SUMMER 2020
XAD
NATIVE LAND OF THE Cab to MONASTRELL 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley
put on your table, period. By keeping our roots, we follow our traditions. We have commited ourselves to produce top-quality wines, developing our genuine Monastrell grape variety.
HECULA IN FOLDER “ �
Classic Cabernet Sauvignon. Currant, blackberry, cigar box with touches of chocolate, cedar and pencil lead. Full flavored & just so damn good. I should raise the price. - Charles Smith
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SUMMER 2020 16
E
IF IT AIN’T BROKE, DON’T FIX IT MICHAEL APSTEIN
En Primeur has stood the test of time. It might be worth giving it a shot.
NCH 18
THE COMMODITIZATION OF WINE W BLAKE GREY
We can’t just throw away En Primeur, can we?
COLUMNS 6 | LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO Why anyone would ever want incense in their cocktail?
8 | MUST TRY CRAIG PINHEY The proof is in the orchard.
9 | LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC
10 | A NEW SCENE TIM PAWSEY Winery dining in BC has never looked — nor tasted — so good.
12 | BEYOND ... TOD STEWART Argentina does France every well.
20 | NO COMPARISON REQUIRED GURVINDER BHATIA
Beer and cheese? What a concept.
The key to Barbaresco’s identity is in this grape.
27 | BUYING GUIDE
23 | UP YOUR COCKTAIL GAME
The best wine, beer and spirits from around the world, critiqued by our expert tasting panel.
LISA HOEKSTRA
34 | AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER Welcome to Argentina — the land of Malbec.
Experts’ tips on how to make that perfect cocktail at home.
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SUMMER 2020 3
LETTER FROM THE WINE EDITOR
WWW.QUENCH.ME EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Aldo Parise editor@quench.me WINE EDITOR
Gurvinder Bhatia gbhatia@quench.me MANAGING EDITOR
Lisa Hoekstra lhoekstra@quench.me CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
Tod Stewart tstewart@quench.me COLUMNISTS
Tony Aspler, Craig Pinhey, Christine Sismondo, Robin LeBlanc CONTRIBUTORS
W Blake Grey, Lisa Hoekstra, Michael Apstein, Tim Pawsey
THE ENVIRONMENT IS A HOT TOPIC. INCREASED GREENHOUSE GAS EMISSIONS, RISING GLOBAL TEMPERATURES AND WATER LEVELS, DROUGHT CONDITIONS, WILDFIRES, ERRATIC WEATHER EVENTS AND MELTING GLACIERS ARE NO LONGER CONCERNS FOR ENVIRONMENTAL ACTIVISTS ONLY. The global climate crisis is
a ubiquitous subject in the run up to political elections; environmental concerns permeate the corporate world. But let us not be naïve: corporations are not altruistic. Corporations will only act if taking steps to reduce their carbon footprint will translate to greater profits, particularly if they risk losing customers through lack of action. The wine industry is no different. The environment has been a major topic at almost every industry conference and gathering of the past couple of years. Subjects have included how the climate change is affecting the wine industry and how industry players can reduce their carbon footprint. University of Chicago economist Milton Friedman impactfully wrote in the New York Times in 1970 that “there is one and only one social responsibility of business — to use its resources and engage in activities designed to increase its profits.” (Quote taken from Friedman’s book Capitalism and Freedom.) The predominant measure of success for businesses is the maximization of shareholder value, i.e., profit. But to affect positive change substantively, perhaps we need to redefine the way corporate success is measured. Is it not time for social responsibility in the wine industry to evolve beyond Friedman’s doctrine? Some obvious considerations for wineries are improving farming practices, and reducing their carbon footprint, water usage, wine bottle weight and impact of global shipping. Responsibilities should also extend to how a winery treats its employees, its practices with respect to diversity, inclusion and transparency, its impacts on the local community and its contributions to its customers’ wellbeing. Sustainability must be viewed with a broad lens. The responsibility for change does not just lie with corporations. In fact, the catalyst for change lies with you. Only when consumers speak en masse and support businesses that exhibit an evolved concept of success will we start to see real change. 4 SUMMER 2020
COVER ILLUSTRATION
Elvis Deane
TASTERS
Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Michelle Bouffard, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Tim Pawsey, Michaela Morris, Jordan St. John, Brie Dema and Jonathan Smithe CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Elvis Deane COPY DESK
Holland Gidney, Ellie Lord
CREATIVE BY PARIS ASSOCIATES PRODUCTION
WebFree, Designs In Response PHOTOGRAPHY
Push/Stop, Free Bird
Quench, Food and Drink Magazine, (founded in 1972) is a registered trademark of Kylix Media. It is published 8 times a year: (Janauary/February, March/April, May/June, July/August, September, October, November, Best of 2020) and distributes over 50,000 copies across North America.
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ONE WEEKEND. D E C AD E S O F H I S T O RY. APRIL 17 – 19, 2020
NIAGARA IN FOLDER Join us for a weekend-long celebration of the Niagara-on-the-Lake appellation and its terroir. This April unearth what makes our wines so special and participate in one-of-a-kind experiences only found in the birthplace of modern Canadian winemaking. Visit wineriesofniagaraonthelake.com for more information and to purchase tickets. Use promo code QUENCH10 for 10% off your ticket price
wineriesofniagaraonthelake.com
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@NiagaraWine
@NiagaraWine / #DigOurRoots
LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO
HOLY STICK! Have you heard about palo santo? Even if you aren’t familiar with the name, this wood is so popular that you have probably smelled its smoke somewhere.
Essentially incense, palo santo (“Holy Stick”) is an aromatic wood from the tropical bursera graveolens tree that grows in a number of forests in Central and South America, where it is used in some indigenous cleansing ceremonies. Thanks to the popularity of the global wellness culture, it has now made its way to North America, where it is used to ward off negative energy, relieve stress and anxiety, and restore tranquillity. That is all well and good, but what about its use in beverages? Recently, I received a cocktail recipe that included palo santo syrup and wondered why anyone would ever want incense in their cocktail. To find out, I spoke to Lija Said, whose passion is healthful, botanical cocktails. The one-time Torontonian recently moved to West Hollywood to open up “plant-powered” restaurant Fresh Los Angeles: a dream come true for bartenders who focus on wellness. Said says she became a little obsessed with palo santo when she travelled to South America and started dreaming up ways to use it in cocktails. “People are always talking about aromatics in cocktails. I thought it would be great to use palo santo, since it offers so many benefits, even through its odour. Plus, its pine, mint and lemon notes tie right into cocktails.” Said has seen the wood used for syrup or tea, but she uses it for its aroma. For a Pisco cocktail competition, she made a drink with longan berries (similar to lychee), then filled one of the hollowed-out berry shells with palo santo slivers. Inspired by Flaming Tiki garnishes, she topped the glass with the skewered shell and lit the palo santo. Not only did it complement the flavours in her longan-pisco cocktail, it made the whole room smell like South America. And it netted her first prize. Said obviously loves the ingredient but is concerned that it is becoming a victim of its own success: “There has been such high demand for palo santo that two of the three varietals are now on the endangered list, which is something to be aware of.” The third tree could also be threatened if people are not careful. Said recommends researching the source carefully to make an informed, ecological choice and avoid supporting illegal tree logging. She added: “There are a few different companies in northern South America, like Ecuadorian Hands, that harvest trees but also plant 3,000 of them a year.” 6 SUMMER 2020
Making palo santo syrup is pretty simple. The recipe I have advises lightly toasting the stick on a barbecue, adding it to a cup each of sugar and water, and heating it all up. Leave it to infuse overnight, then strain, bottle and refrigerate. Or, you could take a page out of Lija Said’s book and use the wood for its aromatic qualities. Fill a lime or longan berry husk with palo santo and place it on top of this twist on a classic, creamy Batida.
SMOKE ON THE COCONUT WATER
1 2 2 1/2 1/2
oz sweetened condensed milk oz coconut water oz Peruvian Pisco oz longan berry juice* oz lime juice
FOR GARNISH:
1/2 tsp palo santo shards 1 hollowed out berry or lime husk
Add condensed milk, coconut water, Pisco and both juices to an ice-filled shaker and shake well for 45 seconds. Strain into an ice-filled rocks glass and garnish with smoking palo santo. * Cannot find longan berries? This is a pretty forgiving recipe. Swap them for a little citrus. × × VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/MIXED/ FOR MORE DRINK RECIPES
River X AD to Vine
DEAKIN IN FOLDER
Deakin Estate wines are crafted from family owned vineyards that lie in the Murray Darling region of Australia. Here, the river weaves across the land, bringing life to our vines. Rich, fertile soils and a warm, sunny climate create a perfect environment for growing quality fruit to make these delicious wines.
MUST TRY CRAIG PINHEY
GROUNDBREAKING Yip. Its name and the face on the cider’s colourful labels come from Yip Mackay. In 1964, he bought the farm adjacent to his father’s camp and started planting apple trees. Yip always made his own cider and would share it with family and neighbouring farms. His son, Chas, took over the family orchard in 1980, and the family has continued its tradition of apple farming and cider making ever since. Officially launched in 2017, Yip’s original bone-dry cider quickly became well respected, and the family started modernizing production methods. “Trellises are the new norm for apple orchards, so we’re trying them out in our new orchard,” explains Chas’s son Joe, head cidermaker. “Efficiency is the main reason for this planting style.” Although this method comes with a much higher upfront cost, it yields apples in three years rather than eight. “Production is faster because the smaller rootstock trees focus their energy on growing fruit, not wood,” he explains. “Trellis rootstocks, known as dwarf rootstocks, are held up by the trellis system. Not only does it produce fruit earlier, it also requires 8 SUMMER 2020
less maintenance as the apples are easier to prune and harvest. These trees are not as big as the ones in old orchards on semi-standard rootstocks.” “Trellis systems are not commonly used for growing only cider apples, and orchards exclusively for cider apples are not common in our region. Here, most ciders are produced from apples that get rejected on the sorting line for grocery stores.” Yip’s high density orchard is young, which makes it difficult to envision. “We will prune the trees to promote a central leader, which will reach the top wire of the trellis,” Joe explains. “After about three years, once the tree is full height, we will let the trees produce fruit. This helps to ensure the tree puts its energy towards growing and not producing fruit right away. Once the orchard is mature it will look like long apple hedges.” The Yip family chose apple varieties strictly for cider production. They include Golden Russet, and varieties from the United Kingdom, such as Dabinette, Kingston Black and Bulmers Norman. “Golden Russet is great for cider,” says Joe. “It has grown here for a long time. It has good sugar, tannins and flavour.” They already produce a delicious single varietal Golden Russet cider, but supply is limited. “The UK apples will provide some different tannins. We will use them to make unique ciders that will really expand peoples’ cider palates.” The notion of terroir is key to the wine world, and it is also important for cider. “An orchard’s terroir dictates the apple varieties that can be grown,” explains Joe. “Our region is great for growing hardy apples, which we like to use for cider. Our orchard has an even better growing environment than the rest of New Brunswick since it is located on the Saint John River — a little microclimate within the province. Our new orchard slopes southeast, which is good for capturing the morning sun to dry up the foliage early in the day.” Like planting a new vineyard for wine, the hardest part is waiting for the plants to produce. In three to four years, we will know how this new approach affects Yip’s ciders. I am sure Yip would be impressed. ×
LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC
BEER & CHEESE: WHAT A CONCEPT! OF THE MANY INDULGENCES I ENJOY A BIT TOO MUCH, NOTHING RANKS HIGHER THAN CHEESE. At parties, I
shamelessly make a beeline towards the cheese plate. I am lucky enough to live by a deli in Toronto with a fantastic selection of cheesy comestibles for my enjoyment. But cheese does not have to be enjoyed on its own. Like most foods, cheese can often be elevated when paired with beer. I am not talking about your classic beer-cheese dipping sauce for pretzels. Brie, blue cheese, caveaged Gruyère, goat cheese and even Parmigiano-Reggiano can pair well with a good beer. The basic steps for pairing beer and cheese are similar to those for pairing beer with any food. The first step is to match the flavour of the cheese with the style of the beer. Delicately flavoured light cheeses like mozzarella or goat cheese, for instance, would be well at home with beers of a similar intensity, like pale lagers or saisons.
The next step is to decide whether you want to complement or contrast the flavours in your cheese. Say you have a six-month-old Manchego on hand for a party. A beer like Black Oak Brewing Co.’s Nut Brown Ale would perfectly complement the cheese’s caramel and nutty flavours. A beer with sharp acidic notes like Sawdust City Brewing Co.’s Coriolis Effect Berliner Weisse would work well to contrast, say, a sweet creamy Havarti. If you follow those basic steps and experiment a bit, you will soon be able to up your cheese plate game with a selection of fine beers. Here are a few of my favourite pairings to get you started.
GOAT CHEESE: BENCH BREWING CO. TWENTY MILE FARMHOUSE Named after the Twenty Mile Creek stream that runs through the farms, orchards and vineyards of Niagara’s Twenty Valley, this
beer has subtle notes of honey, lemon and pepper that will only work to enhance the rich, creamy base of a quality goat cheese.
CHEDDAR: WALKERVILLE BREWERY GERONIMO IPA High fat cheeses like cheddar often benefit from something bitter that can cut through their texture. For that, I usually go with a good IPA. The orange, grapefruit and pine flavours cut through a cheddar of any age, while the earthy, sweet flavours of the malt backbone enhance the cheese’s flavour.
GRUYÈRE: PROPELLER BREWERY ESB This Swiss cheese benefits from the accompaniment of some dark, sophisticated beers that bring out its sweet, salty or slightly nutty notes and celebrate its texture. This ESB has notes of toffee, molasses, plums and biscuit, which join forces to enhance the Gruyère. × SUMMER 2020 9
A NEW SCENE by Tim Pawsey
Winery dining in BC has never looked — nor tasted — so good. In the past couple of years, a number of flagship Okanagan and Similkameen locations have helped take the region to the next level. In fact, I’m tempted to use that too often flaunted “world-class” reference. But, in lieu of that, let’s just say that Okanagan winery dining (and elsewhere) rivals that found in any other leading wine region around the world. Much of the talent is homegrown, though a recent influx of chefs and sommeliers from the coast and other parts of Canada has brought new impetus to the scene. No question, Vancouver’s stratospheric real estate values and climbing cost of living have also played a role. Indeed, Vancouver’s loss, as often as not, is the Okanagan’s gain. Overall, throughout the valleys, there’s a real sense of adventure and rejuvenation in the air. No matter where you look, it seems another new restaurant has emerged. Not only that but also, without exception, the locations are magnificent, often boasting panoramic lake vistas and more.
North Okanagan BLOCK ONE AT 50TH PARALLEL ESTATE
The lakeshore journey up from Kelowna is the perfect primer for this dazzling, modernist space clad in warm woods, steel and expansive glass to make the most of the setting that, truly, brings the outside in. The award-winning design features a cantilevered roof and the restaurant morphs easily from an outdoor patio to a more enclosed and warmer inside space. Even though the restaurant only opened in 2018, it’s already emerged as a destination. Its name pays homage to the original 10 SUMMER 2020
vineyard block planted by owners Curtis and Sheri-Lee Turner-Krouzel in 2009. On the plate, Chef Kai Koroll (who previously worked at Cactus Club under Executive Chef Rob Feenie) focuses on local ingredients, many of which are grown in the on-site, one-acre garden. The chef’s plates are eclectic but well designed to offer smart pairings to the winery’s mainstays: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling and Pinot Gris. A definite feather in his cap, Chef Koroll scooped up top spot at the 2019 Canada’s Great Kitchen Party – Kelowna, earning the opportunity to compete at the 2020 Canadian Culinary Championships. The always energetic and very hands-on Turner-Krouzels — arguably among the valley’s most dynamic and fun-loving owners and consummate hosts — are often found in the dining room. A bonus is the complimentary shuttle service from Predator Ridge, Lakestone and downtown Kelowna or other locations for groups of 12 or more. MATCH: Truffled potato gnocchi with Parmesan foam and wild mushrooms & 50th Parallel Estate Pinot Noir 2017.
Central Okanagan HOME BLOCK RESTAURANT AT CEDARCREEK
CedarCreek is nearing completion of significant renovations and expansion undertaken since being purchased by Von Mandl Family Estates in 2014. The centrepiece is the recently opened Home Block Restaurant, which pays tribute to the winery’s pioneering heritage (it was one of the original dozen in the valley) wrapped in quiet modernism. Beams and other features include repurposed 100-year-old barn wood, a soaring ceiling
and a fieldstone wall, plus a spacious patio and panoramic lake views across the lake. Ruling the room is an open kitchen, with a wood-fired grill fed by apple and cherry woods as well as used seasoned barrel staves. Chef Neil Taylor (ex-Vancouver’s España, Cibo and others) employs a quietly sophisticated “terroir to table” style that allows locally sourced ingredients to shine through. Highlights range from roasted squash risotto with rapini, caciocavallo cheese, rosemary and lemon to slow-cooked pork cheeks with polenta and red-wine-braised cabbage. CedarCreek (which already raises chickens and has its own bee hives) recently purchased an adjacent, higher 100 acres that will soon be home to a small farm, in addition to new vineyards. In time, the farm will be very much part of the winery’s overall sustainability mantra, supplying meats and other ingredients to the restaurant. Currently all food waste is given to the chickens and processed by some 16 worm farms, with the resulting castings being distributed in the vineyards. MATCH: Roasted bacon-wrapped rabbit saddle stuffed with black pudding, Moorish spiced lentils and Mojo Rojo & CedarCreek Platinum Hayne Creek Syrah 2017.
Similkameen Valley ROW FOURTEEN AT KLIPPERS ORGANICS
Just off Highway 3, in Cawston, beautifully conceived and executed, Row Fourteen has quickly become a destination room for the Similkameen Valley and surrounding area. Kevin and Annamarie Klippenstein own Klippers Organics and divide their time between Cawston and Vancouver, where they
CHEF DEREK GRAY FROM ROW FOURTEEN AT KLIPPERS ORGANICS
sell their produce in season at the Trout Lake and West End farmers’ markets. Nestled right in the heart of the orchards, the spacious open-plan dining and cider-tasting room looks out onto the orchards beyond. The look and feel is polished but still comfortably rustic. At the entrance is a small tasting bar featuring Klippers’ Untangled Craft Cider, also available for off-sales purchasing. During the day, the main dining area is bathed in natural light, while a north-facing patio with a large overhang offers protection from extreme summertime heat. The decor is defined by high ceilings and cedar beams and plenty of wood trim that glows warmly at night. The open kitchen features a wood-fired grill, which burns apple wood (for flavour) and fir (for heat). To date, it’s the valley’s first and only cider-driven restaurant. However, the wine list is very Similkameen focused, featuring most of the surrounding wineries (such as Corcelettes, Robin Ridge, Vanessa, Little Farm, Orofino, Seven Stones and Clos du Soleil), who have been quick to lend their support. With plenty of space — as well as good food — Row Fourteen is already in demand for meetings and other local business needs. Chef Derek Gray (who was the opening chef at Vancouver’s immensely successful Savio Volpe and then Pepino’s) makes the most of the natural bounty and wealth of local organic ingredients on one of the most genuine “regional-seasonal” menus anywhere. (The Similkameen Valley has the highest percentage of organic production of anywhere in Canada.) Dishes change by the week based very much on what’s locally available. Mainstays are likely to include pork sausage with roasted onions, grainy mustard and roasting juices; dry-aged top sirloin with spinach and leek aioli, coal-roasted beets and carrots; venison ragu tartine and plenty more. With its spotlight on all things local, including ciders and wines, Row Fourteen adds up to a worthy celebration of the Similkameen — and also offers accommodations from which to further explore the valley. MATCH: Barley, lentils, farro and Marquis wheat berries with pumpkin seeds, fire-roasted squash and chanterelles & Klippers Untangled Craft Cider Newtown.
South Okanagan THE BEAR, THE FISH, THE ROOT & THE BERRY; SPIRIT RIDGE LAKE RESORT AT NK’MIP CELLARS
The name is a direct testament to the four food chiefs of the Syilx people — black bear, Chinook salmon, bitterroot, and Saskatoon berry — all of which denote the key elements of Indigenous cuisine. It’s also a welcome reminder that the Osoyoos Indian Band (part of the Okanagan Nation Alliance) is majority owner of Spirit Ridge Lake Resort and Nk’Mip Cellars. Under the leadership of Chef Murray McDonald, the restaurant has been rebranded and now charts a firm course that (finally) truly acknowledges its place in Indigenous culture. Chef McDonald (who has cooked in prime properties around the world) won broad acclaim as founding executive chef at Newfoundland’s much celebrated Fogo Island Inn. And the pas-
sion that fuelled his success there is readily apparent in his latest role. McDonald’s menu is “Indigenous inspired” — he himself loves to forage, often making new connections with local artisans. The mood is refreshingly unpretentious, with many dishes sporting descriptions that reflect the chef’s infectious humour at play — the menu also stays true, with emphasis throughout on Indigenous ingredients. Mainstays roam from a generous Rangeland bison steak, with juniper ash sea salt, sweet potato fondant, onion jam and yam purée to rabbit pasta to juniper-brushed duck breast with duck bacon, beets and berries to bison pemmican with honey mousse. As a hotel restaurant (now partnered with Hyatt), the room is open all day and offers noteworthy breakfast and lunch, as well as a children’s menu. MATCH: Wild salmon with “skaha-scouse” (stew) of side striped prawns, clams, sweet potatoes, tomato, beans, wild rice and grilled loaf & Nk’Mip Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay 2017. × SUMMER 2020 11
BEYOND … by Tod Stewart
“Do one thing really well.” It’s a mantra that some have built careers on. Like those sushi masters who are so committed to their craft that they spend years just learning how to properly prepare rice before they are even allowed to look at a fish. Such commitment takes patience, to a level that would result in most of us actually being committed. The wine world has its own specialists. If you’re practising viniculture in France’s Côte-d’Or region, for example, you’ll be specializing in making white wines from Chardonnay and reds from Pinot Noir. You’ll be doing this because you know these varieties make some of the most coveted wines in the world. And because French wine laws won’t allow you to grow anything else. Which is why many Old World winemakers look with some degree of envy at the flexibility typically provided to New World producers when it comes to decisions on what to plant. Winemakers in places like, say, Argentina, face far fewer restrictions than their French counterparts when it comes to what grapes to plant and, indirectly, what style of wine to make. Yet, in spite of this, most wineries that have reached a level of international success have done so with wines made with pretty much the same grape: Malbec. As the representa12 SUMMER 2020
tive grape of a country’s wine industry, Malbec is a bit of a curious choice. Even in its native France, and in any region outside of Cahors, it’s barely given any consideration. Be that as it may, Argentina’s winemakers have embraced the variety and proven that, by choosing optimum vineyard locations — typically at fairly high elevations — and experimenting with clonal variations, truly fine wines can be realized. While many winemakers — especially those in the Mendoza region — are content to refine their Malbec-based wines, others are setting their sights on other varieties planted in different soil. “We are sure that we can show there is much more Argentina can offer than just Malbec,” asserts Julián Iñarra Iraegui, Commercial Director for Proemio Wines. “The region we are in — Maipú — from my understanding, is the best region for growing Cabernet Sauvignon. We also make wines from Petit Verdot,
Syrah and Grenache, and Cabernet Franc.” Iraegui says that what Proemio is looking to do is “deconstruct and reconstruct” classic French blends, offering wines that are both single-varietal expressions and blends featuring those same grapes. He says the winery’s style is “more French.” “We avoid over-extraction and the heavy use of oak. We import our barrels from France, and we are also using some barrels that are made from tree branches rather than trunks. We are the first winery to use these in Argentina.” Tasting through a range of Proemio wines with Iraegui, I’m impressed by the complexity, poise and refinement of the wines crafted by French-thinking (though of Italian descent) Marcelo Bocardo. “Marcelo loves blends,” Iraegui confirms when asked whether Malbec might be better as part of a blend than as a single varietal. Though the winery makes a couple of 100 percent Malbec wines, Iraegui admits that the winery “loves Cabernets.” Indeed, the Proemio Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2016, with its aromas of tobacco, blackcurrant, mint, pepper and dark plum, more than adequately showed the potential of this grape variety. Juicy and dense, it was nonetheless perfectly balanced and elegant, with a hint of spice intermingling with the chewy cassis fruit. However, things got really interesting (at least for me) with the pouring of two award-winning Proemio blends. The Gran Reserve 2014, a mix of 50 percent Malbec and 40 percent Cabernet Sauvignon (the remainder being Syrah and Grenache) delivered a master class in sophistication, with smoky, rich dark berry and violet-tinged aromatics giving way to intense, graphite-laced black fruit nuances. Upping the ante another notch, the Icono 2013 displayed a captivating flavour tapestry that seamlessly wove together mint/menthol, liquorice and hints of black pepper with complex layers of blueberry, camphor and blackberry. Proof of the viability of grape blends — and of Bocardo’s skill in crafting them — could easily start, and end, with this wine. Martin Palacio, Export Manager for the La Riojana co-operative, is also a “believer” when it comes to colouring outside the 100 percent Malbec lines — and outside of Mendoza’s boundaries. Touring Canada along with winemaker Leonardo Mauricio Manzano, he’s here to promote La Riojana’s new Believer line of wines that are crafted in the La Rioja region 600 kilometres northwest of Mendoza.
BODEGA NORTON WINEMAKER DAVID BONOMI
“We look at the sales statistics for the Argentina category in Canada and see Malbec, Malbec, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon. And maybe a few Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon blends,” Palacio confirms. “But you don’t find, for instance, a Malbec Syrah. Malbec Syrah is an excellent blend.” Manzano points out that Malbec certainly has power and backbone, but in marrying it with Syrah, you enhance the aromatics and overall structure, boost the complexity and showcase the characteristics of the fruit rather than simply the impact of oak. Indeed, the Believer Organic Red is certainly fruit-forward, with bright black cherry/liquorice/toasted nut aromas and a plush, ripe palate of Morello cherry and suggestions of nougat. ANOTHER GRAPE PALACIO PLACES A LOT OF FAITH IN, PARTICULARLY FOR BLENDS, IS BONARDA. Though it’s Ar-
gentina’s second most widely planted black grape variety, it’s basically unknown to most consumers outside Argentina — at least in comparison to Malbec. However, if you happen to be KaSUMMER 2020 13
ALAMOS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018 ($16)
A Mendoza Cabernet Sauvignon that shows a typical cassis/blackberry nose with a hint of vanilla/oak. Quite rich, round and balanced in spite of its relative youth, it tails off with a dash of pepper along with some lingering, sweet blackberry undertones. AMALAYA MALBEC 2017 ($18)
Labelled as Malbec, it actually combines 85% Malbec, with 10% Tannat and 5% Petit Verdot. Interesting. Prominent blueberry aromatics, with earthy/smoky/mineral suggestions, it’s mid-weight, with black raspberry flavours, enhanced by mineral notes.
ward, black cherry/blueberry jam nose, combined with coffee bean, new leather and nutmeg. Supple in the mouth, with flavours that mimic the wine’s aromas. MASI CORBEC 2015 ($25)
A blend of Corvina and Malbec from the Uco Valley fermented using Masi’s double-fermentation appassimento method. The resulting wine is powerful without being over-the-top or gloopy. There’s a whiff of nutmeg and cinnamon among the dark plum, cedar and eucalyptus notes. Lots of depth and ripeness in the mouth, it nonetheless sports a certain elegance. NORTON PRIVADA FAMILY BLEND 2016 ($25)
ARGENTO CABERNET FRANC 2016 ($19)
Aromatically, this 100% Cabernet Franc delivers full-on blackberry, white pepper and some mild earthy/leather notes. Fairly subtle in the mouth, with restrained black raspberry and mineral flavours.
A blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot sourced from 50- to 90-year-old vines in the Luján de Cuyo area. Chocolate-covered cherries on the nose, with a smattering of blueberry, cocoa powder, thyme and bay leaf. Elegant and balanced in the mouth, the flavours are redolent of currant jam and mocha, with a slight smokiness.
CALLIA ALTA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018 ($14)
This Cab from the Tulum Valley in the province of San Juan clocks in with a retail price in Ontario of under 10 bucks. Frankly, I wasn’t expecting much. What I got pleasantly exceeded expectations. Bright floral, menthol, graphite nuances segue into a layered and balanced flavour profile with some rich, mildly spicy dark fruit and traces of cigar box. CATENA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017 ($20)
This Mendoza Cab from one of the country’s legendary winemakers delivers forward aromatics suggesting cocoa powder, graphite, smoke and dried herbs. Rich, robust, chewy and dense, with loads of ripe blackcurrant flavours laced with dried herbs, milk chocolate and mint. Long finish. CONDOR PEAK CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE 2017 ($15)
Classic Cabernet Sauvignon aromas of blackberry, coffee bean, leather and some subtle spice distinguish this Mendoza example. Soft, supple and easy-drinking. Maybe not packed with complexity, but with a price tag of just over 10 bucks in some markets, it certainly delivers more than what you pay for. KAIKEN ULTRA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017 ($20)
Those who like their red wines big and bold will certainly gravitate to this muscular — and still youthful — Cabernet Sauvignon. Though the sweet tannins are evident, the overall balance is indisputable, with layers of opulent, super-ripe chocolate-coated cherry flavours swirling around and surrounded by minty/mineral/cassis nuances. LA CELIA MALBEC CABERNET FRANC RESERVA 2017 ($15)
Eugenio Bustos, having brought the first Malbec vines to Mendoza’s Uco Valley, founded La Celia winery in 1890. This Malbec Cabernet Franc blend sports an intensely fruit-for14 SUMMER 2020
SALENTEIN NUMINA GRAN CORTE 2015 ($40)
Comprised of 68% Malbec, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 7% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Three French hens, two turtle doves and a partridge in a pear tree. Sorry, couldn’t help it. Anyway, all this fruit is sourced from the El Oasis estate, which rises between 1,080 and 1,200 metres above sea level. In any case, it all works. Its relatively complex nose displays leather, cassis, bramble, vanilla bean and some char/tar elements. It’s elegant, balanced, complex and concentrated, with saturated black fruit nuances. SEPTIMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017 ($18)
A fairly powerful Mendoza Cabernet that offers up plenty of saturated dark berry aromas enhanced with some herbal/ earthy notes and just a whisper of lead pencil, leather and toasty/spicy oak. Mid-weight and full-flavoured, with nice interplay between ripe fruit, a slight earthy/smokiness and well-integrated tannins. WAPISA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016 ($20)
A Patagonian Cabernet from the Los Acantilados Estate planted close to the Atlantic Ocean. Forward currant fruit combines with some savoury/herbal/anise undertones. Poised and quite refined, with well-integrated tannins, a midweight profile and flavours suggesting slightly earthy, mineral-tinged blackberry/plum jam, with hints of dried herbs. ZUCCARDI Q CABERNET FRANC 2017 ($19)
Many of Argentina’s winemakers are championing Cabernet Franc as the “next thing” in the country’s red wine evolution. Zuccardi’s Q version certainly lends credence to the grape’s potential. Characteristic bell pepper scents intermingle with coffee bean, eucalyptus/menthol and fresh cherry. Delicately spicy, it delivers fresh acidity, velvety tannins and bright, vibrant red fruit.
LUCÍA VAIERETTI, WINEMAKER AT ALAMOS
tarina O’Reilly-Ryan or Gord Ryan, you definitely have a strong interest in seeing Bonarda get more exposure. The couple’s introduction to the world of wine — and to Bonarda — is about as “fairly tale” as things get in the real world. Both Newfoundlanders, in 1999 they decided to take a break from the norm and do some travelling. These travels took them all over Australia and New Zealand, and eventually to a family-owned vineyard in Australia’s famed McLaren Vale. Practically immediately, the couple decided to pursue wine as a career. On their way back to Newfoundland, they stopped on Vancouver Island … and stayed there. However, as much as they wanted to invest in a winemaking operation in British Columbia, a number of factors sent them searching elsewhere. That search ended in 2009 when they purchased a vineyard in Argentina, about two hours south of the city of Mendoza. Then-owner Carlos Gomez Bourras and Ryan connected over a vision of creating top-calibre wines. In 2011, the first vintage was produced under the Chayee Bourras label. All well and good (and pretty amazing when you think about it), but why Bonarda in the heart of Malbec country? “Why Bonarda? In our case, the Bonarda vines were the oldest on the property when we purchased the vineyard,” O’Reilly-Ryan reveals. “It grows the best in the world in Mendoza, but especially in San Rafael. And, in our humble opinion, it produces some of the finest wine to come out of Argentina. It is our firm belief that Bonarda will surpass Malbec as far as interest and sales in the not too distant future. I’d bet on it!” Probably a decent bet if the Chayee Bourras numbers are any indication. The Chayee Bourras Bonarda 2013 is jammed full of
mineral-tinged bramble, bright strawberry and floral aromas and flavours. The Chayee Bourras Bonarda Reserva 2012 ups the ante considerably in terms of smokiness, weight and overall complexity. It may be stretching things to say that it’s the regular Bonarda on steroids, but the additional six months’ aging in French and American oak — and the 14.5 percent alcohol level — certainly adds power and density. Great packaging on both wines to boot! Does all the interest in new varietals and blends mean that Malbec is destined to be “yesterday’s grape,” in the eyes of Argentina’s vignerons? Unlikely. Marcos Fernandez, winemaker from Mendoza’s Doña Paula winery, feels that Malbec will remain important and will continue to refine itself. “The focus on Malbec really started in the late 1990s and continues today,” he informs. “But now, many young winemakers are crafting a new style of Malbec. This change in style started a few years ago, and now we can offer great Malbec wines from high-altitude vineyards that are very fresh, with excellent, vibrant acidity and without intervention from oak aging. The next step, in my opinion, is to keep focusing on the new-style Malbecs, as well as the great Cabernet Francs from Uco Valley, and also Petit Verdot and Bonarda from Luján de Cuyo.” Fernandez’s Doña Paula 1350 Red Blend 2015 — which combines Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Casavecchia fruit sourced from vineyards situated 1350 metres above sea level — certainly shows the beauty of blends, with super-intense aromas of smoky, tarry violet, dark chocolate and wet slate that give way to a dense, chewy palate with enough balanced tannin to reward considerable aging. From what I’ve been tasting lately, the new Argentinian red wine revolution is just beginning. × SUMMER 2020 15
IF IT AIN’T BROKE, DON’T FIX IT by Michael Apstein
It’s an unusual way to sell anything and seems doomed to fail: ask consumers to pay in advance for goods still in production that they haven’t examined and won’t be delivered to them for two years. But that’s exactly what the Bordelais do. Consumers pay now for unfinished wines they haven’t tasted that are delivered to them (hopefully) in two years. Amazingly, over the years, it’s been hugely successful system.
It’s unique. Every March, thousands of people — wine critics, journalists, professional wine buyers — from all over the world descend on Bordeaux to taste barrel samples of wines that have finished their fermentation barely six months earlier. Producers must still blend the wines made from the individual grapes — principally, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc — and perform the élevage, or barrel aging and maturation, before bottling. The critics and buyers taste what the producers describe as “representative samples,” that is, a blend of the different varieties that they think approximates the final blend. Those tasting make critical assessments and buying decisions based on sampling unfinished wines. It’s comparable to analyzing a few frames of a motion picture and predicting the outcome. Nowhere else in the world does such an assessment of wines occur. Many areas of Italy host preview tastings, such as Anteprime di Toscana, where attendees assess the new vintage of Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, among others. But at those events, critics and buyers are evaluating finished, bottled wines. The nearest equivalent, and it’s not really close to what occurs in Bordeaux, happens at Vente des Vins, also known as the Hospices de Beaune auction in Burgundy. In Beaune, attendees taste barrel samples of the new vintage, buy the particular barrel of wine that they like, take delivery of it within weeks and then arrange with a firm to perform the élevage. There’s no “representative sample” and no wondering what the final blend may be. So why does the Bordelais system work? A look at its history helps explain. 16 SUMMER 2020
Historically, the Bordeaux wine trade was split between aristocratic producers who owned châteaux in the countryside and négociants, located in central Bordeaux, who aged and then sold the wines. Courtiers, or brokers, shuttled wine samples from countryside to city by horseback in this pre-industrial age. Brokers were useful and earned their commission by supplying information about new properties or changes at existing ones, in addition to delivering samples. It’s a system that worked well because the landed gentry did not need to “soil” themselves with what they considered the less savory aspect of the business — the sales. Négociants would buy in barrel all of the production châteaux had to sell, complete the élevage, bottle the wine themselves and sell it to their customers — importers and wholesalers around the world. However, since 1967, winegrowers must bottle Crus classés at the château, and complete the élevage and bottle the wines themselves. Yet they still sell the resulting product to Bordeaux-based négociants. This commercial network, called La Place de Bordeaux, usually worked extremely well for the producers because it generated cash flow: they would sell their wine soon after harvest instead of waiting for two years. Though sometimes producers — especially those strapped for cash — would wind up selling wine at a lower price than what could have been obtained when the true stature of the vintage was appreciated, two years down the road. That said, producers usually did not have — and some still do not have — sufficient underground cellar space to store their wine, whereas négociants, with their deep and convoluted
cellars in Bordeaux, where the water table is lower, do. Négociants, and others in the distribution chain, eventually make their profit when they sell the bottled wine to the consumer. Prior to the mid-20th century, the Place de Bordeaux operated solely between producers and négociants. Consumers in the U.S. and the U.K. got involved in 1966 when Lay & Wheeler in London and Zachys Wine & Liquor in Scarsdale, NY, began selling wine futures, or vin en primeur, according to Benjamin Lewin, MW, in his fine 2009 book, What Price Bordeaux? (Unlike buying futures on the commodities exchange, the consumer who buys wine futures wants to take delivery.) ONE INDICATION OF CONSUMER INVOLVEMENT, ACCORDING TO LEWIN, CAME IN 1978 WHEN PLACE DE BORDEAUX PRICES CHANGED FROM BEING QUOTED BY THE BARREL TO BY THE BOTTLE. Stephen Brook, a British wine writer who has forgotten
more about Bordeaux than most people know, attributes the surge in consumer interest in Bordeaux wines to the enthusiasm generated by the wine press — primarily Robert M. Parker, Jr. writing about the 1982 vintage in The Wine Advocate. As described by Brook in his 2007 book, The Complete Bordeaux — The Wines — The Châteaux — The People, Parker’s early wild enthusiasm for the vintage combined with the strong dollar at the time caused a frenzy of en primeur buying in the U.S. The last real whirl of en primeur buying in the U.S. was likely for the 2000 vintage, which had the distinction of being the first of the new millennium and the first where there was price transparency secondary to the Internet.
So, what’s in it for the consumer today? The two major advantages to the consumer are obtaining the wine that you want and having it delivered to your cellar as soon as it’s available. Despite the relatively large annual production of the Crus classés, many do sell out, especially some of the best and most acclaimed small Right Bank châteaux. In heralded vintages, supplies decrease rapidly. With the emphasis on selection of only the best batches to make ever better Grand Vins, the amount of wine selected for the standard bearer has dropped, while the quantities of second and third wines has risen. For example, in the early part of this century, Château Ducru Beaucaillou, one of the so-called Super Seconds, produced 15 to 20 thousand cases of its first wine. Currently, they produce half that amount. During the same period, its production of a second wine doubled. There’s no reason to think that this trend will disappear, so expect supplies of the Grand vins to continue to decrease. As importantly, buying en primeur assures the customer of provenance. There’s no question about storage. Sure, the wine can still be damaged during shipment, but at least there’s no worry that it sat in a non-temperature-controlled warehouse for years. My main advice for those planning on buying Bordeaux futures is to do so through a reliable retailer, one who has done it successfully for years. This is one time when searching the Internet for the lowest price does not make the most sense. As Lewin notes, “a risk for the consumer is that the supply chain from the château can have several intermediaries; there is always a possibility one may fail before delivery.” You want to be certain you’re dealing with someone who will either find the wine for you if their supplier fails to deliver it to them or, at the very least, refund your money. I’m neither an economist nor a financial advisor, so determining whether buying en primeur is a good idea as an investment is above my pay grade. I’ve read arguments from both sides. That said, the idea of buying a perishable commodity that needs careful storage and then reselling it at auction has never made sense to me. I’ve purchased plenty of Bordeaux en primeur for myself, but never as an investment. Though it’s truly a liquid asset, it’s not one that can be turned into cash quickly or easily. Even if consumers stopped buying en primeur, which seems unlikely given its track record, the system will continue to operate as it has for more than 100 years because it has stood the test of time. You would think that if any château could break out of the system and sell their wines directly, it would be one of the first growths or one of the exalted Super Seconds. But they have not. Château Latour no longer sells its wines en primeur, opting instead to hold them back for a decade when they think the wine is more mature and closer to being ready to drink. However, even then, they still sell via Place de Bordeaux. When I asked producers why they don’t distribute their wines themselves, they uniformly tell me that making wine is one skill and that distributing and selling it is a different one. Despite its shortcomings, Bordeaux’s system still works to the advantage of both producers and négociants. In short, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. × SUMMER 2020 17
THE COMMODITIZATION OF WINE by W Blake Gray Bordeaux’s continuing use of the en primeur system has turned its main product from bottled poetry into an investment vehicle. There’s nothing inherently wrong with that.
I drink wine, and I also buy stocks and mutual funds. A good investor tries to do the latter dispassionately. It doesn’t matter if a drug company donates samples to the poor or jacks up prices when it has a patent monopoly; what matters is the return on investment (ROI). I’m not here to run down capitalism: that’s how it works. That’s what first-growth Bordeaux is now. You won’t find oenophiles drinking it, and that’s reflected in mainstream media coverage of Bordeaux’s annual en primeur sales pitch. People brag about the ROI of buying early, or lament if post-release prices, as with the 2009 and 2010 wines, are actually lower than the en primeur prices. In fact, I’d like to quote Wikipedia for the advantages: “The market has now turned and buying en primeur has become attractive once more. Indeed, those who bought into top wines of the 2014 vintage are now reporting average ROI of +13.4% with the wines soon to be released in bottle.” Bully for you! Thirteen-point-four percent ROI! Why don’t you also tell me about how well your mutual funds are doing? Don’t mind me, I’ll just be drinking this nice British Columbia Bordeaux blend I bought. What’s the ROI? Well, I paid $60 for it and I’m going to drink it right now. So, my ROI is, what, negative infinity? I AM an idiot! You’re so right! And, no, you can’t have any of my wine. If you haven’t heard of en primeur, I envy you. Here’s how it works. Bordeaux’s wineries open their doors for about a week each spring for planned barrel tastings of their nascent vintages. Some of the tastings are convenient groupings of wineries: a big group of, say, Fronsacs in one place. But the top (“first-growth”) wineries don’t participate in these group tastings, so wine writers have to make individual visits to their cellars. There, they can be pampered and flattered while they assign supposedly objective ratings — not blind-tasted of course, since that’s not possible when there’s only one wine to taste. And these ratings ultimately determine how much the wine will sell for. 18 SUMMER 2020
That may sound like a recipe for corruption, but I have met many wine critics and châteaux owners, and I can testify that none of them would ever, well most of them would never ... let’s move on, okay? Bordeaux’s en primeur season has long been a cattle call for wine writers from London, because they can be there in a couple of hours. Until Robert Parker came onto the scene, it was a chummy little English club. People wrote insidery, often indecipherable notes about the vintage (“the ’79s aren’t as precise as the ’78s but they have a certain shaggy charm”), and the upper crust generally bought futures of the same exact wines they had been buying all along. En primeur moved the prices, but not immensely. Side note: hard as it is to believe, there was a time when wine lovers carried a small Bordeaux vintage chart in their wallets. Hahahahaha. We’ll revisit this anachronistic practice later. First, let’s talk about Robert Parker. Parker, a lawyer from Maryland who first produced a photocopied and stapled wine newsletter, boasted that the ’82 Bordeaux, which English critics had panned, were in fact great wines. He applied his 100-point scale and gave these wines very high scores. English critics scoffed. Whatever resistance the Bordelais initially had to this outsider grading their wines like a school paper faded as soon as they saw how much Americans became willing to pay for them. Bordeaux was the first major wine region to accept and even venerate Parker. And why not? He became their greatest salesman, so great that he has been awarded France’s highest national honour, la Croix de chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur. They don’t give out the Croix for writing incisive tasting notes. Parker has maintained a symbiotic relationship with Bordeaux’s châteaux. If he gave a barrel sample a 98, the winery could, and would, jack up the price. If he called it “disappointing” — an increasingly rare event as his career advanced — the winery had to sell at sacrificial prices. At this point, it’s probably worth pointing out that the en primeur system didn’t start off as a vehicle for milking the luxury-wine market.
The concept dates back to the 1600s, when Dutch merchants flush with cash paid grape growers in advance of the harvest. For centuries, vineyard owners in Bordeaux were satisfied with this: they got their money and didn’t have to worry so much about the vagaries of weather. They would pick the grapes and ferment the wine in barrels, but at that point, négociants (dealers) would buy the wine, blend it and bottle it, usually putting their own names on it. IN THE 1920S, BARON PHILIPPE DE ROTHSCHILD THOUGHT THAT HE COULD MAKE MORE MONEY BOTTLING MOUTON-ROTHSCHILD HIMSELF. He would have greater quality con-
trol and, though he had to sit on the inventory longer, he could charge more for bottled wine than wine in a barrel, which might be blended with anything. One of his main motivations will be familiar to Bordeaux consumers today: he wanted to cut down on counterfeits. He didn’t dispense with the en primeur system, though, nor did the other first-growth owners, even as they quickly saw the value of bottling their own wine. Installing bottling lines was expensive, and growers were used to cash up front. The rest of France gradually learned to sell its own wines, even Burgundy, a region of small farmers that was much slower to transition than others. The Bordelais became complacent, but by 1982, it was fair to wonder what the point of the Bordeaux en primeur system was, and whether it would survive into the next century. Enter Parker and the 98-point wine. Suddenly people would pay a huge premium for a wine before release based on a single barrel that Parker had tasted. Bordeaux châteaux quickly learned Parker’s palate and the legend is that they could direct him to the barrel he would most like, which is how his ratings after the wines were bottled sometimes came to vary a great deal from the en primeur ratings. For wine lovers, it was caveat emptor. But for investors, an early positive rating sealed the deal for potential ROI. I want to say this about the legendary “Parker barrel”: I believe that it’s true. Why wouldn’t wineries put their most full-bodied, fruit-forward wine in front of a man known to love them? But don’t blame Parker. Barrel tasting is difficult. The wines are not ready to drink. Great wines can be harshly tannic at that stage. A barrel from grapes that were picked late so they are very ripe is always going to stand out as more drinkable a few months after harvest, even if it might not be the best wine 10 years later. If Parker hadn’t come along to reward early-drinking wines, someone else would have. Think about the non-Parker writers who slog through dozens of baby wines in Bordeaux every year. No matter how diligent they are — and I know some who are very diligent — these are extremely trying conditions, especially when what you’re trying to predict is the drinkability of a wine 25 years in the future. This is why scores really matter. If you put five different 25-year-old wines from Bordeaux (or any region) on the table, nobody can predict which will be best. Believe me; I’ve been to that tasting many times. In fact, I went to a tasting last year where a 40-year-old $4 supermarket Merlot from Washington State’s largest producer beat out top wines from Bordeaux and Napa Valley. We were all professional tasters, and none of us expected that. However, ALL of us knew which wine had garnered the highest rating 35 years earlier. We all knew the pedigrees. And thus, we knew which one would have had the highest ROI. The actual quali-
ty of the wine just doesn’t matter; the resale value of that absolutely delicious $4 supermarket Merlot was probably still about $4. Bordeaux has changed immensely from even a decade ago. Remember what I said about wine lovers carrying Bordeaux vintage charts in their wallets? There’s no reason to do that anymore, even if you love Bordeaux. Global warming has had a huge impact on a region that used to be marginal, meaning some years were good, and some years were bad. Bad vintages in Bordeaux used to mean cold, rainy summers that led to thin wines that never improved. Bordeaux might get too hot these days, and a rainy September is inconvenient, but we may never again see the type of vintage that people in the 1970s would have called “bad.” Buyers don’t have to beware of anything. Wineries, especially the top ones, have the technology to ensure that every year’s wines are solid. So, how does that affect the buying of futures for wine lovers? It was very important to buy 1982s if the ’80s, ’81s and ’83s were all significantly less good. Now, though, every year is at least decent, and Bordeaux had three “vintages of the century” in the ’00s alone. You don’t have to worry that if you miss out on this year’s wines, you won’t have any good Bordeaux for several years. Moreover, for most people the wine world is just bigger than it used to be. Maybe you don’t like Napa Cabernet. It uses the same grapes as Bordeaux but the style is different. I get it. Then you should try Coonawarra Cabernet, or a top Chilean Cabernet. Or maybe you’d like to change gears and have a Super Tuscan? For wine lovers, there are just so many choices. Why buy cases of just one wine, years in advance, when you can sample everything the world has to offer? Why? I’ll tell you why. Those other wines, they’re not for ROI. As good as Chilean Cabernet is, there’s not much resale value on the auction market. Yes, you’re right, I AM an idiot for preferring this really delicious bottle of wine right now to something that will be worth 17 percent more in five years. And, no, you still can’t have any. × SUMMER 2020 19
NO COMPARISON REQUIRED
by Gurvinder Bhatia
Barbaresco may be historically, geographically and culturally linked to that other wine from the Langhe made exclusively from Nebbiolo grapes, but certainly the time has passed for references to Barbaresco as that other wine’s “little brother” or the “feminine” expression of Nebbiolo. (In fact, all references to any wine as masculine or feminine should cease as they are outdated descriptors perpetuating myopic views.)
According to Enrico Dellapiana of Cantina Rizzi, the desire to showcase Barbaresco on its own was the impetus for Espressione Barbaresco, an event created by the Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco and held for the first time in 2019 at the historic Castello di Neive in the town of Neive, one of the four municipalities where Barbaresco can be produced. Dellapiana describes wanting to showcase Barbaresco by itself because “it is one of the most important wines of the region — it is its own wine and has its own identity and its own reality.” In many ways, Barbaresco is a technical wine as it is subject to strict geographical, viticultural and vinification rules as a result of its 20 SUMMER 2020
designation of origin (i.e., DOCG) status. In addition to Neive, the municipalities of Barbaresco, Treiso and Alba (specifically San Rocco Seno d’Elvio) comprise the geographical territories in the Langhe hills of Italy’s Piedmont region where the wine may be produced. And, of course, only Nebbiolo grapes can be used and there are strict guidelines with respect to yields, minimum alcohol levels (12.5 percent) and aging (26 months, including at least nine months in wood; 50 months for Riserva), among other regulations. But Barbaresco is also a wine that evokes emotion and, in addition to the technical quality, the people, culture and
ENRICO RIVETTO
history contribute significantly to what makes the wine unique and increasingly sought after around the globe. The inaugural Espressione Barbaresco comprised 68 producers. Young, old, new and historic, all seemed to share a common purpose: to raise the awareness and profile beyond the wine’s natural association with that other “B” wine from the Langhe. According to Gabriele Occhetti of Giuseppe Cortese, and an Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco board member, it is “important to put attention on all the different interpretations of Barbaresco, which is large in terms of diversity, but not in terms of volume.” Occhetti believes that “people should look at the Langhe like they look at Burgundy — then, within that, there is the grape, Nebbiolo. In Burgundy, people forget that they are talking about Pinot Noir, and instead speak of the many different crus.” Francesco Versio of Figli Luigi Oddero and his own small winery, Versio Francesco, reiterates that what makes Barbaresco
unique is the soil and microclimate in an area that is very small and, as a result, very exclusive. Versio emphasizes that producers need to “make wines that are very pure in order to recognize Nebbiolo from the area, but Nebbiolo that expresses the various vineyard sites and the characteristics of the vintage. It is important for people who taste the wines to understand the difference between soil and soil, and area and area. I believe that most wineries work this way to express the purity of Nebbiolo based on the site and the vintage.” Occhetti adds that the “overall quality of the wines is high” and it is “difficult to find a Barbaresco that is poorly made.” Rita Barbero of Enrico Rivetto Wines believes that it is important to have an event where the focus for the international and domestic press is just Barbaresco. And perhaps the greatest benefit of the event was the collaboration of so many producers of Barbaresco. Versio wants “a good collaboration between old producers and young producers and small family producers. Hav-
ing the historical producers involved helps to communicate the history of Barbaresco, which is very important, and having the younger producers involved is also important because they have new ideas, are fresh and want to produce better wines every year.” Dellapiana didn’t expect so many wineries to participate, but he was very pleased with the “cooperation between the small, the new, the old, the historical and the big all together to work with the same idea. The message is one of cooperation and collaboration of a small area.” When asked to compare his father’s generation to the current generation, Dellapiana explains that the new generation is more open. All of his friends are in the wine business and they “ski together and go for dinner together.” He adds that there is an attitude and philosophical shift from previous generation. “Young producers today taste each other’s wines and cooperate with each other and ask questions and help each other.” In the past, he says, “you wouldn’t taste the wines of your neighbours.” SUMMER 2020 21
Both Simone Allario Piazzo of the Piazzo winery and Occhetti of Giuseppe Cortese agree that the event also gives the “smallest family wineries in the area the opportunity to be exposed to the international press attending and that they may not otherwise have these opportunities.” Occhetti adds that Espressione Barbaresco is “an opportunity to give a unique image of a group that can be successful for the region” and that it is “an important image for the denomination to see all levels of producers working together.” THE TIMING OF ESPRESSIONE BARBARESCO COULD NOT HAVE BEEN BETTER AS IT SHOWCASED THE 2016 VINTAGE, WHICH, IN THE WORDS OF VERSIO, “IS ONE OF THE MOST INTERESTING VINTAGES OF THE PAST 10 YEARS.” And,
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RosehillWineCellars.com 22 SUMMER 2020
according to Dellapiana, “2016 is such a good vintage and there is already attention coming to the area because of that.” Barbaresco is already viewed as a high-quality wine and is known, respected and exported around the world. But all the producers believe that there is still much to be accomplished. Says Occhetti, “one of the goals is to export the format of Espressione Barbaresco outside of Italy, but it is important for the first one to be in the region, where the wine was born.” He also adds that sales of Barbaresco are predominantly outside of the country and that, in parts of Italy, there is a lack of knowledge and understanding of what Barbaresco really is. “In order for people in Italy to understand, sometimes it is better to focus on building the understanding outside of Italy and people in Italy will often learn from that.” Occhetti also sees the potential “to collaborate with other sectors in Italy — for example, fashion and automobiles — or other regions of the world, like Burgundy.” Ultimately, the goal is “to put the importance on Barbaresco, as anyone in the world who drinks wine or is around wine must know it.” Dellapiana agrees that the event needs to first be established in the wine’s home and “producers have to be very proud of the region and the wines. And new events, such as Espressione Barbaresco, help to continue to build the identity of Barbaresco, the wines, the people and the region.”
But Dellapiana sees both old and young people around the world showing an interest in Barbaresco and says it is “important to market around the world — people want to meet the producers — and it is important to organize events like this globally with a collection of producers.” Even if he is not able to participate in all global events — because sometimes, he laughs, he has to “stay at home to make wine” — he feels that “if a good producer of Barbaresco sells wine in a market, that is also good for me because they have opened the door to potentially more good Barbaresco.” Emphasizing the cultural and emotional aspects, Piazzo can’t overstate the importance of “trying to bring the world here — not just to know the wine, but to get to know the people behind the wines, the terroir, the soil, the culture, the whole region and allow more and more people to understand Barbaresco.” He adds that it takes “hard work to make great wine — and that is the same for a brand-new, small producer and a 100-year-old established historical producer.” Piazzo also believes that Barbaresco doesn’t need to be compared to any other wine or region in the winemaking world. He emphasizes that, despite the exigent nature of the market, producers should “focus more on not what they like or think the market likes, but on what the particular site has the ability to give — express the cru and the vintage.” Piazzo adds that while it is still the older generation that mostly buys Barbaresco — since they have more disposable income — more young people are interested, and many young people travel to attend events like Espressione Barbaresco. He states that it is “important to look not just at today, but to tomorrow. Young people are drinking better and want to know more about wine. And they like to try wines from around the world and like to taste different interpretations of the same grape variety. The idea is of the region and of Italy and of collaboration and to share the future. Alone, we are too weak; we need friends.” Nice people with great attitudes making great wines — it shouldn’t be difficult for them to find a few friends. ×
by Lisa Hoekstra
UP YOUR COCKTAIL GAME COCKTAILS ARE AS COMPLEX (AND INTERESTING) AS ANY OTHER FLAVOUR-BASED, INGREDIENT-DRIVEN DISH. There’s
a reason why experienced mixologists and bartenders get all the praise … they’ve learned a few tricks here and there, which allows them to craft the perfect cocktail for every individual taste. The question now is, how do we make that perfect cocktail at home? I reached out to three experts to find out. These award-winning mixologists are among Canada’s best bartenders.
The experts
Toronto-born Kaitlyn Stewart crafts delicious cocktails at Royal Dinette in Vancouver using local spirits and seasonal ingredients. Her passion and experience carried her all the way to Mexico City in 2017, where she was crowned the World Class Bartender of the Year. (She shared her Cider Cocktail with Quench back in 2018.) Calgary-based Makina Labrecque is the Diageo Reserve Portfolio Brand Ambassador and Activation Manager for Alberta. Last year, she won the Canadian leg of the 2019 Patrón Perfectionist competition with her spruce tip cocktail (which was featured in our November 2019 issue). Chris Thibodeau is the head bartender at Gio Restaurant and LevelBar in Halifax. Thibodeau is a trained sommelier and certified whisky ambassador. His resumé includes stints at Met et Soleil, The Middle Spoon, Noble, Five Fish and Gahan House. Thibodeau is passionate about helping people learn more about cocktails so that they can drink nice things wherever they are.
A Tasteful Balance
When it comes to the perfect cocktail, balancing sweet, sour, salt, bitter and umami is key. Throw in a pleasant mouthfeel, some fancy aromas and an attractive glass, and you’ve got yourself something great.
KAITLYN STEWART
Depending on the cocktail, each “taste” is created differently. But typically, you have citrus juice for sour, sugar syrups for sweetness, bitters for bitterness, salt or saline solution for salty and for umami, it could be as simple as adding Worcestershire sauce to a Caesar or using bacon fat to fat-wash a spirit. Like in cooking, taste in cocktails is all about balance — bringing up the brix to even out sourness or adding bitters to round out the flavours. I practise “less is more” until I know I have dialled in the desired taste of the cocktail. To achieve some sense of perfection, it’s all about flavour pairing. Knowing the base flavour profile of the spirit you are using, and complementing it, is the best way to start a perfect cocktail. Many of my favourite “perfect” cocktails use a 2:1:1 ratio. Meaning: two parts liquor, one part sour, one part sweet. If I want to achieve a sour cocktail, I turn to lime juice first. Or use a less sour juice like grapefruit and add an acid alternative to bring up the acidity. You have to think of the final cocktail and what exactly you want it to come across as.
MAKINA LABRECQUE
Usually you can divide cocktails into a few main categories — sweet, savoury, floral, spirit forward, refreshing. Of course, a SUMMER 2020 23
KAITLYN STEWART
cocktail can be savoury and floral at the same time. There are so many ways you can go about combining flavours, but these are the typical categorizations of taste that we use when developing menus and pairings. When it comes to creating a certain flavour in a cocktail, there are a few “go to” ingredients. When creating something lively and fresh, there is no replacement for fresh citrus. For creating depth, a pinch of salt or bitters is essential — bitters create length and a lasting finish. For floral, rosewater and orange-blossom water impart floral notes easily — only a few dashes go a long way with these. When it comes to more advanced layers, you can always use oils (coconut, canola, olive oil) and other culinary techniques. The components for a great cocktail are: a base spirit, modifying spirit, lengthener and sweetener. For example, in the Margarita, tequila is the base spirit, triple sec is the modifying spirit, the lengthener or acid in this case is the lime juice, and you can add a bar spoon of agave nectar to create some extra depth and sweet flavours for those who want it. I always only do a half rim of salt on my Margaritas to give the drinker the choice. As far as ratio goes, it is safe to do a 2:1 ratio on the base spirit to modifier — but that doesn’t always work, so experiment with it.
alcohol. Weak could be sodas, teas, juices or simply dilution. Your sweet could be sugar, syrups, homemade syrups, maple syrups, honey. Your sours are your citrus juices. Your bitter is your bitters and Amaris. (Bitters are the salt and pepper of the cocktail world. A little pinch goes a long way. That little bitter hint rounds out the palate and gives you a more balanced and complete cocktail.) Dilution is water, ice, topping with soda or even adding hot water. The ratio depends on the cocktail style. For sours, you’re going to have a higher level of citrus than you would of sweetener. Maybe that’s an ounce and three-quarter ounce, or maybe it’s an ounce and a half ounce. There’s a similar ratio when adjusted for a sweet drink.
CHRIS THIBODEAU
Ice plays a massive role in the cocktail’s flavour profile, and it is often overlooked. When you use crushed ice, you have to make sure that the flavour profile is bold enough to stand up to rapid dilution. Just like when you use a king cube or ice ball, you need to take in consideration that the dilution will take longer. I believe that ice is a personal preference. If you enjoy ice in your martini, then all the power to you. For me, I typically steer away from ice when it comes to delicate, booze-forward cocktails.
Balance is really what you’re after. You need a balance of the four tastes as well as mouthfeel and consistency. Heat, texture, consistency — as well as the look of a cocktail — will all contribute to the overall taste of the drink. I always say that if a drink looks and smells great, you’re already two-thirds convinced it’s a great drink. Cocktail components date back to the original punch recipe: strong, weak, sweet, sour, bitter and dilution. Strong is your 24 SUMMER 2020
Ice, Ice, Maybe
You’ve probably heard people order their drinks “on the rocks” or “served up”; maybe you’ve noticed that there’s cubed rather than crushed ice behind the bar. Well, ice, as it happens, actually impacts a cocktail’s flavour.
KAITLYN STEWART
MAKINA LABRECQUE
Ice is your best friend when making cocktails. Dilution is key when it comes to opening up flavours in spirits and cocktails, as well as making them enjoyable. Taste your cocktail with a straw after the initial shake or stir to determine if it is ready, and take into consideration whether you are putting it on ice afterwards or keeping it neat. When you make a drink that you are serving on ice, shake or stir it a little less than you typically would to allow for the drink to gradually dilute. For sipping drinks, serve neat and perfectly diluted in a pre-chilled glass from the freezer. It’s a nice touch and the drink will stay colder longer.
CHRIS THIBODEAU
Ice both chills and lowers the ABV through dilution. Drinks served with ice are meant to be enjoyed at your own pace; they will continue to dilute. The dilution time depends on the quality and size of your ice cubes. Cocktails that are “served up” are served with no ice. Those are meant to be drunk very quickly because you chill it, dilute it and pour it into a glass without any ice. It’s going to arrive at room temperature fast. [Cocktails served without ice] are more about mouthfeel. You arrive at a certain texture that you want, like a sour with that beautiful egg-white froth, and you want to preserve that as long as you can.
Adding a little finesse
Garnish. The final touch in the cocktail world. When you add a garnish to your cocktail, it must complement the cocktail and enhance the experience.
KAITLYN STEWART
I’m a firm believer in adding a garnish only if it adds to the cocktail experience. Expressing a lemon peel over the top of a Vesper Martini is essential to the cocktail experience and flavour profile. It draws out the bright finish of the Gin and Lillet, tying the cocktail together. Sometimes garnishes are just added for the sake of adding a visual cue that the cocktail is “complete.” I don’t think that’s a good enough reason.
MAKINA LABRECQUE
Adding garnish is a great way to add intrigue and value to a cocktail. Any garnish should be edible, that’s my rule. A garnish should add something to the drink, often aroma. Think of diving nose first into a Mojito with a big bouquet of mint as the garnish — there is nothing better nor more refreshing.
CHRIS THIBODEAU
If a drink looks and smells good, you’ve already convinced others you know what you’re doing. But the garnish has to make sense. A Cosmopolitan has vodka, orange liqueur, lime juice, cranberry juice and simple syrup. Acceptable garnishes would be anything orange (twists, zest, slice, wheel), cranberries or anything lime (wheel, wedge) — it all works. It has to make sense.
Shaken vs. Stirred
Bond has gotten flack for his unruly “shaken, not stirred” demands. Turns out, there’s a good reason for this. Both actions play a very specific role in cocktail creation.
SUMMER 2020 25
KAITLYN STEWART
Shaking a cocktail will add more aeration, giving it a more rounded mouthfeel. Stirring will add dilution without aggressive aeration. If I have added any type of citrus to a cocktail, I am more than likely going to shake it. Why? Because it will mellow out the citrus and take the astringent quality to a lower level. If I am working with a spirit-forward cocktail, I will stir it. That way I have more control over the dilution and how the expression of the spirit is being conveyed.
MAKINA LABRECQUE
Most people will tell you if the drink has citrus and syrups or any sweeteners, you shake it in order to make sure that you are combining the ingredients fully and adding air to the cocktail to achieve the final result. Stirring comes into play when you have a cocktail that is simply booze and bitters (and often a light form of sweetener). Some people like their Martinis shaken — I don’t judge. The Martini is a great example of a drink that is super personal to the drinker. There is no right way — only your way. I do however prefer my Martinis stirred, gin and slightly wet with a grapefruit twist, for the record.
CHRIS THIBODEAU
Stirred cocktails feel silky smooth. They’re all about the spirits and liqueurs used. You stir cocktails to chill and dilute at a slower pace. I’ll count every single time; it takes a little bit more practice to stir a cocktail. Shaken cocktails feel fizzy or more lively compared to stirred cocktails. Shaking chills, dilutes, aerates and lowers ABV. If your cocktail contains juices, egg or egg whites, you should shake the cocktail. That’s pretty much the bottom line. You’re never going to stir a citrus cocktail. You want to fill it full of air, you want to get that mouthfeel, that extra dilution. It’s just the way of the world.
Tools of the Trade
It’s time to make sure we have all the tools we need to channel our inner mixologist. Our experts made up this list of essentials … Cocktail shaker Jigger Bar spoon Hawthorne strainer Fine strainer Citrus peeler Paring knife Cutting board Mixing glass
And then shared the tools they can’t live without. KAITLYN STEWART
I’m a fairly basic bartender when it comes to tools, but I have been known to make a margarita or two at home with 26 SUMMER 2020
my protein shaker. I couldn’t live without my jigger. I like the comfort of knowing my measurements are always on point. I love using a milkshake mixer when it comes to egg white or dairy-based cocktails. It whips up the perfect sour, but it’s totally unnecessary.
MAKINA LABRECQUE
You want those main tools on hand, most importantly a jigger because without measurements there is no consistency. A muddler comes in handy for cocktails with a sugar cube. I always keep a funnel on hand for extra tools because, typically, after making an ingredient, you are adding it back into another container. Coffee filters and cheese cloth are also great to have around so that you can fine-strain ingredients with very small unwanted particles.
CHRIS THIBODEAU
You want an ice scoop; you shouldn’t be handling ice with your hands. Also, ice cube trays. The dollar store has really good trays to make large cubes, two dollars apiece. I have eight of them because they’re fantastic. I think a lighter is very much an essential tool. I take an orange peel; I keep the lighter lit and then squeeze that orange peel. It shoots the orange oils on top of the drink and caramelizes them. It smells incredible and takes your aromatic game to the next level.
Last call
Now that we’ve got the basics, the experts shared some final thoughts before sending us into our home bars to experiment and create our “perfect” cocktails.
KAITLYN STEWART
Less is more. Start with the basic elements of a cocktails — spirit, sugar, water and bitters — and go from there. I find taking a classic cocktail and twisting one or two elements really gets the creative juices going. If you’re making an Old Fashioned, maybe change up the bitters. Start there and then move onto more adventurous risks.
MAKINA LABRECQUE
Read as much as possible. There are so many online resources that keep you up to date, current and informed. Aside from that, keep experimenting and go to your local cocktail bars and ask questions — it’s flattering that people do what we bartenders do for work as a hobby at home — nobody is going home to practice accounting after their day job, so it’s a great compliment.
CHRIS THIBODEAU
Drink less, but drink better. Get out of your comfort zone. Find out what you like and ask questions. The more questions you ask, the more you’re going to learn, the more you’re going to get excited about it. When you start to make drinks at home, don’t be afraid of honest feedback. You’re probably going to make some terrible things. Everyone’s been there. It takes practice. You’re an ounce to a quarter ounce away. ×
BUYING GUIDE
All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to find the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new. Afterall, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and will likely vary from province to province. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, so check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Michelle Bouffard, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Tim Pawsey, Michaela Morris, Jordan St. John, Brie Dema and Jonathan Smithe. *Available through private import and online wine clubs
SPARKLING MEZZA DI MEZZACORONA NV, IGT BIANCA VIGNETI DELLE DOLOMITI, ITALY ($20)
with lovely balance and length. Great with salty appetizers, seafood and very enjoyable on its own. 100% Chardonnay. (GB) H. BILLIOT ET FILS BRUT RESERVE NV, AMBONNAY, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($72)
Pale yellow with adequate bubbles. Bouquet of apple, toast and a hint of cherry. Slightly sweet, like a Golden Delicious apple. Drink up. (RL)
Complex and textural with rich honey and nutty notes. Ripe flavours of apple, cherry, citrus and holiday spice with a long, lingering finish. Elegant and refined. A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. (GB)
BRUNDLMAYER ROSE SEKT NV, KAMPTAL AUSTRIA ($56)
AYALA BRUT MAJEUR NV, AY, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($75)
A delicious and persistent blend of Pinot Noir, Zweigelt and St. Laurent. Light salmon in colour, creamy texture; bright delicate and pure flavours of red cherries, strawberries, wild berries, citrus and spice. Elegant and minerally with great balance and a mouthwatering finish. Shellfish, salmon tartar, roasted pork and poultry would all match nicely. A very well-made sparkling. (GB) PIERRE GIMONNET ET FILS BRUT 1ER CRU CUVÉE CUIS BLANC DE BLANCS NV, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($68)
Citrus peel and bready aromas with flavours of citrus, apple and spice. A light toastiness, great depth and creamy texture
Precise and focused with fresh notes of green apple, honey and fresh bread. Linear and bright with a lifted acidity on the finish. 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meunier. (GB) DIEBOLT-VALLOIS BRUT ROSÉ NV, CRAMANT, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($78)
Full of the flavours of strawberry, raspberry, tart currants, pomegranate seeds, blood orange and grapefruit citrus, with notes of spice. Fresh and vinous with a lively finish. A great texture and brightness to match with salmon, arctic char and beef or lamb crudo. 63% Pinot Noir, 27% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Meunier. (GB)
WHITE $20 AND UNDER
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA SEE YA LATER RANCH PINOT GRIS 2018 VQA, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($15)
Pale gold. Robust nose of ripe banana, pear and apple. Medium bodied, tasting of peach nectar and dried apricots with a bit of honey nicely offsetting crisp acidity. Drink now. (RL) BORDERTOWN PINOT GRIS 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($15.99)
Sourced from the home estate, all stainless steel fermented. Orchard and tropical fruits on the nose before a well-textured and generous but structured palate of citrus and hints of pineapple through a juicy finish. Good value. (TP) FRANCE CAVE VINICOLE DE HUNAWIHR GEWURZTRAMINER 2016, AC ALSACE ($18)
Medium yellow. Lovely bouquet of roses, amaretto and grapefruit. Full bodied with a mouth-coating texture. Tastes of peachSUMMER 2020 27
BUYING GUIDE es and apricots with bitter almond on the long finish. Drink to 2021. (RL)*
bitterness. Great match with poultry or creamy seafood pasta. (MB) SOUTH AFRICA
CAVE VINICOLE DE HUNAWIHR RIESLING 2016, AC ALSACE ($18)
Light gold. Slightly petillant. Appealing nose of delicious apple, mango and lime. Medium bodied with tart acidity over citrus flavours. Drink up. (RL)* E. GUIGAL 2017, AC CÔTES DU RHÔNE ($20)
Medium-deep gold. Powerful fruit salad nose includes pineapple, pear and banana. A full-bodied, full-flavored white, tasting of apples and pears, and bone dry despite the sweetness of the nose. Perfect with Chinese crispy-skinned roast pork and cumin-roasted veggies. Drink now. Good value. (RL) PORTUGAL
WARWICK PROFESSOR BLACK SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, WESTERN CAPE ($15)
Pale yellow. Robust nose of gooseberry and passion fruit. Thankfully unoaked, which lets the tartly acidic flavours of grapefruit, lemon and lime shine through. Drink up. (RL)*
NEW ZEALAND ALLAN SCOTT SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018, MARLBOROUGH ($14)
Light yellow. Nose of gooseberry, nettle leaves, orange and grapefruit. Medium bodied, flavours of gooseberry accented by lime peel and grapefruit bitters. Good value. Drink now. (RL) UNITED STATES
SOALHEIRO ALLO 2018, MINHO IGP ($14.85)
Made of 50% Loureiro and 50% Alvarinho, this highly regarded producer from the Vinho Verde region crafts an easy-todrink fresh white offering outstanding value. Light with bright acid and juicy notes of lime, lemon, laurel and stone fruit, ALLO is just as easy to drink on its own as it is with sushi, steamed clams or Thai curry. Buy by the case! (MB) POÇAS JÚNIOR VALE DE CAVALOS BRANCO 2017, DOURO DOC ($16.60)
The whites of the Douro Valley are too often in the shadow of the region’s reds. This is a great example of how much character and value the whites can offer. Full body with rich texture balanced by fresh acid. Pleasing lush notes of guava, passion fruit and a welcomed citrus 28 SUMMER 2020
finish. A good value, typical, workmanlike Mâcon-Villages. Drink up. (RL)*
CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE RIESLING 2018, COLUMBIA VALLEY ($14)
Medium-deep gold. Medium-intensity nose of pear, lime and pineapple. Medium bodied for a Riesling, tasting of lime, pineapple and Asian apple-pear. Drink now. Good value. (RL)
RECOMMENDED FRANCE DOMAINE CLOS ST. LEGER CHARDONNAY 2015, AOP MÂCON-VILLAGES ($14)
Deep brass colour. Medium nose of a caramel-coated MacIntosh apple, also some banana. Medium bodied, tasting of apple and citrus with a tart cherry leaf
GERMANY DEINHARD RIESLING 2017, PIESPORTER ($9)
Entry-level German Riesling, among many people’s first wine, reliably consistent if not particularly memorable. Pale yellow, fairly strong nose of lime, peach, mango and almond. Medium bodied, tasting of pears and peaches. Slightly sweet but high acidity helps. Drink now. (RL) GREECE MEGA SPILEO ASSYRTIKO 2017, PGI ACHAIA ($15)
The first sip transports you immediately to the sunny climes of the Peloponnese. Medium body with a slightly oily texture and notes of stone fruit and dried herbs underlined by lemon zest. The fresh acidity and pleasant bitterness provide the necessary element to pair with scallop ceviche or roasted lemon chicken. Great value. (MB) ITALY VELENOSI VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO DOC 2018 ($15.25)
Light and fresh with rounded texture and appealing notes of red apple, melon, almond and lemon. Simple yet so pleasing and easy to drink. Well suited for salad and white fish simply prepared. (MB) SOUTH AFRICA KLOOF-EN-BERG CHENIN BLANC 2017, WESTERN CAPE ($10)
Pale gold. Faint nose of flowers, lemon
and a bit of pine. Tart on the palate, tasting of pineapple, Granny Smith apple and lemonade. Drink through 2020. (RL)* UNITED STATES FETZER SHALEY LOAM GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2017, MONTEREY ($11)
Colour of a brass doorknob. Medium-intensity nose of lychee and peaches. Medium bodied, tasting of more peaches and orange. Slightly sweet, but a pinch of acidity lightens the texture. Drink now. (RL)
$20.01 TO $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA BENCH 1775 ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018, NARAMATA BENCH ($25.99)
From six different lots, five were stainless steel fermented with one lot barrel fermented in new French oak for a little extra weight and added texture. Aromas of citrus and sage before a palate of gooseberry, guava and citrus, excellent fruit acid balance, with grapefruit and herbal notes through the finish. (TP) AMULET WHITE 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($26.99)
Inaugural release of a new label of Rhone-inspired wines by Naramata winemaker Dwight Sick, in collaboration with Roche Wines. Of note is the impressive packaging highlighted by an amulet-styled medallion. This is a blend of mainly Viognier (90%) from two differing sites with 10% Marsanne yields. It offers inviting aromas of honey and stone fruit, followed by a well-balanced peachand citrus-toned palate defined by juicy acidity with some peppery notes towards the close. Six months on lees in mainly used French oak, unfined and unfiltered. Gentle decanting recommended. (TP) FRANCE MÉLANIE PFISTER FURD PINOT GRIS 2016, ALSACE AOC ($25)
If you thought that Pinot Gris was bland
with no personality, this wine will change your mind. Medium body with nice creamy texture and notes of honey, pear and melon, which are in harmony with the pleasant bread-dough notes coming from lees contact. Great balance and an absolute joy with quiche, seared scallops or turkey. (MB) DOMAINE ZIND HUMBRECHT MUSCAT TURCKHEIM 2016, ALSACE DOC ($27.40)
What a great expression of Muscat from Alsace! Dry with medium body and expressive notes of fresh grapes, orange blossom and lavender. The pleasant bitterness on the finish compensates for the soft acid. It is so pleasing on its own but will make Münster cheese or canard à l’orange shine, no doubt! (MB)
$20 AND UNDER
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA HESTER CREEK CHARACTER 2018, GOLDEN MILE BENCH ($18.99)
This good value red blend of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Syrah and Malbec opens nicely in the glass to lifted red and black fruit. Good mouthfeel and solid fruit acid balance with approachable tannins and good length, cherries and spice to close. (TP) ITALY FONTE DEL RE 2016, LACRIMA DI MORRO D’ALBA DOC ($20)
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FRANCE DOMAINE CHANTE CIGALE 2015, AOP CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE ($46)
Equal blend of four Rhône varietals: Grenache Blanc, Rousanne, Clairette and (my favorite grape name) Bourboulenc. Medium-deep gold. Medium-intensity nose of cantaloupe, pineapple and lime. Light bodied. A bone-dry food wine despite the sweetness of the aromas. Tastes of apple, pear and grapefruit with grapefruit pith bitterness on the long finish. Powerful flavours do well with full-flavoured foods. Pricey but worth it as a treat. Drink now. (RL)
ROSÉ BORDERTOWN CABERNET FRANC ROSÉ 2018 ($17.49)
With a deliberate nod to Provence, pale to medium salmon in the glass, forward red berry notes followed by quince, rhubarb and watermelon plus some earthy notes through a refreshing, dry close. Speaking of salmon, it might be time to dust off your favourite recipe. (TP)
× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT WWW.QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/
RED
Charming vibrant red plum and dark cherry with beautiful lifted notes of violet and roses seduce immediately. Delicate yet firm tannins with fresh acidity and medium body. This off-the-beaten path red is well worth the discovery. A delicious match with game meat. I dream of venison with a red berry sauce. (MB)
RECOMMENDED CHILE VINA LA RESERVA DE CALIBORO ERASMO 2013, MAULE ($20)
Pungent tar and herbaceous aromas so often associated with Chile mingle with dark blackberries, cassis, cedar and tobacco. Full body with firm tannins and fresh acid that balances the ripeness of fruit. Hard to believe this wine is from the 2013 vintage. Still very youthful. Ribs or hamburger are both a good pairing. (MB) FRANCE DOMAINE BADOZ, GRAINS DE POULSARD SANS SOUFRE AJOUTÉ 2018, CÔTES DU JURA AOC ($20)
Light body with delicate tannins and
SUMMER 2020 29
BUYING GUIDE sweet aromas of wild strawberries, raspberries and orange peel with a pleasant earthy touch. Will please the Jura lovers seeking a wine that offers good value for money. Enjoy with steak tartare, duck confit or simply with charcuteries and pâtés for an aperitif. (MB) ITALY PONTEMAGNO 2017, DOC ROSSO PICENO ($16)
Medium-deep garnet. Fairly robust nose of cherry candy and other red berries with a bit of spice. Light-bodied with high acidity, simple flavours of fresh pomegranate juice backed up by medium tannins. Drink up. (RL)* PORTUGAL RIBEIRA DE AGUIAR TOURIGA FRANCA, TOURIGA NACIONAL & TINTA RORIZ 2016, DOURO DOC ($15.70)
Full body with dusty tannins where the rich notes of blackberries, black licorice and slightly lifted floral notes are well balanced by fresh acid. Simple but honest and very well made. Great value for money. Ideal for meat stew or grilled sausages. (MB)
$20.01 TO $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA HARDY MONTEPULCIANO 2016, LIMESTONE COAST ($26)
Opaque plum red. Medium-intensity nose featuring plums, raspberries, and a bit of smoke and allspice from oak aging. Medium bodied with prominent tannins and acidity, tasting of ripe plums and cherries. 30 SUMMER 2020
Alcohol is high but well integrated. Will lend class to your spaghetti bolognese. Drink through 2021. (RL)*
glass to pure fruit flavours of cherry and distinctly savoury notes on the light- to medium-bodied palate with clove spice and mineral undertones. (TP)
CANADA HESTER CREEK RESERVE CABERNET FRANC BLOCK 3 2017, GOLDEN MILE BENCH ($25.99)
From 50-year-old vines originally planted by pioneering Joe Busnardo. Pretty garnet in the glass, aromas of ripe red and black berries with earthy notes, followed by a juicy, balanced and well-structured palate with firm tannins, damson, mulberry and blackberry before leafy and mineral hints through the finish. (TP) QUAILS’ GATE OLD VINES FOCH 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($25.99)
Fruit sourced from the winery’s Osoyoos vineyard, hand harvested and barrel fermented in French and American oak, aged 20 months. Generous dark berry fruits and smoky notes on the nose precede a plush entry with well-integrated tannins, boysenberry, damson and blackcurrant through a lengthy end. (TP) BORDERTOWN SYRAH 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($26.50)
Varietally true peppery and meaty gamey notes on top followed by a generous palate of blackberry, cassis and vanilla underpinned by approachable tannins with well-balanced fruit and oak through the lengthy end. (TP) CEDARCREEK ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2017, SOUTH KELOWNA ($26.99)
Sourced from four different blocks in the home vineyard, in year one of organic transition. Aromas of inviting darker berry and earthy hints, opening in the
FORT BERENS CABERNET FRANC 2017, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($27.99)
Sourced mainly from the home estate Dry Creek Vineyard in Lillooet, with the balance of fruit from near Oliver. Lifted aromas of red berry fruit, toasty notes and spicy oak announce a blackberry- and cassis-toned palate with mulberry, vanilla and black pepper, before lingering oak spice to close. (TP) CULMINA YOUNG VINES MALBEC 2016, GOLDEN MILE BENCH ($30)
From two different sites and elevations on the estate, with one portion spending 22 months in older French oak; intense aromas of red and black berries preview a satin-smooth, clove- and spice-toned palate accentuated by cassis and savoury herb notes wrapped in juicy acidity, integrated tannins and well managed oak. (TP) AMULET RED 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($34.78)
A blend of 46% Grenache from Penticton with 28% Syrah and 26% Mourvèdre, each from a different site on West Osoyoos Bench. Open top fermented, punched down over 20 days then gently pressed before seven months on lees in French oak (20/80 new/neutral), unfined and unfiltered. Upfront red and black fruit with a wild edge and earthy notes before a complex layered palate with mulberry and plum, herbal undertones and some grip around a core of firm tannins. Gentle decanting recommended. (TP)
FRANCE BOUTINOT LA CÔTE SAUVAGE CAIRANNE 2015, RHÔNE ($30.99)
Grown on bush vines on the aptly named, pebble and limestone wild slopes above Cairanne, in southern Rhone, this blend of mainly Grenache Noir with Syrah, Carignan and Mouvedre is all about balance. A silky entry, raspberry and bright red berries with a hint of cassis, underpinned by stony, mineral notes, well structured and complex. Solid evidence as to why in 2018 Cairanne was granted its own AOC designation. (TP) DOMAINE MABY LIRAC 2015, RHÔNE ($30.99)
From a long established family owned domain, this blend of Grenache Noir (54%), Mouvedre (24%) and Syrah (22%) delivers upfront red and black fruit aromas, before a plush and plummy palate, very approachable with structure and good balance, chalky tannins and herbal hints with a little spice towards the finish, before lingering pepper notes to close. (TP)
RECOMMENDED ITALY COLLEMATTONI DI BUCCI MARCELLO 2017, ROSSI DI MONTALCINO DOC ($25.55)
Medium body with fresh acid, chewy tannins and bright notes of red cherries, red plum and cinnamon make this slightly rustic, yet charming Tuscan red, an ideal companion for spaghetti bolognese or osso bucco. No doubt it warms the soul. (MB) PORTUGAL TIAGO TELES GILDA 2017, BAIRRADA DOC ($25.50)
Savoury and crunchy notes of sour cherries and raspberries with bright acid and subtle pleasing violet and earthy nuances. Light and fresh with delicate chalky tannins. Serve slightly chilled with grilled tuna, rabbit or Peking duck. (MB)
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA KITSCH CAB FRANC 2018, BLACK SAGE BENCH ($35)
Limited release, likely only this vintage. Forward black berries and herbal notes followed by a vibrant, pure and full-fruited palate; excellent varietal expression, with raspberry, mulberry, cherry, vanilla and tea notes wrapped in well-integrated silky tannins with a lingering, peppery close. (TP) KITSCH PINOT NOIR 2018, EAST KELOWNA ($40)
Upfront warm, ripe notes of red berries precede a plush cherry- and strawberry-toned, medium-bodied palate underpinned by elegant savoury and spice notes finishing with pure fruit flavours and good structure, balanced by silky tannins. (TP)
DARK HORSE MERITAGE 2016, GOLDEN MILE BENCH ($45)
A new brand sourced from the former Inniskillin Okanagan Dark Horse Vineyard. Aromas of red and black fruit with smoky notes and vanilla introduce a fruit-driven palate of redcurrant, blackberry and cassis with undertones of spice and earthy tones, approachable tannins before a toasty close. (TP) CULMINA HYPOTHESIS 2014, GOLDEN MILE BENCH ($46)
Aromas of black olive, dark berries and some dusty mineral hints precede a plush entry of black fruit with liquorice, spice and clove notes wrapped in juicy acidity, artfully balanced with black pepper and lingering spice notes through the close; rounded and luscious but with understated measured weight and solid structure. Definitely age-worthy from a superlative vintage. Also available in large formats. (TP) FRANCE
BARTIER BROTHERS GRENACHE/ SYRAH/MOURVEDRE 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($41.99)
Fruit sourced from Black Sage Terrace vineyards of sandy loam over granite, sand and gravel within close proximity. A blend of Grenache (35%), Syrah (33%), Mourvedre (32%), open top fermented, aged 14 months in neutral French oak. Inviting red and black wild berry fruits lead to a complex and layered palate of raspberry, damson and blackberry notes wrapped in well-integrated, approachable tannins, with good structure and juicy mouthfeel through a lengthy end with a distinctly mineral streak. (TP) DARK HORSE CABERNET FRANC 2018, GOLDEN MILE BENCH ($45)
Stainless-steel fermented, and French and American oak aged for 16 months after secondary fermentation. Forward ripe red berry aromas precede a plush and plummy mocha and cassis palate framed in approachable tannins with balanced acidity with some herbal notes through a lengthy close. (TP)
CANET-VALETTE IVRESSES 2016, SAINT-CHINIAN AOC ($44.15)
I have been following this domaine for over a decade and once again, this cuvée is a stunner. Full body with a complex palate made of sun-ripe aromas of blackberries and dark plum balanced by savoury dried herbs and earthy notes. The ripe yet firm tannins give good structure to the generosity of fruit. Lamb tagine is calling. (MB) PAVILLON DE LÉOVILLE POYFERRÉ 2015, SAINT-JULIEN AOC ($66)
Great purity on the nose with the classic notes of cedar, pencil shavings, cassis, tobacco and graphite associated with the great wines of the left bank in Bordeaux. Polished firm tannins with fresh acid and generous amount of vanilla well supported by the concentration of fruit. Complex with a long finish. While the wine is without a doubt showing its high quality, it will express greater complexity in 10 to 15 years. A great example of the combination of finesse and power one finds in Saint-Julien in great vintages. (MB) SUMMER 2020 31
BUYING GUIDE ITALY PODERE IL CARNASCIALE OTTANTADUE 2016, VALDARNO DI SPORA DOC ($43)
Pure expression of Sangiovese with precise notes of dark cherries, tomato leaves, red licorice and red plum. Dusty tannins with fresh acid and medium body. Needs proteins to soften the tannins. Will shine with Cornish hen, guinea fowl, quail or hanger steak simply sprinkled with sea salt. Tuscany at its best! (MB)
BEER & CIDER STONEHOOKER BROADREACH IPA, UNITED STATES ($3.55/473 ML)
The temptation with New England IPA is to treat the flavour profile as a sledgehammer. In the case of Port Credit, Ontario’s Stonehooker, a light touch is key. Pineapple, dragon fruit, lychee and papaya on the nose with a light eucalyptus touch revealed on a larger gulp. (JSJ) ROBINSONS IRON MAIDEN TROOPER RED & BLACK PORTER, UNITED KINGDOM ($3.55/500 ML)
Designed in partnership with Iron Maiden’s Bruce Dickinson, this features less roast than fruit on the aroma with red and black licorice, and sweet apple and concord grape esters amid dried fruit. English hop bite on the palate and at the finish makes this 6.8% brawler an oldschool English porter. (JSJ)
THE CHURCH BREWING COMPANY SANCTUARY ENKEL, NOVA SCOTIA ($4/473 ML)
A well-balanced set of esters and phenols 32 SUMMER 2020
on the nose, with pepper, banana, bubblegum and clove above a light, crackery body. Lemon pith on the palate presents a well-judged touch of bitterness. An authentic as possible Belgian Enkel out of Wolfville, Nova Scotia. (JSJ)
fleshing out those profiles, resulting in a winter sipper perfect for those long chilly nights. (JSJ)
BLACK OAK NUTCRACKER PORTER, TORONTO, ONTARIO ($4/473 ML)
Unfiltered’s beers tend towards exuberance in flavour, and Exile on North Street is no exception. The level of bitterness is commensurate with old school west coast IPA and the generously apportioned pine, grapefruit and mango presence will please drinkers who remember how IPA used to be in the bad old days. (JSJ)
One of Ontario’s oldest Christmas seasonals, Nutcracker Porter features cinnamon and nutmeg above its dried fruit, chocolate and roast-malt body, creating a festive waft of yuletide cheer. Nutcracker seems to maintain its quality as time passes. (JSJ) GRIMROSS BRAUNSCHWEIG PILSNER, NEW BRUNSWICK ($4/473 ML)
Grassy with a small amount of drying wildflowers and a barley sugar character somewhere down towards buckwheat honey. A small amount of retro-nasal stone fruit appears alongside a lingering chrysanthemum bitterness in this 4.8% quencher from New Brunswick. (JSJ) BRETON BREWING COMPANY RED COAT IRISH RED ALE, CAPE BRETON, NOVA SCOTIA ($4/473 ML)
Deep Red leaning past the caramel aroma of traditional versions and into toasted grain, coffee and sweet sugar cereal. Quite a soft texture, with a small amount of slickness on the palate. The final impression is of toast, and it becomes slightly thin at the swallow. (JSJ) SAWDUST CITY LONG DARK VOYAGE TO URANUS COFFEE & VANILLA, ONTARIO ($5/473 ML)
With its Vonnegut-inspired can art, LDV Coffee & Vanilla deftly accentuates the existing notes of roast and chocolate by
UNFILTERED BREWING EXILE ON NORTH STREET, HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA ($9.50/1000 ML)
PROPELLER CASCADE AMERICAN PALE ALE, NOVA SCOTIA ($14.49/6 PACK)
Pours a mellow orange with good head retention. A small amount of apple and tobacco above a much larger profile of white grapefruit and pine. The bitterness is pronounced but kept in check by the darker malt character that suggests sweetness, but never lets it off the leash. (JSJ) PROPELLER GALAXY INDIA PALE ALE, NOVA SCOTIA ($15.99/4 PACK)
Focusing on individual hop varieties can come with mixed results, but in the case of Propeller’s Galaxy IPA, the hallmark is subtlety and restraint. The beer is gentle on the palate with mild bitterness and its aroma is passion fruit, pineapple and mango in a pillow-like texture, resulting in a dangerously quaffable beer, gone in an instant. (JSJ) BLIND ENTHUSIASM BREWING COMPANY THE MONOLITH MEASURE OF PATIENCE, EDMONTON, ALBERTA ($20)
A barrel-fermented beer and the inaugural release from Blind Enthusiasm’s sister
brewery The Monolith, where barrel-aged sour beers via spontaneous fermentation will be produced. Measure of Patience is a mixed-fermentation beer (both yeast and bacteria were added). After at least a year, the barrels were tasted and a select few were blended to achieve a desired taste profile. The resulting beer is clean, lightly sour with notes of stone fruit and incredibly well balanced. The quality is remarkable given that it is The Monolith’s first release. Owner Greg Zeschuk and head brewer Doug Checknita indicate that the beer was inspired by natural wines, but there is a purity and welcome lack of excessive funkiness from which many “natural” wine producers could take a lesson. A beer produced with a nod to wine lovers, but also accessible without sacrificing character for those new to this style. A brewery to watch. (GB)
SPIRITS ESPOLÒN AÑEJO TEQUILA, MEXICO ($40)
My preference in tequila is typically blanco, occasionally reposado. The issue I often have with añejo (particularly extra añejo) is that the extended wood aging starts to mask the agave character of the spirit. Espolòn manages to avoid this problem, possibly because the spirit is just “finished” in ex-bourbon barrels having spent the majority of its year-long aging in white oak. The result is an añejo that boasts loads of ripe, spicy, vegetal and agave notes with just a suggestion of caramel and Christmas cake. Very well-balanced in the mouth, the wood is perfectly integrated so as to enhance, not dominate, the herbal and earthy agave notes. (TS) NIKKA WHISKY FROM THE BARREL, JAPAN ($65)
A complex and robust blend of Japanese single malts and Japanese grain whisky, married in oak casks, showing tropical fruit, vanilla, tartness, spice, toffee and caramelized banana with good balance between the oakiness, fruit and alcohol. A few drops of water help to open it up and smoothen it out. (GB)
POLI MOKA, ITALY ($60)
A balanced coffee cream liqueur well made by one of the globe’s best distillers using only coffee, fresh cream, sugar and grappa. A spirited addition to a cup of coffee, tea or hot water, or quite delicious solo on ice. A touch sweeter than previous bottlings, but still a preferable alternative to many other cream liqueurs, which are not as balanced and frequently contain several not-so-natural additives. (GB) GODET COGNAC XO GASTRONOME, FRANCE ($132)
Floral and elegant with notes of stone fruit and nuts. Incredibly well balanced and smooth, it glides across the palate finishing warm and seamless. Originally created in 1838 by Augustin Godet as an ultra-dry Cognac to aid digestion, the current generation of Godet brothers produce the spirit from organically grown grapes, without chemicals, pesticides or any artificial additives. Stellar and incredible value compared to so many more expensive cognacs. (GB) POLI GRAPPA DI SASSICAIA 2011, ITALY ($139)
A unique grappa in that it is vintage dated: only the pomace from a single vintage is distilled. The pomace from the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet France grapes used for Tenuta San Guido’s Sassicaia is distilled and then aged for four years before being finished in the barrels used to age the wine. The result is an elegant, complex and warming spirit that is herbal, grassy, fruity and floral with notes of coffee, licorice, honey, vanilla and cocoa. The barrel aging rounds out the edges and smoothens it out. For those that think they do not like grappa, try this. (GB) NIKKA COFFEY GRAIN WHISKY, JAPAN ($89.50/700 ML)
A grain whisky from a continuous still probably shouldn’t be this good … but it is very good, indeed. In fact, whisky expert Jim Murray has rated past vintages Japanese Whisky of the Year three times over the course of five years. Fragrant,
× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT WWW.QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/
biscuity notes swill around dollops of pear, with just a mild touch of smokiness. Soft and mellow in the mouth, with surprising complexity that leads to a long, mildly fruity finish. (TS) NIKKA TAKETSURU PURE MALT WHISKY, JAPAN ($79.95/700 ML)
This “pure malt” (aka “vatted malt”, aka a blend of single malts) offers up aromatic suggestions of malted grain, citrus peel, and some slightly earthy nuances that lead into a fairly robustly-structured whisky, that remains elegant and balanced. There’s a dash of cayenne pepperiness in there as well to make things interesting. The finish is long and memorable, with a little spiciness that hangs on. (TS) NIKKA MIYAGIKYO SINGE MALT WHISKY, JAPAN ($91.95/700ML)
Constructed in 1969, Miyagikyo is the second of Nikka’s two distilleries. Stylistically, it can probably best be seen as the “highland” to the Yoichi’s more “island” style. There’s some evident sherry cask aging going on here, resulting in aromatics that feature sultana, baking spice, pear drop and orange peel. Dry and elegantly structured, with beautiful balance and just a suggestion of smoke on the palate. A subtle fruitiness reappears as the flavours trail off. (TS) NIKKA YOICHI SINGE MALT WHISKY, JAPAN ($91.95/700 ML)
The first Nikka distillery, was built in 1934 on Hokkaido, Japan’s second main island. Those who appreciate a more “seaside” style with a bit of peat — or those who like the concept of a malt aged close to the sea but find the Islay expressions just a bit too much — will really appreciate Nikka’s flagship whisky. This is an intriguing whisky, with delicate — though obvious — notes of brine and smoke. However, these are tempered by floral/lemongrass undertones. Powerful, but in no way overpowering, it offers a collage of flavours that nicely combine salty, smoky, malty and fruity … with just a hint of cracked pepper in the end note. (TS) SUMMER 2020 33
AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER
IF THE STEREOTYPICAL IMAGE OF CANADA IS THE MOUNTIES, MOOSE AND MAPLE SYRUP, ARGENTINA’S IS TANGO, ASADO AND MALBEC. For those who have never
had the good fortune to experience it, asado is a traditional Argentinean barbeque. In her book Vivo Argentino: An Insider’s Guide to the Wines and Wine Country of Argentina, Laura Catena describes this essential culinary event: “All Argentine asados begin with a meat selection … a varied selection of cuts, as well as different sausages, including short ribs, flank roast, skirt steak, pork sausages and blood sausages. About 1 pound (1/2 kilo) of meat and sausages is the typical portion per adult.” A dining experience not for the faint of heart. And, of course, this is all washed down with Malbec. During a week-long trip to Argentina in December, I visited 12 wineries, starting at Mendoza City, then down the Uco Valley to Vista Flores. I also tasted a variety of Bonarda (Argentina’s second most widely planted red grape), as well as Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Tannat, Bordeaux blends, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Semillon, Chenin Blanc, Viognier, a selection of rosés, and some terrific sparkling wines (especially those from Chandon — Moët’s Argentinian operation) at bargain prices you would not believe. But Malbec rules here. And these Malbecs, whether fermented in cement tanks, great oak foudres or barriques, are stylish, fruit-driven wines, reasonably priced so that Argentinians may enjoy them. (Note that annual wine consumption in Argentina is currently 18 litres per head, significantly down from 37.7 litres in 2004 and dramatically down from 90 litres in the 1980s.) Here are the top ten Malbecs I tasted on my travels: Trapiche Terroir Series Malbec Finca Coletta 2015 Mendel Malbec 2017 34 SUMMER 2020
Matervini Alteza Malbec 2016 and 2017 Catena Mundus Bacillus Terrae Malbec 2016 Zuccardi Finca Piedra Infinita Altamira Malbec 2015 Zuccardi Aluvional Gualtallary Malbec 2015 Luigi Bosco Terroir Malbec Los Miradores 2017 Monteviejo Marcello Pilleriti Signature Malbec 2016 Caro Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
As you go from winery to another, it is easy to concentrate only on the Malbecs. But I had an amazing experience with a Cabernet blend at Bodegas y Cavas Weinert in Lujan de Coyo, Mendoza. Weinert’s winemaker Hubert Weber showed me an electronic copy of a Toronto Star column I had written, dated February 6th, 1988. It was a report on the Toronto Wine & Cheese Show and a competition held by the organizers: a blind tasting of all the wines to be presented at the show. I had written that the “Best Imported Wine under $10 was Weinert Carrascal 1978, and our panel had voted it Best Overall Wine of Show.” I described it then as “a stunningly rich Bordeaux-style blend with ripe black cherry and chocolatey tones.” Weber had a surprise for me. From the winery’s library, he produced a bottle of the 1978 Carrascal and opened it. Its colour was mature ruby and it had a spicy bouquet of soy, tobacco and plum. The fruit had a sweet core. It was beautifully balanced, with a lovely mouthfeel and ripe tannins. And it was still youthful! In 1978, you could get it for $7.75. Today, you would pay a hundred times that. If I were to award “Best Wine of the Trip,” the honour would go to Zuccardi Finca Piedra Infinita Altamira Malbec 2015 from the southern end of the Uco Valley. Opaque purple in colour, it offered a concentrated bouquet of black fruits with floral notes and oak spice. It was full bodied, juicy but firm, and beautifully balanced with a long, lingering finish. × ILLUSTRATION: ROBB MIRSKY, WWW.ROBBMIRSKY.COM
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Classic Cabernet Sauvignon. Currant, blackberry, cigar box with touches of chocolate, cedar and pencil lead. Full flavored & just so damn good. I should raise the price. - Charles Smith