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NEW
PREMIUM SAKE
SAKE IN FOLDER
Easy to drink, Manga sakeis a high quality Junmai. Originating from the brithplace of sake in Japan and produced by a famous and highly respected japanese sake brewery dating from the 19th century Meiji era.
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MAY/JUNE 2019 16
E
A COMPARISON OF VINTAGES GURVINDER BHATIA
Learn how the terroir in Piedmont defines vintage character.
NCH 26
PLANT POWER
Plant based proteins are finding a place in our dishes.
COLUMNS 6 | LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO What should I do with all my leftover fruit husks and citrus peels? Trash them in your cocktail.
8 | MUST TRY Almost everyone has a grasp on cooking fish, while being terrified to cook the whole thing.
9 | LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC It’s time to prepare for beer festival season.
28 | BUYING GUIDE The best wine, beer and spirits from around the world, critiqued by our expert tasting panel.
34 | AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER The French have to take some blame for legitimizing the coupe as the emoji for Champagne.
10 | BRUT JORDAN ST JOHN When you think of the modern craft beer era, innovation is the first thing that comes to mind for a lot of people.
12 | LIVING IT TOD STEWART Discovering the beauty of Portugal, one glass at a time.
20 | MAKEOVER MICHELLE BOUFFARD To understand the modern style of Australian Grenache, one needs to first look at its history and evolution.
23 | UNDER THE RADAR CHRISTINE SISMONDO Never heard of raicilla? Don’t worry. It’s not you.
on twitter: @quench_mag instagram.com/quenchmagazine facebook.com/quenchmag youtube.com/c/quenchmagazine quenchmagazine.tumblr.com for recent back issues: back.quench.me
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MAY/JUNE 2019 3
LETTER FROM THE WINE EDITOR
WWW.QUENCH.ME EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Aldo Parise editor@quench.me WINE EDITOR
Gurvinder Bhatia gbhatia@quench.me MANAGING EDITOR
Lisa Hoekstra lhoekstra@quench.me CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
Tod Stewart tstewart@quench.me COLUMNISTS
Tony Aspler, Robin LeBlanc, Peter Rockwell, Christine Sismondo CONTRIBUTORS
Jordan St. John, Michelle Bouffard, Christine Sismondo, Jonathan Smithe
ARE YOU A WINE LOVER OR A WINE DRINKER? THE IMMEDIATE RESPONSE IS LIKELY TO BE, “WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?” Do you generally drink the same wine? Are you reluctant to
try wines made from unfamiliar grape varieties, producers or regions? Do you default to commercially well-known brands with eye-catching packing and marketing/promotional campaigns? When attending a banquet or reception, do you acquiesce to the generic plonk generally served at such events because the expectation is that “for an event this size, it doesn’t matter. People will drink it anyway.” Or are you curious to try wines from grape varieties, producers and regions that you’ve never tried before? Do you seek recommendations from experienced wine professionals who champion quality, value, transparency and sense of place? Are you concerned with where your wine is from and the story behind the people, place, culture and history of its home? Are you excited to share new wine finds with colleagues, family and friends? If you answered affirmatively to the first group of questions, you are a wine drinker. Positive responses to the questions in the following paragraph are indicative of a wine lover. Let’s be clear, there’s nothing wrong with being a wine drinker. In fact, most wine lovers started out as wine drinkers. But drinking wine just for the sake of drinking wine does not a lover make. Similarly, eating food only for the sake of sustenance does not make someone a food lover. But there can be an evolution where we become more concerned with the quality and lineage of what we consume and develop a curiosity beyond just the familiar. When we take pleasure from separating the glitter from the gold, embrace the undiscovered and under-valued, and know that being called a “wine snob” simply means that you are not content to drink garbage, regardless of the price point (and there is garbage in all price points). It’s great to be a wine drinker, but to ensure the sustainability of the wine industry and the existence of distinct, quality producers who represent the heart and soul of the wine industry, we should all strive and encourage others to be wine lovers. The world needs more wine lovers.
4 MAY/JUNE 2019
TASTERS
Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Michelle Bouffard, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Tim Pawsey, Michaela Morris and Jonathan Smithe CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Elvis Deane COPY DESK
Holland Gidney, Emma Fucci
CREATIVE BY PARIS ASSOCIATES PRODUCTION WebFree, ww+Labs,
Designs In Response PHOTOGRAPHY
Push/Stop, Take the Next Shot
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FETA CHEESE IN FOLDER
LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO
DRINK LIKE YOU GIVE A F**K Here’s a bartending question you’ve probably never asked yourself: What should I do with all my leftover fruit husks and citrus peels? For most people, the answer is the green bin. But if you ask a bartender who, night after busy night, has made fresh juice for cocktails and then contemplated just how much pulp and rind winds up getting tossed, the answer is different. There’s flavour in them there peels. Most bartenders only started seeing their discarded citrus as potential flavour sources after Trash Tiki — a zero-waste educational pop-up — shone a light on the amount of waste created by contemporary cocktail culture. Trash Tiki, a movement conceived by bartending power-couple Kelsey Ramage and Iain Griffiths, not only raises awareness but also offers solutions for how to turn trash into tasty tiki cocktails. Just as you can turn a turkey carcass into litres of delicious soup, so too can you unlock flavour from bar waste. Its catch line says it all: “Drink Like You Give a F**k.” “We both came up with the idea when we were working with the Lyan Group,” says Griffiths, who famously opened cocktail meccas Dandelyan and White Lyan with Ryan Chetiyawardana in London, England. “We were always trying to be as waste-efficient as possible, but I guess we both always just looked at what we were doing and felt we could do more.” Griffiths adds that it wasn’t an easy decision to step back from Dandelyan, a bar that’s been voted best in the world, but he and Ramage (also part of the bar team at Lyan Group), decided to give up their homes and jobs, and launch a traveling zero-waste-bartending class that, between December 2016 and March 2018, popped up in about 30 cities on five continents. After that whirlwind tour, the pair settled in Toronto (Ramage is Canadian, originally from Salmon Arm, British Columbia), where they concentrate on developing more environmental initiatives. 6 MAY/JUNE 2019
“What we really wanted to do is give some inspiration and practical tools to the bartending community,” says Ramage, “Which is why all our recipes are available on our website. They’re all fairly basic and easy to execute, and I think some of them even give new flavours that haven’t been used in the industry before.” Ramage is referring to some of the green, funky and bitter flavours they’ve drawn out of discarded fruit, which can add complexity and new dimensions to cocktails — especially, of course, tiki drinks, which are the central focus of the initiative. The pair chose that genre to illustrate the concept because of its opulent use of fruit and over-the-top garnishes — serving single drinks in pineapples, for example. “Pretty much every bar that we’ve been to has pineapple husks,” says Ramage. “So we should make a second use out of them so that you’re not constantly buying pineapples, juicing them and then chucking them away.” Here, they share their recipe for “Basic Bitch” Pineapple Tepache, a fermented pineapple drink that can be enjoyed on its own or spiked with tequila or mezcal. For more recipes, go to trashtikisucks.com
BASIC BITCH TEPACHE
1 pineapple; rinds, pulp, core, whatever. If you have juice that you can’t use at the end of the night, lob that in there as well. 1 l water 1 cinnamon stick 5 cloves 20 allspice berries 1 g (ish) yeast (brewer’s is fine) 250 g sugar
Leave it all to ferment at room temperature for a few days, tasting it occasionally. The longer you leave it, the more sugar the yeast will consume and the dryer it will be. When the sweetness is at the desired level, strain and refrigerate. × × VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/MIXED/ FOR MORE DRINK RECIPES
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This July, the world comes to Niagara to
CELEBRATE CHARDONNAY
I4C IN FOLDER Be part of the global adventure! July 19-21, 2019 50 winemakers I 9 countries I 135 wines I 20 + events Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Gamay at select events
TICKETS ON SALE NOW I
MUST TRY
THE BREAM DREAM While almost everyone has a grasp on cooking fish, people seem terrified to cook the whole thing. Sure there are maybe a couple more steps, but it’s still quite simple. Honestly, your biggest problem might be finding a fish that isn’t filleted. So if you come across one at your local grocery store or you just happen upon a fish monger, don’t hesitate. Your taste buds will thank you.
8 MAY/JUNE 2019
OVEN ROASTED SEA BREAM SERVES 2 TO 4
2 4 6 1 85
sea bream, about 350g each, cleaned and scaled sprigs fresh thyme cloves garlic, finely sliced dried red chilli, crumbled ml dry white wine Extra-virgin olive oil, to serve
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Lay out two large pieces of foil (each big enough to tent the fish) and lightly oil the centre. Put the sea bream into the foil and score the fish 3 or 4 times on each side. Season inside and out, and tuck in a couple of sprigs of thyme, the garlic and half the chilli. 3. Over the top, spread the rest of the chilli and the leaves from the remaining thyme. Drizzle some olive oil inside and over the top of the fish. Fold up the foil and pour in the wine. Scrunch together the edges of the foil to make a tent, leaving enough space for the fish to steam. Do not wrap too tightly. 4. Place the fish on a baking sheet and cook for 20 to 25 minutes. Check to see whether the fish is cooked by looking at the flesh near the bone in the thickest part. It should be opaque and not at all glassy. 5. Once cooked, plate each parcel carefully and serve along with roasted vegetables. MATCH: You might be thinking Viognier or even a Chardonnay but you might want to try a light Gamay from Niagara. Or better yet a rosé from pretty much anywhere. ×
LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC
BEER FESTIVAL SURVIVAL GUIDE WELL, WE’RE FINALLY (BARELY) STARTING TO ENTER SUMMER! The
patios are opening, the big warming boozy beers are being replaced with the seasonably appropriate light, crisp and flavourful offerings, and everyone is looking forward to putting their summer clothes on and enjoying some much-needed fun in the sun. A big part of that fun is going to all the wonderful beer festivals. Whether it’s internationally renowned festivals like the Great British Beer Festival in London, Mondial de la Bière in Montreal and the Qingdao International Beer Festival in China, or the more localized festivals like Session Toronto, the Edmonton Craft Beer Festival and Sawdust City’s Funkfest, beer festivals make for a wonderful outing, with lots of beer experimentation abound. They can also be a source of great intimidation. After all, when you’re at a festival and have access to some of the best beer the city, province or even the world has to offer, it’s easy to feel a little over-
whelmed and deal with some significant fear of missing out on some beers. By the same turn, it’s also very easy to get a little carried away with yourself at a festival and forget some of the practical measures that come with having a few too many. So with that, I’m here to offer you a few practical tips on surviving a beer festival this year. Whether it’s your first one or your twentieth, it’s always good to keep these tips in mind. GO IN WITH A PLAN: Most of these festivals will put up a list in advance that details the breweries and beers that will be present. Look through it and highlight which ones you’d really like to try. YOU AREN’T GOING TO DRINK EVERYTHING: Many of these festivals will have
thousands and thousands of different beers available and, while it’s noble to want to pay each and every one of them your respects, you may as well face facts — it’s just not going to happen. Focus on the highlighted beers you’d like to try and make a note to try the others some other time, either at a bar or at the next festival!
BRING CASH: Beer tokens cost money
and many of the token booths don’t take cards. There are ATM machines, but those can have a long wait, destroying what precious time you have to explore the beers at the festival. REMEMBER TO EAT SOMETHING: Drinking on an empty stomach is, as we all know, a recipe for disaster. All of these festivals usually have some food options available, so making use of them would be beneficial for your health and your taste buds. STAY HYDRATED: No, I don’t mean just with beer. Bring a bottle of water with you and make sure to refill it at certain intervals at the festival. GET A CAB HOME: After spending an entire day drinking beer, does it really have to be said that you shouldn’t drive home afterwards? Ditch the car and take a cab. Have fun! Probably the most important rule! You’re exploring some truly world-class beers with thousands of others. Make friends! Taste some good beer! Enjoy yourself! × MAY/JUNE 2019 9
BRUT by Jordan St John
When you think of the modern craft beer era, the first thing that comes to mind for a lot of people is innovation. New, innovative styles of beer catch on fairly quickly and they can pop up on the other side of the world overnight due to social media hype.
At one time, beer was dictated by geographical boundaries, which is why you might try making a German Lager or an English Pale Ale. But now — rather than emulating existing forms — brewers are interested in ingredients and methodology when developing beer, allowing them to explore an entire range of flavours. Bitterness was the hallmark of the previous decades’ beers, with massive IPAs and exciting new hop varieties leading a wave of innovation. Regardless of the number of fruit or floral or herbal aromas that now exist, bitterness is only one colour on the palette. Kettle Sours in the United States have done exciting things with lactobacillus bacteria in terms of the acidity and tartness of beer. When it comes to the range of residual sugar as a component of flavour, there have been many different methods employed. Traditionally, dryness was a question of the quality of the yeast that you were using. A basic ale yeast would leave behind some residual sugar because that yeast couldn’t digest all of the sugars derived from grains. Lager yeast can eat an additional complex sugar called melibiose, which is the reason that lagers are traditionally thought of as being crisper than ales. Wild yeast like brettanomyces can also eat additional sugars, but in doing so, they create a horse blanket or barnyard aroma that is only appropriate in a few styles. In some cases, Belgian brewers will add purely fermentable sugars to combine alcohol and carbonation without adding additional body, leading to sparkling Golden Ales with a lot of character. For something to be bone dry without creating off flavours, special methods need to be employed. In the case of the Bosteels Brewery in Buggenhout, Belgium, this means using a 10 MAY/JUNE 2019
technique from the world of wine. Bosteels’ Deus is an 11.5 percent Belgian Ale introduced in 2002 and styled as a Brut des Flandres, borrowing terminology from those driest of sparkling wines. The aroma has notes of orange blossom and lemon, with a suggestion of sweet barley in its effervescent body, despite having a finish as dry as a saltine cracker. To accomplish this feat, the beer is prepared in the traditional méthode champenoise. Deus completes the first fermentation as usual but then matures the beer for 12 months before undergoing remuage to allow the yeast to dégorge when opened. By the time it is ready for the drinker, it will have undergone nearly a year and a half of maturation and three fully separate fermentation processes. This method has been emulated with some success by breweries internationally and locally. Down the road in Buggenhout, the Malheur Brewery has two varieties, light and dark, that use the same method. Gypsy brewers Mikkeller have also experimented with the range, dry hopping with Nelson Sauvin for an increased sense of New Zealand Sauvignon minerality. In Canada, Charlevoix’s Dominus Vobiscum Brut uses the same techniques to great effect. A style where 18 months worth of careful, measured effort is required to produce a bottle of beer is probably only achievable by established companies with a lot of patience and warehouse space. The rabid enthusiasm of the North American craft beer market might go through a half dozen trends in that period. Developed initially by Kim Sturdavant of Social Kitchen and Brewery in San Francisco just 18 months ago, Brut IPA has already caught on quickly around the world.
DAN MYERS, HEAD BREWER AT LEFT FIELD
In the same way that brewers create lactobacillus Kettle Sours that take mere weeks to emulate the acidity of Lambics that might take three years to produce naturally, they have found a faster way to get to market. To create a beer as dry as bones bleaching in the sun, brewers have been using an enzymatic shortcut: glucoamylase. Glucoamylase breaks down complex sugars into simple sugars, which are easily consumed by traditional ale yeast. There’s no need for remuage or dégorgement. Glucoamylase cuts down the time needed to achieve perfect dryness from 18 months to a couple of days. Although Brut IPA lacks the excitement of a popping cork, it does meet drinkers where they live: in the heart of the most popular craft beer style in the world. Brut IPA came along at a time when IPAs were beginning to get a little same-y. Massively hazy glasses of beer approximately the colour of orange juice and redolent of citrus and tropical fruit tend to lack nuance. By removing the sweetness of the beer in the glass, Brut IPA as a subgenre allows for more nuance in hop char-
acter, allowing more berry, stone fruit and spicy herbal characteristics to climb out from under the fruit salad. Similar to the original Brut beers, the attraction here has to do with brilliant carbonation, expansive aroma and aridity on the palate. The only difference is in the alcohol content, which is reduced in the new style. Sierra Nevada’s Brut IPA is 6.2 percent and uses some Crystal hops to produce a little blackcurrant aroma. Scotland’s Brewdog has gone with Ariana hops to punch up gooseberry and red fruit aromas. In Canada, Toronto’s Left Field has released Burst, a Mimosa Brut IPA with the addition of white grape concentrate to focus the connotation of Champagne. Whether Brut IPAs are merely a trend remains to be seen, although there have been hundreds of attempts in the 18 months since its existence. Perhaps the most exciting part is not the style but the addition of another tool to brewers’ arsenals the world over. The ability to play around with residual sugar in beer could easily stretch in any number of directions. Glucoamylase promises to create some options in the near future to keep a trend-hungry market sated. × MAY/JUNE 2019 11
LIVING IT
by Tod Stewart
“Then it seemed that I was travelling through the granite hills of Dão, with a vineyard spread in front of me, in a carriage headed south. Night came with the skies aflame, and all that I saw was all mine to claim.” Al Stewart, “King of Portugal” The main difference between that Mr. Stewart’s predicament and this Mr. Stewart’s predicament was that Al was imagining it whereas I was living it. Indeed, I was travelling through the granite hills of Dão. There certainly was a vineyard spread in front of me, and I was in a carriage (okay, a Land Rover) headed south. In fact, I was headed very decidedly south. Like, straight down, on about a 75-degree angle. I wondered, albeit for but a nanosecond, if the intent of Filipe Ferreira and his pal Luis from the Quinta do Covão winery was to splatter us all over the granite hills of the vineyard spread in front of us as part of some bizarre suicidal sacrifice to the deities of the vines. As it turned out, they were damn good drivers who really had no life-ending in12 MAY/JUNE 2019
tentions. However, scaring the crap out of me was a possible intention. In any case, they got me back to their digs, plied me with food and some crisp Colheita Selecionado Dão 2016, its mineral/melon/citrus aromas and clean, balanced, elegant taste profile calming my still-edgy nerves. I also knocked back a few reds, including the Quinta do Covão Tinto 2014 and Quinta do Covão 2015 Tinto Reserva Touriga Nacional. The former offered elegant vanilla, smoke and Bing cherry nuances; the latter — from 25-year-old vines — was complex, concentrated and rich, yet with the elegance typically associated with Dão reds. They were consummate “food wines,” maybe a bit angular on their own, but they were perfect with the wonderful home-cooked Portuguese lunch in which I was indulging.
For a country so geographically diminutive (relatively speaking), Portugal is historically, culturally and (importantly) gastronomically expansive. At one point in time, it ruled the seas and consequently, the Western world. I was to learn all about Portugal in the best — and, in fact, the only — way to really do so. By hopping on a Transportes Aéreos Portugueses (TAP) flight to Lisbon and doing the country tip-to-toe. During my week-long tour, I came to love many things about Portugal— from the parched vineyards of Alentejo to the dizzying drops of the Douro valley. However, the Lisbon airport was not one of those things. Tourists have figured out the magic of Portugal. Transportation authorities have not. So, let’s pretend you’ve just landed at LIS. And let’s just say you’re standing at the luggage carousel that says “Toronto.” And let’s speculate that you haven’t noticed the airline that’s off-boarding is Air Canada (AC), not TAP. After about a half hour, you start wondering, “where the hell is my luggage?” Well, nice surprise, it’s sitting out on the floor by the TAP carousel, waiting to be pinched. Seems “Toronto” can only be associated with AC,
LEONOR FREITAS, MATRIARCH OF CASA ERMELINDA FREITAS-VINHOS
not TAP. Such fun. Depending on your agenda (and patience), you might want to divert your flight from Lisbon and make a beeline straight to Porto. I did, eventually, make my way to Porto through some of Portugal’s most captivating scenery, fortified with some equally captivating wine, food and company. Winding down on the patio of the Reguengo de Melagaço hotel and winery located in Portugal’s most northerly wine region, Vinho Verde, and sipping one of the most exceptional aguradentes I’ve ever experienced, I gazed across the Minho River where the woods of neighbouring Spain’s Galicia region burned and lit the night. Talk about the skies aflame. Thankfully, I was well out of harm’s way
and feeling quite relaxed, having enjoyed dinner with Reguengo’s genial owner, Vitor Cardadeiro, earlier in the evening. In Canada, we are still adjusting to the concept that the white wines of Vinho Verde can be “serious.” We’re told they’re light, low-alcohol, spritzy fun. Try again. The wines of Reguengo de Melagaço are anything but. Made from 100 percent Alvarinho, these white wines rival the world’s best. Spritzy and light? No way. If you’re more familiar with Spain’s Albariño wines, you’re sort of getting the profile. Sort of. Reguengo de Melagaço’s 100 percent Alvarinho 2017, with its mineral/tropical fruit/ floral notes wrapped itself seductively around our traditional seafood meal. MAY/JUNE 2019 13
Knowing I’d be drinking — sorry, “tasting” — a fair bit at Quinta da Foz and Quinta do Silval, my ports (ahem) of call in the Douro, and that tasting on an empty stomach is never a good plan, I decided to consume some olive oil first. NOTHING CAN BETTER EXPOSE YOU TO THE MAJESTY OF THE DOURO THAN THE VIEW FROM THE ARRIBAS DO DOURO TERRACE. With the stunning
drop of the valley in front of me, I sampled not only wine (the floral, melon/mineral Douro Blanco 2016; the ripe black cherry, vanilla and smoke-nuanced Douro Tinto 2015; and the Douro Tinto Reserva 2015, with restrained blueberry, wet slate and new leather on the nose, followed by a round, moderately rich and complex palate) but also some luscious, super-intense extra virgin olive oils, courtesy of Miguel Madeira Massa. 14 MAY/JUNE 2019
Massa oversees both the wines of Arribas do Douro and the olive oils (and other olive-based products) that fall under the Porttable (see what he did there?) brand. His olive-based items are unique for a couple reasons, notably the olives used to make them. “Our region has a table olive variety that does not exist in any other part of the world. It is called Negrinha de Freixo, and it is confined to this remote region of Freixo de Espada à Cinta,” Massa explained, adding that he hopes that one day this variety will be as well known as Kalamata olives from Greece. “The Negrinha de Freixo variety, apart from having very low yields when transformed into olive oil, has a very unique taste, close to banana. Our olive oils are typically composed of a blend of four varieties: Negrinha de Freixo, Cobrancosa, Madural and Verdeal.”
As fun as a liquid snack can be, solid food is always welcome. This was provided by way of Porttable black and green tapenades, and a range of regional cheeses from Martins & Rebello, a dairy operation started in 1901. As I sampled a variety of cheeses made from cow, goat, sheep and blends of cow and sheep, Export Director Daniel Silva talked a bit about his company and the cheeses it produces. “Today, Martins & Rebello is part of Indulac Industrias Lácteas, a family-owned cheesemaker founded and represented by the fourth generation of one of the founding families of Martins & Rebello. “Our exclusive and award-wining cheeses are produced using Portuguese traditional methods, with the Rebello family’s knowledge and techniques, as well as century-old exclusive recipes.” Silva points to the wide variety of textures — from amanteigado (soft) and car-
do (semi-soft) cheeses, to hard versions, with flavours that can be either mild or sharp — as key to the company’s unique range. He talks; I eat. THAT NIGHT I BUNKED AT THE CHARMING HOTEL CASA DE SANTA CRUZ. Unbelievably, I was the only guest
in this recently upgraded and modernized boutique lodging. As I headed out to find some dinner, one of the friendly staff informed me that the hotel was closing at 8 o’clock. Handing me the key, she instructed me to re-lock the door upon my return and that she’d see me in the morning for breakfast. That was a first. Arriving at Quinta da Foz the next day, I met up with Senhor Ferreira from Quinta do Covão. Turns out he’s a rather busy boy, with two wineries to oversee. If there was a better way to get a sense of the valley, the river and the surrounding vineyards and wineries than by boat, I couldn’t imagine it. Relaxing with a glass of wine in the back seat of the “Syrah Régua,” with the afternoon sun radiating from a cloudless sky, I almost drifted off myself as we languorously drifted along the Douro. Later, lounging by the pool at the winery and having tasted through a range of Quinta da Foz table wines (ending with the spectacular Quinta da Foz Gran Reserva 2015, a single-vineyard red made only in the best years and sporting the density, fruit/acidity integration and budding complexity that signals a long life ahead), Ferreira — with his firsthand knowledge of both regions, explained some of the differences between the wines of Dão and those of Douro. What I learned (WARNING: sweeping generalizations ahead) was that if the wines of the Douro were about power, then those of Dão were more about elegance, and that only fairly recently has the age-worthiness of Dão wines come to be recognized and appreciated. Dinner and my accommodations that night were provided courtesy of Alexandre Magalhães at Quinta do Silval. Surrounded by the Douro’s famous terraced vineyards, and sporting another welcome pool, the quaint hotel/winery crafts outstanding wines and serves some pretty mean meals. Over one that night, featur-
ing possibly the best octopus I’ve ever eaten, I asked Magalhães (who seriously reminded me of Javier Bardem) about the rise in importance of Douro table wines, and if this was an indication that the region’s historic fortified wines were falling out of favour. “Some new categories of port wine were introduced into the market, like Ruby Reserve and Ruby LBV,” he revealed. “Port wines in these special categories are increasing their market share, but interest in entry-level categories is decreasing.” He noted that Douro table wines continue to perform well, due in no small part to the region’s historic reputation. We tasted a few exceptional table wines with dinner (the Dorna Velha Grande Reserva 2014 was a particular highlight), but the Magalhães 2004 Vintage Port, tinged with aromas and flavours of sultana, graphite and dense blackberry served as a potent reminder that the Douro’s traditional wine star has in no way lost its sparkle. Certainly not as sweet as port, but in some cases almost equally powerful, the wines of Alentejo will appeal to those looking for juice with a bit more flesh than those of the north. I found myself in the region, seated in the País das Uvas restaurant, just outside the town of Vidigueira, with Morais Rocha, proprietor of the eponymously named winery, after about a four-hour drive south from the vibrant, oeno-historic city of Porto. On the way down, I took a bit of a detour into the Lisbon area to say hello to Márcio Ferreira, Export Director at Casa Ermelinda Freitas-Vinhos. Most of the wineries I visited on my excursion were small to mid-sized. CEF-V is, well, big, with extensive vineyard plantings, state-of-the-art facilities and a wide range of wines covering all styles, from sparkling to sweet. I tasted about 10 of them, and rather than reprint all of my tasting notes (which would be as boring to read as they would be to type up), I’ll offer this observation: if it’s a quality-driven winery, its wines will (in theory) also be high quality. In the case of CEF-V, that theory was proven in the tasting. Keep an eye out for the flinty, crisp Alvariñho 2016, the bold, succulent Dona
Ermelinda Reserva 2015, and the intense, menthol and lead pencil/gunflint-driven Dona Ermelinda Grande Reserve 2011. The tasting was also proof that quality and quantity can actually co-exist. While in the area, you might want to swing into the Lourinhã DOC to taste only one of three brandies in the world to carry a geographical designation (Cognac and Armagnac being the other two). Visit the Adega Cooperativa de Lourinhã to taste the reason why. Back at lunch at País das Uvas, it seemed as though I was sitting down to a meal with most of the local population. To say it was served “family style” would be something of an understatement. As food, wine, laughter and song was shared, I sipped Rocha’s crisp, floral, peach-scented JJ Verdejlho 2017 before hunkering down (about six wines later) with a topped-up glass of the Cabernet/ Syrah-based Morais Rocha Reserva 2013. Packed with ripe, concentrated, smoky dark plum and tobacco notes laced with cedar, mocha and vanilla, it was a 15 percent ABV blockbuster. IT’S ABOUT 1:30AM and I’m on the streets
of Lisbon, taking in the revelry after an astounding seafood feast at the wildly popular and world-renowned Cervejaria Ramiro (check out Anthony Bourdain’s filmed visit on the usual Internet sites). While I said earlier don’t land in Lisbon, I did not say don’t visit. It’s an astounding place. And, as always, when you have dinner around midnight, things tend to run late. Like into the next morning late. But in keeping with what I found everywhere I visited in my somewhat exhausting but perpetually fascinating tour of Portugal, the people of Lisbon, it seemed to me, lived life in high gear; a state that was vivacious yet relaxed, intense and passionate and, ultimately, completely civilized. Much like those I met throughout the country. In fact, people living in the more raucous neighbourhoods of Lisbon are actually paid “overtime” if street revelry carries on later than warranted. Work hard. Play hard. Sleep well. The Portuguese understand the key to pleasure is all in the balance. As it is with Portugal’s wines. × MAY/JUNE 2019 15
A COMPARISON OF by Gurvinder Bhatia
VINTAGES
When wine folk speak of wine having a sense of place and expressing the site where it was grown, the two regions that are most often referenced are Burgundy in France and Piedmont in Italy.
Comparisons between the two regions and the predominant red grape varieties (Pinot Noir in Burgundy and Nebbiolo in Piedmont, both of which are excellent at translating terroir) are common and Piedmontese producers will often allude to possessing a Burgundian philosophy of wine growing, where expressing site in the bottle is paramount. As an agricultural product, wine should always, in my opinion, be a reflection of place. It should also reflect the vintage to which the grapes belong. At the recent Nebbiolo Prima and Grandi Langhe events in Alba, the heart of Piedmont’s Langhe region, producers and wine professionals gathered for all things Nebbiolo and to taste the soon-to-be-released 2016 Barbarescos, 2015 Barolos and a plethora of other vintages of these wines composed exclusively of the regal Nebbiolo grape. What struck me most were the comparisons between the wines of 2014, 2015 and 2016, three vintages that could not be more different.
2014
According to Aldo Vacca of Produttori del Barbaresco, when the grapes were being picked late in the third week of October, growers were happy because they felt that they had saved the vintage from the effects of the heavy rains in the first part of the season. Later on, he says, they would come to realize that not only did they save the vintage but that 2014 was also a very “interesting” vintage, “exciting” and “one of a kind,” which Vacca cannot relate to any other vintage from the past. 16 MAY/JUNE 2019
Nadia Curto of Curto Marco in La Morra says that when September arrived, they had a sense of desperation as the grapes were not ready and the harvest was getting close. But, Curto smiles and goes on to note, “a miracle happened” and September and October maintained good weather, with warm days and cool nights allowing the grapes to ripen and maintain freshness. Curto indicates that they worked a lot in the vineyard and dropped fruit almost every day during August and September. In the end, there was less quantity, but today, when they drink 2014, they are happy as the wines possess good acidity, nuanced structure, fresh floral aromas, balsamic and mint notes, and they are “very, very elegant.” The sentiment that the work done in the vineyard saved the vintage was echoed by all the producers. Vittore Alessandria of Fratelli Alessandria in Verduno insists that if 2014 had happened 30 years ago, the results likely would have been much more negative. But today, with improvements in viticulture, growers are better able to manage their vineyards. Alessandria also adds that the wines benefitted from Nebbiolo being a late-ripening grape since the weather was great from the beginning of September to the beginning of October while several early-ripening grape varieties had a much more difficult time. Alessandria describes the resulting wines as having verticality: good acidity, beautiful aromas, freshness and length. Luca Currado of Vietti in Castiglione Falletto calls 2014 the most surprising of vintages. At the beginning of the harvest, he was not expecting such high quality as there was a significant amount of hail damage. Vietti was only able to bottle 55 percent of its production but Currado indicates that the vineyards not damaged by hail performed very well.
GIUSEPPE CORTESE
PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO PORA, BARBARESCO RISERVA DOCG 2014 ($75)
Firm and fresh with a tight tannic core, bright red fruit and spicy flavours. Balanced and elegant but structured and linear with great length. RIZZI BARBARESCO NERVO 2014 ($50)
Fresh, elegant, floral and engaging with aromas of mint, leather and spice. Flavours of bright cherry, spice and tartness with elegant tannins and fresh acidity on a bright finish. ELVIO COGNO BAROLO RAVERA BRICCO PERNICE 2014 ($90)
Perfumed, structured, refined and layered with incredible complexity, bright fruit, fresh herbs and spice. Well-integrated tannins, vibrant acidity and a long, lifted finish. LUIGI BAUDANA BAROLO BAUDANA 2014 ($95)
Focused and floral, with mint, spice and a purity of fresh fruit accented by mineral notes, firm, yet not overpowering, tannins and a vibrant acidity. The wine is both structured and fresh. Powerful yet accessible.
2015
Aldo Vacca calls 2015 “the classic global warming vintage.” He describes the summer as quite warm, so the grapes ripened but that ripening happened fast. During the harvest, Vacca says they were not particularly excited, believing that the wines would be good, fruity, approachable and easy with ripe tannins. However, thanks to cool September nights, the wines are more complex than what they expected. Although, he adds, “the balance is not there yet. The tannins are a little not ripe, fruit is very sweet. So, with time, it will reach a more balanced complexity.” Nadia Curto says 2015 was “easy work” in the vineyard and that the wines are “relaxed,” meaning more fruity and approachable, but also big and fat, rich and powerful. Luca Currado also believes that 2015 was an “easy” vintage. He indicates that the picking time was very dry and allowed them to harvest every vineyard “at the moment” that they wanted. Currado emphasizes that this is very important for a wine grower because you can choose what style you wish to grow. A producer can choose to have higher acid — like Vietti does, says Currado — or another producer could choose to have more opulence and higher alcohol. MAY/JUNE 2019 17
NADIA COGNO (DAUGHTER OF THE LATE ELVIO COGNO), HER HUSBAND VALTER FISSORE AND THEIR DAUGHTER ELENA.
ALARIO CLAUDIO BAROLO SORANO 2015 ($55)
VIETTI BAROLO ROCCHE DI CASTIGLIONE 2015 ($140)
Lots of ripe fruit, but good balance, a tight core and big, lush tannins. Doesn’t cross the line of being over opulent and still maintains freshness and bright acidity.
Nicely balanced and a wonderful freshness to the ripe fruit, firm structure and good acidity on the long finish.
GIULIA NEGRI BAROLO MARASSIO 2015 ($60)
2016
Grown at over 500 metres, in limestone-rich soils, this stunner is enticing and engaging with power and finesse, just the right amount of austerity, fruit, spice and mineral. Vibrant and built for the long-term. This young producer is one to watch. FRATELLI ALESSANDRIA BAROLO SAN LORENZO DI VERDUNO 2015 ($70)
Pretty, perfumed and elegant. Refined with juicy fresh fruit and fine-grained tannins. Well balanced with a mouth-watering finish. PALLADINO BAROLO ORNATO 2015 ($60)
Full-bodied with a big structure, firm core, incredible complexity and a long, long finish. A fantastic wine that kept bringing me back for another taste as even in its rather closed, youthful state, it continued to evolve and show more as it opened in the glass. Needs time, but already appealing from start to finish. 18 MAY/JUNE 2019
Francesca Vaira of G.D. Vajra in Barolo calls 2016 the kind of vintage they are very grateful for — “a farmer’s vintage” — amazing quality, beautiful fruit and beautiful freshness, together with a little bit more quantity relative to the relatively low yields of 2013, 2014 and 2015. She goes on to explain that a farmer’s vintage gives confidence to the farmer after losing quantity for three years in a row. Luca Currado describes 2016 as difficult to compare to any other harvest that he has done. He calls it something completely different — “like the Cristiano Ronaldo of Barolo.” Currado believes that 2016 was one of the best in his 30 years of winemaking. Vittore Alessandria calls 2016 the best in terms of balance and complexity, with every element in harmony — acidity, structure, aromas, fruit — and it seems right now that the wines are going to
be beautiful. He adds, though, that at the beginning of the harvest, it’s not always so easy to understand the quality of the vintage. CA’ DEL BAIO BARBARESCO ASILI 2016 ($70)
Loads of layers and so well integrated with aromas and flavours of red berry and spice. Focused and elegant, bright and complex, with a long finish. Should provide many years of drinking pleasure. CA’ DEL BAIO BARBARESCO VALLEGRANDE 2016 ($55)
Lovely fruit with layers and an elegant structure. Tight core, balanced and fresh with spice. Firm tannins and refreshing acidity. GIUSEPPE CORTESE BARBARESCO RABAJA 2016 ($75)
Intense with red berry and warm spice, ripe fruit, firm tannins, juicy acidity. Well constructed and quite tasty now but this one is built to last. RIZZI BARBARESCO PAJORE 2016 ($55)
Engaging with great construction, layers upon layers of flavour nuances. Fragrant, juicy and elegant with an abundance of red fruit and liquorice, but extremely fresh, well balanced and focussed. CASTELLO DI NEIVE BARBARESCO SANTO STEFANO 2016 ($65)
Firm and linear with floral, red berry and spice aromas and flavours. Nice balance and complexity. The tannins start a little hard but become integrated rather quickly with a little air. Finishes long and with a youthful vibrancy.
In comparing the anticipated longevity and drinkability of the three vintages, Aldo Vacca believes that 2016 is the one with the longest potential, perhaps 30 years due to its complexity and structure. He describes 2014 as a beautiful vintage to drink young, ideally within the first 10 years of its life, as the balance is so pretty. He also describes 2014 as a vintage where it is fun to enjoy the young Nebbiolo fruit, which he says is normally killed a little by the tannins in a young Barolo or Barbaresco. For 2015, Vacca believes that the wines will not age very long because the fruit is ripe but the tannins are aggressive. He says 2015 is the one with the smaller drinkability window, perhaps between eight to 15 years. Vittore Alessandria concisely agrees, saying that 2014 will keep longer than 2015 because of the acidity. According to him, 2015 is not a vintage to wait that long to drink and that 2016 is a classic vintage that will age well. The lessons to be learned regarding vintage variation: 1) it is important to remember that good producers will generally make good wine regardless of the vintage, but the wine will, and should, reflect the vintage; 2) vintage should not trump site. Wines will be influenced by the vintage, but wines from good producers should always express the site where they have been grown; and 3) perhaps the greatest takeaway is to not get too caught up in the hype of a perceived great vintage and, more significantly, the avoidance of a perceived poor vintage. If producers admittedly have a difficult time predicting the quality of the wines at the time of harvest, who are the rest of us to declare “vintage of the century” or “avoid like the plague.” Hindsight is 20/20 for a reason. × MAY/JUNE 2019 19
MAKEOVER by Michelle Bouffard
The thermometer is reading 40 degrees Celsius. But, technically, it’s still spring. On my table, 50 red wine glasses are lined up for us to taste blind. I am sitting on a chair in the barrel room of a winery in McLaren Vale. I have been invited to serve as the international judge for the McLaren Vale Wine Show. Evaluating wine when sweat is dripping down your forehead is not an easy task. Suddenly, there is a strong anticipation of a long week followed by flight after flight of big, bold reds. The smile on my face is genuine. Until we’re asked to start.
I put my lips around a light ruby-coloured wine served at the perfect temperature. Wine Number 1. Light on its feet and generous yet contained. Crunchy red cherry notes enhanced by fragrant aromas. Supple and silky, it is almost a slightly bigger version of a delicate Pinot Noir. Wine Numbers 2 and 3, similar experience. What else could it be but Grenache? This grape that was often made as a caricature of itself is now stealing my heart. Clearly, it has gone through a major makeover. To understand the modern style of Australian Grenache, one needs to first look at its history and evolution. This grape of Spanish origin — made famous by French winemakers in the southern Rhône — arrived in Australia in 1832. It was part of the James Busby original collection and was first planted in 1838 in South Australia, where it found a happy home. Known to reach high sugar levels, Grenache was especially favoured for the production of fortified wine between the 1920s and 1960s. We often forget that until the ’60s, fortified wine made up 80 percent of the Australian wine industry. But unfortunately, when consumers turned to table wine, Grenache’s production decreased dramatically. Even though it was perfectly adapted to the climate, producers began pulling out old vines and replanting with more trendy grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. People like Charles Melton — who celebrated the cultivar by establishing the label Nine Popes, a wine inspired by Châteauneuf-duPape — were in minority. It was not until the ’90s and especially the beginning of the 21st century that Grenache was again celebrated. The table wine style of Grenache has evolved dramatically in the last two decades. Full-bodied wines with jammy fruit that were merely in symbiosis with the overdose of oak and high alcohol, often reaching 14.5 perecent ABV, were palate fatiguing. And, just like with fortified wine, those bottles sold to market had a shelf life with consumers. The trend towards lighter and more refreshing reds was growing around the world and producers took note. One of the greatest strengths of the Australian wine industry is to listen and react smartly, and fast. Gone are the days where those big, bold and rich Grenache were celebrated. Instead, most winemakers are seeking to craft savoury wines where, 20 MAY/JUNE 2019
FRANK MITOLO AND WINEMAKER BEN GLAETZER
YANGARRA WINEMAKER PETER FRASER AND VITICULTURALIST MICHAEL LANE
MAY/JUNE 2019 21
OCHOTA BARRELS GREEN ROOM 2018, MCLAREN VALE ($40)
A wine that embodies the new style of Grenache. Fresh and crunchy with bright notes of sour cherries and wild strawberries. Serve slightly chilled. Dangerously easy to drink. #glouglou YANGARRA ESTATE VINEYARD OLD VINE GRENACHE 2016, MCLAREN VALE ($35)
Made according to biodynamic farming principals, this wine can easily be mistaken for a topnotch Châteauneuf-du-Pape in a blind tasting. Rich yet savoury with impressive balance and complexity. This is serious business. YALUMBA OLD BUSH VINE GRENACHE 2016, BAROSSA ($20)
Once upon a time, this wine’s beauty was masked by a little bit too much makeup. The oak is gone now and the natural look is much better. Generous notes of strawberries and ripe raspberries but still displays finesse and elegance. Outstanding value. ALPHA BOX & DICE TAROT GRENACHE 2016, MCLAREN VALE ($25)
Fresh and vibrant with charming notes of ripe strawberries and orange rind. A refreshing Grenache. Serve slightly chilled. MITOLO THE JESTER GRENACHE 2016, MCLAREN VALE ($20)
Tasting this wine, I feel like it embodies a teenager becoming an adult. This is a cross between the old style and the new style. Full bodied with generous dark and red fruit. Simple but well made. A good barbecue wine. KILIKANOON THE PRODIGAL GRENACHE 2013, CLARE VALLEY ($35)
This wine will please those who prefer the older style of Grenache. Full bodied with deep, dark fruit supported by toast and vanilla. It will come alive when served with food like ribs or burgers.
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more often than not, new oak is not part of the equation. Just recently, the Ochota Barrels Green Room label 2018 from McLaren Vale — which reaches just below 12 percent ABV — quenched my thirst when it was poured in my glass slightly chilled. Winemaking techniques used to make the trendy new light reds vary. Cold maceration and whole-berry or whole-cluster fermentation, as well as stem inclusion and carbonic maceration, are all practised. Many have also dropped dramatically the fermentation temperature. Neutral oak, stainless steel, concrete and sometimes amphorae are the typical suspects for fermentation and maturation. Others like Taras Ochota are adept at extended skin contact. Of course, Grenache finds its way in traditional GSM blends (Grenache, Shiraz, Mataro) but generally, this fresh and crunchy red style is mostly observed in pure Grenache. Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale are the two most sought-after regions for this grape. Both are blessed with old vines, though the climate and geology vary from one to the other, leading to different wines. Even though the style has changed in Barossa, its hot, arid climate does tend to craft a slightly beefier version than McLaren Vale’s. The latter has a much more diverse landscape with the Gulf Saint Vincent and the Mount Lofty ranges having an important effect on the region. It is also noted to have one of the most complex geologies in the world. The map the region has created to explain the diversity of soils is nothing short of impressive. Each corner is being analyzed and some styles are being matched to specific areas. For example, the sandy soil of Blewitt Spring, located on the rolling hills of the Mount Lofty ranges, has established a high reputation in the last decades for a perfumed, silky Grenache. And this is just the beginning of the exploration of all of the nuances; I believe the future is bright. The ensured success of Grenache goes beyond creating a new trend. As the temperature on the planet keeps on rising, and climate change continues to be a major concern, viticulturists will have no choice but to adapt. Choosing cultivars that can succeed even in drought periods will be key. Water is already scarce and, when available, expensive to purchase. And the situation is not likely to improve. Melissa Brown, vineyard manager at Gemtree Wines in McLaren Vale, says that she has to buy water from the recycled water system managed by the Willunga Basin Water Company. Otherwise, her vines would not survive. This currently adds an extra cost of $4,500 a hectare. However, due to competition, she is not able to raise the price of her wine to justify that cost. This is another strong case for Grenache, which not only thrives in dry and arid conditions but can also survive with very little or no irrigation. Currently, Grenache make up only 1 percent of the Australian crush and export. As talented winemakers continue to craft lip-smacking Grenache and greater environmental consciousness rises, one can only hope that this grape of Spanish origin will not only be celebrated for its old vines, but also for its increase in vineyard planting. Plant Grenache, save the planet. Cheers to a bright future. ×
UNDER THE RADAR by Christine Sismondo
LAST YEAR, CASAMIGOS, THE TEQUILA COMPANY FAMOUSLY FOUNDED BY GEORGE CLOONEY AND FRIENDS, LAUNCHED ITS FIRST MEZCAL. Agave
purists will almost certainly scoff at this development, despite the fact that most anybody who gives this product a fair shot would have to agree it’s delicious — an expertly balanced blend of robust fruit, light smoke and herbal notes. Some might go so far as to take this as the final sign that mezcal has fully jumped the shark and gone mainstream. They might even suggest that it’s time to move on to raicilla, another white spirit from Mexico that’s been tapped as the next big thing in agave. Never heard of it? Don’t worry. It’s not you, it’s raicilla, an under-the-radar spirit made in the state of Jalisco from cooked, fermented and distilled agave hearts. That’s pretty much the same way tequila and mezcal are produced, albeit with different varietals and production methods according to regional denomination rules. Unless you’ve been to Puerto Vallarta, where it’s common for shopkeepers to offer customers a shot of raicilla to seal a deal, it remains a pretty obscure product. It appears, occasionally, in the coolest agave-centric cocktail bars in cities like
Los Angeles, Mexico City and London, England, but, aside from that, it’s typically a 100-mile drink. For now. As the never-ending quest to find the most “authentic” liquid from Mexico makes its way through various agave-producing regions, it seems likely that funky-tasting raicilla will soon be dubbed the “new mezcal,” which, if you recall, was the “new tequila” not so very long ago. It’s the agave circle of life. “Right now, it’s huge — huge,” says Kevin Simpson, a former Torontonian-turned-art-dealer at Galeria Colektica in Puerto Vallarta. “Tequila has become so much more of a manufactured product, raicilla has a smoky, homemade flavour. It’s sort of like artisan beer, so it’s becoming much more popular with people who like to taste things that are handmade, in small production, on family farms.” Simpson says he still buys his raicilla from moonshiners who operate in the backwoods — in unlabelled and untaxed bottles that he keeps under the counter in his gallery to share with special clients. That moonshine, though, still represents a quality revolution compared with the old days, when he used to buy it from a guy at the side of the road who sold it in an old plastic water bottle. “It has kind MAY/JUNE 2019 23
of lost a bit of that Wild West feel,” he laments, “but the product is better now. You can drink it. You can sip it.” Indeed, you can. It’s offered as a digestif in Puerto Vallarta’s best restaurants these days and the leading artisanal brand, La Venenosa, has three distinct and highly sippable expressions — a Costa (coast), Sur (South) and Sierra (highlands) — and two of the three picked up medals at the 2018 Berlin Craft Spirits Festival. The brand’s founder, Esteban Morales Garibi, is trying to establish these expressions as regional differentiations and, no question, his expressions have markedly different flavour profiles. Sur is earthy and pungent, Costa is smoky and vegetal, and Sierra is bright and fruity. Don’t expect these micro-climate classifications to hold across the board for every raicilla, though, since the use of a large range of varietals (often wild) and unbelievably rustic production methods (which often make use of either wood or clay in the distillation process) is akin to an entire deck of wild cards being thrown at you. That variety is part of the appeal, of course. Variety is what drove artisanal mezcal, which was first successfully exported by Ron Cooper, an American artist
24 MAY/JUNE 2019
who curated different liquids from different towns around Oaxaca and patiently explained his Del Maguey Single Village expression series to Canadians and Americans for, oh, about 15 years, until, one day, it just seemed to catch on. And that’s when everything went crazy. SUDDENLY, EVERY BARTENDER WAS TREKKING TO OAXACA AND COMING BACK WITH THE OPINION THAT, SAVE FOR A FEW BOUTIQUE TEQUILA BRANDS, MEZCAL WAS THE TRUE TASTE OF MEXICO — AND ITS TERROIR. Everyone from Toby Keith to Per-
nod Ricard wanted to own a brand, and cocktail bar owners, frustrated by a lack of availability, actually flew to Oaxaca and sourced their own custom-bottled expressions. A lot of people started wondering how, back in the “old days,” they could ever have suffered through drinking that “terroir-less” tequila. Except for one thing. A lot of that tequila was actually pretty delicious. Once we learned to walk past the “gold” abominations (often agave diluted with sugarcane spirit and added colour) and choose, instead, the well-crafted, pure agave expressions that started to appear
in Canada in the early 2000s, we discovered a sophisticated, clean, crispy and citrussy spirit with, dare I say, plenty of terroir characteristics. If the idea of terroir in spirits makes any sense in the first place, all premium agave spirits — tequila, mezcal and raicilla — should qualify as terroir spirits, since, even the most diplomatic tequilas could never have been mistaken for a neutral grain spirit. Tequila isn’t subjected to multiple passes through a 32-plate column still and, what’s more, the better producers keep it small, deliberately. At Patrón, for example, as the production increases, instead of buying larger equipment, they clone the fermentation and distillation systems, ordering new pine fermenters and alembic stills — all the exact same size. Instead of scaling up, they replicate the process over and over again, building the distillery outwards. Hardly the most economically efficient approach. But, what’s interesting about Patrón is that, alongside this colony of micro-distillery-sized equipment laid out in rows, ostensibly to keep the flavour profile the same forever, are a plethora of new expressions, all of which seem to be coming out in response to the terroir challenge
posed by mezcal and raicilla. Last year, the company launched a “Smoky” Patrón tequila and, a few years before that, a premium “Roca” line, liquid made entirely from the pre-industrial, traditional tahona process associated with mezcal — where the use of a two-tonne volcanic stone leads to a pulpier mash for fermentation. Patrón always had some tahona liquid, but the Silver is a blend of traditional and modern, roller-mill-processed spirit. And, sort of like the way a guacamole made in a molcajete is tangibly better tasting (even if it’s hard to pin down what tastes better about it), the Roca expressions have a discernibly more vibrant and robust flavour profile. Patrón isn’t the only producer re-inventing itself. Moët Hennessy recently acquired a tequila hacienda and started making Volcán De Mi Tierra tequila, launching with two styles — a “Cristallino” and a tahona-heavy “terroir” blanco. Volcán is a leader in the Cristallino micro-category, a new style of tequila that sees it aged in oak (ex-Glenmorangie casks, in the case of Volcán), then filtered so that all but a trace of the colour and flavour imparted by the wood is removed. Unlike your average añejo, which generally tastes like the caramel and vanilla it soaked up from the wood, this is an aged tequila with a little more density and depth of character, but without the confectionary flavours that get in the way of the sweet, earthy and distinct agave characteristics. Not to mention the terroir, be it the red soil of the highlands or the brown, volcanic soil of the lowlands. Volcán, incidentally, is a blend of both, whereas Patrón is strictly from los Altos (“the highlands”). “I want to be able to taste the floral and herbal notes in a spirit, which is why we filter,” says Adriana Baca, who was the project manager and driving force behind Moët Hennessy acquiring a hacienda and getting it set up to make Volcán tequila. “It’s also why I have some problems with mezcal. The first problem is that not every mezcal is a great quality. But more than that, I just find that, with too many mezcals, all I can taste is smoke.” It’s a fair point. One that applies to some raicilla as well, thanks to the use of wood-fired roasting at many mezcal and raicilla operations. It can be hard
to appreciate the fruit, herbs or cooked fruit through intense smoke — just as it would be with a lot of oak. And hey, smoky spirits are delicious, as is butterscotch. But can they really be considered terroir-driven at that point? This battle over terroir is where we find ourselves in the constantly evolving, wildly dynamic world of agave spirits. In my view, no one category owns it. Instead, like low-intervention wine, it’s about production differences, which we now see playing a major role. OGs like Patrón are playing with wood-fired roasting; mezcals are starting to edit the smoke; raicillas are getting more refined and new boutique tequilas are even inventing new categories, like Cristallino. The changes aren’t coming from the top down, it’s a maze of influences that would be a nightmare to turn into a flow chart. Since he’s uniquely qualified to know, I asked Francisco Alcaraz, Patrón’s master distiller, about the changes in the industry. Not only did Alcaraz develop Patrón’s tequila in 1989, he worked as an industry inspector in the late 1960s, meaning that he has had a bird’s-eye view for half a century. “Let me tell you that I consider that there is the tequila industry before Patrón and another industry after Patrón,” says Alcaraz. “We have influenced the industry in many respects. We have improved the tequila industry. “I started Patrón because Martin [Crowley] phoned me and asked, ‘Can you produce the best tequila in the world for me?’ and I said, ‘No, I cannot say that. I cannot say it will be the best in the world. But I can promise you I’ll make the best tequila I can produce.’ He said, ‘Okay that’s enough for me.’” As braggy as it all may sound, we can’t deny Patrón shaped the industry. But if we’ve learned anything, it’s that it’s also an oversimplification. The industry changes every time anyone — be it Esteban Garibi, Ron Cooper, Francisco Alcaraz, Adriana Baca or, God help us, George Clooney — has a new vision for how the spirit can best express the terroir and makes (or sources) a product that is their own personal best. These new milestones push everyone to try new things, making the industry more dynamic and inventive. Right now is possibly the most interesting time, in the history of the spirit, to be drinking agave. ×
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PLANT
POWER
If you have chosen a vegan (or even vegetarian) lifestyle, then you are very familiar with plant-based proteins. We’ve all heard about the high protein value of tofu, quinoa, tempeh and edamame. But what about spirulina, hemp seed or even chickpeas for that matter. They can replace any meal with their super-charged proteins.
26 MAY/JUNE 2019
LENTILS AND CHICKPEA BURGERS
This two powerhouse pulses pack between 15 to 18 grams per cooked cup. Put them together and you get a wonderful flavour punch.
1 1/2 1/2 1 1/4 1 1/4 1/4 to 1/2 2 1 1 2 1/4 1/4 2
cups chickpeas (cooked/or from can) cup lentils cup water cup roasted red bell pepper tbsp spice blend tsp cumin seeds tsp salt tsp nutritional yeast tsp oil tsp lemon juice cloves garlic, minced cup packed cilantro, chopped cup red onion, finely chopped tbsp chickpea flour (or rice flour)
1. Preheat oven to 400˚C. 2. Spice blend: Mix 1 tbsp cayenne pepper, 1 tsp garlic granules, 1/2 tsp onion powder, 2 tsp cumin powder, 1 tsp smoked paprika, 1/2 tsp oregano, 1 tsp coriander powder, 1/4 tsp black pepper. Store in an airtight container. 3. Wash the lentils. Add to a pan with a cup of water and cook over medium heat. Bring the lentils to a boil, cover and cook for 8 minutes or until they are almost tender. Let cool for a few minutes, then drain the excess water and add to a food processor. 4. Drain and wash the chickpeas and add to processor. Add the roasted red pepper, salt, spice blend, cumin seeds, lemon juice, nutritional yeast and oil, and pulse to get a coarse pasty mixture. 5. Transfer mixture to a bowl. Taste and adjust salt and spice. Mix in the garlic, cilantro and onion. 6. Add chickpea flour if the mixture is too wet. Shape into patties. Brush oil on top and bake for 20 minutes. You can also pan fry the patties in a greased pan over medium high heat for 3 to 4 minutes each side. 7. Top with vegan sour cream or ranch, lettuce, tomatoes, cilantro, chimichurri or any other of your favourite accoutrements. MATCH: Burgers and beer are an automatic. Try the Daura Damm from Spain.
HEMP HEARTS
Cannibis is all over the news right now, but when it comes to hemp’s protein punch, it isn’t a fad. We’re talking about 10 grams of complete protein per 30 grams of seed and a good source of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. That’s huge. And it’s being produced right here in Canada, so that’s a huge bonus. You can sprinkle it on a salad or even your yoghurt in the morning just before you run a marathon — or even stroll to the office.
× VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/FOOD/ FOR MORE PLANT BASED RECIPES
SPROUTED GRAINS
You usually see this in bread format (it’s in most grocery freezers). Sometimes refered to as Ezekiel bread, 2 slices contains 8 grams of protein. The simple act of sprouting the grain increases the amino acids and other nutritional elements — including fiber, folate, vitamin C and E. Top with your favourite nut butter (which on its own packs 5 grams of protein) and you have a rich and flavourful meal.
SPIRULINA CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES
You can always spot this in a recipe because the spirulina imparts a deep bluish-green colour. But don’t the plastacine colour fool you. Two tablespoons of this algae provides you with 8 grams of complete protein. It also contains decent amounts of magnesium, riboflavin, manganese, potassium as well as small amounts of most of the other nutrients your body needs, including essential fatty acids. It does have a particular flavour, so you may have to mask it with more intense note. Think dark fruits and berries — or in this case a good amount of chocolate. FILLING
2 1 1/2 1
cups cashews, soaked tbsp spirulina cup rice malt syrup tsp vanilla extract
CHOCOLATE COATING
1 cup raw cacao butter 1 cup raw cacao powder 1/2 cup rice malt syrup
1. For the filling: Place soaked cashews into a blender with the rice malt syrup, vanilla extract and spirulina. Transfer to the fridge for about 1 hour to harden. Scoop out teaspoons of the creme mixture and roll into balls, place them on a tray lined with a sheet of parchment paper. 2. For the chocolate coating: Melt the cacao butter over a bain-marie and then whisk in the cacao powder and rice malt syrup until well combined. Take the balls of spirulina creme and drop them one at a time into the chocolate mixture and roll around gently to coat. 3. Place coated balls on the lined tray and continue until all truffles are covered. 4. Move to the fridge for 30 to 45 minutes until chocolate has set, then take out to enjoy.
WILD RICE
By simply substituting your plain white rice with any of the wild rice varieties, you can almost double your protein intake. By not stripping the rice of its bran, the fiber is kept as well as plenty of vitamins and minerals — including manganese, magnesium, copper, phosphorus and B vitamins. Make sure to soak the rice before to help with the cooking. ×
MAY/JUNE 2019 27
BUYING GUIDE
All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to find the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new. Afterall, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and will likely vary from province to province. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, so check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Michelle Bouffard, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Tim Pawsey, Michaela Morris and Jonathan Smithe. *Available through private import and online wine clubs
SPARKLING 8TH GENERATION CONFIDENCE FRIZZANTE 2017, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($20)
Charmat style blend using CO2 retained from fermentation of 90% Pinot Noir with 10% Pinot Gris, from various sites. Aromas of fresh red berry fruits, lively bubbles and creamy notes with strawberry and cherries on a gently creamy palate. Crisp and refreshing. (TP) BLUE GROUSE SPARKLING PAULA 2014, VANCOUVER ISLAND, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($25)
Estate grown Müller-Thurgau (42.5%) and Ortega (42.5%) blended with Okanagan Valley Pinot Auxerrois (10%) and Riesling (5%). Traditional method with no dosage. Hints of brioche and citrus with crisp apple and citrus. Well textured with balanced acidity through a gently zesty end. (TP) SORELLE BRONCA VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE DOCG PARTICELLA 68, ITALY ($30)
From family farmed, steep sloping (45 degree) clay soils at 400 m that produce perennially fine DOCG quality wines. Brut nature with fine bubbles and persistent mousse. Floral notes and orchard fruits 28 MAY/JUNE 2019
up front, with crisp green apple, generous mouthfeel, crisp and clean with mineral hints in the lingering finish. (TP) SOMMARIVA CONEGLIANO VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE DOCG RIVE DI SAN MICHELE, ITALY ($30)
A fine stream of bubbles with firm, persistent mousse. Floral aromas followed by creamy notes, orchard fruits on the palate with mineral background, emphasized by acidity and freshness. Well balanced and good length. (TP)
BISOL CREDE CONEGLIANO VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE DOCG BRUT, ITALY ($30)
Pale straw in the glass with fine bubbles and enduring mousse. White flower aromas, a generous but focused palate of orchard and stone fruit, a hint of mineral with lingering zest and a crisp dry finish. (TP) RAVENTÓS I BLANC DE NIT ROSE METODE TRADICIONAL 2016, CONCA DEL, RIU ANOIA, SPAIN ($40)
Clean and pure with citrus, floral notes and cassis, soft red berry, elegant fine bubbles and a rich, layered, fresh finish. The addition of Monastrell to the traditional white grapes gives the wine its pink hue and fresh red fruit character. Enjoy with lamb carpaccio. (GB)
RIZZI ALTA LANGA PAS DOSE METODO CLASSICO 2013, PIEDMONT, ITALY ($55)
Elegant and well balanced with full flavours of apple, honey, spice, fresh herbs and brioche. Vibrant bubbles, a firm backbone while still incredibly welcoming with a long, persistent mouth-watering finish. Predominantly Chardonnay with about 15% Pinot Noir. (GB) CASTELLO DI NEIVE METODO CLASSICO BLANC DE NOIR 2013, PIEDMONT, ITALY ($60)
Expressive and creamy with cherry, citrus, currant and spice. Soft bubbles with a light grip and lengthy finish. 100% Pinot Noir. A versatile aperitif wine. (GB)
WHITE $20 AND UNDER
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA K1 SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017, ADELAIDE HILLS ($20)
Clear pale yellow. Robust nose of gooseberry, lime and passion fruit. Full-bodied, manages to be smooth on the palate but tart at the same time. Flavours of apple, lemon and grapefruit. Drink now. (RL)*
CANADA CHABERTON GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2017, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($17)
Hints of rose petal with a fresh and vibrant palate supported by good acidity. Tropical fruit and ginger hints through a lingering, off-dry finish. (TP)
SACRED HILL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018, MARLBOROUGH ($19)
A passion fruit and citrus bouquet with notes of sweet grass. Medium bodied and crisply dry with green plum and gooseberry flavours. Beautifully balanced and great length. (TA) PORTUGAL
FIELDING ESTATE BOTTLED RIESLING 2017, NIAGARA ($20)
A minerally, honeyed grapefruit nose; light-bodied, on the sweet side but elegant with flavours of honey, lime and grapefruit finishing crisply. (TA) CHILE CONO SUR BICICLETA VIOGNIER 2017 ($16)
Full nose of pears, lanolin, pineapple and orange with a hint of resin. Full-bodied, soft and low acidity. Almost sweet with peach and apricot flavours set off by a bit of green stem bitterness on a long finish. Chilean warmth suits this grape. Drink now. (RL)
ANSELMO MENDES MURO ANTIGOS LOUREIRO 2017, VINHO VERDE ($17)
Bursting flavours of lime peel, laurel leaves and white grapefruit with a hint of lavender. Tangy acidity with salty notes on the finish. This Loureiro becomes even more alive when enjoyed with steamed clams or grilled sea bream splashed with a touch of lemon and olive oil. For those who are fans of Thai or Vietnamese food, this wine will work like a charm. What an outstanding value! (MB)
Emphatic nose of shellac, grapefruit and gooseberry, with a bit of excess sulphur. On the palate, it shouts “Sauvignon Blanc!” but with an unusual accent: so pungent it is almost Retsina-like. High acidity and a flinty, alkali bitterness on the finish. Ready to drink now. (RL)* FRANCE
FRANCE CHÂTEAU PAS DU CERF 2018, CÔTES DE PROVENCE ($19)
Bursting aromas of pink grapefruit, rhubarb and orange peel with thirst-quenching acidity and a pleasant bitterness on the moderate finish. Dangerously easy to drink. Just as enjoyable on its own as an aperitif or with salmon tartare or bouillabaisse. Cheers to the 8th generation of women leading this domaine. (MB)
DOMAINE DE LA BRETONNIÈRE 2015, AOC MUSCADET DE SÈVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE ($14)
Clear pale gold. Nose of Granny Smith apple, pineapple and lime peel set off with a bit of tonic water or iodine bitterness. Light-bodied, tasting of lemon, pineapple, melon and grapefruit. Crisp acidity, but this wine is fruity, not sour. Excellent with shellfish or delicate white fish. Drink immediately. (RL)* NEW ZEALAND
Minerally, white peach and lemon zest nose. Medium-bodied, dry, round palate with peach and lemon flavours augmented by a floral note. Beautifully balanced and lingering. Delicious. Drink now though 2020. (TA) RED ROOSTER RARE BIRD SERIES GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($25)
Very pale straw in colour. Lightly minerally, lychee, cardamom nose with touch of ginger. Light- to medium-bodied, dry, grapefruit, lychee, tangerine and rose water flavours. Fine mouthfeel with a long, lingering finish. Drink now. (TA)
Lifted stone fruit and tropical notes, followed by forward peach and pear notes with a mineral streak and juicy acidity. A generous mouthfeel and rounded leesy texture from time in concrete eggs. (TP) SPEARHEAD CHARDONNAY 2017, EAST KELOWNA ($30)
Whole cluster pressed and aged 11 months in 40% new oak. Upfront aromas of tropical, stone fruit and vanilla. A creamy, buttery, peach and citrus palate, supported by good mouthfeel with firm oak elements through the finish. (TP)
ITALY FRANCE SAMMARCO CHARDONNAY 2016, IGP SALENTO ($14)
Nose of Key lime pie, but also accents of watermelon, apple and peach. Full-bodied and soft on the palate, tasting of sour lemon custard, but with an Italian grip. (RL)*
$20.01 TO $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
CÉCILE LEBRUN 2016, AC SANCERRE ($27)
Medium-intensity nose of gooseberry with ginger, pineapple and papaya. Full-bodied for a Sancerre, soft mouthfeel but still crisp. Tastes of greenish kiwi, melon, Mandarin orange. One of the best Sancerres I have had; combines bright acidity with rich fruit. Drinking well now and for another year. (RL)*
CANADA
VILLA MARIA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018, MARLBOROUGH ($18)
Bright straw in colour with a grassy, lightly floral nose of green plum and gooseberry; medium-bodied, crisply dry, green plum flavour with mouth-freshening acidity. (TA)
RED ROOSTER RARE BIRD SERIES VIOGNIER 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($25)
HAYWIRE SECREST MOUNTAIN CHARDONNAY 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($25)
RECOMMENDED
LABERINTO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, VALLE DEL MAULE ($19)
ed by Macintosh apple and pear notes. Well-balanced acidity and a lengthy, slightly creamy finish. (TP)
HUNGARY QUAILS GATE THE BENCH PINOT GRIS 2017, EAST KELOWNA ($24)
Aromas of orchard fruit precede a well textured and rounded palate, with extra weight from the time in oak, accentuat-
× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT WWW.QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/
OREMUS FURMINT MANDOLAS 2016, TOKAJ ($30)
Rich and round with a nice oily texture and notes of passion fruit, guava and MAY/JUNE 2019 29
BUYING GUIDE slight herbal aromas. The notes of vanilla from the oak are well integrated and add some complexity. Nice lingering finish with a mineral touch that leaves you wanting more. Delicious with roasted lemon chicken, coquilles St-Jacques or scallop risotto. What a gem. (MB) UNITED STATES RODNEY STRONG SONOMA COUNTY CHARDONNAY 2016, SONOMA ($23)
An earthy, barnyard bouquet of apple with a spicy oak note. It’s full-bodied, dry, with apple and toasty flavours accentuated by lemony acidity giving the wine a long, succulent finish. (TA)
cool side — otherwise the flavours can be overpowering. One of my favourite wines. Will improve to 2020, then age gracefully in a cold cellar for another 5 years. (RL)*
powerful, layered and complex, while still possessing finesse and gracefulness. 100% Timorasso. Pair with richer fish dishes, pork and even steak. (GB)
JADOT MORGEOT CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET PREMIER CRU 2010 ($69)
UNITED STATES
Clear old brass. Big nose of orange marmalade drizzled with caramel, but also an interesting accent of porcini mushrooms. Full-bodied, nearly viscous, tasting of a pie made from bruised apples, also pears, with a long almond-bitter finish. Drink now. (RL)*
ITALY CASTELLO DI NEIVE LANGHE ARNEIS 2018, PIEDMONT ($32)
Fresh with notes of peach and a juicy salinity. A nice aperitif wine. Also tasted the 1999, which has held up remarkably well with no sign of oxidation, and still showing freshness, savoury notes and good length. The winemaker believes that 2018 will age as well as the 1999. (GB)
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FRANCE MONTEZ LES GRANDES CHAILLÉES 2015, AC CONDRIEU ($46)
Clear medium gold. Powerful nose of pear, orange and butterscotch. Full-bodied, tasting of apricots with honey and crushed hazelnuts. Serve this on the 30 MAY/JUNE 2019
Opens with rich lemon citrus and subtle spice on the nose, expanding on the palate to citrus and green apple flavours richly rounded out with buttery, spicy and nutty overtones. Nutty butterscotch flavours linger on the finish. (SW)
ITALY GIULIA NEGRI LA TARTUFAIA LANGHE CHARDONNAY 2016, PIEDMONT ($50)
RECOMMENDED
COLUMBIA CREST GRAND ESTATES CHARDONNAY 2015, COLUMBIA VALLEY ($35)
As good as Giulia Negri’s Barolos are, her Chardonnay was an eye-opener. Almost stealthy in its approach with citrus and stone fruit flavours, great balance between richness and vibrancy, minerally and fresh, intense and finessed with a firm underlying structure and excellent length. A revelation. (GB) VIGNETI MASSA DERTHONA STERPI 2016, PIEDMONT ($100)
Mineral, elegant, linear and creamy, with rich fruit, spice, complexity and structure, fresh acidity, incredible length and mineral on the finish. 100% Timorasso, a grape variety that likely still exists today because of Walter Massa. Try with both seafood and meat crudo. (GB) VIGNETI MASSA DERTHONA COSTA DEL VENTO 2016, PIEDMONT ($100)
Rich and honeyed, with the opulence of an Alsatian Riesling but with focused acidity, peach and nectarine fruit. Fresh herbs, loads of mineral and spice, long,
RECOMMENDED ITALY FORADORI MANZONI BIANCO FONTANASANTA 2017, TRENTINO ($40)
A cross between Riesling and Pinot Bianco created by Dr Manzoni, Manzoni Bianco is likely the most popular and successful of the Manzoni crossings. Delicately aromatic with fresh zippy acidity, spice, green apple, stone fruit, focused and linear. Pair with pork, shellfish and rich cheeses. (GB) CHÂTEAU LATOUR-MARTILLAC 2014, PESSAC-LÉOGNAN ($52)
70% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Semillon. Crisp with juicy notes of white peaches, passion fruit and pink grapefruit with discreet notes of well-integrated vanilla coming from new French oak. You could probably put this wine down for a few years but it’s so enjoyable to drink now while the fruit is vibrant and generous. Serve with simply prepared grilled white fish or fresh oysters. (MB)
ROSÉ CASA NUEVA ROSÉ 2017, CHILE ($14)
Medium-intensity nose of strawberry, raspberry and rhubarb. Light-bodied, delicate and crisp, tasting of cranberries, Mandarin orange and lime. Would lend a lot of class to a ham sandwich enjoyed on the deck. Drink now. (RL)* FOLONARI PINOT GRIGIO 2017, IGT PROVINCIA DI PAVIA, ITALY ($17)
An “orange” wine, i.e. a rosé made from pink coloured grapes, in this case well-ripened Pinot Grigio. Clear, medium-deep pinkish peach colour. Medium nose of strawberry, orange and a sprinkling of brown sugar. Full-bodied for a rosé, fruity and luscious with sweetish strawberry and melon flavours, and a surprisingly long finish. Drink now. (RL) HAYWIRE GAMAY NOIR ROSÉ 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($23)
Medium salmon in the glass, vibrant red fruit aromas followed by a vinous and luscious palate of strawberry, melon and pink grapefruit through a fresh and lingering finish. (TP)
BLACK HILLS ESTATE ROSÉ 2017, SOUTHERN OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($25)
100% Pinot Noir. Deep pink in colour with a minerally, raspberry nose. Medium-bodied, dry, elegant, lovely mouthfeel with strawberry and orange flavours carried on a zesty acidity. (TA)
RED
$20 AND UNDER
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA JIP JIP ROCKS SHIRAZ 2017, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($17)
With a concentrated, spicy, creamy, sandalwood nose of blackberries with herbal notes. Medium-bodied, dry and fruity with lively acidity and a firm tannic finish. Drinking well now. (TA) FRANCE CHÂTEAU VIGNELAURE LA SOURCE 2012, AC COTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCE ($18)
Clear very deep garnet. Aroma of maraschino cherry, milk chocolate and a bit of coconut (quite like a Cherry Blossom chocolate bar — do they still make those?). High acidity and still-prominent tannins, but this is mature, full-bodied and robust, tasting of raisins and cherries. Good value. Drink now. (RL)* ITALY
ALCEO PRIMITIVO 2016, IGP SALENTO ($15)
Nose starts as warm cherry pie, then morphs to dates and figs. On the palate, it starts off with blackberries, lots of Italian acidity and soft tannins, then ripens in the glass to black cherry. Low alcohol (relative to Californian Zins) makes this a good wine for spicy pizzas. (RL)*
OKANAGAN CRUSH PAD FREE FORM VIN GRIS 2017, OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($30)
Upfront floral, tropical and quince before a generously textured and structured palate, wrapped in juicy acidity with a hint of minerality through a fresh and vibrant close. Vegan friendly. (TP) DOMAINE TEMPIER BANDOL ROSÉ 2017, FRANCE ($40)
Complex aromas of fennel, sour cherries, blood orange and a hint of melon. Tempier has a reputation for making Rosés that improve with age. I highly recommend buying a few bottles and waiting 2 to 5 years before you open them. They transform into complex wines that are jewels to pair with food. (MB)
anced palate of damson, red current and cassis notes with approachable and well-integrated tannins, vanilla and peppery notes through a lengthy end. (TP)
SOUTH AFRICA THE RACONTEUR SYRAH 2017, SWARTLAND ($15)
Offers a savoury-herbal nose of black fruits. It’s full-bodied, dry, juicy and fruity with the flavour of black plums carried on lively acidity. (TA)
$20.01 TO $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA FORT BERENS MERITAGE 2016, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($26)
Allow time to open in the glass for aromas of red and black fruit to precede a well-bal-
FORT BERENS CABERNET FRANC 2016, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($26)
Lifted red and black berry notes with some herbal notes precede a medium- to full-bodied palate of raspberry and cassis notes, with a savoury edge contrasting purity of fruit and well-balanced tannins. (TP) MCWATTERS COLLECTION MERITAGE 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($30)
Vibrant aromas of red and black berries with spice notes, followed by a luscious, mouth-filling entry of plush damson, vanilla, blackberry and cassis flavours with firm tannins and excellent structure, plus some herb and spice notes through a solid close. Excellent value. (TP) FRANCE JOSEPH DROUHIN BEAUJOLAIS NOUVEAU 2018 ($23)
Tasted in February, when no longer “Nouveau.” Medium strength nose, like a banana coated in red candy-apple coating, also hints of sugary cake icing. Light-bodied with mouth-watering bright acidity, tasting of mashed berries, especially raspberries. Serve cool, drink immediately. (RL)* ITALY G.D. VAJRA DOLCETTO D’ALBA 2017, PIEDMONT ($25)
Vibrant crunchy red plum with mouth-watering acidity and moderate chalky tannins with a savoury finish. A bottle that could easily become my daily house wine. A great partner for pizza margherita or my favourite, pasta all’Amatriciana. (MB)
RECOMMENDED FRANCE DOMAINE LOUIS CHEZE RO-RÉE SAINT-JOSEPH 2016 ($30)
Great depth of flavours with complex notes of black pepper, black plum, smoked meat and seductive violet aromas balanced by fresh acidity. Firm MAY/JUNE 2019 31
BUYING GUIDE yet fine tannins with a persistent finish. Charming now, especially when served with game meat. However, has the structure to keep on improving over the next 6 to 8 years. (MB) DOMAINE YANNICK AMIRAULT LE GRAND CLOS BOURGUEIL 2015 ($34)
A beautiful wine made from a great producer in a ripe vintage. Generous notes of red plum and black cherries underlined by notes of violet and pencil shavings. Savoury and crunchy with an acidity that makes you crave some food. A natural with pâté, charcuterie, rabbit or steak tartare. Well done! (MB) CHÂTEAU GRUAUD LAROSE 1999, AC SAINT-JULIEN ($50)
Cork partly decomposed on opening. Deep mahogany colour, lots of sediment. Nose of slightly burnt cherry pie served with coffee and tea, morphing to raisins and dates but still retaining the classic Gruaud Larose green stemminess. On the palate, one tastes sour cherries and cassis, developing to prunes with some time. Tannins and acidity still medium but the fruit is thinning. Should have drank this 2 to 3 years ago. (RL)*
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA CATENA ZAPATA ALTA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, MENDOZA ($49)
Deep ruby-purple in colour with a cedary, plum and blackcurrant bouquet lifted with notes of vanilla oak. Medium-bodied, dry, beautifully balanced and firmly structured, with a lovely floral note on the end taste. (TA) 32 MAY/JUNE 2019
CANADA RUST WINE SV MERLOT 2016, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($35)
Lifted black fruit and spicy notes precede a well-structured palate with generous mouthfeel and well-integrated tannins, blackberry, raspberry and vanilla notes with a firm mineral streak through the lengthy close. (TP) DOMAINE QUEYLUS RÉSERVE DU DOMAINE CABERNET FRANC 2016, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($38)
Savoury red fruits, blackcurrants, anise, graphite, iron and integrated herbs and spices. It’s rich, layered and textured on the palate with a range of red fruits, blackcurrants, herbs, spice, minerals and length through a clean and polished finish. (RV) BLACK HILLS PINOT NOIR 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($40)
Lifted red berries and earthy notes followed by a plush, medium-bodied palate with strawberry and cherry notes, wrapped in approachable tannins with a touch of savoury before the close. (TP) BLACK HILLS ADDENDUM 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($40)
Intense red and black fruit aromas before a fruit-forward palate of mulberry and raspberry notes, supported by good mouthfeel and acidity with well-structured, firm tannins, plus spice and peppery notes to close. (TP) FRANCE DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE LE TÉLÉGRAMME 2016, CHÂTEAUNEUFDU-PAPE ($55)
80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 6% Mour-
vèdre and 4% Cinsault. Grenache can easily become a caricature of itself but that’s definitely not the case with this wine! Although rich with abundant notes of wild strawberries and raspberries, the wine displays finesse and elegance. Supple tannins and the alcohol of 14.5% is well integrated with the concentration of flavours. Lovely notes of garrigues on the lingering finish. A great match with chicken fricassee served with morel mushrooms. (MB) ITALY ALARIO CLAUDIO DOLCETTO DI DIANO D’ALBA SORI COSTA FIORE 2017, PIEDMONT ($36)
Vinous, juicy and balanced with fresh acidity, integrated elegant tannins and a delicious mouth-watering quality that encourages you to take each subsequent taste. Great with typical Piedmontese dishes such as carne cruda and vitello tonnato, but would also match with roast duck breast and grilled sausages. (GB) FRATELLI ALESSANDRIA VERDUNO PELAVERGA 2017, PIEDMONT ($36)
Fresh and pretty aromas of strawberry and peppercorns with herbal notes and a touch of earthiness, juicy and fresh as it glides across the palate with a light firmness. Serve with a slight chill to make it even more quaffable. (GB) MONTE DEL FRA LENA DI MEZZO 2015 ($45)
From 60-year-old vines at higher elevation on a terraced site near Lake Garda. Vibrant, lifted red and black fruit precede a palate defined by cherry, raspberry and anise supported by firm tannins and spice notes through a lingering finish. (TP)
STEFANO ACCORDINI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG CLASSICO ACINATICO 2015 ($50)
From one of the highest sites in Valpolicella, at 550 m. Lifted aromas of dark berry fruit with some earthy hints. Plush and rounded, well structured with juicy acidity, approachable well-integrated tannins and a mineral background to close. (TP) BRUNO GIACOSA NEBBIOLO D’ALBA VALMAGGIORE 2014, PIEDMONT ($55)
A wine that haunts the soul. Complex with an amazing bouquet made of aromas of tar, dry roses, orange peel, chocolate and red cherries. Firm tannins with bright acidity and a long, lingering finish. While this wine is enjoyable now, if decanted ahead and paired with food, it will benefit from further aging. If you can resist, put away in your cellar for 8 to 10 years. (MB) MASSOLINO BAROLO RISERVA VIGNA RIONDA 1996, PIEDMONT ($150)
Lovely perfume, still showing lots of freshness, a firm backbone, elegant and layered with all components well integrated, fresh acidity and great length. Drinking beautifully now, but still has plenty of life. Very enjoyable. (GB) SPAIN BODEGAS NAVAJAS CRIANZA 2015, RIOJA ($18)
A versatile red wine for meat dishes. This Tempranillo and Mazuela blend is deep ruby in colour with a spicy nose of sandalwood, strawberry and cherry compote and evident oak notes. It’s medium-bodied, dry, with cherry and red plum flavours, balancing acidity and a note of cloves on the finish. It’s got admirable length on the finish. (TA)
BEFORE, DURING & AFTER DINNER TIO PEPE PALOMINO FINO SHERRY, SPAIN ($20)
Aromas of yeast, smoked ham and bruised apples, also caramelized sugar, but the nose remains dignified and austere. Light-bodied with tangy acidity over umami and apple flavours, leading to a long, slightly bitter finish. Perfect with ham of all sorts. Sherry is so sadly neglected. Drink immediately, and finish the bottle rather than trying to store the remains. (RL) FEUERHEERD’S LBV PORT 2013, DOURO VALLEY, PORTUGAL ($22)
A foot-trodden Port of distinction! Opaque purple in colour with a slightly medicinal, blackberry nose with oak spice; full-bodied, sweet and intense, grapey, blackberry flavour, firmly structured. Would reward with 3 to 4 years cellaring to resolve the tannins. (TA) PELLER ESTATES PRIVATE RESERVE VIDAL ICEWINE 2017, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($24/200 ML)
Old gold in colour, it has a nose of mangoes and honey. It’s medium to full-bodied, rich and unctuous on the palate with honeyed tropical fruit flavours well-balanced with fresh, lemony acidity. (TA) INNISKILLIN RIESLING ICEWINE 2017, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($80/375 ML)
Golden colour; spicy, honeyed mango nose with notes of dried apricot. Medium-bodied, ripe mango, honey and lemon flavours; lovely mouthfeel and beautifully balanced with a long satisfying finish. (TA) INNISKILLIN SPARKLING VIDAL ICEWINE 2017, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($80/375 ML)
RECOMMENDED ITALY CASTELLO DI NEIVE ALBAROSSA 2016, PIEDMONT ($46)
Big and bold with bright red and black fruit, fresh herbs, edgy with grippy, fruit-coated tannins and a big fruity finish. Perfect with grilled wild game such as bison and elk. (GB)
A spicy, vanilla, caramel and apple nose; light-bodied, creamy palate of honey, peaches and apple with a light effervescence. Well-balanced with refreshing acidity and good length. (TA)
INNISKILLIN CABERNET SAUVIGNON ICEWINE 2017, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($125/375 ML)
Honeyed strawberry with sweet rhubarb on the nose. Medium-bodied, sweet strawber-
ry puree flavour with notes of orange peel and balancing acidity. Harmonious with a great mouthfeel and long finish. (TA) BLOOD BROTHERS BREWING PARADISE LOST GUAVA, TORONTO, ($8/500 ML)
A hazy pale gold ale, there’s bright guava on the nose, and the fruitiness really punches through on the palate, along with hints of passion fruit and bright lemony acidity. The finish is dry, crisp and tart. Verdict: very refreshing and fruit-forward, paradise found! (TL) MERIT BREWING TOMORROWS EARL GREY TRIPEL, ONTARIO ($8/500 ML)
Pours a hazy, gold with a frothy white head. Brewed with Cream Earl Grey tea from Hamilton’s Monarch Tea Company, the ale mixes peppery notes with a floral bouquet of bergamot and vanilla with a warming alcohol note signaling its 9.6% ABV. This high alcohol, champagne-like tipple begs to be paired with orange or citrus-seasoned barbequed chicken. (CL) LAKE OF THE WOODS FORGOTTEN BLUEBERRY ALE, ONTARIO ($4/473 ML)
A malt-forward ale made with locally picked blueberries, this beer is crafted in Kenora, the heart of Northern Ontario’s cottage country. It’s pale violet and hazy with aromas of whole wheat bread dough, and hints of carnations, vanilla, and crushed blueberries. While there’s a touch of granny smith apple-esque acidity on the sip, the flavour is dominated by wholegrain toasted bread. The berries are well-integrated and subtle in this grainy, medium-bodied brew. (TL) BATCH BREWING CO. ISLAND STYLE COCONUT IPA, SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA ($10/440 ML)
Nestled in the heart of Sydney’s Inner West, one of the most dense brewing regions in the country, Batch Brewing Co. was started in 2013 by two American expats who shared a love of homebrewing. Island Style is a golden and cloudy ale spiced with Australian Cascade and Mosaic hops and fermented with raw coconut. The luscious coconut flavours are amped up by the addition of lactose and wheat, giving the beer a creamy milkshake-like body. Aromas of canned pineapple and jackfruit complement the rich, coconut oil notes. The finish is long, with a lingering, fruity bitterness that sticks around. (TL) MAY/JUNE 2019 33
AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER
COUPE D’ÉTAT THE FIRST WINE BOOK I EVER PURCHASED, BACK IN THE 1960S, WAS FROM A SECOND-HAND SHOP. It was a seminal
work that deserves a place in every wine lover’s library: George Saintsbury’s Notes on a Cellar-Book. Written in 1920 by this scholarly English journalist who spent 20 years as Professor of Rhetoric and English Literature at the University of Edinburgh, it’s a classic of wine connoisseurship. When I moved from a house into a condo in 2008, I donated some 600 volumes on wine to wine schools but I kept this one and several others from which I could not bear to be parted. (Most wine books don’t get better with age but Notes on a Cellar-Book speaks eloquently to an era when wine lovers laid down cellars and waited patiently for their Clarets and Burgundies to mature while they sipped on old Madeira, Vintage Port and Sherry.) The second wine book I bought — and I still have it — is Patrick Forbes’ Champagne: The wine, the land and the people, still the best book on the subject even though it was published in 1967 and there have been dozens of books devoted to the subject since then. Which brings me to the ongoing debate as to what to serve the stuff in. The French have to take some blame for legitimizing the coupe as the emoji for Champagne, because the cover of the first edition of Forbes’ book bears a colour photo of a piece of Sèvres porcelain, moulded, legend has it, from Marie-Antoinette’s left breast. As charming as that may be, Champagne tastes better out of clear glass than it does out of a china bra. While the Marie Antoinette story might be a myth, it did inspire two 21st century beauties to lend their bodies for the purpose of creating a Champagne bowl. In 2008, the house of Dom Pérignon engaged Karl Lagerfeld to create a drinking vessel that was modelled on the German super-model Claudia Schiffer’s chest. And not to be outdone, British top-model 34 MAY/JUNE 2019
Kate Moss memorialized her left breast as a coupe for London’s 34 Restaurant. In Arthur Koestler’s 1940 novel Darkness at Noon, his hero Rubashov is imprisoned in a Russian jail for anti-Soviet activity. A prisoner in an adjoining cell establishes contact with him by tapping on the metal pipes. He is a White Russia officer who has been locked away for many years and is eager to know about the last woman Rubashov made love to. Rubashov, who had been more interested in the Revolution than women, makes up a fantasy for him. At one point he says that her breasts would have fit into Champagne glasses. Koestler, I suspect, had in mind the saucer-shaped glass and not today’s more fashionable receptacle for Champagne, the elongated flute. But the Champagne producers, usually a very conservative lot, have turned their noses up at both the coupe and the flute in favour of a shape quite similar to a white wine glass (the better to savour the bouquet, they say). However, some sparkling wine enthusiasts with retro tendencies are scouring thrift shops in search of those mini bird baths that are possibly the worst glasses from which to consume Champagne. (You can’t enjoy the sight of the ascending bubbles; the wine warms up too quickly because of the shallow design and owing to the large circumference, you tend to take in too much wine, creating — horror of horrors — backwash.) The flute, on the other hand, forces your mouth into the shape of a kiss, narrowly channelling the wine down the centre of the palate, avoiding the edges of the tongue where the taste buds experience acidity. Come to think of it, I should re-read Notes on a Cellar-Book and see what George Saintsbury, the master, has to say on the subject of Champagne glasses. × ILLUSTRATION: ROBB MIRSKY, WWW.ROBBMIRSKY.COM
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