Cool Camping Europe

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FRANCE

le grand champ In the foothills of the legendary Mont

Françoise and the gang do everything in

Blanc mountain range, directly beneath the

their power to make sure the site functions

towering peak of Aiguille du Midi, you’ll

perfectly. The facilities are in decent shape,

find Camping Le Grand Champ – and what a

with three sanitary blocks (sinks and

great find it is. Run by Françoise Dudas and

showers, hot and cold water), access for

her family, the site is in a tip-top location,

disabled visitors, washing machines and

1,000 metres up in the sky, with mountain

electricity; there’s even a basic but cosy little

views wherever you look.

communal room should the weather turn nasty. And if you’re running low on supplies,

The jagged and oft-snow-topped blocks of

just pop along to the reception, where you’ll

rock that dominate the horizon in every

find a few essentials on sale. Fresh bread

direction make this place feel a bit like

is delivered every day during the summer

Shangri-La: a secret valley, cut off from the

months, just in time for breakfast.

world and stranded in happy seclusion. And whilst the spike-strewn view is the

The nearest supermarket is in the town of

most obvious of the site’s charms, there are

Les Houches, almost 2 miles (3 km) along the

plenty of other reasons to recommend Le

road. Comprised of a number of hamlets, Les

Grand Champ as one of the most appealing

Houches has a certain Alpine charm, as well

of all Alpine camps.

as great ski slopes, a lake and castle ruins. Climbing fans will enjoy the town’s indoor

The beautiful terraced garden boasts pretty

wall, whilst walkers can begin the Tour du

pitches, all grassy and green, and separated

Mont Blanc there.

by a neat-but-natural jumble of trees, bushes and hedges. Even though there’s actually

Nearby, Chamonix is a far cry from the

room for up to 100 tents or caravans, you’d

peace and tranquillity of the site – but, it’s

never guess that this was such a large site

a bit of a mixed blessing. With its myriad

since the layout of the gardens gives it a very

cafés, restaurants, tourist facilities and

intimate feel. Whilst groups are welcome

activity centres, it makes a fantastic hub for

at the site, they are directed to set up camp

anyone wanting to make an exploration of

in a separate area, and this ensures that

the region. But (and you could hear a ‘but’

the other tenters can enjoy their peace and

coming), with up to 40,000 people a day in

privacy at all times.

the surrounding valley during peak season,

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le grand champ FRANCE

it has a resort atmosphere that erodes

tire of all the activities and feel in need of

its more natural charms.

a well-earned rest, then Chamonix offers the opportunity to be indulgent as well as

Although this area is best known for its ski

active. There can’t be many campsites in

slopes, it offers something for every kind of

the midst of a natural wonderland that also

thrill-seeker. In fact, it would be easier to

offer cinemas, beauty salons, casinos and

list what it doesn’t have: you can hike, cycle,

shopping so close by.

climb, raft, kart, golf, abseil, glide, swim, snowboard – and that’s just for starters.

At the end of your hectic day, just zip up the

Entrées could include canyoning, hot-air-

tent flaps on that vertiginous view, snuggle

ballooning, paint-balling and off-road

into your sleeping bag and join Le Grand

mountain-biking. And why not round the

Champ’s version of the mile-high club –

menu off with a sedate ride in a helicopter, a

snoozing happily at altitude in this freshest-

horse trek or a game of boules? If you should

of-fresh mountain air.

THE UPSIDE Drop-dead gorgeous site on the doorstep of Mont Blanc. THE DOWNSIDE Self-sufficiency is the name of the game here. And depending on where you pitch you might hear some motorway noise. THE DAMAGE It’s €4.50 for a pitch, €4.30 per adult and €2.20 per child (under 7). THE FACILITIES In keeping with the site these are fairly basic – just a small shop and decent sanitary provisions. FOOD AND DRINK Apart from the classic Savoyard specialities (fondue, raclette, tartiflette and farcement) you can find most kinds of food in this area. However, a decent local option is the hotel-restaurant Les Gorges de la Diosaz in Servoz (00 33 4 50 47 20 97; www.hoteldesgorges.com), which serves good classic French dishes and has

a great terrace to sit on. But if you want something that’s a little more swish, Les Granges d’en Haut (00 33 4 50 54 65 36; www.grangesdenhaut.com) is a contemporary spot above Les Houches with novel twists on French classics and some very good brunch options. FAMILY FUN There’s so much for families to do here, it would be hard to fit everything in. Options include Les Gaillands in Chamonix, a natural climbing crag great for children and beginners (follow the ‘Taconnaz, Bossons’ signs from Chamonix and the wall is on your left, opposite the lake); and a tree-based activity centre (00 33 6 62 67 28 51; www.arbreaventuremontblanc.com). TREAT YOURSELF To a romantic dinner at Hameau Albert 1er (38 Route du Bouchet, 74402

Chamonix-Mont-Blanc; 00 33 4 50 53 05 09; www.hameaualbert.fr). GETTING THERE Les Bossons is located directly off the E25/A40 just over 3 miles (5.5 km) from Chamonix. The site is signposted from the village. PUBLIC TRANSPORT Chamonix is accessible by train and bus from most major French towns. From Chamonix, you can catch a bus to the nearby shops, just over half a mile (1 km) away. There’s also a railway station at Les Bossons just over a mile (2 km) away. OPEN May–mid-Oct. IF IT’S FULL Glacier d’Argentière, 161 chemin des Chosalets, 74400 Argentière (00 33 4 50 54 17 36; www.campingchamonix.com) is one of Chamonix’s more scenic and naturelle campsites.

Camping Le Grand Champ, 167 chemin du Glacier de Taconnaz, Les Bossons, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, France t

00 33 4 50 53 04 83

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campinggrandchamp@hotmail.com

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THE NETHERLANDS

camping de roos A zwembroek (if you’re a guy) or badpak (if

they are exclusively reserved for anyone

you’re a girl – though what’s with the ‘bad’?)

who’s come by bike or on foot. The site’s

is an absolute must for a stay at Camping

sensible ‘no-car’ policy, with vehicles only

de Roos. Also known as bathers, swimmers,

allowed onsite for unloading and loading,

bathing suits, trunks or cozzies, unless you

helps maintain that natural feel.

fancy a skinny-dip, these items are wardrobe essentials for a refreshing dunk in the

In fact, preserving the natural beauty of the

River Vecht, which meanders through this

site is a priority at Camping de Roos, as it’s

sprawling campsite. So be sure you pack at

a rare honour to be granted permission to

least one or two.

run a campsite in a protected area. Timed showers and recycling bins, plus gentle

Located within an area of outstanding

requests not to pick the lovely flowers ensure

natural beauty between the towns of

the site remains as kind to its environment

Ommen and Beerze, the campsite occupies

as possible. There’s also an onsite shop

an expanse of sloping clearings surrounded

chock-full of healthy foods, planet-friendly

by dense woodland, boasting friendly

cleaning unguents and the most local of

neighbours such as roe deer, nightingales

local produce, of which ice cream made at a

and woodpeckers.

nearby farm is worth several return trips.

Despite the site’s capacity of 276 pitches,

The merry tinkle of children’s laughter is

many of them taken by caravans, the careful

a constant backdrop here, with the owners

layout means you rarely get that unpleasant

taking the term ‘child-friendly’ to a whole

overcrowded sensation. The pitches are

new level. It’s almost guaranteed you won’t

extremely roomy, and the undulating land

hear the familiar ‘I’m borrrred’ when there’s

scattered with trees, bushes and winding

a volleyball court, a football pitch, a kite-

paths creates the illusion of a much smaller

flying field, boules ground and dinghies

site, with more than enough room to go

dotted along the river bank; as well as a

round. But if you’d rather a complete slice of

kiosk where kiddywinks (along with sweet-

countryside peace and quiet, two designated

toothed mums and dads) can get their fill

trekkersvelden are on hand to provide just

of tasty treats. Even on rainy days there’s

the sanctuary you might be needing. Tucked

plenty of indoor fun to be had. But the

away amidst the ground’s chunkier trees,

firm favourite has got to be the swimming

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THE NETHERLANDS camping de roos

opportunity, well…jumping into water and

the Vecht Valley walking path passes right

splashing around. The river’s tributary forms

through the campsite, covering a fair old

the ideal spot for a children’s pool – even

trek of 44½ miles (72 km) in total, taking in

boasting its own mini-beach – and when the

some top-of-the-range countryside.

weather’s fine they jump, dive and ‘bomb’ from its little pier.

This site’s enviable location means that, even with numerous amenities and kids’ activities

The surrounding area is criss-crossed with

on offer, it still exudes a tranquillity that

cycle routes in the ‘river-dune’ landscape,

can be hard to find at other European sites.

formed at some point during the last ice

And if it takes you a while to tune in to the

age. You can hire bikes from the site, and a

country vibes, try floating along the cool

short pedal will find you plunged deep into

river, with blue skies and fluffy clouds above

wonderfully quiet woodland. Or if you’d

and grassy banks on either side, to enjoy a

like to dispense with wheels completely,

bit of Mother Nature at her finest.

THE UPSIDE Stunning woodland location around the River Vecht. It’s relaxing, environmentally friendly and heaven for kids. THE DOWNSIDE With 276 pitches it can get pretty busy. As it’s very family-orientated it’s not the ideal place for couples wanting a romantic retreat or some adult-only time. THE DAMAGE The basic rate per pitch per night is €16.50 for 2 adults, a tent/caravan/camper and parking space, and €13.50 in the low season, with extras per night for another person (over 3 years of age) €3.50, auxiliary tents €1/€2, tourist tax of €0.80 per person per night, electricity €2.60, sewerage €1. There are also packages available. THE FACILITIES An onsite shop, which stocks organic and local produce as well as hot pizzas and vegetable pies. A small tea room and kiosk on a terrace near the river tributary. There’s also an onsite launderette complete with iron and

board. Handy cooling elements and freezer packs are available. There’s also a payphone and free Internet. The loo blocks are heated, with each shower doling out 5 minutes of hot water. Dogs are not allowed on the site. FOOD AND DRINK For mouth-watering pancakes try the De Gloepe farm restaurant in Diffelen (Rheezerweg 84a; 00 31 523 25 12 31; www.degloepe.nl). FAMILY FUN Take the kids on the Wolf Trail adventure walk through the woods. Games are played throughout the 1½ mile (2.5 km) route, and each child gets a rucksack full of descriptions, assignments and a magic sweet that will apparently turn them into a wolf (sounds like fun). Info and rucksacks (€5.95) available at Ommen’s Tourist Info Centre, Kruisstraat 6, Ommen; 00 31 0900 112 23 75; www.vvvommen.nl. TREAT YOURSELF Take a canoe trip along the

River Vecht to experience the valley’s beautiful scenery. A bus will take you to the starting point and from there you travel at your own pace back to Ommen (00 31 529 45 19 24/45 14 33). GETTING THERE Head from Amsterdam on the A1 towards Almere/Amersfoort. Take exit 14 for A28 towards Zwolle. Just past Zwolle, get off at exit 21 for the N340 to Ommen. In Ommen, turn right onto the bridge and turn left onto Zeesserweg, which becomes Beerzerweg. The campsite is approximately 6 miles (10 km) along the road on the left. PUBLIC TRANSPORT The closest you’ll get is Ommen if you come by train, and it’s a long old walk to the site from there. OPEN Mid-Apr–early-Oct. IF IT’S FULL Along the same road, towards Ommen, you’ll find Camping De Vogelsangh (00 31 546 67 30 80; www.devogelsangh.nl).

Camping de Roos, Beerzerweg 10, Beerze–Ommen, 7736 PJ, The Netherlands t

158

00 31 523 25 12 34

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www.camping-de-roos.nl




GERMANY

schnitzmühle If the Black Forest is Germany’s dark

Its several acres, located right next to a

secret, a place of goblins and ghosts and

pretty section of the Schwarzer Regen

the occasional slice of devilish gateau, its

river, are green and airy, peppered with

easterly cousin, the Bavarian Forest, is all

trees, bushes and flowers. Even without

easy-going charm and woody innocence.

the funky extras it would be nice, but when

A lumberjack’s violent fantasy, the forest

you discover the delights of: the Bongo Bar

comprises a seamless landscape of

(a thatch-roofed drinks bar surrounded by

undulating hills, winsome spa towns and

sand and deckchairs); Stonehenge (a cheeky

dense woodlands, criss-crossed with

replica of the great British landmark that

comely copses and titillating trails for

doubles as an open fire and grill place);

bikers, hikers and cyclists.

and the Group Camping section that has adventure facilities and experienced

Located slap-bang in the centre of this leafy

instructors leading rope-climbing, canoeing

nirvana is Camping Schnitzmühle, arguably

and mountain-biking escapades – well, it’s

the first really cool campsite in the country.

hard not to be impressed.

Unlike most German sites, this one is run by young people determined to make the tenting

Being blessed with two rivers – the Regen

experience considered and comprehensive,

and the Schwarzer Regen – means water-

as well as energetic. The owners in question

babies are going to feel totally at home here.

are Sebastian and Kristian Nielsen, who

Stroll around for a minute or two and you’ll

adopted their parents’ hotel business a few

find a lovely natural swimming spot, whilst

years back and have lovingly transformed

you can easily arrange canoe trips on site

it into a funky one-stop-shop for all things

(€36 per canoe for 2 adults/2 adults and a

outdoorsy. Not only did they give the

child). A shuttle bus whisks you to a starting

hotel’s interior a modernist makeover, they

point and you make your own way back to

also overhauled the restaurant, added the

Schnitzmühle.

capacious camping area, constructed an expansive spa and built a beach area around

The surrounding area isn’t short of charming

the site’s natural lake.

countryside or traditional towns and villages. Some leave you a bit cold, though

The Nielsen brothers’ rejuvenating spirit

others have high rural appeal. Arnbruck for

haunts the whole site, and in a good way.

example, is world famous for its superior

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GERMANY schnitzmühle

glass production and a perfect place to pick

camping reception, which also boasts a

up some quality wine glasses at decent

well-stocked kiosk offering everything from

prices for all your drinking exploits at home.

lovely local Weizenbier to the equally lovely

Nearby Viechtach has some cafés and gives

freshly baked bread.

insight into small-town Bavarian life. The nearby beach and lake, located along Back at the site, if you don’t feel like

a path on the other side of the hotel, is the

breaking out the barbie, take advantage

perfect place to cool off and sunbathe. And

of the hotel-restaurant, which combines

if you’re feeling even more indulgent, the

Thai and Bavarian specialities with truly

spa is just a short aloe-vera-face-scrub-

superb results (the mixed tapas is especially

throw away. But if you don’t feel like leaving

good, though it’s neither Thai nor Bavarian,

Schnitzmühle to enjoy some real R&R,

but who cares?). Behind the hotel lies the

there’s absolutely no need to.

THE UPSIDE Authentic ‘cool camping’ in the heart of the Bavarian forest. THE DOWNSIDE You need a car to get around. THE DAMAGE Tent plus 2 adults is €12 (including tent). THE FACILITIES These are superb, including a clean (and colourful) shower block, well-stocked kiosk, onsite bar (Bongo Bar), a place for camp fires and BBQs, a playground and Internet (restaurant) – plus a hotel, spa, restaurant and lake right next door. FOOD AND DRINK The kiosk sells fresh bread in the mornings and general camping essentials. The hotel-restaurant serves up a funky fusion of Bavarian and Thai food, and has a generous breakfast buffet each morning for €8, as well as salads and sandwiches for lunch. Bella Italia (00 49 9942 3633) in nearby Viechtach sells good pizza and pasta.

FAMILY FUN The site can organise everything from canoeing and hiking, mountain-biking, cycling and tree-climbing tours. There’s a playground onsite with table-tennis tables, and you can swim in the lake. Another great option is the bobsleigh ride at the theme park Rodel Paradies (www.sommerrodeln.de; 00 49 9965 1203), a 20-minute drive away. TREAT YOURSELF For a truly relaxing experience, try one of the many massages at Schnitzmühle’s spa. Take your pick from the Yanomami (with banana leaves – €72 for 75 minutes), the Espresso (a 15-minute quickie for €14) or the Absolute High Power Massage (55 minutes for €49). GETTING THERE From Munich take the B2R and exit onto the A9. From there take the exit 68-Kreuz Neufahrn to merge onto A92 towards Landshut, continuing on the B11. Turn left

at the B85, right at St2139 and continue on Bahnhofstrasse/St2326. Take a right towards Blosserberg, right at Schönauer Strasse and right at Leuthenmühle. Then it’s a left towards Rothenbühl, left at Rothenbühl and left at Gmeinholz. From Dresden, take the A4 towards Chemnitz/Leipzig, taking exit 68-Kreuz Chemnitz to merge onto A72 towards Hof/Zwickau/ Chemnitz-Süd. Take exit 4-Dreieck Hochfranken to merge onto A93 towards Regensburg/Prag/ Praha/A6/Hof-Ost. Take exit 33-Schwandorf-Mitte towards Cham/Wackersdorf. Merge onto the B85, the B20/B85, turning left at St2139. Follow directions as from Munich. OPEN All year. IF IT’S FULL Campingplatz am Höllenstein Pirka (Leitenweg 12, 94234 Viechtach; 00 49 9942 8501) is a small, family-run site where river fishing is much more likely than Internet surfing.

Camping Schnitzmühle, Schnitzmühle 1, 94234 Viechtach, Germany t

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00 49 9942 94810

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www.schnitzmuehle.de



USEFUL WORDS AND PHRASES

useful words ENGLISH

PORTUGUESE

SPANISH

FRENCH

DUTCH

campsite

parque de campismo

un camping

un camping

camping

pitch

alvéolo

una parcela

un emplacement

kampeerplaats

large/small/ family tent

tenda grande/pequena/ familiar

una tienda grande/ pequeña/familiar

une grande/petite tente/ tente de famille

kleine/grote/familie tent

facilities

instalações/serviços

unas instalaciones

le bloc sanitaire

badkamers

toilets

casas-de-banho

unos aseos

les toilettes

toiletten

showers

duches

unas duchas

les douches

douches

washing-up/ laundry sink

lavandaria/tanque

un fregadero/lavadero

un bac lave vaiselle/ lave linge

afwas/wasplek

drinking water

água potável

agua potable

l’eau potable

drinkbare water

beer

cerveja

una cerveza

une bière

bier

wine

vinho

un vino

du vin

wijn

sleeping bag

saco-cama

un saco de dormir

un sac de couchage

slaapzak

campfire

lareira

una hoguera

un feu de camp

kampvuur

train

comboio

un tren

un train

trein

car

carro

un coche

une voiture

auto

petrol (unleaded)

gasolina (sem chumbo)

gasolina (sin plomo)

l’essence (sans plomb)

benzine (ongelood)

diesel

gasóleo

diesel

diesel

diesel

bicycle

bicicleta

una bici

un vélo

fiets

left

esquerda

izquierda

à gauche

links

right

direita

derecha

à droite

rechts

straight on

em frente/a direito

todo recto

tout droit

rechtdoor

316


USEFUL WORDS AND PHRASES

useful words GERMAN

ITALIAN

SLOVENIAN

CROAT

GREEK

Campingplatz

un campeggio

kamp

kamp

!"#$%&'( (Camping)

Zeltplatz

una piazzola

postaviti

postaviti, razapeti

)*+,-'%.-+(,&/

ein kleines/grosses/ Familien-Zelt

una tenda grande/piccola/ velik/majhen/družinski familiare šotor

veliki/mali/obiteljski šator

01'"2,30%(4/35%(6'1&1%.(/+(,&/-(Megáli/mikrí

Sanitärbereich

i servizi

ugodnosti, ponudba

sadržaji

7.468*9-(Parochès)

Toiletten

i bagni/WC

WC, toaleta

WC, toaleti

:6;.2*<19 (Toualètes)

Duschen

le doccie

tuši

tuševi

=<6>9 (Doùs)

Abwaschwanne/ Wäschereiwanne

la lavanderia/il lavello

pomivanje/odtocni jašek pri pranju

Pranje/umivanje/Praonica rublja

72;&</4%63?("@,--

Trinkwasser

acqua potabile

pitna vod

voda za pic´e

7A+%#6-=14A (Pósimo neró)

Bier

la birra

pivo

pivo

0$>4.-(Bíra)

Wein

il vino

vino

vino

!4.+B (Krasí)

Schlafsack

un sacco a pelo

spalna vreca

vrec´a za spavanje

?2B$%&'(-#$.'(--

Lagerfeuer

il falò

taborni ogenj

logorska vatra

@C<%"-(Fotià)

Zug

il treno

vlak

vlak

:4*&6-(Tréno)

Auto

l’automobile

avto

auto

.;<6(B&,<6 (Aftokínito)

Benzin (bleifrei)

la benzina (verde)

bencin

bezolovno (gorivo)

D1&EB&,-F.#A2;GH,I

Diesel

il gasolio

diesel

dizel

71<4*2.%6 (Petréleo)

Fahrrad

una bicicletta

kolo

bicikl

76H/2.<6 (Podílato)

links

a sinistra

leva

lijevo

J4%+<14" (Aristerá)

rechts

a destra

desna

desno

K1L%" (Deksiá)

geradeaus

avanti dritto

naravnost

ravno

M;N1B. (Efthía)

(Thési gia skiní)

ikogeniakí skiní)

(Plintírio/skáfi)

(sleeping bag)

Venzíni (amólivdi)

317


SLOVENIA

menina ‘Welcome’, says the laminated sign pinned

spots in total Menina tends to have room

to the door of the wooden reception. ‘If we’re

for everyone, though the site doesn’t feel as

not present you can find us in bar…just find

big as that figure might suggest, due to the

nice spot for you and see you later…’

haphazard layout.

The sign says a lot about Camping Menina.

Menina prides itself on being a thoroughly

It tells you that the site is laid-back; it

sociable place. There’s a nice, natural lake to

suggests that the owners – Jurij and Katja –

gather around instead of a formal swimming

are open-minded, trusting and probably very

pool; an extensive outdoor playground close

busy. And it reveals a beautiful truth – that

to the bar/restaurant so you can grab a

this is a campsite with a bar.

coffee and chat whilst keeping an eye on the kids; and the staff take a fairly spontaneous

Indeed, Menina buzzes in the way a campsite

approach to organising everything from

should. It’s a wonderfully sprawling place

discos and concerts on the lake to guided

that has developed slowly and organically

tours and excursions.

within a section of natural forest in Slovenia’s striking Upper Savinja Valley. Like

In the evenings, people hang out at the

the region, Menina has retained much of its

bar/restaurant, taking advantage of the

sylvan charm. Branches flutter flirtatiously

very decent food (fish, meat and vegetarian

in the valley breezes, dapples of sunlight

dishes on offer) or just to sip a cold beer

dance on the grassy floor and a silver brook

from the bar. This attitude engenders a

tinkles merrily by. It’s the kind of scene

broad demographic. Everyone from kids and

that makes you reach immediately for your

teens to young families and older folk – an

acoustic guitar.

international mix – feel comfortable here, which all makes for a friendly ambience.

Though it’s divided vaguely into sections –

268

a tipi camp (complete with friendly ponies

As well as tents, you’ll notice an abundance

in an adjacent meadow) lies in one area, a

of canoes, kayaks, bicycles and climbing

row of comfortable wooden cabins lines

gear lying around. The site is perfectly

another – visitors generally do as the sign

placed to explore not only the gorgeous

says: find a spot wherever looks nicest…and

Upper Savinja Valley, but also the Kamnik-

pitch. There are plenty of options; with 180

Savinja Alps and the nearby Logarska Dolina






GREECE

dionysus In mythical days gone by, the final leg of

or haggling over evil eyes and alabaster

Odysseus’ journey shipwrecked him on the

gods, there’s a rich mix of options to take

peaceful island of the Phaeacians, where the

your interest. Be it water sports, walking,

kindly princess Nausicaa took him to her

museum-hopping, monastery-peeping or

palace to tell his tale, before letting him set

just basking on the beach, Corfu is a large

sail on to the island of Ithaca. Nowadays,

island and you can easily lose yourself in

that same island is commonly known as

the flower-filled meadows, crags and secret,

Corfu, but you can still find the same gentle

hidden coves, leaving the hustle and bustle

hospitality there.

(if the Greeks have such a thing) of the resorts far behind you.

This Ionian island became a major player in Greek affairs because of its handy location

Five and a half miles (9 km) out of Corfu

in the Mediterranean and when you are

Old Town and a mere five minutes from

ambling through the old town’s sandy neo-

chock-full, glistening-bodied Dassia beach,

classical buildings you’ll be sure to feel

is Dionysus Camping. If this is a name to

the breath of history touching your cheek.

conjure up images of near-naked nymphs

Well, Corfu’s seen a fair few tourists since

popping grapes into one another’s mouths

the late sixties, but you can still catch a

to the accompaniment of a lyre, you may,

glimpse of the Greece of that era by taking

perhaps, be a little disappointed. But in

random turns off the main drag. All sorts

every other aspect this serene spot, set in a

of time-stands-still scenes greet you – from

tiered 400-year-old olive grove, more than

the crumbling, washing-strung piazza to an

justifies its evocative name.

octogenarian bedecked in black, measuring out her years with a string of beads. The real

The facilities offered at the campsite are

Greece is never very far away.

excellent. There are two pristine shower blocks with hot water round the clock, a

Corfu actually means ‘peaks’ and Corfu’s Old

handsome bar overlooking a good-sized

Town is sandwiched between two natural

swimming pool, plus you have the choice of

promontories on which stand two mighty

pitching your tent in the terraced meadows

fortresses, strong enough to repel the

or – and these are terrific value for couples –

aggression of five Ottoman sieges. If you get

taking one of Dionysus’s 50 well-appointed

tired of drinking frappés in the stylish cafés

Polynesian-style cabanas or tikis.

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