QEST Magazine Spring 2014

Issue 29 Spring 2014 the queen elizabeth scHolarship trust MAGAZINE

In this issue Apprenticeship Schemes

Conservation at Westminster Abbey

Awards & Events

New Scholars

QEST

Apprenticeship Schemes

QEST Launches Craft Apprentice Scheme

Sanna Palosaari’s shoes for the Silver Jubilee - John Lobb Ltd. (photo by Aleksi Niemela)

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or the past four years QEST has considered how it can provide more support for craft apprenticeships. Since 1991 the Trust has funded many apprentices but has never become directly involved with their employers. Now, with the escalating expense of education, the time is right for QEST to take apprenticeships within its remit.

QEST is the ideal conduit having direct links with: • Royal Warrant holders, who demand a level of perfection reliant upon British craftsmanship and are committed to training the next generation • The Royal Household, who has expressed its support in providing placements and giving specialist skills advice • QEST scholars who have developed their businesses and want to share their skills, but the financial commitment is too onerous.

Nick Farrow, Chairman of QEST announced that QEST will award four apprenticeships in Spring 2014. This will ensure a period of trial and, once established, outside funding will be sourced to build up the scheme. Currently 100% of money raised goes directly to support scholarships and apprenticeships. To this end, Lyanne Mansfield QEST’s newly appointed Executive Director will build on the excellent success QEST has had to date and further develop the charity as it moves to a new level.

“There are several levels of apprenticeship for those aged 16 and over and whilst there is technically no upper age limit for apprenticeships - full grants for employers only exist for those recruiting 16-18 year olds.

Our research into the craft sector showed that nearly 50% of makers are returning to craft or have moved into craft as a second career so we need to see entry routes into the craft sector diversified,” said Rosy Greenlees, Executive Director, Crafts Council.

“The recruitment and effective training of people of all ages wanting to work in the craft industry is fundamental to its future. QEST’s involvement in the development of the Apprenticeship Scheme is a very exciting move. Funding apprenticeships is a challenge for many companies particularly the smaller ones and this scheme will address a growing need,” said Richard Peck, Secretary of the Royal Warrant Holders Association.

The risk is that many of these makers are unlikely to benefit from new opportunities through apprenticeship schemes as businesses cannot afford to employ older apprentices.

The Crafts Council would like to see improved support for micro-businesses to set up new apprenticeships. QEST is therefore meeting this requirement as it does not stipulate an upper age limit and, by appealing directly to Royal Warrant holders as well as the talented QEST scholars who have become ambassadors in their craft, it will secure placements for apprentices to develop their practical skills.

The Crafts Council’s research has indicated that there are currently few formal contemporary craft apprenticeships with a handful that exist informally. Apprenticeships are an important model for formalising existing work experience and increasing levels of business skills in the craft sector.

Issue 29 Spring 2014

Learning From The Masters “It is essential for us as a business to be training up people all the time,” said William Lobb of John Lobb Ltd. “We need the support of those that fund traditional crafts. We have enjoyed a mutually beneficial relationship with QEST and are pleased to be able to assist in establishing a QEST apprenticeship programme.”

Sanna Palosaari was a textile designer studying in her native Finland when she tried her hand at shoemaking. She worked for two years with Lobb before they offered her an apprenticeship, partly funded with a £5,000 QEST scholarship. “Master shoemaker Mr. Ronnie was my teacher and he was really amazing,” Sanna recalls, “I learnt so much from him and also from another skilled shoemaker Marcus, who still teaches there.”

During her five year apprenticeship she visited shoemakers in Yorkshire where she learned different techniques including ladies high heel shoes. After eight years at Lobb’s premises she acquired her own studio and nowadays works from home and still fulfils commissions for Lobb, regularly visiting their shop at 9 St. James’s Street. “It is a great idea that QEST will start an Apprenticeship Scheme,” said Sanna, “college is necessary for the theory, but especially for these skills, practice is the only way to learn.”

Claire O’Flaherty was one of the first six scholars to be awarded funds in 1991. She had already been working at John Lobb Ltd. for two years and was coming to the end of her apprenticeship. She wanted to purchase equipment, gain more knowledge and learn different shoe construction techniques. The £2,500 scholarship enabled her to work with other makers focusing on different methods of construction including ladies work and slippers. While taking a break to have a family, the Ulster Folk and Transport Museum invited Claire to demonstrate the art of shoemaking. The experience reinvigorated her passion. “The link with Lobb has been crucial,” explained Claire. “I missed the creativity of shoemaking and it has been wonderful to return to it. They have been very supportive of me throughout my training and my whole career.”

Sanna Palosaari at the bench at John Lobb Ltd. (photo by Aleksi Niemela)

Claire O’Flaherty showcasing one of her creations

QEST

News

QEST Creates and Conserves at The Abbey

Wayne Hart at Westminster Abbey

Westminster Abbey has an abundance of British craft, in every medium possible – traditional and contemporary. Every year more than a million visitors come to admire the 700 year old building. Many head directly to Poets’ Corner. The newest memorial was unveiled on the 22nd November and was designed and made by QEST scholar, Wayne Hart. Meanwhile, Lewis Robins-Grace, a recently graduated conservator, has started her internship within Preventative Conservation at Westminster Abbey.

Wayne Hart Wayne was greatly honoured to receive a commission from Westminster Abbey to design and make a memorial to C.S. Lewis in Poets’ Corner. The first poet to be buried in the South Transept was Geoffrey Chaucer and since then writers from Jane Austen to Lord Tennyson have been commemorated in the Abbey.

Wayne used a contemporary letter form to reflect Lewis’ imagination and freedom within

his writing but, was sufficiently restrained to respect the dignity of the ledger stone that he carved in Purbeck Green Marble.

Lewis’ quotation “I believe in Christianity as I believe the sun has risen, not only because I see it but because by it I see everything else.” encircles the poet’s name and dates. It was unveiled at a service given by the Dean of Westminster, the very Reverend Dr. John Hall on 22nd November 2013 to mark the fiftieth anniversary of C.S. Lewis’ death.

Last autumn, Wayne was selected from over 1,100 makers as craft&design magazine’s Maker of the Year 2013. This was in addition to the Gold Award he received in the Specialist Media section.

Lewis Robins-Grace During the summer, QEST scholar Lewis Robins-Grace gained a place on an Institute for Conservation (ICON) Internship in Preventive Conservation at Westminster Abbey funded by the Heritage Lottery Fund (HLF).

Lewis Robins-Grace at Westminster Abbey

Issue 29 Spring 2014

Lewis started her internship at Westminster Abbey at the beginning of October and has already had a chance to develop her Preventive Conservation skills. The Conservation Housekeeping schedule has been handed over to Lewis for the duration of her Internship.

This involves daily and weekly cleaning of some of the most important monuments and areas of the Abbey, including the Cosmati Pavement and the Chapel of Edward the Confessor.

Lewis also had a chance to work with the Conservation Department during the annual re-waxing of the Grave of the Unknown Warrior, which was carried out in preparation

for Remembrance Day. Amongst other things, she will be carrying out a condition survey of the monuments in the Great Cloister, and assisting the conservators with dust monitoring and Integrated Pest Management.

The vast range of materials and objects which make up the Abbey’s collection offer Lewis an incredible opportunity to develop her knowledge, understanding and experience of Preventive Conservation. Lewis is very grateful to HLF for making this Internship possible, and to ICON for facilitating the process. It is a great privilege for her to have such an extended experience of work in Westminster Abbey.

Qest Funds Award Winning Project Mandeep Mann received her QEST scholarship to study MA Textiles at RCA, supported by Garfield Weston Foundation in March 2012. Since then she has used a £1,000 travel bursary awarded by the Worshipful Company of Dyers (for the use of colour) to gather visual inspiration in Paris for her final project. In April 2013 she was awarded two first prizes with a further two commendations by the Bradford Textile Society, who exhibited her work in the Salts Mills. During the ceremony she received an additional award, the Designers Guild Plaque, which is typically given to a university for outstanding work and to receive this accolade as an individual is an exceptional achievement.

Mandeep’s final collection of wallpapers was sponsored by Space Innovation and Macro Art. “It was a brilliant experience to work with industry,” enthused Mandeep. “It enabled me to form strong relationships within these companies and the opportunity to continue working with them now that I have graduated.”

“The QEST scholarship allowed me to fully utilize the facilities at the Royal College of Art. It enabled me to work with a wide range of materials and techniques. The scholarship has allowed me to produce textiles of a very high standard and hence has led to further recognition by the industry, further scholarships, awards and press coverage,” explained Mandeep. www.mandeepmann.blogspot.co.uk

Mandeep Mann

Visit: www.westminster-abbey.org

QEST

News

Double Take Mel Howse (glass and enamel artist) and Hannah Griffiths (mosaic artist) have created a stir at St Cuthbert’s Church in Portsmouth with their craft installation.

Mel designed and made a remarkable baptismal font in fired enamel and spun steel, entitled The Vortex Font. Hannah completed the set with a vibrant mosaic base at the centre of the church.

The luminous blue basin has stylised images of

fish and the steel pedestal stands on an intricate blue and white mosaic which Hannah has cleverly incorporated into the existing red brick floor. Both pieces are designed to exist together or to stand alone. Mel took on the commission, inviting fellow scholar Hannah into the process as her designs developed for two pieces.

together, discussing ways of creating our art and expanding our knowledge.” This unique work of art celebrated its first christening in November. www.hannahgriffithsmosaics.com www.melhowseecclesiastical.co.uk

“Although practising in our own specialist field,” said Mel, “we really enjoyed working

Mel Howse’s font (1m diameter) at St. Cuthbert’s Church, Portsmouth

Hannah Griffith’s mosaic floor completes a contemporary setting within St. Cuthbert’s Church, Portsmouth

Issue 29 Spring 2014

Mentoring: Hand in Glove Royal Warrant holders can provide vital support to QEST scholars by sharing their business acumen and practical knowledge within the same specialist skills set.

Katherine Pogson, a leather designer and worker was preparing to teach a couple of courses at West Dean in Chichester, one of which was glove making by hand. As she was keen to learn more about the manufacturing process it was time to meet Genevieve James of Cornelia James, Glovemakers by appointment to Her Majesty The Queen.

“Genevieve showed me a number of their glove designs in cotton, lace and wool jersey, and I began to understand how important the choice of the correct, fine quality fabric is to the finished glove. You really do have to try them on to see how good the cut is; slim-fitting, elegant, and incredibly practical and warm. I can see why HRH The Duchess of Cambridge, Nicole Kidman and Madonna all love them,” exclaimed Katherine.

As a leather specialist, Katherine was particularly interested in the newly developed ski glove and mitten designs in possum fur and lamb nappa. Genevieve explained how she combined the best possible natural materials for warmth and breathability with high-tech performance fabrics in the lining and refined it to create a stylish design that could be worn in its own right outside of the sports context. She found the attention to concept and detail was truly inspiring.

Genevieve James and Katherine Pogson

“In addition, all at Cornelia James were incredibly generous with their time and knowledge, giving me a great deal of practical business advice on how to approach the export market, which trade and retail fairs to consider and insights into dealing with publicity and press loan enquiries”.

Katherine hopes to design and produce a Cornelia James leather glove and will be meeting Genevieve again this year. Katherine also runs a series of leather masterclasses, more information at: www.designercourses.co.uk www.katherinepogson.com www.corneliajames.com

Cornelia James’ newly designed ski glove

QEST

News

Renaissance Inspiration Florence, the birthplace of the Renaissance has become a honeypot for QEST this year with three scholars working and studying in the Tuscan city.

When Meera Sleight applied to QEST, she was an established textile designer producing innovative fabric ranges for Liberty and having worked with iconic fashion houses such as Lanvin, Chloe and Acquascutum.

She wanted to return to a more handcrafted approach and QEST funded her Royal School of Needlework’s technical hand embroidery course. As a direct result of her newly acquired skills, she was offered a position as Senior Print Designer at Emilio Pucci in Florence last summer. “The role is print design,” explained Meera, “but excitingly, embroidery is a significant part of every Pucci collection.

I have had the opportunity to learn more about stitch in a contemporary context and to see how it is applied in a more commercial context.”

Portrait painter Jamie Coreth was studying at The London Atelier of Representational Art (LARA) when he received the offer to be art history lecturer and part time instructor at the Florence Academy of Art. He took up the position in the autumn and will return to London to complete his QEST funded course at LARA in the summer.

Meera Sleight, Textile Designer working in her studio

Benjamin Arnold, completed a three week artists’ residency in Switzerland before returning to Florence to complete his third and final year at the FAA (see new scholars at the end of the magazine).

Benjamin Arnold and Jamie Coreth in Florence

Issue 29 Spring 2014

Faithful Friend After Ceramicist, Jonathan Williams heard Robert Freidus talk at Highgate Cemetery he was inspired to visit Staglieno Cemetery in Genoa to study the memorial sculptures. These life sized figures are renowned for their realistic quality and the precise attention to detail.

“Staglieno’s peaceful setting provided the perfect backdrop to observe, sketch and consider my approach to a similar scale,” said Jonathan. “I have begun creating a number of dog studies in porcelain and am very excited in how the work is progressing.” www.jonwilliamsceramics.co.uk

Stop Press 15th January 2014: Jonathon was awarded the 2014 Charlotte Frazer Prize in ceramics; this prestigious accolade is awarded to two second year ceramics and glass students at the Royal College of Art for the best work in progress and includes a financial aspect to help with work going forward.

Jonathan Williams working, inspired by the memorial sculptures in Staglieno Cemetery

QEST

News

CALLING ALL SCHOLARS: POSTER COMPETITION Established by Douglas Hayter in 1946, Hayter have been “Makers of the Finest Lawnmowers” for over 65 years.

Pioneers of the rotary lawn mower, Hayter Limited was first awarded the Royal Warrant in January 1960, and continues to supply high quality lawn-care products to homeowners and professionals through specialist garden machinery stores to this day.

2014 sees the 100th anniversary of Douglas Hayter’s birth and the company has decided to celebrate this event by developing a series of “heritage” posters for use in store showrooms around the country.

Julie Dommett, Marketing Manager for Residential and Landscape Contractor products explains, “We wanted to celebrate the heritage of the brand by creating some posters that would personify quality and tradition, whilst bringing a splash of colour and style to Dealer’s showrooms.

“As a British manufacturer we fully support QEST’s objectives, and welcome the chance to work with QEST and their scholars on a project. We are therefore pleased to launch this Hayter Heritage Poster Design competition.”

Hayter are offering entrants £500 for each design selected to go into print and will also make a contribution to QEST. Those interested in entering the competition should email julia.robinson@qest.org.uk for a detailed brief and an application form.

Entries should be received by 28th February 2014 and winners will be announced in March.

All entrants will be exhibited in a special show during 2014.

Want to Support QEST?

QEST is in constant need of support from donors to enable craftspeople to fulfil their potential. Without this financial support we would be unable to help talented British makers to excel and make a valued

contribution to the sector. Please do not hesitate to contact us via Julia Robinson (julia.robinson@qest.org.uk) if you are interested in getting involved.

QEST

Awards

Awards and Accolades

Kerry Lemon’s window display for Harvey Nichols Kerry Lemon’s cover illustration for Waitrose Magazine, celebrating 100 years of the Chelsea Flower Show

Kerry Lemon’s collaboration with Harvey Nichols in Edinburgh received the Best Windows Graphic accolade at the VM & Display Awards. She frequently works with Royal Warrant holders including window displays for Smythson, magazine illustrations for Waitrose and her Christmas designs adorned an exclusive Fortnum & Mason range including a biscuit tin, advent calendar and festive fudge.

Sweet Success – James Hamill received two accolades at the London Honey Show in October 2013. The first was the prestigious London Beekeeper of the Year for his contribution to the London beekeeping community and his years of dedication to apiculture. The second was the Best Honey in London as voted by members of the public attending the event at the Lancaster London Hotel.

James Hamill collects the Beekeeper of the Year award 2013

Issue 29 Spring 2014

Andrew Swinscoe award winning cheese shop

Big Cheese - Affineur (cheese-refiner), Andy Swinscoe opened the Courtyard and Dairy near Settle in December 2012. His shop was awarded “Best New Cheese Retailer” at the prestigious annual British Cheese Awards in September 2013.

In November, he received two additional prestigious awards at the World Cheese Awards held at the BBC Good Food Show, with the shop being awarded ‘Best Cheese Counter’ and Andy Swinscoe receiving ‘Cheesemonger of the Year’.

The judges cited the Courtyard Dairy’s championing of small farmhouse cheesemakers in Britain, and its dedication to supplying cheese in perfect condition and of the highest-quality, as major contributors to this award.

www.kerrylemon.co.uk www.thehivehoneyshop.co.uk www.thecourtyarddairy.co.uk

QEST

Events

Crafts for Country Pursuits Holland & Holland is founded on exceptional craftsmanship. For the past two years it has invited QEST scholars to show their work in its Mayfair flagship store. Six scholars welcomed the opportunity to exhibit to a new audience.

Mary Wing-To’s leather horse’s head

Lai Symes’ game bird feather hat

Eyizera Phoenix produced a poster featuring nine gundogs with ten limited edition prints now available at £150 each. Lai Symes made a range of hats especially for the exhibition, featuring game bird feathers. Mary Wing-To exhibited a stunning horse’s head exquisitely moulded by hand, entirely from leather, including a full working bridle, highlighting her skills as a Master Saddlemaker, a fashion designer and sculptor. Jack Row’s cuff links and range of pens were greatly admired, particularly his show stopping diamond encrusted fountain pen. Daniel Maier received funding from QEST to study gun engraving which he uses as an inlay within his fine furniture design. Flett Bertram focuses on British textile embellishment, such as embroidery and displayed pieces of her creative work.

Zoe Harding has designed and made a range of cuffs inspired by India, its architecture and its wildlife. She has used snakeskins in vibrant colours and incorporated peacock feathers. This exclusive collection, “Zoe Harding for Holland & Holland” will be available in their London and New York stores from February 2014. www.hollandandholland.com www.zoeharding.com www.marywingto.com www.jackrow.com www.dmaier.co.uk www.laihats.co.uk

Zoe Harding’s collection for Holland & Holland

Issue 29 Spring 2014

Julian Stair’s solo exhibition Quietus: The Vessel, Death and the Human Body first opened in July 2012 at Middlesbrough Institute of Modern Art and is now showing at London’s Somerset House. Quietus addresses the containment of the body in death and features a series of artist made funerary works, from cinerary jars to life-size sarcophagi, drawing upon the symbolic language of ceramic vessels and offering an alternative means for engaging with this challenging subject.

Quietus is at Somerset House until the 26th January 2014. www.julianstair.com

Julian Stairs pieces from his exhibition Quietus: The Vessel, Death and the Human Body © Jan Baldwin

The Landscape Show Landscape generously supported QEST by providing exhibition space for eight scholars whose work particularly lent itself to the show’s theme: ‘Where indoors meets outdoors’. Some scholars demonstrated their craft at an exhibition in London’s Battersea Park.

QEST scholars participating in Landscape 2013 - Left to Right: Jenny Pickford (artist blacksmith), Jennifer Gray (silversmith), Wally Gilbert (silversmith and ironworker), Gary Drostle (mosaic artist); Wayne Hart (lettercutter); Hannah Griffiths (mosaic artist), Andrian Melka (sculptor) [missing from photograph is Zoe Cull, (lettercutter)].

Luxurious Leather Sarah Edwards displayed her bespoke range of bags, belts and accessories at the Highgrove Christmas Shopping event at Clarence House. Setting up a showcase of her work in Clarence House’s Garden Room, Sarah said “It was wonderful to be part of such an exciting initiative, helping to raise funds for The Prince of Wales’s Charitable Foundation whilst showing some of the best British crafts.” Her hand stitched Gladstone bag attracted particular attention with one visitor commenting that it was large enough to take a baby. Prince George perhaps? www.francesgeorge.co.uk www.highgroveshop.com

Sarah Edwards

Sarah Edwards’ bespoke handbag

QEST

RWHA Support

Thinking Outside of the Box

by Design was acquired by Arqadia, the UK’s leading supplier of moulding and mountboard to the art and framing market. This move provided the support, investment and resources needed to help develop the company, improve its customer service and explore some exciting new product opportunities.

Stuart Welch working in his studio

Holder of the Royal Warrant by appointment to Her Majesty The Queen, Conservation

by Design’s passion is conserving through its reputation of quality and expertise which has been built on an enthusiasm to understand and satisfy the needs of a wide variety of clients.

The company’s commitment to craftsmanship and tradition is matched by an advanced product development programme to ensure that it continues to lead the market through innovation.

Stuart Welch joined QEST’s growing band of skills advisors last year. He is a specialist in conservation materials and a watercolours artist, although the latter career has been suspended whilst he concentrated on establishing his companies. He started by supplying other artists with acid free paper and specialist materials and gradually moved into conservation. In 1992 the focus shifted entirely to conservation when he established Conservation By Design. In 2007 Conservation

Stuart devised a “squelch drying” technique together with a collaborator, Nicholas Hadgraft, when faced with a flood in the Fitzwilliam Museum. This method was so effective that HRH The Prince of Wales urged the British Council to employ the technique to save the National Library devastated by the floods in Prague. When Nicholas died tragically in 2004, Stuart set up an international memorial scholarship in his name, to be awarded to skilled bookbinders who want to learn and practice unique bookbinding techniques.

Stuart readily admits that he enjoys developing the products and seeing how they are used and is inspired by the dedication of those who work in conservation. “These specialists are not motivated by money but by a desire to preserve interesting things; whether it is physical items or the words and information contained on paper,” said Stuart. www.conservation-by-design.co.uk

Special Thanks From QEST Special thanks from QEST to those whose creative efforts continue to raise funds for new craft scholarships including Moet & Chandon, Bendicks and the Worshipful Company of Pewterers.

Issue 27, Spring 2013 of the QEST magazine illustrated the stunning architectural floor clock crafted by Zone Creations. QEST is appreciative of the donations from the sale of these limited edition timepieces.

The Scotch Whisky Distillers kindly donated a rare edition of the Diamond Jubilee Blended Scotch Whisky by John Walker & Sons to QEST. David Gates, Global Head of Premium Core Spirits at Diageo, officially handed over the stunning decanter and cabinet made in collaboration with a number of Royal Warrant Holders and QEST scholars including QEST trustee, Neil Stevenson, who was also in attendance. A limited edition of sixty crystal decanters were made and all profits were donated to the charity.

David Gates presents to Nick Farrow

QEST

Information

Wow what a year 2013 was!

We celebrated the sixtieth anniversary of Her Majesty The Queen’s Coronation with a unique festival in which QEST completed the famous Summer House project, we funded a record number of scholars and we helped our alumni with educational seminars, press articles and exhibitions.

This work and more will continue in 2014. In January we will be launching an Apprenticeship Scheme with an initial four apprentices working with small companies, training with master craftsmen to become skilled and therefore gain employment. QEST, having supported vocational training for some time, are now segmenting this into ‘QEST Apprentices’, which will attract new revenue streams, allowing us to place more apprentices and help more small companies.

Filming scholar Ben Short

In order to cope with the expanded workload and to enable us to carry out our new initiatives I am pleased to introduce Lyanne Mansfield who has joined us from a major charity. She brings with her a wealth of experience in all fields and heads up QEST. Finally, before, during and after the Coronation Festival scholars were filmed at work, thus producing a documentary of the fantastic project. The footage is fab and is now forming the basis of a QEST film. Once completed we’ll let you have the link.

Thanks to you all and I look forward to catching up during this year.

Nick Farrow Chairman of QEST

Nick Farrow and Lyanne Mansfield

QEST CRAFT AWARDS Do you know someone who could benefit from QEST? The Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust (QEST) is the Royal Warrant Holders Association’s charity, created to fund the education of talented craftsmen and women through traditional college courses, apprenticeships or one-to-one with master craftsmen. Today, QEST has awarded more than £2.2 million to 319 gifted individuals aged between 17 and 50+ and it is recognised as having made a major contribution to

ensuring the continuation of the pool of talent in the UK and reflects the excellence of British craftsmanship, as symbolised by the Royal Warrant of Appointment.

Scholarships from £1,000 up to £18,000 are awarded twice a year.

To find out more and apply online, visit QEST at: www.qest.org.uk

Who’s who at Qest Chairman & Trustee Nick Farrow Farrows Ltd. Trustees Penny Bendall Bendall Ceramic Conservation

Neil Stevenson NEJ Stevenson

QEST Development Officer Julia Robinson

Honorary Treasurer & Trustee Alec McQuin Rokill Ltd.

Applications Administrator Jodie Daniel

Nick Crean Prestat

President RWHA Jenifer Emery Edward Goodyear Ltd.

Mark Henderson Gieves & Hawkes Ltd.

Secretary RWHA Richard Peck

Steve Macleod Metro Imaging Ltd. Fiona Rae Goldsmith and Enameller

QEST Executive Director Lyanne Mansfield

Magazine Editor Shelley-Anne Claircourt

Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust 1 Buckingham Place London SW1E 6HR General enquiries Tel 020 7828 2268 Email info@qest.org.uk Media enquiries Shelley-Anne Claircourt Tel 020 7854 1827 Email info@pressoffice.co.uk www.qest.org.uk Follow us on twitter @QESTcraft QEST Scholars join us at LinkedIn/QEST Registered Charity No. 1152032 Front Cover Image - Gayle Cooper Designed and Printed by www.farrows.co.uk

Issue 29 Spring 2014 the queen elizabeth scHolarship trust MAGAZINE

In this issue

Introducing 24 New Scholars including an Iconographer, Stonemason & Stained Glass Conservator

QEST

New Scholars MARK ANGELO-GIZZI Leather Worker QEST Leathersellers’ Company Scholar

Largely self-taught, Mark developed his skills from a short leatherwork course at Capel Manor College in 2009. He produces a range of handmade satchels and bags. He will use his QEST scholarship to attend three short courses: Leather Covered Trunks with McGregor & Michael in the Cotswolds, a one-to-one with Peter Wall on Associated Skills, Attaché Cases and Cartridge Bags at the Saddlery Training Centre. These will improve his hand stitching and enable him to diversify to include bespoke cases and luggage for classic car owners and a range of equipment and accessories for field sports enthusiasts. www.gizzi-leather.com

JULIET BAILEY Woven Textile Designer & Maker QEST Scholar

Juliet Bailey co-founded Dash and Miller Ltd. in 2009. She is a hand-woven designer contributing to both a seasonal portfolio of trend-led, hand-woven designs that are supplied with technical details and copyright to all areas of the fashion and interior industries and, a seasonal collection of UK produced, ready to wear, luxury womenswear fabrics. Juliet is determined to improve her understanding between traditional techniques and modern methods of textile production through an extensive research and hands-on learning project and will share her experiences with the students of Central Saint Martins and Brighton Universities, amongst others.

Her scholarship will be used to fund a series of visits to renowned UK manufacturing facilities that will include, intensive training in technical aspects of all areas of the UK textiles industry from fibre harvest, through to spinning, dyeing, weaving and finishing. www.dashandmiller.com

BENJAMIN ARNOLD Artist QEST HISCOX Scholar

Benjamin graduated from Newcastle College of Art & Design and completed a BA Drawing at the Camberwell College of Arts, before embarking upon a career as a self-taught painter. After discovering the Florence Academy of Art (FAA) through fellow QEST Scholar, Rupert Alexander’s work, he enrolled on a short summer programme. He was inspired to undertake the full course which he started in October 2011, part funding his training by working as both studio assistant and studio cleaner. Now with QEST’s support, he will complete his third and final year.

The FAA is renowned for its instruction in the time-honoured practices of painting ‘from life’, built upon a foundation of first understanding the principles of drawing, training the artist’s eye, hand and judgement. In this, Benjamin’s final year, emphasis will be placed upon Portraiture, The Figure and StillLife, with one of the primary objectives being developing a more sophisticated understanding of mixing colour. The ‘sight-size’ method taught at the school is what distinguishes it from other institutions and this method was practiced by artists such as Titian and Rembrandt to Whistler and Sargent.

Issue 29 Spring 2014

CLARE BARNETT Master Saddler QEST Saddlers’ Company Scholar

Clare has developed from a talented leatherworker to a Master Saddler and qualified saddle fitter.

Since she established her own business ten years ago, her husband has qualified as a Master Saddler and their daughter has recently joined them as an apprentice, ensuring the next generation will benefit from Clare’s knowledge.

While attending a side saddle refurbishment course, her passion for traditional skills and history of the subject was unleashed. A side saddle rider herself, Clare will use her QEST scholarship to fund the Side Saddle Manufacture course at the Salisbury Saddlery Training Centre. This elegant style of riding is enjoying a resurgence with a growing demand for new saddles. Unfortunately there are few makers that remain with this skill and, with stocks of old name side saddles dwindling, (many of which are over a hundred years old and can only be refurbished a finite number of times) it is essential to be able to use modern technology in the traditional construction method of new side saddles.

RUTH EMILY DAVEY Cordwainer QEST Leathersellers’ Company Scholar

Ruth Emily Davey is a bespoke shoemaker with a difference. After completing Art College she secured an apprenticeship with Alan James Raddon, a shoemaker with a deep rooted philosophy from his reflexology training and the belief of strengthening and healing feet through wearing comfortable and well-fitting footwear. Ruth Emily practices his philosophy and will extend it by incorporating a range of boots.

Ruth Emily, from Ceredigion in Wales, won the Balvenie Young Master of Craft Award in 2011 and was awarded her own studio by Aberystwyth Arts Centre in August 2012. She is now based at her home workshop in Machynlleth, Powys.

With her award, Ruth Emily will complete a reflexology course and gain further understanding of the anatomy and structure of the foot, with the aim to innovate new designs following traditional methods, with the purpose of making footwear that provides unique health benefits. In addition, she will attend a boot design course at the London College of Fashion to perfect her design and extend her range into specific areas such as the equestrian market. She will also use the award to research fabric by investigating cloth and traditional weaving. www.ruthemilydavey.co.uk

FRANKI BREWER Hand-Weaver QEST Scholar

Franki Brewer is a hand-weaver and co-founder of Dash and Miller Ltd., a design studio producing quality hand-woven designs for the textiles industry. The company’s core business remains the inception and development of inspirational hand-woven samples for national and international clients in both the fashion and interior sectors.

Franki will use her scholarship to fund a series of day visits and intensive one-to-one training sessions to explore the processes and skills involved in industrial and historic fabric production in the UK. She hopes to acquire extensive knowledge and skills in the industrial processes of fibre harvest, spinning, dyeing, weaving and finishing. The project will culminate with a series of professional practice lectures on translating hand-woven design for industry, to consolidate and disseminate this knowledge. www.dashandmiller.com

QEST

New Scholars

GAYLE COOPER Model Maker & Prosthetics, Creature Effects Technician QEST Scholar

Gayle has been working in special effects for the film/television and model making industry since she left university in 2008. Her speciality skills include prosthetic make up, creature creation and special effects. Her work often includes mould making and casting in a range of materials including silicone and fibreglass. Through practice, she has learnt some basic hair skills including knotting and laying.

The QEST scholarship will fund her place at the UK Wig School to attend the Lace Wig and Hair Replacement Course where she will gain knowledge of ‘Foundation Fabrication,’ ‘Hair Selection and Preparation’ and ‘Measuring and Fitting’. These new skills will not only benefit her current career, but enable her to set up her own business making wigs for those requiring hair-replacement, due to medical conditions.

MARTIN EARLE Iconographer QEST Radcliffe Scholar

Martin sought a scholarship to develop his practice as an iconographer through a two year apprenticeship with Aidan Hart. Aidan is a Master Craftsman who has been carving and painting icons in the Byzantine and Russian tradition for 25 years and is renowned as the West’s foremost ‘liturgical artist’.

Martin studied animation at the Royal College of Art and later, relief iconography in the studio of Sasha Aleksejevas. He brings to his apprenticeship a passion and talent for making, especially by hand, and a deep love and knowledge of the iconography of different eras and cultures.

Since December 2012, Martin has been assisting Aidan on major carving and mosaic commissions for churches in Spain, Wales and the USA. The QEST scholarship will support him while he begins to learn the complex art of painting egg tempera panel icons and large scale wall paintings under his mentor’s close guidance. In recent years there has been an increased demand for specialist ‘liturgical artists’ able to create icons and church furnishings in a variety of media. This apprenticeship will help him to join the handful of such craftspeople that are emerging in this country.

EMILY GOODAKER Jewellery Designer & Maker Weston Scholar

Emily has an exquisite way of showing off her diverse skills in producing jewellery design in a very modern and imaginative style. Her work aims to bring new light to jewellery when it is not being worn, composing sculptural objects with the jewellery elements that add a playfulness to the display of her work entitled Life Outside the Jewellery Box. She intends to use the dialogue between historical information and objects through her MA in Goldsmithing, Silversmithing, Metalwork and Jewellery at the Royal College of Art.

Issue 29 Spring 2014

CHARLOTTE HETHERIDGE Textile Designer & Maker Weston Scholar

Charlotte is an accomplished screen printer, dyer and woven textile specialist. She has recognised that digital printing facilities have ousted hand processed methods. She is determined to keep traditional skills alive and to make them relevant by modernising through innovation. In the year prior to attending RCA, she acquired extensive knowledge of printing and manufacturing within the fashion industry, showing her versatility as a designer by working within a diverse range of organisations, including Zandra Rhodes, H&M and Fusion.

Using her QEST scholarship, Charlotte will complete an MA in Printed Textile Design at the Royal College of Art and plans to showcase a collection of garments that boast a combination of pioneering, woven and hand screenprinting techniques. www.charliehetheridge.com

LAURA JEARY Stonemason Weston Scholar

Last year Laura changed the emphasis of her career to channel her increasing interest in heritage skills and craftsmanship. She moved from architecture and undertook a part-time diploma in stone masonry at York College.

After an intense year of total immersion within the craft, Laura has accepted a three year stone masonry apprenticeship at the York Minster stone yard. With the support of her QEST scholarship, Laura started her apprenticeship in August 2013, and is relishing the opportunity to work and learn in this focused and well-respected workshop. During the apprenticeship Laura will be learning banker masonry, setting out, fixing, conservation and carving. The position also includes a two week placement at another Cathedral, a City & Guilds Level 3 in Stone Masonry at York College and an optional Level 4 & 5 Cathedral’s Fellowship Fund Foundation Degree through the University of Gloucester.

Laura is passionate about the promotion of traditional crafts across the board. She intends to investigate other crafts and conservation skills and to continue to make strong contacts with established craftsmen and women from the UK and beyond.

AALIA KAMAL Easel Paintings Conservator QEST J. Paul Getty Jr Charitable Trust Scholar

After seven years undertaking public policy research for central government Aalia was already well versed in research skills and methodology when she embarked upon a new career and undertook a postgraduate diploma at the Hamilton Kerr Institute. Aalia has gained valuable experience of working in situ at the Clothworkers’ Company in the City of London. Her third year Diploma project on Vanessa Bell’s painting technique will inform the practical conservation treatment of Bloomsbury School paintings.

The QEST award will enable Aalia to undertake a 12-month V&A internship in paintings conservation. The Museum’s painting section is one of nine conservation areas including science, frames and paper, in which she will learn new skills through experts from each of these fields.

Few studios have this depth of expertise and having a unique opportunity for a one-to-one apprenticeship highlights her exemplary skills in conservation.

QEST

New Scholars TARA OSBOROUGH Textile Designer & Maker QEST Bendicks Scholar

Tara is passionate about British wool and the potential that exists by using locally produced resources to promote British suppliers and help to reinvigorate the sheep farming industry in this country. The award will enable Tara to study a Masters in Textiles at the University for the Creative Arts in Farnham, Surrey, where she studied for a BA Hons in Textiles for Fashion and Interiors. Her research during her degree has led her to focus on British wool and specialist dyeing techniques to create beautiful woven textiles. She has explored dyeing extensively and has created new ways of dyeing warps prior to weaving. The colour mixing is very evocative of the Irish landscapes, from which she takes inspiration.

ALEXANDRA PENGELLY Knitwear & Textile Designer QEST Iliffe Family Charitable Trust Scholar

Alexandra has completed the Fashion Knitwear BA course at Winchester School of Art and was a winner of the Rowan Knit Competition. Amongst other awards she has received the WSA Graduate Fashion and Textile Award.

Tara gained commercial experience as a six month intern with Jude Cassidy, an Irish hand weaver with an international reputation and now undertakes freelance commissions alongside her studies. She won the New Designers Sanderson Award in July 2013 and alongside a cash prize, she received a four week paid internship with Royal Warrant holders William Sanderson & Son. www.taraosborough.co.uk

Alex will attend the Knitwear Textiles MA course at the Royal College of Art. She will research hand manipulation and integral structure to better understand how traditional stitches from hand knitting can be developed through a range of methods in order to form dynamically different knitted structures. Studying at the RCA will enable her to research and present academic study into structural knitting. Using Shima Seiki and Morat machinery, she will explore how the skill and unique heritage associated with the craftsmanship of hand knitting can be adapted and interpreted through alternative methods. “It is my hope that the research and textiles I develop during this course of study could be used to challenge the preconceived notions of knitting as a domestic practice,� explained Alex. www.alexpengellyknit.co.uk

CHRISTOPHER MADLIN Stained Glass Designer & Maker QEST Scholar

Since 1987 Christopher has been working with glass as a craftsman, designer, fabricator and installer of stained & decorative glass. He gained additional experience in aspects of conservation glazing whilst working and training with Goddard & Gibbs Studios Ltd. and Chapel Studio Ltd. He is currently with Philip Bradbury Glass overseeing design, production, repair and restoration of all stained glass work and is involved with the design and production of decorative etched glass work.

The scholarship will enable Chris to attend two specialist courses at Swansea Metropolitan University: the Glass Painting Workshop and the Silver Stain & Enamel Workshop.

Issue 29 Spring 2014

JACK ROW Silversmith & Jeweller QEST Scholar

Jack Row established his own eponymous brand in 2011 with the launch of his debut collection at Harrods. He designs and creates elegant writing instruments and accessories in silver, gold and platinum, frequently incorporating precious gemstones. Jack draws inspiration from engineering, iconic architecture and the intricate detailing of Islamic art.

The QEST scholarship will enable Jack to learn and develop the traditional art of hand engraving from one of the UK’s leading craftsmen, with an emphasis on the use of new technologies, specifically compressed-air engraving tools and optical equipment. www.jackrow.com New Scholar Front Cover Image - Ring by Jack Row

BENJAMIN POINTER Book & Paper Conservator QEST Clothworkers’ Company Scholar

The QEST scholarship will ensure that Benjamin Pointer is able to complete a Postgraduate Diploma in the Conservation of Books and Library Materials at West Dean College. This course is recognised as being especially focused with time dedicated to practical conservation treatments, so that students are as fully prepared as possible to enter conservation upon completion of the course.

Benjamin’s specific interests are in illuminated manuscripts and historical book structures. He has ambitions to work with collections such as those at the Bodleian, the British Library and Trinity College Dublin. Benjamin has also developed an interest in hand bookbinding and hopes to further cultivate his skills in the craft.

JENNIFER PRICE Artist & Printmaker Weston Scholar

Jennifer’s journey as an artist and printmaker has been more than just aesthetics; through her work she raises awareness of mental illness, the prejudices and the challenges that surround the topic. She uses the traditional skills of printmaking in an unconventional manner, by recycling discarded objects and scrap fabric to create prints. The object is inked up and wrapped in fabric providing a direct print of the item. The process is very much a metaphor for illnesses such as personality disorders and psychosis. Jennifer utilises the style of a psychiatric ink-blot, as her work encourages a viewer to look at artwork and interpret it however they see fit.

She has worked as an Artist in Residence at the University of North Carolina, Charlotte, USA; the Brewery Arts Centre, Kendal; and the Aberystwyth Arts Centre. On each occasion, she held lectures, worked with volunteers and produced large format prints for exhibition. The QEST scholarship will give Jennifer the freedom to explore the bare bones of printmaking and her practice, as well as the time to refine and develop her work whilst she completes her MA in Printmaking at the Royal College of Art. www.jenniferpriceart.com

QEST

New Scholars KIRSTEN WALSH Wood & Stone Conservator Qest Tallow Chandlers’ Scholar

Kirsten completed a BA in Fine Art in 1993, worked as a scenic artist at the National Theatre and later in the West End and the film industry. Assignments frequently included reproducing historical paintings and finishes. As she researched original techniques and began to understand how methods were dictated by technologies, Kirsten developed an interest in conservation that continued with carved and painted objects as she recognised a necessity for a more scientific and professional approach to their care. She has a particular passion for British medieval painting on stone and wood.

Kirsten will use her scholarship to complete her BA course in Conservation Studies at the City & Guilds of London Art School.

TOM VOWDEN Stained Glass Conservator QEST Eranda Scholar

Tom Vowden studied archaeology at the University of Manchester and is currently a Heritage Lottery Funded Intern at The York Glaziers’ Trust supporting the conservation of the Great East Window of York Minister. The QEST scholarship will enable him to attend the MA in Stained Glass Conservation and Heritage Management at the University of York. This educational award will ensure that Tom advances the skills currently learnt and expands his knowledge of stained glass conservation, thus progressing his career in a profession dealing with fragile historic material.

BEN SHORT Charcoal Burner & Coppice Woodsman QEST Ernest Cook Trust Scholar

In 2008, Ben felt his life needed a change from working within the London advertising agency M & C Saatchi. A stint as an assistant forester with the National Trust in Cambridgeshire was followed by a year helping to set up an agro-forestry project on the Dorset/Devon border.

Going alone in 2012, Ben started his own charcoal burning business; harvesting left-over thinning’s which a previous forestry contractor had neglected to clear in a wood close to his home. He now supplies several local shops with his English hardwood charcoal including River Cottage.

A QEST scholarship will allow Ben to work full-time in the woods of a 2000 acre estate in West Dorset, honing his skills in charcoal burning and gaining a fuller understanding of coppice restoration, through the guidance of an experienced woodsman.

Issue 29 Spring 2014

KATE WALLWORK Stonemason Weston Scholar

Such is Kate Wallwork’s passion for her craft that over the last five years she has spent all her spare time improving her skills. Since 2008 she has been working for the French organisation, REMPART, as a supervisor on heritage missions run over the summer months, leading volunteers in conservation work. In her History BA she specialised in architectural history and it was natural that she would find her calling in the stone craft. She has completed a one year’s intensive training in stonemasonry at the Building Crafts College in London and has taken a variety of voluntary placements, including at Gloucester Cathedral and in a stone carver’s workshop.

Her QEST scholarship is essential to fund the Diploma in Historic Carving at the City & Guilds of London Art School, where she will build on her masonry experience. This course will allow her to develop artistically, moving on from working stone into complex architectural shapes, to producing architectural ornamentation and to fulfil her ambition to become a professional stone carver.

THOMAS SKEENS Potter & Ceramicist QEST Rumi Foundation Scholar

OLUWASEYI SOSANYA Wood Worker & Design Engineer QEST Scholar

Oluwaseyi is accomplished in woodworking and joinery techniques among other craft and design skills. He has focused on fusing sustainable design practice with beautiful aesthetics to bring art to every day experiences.

He has gained considerable knowledge working internationally with individuals and companies commissioned to resolve emerging problems as quickly as our new age creates them.

The photograph illustrates an iPhone cover Oluwaseyi made by working bamboo through several manufacturing processes. He has designed, then applied traditional wood working skills to produce a pair of his signature Nobu Chairs from a standard sheet of 4’x 8’ Baltic Birch plywood and thus realised his desire to create an affordable flat pack chair for the restaurant market.

The scholarship will enable Oluwaseyi to complete his MA in Innovation Design Engineering, a joint programme between the Royal College of Art and the Imperial College, London. Oluwaseyi believes that the past can often help shape the future. His belief in a heterogeneous mixture of traditional craft and cutting-edge manufacturing technologies of today can help designers, artists and engineers make sustainable and fantastic works. www.sosafresh.com

Tom is a potter with a reputation for technical expertise. He learned his trade initially through a vocational course run by the Crafts Council in rural Ireland, which took a traditional throwing based approach to clay. The course led to a series of jobs in a number of thriving potteries, making flowerpots in Bristol, tableware in Hong Kong and later assisting international ceramic artists in London. Working for a range of makers has expanded Tom’s knowledge of clay working techniques from both ancient and contemporary standpoints, engrained the fluency of his pottery making skills and offered him diverse perspectives on the medium of ceramics.

Tom has demonstrated his passion for clay and it is in order to further explore this medium that he has chosen to study at the Royal College of Art. Keeping the inherent beauty of clay, the value of hand-making and, issues of class, identity and history in sharp focus, Tom seeks to create relevant and beautiful contemporary ceramic art at the college. What remains to be unearthed is how exactly he will express his own personal voice in clay as he moves into producing work that is fully his own for the first time since graduation.

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