02 CRAFT PROJECT
Citizen of Deli Talai
CRAFT INTERNSHIP WITH RANGSUTRA
IIAD x RANGSUTRA
CRAFT CLUSTER PROJECT
Craft is an Integral part of Indian Sensibility and its Unique Identity. Fashion and its Multiple dimensions through craft related Expression impact the outcome to appeal to various sensibilities. It is important to experientially Imbibe and understand dierent craft to enrich their knowledge bank. This module provide oppurtunity for the ďŹ rst hand intersection with specialized artistians of in their environment.The visit to Bikaner village Bajju and Deli talai absorbs the craft of the desert embroidery. It was essential to know how the practices happen; how people live to lead to their work; their skills eventually to these products. Taking an inspiration from their work or their surrounding that helps to initate the motif language and advance fashion design skillsfor gainful experience. The focus of this module is to understand the textile/handicraft heritage of rajasthan and including the social responsibility to keep alive the rich tradition of their craftmanship in a rapid changing urban maket. The Brief provided by RANGSUTRA CRAFT INDIA LIMITED mentions that the student have to study the demographics, psychographics, and their traditional costumes. Post the same and develop the collection inspired by the research inline with trend reserch incorporating desert embroidery of rajasthan, which done in a group with Individual outcome and deliverables.
the local artisians of deli thalayi, bikaner
Rangsutra is a company of a thousand artisians from remote region of india - the deserts of rajasthan , hill regions of uttaranchal and assam. the goal is to ensure sustainable livelihoods for artisians and farmers by celebration of india’s rich craft heritage. socially, craftspeople and artisians come from some of the most disadvantaged communities, with very little oppurtunities for self development and growth. the fact that artisians and craftspeople still remail their skills is a miracle, given the fast changing trends in the urban market, which are the mainstay of many a rural artisians.
RANGSUTRA ACT AS A BRIDGE BETWEEN
RURAL ARTISIANS AND GLOBAL CONSUMERS TRADITIONS AND CONTEMPORARY CHANGE AND CONTINUITY
RANGSUTRA’s core value is respect for both the producer and the customer.they ensure a fair price to the producer as well as quality products to the customer. profits earned from sales go back to ensure a better life for the communities, as producers are shareholders in rangsutra. . rangsutra works with small producer groups, based in villages and small towns in remote regions of the country. a producer group consists of artisians or weavers, as well as those involved in the management of the group.the group facilitates the production process, sourcing the yarn, the dyeing and allocating designs to the different artisians who work out of thier homes.
rangsutra moodboard
THE JOURNEY BEGINS
From Staying in the Luxurious Building to sitting under the sun in the Courtyard of the villages of rajasthan: Welcome to the World of Reality
CRAFT TRAVEL Bikaner
Bajju
Bikaner
Welcome to Bikaner
Deli talai
To learn about the craft in detail we went for a trip from delji to bikaner to bajju to learn about the desert embroidery
City in norther part of rajasthan surrounded by the thar desert
Bikaner is one of desert district situated in the North-West of Rajasthan A royal city is known for ranging from forts and palaces to sweets and snacks, to handicrafts and leather articles
Culture
Hinduism is the main religion followed in Bikaner other then hinduism people from dierent tribe and religion live together.peolpe followed the rajasthani culture.
JUNAGARHFORT Junagarh Fort is a fort in the city of Bikaner, Rajasthan.the fort is made of white marble and red sand stone. the fort complex consists of palaces, courtyards, pavillions and balconies. the walls palaces etc. are ornamented with carved stones marbles, paintings and inlaid semi precious stone.
BIKANER,1594
KOTAGATEMARKET The kota gate market of bikaner is famous for its traditional stus like jewellery, costumes of rajasthan and the handloom material.
motif board inspiresd from badal mahal
The most facinating thing which i heard about the Junagarh fort was built by a dierent ruler over the centuries. In this fort their are dierent mahal. the most facinating place in junagarh Fort which inspires me the most Badal mahal or we can say cloud palace. The walls of the mahal are painted with a fresco of rain clouds. In the rain fresco photography there is a painting of krishna and radha surrounded by the blue clouds I deriveD some motifs taking an ispiration of badal mahal.
URMUL ABOUT URMUL URMUL TRUST, a non govt organisation was started in 1984 to reach out to the underprivileged and marginalized communities, especially women & children in western rajasthan. urmul seemant is situated in bajju, a hundred kilometers west of bikaner. urmul seemant works on income generation projects to empower , both socially and economically. Women artisans who decorate and accentuate fabric with thrit traditional craft of kasida. all the work distributing fabrics among themselves, Collection of products, quality checking and timely deliveris done by women themselves. URMUL is connection between rangsutra and artisians. life in urmul was completely dierent experience from our day to day life. it was a rollar coaster journey for me because i never used to stay place like that; Stay far away from our luxiorious life to manage a life of a self sustainable person. It was a dierentbut nice experience to stay their, not just for the purpose of learned exmbroidery techniques ; but for a new unforgetable experience URMUL, BAJJU
DELI THALAYI
Deli thalayi is a village situated around 80 km fro bajju.this is the village where we went to learnt the embroidery. In this village there is very diďŹƒcult life to livebecause there was no proper electricity facilities, no street light. here women do kasida traditionally for their dowry. now they do it as a source of income, and still the young girls learn the embroidery from their elders to follow the customs. women from 10-20 families here practies kasida for livelihood.they are also given training in stitching by urmul trust.
Livelihood
Communities
DOWRY SAMPLE architecture of deli thalayi
The people lead a simple and minimalistic lifestyle, the house, simple and smaller that they got it was their hearts that gained all the warmth and our hearts that were won. All of them live together under a single roof. everyone consider each other as a family, and the whole village perfom as a single unit.
Customs and Culture
The main communities involved in this craft traditionally are meghwals and jats. Both the communities give kasida as dowry traditionally. there are artisians from other communities like bhim, panwar, meena who are trained to do this craft.
People and Animals
TILAK CEREMONY
The cutome and the culture of the village is similar to my place. we witnessed to the function of the pre wedding ceremony . In this fuction all the male member of the family comes together and do all rituals of tilak cermony.
Women of dierent community of Rajasthan.
The prople of the village are very friendly and The people of the village treat animal as their family. these animals help them in earning their bread and butter
Costumes and jewellery The costumes of the rajasthani womens are very bright and vibrant. Costumes of Rajasthan are extremely lively, reecting the true spirit of the people, their culture and religion Rajasthani jewellery has a distinctive style and has unique designs. Attractive jewellery and costumes of these desert inhabitants are not meagre ornaments for them. Everything from head to toe including footwear, turban, clothes, ornaments establish the religion, identity and the social and economic status of the population of Rajasthan.
Beauty of the desert that colors live in it.
Womens of gokul village
Life is beautiful embroidery , stitched through dierent experience - Artisian
Sample developed in ďŹ eld
Running stitch
Chain stitch
Types of stitches
cross stitch
Back stitch
Feather Stitch
their motif language are derived from thier day to day life or their surroundings.
SAMPLES DEVELOPED ON THE FIELD
An image from the exibition space created by group, smaple developed on bajju village
According to the brief given by rangsuta one group is worked rangsutra and other one worked for fab india. fabindia is the biggest client of rangsutra. we got a chance to work for fabindIa. Rangsutra is the connection between us and fab india.
ALL THE BRAND STUDY RESEARCH BASED ON THE PRIMARY AND THE SECONDARY DATA BASED RESEARCH.
It is a group project in which we have to develop a collection for fabindia with individual outcome. so i which we divide category in collection which are womens ethnic,womens western , mens wear,botton wear and zero waste garment. I got an opportunity to work on western catergory. zero waste and bottom wear category must for all.
About Fabindia Fabindia is India’s largest private platform for products that are made from traditionally techniques, skills and hand based processes. Fabindia links over 55,000 craft based rural producers to modern urban markets,there by creating a base for skilled, sustainable rural employment, and preserving india’s traditional handicrafts in the process. Fabindia products are natural, craft based, contemporary, and affordable.
Brand Philosphy Fabindia was founded with the strong belief that there was a need for a vehicle for marketing the vast and diverse craft traditions of india an thereby help fulfill the need to provide and sustain employment. Fabindia blends indigenious craft techniques with contemporary designs to bring aesthetics and affordable products to today’s costumer. the endeavour is to provide customers with hand crafted products which help support and encourage good craftsmanship. the products are sourced from all over India. Fabindia works closely with artisans by providing various inputs including design, quality control, access to raw materials and production coordination. The vision continues to be to maximize the hand made element in products, wheather it is hand woven textile, hand block printing, hand embriodery or handicraft home products
PRODUCT RANGE
Women clothing
Beauty
Food
Men clothing
kids wear
Furniture
Home linen
Home decor
Accessories
DESIGN LANGUAGE OF FAB INDIA
placket
pleats/gather
Drawstring
Overlap
High-low dress Wrap dress Shift dress Maxi dress A- line dress
After multiple visit of fab india dierent stores , we were identify the brand language of fabindia. According to me thier Silhoutte are very simple and Minalmistic the fabric that they are used is Cambric, mul, khadi, mangalgiri, Dobby, silk, chanderi, and many more and their color pallete change according to their collection but mostly the color which is eveident for me is bright tones. After under the brand language of Fabindia, Its very important to understand their competitor brands.
Competative brands
To studying and analysing the competative brands and understanding their brand philosphy of the market, how these brand target each other.Primary research has been done through the visiting the competative brands and observing their design silhoutte, fabrics, design details, embroidery and their price range and compare, how these brand to the fabindia. market competation has been done on the basic of the following:
* EXPERIMENT AND NEWNESS * INDIGENOUS CRAFT PRACTICE * SUSTAINABLE PRACTICE * ORIGINALITY * PRACTICABL
• Setting up the path of revival and resurgence of the Ikat textile • Empowering and providing consistent employment to the sixth generation artisanal communities • Transformation of the craft to comfortable timeless clothing and lifestyle
•Known as one of the India's most creative textile companies •Combining contemporary design with the inspiring workmanship of traditional craft. •The uniqueness of its style lies in the texturing of fabrics, the coordination and contrasting of colours, and the inventive, unexpected use of surface treatment.
• Luxury retailer •Aim to offer the richness of Indian textile in contemporary silhouettes • Bridging the gap between craft and luxury, a platform for craftspeople to connect with global craft enthusiast
• Revival of traditional textile skills • Blending contemporary sensibilities with tradition • Open and honest relationship with its craftsperson
These are the few key silhoutte design detal, elements of design which we found intresting during the time of primary reseach of competative brands.
KATHPUTLI
we were now need to built the concept and taking forward the journey of craft travel and getting inspired by the life of the women in bikaner village and connecting it to their folk art , Kathputli ; Thr art of puppetry.
Big idea
traveller art dying out
Bright colors
( bcoz of electronic media)
- Minimalistic - Traditioanal craft in a contemporary manner Katputli
Kathputli Relevant images embroider+ color silhoutte
storytelling
- Portrayal - Destint - Reection - change - Contentment - sentimental - freedom - Nostalgic - Restricted - Mythology - Time travel -trapped - taking to self - narrative
rajasthani folk art (rajasthani culture)
Communication
puppetry
(started by bhatt community 100 yrs migrated )
kathputli
Kath + Putli wood toy Patronage support dieren types of puppetry
set puppetry costumes narrative play of ďŹ ngures
THE INSPIRATION THE INSPIRATION How the women there, played the different role at the same time. Doing kasida to taking care of their family, feeding their pets to, earing money to support their family. they manage to fulfill their each role with a beautiful smile on their face. A playful character in each of the women. The women’s resembling kathputli playing all the roles well.
Nostalgic Portrayal Minilism Role play KEYWORDS
group inspiration board
MOOD BOARD
GROUP TREND BOARD
WESTERN WEAR (Silhouette)
silhoutte and Details Keeping the Fab india sillhoutte and keyword in mind, keep shapes and details on the basic of post understanding of market research and trend research . Keyterms ; Voluminous, pleats, minimalistic, pockets, buttons
Zero waste (Silhouette)
silhoutte and Details ZERO WASTE SILHOUETTES - keep tthe fabindia silhouette in mind the key silhouette comes through market research and trend forcast.
Fabric used for ďŹ nal range
Khadi
Voil
Chanderi
Mulmul
Cotton slub
Fabric Board
PANTONE 4011 U
PANTONE 9460 U
PANTONE P 3-2 U
PANTONE 19-4052 TCX
PANTONE 3596 C
PANTONE P 8-9 U
PANTONE 122 UP
Final Collection SS 21 Color Palette
Create the essence of the color
MOTIF DEVELOPMENT The motif language are derived from the keyword of the concept ,the motif, which i observe in bajju village , junagarh fort of the bikaner , some are derived from the geometry shapes.
Motif Development
INDIVIDUAL MOTIF DVELOPED
FINAL MOTIF
BOARD
Combined group motif board (AFTER SHORTLIST)
DESIGN ITREATION (Zero waste Silhouette)
The Process zero waste
Zero waste garment were assigned to work in grounp of three,so doing somepaper exploration we take forward one of the exploration/ ideation.
Process though origami
DESIGN
(Western
ITREATION
n Silhouette)
Taking one of the western itreation forward and try to simpliďŹ ed it with few changes
women western Silhouette
color exploration for the ďŹ nal garment
Embroidery sample development
I choose this motif for the embroidery in my western silhoutte because the shape of the motif remind me the smiley shape of the pocket in the garment so i choose to work with this motif language which is done in a group, and the technique is used in the motif is chain stitch and ďŹ ll with the pakkah embroidery.
Fabric Dyeing
The Process Started the final garment with pattern making according to the pattern making. Then trace the final pattern into a fabric with half inch seam allowance. Cotton slub is the final i used around 6m. then made a frill used the gather technique and attatch it with first yoke and placket for the back.
Garment construction
after that i made a micro pleates for the lower front part that.5in intake then make a shape of smily pocket then cut if o into the shape of that. Then attach the pocket bag that is 7x9in attach with the reverse side of front pleats. then attach the upper and lower part of the garment and there is also micro pleats in sleeves,that attach with the silhouette. .
Frill
Embroidery Placement
Back placket with running stitch
Smily shape pocket (7x9)
Detail placement
Details are not the details, they make the design -Charles Eames
Final
Range