03
THE JACKET
PROJECT 09.09.2019 - 18.10.2019
JACKET
What is jacket? A jacket is a mid-length, light weight garment for the upper body which used to protect the body which is generally long-sleeved and fasten with zippers, snaps, or buttons down the front but for me jacket is one of the most difficult constructed garment which is used as a over layer to cover the upper body of the body and for the aesthetic purpose too. The brief and the aim of the project is to built the understanding of pattern making, draping, and construction is applied in this brief. The jacket is looked at from a historical, geographical, social, cultural and political view point. the project begin with understanding the concept of reverse engineering, begin by breaking down the jacked sourced by flea market, one by one dismantling in into parts. The aim of this process to understanding parts, details, material usage, terminologies, pattern, techniques and the steps of construction of a jacket and record and research the whole process. alongside the study of trend research from the future forcast wgsn and the past research from the historical purposes which helps everyone to built the individual narrative. the process will also be supported by detailed drawing and illustrations leading toward the final form of the jacket. the Last step would bring together all the reflections from all the inputs given so far and represent it by realizing the final jacket.
DiGiTAL iLLUSTRATiON OF JACKET
ENGINEERING HELLY HANSEN
HELLY HANSEN
HELLY HANSEN
DECONSTRUCTED PARTS OF PARKA JACKET
zip
HH
lining back
front lining
SLEEVE
pocket BAG
A Parka jacket was sourced, studied,analized and then opened up to understand the construction and fabric. The process begins by breaking down a jacket that is sourced, dismantling it into parts. the aim is to understand parts, details, material usage, terminologies, pattern techniques and the steps of construction of a jacket. windbreaker jacket -Brand (helly hansen)
It is premium quality jacket they had their own labelling at each part of detailing like zip, valcrow, button etc
Lining part of the jacket
Its a women parka jacket
Reverse side of the parka jacket It has a waist belt to hold the body for the perfect fit
it as a asthethic pockets on sleeves
Front part of the jacket/opening side
It has three pannel sleeves
It has a three different pannel with three different colors Detailing at every part of the jacket
KNOWLEGDE COMES BY TAKING THINGS APART AND ANALYZING THEM. BUT WISDOM COMES BY PUTTING THINGS TOGETHER. - JOHN A. MORRISON WAIST BELT
hood panel FRONT TOP PANEL
front last panel
HH
front middle panel
NEHRU
HiSTORY The achkan jacket history can be traced back to the mughal years when the courtier’s ‘’choga become the gamnent of the rich an powerful people of the courtyard. the appeal was started is india in 1940s as band gale ka coat.and become popular in the indian subcontinent.
Initialy it was made for men but now its comes for bothe men and women.
ORiGiN
“BAND GALE KA COAT”
The nehru jacket is a hip length tailored coat for men or women, with a manderian collar and front modelled on the indian achkan or sherwani, a garmnt wore by jawaharlal nehru the PM of india from 1947 to 1964
Nehru jacket has an intriguing history. Designed in India, back in the 1940s, the jacket belongs to the pre-independence era. At that time, anyone who wore the jacket was viewed as one of a high social status.
Nehru jacket was assigned to research upon focusing on the historical, cultural, social, political and geographical viewpoint.
JACKET
HOW DID IT BECOME POPULAR THE BEATLES
FUN FACT The Nehru jacket appeared as one of these brief fades after george harrison and the beatles went to india in 1966.
american youth were not as recognizout as british youth, but they were very involved in british popular music.
EVOLUTiON During the 10th century the jacket was not actually a jacket but a short shirt worn over a longer kurta and under a certain kind of coat, only worn by men. In its initial years, the jacket was manufactured mainly using Khadi.
It is Surprising that P. Jawaharlal Nehru never wore a nehru jacket Himself ,The only reason that it is stll known as Nehru jacket, Stems from the fact that in mid 60s, It was Marketed as “ NEHRU JACKET � in the west.
Initially the jacket comes only in khadi fabric but now comes in these many fabricvelvet nehru jacket jute nehru jacket woolen nehru jacket linen nehru jacket khadi nehru jackeet poly viscose nehru jacket polyster nehru jacket silk nehru jacket cotton nehru jacket
FRONT BAC
#technicality #Constructive #Digital
Basic Understanding of jacket
ACK
Lapel
Mughal era
technology
Trend topic futuristic
Fantasy Futuristic
Avengers
heroic
influencer
characters
Avengers
villian
Protuct line passionate
Trend study
Subculture Technology
Cult
influencial
Modern tales
transformation
color connect with emotion
Youth culture
Rhythm
inspiration inspiration
(Current scenrio)
emot emot
music
Connection
interpretation interpretation
expressive
feeling
art ar depth depth
Follow up
Wgsn
expression
negative negative im im political political wa wa
Graffati
Fantasy
Individuality
Fulfilness colors
rhythm rhythm
visual visual communic communic
Emotions
a a wa w
Need
Youth Magic shades of color
movie Life changing
transformation transformation
fe fe illegal illegal
positive/megativ positive/megati
To start built the concept i was supposed to final a trend topic hich i take forward which connect to me or the areai want to take forward. A genernal direction in which i move forward to the next direction.Fashion trend are influenced by populer figures in culture .
connecti connect
n
defining defining view view point point
tions tions
culture culture show show Individuality Individuality through through graffiti graffiti
trend trend
bold bold
t rt
reflect reflect culture culture
doodles doodles
emotional emotional connect connect
mpact mpact also also ay ay
contrast contrast happiness happiness
GRAFFiTi GRAFFiTi
ction ction
ay of way of expression expression
influence influence people people through through art art (youth (youth influence) influence)
mood mood colors/trpography colors/trpography /black /black and and white white
n n
eeling eeling
graffiti graffiti art art
Colors Colors define define personality personality
ve impact ive impact
ion tion
confidence confidence
combination combination movement movement
flow flow
GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI
GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI
B R E A K F R E E S P I R I T
The thought of breakfree spirit coming out from the youth culture of graďŹƒti art which is evi dent in the current scenario. An anonymous tool used to self express. people in these context comes and show their creativity.breakfree spirit is all about self expressive attitude of people who want to express themself without any restriction.
D
A
R
E
T
O
B
E
B
O
L
D
* self expression will be the key:
DARE TO BE BOLD
Embrace the individuality and reect the personality through style.
* make a statement with colour and pattern: colour and
BREAKFREE SPIRIT A/W 20-21
digital prints are the newest novelty update for this season.
* Bright colours continue to reign: High-energy colour comes
for A/W 20/21, with bold brights appearing as both accent and core \ tones.
* focus on gender-neutral designs: The silhouette will be the gender neutral.
Details The silhoutte will be The gender neutral And th features will be the sharpand the material choice to bring the character of the personality. Key Direction
Bright and bold Colors are immediately establishing the presence and indirectly conveying the message to everyone that the person is daring, bright and exciting personality.
Experiment with the silhoutte is the main feature and play with the colors, panels, Pockets, seams and more.
trend research through the wgsn and the primary research which connect to the inspiration breakfree sprit.
Client Profile NAME : Dizy AGE : 24 years PLACE: Egypt OCCUPATiON: hiphop dancer and an avid painter ABOUT DiZY : she comes from a family where creativity is valued and nurtured. she believes art in her blood, because of her mother, who encouraged her talents, is also a painter. she got into hip-hop through breakdancing and she got to know that graffiti is also one element of hip-hop. she believes in developed her style and the bold color and the pattern desires her individuality and confidence and shows a powerful form of expression and which expresses herself.
CHARACTERSTICS OF CLIENT
Influential Expressive Passionate Bold Enthusiastic
COLOR BOARD : The self-expression will bring out vibrant and bright colors showing strong personality. even the best way to showcase the indiviuality through color.
PANTONE 7691 C
PANTONE 11 -0601 TCX
PANTONE 107 C
PANTONE 7691 C
PANTONE 11 -0601 TCX
PANTONE 107 C
taking one of the ideation forward, using the color placement for the ďŹ nal jacket
Fabric board : explore dierent type of fabrics for the jacket, the fabric which i explored is squba ,tafta ,crepe ,wool and many more,
PATTERN MAKING FOR THE FINAL JACKET USING THE MEASUREMENT OF MENS DUMMY
Process
Constructing the jacket was very chalanging abut some thing very different and exiting.
AFTER PATTERN MAKING OF JACKET USE THAT PATTERN FOR THE TRACING AND CUTTING OF THE FABRIC AND STITCH THE JACKING USING THE UNDERSTANDING OF STITCH OF BASIC JACKET BLOCK.
DURING THE TIME OF STITCH USE THE IMS OF THE JACKET LIKE ZIP,TICH BUTTON ETC.
Detachable Hoodie Pannel Plastic zip Patch pocket
27inch
piping Pocket 23 ich
Patch asthetic pocket
Waist belt
measuring the jacket with proper detail
5.5 inch
FITTING join the end point of the both pannel equally parallel
Change rib into waist belt
metallic zip change into plastic zip
metallic zip change into plastic zip
Seeing the garment on body form its time to put the jacket on he human body to chech the ďŹ ttings and Measurement and improve the correction according to the ďŹ tting
increase the widht of the hoodie
SHOOT Increase the size of side pocket
metallic zip change into plastic zip
I explored a lot of different types of fabric, but the most intresting fabric that was going with my cocept was banana crepe for the outer layer and tafta for lining.Working with the fabric was becoming very difficuly because the fabric was very sleepy and I am exploring that fabric for the first time.
The final garment was made, keeping in mind the mistakes that occured in the muslin. From the panell match to the correct trims with the proper measurement and the fitting thats the final outcome of the Breakfree spirit A/W 21 .
Breakfree
Flat digital illustration of ďŹ nal jacket
Spirit
Artistic Illustration to create with visual essence
Unisex jacket
Inframe : Honey kamboj Photogrphy : Ujjwal singh