takes its place at the heart of our ability to see greatness in small things. High tea in Nairobi allows you to fully appreciate the rich tea tradition that has now become part of our culture.

[Courtesy]

special feature Follow us on instagram @TravelLogKe Twitter: @TravelLogKe1 Facebook: Travel Log KE

Hemingways Nairobi Fairmont The Norfolk High tea at the Norfolk was introduced in 1904. Since then the tradition has grown to cater to the changing times and accommodate new traditions. This is the place where you can enjoy one of the finest afternoon teas you’ll ever set your eyes on. You will enjoy your high tea at the elegantly and luxuriously furnished “T” Lounge. It is served on a tiered tray with the finger food which is divided into savoury and sweet presented at the centre of the table. Be ready to devour ham and cheese, grilled vegetables, smoked salmon and egg, and tomato sandwich. The sweet pastries include macaroons, strawberry tarts, and a signature dessert for the Norfolk, mocha éclairs, cookies and opera cake, and a side tray with their signature passion clotted cream for your scones as well as a variety of jams. The rich tea selection completes your Fairmont the Norfolk high tea experience. The high tea comes in three options, the Savoy style, Mombasa high tea and the classic Norfolk high tea. The price ranges between Sh4,000 to Sh5,500 per couple depending on the option selected and is served daily from 2:30-5: 00 pm, with reservations highly recommended. The suggested dress code is smart casual.

Although the aristocrats of 19th century dressed up for high tea, there is no formal dress code for high tea at the Hemingways; however, the common trend is for you to dress up. High tea at Hemingways serves as a pause and reflect moment as you savour in the serenity. You can enjoy your tea on the terrace overlooking Ngong Hills or outside overlooking the well-manicured garden. Hemingways have continued to demystify the notion that high tea is for the elite. High tea was ideally meant for couples but in this contemporary world, Hemingways Nairobi offers high tea to pre-wedding and wedding celebrations as well as baby showers, and can cater to a group of up to 40. Also offered are the traditional high tea favourites, including a range of teas served with finger sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and jam, all served on tiered cake stands. The menu offers a range of delicate and imaginative pastries and signature cakes that are handcrafted each morning and are as delicious as they are beautiful. A glass of prosecco or champagne can be added to make your experience extra special. The price for this luxury affair that runs from 3-5pm daily is just Sh2,500 which per serving of up to two people, with an additional Sh900 for a glass of prosecco or Sh4,500 for a bottle. Reservations are highly recommended.

[David Gichuru]


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Desert dash at the Maralal camel derby

I went there

30th edition of the yearly cultural event aims to foster peace among pastoralists

By Caroline Chebet travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

A

rich ethnic montage, a tableau of native cultures entwined by a camel race. This, aptly sums up the annual Maralal International Camel Derby. This year’s thrills of the 30th edition of the yearly derby went down in Yare area in Samburu West Subcounty attracting camel racers and enthusiasts alike to converge for one of country’s unique cultural sports. “It is not only about the camels, it is about us, the pastoral communities coming together to promote peace, participate in traditional games and re-awaken our cultures,” Lemain Lenebalaa, one of the camel riders. Camels are an important part of life in the region’s pastoralist community, as a mode of transport and

Samburu Cultural dancers perfoming during the event.

also for food. The camel derby, as its history goes, is a celebration of the local way of life, celebration of the king of the desert – the camel – and a platform to foster peace. From wooing cultural enthusiasts, to bringing on board adventures of the wild to capping it with traditional ceremonies, this year’s derby brought to life the mix of rich nomadic and cultural adventures of the wild Rift. The derby, is key in bringing together Turkana, Samburu, Somali, Rendile and Pokot communities, also nurturing peace among them. This, is often portrayed by the rich cultural activities bringing the communities together during the three-day event, with each of the communities build-

Samburu Cultural Dancers at Yale Ground.

ing a traditional hut within the arena to signify their presence and participation in peace-building event. Here, traditional ceremonies including a key wedding to tie the event, arts and crafts to compliment it and beaded jewellery to define the cultural fete, pop colours of the derby. And even as the races take place, old men and women drawn from the communities engage in traditional games, exchanging knowledge on traditional medicine, singing and dancing even as ladies get a chance to spruce themselves up and step out to pride in traditional attire. Among famous games that dominate bring together rival communities to participate in is Ntotoi, a traditional game that resembles chess. In the game, old men are drawn

Samburu Governor Moses Lenolkulal (right) playing

Par Ma


13 I went there Follow us on Instagram @TravelLogKe Twitter: @TravelLogKe1 Facebook: Travel Log KE

l y

[Harun Wathari]

“I often come here to play Ntotoi every year. This game bonds the communities and act as a platform for mediation talks. Competitors from different communities participate and the winner is crowned at the end of the event, just like the camel racers,” William Lekwale said. Players of Ntotoi, are majorly old men, who have over the years preserved the culture, intrigues of the game which they say, is addictive and can keep competitors till late in to the night. During the event, a number of activities including cycle racing and traditional games often take place. As the intrigues of the country’s finest camels unravel, competitors race in different categories-the amateurs and the professional racers.

rticipants competing at the 30th edition of aralal Camel Derby.

“Camels generally fear large gatherings and noise and drama is often experienced at the starting point. Once they set off to less-busy places, they are comfortable enough to run,” Samburu Trade, Tourism and Cooperatives Executive Peter Leshakwet. But before the camel racing takes off, cycling is often undertaken the day before to set the pace for the two days when camels will command attention in the town. The cycle race attracts dedicated professionals on world class bikes, as well as local amateurs and those who are physically challenged. And when the day dawns on camels to hobble along, stagger, fall while rising on their feet to prove their might, it is usually ecstatic. From being goaded to singly stand in a file at the starting line, to the traditional songs and dances from enthusiasts that line up to cheer the spirits of the race, and also build up momentum for the beasts that unites them. And while some competitors travel from far, taking almost two weeks on the road to the legendary Maralal Derby, others have since developed a liking, tossing themselves in to the competition that doubles as one of the revenue-earners in the County. “I often compete in the elite category on a yearly basis. I have won the race thrice and this year, I emerged third this year. I am from Rendille community and often travel for eight days with my camels to Maralal; to compete,” Samuel Lewano, one of the competitors said. Lewano, was one of the 26 competitors this year, among the 11 entrants in to the elite category. Amateur racers attracted 15 entries. And when the whistle goes off, the thrills of camel racing awaken

the confusion that makes the derby worthwhile. With some totally stumbling, others aptly lying down and others trudging along with the cheers that seem to mar their concentration. “Camels generally fear large gatherings and noise and the drama is often experienced at the starting point. Once they set off to less-busy places, they are comfortable enough to run,” Samburu Trade, Tourism and Cooperatives Executive Peter Leshakwet said. Intrigues of competitors tapping, peacefully negotiating and some shoving their camels in a bid to top the rest paints the tedious negotiation skills of handling a camel, more

Samburu Governor Moses Lenolkulal (in white shirt) flagging off the derby.

so in the amateur racers. Watching the professional racers head off, breaking free and hobbling along is more intriguing even as cheering supporters line up the stretch, in a bid to keep up the spirits. But unlike the elite racers, amateur racers often lose control of their over-excited camels which scatter around in different directions whenever a whistle goes off. To some, it is no mean feat handling a camel, to some, growing up with camels gave them the guts to get in to the race. “I train my camel just a day before. I used to see my cousins ride on camels and I first participated in the Camel Derby when I was eleven. This year, I decided to give it a try,” Vanila Lesooni, 15, said. Lesooni, who was the youngest participant, would emerge top in the ladies among the amateur category, bagging Sh10,000 for her school fees. The race has since shot in to international limelight, attracting competitors from across the world with racers determined to test the stamina and camel-riding skills, both pro and beginner.

Camels racing during the Liwa 2019 Moreeb Dune Festival in Liwa desert, 250 kilometres west of the Gulf Emirate of Abu Dhabi. The festival, held on January 1, which attracts participants from around the Gulf region, is aimed at promoting the country’s folklore. [KARIM SAHIB/AFP]


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Around the Western circuit

take the trip Follow us on Instagram @travelLogke twitter: @travelLogke1 Facebook: travel Log ke

Towering over the west of Kenya is Mt Elgon, on the Kenya-Uganda border. Measuring about 4, 200m, it is among the top ten highest mountains in Africa.

Fishermen in a dhow on Lake Victoria [andrew Nightingale]

By Tamara Britten travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

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caling up the mountain is quite a challenge. You’ll need strong boots, wind protective jacket and – when nearing the peak – a strong head: the thin air and high altitude can you dizzy. The breathtaking views, however, more than justify the climb. During the ascent, you pass through four distinct strata which are different in appearance, mood and smells as if you’re shuttling between four different planets. The foothills are swathed in lush montane forests with hundreds of species including orchids, ferns and lovely straggling lianas. Climbing onwards, you reach the mixed bamboo and Podocarpus trees. You’ll be glad you have your jacket on: these are striking but scratchy vegetation. As you keep going and you’ll emerge into the layer of bright flowers; but for the chill in the air you might think you were in sunny summer meadows. Approaching the peak, you reach

Kericho water lilies [andrew Nightingale] the bleak moorland zone; with the highest number of endemic species on the mountain, this is where you’ll see alien-looking giant lobelia and giant groundsel. The summit is a plateau on which it would be a crime not to pop open a celebratory Tusker despite the chill in the air. From this point, land spools downwards and views

spill out in all directions. While on the mountain, watch out for marauding elephants, famed for using their tusks to dig salt from the network of caves. Mt Elgon’s elephants are capricious and unpredictable. While other game including buffalo, duiker, bushbuck and waterbuck live here, you’re more likely to see

monkeys plunging from tree to tree. The road takes you back to Kitale, where you can stop for a snack while pondering whether to head north or south. To the north lies Saiwa Swamp, the Marich Pass and the Cherangani Hills. Saiwa Swamp was created to protect the sitatunga, a rare web-footed ante-


15 The mystic Mt Elgon [Courtesy]

take the trip you’re here, browse the local artefacts at the Art Market, eat grilled fish at Dunga Beach, and watch the sunset from Hippo Point, then dance the night away in Kisumu. The lake that stretches to the horizon is one of Africa’s Great Lakes. Not only is Lake Victoria the largest lake in Africa, it is also the largest tropical lake in the world and the second largest freshwater lake in the world. You can enjoy scenic views of the lake from one of the resorts along its shores, or hop on a boat and cruise its waters, watching for wallowing hippos and marauding Nile crocodiles. Be sure to pause and see the numerous birds, turtles and monitor lizards.

Where to stay – our pick of the best Mt Elgon They may not be glamourous, but the KWS Bandas are well maintained, well run and well located. Choose between Koitoboss Guest House at Chorlim Gate, and Kapkuro Bandas just 1km inside the park. Saiwa Swamp National Park Tree Top House, operated by KWS, is a little log cabin with a balcony overlooking the forest. Cherangani Hills The views from Mt Mtelo Cottages and Campsite have to be seen to be believed. Lie back in a hammock and gaze into the valleys, or don your boots and head for the peaks. Kakamega Built by a saw miller in 1948, Rondo Retreat is a charming homestead and cottages set in rolling gardens of lawns, flowers, streams and fishponds. KWS operates Isukuti Houses at the park HQ, and Udo Bandas inside the forest. KEEP operates the Isecheno Bandas and Campsite at the KEEP HQ in the south of the forest. All bandas are basic but well-maintained. Nandi Hills The Nandi Bears Club was named for the myth of the Nandi Bear who stood 1m high, had a heavy mane and skulked from the forest to decapitate villagers. Once a private members’ club, the rooms are now open to all. Kisumu With lovely views of the lake and a collection of pretty cottages, Kiboko Bay is our favourite place to

stay in the area. In town, there are so many hotels it’s hard to choose one, but our pick of the best would have to include the imposing Imperial Hotel, the new Acacia Premier, The Duke of Breeze for its rooftop bar, Roan Rooftop for good vibes and rooftop bar, and Dunga Hill for frequent buzzing parties. Lake Victoria Rusinga Island Lodge and Mfangano Island Camp are located on islands of the same names. Both offer luxurious accommodation, boat trips, bird watching and a bunch of water sports. Kweisos House First owned by Olga Watson, of Olga in Africa, Kweisos is a 1900s farmhouse. The house is taken exclusively and its 3000-acre estate offers horse riding, bird watching, fishing and swimming. Kericho The Tea Hotel, while gently aging, retains its charm; with chintz curtains, flowery wallpaper, log fires and well-stocked bar this is the place to stay if you want to wallow in ye olde days.

lope found – as you might expect – in damp and swampy vegetation, while the Marich Pass and Cherangani Hills offer trekking, climbing and spectacular views. However, on this trip we’re heading south to the Kakamega Rainforest. Dark earthy scent The sprawling tropical rainforest that once swathed much of Central Africa has been so ravaged that the forest of Kakamega is its only remaining trace. Here you’ll find a tangle of trees and vines, and dense wet air that lingers on your skin with a dank earthy scent. Light drips through the foliage, falling on orchids clinging to towering trunks and roots peeking from wet earth. The proliferation of species found here includes over 360 birds, over 380 plants and over 490 butterflies. Many are endemic and highly colourful. The forest is also home to numerous small strange species like hammer-headed fruit bats, flying squirrels, forest hogs and civet cats. Spend your time here walking the trails, hiking on the hilltops and breathing in the magical atmosphere. Having left the forest – albeit with regret – we head out south to Kisumu. This exuberant town on the shores of Lake Victoria has a coastal feel, with tropical flowers, balmy weather and sizzling sunsets over the lake. While

The Crying Stone While in the area, take the time to explore the sites around Kisumu. The Kisumu Impala Sanctuary, which is very small it measures less than 1km2, is home to impala, reptiles, birds and hippos. Kit Mikayi, also known as the Crying Stone, appears to be a woman bowed beneath a heavy load; according to local legend, she’s been crying since her husband took a second wife. Should your trip coincide with the Rusinga Cultural Festival, grab your camera and head for the island. Known for early archaeological findings and as the birthplace of respected politician Tom Mboya, the island bursts into life in celebration of the Suba people. With food tastings, sports contests, fashion shows, cultural performances, art exhibitions and literary discussions, the festival is colourful, entertaining and thoughtprovoking. From here, you get to to Kendu Bay and Homa Bay, where you can bask on the lakeshore and enjoy local fish dishes, and Ruma National Park, created to protect the indigenous roan antelope. But on this trip, we’re heading inland to the emerald tea plantations of Kericho. At the centre of the Brooke Bond Tea Corporation, the plantations around Kericho cover more than 110,000 hectares, producing 215 million kg of tea. It is here that we terminate our tour of the west. We recline on our seats, sipping Kenya’s famed tea and gazing over the slopes of what has to be the lushest and most verdant part of the country.

Kisii Ufanisi Resort has a collection of rooms, cottages and suites in a large forested compound. Ruma National Park Oribi Guest House, operated by KWS, is a self-catering cottage near a waterhole at the park HQ. Book your accommodation at www.karibukenya.co.uk

Boat race at the Rusinga Festival [tamara Britten]


16 hidden gems Follow us on Instagram @TravelLogKe Twitter: @TravelLogKe1 Facebook: Travel Log Ke

A road trip through Turkana North

Journey through Kenya‘s largest county and home to world‘s largest alkaline lake By Travelog Writer travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

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hat many people may not know is that Turkana is a unique tourism destination that offers a thrill-seeking adventurer the chance to chart out their own experience; swimming in Lake Turkana, hiking on Lodwar Hill, fishing in the lake or checking out the breeding grounds of the crocodile, flamingos and tilapia in Central Island’s three crater lakes. Are you looking for a cultural experience? With prior arrangement you can visit a traditional village and immerse yourself in the rich cultural heritage of the Turkana people that has withstood the pressures of modernisation. You should consider exploring Turkana North where you are bound to be filled immense fulfilment of connecting with mankind’s ancestor, and experience firsthand intact evidence of Kenya’s colonial past, cultural heritage sites along the road with scenic landscape views.

The vast wilderness, untouched by modern civilisation and the occasional grazing camels, sheep and goats, will surround you with the inner peace and tranquillity that makes you forget, if only for a few hours or a day or two, the humdrum of our busy lives. Landing at the Lodwar airstrip signalled to me that my adventure had just began. Turkana is a vast county – Kenya’s second largest – and home to the world’s largest permanent desert lake and the world’s largest alkaline lake, Lake Turkana. Just three hours away from the Ugandan border through Lodwar, towards South Sudan, Turkana is five hours away with a chance of seeing Kakuma, one of the most famous refugee camps in Sub-Sahara like Dadaab (in Garissa County) and Bidi Bidi (in Northern Uganda). Both of these two routes offer scenic views and a chance to interact with the locals. Don’t be tempted though, to venture here without a four-wheel drive and

preferably with a tour guide head. The round trip adventure starts at Lodwar through the fishing villages of Kalokol, Kataboi, Nachukui, Lowereng’ak onto Lokitaung’, Kachoda, Riokomor, Nareng’ewoi back to Ka-


17 hidden gems

Nariokotome, the site where the Turkana Boy fossil was excavated

Nabuyatom Crater, a geological marvel on Lake Turkana. It is actually a caldera that was formed after a volcano collapsed. [Images: courtesy]

Lowareng’ak - Emulango From the monument, through the fishing village of Lowareng’akto Lokitaung’ through Emulango. This is a 14-km gouge between the Lapur Hills and on its floor River Lokitaung’. When driving through, one gets breath-taking views of unique geographical features and great camping and hiking locations. If pass through, have a picnic under

toboi then back to Lodwar. In addition, one can indulge in sport fishing at the lake or take a boat ride to Northern Island which is mainly a fishing village with scenic views. Along the way, you will have a chance to visit cultural heritage sites; the utmost being Nariokotome where the Turkana Boy was discovered which serves as evidence that this part of Kenya is the home of mankind. Namorutung’a Less than an hour away from Lodwar and not far from Kalokol, the standing stones of Namorutung’a where you are expected to place pebbles on top of them (do not carry the pebbles with you, though). Placing the stones is a sign of respect and acknowledgement that you honour the souls buried there. Lokitoe-Ang’aberu Kataboi is usually associated with macabre killings of women who had gone to collect firewood and were attacked by an enemy tribe. Fortunately, from this dark moment of history, the locals choose

Nariokotome– “Turkana Boy” From Kataboi, you will get to the Nariokotome monument with a replica of the Turkana Boy fossil skeleton which was discovered in 1984 by Kamoya Kimeu (a team member of the world famous paleoanthropologist Dr. Richard Leakey). This 1.5 to 1.6 million year-old fossil put Turkana on the global map as the “origin of mankind”. It is also the county’s slogan. This is the place to take a moment and marvel at one of the world’s greatest archaeological discoveries. At the near-by villages, you can experience cultural explosions of villagers in traditional regalia and visiting their kraals. You can get the opportunity to buy souvenirs. In the same area is the Catholic Mission, dubbed by the locals “Little Spain”, were you can visit to witness agricultural tourism. Accommodation is available as well.

Fact file: To head back to Lodwar, taking a different route through Kachoda, Riokomor to Nareng’ewoi will get you the perfect view of Lake Turkana’s Northern Island. Be sure to stop over at Riokomor to take photos at the beautiful, quaint Catholic church. Before heading to Kataboi then Lodwar. the cool shade of the huge native trees along the way. Lokitaung’ It was founded by the British during the colonial times as the administration centre for northern frontier. Does this town sound familiar? During the fight for Kenya’s independence, Jomo Kenyatta and his coaccused (Paul Ngei, Fred Kubai, Kung’u Karumba, Bildad Kaggia and Achieng’ Oneko) were jailed for almost ten years before relocated to Kapenguria. It is a quiet centre with old colonial building including were Kenyatta was held. One of the most interesting finds in the town is the “forgotten” red phone booth outside the closed post office. A perfect place to take creative photos.

An old Catholic Church on the fringes of Lodwar Town A tourist pours water on the Kataboigraves to honour the dead

to promote peaceful existence amongst them. As a sign of respect to the slain women, you are expected to pick four stones and drop one by one while going round the site – four times as well. Why four, you may ask? It is the number of perfection according to the Turkana. Alternatively, you could choose to pour water around the site instead of dropping the stones.


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The Standard

CONSERVATION watch Follow us on Instagram @TravelLogKe Twitter: @TravelLogKe1 Facebook: Travel Log KE

Saving the northern white rhino from extinction both born in Druv Kralove zoo are the only survivors remaining. The successful procedure, which was a result of years of research, development, adjustment and practice, was a joint effort by the Leibniz institute for zoo and wildlife Research (Leibniz-IZW) Berlin, Avantea, Druv Kralove Zoo, Olpejeta Conservancy and Kenya Wildlife Service. “The techniques and the equipment had to be developed from scratch,” says Prof Thomas Hildebrandt from Leibniz-IZW. The procedure was conducted with a probe, guided by ultrasound, and harvested the immature egg cells (oocytes) from the ovaries of the animals that were under general anaesthesia. The animals had not been immobilized for the last five years. Though it was discovered that the quality of the semen was poor, it was good enough to produce transferrable embryo via Intracytoplasmic sperm injection, an in vitro fertilization procedure whereby a single sperm cell is injected directly into the cytoplasm of an egg.

Since the death of the last male rhino last year, concerted efforts have been made to save the sub-species By Travel Buff travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

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s global efforts to save the Northern white rhino intensified, scientists succeeded in creating two embryos of the nearextinct species. “Today, we achieved an important milestone on a rocky road which allows us to plan the future steps in the rescue program of the northern white rhino,” said Thomas Hildebrandt, a biologist from the Leibniz Institute for Zoo and Wildlife Research in Germany.

The whole experience has been documented in a feature film dubbed KIFARU that premieres in Kenya on October 24, at Trademark Hotel. The documentary, produced by David Hambridge, takes us into the lives of two young, Kenyan recruits who join Ol Pejeta Conservancy’s rhino caretaker unit, their love for the rhino as well as intimately experience the joys and pitfalls of wildlife conservation. In December 2009, four northern white rhinos – two males and two females – were transported to Olpejeta Conservancy from Druv Kralove Zoo in the Czech Republic. The scientists hope to bring the species to a more natural habitat which would encourage them to breed, as their numbers were fast declining.

Although mating attempts were witnessed, no pregnancies were achieved. A health assessment in 2014 reported that the two females could not carry babies due to various health issues. The report indicated that Fatu has a degenerative lesions in her uterus while Najin has weak hind legs that make it hard for her to carry her own calf. Sadly, in October 2014, one of the male rhinos, Suni died of natural causes and the other one, Sudan died last year of old age. Their sperms was cryopreserved in the hope that one day, through assisted reproduction methods, they could pass on their genome to a new generation. The two females, Najin and Fatu, who were

Surrogate mother The eggs are now in Italy for the fertilization process and the resulting embryos will then be frozen until they are transferred into a surrogate mother from the southern white rhino subspecies. According to Tourism Cabinet Secretary, Hon Najib Balala, the concerted efforts to save the last two northern white rhinos should guide resolutions at the Geneva Convention. “The assisted reproductive technique should galvanize the world’s attention to the plight of all rhinos and make us avoid decisions that undermine law enforcement and fuel demand for the rhino horn,” said Hon Balala. Laikipia Governor, Ndiriitu Muriithi expressed his appreciation for this pioneer work that was done in his county. “Conservancies are economic actors in the county as they provide employment and income to many families. Tourism is very much entwined with conservation as visitors come to see the wildlife in the various conservancies,” said Muriithi.


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The Standard

wEllNESS watch Follow us on Instagram @TravelLogKe Twitter: @TravelLogKe1 Facebook: Travel Log KE

Master Li instroducing the Tai Chi discipline to participants of the recent Nairobi IG tour. [courtesy]

Chen style martial arts woos Kenyans An ancient internal martial arts discipline has been quietly gaining popularity in Kenya. Travelog spoke to a taijiquan instructor Master Li Mingliang, a 20th generation lineage and in-door disciple of Grandmaster Zhu Tiancai. By Jimmy Mwangi travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Why are you doing it in Kenya? Chen Style Taijiquan was developed 500 years ago as a traditional martial arts system based on ancient Chinese philosophical principles. Although the roles of martial arts in China has changed, taijiquan remains incredibly relevant today and its international popularity is a testament that it offers something special. As a lineage inheritor of Chen Style Taijiquan, it is my obligation to spread it in Kenya where I live and bring its benefits to Kenyans. Why is the uptake of Tai Chi in Kenya still low? Because very few people in Kenya have a good understanding about Taijiquan. But, in the last year or so, there are more workshops and training sessions around Nairobi and we are seeing

a more people turn up for training Taijiquan. The foundation of Taijiquan is intertwined with Yin-Yang theory and Taoist philosophy. The term “Tai Chi” (Taiji) conceptually relates to the Tao, or the great way. The duality and opposite characteristics of Yin-Yang is present everywhere throughout nature, for e.g. earth-heaven, dark-light, female-male, stillness-movement, cold-heat, centralperipheral, inward-outward, peace-war, joy-sadness, abundance-scarcity, profit-loss, and so on. Who are the biggest beneficiaries of the art? and what are the reasons? Anyone who believes in the concept of Taijiquan and cultivates a lifetime of Taiji-

quan practice will be the biggest beneficiary, not only physically, but also mentally! Taijiquan develops the body’s internal energy and opens the meridian channels using principles from Taoist health cultivation practices of Daoyin and Tuina, precursors to modern day Qigong. Studies have shown the huge health benefits of Tai Chi. Do you think this would be of benefit to Kenya, that is struggling with a surging number of people suffering from lifestyle diseases? Today’s modern fast-pace of living has seen an increase in stress levels and diseases in the Kenyan population. Taijiquan training engages a constant interplay between expressions of Yin-Yang including : empty-full, closeopen, soft-hard, light-heavy, gatherrelease, relax-tense, follow-lead, yield-resist, and so on. By practicing Taijiquan, one can change the way one experiences the world, providing a deeper perception and a sharper understanding of the ever-changing nature of life, ageing and relationships with family and friends. What can be done to increase visibility and positive outlook of the exercise in Kenya? Obviously it will be very helpful if the local media can help to introduce the Taijiquan culture and benefits of

practicing Taijiquan! We have plans to hold a World Taiji Day which takes place on the last Saturday of every April and would invite more Kenyans to join us at the China-Kenya Education Centre on O’Washika Road in Lavington to participate in Taijiquan. We held a flash mob taijiquan demonstration at the World Taiji Day on April 27, 2019 in Uhuru Park. This was conduced in conjunction with the Confucius Institute of the University of Nairobi. We would invite more Kenyans to join our weekly adult and kids Tai Chi/ Shaolin martial art classes at our school located at the China Kenya Education Centre located in Lavington. What have been the challenges of practicing this art in Kenya? The fast pace of life is the biggest challenge. Life is a continuous experience within the mind and body, but this modern world is full of things competing for attention and distraction from a healthy and satisfying experience. To your knowledge, which other country has this been well received and what has been the benefits accrued to the population? Youth or octogenarian groups? According to my knowledge, Taijiquan is widely accepted Japan, South Korea, Singapore, North and South America and most European countries. It is also popular in South Africa where many Taijiquan practitioners have set up their training academies. It has been practiced not only by older generations, but also by the younger generation.


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The Standard

the mixologiST

Follow us on instagram @TravelLogKe Twitter: @TravelLogKe1 Facebook: Travel Log KE

Not all cocktails have colour A classic example is the use of Tom Collins to create a brilliant white drink By Alex Kavita travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

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e have been conditioned to think that a cocktail must have a colour of sorts, be it pink, green, blue or layered. Here a few facts about ‘uncoloured’ cocktail that will never go out of fashion – the Tom Collins. A while back we wrote about the bare minimum in bar ingredients and we didn’t include grenadine syrup or blue curacao which are used to provide ‘colour to drinks’ If you use a strawberry, then by default you get a pinkish/reddish hue in your cocktail. If you use rosemary, you will not get any colour but if you nail it as far as flavor achievement you will have a great rosemary cocktail. You in effect have two great tasting cocktails. One

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with ‘colours’ and the other ‘colourless’. Now this doesn’t mean that if you use cinnamon and you get a dull brown colour that it’s okay! All drinks have to be refined to feed optics. Some can be clear, others can be white, or even orange. Just make sure it is appealing to the eye and not murky but most of all that it tastes right. Walk around the grocery and ask yourself where all the beautiful ingredients that aren’t red, green or blue go to – they are depleted and restocked. Are there even blue ingredients at the grocery? Fact The Tom Collins is a brilliant white if well-made, with an amazing taste. The green/blue drinks were conjured up by ‘mixologists’ who couldn’t stock fresh juices and needed a shortcut to make ‘pleasant drinks’. The Tom Collins is a bartender creation has been around since before 1880 and is going nowhere. Ask yourself – does it have to be blue or does it have to look refined based on its ingredients and most of all, how does it taste?

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How to make tHe tom Collins CoCktail • • • • • • •

Tanqueray no.10 – 50ml Sugar syrup – 25ml Lemon juice – 25ml Soda water – top up Glass – Collins/highball Garnish – lemon wedge Cherry – classic garnish that the home cocktail

enthusiast can omit) Fill glass with ice. Measure in all ingredients and stir well. Garnish by placing lemon wedge in glass.

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meet the CheF How long have you been a chef for? I have over 25 year’s experience in this industry. Where did you get your training? I was trained in China at the Hur Technology and Skills Institute. How many people work in your kitchen? I have seven staff members.

What’s Cooking?

Pok choy with mushroom

What is your favourite cuisine? Shanghai cuisine is my best play. How have Kenyans responded to Chinese Cuisine? While Kenyans have their way of preparing dishes, they are nonetheless willing to explore new and different dishes. What’s your favourite dish on the menu and why? Braised pork with brown sauce and fruit sauce – I find it classic. What food do Kenyans order the most? Kenyans love their chicken and mostly order our braised chicken spiced with hot and sour sauce. What inspires you? How do you come up with ideas for the dishes in your restaurant? The need to introduce authentic Chinese recipes to this country while using available fresh ingredients is a worthy challenge. What is your go-to meal when you’re low on time? Vegetables cook fast especially snow peas and Chinese cabbage. What dish/food gets the most likes on your Instagram? Pok choy with mushrooms is always a favourite.

By Chef Cui Guo You

Have you worked in any other countries other than Kenya? I had a short stint in Russia. What is the craziest recipes you have ever tried? Steamed beef head.

travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Easiest meal to impress someone? Fried rice and noodles. Family? I am married with one daughter. Does your wife cook? Actually, yes she does. What is you must-have kitchen ingredient in your kitchen? Cooking oil, salt, soy sauce, vinegar, and cooking wine. Besides being a chef, what else do you do? I draw. What’s the one thing you’d like to achieve before you die? I would very much like to write a book and have a published autobiography. Chef Cui Guo You is a certified Senior chef and current head chef at Enjoy Yuanzhiyuan Restaurant located on Mandera Rd., Lavington, Nairobi.

Serving for 10 pax Ingredients: • Fresh pok choy (Chinese cabbage) 350g • Shiitake mushroom 70-80g • Sauce: Soya sauce, oyster sauce, half tablespoon of sugar Procedure: Preparation: 1. Soak shiitake mushroom in water for more than six hours until soft. 2. Wash completely and slice. 3. Clean pok choy and cut into twoinch pieces. Frying the pok choy: 1. Add four tablespoons of oil in the pan 2. Put in all the pok choy in the pan and on medium heat fry for three minutes 3. Add a pinch of salt (5g) and sugar (2g). Continue frying for one minute. Pok choy should be soft and tasteful. 4. Poy choy is ready to be laid in dish in your desired way now. cooking Shiitake MuShrooM: 1. Add a tablespoon of oil in the pan. 2. Add the sliced mushroom.

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Add 1/3 tablespoon of oyster sauce, 1/2 table spoon of soya sauce, and a pinch of sugar. Fry the sauce and mushroom evenly. Add some water, just enough to cover the mushroom and cook in medium to low heat for about five minutes. Sauce should be the right consistency – not too watery or to dry. Lay the mushroom on top of your pok choy.

tip: Spray a little amount of oil (1/5 tablespoon) on top of the mushroom. That will give your mushrooms a shiny and glossy appearance.


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The Standard

What’s in a

DID YOU KNOW?

Although it may seem arbitrary, this form of rating can be a reliable guide

By Travelog

star?

Writers travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Burj Al Arab Hotel , Dubai (Courtesy)

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o reduce your chances of getting less that you bargained for, industry regulators developed a system of rating establishments. Other informal ratings are through respected bodies like Forbes, consumer feedback on forums like travel website Trip Advisor, and of course trusted travel writers. Just keep in mind, however, that these are much more likely to be personal opinions rather than a reflection of the hotel’s quality. Some countries adopt an alphabetic grading, from A to F or simply a ‘satisfactory’ or ‘unsatisfactory’ footnote for accommodation such as hostels and motels to grade accommodation. Others use terms such as deluxe or luxury; first class or superior; tourist class/standard, and budget class or economy. Those that use diamonds and stars to show rating, nonetheless, are more widely accepted. Generally, star ratings start from onestar to five, and contrary to popular belief, there is no such rating as six-star or seven star rating. Even the world’s super luxurious establishments like The Burj Al Arab Hotel in Dubai – the first hotel being widely described as a “sevenstar” property, discourages the use of the term. Some resorts, however, do not conform to any typical hotel-star-rating system. Vacation clubs like Kilifi’s Vipingo Ridge fall in this category where visitors choose the hotel based on what they specifically want. This could include among other things swimming pools, beach, restaurants, spa, and golf courses. With so many different grading standards, it is no wonder in recent hotel rating systems have been criticised by some who argue that the system are complex and difficult for a layman to understand. It has been suggested that the lack of a

Villa Rosa Kempinski, Nairobi universal standard for rating hotels may also undermine the usability of such schemes. Attempts to unify the classification system so that it becomes internationally recognised and reliable have all failed. A common feature that cuts across the different star rating system is that the number of stars is indicative of the range of facilities available, and not necessarily about the degree of luxury of the hotel. Food services, number of restaurants, entertainment, view, room variations such as size and additional amenities, spa and fitness centres, business centres and conference facilities, 24-hour room service, ease of access and location are all considerations in a star rating. Even though star ratings can seem arbitrary, they can still be beneficial and can help to inform you about a hotel. If you are seeking high-end polished personalised service, plush linen, exclusive range of toiletries, gourmet menus, a full spa and fitness centre, a concierge desk, internet access and other premium services, you will probably want to look at hotels that are rated three stars and

Medina Palms, Watamu above. Three star hotels are comfortable and moderately priced but may lack some of the luxury of four-star hotels. A five star rating is reserved for high-end chain and boutique hotels. Expect to pay a premium for five star luxuries. Kenya uses the five-star system for grading done by Tourism Regulatory Authority (TRA), a corporate body established under section 4 of the Tourism Act No.28 of 2011. The Authority periodically undertakes National classification of all regulated tourism activities and services

with the aim of ensuring high standards and quality of services. A Standardisation and Classification Committee comprising members from both the public and private sectors oversee the classification exercises. This is based on approved criteria for each category of establishments. To get the most out of your next vacation, approach those stars with a savvy eye to make educated decisions about your hotel.

Segera Retreat, Laikipia


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The Standard

Kabarak Guest House First Class Experience

A tranquil, relaxing, exceptional and secure environment

Located 20kms from Nakuru CBD, The hotel has a secure, and serene environment ideal for organizations, churches, schools, family and cliques looking to experience the best of hospitality in accommodation, conferences, cuisine, wedding events and Team building.

Our Facilities

• Kabarak Restaurant • Conference Boardroom • Conference Hall • Wedding/Events Venue • Team Building • Fitness centre • Swimming • Cuisine +254 710 760 545

guesthouse@kabarak.ac.ke


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The Standard

Follow us on Instagram @TravelLogKe Twitter: @TravelLogKe1 Facebook: Travel Log KE

Navigate (hotel and destination bookings included) using Google applications: Maps, Translate and Lens. Day Zero: Check in to your hotel Day one: BO-KAAP AND CBD TOUR Morning: Visit the BoKaap neighbourhood by foot while also gaining insight into the district’s vivid history, culture and scenery on this walking tour. Yoou will get an overview of BoKaap’s best known landmarks, including the colourful houses, hidden places to find local beers, mosques and historical restaurants and shops. Other places of interest include but not limited to Auwal Mosque, BoKaap Museum, and Monkeybiz Botique. noon: Transfer to Signal Hill for Noon Day Gun. Ever since 1806, a shot has been fired from a cannon at noon as a time signal. This is Cape Town’s oldest lasting tradition and you can visit the site to watch the process of shooting the gun, learn about its history and gaze out at the views of the city. For lunch, opt for a perched restaurant to enjoy the CBD. afternoon: Table Mountain Cable Car Transfer. Table Mountain was inaugurated as one of the world’s New 7 Wonders of Nature in 2012. night: Transfer to Atlantic Studios. : interactive dinner. Play and cook in the incredible space where South African TV show, Kokkedoor, is filmed. With 10 fully equipped cooking stations.

48 hrs in Cape Town

Day Three: Winelands Full-Day Tour. With its vast expanse of vineyards set against a backdrop of sloping green mountains and startling blue sky, the Cape Winelands are one of Africa’s most enchanting landscapes, and a visit is as much about the gorgeous scenery as the wine itself. Whether you’re a seasoned sommelier or a wine novice just looking for a relaxing fun day out with other people then this scheduled group tour is perfect for you. JuDgMenT Day: Check out and transfers to CPT International Airport.

AbroAd

[HanruMarais Photography]


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UlTimaTe escape Follow us on instagram @TravelLogKe Twitter: @TravelLogKe1 Facebook: Travel Log KE

Adventure meets luxury at Panari Resort, Nyahururu A short drive away from Nairobi, this hidden gem is destined to leave you breathless

By Jayne Rose Gacheri travelog@standardmedia.coke

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f you love adventure and nature infused with a tinge of history and laden with fun, then the Panari Resort, Nyahururu is the place for you. From Nairobi, it will take you three hours to get there. On arrival, I am met by stunning scenery- colourful illuminated signage, manicured lawns, and paved paths. At the gate, I am cleared by security before boarding a vintage golf cart for a short drive to the inside of the resort. I am awed by the ambience of the reception area. A set of vintage canons adorn each side of the hotel entrance is a mini replica of the famous Thompson Falls, a spectacular photographic site for guests who cannot make it to the falls during their stay. After a prompt check-in, I hop onto the hotel golf cart that drives me to my “home”. The five-star resort has 10 of

these carts, dedicating six for guests and four for the maintenance crew, so you need not worry about walking from across the expansive 20-acre facility especially in rainy weather. A three-minute drive manoeuvring through the landscape and imposing constructions brings us to my room in a four-roomed cottage – two rooms on the ground floor and another two on the upper floor. My room is quite spacious and tastefully furnished. It is quite chilly outside but there’s enough warmth emanating from the fireplace in my room. As I enter the bathroom to wash off the dust from my trip, I’m reminded of the “Happy Valley” – the shower heads are designed to look like sprinklers which save on water but ensure that showering feels like dancing in the rain. You can also make coffee in your room as well as enjoy the Wi-Fi. In the morning I am woken up by the distant sound of the falling waters and the chirping birds, bringing my memory to many years back while growing up in the village. I gasp as I step out of my room and marvel at the exquisite beauty that greets me. From the decor on the outer wall to the finer details of the interior in each room, it’s easy to see that no expense has been spared to give guests a taste of luxurious hospitality. The elegant structures that make up The Panari Resort are spread out naturally – the brown walls and the well-manicured lawns blend with the natural forest to give the place a cool peaceful feel.

Interior of the luxurious hotel. [Photos/Njiru Rukenya and Courtesy]

I take a walk to the Brown Olive Restaurant and I notice that the architects and landscapers of the multi-billion resort did a magnificent job to work around some of the oldest trees in the compound while allowing for natural lighting in the 22 stand-alone cottages. The hilly topography has also

been maintained as the cottages are built in such a way that they blend with the gentle slope of the land. A Panari Special – Outdoor live Cooking Meals at the iconic 5-star facility are special affairs. The cuisines are tastefully prepared to give you the


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The Standard

UlTimaTe escape 1) Front view of the hotel 2) Golf cart used for transport around the hotel 3)A la carte meal at the Brown Olive restaurant 4) Chef Chege Maina preparing the hotel’s speciality sea food. 5) The General Manager, Martin Mburugu 6) Guests enjoying a meal [Photos/Njiru Rukenya]

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Escape to a luxury hideaway waiting for you in the heart of 20 acres of tranquil forest. Whether you are coming for a short break or a longer retreat, The Panari Resort Nyahururu has all you need for a perfect stay.

Facilities and amenities Accommodation: Ten courtyard rooms, 88 rooms (22 cottages) and two executive villas. The villas have a lounge and kitchenette. All are set out on lavish, well-manicured grounds and family rooms hosted in the main building. Extra: 2 Rooms for physically challenged guests. Every cottage is equipped with a fireplace. Five-star resort amenities. Restaurant and Bars: Brown Olive Restaurant and Silky Oak Bar and Coffee Shop Body and Wellness: Eucalyptus Spar: Fully equipped Body and Wellness Spa, indoor heated pool, gym, and aerobics rooms, massage, steam, and Sauna rooms, Poolside bar and coffee shop Conferencing and Meeting Rooms: The resort has 5 conference rooms, complete with stateof-the-art audiovisual, free Wi-Fi, and air condition Special venues: Wedding and Team-building Entertainment and activities: Background music, Karaoke biking, quads, segways, nature walks, swing chairs, temple, indoor games, kids playground Excursions: Thompson Falls, Hippos Pool, Lake Ol’ Bolossat, Happy Valley, Subukia Shrines, Solio Ranch, Marmanet and Abadares forest. Contact: +254(0) 709070000 Email: sales@panarihotels.com Website: https://www.panarihotels.com/resort-nyahururu

means to ignite foods that have liquor or liqueur added. It is done for a dramatic effect and to develop a rich flavour of the liquor to the foods.

best. I decided to indulge the chefs through a cook-out session. I love live cooking sessions so after indulging in a fusion cuisine dinner I was curious about one particular meal – the Panari signature seafood flambé with coconut and cashew-berry potatoes. When I inquired from Chef Chege Maina, I was intrigued when he asked, if I want to experience a step-by-step instruction on how to prepare it. Within an hour, an outdoor cooking station was set-up in one of the beautiful spots of the gardens. The environment was enticing – against the backdrop of soothing Panari signature tunes coordinated by Jeff Mwarangu. The live cooking team comprises of Executive Chef John Maina Chege (seafood flambé), Chef Innocent Njoroge (stir-fry vegetables and coconut potatoes), and Chef Lawrence Mbugua (dessert). Seafood Flambé Chef Chege explains that this particular recipe is a Wasani experience, away from Indian Ocean to River Ewaso Nyiro and Thompson Falls (both a stone throw from the resort). “It’s a unique delicacy connecting Kenyan Coast to Nyahururu” says Chef Maina. The term flambé is a French word meaning “flaming” or “flamed”. Flambé

Stir-fried vegetables and cashew berry potatoes Chef Njoroge took me through this amazingly simple but tasty recipe, which unbelievably took under ten minutes to prepare. It was an accompaniment for the Seafood Flambé. Zucchini Cake with Custard sauce This is a signature and unique desert by the Panari team. There was no time to prepare this, but Chef Lawrence Mbugua gave me a written instruction. As my Panari live cook-

ing experience project, he asked me to prepare it and give him and the team feedback. Going through the step-by-step Live Cooking instruction was an awesome and exciting experience, one that I intend to practice back at home. Activities The To-Do List at Panari Resort ranges from hikes, nature walks, and excursions. There is never a dull moment here. Some of the activities that I indulged in during my three-day stay included: whiling away time by having quiet and tranquil moments within the balcony of my room, spent time at the swing-chair, had a taste of the special places set apart within the expansive 20-acre facility such as the temple, the peacock and rabbit yard. On my list also is a nature walk within the property as I watched bird life (Panari Resort has over 60 species). I visited the Panari organic garden, all under guidance by Duty Manager, James Ndung’u. In the evenings I would sit by a bonfire listening to Panari’s soothing signature tunes, enjoying storytime sessions, playing indoor and outdoor games or practicing playing golf at the mini-golf range (practice to hit the ball). Other adventures here include taking a guided nature walk through Marmanet Forest, a challenging hike to the Thompson Falls, a walk to the hippo pool, a visit to the nearby Nyahururu town which is the highest (standing at 2360 ASL), where I interacted with the local community. Soon enough, it was time to leave for Nairobi. I will be back to explore the Happy Valley, Lake Olbolosat (the only lake in Central Kenya), an Agro-tour to Lasit Tea and Coffee Farm, Solio Ranch and Conservancy (with the biggest number of white rhinos) and the Subukia Shrine, all part of The Panari unique guided Excursions.

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28 Budget Break By Expat Mummy travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Whether you choose to stay at the East or West side of the Tsavo, you are assured of sweeping views of the African savannah

I nyali Bird Sanctuary

Kilaguni Serena reSort

nyali Bird Sanctuary Location: Nyali Bird Sanctuary is located approximately 30 minutes outside of Mtito Andei along the border of Tsavo National Park. Price: For the whole house USD 80 (Sh8,000)on Airbnb Facilities: The house sleeps 6 and camping is also available House comes with two bedrooms, and camp beds for another two people Fitted kitchen, bush pool, bbq and outside seating

• Location: Kilaguni Serena Resort is located 90 minutes from the park gate • Price: From USD 250 (Sh25,000) per night 2 adults full board. Book directly through the hotel and check out some of their packages and deals. Facilities: · Central dining room and rock-built bar overlooking the water hole · Dedicated bush dining area, breakfast on Lion Rock, sundowners on Roaring Rocks · Garden swimming pool and sundeck · Gift shop and business centre · 3 game drives daily with dedicated wilderness guides, guided nature walks or bird-watching walks · Visit to Akamba communities and opportunities to buy Akamba handicrafts · Wi-Fi · 24-hour on-call medical services · Baby-sitting, family rooms, children’s dining/menus · Massages, facials, pedicures, manicures

don’t miSS

The Mzima Springs was the highlight of our stay. These are a series of four natural springs formed from pure water gushing through volcanic lava rock from the nearby Chyulu Hills. 50 million gallons of water a day flow through a series of pools and which are unbelievably clear and pure. A structure that allows you to view the pools from under the water has been built. The crystalline water allows you to view Mzima Springs from many metres away. The waters beckon you in on such a hot day but they are filled with crocodiles and hippos. The pools team with life, filled with fish, crocs doze on the lakeside and hippos glare balefully from the shallows. The area has a wonderful boardwalk but it is advisable to go with one of the armed guards who wait a the entrance.

t’s midnight and I’m on the rooftop perched on a rickety deckchair. Some 100 metres away a leopard has attacked a baboon camp. The chaos and noise from the ensuing fight pierces the stillness of the night. The guttural bellows of the baboons increase in intensity as the leopard shows no signs of backing off. A leopard can kill a baboon but a baboon troop can mortally wound a leopard. After 20 terrifying minutes, the noise dies down. The sudden silence is startling as calm returns to this part of the park. The stars continue their epic show, a hyrax mutters and somewhere in the bush a leopard heads off to lick its wounds. I scuttle down the roof to check on my children who I had left sleeping. All seems well. I am giddy with excitement, ‘This is what I came to Tsavo for’. Tsavo National Park is everything I had dreamt it would be. No other park has so perfectly mirrored my childhood imagination. As you head down to Tsavo from Nairobi and the temperatures seem to leap a degree every few kilometres you go. The city’s skyscrapers fade into grassland and are replaced by the Chyulu hills on the horizon. In four short hours you are in the deepest bush. Tsavo is a land of burnt red soil. It clings to the black lava rocks, decorates the bushes with its fine power and creates dusky pink cyclones in the sky. Ancient Baobabs dot the park, stretching ghostly arms into the piercing blue sky and dropping seeds with a thunk. The whole time the majestic Kilimanjaro towers over it all, keeping a watchful eye on

mother nature’s bounty at the immense, 13,747 square-kilometres of expansive animal sanctuary. It doesn’t have the prolific elephant families of Amboseli, the lions of the Mara, the rhinos of Ol Pejeta but it has a dazzling landscape that captivates the eyes, and lingers in the mind. Tsavo is home to luxurious lodges, high-end hotels and other accommodation sites such as campsites and rental houses. I have visited both and would recommend either. First, we visit the Kilaguni Serena Resort, which occupies a prime location in the park. Kilimanjaro is the star of the show, overshadowing everything with her crowning glory. To the right are the gentle green Chyulu Hills and in front a watering hole and the seeming infinite red earth of Tsavo. Kilaguni is all about the watering hole, which is


29 Budget Break Follow us on Instagram @TravelLogKe Twitter: @TravelLogKe1 Facebook: Travel Log KE

Date with nature at Kenya’s largest national park

Kilaguni Serena resort visited by animals day and night. Elephants come to wash, and bucks to drink, warthogs to antagonise and lions to hunt. We sit there sipping our cocktails as we watch from a vantage position. Our tastefully furnished rooms overlook the underused pool, where deckchairs are lined up like soldiers but are used only by hadedas and monkeys. The sun is so hot in the day that we opt to stay in our air-conditioned rooms, occasionally guzzling ice-cold beers. Mornings and nights are for game drives – expert guides take us to little

known watering holes. We track lions, spot hyenas and our hearts gallop as a huge male elephant waggles his ears at us. For the kids, the highlight of the day is the food, the scrumptious buffets at breakfast, noon and night…we eat and eat and our fat tummies are replete. The Kilaguni Serena Resort is gently luxurious and its price equally easy on the pocket. This is a good value resort with all the facilities you need and knowledgeable guides. We would happily return but even the cheapest of lodges can strain the

pocket when you have three kids, so when we return to Tsavo we look for cheaper options and find the little known gem that is Nyali Bird Sanctuary. Nyali Bird Sanctuary or Robin’s House is an Airbnb situated just on the park border 20 minutes out of Mtito Andei. It is the most basic of houses, electricity comes from car batteries, showers are an unenthusiastic dribble, and the fridge keeps throwing tantrums but you are here for the animals, and Nyali Bird Sanctuary is all about the animals. As close to camping as you can get

with four good solid walls around you and a proper mattress, this is your chance to get close to nature without having to worry about an elephant trampling over your tent. From the roof of Nyali Bird Sanctuary, I saw the most mesmerising display of stars I have ever seen. I also saw an elephant knock down a tree and it is here that I experienced the infamous leopard and baboon midnight fight. Nyali Bird Sanctuary, so named for the many birds that visit the area, has two bedrooms and cots in the lounge that can comfortably sleep six people. It has a fully kitted kitchen, a bush pool, berbecue and plenty of outside seating. It’s super-duper light on the pocket and a great base to explore Tsavo from. I might be rushing home for a much needed shower at the end of it but I feel like I’ve been a part of the bush adventure. The question is how do you want to experience Tsavo National Park? A lodge will give you an indulgent experience, guided drives in which you will learn about animals from experienced rangers. You are guaranteed a safer Safari experience; the guides know the routes inside out and will often carry weapons to scare away curious predators. On the other hand if you opt for selfdrive you will get a unique experience far away from the droves of tourists and their identikit safari photos. You risk getting lost and you are on your own when confronted by an angry buffalo.


The Standard

[Courtesy]

THe COnnOISSeUR

Barista’s take on brewing coffee By Jimmy Mwangi travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

How professional accident brewed the idea for Esther Otieno to open training school on craft of making coffee Tell us about Baristapro. We are a training school in professional barista skills. Our focus is practical learning and constitutes 65 per cent of our curriculum. Our vision is to revolutionise the local and regional drinking culture as well as empower the youth by promoting the barista profession. We are located on Kihe Apartments on Lang’ata Road. Who is a barista? A barista is a person, usually a coffeehouse employee, who prepares and serves espressobased coffee drinks. They also manage the day-to-day running of a coffee bar. Coffee is one of the most popular beverages in terms of consumption globally. What inspired the idea of a school? I noticed that Kenyans do not

partake local coffee despite it being ranked among the best in the world. The 2000s has seen a robust growth of the Kenyan coffee shops, necessitating top-range brewing equipment. A basic commercial brewing machine costs upwards of Sh400,000, therefore it only made sense to have skilled professionals entrusted with this expensive equipment. What’s your background? In 2004, I applied for an administration position at Dormans Coffee Limited. When I went for the interview, the assessor suggested that I was better suited for a sales executive job instead. I accepted the challenge, aced the interview, and was hired. I took to coffee fast and soon was part of the team that set up a public barista training school locally. The school opened its doors in 2007 and quickly took the industry by storm. It did not take long to

we found our footing. The big break came after the cohorts we graduated caught the eye of coffee shops due to their exemplary service and our graduates began being sought after. We have so far graduated 451 baristas. As an endorsement to our brand, international coffee outlets, especially those in the Gulf, are seeking our services. see

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positve effects of the project among the youth. I had found my purpose. In 2014, driven by this purpose, I quit employment to focus my energies on this venture. After a much-needed reflective break, and with the help of two investors, we opened Baristapro Training School in January 2015. What was the journey like? It took about two years before

What is the barista training? We offer a three-tier training: beginner, intermediate and professional at Sh15,000, Sh20,000 and Sh40,000 respectively, with a maximum of 12 students for each training. We have had, unfortunately, to discontinue some students mid-way who showed lack of interest in the programme. How else are you growing the coffee culture domestically? Apart from our regular lessons, we introduced a three-hour single session dubbed Barista 101 every third Saturday of the month. It is intended for anyone who wants to grow his or her basic knowledge of coffee. We also host the Latte Art Throwdown, an annual competition for baristas held every first Saturday of December. What is the future of Baristapro? We are opening a coffee shop soon to ensure that we continue empowering youth with industrial attachment opportunities. We are also relocating to Westlands.


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Fashion house soaring high on unique designs with patented witty Kenyan slogans

travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

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amed after the Swahili word that means ‘to soar’, Peperuka is a limited edition apparel, home décor and gift item brand targeting the eco-friendly and socially-conscious consumer. The garments are fashioned from natural or recycled fabrics and the design aesthetic is rooted in African history and tradition. The brand has also come up with relateable designs , feeding from Kenyan peculiarities and keenly responding to pop culture, the most visible being the patented ‘Me I Love’ slogan. The pioneer design ‘Me I Love Kenya’ has gone on to birth various county editions. Home décor items like cushion, mugs and fridge magnets, which spot popular Kenyan-speak such as ‘Tuma na ya kutoa’, ‘I’m in a small meeting’ among others have resonated with the masses. The list of celebrities who have embraced this brand goes to show how far reaching it is. They include activist Boniface Mwangi, Lupita Nyong’o, media personalities like G-money and Larry Madowo as well as musicians like Diamond Platinumz, Koffi Olomide, Jidenna and Damian Marley.

Beginnings Peperuka, the brainchild of Wangari Nyanjui, was conceived in 2006 and actively started operations in 2017. Wangari had just returned from the United States where she had worked in a design agency in San Francisco as a junior designer. The bachelor’s degree in Fine Arts (specialising in graphic design and packaging — from the ArtCenter College of Design located in Pasadena, California) graduate had returned to set up a graphic design company called Black Butter-

fly that was heavily involved in graphic design with SMEs and large corporations as its major clients. When she settled back home, Wangari noted that she could hardly find attire that fully expressed her personality. That is when she started toying with design campaigns around social issues woven in African stories. After ten years of running the creative design agency, Wangari struck gold as her side hustle forced her to abandon her day job. She did not mind. To show you how far she has come, Wangari is currently a production and sales mentor for the fourth season of Blaze mentorship programme.

Brand Inspiration Wangari’s drive to run this business is drawn from her appreciation of African heroes, her favourite one being the late environmentalist, Kenya’s Professor Wangari Maathai. Wangari has chosen to con-

tinue with her icon’s legacy of tree planting through Peperuka. In addition to furthering the icon’s image, the company plants a tree for every item sold. Peperuka, for instance, has collaborated with Kilimani Project Foundation who are running a greening campaign within Kilimani area, Nairobi.

Where to find them Besides using their warehouse located along Riara Rd, Nairobi, Peperuka has made use of social media to grow the brand. They hope to have their presence felt across the nation and in the region and are exploring selling their products at major airports and gift shops as well as using established retail outlets for distribution.

How to find them You can find them on Facebook: www.facebook.com/ Peperuka.World, @PeperukaWorld on Instagram and Twitter: and through their online shop www.peperuka. co.ke

Peperuka fashion puts Kenyanness on the map [Courtesy]

By Jimmy Mwangi

made in kenya



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