w w w. d e l a i re . c o . z a
T H E J O U R N A L O F D E L A I R E G R A F F E S TAT E
ART
BOUTIQUE
CUISINE
A collaborative artwork for South Africa
Delaire Graff Estate’s slice of the Capri lifestyle
Take a journey through the Estate’s edible garden
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C U I S I N E
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D E L A I R E G R A F F E S TAT E | S T E L L E N B O S C H
W E LCO M E
CONTENTS
CONTENTS Welcome to the third issue of Views
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s seasons change and time passes, there is plenty to celebrate at Delaire Graff Estate. In our third issue of Views, we examine the rich offerings behind some of our most precious Estate gems.
Issue three, ���6/2017 04..... Graff Diamonds Shades of the sun
Our main feature revels in the glamorous fashions of 100% Capri, created by Antonino Aiello from Italy, featured in the exclusive boutique situated in the foyer of the Estate. We take a look at the mesmerising collaborative artwork created by William Kentridge, Deborah Bell and Robert Hodgins, which occupies the feature wall in our decadent Wine Lounge. We speak with Head Chef Michael Deg of Delaire Graff Restaurant to learn more about the sustainable cuisine created from the Estate’s private gardens and greenhouse.
Synonymous with the most fabulous jewels in the world, Graff ’s exceptionally rare yellow diamonds endure as some of its most exquisite treasures.
06..... Delaire Life The Wine Lounge de l’aire
Delaire Graff Estateʼs Wine Lounge has been cut and polished to complement the view overlooking the Estate’s manicured vines with award-winning wines.
07..... Art An artistic alliance
We take meticulous care in all that we do here at the Estate, and are extremely proud of our cellar and vineyard teams for the extraordinary success of the Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2013. At this year’s Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show, the Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2013 took home the American Express Trophy for Best Cabernet Sauvignon and the trophy for Best Red Wine Overall. Delaire Graff also won the award for Most Successful Producer Overall.
he collaborative artwork by Deborah Bell, William T Kentridge and Robert Hodgins is the perfect match for the Estate’s prestigious Wine Lounge.
08..... Feature Capri romance
look into fine linen purveyors, 100% Capri, and A the man behind this simple, elegant brand.
This issue also celebrates the many priceless contributions of Graff Diamonds, such as For Africa’s Children Every Time (FACET), which continues to grow and flourish. We honour the magnificence of yellow diamonds and discover the Delaire Sunrise, a diamond so vivid and enchanting that Laurence Graff named it after the vision of the African sun ascending over the Banghoek Valley.
10..... Wine A fine vintage
elaire Graff ’s Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2013 D is not only an extraordinary achievement for the Estate, but also for South African winemaking.
12..... Cuisine Garden of eating
We hope that you enjoy the following pages, and look forward to welcoming you soon to experience the finer details of the Estate.
ead Chef at Delaire Graff Restaurant, Michael H Deg, takes diners on a culinary journey through the Estate’s edible garden.
14..... Spa Hands on luxury
argaret Dabbs’ natural ingredients, combined with M innovative treatments, have proven a winning formula at Delaire Graff Spa.
15..... Giving Back A multifaceted Africa
raff ’s FACET Foundation has sunk its roots G deep into southern Africa, with growing successful initiatives benefiting a wide range of communities.
JOHANN LAUBSER, GM DELAIRE GRAFF ESTATE
DELAIRE GRAFF ESTATE TEAM
PUBLISHING TEAM
ESTATE GENERAL MANAGER JOHANN LAUBSER info@delaire.co.za
PUBLISHER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR ANDREW BURKE andrew@purepublishing.co.za
Distribution: VIEWS is distributed annually by Delaire Graff Estate, available in print at the Estate, otherwise on request by emailing info@delaire.co.za.
MARKETING & PR MANAGER TANJA MACKAY-DAVIDSON marketing@delaire.co.za
MANAGING EDITOR JESSICA GLIDDON jess@purepublishing.co.za
All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.
LODGES & SPA GM JONATHAN LITHGOW hotel.gm@delaire.co.za
ART DIRECTOR TESSA GREEN tess@purepublishing.co.za
SOCIAL MEDIA
MARKETING EXECUTIVE KERRY SEARLE marketing.executive@delaire.co.za
ASSISTANT EDITOR EEDEN LA GRANGE eeden@purepublishing.co.za
@delairegraff #delairegraff
VIEWS is designed and published by www.purepublishing.co.za For business enquiries, call Andrew on +27 (0)21 424 6918 or email hello@purepublishing.co.za V I E W S, I S S U E 3 | 03
GRAFF DIAMONDS
SHADES OF THE SUN Internationally renowned as the world’s leading diamantaire, Graff Diamonds has built an astounding reputation for fabulous stones, with yellow diamonds counted amongst the most extraordinary WORDS | EEDEN LA GRANGE
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ithin a diamond, there lies an enigmatic sense of desire that has seduced admirers for millennia. Born with an intense and vibrant beauty deep within the earth, yellow diamonds are perhaps the most alluring, radiating a light from within akin to the ferocity and brilliance of the sun. The House of Graff has handled a myriad of magnificent yellow diamonds. In 1974, Laurence Graff acquired the Star of Bombay, a 47.39-carat yellow stone that marked the beginning of Graff ’s yellow diamond legacy. Transforming a diamond from its rough form into a scintillating masterpiece requires nerves of steel, since it is a natural substance. In 2009, a perfectly formed octahedral yellow diamond rough, weighing 221.81 carats was unearthed at an alluvial mine in South Africa. Its spectacular nature upon discovery was just a promise of the magnificent jewel it was to become. When Laurence Graff saw the stone he was astounded. He had never seen a rough diamond of such size, colour and quality take this form. After many months of meticulous cutting and polishing the stone yielded the largest Fancy Vivid Yellow square emerald cut diamond in the world, at 118.08 carats. This diamond’s evocative yellow tones reminded Laurence Graff of Africa, particularly, the sunrise at Delaire Graff Estate. As the Simonsberg mountains give way to the ascending sun, revealing rays one after the other, the Banghoek Valley becomes reacquainted with the sun’s glowing warmth. The crisp night air slowly fades as a new day awakens the mountain slopes, illuminating everything in its path. Inspired by this memory of the African sun, Graff unveiled the new diamond as the Delaire Sunrise. Delaire Graff Estate’s winery named their inaugural Loire-style sparkling wine to commemorate the magnificent stone. The Delaire Graff Sunrise Brut MCC is resplendent in its soft yellow hue, a zesty crémant of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc grapes. The wine is a remarkable addition to the Delaire Graff wine portfolio and honours the Sunrise through an intricate label embossed with the facets of the diamond. Where the Delaire Sunrise evokes memories of the striking Stellenbosch dawn, the Golden Empress diamond is reminiscent of the sunset. As the sun’s diffused rays embrace the twilight, colouring the sky a burnt yellow, 04 | V I E W S, I S S U E 3
GRAFF DIAMONDS
WHEN LAURENCE GRAFF SAW THE STONE HE WAS ASTOUNDED. HE HAD NEVER SEEN A ROUGH DIAMOND OF SUCH SIZE, COLOUR AND QUALITY TAKE THIS FORM... THE STONE YIELDED THE LARGEST FANCY VIVID YELLOW SQUARE EMERALD CUT DIAMOND IN THE WORLD, AT 118.08 CARATS
cloudy shadows contrast the airy highlights in a similar fashion to the facets of the Empress. Its incandescent core seduces the eye and encourages a longer gaze into the stone’s golden depths. Quintessentially imperial, the 132.55-carat Fancy Intense Yellow diamond is a splendid sight. Discovered in the Letseng Mine of Lesotho, the 299-carat rough diamond embodied complexities which served for a fascinating cutting and polishing process. The Golden Empress’ cushion cut was chosen after meticulous consideration and once complete, the diamond could not have been more exceptional. The rough stone yielded a further eight satellite diamonds, comprising six pear-shaped Fancy Yellow stones, the largest being 21.34 carats, as well as two brilliant round diamonds. It has been said that the Golden Empress exudes a colour like no other, resembling that of honey. The resulting effect is one of opulent magnetism and transparent beauty. Graff ’s ethereal yet earthly diamonds exude an incredible presence. A yellow diamond is emblematic of commitment and love, prosperity and joy. These staggeringly scarce and emotive jewels emit an energy that narrates the story of their origin, deep inside the earth’s core. They encompass a warmth that is infectious, and an iridescence that will last forever.
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DELAIRE LIFE
THE WINE LOUNGE DE L’AIRE
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pon entering the Delaire Graff Estate Wine Lounge, the overwhelming nature of its serene beauty is immediately apparent. It is irrefutably a promise of the Estate’s splendour. Derived from French, ‘de l’aire’ means ‘from the sky’, and with its endless aerial views over the Banghoek Valley, this name embodies the space to perfection. The warm and inviting interior is a fusion of ultramodern design elements combined with local provenance and indigenous styling. Lavender leather chairs with riempie arms and backrests surround chic dark wooden tables. Floral-patterned cornicing rounds off the furnishings and contrasts the art deco-inspired lamps, effortlessly floating from the asymmetrical timber ceilings, illuminating the tables below. This opulent creation was the work of David Collins Studio, designed to beautifully complement the rest of the Estate, while still exuding an undeniably unique character. Bold statement pieces, such as the regal marble fireplace, enhance the collaborative artwork by Robert Hodgins, William Kentridge and Deborah Bell featured above it. Vast mountain-scapes enter the room through
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Crafted on the slopes of the Helshoogte Mountain Pass, Delaire Graff ’s wine is something sensational. It’s only fitting then that this bounty should be enjoyed in a setting that reflects its sophisticated nature WORDS | EEDEN LA GRANGE
the floor-to-ceiling glass doors, which open up onto the carefully manicured gardens, designed by landscape architect Keith Kirsten.
THE WINE LOUNGE IS A
A baby grand piano occupies one corner, with a portrait artwork by Lionel Smit found in the other. Opposing the fireplace, Kendell Geers’ Mutus-Liber sculptures stand
WINE SHOULD BE. FILLED WITH
REFLECTION OF EVERYTHING A CONTRASTING DELIGHTS, IT IS A PLACE TO ENRICH THE SENSES AND DELIGHT THE PALATE imposingly at the entrance. The nearby elaborate mirror and glass display case, hosting countless bottles of wine, is a feature in itself. Before this stands a display table overflowing with delicate porcelain sculptures, organic honeys unique to the Estate, trophies from awards won and more. Chairman of Graff Diamonds, Laurence Graff, acquired Delaire Graff Estate in 2003, a gem that provides an exceptionally picturesque setting for wine tasting, and in fitting form, the lounge is a reflection of everything a wine should be. Filled with contrasting delights, it is a place to enrich the senses and delight the palate.
ART
AN ARTISTIC ALLIANCE Bringing together three of the country’s greatest artists, the artwork Six Characters embodies the South African art world in a single, stunning artistic achievement WORDS | JESSICA GLIDDON
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n 2008 and 2009, three South African art luminaries – the revered William Kentridge, the subversive Robert Hodgins, and the mystically inclined Deborah Bell – united to create one of South Africa’s most significant artworks. A combination of charcoal, ink, watercolours, gouache and collage, the work, now hanging in Delaire Graff Estate’s Wine Lounge, is an unparalleled embodiment of the South African contemporary art world. This was not a spontaneous occurrence. The three great artists became acquainted through their involvement at Wits University: Bell was tutoring, Kentridge was a student, and Hodgins lectured. Neil Dundas, senior curator at the Goodman Gallery, recalls that the first major collaboration between the three resulted in a series of prints entitled Little Morals. What ensued was a flourishing meeting of minds, resulting in prints, etchings and a series of collaborative animated films, with Kentridge directing, Hodgins acting and Bell creating the set. Six Characters was made during a later period in the artists’ careers. It was not the only work that the three did during this time, but was the largest and most remarkable. “It is very unusual for three artists of this stature to create a piece like this at the zenith of their careers,” Dundas explains. “This was a marvellous case of three prodigious talents enjoying the process of challenging each other. It’s a very significant work.” All three artists are known for their use of human figures as a means to express subversive ideas and to satirise traditional power institutions. Six Characters is a collage of the distinctive styles of each artist, capturing the focus of each at the time. It was created as part of a series of exhibitions held at the Goodman Gallery located in Cape Town, beginning with Robert Hodgins. He initiated the artwork with two figures on its periphery, indicative of his infatuation with audiences and their reactions. After his exhibition finished, the work remained, making way for Deborah Bell, who added her sculpturally-inspired goddess on a horse to the canvas. Kentridge then stepped in, using push-pins to create a shadowy effect from pieces of dark paper. However, the piece was not yet complete. The final touches speak of the capricious relationship between the three. Bell sketched into the background a nose on horseback – a reference to a series of works created by Kentridge when producing Shostakovich’s opera, The Nose, in New York. It recounts an absurdist tale by Nikolai Gogol about an official whose nose leaves his face and takes his job, and his horse. Kentridge
then got involved, replacing the shoes and head of one of Hodgins’ creations with pins and paper. Hodgins retaliated by drawing a face in white chalk on the black paper.
being. It is now part of the fabric of not only the artistic history of the country, but also Delaire Graff Estate’s legacy.
Much of this work took place in the gallery in front of the public, during each artistʼs exhibition. One such audience member was Laurence Graff, who was enthralled with the piece and purchased it for his collection in 2009. The painting today occupies pride of place above the fireplace in the Delaire Graff Wine Lounge, seamlessly blending with the interior. Because it fits so perfectly, many have mistakenly assumed that it was commissioned for the space, but it was rather the interior that drew inspiration from the piece.
THIS ARTWORK IS A UNIQUE CREATION OF THE CAPE, WHERE IT WAS BROUGHT INTO BEING. IT IS NOW PART OF THE FABRIC OF NOT ONLY THE ARTISTIC HISTORY OF THE COUNTRY, BUT ALSO DELAIRE GRAFF ESTATE’S LEGACY
Not only significant for South Africa, this artwork is a unique creation of the Cape, where it was brought into
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F E AT U R E
CAPRI Romance Renowned purveyors of fine linen, 100% Capri’s breezy fashions define the simplicity of the chic Italian island lifestyle
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he scent of lemon blossom wafts through the fresh ocean air of Capri. Nestled in the Bay of Naples, the island’s fabled allure has seduced visitors for centuries with promises of refined elegance, unsurpassed beauty and unique charm. This is the inspiration for the luxurious lifestyle brand 100% Capri. One of the world’s most exclusive boutiques, 100% Capri offers an opulent clothing and homeware range that evokes the essence of la dolce vita. A true visionary, young entrepreneur Antonino Aiello has exported this dreamy island’s lifestyle to the world. In Africa, the brand is available exclusively at Delaire Graff Estate. Born in Sorrento, Italy, Aiello encountered textiles and tailoring for the first time through the Neapolitan style embraced by his family’s business. At the age of 23, he moved to the alluring Italian island and founded his own highly successful fashion and household linen brand. Linen is a naturally lavish fabric, being suitable for almost any occasion and having adorned high society throughout the ages. It is the oldest known textile fibre, with the earliest traces of its use dating back to 8,000 BC. Made from flax, linen was hailed as ‘woven moonlight’ by the Ancient Egyptians due to its delicate beauty. It is the strongest vegetable-based thread and, despite its soft textural feel, has at least twice the strength of cotton.
The captivating fashion range features the brand’s signature colours of deep navy, white and taupe that are inspired by the mysterious grottos, sandy beaches and dramatic stone cliffs of Capri. Each summer, Aiello incorporates a unique hue, from coral to bright red, highlighting a different aspect of the wondrous isle. “Capri is a synonym of elegance,” says Aiello. “Just look at the impressive characters who have visited, like the writer Curzio Malaparte, the filmmaker Vittorio de Sica, then Aristotle Onassis and Jacqueline Kennedy – who also popularised the worldfamous Capri pants. 100% Capri is inspired by this world and lifestyle: by the white lime of the walls, by the glare of the rocks and the blue of the sea around this beautiful island.”
EACH PIECE FROM AIELLO’S COLLECTION IS IMBUED WITH THE HEDONISTIC AND CAREFREE SPIRIT OF THE SUN-DRENCHED ISLAND, WITH DREAMS OF SUMMER DAYS SPENT OVERLOOKING IRIDESCENT WATERS
Aiello realised there was great potential in applying his experience to linen. The fabric offers many desirable qualities, from lightweight comfort and wonderful breathability in hot, humid climates, to strength and the ability to remain cool due to its thermo-regulating properties. With universal appeal, linen is also praised for being non-allergenic and anti-bacterial, making it especially kind to sensitive skin while being ecologically friendly.
With this jet-set lifestyle in mind, one can explore the glamorous and fashionable locations of these exclusive shops around the world. Airy and refined, each polished store captures the spirit of the island with curated apparel.
Inspired by the fabric’s versatility, Aiello creates fashion designs that are able to transform from stylishly relaxed for day, to casually elegant for evening. He also includes linen within his household range that was launched in 2006. The values of typical Italian craftsmanship define the collections. Many items are hand-stitched in Sorrento, and the hallmarks are crisp, comfortable, beautifully styled attire with clean lines and exquisite attention to detail.
“Capri is very sophisticated in terms of décor,” says Aiello, “with soft textures, a fresh climate, blue skies and an abundance of natural sunlight. The pureness of the island shows a simple approach to style that we revisit in our home collection.” Selected accessories from the homeware range, such as delicate, handblown Murano glass, luxurious linen napkins and woven baskets instantly invokes the stunning scenery of the island.
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Capri was a favourite and frequent retreat of the Roman Emperor, Tiberius. Aiello suggests taking a lesson from the island’s several centuries of architecture and art when incorporating Capri style into our personal space: “There is a rich history to the island and remnants still remain, now infused with a modern flair.” In the 20th century, the Cerio family, whom Aiello calls the “Cosmopolitan Royal Family of Capri”, is credited with launching the contemporary Capri style, adding English influences and even some American touches. 100% Capri never veers far from its origins. According to Aiello, “Capri style means clean lines and understated elegance – unique pieces that have something special about them.” Each piece from Aiello’s collection is imbued with the hedonistic and carefree spirit of the sun-drenched island, with dreams of summer days spent overlooking iridescent waters sipping on limoncello. If linen is known as the Prince of Fibres, then Aiello is surely the King of Linen, and 100% Capri his crowning achievement.
Q&A with Antonino Aiello WHAT DOES FASHION MEAN TO YOU? It is my hobby, my work, my passion. It’s my life. HOW DO YOU DEFINE ELEGANCE? Sophisticated simplicity, being able to carry yourself with grace and exuding serene confidence. WHICH FASHION DESIGNERS DO YOU MOST ADMIRE? Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld have both interpreted fashion with an edge beyond everyone else. Their avantgarde and research approach to fashion is what I admire most. WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT YOUR ISLAND HOME? I have a strong fondness for the architecture. There is so much history behind the walls, the pathways, courtyards and homes of Capri. Each one tells you something about the island. Equal to this is the memory of the island, of the many people who have walked the shores over the centuries and enjoyed its beauty. This connection to the island, feeling part of both its history and future, is what I love most.
DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE SPOT ON THE ISLAND? The Natural Arch in Capri and the Blue Grotto in Anacapri are each important to me and places I enjoy visiting whenever I get the chance. WHAT SUGGESTIONS WOULD YOU GIVE VISITORS TO CAPRI? Take time to explore the island and be sure to take a dip in the translucent waters of the Blue Grotto. WHAT DREW YOU TO OPENING A BOUTIQUE AT DELAIRE GRAFF ESTATE? Graff Diamonds was always an inspiration. Being a part of the team here in South Africa, on this gorgeous Estate in a beautiful country, makes me very proud. Graff is tantamount to the highest level of quality and purest of beauty. Beauty and quality are my credo and the basic concept of the 100% Capri project since the beginning.
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WINE
A FINE VINTAGE Delaire Graff Estate’s Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2013 was crowned the best red wine in the country at the Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show, cementing its status as an emblem of South African winemaking WORDS | JESSICA GLIDDON
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abernet Sauvignon is the most planted wine grape variety in the world. Believed to have been created in 17th century Bordeaux, France, when Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc were grafted, this varietal remains a favourite of the Bordeaux region and is wildly popular in California. It is now reaching new heights in South Africa, where it is currently the second most commonly planted grape variety. Delaire Graff ’s Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2013 has the honour of being one of the countryʼs most celebrated wines. This distinction was solidified when it won the coveted American Express Trophy for best Cabernet Sauvignon and the trophy for Best Red Wine Overall at the prestigious 2016 Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show. The Delaire Graff creation was crowned out of 1,067 wines submitted and was one of only 21 wines to receive a trophy. Delaire Graff was also regaled with the title of Best Overall Producer, affirming the Estateʼs commitment to excellence. In addition to these prestigious achievements, the wine received the highest rating at the fifth annual Prescient Cabernet Sauvignon Report, scoring 94 out of a possible 100, Delaire Graff ʼs second win at the awards. Where the manicured grounds of Delaire Graff Estate meet the Helshoogte mountain pass, the first rolling vineyards emerge, peeking over the ridge alongside the amphitheatre garden. These vines wind their way further upward, culminating in a single block, which stands before the Estateʼs Wine Lounge and cellar. This meticulously tended vineyard is the foundation for creating a sublime
WHERE THE MANICURED GROUNDS OF DELAIRE GRAFF ESTATE MEET THE HELSHOOGTE MOUNTAIN PASS, THE FIRST ROLLING VINEYARDS EMERGE, PEEKING OVER THE RIDGE 10 | V I E W S, I S S U E 3
WINE
A D E L I C I O U S PA I R I N G
BITTER FONDANT The flavours captured within Head Chef Michael Deg's bitter dark chocolate fondant complement and enrich the complex flavour profile of the Delaire Graff Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve for a perfectly paired decadent dessert experience.
THE DECADENT PACKAGING AND TEXTURAL LABEL IS FITTING FOR THIS CLASSICAL CREATION. ITS SCALLOPED GRAFF ICON PATTERN EMBOSSED IN WHITE REFLECTS THE WINE'S TIMELESS FEEL claret. The harvest yields 45 barrels, from which the top 21 are selected; the top five are devoted to the Laurence Graff Reserve, and the following 16 superlative barrels become part of the Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.
Ingredients:
Despite the challenges of an unpredictably wet 2013 winter season, winemaker Morné Vrey and his team produced a stunning wine with full-ripe flavours. Uniting cassis, dark fruit and spice, this complex and powerful wine brings layers of velvety texture to a lingering finish. The decadent packaging and textural label is fitting for this classical creation. Its scalloped Graff Icon pattern embossed in white reflects the wineʼs timeless feel, creating a connection between its refined, modern finesse and the unsurpassed quality of Graff.
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The Estate’s Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is very much a labour of love. Vrey carefully selects each grape that will go into making the wine, and conducts a blind taste test to ensure only the finest grapes are selected. Each bunch is hand harvested and painstakingly sorted before undergoing whole berry fermentation and tender basket pressing. The limited edition wine that results unmistakably speaks of the devotion and craftsmanship that goes into each bottle. Cabernet Sauvignon remains one of the most versatile and universally adored red wines, and in South Africa’s thriving wine industry, it reigns supreme, due in no small part to the Delaire Graff Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.
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200g soft salted butter 200g 64% Valrhona chocolate 200g icing sugar 4 eggs beaten 4 egg yolks 55g plain flour 35g cocoa powder
Method: Place the chocolate into a bowl above boiling water and melt gently. Remove the melted chocolate from the heat and keep in a warm place.
Using an electric whisk, beat the butter and icing sugar together on a high setting until pale and light, then slowly incorporate the eggs and
the extra yolks – whisk until smooth. Reduce the speed of the mixer and add the melted chocolate, a little at a time.
Once the chocolate is incorporated, sift in the flour and cocoa powder and fold it in with a large spatula. Let the mixture cool in the fridge for at least an hour. It should thicken beautifully. Preheat the oven to 190°C.
Brush the insides of a ramekin with butter (5cm diameter, 3.5cm high) and transfer the mixture into the moulds. Bake for eight minutes. Turn the fondant over onto a serving plate immediately after baking and serve with cassis ice cream, chocolate soil and cherry compote.
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CUISINE
GARDEN OF EATING Transforming humble seeds into worldclass cuisine, Head Chef of Delaire Graff Restaurant, Michael Deg, takes diners on a journey through the Estate’s edible garden WORDS | KERRY SEARLE
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here is a tranquil beauty and a pastoral charm to the picturesque Winelands of the Cape. It is no wonder these vineyards are sought after for leisurely days spent sipping wine over a superb meal. There is a certain romance to dining amid the contours of lush, manicured vines, enjoying a beautiful meal created with skill and care. The abundant countryside is filled with blossoming orchards, fragrant herbs, nutrient-rich vegetables, hidden mushrooms and roaming herds. With such a plethora of fresh ingredients on his doorstep, Head Chef of Delaire Graff Restaurant, Michael Deg, says he is never short of inspiration. The farm-to-fork, or farm-to-table, philosophy is not a recent concept. It is rather a return to a simpler way of life, with unfussy dishes and pure elements utilising local produce, preferably from one’s own garden. The term has fallen in and out of favour with critics over recent years due to its ready application. While employment of the term may come under dispute, most agree that the focus of this sustainable philosophy on reducing food-miles remains relevant, especially when the meals created are mouthwatering and beautiful to behold. Deg maintains the belief that the best dishes begin with the highest-quality ingredients. While he does not use the term farm-to-fork, for Deg, finding local farmers and building strong working relationships with them means he is able to
Walking through the herb-dotted gardens of Delaire Graff Estate, Deg speaks about the provenance of the enchanting meals he creates. Working closely with the horticultural team, he uses the vegetables, herbs and fruit that were tended on the Estate as his guide to the seasons, inspiring the whimsical combinations on his ever-changing menu.
with edible nasturtium and wood sorrel flowers from the gardens, the jelly is bursting with freshness, while the aromatic herb leaves complement the natural sweetness of the fish. For winter, Deg has reimagined the cauliflower, presenting home-grown florets in four ways: raw, tempura-battered, roasted and puréed. Each bite brings a distinctive natural flavour, together with crunchy macadamia nuts, sweet local sultanas and rich, aged Parmesan.
A favourite summer creation of his is a Franschhoek trout dish. Seared trout is complemented by finely diced, gincured trout that is tossed with fragrant Estate herbs and lemon zest before being rolled in a cucumber jelly. Served with apple and miso purée, dashi dressing and adorned
Another noteworthy dish is the mushroom terrarium dessert, dreamed up by Head Pastry Chef, André Steyn. The dessert reflects the beauty of the forest floor where the chefs often forage for mushrooms during the wet winter months.
source the superlative seasonal ingredients he loves when they cannot be found in the Estate’s plentiful greenhouse.
WORKING CLOSELY WITH THE HORTICULTURAL TEAM, DEG USES THE VEGETABLES, HERBS AND FRUIT TENDED ON THE ESTATE AS HIS GUIDE TO THE SEASONS, INSPIRING THE WHIMSICAL COMBINATIONS ON HIS EVER-CHANGING MENU
Comprising a honey-meringue and marshmallow ‘mushroom’ sitting upon a bed of panna cotta, chocolate ‘soil’ and ‘twigs’, pistachio ‘moss’ and honeycomb ‘stones’, the decadent treat is speckled with the garden’s vibrant, edible flowers as well as shoots from the Estate’s speciality greenhouse, in which micro pea, sunflower and radish shoots are grown. Having a garden of your own is something to which many chefs aspire, says Deg. “Being able to walk out of our kitchen into rows of vibrant carrots and columns of crisp sugar peas means the flavours are far more intense; an opportunity our brigade does not take for granted,” he imparts. “I encourage my chefs, friends and family to create their own edible gardens at home too. There is nothing quite as rewarding as creating your first dish from ingredients you have planted and cared for from earthy beginnings. Imagine being able to create meals without having to venture further than your backyard.” “To begin an appetising garden of your own, you need to start from the ground up,” Deg continues. Whether using raised beds, planter boxes, pots or an area in your garden, the chef suggests finding a location with natural sunlight and wind protection before ensuring the soil is fertile and nourishing since this is fundamental to the health of plants. At Delaire Graff Estate, a fully fledged wormery provides a nutrient-rich, natural fertiliser for the vegetation. Once a garden site has been selected and the groundwork has been laid, choose the seeds to be cultivated. “Raised beds are ideal for beginners, and don’t be afraid to convert from traditional rows to more intensive farming at home,”
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CUISINE
says Deg. “Without using rows, you are able to place your plants in clusters, maximising your use of space. Intensive farming is less effort to maintain, offers a wonderful use of space, requires less watering, weeding and mulching and is ideal for those with a not-so-green thumb.” “Fill your garden with the basics you use every day in the kitchen,ˮ Deg recommends. “Having a living salad larder can be very handy during the summer months.” Lettuce and cherry tomatoes produce abundant harvests and are perfect for beginners. Herbs such as basil, rosemary and thyme never go amiss in the kitchen and can easily be grown in a lovely box upon a window sill. Vegetables are another staple that Deg ensures grows throughout the year. “Find out which crops should be planted for the season you are approaching and be sure to rotate your garden, planting a crop in the same place only once every three years if possible,” Deg says. The Estate ensures a continuous harvest by planting crops in succession, with tomatoes, aubergines, spring onions, sugar peas and peppers in the spring and summer; and cauliflower, radishes, broccoli, beetroot, kale and Jerusalem artichokes in the cooler months.
THE ESTATE WORMERY
ACCORDING TO DEG, THERE IS NO ACT MORE GRATIFYING, MORE RUDIMENTARY OR MORE LIBERATING THAN COAXING FOOD FROM THE EARTH. The rhythm of nature becomes the ultimate template by which to live in the scenic countryside of the Cape Winelands. According to Deg, “There is no act more gratifying, more rudimentary or more liberating than coaxing food from the earth.” And for those who prefer to enjoy the spoils of the garden without dirty nails, explore the restaurants of the Winelands to discover cuisine bursting with delicious natural flavours, created with meticulous care by chefs whose culinary lives are determined by the seasons.
Good soil is fundamental to keeping a healthy garden. At Delaire Graff Estate, this job falls to a humble team: a group of earthworms living in the Estate’s wormery. Of all the creatures found in bountiful fields, compost heaps and farms, the earthworm is perhaps the most desirable. They are said to be the intestines of the earth, and much like human engineers, change the shape, structure and functionality of their environment, helping to stabilise the ecosystem as they move through it. In soils heavily populated with earthworms, as much as 30 tons per hectare of soil and organic matter pass through their systems annually, creating nourishing castings as they leave a trail of small passages for the movement of air and water. Digestive acids act upon natural matter passing
through the earthworm, releasing small amounts of organo-mineral complexes, including potassium and nitrogen, which plants can now absorb. These nutrients improve the soil’s fitness, benefiting the health of vegetation. The Estate wormery is a nutrition factory, continuously recycling and transforming organic leftovers from the kitchens and the Estate into valuable nutrients for the greenhouse, gardens and vineyards. The organic compost is absorbed by plants at a slower rate than those chemically created, resulting in a healthier garden for longer. A fertile, mineral-rich soil translates into nutrientrich, flavourful food. Earthworms are an asset to any garden, for these ecosystem engineers possess an essential ability to restructure and enrich the earth from within. V I E W S, I S S U E 3 | 13
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HANDS ON LUXURY Combining natural ingredients with innovative treatments, Margaret Dabbs’ winning formula is finding favour with guests of Delaire Graff Spa
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lthough advances in science and technology have prompted extraordinary innovations in skincare, it’s undeniable that nature remains the source of the finest ingredients. Internationally respected podiatrist, Margaret Dabbs, has for a long time recognised the wisdom of using time-honoured solutions. Having been disillusioned with treatment remedies that were unpleasant to use and beauty products that were ineffective, Dabbs was inspired to devise a range of products that seamlessly fused health and beauty. After searching for raw ingredients from around the globe, Dabbs opened her first foot clinic and nail spa in London in 1998 and went on to pioneer the renowned medical pedicure. Her vision was to provide luxurious, innovative, effective products and treatments that were unsurpassed in the industry and afforded healthy, beautiful hands and feet. Not surprisingly, Dabbs has been credited with establishing herself in the global beauty arena, and her products are retailed in some of the most prestigious locations worldwide, including the Spa at the spectacular Delaire Graff Estate. Having experienced for herself the indulgent, results-driven treatments offered at Dabbs’ flagship salon in London, Delaire Graff ’s Spa Director noticed a synergy with the 14 | V I E W S, I S S U E 3
superlative quality and luxury that is synonymous with Graff Diamonds. And so, the Margaret Dabbs range was introduced to the jewel of the Cape Winelands.
SCENTED WITH INVIGORATING LEMON MYRTLE, THESE
One of the most sumptuous and powerful ingredients in Dabbs’ products is emu oil, which has been used by Aboriginal Australians for millennia. Benefiting from a plethora of healing and moisturising properties, it contains not only vitamins A and E, but also the essential fatty acids, omega 3, 6 and 9, all of which help to keep skin soft, silky smooth and in supreme health.
CLEANSING, EXFOLIATING AND HYDRATING PRODUCTS
This vital oil forms the base of the Margaret Dabbs Fabulous Hands and Feet collections. Scented with invigorating lemon myrtle, these cleansing, exfoliating and hydrating products – two of which were last year honoured with coveted awards – are designed to leave skin and nails looking and feeling renewed. Fabulous Hands, Dabbs’ latest range, is infused with the delicate fragrances of geranium and mandarin and is replete with health-promoting antioxidants. It uses natural ingredients such as kelp, seed and plant extracts, and orange peel to repair, heal and replenish. Hints of white waterlily stimulate microcirculation, while wild rose revitalises the skin and comfrey reduces inflammation, encouraging renewal.
ARE DESIGNED TO LEAVE SKIN AND NAILS LOOKING AND FEELING RENEWED Margaret Dabbs’ relentless quest for excellence was recently recognised once again when her Intensive Anti-Ageing Hand Serum was named among the most outstanding international products of the year by 1,000 beauty-industry experts at the CEW Beauty Awards. Driven by the desire to find ingredients that are both pampering and purposeful, Dabbs creates products and treatments with unanimous appeal. By reverting to nature’s home-grown remedies and using ingredients that are as healing as they are opulent, Margaret Dabbs introduces the world to a range of results-driven, blissfully luxuriant formulations.
G I V I N G B AC K
A MULTIFACETED AFRICA Africa is full of potential. Graff Diamonds sources its finest stones from the continent’s soil, but also looks to nurture the place that held these treasures by supporting Africa’s youth
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ike a diamond, the FACET Foundation, founded by Laurence Graff, owner of Delaire Graff Estate and Chairman of Graff Diamonds, has many sides. Supporting the educational, health and well-being of sub-Saharan communities over the past eight years, the Foundation is a unique guiding light, always on the lookout to make a positive change. FACET’s activities span three nations of southern Africa: Lesotho, Botswana and South Africa. In Lesotho, home of the Lesotho Promise and other notable stones, the Foundation partners with Help Lesotho, a charity focused on helping those affected by AIDS. Together they built the Lesotho Graff Leadership Centre in Leribe, which focuses on educating and supporting Lesotho’s youth. Other ventures include intensive youth leadership development programmes, a safe sanctuary for Basotho girls studying to become community leaders, and computer and life skills classes that benefit both young people and adults with computer literacy, knowledge of gender equity, HIV/AIDS education, communication, goal-setting, and health decision-making. FACET stands for ‘For Africa’s Children Every Time’, supporting not only Africa’s children, but also those who care for young people. The centre has made a great impact by aiding grandmothers like Nkhono Mafiloe, 63, who lost her husband and two of her children to AIDS. She is now the sole caregiver for 10 orphaned grandchildren. Becoming involved with the leadership centre gave her a support structure and a sense of unity, which wasn’t a possibility before. Forty kilometres from Botswana’s capital, Gaborone, Stepping Stones International runs a Graff Leadership Centre in the city of Mochudi. Its ‘Finding the Leader Within’ programme is aimed at Botswana’s youth, who often find it challenging to matriculate from high school and find employment. A partnership with local fitness centres in Mochudi helps young people stay healthy and active, offering activities like netball, athletics, chess and softball. The programme’s thorough curriculum targets academic improvement, financial and literacy skills, and is aimed at strengthening school participant numbers and assisting young people with finding employment. A ceremony was hosted at Pilane Lodge in December 2015, celebrating the graduation of three classes that enrolled in the programme. It included graduates like Luckymore, once a shy child with a love for singing. His involvement with Finding the Leader Within gave
LOCAL FITNESS CENTRES IN MOCHUDI HELP YOUNG PEOPLE STAY HEALTHY AND ACTIVE, OFFERING ACTIVITIES LIKE NETBALL, ATHLETICS, CHESS AND SOFTBALL him the confidence to pursue his dreams, and after a year of being coached in voice lessons and developing his stage presence, he won the My African Dream competition for his operatic singing. Closer to Delaire Graff Estate, the FACET Foundation has been instrumental in the Cape Winelands area. Working in conjunction with the Pebbles Project to assist farming communities suffering from alcohol abuse and poverty, the Foundation is sponsoring five Mobile Learning Centres. Two vans are already in operation, and three new ones will be added to the fleet, equipped with classroom tutors and either a computer lab or library. The mobile libraries also house books, toys, games and DVDs, as well as additional computers. Funded for the next three years, the new mobile computer labs will expand support to children on farms surrounding Stellenbosch. Moving between the remote farm areas of Citrusdal, these mobile centres will offer support to five Early Childhood Development centres and four afterschool clubs, giving 250 children access to a great start in life. To make a difference for Africa’s children, visit facet-foundation.org. Other ways to contribute include enjoying a meal at the Estate, with a portion of every bill going to the Foundation, or purchasing the Graff book, as all proceeds from its sale are donated. The book is available at graffdiamonds.com. V I E W S, I S S U E 3 | 15