Quarter Beat | October 2013

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A TOUR GUIDE’S PERSPECTIVE | NI WAR MEMORIAL | BELFAST RESTAURANT WEEK | WHAT’S ON

QUArter beAt

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Monthly News & Listings for Belfast’s Cultural Quarter

A toUr gUide’s perspeCtive Cathie McKimm

One of the landmarks this Blue Badge Guide always spots when guiding the city, crisscrossing the river and the streets surrounding the old town, is the Spire of Hope, balancing above the roof of Belfast Cathedral like a postponed rocket launch. ‘A spire you say? What kind of a spire is that for a Cathedral?’ ‘Well I guess it wouldn’t go amiss to get it in early, that Belfast is a city built on sand, or what the locals call ‘Belfast sleech’. It’s an underground nasty for engineers and builders and up to the end of the 19th century the entire centre of Belfast was supported on a forest of log piles – with part of that forest still Quarter Beat October 2013, Issue 9 Published by Cathedral Quarter Trust 3-5 Commercial Court, Belfast BT1 2NB 028 9031 4011 | info@cqtrust.org Design by Rinky | rinky.org Illustration by SMG | 400facts.tumblr.com

doing its best to hold up Belfast Cathedral – but not quite...’ I go on to explain that the incongruous square structure from which the modern steel spire shoots up is the nave roof which the original architect had designed to accommodate a 210 foot bell tower that can now never be built as the Cathedral is slowly sinking on its foundations. Some are not long in pointing out that the Spire of ‘Hope’, a little like the ‘peace’ walls might be a bit of an oxymoron, while another more astutely observes, “‘Never’ you say? Never be built? Seems like they’ve managed beautifully”. Here arrives one of those observations, which if you catch it in time, bats its own commentary back right at you. Yes. I did say ‘never’. Maybe Supported by:

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OCT 2013

my language, like the architecture, doesn’t have to be so uncompromising. However, I notice more and more, the fashion in which I’ve learned to tell stories is often uncompromising, drastic, and partial, concerning itself with all kinds of extremes and crises. It’s a regional hazard, a kind of psychological dialect, that’s now indulging Belfast’s propensity and fascination for things ‘going under’. The Albert Clock, suffering early from subsidence, now also draws attention to itself as the ‘Leaning Tower of Belfast’. And there is also ‘that there ship’ sinking in enough dramatic fashion to become the mainstay of 21st century tourism in Belfast. We even named a county ‘Down’ in 1570. Scale’s another of our propensities and fascinations. What’s big is ‘giant’ – two yellow Krupp cranes get re-christened Samson and Goliath and in the very geography of the city’s hills we discern a sleeping giant. Further north another giant, Finn, in an epic stand off with an enemy builds a road that gets ripped up in the end and gives birth to a Causeway. When things are small however, we christen them ‘wee’ – a diminutive skillfully used to shrink the hell out of all kinds of natural sized stuff. These days, going out into the city with the citizens of the world, I’m more and more aware of the clichéd narratives and more intent to dig beneath the sand and sleech to present other less visible narratives of Belfast. I inevitably turn my focus to the old town – or Cathedral Quarter – the place where the river Farset meets the river Lagan and a name is born ‘Béal Feirste’. By 1780 Belfast had 12,000 citizens and was earning a reputation for itself as the ‘Athens of the North’. Around the vicinity of the ‘four corners’ the old city grew up and Belfast’s grandest and first public building, the Assembly

Cnb365: WoUldn’t it be greAt iF it WAs like this All the tiMe?

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Gary Hunter “I think Culture Night Belfast number five is the one where we all realise that this isn’t simply an amazing evening of fun, it’s a snapshot of what Belfast could so easily be like all year round.” Adam Turkington, Culture Night Belfast Programme Manager. Since 2009, on one special night of the year, Belfast’s public areas and streets are turned into performance spaces. Free performances, events, talks, tours and a whole range of interactive workshops take place throughout the evening for members of the public to participate in and enjoy. Inspired by compelling stories and positive feedback from the public about the family-friendly, eclectic and inclusive nature of this well established, annual event, the Culture Night Belfast team pondered the questions how can we move closer to CNB 365? Why shouldn’t every night be culture night in Belfast? What lessons can we learn from this event that will enable us to make positive and lasting changes to our city? The brief, at least, was clear: In previous years there were competitions in


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