Easy Tasty Italian

EasyTastyItalianBlad

17/3/09

12:46

Page 2

A COOKBOOK WITH DRIVE

ÂŁ20.00 Hardback 978 184400 755 4 192pp 248 x 187mm 10,000 words including over 100 recipes 50 colour photographs and 50 illustrations Publication October 2009 Quadrille Publishing Limited Alhambra House 27-31 Charing Cross Road London WC2H 0LS www.quadrille.co.uk

ASY T STY I ALIAN Laura Santtini

EasyTastyItalianBlad

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Page 5

CO N T E N T S FOREWORD by Gillian Riley, author of THE INTRODUCTION Hug me, I’m half Italian 8

COOK’S INGREDIENTS: THE TOOLS FOR TRANSFORMATION 10 kitchen equipment 12 essential larders 14

OXFORD COMPANION TO ITALIAN FOOD

6

TEN QUICK & TASTY ANTIPASTI 44

ELEMENTAL COOKING: 100 ITALIAN DISHES YOU NEED TO COOK BEFORE YOU DIET 50 AIR

BASIC PROCEDURES & PREPARATIONS 16 pounding: pestos 18 chopping: relishes and salsas 20 slicing: trifolati 22 beating: dressings 24 whipping: compound butters 26

‘I was raw’ 52

‘I was cooked’ 66 boiling: 68 absorption & reduction 96 poaching 110 bagno-maria 116

WAT E R

‘I was burned’ 120 searing 122 grilling 130 frying 138 in umido 146 roasting & baking 150

FIRE

ALCHEMISTICO: CONCENTRATED FLAVOUR BOMBS 28 marinades 30 rubs 32 crumbs & crusts 40 dusts 34 pastes 38 elixirs 42

‘I am tasty’ 160 vegetables 166

E A RT H

TEN QUICK & EASY DESSERTS 170

THE FIFTH ELEMENT spirit & ether 180 EPILOGUE theories of relativity 186

r

INDEX 188 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

192

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ASY T STY I ALIAN

Laura Santtini is a writer who cooks. Much of her passion for food came from her Italian grandmother, as well as her parents, founders of the renowned Italian restaurant Santini in London’s Belgravia. Famed for being Frank Sinatra’s all-time favourite, Santini celebrates its quarter century this year and remains synonymous with authentic Italian food.

Laura’s early career was in PR, with Lynne Franks, then at MTV Europe.

Laura then moved to Milan where she was a freelance event producer.

In 2002 she returned to relaunch Santini, following her father’s retirement. She is now also pursuing her writing, television and food consultancy work.

combines the practical, the magical and the delicious in a book on everyday Italian cookery with a unique voice.

• Discover three very different larders: the Italian, the alchemical and the umami, and learn to use these ingredients to create your own flavours and dishes.

• Follow the principles of preparation and apply them to cooking methods that are simply and clearly described without fuss or mystery.

• Enjoy a repertoire of simple base recipes for all the Italian classics, along with the added flavouring combinations that will transform them.

• Master the classics then taste the difference. Learn the rules then break them.

This book has its feet in the supermarket and its head in the stars. Learn from it how to create simple dishes that are out of this world.

r 4

EasyTastyItalianBlad

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Page 4

ASY T STY I ALIAN

Laura Santtini is a writer who cooks. Much of her passion for food came from her Italian grandmother, as well as her parents, founders of the renowned Italian restaurant Santini in London’s Belgravia. Famed for being Frank Sinatra’s all-time favourite, Santini celebrates its quarter century this year and remains synonymous with authentic Italian food.

Laura’s early career was in PR, with Lynne Franks, then at MTV Europe.

Laura then moved to Milan where she was a freelance event producer.

In 2002 she returned to relaunch Santini, following her father’s retirement. She is now also pursuing her writing, television and food consultancy work.

combines the practical, the magical and the delicious in a book on everyday Italian cookery with a unique voice.

• Discover three very different larders: the Italian, the alchemical and the umami, and learn to use these ingredients to create your own flavours and dishes.

• Follow the principles of preparation and apply them to cooking methods that are simply and clearly described without fuss or mystery.

• Enjoy a repertoire of simple base recipes for all the Italian classics, along with the added flavouring combinations that will transform them.

• Master the classics then taste the difference. Learn the rules then break them.

This book has its feet in the supermarket and its head in the stars. Learn from it how to create simple dishes that are out of this world.

r 4

EasyTastyItalianBlad

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PA S T E S

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Page 6

These pastes are designed to be concentrated flavour bombs or taste explosions. Packed with umami and umami-enhancing flavours, they add instant U-factor to almost anything. Try bombing everyday dishes, such as stews, soups, risottos, pastas, gravies and sauces, with these intense flavours. I have put some suggestions for good combinations, but please experiment. There are endless possibilities, since there are surprisingly very few flavour boundaries, and you will soon know when you have crossed one!

1 PA R M E S A N A N D P R O S C I U T T O 65g lean prosciutto di Parma 45g Parmigiano Reggiano (Parmesan) 2 long strips of lemon zest (yellow part only) 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 5g flat-leaf parsley leaves splash of warm water to blend

8

Mix all ingredients using a hand blender. Store in the fridge, covered in oil, for up to 3 days.

CHICKEN SOUP, PAGE

86.

r

5

1

7

3

2 TRUFFLE AND ANCHOVY 2 jars of anchovies in oil, drained Truffle oil Blend the anchovies into a paste with the truffle oil.

This is truly delicious spread on sourdough bread with thick creamy unsalted butter.

SCRAMBLED EGGS AND PLAIN PASTA , PAGE

89

3 T O M AT O , PEPPER, ORANGE & CINNAMON 1 romano pepper or red pepper 40g concentrated tomato purée 1/2-1 teaspoon harissa 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 2 long strips of orange zest (yellow part only) 1 anchovy fillet (optional) 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil Bake the pepper on a baking tray in an oven preheated to 230°C/gas 8 until soft. Skin and, when cool, remove the core and seeds. Proceed as above.

4 GARLIC, SWEET BASIL & ALMOND

5 BL ACK OLIVE , C A P E R & WA L N U T

25g toasted whole blanched almonds 15g fresh basil leaves 1 pinch of salt flakes 1/2 garlic clove 1/2 tsp fennel seeds 1/2 tsp lemon zest and juice 11/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Toast the nuts as above, then mix with the other ingredients.

25g walnuts 75g pitted black olives (Taggiasche) 20g rinsed capers 1/2 garlic clove 1tsp truffle oil Toast the walnuts on a baking tray in an oven preheated to 180°C/gas 4 until nicely coloured. Always remove one shade before, since they continue cooking after leaving the oven. Therefore transfer to a cold plate to cool. Mix all ingredients as above.

RISOTTO PARMIGIANA , PAGE

94

GARIBALDI ’ S FISH SOUP, PAGE

9

ARTICHOKE TRIFOLATA , PAGE

6 CHILLI C H O C O L AT E W I N E

2

6

4

72

50g ground Venezuelan black chocolate, 100% cacao 1/2 teaspoon chilli flakes 1 tablespoon olive oil 11/2 tablespoon full-bodied red wine ? teaspoon balsamic vinegar DOP 10ml verjuice 1/2 teaspoon Mexican cacao powder Blend together, adding more oil or wine if too thick.

This is a very thick paste to be used in rich stews and game dishes and ideal for mixing with pan juices for a robust and glossy gravy.

7 ROSE , P O M E G R A N AT E , MINT & LIME 15g fresh mint leaves finely grated zest and juice of 1/2 lime 2g dried rose petals 2g dried or fresh pomegranate seeds 1/2 teaspoon pomegranate molasses 1/2 teaspoon pink peppercorns 25g shelled pistachio nuts 5g feta cheese 1 tablespoon olive oil pinch of salt flakes ground black pepper

106

8 PORCINI & TRUFFLE

9 A RT I C H O K E & B AY

15g dried porcini mushrooms 5 anchovy fillets, rinsed and dried truffle oil, to blend salt flakes Rehydrate the mushrooms as per instructions. Drain (the liquid can be kept to flavour something else). Blend with the anchovies and truffle oil to a thick paste. Season to taste.

85g artichoke pieces in olive oil (drained) 2-3 bay leaves 1/2 clove garlic pinch of salt flakes ground black pepper 1 tbsp olive oil

ROBESPIERRE , PAGE

115.

Blend all the ingredients into a paste with the olive oil FISH AND POTATO BAKE , PAGE

89.

Blend together as above.

CHICKEN IN UMIDO ,

RIB OF BEEF AL BAROLO , PAGE

38

PAGE

135

144

39

EasyTastyItalianBlad

17/3/09

PA S T E S

12:47

Page 6

These pastes are designed to be concentrated flavour bombs or taste explosions. Packed with umami and umami-enhancing flavours, they add instant U-factor to almost anything. Try bombing everyday dishes, such as stews, soups, risottos, pastas, gravies and sauces, with these intense flavours. I have put some suggestions for good combinations, but please experiment. There are endless possibilities, since there are surprisingly very few flavour boundaries, and you will soon know when you have crossed one!

1 PA R M E S A N A N D P R O S C I U T T O 65g lean prosciutto di Parma 45g Parmigiano Reggiano (Parmesan) 2 long strips of lemon zest (yellow part only) 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 5g flat-leaf parsley leaves splash of warm water to blend

8

Mix all ingredients using a hand blender. Store in the fridge, covered in oil, for up to 3 days.

CHICKEN SOUP, PAGE

86.

r

5

1

7

3

2 TRUFFLE AND ANCHOVY 2 jars of anchovies in oil, drained Truffle oil Blend the anchovies into a paste with the truffle oil.

This is truly delicious spread on sourdough bread with thick creamy unsalted butter.

SCRAMBLED EGGS AND PLAIN PASTA , PAGE

89

3 T O M AT O , PEPPER, ORANGE & CINNAMON 1 romano pepper or red pepper 40g concentrated tomato purée 1/2-1 teaspoon harissa 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 2 long strips of orange zest (yellow part only) 1 anchovy fillet (optional) 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil Bake the pepper on a baking tray in an oven preheated to 230°C/gas 8 until soft. Skin and, when cool, remove the core and seeds. Proceed as above.

4 GARLIC, SWEET BASIL & ALMOND

5 BL ACK OLIVE , C A P E R & WA L N U T

25g toasted whole blanched almonds 15g fresh basil leaves 1 pinch of salt flakes 1/2 garlic clove 1/2 tsp fennel seeds 1/2 tsp lemon zest and juice 11/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Toast the nuts as above, then mix with the other ingredients.

25g walnuts 75g pitted black olives (Taggiasche) 20g rinsed capers 1/2 garlic clove 1tsp truffle oil Toast the walnuts on a baking tray in an oven preheated to 180°C/gas 4 until nicely coloured. Always remove one shade before, since they continue cooking after leaving the oven. Therefore transfer to a cold plate to cool. Mix all ingredients as above.

RISOTTO PARMIGIANA , PAGE

94

GARIBALDI ’ S FISH SOUP, PAGE

9

ARTICHOKE TRIFOLATA , PAGE

6 CHILLI C H O C O L AT E W I N E

2

6

4

72

50g ground Venezuelan black chocolate, 100% cacao 1/2 teaspoon chilli flakes 1 tablespoon olive oil 11/2 tablespoon full-bodied red wine ? teaspoon balsamic vinegar DOP 10ml verjuice 1/2 teaspoon Mexican cacao powder Blend together, adding more oil or wine if too thick.

This is a very thick paste to be used in rich stews and game dishes and ideal for mixing with pan juices for a robust and glossy gravy.

7 ROSE , P O M E G R A N AT E , MINT & LIME 15g fresh mint leaves finely grated zest and juice of 1/2 lime 2g dried rose petals 2g dried or fresh pomegranate seeds 1/2 teaspoon pomegranate molasses 1/2 teaspoon pink peppercorns 25g shelled pistachio nuts 5g feta cheese 1 tablespoon olive oil pinch of salt flakes ground black pepper

106

8 PORCINI & TRUFFLE

9 A RT I C H O K E & B AY

15g dried porcini mushrooms 5 anchovy fillets, rinsed and dried truffle oil, to blend salt flakes Rehydrate the mushrooms as per instructions. Drain (the liquid can be kept to flavour something else). Blend with the anchovies and truffle oil to a thick paste. Season to taste.

85g artichoke pieces in olive oil (drained) 2-3 bay leaves 1/2 clove garlic pinch of salt flakes ground black pepper 1 tbsp olive oil

ROBESPIERRE , PAGE

115.

Blend all the ingredients into a paste with the olive oil FISH AND POTATO BAKE , PAGE

89.

Blend together as above.

CHICKEN IN UMIDO ,

RIB OF BEEF AL BAROLO , PAGE

38

PAGE

135

144

39

EasyTastyItalianBlad

17/3/09

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Page 8

Named ‘Innocent soup’ by a deep-thinking friend who remarked on the soup’s earnest qualities, this recipe (made here with sweet potato) can be made using almost any vegetable and can be additionally seasoned with appropriate herbs.

For vegetables that do not naturally ‘mush up’ nicely, add one large potato for a smooth finish.

Use white pepper for pale-coloured soups.

INNOCENT SOUP

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and garlic, and cook over a moderate heat until glassy but not browned. Add the sweet potatoes and herbs, and toss with the pan contents.

Just cover with cold water, crumble in the stock cube and some pepper, and bring to the boil. Turn the heat down and simmer until all ingredients are soft and ready to blend. Remove from the heat and blitz with a hand blender until smooth. Adjust the seasoning.

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, peeled and cut into quarters 2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 2kg sweet potatoes, peeled and roughly chopped leaves from 1 sprig of thyme 1 good-quality vegetable stock cube freshly ground salt and black pepper

TRANSFORMATIONS SUGGESTED FLAVOUR BOMB : T O M AT O , P E P P E R O R A N G E A N D C I N N A M O N ( PA G E 29) SUGGESTED TOPPING : C H I L L I L E M O N P R AW N R E L I S H ( PA G E 42)

r OTHER TOP TOPPINGS : LEMON MASCARPONE AND SCORCHED ALMONDS M I X E D S E S A M E A N D S E AW E E D S TA R D U S T

( PA G E 25)

( PA G E 36)

C I A B AT TA C R O U T O N W I T H S P I C Y O R A N G E M AY O N N A I S E A N D G R U Y È R E C H E E S E ( PA G E 41)

70

71

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Page 8

Named ‘Innocent soup’ by a deep-thinking friend who remarked on the soup’s earnest qualities, this recipe (made here with sweet potato) can be made using almost any vegetable and can be additionally seasoned with appropriate herbs.

For vegetables that do not naturally ‘mush up’ nicely, add one large potato for a smooth finish.

Use white pepper for pale-coloured soups.

INNOCENT SOUP

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and garlic, and cook over a moderate heat until glassy but not browned. Add the sweet potatoes and herbs, and toss with the pan contents.

Just cover with cold water, crumble in the stock cube and some pepper, and bring to the boil. Turn the heat down and simmer until all ingredients are soft and ready to blend. Remove from the heat and blitz with a hand blender until smooth. Adjust the seasoning.

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, peeled and cut into quarters 2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 2kg sweet potatoes, peeled and roughly chopped leaves from 1 sprig of thyme 1 good-quality vegetable stock cube freshly ground salt and black pepper

TRANSFORMATIONS SUGGESTED FLAVOUR BOMB : T O M AT O , P E P P E R O R A N G E A N D C I N N A M O N ( PA G E 29) SUGGESTED TOPPING : C H I L L I L E M O N P R AW N R E L I S H ( PA G E 42)

r OTHER TOP TOPPINGS : LEMON MASCARPONE AND SCORCHED ALMONDS M I X E D S E S A M E A N D S E AW E E D S TA R D U S T

( PA G E 25)

( PA G E 36)

C I A B AT TA C R O U T O N W I T H S P I C Y O R A N G E M AY O N N A I S E A N D G R U Y È R E C H E E S E ( PA G E 41)

70

71

Page 10

EDDIE COCHRAN Three Steps To Heaven

12:47

The formula for Heaven's very simple Just follow the rules and you will see And as life travels on And things do go wrong Just follow steps one, two and three

There are three steps to Roll, Wrap and Splash Heaven and once mastered there will be no looking back. This umamifilled notion can apply to almost anything and anyone!

17/3/09

ROLL, WRAP

FISH 4 pieces of skinned fish fillet, each about 150g, such as monkfish, cod loin, sea bass or swordfish

Step 1: ROLL in grated Parmesan

ROLL 1-2 handfuls of grated Parmesan grated zest of 1⁄2 lemon 6 fresh sage leaves, chopped generous grinding of black pepper

Step 2: WRAP in prosciutto

WRAP Step 3: SPLASH with wine, stock, etc

8 slices of prosciutto crudo 4 whole sage leaves

NOTES: For a glossy sauce, whisk a large knob of butter into the pan juices. Adjust the seasoning, pour over the fish and serve.

If the fish starts looking dry at any point during cooking, add an extra splash of grappa. Hic!

SPLASH good dousing each of extra-virgin olive oil and grappa

& SPLASH! CHICKEN

A S PA R A G U S

SCALLOPS

MOZZARELLA BALLS

4 skinless breasts

20 stems of long green asparagus, lightly blanched

8 shelled king scallops

12 bocconcini di mozarella

ROLL 1-2 handfuls of grated Parmesan cheese sprig of fresh rosemary, chopped generous grinding of black pepper

WRAP 8 slices of prosciutto crudo 4 small sprigs of fresh rosemary

SPLASH good dousing each of extra-virgin olive oil and Marsala or white wine As above, but cook for 20–25 minutes.

150

Remove the fish from the fridge half an hour before cooking. Preheat the oven to 200°C. ROLL each piece in the Parmesan mixture until well coated.

WRAP each in 2 overlapping slices of prosciutto, tucking a sage leaf inside each parcel and the prosciutto ends underneath.

Place in a roasting pan.

SPLASH with the oil and add more black pepper and a sprinkling of salt flakes.

Pop in the oven for 10–20 minutes. Threequarters of the way through, SPLASH the wraps with the grappa. Remove from the oven when the prosciutto looks dark and delicious, and the fish is firm to the touch.

r

EasyTastyItalianBlad

ROLL ROLL 1-2 handfuls of grated Parmesan cheese finely grated zest of 1 orange (retain for juice) generous grinding of black pepper drizzle of olive oil

WRAP 8 slices of prosciutto crudo 4 orange slices (retain the rest for juice)

SPLASH good dousing each of extra-virgin olive oil and Grand Marnie As above, but cook for 10–15 minutes.

1-2 handfuls of grated Parmesan cheese grated zest of 1⁄2 lemon 2 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped generous grinding of black pepper

ROLL 1-2 handfuls of grated Parmesan cheese 4 basil leaves, finely chopped generous grinding of black pepper

WRAP WRAP

12 slices of prosciutto crudo

8 slices of prosciutto crudo 4 small sprigs of lemon thyme

SPLASH

SPLASH

good dousing of extra-virgin olive oil Tapenade vinaigrette (page 00)

good dousing each of extra-virgin olive oil and martini bianco

As above, but cook for 10-15 minutes.

As above, but cook for 10-15 minutes.

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Page 10

EDDIE COCHRAN Three Steps To Heaven

12:47

The formula for Heaven's very simple Just follow the rules and you will see And as life travels on And things do go wrong Just follow steps one, two and three

There are three steps to Roll, Wrap and Splash Heaven and once mastered there will be no looking back. This umamifilled notion can apply to almost anything and anyone!

17/3/09

ROLL, WRAP

FISH 4 pieces of skinned fish fillet, each about 150g, such as monkfish, cod loin, sea bass or swordfish

Step 1: ROLL in grated Parmesan

ROLL 1-2 handfuls of grated Parmesan grated zest of 1⁄2 lemon 6 fresh sage leaves, chopped generous grinding of black pepper

Step 2: WRAP in prosciutto

WRAP Step 3: SPLASH with wine, stock, etc

8 slices of prosciutto crudo 4 whole sage leaves

NOTES: For a glossy sauce, whisk a large knob of butter into the pan juices. Adjust the seasoning, pour over the fish and serve.

If the fish starts looking dry at any point during cooking, add an extra splash of grappa. Hic!

SPLASH good dousing each of extra-virgin olive oil and grappa

& SPLASH! CHICKEN

A S PA R A G U S

SCALLOPS

MOZZARELLA BALLS

4 skinless breasts

20 stems of long green asparagus, lightly blanched

8 shelled king scallops

12 bocconcini di mozarella

ROLL 1-2 handfuls of grated Parmesan cheese sprig of fresh rosemary, chopped generous grinding of black pepper

WRAP 8 slices of prosciutto crudo 4 small sprigs of fresh rosemary

SPLASH good dousing each of extra-virgin olive oil and Marsala or white wine As above, but cook for 20–25 minutes.

150

Remove the fish from the fridge half an hour before cooking. Preheat the oven to 200°C. ROLL each piece in the Parmesan mixture until well coated.

WRAP each in 2 overlapping slices of prosciutto, tucking a sage leaf inside each parcel and the prosciutto ends underneath.

Place in a roasting pan.

SPLASH with the oil and add more black pepper and a sprinkling of salt flakes.

Pop in the oven for 10–20 minutes. Threequarters of the way through, SPLASH the wraps with the grappa. Remove from the oven when the prosciutto looks dark and delicious, and the fish is firm to the touch.

r

EasyTastyItalianBlad

ROLL ROLL 1-2 handfuls of grated Parmesan cheese finely grated zest of 1 orange (retain for juice) generous grinding of black pepper drizzle of olive oil

WRAP 8 slices of prosciutto crudo 4 orange slices (retain the rest for juice)

SPLASH good dousing each of extra-virgin olive oil and Grand Marnie As above, but cook for 10–15 minutes.

1-2 handfuls of grated Parmesan cheese grated zest of 1⁄2 lemon 2 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped generous grinding of black pepper

ROLL 1-2 handfuls of grated Parmesan cheese 4 basil leaves, finely chopped generous grinding of black pepper

WRAP WRAP

12 slices of prosciutto crudo

8 slices of prosciutto crudo 4 small sprigs of lemon thyme

SPLASH

SPLASH

good dousing of extra-virgin olive oil Tapenade vinaigrette (page 00)

good dousing each of extra-virgin olive oil and martini bianco

As above, but cook for 10-15 minutes.

As above, but cook for 10-15 minutes.

153

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Page 12

had a friend who said that if you deep fried anything it would taste good. I wonder if you took bad love and painted it pink the same would be true?

F RY I N G Out of the frying pan and into the fire. This cooking method is about as hot as it gets in the kitchen and involves the cooking of food in oil or fat at very high temperatures.

To me there are several different types of frying. In deepfrying, food goes straight to the deep end and cannot touch the bottom. In shallow-frying food is one- to two-thirds immersed in hot oil. In pan-frying very little oil is used at all and the food only turned, and in sautĂŠing and stirfrying the food must be moved often to prevent sticking.

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EasyTastyItalianBlad

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Page 2

A COOKBOOK WITH DRIVE

ÂŁ20.00 Hardback 978 184400 755 4 192pp 248 x 187mm 10,000 words including over 100 recipes 50 colour photographs and 50 illustrations Publication October 2009 Quadrille Publishing Limited Alhambra House 27-31 Charing Cross Road London WC2H 0LS www.quadrille.co.uk

ASY T STY I ALIAN Laura Santtini