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94 POINTS Beppi Crosariol, Globe & Mail
90 POINTS Rick VanSickle, WinesInNiagra.com
92 POINTS
Tim Pawsey, Quench Magazine & HiredBelly.com
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JULY/AUGUST 2019 16 ECONOMICS
MICHAEL APSTEIN
E
Burgundy might be a bit too pricey, but there are still some inexpensive gems. Here’s where you can find them.
NCH 25
TIME TO CONNECT!
JOANNE WILL
Why are we so disconnected from the local farmers who grow our food? It’s time to remedy that.
COLUMNS 6 | LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO Solving the mystery of ice in your cocktails.
8 | MUST TRY ERIKA MANTOVAN Organizing Vermouth di Torino is great for everyone.
9 | LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC
10 | MAKING NEW HOMES TREVE RING Some Old World varietals are taking root in the New World.
13 | PURE GOLD W. BLAKE GRAY The wineries of El Dorado are a gold mine of fresh finds.
20 | ELEVATING THE EXPERIENCE GURVINDER BHATIA
When is Budweiser not Budweiser?
London, England has become the epicentre of bringing food and wine together.
27 | BUYING GUIDE
22 | RESTITUTION
The best wine, beer and spirits from around the world, critiqued by our expert tasting panel.
TIM PAWSEY
34 | AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER Can you recall your first sip of wine? I can.
After decades of being used, abused and generally misunderstood, is BC Riesling finally getting the respect it deserves?
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JULY/AUGUST 2019 3
LETTER FROM THE WINE EDITOR
WWW.QUENCH.ME EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Aldo Parise editor@quench.me WINE EDITOR
Gurvinder Bhatia gbhatia@quench.me MANAGING EDITOR
Lisa Hoekstra lhoekstra@quench.me CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
Tod Stewart tstewart@quench.me COLUMNISTS
Tony Aspler, Christine Sismondo, Robin LeBlanc, Erika Mantovan CONTRIBUTORS
Treve Ring, W. Blake Gray, Michael Apstein, Tim Pawsey, Joanne Will
WINE AND FOOD CAN BE SOURCES OF INCREDIBLE PLEASURE. THEY BOTH TRANSLATE PEOPLE, PLACE, CULTURE AND HISTORY, WHILE MAKING WONDERFUL PARTNERS WITH THEIR ABILITY TO MAKE EACH OTHER BETTER. There are certain classic pairings (e.g., French fries or caviar
with Champagne, oysters with Muscadet) that can induce mouth-gasms, but problems arise when people agonize over achieving a “perfect” pairing and fret over making a mistake. The first rule of wine and food pairing is to throw out the rules. Most were established decades ago by stodgy old white dudes accustomed to a diet of meat and potatoes, and who either ignored or were oblivious to the existence of any sort of ethnic cuisine. The “rules” were also established at a time when there wasn’t the vast variety and diversity of grape varieties and styles so readily available. Without question, the overall quality of wine currently being produced around the world is at an all-time high. Those who made the rules never considered lamb kebabs or beef rendang or fish moilee or manakeesh or chana masala or Peking duck or eating family style with numerous dishes simultaneously on the table (as is the norm in so many cultures). When these flavours and cuisines became more widespread, they were often pigeonholed with one style of wine (off-dry Riesling is not the sole wine partner for Asian cuisine and Gewürztraminer is, in my opinion, one of the worst matches with Indian cuisine). With today’s style of eating, wine and food should be less about pairing one wine with one dish and more about drinking versatile, well-balanced, food-friendly wines with a broader range of flavours and dishes. Multiple dishes with one wine (or multiple wines with multiple dishes) can provide different, yet still pleasurable, experiences. Food and wine are meant to be fun and experimentation often results in finding exceptional pairings that you may not have expected. Keep an open mind, try lots of wines with lots of different types of food with lots of people and free yourself of the stress of achieving the “perfect” match. Politely tell anyone who tries to impose their self-restricting rules on you to keep their antiquated opinions and palates to themselves. Or better yet, encourage them to go beyond their comfort zone. They might just thank you. 4 JULY/AUGUST 2019
TASTERS
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GERMAN WINE IN FOLDER WIN
a Long Weekend for Two in Berlin!
Discover cool wines, cool styles and cool flavours.
For more info please visit
germanwinecanada.com
Dry Riesling. Luscious Pinot Noir. Crisp Pinot Gris.
LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO
DO YOU KNOW HOW TO USE ICE? MOST OF US PROBABLY THINK WE DO, HAVING ACHIEVED LEVEL ONE ICE COMPETENCY BACK WHEN WE WERE KIDS, SUCKING ON CUBES AND LOADING OUR DRINKS WITH THEM IN THE HOT SUMMER MONTHS. Ice isn’t child’s
play, though, especially when it comes to tropical and tiki drinks, both of which require special attention when it comes to the ice. The secret to both, though, is pebble ice. “We serve the majority of our cocktails on crushed ice,” says Jason Laidlaw of the Shameful Tiki Room in Vancouver. “We’ve got a large machine that, inside, kind of looks like a wood chipper and spits out pebble ice, which are little chunks of ice about five millimetres around, similar to what you would see if you went to a fish shop.” Also called “nugget ice,” the chunks are a fair bit bigger than the really finely-crushed ice used to make snow cones and fluffy “shaved-ice” drinks. Since they’re bigger, the pebbles melt relatively slowly, which is perfect for keeping a long, tall and juicy tiki drink from becoming a big slushy mess. Crushed ice is also, incidentally, the key to making perfect tropical blender drinks, such as Margaritas, Daiquiris and Piña Coladas — not technically tiki drinks, although they’re often confused. A lot of home users simply toss cubes straight from the freezer into the blender along with, say, a ripe banana, rum, sugar and lime juice, then wonder why they have big lumps of ice floating around, getting in the way of enjoying their Banana Daiquiri. Crushing the ice first — before blending — solves this problem and will lead to a more consistent texture. “If you’re just making a drink or two, little hand-crank ice crushers are great,” says Laidlaw. “Unfortunately, you really have to track down a vintage one, because the new ones aren’t very sturdy and are made with a lot of plastic instead of metal. I think the old brand was Swing Away, which aren’t that hard to find.” The hand-crank requires patience, but churns out perfect, completely uniform nuggets, which are not only good for the drink, but also make for a beautiful visual effect. Bartenders, on the other hand, are more likely to buy a Lewis ice bag (really just a good canvas bag that comes with a mallet) and pound the ice until it’s crushed fairly evenly. The bonus of this method, is, of course, that pounding ice into shards has some therapeutic value as well. The third option, of course, is to invest in a nugget ice maker, which pumps out perfect pebbles effortlessly. But, Laidlaw says, if you love tiki drinks that much, you should probably just open your own tiki bar. 6 JULY/AUGUST 2019
ATOMIC ZOMBIE
This is an original, gorgeously complex cocktail made by Rhett Williams, who works with Laidlaw.
1 3/4 3/4 1 1/2 1 1/2 6 2 1
oz Wray & Nephew overproof Rum oz Ardbeg 10-year-old Scotch oz green Chartreuse oz fresh lime juice oz falernum* bar spoon grenadine* oz Don’s mix** drops Pernod dashes Angostura Bitters sprig mint
Fill a glass with all of the ingredients except the mint. Fill part-way with crushed ice, then “swizzle” it — a cocktail-mixing that technique requires sticking a bois lélé (a.k.a. swizzle stick) into the drink (with the prongs at the bottom), clapping your hands together around the sticking and rubbing your hands together until the drink is well mixed. Add more crushed ice until it’s practically overflowing. Garnish with the mint. *Grenadine, cinnamon syrup, and falernum are available commercially. We suggest BG Reynolds syrups, which can be bought from www.thecraftybartender.com or other good cocktail supply shops. **Don’s mix: 2/3 grapefruit juice (white preferred) to 1/3 cinnamon syrup. × × VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/MIXED/ FOR MORE DRINK RECIPES
River X AD to Vine
DEAKIN IN FOLDER
Deakin Estate wines are crafted from family owned vineyards that lie in the Murray Darling region of Australia. Here, the river weaves across the land, bringing life to our vines. Rich, fertile soils and a warm, sunny climate create a perfect environment for growing quality fruit to make these delicious wines.
MUST TRY ERIKA MANTOVAN
TIME FOR THE CONSORTIUM TURIN IS THE MIDDLE OF SOMETHING BIG. Besides the re-
cent creation of the Vermouth di Torino Protected Geographical Indication, there seemed to be a need for further regulation. Requested by the producers and the Turin Vermouth Institute, this past April saw the development of the Consortium of Vermouth di Torino. This gathering of entrepreneurs includes growers, processors of Piedmontese medicinal herbs and bottlers. The goal is to promote and maintain the quality of Vermouth coming from Turin. According to the decree, the Vermouth of Turin “is an aromatized wine obtained in Piedmont from one or more Italian wine products, all added with alcohol, then flavoured mainly with Artemisia jointly with other herbs and spices.” But there is so much more in the bottle. The increasing of interest in the United States and elsewhere has brought a number of new bottles made with ancient recipes both original or reinterpreted for the mixology market. In order to help you celebrate the year of the Negroni, we suggest some of the top producers from Turin.
COCCHI STORICO
Created for the anniversary of Vermouth, this bottling is a sweet one with a deep amber colour. It has a special elegance, an incredible velvety sip and a well-balanced body. 8 JULY/AUGUST 2019
ANTICA FORMULA
Produced in limited quantities, each bottle is numbered and labelled with the original graphic dating back to 1786. It creates a sweet, round and fresh taste due to hints of red fruits, saffron and herbs.
VERMOUTH DEL PROFESSORE
Made entirely by the Antica Distilleria Quaglia, it is aged for six months in small oak barrels. Balsamic and bitter notes are mixed with the orange and gentian hint in the after taste.
ANSELMO
Artisanal and old fashioned labels are reborn in a contemporary setting thanks to the passion of a group of friends. Its fragrance and freshness are melded together with liquorice and red citrus fruits for a lovely and typical vermuttino, the cocktail of Turin.
ANTICA TORINO
It is a new project made with white grapes from Italy and a special recipe including 13 herbs, which gives you a deep and delicate sip, rich in taste, nice balance of acid and alcohol. ×
LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC
TOO MANY BUDWEISERS I’m one of those people that likes to have a friendly talk with strangers at a bar. It’s fun to get to know someone and sometimes I get to spout some fun facts about whatever beer they’re drinking. For instance, if they order a Budweiser, I get to tell them one of my favourite stories in the history of beer. This is the story of the two Budweisers and the trademark dispute that has been going on for over 112 years. So, a bit of history. České Budějovice was a bustling city in the Kingdom of Bohemia (now the Czech Republic). It was founded by King Ottokar II in 1265 and was to be a monument of his power. When the city was granted brewing rights, breweries emerged and created a beer they called “Budweiser,” named after the German translation of the city’s name, which was Böhmisch Budweis. Later on in 1795, German brewers of the city founded Bürgerliches Brauhaus Budweis, which later became Budweiser Bier Bürgerbräu. One hundred years later, the brewery went on to become the official court supplier for the King of Württemberg. Additionally, at that time, the Czech breweries from Budweis formed a joint stock brewery that became Budějovický Budvar (Budweiser Budvar). Now we jump to America circa 1874 - 1875, when German immigrant Adol-
phus Busch, co-founder of what would become the famous Anheuser-Busch, began development of a rice-based beer with brewmaster Irwin Sproule for the St Louis-based importer Carl Conrad. Conrad contracted the two to make the pale beer with specific instructions on mimicking the style brewed in Budweis in order to stick out in an American market that was filled with pilsners. The resulting beer was slightly lighter in shade and Champagne-like in carbonation. Conrad began advertising it as the Original Budweiser, which was the first use of the name in the American market and one he promptly trademarked. Six years later, Conrad would go bankrupt and Anheuser-Busch would purchase the trademark rights. It then went on, as we know, to be one of the most successful beer brands in American history. All of that came together to form a massive amount of confusion when it came to international exporting. In
Europe, Budweiser had been known for over 600 years as beer from Budweis, which was made by two breweries from the region. However, in North America, Budweiser was the American-born king of beers, specifically made by Anheuser-Busch. All parties had legitimate claims over the name and all three agreed they would maintain the name in their respective markets. Budweiser Bier Bürgerbräu would be B.B. Burgerbräu in America, and Budweiser Budvar would be Budvar or Czechvar. In Europe, the American Budweiser would be simply labelled as Bud. But the story doesn’t end there. Since 1907 the dispute is still ongoing, made even more complicated by Anheuser-Busch’s purchase of Budweiser Bier Bürgerbräu in 2014, which brought forth a lot of usage disputes throughout Europe. So next time you order a Budweiser, be sure to specify which one you want! × JULY/AUGUST 2019 9
MAKING NEW HOMES
by Treve Ring
It seems that some Vitis vinifera vines are more firmly rooted than others. Nebbiolo, for example, is notoriously self-centred, thriving almost exclusively in its home patch of Piemonte. Others, like Chardonnay, are content to spread and prosper pretty much anywhere, which is why it has become one of the top grapes grown in all New World wine regions.
But what about grapes that were once firmly planted in one place and are now — thanks to adventuresome growers — making wines and impacting tastes around the world? We’ve seen Malbec migrate to Argentina, and Sauvignon Blanc dominate New Zealand. Are other Euro-entrenched grapes primed to make their name widely known in the brave New World, where appellation laws and historic traditions run less interference? Here are four contenders leading the charge.
SAVAGNIN
This tiny, green-hued berry is intrinsic with Jura and the region’s flor-affected wines, including the region’s legendary Vin Jaunes. It is thought that the grape may be a descendant and variation of the ancient Traminer, from current-day South Tyrol, and in the mutated family tree of Gewürztraminer. It shares cousin Gewürz’s temperamentality, ripening late and yielding low. Savagnin was an accidental tourist when it arrived and was planted in Australia in the early 21st century, thought to be Albariño for nearly a decade until proven otherwise. Tightly wound with refreshing citrus, aromatic white fruits and a kiss of anise, this lighter-bodied wine often finishes with a briny note. BK WINES SKIN N’ BONES WHITE 2017, LENSWOOD, ADELAIDE HILLS, AUSTRALIA ($35)
Brendon Keys, founder and winemaker of BK Wines, is a leading proponent of handcrafted, site-specific wines from the cool-climate Adelaide Hills. Keys seeks out special sites like this one to craft wines “made with love, not money.” Tight, salty and upright, this year’s Skin n’ Bones, a skin-contact Savagnin, is much sharper than the 2016. After a native ferment and one month on skins, it rested for nine months in neutral French oak. Fresh and taut is countered with a gentle leesy cushion, seasoned with salted nuts, quince, citrus pith along a striated, streamlined palate. Intellectually moreish. 10 JULY/AUGUST 2019
BIG HEAD WINES SAVAGNIN 2017, LINCOLN LAKESHORE, NIAGARA PENINSULA, ONTARIO ($25)
There are fewer than 10 acres of Savagnin planted in Ontario, where it has most often been made into a sweet wine from dried grapes. For the ripe 2017 vintage, Big Head didn’t dry their grapes as they had done in the past, instead working with what nature provided to experiment with a fresher take on the grape. It was fermented for five months in new thousand-litre casks, and finished with some residual sugar to balance off the grape’s striving acidity. Savoury notes of tea, almond and toast work alongside the weightier wine’s fleshy pear and ginger spicing, all wrapped up in a honeyed, sweet sheen.
CINSAULT
It’s easy to be charmed by the characterfulness of humble Cinsault. Widely planted in Southern France, it’s well adapted to heat and capable of high yields, making it more workhorse than thoroughbred. Cinsault has long been a silent softening partner, a historically favoured grape alongside Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre in the Southern Rhône. In blends, Cinsault brings perfume and lift, with a finely rasped pink and white peppercorn spice. These lovely, lighter, fresher perfumed qualities are readily apparent when the grape is vinified solo. At higher yields, this is a delightful and gulpable fresh red, ready to be chilled and enjoyed, abundantly. At lower yields, something more serious emerges, with stoniness, wild raspberry and wild herbs interwoven with the perfumed lightness. DE MARTINO VIEJAS TINAJAS CINSAULT 2018, ITATA VALLEY, CHILE ($45)
This wine really stuck De Martino, and Itata, on the world wine map when the first vintage was released in 2011. They found used and abandoned tinajas, handmade clay jars of varying shapes and sizes,
MARCO ANTONIO AND SEBASTIÁN DE MARTINO
while driving through vineyards in southern Chile, and decided to try using them for making wine in as their ancestors had done. They now have approximately 150 of these vessels in their care, each averaging 150 years old. The 2018 is youthful with perfumed lavender, wild herbs and a fine infusion of tea leaves. Gentle and soft pink grapefruit brightens the core, while easy acidity and whisper-fine tannins tie it together to the salty finish. NATTE VALLEIJ STELLENBOSCH CINSAULT 2017, STELLENBOSCH, SOUTH AFRICA ($30)
Young winemaker Alex Milner suddenly became very Cinsault-centric when a professor told him not to bother reading the Cinsault chapter in his textbook because it would be worthless to him. Fast-forward from that 2011 conversation to today, and the Natte Valleij Cinsault Collective. Alex set out to find forgotten patches of old dryland bush vine Cinsault across the Western Cape, expressing their individualities through low-interference winemaking. This is from old bush vines planted in 1974 in Helderberg Mountain’s sea-facing shadows and decomposed granite soils. This was destemmed into concrete egg, which is felt in the gently grippy texture throughout this bright, energetic wine. Sapid raspberry and plum are framed by fine tannins and buoyed by lifted acidity, showcasing its 11.7 percent alcohol.
TROUSSEAU
Jura’s indigenous Trousseau grape has already proven a successful immigrant, though only across Europe to Portugal, where it is known as Bastardo. The dark-skinned grape produces wines with a deep cherry hue, and flavours of forest berries, cherries and wild herbs. Trousseau loves the heat, absorbing the sun and transforming it into powerfully alcoholic wines when this late budder is allowed to marathon through a long harvest. However, earlier picking and lower yields result in fresher reds, with an alluring bitter amaro lick. THE EYRIE VINEYARDS TROUSSEAU 2016, WILLAMETTE VALLEY, OREGON, UNITED STATES ($50)
It makes perfect sense that Jason Lett, son of pioneering Papa Pinot David Lett, would plant some experimental plots of his own, like this, the Willamette’s first planting of Trousseau. Introduced in 2012 to the Sisters Vineyard’s volcanic basalt soils, the 2016 is just the second release of this wine. Native-fermented in stainless over two weeks, the wine was then transferred to neutral French oak for a six-month rest before bottling, with no sulphur throughout the process. Thorns, brambles and baking spice season this fresh, bright, sapid red, swirling around an earthy cherry and plum core. There’s a lovely pixelated texture JULY/AUGUST 2019 11
NATTE VALLEIJ’S ALEX MILNER
running the length of this wine, housed with finely gritty tannins and freshened by acidity. A welcome 11.5 percent.
Amazingly food-friendly, GV shines as a partner for tricky foods like artichokes, asparagus and arugula.
ARNOT-ROBERTS TROUSSEAU NORTH COAST 2017, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES ($50)
CULMINA FAMILY ESTATE WINERY UNICUS 2017, GOLDEN MILE BENCH, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($27)
Pouring a light rhubarb hue, this perfumed Trousseau was sourced from three sites across the North Coast, all planted on volcanic cobbles over river stones. Whole-cluster and native-fermented, this spent 11 months in a combination of neutral French oak barrels, puncheons and foudre. Wild blueberries, fine leather, autumn berries, anise and plum are seasoned with a light dusting of ash. Tannins are whisper fine and acidity is lofty, all of which welcome a chill and a chugging. Since founding their winery in 2001, childhood friends Duncan Arnot Meyers and Nathan Lee Roberts have been needle-moving, revolutionary producers in California.
The Triggs family have nailed Grüner with this vintage, setting the bar high for others to hopefully aspire to. From the Golden Mile Bench’s elevated Margaret’s Bench (650 metres), the 2017 blends fruit fermented in 57 percent stainless, 25 percent concrete egg and 18 percent concrete amphora. The concentrated core rises with easy, bright freshness and a gentle whiff of white pepper. Melon, yellow apple and green apple is all tidy with white grapefruit tightness. Drinking smartly now, this will continue to impress with bottle age.
GRÜNER VELTLINER
Austria’s groovy white grape is appreciated the world over, though GrüVe’s charm is relatively unknown outside of its ancestral home. Is it the umlaut that throws folks off ? The pronunciation? (Groon-er Velt-LEEN-er or Goo-new VEHLTlye-ner?) In any case, this crisp, herbal, lemon-oil-slicked and white-pepper-scented grape is compelling in youth, though with a few years’ maturity, the zestiness transforms into a honeyed, stony and profound wine, akin to fine Chenin Blanc, or Sémillon. 12 JULY/AUGUST 2019
QUARTZ REEF GRÜNER VELTLINER 2017, BENDIGO, CENTRAL OTAGO, NEW ZEALAND ($30)
From Quartz Reef’s certified biodynamic estate in Central Otago’s Bendigo region, this was planted in 2008 on sloping sandy loams and steepland soils around 215 metres altitude. The cooler, windy 2017 concentrated the fruit, providing a lovely structure and weight not seen in previous vintages. After whole-bunch pressing, this was native-fermented and aged on lees for 11 months. White honey, dried apricots, ripe melon and grapefruit are brightened with a pithy citrus acidity on the fuller, creamy palate, one that holds presence in the mouth, and lingers with a dusting of white pepper. ×
PURE
GOLD
by W. Blake Gray
Four hundred years ago, Sir Walter Raleigh was beheaded by order of England’s King James I in part because he refused to give up his quest to find El Dorado, a mythical city paved with gold. It’s much safer to seek out El Dorado today. Simply fly to Sacramento, California or Reno, Nevada, rent a car and get on US Route 50, which is called “The Loneliest Road in America” because of the stark desert valleys the Nevada portion winds through. JULY/AUGUST 2019 13
“WINES UP HERE ARE NOT MADE BY MARKETING DEPARTMENTS.” PAUL AND MAGGIE BUSH RUN MADROÑA IN THE HEART OF EL DORADO
In California, Route 50 follows the path of the miners who gave El Dorado County its name, after the discovery of gold in 1848 at Sutter’s Mill, near Coloma. The resultant gold rush reshaped the western United States, giving birth to San Francisco as the west’s banking centre, for example. It also led miners from Italy to plant Zinfandel so they had something to drink. These vines are now some of the oldest in the state. Today, some tourists still visit El Dorado to try their hand at panning for gold. But most come for the agriculture. Pickyour-own fruit operations are popular, or you can buy giant boxes or bags of apples, cherries, peaches or blueberries in season. In December, you can visit Christmas tree farms to choose and then chop down your own tree. Wine grapes are just a part of the agricultural scene, and not even the largest part. In 2016, the apple harvest was worth $19.3 million according to the California Department of Agriculture, while wine grapes were valued at $8.7 million, just ahead of cattle. North America has lots of small, fairly unknown wine regions like this. But 14 JULY/AUGUST 2019
El Dorado is different because the wines are quite good: world class, at their best. It’s a special terroir, even if the world doesn’t know it. El Dorado County is the highest-elevation wine region in California, ranging from 365 to 1,070 metres. If that sounds not just high but hilly, it is. In many cases, grapevines have been planted on hills because they’re not as conducive to growing apples. El Dorado is high enough to be above the fog line, giving it plenty of sunshine, while the alpine heights give some relief from summer heat. Like the rest of California, the rainy season is winter, which means rains during harvest are rarely a problem. And the diurnal temperature difference is extreme. If you plan to visit, bring a jacket: you’ll want it by early evening. There are some fine wineries here, but you don’t see the wines in Canada or even in San Francisco, because they have given up on distribution. There is no behemoth. Madroña Vineyards, making less than 14,000 cases annually, is enormous for El Dorado. This is a region of small fam-
ily farms, where if you belly up to the bar in the tasting room, the person pouring is likely to be the owner or winemaker. As for what varietals to buy, that depends on where you are and how curious you are. Zinfandel recently passed Cabernet Sauvignon as the most-planted grape, and Rhône varieties are also popular. But there are 70 different grape varieties planted here and, because of the microclimates, many of them have found a good home. Moreover, because there is no corporate winemaking, some wineries like to bottle up their Graciano, Negroamaro or Picpoul Blanc as single-variety wines that you rarely see elsewhere. I started drinking wines from Madroña and Boeger, two of the region’s most important wineries, when I moved to San Francisco 20 years ago. They’re terrific value. Boeger produces solid, fruit-driven, no-nonsense wines and charges surprisingly low prices for them. Madroña is in a slightly cooler part of the region and its wines are quirkier, but also affordable and rewarding. But then they disappeared from stores.
“That was a conscious decision, way back when,” Madroña owner/winemaker Paul Bush told me. “We had young kids. I was travelling too much. Our tasting room was already such a big part of what we do. We said, ‘We should be able to sell everything from essentially Sacramento to Lake Tahoe.’ And we do. I haven’t picked up any new distributors since then.” MOST EL DORADO WINERIES FEEL THAT WAY. Brian Bumgarner worked at
Boeger for 11 years before forging out on his own in 2005. His nascent eponymous winery, Bumgarner, got a boost after it opened when his very distant cousin, Madison Bumgarner, began starring for the San Francisco Giants. Bumgarner the winemaker wanted to make Cabernet Sauvignon differently than the rest of the region. “Everybody here has Cabernet but they make it like Zinfandel, in a lighter, fruitier style,” he says. “There’s a lot of concentration if you age it 24 to 36 months. Also, I’m working with multiple clones.” Bumgarner Cabernet Sauvignon is a standout — intense, brooding and fresh — and it is just $38, a pittance for a California Cab of this quality. He makes about 4,000 cases of wine total and he also makes hard cider, because his main tasting room is right next to the epicentre of apple tourism, Apple Hill. He sells out of both wine and cider so easily every year that he just opened a second tasting room. Holly’s Hill Vineyards has hung its hat on Rhône grapes, specifically Mourvèdre: they do three different Mourvèdres and a red blend. Mourvèdre is a tricky grape to ripen, even in California, but being above the fog line makes it possible. Done right, it’s a personal favourite of mine, and I’m a fan of Holly’s Hill’s versions. “It’s just an awesome workhorse of a grape,” says winemaker Carrie Bendick. “As the main part of a blend, it allows everything else to show through. Some people don’t like the mushroomy feel to it. Ours has more of a wet forest floor. It reminds me of an early-morning hike.” You can also find Chardonnay in El Dorado — you can find practically any grape here. There’s even some respectable Pinot Noir grown on north-facing slopes (Gwinllan Estate Winery is doing very
nice sparkling wines with the Pinot). But more wineries seem to have decided on Viognier as their flagship white (try the aromatic one made by Lewis Grace Winery). It’s typical of the approach wineries take when they don’t have to make what they think will sell statewide. “Wines up here are not made by marketing departments,” says Madroña’s Bush. “I only make the wines for me and my wife. Because there are small family wineries that are willing to experiment, we can make what we like up here.” Bush says that until recently the long list of varietals was a disadvantage, but younger consumers are actually seeking diversity. “This is an area that has a reputation for working well not just with the wine connoisseur, but with the wine novice,” Bush says. “You can ask whatever questions you have. You can ask those questions that would be a little bit more difficult to ask in other areas. If you do visit El Dorado, leave yourself plenty of time. Wineries are spread out; there’s no true centre, although there are several tasting rooms clustered in the town of Camino. Most roads are simple two-laners. Fine dining is thin on the ground, and the area is also short of good hotels, though several motels dot US Route 50. However, Sacramento and the vacation town of Lake Tahoe are both less than 100 kilometres away in opposite directions, and Reno is less than 200 kilometres away. You can also slip in a visit to Yosemite National Park, which is under 300 kilometres. Don’t just buy the wine: get some fresh fruit while you’re there. “We get about 700,000 agritourists coming through for apple pies and Christmas trees and pumpkins,” Bush says. “Wine tends to pull all of that together. We benefit from the diversity of other crops in this area. That’s a concern for me: monocultures. I’m standing outside and I can see Christmas trees; I can see pears. There’s plums over there. Raspberries. That’s not possible in a lot of areas. Small apple or peach orchards, they’re not so sustainable unless you have a group that’s doing it. From an economic standpoint, people will come up for blueberries in June. They’ll get their blueberries, and then they’ll go wine-tasting.” ×
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ECONOMICS
by Michael Apstein
Even casual wine drinkers know that Burgundy has become expensive. Supply and demand economics explain why. 16 JULY/AUGUST 2019
Thanks to France’s strict wine appellation regulations, the supply is limited while worldwide demand has exploded. Over the past decade, I’ve noticed a huge increase in Chinese, Japanese, Russians and others from non-traditional markets attending major Burgundy wine events, such as the Hospices de Beaune wine auction and Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne (a biennial week-long series of tastings), reflecting the increased interest in those countries. To make matters worse, harvests from 2010 to 2016 were far smaller than usual. Quantities from the 2017 and 2018 harvests are up, but don’t look for prices to drop. In Burgundian economics, there’s no law of gravity — what goes up, stays up. So, what’s the solution? Win the lottery or, more practically, look to lesser-known regions slightly off the beaten track and find producers who have yet to become rock stars. The patchwork of vineyard ownership makes Burgundy confusing. There are scores of wines labelled Corton-Charlemagne from multiple producers — some growers, some négociants. How to choose? The single most important element in buying
Burgundy is the producer’s name, which trumps appellation and vintage. Talented producers can make excellent wine from the least well-endowed land in the most difficult vintage. If the mantra for buying real estate is location, location, location, for Burgundy, it’s producer, producer, producer. Find producers whose wines you like and stick with them. Burgundy is in such high demand because not only are the wines delicious, they are also unique. Though regulations require the exclusive use of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for the vast majority of the wines, they are not just another predictable Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. Indeed, Jacques Lardière, the former and legendary winemaker at Maison Louis Jadot, once told me, “If you taste Chardonnay in my wines, I’ve made a mistake.” He was, of course, referring to the concept of terroir, the French idea now championed around the globe that the grape is merely a vehicle for bringing the unique “taste” of the vineyard to its wine. In Burgundy, two wines made by the same winemaking team in the same year from the same grape grown literally yards apart can, and often will, taste remarkably different. Though its vineyards have been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site because of their expression of terroir, Burgundy does not have a monopoly on the concept. Just taste the Meyer Family Vineyards’ 2015 Pinot Noir from the Reimer Vineyard along with its 2015 from the McLean Creek Road Vineyard and you’ll see that the concept is also alive and well in the Okanagan. What’s unique about Burgundy, and why it’s ground zero for terroir, is the ease with which consumers can discover it. Because of French inheritance laws, the region’s winegrowers typically wind up owning small portions of multiple vineyards. What’s more, Burgundy — unlike Barolo (another region where terroir reigns) — has a long tradition of négociants, wine merchants who buy grapes or unfinished wines and then make wine or complete the winemaking process themselves. Virtually all of the most important négociants are, in fact, major winegrowers themselves. Indeed, the line between “grower” and “négociant” is becoming increasingly blurred as growers expand their businesses by becoming small négociants, while the important négociants, such as Jadot and Faiveley, have continued to buy more vineyards. Tasting a range of wines either from négociants or smaller growers shows the difference the vineyard makes. All else is the same: regulations determine that the grape and the winemaking practice will be more or less consistent across the range of a producer’s wines. The near-magic of terroir is fortunately not limited to the famous villages of the Côte-d’Or, the heart and most expensive part of Burgundy. (The locals will tell you that the origin of the term Côte-d’Or is from the slope’s eastern face — towards the Orient — but actually, it’s the price of the wines. “Or” is French for “gold.”) The other sections of Burgundy — Chablis to the north and the Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais to the south — transmit perfect examples of terroir at more reasonable prices. The best red wines of Beaujolais are among the greatest bargains in the fine wine world, reflecting their origins every bit as well as the more expensive reds from other parts of Burgundy. To me, the fundamental character of red and white Burgundy is what I call flavour without weight. The reds are packed × FOR MORE VALUED-ADDED BURGUNDY PRODUCERS VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/DRINKS/
with flavour but, unlike Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines, they have little weight. Savoury and earthy notes, rather than overtly fruity ones, explode and then dance gracefully across the palate. They don’t hit you over the head with power. Instead, their elegance seizes your attention. Indeed, the difference among the wines as you move up the so-called prestige ladder from Village to Premier and Grand Cru bottlings is not so much greater power or concentration as textural elegance — think lamb’s wool versus cashmere — and persistence. THIS CHARACTER MAKES RED BURGUNDY PERFECT FOR A WIDE VARIETY OF FOOD, FROM CHICKEN IN A MUSHROOM SAUCE TO ROASTED SALMON TO GRILLED DUCK BREAST.
Despite their lightness, they also go well with beef, as in Boeuf Bourgogne. White Burgundies convey the same paradox of lightness and power. They, too, shun fruitiness in favour of mineral flavours. White Burgundies, especially Chablis, are ideal with simply prepared seafood. Chablis’ palate-cleansing citrus acidity is the ideal foil for fish or shellfish. The richness and depth of flavour in white Burgundy also make it a good match for chicken, or veal in a cream sauce, since the creamy minerality of the wine amplifies the sauce while the acidity cuts the richness. Chablis, though certainly not off the beaten track, gets my vote as the best-value white wine appellation in the world. Like the rest of Burgundy, there’s a prestige hierarchy that goes from Chablis (Village) to Premier and Grand Cru Chablis. Additionally, there’s Petit Chablis, which sits below Chablis and, in the right hands, offers fabulous value. Overall, Chablis, Burgundy’s lightest expression of Chardonnay, are flinty and elegant, delivering citrus raciness. As you go up the prestige ladder, the wines become fuller-bodied with more complexity and a longer finish. Petit Chablis and Chablis are ready to drink upon release, though the best village Chablis will develop more complexity after a few years in the bottle. They can easily last and even improve for a decade, as Drouhin’s decade-old 2008 Domaine Vaudon Chablis Réserve de Vaudon reminded me recently. Premier and Grand Cru Chablis, on the other hand, need a minimum of five to 10 years, respectively, to show their potential. In the Côte Chalonnaise region, Mercurey and Rully offer good-value reds and whites. Both colours from both villages convey a firm, stony character, with the wines from Rully being more than a touch lighter. The reds from Mercurey, especially, and Rully take a few years of bottle age to round out, whereas the whites are ready to drink upon release, but do develop engaging complexity with a few years of bottle age. The other major village, Montagny, is home exclusively to whites, which are often slightly more full bodied. Bouzeron, a village which also produces only white wines, is unique in mandating the Aligoté grape instead of Chardonnay. Its wines, though lighter, display an alluring spiciness and bracing acidity. Mâconnais wines, almost exclusively white, vary from innocuous to stunning. Those labelled Mâcon-Villages can come from anywhere in the appellation. If the grapes come exclusively from a particular village, the wine could carry the village’s name, such as Mâcon-Lugny, but the producer’s name is still the most important information on the label. The most JULY/AUGUST 2019 17
MAISON LOUIS JADOT DOMAINE GAGEY 2017, BOUZERON ($35)
ISABELLE ET DENIS POMMIER CHABLIS 2016, CROIX AUX MOINES ($30)
Jadot acquired 5 ha (12.5 acres) in Bouzeron in 2011 from Aubert de Villaine, the most prominent vineyard owner in that village. From it, they made a beautiful example of Bouzeron in 2017. Minerally and fresh, it conveys good depth, especially for Aligoté, with enlivening, but not aggressive, acidity. A long, focused finish adds to its appeal. A great choice for this summer’s drinking.
This village Chablis shows the wonderful values available from the appellation, as produced by a selection of old vines from various plots within Croix aux Moines. Pommier vinified the grapes partially in older oak vats and partially in stainless-steel tanks. It’s a long and graceful wine. You feel the effect of the oak without it interfering with the wine’s minerality. It demonstrates that oak is not necessarily a problem — more often it’s how it’s used. This Chablis is an exceptional choice for current drinking.
DOMAINE ROGER LASSARAT POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2016, CLOS DE FRANCE ($50)
Roger Lassarat, one of the top growers in the Mâconnais, is a star at expressing the unique terroir of the plots in Pouilly-Fuissé, such as Clos de France, and in Saint-Véran. The Clos de France vineyard, located in Vergisson between the church and the castle, is on the list for promotion to Premier Cru status. So, combine a great site with a great producer and, unsurprisingly, you get a great wine. Showing the heights to which Pouilly-Fuissé can rise, this one is energetic and stone-y. It has wonderful depth, expressing minerals balanced by a creamy richness. Though easy to enjoy now, my experience with Lassarat’s wines is that they develop beautifully over 5 to 10 years. PERNOT-BELICARD BOURGOGNE BLANC 2016 ($35)
The Pernot part is Philippe Pernot, who learned winemaking at the side of his grandfather, the famed Paul Pernot, one of the leading producers in Puligny-Montrachet. When Philippe married, his wife brought with her the family’s vineyards, the grapes from which were up until that point sold to négociants. Though the Pernot-Belicard domaine was founded less than a decade ago, the vineyards had been in the Belicard family for generations so there are plenty of old vines. This 2016 clearly demonstrates the value of buying wines from down-market appellations made by talented producers. Coming from vineyards just outside of the confines of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, it delivers far more than the price suggests. Purity, a hint of creaminess, a touch of spice and vivacity all come together here. Ideal for drinking now, but I suspect this “simple” Bourgogne Blanc will develop nicely over the next few years given its balance. MAISON SIMONNET-FEBVRE CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2016, VAILLONS ($45)
The weather in Chablis and the rest of Burgundy in 2016 was atrocious, with widespread frost and capricious hail. Though yields were down and quality was more variable than usual, some producers, such as Simonnet-Febvre, made exceptional wines. Their laser-like style, readily apparent in this Vaillons, suited the 2016 vintage well. Its Premier Cru stature is evident in its elegance and length. Tightly wound now, so give it a few years in the cellar. 18 JULY/AUGUST 2019
DOMAINE JESSIAUME SANTENAY 2016, CLOS DU CLOS GENET ($45)
Domaine Jessiaume is one of those estates whose wines have catapulted in quality because of a new general manager and winemaker. Fortunately for us, the prices have yet to catch up. Within the Clos Genet, a vineyard with “only” a village appellation, is a true clos (a walled vineyard), owned by Jessiaume. Always one of their best wines, the 2016 Clos du Clos Genet fits that mould. It has remarkable elegance, with spicy red-fruit-like flavours and an alluring hint of charming rusticity for which the wines of Santenay are known. It would be lovely now with a roast chicken in a mushroom sauce. An extraordinary buy. MAISON LOUIS LATOUR MERCUREY 2015 ($35)
Louis Latour, like the other excellent Beaune-based négociants, makes wines from all over Burgundy, not just the Côte-d’Or. Their 2015 Mercurey delivers bright cherry-like flavours atop a firm, stony base. A hint of cherry-pit-like bitterness in the finish balances the ripeness of the vintage. Brilliant acidity, a hallmark of Latour’s wines, keeps it fresh. It’s a great choice for current drinking with grilled salmon. MAISON LOUIS JADOT MONTHÉLIE 1ER CRU 2015, CHAMPS FULLIOT ($60)
The Champs Fulliot vineyard in Monthélie is basically an extension of Volnay’s Clos des Chênes vineyard to its north. Not surprisingly, Jadot’s Champs Fulliot, with its suave texture, is, indeed, reminiscent of Volnay. It leads with gorgeous floral aromas and it finishes with freshness. In between, there’s an explosive combination of red-fruit-like and savoury flavours. It’s a junior varsity Volnay at a very attractive price.
FRÉDÉRIC AND PHILIPPE DROUHIN WITH OENOLOGIST VÉRONIQUE BOSS-DROUHIN AND LAURENT DROUHIN
renowned appellation here is Pouilly-Fuissé, whose wines also vary from mundane to magical. Recently, Pouilly-Fuissé growers convinced French wine regulators to identify Premier Cru vineyards. So, consumers will start to see that distinction on labels beginning with the 2019 vintage. Quality-wise, between Mâcon-Villages and Pouilly-Fuissé are a number of smaller, less well-known appellations, which can represent great value because they lack the name recognition of Pouilly-Fuissé, and the terroir is, in general, better than that of Mâcon-Villages. Look for wines from Saint-Véran, Viré-Clessé, Pouilly-Vinzelles and Pouilly-Loché. Broadly speaking, the wines from the Mâconnais display an appealingly straight-forward combination of fruitiness — though not as overt as in California Chardonnay — and minerality. The minerality can be especially pronounced in the wines from the more prestigious sites. These wines offer immediate enjoyment upon release, but the wines from the top sites and the best Pouilly-Fuissé growers develop unimaginable complexity after a decade of bottle age. Even in the Côte-d’Or, consumers can get a taste of this hallowed ground without breaking the bank. In the Côte de Nuits, the northern half and more prestigious area for reds, look to Marsannay, a village abutting Gevrey-Chambertin to its north. The wines here have skyrocketed in quality over the last decade, so much so that the French wine bureaucracy has started identifying Premier Cru vineyards in the village. For now, though, all the wines of Marsannay are still classified as village wine — which, fortunately, has, so far, kept the prices down. Mere village wines though they may be, Marsan-
nay reds nevertheless still transmit the earthy and savoury notes for which the Côte de Nuits is famous. They also have the advantage of developing beautifully after only a few years in the bottle. Red wines from the Côte de Beaune, the southern half of the Côte-d’Or, are generally lighter than those from the Côte de Nuits, yet still transmit the glorious “flavour without weight” quality. Here, consumers should look to Santenay and Maranges, two villages at the very southern end of the Côte, where the prices of their red wines, which deliver a charming rusticity, have not yet caught up to their quality. Finding affordable white wines from the Côte-d’Or presents more of a problem. Premier and Grand Cru whites are out of the question. It’s even hard to find reasonably priced white village wines except for the occasional Auxey-Duresses, Saint-Aubin or Santenay. My advice: search for Bourgogne Blanc, which by regulation is still made from Chardonnay, but grown anywhere in Burgundy. A grower’s Bourgogne Blanc will usually come from the family’s vineyards, likely located near their cellars. For example, Domaine Paul Pernot’s consistently fine Bourgogne Blanc comes from vineyards they own just outside of the limits of Puligny-Montrachet, not far from their cellars. Though large négociants, such as Drouhin, Jadot and Latour, can source their Chardonnay for Bourgogne Blanc from anywhere in Burgundy, their wines should definitely not be shunned — indeed, they should be embraced — because they offer tremendous value. So, instead of shunning Burgundy, embrace its outer reaches and get to know its multiple gifted producers, both small and large. You, too, will be charmed by its wines. × JULY/AUGUST 2019 19
ELEVATING THE EXPERIENCE by Gurvinder Bhatia
LONDON IS, IN MY OPINION, THE RESTAURANT EPICENTRE OF THE GLOBE. You could easily spend multiple
lifetimes traversing the diversity, quality and innumerable styles being served up in every type of eatery imaginable, in every price range from budget conscious to the three-comma club. For wine lovers, London is a dream. Outstanding restaurant wine programs, intriguing wine-by-the-glass selections and accessibility (note, I’m writing this pre-Brexit) to almost any wine grown on the planet provide endless opportunities for the curious novice or serious oenophile. Drinking great-quality wine in London is easy. At true wine bars like Terroirs and Noble Rot, the food is delicious and well prepared, but the wine sets the stage and plays the starring role. At Terroirs (terroirswinebar.com), near Trafalgar Square, the selection of predominantly small plates is perfectly prepared to “complement your drinking.” And your drinking is centred around “wines that most 20 JULY/AUGUST 2019
sympathetically reflect the place from which they originate, the nature of the vintage and the personality of the grower.” All this in a casual, friendly, unpretentious, yet informative manner that is intended to welcome all, not just those in the know, into the real wine world of wine growers versus the manufactured homogeneity that so many in our industry rationalize and give credibility to. Terroirs should be everyone’s neighbourhood wine bar. Noble Rot (noblerot.co.uk/wine-bar), from the owners of the energetic and interesting magazine of the same name, has an adventurous but approachable wine list with a deceptively simple and well-executed menu in a warmly elegant yet vibrant room. What’s not for a wine enthusiast to love? London is also home to the quintessential wine bar 67 Pall Mall (67pallmall. co.uk). A private members’ club (full disclosure, I am a member) created “by wine lovers for wine lovers,” the Club offers an extensive wine list of well-priced offer-
ings with a reasonable markup intended to sell wine versus collect the bottles as museum pieces. The high-end is relatively accessible and selections, including more than 800 wines by the glass, are carefully curated by the knowledgeable wine team led by Master Sommelier Ronan Sayburn and head sommelier Terry Kandylis, winner of the 2016 UK Sommelier of the Year. Weekly — almost daily — wine tastings, master classes and winemakers’ dinners, and the ability for members to store some of their personal wine collection in the Club’s temperature-controlled cellars, provide a home for wine lovers that may be unparallelled. In addition to all the great wine-centric restaurants and wine bars, where London has excelled relative to the rest of the world is with respect to ethnic restaurants with stellar wine programs. These restaurants are further assisting in dispelling the myth, which too many people still hold, that Indian, Malaysian, Chinese, Mexican, Middle Eastern and
other such cuisines do not lend themselves to the same level of wine programs as those serving what most people traditionally perceive as wine-friendly cuisines (Italian, Spanish, French, Western cuisine, et cetera). Nothing could be further from the truth. The perception is that the flavours and particularly the spice of Indian, Thai, Japanese, Chinese, Vietnamese, Malaysian, Middle Eastern and Latino cuisines, for example, don’t lend themselves to accompanying wine. The biggest misconception is that spice is all about heat — most often, though, spice is actually more about flavour and building layers of flavour. And even when there is heat, if it’s utilized well — understanding that everyone has different tolerance levels — the heat should be a slow build and should not overwhelm the flavours in the dish. IN LONDON, SO MANY ETHNIC RESTAURANTS HAVE ELEVATED THE PRESENTATION OF THEIR FOOD AND THEIR SERVICE TO MORE OF A PERCEIVED FINE-DINING STYLE WITHOUT COMPROMISING THE FLAVOURS AND INTEGRITY OF THE DISHES. They
are also showing that an Indian, Thai, Chinese, et cetera restaurant can have a great wine list and that there is an abundance of wine styles and varieties that can and will complement these cuisines beyond off-dry Riesling. Kiln (kilnsoho.com) has a stripped down, diner feel, serving grilled, seafood and claypot dishes influenced by the regions where Thailand borders Myanmar, Laos and China’s Yunnan province but prepared using British-sourced ingredients. The menu and wine list are relatively small and very well priced. The lamb and cumin skewer, stir-fried greens and soy, fried curried monkfish and claypot-baked glass noodles with Tamworth pork belly and brown crabmeat provided a range of explosive flavours and levels of heat that quite simply left me wanting to try all of the dishes on the menu. The softly textured, lightly fruity and slightly earthy Le Grain de Sénevé Beaujolais was a lovely match across all the dishes. Bombay Bustle (bombaybustle.com), Indian Accent (indianaccent.com), Gymkhana (gymkhanalondon.com) and Jam-
avar ( jamavarrestaurants.com) all take the notion of wine with Indian cuisine to a level that should erase the doubts of even the most skeptical and conservative food and wine traditionalists. The food at each of these establishments was beyond expectations (and would blow the mind of anyone whose idea of Indian food is a buffet where all the dishes are prepared using the same oil-laden masala). The masala akuri (spiced scrambled eggs) with shaved black truffle on naan (one of this year’s food highlights for me), trio of mini duck dosa and Goan-spiced fish tikka at Bombay Bustle; the dazzling amuse of blue cheese naan and spiced
balance to accompany a wide range of flavours and dishes. Who would have guessed that a 2006 Sassella Valtellina Superiore (Nebbiolo-based wine from northern Italy) would so well accompany the dishes at Indian Accent? But it worked. As did the Beaujolais, Blaufränkisch, Grüner Veltliner, Albariño, Pinot Blanc, Rossese di Dolceacqua, white Burgundy, red Burgundy, Chenin Blanc, Côtes du Rhône, Nero d’Avola, Cinsault, Friulano, Champagne and English sparkling wines. These restaurants are reinforcing that off-dry Riesling is far from being the only match for their cuisine — and is often not the best match.
67 PALL MALL IS A PRIVATE MEMBERS’ CLUB CREATED “BY WINE LOVERS FOR WINE LOVERS,” OFFERING AN EXTENSIVE WINE LIST OF WELL-PRICED OFFERINGS INTENDED TO SELL WINE VERSUS COLLECT THE BOTTLES AS MUSEUM PIECES.
pumpkin soup, soybean keema with quail’s egg, duck shami kebab with berry chutney and green pea kofta with sweet potato and coconut curry at Indian Accent; the venison keema, Lasooni wild tiger prawns and Gilafi quail seekh kebab at Gymkhana; and the tasting menu at Jamavar all elevate Indian cuisine without compromising the essence of its flavours and traditions. There was a casual professionalism exhibited by the staff at each of the restaurants. They answered questions and were there when needed, but we never felt watched or rushed. But where these restaurants excel, in my opinion, is with their accompanying wine programs, which show the diversity and versatility of the range of wine varieties and styles that will, and do, complement the cuisine. They also understand that it’s not about pairing one wine with one dish. Since Indian cuisine (and most Asian cuisines) is served family-style, with multiple dishes on the table at once, pairing is about selecting wines that have the versatility and
Just as the aforementioned establishments have elevated the concept of Indian cuisine and wine, numerous restaurants, such as Hunan and Som Saa, have accomplished the same for other Asian and perceived non-wine-friendly cuisines. The Chinese- and Taiwanese-influenced tasting menu at Hunan, for example, with its elegant finesse and bold flavours was accompanied smashingly by a 2016 Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru les Chaumes and a sublime 2016 Foillard Morgon Côte du Py. It’s time that we finally put to bed the misperception that wine is limited to only those cuisines that evolved with traditional wine cultures. Tiny oases do exist in other parts of the world, but when you combine ethnic diversity with a critical mass of culinary talent and dining culture in a wine-centric global hub such as London, the exceptions often become the expected. London is doing its part; it’s time to expect more from wine programs at ethnic restaurants throughout the rest of the world. × JULY/AUGUST 2019 21
RESTITUTION by Tim Pawsey
After decades of being used, abused and generally misunderstood, is BC Riesling finally getting the respect it deserves?
To better comprehend the challenges faced by Riesling in Canada’s westernmost province, you have to go back more than 40 years to 1977. That was when the marketing gurus at Calona Wines (now owned by Andrew Peller Limited) launched Schloss Laderheim. Their intent? Take firm aim at imported — as in German — Riesling and its various blended iterations. These cheap wines were threatening the dominance of the major Canadian wineries, propped up as they were — and some insist still are — by government bias. Calona’s plan succeeded. The brown “hock” bottle, complete with its cheesy, made-up German-sounding name, took the cheap wine market by storm. Four years later, Schloss Laderheim had left even Baby Duck in its wake. Not surprisingly, when Calona’s competitors witnessed its success, they felt obliged to emulate it with a string of knock-offs. In essence, they cemented the foundation for Canada’s worldwide wine embarrassment, the Cellared in Canada — now International Canadian Blend — fiasco. The legacy of that original onslaught lingered long in the consumer’s mind. Even today, the less informed continue to associate Riesling with a sweeter, not off-dry or drier wine. Happily, though, there are signs that perception is changing. The reasons for Riesling’s resilience are many. For one, its lengthy history, which dates from Roman times. Somewhat more recently, the variety was popularized by Queen Victoria and 22 JULY/AUGUST 2019
her consort, Prince Albert, when they visited the Rheingau in 1845. The young royals were akin to modern-day rockstars, the Charles and Diana of their era, dedicated to reinventing the monarchy. That was well before the German wine industry turned its attention to higher-producing varieties, such as Sylvaner, and poor-quality blends for export. Riesling begin to wane. Among BC’s early wine pioneers was a handful of Riesling “believers” whose conviction was reinforced by the Geisenheim Grape Breeding Institute’s Dr Helmut Becker, who included the variety in his 1970s trials. In fact, in his test plantings, Riesling proved reliable throughout much of the Okanagan Valley — which was distinctly more “cool climate” 50 years ago than it is today. It was only natural that all the original farm-gate wineries with strong German connections, such as Gehringer, Gray Monk, Lang and Wild Goose, would plant Riesling at the outset. As Wild Goose’s founder, the late Adolf Kruger, once said, “I lived on the Rhine and wine was cheaper than beer. And we drank predominantly Riesling, so that’s what we planted.” While some dabbled in drier styles, off-dry wines were these wineries’ bread and butter. They proved to be popular drops, an easy sale in the tasting room. The wines showed a purity of fruit buoyed by the Okanagan’s trademark acidity. They were rarely actually “sweet” — unless purposefully made in a late-harvest or Icewine style.
TANTALUS VINEYARDS RIESLING 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($22)
Hand-harvested from a variety of blocks, including the original 1978 East Kelowna planting. Fruit from each block was fermented separately and later blended. Upfront citrus, floral and mineral notes, followed by a juicy, vibrant palate of tropical and lime notes wrapped in juicy acidity, with excellent length and zesty aftertaste. TANTALUS VINEYARDS OLD VINES RIESLING 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($30)
One hundred percent fruit from the original planting. Hand-harvested and fermented almost completely dry. Forward, intense lemon-lime notes with stony undertones, followed by textured layers of peach and citrus with racy but keenly focused and well-balanced acidity throughout. Another outstanding example of Riesling’s true potential from this site. TANTALUS VINEYARDS DEN’S BLOCK 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($55)
Winemaker David Paterson describes this fitting tribute to the pioneering Denis Martin Dulik as his “first Spatlese style.” Hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed then wild fermented in neutral oak. Bottled after five months on lees and aged two years in bottle. Evolving petrol notes with intense tropical, citrus and stone-fruit aromas preceding a luscious but firmly focused palate defined by bright acidity and keen minerality through a lengthy finish. KITSCH WINES MARIA’S BLOCK RIESLING 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($25)
From one of the Okanagan’s rising stars, near Tantalus, a relatively new venture from a family with a long history in the valley. Stone fruit and citrus on the nose, with a hint of developing petrol before a well-balanced lemon-lime palate buoyed by racy acidity through the lingering finish. FORT BERENS DRY RIESLING 2017, LILLOOET ($20)
All estate-grown fruit, hand-harvested and stainless-steel fermented. Upfront aromas of citrus and orchard fruit, bright green apple and zesty lemon notes with a streak of minerality below zippy acidity, the product of significant diurnal temperatures. Crisp and clean through the finish. CEDARCREEK BLOCK 3 RIESLING 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($30)
From 26-year-old vines on steep, north-facing slopes in South Kelowna, overlooking Okanagan Lake. Eighty percent stainless-steel fermented, with the balance in neutral oak, five months on lees. Upfront stone-fruit and citrus aromas precede a vibrant, racy and mouth-watering palate underpinned by keen acidity through the lengthy finish. CULMINA R&D DRY-ISH RIESLING 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($23)
From Oliver estate-grown fruit. Upfront citrus, mineral and apple notes precede a well-balanced, mouth-watering palate of peach and pineapple notes supported by good mouthfeel and keen acidity through a refreshing finish. SPEARHEAD RIESLING 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($22)
Fruit from the Mount Boucherie bench and Gentleman Farmer in Southeast Kelowna. Hand-harvested, whole-bunch pressed and stainless-steel fermented. Upfront floral and citrus notes precede a juicy, stone-fruit, lime and flinty palate with a zesty edge and lingering chalky finish.
JULY/AUGUST 2019 23
Tantalus’ success with Riesling is also rubbing off on other southeast Kelowna and Mission district wineries
In 1978, the late Denis Dulik planted Riesling in part of the former Pioneer Vineyard in East Kelowna, which he had purchased from legendary grower J.W. Hughes. BC wine authority John Schreiner notes that Dulik (who previously had grown only Labrusca) was encouraged to plant Riesling by Jordan and Ste-Michelle winemaker Josef Zimmerman. He was convinced that Riesling was as ideally suited to the Okanagan as proven German regions like Mosel and the Rheingau. With rootstock sourced from St Urbans-Hof, Dulik’s plantings soon paid off. The 1981 vintage took a gold medal at what later became the Okanagan Wine Festival. His daughter Susan Dulik later established Pinot Reach Cellars, which was sold in 2004 and became the genesis for Tantalus Vineyards. Despite the change in ownership, Denis Dulik continued to work for Tantalus in the vineyard he had established. ARGUABLY THE WORLD’S LEADING RIESLING AUTHORITY (AND CERTAINLY ITS MOST VOCAL ADVOCATE) IS PLANET RIESLING AUTHOR STUART PIGOTT. When Pigott
visited the Okanagan a few years back, he visited Tantalus and Okanagan Falls’ Synchromesh Wines. After tasting their wines, he anointed some as “blade-runners,” his self-coined and entirely appropriate label for wines that reward with a certain steeliness and clarity. It’s those characteristics — more the tension that defines the wine’s style than its actual sweetness or dryness — that has captured the imagination of a growing number of winemakers. 24 JULY/AUGUST 2019
While the aforementioned two wineries have come to be regarded as Riesling standard bearers, others are following suit. The variety is now produced on a much wider scale. It’s presently grown throughout the central and northern Okanagan, and beyond, including in the Similkameen Valley, as well as in Kamloops and Lillooet. Plantings are also moving to higher elevations, as in Culmina’s Margaret’s Bench near Oliver, and Okanagan Crush Pad’s Garnet Valley near Summerland. The spinoff from Tantalus’ success is also rubbing off on other southeast Kelowna and Mission district wineries. A number of neighbours are helping to solidify Riesling’s reputation as a variety particularly well suited to the central Okanagan. They include nearby Kitsch Wines, Sperling, CedarCreek, St Hubertus and Summerhill, among others. Newcomer Phantom Creek Estates also sourced its inaugural 2017 Riesling from a vineyard adjacent to Tantalus. There are signs of winemakers embracing the shift towards drier styles — also seen in Germany with the growing popularity of more Trocken wines. However, much in the way that Riesling’s revolution has been more of an infiltration, the change has been gradual. For the most part, it’s come thanks to the influx of a younger generation of winemakers, many of whom earned their Riesling stripes elsewhere. Many producers are increasingly moving towards a drier Riesling — though not necessarily to a bone-dry style — while retaining their more off-dry offerings. The much-vaunted revolution still might not quite have happened in BC, at least not yet. But it may well be right around the corner. ×
TIME TO CONNECT! by Joanne Will
Back in 1851, nearly nine in 10 Canadians lived in rural areas. By 1921, more than 50 percent were still rural-dwellers, and agriculture was the most common occupation, accounting for one third of all jobs. Since then, due to many technological advances and changes in the structure of our economy, the rural population has steadily declined. Today, four out of five of us are urbanites; less than 20 percent still live in the countryside. Less than two percent are involved in jobs related to agriculture, and fewer than one percent are farm operators. Since most food production happens outside of metropolitan areas, the majority of us are not only physically separated from the origins of our meals, we’re also emotionally and intellectually disconnected from the roots of our sustenance. As a farmer’s stepdaughter who grew up in a farming community, I’ll admit to a (former) feeling of exclusion from the crowd of disconnected eaters. Until recently, that is. A drive through the miles of banana plantations in rural Costa Rica jolted me to realize that I had never once, while holding one of the hundreds of bananas consumed in my lifetime, given so much as a fleeting thought to its origin. I had never considered the production, the workers, the environmental impacts, let alone the journey to my local grocery store — until I witnessed a traffic jam of semi-trucks and enormous container ships waiting to be loaded with bananas at the Caribbean Port of Limón. Of the pennies I pay for one piece of fruit, how much actually goes to the farmer? I had no clue. Advances in technology, new seed varieties, pesticides and fertilizers have led to increased agricultural yields, and mean that we don’t all need to be out on the land (or seas) producing food as we once did. As a result, under the current industrial system, relative-
ly few of us are required to harvest enough food to feed many. Food has also become relatively cheap to buy. This year, Food Freedom Day was February 9. That’s the point in the annual calendar when, according to the Canadian Federation of Agriculture, a household of average income will have earned enough to pay their grocery bills for a whole year. Accounting for around just 10 percent of our disposable income, Canadians enjoy some of the least expensive food in the world. (By contrast, several African countries spend well over 40 percent of their disposable income on food.) Now that we in developed countries aren’t all preoccupied with the task of producing food, many of us have found time to obsess over, tweet about and Instagram our dinner plates, and rave about superstar chefs and our favourite restaurants. But another side effect of this disconnect from the land is that we’re largely ignorant of the processes, the farming and farmers that actually produce the food for our plates. We’re largely unaware of our role in perpetuating the status quo of the prevailing food system (one example: studies show that if you grow the food you eat, you’re less likely to waste it). If we don’t know anything about our food system, how can we help fix what’s broken? “Eating is an agricultural act,” said American farmer, activist and writer Wendell Berry in his essay “The Pleasures of Eating,” from his book of essays What Are People For? Each bite is a vote of support, for the kind of food and food system you want. But if you’re not informed, how can you cast a wise ballot? JULY/AUGUST 2019 25
Another little-known fact of factory food production is that the flour most of us eat today is stripped of all the good stuff — such as the germ and bran. It’s many times removed from the nutritious flour our great-grandparents ate. If you knew this, maybe you’d make an effort to seek out bread made with freshly milled, whole-grain organic flour, such as the loaves at Prairie Boy Bread in Toronto, or Wildfire Bakery in Victoria, BC. Or choose Grainstorm Heritage Baking pancake, muffin and cookie mixes available in Quebec and Ontario grocery stores, and also online. WITHOUT A CONNECTION TO FOOD PRODUCTION, IT CAN BE TOUGH, IF NOT IMPOSSIBLE, TO KNOW ALL OF THIS. So, how in a city
To care about something, you need to understand it. To understand it, you need to learn about it. Why should you care and learn about the plight of Canadian food producers? For one, they’re tending a huge portion of the land across our great nation, which affects the climate (a large percentage of greenhouse gas emissions come from agriculture) — as well as your health, via the nutritiousness of your food, and the quality of the air, soil and water that surround you. Glyphosate is but one example; we’ve heard a lot about this herbicide recently in the news. When I was growing up, glyphosate (a.k.a., Roundup) was used to kill weeds in the fields, before seeding. These days, many don’t know that it’s also frequently used to kill mature wheat and lentil (pulse) plants just before harvest, so that rather than the traditional method of swathing (cutting) the crop first, farmers can simply straight-combine grains and pulses. This saves time and labour. And yes, some studies and regulatory bodies say glyphosate is safe in certain levels — but, even so, maybe you just don’t want any of it used on the food you eat. But before making that decision, first you’d have to know that it is being used at all, and the associated risks. If it turns out you’re not happy with the idea, you can then take action by choosing to buy organic instead of conventional grains or pulses. 26 JULY/AUGUST 2019
can you gain a connection to the source of your food? The web, of course, is always a source of information if you want to sit down and research. But for something more tangible, visit an artisanal baker, and find out firsthand just why freshly milled flour is different, and where it comes from. In the Vancouver area, you could make a trip to the Bowen Island salmon hatchery to learn about the wild salmon on your dinner plate. Even a visit to an urban brewery, cider mill or meadery can help connect us with the story of the raw ingredients and processes that go into making some of our favourite beverages. A farmers’ market is another place to gain knowledge and connection, but you can also seek out the smaller or hobby farms that surround some metropolitan areas. They often hold open farm weekends. Following the learning that you, as a consumer, undertake, and the votes you cast with your food dollars and food choices, you may be relieved to hear that, on the other side of the fence, many farmers are paying attention. “There’s quite a feeling among those of us in agriculture that we have to be more connected to the consumers,” says my stepfather, Gord Will, who is retiring this year after farming grain, pulse and oilseed crops for over 50 years in southern Saskatchewan. “We talk, and we hear more and more about that. Because ultimately the consumer is who we must listen to, rather than shutting our ears and saying they don’t know anything. There was a feeling for a while of ‘well, we grow the food, and that’s the end of the story.’ But if among consumers there was, for example, a market for other crops, such as those without chemical sprays, farmers would be pretty quick to respond.” He says the additional cost to the consumer, for example, for lentils and wheat that are swathed rather than sprayed, would be pennies. “Farmers are very conscious of better markets. If there was a better market that paid more because of consumer demand, they’d jump on it pretty quick. Grass-fed beef is an example. Rather than being fattened on grain in feedlots, you have beef raised on grass. And that’s a niche market that has grown.” ×
BUYING GUIDE
All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to find the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new. Afterall, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and will likely vary from province to province. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, so check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Michelle Bouffard, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Tim Pawsey, Michaela Morris and Jonathan Smithe. *Available through private import and online wine clubs
SPARKLING RUGGERI VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE EXTRA BRUT SALTER NV, VENETO, ITALY ($28)
Pretty floral notes with aromas and flavours of white peach and pear, savoury and salty followed by loads of mineral and lime with a bright, long, lingering finish. A great new addition to the lineup of one of Italy’s finest sparkling wine producers. (GB) LUIGI BOSCA BRUT NATURE, ARGENTINA ($30)
Well-made traditional method wine, this sparkler yields a fine stream of persistent bubbles with a good mousse. Nicely textured, a generous mouthfeel with some leesy notes, citrus and good acidity. (TP) TOWNSHIP 7 SEVEN STARS POLARIS 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($36)
Traditional method Blanc de Blanc, 100% Chardonnay. A stream of fine bubbles and gentle mousse, aromas of brioche and orchard fruits followed by a well-structured palate of citrus, green apple and stone fruit, with generous but still lean mouthfeel underpinned by excellent acidity through a persistent finish. (TP)
RUGGERI L’EXTRA BRUT MILLESIMATO SPUMANTE EXTRA BRUT 2017, VENETO, ITALY ($38)
Bright, balanced, delicate and expressive with apple, white peach, pear and mandarin aromas that also carry through on the palate with poached pear, refined bubbles, balanced acidity and a lifted, elegant finish. Ideal as an aperitif on its own or with seafood, fried appetizers, shellfish and delicately prepared white meats. (GB) TOWNSHIP 7 SEVEN STARS EQUINOX 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($49)
A very stylish single vineyard Traditional Method sparkling 100% Pinot Noir, sourced from long established Sperling Vineyards. Pretty, medium salmon in the glass, fine bubbles and a pleasing mousse. Citrus, red berry and some brioche notes precede a lively, balanced and well-textured palate; highlighted by delicate strawberry and cranberry notes supported by fresh acidity through the finish. (TP) REVI BRUT SPARKLING TRENTO DOC 2014, TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE, ITALY ($50)
Alluring aromas with a great balance between floral, fruity and nutty notes. Apple, citrus, fresh herbs, hazelnut and bracing acidity are all elegantly
combined with finesse and complexity, penetrating intensity and a long, clean dry finish. A blend of 75% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Noir. (GB) REVI SPARKLING TRENTO DOC ROSÉ 2014, TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE, ITALY ($55)
Mouth-watering, fresh and elegant with raspberry, cherry, wildberry, spice, hazelnut and lightly bready aromas and flavours with a fine, creamy texture and a lively, persistent finish. 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. Go outside the box and enjoy with lamb kebabs and shrimp pakoras. (GB)
WHITE $20 AND UNDER
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA MAYHEM PINOT GRIS 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($16)
A new collaboration between Meyer family members yields excellent value wines sourced from prime sites. Lifted aromas of orchard fruit and citrus followed by a crisp palate of pear and green apple, with a little extra body from judicious neutral oak. (TP) JULY/AUGUST 2019 27
BUYING GUIDE GREECE
50TH PARALLEL PINOT GRIS 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($20)
Lifted notes of orchard and stone fruits followed by a juicy fresh nectarine and quince-toned palate. A good balance of fruit and acidity through a lengthy finish. (TP) ARROWLEAF CELLARS BACCHUS 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($20)
Half estate-grown old vines, with remaining fruit from southeast Kelowna. Pronounced grapefruit aromas with floral and tropical notes before a clean, fresh citrus-toned palate through a clean, quite dry finish. (TP)
The winemakers intend this as a refined Retsina: they took the edge off the pine nose to tame it down. Now smells a bit like a Viognier (peaches and apricots) matured in a pine barrel. Full-bodied on the palate, tasting of peach preserves with lemon and more pine flavour. Pair with a Greek salad with plenty of fresh oregano and a good baguette. Also would be a good palate-cleansing accompaniment to an olive oil tasting. Drink now. (RL) ITALY DE ANGELIS FALERIO 2018, MARCHE ($19)
Clear medium-deep gold. Aromas of peaches, flowers, plums, a bit of citrus and a light touch of oak. Full-bodied, tasting of pineapple, apple and more peach with lemony acidity. A value wine, perfect with roast chicken on Sunday. Will improve with another year. (RL)* FRANCE
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
KECHRIBARI RETSINA NV ($12/500 ML)
CHILE CORNELLANA CHARDONNAY RESERVE 2017, CACHAPOAL VALLEY ($11)
$20.01 TO $35
Brilliant mouth-watering blend of Trebbiano, Pecorino and Passerina with lovely stone fruit and zesty citrus, nice creaminess in the mid-palate with a saliva-generating chalky, salty, minerally finish. Amazing with grilled prawns and summer salads, but also great on its own on the patio. Over delivers on price-quality ratio. (GB)
RECOMMENDED
AUSTRALIA STELLA BELLA CHARDONNAY 2016, MARGARET RIVER ($30)
Slightly reductive nose of lemon and apple; medium-bodied, dry, elegant, beautifully balanced, lemony-green apple and white peach flavour with a long, fresh finish. (TA) CANADA
BLUE GROUSE ESTATE QUILL PINOT GRIS 2018, COWICHAN VALLEY ($22)
From two contrasting Cowichan Valley sites, with extended lees contact to achieve added texture. Orchard and stone fruit on top precede a fresh entry with subtle apricot, tropical and citrus notes wrapped in crisp acidity. (TP) SPEARHEAD WINERY PINOT GRIS 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($22)
Floral and orchard fruit aromas, followed by pear and citrus with tropical hints, generous and rounded with a lingering citrus close. (TP)
LAVAU 2016, AC CÔTES DU RHÔNE ($19)
White wines from the Rhone are useful as food wines. Like most such wines, this one is a blend of several grape varieties, in this case mostly Viognier and Grenache Blanc. The blend creates complex aromas and flavours that are versatile with a range of foods. Medium gold in colour, this smells of canned peaches, banana and pineapple with a hint of hazelnut. Full-bodied, tasting of apricot with more of that nutty bitterness on the finish. One of the few wines that actually complements creamy cheeses like Brie. (RL) 28 JULY/AUGUST 2019
ITALY TENUTA SANT’ANNA CHARDONNAY 2018, VENETO ($19)
Fresh and varietally correct without being formulaic, the wine shows bright apple and a touch of citrus, well integrated and balanced with a clean finish. A very good value and a better option than the abundance of undrinkable sugar-laden soda-pop wines served at too many banquets and other crowd-gathering events. (GB)
TERRAVISTA VINEYARDS ALBARIÑO 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($25)
70% Naramata fruit with the balance from Black Sage Road. Lifted orchard floral and stone fruit notes. Firm, bright, juicy entry driven by keen acidity, stony mineral and lingering citrus with some zest through the close. (TP)
TERRAVISTA VINEYARDS FANDANGO 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($25)
A blend of mainly Albariño (63%) and Verdejo from Naramata Bench. Forward
stone fruit and tropical notes followed by vibrant layers of bright citrus and peach, a hint of clover and juicy acidity throughout the zesty end. (TP)
barnyard bouquet of apple with a spicy oak note. It’s full-bodied, dry, with apple and toasty flavours accentuated by lemony acidity giving the wine a long, succulent finish. (TA)
SPEARHEAD WINERY WHITE PINOT NOIR 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($25)
Winemaker Grant Stanley admits he’s “completely besotted about Pinot,” hence this intriguing wine, for which he uses minimal skin contact to achieve absolute clarity. Upfront orchard and citrus notes with a hint of cherry, pear and a touch of mineral on the palate, somewhat reminiscent of Chardonnay. (TP) FRANCE CLOS BELLANE CÔTES DU RHÔNE VALRÉAS BLANC 2018 ($25)
At first, the wine charms you with its generosity of fruit and opulence. Then the firm and compact structure on the finish, reminiscent of the chalky texture found in some Champagne, surprises and leaves you wanting more. Pretty and precise aromas of honey, Meyer lemon, wax and a hint of stone fruit lingers and finishes on a pleasant saline note. Profound and complex. Beautiful match with pan-seared scallops. (MB)
RECOMMENDED FRANCE DOMAINE DE L’AMAUVE 2017, AOC CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES ($23)
Faint nose in which one can detect almost all of the citrus fruits. Medium-bodied with good acidity and more flavour than the eye and the nose predict: more citrus, pineapple, apple. Will last and perhaps improve with another year or two. (RL) DAMPT FRÈRES PETIT CHABLIS VIEILLES VIGNES 2015 ($24)
Everyone should have a bottle of Chablis at all time in their fridge. Or in this case, Petit Chablis. It fits so many occasions, especially in the summer. Light body with thirst-quenching acidity and vibrant notes of green apple and lime with a touch of wet stone on the finish. A great match with oysters, salad made from fresh garden vegetables or simply alone as an aperitif. (MB)
PAUL SAPIN 2015, AOP POUILLY-FUISSÉ ($28)
Clear pale gold. Fairly intense nose of nuts, apples, rhubarb, a bit of celeriac. Light-bodied with high acidity, tasting of apple and oak. Drink now. (RL)* GERMANY DÖNNHOFF TROCKEN RIESLING 2016, NAHE ($27)
Known as the “Master” of the Nahe region, Dönnhoff here offers an outstanding Riesling at a very good price where finesse and power are in symbiosis. Medium body with brisk acidity and pure flavours of lime sorbet and white nectarine dance on the palate and finish with mineral notes that lingers. A natural with sushi and a great pairing with salmon or tuna tartare. (MB)
GEORGIA
Made in the ancient method of fermentation in terracotta amphorae (called Qvevri) buried in the earth. Bottle is capped with an unnecessary and inconvenient wax coating. Clear amber colour. Medium-intensity nose of bruised apples and a bit of sherry. Full-bodied, dry, somewhat tannic, tasting of ripe apricots and toasted hazelnuts. “Recommended” more as a nod to history than as an attractive wine — this won’t appeal to most palates. You could try it with sardines or Greek dolmades, to cut the oil. (RL)
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FRANCE
Bright, yellow straw in colour, this full-bodied Chardonnay has an earthy,
ROSÉ S DE LA SABLETTE CÔTES DE PROVENCE ROSÉ 2018, FRANCE ($16)
Light with a slight spritz on the palate that is rather enjoyable. Juicy notes of pink grapefruit and sour cherries with bright acid. Simple but well-made and refreshing. The perfect rosé to drink on a hot summer afternoon when visiting with friends on a terrace. The 12.5% is an added bonus. (MB) VANESSA VINEYARDS ROSÉ 2018, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($22)
Pretty pale salmon orange in the glass, this blend of 67% Syrah with 33% Merlot leans more towards Provence. Orchard fruits and tropical hints up front. Citrus and strawberry hints on the palate with subtle red apple and strawberry through the juicy end. (TP)
VAZISUBANI RKATSITELI 2016 ($21)
UNITED STATES RODNEY STRONG SONOMA COUNTY CHARDONNAY 2016, CALIFORNIA ($23)
Quench (then Tidings), in 2012. It has improved with age and is still drinking well, although it probably peaked a few years ago and is now on its last legs. Clear old gold color. Nose of apple pie topped with sweet sherry custard. A little volatile acidity betrays its age. Tastes of bruised apple drizzled with lemon. Drink up. (RL)*
LAMBLIN & FILS CHABLIS 2004, GRAND CRU LES CLOS ($41)
One of the first wines I reviewed for
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BLUE GROUSE ESTATE QUILL ROSÉ 2018, COWICHAN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($22)
100% Gamay Noir with extended skin and lees contact yields pale salmon in the glass. Lifted crushed red berry aromas followed by vibrant acidity and lingering zesty notes with a touch of strawberry and pink grapefruit. (TP) DOMAINE DE LA MORDORÉE LA DAME ROUSSE 2017, TAVEL, FRANCE ($31)
A long time favourite and despite the solar vintage, the 2017 does not disappoint. While the wine is full-bodied and rich, the bright notes of rhubarb, wild strawberries and orange peel gives freshness to a wine that is rather low in acid. Definitely meant to enjoy with food. Steak tartare is just perfect to make La Dame Rousse sing. (MB) JULY/AUGUST 2019 29
BUYING GUIDE RED
tar; medium to full-bodied, dry, Northern Rhône style; firmly structured with lively acidity. (TA)
$20 AND UNDER
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
SPAIN
ARGENTINA TRAPICHE BROQUEL MALBEC 2016, UCO VALLEY ($17)
Forward black fruit with spicy hints before a plush and plummy mouth-filling palate with a distinct, savoury streak. Excellent value. (TP) LA MASCOTA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017, MENDOZA ($17)
Good value Cabernet, with red and black berry and tea notes up front. Good varietal character, with hints of cassis and vanilla, well-managed oak, well-integrated tannins and a solid finish. (TP) FINCA LA LINDA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017, MENDOZA ($20)
Very approachable but gently polished. Medium-bodied with a touch of smokiness, easy tannins and juicy acidity. (TP) AUSTRALIA JIP JIP ROCKS SHIRAZ 2017, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($17)
Minerally, spicy, creamy, sandalwood nose of blackberries and herbal notes; medium-bodied, dry and fruity with lively acidity and a firm tannic finish. (TA) CHILE VIÑA LEYDA CANELO SINGLE VINEYARD SYRAH 2015, LEYDA VALLEY ($20)
Dense purple colour; rich, herbal, blackcurrant nose with a touch of smoke and 30 JULY/AUGUST 2019
BODEGAS NAVAJAS CRIANZA 2015, RIOJA ($15)
This Tempranillo and Mazuelo blend from Spain’s Rioja region is deep ruby in colour with a spicy nose of sandalwood, strawberry and cherry compote with evident oak notes. It’s medium-bodied, dry, with cherry and red plum flavours, balancing acidity and a note of cloves on the finish. It’s got admirable length. (TA) SOUTH AFRICA THE RACONTEUR SYRAH 2017, SWARTLAND ($15)
Here’s a flavourful South African red that has a real story to tell. The Raconteur Syrah 2017 is grown in Swartland, a trending wine region 50 kilometers north of Cape Town. Deep ruby in colour, this bargain-priced Syrah, dense purple in colour, offers a savoury-herbal nose of black fruits. It’s full-bodied, dry, juicy and fruity with the flavour of black plums carried on lively acidity. (TA)
RECOMMENDED HUNGARY SZEKSZÁRDI KEKFRANKOS 2016 ($11)
From Kekfrankos grapes, known as Blaufränkish in Austria. Clear, very pale Grenadine red. Fairly intense nose, reminiscent of Pinot Noir but tilting to raspberry cordial. Light-bodied with
high acidity and thin flavours of just-ripe berries: cranberry and raspberry. I enjoyed this with a cheese pizza with fresh rosemary. After all, what do you expect for 11 bucks? Drink now. (RL)
$20.01 TO $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA FINCA DECERO MALBEC 2016, AGRELO ($25)
An exceptional wine from one of Mendoza’s more meticulous producers at 1,150 m above sea level. Hand harvested and basket pressed with minimal handling. Judicious oak program with mix of new and used French oak. Vibrant red berry and floral notes with a plush dark cherry entry. Structured, mineral hints, wrapped in juicy acidity, rounded, integrated tannins and a lingering spicy finish. A standout. (TP) AUSTRALIA SHOTTESBROOKE RESERVE ELIZA SHIRAZ 2012, MCLAREN VALE ($28)
Opaquely deep purple. A “black” wine: aromas of black pepper, black cherry and black liquorice. Medium tannins and acidity. Fruit now starting to fade but still a bomb. Drink now. Screams for BBQ. (RL)* THE LANE SINGLE VINEYARD BLOCK 14 BASKET PRESS SHIRAZ 2016, ADELAIDE HILLS ($30)
Opaque purple in colour with a cedary, spicy, blackberry nose with herbal notes. Full-bodied, dry and savoury, richly extracted, firmly structured blackberry and dried herb flavours. (TA)
CANADA ARROWLEAF CELLARS PINOT NOIR 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($23)
From 5 sites in West Kelowna and in Lake Country, all within sight of Okanagan Lake. Aged on lees in neutral French oak. Pretty garnet colour in the glass; cherry, strawberry and earthy aromas followed by a medium-bodied palate with dark cherry and mushroom hints over a pleasing savoury edge and well-integrated, approachable tannins. (TP) MAYHEM CABERNET FRANC 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($26)
100% Cabernet Franc sourced from Naramata Bench. Upfront red fruit and spicy hints before a plush, medium- to full-bodied palate of dark plum, mulberry and blackberry, with approachable tannins, solid mouthfeel and a streak of mineral through the finish. (TP) SPEARHEAD WINERY COYOTE PINOT NOIR 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($33)
From Coyote Vineyard in West Kelowna, established by winemaker Grant and Annabel Stanley in 2005. Clone 115, hand harvested with 13 months in 25% new French oak. Forward notes of vibrant red berries, vanilla hints and herbs before a lush but very focused palate of raspberry and cherry notes through a lengthy, savoury and herb-toned finish. (TP) SPEARHEAD WINERY GOLDEN RETREAT PINOT NOIR 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($33)
FRANCE DUBOEUF BEAUJOLAIS NOUVEAU 2018 ($24)
Tasted in February, when no longer “Nouveau.” Deeply coloured pinkish-purple wine comes in a colourful flower-decorated bottle. Big nose of sweet hard strawberry candies, banana and sweet tea. On the palate, tastes like fruity (raspberry, strawberry) tea, invites quaffing. Serve cool, drink soon. (RL) DOMAINE LA RÉMÉJEANNE LES CHÈVREFEUILLES 2016, CÔTES DU RHÔNE ($24)
70% Syrah, 10% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Carignan, 5% Marselan. I am rarely a big fan of Syrah-dominated blends in the Southern Rhône as the grapes tend to suffer from intense heat. But this is an exception. Impressive freshness with lifted notes of plum, black liquorice and garrigue with a hint of violet, supported by polished tannins and lively acidity. Easy to drink yet with a complexity that lingers in the finish. Burger please! (MB) DOMAINE BERSAN IRANCY PINOT NOIR 2015, BURGUNDY ($25)
Medium ruby in colour with a lightly spicy nose of red plums; medium-bodied, red plum and raspberry flavours with a note of rose petals. Firmly structured with an earthy finish. (TA) LA FERME DU MONT JUGUNDA GIGONDAS 2017 ($33)
Sourced from Golden Retreat Vineyard, Summerland. Aromas of dark berries and earthy notes precede a bright fruit entry driven by juicy acidity with harmonious savoury, spice and earthy notes, wrapped in well-integrated tannins through a persistent, spicy end. (TP) CHILE CORNELLANA GRAN RESERVA CABERNET FRANC 2014, CACHAPOAL VALLEY ($25)
Opaquely deep garnet with a purplish edge. Vivid nose of black liquorice and varnish overlaying blackberry and herbal notes typical of Cab Franc. Full-bodied with decent acidity and medium tannins; fruit-forward, tasting of blackberry and black cherry. Drink now. (RL)*
Incredibly impressed by this wine but this is no surprise. Stéphane Vedeau knows how to make an elegant wine even in a hot vintage like 2017. Grenache at its best with a broad yet precise palate, profound notes of red plum, garrigue and a minerality that lingers. Beautiful management of tannins. An outstanding value. Buy one now, drink with a piece of grilled lamb and put as much in your cellar as you can. This will be shining even more in 6 to 9 years from now. (MB) CHÂTEAU CANTENAC 2014, BORDEAUX ($35)
Deep ruby in colour; spicy, cedary, blackcurrant bouquet. Medium-bodied, dry, fruity, firmly structured, red and blackcurrant flavours with evident tannins. Hold 5 to 6 years. (TA)
ITALY AZELIA LANGHE NEBBIOLO 2015, PIEDMONT ($27)
While the Barolo from this estate offers great pleasure after many years in the cellar, the Nebbiolo charms immediately. Firm tannins with fresh acid and touch of rusticity that charms rather than gets in the way. Seductive aromas of tar, roses and black liquorice with a hint of orange rind on the moderate finish. A wine that haunts the soul and at a good price. Rabbit, please! (MB) PODERE LA REGOLA LA REGOLA 2011, TUSCANY ($29)
A cedary, lightly smoky nose of ripe cherries. Medium- to full-bodied, dry, cherry flavour corseted with tannins currently masking fruit (but it’s there in spades). Hold 4 to 5 years. (TA) ROMANIA DORVENA FETEASCĂ NEAGRĂ 2015, PÂNCOTA ($35)
According to the producer, there are records of the Fetească Neagră grape variety existing in Romania over 2,000 years ago. A lovely intriguing nose filled with floral notes, mint, tart red fruit and fresh herbs with more of the same on the palate. Elegant silky tannins and a long, juicy mineral finish. Delicious, interesting and balanced. Possesses all kinds of possibilities for gastronomic experimentation (try with anything and everything). (GB) SPAIN ALEJANDRO FERNÁNDEZ DEHESA LA GRANJA 2011, CASTILLA Y LEÓN ($21)
Rich notes of black plum, dark cherries and cassis with pleasant tertiary aromas of tobacco, cedar and leather that mingle with integrated notes of vanilla. Full body with fresh acid and elegant if firm tannins. Made for red meat. Hanger steak on the grill would be my pick. (MB) ALFAR VENDIMIA VALDELACIERVA 2012, DOC RIOJA ($33)
Clear, deep, young-looking purple despite its age. Nose of smoky vanilla oak and raspberry jam. Medium-bodied with adequate acidity and tannins but the sour cherry fruit is fading. Drink up. (RL)* JULY/AUGUST 2019 31
BUYING GUIDE UNITED STATES HESS SELECT COLLECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, CALIFORNIA NORTH COAST ($25)
Cedary, plum and currant nose. Mediumto full-bodied, richly extracted, sweet blackcurrant and plum flavours. Beautifully balanced with well-integrated oak. A delicious wine. (TA)
RECOMMENDED
cherry, mulberry and some earthy hints, layered with mineral and pleasing savoury notes through a lengthy close. (TP) RED ROOSTER RARE BIRD SERIES PINOT NOIR 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($45)
Medium ruby colour. Lightly cedary, cherry and raspberry bouquet with oak spice. Medium-bodied, dry, black raspberry flavour; well-balanced and true. Nicely structured with a tannic lift on the finish. Very Burgundian in style. (TA) FRANCE
GEORGIA VAZISUBANI SAPERAVI 2016 ($22)
Medium-intensity nose of black cherry and some acrid floral aromas. High acidity, bitter tannins, cherry and blackcurrant fruit that tastes fresh but not particularly pleasant. Buy a bottle out of curiosity and a sense of adventure, but don’t expect a great wine. (RL) ITALY TENUTA SANT’ANNA CABERNET FRANC 2017, VENETO ($22)
Fresh vinous and herbal aromas and flavours. Vibrant, balanced, appealing and easy drinking with silky tannins and a juicy finish. A nice match with grilled meats and game birds. (GB)
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
CLOS DE L’ORATOIRE DES PAPES 2016, CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE ($51)
One of the best vintages I’ve had from this label, if not the best. An impressive wine where power and finesse meet — not an easy task in this region. Deep yet a bit austere with aromas of garrigue, plum and black olives underlined with a pleasing touch of reductive notes. Broad and elegant tannins with pleasant perception of freshness from the small percentage of stem inclusion. A wine to buy for your cellar. Will be exceptional in 7 to 10 years. (MB) CHATEAU GAZIN 2010, AC POMEROL ($120)
Nose of raisins, dates, vanilla, cedar and caramel. A classy Claret, it is a poster child for the judicious use of oak in a great year. Full-bodied, tasting of Christmas cake with dates, raisins and a dash of brandy. Lots of soft tannins left but ready now, will coast a few more years. (RL)
CANADA ITALY SPEARHEAD WINERY PINOT NOIR CUVÉE 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($38)
Upfront aromas of dark berry fruit with some herbal hints. Floral layers of violet, 32 JULY/AUGUST 2019
TOMMASI IL SESTANTE 2010, DOCG AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA ($42)
Pour carefully or decant. Opaquely deep
garnet. Medium nose of black cherry, raisins, maple syrup, black liquorice, a bit of dust. Full-bodied, densely flavoured with ripe cherries, hot alcohol and a long Portlike finish. Enjoyable with an espresso. Drink now. (RL) MADONNA DELLE GRAZIE AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE BAUCCIO 2013, BASILICATA ($42)
A fabulously elegant and balanced wine combining florality, bright fruit, spice, freshness and minerality with great integration, complexity, concentration, refined tannins and a long, fresh finish. Hits all the right notes. This small family-owned producer is definitely one to seek out and is fast becoming a benchmark for the area. (GB) CA’ LA BIONDA AMARONE 2015, DOCG DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO ($44)
Opaquely deep garnet. Nose reminiscent of Armagnac: stewed fruits with a dark caramel sauce. In perfect balance now, the acidity is fresh and so is the cherry and raspberry fruit, ending on a bitter almond finish. Will last another few years. (RL)* MACCARIO DRINGENBERG BRAE ROSSESE DI DOLCEACQUA 2018, LIGURIA ($46)
Rossese di Dolceacqua is another of Italy’s native grape varieties that more wine lovers need to discover. The resulting wine has the ability to take on the characteristics of the specific vineyard site in which the grapes are grown, but similarities can be drawn to both Gamay and cool climate Syrah. Brae is a cru located at an elevation of 480 metres and is delicate and floral with bright, crunchy red fruit and supple nimble tannins. Fresh and minerally with a hint of pepper. Best served slightly chilled and a great match with Indian and Middle Eastern cuisine. (GB)
LA SPINONA SORÌ GEPIN BAROLO 2011, PIEDMONT ($69)
Cedary, spicy, lightly floral, liquorice and dried cherries on the nose with herbal floral top notes. Medium- to full-bodied, dry, elegant, firmly structured with evident but ripe tannins. Drinking well now. (TA)
BEFORE & AFTER DINNER PELLER ESTATES PRIVATE RESERVE VIDAL ICEWINE 2017, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($24/200 ML)
This is one of the best Vidal Icewines I’ve tasted from the 2017 vintage. Old gold in colour, it has a nose of mangoes and honey. It’s medium- to full-bodied, rich and unctuous on the palate with honeyed tropical fruit flavours well-balanced with fresh, lemony acidity. (TA) TIO PEPE FINO EN RAMA, SPAIN ($26)
Aromas of yeast, dried pear and the umami of salty salami. Light-bodied, tasting of ripe apple and a certain grapey-ness that could deceive you into tasting sweetness, nicely balanced with a bit of almond bitterness. The “En Rama” version, in my opinion, is different, but not necessarily better. (RL) LEFT FIELD BREWERY CANNONBALL HELLES LAGER, ONTARIO ($3/500 ML)
Cannonball is an easy-drinking lager that’s all about the crackery malt. A brilliant, medium gold, clear brew with aromas of toasted saltine crackers, a touch of floral hops and a clean yeast character. Crisp, clean and refreshing, there’s a refreshing, mild bitterness on the sip that dries out the finish nicely. A sure-fire warm weather staple for Toronto’s East Enders. (TL) BELLWOODS BREWERY BELLWEISER PILSNER, ONTARIO ($5/500 ML)
On the nose, soft crackers and pizza dough malt with light floral hops. Light crackery malt and doughy baguette, with faint lemongrass and floral hop notes on the tongue. With mild bitterness, it has a soft round malty finish that dries out slightly. It’s a light-bodied lager with me-
dium-to-high carbonation and a gentle malt character. (CL) AMSTERDAM BREWERY DOWNTOWN BROWN, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)
This toasty, nutty brown ale begs to be sipped with sizzling pork and beef hot off the barbeque. The English brown ale’s clean, crisp body and easy drinkability will cleanse the palate after each rich bite, while its nutty flavours will sync up with the caramelized notes of your carefully ‘cued meats. (CL) BEAU’S ALL NATURAL BREWING COMPANY BEAU’S RADLER, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)
Who needs a mimosa when you can buy a fresh can of this organic Radler? Pour this baby pink bubbly into Champagne glasses and serve with eggs benny. The Radler has a base of fluffy wheat and crackery pilsner malt mixed with apple, red grapefruit and elderberry juice. Tart, crisp and safe to drink more, as it’s only 2.5% ABV. (CL) HENDERSON BREWING CO. UPA, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)
This IPA is smooth and fruity with a lightly bread malt backbone and bright, juicy fruitiness. Cantaloupe and lychee mark the fresh, heady nose of this burnt-orange brew. With a medium body and lingering bitterness, it’s an easy-drinking all-day IPA made even better by its luscious tropical fruit notes. (TL) SAWDUST CITY BREWING GATEWAY KÖLSCH, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)
This award-winning Kölsch is a good way to ease into summer. Fresh grain marks the nose with gentle floral and light pome fruit flavours balancing this mellow sipper out. Pair it with a farmer’s platter full of fresh cheeses and charcuterie, or a joint and a hammock. (CL) LONGSLICE BREWING ALOHA FRIDAY HIBISCUS PALE ALE, ONTARIO ($3/355 ML)
Pouring a blush pink, this pale ale gushes with floral and tropical fruit aromas and flavours. Dry, bubbly and easy drinking, Aloha begs to be paired with your favourite salads or fresh bowls all summer long. (CL) FOLLY BREWING HEIST SOUR PALE ALE, ONTARIO ($4/473 ML)
This pale ale is soured with lactobacillus
for a kefir-like tangy goodness. Then it’s dry hopped, giving it aromas of fresh orange peel and lemons. Hazy, tangy and bubbly, it’s a great replacement for mimosas at your next brunch. (CL) MUDDY YORK BREWING SWITCHBOARD SESSION IPA, ONTARIO ($4/355 ML)
Packaged in the cutest purple can, this session IPA is playful from the outside in. Aromas of peach, mango, pineapple and melon swirl from the nose and the sip carries those flavours without the bitter astringency of some session IPAs. At 4.9% ABV, it’s the perfect summer sipper to stock in your cooler. (CL) LITTLE BEASTS BREWING WAHEELA, ONTARIO ($6/500 ML)
Pouring a warm light gold with a hazy hue, this New England IPA is made with lactose, a creamy, unfermentable milk sugar. Aromas of lemon peel, ripe mango and pineapple leap out of the glass followed by a sip of mango and marshmallow-like sweetness in the centre, before giving way to a low juniper-like bitterness. Super juicy. (CL) BENCH BREWING COMPANY STRAWBERRY GROVE, ONTARIO ($8/500 ML)
Nestled on an estate in the heart of Ontario’s wine country, Bench Brewing Company’s focus on expressing the unique terroir of the Twenty Valley region where they’re situated is easy to taste in this ale. Fermented with whole strawberries from neighbouring Tigchelaar Berry Farms, the ale has aromas of fresh strawberry, earth and a whisper of lemon. Serve with a strawberry and goat cheese salad. (CL) MERIT BREWING FASHIONABLY LATE, ONTARIO ($10)
Kveik ales are a Norwegian farmhouse style made with a unique wild yeast strain. This version mixes in a barnyard Brettanomyces yeast and infuses spent gin botanicals from Ontario’s Willibald Gin Distillery. Farm fresh aromas erupt from the glass with notes of mango and pineapple marking the loose yellow foam cap. The medium body sparkles with small, fine carbonation and on the sip, Campari-like bitterness, orange rind and apricot come to the fore with an herbaceously bitter finale. (CL) JULY/AUGUST 2019 33
AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER
FIRST TASTE DO YOU REMEMBER THE VERY FIRST WINE YOU EVER TASTED? I’d wager
a dime to a doughnut that it was on the sweet side and I’d hazard a guess that it was either Baby Duck, Mateus Rosé or Blue Nun. If you’re Jewish, your first experience with wine was probably at the Seder table — a glass of Manischewitz or some similar kosher confection made from the Concord grape. My first experience with wine was also sweet and it got me into a whole lot of trouble. I was 14 years old and was a boarder at Epsom College, a minor public school in Surrey, England, where doctors sent their sons in the hope that their progeny would follow in their footsteps. (Didn’t work for me.) I don’t recall how my friend and co-conspirator Michael Woolley and I came into possession of a half bottle of Barton & Guestier Sauternes, but we secreted it onto the cricket field one hot summer’s day. Concealed in the long grass near the boundary, Woolley had opened it with the corkscrew on his Swiss Army knife. We took turns passing it back and forth, swigging directly from the bottle. Since there were some 500 boys at Epsom, there were numerous cricket games in progress at the same time, too many for the masters to monitor them all. Being juniors, my peers and I were relegated to the farthest pitch, well out of sight of prefects and other watchdogs. In the sunshine, the warm, sweet wine soon took its effect. We staggered back to our house and hit the showers, which had no effect. Our general condition was noticed by the prefects who were alerted to our state of intoxication when Michael Woolley and I fell asleep over our books during prep. Hungover and abject with contrition, we were summoned to the housemaster’s study. Under interrogation we revealed the source of our inebriation. The housemaster, whose name was Colyer, wanted to know how we had acquired the forbidden alcohol, how we had managed to smuggle it onto the cricket field and what was the vintage? We expected to be expelled for our crime. But Mr. Colyer (whose nickname was Nifty, presumably because his initials were N.F.), instead of expelling us, gave us what was known for some incomprehensible reason as “six of the best.” As we left his study, rubbing our tender rear ends, he said, “And by the way, next time you drink Sauternes, be sure to chill it first.” 34 JULY/AUGUST 2019
That lesson, driven home at the base, has remained with me ever since. There is a good reason why we chill white wine — and especially sweet wine. Can you imagine drinking Icewine at room temperature? The act of chilling wine brings down the perception of sweetness and accentuates the acidity, making the wine more refreshing and balanced. One’s personal wine-tasting history usually, as I mentioned, usually starts with sweet wines and, through the cycle of Nature, comes back to sweet wines. It is a well-documented phenomenon that the number of taste buds we have diminishes as we age (the literature suggests that this occurs in your 40s if you’re female and in your 50s if you’re male). And those taste buds that remain atrophy and shrink, which results in decreased sensitivity to taste. After the age of 60, we begin to lose the ability to distinguish among the four basic tastes: sweet, sour, salty and bitter (and also umami, the savoury fifth taste, as in soy sauce). To compensate, we tend towards stronger flavours, especially sweet, since the taste buds that register sweet are on the tip of the tongue, the first area that registers flavour when we consume wine. So as Generation X and Xennials age, the purchase and consumption of sweet wines should rise — which is good news for the producers of Sauternes, Tokaji, Late Harvest Riesling, Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, etc. × ILLUSTRATION: ROBB MIRSKY, WWW.ROBBMIRSKY.COM
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NATIVE LAND OF THE Cab to MONASTRELL 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley
put on your table, period. By keeping our roots, we follow our traditions. We have commited ourselves to produce top-quality wines, developing our genuine Monastrell grape variety.
HECULA IN FOLDER “ �
Classic Cabernet Sauvignon. Currant, blackberry, cigar box with touches of chocolate, cedar and pencil lead. Full flavored & just so damn good. I should raise the price. - Charles Smith