WINTER
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RECIPES AND FURTHER INFO
DECEMBER
HEARTH SIDEĂŚFESTIVITIES "RRR ĂŚ) VEĂŚJUSTĂŚBEENĂŚDOWNĂŚTOĂŚTHEĂŚLOTTIEĂŚTOĂŚlNDĂŚTHEĂŚ WATERĂŚTROUGHĂŚISĂŚAĂŚMINIĂŚICEĂŚRINKĂŚANDĂŚEVERYĂŚPLANTĂŚISĂŚ GLISTENINGĂŚWITHĂŚFROSTĂŚINĂŚTHEĂŚMORNINGĂŚSUNBEAMS ĂŚĂŚ )ĂŚMADEĂŚANĂŚEXECUTIVEĂŚASSESSMENTĂŚOFĂŚWHATĂŚTOĂŚHARVESTĂŚ ANDĂŚCOOKĂŚFORĂŚTHEĂŚ#HRISTMASĂŚFEAST ĂŚANDĂŚTHEREĂŚISĂŚANĂŚ ABUNDANCEĂŚOFĂŚWINTERĂŚVEGĂŚINĂŚTHEIRĂŚPRIME ĂŚREADYĂŚFORĂŚ THEĂŚHOLIDAYĂŚTABLE
ĂŚĂŚĂŚĂŚĂŚSALSIFYĂŚAND ĂŚĂŚĂŚĂŚĂŚSCORZONERAĂŚ These twin root vegetables, sown back in April or May, should be ready to harvest now right through to early spring. They taste much the same; salsify is pale and looks like a skinny parsnip, scorzonera has a black skin with butter-white esh. Rarely found for sale, they’re worth growing if you have the space. You can sow them as for parsnips or carrots, thin them out once the sprouts are identiďŹ able, and then forget about them. They produce edible owers in summer as well as young leaves. They grow deep – usually 30cm – so dig carefully. They have a creamy texture when cooked and a vaguely sweet avour reminiscent of Jerusalem artichoke. Scrub the root and use right away, as they discolour – if not, pop into a bowl of lemony water. Cut in two or three pieces to ďŹ t in a pan of boiling, salted water, cook until tender, then the rub off the skin. Cut into stubby ďŹ ngers and serve simply dressed with lemon and butter.
ĂŚ
WINTER
7EĂŚUSUALLYĂŚSPENDĂŚTHEĂŚBIGĂŚDAYĂŚWITHĂŚ$AN SĂŚFAMILYĂŚ INĂŚ$ORSET ĂŚARRIVINGĂŚONĂŚ#HRISTMASĂŚ%VEĂŚWITHĂŚAĂŚVAN LOADĂŚOFĂŚPRESENTSĂŚ INCLUDINGĂŚSEVERALĂŚJARSĂŚOFĂŚ(ARVESTĂŚ #HUTNEY ĂŚSEEĂŚPAGEĂŚ ĂŚANDĂŚBAGĂŚUPONĂŚBAGĂŚOFĂŚ ALLOTMENTĂŚVEG ĂŚ&ORĂŚ#HRISTMASĂŚLUNCH ĂŚPHEASANTĂŚ ISĂŚUSUALLYĂŚTHEIRĂŚBIRDĂŚOFĂŚCHOICE ĂŚSHOTĂŚLOCALLY ĂŚDE FEATHEREDĂŚANDĂŚGUTTEDĂŚBYĂŚMYĂŚFATHER IN LAW ĂŚSTUFFEDĂŚ WITHĂŚAĂŚQUINCEĂŚFROMĂŚAĂŚTREEĂŚINĂŚTHEIRĂŚGARDENĂŚANDĂŚ ROASTEDĂŚINĂŚTHEĂŚ2AYBURN ĂŚ &ORĂŚME ĂŚTHEĂŚREALĂŚDELIGHTSĂŚOFĂŚTHEĂŚTABLEĂŚWILLĂŚBEĂŚTHEĂŚ FRUITSĂŚOFĂŚOURĂŚALLOTMENTĂŚLABOURS ĂŚCABBAGEĂŚANDĂŚKALEĂŚ SIMMEREDĂŚINĂŚWINEĂŚWITHĂŚDRIEDĂŚFRUITSĂŚANDĂŚSPICES ĂŚ LEEKSĂŚPOACHEDĂŚINĂŚAĂŚSAFFRONĂŚANDĂŚORANGEĂŚSAUCE ĂŚ "RUSSELSĂŚSPROUTSĂŚCOOKEDĂŚTOĂŚPERFECTIONĂŚ SEEĂŚPAGEĂŚ ĂŚANDĂŚANĂŚIMPROVISATIONALĂŚVEGETARIANĂŚCELEBRATIONĂŚ PIEĂŚUSINGĂŚWHATEVERĂŚELSEĂŚ)ĂŚCANĂŚMUSTERĂŚnĂŚCHARD ĂŚ BEETROOT ĂŚSALSIFY ĂŚCARAMELISEDĂŚONIONS ĂŚ) LLĂŚRAISEĂŚAĂŚ GLASSĂŚTOĂŚTHEĂŚBOUNTYĂŚOFĂŚOURĂŚLITTLEĂŚ.ORTHĂŚ,ONDONĂŚ ALLOTMENTĂŚANDĂŚTOĂŚANOTHERĂŚBLESSEDĂŚYEARĂŚOFĂŚGROWING ĂŚ COOKINGĂŚANDĂŚEATING
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ĂŚĂŚĂŚĂŚĂŚWINTERĂŚCABBAGESĂŚ
KEYĂŚJOBSĂŚRIGHTĂŚNOW
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This includes several varieties of white, red and green cabbage, including the mighty Savoy with its beautiful veiney leaves which are ideal for stufďŹ ng (see page 203). Cut winter cabbages away from the base stem and compost the outer leaves, which may be riddled with holes due to bird or slug damage. But save as many leaves as possible, as they are highly nutritious – especially dark green ones. Winter cabbages are a little tougher than summer ones, but they can be enjoyed raw or lightly cooked if shredded. Shreds can be tossed with salt and left to drain over the sink for a while to soften before adding to salads with a light coating of vinegar and oil. Red cabbage loves slowcooking, though it’s important to include an acidic element to maintain its magenta colour. Stew with plenty of wine or vinegar and sugar, adding some fruit like apple chunks, dried apricots or sultanas or orange zest. Whole caraway, cumin, celery and dill seeds and juniper berries are all classic spices.
DECEMBERĂŚ
JANUARY
ALLĂŚQUIETĂŚONĂŚTHEĂŚLOTTIEĂŚFRONT (EREĂŚINĂŚ,ONDONĂŚWEĂŚAREĂŚATĂŚVIRTUALLYĂŚTHEĂŚSAMEĂŚ LATITUDEĂŚASĂŚ-OSCOW ĂŚBUTĂŚTHEĂŚ'ULFĂŚ3TREAMĂŚAFFORDSĂŚ USĂŚAĂŚMILDERĂŚCLIMATEĂŚnĂŚFORĂŚTHEĂŚTIMEĂŚBEINGĂŚANYWAY ĂŚ ASĂŚCLIMATEĂŚCHANGEĂŚISĂŚSLOWINGĂŚITĂŚDOWN ĂŚ2IGHTĂŚNOW ĂŚ DAYLIGHTĂŚLASTSĂŚFORĂŚONLYĂŚEIGHTĂŚHOURSĂŚORĂŚSO ĂŚANDĂŚVERYĂŚ FEWĂŚOFĂŚTHOSEĂŚAREĂŚSPENTĂŚDOWNĂŚONĂŚTHEĂŚPLOT ĂŚEXCEPTĂŚ BRIEFĂŚVISITSĂŚFORĂŚSMALLĂŚHARVESTS ĂŚ3UMMERĂŚISĂŚSUCHĂŚ AĂŚDISTANTĂŚMEMORYĂŚANDĂŚANĂŚEVENĂŚMOREĂŚDISTANTĂŚ EXPECTATION ĂŚBUTĂŚWE REĂŚSTEADILYĂŚEMPTYINGĂŚTHEĂŚ FREEZERĂŚOFĂŚHOMEGROWNĂŚDISHESĂŚTHATĂŚSTILLĂŚTASTEĂŚSUN DRENCHED ĂŚ) MĂŚHIBERNATINGĂŚINĂŚMYĂŚTOASTYĂŚWARMĂŚ HOUSE CAVEĂŚWITHĂŚAĂŚFULLĂŚBELLY ĂŚSNUGGLEDĂŚUPĂŚWITHĂŚSEEDĂŚ CATALOGUESĂŚANDĂŚMYĂŚLAPTOP
KEYĂŚJOBSĂŚRIGHTĂŚNOW
HOMEĂŚSPROUTINGĂŚ(OME GROWNĂŚSPROUTSĂŚAREĂŚ SOMETHINGĂŚ)ĂŚHAVEĂŚONĂŚTHEĂŚGOĂŚALMOSTĂŚALLĂŚTHEĂŚTIME ĂŚ 4HEYĂŚAREĂŚESPECIALLYĂŚWELCOMEĂŚINĂŚWINTERĂŚWHENĂŚHOME GROWNĂŚSALADĂŚISĂŚFAR ĂŚFARĂŚONĂŚTHEĂŚHORIZON ĂŚ,IVINGĂŚSPROUTSĂŚ AREĂŚFULLĂŚOFĂŚDYNAMICĂŚNUTRITIONĂŚANDĂŚEASILYĂŚDIGESTIBLE ĂŚ (OMEĂŚSPROUTINGĂŚISĂŚFUN ĂŚQUICKĂŚANDĂŚSATISFYINGĂŚANDĂŚ INlNITELYĂŚCHEAPERĂŚTHANĂŚBUYINGĂŚSPROUTSĂŚFROMĂŚAĂŚSHOP ĂŚ 4HEĂŚMOSTĂŚCOMMONĂŚSEEDSĂŚFORĂŚSPROUTINGĂŚAREĂŚALFALFA ĂŚ MUNGĂŚBEAN ĂŚADUKIĂŚBEAN ĂŚBROCCOLI ĂŚFENUGREEK ĂŚRADISH ĂŚ SUNmOWER ĂŚMUSTARDĂŚANDĂŚCRESS ĂŚAMONGĂŚOTHERS ĂŚ6ISITĂŚ YOURĂŚLOCALĂŚHEALTHĂŚFOODĂŚSHOPĂŚFORĂŚSEEDS 9OUĂŚCANĂŚBUYĂŚSPECIALLYĂŚDESIGNEDĂŚSEEDĂŚSPROUTINGĂŚKITS ĂŚ BUTĂŚHERE SĂŚHOWĂŚ)ĂŚDOĂŚIT ĂŚ'ETĂŚYOURSELFĂŚAĂŚVERYĂŚLARGEĂŚ GLASSĂŚJARĂŚnĂŚASKĂŚATĂŚAĂŚRESTAURANTĂŚORĂŚCAFEĂŚWHEREĂŚTHEYĂŚ GETĂŚTHROUGHĂŚCATERING SIZEĂŚJARSĂŚOFĂŚPICKLESĂŚORĂŚOLIVESĂŚnĂŚ ABOUTĂŚ ĂŚLITREĂŚSIZEĂŚISĂŚPERFECT ĂŚ3OAKĂŚTHEĂŚLABELĂŚOFFĂŚANDĂŚ WASHĂŚTHOROUGHLY ĂŚ.EXT ĂŚFORĂŚAĂŚPERMEABLEĂŚLID ĂŚ9OUĂŚ KNOWĂŚTHOSEĂŚKNEE HIGHĂŚNYLONĂŚSTOCKINGS ĂŚ7HOĂŚBUYSĂŚ Caption text here text here
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ÌÌÌÌÌPARSNIPSÌ January is the perfect time to harvest parsnips. Their avour improves with a few frosts; beyond this time they may become woodier at the core. As soon as spring suggests itself, they start to regrow and the avour is sucked out of the root. I’d never heard of a parsnip until I moved to the UK from the southwest US. I’m surprised they are not more universally loved. While other vegetables, especially those in the same family like celeriac and parsley root, may taste a little bit like parsnip, it is really a avour unto itself. Parsnips taste like nothing else. Scrub and peel only if you have to, cutting away any blemishes. Slice thinly and deep-fry or oven roast for crisps, then eat dipped in honey. Roasted parsnip batons or wedges are lovely with a little honey drizzled over them, or maple syrup. Or cook them in a saucepan with butter, lots of dry sherry and a little brown sugar, until the sauce reduces to a glaze. Of course they also make a fantastic soup (see page 202).
DECEMBERĂŚ
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WINTER
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ĂŚĂŚĂŚĂŚĂŚBRUSSELSĂŚSPROUTSĂŚ
THENĂŚDRAINĂŚCAREFULLYĂŚTHROUGHĂŚTHEĂŚSTOCKINGĂŚANDĂŚYOURĂŚ lNGERS ĂŚ$ON TĂŚLETĂŚTHEĂŚSEEDSĂŚSTANDĂŚINĂŚWATERĂŚnĂŚDRAINĂŚ THOROUGHLYĂŚANDĂŚSHAKEĂŚTHEĂŚSEEDSĂŚBACKĂŚINTOĂŚTHEĂŚJARĂŚ FROMĂŚTHEĂŚTOP ĂŚ2EPEATĂŚTHISĂŚPROCEDUREĂŚTWICEĂŚDAILYĂŚ UNTILĂŚTHEĂŚSEEDSĂŚSTARTĂŚTOĂŚSPROUT ĂŚTHENĂŚLEAVEĂŚTHEĂŚJARĂŚ UNCOVEREDĂŚINĂŚAĂŚWINDOWSILL ĂŚ+EEPĂŚRINSINGĂŚTWICEĂŚDAILYĂŚ UNTILĂŚTHEĂŚSPROUTSĂŚAREĂŚBIGĂŚENOUGHĂŚTOĂŚEATĂŚnĂŚBETWEENĂŚ ĂŚ ANDĂŚ ĂŚDAYS ĂŚ4HAT SĂŚIT
PRUNEĂŚFRUITĂŚTREESĂŚ.OWĂŚISĂŚTHEĂŚTIMEĂŚFORĂŚAĂŚ PRUNINGĂŚJOBĂŚONĂŚMOSTĂŚFRUITĂŚTREESĂŚANDĂŚBUSHES ĂŚWHILEĂŚ THEĂŚPLANTSĂŚAREĂŚDORMANT ĂŚ4HISĂŚINCLUDES ĂŚAPPLES ĂŚ CURRANTS ĂŚGOOSEBERRIES ĂŚPLUMS ĂŚRASPBERRIES ĂŚPEARSĂŚ ANDĂŚGRAPEĂŚVINES ĂŚ4HEĂŚAIMĂŚISĂŚTOĂŚIMPROVEĂŚTHEIRĂŚHEALTHĂŚ BYĂŚREMOVINGĂŚDEADĂŚGROWTHĂŚANDĂŚREDUCINGĂŚOVERCROWDEDĂŚ BRANCHES ĂŚBUTĂŚTECHNIQUESĂŚVARYĂŚFROMĂŚFRUITĂŚTOĂŚFRUIT ĂŚSOĂŚ SEEKĂŚADVICEĂŚABOUTĂŚYOURĂŚSPECIlCĂŚVARIETY ĂŚ ĂŚ
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A high percentage of people would cite the poor Brussels sprout as their least favourite vegetable. I can understand why – they go past a point of no return if cooked too long. I usually grow just one or maybe two Brussels plants a year. Like other brassicas, they take up a lot of space and are slow-growing, but well worth it, both for the sprouts themselves and the tops. In my experience, some sprouts form before others (unlike the perfect equally-formed sproutstudded stalks I’ve admired at the farmer’s market); harvest these and leave the rest to develop. If sprouts have ‘blown’ or opened up, they can still be enjoyed as random greens, stir-fried, sautĂŠed, braised or steamed, but never boiled to mush. Cut the sprouts off the main stem. Discard any damaged leaves. Remove loose leaves, if you wish, to reveal the tight core, but the outer leaves are quite edible. Making a shallow cross at the solid base of each sprout may reduce cooking time, but I rarely bother unless the sprouts are huge.
DECEMBERĂŚ
FEBRUARY
WINTER SĂŚlNALĂŚCHAPTER )T SĂŚSTILLĂŚCOLD ĂŚBUTĂŚTHEĂŚNIGHTSĂŚAREĂŚNOTICEABLYĂŚDRAWINGĂŚ OUT ĂŚRATHERĂŚTHANĂŚIN ĂŚ-YĂŚSEEDĂŚPOTATOESĂŚHAVEĂŚARRIVEDĂŚ ANDĂŚAREĂŚCHITTINGĂŚAWAYĂŚHAPPILY ĂŚ-OSTLYĂŚ) MĂŚKEEPINGĂŚ WARMĂŚINĂŚTHEĂŚKITCHEN ĂŚCOOKINGĂŚUPĂŚTHEĂŚWINTERĂŚHARVESTĂŚ ANDĂŚFREEZERĂŚFODDER ĂŚFANTASISINGĂŚABOUTĂŚWHAT SĂŚTOĂŚ COME ĂŚ) MĂŚLOOKINGĂŚFORWARDĂŚTOĂŚSHIFTINGĂŚSOMEĂŚOFĂŚTHEĂŚ LAYERSĂŚBOTHĂŚBENEATHĂŚMYĂŚSKINĂŚANDĂŚONĂŚTOPĂŚOFĂŚITĂŚASĂŚ)ĂŚ GETĂŚBUSYĂŚINĂŚTHEĂŚGARDEN ĂŚBUTĂŚ) LLĂŚHAVEĂŚTOĂŚWAITĂŚJUSTĂŚAĂŚ FEWĂŚMOREĂŚWEEKSx
KEYĂŚJOBSĂŚRIGHTĂŚNOW
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DIVIDEĂŚANDĂŚPLANTĂŚORĂŚFORCEĂŚRHUBARBĂŚ 2HUBARBĂŚISĂŚBESTĂŚSTARTEDĂŚFROMĂŚANĂŚEXISTINGĂŚCROWNĂŚ RATHERĂŚTHANĂŚFROMĂŚSEED ĂŚANDĂŚCROWNSĂŚCANĂŚBEĂŚPLANTEDĂŚ UNTILĂŚ-ARCH ĂŚ)TĂŚISĂŚNOTĂŚRECOMMENDEDĂŚFORĂŚCONTAINERS ĂŚ BUTĂŚPLANTEDĂŚINĂŚTHEĂŚGROUND ĂŚITĂŚISĂŚEASY ĂŚPERENNIAL ĂŚ PROLIlCĂŚANDĂŚTROUBLE FREE ĂŚ4HEĂŚONLYĂŚADVISABLEĂŚ RHUBARBĂŚMAINTENANCE ĂŚTHOUGHĂŚNOTĂŚESSENTIAL ĂŚISĂŚTOĂŚ DIVIDEĂŚEXISTINGĂŚCROWNSĂŚWHICHĂŚAREĂŚlVEĂŚYEARSĂŚOLDĂŚORĂŚ MOREĂŚTOĂŚMAKEĂŚTHEMĂŚMOREĂŚVIGOROUS ĂŚWHICHĂŚSIMPLYĂŚ MULTIPLIESĂŚTHEĂŚPLANT ĂŚ4HISĂŚISĂŚDONEĂŚBYĂŚLIFTINGĂŚTHEĂŚ CROWNĂŚOUTĂŚOFĂŚTHEĂŚSOILĂŚANDĂŚSLICINGĂŚITĂŚINTOĂŚTHREEĂŚPIECESĂŚ WITHĂŚTWOĂŚSWIFTĂŚVERTICALĂŚSTROKESĂŚOFĂŚAĂŚSPADE ĂŚ2E PLANTĂŚ THEĂŚCROWNSĂŚINĂŚTHEIRĂŚNEWĂŚPERMANENTĂŚPOSITIONSĂŚJUSTĂŚ BELOWĂŚTHEĂŚSURFACE ĂŚ'IVEĂŚTHEMĂŚPLENTYĂŚOFĂŚ4,#ĂŚINĂŚTHEĂŚ FORMĂŚOFĂŚWELL ROTTEDĂŚCOMPOSTĂŚANDĂŚWATER )FĂŚYOUĂŚHAVEĂŚMOREĂŚTHANĂŚONEĂŚESTABLISHEDĂŚCROWN ĂŚ YOUĂŚCANĂŚFORCEĂŚONEĂŚ NOTĂŚRECENTLYĂŚPLANTEDĂŚONES ĂŚASĂŚ
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ĂŚĂŚĂŚĂŚĂŚSWEDEĂŚ This vegetable confuses. Some equate it to turnip (see page 180), but it is different. The Scots are one of the few cultures who appreciate its merits, glorifying it as the core ingredient in bashed neeps, served traditionally on Burn’s Night with haggis. ‘Neeps’ should be pars-neeps, surely? No. Swedes. The swede (aka rutabaga) is often considered a root vegetable, when in fact it’s a brassica and should be treated as such when considering crop rotation. To clarify, swede is larger and more rotund than its turnip cousin, with a purple blush and apricot esh. It is sweeter, richer and creamier in texture than turnip. Most banish it to the ‘only ďŹ t for cattle fodder’ category, but I say, “Give swede a chance!â€? Strictly a winter vegetable, homegrown swedes never reach the proportions of those commercially grown, but bring satisfaction in having something to dig up mid-winter. It makes a lovely mash if enriched with butter and milk, or better yet, cream. DECEMBERĂŚ
ĂŚĂŚĂŚĂŚĂŚWINTERĂŚHERBS Woody, evergreen herbs such as rosemary, thyme, bay and sage are available year-round, but are so welcome in winter to invigorate roasted dishes. I refer to these herbs as ‘oily herbs’ because they contain pungent, waxy oils which sustain them through all weather conditions. Rosemary works beautifully with winter vegetables and breads, but needn’t be restricted to savoury dishes. A chopped handful added to sweet biscuits and cakes is a revelation. Thyme, too, applies itself gloriously to autumn fruits (see page xx). Bay is best infusing itself into stocks and sauces to add another dimension – when making a bechamel, simmer milk with fresh bay leaves ďŹ rst. Sage can be made into a winter pesto with walnuts instead of pine nuts and basil (add a touch of lemon juice to balance the avour). When making a soup or stew, grab a sprig of each of these herbs, tie together with string and simmer in the liquid for a whole new dimension.
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hot + sour swede + cabbage salad
!ĂŚCOLOURFUL ĂŚCRUNCHY ĂŚHIGH IMPACTĂŚSALADĂŚTOĂŚ BRIGHTENĂŚAĂŚWINTER SĂŚDAY ĂŚ2AWĂŚGRATEDĂŚSWEDEĂŚ ADDSĂŚAĂŚSURPRISINGLYĂŚGOODĂŚmAVOURĂŚTOĂŚTHISĂŚ !SIAN STYLEĂŚSALAD
200g red cabbage, ďŹ nely shredded 2 tbsp sesame seeds
Toast the sesame seeds. Place them in a small frying pan over a medium heat, stirring and shaking the pan until golden and popping. Remove to a plate to cool.
200g swede, peeled and coarsely grated 2 spring onions, ďŹ nely sliced 3–4 mild red chillies, chopped Handful of parsley, ďŹ nely chopped
Combine the cabbage, swede, onions, chillies, parsley and sesame seeds. Beat together the dressing ingredients and stir through the salad. Pound the peanuts in a mortar until crushed. Divide the salad amongst four plates and sprinkle with peanuts. Serves 4
For the dressing 3 tbsp shoyu or light soy sauce 2 tbsp rice vinegar 2 tbsp unreďŹ ned caster sugar 1 tbsp sesame oil 50g toasted peanuts, to ďŹ nish
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Prep tip Remove any ropey outer leaves from the cabbage. Cut the cabbage in half ďŹ rst, then cut out the solid core and discard to the compost container. Place one half cut-side down, cut in half once more top to bottom, slice ďŹ nely cutting downward, then weigh the 200g.
parsnip, pear + stilton soup 4HESEÌTHREEÌKINGSÌOFÌTHEÌ WINTERÌTABLEÌSOMEHOWÌ ADDÌUPÌTOÌMOREÌTHANÌTHEÌ SUMÌOFÌTHEIRÌPARTSÌINÌTHISÌ LUXURIOUSLYÌRICHÌSOUPÌnÌ DElNITELYÌAÌMEALÌINÌITSELFÌ SERVEDÌWITHÌSOMEÌRUSTIC Ì CRUSTYÌBREAD 50g butter 2 large onions, chopped 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves 3 celery sticks, chopped 1 kg parsnips, scrubbed and chopped 2 pears, cored, chopped and dressed with the juice of ½ a lemon Sea salt and freshly ground pepper 1.5 litres vegetable stock 250g Stilton, crumbled
Heat a large pan over a low to medium heat and melt the butter. Add the onion with the thyme and gently soften until translucent. Add the celery, parsnips and some salt and pepper, cover and sweat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the pears with the lemon juice and the stock. Bring to the boil and simmer for half an hour. Cool briey, then puree until completely smooth. Ladle into warm bowls and sprinkle the crumbled Stilton on top of each. Serves 6
Prep tip If possible, for the best avour, leave the skin on the parsnips. Just scrub thoroughly and cut out any blemishes. The skin can be left on the pears as well.
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WINTER
lemony lentil cabbage parcels
zesty brussels sprouts
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6OILA ĂŚ4HEĂŚMUCHĂŚMALIGNEDĂŚ "RUSSELSĂŚSPROUTSĂŚBECOMEĂŚ AMBROSIA
200g red lentils, rinsed 1 Savoy cabbage 3 large onions (600g approx), halved and sliced 1 tbsp olive oil, + more for greasing baking dish
2 tsp sugar Finely grated zest and juice of one large lemon Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 50g butter, melted
Put a large pan of water on to boil and salt it well. Place the lentils in a small lidded saucepan and just cover with water. Bring to the boil and skim off the foam. Boil rapidly for 10 minutes, stirring from time to time, then reduce to a simmer, add some salt and cover. Add a bit more water if they seem to be drying out. Simmer for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. The resulting consistency should be like thick porridge. Remove from the heat. Meanwhile, cut 12 cabbage leaves carefully away from the core at the base of the leaf, discarding any tough outer leaves. Shave down any particularly thick stems with a paring knife. Wash the leaves, then blanch them, a few at a time, in the boiling water for 2 minutes only, using tongs to handle them. Refresh the leaves under a stream of cold water and drain in a colander.
Put the prepared sprouts in a lidded pan with very little water, add a generous knob of butter, some salt, a couple of spoonfuls of sugar and quite a lot of freshly grated lemon zest. Don’t start to cook until very close to serving time. This is usually the death of them, if they are cooked too early and left to fester. When you are ready, put the covered pan over a high ame, bring to the boil, reduce to a simmer, stirring gently once or twice, until just bright green and tender – 3–5 minutes depending on quantity – and serve ASAP.
Heat a frying pan over a medium heat and add the olive oil. Add the onions and fry, stirring frequently. When they start to go brown, add the sugar. Stir them attentively until nicely caramelised. In a bowl, combine the caramelised onions, cooked lentils, lemon juice and zest. Taste and season. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F) and brush a baking dish with oil. Pat dry each cabbage leaf. Place a heaped spoonful of ďŹ lling in the middle near the base of the leaf. Fold over the sides, then roll up. Place seam-side down in the baking dish. Brush lightly with melted butter. Bake for 20–25 minutes until lightly browned. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature. Serves 4–6
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DECEMBERĂŚ