Travelog September 2020 by Standard Group PLC

Travel #JIONEE KENYA

NOT FOR SALE

SEPTEMBER 2020

New Testament

The Standard

EDITOR’S WORD

SPLENDID SPACES Pg 4

The silver lining

T ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS Pg 16

WHAT’S COOKING? Pg 20

SAVVY TRAVELLER Pg 18

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Ochieng Rapuro GROUP EXECUTIVE EDITOR AND HEAD OF NEWS: Kipkoech Tanui MANAGING EDITORS: Denis Galava/ John Bundotich I EDITOR: Thorn Mulli MANAGER, PRINT CREATIVE: Dan Weloba DESIGNERS: Fred Asanyo, Benson Gathemia CONTRIBUTORS: Bonnita Aluoch, Dr Mordecai Ogada, Jayne Rose Gacheri, Ivy Waridi, Tamara Britten,

Tony Mochama, Peter Muiruri PHOTOGRAPHY: David Gichuru, Wilberforce Okwiri, Anna Anthony, MarkDenver Karubiu BUSINESS MANAGER: Francis Wambua

Registered at the GPO as a newspaper. The Standard is printed and published by the proprietors THE STANDARD GROUP PLC Email: travelog@standardmedia.co.ke Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: TravelogKe Website: travelog.ke

hat the year 2020 is one for the record books is common knowledge so I will not bog you down with more news of how bad it has been. I’d rather dwell a positive A bird in Egyptian mythology that lived in the desert for 500 years and then consumed itself by fire, later to rise renewed from its ashes. Global tourism has taken a beating as countries grapple to keep their populations safe with border controls and related activity. Whoever pictured a UEFA Champions League final match played to a television audience? That the Pope had to change his prayer tradition to a congregation at St Peters Square and Islam’s Hajj is only taking around 1,000 pilgrims this year goes to show how grave the pandemic is. Kenya, and most of Africa, has not been spared the fangs of the COVD-19 dragon and our tourism sector has particular borne the heat of her flames. International arrivals might have resumed but most visitors have understandably opted to remain home. But every cloud has a silver lining. Our tourism industry, like the mythical Egyptian Bennu bird from whence the Greek phoenix and popular phrase originates, is rising from its ashes. In scenes reminiscent of 2016 when Kenya faced a heightened threat of terrorism, her people have risen to the task of keeping the industry afloat. Times are tough but what better time to take a break? In true Kenyan fashion, traffic swarms have blessed Nairobi National Park with numbers she has never seen since inception. This month, the Masai Mara is bracing itself for a

test of the domestic tourism might. We wilol not disappoint. In related news, we just turned one. Twelve editions of dreams fraught with triumph and cynicism in equal measure. After a pandemic-imposed break, we embark on season two of the Travelog show with this special issue highlighting next-door hidden gems you probably never knew existed. On behalf of the group, I write to thank you for reading and taking time to mail in kind words that have kept this ship chugging. Special thanks to all brands that have supported us on this amazing journey. We are keen to accommodating you in our renewed journey. Beginning this month, we will be connecting all these beautiful spaces and travellers in a fresh way. Look out for our renewed digital platform will make it easy for you to find for little known but fabulous brands. In a past editorial note, I intimated my intention to hike Mount Kenya. As we mark our first year of existence, I welcome you to join the Travelog family on this journey christened The Road to Mount Kenya. Look out for details for the preparation hikes we will organise as we build up stamina for the ultimate climb. The pre-hikes, mostly but not limited to day hikes, will take us to different parts of the country so this is a perfect opportunity to network, keep fit and tick off a few bucket list destinations. To join the club, write to us travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Thorn Mulli

The Standard

Magical Kenya brand ambassador witnesses the wilderbeest migration wonder

or the very first time, the World’s Greatest Marathoner set foot in the Mara last month, accompanied by his family, to witness the ongoing Great Wildebeest Migration. This comes hot in the heels, of his signing as magical Kenya destination ambassador by Kenya Tourism Board (KTB). The engagement, which commenced in July 2020, will see Eliud Kipchoge promote Kenya as a preferred tourism destination both locally, regionally and internationally through various campaigns. Speaking during his unveiling as Kenya’s new goodwill ambassador for tourism, President Uhuru Kenyatta in a live link intimated that the entire nation is betting on the Greatest of All Time who coined the phrase ‘no human is limited’ to offer an athletic shot in the arm of a limping industry. Uhuru praised Kipchoge for choosing to represent his country as a ‘Magical Kenya’ brand ambassador, calling it an act of patriotism. Kipchoge assured the president he would do his best to promote the country as a top travel destination. Notable figures who have since witnessed the seventh Wonder of the world include The Kabaka of Buganda, Ronald Muwenda Mutebi II as well as Baringo Senator Gideon Moi who visited the reserve to drum support for domestic tourism during the Covid 19 pandemic era.

[Courtesy]

The Standard

SPLENDID SPACES

Would you consider sleeping in a shipping container? There is probably no property in Kenya that portrays the phrase “one man’s trash is another’s treasure” better than this luxury boutique aptly nestled in Mukima area of Nanyuki. Daigas Edge is a camp guided by the triple ‘R’ ethos of reduce, reuse and recycle. To reduce their footprint they have stylishly repurposed 20-foot shipping containers into the most disarming of guest rooms. The property is intentionally off grid and is 100 per cent solar-powered. Each of the five en-suite rooms with a verandah and a shade pergola is tucked privately among the evergreen Mediterranean buckthorn. While you will not find a television set here, you can surf away at the central mess tent. If you are seeking a digital detox, however, the property is set a stark ten kilometres between Nanyuki town and Ol Pejeta conservancy and is a perfect base from which to commune with nature.

Ultimate recycle

The Standard

As the Jockey Club of Kenya marks a century, we gallop down memory lane to trace the races’ humble beginnings By Jayne Rose Gacheri travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

“After the isolation and exertion of life in the bush, whether on safari or farming, the hunters and farmers descended on Nairobi with the explosive enthusiasm of sailors hitting a port.” - Bartle Bull in his book, Safari. Racing in Kenya is rich in history, from its humble beginning at Malindi when the Sheikh of Malindi, Sheikh al-Bauri, planned a racing event to entertain Portuguese explorer, Vasco da Gama in 1498. However, the first recorded race meeting happened in Machakos in 1839. Under the auspices of the then East African Turf Club on June 22, 1897, the first meet was held to mark Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations. This took place at the Imperial British East Africa Company administrative forte of Machakos. This premiere race, titled Machakos Challenge Cup, was over a half-mile and won by a pony named Tempest owned by Frank Hall, the District Officer at Kiambu. Further races took place in 1898 and 1899. Enter Alibhai Mulla Jeevanjee (founder, The African Standard, and current day The Standard); in 1890 and a decade later, racing accelerated to higher

heights. The success of the Machakos and Nairobi races are attributed to him, with the first Nairobi race taking place in 1900. Those initial races were marred with intricacies as the racecourse bordered the open plains teeming with wildlife. For instance, during one of the early meetings, a rhino (they were not endangered then), appeared on the racecourse and upset the racing with the riders heading back to the starting point faster than they had ever imagined. The rhino entertained the spectators by performing intricate charges before eventually trotting off to the woods with its tail triumphantly wagging in the air. In Nairobi in 1903, a lion chased a zebra across the racecourse as a race was in progress. Word has it that this was the fastest race that happened in the jockey’s career, although a number of the horses scampered on seeing the lion in possession of the freshly-killed zebra. Such were the intricacies of the first races. The media reporting of the happen-

ings in the racing industry was also bizarre. An article appearing in The African Standard of Wednesday, December 24, 1902 read, “Mr W Grant CMG lost his magnificent Arab horse while crossing the Mpologome River on his way to Buka. This is the second fine animal Mr Grant has lost in two years”. The races were a crowd-puller, with spectators travelling by rail from all corners of the East African protectorate in costumes varying from bright gowns of the European women down to the particoloured leso of the silver-bangled African woman. Everybody went to the races, including governors. Even today, these races are synonymous with fashion shows. So important was the Nairobi race that it drew many from beyond the protectorate including Kermit Roosevelt, son of former US President Theodore Roosevelt, who rode in six races in 1909. His father accompanied him. The list of VIPs included royal monarchs and celebrities such as Lord Delamere, Charles Clutterbuck, Berkeley Cole, Sir William

“By 1990, many Africans had entered the horseracing industry with great names such as Joe Muya, a hotelier, breeder, and Jockey Club Director, Steve Njuguna, and Patrick Mungai, both champion jockeys and trainers among others.” And They’re Off! – A history of more

than 100 years of Racing in Kenya, Then & Now

Horse power: Kenya’s history of racing

STORY BEHIND Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Northrup, Lady Lucie McMillan, David and Lady Jex-Blake, Captain Spencer Tryon, and Gooch Graham. Notable breeders and trainers and other big names such as Diana, Lady Delamere, Beryl Markham (the first woman to fly solo across the Atlantic) are part of the big names in this rich racing history. By 1907, a grandstand had been built where the spectators could watch the racers from an elevated vantage point. This has been improved over the years to include private boxes for dignitaries, special sitting for VIPs, several other grandstands as well as a picket fence marking the edge of the racecourse. This setting stands to date. Crowd puller In 1920, Kenya became a Crown Colony and the East African Turf Club changed its name to become the Jockey Club of Kenya, which it carries to date. Racing spread further upcountry when the Uasin Gishu Gymkhana Club was formed in Eldoret in 1921. By 1954, the Ngong Racecourse was remodelled after the famous English Ascot course and grandstand, and racing moved from the old Kariokor racecourse. This success was thanks to David Bowden, a racing enthusiast who kept his eyes on racing in Kenya for almost 60 years. The first African jockey entered racing in 1909, and by 1919, many Africans were riding and winning races. Sadly, though, they were never listed, and were only described as “natives”. However, by 1990, many Africans had entered the horseracing industry with great names such as Joe Muya, a hotelier, breeder, and Jockey Club Director, Steve Njuguna, and Patrick Mungai, both champion jockeys and trainers among others. African participation “In the past, we Kenyans did not involve ourselves in horses because we saw it as a very niche sport only for white people, but now things are different,” said Muya in a past interview. Racing continued to grow and today Ngong Racecourse with its nine-hole golf course (opened in 2003) remains the only public horseracing course in East Africa. Presently, the racing industry employs more than 25,000 people. Despite many challenges, horseracing survived to become a well-established institution that now uses modern technology with betting and watching taking place online. This is why, like the two days I visited, a crowd of only a handful attended, most of them being local seasoned betting punters. If you are interested in the history of racing in Kenya, you can buy the book, ‘And They’re Off! – A history of more than 100 years of Racing in Kenya, Then & Now’.

The Standard

TRAVEL TALK

The Plantation is Gone: Is tourism prepared for freedom? By Dr Mordecai The tourism we have Ogada been practicing in Kenya since Roosevelt visited in 1909 is There is no doubt that the current slump in tourism been sparked by the Covid-19 pandemic, but the full abnormal. Who in the has truth about it will only occur to us once we start trying fashion some sort of revival. Post Covid revival of the industry has the bottle totourism industry around the world will be a brutal to step up and embrace expose of intellectual strength (or emptiness) of the involved. If we are honest with ourselves, Kenyans’ travel needs? practitioners we will admit that our entire tourism industry has been

built around an antiquated western view of the African “Safari”. It is visible in the strange khaki uniforms and safari boots practitioners wear to hide their own beautiful identities, the green and brown colours of the vehicles to try and make everything about Kenya ‘invisible’ except the “breathtaking” animals and landscapes. Even in officialdom, we cannot escape the obsession with the foreign “arrival” numbers, which we cling to as though it is the elixir of life. What is an “arrival” in real terms, other than immigration data? Never mind that these include some vagabonds who will not spend anything close to what Ogada will spend on fuelling his car or eating and accommodation on a long weekend road trip with his family. Even the high end ‘arrivals’ spend precious little cash incountry. The song ‘Hakuna Matata’ may now be passé but the smiling, intellectually vacuous engagement with tourists that it espouses is still the norm. Who in the industry has the bottle to step up and embrace Kenyans’ travel needs? Who will organise a product tailored for the inexplicable rush of Luo people to Nyanza in December? The exodus of Luhya people to ‘western’ during the circumcision season? The rush

of Maa people to their homelands during ‘graduations’ of Morans? The blue-clad crowds of Kikuyu people on a prayer pilgrimage round Mt Kenya every December? Doesn’t anyone imagine that Kenyans from other ethnic groups just might be interested in partaking in these rituals to learn about others? National cohesion anyone? Our tourism sector still has little time for anything that doesn’t interest foreigners, because somehow, local patronage doesn’t seem to count. If foreign tourists are even interested in viewing the most miserable members of our society, we are always willing to even organise slum tours. Tourism can greatly uplift, educate and edify our people, but it has infinite potential to defile our society as well. I have had the privilege of serving on the board of our national tourism regulator, and seen these issues up close. We must push for the opening of our road and rail travel before pushing for flights to bring foreign people who are still traumatised by the catastrophe that has befallen them. We suffer an identity crisis The Covid-19 pandemic is like a harsh spotlight traversing the globe, ruthlessly exposing the identities (or lack thereof in peoples and nations). My profession has afforded me the opportunity to travel to several countries, and one of the most fulfilling touristic experiences for me was India. None of the many things I ate, experienced or purchased were for my benefit. I found art, food, and culture that people did for themselves, and my presence just coincided with it. Where in Kenya could one find such a phenomenon? Tourism around the world is suffering from travel restrictions, but Kenya’s has the additional burden of an identity crisis. We are like slaves wondering what to do after a fortuitous fire has burned down the plantation where we were toiling. We don’t even know that we can now grow food to eat in those same cotton fields. The truth in that harsh assessment lies in the fact that nobody in the industry has the fibre for frank introspection, and that an outsider has to write an article stating the obvious to people who know better. We expose our limitations when we borrow irrelevant phrases like “the new normal” to describe this miasma. The tourism we have been practicing in Kenya since Roosevelt visited in 1909 is abnormal. It is the hubrisfuelled childish dream of the western elite from over a century ago. We built an entire structure and industry around it that has now collapsed, so those with a handle on identity and the intellectual fortitude to grasp it can now go back to ‘normal’.

The Standard

DIPLOMAT‘S LENS

Amb Hazem Al Shabat of the State of Palestine vows to raise profile of new engagements of the two nations By Nadine Hosny Before I came to Kenya, I had been posted to Tanzania for two and a half years. The time gave me insights into East Africa. I have only been here for a year, but already I can tell that this country is special. This may come as a surprise to many, but the first place I lived when I arrived in Kenya was Nairobi’s Central Business District. I stayed in the CBD for almost two months while finalising the preparations to establish the embassy for the State of Palestine here. Unfortunately, Nairobi city centre suffers from an exaggerated and frankly inaccurate perception of being troublesome for foreigners. During the day to the early hours of the evening, I would walk around freely without being harassed – the people I encountered were quite friendly. What struck me most were the commercial enterprises and industries concentrated in and around Nairobi. It reflects a very vibrant economy and makes the country an attractive place for entrepreneurs and investors. I have been asked what I like most about Kenya and my answer has always been the same: The people. Kenyans are unlike any I have come across. While Kenya has beautiful beaches, forests and diverse wildlife, what is tremendously distinctive is the character of its people. I find Kenyans forthcoming and confident. Their pride in their national identity is

noticeable and is something I admire. They are hardworking. I don’t think I have ever met people who are so driven and dedicated to the point of walking long distances at times to save on money or to avoid the horrible rush-hour traffic in order to get to work. This shows the resilient nature of Kenyans. Travel during the pandemic Although the virus has hindered social gatherings, technology has now become more useful in helping people stay in touch with their social circles. Thankfully, there are places still open so that one can experience the beauty that this country has to

Forget the stereotypes, Kenya is glorious PHOTOS: [COURTESY]

offer. Nairobi National Park is one of them. I have visited the park a few times during this time and saw the magnificent wildlife. This proves, beyond reasonable doubt that Nairobi, as a city, has a lot to offer despite the troubling times. There are lots of experiences and activities one can engage in while still being mindful of their safety and health. Back home in Palestine, we are also a country that relies on tourism as a major part of our economy. We have approximately two million tourists a year so we relate greatly to the losses that Kenya has faced in the tourism sector. We have also been one of the first governments, like Kenya, to react swiftly in implementing preventive and cautionary measures to mitigate the spread of the virus; maintaining

social distancing, launching curfew hours and so on. We have had our successes and challenges seen in the statistics. We hope the measures Kenya has in place will bear fruit. The people are feeling the pinch the virus has inflicted on the economy and their lives. Now, it is the government’s responsibility to ensure measures on the ground are for the benefit of the people.

Favourite locations In my short time here, I have visited Narok, Naivasha, Mombasa, Shompole, and Limuru town – I have not travelled as much as I would have liked in the year that I have been here. We have to balance between diplomatic obligations and responsibilities and exploring the host country. My most memorable moment so far was in Limuru town. I was walking through Limuru market and I saw all the fruit vendors, the blacksmiths, the carpenters, the locksmiths – all the functions that one normally see and associate with an Arab town market. I felt completely at home! There are many stereotypes about Kenya and I find it unacceptable for a country as glorious as this to be viewed in negative light. I believe that it is our duty, not just as diplomats, but also as people who have lived here, to share our good stories and experiences and be sufficiently vocal in changing this. We owe it to Kenyans. Kisumu and Turkana are two places that are top of my list of places to visit. My priority, however, with the ease in travel restrictions, is witnessing the Wildebeest Migration, one of the great wonders of the world.

The Standard

SPECIAL FEATURE

If you still assume that travel is elitist and expensive, we have a few facts to prove that the reality is decidedly different.

Jionee Kenya on a shoestring bugdet

Peter Muiruri travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Kenyans can be a patriotic lot but may need some nudging when it comes to enjoying the vast beauty of their country. There is the common misnomer that one has to break the bank to enjoy the varied repertoire of natural sights that Kenya has to offer. “Tourism is for foreigners”, many say. This though, need not be the case, at least not if one is willing to make their own memories rather than try to match the high spenders. The best vacations could very well be be the cheapest. Look at it this way. A mother asked her daughter to name some of the gifts she had received on her birthdays. The young girl could not count past four items. However, when asked about her favourite holiday locations, she could not keep quiet. In the words of the mother who relayed this story: “Travel is refreshing, rejuvenating and works magic on people of all ages.” As the country’s travel industry slowly wakes up after months of a pandemicinduced coma, various players have come up with competitive offers meant to give Kenyans a chance to tour their country. You may have seen the many fliers coming your way through your friends’ WhatsApp updates. Well, many just ‘flew’ by after a quick glance. To others, these messages were godsend as they hopped from one local destination to another. I have visited all parks Naomi Kamau, a cultural and conservation enthusiast likes to tour Kenya on the cheap. So far, she has visited almost all the national parks in Kenya. She has also bagged all the wildlife conservancies within Masai Mara. Most of these travels were achieved during the Covid-19 pandemic period and her resolve is to visit every conceivable corner of the country before venturing overseas. “It is our country but Kenyans don’t think visiting it is within their reach. Part of this reasoning is because most of the tourism developments in the country were developed to cater for foreign visi-

Photographer David Macharia has perfected budget travel tors. There are few government-owned facilities where locals can be accommodated,” says Kamau However, she says, Kenyan investors have started to develop budget facilities that are affordable to Kenyans visiting

Naomi Kamau is on a quest to visit all parks in Kenya [Courtesy]

wildlife conservation areas. Besides, Kamau argues that one does not have to stay in a name-brand facility to enjoy a holiday. “The Kenya Wildlife Service can intensify the marketing of their guesthouses

within national parks for more Kenyans to visit. One can also try home-based tourism where locals can arrange for camping sites and share the cost of meals. Such an arrangement could end up costing you about Sh1,000 a day per person,” she says.

The Standard

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BUDGET TIPS You do not need to be rich to travel Let us repeat that. You do not need to be rich to travel. Here’s how to move around on the cheap:

Live like the locals: Our top tip for

[Courtesy] [Dan Mchoraji]

David Macharia, a professional photographer, likes to spend time away from the studio touring wildlife conservation areas. He is at peace in the Chalbi Desert in Marsabit and the Central Island in Lake Turkana. Holiday costs, he says, have to do with a person’s preferences. “Travelling can be expensive depending on what you are looking for. There is luxury travel with corresponding lodges and tented camps for high-income earners. Nevertheless, in Masai Mara, you can still get all the services with at least Sh14,000 for three days. The game viewing experience is the same for those who spent the night in top-of-the-range accommodation and those who camped under the stars,” says Macharia. Travel against the tide Anne Murungi, a career hotelier and lead consultant at Hospitality Consult, says touring the country on a budget has to do with planning, budgeting and ensuring that one gets value for their money. Murungi, who has put down Rusinga Island, Arabuko Sokoke Forest, Chalbi Desert, Lamu and Marsabit on her bucket list, says in addition to planning, it is good to understand the seasons when travel is cheapest. “I would, for instance, avoid going to the Masai Mara between July and October, the park’s peak season, if I have previously witnessed the wildebeest migra-

“Timing is everything so learn to book everything in advance. Where you can, avoid the weekend and bag a better deal during the week,” Josiah Kabiru (pictured top), a professional guide and director of Safari Warriors travel company.

tion. I also try to avoid the coast after December 15 until January 3 or thereabouts. I also shop around for hotel properties and tour operators with special offers, as well as online promotions,” she says. However, Murungi cautions that one should never confuse ‘cheap’ with a good deal, but rather the value for money one gets in such a deal. If one plans to use a tour operator, for example, she says it is better to check if they belong to an association, meaning they fall under some form of a legal agency. “It is good to research about the destination to see what else you can enjoy or see other than what the tour operator suggests. Sometimes you can also build your own excursions at the destination depending on your interests,” she says. Transport and accommodation rank as the top concerns for anyone intending to tour the country. However, some Kenyans

are known to spend thousands of shillings on a weekend binge than they would have spent would they have chosen to travel out of the city on vacation. In addition, there is the notion that the word ‘travel’ connotes heading to a far-off getaway. Again, the best holiday experiences might just be at your doorstep. Naivasha, for example, offers one of the most accessible holiday destinations. The destination does not require special utility vehicles (4WDs). Your family car will do just fine, what with the ongoing infrastructure upgrades around the country, as would public transport. In addition, one does not need accommodation in a high-end hotel. The area has affordable camping grounds about, most with a view to the lake. But then there are some Kenyans who are averse to ‘bare ground’ camping. Worry not. Naivasha has enough homes listed on apps such as Airbnb. These are usually cheaper than contemporary hotel rooms. From here, the picturesque Hell’s Gate National Park is a stone’s throw away from the main hospitality establishments. Late last year, the Kenya Tourism Board unveiled 15 outstanding tourism offerings dubbed Magical Kenya Signature Experiences. Among these are Kitengela Glass, Kereita Forest and Karen Blixen Museum – all accessible within less than an hour from the city that provide family adventure at affordable rates. Other popular holiday locations include the Nairobi National Park, Karura Forest and Ngong Hills.

travelling on a budget is to ask locals for advice. They should be able to direct you to moderately priced accommodation and authentic restaurants. Rather than going to tourist-filled restaurants that serve up mediocre Western food, go to local spots for a taste of authentic meals. The restaurants will be busier and the food fresher not to mention cheaper. Locals are also best placed to send you to off-the-beaten-track attractions. Travel during the off-season: Not only will you stay away from the crowds but you will also minimise travel expenses. If, for instance, the crowds are heading to the Mara, think Samburu; and if they head to the beach, head to the mountains. Book smart: Timing is everything so learn to book everything in advance. Where you can, avoid the weekend and bag a better deal during the week. Travel cheap: Public transportation options can save you a lot of money over taking taxis. We also recommend taking a road or train trip. Whether you drive your own car, rent a vehicle or carpool with friends, hitting the open road may be cheaper than flying. The train is also an affordable hassle-free option. Group travel: It is wiser to travel with a small group of friends or family as you can split the costs of hotels and rental cars when you travel. So do not be shy about squeezing into a small motel room or renting an entire home on Airbnb if it is less expensive per person. Cook your own meals: The best way to save money on the road is to cook your own meals. You do not have to cook every meal because it is important to enjoy local delicacies, but cooking even one meal a day can save you a lot of cash. If you stay in a hostel or an apartment, you get access to a kitchen where you can cook your own meals. Volunteer while you travel: Boutique hotels and family-run establishments can use a hand. Volunteer when the opportunity arises to save money on your living costs. Roof differently: Budget travellers can save money on lodging in various ways. Couch Surfing is the cheapest way. It loosely refers to staying with hosts while you travel. Unlike Airbnb, couch surfing travellers do not pay to stay in someone’s home. Good couch surfers “repay” their hosts with fun interactions and potential friendship. So successful is the concept that is has morphed into a global homestay and social networking service accessible via a website and mobile app. If you do not mind welcoming strangers into your home, a house swap guarantees you a free place to stay. For those not fussy about sharing, then hostel accommodation is an option. You can also find good accommodation in the city centre allowing you easy access to the main attractions by foot.

The Standard

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Overcoming fears and phobias to scale Africa’s second highest peak all to raise money for charity

By Muthoni Wahome travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Of poop and sickness atop a mountain: I pooped on Mt Kenya. You read that right, I literally took a dump atop a mountain. That was in July 2017. After a long soul searching, I packed my bags to undertake an activity I had always wanted to do, climb Mt Kenya. It was a birthday gift to me. I had done some research on what it took to climb a mountain and felt mentally ready, never mind that I had never hiked before, not even to Mt Longonot. My starting point was Sirimon Gate in Nanyuki and off I went with a porter and cook in tow. The two were to be my companions for the next three days as I made my way to conquer the mountain which lies at 4,985 above sea level. It was a smooth start from Sirimon to the first camp – Old Moses – where we spent the night. The altitude was moderate and I thought to myself, this is easier than I thought. Day two, I was up at 6am, after hardly getting any shut eye due to the cold. I usually have trouble getting quality sleep on a regular day and here I was in a sleeping bag, foreign place and minus ten degrees. Bout of mountain sickness At about 7am we started the climb to the second camp, some 15 kilometres away. As soon as we started the walk, I started feeling a bit light-headed. It felt like I had picked some serious infection. Oh God, I panicked! I can’t fall ill now! I suspected it was a case of mountain sickness. I had read about it and from my research, people die from it! You could be an expert mountain climber, but suffer from mountain sickness all the time when in high altitude. My guide asked me to shed off some clothes. I felt better and almost immediately regained my normal self. We also took short steps and walked slower for the next hour. It was a warm day and eventually I was able to shed all the layers. Our pace was now brisk and by 2pm we had reached the second site – Shimpton’s camp. I had lost appetite (apparently high altitude slows metabolism) and opted to take a nap to snack at 4pm followed by dinner at 7pm. I was required to be up at 2.30am to have a light breakfast of black tea and biscuit before we could start our journey to the summit at 3am.

I pooped on Mt Kenya for a good cause

The Standard

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Shimpton’s Camp being at the base of the mountain is extremely cold. I somehow missed this information during my research. Maybe the reviewers did not find it necessary to mention that the degrees could get to minus 15 here! I couldn’t get any sleep and the altitude did not make it any easier as I now was getting migraine attacks. At 2.30am, I was up and dressed up for the mountain peak. After the light breakfast, we set off. Other groups of people who were there were also up and ready for the trek. I was the only person who was hiking solo. Climbers are advised to start the journey at 3am or thereabout so as to be at the peak at sunrise (6am) Roughly 20 minutes into the journey up the mountain, I started sweating. I felt like I was choking with a bout of nausea! I alerted my guide and he told me to take off a layer of my clothing. I removed a pair of warm pants and a fleece top. I was left with two thermal pants, a warm waterproof jacket, a thermal top and a light fleece top. I unzipped the jacket. I felt relieved and we resumed our slow walk. All along other trekkers were passing us by. Thankfully, unlike the Everest where hikers can only follow one track, I could step aside and even have a seat on a rock to catch my breath. There were patches of snow here and there. When the sickness started I also felt a strong urge to move my bowels but I tried to ignore it. “There is no bush here at the mountain where I could hide and do my business,” I tried to reason with myself.

The writer (in a purple knitted beanie) pictured with the 28 summiters who undertook the mission to raise funds to build a safe house. [Courtesy]

Reason guide insisted I pack a roll of tissue paper However, as the “sickness” overpowered me, so did the urge to pass stool. The tipping point was when I felt like my whole body was shutting down and I was unable to even walk. “I need to use the bathroom!” I blurted out to my guide with no shame. I guess my survival instincts kicked in at the moment. His response was curt: “And what are you waiting for?” I hurriedly dragged myself a few steps away and conducted my business as he looked away. The relief after was unimaginable. I felt alive and whole again. I also now understood why my guide had insisted on me carrying a roll of toilet paper in my backpack from the start of the trek at Sirimon Gate. Fast forward to December 2019 and I was back at the mountain. This time I was among a group of 28 human rights defenders who, together under the National Coalition of Human Rights, Kenya were on a mission to raise money with the aim, among them to build a safe house for Human Rights Defenders. I was here courtesy of my employer, Hivos East Africa. The starting point was the same, through the Sirimon Gate, and it would take us three days at the mountain, and two days of travel, December 9-13. Day two’s trek from Old Moses Camp to Shipton’s Camp was excruciating not only for the three children (aged 8, 11 and 12), but also the adults. All for a worthy cause At the end of the day, a team that had begun with a lot of excitement and fervour was an exhausted lot of children crying and adults on their tipping point. As the head of the defenders coalition, Kamau Ngugi had kept reminding us, that every step we took, was for a worthy cause – for the human rights defenders. And what a joy it was that on December 12, Jamhuri day, 14 of us (out of the 28 climbers) we hoisted the Kenyan flag on the third highest peak of Mt Kenya, Lenana peak. It was a moment of joy for all, never mind that I wasn’t spared mountain sickness yet again. This time was also special as I summited together with my brother and sister. And my 11-year-old nephew also made it to Shimpton’s Camp.

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HIDDEN GEMS Run with marathon champs at Iten

Kenya: Experiences that excite By Tamara Britten travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Our country is broken up into manageable tour circuits that make it easy to criss-cross a region looking for its prized attractions. Here are some bucket-list adventures to start you off. Meditate at Nairobi’s Buddhist temple Sometimes, in nonstop Nairobi, it’s important to take a little time out. The capital – hectic and loud – stimulates all the senses. Here is its antidote: a place to calm the mind and soothe the spirit. Deep in leafy Loresho is Nairobi’s Buddhist Temple. Anura Perera of the George Phylnormel Foundation built the Theravada Buddhist Centre in 1999 in memory of his parents, George and Norma Perera. A philanthropist, Anura also financed a project to deliver 50 wheelchairs to disabled Kenyans and constructed 55 houses for those who lost their homes in political conflicts. Under the direction of chief monk Bhante Wimala and resident monk Sobhitha Bhikku, the centre continues to provide humanitarian help to those in need, such as building wells and providing eye care. The centre, open daily, welcomes people of all faiths. Here you can sit in the meditation hall, stroll around the stupa and meander through manicured gardens. Should you wish to join a group, there are meditation sessions, reading groups, Dhamma talks and a well-stocked library. But perhaps the greatest joy of being at the temple is simply to pause in one of the private places around the garden and to breathe in the tranquillity. The gardens reverberate with birdsong; tropical flowers bloom from lush foliage; water trickles over stone. Saffron-robed monks step through the space, at times chanting and at other times moving in silence. Here your whole being slows down and you feel tension dissipate. You can meditate, releasing your thoughts and clearing your mind, or you can reflect on your feelings in peace and serenity. You can read a book or recite a poem. You can dwell on nature or stare at the sky. Regardless of how long you spend here or what you do, you are sure to leave with a sense of peace. Quench your adrenaline thirst at Sagana

Have you dreamt of catapulting from a crane or rafting the rapids? Would you like to whistle down a waterfall or glide down natural slides? Do you love to fly like a fox or plunge from a cliff? Head for Sagana and your dreams will come true. On the banks of the Tana River, Kenya’s longest river, is a town known for most of its life – if it was known at all – as a little industrial centre. How that has changed! Adventure sports burst onto Sagana’s scene and the face of the place was changed forever. First on site was the Savage family, who established Savage Wilderness in 1990. Enticed by the frothing water, the team initiated a bunch of white-water rafting activities. With classes of II to V rapids, the Tana River has some of Kenya’s longest drops and currents that will set your heart racing. Jump in your raft and hit the rapids for an afternoon, a day or a week. Other companies were quick to see the significance of the site and the river is now home to a bunch of companies offering a vast selection of adventure sports. You can rush down the river in a kayak, on a tube or in an inflatable raft. You can slide down the rocks or leap from their tops. You can bungee jump and you can mountain bike. You can zip line over a waterfall or balance on a stand-up paddleboard beneath it. You can climb up a cliff, abseil down it or throw yourself off it into the foaming pools below. For those who truly are adventurous, why not try it all? Take the adrenaline junkie challenge and undertake a combo of hair-raising experiences. At the end of the day, when your heart is thumping and your muscles shaking, sit on the banks of the river, gaze at the beauty of the site and relax with an ice-cold beverage.

Kenya is rightly famous for its record-smashing marathon runners – and what could be more of a thrill than running with them? Fresh from forced cabin fever, it is time to head for Iten to train with the best. Iten sits atop a striking escarpment, the land before it plunging jaw-droppingly into Kerio Valley far below. But despite the extraordinary beauty of the site, its waterfalls and gorges, wildlife and caves aren’t the biggest attraction for visitors. Iten has a reputation greater even than this: it’s home to Kenya’s marathon champions. In October 2019, the running world as a whole held its breath as Eliud Kipchoge broke the twohour marathon barrier, running a record one hour, 59 minutes and 40 seconds. However, this eight-time marathon winner and three-time Olympic medallist is only one of many Kenyan marathon champions. Watch any of the major races around the world and you’ll see Kenyans posing on podiums and snapping up medals. The majority of these marathon winners come from Iten – and those who aren’t born here come here to train. There are training camps aplenty in the region. Some are managed by former marathon winners; others by the coaches who coach them. Churning out next year’s champions, these camps are elite and professional. Most famous is the High Altitude Training Centre. With a fully kitted out gym and a ream of staff including instructors, coaches and physiotherapists, this place will tighten, tone and train all who enter its doors. The area is home to plenty more training camps and training groups and you’re sure to find one that suits your purpose. For total immersion in the running world, stay at a training camp. Should you prefer a bit of time out, choose to stay at one of the many guesthouses or lodges nearby and give yourself a breather. Possibly, just possibly, when you’ve trained with the best, you’ll be ready to enter one of the famous marathon races and compete with the professionals.

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HIDDEN GEMS Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Take a boat to Ruko Community Conservancy

As you gaze across the gleaming waters of Lake Baringo you might see, far in the distance, a small island. Ruko Community Conservancy, not only home to endangered Rothschild giraffes, holds the key to peace in the region. Lake Baringo, one of only two of Kenya’s fresh water Rift Valley lakes, has a surface area of 130 square kilometres. The lake is home to more than 470 species of birds and made the Guinness Book of Records for recording the highest number of bird species seen in 24 hours in 1986 – a record that remains unbroken. The lake has several islands – one of which boasts Ruko Community Conservancy.

Discover a painted church in the Chalbi Desert

The Chalbi Desert is one of the hottest and driest parts of Kenya, yet deep within it is a hidden gem: a church built of rock, its walls adorned with vivid Biblical paintings. With an area of around 100,000 square kilometres, extreme heat and arid climate, the Chalbi Desert is considered the only true desert in East Africa. Stretching from Lake Turkana to the Ethiopian border, the desert is a bleak stretch of sheer sand broken infrequently by clumps of hardy grasses and the odd rock. Occasional dust storms sweep across the sand, blurring the atmosphere and clouding the air. Meaning ‘bare and salty’ in the Gabbra language, Chalbi, once a lake, has fossilised remains of fish buried in its sand. Only the toughest species survive here. Camels, known as ships of the desert and able to live for months without water, are the only animals able to cross this barren land. Around the desert’s edges, the odd ostrich or oryx is occasionally spotted. Nothing else moves but the people of this extreme region and even they, knowing its foibles and dangers, rarely venture far from their village or well. Yet in this harsh land is a place of wonder. Kalacha Catholic Church, its walls of volcanic rock, stands in the sweeping sands. Less than 20km from the Ethiopian border, the church is shaped like a pentagon; shaded outhouses form a makeshift school. Inside is a revelation. The walls are painted with colourful and dramatic Bible stories. Depictions of both Old and New Testament tales are found here, artistically painted and imaginatively represented. The people of the Bible have dark skin and almond shaped eyes; angels have wings extending from their faces; vivid halos glow around the heads of the saints. African animals populate the stories. Lions, elephants, giraffes and flamingos can all be seen in these striking murals. Drive across this land at your peril. Pack plenty of water and make sure your mechanical skills are up to scratch. Then take your courage in your hands and hit the desert. You’ll be wowed by what you see.

The Il Chamus and Pokot ethnic groups had been in conflict for many years when, in 2006, their elders came up with a plan. With the help of the Northern Rangelands Trust, a consortium of community conservancies, they decided to form a conservancy. Unperturbed by the lack of animals on the island, they brought eight Rothschild giraffes by boat. Although this species of giraffe is endemic to the area and was once widespread, it had been obliterated by the conflict. It’s estimated that the population of Rothschild giraffes has dropped to fewer than 670 of which around 40 per cent are in Kenya and 60 per cent in Uganda. This valiant effort reintroduced the species to the land of its home.

Learn to be a yoga teacher on Lamu Island Lamu might be home to a historic old town and famed for dreamy sunset dhow cruises, but did you know you can train to be a yoga teacher on the island? A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Lamu Island is endowed with just the right mood for yoga. Wander around the atmospheric old town inhaling centuries of chronicles; perch atop the sand dunes breathing sea air as you meditate; stroll along the idyllic beach stretching out muscles sore from hours of asana. The many open-air studios and shalas are perfect spaces for physical yoga classes, while the breezy Arabic houses are welcoming venues for discussions on yoga’s spiritual side. Founded by Leyla and Payal, yoga teachers of international repute, Karuna Yoga Journeys is grounded in compassion and community wellness; their courses and retreats are certified by Yoga Alliance. While they offer a 100-hour yin course and a 300-hour comprehensive yoga course at exotic locations around the world, it’s their 200-hour yoga teacher training – the foundation of all yoga teachers’ training – that takes place on the island of Lamu.

[Courtesy]

The peacemakers formed a team of rangers from both tribes. They named the conservancy Ruko, an amalgamation of the names of the two areas: Rugus and Komolion. Visit this exciting conservation project and you can take boat trips on the lake, go bird watching and explore the island. The small fee you pay the conservancy goes to good causes, being split between conservation programmes and community projects like education and healthcare. The joy starts when you step from the mainland onto a boat and chug gently across the luminous lake. Your heart will truly lift when you reach the island and see these giraffes that not only stand for the preservation of a species but also symbolise peace in the area.

This 200-hour immersive programme happens over 20 days and gives a comprehensive grounding in teaching yoga. While teachers certified by this course are qualified to teach Vinyasa Flow, there’s so much more to this teacher training. You’ll discuss the philosophy of yoga and read words of ancient wisdom; you’ll study anatomy and learn how the body works; you’ll observe authentic alignment and practise creative sequencing; you’ll experiment with breath work and moving the body with the rhythm of the breath. Other modules include trauma-sensitive yoga, yoga for pregnancy, laughter yoga and acro yoga. The course prepares you for the responsibility of leading others in a healthier way of life, as well as giving you the joy of three weeks on the island of Lamu. You’ll leave with a sense of peace and an understanding of the balance between body, mind and spirit. Who knows? Perhaps when you’ve gained some experience as a yoga teacher, you’ll be invited to return to Lamu to teach at the world famous Lamu Yoga Festival. The writer is the founder of www.karibukenya.co.uk

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CONSERVATION WATCH Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Sustaining life in Tsavo Wild fires are ravaging Kenya’s largest park, but that is the least of worries for the elephants living in this fragile ecosystem By Travelog reporter

n most places around the world, four seasons dominate the calendar. In Tsavo, however, time is charted by the rains: A lush beginning to the year segues into a short dry spell in February and March, followed by a rainy season in April and May. This marks the beginning of another dry spell, which reaches its peak in September and into October, before the rains close out the year on another green note. While Tsavo has been blessed with record rains of late, as quickly as the heavy clouds roll in, they pass off over the horizon, revealing crystal blue skies. The sun’s rays reflecting off the damp earth and small pools being the only hint of the storm that just passed. And, right now, the sun is beating down mercilessly on us all, making the sound of rushing water music to our ears, not least to the four-legged visitors that amble up to take their fill from our troughs. Many are known to us, named affectionately after their physical attributes by the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust elephant keepers. There’s Limpy, a bull elephant successfully treated for a snare wound a few years ago, One

SWT FACT FILE Founded in 1977 Operates 24 boreholes and eight water bowsers, delivering millions of water a year to wildlife annually 1, 979 school children attended a free field trip by the Trust in 2019 Rescued 261 orphaned elephants to date Attended to 6, 660 injured and sick wild animals to date with KWS Operates 15 mobile de-snaring teams with KWS

Tusk, and Masikio, who has a bent ear, while others are new visitors, drawn by the scent of fresh water from the troughs, which are regularly topped up with up to 20,000 litres at a time. This is the Sheldrick Water for Wildlife Project and, as the name suggests, its primary purpose is to provide water relief to wild animals living in the Greater Tsavo Conservation Area, a vast arid region that historically suffers from limited rainfall. Here, the dry seasons are tough and all life revolves around water; matriarchs must show their mettle and elephants travel vast distances in search of food, all the while anchored to limited water sources. Not all, however, can strike the balance right and during the devastating drought of 2016 – 2017, which ravaged across Kenya, up to 400 elephants perished in Tsavo, a toll not seen since the 1970s. Conservation education Many calves, left behind after their mothers perished, were rescued by the Trust who are best known within Kenya and the world over, for their Orphans’ Project. Every day (until recently, when the charity closed its doors to the visiting public in response to the coronavirus), the charity welcomes hundreds of tourists and local school children to their rust-red mud bath at their Nairobi Nursery to watch the orphaned elephants frolic and learn about the threats facing the species, which include increasing humanwildlife conflict, ivory poaching and habitat loss. Yet while visitors flock to see these famous elephants, much less is known about the charity’s other conservation initiatives which work in tandem with the Orphans’ Project, providing conservation education, mitigating human-wildlife conflict, alleviating animal suffering and monitoring national parks. These wider projects are about securing a future, not only for the rescued orphans, but for all of Kenya’s wildlife and, as Ihumba

Head Keeper Benjamin Kyalo says, “Land is becoming smaller every day for wildlife. People have grabbed the land that used to be for elephants. In some cases, you have human-wildlife conflict where elephant cross into places elephants are living, using the routes that were previously used by their ancestors.” Water for elephants In fact, the charity operates nine interconnected programmes across Kenya in partnership with the Kenya Wildlife Service, local NGOs and communities – one of which is their Water for Wildlife initiative. Water provision took on a new meaning in 2004 with the purchase of the charity’s first bowser, after rain water tanks ran dry during the dry season. Since then, and having proved its worth over and over again, the Trust has grown its fleet to eight bowsers which, during the dry season, make daily trips back and forth between the Athi River and 24 boreholes drilled by the Trust and water troughs they have positioned in key areas. Benjamin adds, “During the dry season, we always see queues of elephants coming to drink water. They have learned it’s a safe place and have mastered the lorries and the time, converging at the waterholes to wait for the load. We don’t hear what they say, but the way we see their reaction, it’s as if they say “thank you so much”, giving us so much respect”. Spread out across Tsavo, these boreholes have been placed in locations far from human settlements to avoid the risk of conflict that could otherwise arise between wild animals, people and livestock, providing elephants and all wild animals with access to ample water. Powered by wind or solar energy, maintenance staff undertake weekly cleans and upkeep, including any necessary repairs, to ensure the boreholes remain productive and effective at all times. In the dry season, their work is undertaken under the watchful and

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CONSERVATION WATCH curious eyes of herds of zebra, hartebeest, eland and elephants that congregate around the troughs and pans, which serve as lifelines to wildlife in these hard times. On the boundaries of Tsavo National Park, a crowd of a different sort gathers; schoolchildren with their foreheads and noses pressed flush against glass, mouths agape at the several species of fish that dart past. SWT Community Outreach Officer Samuel Munyao leads today’s 25-strong group of intrepid student explorers around the glass observatory in Mzima Springs, which offers spectacular underwater views of hippos, crocodiles and fish. Mitigating human-wildlife conflict It’s part of the Trust’s free school field trip initiative for school children in counties that border Tsavo, including Kitui, Makueni and Taita Taveta, that are most threatened by human-wildlife conflict. Schools and communities here face day to day challenges with wildlife, especially elephants, and the Trust is keen to communicate proven methods of mitigating conflict, provide conservation education and enable children who couldn’t otherwise access the park an opportunity to see their wildlife heritage up close. Armed with knowledge about Tsavo’s wild animals that borders on encyclopaedia, it is Samuel’s role to inspire a passion for wildlife that will go far beyond the field trip, harnessing individuals’ desire to consider wildlife and the environment in their future life decisions. It’s something he’s deeply passionate about. “Communities that live next to the national parks are the ones that experience most of the human-wildlife conflict. When you conduct field trips, you are trying to tell them the importance of wildlife resources. We are coming with conservation strategies that take into account the interests of the locals and ensuring they benefit on an ecological and economical

basis.” Nairobi Head Keeper Edwin Lusichi, who leads the educational public viewing at the Nairobi Nursery, echoes this. “Some students don’t know why wildlife is important. We share how to co-exist with animals in a peaceful way. Educating them on the need to conserve, to protect wildlife in general, why and how these animals need to be protected so that when the children grow up, they are growing knowing that these animals are important, these animals need to be protected and cared for so that we can have a better future with a younger generation that knows how to protect and care for wildlife.” Every month, before the pandemic, the SWT organised up to 15 free field trips and, depending on where the school is located, students visit the northern or southern sections of Tsavo East National Park, or Tsavo West National Park with its picturesque beauty, wildlife and many geological points of interest. Since many wild animals are active early in the morning, the field trips similarly start early, with excited, chattering students piling into the bus before setting off on their wild adventure. School trips encouraged Once in the park, the children are treated to what is almost always their first ever game drive, many of them seeing animals that they have only read about in the classroom or heard about from their parents. For those visiting Tsavo East, they also get the incredible opportunity to visit orphaned elephants at one of the SWT’s Reintegration Units, while students visiting Tsavo West National Park are able to witness the vast lava flow as well as the ever-magical Mzima Springs. Back at the waterhole in Ithumba, Benjamin believes all Kenyans have a role to play in the preservation of Kenya’s wild places and spaces. “There could come a time in future generations when we could see an extinction of elephants, like the dinosaurs. We are taking care of nature, but we can all join hands in making a difference”.

Nairobi Head Keeper Edwin Lusichi

Community field trip

Community Outreach Officer Samuel Munyao

[PHOTOS: COURTESY]

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WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Restoring the Roan’s ranges This antelope has been cited as ‘under threat’ of extinction due to extensive poaching and habitat loss

travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

A recent initiative by the government draws up a rescue plan for this unique antelope that once freely roamed the savannah. The roan antelope is one of the largest species of its kind. During this year’s World Wildlife Day celebration in Kenya, there was much hype about it with plans to increase its numbers at the Ruma National Park – its current habitat. In the past, this animal that was widely distributed across the African savannah in nearly 34 countries is among 33 mammals, 356 plant species and 28 bird species whose survival is threatened. The species is extinct in Burundi, Eritrea and Gambia. It was also extinct in Swaziland, but was reintroduced in Mkhaya, a privately-owned nature reserve. Over the past 50 years, the roan antelope range land has been converted to farmland and settlement areas. Humans

also poach them for game meat and other cultural reasons. Their horns are valued musical instruments for the communities that inhabit their range land. Though they are currently classified by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) as of ‘least concern’, if this persists, their population will decline.

Conservation efforts Various countries in eastern Africa have taken different approaches in conserving the species such as the creation of functioning education and awareness departments to sensitise the locals. Anti-poaching personnel have also been deployed in regions where there is a major threat to enhance the security of the antelopes. Routine removal of snares have been undertaken in areas where locals put such devices to trap the animals. Wildlife legislations that list the roan as threatened or endangered have also been enacted. In Kenya, the creation of the Lambwe Valley Game Reserve in 1966, which later became the Ruma National Park, was part of the conservation measures. This

further provides legal protection of the species and the park is fenced with a chain-link wire to minimise human encroachment and deployment of snares by poachers. The introduction of the white and black rhinos in the park further boosted security for the roans with the increase in personnel and also the upgrading of the fence to an electric one in 2011 or 2012. As a result, there has been a decline in the number of snares and the people straying in the park. During the international Wildlife Day, Tourism CS Najib Balala launched the recovery and action plan that aims to reestablish a viable population of the roans in Ruma park. The plan identifies the threats facing the species and guides on intervention measures needed to address them to ensure effective conservation and management.

Concerning trend The roan antelope is extinct in Serengeti National Park and recent reports have also noted a decline at Kruger National Park in South Africa. In Kenya, the roan once upon a time existed in the Masai Mara National Reserve, Ithanga Hills near Thika, Lambwe Valley and in Tana River region. They were around 45 in 1971 in the Masai Mara, but by the year 1995, they became completely extinct. In 1970, a herd of 37 roans were translocated from Ithanga Hills Ranch to Shimba Hills National Reserve in Kenya but sadly, their numbers diminished to 12 just within five years. By 1985, the roans had vanished. Since 1989, the last

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By Harriet Akinyi

retreat of the roan antelope in Kenya has been Ruma National Park with numbers well below 50 animals.

[COURTESY]

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GETAWAY Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

whence you can watch aquatic life. Early mornings are the best time to witness this wonder.

What’s in your area? Travellers on transit can enjoy the exclusive comfort of these lounges as they By Ivy Waridi travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

We live in unprecedented times, with days filled with uncertainty, but our inherent craving for human connection, the fresh outdoors and the adventure it accords has only grown with the lockdown. On the bright side, spaces around us that would otherwise receive little attention are now a hit giving credence to the phrase ‘You only know what you have when you lose it’. We highlight a few places in your neighbourhood that you probably have not tried yet: Kisima Farm Never have road trips become a preferred way to exhale than they currently are. Located along the Meru-Timau highway, Kisima Farm is a remarkable yet unacknowledged spectacle. The trip on the smooth roads makes for a relaxing drive marked by other highlights including breathtakingly beautiful sightings like a snow-caps of Mt Kenya on a

clear day. But other than the mountain and outstanding countryside is the rolling rapeseed farms, used for the production of canola oil. This expansive yellow canola fields in Kisima are a must stopover much like the Kericho tea farms. Chesumot Tea Estate Speaking of Kericho tea fields, you can enjoy a visit in what many consider a work of art. Approximately 10 kilometres out of Kericho town, this green cosmos is possible on a day from the capital with a highly recommended overnight stay. Enjoy a taste of farm life and with highlights centred around a recreational dam with a floating jetty, and you can enjoy your quiet time while there. If the water calls you, enjoy a swim or practice your rowing skills on the available kayaks and a rowing boat. Take a trip to the Chesumot tea estate, and you will see more than just tea fields. Take a walk, run or horse ride around the farm in the utmost fresh air. Accommodation at the farm costs Sh12,000 for the night with the option of camping for outdoor enthusiasts, or for those keen to save a coin. One-Off Contemporary Gallery If you are an art lover or longing to get onto the art scene, this is the place to start. The One-Off Contemporary gallery located off Limuru Road, Rosslyn Lone Tree Estate, has an extensive art collection featuring talented artist from across the continent. This contemporary art gallery and sculptor garden, open from Tuesday through Sunday, displays work that gives an extra dimension to the artviewing experience. With more than 25

years of showcasing Africa’s dynamic and diverse art scene there is probably no better spot to get acquainted to art in Kenya. Browse through the gallery’s website to acquaint yourself to the artists’ biographies before your visit. In case you are wondering, this gallery is childfriendly. Koromosho Falls On the River Sosiani in Uasin Gishu County is a nature preserve that pours down a 70-metre cliff. The sound of the water gushing is the one thing that alerts you to the presence of the falls hidden in a mass of rocks and trees. Visit and get to enjoy nature as well take some time to meditate. If you are bold enough, you can dare into the cave at the bottom of the falls that bats call home. Mzima Springs The Mzima Springs located in Tsavo National Park, approximately 48 kilometres from Mtito Andei, are a set of four natural springs whose source is traced to the Chyulu Hills. You can disembark from of your car to enjoy the springs at a designated section. While wild animals rarely animals rarely visit it is wise to keep a keen out for lurking crocodiles and hippo. At Mzima, you also enjoy various tree species as well as birdlife. The highlight of the trip is an underground glass observatory from

Olepangi Farm After a suffocating existence these past few months, we all cannot wait to reconnect with nature. This family-run lodge consisting of five cottages set on 120 acres on foothills of Mt Kenya is the perfect escape. You can choose to ride horses, play croquet or simply savour a walk around the facility. Olepangi Farm is also the perfect base from which to explore other attractions including forests like Ngare Ndare and nearby ranches like Solio Ranch and Lolldaigas Hills Ranch. Look out for their full board all-inclusive rates to enjoy organic meals from a functional eco-farm that is solar powered and has perfected harvesting rainwater. Takaungu Creek It has been referred to as one of the most spectacular sections of the Kenyan North Coast in Kilifi County. Takaungu Creek in Kilifi County features a traditional Swahili village, with minimal westernise influence, nestled amongst cliffs and baobabs. Enjoy a day trip to Takaungu Creek, a walk on the small beach or a hike near the Vuma Cliffs. Kapsimotwa Gardens If you are resident of Nandi County yearning for a picnic, then consider the well-manicured Kapsimotwa Gardens located two hours from Eldoret. This spot ideal for a family outing charges Sh500 at the gate for each car. The gardens also boast two ornamental fishponds and a farmhouse whose accommodation costs Sh3,000. Note that the evening can be a little chilly especially at the hilltop so pack a windbreaker alongside your picnic treats. While here, enjoy views of the surrounding tea estates from the top of a hill that is fun hiking.

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SAVVY TRAVELLER [COURTESY]

Natalie Tewa address

PHOTOS [COURTESY]

Controversial lifestyle and travel content creator shares her entanglement with the road

vibrant and super exciting! I could live there any day if given a chance.

By Peris Wambugu travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Natalie Tewa, a social media trendsetter, who commands a huge following shares some insights of her travel experiences. Travelog: Have you ever traveled on your own? If yes, how was it? Natalie: I am yet to go on a solo trip, but it is one of the things on my bucket list. I hope to take one very soon. T: What are your travel must-haves? N: My camera (obviously), sunscreen and at least one bikini are among my favourite essentials. Headphones or a Bluetooth speaker, my supplements and my skincare products as well as a mosquito repellent are always on my travel list. T: Which is your favourite destination and why? N: Barcelona. It is a mix of beach life and concrete jungle wrapped up in one. I am quite at home at the beach but in my experience, coastal towns can be a tad slow and this can get boring. But not Barcelona. The city is

T: What has been your worst experience while traveling? N: Thank God, I have not had many crazy ones. However, one incident comes to mind. I remember this time I was detained at an airport in Mauritius for hours without any explanation. It was so frustrating because they let me leave two hours later after just going through my bag. To date, I can’t quite explain what it is that they were looking for. T: How do you travel on a budget? N: Just like most people, I like to plan my trips in advance. I am a frequent Airbnb user as the app helps me find affordable locations. Cost-sharing among friends also works if you are on a tight budget. Things are always cheaper when you are in a group. Actually, having a budget for travel works in this case and saves you the hustle of breaking the bank while on a trip. This is quite useful especially for frequent travelers like me. T: What has been your best travelling experience so far? N: My best experience was a Euro trip with Wavu Travels last year. Wavu is an agency that organises group trips for the ‘young and vibrant’. We had a blast while visiting seven countries in Europe. T: Favourite holiday activities? N: I am a big fan of exploring and getting lost in new cities but nothing beats lounging on the beach sipping cocktails. What more could a girl ask for? T: Are you travelling this season? N: Unfortunately, I have taken a break from vlogging until we are officially out of the coronavirus woods.

The Standard

By Thorn Mulli travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Every country has a must-experience restaurant whose food is so unique that it is almost impossible to reproduce. Take the Ithaa Undersea Restaurant in the Maldives, for instance, set more than 16 feet below sea level. The first of its kind, this restaurant opened in 2005. It is encased in a transparent acrylic roof and offers its 14 diners a 270-degree panoramic view of sea creatures swimming in the crystal clear waters. Then you have New Zealand’s Redwoods Treehouse where diners eat in podshaped structures hanging 32 feet above ground. If you are not easily spooked, then a stop at Eternity is a welcome treat. This Ukranian restaurant owned by undertakers is built to mirror a coffin. Its windowless space has funeral paraphernalia as decor and even the menu is inspired by death. In Kenya, the Carnivore Restaurant has, for ages, been the country’s signature dining experience for any visitor. Matching its popularity is the luxe all-inclusive Giraffe Manor which is packaged as the only place in the world where you can feed and photograph a giraffe over your breakfast table. Rich history Enter the Trout Tree Restaurant, which is located in the outskirts of Nanyuki town. I reckon every food lover should make a stop

here at least once in their lifetime. The Trout Tree Restaurant is less than 100 metres off the main Kiganjo-Nanyuki Road, and three kilometers from Nanyuki Civil Airstrip. Coincidentally, it was at one time a sister establishment to the Carnivore — established as The Tamarind Trout Farm in 1978. Now, for someone who enjoys their food, it is incredible that I had managed to repulse the charm of the apt neatly picked fish spine and head-piratical fish bone sign for ages. Thankfully, a fortnight ago, while on the road shooting content for the broadcast version of this publication, I eventually succumbed to her charm. Set on the Burguret River, Trout Tree is special for three main reasons. The first is the fact that this restaurant is literally built in a gigantic sacred fig (Mugumo) tree. One of our contributors, The Expat Mummy, in her blog describes the Sacred Fig as a “gargantuan matriarch, which envelops the restaurant, its branches supporting the wooden platforms that form the floor, its canopy sheltering us from the mists and rain”.

CULINARY ESCAPE Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

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Adventurous gastronomic experience atop a fig tree whose fruit is fish

Farm to fork The second is because its specialty fish dishes are literally farm to fork. I cannot erase the image of colleague Mugure Gathuru in the company of trout farm attendant Edwin Gakunga neatly gutting the fresh catch that would transform iinto a sumptuous delicacy courtesy of Head Chef Jackson Mwangi. I did not have the heart for it, barely managed to net our lunch, and was

The Trout Tree treat

better-suited at running after the geese in the compound. The restaurant serves fresh rainbow trout from its ponds but the menu also includes prime Laikipia beef as well as vegetarian options. A children’s menu is available during the weekends. The restaurant can comfortably seat 60 people while keeping their food secure from the troupes of resident colobus monkeys. While at it, diners can also get a glimpse of the resident tree hyraxes and the abundant bird life. They can also enjoy a cold one resourcefully kept cool in the icy ponds. My co-host who has an allergy for fish opted for the grilled fillet steak, Mount Kenya vegetable kebab, seasonal salad and crunch French fries while I opted for the boneless trout fillet with garlic. My portion cost Sh1,750 that I reckon is not too terrible for a main ingredient that takes three years to perfect. Speaking of respecting the process, Trout Tree is the largest commercial trout farm in East Africa — it has a hatchery, ten small fry fishponds, four medium-sized fingerling ponds and 21 large ponds. The restaurant operates strictly from 10am to 4pm. During our visit, I observed a few famished souls turned away for coming in late.

The Standard

CHEF OF THE MONTH

Swahili mutton/chevon biriani (paneer biriani - vegeta rian option)

Eid highlight with a coastal Swahili twist

Ingredients: 1kg mutton/chevon (1k g of paneer for the vegetarian option) 500ml vegetable oil 4 large sliced onions 1/2 kg potatoes peele d and cut into halves 4 tablespoons of paw paw purée 1 teaspoon garlic mince d 1 teaspoon ginger mince d 1 tablespoon whole pil au mix 1 teaspoon garam ma sala 2 tomatoes cubed 1 green pepper finely diced 300g tomato paste 3 lemons squeezed 250ml buttermilk (mazi wa mala) Salt to taste For the rice 2 cups of basmati rice 4 cups of water 1/2 teaspoon yellow food colour or saffron Salt to taste

An evergreen classic, biryani really needs no introduction. It’s aromatic, it’s heavenly and one of the most loved delicacies.

4. Heat a little vegetable oil in a separate pan to fry the gar lic and ginger (you can use the same oil use d to fry onions for their flavour). 5. Partly crush the wh ole pilau mix and sauté for two minu tes. Add the mutton or paneer and sau té further for two minutes before adding a teaspoon of the garam masala. Stir we ll to ensure the flavours coat the mu tton/paneer then add in the tomatoes, green peppers, tomato paste and bu ttermilk. Stir the mixture some more bef ore tossing in the fried potatoes and sprinkling fried onions on top. 6. As it cooks, add lim e juice then bring to a boil. Cover and allow cooking at medium heat for about 20-25 minutes. For the rice, measure four cups of water and add the tw o cups of rice and salt. Cover and cook un til the rice is almost done. Sprinkle the diluted yellow food colour on the rice and two tablespoons of the oil used to fry onions. Cover with a tight lid the n put on a low flame to steam the rice and make it fluffy. Serve the rice with the thick stew on top.

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By Chef Ali travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

ince various public health restrictions have forced most restaurants to stay closed or operate at half capacity, most people have been trying out their culinary skills at home with ingredients from their cabinets. Videos circulating on the internet have been highlighting the various meals Kenyans have been cooking since Covid-19 struck: banana bread, pancakes, crepes, pilau, jollof rice, biryani, injera, etc. It comes as no surprise then that food content creators, especially those on YouTube, have seen growth in their following. #CookWithMe videos have enabled food content creators to gain traction on their platforms as they showcase local delicacies globally. YouTubers have ensured the recipes are simple so that even people who cannot cook can prepare these meals. The recipes range from healthy meals to decadent treats. The idea of these videos has been to help people come up with meals using basic ingredients without compromising on taste.

Method: 1. Heat the oil in a dee p fat frying pan and fry the onions to golden brown. 2. Using the same oil, fry the potatoes to get a good crust an d then keep aside. 3. Cut the mutton in cub es, marinate it with the pawpaw purée, and keep aside for about 30 minu paneer option, dice int tes. For the o cubes and set aside.

“These daily videos have enhanced the connections between creators and viewers, but also between creators. This has brought viewers across the world together by enabling creators and viewers to do things alone together, building a YouTube community,” says Dorothy Ooko, Google’s head of communications and public affairs, Africa. Keeping with this theme, on July 31, popular Chef Ali under the #CookWithMe hashtag shared his culinary expertise with viewers to celebrate the Eid festival, and Travelog joined in. Eid al-Adha, which translates to ‘Feast of the Sacrifice’, is the second of two Islamic holidays celebrated worldwide each

year (the other being Eid al-Fitr), and considered the holier of the two. It commemorates the willingness of Ibrahim (Abraham for Christians and Jews) to follow Allah’s command to sacrifice his son. A major part of Eid al-Adha is the Qurbani (or Udhiya), which means sacrifice. Livestock - goats, sheep, cows or camels - are sacrificed, reflecting on Prophet Ibrahim’s willingness to sacrifice his son Ismail (Ishmael) for the sake of God. The meat is donated to the poor as well as neighbours and family. Every Muslim who has the financial means should give his share to the poor. There is no better way to reduce the angst occasioned by health restrictions than to share your cooking prowess as most people have been doing online. And nothing goes better with lamb than the coastal highlight, Swahili biriani, and for the vegetarians we have the option of paneer. Happy cooking.

The Standard

Ride the gin wave

MIXOLOGIST Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

[COURTESY]

There is more than one way to whip up safari’s sundowner staple and then there’s the Travelog way By Alex Kavita travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

et us show you how to achieve perfection in the glass when it comes to drinking gin. Historically, there was a period when gin was abused and consumed in ways that really did not do justice to the true reasons for the drink. In my book, socialising and celebration are some of the reasons we enjoy a tipple. It seems I share the same philosophy with a gentleman called Charles, last name Tanqueray. He set out to do something right and that was make a gin that stood out flavourwise. The unchanged, unmistakable result has been enjoyed from the beginning of the first documented cocktail era. I was recently in Karen, at Hemingway’s Nairobi crafting high-ball cocktails for brunch. As I watched the guests enjoy the drinks, I could not help but remember my early days in the industry. I remember how guests kept coming back for something to add to their already prepared drink. It was always a bit of tonic, lime or ice, but never gin. One guest noted that my team and I were doing a good job with our efficient service, but exclaimed that our cocktails came off too strong. I learnt from the fault and today I practice and preach the art of balance. When it comes to gin, it’s all about what you add to the mix. Tanqueray London dry is made using a combination of licorice, juniper, coriander and angelica. Tanqueray No. 10 uses London dry as a base spirit and then an addition of limes, grapefruit, oranges and chamomile. It’s a gin that has won an award that no other gin has, putting it in a class of its own. Remember to stick to the measurements in the recipes and play around as you may please with ingredients until you find your favourite combination. Fill the glass with ice – it will dilute gradually and keep the drink cold. Ice is the equivalent of water. The choice is yours – I fill my glass to the brim with ice. Squeeze your citrus fruit – lemon, lime or grapefruit. It’s the juice you want to incorporate into the drink. A slice is just but garnish – great looks but lacking in the flavour department. The tonic must surpass the gin in capacity, not the other way round.

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I WENT THERE Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Kericho, home to the world’s single largest tea plantation, harbours gems worth your green By Thorn Mulli

[COURTESY]

travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

‘god’s bathroom’ is more than just tea

My monthly resolution of visiting one new location every month took me to Kenya’s high country, Kericho, whose altitude and ideal climate have earned it the tag ‘god’s bathroom’. We left the capital way past midday for a journey estimated to take at least four hours. My travelling party does not contain any speed junkies, so the trip on the lips of sunset, interrupted by one stop in Naivasha for lunch, meant that we arrived at our destination late in the night. If you have never made this trip, the area is accessible by road through the B1 Road through Nakuru and Molo that links Mau Summit and Kericho to Kisumu and Busia. We intended to make a round trip to Kericho and return through Bomet. I have been to Kericho at least twice, but never truly experienced the soul of this town. Besides tea, all I knew about this town was that it is the home to Tea Hotel that was frequented by royalty for ages before its eventual ruin. Then there is that establishment that made headlines for its rule requiring couples to show proof of marriage before being booked in. While a cup of tea is easy to come by in Kericho, it is odd that Kenya’s high country has few decent accommodation options. Ours was a boys’ trip, so we settled for Sahara Gardens, one of the newer hotels in the area. Apart from its fair charges of Sh5,000, it was a suitable choice for two reasons: they run an itinerary for guests keen to explore Kericho. Since our plan was to use the scenic Bomet route on our way back to Nairobi, we needed a fitting pit stop and Sahara Gardens runs a sister hotel that we would check in to. After checking in, we decided against good judgement to sample the nightlife. And that is how we ended up at Wessyde Sports Bar at the top floor of Greensquare Mall. A point to note is that Uber has no reach here and Wasili and Rafiki are your go-to taxi hailing applications. When we eventually stirred to go for breakfast it was well into midday. Our first stop, not far from our base, was Chagaik Arboretum, which is said to be the brainchild of Tom Grumble who came up with this botanical garden after the Second World War. These beautiful gardens are home to the herbivorous vervet monkeys identifiable by their black faces and grey bodies and the unmistakable colobus monkeys with their ‘mutilated’ thumbs, white beards and elegant

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I WENT THERE Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

bushy tails. Surrounding the arboretum are tea fields which surround everything in Kericho, including our next destination, Kabianga University, where we stopped at for the ‘I was here’ selfies. Facts about Kericho Tea is to Kenya what wine is to ‘SaatAfreeka’. What the Winelands are to South Africa is what Kericho and its environs are to Kenya. It is here that green old money truly rests. Split between some 50 large-scale growers and at least halfa-million small-scale farmers, about a million acres in the rift is under tea farming. These farms produce over 50 varieties of tea developed to suit the seven growing regions. As you would expect, this kind of intensity has ensured that Africa’s leading tea producer rivals the big boys India, China and Sri Lanka. Not bad for a country whose first seedlings of the Camellia sinesis, what you consider tea, were only introduced in 1903. In fact, the original trees still stand in Mabroukie Tea Estate in Limuru. And in case you were wondering, Turkey, Morocco and Egypt are the biggest consumers of our aromatic beverage described as having a “brisk, full bodied” flavour. Even as we celebrate this amazing feat, it is wise not to forget that it has come at a great cost. Story behind the name The story about Kericho cannot be told without mentioning that this town hosts Africa’s largest Sikh Gurdwara. It is a town whose origin is ironically pinned on western medicine. It is said that the first hospital was built in the area and as a result kerichek the word for medicine in Kipsigis language caught on. That notwithstanding, there are other theories that the town was named after a local medicine man called Kipkerich or after a Maasai chief, Ole Kericho who was killed in the 18th century by the Abagusii. An excursion to a tea farm Should you want to experience the essence of a tea farm then I highly recommend that you take an excursion to Chemusot farm, on the outskirts of town. What is amazing about this farm is that it is a mixed farming enterprise. The farm, owned by Kim Martins has a eucalyptus tree plantation and 15 acres of stevia – a natural sweetener. This is in addition to livestock including dairy cattle that produce over 200 litres of milk daily. His is an inspirational tale of how he overcame an operating loss of over 10 million shillings to become a leading provider of purple tea in the region. Bill Martin, the first mayor of Kipsigis County Council who bought the farm in the early 1960s must be proud of his son. The farm gained touristic novelty after it allowed athletes to train in it. As its popularity soared, a campsite overlooking the dam complete with eco toilets and rondavels was set up for guests. To access the site, we paid Sh250, a fee that covered swimming and fishing as well as use of the

kayaks and boats. Camping costs just Sh1,000 per person but those not keen on sharing a bed with crickets can rent the cosy farmhouse for Sh12,000. The Last Supper On our last day in Kericho, we were booked for dinner at what was touted as the best eatery in town – Aubergine. I have to be honest that the décor did not match up to Chelsea’s one time big name. To paint a picture, it looked more of a fast food joint than a fine dining restaurant. But first impressions can be deceiving. I learnt fast the true essence of the phrase: under promise but over deliver. For starters, it was hard to ignore the attention to detail by the waitstaff. One look at their menu and I was instantly blown away. Salmon and duck feature in their menu as well as a wide array of wines. Once we had placed our orders, we were pleasantly surprised at the tastiest amuse bouche. Long story short, this every visitor to Kericho should visit this place. Time flies when you are having fun and as we slid on the smooth B3 Road home, stopping for some groceries, I realised that we had barely scratched the surface of one of Kenya’s most crucial water towers ensconced between the Mau Forest and Lake Victoria that is less than 100 kilometres to the west. Planning a trip? Why don’t you consider Kericho, some 300 kilometres along Kenya’s western tourism circuit with access to Lake Victoria, the Masai Mara National Reserve and Ruma National Park.

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FAMILY CORNER Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Kids can be a handful on a hike, but we will have you managing them like a pro By Thorn Mulli travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

If there is one thing that ‘lockdown’ has brought out in us then it has to be our passion for the outdoors. Hiking is such a wonderful way to get children outdoors, immersed in nature and burning some of that boundless energy. It can teach them so much about their surroundings and instill an appreciation for nature deep in their soul. Hiking can build confidence, foster independence and encourage curiosity in children. It gives them opportunities to explore your local area, learn about local plants and animals and other natural teaching opportunities. Hiking can also help push children out of their comfort zone and accomplish something they can be proud of. Importantly, hiking provides a distractionfree environment for quality time with your children. Despite all these advantages, hiking with children can be tough because they require constant supervision, get worn out easily, throw tantrums, feel bored, and discover poison ivy with unparalleled dexterity. Planning to hit the trails with young ones then you should consider: 1. Choose an interesting trail Walking a flat dirt road is boring. Walking a narrow winding trail is intriguing. It’s even better if your trail has a lot of trees or boulders that a child can climb. Hiking near a water feature gives kids a target at which to throw rocks. They can gather sticks and pretend to fish (or actually bring rods and fish for real), dip their toes, fill their sun hats with water to cool off their hot heads, and splash around. Let the natural environment interest the kids. Look for animal tracks and bones, and point out interesting plants and birds. Let them lead

and take it easy Almost every hiking family will give some variation of this piece of advice: walk at your child’s pace, stop for breaks, and give them time to explore. When you first start hiking with your children, let them take the lead. Hiking with kids is very different from hiking with adults and you have to go at their pace or they’ll hate it. Children walk much slower, need numerous stops and require time to explore. If your kid is more interested in climbing rocks and chasing butterflies than making it to the next kilometre marker, let them. Remember that the goal when hiking with children is not to get to a destination, it’s about the journey. 2. Dress for success This may not come as a surprise, but the best way to prepare for hiking with kids is to make sure everyone has the right clothing and gear. Children, especially, should have comfortable and well-fitting shoes. Bonus points if they’re also waterproof so your young ones can stomp in puddles or shallow creeks without fear of soggy socks. Skimp on this vital piece of footwear and you’ll pay for it when you start hearing complaints about blisters or sore feet before you even get to the trail head. Because the weather can change suddenly, consider quick dry fabrics, waterproof jackets and pants, trekking poles to aid in climbing a steep rocky stretch, and breathable layers. Do not forget accessories like hats, sunglasses, and scarves to protect them from the elements. 3. All the snacks, treats and rewards Keep your child happy and motivated by taking numerous small breaks for fluid and food. Kids may be so interested in their new environment that they don’t realise how thirsty they are. High-energy foods and plenty of water will k e e p

them in good spirits. Pack lots of snacks and save the best for last. You can also find a restaurant on the trail map and choose a trail that leads to that restaurant or circles back to it. 4. Learning and adventure Some kids may need more than snacks and the promise of playtime in a cool stream to keep them entertained on the trail. Use hikes as a way to teach them about their surroundings and how to respect the environment. Fostering a sense of learning and adventure also makes the hike worthwhile. You, for instance, can bring a bird checklist for your young ones to point out with incentives to keep them going. Moreover, just as importantly, teach children to leave no trace. Always take nothing but photos and leave nothing but footprints. Take all your trash to a trashcan or home with you and leave none on the trail. If you have older kids that can safely pick up trash they find on the trail, encourage them to clean up after others when you’re out hiking. 5. Make the enthusiasm contagious Having an optimistic attitude can get your kids a lot further on a long walk. I won’t suggest you ignore your child’s complaints. Instead, I suggest you acknowledge their feelings, empathize if you want, and then re-direct them or talk about problem solving. Treat your child respectfully and respond honestly to questions of what the trail will be like, how far along you’ve hiked, what to expect next, and so forth. If you tell a kid that the walk will be easy and only take an hour, then that should be pretty close to the truth. 6. Safety first You can purchase medical kits, which provide supplies you’ll need for a safe hike, or you can assemble your own at home. A few essentials that should be in every kit are Easy Access Bandages, antibacterial ointment, wound-closing tape, gauze, tweezers, an ace bandage, moleskin for blisters, ibuprofen and an antihistamine (be sure to pack these in both adult and children dosages). You should know how to use every item in your kit before you go hiking with it, so be sure to read up on some basic first aid skills, such as how to stop bleeding, how to wrap a sprain and how to remove splinters. Children can even assemble a small kit for their own packs. Importantly, put an emergency whistle in each pack and teach them how to use it – three sharp blasts is the universal distress signal.

tips for hiking with children

7. Last, but not least Model safe behaviour at all times. Don’t take chances. Don’t ignore posted warning signs. Show your kids what it looks like to stay on the trail. Trail safety for your kids always begins with you.

The Standard

Keep fit while travelling to boost your immunity

WELLNESS Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

The benefits of regular physical activity during the pandemic cannot be overemphasised. By Jeff Anthony travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

n unhealthy body can trace its decline to the absence of an exercise culture and an overly hale and hearty diet. Even without the presence of a contagion like Covid-19, the body demands persistent agility to protect it against disease, boost mental health and reinforce high self-esteem, which inadvertently increases self-confidence and enhanced opportunity capitalisation. While reeling under the uncertainty and devastation of a pandemic, there is an urgent need to come up with a disciplined daily workout programme to relieve stress and cage impending depression. Brief and simple, yet intense daily exercises go a long way towards shifting the ground on avoiding the coronavirus disease or overcoming it in the event of an infection. To quickly improve fitness, it’s

important to perform cardiovascular exercises daily. This can be done from the comfort of your home or hotel room if you’re travelling.

PHOTOS [COURTESY]

Cardio exercise Cardio exercise is generally a workout that directly affects the heart and lungs while burning calories. Jogging is a highly popular genre of cardio workout. When your movement is restricted, jogging-in-place continuously for 10 minutes can be very beneficial. Jump rope, or skipping, is an affordable and efficient fat-burning type of cardio exercise, as is mountain climbing, which involves placing your palms on the floor or a chair and moving each leg and knee towards the chest in a jogging motion. An entry step to a door can also be used to execute workout steps. Start slow and then increase the intensity continuously for 10 minutes daily. Lunges and squats One way to handle the monotonous exhaustion of a labourious workout is to divide your regimen into sets and repetitions. One beginner’s programme to start with for a workout novice is performing 10 repetitions, resting for less than 30 seconds and performing another set. Taxing the body this way drastically shocks the physique to adapt. The lower part of the body is the paramount storehouse of strength and it is important that you fortify it. To target the quadriceps, hamstring and calves, it’s very important to engage in lunges and squats after performing your cardio exercise. Lunges involve kneeling with one knee and lifting yourself back up, before repeating the process with the other knee. Squats, on the other hand, require moving your body into the

squatting position and lifting back up repetitively. It is recommended that you perform a different exercise the day after initiating a leg workout. This is to provide room for the calves and quads to grow. Belly fat killer According to physiotherapists, one of the riskiest body parts to accumulate fat is around the abdominal area; this increases the dangers of contracting diabetes and cardiovascular illnesses. One of the simplest forms of abdominal workouts that impacts the rectus abdominis and the obliques, infamously known as love handles, is the plank. Planks are highly effective when combined with cardiovascular exercises. A plank is simply laying on the floor while using your arms and feet to hold your body, while keeping your knees up. It can be made more intensive by performing different variations like extending each knee towards your arm, one at a time, while keeping your body up. Another variation is lifting your glutes up and down while keeping your knees off the ground. The trick to every workout regimen is to gradually increase the pace to force the body to adapt to the ferocity and to achieve gradual, but speedier results. A vital reason our wellness is consistently targeted by contagious illnesses, regardless of living an active lifestyle, is that we don’t consume enough fruits and vegetables during every meal. It’s also important to reduce the intake of sugar, fried foods and starchy foods like white ugali and white bread. It’s also essential to increase your intake of fruits and vegetables cooked in very little oil. Persistent consumption of healthy foods like kale, lettuce, broccoli and traditional greens, or high-nutrient foods like mushrooms and avocados dissipate the chances of contracting influenza symptoms, preserve youth and shorten recovery periods. Jeff Anthony is a novelist, Big Brother Africa 2 Kenya representative and founder of Jeff’s Fitness Centre @jeffbigbrother

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BUDGET BREAKS

Nairobi to Livingstone W by bus

By Bonita Aluoch travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

Two travellers embark on an epic journey that will leave you questioning why you have not tried it yet

anderlust led me on an epic road trip from Nairobi to Namibia through Tanzania and Zambia. I initially planned to travel from Nairobi to Tanzania, then on to Malawi, Zambia, Botswana, and Zimbabwe. The trip would break in Mozambique for a week or so before I proceeded into Eswatini and Lesotho. My final stop would be South Africa before flying back to Nairobi. As it turns out, information on how to cross into all these countries in the version that I wanted was not readily available. Security is a key consideration so a few changes to the original itinerary had to be made. Thankfully, I had help in the form of an ardent solo traveller like myself who was also itching on embarking on the same journey.

Nairobi to Dar: A promising start While night travel is prohibited in Tanzania, countless buses, to suit different budgets, ply the

Nairobi-Dar e salaam route. We booked one for Sh3,500 departing at exactly 6am as scheduled. We were lucky that our pick was fairly comfortable and did not have unnecessary scheduled stops. While this was a plus for us, we were illprepared as the service only provided a bottle of water for the entire dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s affair of roughly 827km. Looking back, this must have been the longest time I have ever had to sit on a journey. Despite stiff backs and frozen bottoms, we eventually arrived at a bus terminus called Sheki Lango, a few Kilometers from Dar at around 9pm. At this stop, we booked a bus to Tunduma, a border town on the Tanzanian to Zambia. Since both of us had been to Dar before, we decided to mark it as a transit city and proceed to Tunduma the next morning. While the quality of buses was a step down, we settled on one before slithering into a motel in the vicinity. This opt was not the finest, but is served the purpose. At cockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crow, the next morning, we started on what would be the most arduous stretch. The bus was not only uncomfortable, squeaky, with a dysfunctional AC system, but the frequent honking and stops made it unbearable. It did not help that we only had a 10-minute break in the entire journey, barely enough to pick a packet of French fries from a road side cafĂŠ. The much touted adherence to traffic rules by Tanzanians did not

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BUDGET BREAKS to Mbeya town for banking services, stocking up on travel essentials and probably sight see. Mbeya is an administrative city in southwestern Tanzania and is the main transit point for connections to Malawi and Zambia, and the southern access point to Lake Tanganyika. It has a rich history of mining and has some of the hotels, post offices, and markets from the colonial era are still operational. We hooked up with a local guide who took us to an attraction called Daraja la Mungu that loosely translates to the God’s Bridge. It is a natural bridge that was formed as a result of a volcanic explosion thousands of years back. It is said that it is the strongest bridge in that part of the world.

Tunduma to Nakonde.

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After a heavy downpour in the night and the morning of departure, we took a tuk-tuk to Mbeya’s bus terminus called Stendi Kuu. Much as there was organised entry and exit of buses, it is the haggling and crowding of the bus ‘officials’ as they introduced themselves to ‘foreign’ passengers that made it unbearable. Had it not been for my mate insisting that we were being duped, we would have paid almost ten times the recommended fare hoping that the bus would take us to Zambia (they lied their buses enter Zambia). There are no buses from Tanzania that cross from Tunduma (Tanzanian side) to Nakonde (Zambian side). Trusting our guts, we moved away from the touts who were openly conning us and receded to furthest end of the bus terminus. After regrouping, an engagement with hawkers yielded the true fare estimate. Satisfied, we were in a minibus heading to Tunduma border slightly less than an hour later, This particular ride was eventful raining for most of the journey to the border. It took us approximately three and a half hours to cover the 112km.

seem to apply here; that or the driver was plain reckless because he made dangerous manouvres without indicating to load excess passengers. It was at this point that I secretly wished we had opted to fly. I quickly buried the thought as we had embarked on this trip for a cultural immersion no matter how difficult it would be. On the bright side, the route we endured was so scenic. Iringa, especially, charmed me with its lush countryside marked by kopjes, dense forest and snaking rivers. As Murphy’s Law would have it, we ran into chock-a-block traffic as we approached a hamlet called Uyole in the larger Mbeya area on the outskirts of Tunduma caused by a trailer accident. With the road rendered impassable, and our bodies folding in fatigue from the 813 kilometre-long journey, we abandoned the trip to Tunduma. After a quick transfer on motorbikes to Uyole, we put up in fairly nice hotel in Uyole that charged Sh4,000 for a double for two nights inclusive of breakfast. Things took a turn for the worst as I gradually came down with a bad flu. Waking up the following day was almost impossible. With some help from a hearty breakfast, however, we garnered enough energy to go

Trouble at the Zambian border Almost every article we read online highlighted how troublesome the Zambian Immigration officers can be. The Tanzanian side at the one-stop border cleared us in a matter of seconds and true to the loud secret, we did not have it easy on the Zambian side. Kenyan citizens are entitled to visa-free entry as long as they bear a valid passport and yellow fever certificate. Even after stating the purpose of our visit and presenting the prerequisite documents, the officers asked us for a typhoid and cholera vaccination certification. At one point, one officer even threatened to send us back to Tanzania to have the vaccination before we could enter Zambia. We kept cool as he went on and on with his immunology lecture, not knowing he was speaking to a biotechnologist. Eventually, after wasting precious time we were allowed entry. At this hour, though, we had no option but to seek accommodation at the border. As usual, boda boda riders were the main plug for proper places to sleep and moving around especially if you are a generous tipper. There are no night buses in Zambia. All buses

to Lusaka from Nakonde border leave at exactly 4:40am to get to Lusaka at around 8pm. I thought the road to Dar from Nairobi was long, but not until I covered approximately 1,400km to Lusaka. Up to that point, I noted that the road condition from Nairobi to Nakonde was perfect. I could also not help but notice that Zambia was mostly flat with one or two hills here and there, and the road to Lusaka was mostly straight. Most signposts on the Lusaka highway had something to do with cattle and beef. There were more commercial trailers and trucks on the highway than buses. The first very brief stop was at Kapiri Mposhi, the final station of the TanzaniaZambia railway. Another stop was at a highway hotel that served really tasty food. The road to Lusaka was long but soothing. I enjoyed experiencing a dramatic sunrise and an enchanting sunset. We got to Lusaka a few minutes past 8pm. Since most buses were arriving at that time, there was a lot of confusion as everyone wanted to show you to their taxi, carry your bag or just find out if you need help while insisting they could help. The biggest challenge we encountered was that there was no online taxi-hailing service. We settled on a taxi guy who looked trustworthy and was kind enough to take us to our guesthouse that we had booked online at that hour. We got a room with twin beds, a spacious bathroom, and a study table. Much as we wanted to rest for a day in Lusaka, the urge to get to Livingstone, the heart of tourism in Zambia, overrode the desire to stay. We decided to start the next day a bit early, explore Lusaka for a few hours then hop onto a bus to Livingstone. It turned out Lusaka was a moderately smaller version of Nairobi City, only with an organised bus station and a smaller population. We spent a bit of time at one of the biggest malls in Lusaka mostly for banking and looking for fresh fruit juices and lunch. One thing that stood out was how we always found taxi drivers and boda boda riders who at all times were happy to help and show us around. Other than the fact that Zambians spell out time in the 24-hour version, always catching us off guard everything, else was on course. As a Kenyan, seeing a street in Zambia named after Dedan Kimathi deepened my connections with that city and its people. We left Lusaka at around 2pm. It was then that I knew I was ready for an adventure of a lifetime. I wanted to skip the bus ride and jump into my future reality badly. I mean, I was six hours away from Livingstone! Six hours away from the mighty Zambezi, the mystical Victoria Falls and epic game drives. The trip from Lusaka was the shortest. The bus ride was much better and compared to the earlier one from Nakonde. We slept at a backpackers in the heart of Livingstone that night. I slept, one happy girl. The next morning we checked out ready for the best part of our trip!

The Standard

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The North Rift is more than her flamingo lakes, erupting geysers and mouth watering goats By Caroline Chebet travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

PHOTOS: [COURTESY]

Have you ever wanted to explore the wonders of the universe without the light-years of travel and gravity sickness? Well, you do not have to be content with simply imagining it thanks to a unique safari of the sky that promises to transport you into another realm. Tumbili Cliff lodge on the shores of the stunning Lake Bogoria hosts this starry immersion at one of the very few local observatory sites known as Nyota Observatory Site. Here, a telescope known as Celestron 14, is stimulating the art of stargazing while giving rise to a different king of safari. Stargazing or astronomy is one of the oldest is the oldest of the natural sciences tracing back to antiquity when it guided travellers and inspired calendars. Before the advent of telescopes, astronomers observed the sky with the ‘naked eye’ from wherever they could find a dark-sky site. In most cases,

Astro tourism stars in Baringo mountaintops did just fine, lifting them up above the distracting surrounding landscapes and cities. To travel into the sky, guidelines dictate that it should be pitch-dark, devoid of light to allow easy sighting of the stars. “Star gazing is an amazing art. Tourists get to watch all they have always read and dreamed of upclose. The darkest hour on a clear, cloudless night guarantees the best experience,” Titus Chepkangor, Tumbili Cliff Lodge manager explained to this writer. The unique telescope mounted high up on raised ground, and operated by remote control, enables curious visitors, and experts alike, to scour the skies for highlights like nebulae, star clusters, and galaxies. “Kenya is among few counties where the equator passes making it a unique destination for visitors from across the world to watch the sky both in the Northern and Southern H e m i spheres. Moreover,

there are seasons when the skies are clearer and one can see innumerable stars. January through to March during less cloudy days and from September through to December are the favoured months,” Chepkangor said. A clear night sky can offer a display of fascinating objects including the stars, bright planets, the moon constellations and even special events like meteor showers. The challenges that might disrupt a solemn night under the African sky is light pollution. According to Lake Baringo Chief Warden, Jackson Komen, Nyota Obser-

vatory has since 2015 been the cathedra of stargazing in the Rift, offering visitors a unique activity to engage in when they visit the region. The location of the observatory, near the equator, he says, is a preferred the site because of it offers many astronomical observations. Throughout the year, Komen says, almost constantly, the astronomical night lasts about ten hours. Astronomers from across the world especially visit Nyota Observatory to contemplate and study the southern constellations invisible from some countries and observe some of the interesting boreal constellations. From the site, they say, the sky is rich in celestial objects with ideal conditions and one can see Hair of Berenice — a faraway cluster of stars only visible in dark skies, the Virgin, the Scorpion, Orion among many others. From exploring earth’s nearest celestial neighbour, the moon gliding over stars to being awed by mysterious Saturn and its hugging ring to discovering the brightest of stars, Sirius, the night sky upclose can never be any better than on this generous countryside. For Sh1,000 an hour, you will buy into a dream magical safari on the equator, under the under the mystic African sky dotted with magnificent stars. While at it, lose yourself to the calming tedium of the tides rising and falling, skip a beat when you spot a crocodile thrashing away at the waters or simply watch the seven majestic islands within it fade into the stillness of a solemn night.

The Standard

SHOOTING SCENE Follow us on Instagram: @TravelogKe Twitter: @TravelogMag Facebook: Travelog Ke Website: travelog.ke

Get to know: Aerial photographer Sam Muchai Beginning: There is no specific point in my life when I knew photography was the thing for me. It’s something that happened gradually as I grew up. I am a non-conformist who has always picked the path that I am passionate about even if it involves rolling up your sleeves. My journey into photography began in 2015 when, in search of a hobby, I bought my first camera. Taking images quickly mutated into a passion and eventually became my work. From the onset, I rapidly learnt that the easy part is taking the picture and the hard part, on the other hand, is getting oneself into a position or situation for a great shot. With that lesson learnt, I kept practicing and taking more pictures while watching a lot of YouTube videos. Everything is on YouTube. Inspiration: I am inspired by the work of wildlife photographer, David Yarrow, and the talented aerial photographers

Tommy Clark and Bachir Moukarze based in London and Dubai respectively. Highlights: I recently hiked to Lake Ellis and Lake Michaelson on the slopes of Mt Kenya and was stunned by how beautiful it is. This high from this hike only matches the thrill of riding my motorbike from Nairobi to Cape Town in 2016. The fact that I am able to make a living from doing something that I am passionate about, however, brings me joy. It has been an honour working for, and collaborating with, leading brands such as Emirates, Jambojet, Kenchic and Wavu Travels. Aspiration? I am keen on highlighting a different part of Kenya and Africa in a way that no one has done before. I want to show the world how beautiful my country is.

The Standard

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A legend carved in stone

By Tracy Gesare travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

lkana Ong’esa has carved masterpieces in way that even he had never dreamt of when he started sculpting as a hobby. The work of his hands, he says, has opened doors beyond his wildest imagination. You have had a successful 50-year career in carving. Where did it all begin? I started stone carving from very tender age; my grandfather and father were stone carvers as were many other male members of the community of Tabaka, my hometown. I grew up capturing these ideas and enhancing them based on those background influences. As children, we would just copy the adults until we could come up with our own original ideas. I continued sculpting in high school, out of interest, even though it wasn’t being taught. I entered one of my sculptures for a national competition dubbed ‘Freedom from Hunger Campaign’ and I won in the sculpting category. I was awarded a small pocket radio that really excited and motivated me. Since art was not being taught in my school as a subject then, I was registered by the school as a private candidate elsewhere, where I sat for the art exam and passed. Did you receive any formal training after that? I must have done very well because I was called to join Makerere University School of Fine Arts without even doing my A-levels.

[Elvis Ogina]

Celebrated stone sculptor keen to pass dying craft to the next generation Despite the lack of formal training up to that point, I had a number of successes and highlights while I was in university. For instance, I entered a competition at the university in my second year and won in my category. In my final year, I also won Sculptor of the Year for my final project - the sculpture is displayed at the university’s art museum to date. After teaching Fine Art for 16 years at Kisii Teachers College, I got a scholarship at McGill University in Canada, where I pursued a masters in Teaching of Art, graduating in 1987. What are some of your favourite pieces? I have several favourites, but Enyamchera (bird of peace) displayed at the UNESCO Headquarters in Paris is one of my most recognisable statues. Others include a carving I fashioned for the United Nations Headquarters in New York in collaboration with other carvers, one on display at the Coca Cola Headquarters in Atlanta as well as the dancing birds for the American Embassy in Gigiri. My current favourite is the Leadership Legacy Monument at the Adventist University of Africa in Ongata Rongai. Of all these, the one piece that is particularly dear to me, is one I did for my good friend, Kenya’s second Vice-President, the late Joseph Murumbi. The work of art is displayed at the Murumbi Peace Memorial at City Park. Would you say that despite putting in work that your achievements still caught you by surprise? Of course, yes! One such unanticipated highlight from my art journey is being able to travel around the world.

For instance, I made acquaintances with a Swedish national who later invited me to their country where I held one of the most successful exhibitions of my entire career. My travels have left me with very fond memories and one such was living among the Eskimo community and creating ice sculptors. Sculpting has been a male dominated field. What are you doing to bridge that gap? We have started focusing our mentorship efforts on women. During annual symposiums, we invite successful female artists from other countries so that our female mentees can understudy them as they are working there. The women and girls we have mentored are catching up and making a name for themselves. What plans do you have going forward? One thing I am working on with a lot of enthusiasm is the Elkana Ongesa Art Museum project in Kisii. We hope to interact with other artists from around the world through this platform. At the same time, we have set up a centre where the public can interact with us through various forms of art. Secondly, there was a project dubbed ‘Art on Wheels’ where we used to exhibit our work across the country in a 40-foot truck, but it became too costly. We would like to collaborate with interested organisations to revive it as an annual venture. We also have an ongoing children’s programme currently sponsored by Koy Clothing who donate five per cent of their proceeds to the program. The community has been very supportive as their children are exposed to activities where their interests can be nurtured. We also hope to start a library for these children and have received book donations from organisations that have collaborated with us in the past. We, unfortunately, lack a shelter to house them.

The Standard

MADE IN KENYA

One youth’s contribution the Sustainable Development Goals cause through everyday items By Ivy Waridi travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

The eco shop now stocks facial wipes and napkins, reusable produce bags that are durable and washable, dish sponges, plant-based dish scrubbers, shampoo bars and cutlery carriers. She tries to address various sustainable development issues with the products she stocks. The reusable facial wipes are essential for the reduction of pollution in the beauty industry. How often do you apply makeup, and how often do you wipe it off with the single-use wet wipes? Getting a reusable product for your beauty routine means that you drastically cut down on the waste products you have. Green Thing hopes to change people’s perspectives towards a cleaner environment. Much as the dish sponge you buy could be cheaper, it has long-term effects on our surroundings. Nelly’s long-term plan is to ensure that Green Thing becomes the go-to platform for everything eco in Kenya. Green Thing also stocks products like metal straws that are not made in Kenya presently but is working towards manufacturing them locally. She advises her clients to go beyond just buying her products but strive to understand the ethos behind brands they consume. Buying green is not the only way to achieve a low waste life, but they complement the bigger picture. You can find Green Thing products on their social media platforms, and their products are also stocked in a shop at Karura Forest along Limuru Road as well as at Lang’ata Link in Karen. To advertise here: travelog@standardmedia.co.ke

[COURTESY]

Have you ever considered what your contribution to the environment would be if you actively chose to reduce the number of plastics you use? When it comes to going green, people falsely imagine that it’s a grand gesture that is near impossible to achieve. And now let me introduce you to Green Thing Kenya, a low waste eco-shop of locally made products that aims to inspire people to play their part in keeping the world green by switching to eco-friendly products. Its proprietor, Nelly Gesare, says she was drawn into the venture by her need to reduce her carbon footprint and her passion for a sustainable environment. Nelly is also a Sustainable Development Goals vlogger. Green Thing Kenya is a conversation starter, which helps us move from the buy-use-throw pattern, especially when it comes to things that we use often. Nelly’s journey started in 2018 with importing the stainless steel straws as well as sourcing for people who could make the products she wanted. And although she was very passionate and heavily invested in the venture, Nelly did not imagine it would become a fully-fledged business. Through her vlog, Nelly has been able to meet like-minded people who continue to inspire her growth.

Think green

CLOSING SHOT

EYE OF KENYA MARCH 09, 2020

Shot by: MarkDenver Karubiu Standing at 60m, The Eye is Africa’s biggest Ferris Wheel. A revolution will give you unprecedented views of sunrise above Kilimambogo, Nairobi and Upperhill skylines, Ngong Hills and an epic sunset behind Mt. Longonot when the skies are clear. EXIF: ISO: 100 Exposure: 20.0 sec at f/22 Focal Length: 14 mm Camera: Nikon D7100 Lens: Rokinon 14.0 mm f/2.8 Tripod used: Yes, most definitely