The Jacket Project

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THE JACKET

PROJECT 09.09.2019 - 18.10.2019



JACKET

What is jacket? A jacket is a mid-length, light weight garment for the upper body which used to protect the body which is generally long-sleeved and fasten with zippers, snaps, or buttons down the front but for me jacket is one of the most difficult constructed garment which is used as a over layer to cover the upper body of the body and for the aesthetic purpose too. The brief and the aim of the project is to built the understanding of pattern making, draping, and construction is applied in this brief. The jacket is looked at from a historical, geographical, social, cultural and political view point. the project begin with understanding the concept of reverse engineering, begin by breaking down the jacked sourced by flea market, one by one dismantling in into parts. The aim of this process to understanding parts, details, material usage, terminologies, pattern, techniques and the steps of construction of a jacket and record and research the whole process. alongside the study of trend research from the future forcast wgsn and the past research from the historical purposes which helps everyone to built the individual narrative. the process will also be supported by detailed drawing and illustrations leading toward the final form of the jacket. the Last step would bring together all the reflections from all the inputs given so far and represent it by realizing the final jacket.




DiGiTAL iLLUSTRATiON OF JACKET

ENGINEERING HELLY HANSEN

HELLY HANSEN

HELLY HANSEN

DECONSTRUCTED PARTS OF PARKA JACKET

zip

HH

lining back

front lining

SLEEVE

pocket BAG


A Parka jacket was sourced, studied,analized and then opened up to understand the construction and fabric. The process begins by breaking down a jacket that is sourced, dismantling it into parts. the aim is to understand parts, details, material usage, terminologies, pattern techniques and the steps of construction of a jacket. windbreaker jacket -Brand (helly hansen)

It is premium quality jacket they had their own labelling at each part of detailing like zip, valcrow, button etc

Lining part of the jacket

Its a women parka jacket

Reverse side of the parka jacket It has a waist belt to hold the body for the perfect fit

it as a asthethic pockets on sleeves

Front part of the jacket/opening side

It has three pannel sleeves

It has a three different pannel with three different colors Detailing at every part of the jacket

KNOWLEGDE COMES BY TAKING THINGS APART AND ANALYZING THEM. BUT WISDOM COMES BY PUTTING THINGS TOGETHER. - JOHN A. MORRISON WAIST BELT

hood panel FRONT TOP PANEL

front last panel

HH

front middle panel


NEHRU

HiSTORY The achkan jacket history can be traced back to the mughal years when the courtier’s ‘’choga become the gamnent of the rich an powerful people of the courtyard. the appeal was started is india in 1940s as band gale ka coat.and become popular in the indian subcontinent.

Initialy it was made for men but now its comes for bothe men and women.

ORiGiN

“BAND GALE KA COAT”

The nehru jacket is a hip length tailored coat for men or women, with a manderian collar and front modelled on the indian achkan or sherwani, a garmnt wore by jawaharlal nehru the PM of india from 1947 to 1964

Nehru jacket has an intriguing history. Designed in India, back in the 1940s, the jacket belongs to the pre-independence era. At that time, anyone who wore the jacket was viewed as one of a high social status.

Nehru jacket was assigned to research upon focusing on the historical, cultural, social, political and geographical viewpoint.


JACKET

HOW DID IT BECOME POPULAR THE BEATLES

FUN FACT The Nehru jacket appeared as one of these brief fades after george harrison and the beatles went to india in 1966.

american youth were not as recognizout as british youth, but they were very involved in british popular music.

EVOLUTiON During the 10th century the jacket was not actually a jacket but a short shirt worn over a longer kurta and under a certain kind of coat, only worn by men. In its initial years, the jacket was manufactured mainly using Khadi.

It is Surprising that P. Jawaharlal Nehru never wore a nehru jacket Himself ,The only reason that it is stll known as Nehru jacket, Stems from the fact that in mid 60s, It was Marketed as “ NEHRU JACKET � in the west.

Initially the jacket comes only in khadi fabric but now comes in these many fabricvelvet nehru jacket jute nehru jacket woolen nehru jacket linen nehru jacket khadi nehru jackeet poly viscose nehru jacket polyster nehru jacket silk nehru jacket cotton nehru jacket


FRONT BAC

#technicality #Constructive #Digital

Basic Understanding of jacket


ACK

Lapel


Mughal era

technology

Trend topic futuristic

Google

Fantasy Futuristic

Avengers

heroic

influencer

characters

Avengers

villian

Protuct line passionate

Trend study

Subculture Technology

Cult

influencial

Modern tales

transformation

color connect with emotion

Youth culture

Rhythm

inspiration inspiration

(Current scenrio)

emot emot

music

Connection

interpretation interpretation

expressive

feeling

art ar depth depth

Follow up

Wgsn

expression

negative negative im im political political wa wa

Graffati

Fantasy

Individuality

Fulfilness colors

rhythm rhythm

visual visual communic communic

Emotions

a a wa w

Need

Youth Magic shades of color

movie Life changing

transformation transformation

fe fe illegal illegal

positive/megativ positive/megati

To start built the concept i was supposed to final a trend topic hich i take forward which connect to me or the areai want to take forward. A genernal direction in which i move forward to the next direction.Fashion trend are influenced by populer figures in culture .

connecti connect


n

defining defining view view point point

tions tions

culture culture show show Individuality Individuality through through graffiti graffiti

trend trend

bold bold

t rt

reflect reflect culture culture

doodles doodles

emotional emotional connect connect

mpact mpact also also ay ay

contrast contrast happiness happiness

GRAFFiTi GRAFFiTi

ction ction

ay of way of expression expression

influence influence people people through through art art (youth (youth influence) influence)

mood mood colors/trpography colors/trpography /black /black and and white white

n n

eeling eeling

graffiti graffiti art art

Colors Colors define define personality personality

ve impact ive impact

ion tion

confidence confidence

combination combination movement movement

flow flow

GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI

GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI GRAFFITI


B R E A K F R E E S P I R I T


The thought of breakfree spirit coming out from the youth culture of graďŹƒti art which is evi dent in the current scenario. An anonymous tool used to self express. people in these context comes and show their creativity.breakfree spirit is all about self expressive attitude of people who want to express themself without any restriction.


D

A

R

E

T

O

B

E

B

O

L

D


* self expression will be the key:

DARE TO BE BOLD

Embrace the individuality and reect the personality through style.

* make a statement with colour and pattern: colour and

BREAKFREE SPIRIT A/W 20-21

digital prints are the newest novelty update for this season.

* Bright colours continue to reign: High-energy colour comes

for A/W 20/21, with bold brights appearing as both accent and core \ tones.

* focus on gender-neutral designs: The silhouette will be the gender neutral.

Details The silhoutte will be The gender neutral And th features will be the sharpand the material choice to bring the character of the personality. Key Direction

Bright and bold Colors are immediately establishing the presence and indirectly conveying the message to everyone that the person is daring, bright and exciting personality.

Experiment with the silhoutte is the main feature and play with the colors, panels, Pockets, seams and more.

trend research through the wgsn and the primary research which connect to the inspiration breakfree sprit.


Client Profile NAME : Dizy AGE : 24 years PLACE: Egypt OCCUPATiON: hiphop dancer and an avid painter ABOUT DiZY : she comes from a family where creativity is valued and nurtured. she believes art in her blood, because of her mother, who encouraged her talents, is also a painter. she got into hip-hop through breakdancing and she got to know that graffiti is also one element of hip-hop. she believes in developed her style and the bold color and the pattern desires her individuality and confidence and shows a powerful form of expression and which expresses herself.

CHARACTERSTICS OF CLIENT

Influential Expressive Passionate Bold Enthusiastic



COLOR BOARD : The self-expression will bring out vibrant and bright colors showing strong personality. even the best way to showcase the indiviuality through color.


PANTONE 7691 C

PANTONE 11 -0601 TCX

PANTONE 107 C






PANTONE 7691 C

PANTONE 11 -0601 TCX

PANTONE 107 C

taking one of the ideation forward, using the color placement for the ďŹ nal jacket


Fabric board : explore dierent type of fabrics for the jacket, the fabric which i explored is squba ,tafta ,crepe ,wool and many more,


PATTERN MAKING FOR THE FINAL JACKET USING THE MEASUREMENT OF MENS DUMMY

Process

Constructing the jacket was very chalanging abut some thing very different and exiting.


AFTER PATTERN MAKING OF JACKET USE THAT PATTERN FOR THE TRACING AND CUTTING OF THE FABRIC AND STITCH THE JACKING USING THE UNDERSTANDING OF STITCH OF BASIC JACKET BLOCK.

DURING THE TIME OF STITCH USE THE IMS OF THE JACKET LIKE ZIP,TICH BUTTON ETC.

Detachable Hoodie Pannel Plastic zip Patch pocket

27inch

piping Pocket 23 ich

Patch asthetic pocket

Waist belt

measuring the jacket with proper detail

5.5 inch


FITTING join the end point of the both pannel equally parallel

Change rib into waist belt

metallic zip change into plastic zip

metallic zip change into plastic zip

Seeing the garment on body form its time to put the jacket on he human body to chech the ďŹ ttings and Measurement and improve the correction according to the ďŹ tting


increase the widht of the hoodie

SHOOT Increase the size of side pocket

metallic zip change into plastic zip


I explored a lot of different types of fabric, but the most intresting fabric that was going with my cocept was banana crepe for the outer layer and tafta for lining.Working with the fabric was becoming very difficuly because the fabric was very sleepy and I am exploring that fabric for the first time.


The final garment was made, keeping in mind the mistakes that occured in the muslin. From the panell match to the correct trims with the proper measurement and the fitting thats the final outcome of the Breakfree spirit A/W 21 .


Breakfree

Flat digital illustration of ďŹ nal jacket


Spirit

Artistic Illustration to create with visual essence



Unisex jacket

Inframe : Honey kamboj Photogrphy : Ujjwal singh






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