Machero Africa Traveller

T R AV E L

B U S I N E S S

A F R I C A

T R AV E L L E R

MACHER0 APRIL - JUNE 2013

C U LT U R E

HIMBA

Embracing the future while clinging to the past NAVIGATING THE NYANZA Rupi Mangat f loats her way around the great lake side

Whats private equity?

BIRDS OF A FEATHER

C. Andre Haukaas gives you the low down and what it means for Africa

Allan Massawa picks up a pair binoculars and sets his sights on the birds at Nairobi National pack

• Euro Zone €4.60 • USA $6.00 • UK £3.70 • Canada $5.90 • Norway NOK 34.00 • UAE Dh 22 • South Africa R 50 • Angola AOA 570 • Algerian DA 475 • Egypt E£ 36 • Tunisia Dinar 9.50 • Ethiopia R 110 • Gambia Da 195 • Ghana GH¢ 115,000 • Qatar QR 21.70 • Rwanda RWF 3,600 • Saudi Arabia RLS 22.50 • Tanzania TShs 9,300 • Uganda UShs 15,000 • Kenya KShs 500 • Nigeria N 940 • Morocco Dh 51 • Malaysia RM 18 • Mauritius MR 175

Ideal for visitors to Kenya who don’t have time for an excursion to one of the major game parks, the Ole-Sereni allows guests to view the exotic wildlife from the comfort of its restaurants, bars, swimming pool and selected guest rooms.

Each of the 124 exquisitely decorated and individually air conditioned rooms is equipped with safe, minibar, tea/coffee making facilities, hairdryer, satellite TV, internet and telephone.

For that self-indulgent feeling, guests can opt to stay in one of two executive suites on the veranda facing the park and overlooking the Waterhole.

SENSATIONAL The hotel has a selection of bars and restaurants, providing guests with a range of dining options.

The main dining venue is The Big Five Restaurant on the first floor,

which has five open-show kitchens cooking Japanese, Italian, Indian, Chinese and Grilled Cuisines dishes. The restaurant has a bar of its own, set on a 300 ft long veranda overlooking the Waterhole. Other dining options are the Eagles Grill Room, on the fourth floor, with panoramic views; the Ngong Pool Bar, for healthy snacks and the waterhole.

As a popular conference venue, the Ole-Sereni offers a choice of well equipped meeting rooms of various sizes with state of the art technology and video conferencing facilities. The Largest in size is the Pride Conference Center, with a capacity of up to 500 delegates, which is a popular venue for major international events.

RECREATIONAL The health club and swimming pool allow guests to take a break from the bustle of daily life.

The modern fitness center occupies three floors and includes a large fully equipped gym, an aerobics room, massage center, sauna and steam room.

MACHERO AFRICA TRAVELLER

MACHERO AFRICA TRAVELLER

Welcome to the Issue

We welcome you to our third issue of Machero, “the future” in Swahili. The news headlines have not changed much in the last few years: the American economic outlook is uncertain, Europe still has a debt crisis and Emerging Asia is showing signs of stress. However, the first quarter of 2013 did bring notable developments.

The BRIC’s approval of a $100bn currency fund was an interesting step and no doubt a boost to China’s interests in Africa. Kenya finished a peaceful election, which drew international attention, but perhaps not as much intrigue as did the new government’s political games with East and West.

Africa’s significance in geopolitical affairs has been growing for some time and it may soon be stealing more of the spotlight. In this edition of Machero, we pause for insight into Kenya, still the hub of East Africa, a region that in recent years, has made significant discoveries of oil, gas and rare earth minerals and is moving closer toward a common market with nearly 150 million people.

As investors work harder for returns in Asia, private equity investors will certainly be making more trips to East Africa. We have information you should know about private equity and why more investment may be heading to East Africa.

The PE market in Africa is still young. So while it may be too early for corporate raiders, angels will need a place to sleep. We’ll share with you some of the luxurious gems of African hospitality as you explore the region.

We move from our last issue’s exploration of Lake Victoria in Tanzania to the inland surroundings near the Lake’s shores in Kenya, rich in history going back to Arab traders of the 13th century. We travel further back in time and across the continent to Timbuktu in West Africa for a fascinating visit to pre-colonial Mali, Africa’s Lost Mecca.

Prepare for a journey in print. We sincerely hope you enjoy this edition of Machero magazine.

- C. Andre Haukaas Group editorial Director Machero Travel

Copyright 2013 Machero Africa Traveller. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form or stored on a retrieval system without the prior permission of the publisher. While every effort is made to ensure that the contents of Machero Africa Traveller Magazine are accurate at the time of going to press, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors that may appear, or for any consequence of using the information contained herein.

April - June 2013

CONTENTS

TRAVEL BRIEFS 07 ACCESS We round up the latest travel news to Put you in-the-know for 2013.

14 WELCOME Your 5 minute briefing on Cape Town.

17 Where to stay Pick between classic style digs and boutique design in Mozambique.

33 WHAT IN AFRICA Upcoming events about to grace the continent of Africa.

34 DISCOVER We are on the hunt for Africas Luxury locations with Bito Ndemo.

36 PICTURE THIS Our line up of three sensational snapshots from around Africa.

44 The hot list From the wind-tickled shores of the Seychelles to the haunting, seal-dappled coast of Namibia Das Naji explores Africa’s famed beaches 68 VISIT: mauritius Th best African destination you know almost nothing about.

FEATURES 18 Economic Report A. Fredrick lays out Kenya’s economic foundation.

20 What is private equity?

C. Andre Haukaas gives you the low down and what it means for Africa.

24 navigating the nyanza Rupi Mangat floats her way around the great lake side.

60 Africa’s Lost mecca David Tole finds his way around Timbuktu’s ancient monuments.

66 Birds of a feather Allan Massawa picks up a pair binoculars and sets his sights on the birds at Nairobi National pack.

75 A window to the past Das Naji opens the window to Himbas past, present and future.

On the cover: Himba woman In the Kaokoland, Namibia.

Photo/AFP

Production Manager: Andrew Olembo

Sales & Advertising

PUBLISHING DIRECTOR: Das Naji

CONTRIBUTORS

ONLINE PUBLISHING Dennis Nyariki EDITORIAL DIRECTOR C. Andre Haukaas

Brian Noah

Amarron Fredrick Rupi Mangat Allan Massawa David Tole Bito Ndemo

Produced by: Brand Effects E.A. Ltd. www.brandeffectsea.com

April - June 2013 Machero Africa Traveller

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ACCESS | NEWS

ACCESS

B E I N the k n o w, D I S C O V E R , S T AY I N F O R M E D

Developers Eko Atlantic City, world’s biggest civil engineering project Construction work on Eko Atlantic City started in February after president Goodluck Jonathan flagged off the project.

Built on land reclaimed from the Atlantic Ocean, the city plans, amongst other things, to target 400,000 residents and 250,000 commuters flowing daily to and from the island, return the coast to its previous position in the 1950s and 1960s, and reverse the damage wrought by erosion, over the years. The original idea for the Atlantic City arose when the Lagos State government expressed a need for a permanent solution to the coastal erosion plaguing the Bar Beach in Victoria Island, as well as a safeguard for Victoria Island from the threat of flooding. Thus, between 2003 and 2005, the developers and city planners of the Eko Atlantic City – South Energyx Nigeria Limited – engaged in a feasibility study with international experts to look for a ‘once and for all’ solution for the problem. It is proposed that the new city, a 10square kilometre development, will have water-front area, tree-lined streets, and efficient transport system and mixed-use plots that will combine residential areas with leisure facilities, offices and shops.

The Eko Atlantic City is important for many reasons.

Not only will it build on Lagos’ reputation as the “land of aquatic splendour”, it will serve as a tourist attraction. It is also considered that the new city will help to decongest areas of Lagos, the state constantly having to struggle with the toll of rapid development and economic growth. The job

opportunities and economic prospects the project provides are also enormous – thousands of people will participate in the construction of the city, and it is only expected that the financial return will then be spent in Lagos.

The Eko Atlantic City will also establish Lagos as a modern city firmly on the world map. This is particularly important when we consider that Lagos is one of the fastest growing cities in the world – indeed, many analysts have pointed to Lagos being the second fastest growing city in Africa, and the seventh fastest in the world. With all this growth, however, has not come a benefitting recognition, as the state’s congestion, unbalanced population explosion and lack of commensurate, critical infrastructure are regularly cited as drawbacks to achieving the “modern city” status.

More than anything, however, is what the Eko Atlantic City symbolizes. It embodies the determination and the resilience of the Nigerian spirit. It also represents the willingness and ability to diversify from oil as the primary source of wealth for Nigeria’s economy.

The Eko Atlantic City reflects what the country is truly capable of given the right blend of visionary leadership and an adequate deployment of resources. The Eko Atlantic City is a true beacon of what the world should expect from Nigeria, and indeed the African continent in the near future – progress and development - Erejuwa Gbadebo April - June 2013 Machero Africa Traveller

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The City Under the Sun! Enjoy the sights and sounds, pick from numerous safaris, immerse yourself in the culture, go shopping and be entertained. Nairobi is a combination of cosmopolitan modernity and beautiful natural environs making it the perfect home, business and holiday destination.

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EXPLORE

South Africa

Singita gets facelift

MALAWI IS CALLING

Singita Blazes New Trail for Innovative Digital Strategy with Website Launch Cape Town, South Africa – 16 April 2013 – Celebrating 20 years as Africa’s leading luxury safari brand and conservation company, Singita is pleased to announce the launch of their new website. Sporting a brand new look and feel, enhanced function, and rich content, Singita is proudly embracing the demands of the next generation, tech-savvy traveller.

A culmination of an innovative and creative digital strategy developed over the past two years, the website marks a new era for Singita’s online presence. Crafted by Wallop, Vancouver-based specialists in luxury hotel website design, the site will act as a hub for the company’s room availability and spectacular visual content. The progressive design and choice of a WordPress platform is the result of extensive research of both global trends in hotel and travel design and a thorough surveying of Singita’s customer base. Created with tablets and mobile phones in mind, using responsive design, the site will adjust seamlessly to any screen or device. This enhanced version of the website will further augment the modern traveller’s mobile online experience with Singita.

The website promises to display unrivalled content, including extensive video and photography of the Singita’s lodge and camp experience, wildlife and safari. The conservation and community aspects so integral to the Singita experience will be prominently featured, including media produced by guides, guests, and staff. Integration across digital platforms is paramount, and the site will assimilate the

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Machero Africa Traveller

brand’s various social media platforms (YouTube, Pinterest, Twitter, Facebook) with blog entries, and e-news campaigns to provide unparalleled, up to the minute wildlife reports and camp updates.

In the coming months, Singita plans to expand on this new digital strategy, with the addition of a password protected micro-site to serve travel partners with updated and downloadable rates, fact sheets, videos and more.

Please visit Singita’s new website at: www. singita.com.

ABOUT SINGITA In an age where the accelerating destruction of pristine wilderness is beyond repair, Singita is making a profound difference in many parts of Africa. Orchestrating an interdependent relationship between communities, wildlife and tourism that ensures true sustainability, Singita is blazing a trail which is seldom achieved on this scale anywhere else on the continent.

Focused on eco-conscious hospitality, sustainable conservation and evolving local communities, Singita’s vision is to share a unique part of the world while respecting the natural environment and challenging today’s notion of luxury. Recognized internationally for providing the best safari experience in Africa, Singita includes 12 iconic, low-impact, luxury lodges and camps in five African destinations: Kruger National Park and Sabi Sand in South Africa, Grumeti Reserves and Lamai in Tanzania and Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve in Zimbabwe.

Malawi’s lakes, mountains, and wilderness have been drawing an increasing number of visitors since 1993, when President Hastings Kamuzu Banda’s three decades of autocratic rule finally ended. The country’s five national parks and four wildlife reserves are home to a wealth of big game, and Malawi has wisely begun promoting itself as an affordable alternative to safari destinations such as Botswana, Kenya, and Tanzania. Unlike countries with more established safari operations, Malawi’s protected areas are easily and inexpensively accessed by independent travellers and are conspicuously devoid of touristladen Land Rovers.

Malawi is wedged between Mozambique and Zambia. Within its narrow boundaries lie amazingly varied landscapes, from a massive lake edged by palm trees and mountains to a pine-forested plateau stitched with streams and hiking trails. Although there’s no shortage of accommodations, luxury options are few. Simply furnished hotels and guesthouses are the norm.

The centerpiece of the country is 360-mile-long Lake Malawi, which covers 20 percent of the nation. Typically calm and crystal-clear, it supports some 1,000 species of fish and is one of the world’s best freshwater diving locations. (Beware of areas affected by the bilharzia parasite.) Some of the nicest accommodations on the lake are on the island sanctuaries of Mumbo and Domwe. Likoma Island, accessible by public ferry just once a week (or by chartered boat or plane), is well worth a visit to see Chipyela, a quaint town with cobbled roads and a stone church, built

by Anglican missionaries in 1906, that is nearly as large as Westminster Cathedral. Thirty miles south of the lake, Liwonde National Park teems with hippos, crocodiles, and elephants. In the north, the hills of Nyika National Park attract hikers; horseback safaris are also popular. Other prime trekking areas are the misty slopes of 10,000-foot Mount Mulanje and the pine forests of the Zomba Plateau.

The Zomba Forest Lodge, a tranquil homestead on the Zomba Plateau, offers perhaps the best value for the money. It has five simple but comfortable rooms, and there are few better places to watch the blood red sunsets than from its front lawn (265-9200369; z.f.lodge@mw.celtelplus.com; doubles, $60, including dinner).

HOT OFFERs

HONEY MOONERS DELIGHT This offer – Honeymoon in Africa – brought to you by Africa Journey’s Escapes

Valid from 8th January 2013 to 19th December 2013 (All Offers Not Valid over Easter, July & August and Cannot Be Combined With Each Other)

Early Bird Discount Get 10% discount on bookings made 6 months in advance.

Pay Less Get More!

Stay 4 nights pay for 3 in a deluxe room Stay 7 nights, pay for 6, in all room types

No single room supplement (Valid from 8 Jan - 30 June 2013 & 1 Nov - 19 Dec. 2013)

Kids for free!

No charge for two children under the age of 12 years when sharing the room with two adults

email: safaris@africajourneys.co.ke

Honeymooners’ Offers Deluxe Stay 14 nights and bride get 7 nights free,any room type Supplement of EUROS 20 per day for halfboard for the last 7 nights for the bride (not valid during the month of July, August, Easter, Festive period. Subject to availability) One Complimentary Breakers lunch of a minimum stay of 7 nights stay.

Flowers on arrival, bottle of wine, complimentary gift, and other honeymoon treatment.

Honeymooners’ Offers Superior Stay 7 nights Pay for 5 or stay for 10 pay for8 nights, any room type 30 mins complimentary aromasoul massage One free half hour yoga session per person Sundowners served in your room One free henna tattoo per person 10% discount voucher on PADI Diving courses Flowers and Wine upon arrival Gift Complimentary Breakers lunch

PROFILE

A panoramic view of Cape Town

Welcome to Cape town Your 5 minute briefing on everything there is to know about THe most southern city in africa Cape Town is the second largest city in South Africa and other than being the capital of the Western Cape Province, it also acts as the legislative capital of South Africa). It is located in the south-west corner of the country near the Cape of Good Hope, and is the most southern city in Africa.

It is widely described as one of the world’s most beautiful cities. Nestling in a natural bowl between the vast Atlantic Ocean and the city’s picturesque Table Mountain, Cape Town is a combination of historical coastal charm and urbane sophistication.

Some of its more famous landmarks include Table Mountain, Robben Island (where former president Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for decades), Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak, Kirstenbosch Gardens, and the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront. Unique architecture, a charming inner city vibe and lively nightlife, coupled with 14

April - June 2013

a fascinating mix of Cape Malay, African and other cultures, add to the city’s unique, alluring appeal. Cape Town really is the quintessential melting pot: it is a city alive with creativity, colour, sounds and tastes.

While walking through the city’s streets and meeting its people, you will fall in love with its natural beauty, creative freedom and incredible spirit. Cape Town is a city where the unexpected is always just around the corner and the beautiful province of the Western Cape lies ready to be explored across the city border.

Located on the shore of Table Bay, Cape Town was originally developed by the Dutch East India Company as a victualling (supply) station for Dutch ships sailing to Eastern Africa, India, and the Far East. Jan van Riebeeck’s arrival on 6 April 1652 established the first permanent European settlement in South Africa. Cape Town

Machero Africa Traveller

quickly outgrew its original purpose as the first European outpost at the Castle of Good Hope, becoming the economic and cultural hub of the Cape Colony. Until the Witwatersrand Gold Rush and the development of Johannesburg, Cape Town was the largest city in South Africa. Today it is one of the most multicultural cities in the world, reflecting its role as a major destination for immigrants and expatriates to South Africa. As of 2011 the metropolitan region had an estimated population of 3.74 million.

The city was named the World Design Capital for 2014 by the International Council of Societies of Industrial Design.

A city as vibrant as Cape Town is bound to have a few interesting nicknames. “Tavern of the Seas” is one of these, as Cape Town was the relax-and-refresh hub where weary sailors would gather after being at

sea for months on end.

The Mother City is an affectionate nickname, which is widely known and used among locals and visitors to Cape Town alike. There are a number of suggested reasons why Cape Town is called the Mother City, and the most commonly offered explanation is as follows, in the words of Selwyn Davidowitz, an accredited Cape Town tour guide/operator: “In the 1930’s some unknown party wrote to the local cape Town newspaper claiming that Cape Town was the only city in South Africa that could justly call itself a metropolis.

The public took to this description and because the word metropolis is derived from the Greek derivation of meter or metros meaning mother and polis meaning city, the nickname of “Mother City” was born. Hence today we know our wonderful city as being the Mother City.”

Main Attractions Bo-Kaap Category: Points of Interest, Museums This neighbourhood, located on a hill south-west of downtown, is the area historically inhabited by mainly Muslim descendants of slaves from South-East Asia (hence an older term for the area - ‘Malay Quarter’. It’s a common location for film shoots, as there are some very colourful buildings, quaint streets, mosques, views over Cape Town and some great food sold on the side of the street. It’s well worth wandering around for an hour or so, as well as visiting the Bo-Kaap Museum (a view of a prosperous Muslim family from the 19th Century). Atlas Trading is and old fashioned shop where you can buy spices for any dish. Ask the proprietor to mix you the necessary spice for the meal you intend to make. Approximately 1km from the Bo-Kaap, is the Noon Gun which is fired every day at noon - from Monday to Saturday. You can go and view the short ceremony that takes place before the actual shooting as well as the shooting itself.

The Castle of Good Hope Category: Landmarks

District Six Museum, Category: Museum

Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens Category: Gardens

The Castle of Good Hope on Buitenkant Street is South Africa’s oldest surviving building. It was built between 1666 and 1679. It is popularly called ‘The Castle’ by locals. It has extensive displays of historical military paraphernalia, a history of the castle, an art collection and the William Fehr Collection (including old Cape Dutch furniture).You can eat and buy wine inside the Castle at the restaurant or café.

District Six is an area near downtown Cape Town which remained multiracial well into the 1960s against all attempts by the government to declare it a “white only” area. The residents were all evicted and the buildings destroyed. It remains uninhabited.

The museum provides information about the area, the eviction, and the people who used to live there.

View the hugely diverse and beautiful plants and flowers of the Cape flora in one of the most stunning botanical gardens in the world. Plants from all of the regions of South Africa are on display, including rare succulents from the Richtersveld, a giant baobab tree, and interesting medicinal plants. Numerous paths wander through the grounds situated on the back side of Table Mountain. At various times of the year concerts are performed in the open air amphitheatre. Art is frequently on display, including large Shona stone sculptures from Zimbabwe.

The gardens are also home to the National Biodiversity Institute.

During the summer months, sunset concerts feature excellent local and international music acts in diverse genres. Get there early to get a good spot on the grass amphitheatre. Bring a picnic, and enjoy the sounds of the Cape Philharmonic Orchestra, local rock bands, and popular artists like Freshlyground and Goldfish.

Victoria and Alfred Waterfront Category: Landmarks Robben Island Category: History Located just off the coast from Cape Town, this was the location used during the apartheid days to hold political prisoners, including Nelson Mandela and the late Walter Sisulu. The island itself is quite scenic, and African penguins can be spotted while on tour.

A huge shopping and entertainment area at the slopes of Table Mountain, next to the harbour. It is very popular with tourists, because of the high density of shops, restaurants and amusement possibilities, like the Aquarium or the Marine Museum. Harbour tours and trips to Robben Island start from here, as well as helicopter flights to the Cape Peninsula.

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WHERE TO STAY

SNAP YOUR IDEA WITH QuickMemo™

Mozambique

Everyone wants to scribble their instant idea and be able to share it in memo with friends quickly. LG Optimus L-series supports ones needs through QuickMemo™. LG QuickMemo™ is the practical and productive way to differentiate ones enjoyment in the life. It is beyond the stylish design and brightness of the display.

The islands in the Bazaruto archipelago in mozambique are perhaps the most beautiful in the entire Indian Ocean. Made up of just five small islands, Bazaruto, Benguerra, Magaruque, Santa Carolina and Bangue, the archipelago’s new status as a national park should save it from mass tourism and the operating hotels are passionate about keeping it that way.

CLASSIC

Boutique

Indigo Bay Island Resort and Spa

AZURA

offers world-class understated luxury, with its elegant design complimenting the stunning location on the white-sand shores of Bazaruto Island. Surrounded by palm trees and a turquoise sea, the accommodation consists of 30 Beach Chalets and 14 Luxury Villas. Constructed of natural materials such as reeds, soft-fringed thatch and wood, the accommodation blends harmoniously with the natural surroundings. Each chalet and villa offers complete comfort, with airconditioning, mosquito netting and screens, en-suite bathrooms, hammocks, mini bars, safes, satellite television and other standard hotel amenities.

With its tropical climate, unspoilt scenery and wealth of activities on offer, Indigo Bay Island Resort and Spa is the perfect getaway for families, honeymooners and incentive groups.

Casual elegance and a relaxed atmosphere await guests on the north-west coast of Benguerra Island in the Bazaruto Archipelago: Azura - Mozambique’s first luxury eco-boutique retreat. Amazing attention to detail has gone into the construction of this beautiful lodge, giving you a good slice of barefoot luxury at its best. And with its position along an incredible stretch of sand lapped by turquoise waters, Azura offers activities in abundance.

The surrounding ocean forms part of a national park and offers you exceptional snorkelling and scuba-diving. Azura has a gold-rated PADI dive centre and also offers catch-and-release deep sea fishing trips. However, one of the best things to do is absolutely nothing: settle onto the plump cushions shaded by thatched beachside salas and watch dhows sail by on the translucent sea.

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ECONOMY

ECONOMY

The CBK, by its very nature, is a vehicle used to implement short-term measures to produce short-term results. The responsibility for the long-term stability of the Kenyan Shilling falls on the treasury and its fiscal policy. - Image courtesy of Trevor Snapp; Bloomberg

K

enya stands out compared to other African countries, since it has been a regional hub for trade and development programmes, and it is now common knowledge that Kenya has discovered oil.

With elections having gone relatively smoothly in early March, one of the major risks to Kenya achieving its economic potential, is no longer the stability of its political system, but the stability of its currency and inflation.

It is likely that Kenyan consumers will face a fresh surge in inflation as the economy contends with uncertainty in Europe and a widening trade deficit that is weakening the Kenyan shilling. This will obviously detract from the amount of disposable income that the country’s growing middle-class will be able to spend. This is becoming a growing concern.

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ECONOMIC REPORT The 2013 economic outlook for Kenya looks very promising. Growth, which is thought to have averaged at less than five percent last year, should accelerate over the course of 2013 as improving macroeconomic conditions and the passage of elections bolster investor and consumer confidence.

Machero Africa Traveller

AMARRON FREDRICK for machero

Although inflation has been on a consistently rising curve, from an annualised 3.2% in December 2012, 3.7% in January 2013, spiking to 4.5% in February, inflation actually fell in March to 4.1%. Although base effects and increasing demand on the back of strong economic growth are likely to see inflation trend higher over the coming months, it would not be wrong to ascertain that the pace of the increase will be slower and more gradual.

Kenyan monetary policy makers are facing conflicting pressures, which make predicting the trajectory of monetary policy over the course of 2013 a difficult task. On one hand, still-benign inflation and a post-election rally for the Kenyan shilling ostensibly provide the leeway for the authorities to loosen policy. Such a course of action would give the economy - which already

stands to benefit from a healthy macro climate and a boost to sentiment after the completion of the election - a further shot in the arm.

Weighed against this however is the fact that the Central Bank of Kenya (CBK) continues to soak up liquidity via the repo market indicating that there are some concerns about excess liquidity in the economy. Monetary loosening would exacerbate the source of these concerns. Based on the evidence and past performance, it is likely that the authorities will adopt a wait-and-see approach and that ultimately there are unlikely to be further rate cuts in 2013.

Currently, the real central bank rate (CBR) is firmly in positive territory.

Ostensibly providing the monetary authorities with room to lower the rate further. Additionally, the Kenyan shilling has received a boost from the positive sentiment engendered by the completion of the electoral process and this will remove one of the major incentives for the authorities to continuing holding rates where they are.

However, despite the relatively benign inflationary picture and the current relative strength of the Kenyan shilling, the authorities clearly remain concerned about excess liquidity - a fact demonstrated by their continued activity in the repo market. In the week ending April 5th , KES4.9bn (US$58mn) was removed from the system via repos.

The CBR is the maximum rate that the authorities can offer in the repo market. Therefore, a cut to the CBR would lower the maximum rate that the authorities will be able to offer on the repo market, making participation in it less attractive. This could damage the CBK’s ability to manage liquidity using the repo market.

Another factor that could give the authorities reason to hold off from further easing, stems from the fact that prior reductions to the CBR have yet to be fully passed on by the banks to their customers. The spread between the CBR and the weighted average bank rate is hovering near six-year highs. This being the case, rather than

cutting the CBR further, the authorities are more likely to focus their efforts on getting the banks to pass on reductions that have already been made.

Mumblings can be heard in some quarters, that the CBK and its monetary policies are the main obstacles to a stable Kenyan Shilling. For some time now, leading analysts have argued that the CBK has over-relied on interventionist measures to artificially support the Kenyan Shilling, sheltering it from the market forces that would dictate its real value.

Although this represents an extremely valid point-of-view, I would have to suggest that this criticism is slightly unfair without placing it into some form of context. In some cases, the CBK has been forced to act, due to the

Until Kenya is able to match or exceed its exports against its imports, the Kenyan Shilling will remain weak in the long term.

For any country that has such a wide trade deficit, this spells bad news for its economy.

constant strain on the Kenyan Shilling.

Like in 2010 when the Kenyan Shilling reached an all time low against the US Dollar.

Although, by some countries’ standards, the CBK has been heavy-handed with its interventions, monetary policy cannot act in isolation. Fiscal policy is where the problems and long-term solutions lie.

Kenya is a net importer of goods and its trade deficit has been widening year on year. In 2012, Kenya’s current account deficit rose by 36 per cent, meaning that the gap between the value of its exports and imports, currently sits around the $10 billion mark.

As with most developing economies, oil presents the biggest cause for concern as it accounts for 25 per cent of total imports. A rise in the price of oil often spreads across the entire economy causing a general surge in the cost of goods and services. This trade deficit places the Kenyan Shilling under a constant strain.

Pressure from an already high import bill and the continued rise of this import bill against nearly stagnant export earnings is the shilling’s main point of exposure.

As long as Kenya has a balance of trade that is negative, the shilling is inevitably going to be vulnerable. Until Kenya is able to match or exceed its exports against its imports, the Kenyan Shilling will remain weak in the long term. For any country that has such a wide trade deficit, this spells bad news for its economy.

The CBK, by its very nature, is a vehicle used to implement short-term measures to produce short-term results.

The responsibility for the long-term stability of the Kenyan Shilling falls on the treasury and its fiscal policy.

It is a responsibility that Kenya’s newly formed government will have to shoulder with some aplomb to ensure that investor and consumer confidence remains high, ensuring that the current acceleration in economic growth is maintained throughout 2013 and beyond.

About the Author Amarron Fredrick is the Head of LeaderGen East Africa at LeaderGen Ltd. He is a qualified investment administrator with two and a half years extensive investment administration experience, along with two years international relationship management experience. A North West Development Agency’s EMBF Youth Entrepreneur Award winner, he possess a keen interest in economic development and international trade, with a particular emphasis on the emerging African market.

He has previously worked alongside East African organisations, to facilitate trade flows with the UK and the East Africa Region as a whole and was responsible for shaping and achieving key growth targets in the East Africa region.

36% Percentent by which Kenya’s Current account deficit rose in 2012.

This means that the gap between the value of its exports and imports, currently sits around the $10 billion mark.

$58 million Amount of money removed from the system by CBK via repos in the week ending April 5th.

4.1% Kenya’s inflation rate as of March 2013.

Although inflation has been on a consistently rising curve, from an annualised 3.2% in December 2012, 3.7% in January 2013, spiking to 4.5% in February, inflation actually fell in March.

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Business

What you should know about Private Equity BY c. andre haukaas

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April - June 2013

Machero Africa Traveller

How can economic growth in the some of the most technologically advanced, parts of the world be kept below 2% per year? It may seem odd that the U.S. and Eurozone are sluggish while its 30 million unemployed are educated and ablebodied with ample time on their hands. This is the kind of paradox that makes Marx an interesting read but critics of capitalism may have to hold their breath a little longer before getting the last laugh.

P

rivate Equity (“PE”) became a known asset class in the 1980’s and despite the market madness of the previous decade, it has grown in size every year since records began in 2000. Unlike the many asset bubbles that have been built on loose speculation, PE has good reasons for growth.

In 2012, Private Equity reached $3.2 trillion in assets under management, according to Preqin. Global economic turmoil has made it very difficult for investors to make “easy money” on the stock market so large fund managers and wealthy investors have been committing more of their assets to PE investments, particularly in emerging markets.

The reasons are pretty simple. The West has a large and aging “baby boomer” demographic that has not saved enough for retirement and probably won’t make up for it in the current economy. American investors, particularly pension funds, insurance companies and the large investment funds who manage most of the $19.4 trillion in U.S. retirement money cannot settle for the 6-7% returns on investment they have received from fixed income, real estate and equity investments over the last 10 years, according to Preqin. European investors, faced with higher public welfare obligations and a prolonged debt crisis, also need higher returns.

So why turn to Private Equity? PE funds are professional investors that rely on experts to add value to their investments over a 5 to 10-year investment period. They are generally well prepared for economic shocks and market risks and they work closely with the executives of the companies they invest in. A PE investor’s experience, network and money can help a company create new revenue streams, improve management and profitability, fund growth through acquisitions and marketing, and ultimately position the company for a higher exit valuation, i.e. sale price, which is how PE funds make money.

The hands-on approach seems to work. Since 2003, PE investments have outperformed U.S. and European stock indexes by an average 5 to 7 percentage points, respectively, according to data from Thompson Reuters. The performance of top-quartile U.S. and European PE funds

outperformed their respective market indexes by 19 percentage points.

Unlike the many asset bubbles of the last decade that have gone bust because of loose speculation, PE performance is based on professional expertise, so growth of the asset class is expected to continue. This does not mean that PE is without challenges. Higher competition between PE funds is making good investments harder to find.

In the PE industry, “Dry Powder” is the term for committed capital that has not been invested. Dry Powder rose to over $1tn in 2008 following the financial crisis and remains high at nearly $900bn, especially considering only $186bn was invested last year and over $200bn of new funds was raised.

Given the difficult economic environment in the West, there have been opportunities to make money by consolidating companies in industries suffering from lower consumer demand. However, PE funds still have to exit these investments so ultimately PE returns depend on economic growth to support corporate buyers and public demand for IPOs. With long-term GDP growth rates below 2% in most developed markets, finding good investments with exit opportunities in the West will continue to be a challenge.

Following the 2008 financial crisis, PE investors went to emerging markets in search of greener pastures with many landing in Indonesia by the planeload. By 2011, 70% of PE investments were made in Emerging Asia.

Naturally competition has increased and 2012 was the first year that PE investments in Asia fell in number and value. This development comes on warnings of new asset bubbles, inflation pressures and lowered growth forecasts in the region.

Of the $200bn in new funds raised globally for PE last year, 20% of the funds were committed to emerging markets, which is up from 12% in 2007 and 5% in 2003, according to the Emerging Markets Private Equity Association (EMPEA). Given the investment challenges in developed markets, emerging market PE investment will continue its growth trend. You may ask, specifically which emerging markets stand to receive funding moving forward?

PE funds are professional investors that rely on experts to add value to their investments over a 5 to 10-year investment period.

They are generally well prepared for economic shocks and market risks and they work closely with the executives of the companies they invest in.

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Business

The challenge for Private Equity is that it has very little experience in Africa. PE was virtually nonexistent in East Africa ten years ago and it has not yet developed a track record.

According to an EMPEA survey of PE investors, Latin America, Sub-Saharan Africa and Russia/CIS were the only three regions to receive higher attractiveness ratings for new investment during the next 12 months. Sub-Saharan Africa ranked 6 out of 10, which falls behind Emerging Asia, China and Brazil with Latin America (LATAM) leading the regions with a 10 out of 10 ranking, up from 7 out of 10 in the previous year. But is LATAM really the best choice?

Sub-Saharan Africa (SSA) and LATAM are clearly the two new alternatives to Asia but SSA contains 6 of the 10 fastest growing economies in the world into 2015, according to the IMF. Real GDP growth for LATAM is projected below 4% into 2020, compared to a 5% growth rate in SSA, according to Oxford Economics.

Africa’s largely Anglophone and Francophone population of 1 billion (including North Africa) is projected to double its consumer spending from $716bn to $1.4tn by 2020, according to Ernst & Young. And of course, there are new prospects for oil, gas and mineral exploration, which tends to provide a nice boost to GDP. Large regions of Africa have not been properly surveyed for natural resources. Major discoveries of oil, gas and rare earth minerals in East Africa have been accomplished despite the absence of comprehensive aerial surveys.

Major oil discoveries are being made in Uganda, Kenya and Ethiopia, though its full potential has not yet been quantified. The Kwale Titanium mine in Kenya is expected to generate 14% of the world’s rutile output and 10% of the world’s ilmenite output, the two principle sources of titanium, according to Base Titanium and the Business Daily.

An estimated 6% of global natural gas reserves are to be found offshore Tanzania, Mozambique and Madagascar, according to a recent U.S. geological survey, and Somalia, with a new government and high expectations for oil and mineral exploration is another area to watch closely.

If there is any region of focus, it should be East Africa.

Remember how 6 of the 10 fastest growing economies in world are in Africa? Five of them share a border with the East African Community (EAC). The EAC is developing an Anglophone-Swahili common market of 146 million people and it is strategically located to become a trade and services hub between Europe, the Middle East, Asia and Central Africa.

The challenge for Private Equity is that it has very little experience in Africa. PE was virtually non-existent in East Africa ten years ago and it has not yet developed a track record.

Part of the challenge is that financial markets are poorly structured in the region and there are very few large companies. For the last few years, the Nairobi Securities Exchange has had about 50 listed companies with a total

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market capitalisation of $10bn. At the end of 2012, the market cap had risen to about $14bn but with such a small market, it is not surprising that a single company, Safaricom, accounted for 15% of the total market cap.

Working with small and medium enterprises (SMEs) is very different from working with established mid-sized companies and large corporates, which is where most PE funds work. Almost half of PE investments globally are between $500m and $5bn. By comparison, 40% of PE investments in East Africa in 2011 were less than $5 million, according to Africa Assets.

SMEs in East Africa have major challenges, particularly in scarcity of talent, poor or absent operating procedures, and above all, poor governance. Entrepreneurs in the region are emotionally highly attached to their companies and to their shares, which can make the initial valuation, operating improvements and exit very challenging. Furthermore, professional management training is rare among SMEs, making it difficult for investors and managers to see eye to eye.

Sub-Saharan Africa, and particularly East Africa, may have strategic advantages and more opportunities than LATAM but due to the challenges mentioned above for a PE investor in Africa, LATAM may continue to attract more attention than Africa in the near term.

The SME challenge is particularly pronounced in Africa but this is a global problem. In developed markets, SME’s contribute 55% of GDP, over 60% of jobs and the majority of product innovation, but around the world, SME’s face limited access to finance, professional talent and efficient value chains. In developed nations where these ingredients are in greater supply, SMEs should be driving the economy and creating jobs but the West remains sluggish.

In low-income nations, where business headwinds are strongest, SMEs contribute only 16% of GDP, according to research by the OECD. If you include micro enterprises, an even smaller version of an SME, you are looking at probably 90% of a developing nation’s businesses and employment with a very small share of income.

Working against these headwinds should be a job for professionals but PE investors will have to roll up their sleeves much further to succeed working with SME managers in this environment.

Given that Dry Powder remains high, many PE funds may have to change their business model and find new ways to invest. For some funds, this may entail leaving the comfort zone of their more developed home markets. It will certainly require a rethink by the PE industry as a whole on how to develop SMEs. For questions or comments email chaukaas@hawkhillpartners.com or find us on Twitter @Hawkhill_Ltd.

Get the latest on business trends in Africa at

MACHERO BIZ

MACHERO BIZ TO SUBSCRIBE, PLEASE VISIT www.machero-africa.com/biz

Conservation

Feature

in 2009 Usain Bolt named and adopted a cheetah cub, you too can help by adopting a cheetah TODAY

Navigating the Nyanza Africa’s largest fresh water lake is a fascinating pool of legends, history and biodiversity. It only needs time to traverse its might….

Machero ni leo As it stands, the need to conserve both our flora and fauna across the globe and especially in Kenya has become more urgent today than it ever was. We continue to witness a scenario where a few individuals are ready to sacrifice the greater good of humanity for their selfish immediate needs through poaching and outright destruction of the very environment that sustains their livelihood. The elephant tusk and the rhino horn have become the greatest impediment to the survival of these two iconic animals. It’s not just these two that are endangered, every day we move ever so close towards a situation where conservation must become the only foundation for our future.

Conservation is not the work of a few individuals, NGOs and state organizations like Kenya Wildlife Service. Conservation must begin with each of us. We must first acknowledge that our livelihoods are so dependent on the environment we inhabit that it will be foolhardy to let it burn away.

‘Machero’ is the future and fortunately that future belongs to the outdoors.

Tourism and travel in Kenya will continue to be a rewarding outdoor experience.

Kenya Wildlife Service remains at the forefront of conserving the last great species and places on Earth for humanity. Our parks provide visitors with virgin spaces and stunning backdrops that is every photographers dream background.

Let these wild spaces breathe life into you, let the warthogs, baboons and monkeys humuor you, come fill the thrill of the big cat hunt and be amazed at the sheer size of the African elephant or go watch the amazing bird spectacles and experience sunrises and sunsets like no other. Above all let your children enjoy the worlds’ best outdoor classrooms for the future belongs to them.

We are proud to be part of the future. The future is what Kenya Wildlife Service and conservation is about. We also want to welcome all of you to be part and parcel of this great commission. Let us all heed the call for our future lies in this great commission of conservation and let us all enjoy the beauty that adorns the Kenyan landscape even as we save the last great species and places on Earth for humanity.

Machero ni leo- ‘The future is now. Help support our conservation efforts; Adopt an animal today.

Email: adopt@kws.go.ke or rmm@kws.go.ke

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Feature

Clockwise from left: A panoramic view of Lake Victoria and the adjacent shore just after the sun has sunk beyond the horizon. One of the many rock islands that litter Lake victoria. A fisher man carries a 20 Kilo Nile Perch to shore. Kiboko bay luxury tented camp built by Nirmal Darbar

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By Rupi Mangat

T

he Bantu called it ‘nyanja’ – the word for a big lake. The ancient Arab traders knew of it as they traversed the interior in search of ivory, gold and slaves. The first known record of the lake is the Al Idrisi map (named after the map maker) dated 1160s, clearly showing the great water mass as the source of the Nile. But to the world at large, it still lay unknown. Then John Hanning Speke saw it in 1858 and taken by its grandeur, decided it had to be the source of the Nile – and the mystery of the great Nile was ‘solved’. He renamed it Lake Victoria after the British monarch.

With a surface area of 68,800 square kilometres (26,600 sq mi), Lake Victoria also takes pride as the largest tropical lake in the world and the world’s second-largest fresh water lake after Lake Superior in the United States

Machero Africa Traveller

of America. Shared by three countries, its shoreline spans 4,828 km with the smallest share in Kenya – six per cent while Uganda has 45 per cent and Tanzania 49 per cent.

Fast forward to the start of the 20th century. The last nail in the last sleeper of the Uganda Railway was driven in by Florence Preston on 20 December 1901and the lakeshore village named Port Florence – but only for a year. The trading port reverted to its original name from the Luo phrase - “Adhi Kisuma” meaning ‘I’m going to trade’. Kisumu is the English corruption of the word ‘Kisumo’. The railway – the first modern infrastructure in East Africa from Mombasa to Kisumu opened the interior of East Africa – a distance of almost a thousand kilometers. In October 1900, the 62ton ship Sir William Mackinnon, 1st Baronet, built and registered in Kisumu, made its maiden voyage to Entebbe.

The Winfred and the Sybil were later added to the fleet in 1902 and 1904, respectively. The English statesman Winston Churchill visited Kisumu in 1907.

The trading port reverted to its original name from the Luo phrase “Adhi Kisuma” meaning ‘I’m going to trade’. Kisumu is the English corruption of the word ‘Kisumo’

Today, Kisumu is the third largest city in Kenya and a great starting point to navigate the Nyanza.

When Nirmal Darbar landed on Kisumu’s lakeshore vistas a few years ago, he saw it as the French Riviera of Africa, so awed was he by the beauty of the lake. On the lakeshore, a few minutes from town he built the first luxury tented camp and aptly named it, Kiboko Bay in honour of the river horse which at one time was common in the fresh water bodies of sub-Saharan Africa.

With such a rich maritime history, when Kisumu boasted as being the major port on Lake Victoria during the hey-days of the East African Commonwealth, Darbar fashioned the reception as the captain’s room complete with a porthole and a miniature throttle to control the ship, buying all the now-antiquated stuff from auctions, and from people who at one time worked at the port and had things lying around.

The lake has so much potential. I would like to see more

places like these open by the lake. We could make a lake circuit here with people sailing to Mbita Point where the lighthouse is (The Lake Victoria Safari Village) or to other ports of call. It’s a great lake for game fishing with 28-kilo Nile perch hauled in.

A few minutes drive from Kiboko Bay, is Impala Ecolodge, Kisumu’s premier luxury lodge in the iconic Kisumu Impala Sanctuary. The sanctuary was created to protect the remaining herds of impala that up to the 1960s were common around town. Hippos still wander in at night and in recent times, more animals have been brought in like lions, leopard, cheetah, buffalo and zebra, rhino and monkeys.

Hidden from view, a suspended bridge leads to the lodge on Victoria’s shores. The modern lodge built along the Luo ethos of thatched roofs has visitors, landing at the new Kisumu International Airport, brought in by speedboat – depending on which direction the wind has pushed the water hyacinth.

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kaye stopped for rest after her long journey down the Nile.

The 20-minute boat ride to Ndere Island from the Kenya Wildlife Service is picturesque and landing ashore we hike through the riverine forest and onto the grass plains of the island, following the narrow route to the summit. The island park is home to the sitatunga, a semi-aquatic antelope that was once common along the papyrus-shrouded lake shores. Today, it’s rarely seen but a camping trip to the island is your best bet of spotting this shy antelope and the Blue swallow an intra-migrant African bird which flies in from South Africa.

At the Obama’s in Kogelo An hour’s-hour drive away from Ndere Island, we’re on our way to visit the world’s most famous grandma, Mama Obama in the now famous village, Kogelo.

Mama Sarah is a charmer. Soft-spoken, she’s unaffected by the world’s interest in her family but nevertheless proud of her step-grandson.

The graves of Obama’s father and grandfather lie by the house - simple graves marked with tombstones. Grandfather Obama’s reads, “Jaduong Hussein Onyango Obama 1870-29/11/1975. May his soul rest in peace.”

The grave of President Barack Obama’s father lies a few feet away. The simple inscription on it reads “Barack Hussein Obama 1936-1982. Ibed Gi Kwe. Rest in Peace.”

Barack Obama’s father was one of the beneficiaries of ‘Mboya Airlift’ project of the 1960s, which saw several thousand Kenyans fly to the USA for university education.

As a brilliant scholar, he met Anne Durham and the rest is history.

Luo legend has it that Kit Mikaye the mother of the Luo people settled around the gigantic kopjes near Kisumu after her long trek down the Nile

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Loop around the Lake Kit Mikaye Luo legend has it that Kit Mikaye the mother of the Luo people settled around the gigantic kopjes near Kisumu after her long trek down the Nile, after a brief stop at Ndere island.

The giant boulders soaring 40 metres to the sky are amazing. Climbing up the narrow veins through the boulders offers stunning views of the landscape so full of rocks strewn around the land. The natural caves within the rocks are the praying site of the Legio Maria, a sect started by Simeo Ondetto, considered as the returned Son of God by the followers. The religious movement became popular amongst the Luo after repeated appearances in 1930s of a mystic woman to several Roman Catholic members, delivering messages about the incarnation of the son of God as a black man. Another legend of the stones is of the first wife, who turns jealous after her husband showed more interest in the second wife and another of the first Luo man who settled in the area and built the home of the first wife here.

After the climb, we’re off to Ndere island where Kit Mi-

Machero Africa Traveller

Above: The famous Kit Mikaye kopje. Right: Luo fishermen using an electric lamp to aid their vision while they fish at night.

Kanyaboli - Kenya’s largest oxbow lake Past Mama Obama’s at Kogelo, we’re on our way to Lake Kanyaboli, another hour’s drive away. Gazetted as Lake Kanyaboli National Reserve in 2010, it’s Kenya’s largest oxbow lake on the Yala River. Set in green fields of rice on a large private farm on land reclaimed from a large portion of the 17,500-hectare Yala Swamp, the famous swamp filters the water clean before it enters the Lake Victoria. For birders, Kanyaboli is prime spot for the endemic papyrus bird, the Papyrus gonolek. Kanyaboli is also described as a ‘living museum’ of what Lake Victoria was before the 1950s. Fish that were once found in Victoria and now extinct are still found in Kanyaboli.

It’s my lucky day for within minutes of reaching the oxbow lake, a Gonolek papyrus flies through the papyrus giving me a perfect view of it. A trip to Lake Kanyaboli deserves more than a day for there are three lakes that lie in the swamp - Kanyaboli (15 square kilometers), Namboyo (0.5 square kilometers) and Sare (5 square kilometers). Lake Sare discharges into Lake Victoria directly and hence is vitally important for the replenishment of the lake – and it’s another opportunity to search for the rare sitatunga.

Across the lake stands, the hill of Got Ramogi, revered by the Luo community for it is believed that the patriarch of the Luos,- Baba Ramogi Ajuang, settled here in the 15th century. It’s a place for hiking on the next visit including the Akara hills, the water catchment area for the oxbow lake.

Lake Victoria Safari Village, Mbita Point Driving back from Lake Kanyaboli, we’re at Luanda Kotieno to catch the ferry to Mbita Point. It’s a 50-minute18-kilometer crossing to Mbita Point with the picturesque canoes of the local Luo sailing past.

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Above: The Sun sets on Lake Victoria.

Right: Ruma of the Roan, the rare antelope on the verge of extinction

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A tall light house stands on the peninsula at Mbita Point overlooking the lake and the hills of Gwasi and Gembe.

This charming tall structure is the work of Odd Bredo. It’s a novelty to spend the night in the lighthouse. Waking up at night, the lake’s a floating city lit by the lanterns of the Luo fishermen.

Bredo takes us for a sail on the lake to explore the islands of Rusinga, Mfangano and the twin islands of ‘Mbasa’.

Uninhabited by humans, the twin islands are busy perching posts for the uncountable colonies of birds and serpents like the gigantic monitor lizards.

Mfangano, the largest of the Kenyan islands is within easy reach. The suburban island with its modern infrastructure is ringed with fishermen’s beaches where the women dry the ‘omena’ (a small species of fish). We climb up a hill to the prehistoric Mawanga cave to see the rock art that dates between 1000 to 4000 years ago. The island across is Nzenze Island, used for rainmaking ceremonies.

Folklore has it that Nzenze, called the ‘Moving Island’ is said to have followed the Wasamo clan who migrated from Uganda and will continue to follow the clan wherever it goes. Only clan members are allowed to land on the island.

A few minutes sail away and Bredo points to the ‘Bridge Islands’ created by the water eroding the softer stone and leaving the harder stones which form the bridges. At Ngodhe island, Bredo’s research reveals that after the 2nd World War, ten out of a squadron of approximately 25 planes or more appropriately, flying boats, were sunk here by the British after they were stripped. The ramp used then for the flying boats is at the Kisumu Airport.

Our next foray is to Rusinga island connected to Mbita sand with a causeway. At the end of December, the sun sinks bang in the middle of the Mbasa islands and continues to move like it has since time immemorial to the pinnacle of the highest point of Rusinga island reaching it in June and then back to Mbasa.

The causeway to Rusinga from Mbita is always a chaotic scene with the motor bike taxis, the motorized version of the boda-boda, jostling for space to drive across the murrum highway. Rusinga island is where the late Tom Mboya, one of the first politicians in the newly independent Kenya was born. His mausoleum is a ‘must-do’. Just in his mid thirties, Machero Africa Traveller

the firebrand politician served as a trade union leader, Minister for Labor, Minister for Constitutional Affairs and finally Minster for Economic Planning. He was the force behind the ‘Mboya Airlift’ that saw thousands of young Africans fly to the USA for university education in the 1960s. He was gunned down in down-town Nairobi in 1969 aged only 39.

Rusinga’s other claim to fame is that it is the home of one of human-kinds early ancestor, the 18 million year old Proconsul africanus found in 1948 by Mary and Louis Leakey, the most complete skeleton of its kind to be found. More ape than human, the habitat at that time suited the species because than Rusinga was a densely forested island.

Ruma of the Roan A rare antelope on the verge of extinction From Mbita, we drive to Ruma national park. Hills dot the surroundings – Homa Bay, Kendu Bay, Gembe Hills and many more. It’s a rough murram road and on the base of Gwasi hills we stop for lunch at the tiny hamlet of Sindo for tilapia and fried meat with ugali.

We enter Ruma through Nyatoto Gate where the metal cast of the roan antelope is stuck the gate on. This subspecies is only found in the Ruma National Park – and its numbers dwindling. At the start of the millennium there were close to fifty but today the population has plummeted to 26.

In Luo tradition, the horns and pelt were much sought after – especially for ceremonial functions.

We see the herd of the handsome roan and later the translocated rhino and the rare Rothschild giraffe, including the topi and the tiny oribi antelope.

Spending the night at Oribi House, set high on the Kanyamwa escarpment looking into Lambwe Valley, we can see the Lambwe River and an eagle-eye view of the park with Lake Victoria in the far distance.

Driving out of Kamato gate to Kisumu via Mirogi, there are more spots to seek out for the next safari to the lake.

There’s Lake Simbi and the hot springs near Kendu Bay, including the five-centuries old stone city of Thimlich Ohinga which means “frightening dense forest” in Dholuo language. Research shows that the stone city goes beyond 500 years ago and could have been built by the Bantus prior to the arrival of Luos.

Fact File Kiboko Bay Resort - (254) 057 2025510; mobile 0733 532709/ 0724 387738 email: info@kibokobay.com or visit the website: www. kibokobay.com Campsite at Kisumu Impala Sanctuary, Ndere island, Ruma National Park – www.kws.org Impala EcoLodge in the Sanctuary – call 254-0572533040 or info@impalaecolodge.com Kogelo Village Resort 200 meters from Mama Obama’s homestead. Contact: +254714000011 or +254788888440 www.kogelovillageresort.com kogelovillageresort@gmail.com. You do need an official letter to visit Mama Obama. Enquire with Kogelo Village Resort.

Lake Victoria Safari village at Mbita Point. www. safarikenya.net/ Email: village@safarikenya.net or Craig Griffiths, 0711 841 563, craiggriffiths1@gmail.com Ruma national park: No lodge but stay at the KWS Oribi guest house.

For guided tours around the lake contact Lake Victoria Sunset Birders – lakevictoriasunsetbirders@yahoo.co.uk or call 0734 994938, +254-57-2024162 Read on ancient rock art – www.africanrockart.org Distances Kisumu to Kanyaboli on Bondo-Osenge road – 142 kilometers Kanyaboli to Siaya – 18 kilometers Bondo to Luanda K’otieno -47 kilometers Luanda K’otieno – Kisumu – 105 kilometers Ruma national park is 140 km from Kisumu, and 425 km west of Nairobi.

Ferry timings: Luanda K’otieno to Mbita Point – 8 am, 11 am, 3 pm, 6pm Mbita Point to Luanda K’otieno – 7 am, 10 am, 2pm, 5pm – call 0724 116410 for details

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top attractions

What in Africa?

There’s A WHOLE OF HOST OF EVENTS IN WHICH TO PARTAKE – OR SIMPLY SIT BACK AND ENJOY THE SHOW...

1 TANZANIA May 31 - June 2 2013 | KARIBU FAIR Karibu is the leading travel trade event in East Africa. Originally created to promote Tanzania, it’s now a regional event that also features many products and delegates from Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda.

Karibu’s major function is one of a relationship broker who targets, attracts and matches the needs of buyers and suppliers.

2 South Africa May 8 - 10 2013 | The 23rd World Economic Forum on Africa, Cape Town Under the theme “Delivering on Africa’s Promise”, the 23rd World Economic Forum on Africa will provide an important platform for regional and global leaders from business, government and civil society to deepen the continent’s integration agenda and renew commitment to a sustainable path of growth and development by addressing the following themes:

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• • •

3 KENYA

1

2 5 5 mauritius August 22 - 24 2013| MAITEX The second edition of MAITEX (Mauritius International Trade Exhibition) will be organised at the Swami Vivekananda International Conference Centre.

MAITEX is an ideal opportunity for professional buyers to discover our savoir-faire and quality products and to meet local manufacturers.

The first two days of the event will be reserved exclusively for B2B meetings between buyers and suppliers while the last day will be opened to the public.

Accelerating Economic Diversification Boosting Strategic Infrastructure Unlocking Africa’s Talent

9 April - 01 May, 2013 | 16th AutoExpo KICC Nairobi Exhibitors from over 22 countries and visitors from 11 African and 12 other countries have made Autoexpo the most prolific automobile, spares and accessories trade exhibition in Kenya and one of the largest fairs in Africa.

Supported by highly active organizations such as the Kenya National Chambers Of Commerce & Industry, MATRADE, African Business Development Association, etc; the Africa automobile exhibition promises excellent sourcing opportunities for buyers in Africa from world’s leading suppliers.

4 Nigeria June 10 - 13 2013 | African Petroleum Convention & Expo, Lagos This is an important event that is be supported by leading industry players and partners from across the continent and overseas. Its focus on upstream, midstream and downstream activities will provide a solid avenue to showcase opportunities for local and foreign investors, both present and potential players. It is going to be the only hydrocarbons show organized by a Pan African oil and gas trade association, with a regional scope and mandate.

Website: www.ketepa.com Email: ketepa@ketepa.com April - June 2013 Machero Africa Traveller

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Discover

Luxury Locations Are you planning the luxury vacation of a lifetime? A trip filled with exciting destinations and wonderful experiences? Do you want to live it up and travel in opulence and style? More than likely your thoughts gravitate towards the glamour of Europe, the mystique of the Far East, or perhaps, a tropical paradise surrounded by white sand and clear waters in Indonesia. You may imagine an extravagant getaway in Istanbul or Monte Carlo where you your every whim is catered to, or perhaps a lavish vacation in Africa. Wait…Africa? Surely the words “Africa” and “luxury” do not belong together in the same sentence?

#1 Singita, Sabi Sand, Kruger National Park, South Africa #3 Fairmont Mara Safari Club, Masai Mara, Kenya #7 Kirawira Luxury Tented Camp, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania #8 Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve, Sabi Sands, South Africa #9 Tortilis Camp, Amboseli National Park, Kenya Travel & Leisure is but one source. Conde Nast, World Travel Awards, National Geographic, and many other travel critics love pouring the awards on Africa because there is so much to praise. And why not? After all, Africa fuses the best of Europe and the Middle East, particularly British hospitality, with culturally vibrant Africa to produce a splendid result, one that always leaves travelers in awe and wanting to return from the moment their African adventure is over.

Cape Grace Hotel

U

nfortunately many travelers either have no idea, or otherwise a very skewed view, of what Africa has to offer. For many, ideas of luxury accommodations, pristine environs, and wild splendor are not the first thoughts that come to mind. Rather, for the majority of travelers ideas of uncivilized regions, disease, war, crime, third world living conditions, and poverty are among some of the first thoughts that enter their minds when thinking about Africa.

It is time for a new set of mental images in regards to travel in Africa, images that are realistic and reflect the true nature of this amazing continent: beautiful, unspoiled, peaceful, grand, luxurious, extravagant, multicultural, and welcoming. Africa’s status as a luxury travel destination has been a well-guarded secret – until now.

When discussing luxury travel in Africa it is worth noting that tourism is a major source of income for much of Africa, and as such, there are few places in the world where you will find such excellent service and such a strong focus on providing unrivaled experiences. It says a lot that Africa was awarded five of the top ten entries in Travel & Leisure’s Top 100 Hotels Overall in the World for 2008:

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Machero Africa Traveller

So what might a lavish vacation in Africa entail?

From Cape Town to Cairo, Africa is a continent of indulgence. But what better place to begin than in Cape Town, South Africa located at the southern end of Africa and ranked as the 3rd best city in the world to visit by Travel & Leisure in 2008, over the likes of Rome, Paris, and New York. Your accommodations here are at the five star, Cape Grace Hotel, a top 10 hotel as ranked by TripAdvisor Traveler’s Choice Awards (US) 2008 with the best service and staff of any hotel worldwide according to Conde Nast in 2007. It has also won top hotel awards (ranked number twenty-two in the world, to be exact) from Travel & Leisure for 2008. From the charming Cape Winelands to sundowners in the bay with magnificent sunsets to views of the mighty Atlantic from atop Table Mountain, Cape Town will leave you breathless. Here you relax and enjoy some of the finest cuisine Africa has to offer along with white sand beaches, a vibrant city life, and a blend of cultures all converging in one location.

Ulusaba Private Game Reserve

Next, you are whisked away to Ulusaba Private Game Reserve, owned by the self-made billionaire, Sir Richard Branson. No expense has been spared in making this a luxurious safari lodge tucked away in the Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve, adjacent to Kruger National Park. It was a 2007 Golden Achiever Award recipient, listed on the 2008 Forbes Traveler 400 list, and was acknowledged as the “Best of the Best” in the Most Socially Responsible Hotel category by Virtuoso in 2008. At Ulusaba astounding game viewing, where you are sure to see herds of elephants and lions on the hunt, combined with decadent luxury and sumptuous meals will leave you feeling invigorated and fully immersed in Africa’s incredible wilderness. You might even get lucky and meet Sir Richard Branson, as he is known to stop by from time to time for a little rest and relaxation.

Bazaruto Archipelago

Your next stop is the Bazaruto Archipelago, a pristine expanse of turquoise waters and white sand beaches located right off the coast of Mozambique, near Vilanculos. Here you spend a few days at Benguerra Lodge, voted as Mozambique’s Leading Safari at the 2007World Travel Awards, where your accommodations are luxurious Casitas situated right on the beach next to the exquisite Indian Ocean.

On this tropical paradise you are treated to superb seafood cuisine fused with eastern African spices, white sandy beaches, excellent service, some of the best coral snorkeling on the planet, sailing on local dhows, and much more. After relaxing at one of Africa’s most unspoiled tropical destinations your final stop is Victoria Falls, one of the seven natural wonders of the world. Located on the border of Zambia and Zimbabwe, Victoria Falls is truly remarkable. Upon seeing the falls for the first time, David Livingstone remarked, “scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.” Here you stay at the Victoria Falls Hotel, which was given the award of Zimbabwe’s Leading Hotel 2008 by World Travel Awards. It was also one of Travel & Leisure’s Top 25 Hotels in Africa & Middle East for 2008 as well as ranked as one of The Leading Hotels of the World. Here you embark on an unforgettable elephant back safari through Victoria Falls Na-

tional Park, enjoy a sundowner cruise on the mighty Zambezi River, and soak in the spectacular beauty of the Falls from the many viewing spots within the Victoria Falls Rainforest.

This description is but one small example of what you might experience when embarking on a luxury vacation to Africa. There are so many other extraordinary destinations and accommodations located throughout Africa, where the sights and experiences are amazing and like none other on our planet. In Botswana, for example, you find the Okavango Delta, where the annual rain waters from the north meet the Kalahari Desert in the south to form a delta that arguably has some of the best game viewing in all of Africa. Here you will find some of the continent’s most luxurious and exclusive lodges, including Mombo Camp, Abu Camp, and many others.

Kenya’s Masai Mara National Reserve, where huge migrations of zebra and wildebeest can be observed crossing the plains to the Serengeti in Tanzania, is dotted with uber-luxury camps such as Kichwa Tembo Bateleur Camp and Fairmont Mara Safari Club. Uganda and the Congo offer unique destinations, including Gorilla Forest Camp, in some of the wildest jungles on earth where close up encounters with gorillas are possible. Tanzania has the remarkable Ngorongoro Crater where large concentrations of predators and other wildlife live within the world’s largest intact volcanic caldera.

Tanzania is also home to the Serengeti National Park and Selous Game Reserve, both of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, as well as Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s tallest mountain. Even some of the smaller countries such as Rwanda, Malawi, and Burundi have much to offer the luxury traveler that is looking for that unique vacation. Zanzibar and the Seychelles are both beautiful tropical getaways.

Namibia has Etosha National Park, Skeleton Coast and the sand dunes of the Namib Desert. Zambia, Zimbabwe, South Africa, and Mozambique all have many beautiful and exotic places to visit. The list goes on and on. But the bottom line is simple: for the discerning traveler who is looking for unsurpassed luxury coupled with unmatched service in some of Planet Earth’s most incredible destinations, there is no option like Africa.

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PICTURE THIS

MURCHSON FALLS UGANDA

Flying low and fast, often at night, and with an elongated beak cleaving the water is a smart way to catch fish. Flocks of African skimmers patrol the waters

PICTURE THIS

Bourke’s Luck Potholes South Africa

Sustained kolks in the Treur River’s plunge pools have eroded a number of cylindrical potholes or giant’s kettles, which can be viewed from the crags above. It was named after a local prospector, Tom Bourke, who predicted the presence of gold, though he found none himself. The pedestrian bridges connect the various overlooks of the potholes and the gorge downstream.

PICTURE THIS

KaokovelD NAMIBIA The Namibian coast is a completely unique environment. Harsh and desolated its fascination lies in the endless stark landscapes and the pure and quiet natural surrounds.

Approaching the sea along the Hoarusib River in Namibia’s Kaokoveld, the dunes grow to enormous proportions and animals seek what little verdure and water the dry bed can provide.

Pictured here is the famous Gemsbok antelope at home in this unforgiving landscape.

| ENDORSES Ngorongoro CRATER Lodge

the game lodge at the top of the world Perched on the rim of the collapsed volcano, the Ngorongoro Crater lodge is a beauty to behold.

Between the natural riches of the Crater spread out at its feet and the amazing architecture, it’s easy to believe that you have entered a realm of pure fantasy. With ever-changing views as mists swirl and clouds scurry over the huge wildlife cauldron below, the location is truly breathtaking.

Unmatched for its natural variety, there are few places on earth where such a tremendous diversity of landscapes exist inside a region this size. Apart from its wildlife riches, the NCA is also of great archaeological importance, with the remains of some of mankind’s earliest ancestors discovered in the area.

The largest intact caldera in the world, the Ngorongoro Crater shelters one of the most beautiful wildlife havens anywhere. A permanent population of more than 30 000 animals inhabit a mere 260 km² (100 square miles) in the 600 m (2 000 ft) deep crater, making this one of the few places in Africa where guests stand a great chance of seeing the entire Big Five in the course of a single game drive.

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Africas Best Beaches Too often overshadowed by the wildlife of its interior, Africa’s perimeter is a worthy reason to travel too. As das naji finds out, No one’s going to claim Africa has all the best beaches in the world, but it has some of them.

From the wind-tickled shores of the Seychelles to the haunting, seal-dappled coast of Namibia, the continent’s sandy fringe is varied and dramatic.

Nungwi Zanzibar, Tanzania The paradisaical shores of Zanzibar are exotic as its name. Rugged coral and limestone scarps form a sheltered backdrop to tranquil, caster sugar beaches that slope gently down into crystal – clear waters, abundant with marine life. Tall coconut palms and stalking Pandanus cast their wondering shadows over the white sands and swaying hammocks, while Green Wood Hoopoes and Weaver birds flit and flutter

between the green leaves and pendulous fruit high above.

On the northern tip of the island, is the popular Nungwi Peninsular, with its boats building industry, coral lagoons and Turtle Aquarium. What was once a simple fishing village and dhow-building center has become a popular holiday destination, where palms casually amble onto a beach that dissolves gradually

into shades of turquoise. There are adventures and activities here to suit all tastes – including the Zanzibar Dolphin safari at Kizimkazi, which lies within the Menai Bay Conservation Zone. Beach activities within the hotels range from volleyball to horse riding, while many have diving schools, windsurfing schools, kite surfing, pentanque and skittle.

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Chitimba Malawi There isn’t much to Chitimba besides a peaceful stretch of inland beach -- the lake the beach borders is one of the biggest in Africa. Wrapped with densely vegetated hills and trees that filter down to the edge of the sand, it’s a quiet piece of freshwater paradise. f you’re feeling energetic, Chitimba Camp’s guides can take you walking into the surrounding hills.

Good to know: Ichthyologists say there could be up to 1,000 species of fish in Lake Malawi.

Anse Soleil Mahé, Seychelles Jungle and boulders tumble down a hillside and into the small beach and bay of Anse Soleil in the southwest of Mahé.

It’s peaceful, private and a very romantic beach from which to watch the sun set.

An impromptu trip to this off-the-beaten-path Seychelles beach will get the feeling of love flowing. You can enjoy a snack or light lunch from the cafe (no need to rough it), and

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spend an afternoon lazing on the sand. Though this beach is named for the sun, it’s after dark that its magic truly gleams through. Micro-organisms beneath the surface glimmer as you move through the water, surrounding swimmers with a mysterious sub-aquatic glow.

Good to know: The simple café on the beach serves some of the best seafood in the area.

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Anse Source d’Argent La Digue, Seychelles It’s obvious why Anse Source d’Argent has been labeled the world’s most photographed beach. A walking trail, with jungle tumbling down a hill on one side, winds between massive granite boulders to reveal a sandy beach so perfectly white, and with water so exquisitely turquoise, it seems unreal.

Located in La Digue, the third largest island of Seychelles.

It is to the east of Praslin and west of Felicite Island. La Digue

gets its name from one of the ships commandeered by the French explorer Marc-Joseph Marion du Fresne, who visited the island in 1768.

Good to know: There are so many pretty beaches on La Digue, which is easily explored by bicycle. Hire one at the port for Rs 100 (US$7.80) for the day.

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Belle Mare Mauritius

The sunrise from the quiet beach of Belle Mare, on the east coast of Mauritius, is worth the bleary-eyed wake-up call. Although it’s known for its fine white sand, you’re likely to find a secluded space along this barely-developed stretch of beach.

The water is calm and shallow; just what you want for wallowing away lazy days.

Belle Mare also offers the best golf course on the island. There are two coursesone 18 hole, specially made for the guests of the Belle Mare Plage Hotel and another 9 hole with some respectable greens that is going to get you marching with your golfing clubs. Some of the popular hotels are The Residence Mauritius, Beau Rivage Hotel & Villas, Veranda Palmar Beach Hotel and Constance Belle Mare Plage Good to know: To turn the excitement levels up, Waterpark Leisure Village near Belle Mare offers giant chutes.

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Camps Bay South Africa On a summer’s day, you’ll struggle to find a place to lay your towel among all the beautiful bodies lazing about on Camps Bay, probably Cape Town’s most popular beach.

The road next to the beach is lined with cafes and bars, themselves filled with young trendies -- pack your best boardies or bikini. The Clifton beaches, next to Camps Bay, offer more privacy among the boulders.

Good to know: Get even further from the crowds at Blouberg beach, where you can capture spectacular sunsets and take postcard photos of Table Mountain across Table Bay.

Skeleton Coast Namibia There can be few beaches as hauntingly beautiful as Namibia’s Skeleton Coast.

This wide, wild, rugged stretch of beach between the Swakop and Kunene rivers is often shrouded with fog -- the result of the cold air over the Atlantic meeting the warm air of the Namib Desert -- and the beach has become a graveyard for ships that run aground in the shallow, rocky waters.

Good to know: Expect to see lots of seals and marine bird life near the wrecks.

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WELCOME TO THE SUNNY SIDE OF

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Contact us today. South Coast’s longstanding and finest golf & beach resort awaits…

Diani Beach was voted

3rd best in Africa

Bazaruto Mozambique For an idyllic tropical island beach, Bazaruto, the namesake of Bazaruto Archipelago, wins hands-down.

The island’s lazy sand beaches stretch forever into clear turquoise water, before dropping off into the Indian Ocean, and palm trees dangle over the beach creating perfect cocktail-sipping shade.

Situated off Mozambique on the east coast of Africa, The Bazaruto Islands are one of the most spectacular destinations on earth. The Islands offer exclusive accommodation options.

Sunsets, peace and solitude are a reality on the Bazaruto islands, allowing the visitor to choose what or what not to do.

Guests can relax on un spoilt, un crowded, pristine beaches

while for the more active there is excellent bird watching, superb diving and snorkeling as well as excellent fishing. Year round warm tropical climate. An almost untouched paradise on earth, the archipelago has earned its reputation as the ‘Pearl of the Indian Ocean’. Between the islands boats are the only option, on the islands walking is the way to go.The costal area surrounding the Bazaruto Archipelago is world renowned for its superb variety of white sand, alluring golden sunsets and tall palm trees. Enjoy stretches of untouched white sandy beaches and magnificent views.

Good to know: Bazaruto Archipelago is renowned for its diving opportunities.

Coffee Bay Wild Coast, South Africa Coffee Bay on South Africa’s Wild Coast is beautifully wild.

With cliffs that plummet and green hills that roll into the turbulent waters of the Indian Ocean, this is one moody beach that will take your breath away.

Hole In The Wall (eight kilometers up the road from Coffee Bay) is a spectacular rock just out to sea at the mouth of the Mpako River.

Good to know: The best way to see this beautiful stretch of coastline is to walk it.

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Swakopmund Namibia What is a beach if it’s not a playground? Swakompund in Namibia has reinvented itself as an adventure center, with fishing, surfing, kayaking, quad biking and sand boarding The small Namibian city of Swakopmund — known as Swakop to the locals — has a discernible Germanic flavor and design, dating back to Namibia’s colonial days as German Southwest Africa. Today, the trappings of a beach resort are mixed in with that Old World charm. Imagine Bavaria by the sea. There’s even an Oktoberfest.

Swakopmund, relatively undeveloped and off the beaten track until the 1970s, has quietly blossomed. Hollywood has even made an appearance: Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie’s daughter Shiloh was born there in 2006, and the city is a location for the current U.S. remake of the 1960s British television series The Prisoner Good to know: Swakopmund is often described as being more German than Germany -- so eat at the Bavarian-style Swakopmund Brauhaus restaurant.

Loango National Park Gabon The beaches of Loango National Park in Gabon have become famous for their surfing hippos -- but you can also see elephants, buffaloes, gorillas and leopards on the sand.

The uninhabited coastline of the park is more than 100 kilometers long, and offers good sightings of dolphins and

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humpback and killer whales.

Good to know: Your best chance of seeing the surfing hippos is January. From September to May you’re likely to see forest elephants and red forest buffaloes on the beach; October to February is turtle nesting season.

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Africa’s Lost Mecca Despite the fleeting centuries and wear and tear, David Tole Discovers that timbuktu remains one of the world’s most exotic and isolated destinations

T

imbuktu, 20 km north of the River Niger in West African Mali, lies south of the Sahara Desert. It has a population of approximately 55,000 inhabitants.

Timbuktu became a permanent settlement early in the 12th Century. After a shift in trading routes, Timbuktu flourished from the trade in salt, gold, ivory and slaves. It became part of the Mali Empire early in the 14th Century. In the first half of the 15th Century, the Tuareg tribes took control of the city for a short period until the expanding Songhai Empire absorbed the city in 1468. A Moroccan army defeated the Songhai in 1591, and made Timbuktu their capital.

The invaders established a new ruling class, the Arma, who after 1612 became virtually independent of Morocco.

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Right: A Timbuktu citizen shows pages of a manuscript.

“These Manuscripts Are Our Identity”: The Salvation of Timbuktu’s Written Heritage Timbuktu’s citizens put their invaluable manuscripts in boxes, carried them away at night, buried them in the sands of the desert. Most of the ca. 300,000 texts could be saved. UNESCO and other experts share, however, grave concern about the actual and potential loss of Mali’s cultural heritage.

Below: The Sudanic Friday mosque at Djenne, Mali, is one of the continent’s architectural wonders. The protruding logs serve both as decoration and scaffolding for elaborate replastering ceremonies. a period of French rule between the 19th Century, Timbuktu became part of the current Republic of Mali in 1960.

Timbuktu was a center of Islamic scholarship under several African empires, home to the Koranic Sankore 25,000-student university and other madrasas (Islamic schools) that served as educational centers for the teaching of Islam throughout Africa between the 1200s and 1500s. Sacred Muslim texts, in bound editions, were carried great distances to Timbuktu for the use of eminent scholars from Cairo, Baghdad, Persia, and elsewhere who were in residence at the city. The great teachings of Islam, from astronomy and mathematics to medicine and law, were collected and produced here in several hundred thousand manuscripts. Many of them remain, though in precarious condition, to form a priceless written record of African history.

Timbuktu is a United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization World Heritage Site since 1988. It was named as an endangered World Heritage site by UNESCO in 1990. A program was set up to preserve the site and in 2005 it was taken off the list of endangered sites.

The town of Timbuktu has in recent years faced many challenges. In April 2012, Timbuktu was captured from the Malian military by the Tuareg rebels of the National Movement for the Liberation of Azawad (MNLA) and Ansar Dine, a Malian Islamist group which name means ‘Defenders of the Faith’ in Arabic and which was pushing for the imposition of Sharia Law across Mali. Later, the MNLA declared the region independent of Mali as the nation of Azawad although they failed to get international recognition for their efforts.

The French and Malian government troops however later in early January 2013 regained control of Timbuktu from the Islamist rebels.

However before the expulsion from Timbuktu, the Islamists had set about on a campaign of destruction of centuries-old Sufi sites.

Shrines, graves and mausoleums were attacked with pick-axes, shovels and even bulldozers. The bones of Sufi saints were dug up, and the hard-liners tore down a mosque door that locals believed had to stay shut until the end of the world.

The Ansar Dine militants target sites revered by Sufis, a 62

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Sacred Muslim texts, in bound editions, were carried great distances to Timbuktu for the use of eminent scholars from Cairo, Baghdad, Persia, and elsewhere who were in residence at the city

mystical school of popular Islam which honors its saints with ornate shrines. At least half of 16 listed mausoleums in the city have been destroyed, along with a substantial part of the history of Islam in Africa.

Present day Timbuktu struggles to draw tourist revenue and develop tourism in a way that preserves the past—new construction near the mosques has prompted the World Heritage Committee to keep the site under close surveillance. Perched as it is on the edge of the Sahara, relentless encroachment of the desert sands is also a threat to Timbuktu.

It does however, remain a major tourist attraction to both historians and common-folk alike even with its locational remoteness. Desert tours by private companies still command a following from various groups of individuals and corporates. Indigenous Touaregs also provide tour services at reasonable fees.

The drive from Mali’s capital, Bamako, takes 20 hours and much of it is off-road. But a new airport has eased the travel considerably. Several weekly flights now operate to and from Timbuktu Airport from Bamako and Mopti. Access to Timbuktu by public boat service referred to as ‘pinasses’ is also available although the waters are usually only navigable between late July and late November. During tourist season there is usually a sizeable number of people who you can pool together with to hire one of the pinasses. Boat travel to Timbuktu from Mopti takes about 3 days. At night the guides set up camp sites on the shore for rest before continuing with the journey in the morning.

On arrival in Timbuktu navigation around the city can be done using taxis or taking donkey and camel rides.

It is much more adventurous and enjoyable for tourists to however move about on foot as the city itself is not vast. The scenery can be appreciated much more by taking time out to walk around. It takes approximately an hour to get from one end of the city to the other by foot.

The Mosques are definitely a major attraction. There are three main mosques in Timbuktu: the Djingareiber Mosque,

UNESCO world heritage. Sankore Mosque (built in XVTH Century) before the Ansar Dine Islamist destruction.

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The Western explorers such as Alexander Gordan Laing, René Caillié, Heinrich Barth, Oscar Lenz and Berky among the first ones to visit Timbuktu all have old commemorative plaques in their honour on display in the city

Traders at Grand marché market

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a world heritage site, which is probably the largest and most impressive. The Sankoré mosque and the Sidi Yéhia Mosque. All three are within a short walk of each other.

The Timbuktu Museum has an interesting assortment of artifacts and contemporary art pieces.

The Western explorers such as Alexander Gordan Laing, René Caillié, Heinrich Barth, Oscar Lenz and Berky among the first ones to visit Timbuktu all have old commemorative plaques in their honour on display in the city. Their old houses which they built have been preserved by the locals to date though occupied by new owners. However, Heinrich Barth’s house has a museum, a few old photos.

Other attractions include the Grand Marché, a storeyedmarket with stalls and shops. It is possible to get a glimpse of the whole city and part of the desert from the market rooftop. A variety of wares including souvenirs such as Touareg sabres or knives can be purchased at varying rates as well as necklaces, earrings and other artifacts/handicrafts.

Also another site worth seeing is the ‘flame of peace’, a monument erected to commemorate the ceasefire of the

Machero Africa Traveller

Touareg rebellion.

There is a selection of different hotels and accommodation establish- ments one can choose to stay at while visiting Timbuktu. These include the Hotel Hendrina Khan and Hotel Azalai being some of the more high-end ergo more expensive establishments. The Hotel Le Colombe Restaurant, Bd Askia Mohammed are some of the modestly priced establishments and Colomb II, Hotel Campement Bouctou and the Sahara Passion which offer cheaper accommodation..

Would be tourists have to bear scorching temperatures that can rise up to 43 degrees centigrade during the month of May at their highest. The average monthly temperatures however range at around 29 degrees centigrade. Rainfall is mostly sporadic and minimal owing to Timbuktu’s proximity to the Sahara desert.

Despite the fleeting centuries and wear and tear, it remains one of the world’s most exotic and isolated destinations.

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BIRDS OF A FEATHER Within the city of Nairobi is abundant wildlife whose twitter within the Nairobi National Park attracts hundreds of visitors. As ALLAN MASSAWA discovered, this paradise has fascinating birdlife that abounds inside the park.

N

airobi National Park conjures up images of big game with tourists inching closer to take photographs with the city as the backdrop. Not many of them give thought to the beautiful and diverse birdlife inside the park.

Kenya has eleven per cent of the world’s and sixty per cent of East Africa’s bird population, with Nairobi being perfectly situated for bird watching. The city lies between the Aberdares, Mt Kenya and Mt Kilimanjaro and contains six ecological zones that create a perfect climate for birds to thrive.

Few give more than a casual glance to birds while others consider them a nuisance. For Ben Mugambi, however, bird watching is more than a hobby, it is a source of daily bread for his family. The 33-year-old is a tour operator and a guide specialising in bird watching through his small outfit known as Ben’s Ecological Safaris.

On a lazy afternoon, I joined Mugambi in Nairobi National Park where we spent a whole afternoon looking up the trees, combing the bushes and peering into crevices all in an effort to locate and identify as many feathered creatures as possible.

With its prey firmly in sight, a Pied Kingfisher majestically goes in for a fishing dive.

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Below: Bird watching enthusiasts set shop by the roadside to take pictures of birds at the park.

Right: A Bee Eater ruffles its feathers.

As I recall one of our conversations, I can tell you that he is a walking encyclopedia on birds. During a casual chat with him, I quickly take out a pen and notebook so as not to miss any descriptive information from this self-acclaimed bird whisperer.

“You cannot write and enjoy bird watching at the same time. We shall take a break and discuss what we have seen,” he jokes, letting the message sink in. Mugambi reminds me that bird watching requires patience and deep concentration.

One thing that stands out with most bird watchers is the kind of equipment that they carry with them. Apart from having good eyesight, a pair of binoculars is a must for any serious birder. Interestingly, having a pair of binoculars does not guarantee that one will spot birds easily; they must also be used well.

“Some people just take out the binoculars and place them over their eyes and hope to see something but get disappointed. Binoculars must be adjusted properly to suit ones eyesight since there are different settings for people who wear eyeglasses and those who don’t,” says Mugambi as he demonstrates how such settings are done.

I learn that one should actually spot the bird first with the eyes and then use binoculars to magnify the bird for closer scrutiny.

Today, Mugambi can easily identify 800 out of 1,100 bird species found in Kenya. As we speak, he notices a small bird about 20 metres away.

“That is the Little Bee Eater, which has some small bristles in the mouth that can sense a bee hovering nearby. It is a very intelligent bird that knows how to remove the bee sting by rubbing the insect against a tree before swallowing,” 68

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he explains Near a dam, the vehicle comes to a sudden stop and we discover some bird activity that would normally go unnoticed by a casual observer. A Pied Kingfisher is majestically hovering over the water in readiness for a fishing dive. A hammerkop, aptly named after its hammer shaped head, keeps vigil near the water’s edge looking for some wandering frogs. I also get to know the name of a bird regular in our backyard; the white-eyed Slaty Flycatcher.

On a nearby tree, an Augar Buzzard, completely camouflaged by the brown tree trunk, watches the activities below with keen interest. This big bird of prey can actually detect a small trail left by a rodent and follow it up to the small creature’s hideout.

We take a deserved break at the Impala Lookout where we literally have a bird’s eye view of the park. It is time to catch up with Mugambi’s ever captivating narration on birdlife. “What makes a good bird watcher?” I ask him as we sip a cup of coffee.

“Like a detective who looks for a variety of clues in order to nail down a suspect, a serious birder must know the common habitat of a certain bird as well as its behaviour, such as flight pattern and the distinctive call. The size, shape and colour patterns of the bird helps one identify the bird and place it in the right category,” he reveals.

“Owing to his mastery of bird behaviour, serious bird watchers from around the world come to him seeking his help in searching and identifying the avian creatures.

“Some foreign visitors come to me with a list of birds they want see. I must satisfy their curiosity knowing they have sacrificed a lot of money and time to seek my ser-

A Hammerkop with a fish caught in its beak.

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Three Elands and two Gray Crowned Cranes at the park. Below: Mugambi gets a closer look after spotting a bird in the trees.

vices. I even had to go for voice projection lessons so as to improve my narrative qualities.”

To assist him in the search, Mugambi carries a small recorder with a variety of bird calls that he uses to lure certain birds that try to play hard to get.

“I play the voice recording if I know that a certain bird is in the vicinity. The bird interprets the call as coming from another bird, perhaps a female of the same species, and comes closer to the voice only to learn too late that it has been duped,” says Mugambi as we watch a Baglafetch Weaver bird that has been fooled by one such recorded call.

Mugambi and his sort are becoming a worried lot as the drastic loss of bird habitat in East Africa continues to cast a dark shadow.

“Population increase means more and more land is now being used for food production with farmers using pesticides that are then ingested by birds with grave consequences.

The artificial magnetic fields created by the many telephone boosters also confuse the homing instincts of migratory birds. There is also the age old custom where some birds such as owls are killed by some communities who feel they bring about bad omens.”

Despite the challenges, Mugambi is not about to hang up his binoculars yet, noting that he would rather have birds than dogs for security. “Birds are able to make enough noise and warn me of danger without being compromised. They also feed on certain dangerous creatures like spiders and other insects that harm our crops.”

As we leave the park, he receives a call from a group of tourists who have just checked into their hotel room and would like to have him as their guide to bird watching.

I cannot help but wonder how the abundant birdlife that most of us take for granted has made someone’s career so colourful.

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An Augur buzzard gliding in the air

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Opposite page: a Himba woman in Kaokoland Namibia. The hair dressing of the Himba women has a special signification. Here, the hat in goat leather (erembe) on her head says that this woman is married.

A WIndow to THE PAST Proud yet friendly Himba are noted for their unusual sculptural beauty though they seem to be forgotten by the rest of the world, but this is only as a result of their extreme isolation and conservative way of life. They happily cling to their traditions, living and dressing according to ancient customs while dwelling in scattered settlements throughout Kaokoland.

E

arly in 16th century, a little unknown Bantu tribe of the Herero (Otjiherero) is believed to have migrated from the great lake region East of Africa to what is now modern day Namibia.

They moved down along the Kunene River and settled in the hills on both sides of the valley.

Unlike most Bantus who tend to be subsistence farmers, the Herero, having acquired domesticated cattle and pastoral techniques from the Cushitic tribes they had interacted with back in the East, settled here and established themselves as Herdsmen.

For centuries they lived in peace, keeping the memories of their ancestors alive in praise songs, but only until the close of the 18th Century. Everything changed in the beginning of the 19th century when another pastoral tribe, the Nama, started arriving from the south. The Nama began displacing the Herero and this led to bitter warfare between the two that lasted a greater part of the 19th Century. The Nama raided most of their cattle and this caused a substantial group of Herero to flee across the Angolan Border.

There, these Herero were renamed “Ovahimba” which means “beggar” in the local Ngambwe language, due to their lack of material wealth and refugee status. But the estimated 20,000 to 50,000 Himba, long among Africa’s most prosperous herders, were resilient. They joined with the Portuguese military and formed their own armies of raiders. The 1915 defeat of the Germans by the South Africans further encouraged their return to Kaokalnd – their ancestral home. Starting in the 1920s, the prominent warrior Vita led them back to Kaokoland and reclaimed most of their cattle

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from the marauding ethnic groups from the south.

After the First World War the South West Africa had been placed under the administration of South Africa. The newly mandated South African authorities classified the area a tribal reserve, obliging Settler families to repatriate their cattle to the south. This reinforcement of borders was to create a frontier between the tribal reserves and the commercial cattle farming zone to avoid the spreading of disease, a measure that prohibited any commercial exchange and movement between the Ovahimba and the exterior world.

By 1927, the Ovahimba constituted the dominant group in Kaokoland. Modeled on the ovahona system (rich and powerful men), the South African administration appointed chiefs to create a system of indirect control. In an inspection report on the Kaokoveld Nature Reserve, dated October 10, 1949, an Ovahimba chief is quoted: “We are in difficulty. We are crying. We are imprisoned. We do not know why we are locked up. We are in a prison. We do not have a place to live…”

And that wasn’t the end of their hardship. Just recently, in the 1980s it appeared the Himba way of life was coming to a close. A severe drought killed 90% of their cattle, the center of their economy and identity. Desperate for cash, a number of men joined South Africa’s army in its fight against guerrillas seeking Namibian independence. Many gave up their herds, unable to feed themselves, they became refugees in the town of Opuwo living in slums on international relief.

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Facing page, Clockwise: A young Himba girl standing outside a traditional himba mud hut. A Himba woman beautifully adorned in jewelery and red ochre. The famed Epupa falls

The Kaokoland Province in Northwestern Namibia holds a munificence of stark and rugged beauty. Bordering on the high Vomboland plateau in the east, the landscape gently declines six thousand feet in elevation, reaching the towering sand dunes of the northern Namib Desert as the Atlantic Ocean laps at their ever shifting foundation on the skeleton coast.

with international activists, helped block a proposed hydro-electric dam that would have flooded ancestral lands along the Kunene River.

Since then, the Himba lived largely unaffected by modern technology and market systems. Cattle continued to be favored as a means of currency, and daily life continues to revolve around tending to stock and other household duties.

Kaokoland The Kaokoland Province in Northwestern Namibia holds a munificence of stark and rugged beauty. Bordering on the high Vomboland plateau in the east, the landscape gently declines six thousand feet in elevation, reaching the towering sand dunes of the northern Namib Desert as the Atlantic Ocean laps at their ever shifting foundation on the skeleton coast.

The climate is hot and dry, and many regions receive fewer than 3 inches of rainfall in a good year. Central kaokoland is hilly and broken, a vast conglomeration of hills and valleys carpeted in a variety of thorny grasses, bushes, and trees. From the air, the texture of central Kaokoland resembles a lattice work, as mountain tentacles stretch from east to west creating valleys of about twelve miles in length and perhaps four or five in width.

Kaokoland is one of the last remaining wilderness areas in Southern Africa. It is a world of incredible mountain scenery, a refuge for the rare desert dwelling elephant, black rhino and giraffe and the home of the Himba people. For generations, they have grazed their animals, planted their maize, and endured the tempests of human life.

Although it is harsh and offers little respite at midday, the rugged landscape is especially attractive during the early morning and late afternoon when it is transformed into softly glowing pastel shades. The topography in the south of the area is characterized by rugged mountains which are dissected by numerous watercourses, but north of the Hoarusib River the scenery is dominated by table-top kopjes. Still further north, the Otjihipa Mountains rise abruptly above the Namib floor to form the eastern boundary of the Marienfluss, while the west of the valley is defined by the Hartmann Mountains. The Marienfluss valley is very scenic and relatively greener than the Hartmann’s valley which is closer to the Atlantic and yet much more arid. This aura of

mystery largely due to the dense coastal fog and cold sea breezes caused by the cold Benguela Ocean current from the Arctic.

In terms of accessibility and infrastructure, Kaokoland is really in the back and beyond, silent, huge and for the most part empty. With an estimated 20,000 Himba living here, Kaokoland has a population density of only one person to every two square kilometers which is about a quarter of the national average.

Kaokoland is bordered on the south the Hoanib River and on the north the Kunene River which also forms Namibia’s border with Angola. Mountain ranges near the Kunene River are rugged and impressive with the highest point located at 2039m in the Baynes Mountains. It is an oddity that a river runs through this arid landscape with the only real waterfalls in Namibia along its course. The Ruacana Falls are 120m high and 700m wide in full flood.

Also along the Kunene River you’ll find the Epupa falls, about 135km downstream from the Ruacana falls. The name Epupa is a Herero word and means noise; he who makes noise or that which makes noise. Epupa is formed by a series of cascades that drop a total of 60m over a distance of about 1.5km and at one point reaches a total width of 500m.

The area surrounding Epupa Falls has richly coloured rock walls, a variety of trees including the wild fig, baobabs and waving makalani palms. Spectacular sunsets and perennially flowing waters means that the area offers much to see and experience.

In terms of wildlife Kaokoland is probably most famous for its desert elephant. Between 1977 and 1982, the crippling drought gripped the area and wiped out large numbers of game. However, the biggest threat came from poachers, and between 1970 and 1983 the number of desert dwelling elephants in the Kaokoveld declined from an estimated 300 to 70. Although the desert dwelling elephants are not a separate sub species they have adapted to their extremely harsh environment, the only other place in Africa where elephants live in such harsh conditions is in Mali on the edge of the Sahara Desert. The secret of their survival in the arid wastelands is an intimate knowledge of their limited food and water resources. During the dry periods they will even dig deep holes to obtain water and April - June 2013 Machero Africa Traveller

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The Kunene River flows from the Angola highlands south to the border with Namibia. It then flows west along the border until it reaches the Atlantic Ocean. It is one of the few perennial rivers in the region. The Himba believe that their ancestors followed this River south when they first migrated from the East of Africa before settling in Kaokoland in the 16th Century

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in this way also provide other animals with water. Unlike other elephants which drink daily, these ones have been observed going without water for up to four days. The black rhino of Kaokoland suffered a fate similar to that of the elephants and by 1983 the population in the east had been exterminated, while only a few individuals survived in the extreme western parts of Kaokoland which makes them a very rare sight. Nowadays, there are a few organisations doing their best to ensure the continuing existence of these rare and unique animals.

Birds found here include the rare Rufoustailed palm thrush, as well as the Bee eater, the African fish eagle and Kingfishers ranging from giant to the tiny Malachite Kingfisher The Himba Proud yet friendly Himba are noted for their unusual sculptural beauty though they seem to be forgotten by the rest of the world, but this is only as a result of their extreme isolation and conservative way of life. They happily cling to their traditions, living and dressing according to ancient customs while dwelling in scattered settlements throughout Kaokoland.

They are a tall, slender and statuesque people. The women and girls especially are noted for their unusual sculptural beauty, enhanced by intricate hairstyles and traditional adornments. Both men and women wear large numbers of necklaces, arm bracelets, sometimes almost like sleeves, made from ostrich eggshell beads, grass, cloth and copper and weighing as much as 1 kg, as well as bracelets around

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the legs. Iron oxide powder with its shiny effect is worn as a cosmetic like western glitter. The large white shell worn on the breast by Himba is called the ohumba.

Striking to look at, the women cover their shapely figures with nothing other than a soft goat-skin skirt around their waists and rub their bodies with mixture of rancid butter, ash and ochre to protect them from the harsh desert climate. The paste (Otjize) is often mixed with the aromatic resin of the Omuzumba shrub to give the paste a sweet smell. As well as protection from the sun, the deep red color is a highly desirable look in the Himba culture. It is certainly eye-catching, very beautiful and gives their appearance a rich red color.

The Himba use the same paste in their hair which is long and plaited into intricate designs.

Hairstyles indicate age and social status. A young girl typically has two plaits (ozondato) of braided hair, the form being determined by the oruzo membership (patrilineal descent group). Just before puberty, the girls wear long plaitlets worn loose around the head – it can take on various forms and sometimes wigs are worn over it. When the girls have completed their puberty ceremony, the so-called ekori festival takes place and she receives the ekori headdress made from tanned sheep’s or goatskin with three leaf-shaped points, often decorated with iron beads.

Girls belonging to some groups have their hair shaved off except for a small bush on top of the head. The shavedoff hair is then used to make plaits, which are woven into the remaining hair and hang down over the face. When she has been married for about a year or has had a child,

Below, An elderly Himba Male

Striking to look at, the women cover their shapely figures with nothing other than a soft goat-skin skirt around their waists and rub their bodies with mixture of rancid butter, ash and ochre to protect them from the harsh desert climate.

Left: A young Himba girl carries a baby on her back. Below: Inside of a Himba hut. The women are storing their belongings along the walls.

Right:A young Himba male. Himba males wear different hairstyles, such as the single plait, the ondato, worn by young boys down the back of their heads

the ekori head-dress is replaced by the erembe headdress made from the skin of a goat’s head and fastened under the hair at the back of the head by two thongs. From then on the ekori is worn only during ceremonial occasions.

Himba males also wear different hairstyles, such as the single plait, the ondato, worn by young boys down the back of their heads, two plaits, ozondato, worn by Himba men of marriageable age and the ombwiya headdress, a scarf made from fabric covering the hair and decorated with an ornamental band.

The homes of the Himba are simple cone shaped structures of saplings bound together with palm leaves and plastered with mud and dung. During the course of a year the family will move from one home to another in search of grazing for the animals. For this reason it is important not to take anything from a Himba hut even if it appears abandoned.

For the most part, the modern world hasn’t yet intruded on their traditional way of life which is why (ironically) more and more tourists are keen to visit the Himba. That is not to say that the Himba are a relic of the past but rather, they have held on to their traditions and adapted to outside influences in their own way.

In everyday life the Himba people worship the God Mukuru and their ancestors. Aside from their traditional appearance, a little known phenomenon with which the Himba’s are associated with is the sacred fire, the ‘okuruwo’. The sacred fire represents the ancestors of the Himba, and is kept burning 24 hours a day. The Himba believe in a God who created everything, but this God is very remote, and communication with this God only takes place through the spirits of male ancestors. The male leader, the headman, of the Himba clan sits by the fire during the day and talks to the ancestors about problems facing the community.

The Himba day starts early. Women arise before or at dawn and apply otjize. Before the cattle are herded out to graze, they are milked by the women. Young men often set up separate, temporary villages and move around with the cattle, leaving the women, children and older men at the main homestead.

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occupy themselves with cooking, gardening, milking cattle, looking after children, caring for livestock in the kraal and making clothes, jewelry and the traditional ochre and butter paste, otjize. Flour is made from maize and butter is churned. Wood has to be collected, and water has to be carried from wells. The children help with the tasks.

Their diet consists mainly of a porridge made from maize and milk. Milk left over after making the porridge is used to make butter which is churned in gourds. Although meat is a part of the Himba diet, beef is consumed sparingly as cattle represent the wealth of a clan. Meat from small stock such as goats is more likely to be found in the Himba meal.

The Himba homestead is a family unit, overseen by the headman who is usually a grandfather and the oldest male in the village. They practice bilateral descent, with wealth being inherited mainly through the maternal line (typically from the maternal uncle to a nephew) while status inheritance is patrilineal. Every person is a member of both their maternal (eanda) and paternal (oruzo) clans. This is a relatively rare system of social structure, found most commonly in severe environments.

The Himba headman’s authority is identified by an ‘erenge’ bracelet. He oversees births, marriages and coming of age ceremonies. He performs the various ceremonies at the sacred fire, involving the spirits of the ancestors in the daily life of the village. He is also responsible for the rules of the tribe. If a crime is committed or a property dispute arises, he will be called to give judgment. If his judgment is not accepted, a number of headmen will meet to discuss the matter.

All Himba marriages are arranged by kin and a small bride price is. However, in some cases couples fall in love and then go to their families for permission to marry. These “love matches” are more typical in second and third marriages than in primary ones. Child marriage is practiced, where a very young girl (sometimes an infant) is betrothed to an adult man. Although a marriage ceremony takes place, the child rarely goes to live with her husband and the marriage is never consummated until the girl reaches menarche.

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Himba Myths So long ago, the rope that hung from heaven to earth and allowed the original man and woman to visit Mukuru at will, was severed. The woman was milling grain in a mortar with a long handled pestle. Carelessly, she struck Mukuru in the groin as he was descending the rope to visit his children. The woman’s attention was so fixed on delighting her stomach that her appointment with Mukuru was forgotten.

“If human beings are so busy with trifling matters,” thought Mukuru, they have no use for me. Let them find me with great effort.” he ascended into the heavens and cut the rope, and the separation of heaven from earth has brought us unremitting toil, hunger, sickness, and death. We live because Mukuru gives life, and when we die we are not lost.

We become ancestors to a new generation of kinsmen who depend on our blessing every day of their lives.

1Praise of Mbeti Hill symbolizing the mythical origin of Otjiherero speaking peoples: “Okarundu kaMbeti kaHamujemua ku ka umb’ ombunda mezevu rongandu ya Muakapumba. Ku ke rip eke oongungayou.” In English: The hills of Mbeti that throws its behind into the deep water of the crocodile of Muakapumba. That is standing alone like a lonely elephant.

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What the future holds….

The “traditional lifestyle” of the Ovahimba will probably change, even if the economy of the Kaokoveld, based on raising cattle, will be maintained for time to come. At present, the number of head of cattle has been restored to what it was before the recent years of drought. In this pastoral society, the cult of the cattle constitutes the dominant cultural discourse. The Ovahimba say that if someone has no cattle, and a member of his family dies, he is not able to sacrifice an animal in the honor of the deceased. The Ovahimba grow maize but they say: “You cannot drive maize,” - as you can drive cattle.

The notion of Ovahimba identity is to a degree at least a result of the colonial racial segregation system. Before independence in 1990, historical writing was controlled

by South African government restrictions. However, throughout the colonial period, Namibians continued to transmit the memory of their ancestors in the form of oral legends, praise songs and sung autobiographies. The “myth of Kaoko” has continued to inform discourse on this people, be it anthropological or other. There is a tendency to represent the material culture of the Ovahimba whose tangible culture constitutes a dimension of spectacular exoticism.

So although the two parks in the valley do offer the visitor a limited wildlife experience they are not the main reason why people tend to visit the area.

Clockwise from Left: Himba girls put on a show for visiting tourists.

A young Himba girl at puberty.

A woman grind red ochre to be use in the Otjize Paste-a mix of rancid butter, ash and ochre to protect them from the harsh desert climate

Where does the future of the Ovahimba lie? Today, the Ovahimba, who have preserved their traditions for many centuries, living retrenched in arid and mountainous regions, have come to a crossroads between their very ancient culture and growing urbanism.

While it is not possible to dissociate the Ovahimba cultural heritage from the historical and current social context, it is however important to document and preserve the legends, stories and myths that constitute their thought system and a trace of their material culture which is being transformed by the inevitable and not always detrimental processes of development, urbanization and Westernization.

Whatever choices they are going to make or whatever choices will be imposed on them by progress and development, their culture will undergo major changes in the years to come.

VISIT Attractions

Mauritius The best African destination you know almost nothing about

M

auritius is a model of true democracy for every African country. It’s also one of Africa’s great destinations, located in the middle of the turquoise Indian Ocean, inhabited by a multi-racial, peaceful people, covered in great golf courses, offering myriad water sports, mountain trekking, hunting, birdwatching, luxurious resorts, an old colonial capital, great food, three- and four-star hotels, one of the world’s best botanical gardens, good nightlife, beautiful beach bars, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, one of the oldest horseracing tracks in the world, great sightseeing … but we’ll get to that in a little while.

First, I want to argue on behalf of the title of this article; that this tropical island 2,000 miles off the southeast coast of Africa does indeed provide a template for a model African travel destination.

When your island is surrounded by perfect white sand beaches, themselves surrounded by the stunning blue Indian Ocean, and the center of the island contains mountains and breathtaking scenery, plus almost year-round sunshine, it’s difficult to be miserable.

Since gaining independence in 1968 there’s never

been a coup, or military or populist uprising of any kind on this small Indian Ocean island (just more than 2,000 square kilometres in size).

The population of almost 1.3 million is 68 percent Indian, but also comprises Creole, Chinese, French, plus a smattering of English and South Africans.

Between them they speak English (the country’s official language), French, Mauritian Creole, Hindi, Tamil, Marathi, Bhojpuri and Hakka.

Often, the sound of the native Sega music (an Indian Ocean version of calypso) inspires dancing and laughing on the beaches all night.

Participants refresh themselves with the local ice cold Phoenix beer, the occasional Green Island rum and Coke and barbecue, freshly caught seafood like snapper, dorado, prawns, octopus and lobster.

Yet any holiday on Mauritius needn’t be a laze on the sand.

For sightseers there are two UNESCO World Heritage Sites (Aapravasi Ghat and Le Morne Cultural Landscape), the colonial capital of Port Louis, one of the oldest horseracing tracks in the world at Champs de Mars, one of the world’s best botanical gardens

at Pamplemousses, the Blue Penny Museum (home to one of the world’s rarest stamps), the Black River Gorges National Park and the Casela Wildlife Park, where you can walk with lion cubs.

The cuisine of Mauritius is a blend of Creole, Chinese, European and Indian. It’s common for a combination of cuisines to form part of the same meal.

Strong ties with the French (who ruled the island from 1710-1810) has meant that even today French dishes such as bouillon, tuna salad, daube and coq au vin are popular, while Indian workers who migrated to Mauritius brought their cuisine with them, making curries, chutney, rougaille (tomato paste that’s popular especially when served with fish) and pickles popular especially when given a unique Mauritian flavor.

The arrival of Chinese migrants at the end of the 19th century led to rice becoming part of the staple diet of the island and noodles, both steamed and fried, became common.

Chinese appetizers such as crispy chicken and crispy squid have also become part of the Mauritian diet.

Land sports: Any resort hotel will also have its own people to provide you with almost any land sport you want. Otherwise, companies such as Yemaya (www.yemayaadventures. com) provide mountain biking, hiking, kayaking and cycling.

Mauritius Horse Trails (www. mauritiushorsetrails.com) can take you on some wonderful horseback tours of the island.

Golf: There are seven great golf courses on the island, the best being Golf du Chateau and the Four Seasons Golf Club at Anahita, plus several nine-hole courses.

For further details visit www.tourismmauritius.mu/Golf-courses.

Deep sea fishing: Mauritius has some of the best deep sea fishing in the world and the Marlin World Cup

(www.marlinworldcup.com) is held here every February/March.

Best expert charters on the island are run by JP Henry Charters Ltd (www. blackriver-mauritius.com).

Mountain trekking: There are well more than 20 great mountains to trek up. The best people to guide you here are YANATURE (www.trekkingilemaurice.com).

Watersports: Any resort hotel will have its own people to provide you with any watersport you can think of.

Any village on the coast will likewise have several companies to do the same. Just ask and any Mauritian will tell you where to go.

Shopping: Local arts and crafts stores can be found in most villages, as well as designer factory outlets that sell Ralph Lauren and other brands at a fraction of European prices.

And there’s the magnificent shopping mall at Caudan Waterfront (www.

caudan.com) in Port Louis.

eating experience.

WHERE TO EAT Le Château de Bel Ombre: Located in the south of the island this lovingly restored 19th-century colonial mansion is the best restaurant on Mauritius.

In an elegant setting, à la carte fusion food is served, while on Saturday, Mauritian night, there’s the chance to try authentic island dishes.

Domaine de Bel Ombre, Southwest Mauritius; +230 605 5000; www.domainedebelombre. mu/en/chateau.html Le Barachois: Part of a small guest house this thatched stone restaurant, specializing in freshly caught giant shrimp, lobster and crab, has a daily changing menu.

The food is served on wooden tables right beside the sea -- a true Mauritian

Anse Bambous, Vieux Grand Port, Southeast Mauritius; +230 750 9407; www.le-barachois.com Domaine Anna: This spectacular Chinese restaurant is set in the midst of sugar cane fields.

At night guests are greeted with lit torches along the driveway and eat in individual gazebos set on man made lakes within tropical gardens in this palatial restaurant.

All the vegetables are grown locally and there’s live music and dancing at weekends.

WHERE TO STAY Mauritius is filled with luxurious five-star hotels and resorts, plus plenty of budget options. For a list of accommodations on Mauritius visit www.mauritius.net.

Meanwhile here are a few of my favorites.

Lakaz Chamarel: Mauritius has numerous small boutique hotels well off the beaten track and, for my money, this is the best.

It’s located high in the Chamarel hills in the south of the island and has 20 luxurious guest rooms and a superb restaurant.

With rates starting at around MUR4,700 (US$160) a night it’s not cheap by island standards, but its tropical surroundings are worth it.

Piton Canot, Chamarel; +230 483 5240; www.lakazchamarel.com

MAURITIUS... Top sight The Seven Coloured Earth(s) Coloured Earth(s) (Terres des Sept Couleurs in French) are a geological formation and prominent tourist attraction found in the Chamarel plain, in the Rivière Noire District of south-western Mauritius. It is a relatively small area of sand dunes comprising sand of seven distinct colours (approximately red, brown, violet, green, blue, purple and yellow). The main feature of the place is that since these differently coloured sands spontaneously settle in different layers, dunes acquire a surrealistic, striped colouring. This phenomenon can also be observed, on a smaller scale, if one takes a handful of sands of different colours and mixes them together, as they’ll eventually separate into a layered spectrum. Another interesting feature of Chamarel’s Coloured Earths is that the dunes seemingly never erode, in spite of Mauritius’ torrential, tropical rains.

The sands have formed from the decomposition of volcanic rock (basalt) gullies into clay, further transformed into ferralitic soil by total hydrolysis; the two main elements of the resulting soil, iron and aluminium, are responsible for red/anthracite and blue/purplish colours respectively. The different shades of colour are believed to be a consequence of the molten volcanic rock cooling down at different external temperatures (hence rates), but the causes of their consistent spontaneous separation are yet to be fully clarified.

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Le Touessrok: This great place is on the island’s east coast, with luxurious rooms, most with Indian Ocean views, a great golf course on its own island, regular shows at night and a wonderful selection of restaurants of which ThreeNine-Eight, serving cuisine from nine different countries, is unparalleled.

Trou d’Eau Douce, Flacq; +230 402 7700; www.letouessrokresort.com Villa Paul Et Virginie Hotel: Located in Flic en Flac on the west coast, the Villa Paul et Virginie is a beautiful hotel for those on a tight budget.

Just two minutes walk from the beach and serving excellent food, this 12room hotel has an outside bar covered with a huge honeysuckle plant that provides welcome shade from the noonday sun.

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