Quench October 2019

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OCTOBER 2019 22

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MAVERICK CHEFS 2019 LISA HOEKSTRA

The most innovative chefs in Canada revealed.

NCH 12

THE NEW LANGUEDOC TIM PAWSEY

Once celebrated then derided, the South of France’s new star is on the rise.

COLUMNS 6 | LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO

10 | THE PEOPLE’S GRAPE W. BLAKE GRAY

Time to include Kombucha in your cocktail ritual.

The tale of the País grape is epic.

8 | MUST TRY CRAIG PINHEY

“Difficile” (translation: difficult) was the word most often heard when speaking about the 2014 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino.

New York’s Finger Lakes is not just about Riesling.

9 | LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC Canada’s top taprooms with food.

27 | BUYING GUIDE The best wine, beer and spirits from around the world, critiqued by our expert tasting panel.

34 | AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER How the tasty Ontario Rosé came to be.

16 | DIFFICILE GURVINDER BHATIA

18 | NEW AND ENTIRELY DIFFERENT MICHAEL APSTEIN Muscadet is coming into its own.

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OCTOBER 2019 3

LETTER FROM THE WINE EDITOR

WWW.QUENCH.ME EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Aldo Parise editor@quench.me WINE EDITOR

Gurvinder Bhatia gbhatia@quench.me MANAGING EDITOR

Lisa Hoekstra lhoekstra@quench.me CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Tod Stewart tstewart@quench.me COLUMNISTS

Tony Aspler, Christine Sismondo, Robin LeBlanc, Craig Pinhey CONTRIBUTORS

W. Blake Gray, Tim Pawsey, Michael Apstein

A GREAT DEAL HAS BEEN WRITTEN RECENTLY POSTULATING HOW THE WINE INDUSTRY CAN BETTER CONNECT WITH CONSUMERS. QUITE FRANKLY, I FIND THIS A LITTLE ANNOYING. I am not denying that it is import-

ant for the wine industry to relate to consumers and understand their behaviour, such as their purchasing decisions. My issue is that, after decades of efforts to the contrary, the industry no longer seems to strive to make wine accessible to consumers.

Without question, the industry needs to reconnect with the average consumer. However, the industry should focus on why and how it lost touch in the first place. I believe that several contributing factors resulted in a general, perhaps unintentional, highly inappropriate disdain for the consumer.

Let’s start with the proliferation of wine speak, which has raised the pretension metre to DEFCON 1. Terms such as “medium minus” or discussing the pH of a wine may be fine in an industry context, but create a bombastic barrier for most consumers.

Then we have the mass marketing of generic, sugar-laden cola wines. As wine became more mainstream, producers took advantage (some might say they saw a business opportunity) by offering wines that appeal to the North American palate’s general affinity for sweetness. Many in the industry then decided, erroneously, that this was the only style of wine that the average consumer was interested in drinking.

How about the fact that many wine producers participate in wine trade events yet send their marketing reps to consumer events. This fails to recognize basic human nature, and marketing 101 — a pull strategy is often more effective than a push strategy.

Don’t even get me started on restaurant wine lists that are either dumbed down with generic plonk or pretentiously packed with wines that are weird for the sake of being weird (and often faulty), regardless of their quality.

The wine industry only stands to benefit by allowing consumers back in.

Accessibility, education without condescension and transparency should be the rule, not exceptions. Storytelling, genuineness, championing quality and personal connection are not outdated concepts. It is time to reconnect.

4 MAVERICK CHEFS 2019

TASTERS

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XAD JOST IN FOLDER When only Nova Scotia's finest will do.

Jost Vineyards' Tidal Bay is regularly selected to represent the best of Nova Scotia on the world stage. It has been proudly served at: The World Economic Forum, The Hague, Netherlands.

Nova Scotia Week at Park Hyatt, Zürich, Switzerland.

NATO headquarters, Stavanger, Norway.

Canada House, London, England.

Canadian Embassies around the globe.

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LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO

KOMBU AT ALL TIMES

I ONLY USE KOMBUCHA ON TWO OCCASIONS — WHEN I AM DRINKING AND WHEN I AM NOT DRINKING. Kombucha is

bubbly, fresh and acidic, and the perfect way to make a sober October a bit easier. For those not interested in going dry for a month, you can now get your hands on tasty, alcoholic kombucha. such as Pombucha — a blend of Ontario apple cider, kombucha and Zen, a vodka-spiked canned cocktail from Kelowna.

These hard versions got me wondering about using kombucha as a cocktail ingredient at home.

Ryan Ringer of Toronto’s Grey Tiger cocktail bar is famous for house-made kombucha and some of the city’s best drinks.

I went to him for some expert advice on making and using kombucha at home.

“We make kombucha at home and in the bar. It’s pretty easy but making a really good one takes practice,” says Ringer. “When using kombucha in cocktails, I’ve stuck with commercial brands for the sake of consistency. Some really great kombuchas with nice, long-lasting carbonation make really high-quality drinks.”

That was good news for me, since I did not want to wrestle with my own Symbiotic Culture of Bacteria and Yeast (SCOBY).

It is a slightly icky, pancake-shaped live culture used for brewing kombucha from tea — a tricky operation. Using kombucha in cocktails is easier. Ringer tells me it is the perfect cocktail “lengthener” — an ingredient that transforms a short drink into a tall one without watering down the flavour profile.

“It’s just so versatile, with so many flavours from fruity to herbal,” he says. “It brings out acidity and flavour, and a good one can add some dryness to the drink. It can be like using shrubs since it’s got a slight vinegary note.”

6 MAVERICK CHEFS 2019

As such, it is great to tinker around with kombucha. It could be used in place of soda water in a Collins-type drink or Mojito (especially if you can find a good mint kombucha) or instead of ginger beer in a Dark ‘n’ Stormy. It can even be used as a substitute for pop in a conventional rye and ginger cocktail and other highballs —drinks most of us gave up because they induced sugar comas and lethal hangovers.

However, Ringer warns that some commercial kombucha is overly-sweet (especially fruit ones) and that you have to compare a few to find the perfect dry one. But it is worth a little extra effort. “[Kombucha] is like a parallel extension of the exciting world of tea,” he says. “This is great because tea offers a whole new flavour universe. That’s what excites me most.”

Ringer shared a recipe for a kombucha cocktail, the New Trick Mule, from an old Grey Tiger menu. He says the recipe is fairly simple, approachable and plenty of fun.

NEW TRICK MULE

1 1 1/2 1/2 1/2 1 2

oz rye (Lot 40) oz Cocchi Rosa (or Lillet Rouge) oz ginger liqueur (Domaine de Canton) oz pink grapefruit juice oz lime juice dash Angostura bitters oz light ginger kombucha

Shake all ingredients, except the kombucha, with ice. Strain over new ice in a Collins or Mule mug. Top with kombucha. Optional garnish: mint sprig and slice of candied ginger. × × VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/MIXED/ FOR MORE DRINK RECIPES

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GRENACHE

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GARNACHA

ORIGI

Through these 5 facts that only true wine lovers know!

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- Pa r t n e r C o n t e n t -

GRENACHA IN FOLDER

1. Garnacha’s birthplace is in Europe

The first mention of Grenache in the area that now covers the borderhugging Spanish and French regions of Catalayud, Campo de Borja, Cariñena, Terra Alta, Somontano, and Roussillon dates back to 1513 BCE. This is why Europe produces the best expression of Garnacha—it is the grape’s natural home. Because of the EU PDO and PGI quality schemes, any wines labeled with these logos have a guaranteed tie to this highquality European birthplace.

2. There are four main varieties of Grenache

Most associate Garnacha with red variants/grapes, but Grenache family is actually bigger: Grenache Noir, which is black, Grenache Blanc, which is white, and Grenache Gris, which is grey and Garnacha peluda/hairy/ velvety. Each has its own aroma and flavor range, lending depth to the spectrum of wines.

Fresh and Youthful

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3. Wines of Garnacha comes in different colors

There’s a Grenache for every palate and occasion, as the category covers white, red, and rosé wines from still to sparkling, light to full, dry to sweet, fruity to earthy. There’s no dish that wouldn’t be enhanced by a Grenache complement. Vin Doux Naturels are fortified sweet wines that can be made from any one of Garnacha’s varieties, creating a spectrum of red, white, and rosé dessert wines.

4. Europe holds a treasure trove of old Garnacha wines Grenache reaches its best potential in extremely low yields and up to century old vines thanks to poor, well-drained soils; hot, windy, dry climates and a unique combination of tradition and new techniques know-how.

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5. Garnacha isn’t just for blending The Garnacha grape can play the starring role outside of GSM blends.

Grenache has everything it needs to be a well-structured, concentrated, mineral-driven mono-varietal wine. Nowhere else is this exemplified more than in the PDO and PGI Garnacha schemed wines from Europe.

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MUST TRY CRAIG PINHEY

NOT JUST RIESLING

ALTHOUGH LARGELY UNKNOWN

BY THE AVERAGE CANADIAN WINE DRINKER, the Finger Lakes wine region

in Upstate New York is well respected amongst Canadian sommeliers and wine writers, particularly for its Rieslings.

These wines have great acidity, minerality and floral notes, as well as notes of pure citrus and apple fruit.

The first vineyard was planted in 1829, but only in 1953 did the idea of growing quality Riesling and other vinifera grapes begin. Dr Konstantin Frank, hired as a consultant, founded Vinifera Wine Cellars in 1962, and quickly became known in American wine circles for producing excellent Riesling.

The 1980s to the 1990s saw a big growth in wineries in the region, which now includes distinct American Viticultural Areas (AVAs). These include Cayuga Lake, Seneca Lake and Finger Lakes, which also includes Keuka and Canandiauga and some smaller “pinky fingers.” The Finger Lakes Wine Alliance (est. 1982) has grown from a handful of wineries to 130. 10,000 acres are under vine, one tenth of which are Riesling.

Growth in the industry has slowed down, but continues. “We plant about 50 acres per year,” says Bob Madill, Wine Industry Liaison at Finger Lakes Wine 8 MAVERICK CHEFS 2019

Alliance and one of the linchpins of the industry (formerly for Glenora, Sheldrake Point and Red Newt). “We are seeing more start-ups, operating without bricksand-mortar, with around 1,000 cases.”

Not all the wine produced in the region is Riesling, although it is still the most important grape: “It’s mostly Riesling and Cabernet Franc,” confirms Madill, “plus a bit of Lemberger, Saperavi (a teinturier-type grape with red flesh, from Georgia in Europe), Gamay and even Chenin. My own estimates have been derived from the folks that Finger Lakes growers and producers employ to plant.”

There is room to expand wine production, but it is more expensive these days.

“There’s lots of land left,” Madill said. “A few hybrid vineyards need renewal and some are being switched over to vinifera.

But land prices have risen quite a bit and it can cost around $15,000 to $20,000 US for an acre of existing vinifera. Some small vineyard lots in popular vacation sites, such as those along Keuka, have been pulled up for housing.”

Global warming is a common issue for cool climate regions like The Finger Lakes.

“Climate change is clearly expressed in the form of spring frost and weather extremes,” Madill explained. “From the year that Greg Sandor and I started Sheldrake

Point to 2005, I never worried about spring frost. Now we have marked weather episodes, from droughts to gully washers — short bursts of heavy rain.”

Yet, the effects of climate change have not changed Sheldrake’s wine style, whether a crisply acidic Riesling or a fresh Cabernet Franc with red fruit flavours and medium tannins.

Other Finger Lakes wine trends reflect what is going on in Canada. “Rosé has been a growing category for several years,” says Madill. “Peter Bell, the Canadian-born winemaker at Fox Run, made a rosé for me in 1997. Since, Sheldrake made one, which grew from a couple of hundred cases one year to 500 cases, to now about 2,500, all of which are Cab Franc. Most rosé is Cabernet Franc, then Pinot Noir then Lemberger.”

“Around six producers make Petnat,” he adds, “Production is not ‘natural’ (whatever that means) as such, it’s more ‘non-interventionist’. Unoaked Cab Franc is growing in popularity. A more serious effort is being made for growing quality hybrids.”

If you have not yet had the pleasure of visiting the Fingers, plan a trip to the region. If you love aromatic whites with crisp acidity, fresh rosés or Cabernet Franc, and enjoy gorgeous water-views, you will love the lakes. ×

LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC

GOOD FOOD, GOOD BEER, GOOD LIFE! Lately, people have been talking a lot about food paired with beer (see the September 2019 cover story).

There are a lot of amazing tap rooms in this great country, but it hit me that we seem to have forgotten about the noble brewpub — that special place that offers pints of well-crafted in-house beer paired with thoughtful selections of food.

DAVE WATSON FROM EASTBOUND BREWING CO.

ings plus whichever seasonals and one-offs are available. If you would like to be more grounded when you leave, opt for a pint of Cheryl’s Blonde, a blonde ale with hints of grain and a touch of sweetness. When fresh, it is a thing of beauty.

EASTBOUND BREWING CO.

As a Torontonian, I feel obliged to boast about some of our local brewpubs, but it would be remiss not to mention some of the many wonderful offerings elsewhere in Canada. Sit down for a meal prepared by a chef with a thoughtful approach to cooking, and know that the beer you are enjoying with your meal is as fresh as it can be.

Toronto, Ontario www.eastboundbeer.com Located in Toronto’s Riverside neighbourhood, Eastbound Brewing puts as much thought into their food as their beer. Chef Tara Lee has brought her immaculate culinary skills and her love of fresh ingredients, especially pickles, to this trendy little venue. Foods like house-made charcuterie, a ricotta meatball sandwich and blistered shishito peppers pair perfectly with husband Dave Lee’s beers. His Nerve Tonic brings a gin-botanical spiciness to a bright Belgian saison.

BUSHWAKKER BREWPUB

CANOE BREWPUB

Regina, SK www.bushwakker.com Bushwakker is a Regina institution. It opened in 1991 and paved the way for brewpub legislation in Saskatchewan. The food menu includes pub mainstays, seasonal offerings, weekly specials and gluten-free options. You cannot go wrong with their fish and chips, or (if you are really hungry) the Saskatchewan Hot Plate: cabbage rolls, kielbasa, perogies, fresh sauerkraut and their signature beer bread. The beer is known in the province as the stuff of legend. Every year, the launch of their Blackberry Mead attracts huge lines and sells out quickly. You can purchase a flight of all of their beers, which includes 12 year-round offer-

Victoria, British Columbia www.canoebrewpub.com Seafood lovers cannot find a better place. The menu at Canoe is incredibly well thought out, with a focus on seasonal, fresh and locally-sourced ingredients. The fried Pacific octopus served with polenta nero, sweet pepper emulsion, smoked olive, preserved lemon, fennel and black olive purée is a perfect dish for sharing. The rotating seasonal dishes, which include salmon, albacore tuna, rockfish and halibut, are all to die for, as are Canoe’s fresh beers for pairing. I enjoy light and refreshing beer with seafood, so my suggestion for the ultimate seafood beer is Canoe’s clean and crisp Helles lager. × OCTOBER 2019 9

THE PEOPLE’S GRAPE

By W. Blake Gray

THE TALE OF THE PAÍS GRAPE IS EPIC: RELIGIOUS CONQUEST, HEROIC RESISTANCE AND A LONG DOWNTRODDEN PERIOD SIMMERING IN CRUSHING POVERTY. For the

last decade, a few winemakers in Chile have been writing a new chapter for this historic grape.

I will get the wine stuff out of the way early so we can get to the conquistadores. País, in a bottle, tends to be a light-bodied, quaffable red wine, often used as a substitute for Beaujolais.

Some Países have a delightful spicy complexity. Plus, the wines are not expensive. Until recently, the grapes were as cheap as they get in the developed world.

After being unwanted for centuries, País is suddenly cool, even in places where Chilean wine is not.

Derek Mossman, a Canadian expat who runs Chile’s Garage Wine Co., dropped by the well-regarded restaurant Gramercy Tavern during his first visit to Manhattan 10 years ago, when he was selling his dry-farmed single vineyard wines. He asked if they had any Chilean wine on the list, to which they replied: “Nothing. What kind of establishment do you think this is?”

Today, it is a different story; País is now hip. While drinking wine in Santiago, Mossman explained: “Today, País is on by the glass at the Gramercy Tavern. They sure as shit don’t have a reason to put Carménère on by the glass. But País broke through.”

It certainly took a long time for País to become hip. It has been grown in the Americas since 1540, when Spanish priests took it to Mexico to be drunk at religious ceremonies.

Paradoxically, a wine named ‘country’ by Chileans has no country to call its home. It is now extinct in its homeland, Castilla-La Mancha in Spain, where it was known by the name Listán Prieto. In North America, it was called Mission (and you can still find some in California by that name). It has been grown in the Canary Islands since Spanish ships dropped off some grapevines there on their way to the New World. Until DNA testing revealed the País’s origins, Canary Islands was assumed to be the wine’s original home.

In Chile, the native population, known as the Mapuche people, fought violently against País at first. In 1541, at the end of Spain’s first attempt to colonize Chile, the Mapuches, led by chief Michimalonco, destroyed the new city of Santiago and burned all the crop fields, likely including País vineyards. The Arauco War against the native population went on for more than 300 years.

As the Spanish got a foothold in different areas, Spanish priests planted more País. Despite their numbers being reduced by dramatically by European diseases, the Mapuches continue to resist deforestation of their ancestral territory today.

País offered great virtues to farmers: it tolerates heat and drought well, and when the vines are young, produces big crops.

In the 21st century, when we are witnessing global warming, heat and drought resistance is a good thing. Big crops? Not so much.

10 MAVERICK CHEFS 2019

País’s other flaw? Berries from young vines are big, irregularly sized and very juicy, which can result in watery and weak wines.

This is perfect for sacramental wine but not so much for fine dining, leading it to be torn out and replanted in most of the world.

As Chile’s main wine grape for centuries, País fell out of fashion fast in the 1800s. Some Chileans got rich from mining and used their money to travel to Europe, where they fell in love with Bordeaux wines. These industrialists brought Bordeaux grapes back to Chile, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc and some Carménère they mistook for Merlot, and planted them on huge parcels of open farmland. For premium wines, Chile became Cabernet country quite quickly, especially near Santiago, where the barons of industry live.

País lived on as the people’s grape. In poor regions, including Maule Valley and former Mapuche areas like Itata and Bio Bio, farmers did not have the money to replant more lucrative vines. For years, subsistence farmers earned some cash by selling País grapes to be made into bulk wine. But even that market dropped eventually.

Farmers made and still make wine using País grapes for their own consumption or to be sold in plastic jugs to neighbours. Fizzy and light-bodied for immediate consumption, a style known in Chile as Pipeño, the wine is much like the trendy natural wines of France, but produced without fancy expensive equipment. You don’t have to be a Pipeño drinker to enjoy País today.

País vines are mostly planted in poor soils that do not support other types of agriculture. So, they have been sitting in the ground untrellised (growing like a bush, instead of being strung along metal poles like you see in most vineyards), growing older and older.

About 15 years ago, a few young, mainly non-Chilean, winemakers started asking questions about these vines — gnarled, thick, weathered brown stumps, which suddenly sprouted small bunches of grapes in summer (some of which are 200 years old).

How old are the oldest ones? How could they be used?

“País is part of Chile’s patrimony,” says winemaker Christian Sepúlveda of Bouchon Wines. “It’s not just the age of the vines, it’s the age of the vineyard owners. Many of them are 60, 70, 80 years old.”

The first hip País wines were made by French winemaker Louis-Antoine Luyt, who trained in Beaujolais with Marcel Lapierre, a pioneer of natural wine. Luyt made wines in Chile like they are made in Beaujolais: he picked early and used a fermentation technique called carbonic maceration, where the grapes are placed uncrushed in a sealed container filled with carbon dioxide. The technique yields light fruity wines.

Yet these wines were not the taste of the locals, who tend to like heavier reds. That someone could make a hip wine out of País grapes and sell it to good restaurants, however, was eye-opening.

“Carbonic maceration is a homogenizing style,” Mossman says.

“We can do more with País than that. We want to make something

VIÑA BOUCHON MAULE VALLEY PAÍS SALVAJE 2018 ($28)

Winemaker Christian Sepúlveda decided to make wine using País grapes growing wild in a riverbed on the Bouchon property. The grape seeds may have been dropped by birds. This unique wine is light in body and colour, yet flavourful. It is quite spicy, and the fruit is more like hibiscus flowers than berries.

VIÑA BOUCHON MAULE VALLEY PAÍS VIEJO 2018 ($22)

It is hard to top the story behind Bouchon’s other País.

This wine is made from grapes purchased from very old vineyards, some with vines over 100 years old. It is very light red — even lighter than most Beaujolais — with a pretty floral aroma and gentle flavours of hibiscus and berry. It is perfect for when you want a red wine but you are having white-wine food.

GARAGE WINE CO. 215 BC FERMENT PAÍS 2017 ($28)

Canadian expat Derek Mossman has access to some of the oldest País vines in Maule Valley. But unlike most of his other wines, which he ferments in small batches, he ferments the País from different vineyards together in one batch — even when they come in on different days.

He says this is how they did it in 215 BC. The result is a País with a little more backbone than most versions, but it still maintains its light-bodied, floral charm.

VIÑA LAS VELETAS MAULE VALLEY PAÍS 2017 ($23) ROBERTO HENRÍQUEZ

more in the spirit of what the old men make in the neighbourhood.

Some would say it’s a little weedier, a little more tannic.”

Sepúlveda agrees. He says Bouchon Wines used to make a País like Cabernet by punching down the grapes to extract as much flavour and colour as possible, and it was not very good. But he did not want to make a Beaujolais-like wine either. Bouchon’s País is now among the best in the country: light-bodied yet complex, with good depth of flavour, enjoyed quaffed or slowly sipped.

Bouchon Wines also makes País Salvaje, a wine made from wild grapes that grow in a riverbed on the producer’s property.

The seeds may have been dropped by birds. It would be difficult to get closer to the spirit of 16th-century wine.

“You’re not just drinking the vines,” Sepúlveda says. “You’re also drinking the ecosystem.”

You may not be able to taste five centuries of history in a glass of País. They were in the Americas before Shakespeare was born, before the discovery of gravity and before telescopes and steam engines. And for the first time in centuries, their future looks bright. ×

This blend of 85% País with 15% Carignan is reminiscent of the field blends farmers make in the Maule Valley, where those two grapes come from the oldest vines. It is light and fresh, slightly spicy and floral.

Delightful and easy to drink.

VIÑA MORANDÉ MAULE VALLEY ADVENTURE ATERCIOPELADO 2018 ($25)

Winemaker Ricardo Baettig did not quite trust the País on its own; he added 20% Malbec, a grape that is commonplace across the Argentine border but not as easy to find in Chile. It has more red fruit character than a 100% País but is still light and easy to drink — País’s greatest virtue.

ROBERTO HENRIQUEZ RIVERA DEL NOTRO TINTO PAÍS 2017 ($32)

Henriquez is the toast of Chile’s tiny natural wine scene, especially for his Pipeño, a simple field blend in a bottle instead of a traditional plastic jug. This is a slightly more serious wine from 200-year-old vines. It is brambly, fruity and refreshing.

OCTOBER 2019 11

THE NEW

by Tim Pawsey

LANGUEDOC

ONCE CELEBRATED THEN DERIDED, THE SOUTH OF FRANCE’S NEW STAR IS ON THE RISE

12 MAVERICK CHEFS 2019

From across the channel in pre-Chunnel England, France appeared mysterious, somewhat exotic and infinitely more sexy than the UK. Besides, the French drank wine ...

I encountered my first Vin de Pays in my early teens during a summer exchange in Charente. It was red wine with dinner and everyone drank it, including a five year old, who had it with a splash of water. This scenario was the reality and the raison d’être of Vin de Pays. It was workaday wine, usually from the South of France, often Languedoc.

The world has changed since then, and that includes the Languedoc. Staggeringly, the region, which once accounted for roughly 10 percent of the world’s entire wine production, has now emerged as a “serious” wine region.

Roughly one third of French wine still comes from the sun-drenched swath of vineyards that straddles the South of France, nearly stretching from Nimes to Perpignan and the Eastern Pyrenees.

Momentous shifts much in synch with the times are happening in Languedoc. Today almost 30 percent of its production is organic and/or biodynamic (and this number is increasing) — arguably the most impressive and lesser-known fact about the region.

It is tough to pin down precisely when Languedoc’s first vines took root, but it is believed that the Phoenicians brought them to France sometime around the 5th century BC. If you look up in the historic town of Roquebrun in Saint-Chinian, you can see high on the steep slope remnants of vineyard terraces among the ruins. By the 14th century, the region had become known for its superior quality wines, a reputation that endured for several centuries. Post-phylloxera, the quality of the region’s wines became swamped by the sea of lesser juice, as a product of industrialization. Varieties were chosen for their capacity to deliver the highest yields, rather than their quality.

The “new” Languedoc has slowly evolved over the last 20 to 30 years and is now doing so with increasing speed. Wine quality is ever improving as the region con-

tinues to drill down and classify its 37,000 hectares. With 23 AOC appellations, it remains the world’s largest single wine producing appellation. Languedoc (formerly Coteaux du Languedoc) is now divided into five Villages Crus du Languedoc, 10 sub-regions, four sweet wine and three sparkling wine appellations, and 19 protected geographical indication areas.

In the background, you can detect a significant momentum among producers to designate (and in some cases separate), with 10 regions and three sub-regions including some that want to be recognized in their own right.

There are definite contenders. Case in point, AOC Languedoc-Sommieres is Languedoc’s easternmost appellation.

Just beyond is Costieres des Nimes and the Côtes du Rhône. Its producers have applied to be classified as AOC Sommieres, a Grand Vin du Languedoc.

In Roman times, Sommières was an important crossing. Its restored bridge, which crosses the river Vidourle, dates from 19 AD. Considerably influenced by the Mediterranean and the Mistral, the region features scrubby landscape and shale soils. Syrah and Grenache thrive here.

“In Bordeaux, we smell the châteaux, in Burgundy the Pinot, but in Languedoc we smell the garrigue,” Mas Montel’s JeanPhilippe Granier likes to joke. Granier grows his fruit in rehabilitated vineyards that can be traced back to their Roman origins. His Mas Montel Camp de l’Oste 2016, a blend of Syrah (60percent) with equal parts Grenache and Mourvedre, is well-structured, layered with black fruit and earthy notes and well-integrated tannins. Élisabeth and François Jourdan own one of Sommières oldest estates, Château l’Argentier. It has been in Élisabeth’s family since 1937. François was born in Burgundy and learned winemaking there before moving to Languedoc in 1983. Their 24 hectares includes 2.2 hectares classified in Languedoc Sommières and 5.94 hectares in Languedoc Grès de Montpellier. The flagship Château l’Argentier 2013 (Syrah 70%, Carignan 20% and Grenache 10%) is made with vines aged between 29 to 85. Like all Château l’Argentier’s wines, the flagship

wine was fermented and aged in concrete vats, resulting in a fresh but complex character with black fruit and stony hints that reflect the irony and flinty soils.

In regional AOC Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun, Christine Deleuze and her brother Luc Simon run Clos Bagatelle, a historic estate comprising 60 hectares in Saint-Chinian and Saint Jean de Minervois and has has been in their family since 1963. Having planted new vines and modernized the winery, the Deleuzes hand harvest and practice minimal intervention.

The wine style is clean and expressive, reflecting the differing limestone, schists, sandstone and calcareous soils. Clos Bagatelle is also working towards a Haute Valeur Environnmentale (HVE), a certification that would recognize their efforts to protect biodiversity, benefitting crops, animals and the surrounding environment.

The domaine was founded in 1623. At this time, its coat of arms was a countess wearing armour. Christine Deleuze suggested that this “adventurer woman” is an apt symbol for her family. The vineyards will continue to be passed on from mother to daughter: “Our goal is to grow crops in the cleanest way, so we can hand down the estate to our children,” says Deleuze.

Her family have been preserving Clos Bagatelle’s biodiversity for over two decades.

OVER THE PAST FEW YEARS, REGIONAL AOC PICPOUL DE PINET HAS ALSO BEEN MORE SUSTAINABLY FARMED AND ENJOYING INCREASING EXPORTS. Picpoul is a natural accompani-

ment to fresh seafood, but its gentle saline edge and acidity make it a shoo-in for oysters— a regional specialty.

Pinet is home to two major co-ops that account for 80 percent of wine production in the appellation. In the vineyards around, vines at least 60 or 70 years’ old are spaced 1.5 metres apart to accommodate horse-drawn work. It is not hard to find reminders of Roman settlement, and “modern” records date back to 1618.

As more sustainable practices are taking hold, growers point to the success of so called “confusion programs” for pests, which have eliminated chemical use.

OCTOBER 2019 13

SAINTE LUCIE D’AISSOU BELLA DAMA AOC CORBIÈRES BOUTENAC 2016 ($28)

From a 40 ha domaine dating from 1869, passionately stewarded by the dynamic Jean-Paul Serres. A blend of Carignan (50%) and Grenache (50%). Allowing the grapes to hang just past ripeness rewards with vibrant red fruit up front, before a plush, layered and textured palate with elegant mouthfeel defined by supple and well-integrated tannins.

CHÂTEAU DE NOUVELLES GABRIELLE AOC FITOU 2017 ($40)

From Languedoc’s oldest appellation. Second year into biodynamic conversion.

A blend of 46% Carignan and 30% Grenache with 10% Syrah, from 70 year old vines, grown on schist soils with 12 months in barrel, one third new oak. Upfront red berries and spice notes followed by a generous palate wrapped in firm but approachable tannins before a lengthy end.

CASCASTEL DEDICAU AOC FITOU 2017 ($50)

This blend of Carignan (45%), Grenache (30%) and Syrah (25%) yields up front vibrant red berries, toasty oak and spice notes before a plush palate of raspberry, blackberry and black pepper wrapped in approachable and well integrated tannins through a mouth-filling finish.

LES SENTIERS DE BAGATELLE DONNADIEU ST CHINIAN AOC 2017 ($20)

A blend of Syrah (50%) with Mourvèdre (20%), Grenache (15%) and Carignan (15%) grown on ideal, poor Schist soils at includes 50 year old Grenache and Carignan bush vines. Hand harvested with fermentation up to one month, aged in large oak.

Upfront black fruit and garrigue followed by cassis and cherry notes with spice and herb hints, wrapped in well-structured but approachable tannins.

DOMAINE DE CEBENE FELGARIA AOC FAUGERES 2015 ($64)

Predominantly Mourvèdre with a little Syrah. Lifted red and black fruit before a structured but elegant palate of cassis and spice notes wrapped in approachable fine tannins through a lingering close.

OLLIER TAILLEFEUR ALLEGRO AOC FAUGÈRES 2018 ($22)

A outstanding blend of Vermentino (Rolle) and Roussanne invites with seductive floral notes and orchard fruit before a generous but focused palate of pear, citrus and honey, underpinned by keen minerality.

DOMAINE DE VIRGILE JOLY VIRGILE ROUGE AOC LANGUEDOC SAINT SATURNIN 2014 ($30)

From organic pioneers Virgile and Magdalena Joly. A blend of old vine Grenache, Syrah and Carignan, hand-picked, aged in concrete and oak casks. Forward black fruits and spice with mocha notes before a palate of black cherry and spice wrapped in plush tannins and peppery hints.

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CAVE DE L’ORMARINE AOC PICPOUL DE PINET 2018 ($18)

One of the region’s longest established grapes, with records back to 1618. The Picpoul variety (as in ‘Pique Poule’) is named for the tingling sensation it can have on your lips. Upfront orchard fruits and citrus before a palate of lemon and green apple with a fresh and lively finish.

LES VIGNERONS DE FLORENSAC AOC PICPOUL DE PINET 2018 ($22)

A selection of grapes from better sites around the appellation, all close to the Mediterranean. Night harvested before cold fermentation in stainless steel and aging four months on lees. Forward citrus and stone-fruit notes before a palate of grapefruit and peach pit with a hint of salinity wrapped in moderate acidity before a fresh finish.

GÉRARD BERTRAND WAS AMONG THE EARLY OCCITANS TO REJECT BULK WINE PRODUCTION IN FAVOUR OF USING THE REGION’S INDIGENOUS VARIETIES TO MAKE QUALITY WINE.

Small pheromone capsules are distributed throughout the vineyard to compete with scents released by the female pest.

When the male is unable to find his mate the breeding cycle is interrupted, eventually depleting the population.

Initially, these programs greatly reduced chemical spraying, but now it has been entirely eliminated. This is thanks to the rebound of other beneficial species and the return of a more balanced ecosystem.

As an aside, among the 24 private wineries outside the two principal co-ops, 10 are owned or run by women.

At Domaine Ollier-Taillefer in AOC Faugères, Françoise and Luc Ollier epitomize what is taking place in Languedoc’s smallest but increasingly well-known appellation. This sister and brother duo (locally-born winemakers) oversee 30 hectares of steeply sloped schist AOC vineyards, which have been in their family for five generations.

Their parents Nicole and Alain Ollier, who sold their first bottled wine in the mid-1970s, were instrumental toward gaining an AOC decree in 1982 for red and rosé wines.

After attaining organic certification for their wine in 2012, the siblings built a gravity-fed winery and cellar with a

“green” roof into a hill, using the region’s porous rock. They make three tiers of AOC reds (Faugères is very much a red wine appellation), including a Grand Reserve blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah, which ages very well. Their Allegro, a blend of Vermentino and Roussanne, is a worthy match for local goat cheese. They also maintain the production of an excellent Fine de Faugères, an oak aged eau de vie for which the region was known before table wines.

change the industry at large. Today, his company manages 15 estates, of which 12 are either already farmed biodynamically or on their way. He also sets the pace for burgeoning wine tourism. He has threestar Chateau l’Hospitalet — a restored 16th-century building, now a destination hotel and conference centre in the heart of the biodynamically farmed vineyards.

Today, Languedoc is immersed in rediscovering and revitalizing its historic, eminently more quality-driven wine culture. The region’s energy flows from a ARGUABLY NO ONE EMBODIES rugged determination not only to reconLanguedoc’s transformation more than nect with the land but also respect its use, Gerard Bertrand. At 22, he assumed the and nurture and preserve its integrity for reigns of his family’s Villemajou Estate in future generations.

1987 after his father George lost his life in Languedoc’s ability to shift gears an auto accident. Bertrand was no strang- from quantity to quality so quickly is er to wine, however. He experienced his quite remarkable. Through a sea of first vintage in 1975 and worked alongside change in vineyard management techhis father for the 12 years thereafter. nique and viticulture, the industry now Gerard Bertrand was among the early boasts yields of between 40 hectoliter Occitans to reject bulk wine production in and 50 hectoliter per hectare, reported to favour of using the region’s indigenous va- be among France’s lowest. rieties to make quality wine. He was also In Languedoc, you can see attention the first in the region to put wine in bar- to detail and terroir driving quality at rels rather than tanks, in the 1970s. every turn. In matters of wine, change An international rugby star who traditionally happens slowly and is played for France, Gerard Bertrand drew fiercely resisted. But this is not so in on his game skills and doggedly compet- Languedoc, where change is constant itive nature to build the business and and enthusiastically embraced. × OCTOBER 2019 15

DIFFICILE

by Gurvinder Bhatia

“Difficile” (translation: difficult) was the word I most often heard when speaking to producers about the 2014 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino.

I sampled nearly 70 wines in the beautiful Tuscan hilltop town of Montalcino in February; I could taste the challenging cool and rainy conditions of 2014 in every one. It was clear which producers’ viticultural and vinification practices responded appropriately to the conditions of the vintage. It was also clear which producers attempted, mostly unsuccessfully, to create wine styles simply not possible given the weather.

Filippo Manni, a winemaker at Frescobaldi’s Tenute di Castelgiocondo with vineyards to the west/south-west of Montalcino, talked me through the weather during that vintage.

According to Manni, it was warm and wet in winter, and mild and dry in spring, which allowed for normal vegetative growth and regular flowering. Early summer included dry periods with warmer temperatures, but August was “rainy and cold, creating very difficult conditions for ripening and greatly increasing the risk of diseases.” The mostly sunny and dry conditions in September and October offered “excellent conditions for ripening.”

However, grapes were only able to ripen because of the work done in the vineyards during the growing season, such as leaf stripping, green harvest and treatments for disease.

Violante Gardini of Donatella Cinelli Colombini (DCC), whose vineyards lie north of Montalcino, sighed that the 2014 vintage was “not easy.” She explained that in an ideal vintage producers can harvest the grapes when they want. However, in 2014, the rain, especially heavy rain in the fall, forced producers to decide whether to pick early or risk more rain. She said that picking at the desired ripeness was a challenge.

Mirroring Manni and many other producers’ sentiments, Gardini emphasized how important work in the vineyard during the summer of 2014 was for producing decent wine. This work enabled several producers to produce elegant, charming and fresh wines, easy to drink and, while young, good accompaniments to food.

Gardini is content that DCC made a wine that year that can be drunk now and in the next five to eight years. According to her, the 2014 wines are not the best for aging over a long time. DCC did not produce a Selezione Prime Donne Brunello or a Riserva in 2014 and waited as long as possible to decide whether to produce Annata (the name for their regular — basic — Brunello from that vintage).

Gardini is happy with the decision as she believes the wine is very good for early drinking. For Gardini, the silver lining of the 2014 vintage was the winery’s decision to farm organically as 16 MAVERICK CHEFS 2019

it helped them achieve better results despite the challenges. In 2015, the winery began the process of acquiring organic certification. 2018 should be its first harvest certified as organic.

Laura Brunelli of Gianni Brunelli said that despite producing approximately half the Brunello in 2014 than in a normal year, their 2014 Brunello is good quality and “expressive of the vintage.” She describes the wine as “fresh, clean and salty.” Like many Barolo and Barbaresco producers who faced a cool and rainy 2014, Brunelli suggested that sometimes “fresh”, ie. cool and rainy, vintages can surprise you. The acidity can actually result in greater longevity than what may be expected when the grapes are harvested or the wine is released.

Manni also explains the impact of different soils on the results of the vintage. The quality of the grapes grown on well-draining soils was significantly better than on soils with a higher clay content that tend to retain water. He did make a 2014 Brunello and even a Riserva, but only using grapes grown in vineyards with well-draining soils. He described these wines as “more discrete” and “graceful” with “beautiful acidity and drinkability”. He said that they will “age for a decade or even more, but today they are food-friendly with character.”

The best of the wines I tasted are floral, elegant and balanced.

They have notes of crisp red fruit, a lovely freshness, minerality and savouriness, and are a lovely expression of the Sangiovese grape. While you wait for more structured vintages to reach a good maturity, these wines are charming to drink now and will make excellent wines to enjoy at home and while dining out over the next five to eight years (or maybe even longer).

Some estates did not produce a 2014. Many did not make a Riserva. Many declassified their grapes and made more Rosso. The few that produced Annata made significantly less.

Several, who did not make the vintage appropriate viticultural and enological decisions, made unbalanced, disjointed and unpleasant wines.

2014 is not a vintage to be dismissed, but you need to carefully select wines from this year. Producers generally dictate the quality of their wines. Some very good quality 2014 Brunellos should not be overlooked. Enjoy them now and stash a few bottles in your cellar to see how well they will age and for how long, if you are so inclined.

The following are some of the better examples of Brunello from the 2014 vintage:

FABRIZIO BINDOCCI FROM IL POGGIONE

CARPAZO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2014 ($60)

Elegant and fresh with bright red fruit, minerality, fresh herbs and spice with a firm, lean backbone from the acidity.

Bright acidity, good length and harmonious. It is quite enjoyable now but does possess the understated structure to allow it to age well for at least 5 to 8 years.

IL POGGIONE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2014 ($72)

DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2014 ($76)

Approachable with soft tannins. Almost lush with cherry, plum, earth and spice. Well-balanced and a bright finish.

Pretty and aromatic with bitter cherry, wet earth, citrus, dried herbs and spice. Lean and delicate with fresh acidity and well-integrated tannins.

GIANNI BRUNELLI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2014 ($95)

UCCELLIERA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2014 ($96)

Lovely quality fruit with cherry, raspberry and spice. A firm core, bright acidity, elegant, graceful and balanced with refined tannins and excellent length.

LE POTAZZINE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2014 ($100)

Bright, elegant and fresh with loads of cherry and strawberry fruit flavours. Perfumed, slightly earthy with mineral notes. Linear and firm, yet accessible, drinkable and vibrant. Excellent integration and a lingering finish.

CIACCI PICCOLOMINI D’ARAGONA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2014 ($75)

Nice balance and depth with ripe berry fruit, spice and licorice, a rich texture, supple tannins, lifted acidity and more ripe fruit on the finish.

FRESCOBALDI CASTELGIOCONDO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2014 ($57)

Graceful and restrained, showing quality cherry and tart red berry fruit. A nice intensity and a tight core.

A good underlying structure and a tight core with Morello cherry, spice, tobacco, dried herbs, and coffee.

The oak is prominent but still well-integrated for the style. The tannins are slightly drying, but the fresh acidity ensures that this wine is drinkable.

BARICCI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2014 ($100)

An abundance of fresh, bright cherry and raspberry, mint and fresh herbs, perfumed aromatics. It is very well-integrated and balanced. Supple tannins, juicy acidity, firm and linear, and elegant and vibrant. It drinks beautifully in its youth and may be one of the wines of the vintage with a longer aging potential.

IL MARRONETO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2014 ($90)

Another one of the highlights of the vintage. It is alluring and accessible in its youth and may still evolve and continue to develop for a decade or more. Vibrant and elegant with juicy red fruit, fresh herbs and spice.

A tight core and bright acidity, with good complexity revealing more as it opens up in the glass. × OCTOBER 2019 17

NEW AND ENTIRELY DIFFERENT

by Michael Apstein

“Muscadet loves the ocean,” quipped François Robin, a representative of the Fédération des Vins de Nantes, as we stood together on the beach at La Bernerie-en-Retz, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. As we were being buffeted by the cold saline-scented winds amid a light drizzle, my usual love for the ocean faded quickly.

Still, there is no question that Muscadet and the ocean are a perfect pairing. A prominent feature on any seafood restaurant’s wine list, these zesty and refreshing wines have always been ideal with steamed or raw clams, oysters on the half shelf or just about any other creature from the sea.

The category has just got better with the introduction of the Muscadet crus: wines that convey more complexity and even a touch of Burgundian sensibility.

Though the crus differ from one another, they are thrilling and completely different from “classic Muscadet” — a term that growers are adopting to describe traditionally-framed wines to emphasize the difference between the two styles. They have more depth, weight and minerality.

They are more substantial yet maintain 18 MAVERICK CHEFS 2019

balance and an enlivening freshness.

Consumers need not worry that the clean and cutting style of Muscadet they know and love will disappear. When the cru system is fully in place, cru wines will represent only about 10 percent of Muscadet’s acreage and about two percent of its production, according to Pierre-Jean Sauvion, President of Communication for Inter-Loire. Furthermore, talks I have had with producers and prices I have seen lead me to conclude that classic or traditional Muscadet will still be considered “exceptional value” because premium consumers are willing to pay over and above for wines from crus.

The crus have already altered the region’s reputation as a source for light, crisp white wine suited to shellfish and

little else. Don’t get me wrong, Muscadet is still the go-to wine for simple shellfish, but the crus have taken Muscadet to another level.

Muscadet growers have identified villages within the broader region capable of producing distinctive wines. French wine regulators have agreed that these villages (crus) have unique terroir and can produce wines very different to traditional Muscadet. This new AOC (appellation d’origine controllée) or AOP (appellation d’origine protégé) — growers decide which term to use — will prominently display the name of the village on the label along with the broader region, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine or, in one case, Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire. In some cases, the Muscadet moniker is even relegated to the

MICHEL BRÉGEON’S 2013 GORGES HAS ALL THE DENSITY AND POWER YOU’D EXPECT FROM THIS CRU.

back label to emphasize the importance of the individual cru. Beaujolais crus use this system, and Burgundy’s hierarchy of Grand or Premier Cru uses a similar one.

However, unlike the latter, Muscadet crus are (at least officially) equal in prestige.

Having a system that differentiates Muscadet crus from classic Muscadet makes total sense. Muscadet crus bear no resemblance to Muscadet or even Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, one of the best sub-regions. This, in the same way that Beaujolais wines from Moulin-à-Vent bear no resemblance to the wines from Beaujolais or even Beaujolais-Villages.

But no lunch is free — consumers will be burdened with learning more geography and the names of these little known villages. Growers needed twenty minutes

to walk me through the labels during a Muscadet cru tasting last year in the Loire.

But rest assured, the cru wines are like a whole new wine category, exciting and eye-opening, and well worth the effort.

Let us take a look at the history of Muscadet wines. Muscadet is a large region at the westernmost point of the Loire, where it empties into the Atlantic. The region only produces white wine from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, brought to the region from Burgundy in the 16th century by monks, according to Sauvion. (Wine producers in Muscadet refer to the grape as “Melon” to avoid any confusion with the Burgundy region.)

Muscadet is split into three major sub-regions: Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu, and Mus-

cadet Coteaux de la Loire. Each one has its own appellation and their wines are much more interesting than those simply labeled Muscadet. Producers insist that the soil in Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, a combination of gneiss, granite and schist, without rocks or stones, accounts for the minerally, steely wines for which the sub-region is known.

Côtes de Grandlieu, a much smaller area — 500 acres compared to about 15,000 acres for Sèvre et Maine — is warmer because, like Châteauneuf-duPape, during the day the stones in the ground reflect the heat toward the vines and retain it during the night. Moreover, the Loire river and a big lake that lie to either side of Côtes de Grandlieu moderate the temperature. This extra warmth OCTOBER 2019 19

MARC OLLIVIER’S 2015 CLISSON FROM DOMAINE DE LA PÉPIÈRE COMBINES A DELICATE CREAMINESS THAT CONTRASTS WITH A STIFF SPINE.

results in slightly riper grapes and richer wines that maintain Muscadet’s signature minerality and vibrancy.

Growers frequently age Muscadet on lees — dead yeast created by fermentation —in stainless steel or slated-lined tanks for up to nine months. This helps balance the wines’ vigorous acidity for which the region is known and create a smoother texture. Wines aged this way are labelled sur lie. Muscadet is rarely aged in barrel because the wood mutes the engaging lively character for which the wine is prized.

IT IS BEST TO DRINK MUSCADET WHEN IT IS YOUNG — ITS LIVELY AND FLINTY CHARACTER PAIRS SO WELL WITH LOCAL SEAFOOD (MUSCADET AND OYSTERS ARE A CLASSIC COMBINATION).

However, some growers have kept a little wine on the lees (in often underground tanks) for years before bottling, apparently for friends and family. No producer could explain how this custom originated, but perhaps they borrowed the concept from Champagne, where prolonged lees-aging softens the acidity and is used to make super premium Champagne known as late-dis20 MAVERICK CHEFS 2019

gorged Champagne. These prolonged lees aged Muscadet are stunning and unique, delivering a Burgundian-like richness and minerality framed by firm acidity.

When I first tasted a Muscadet cru in New York in 2012, Nicolas Choblet, owner of Domain du Haut Bourg, exclaimed with a broad smile that acidity provides structure and prolonged lees aging “proves Muscadet can be a great wine”. No argument here. Plus, aging involves little effort: “The work happens in the vineyard; you just watch the wine develop.” Crus are aged on the lees for at least two or three years, depending on the bedrock of the individual cru. The harder the rock, the more lees aging is needed to soften the wine. Paradoxically, they do not carry the sur lie designation because their lees aging exceeds nine months — the maximum permitted by Muscadet regulations. Also in an effort to ensure higher quality wine, the yield for the crus is 20 percent lower than for classic Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (45 hl/ha versus 55), according to Robin.

In 2011, authorities granted cru status to three villages: Clisson, Gorges and Le Pallet. According to Sauvion, seven

more are slated to be included with the 2020 vintage (or soon thereafter): Monnières-Saint Fiacre, Château-Thébaud, La Haye-Fouassière, Goulaine, Vallet, Mouzillon Tillères, and Champtoceaux. All of the crus are in Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, except Champtoceaux, which is to the north, in Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire.

The soil and climate between the villages differ, which accounts for the differences in the wines, explains Jérémie Huchet, a top producer in Monnières-Saint Fiacre. Jim Budd, a world expert in Loire wines, agrees, but also believes that the neutrality of the Melon de Bourgogne and the lack of wood aging help explain why the terroir shines in the crus.

According to Huchet, prolonged lees aging is needed to soften the acidity in cru wines, which are more acidic than classic Muscadet. Huchet believes that the acidity gives the wine some spine, while lees aging gives it a creamy body. Robin believes that the cru wines have more in common with Burgundy than with classic Muscadet. They are more suitable for serious meals whereas classic Muscadet is usually paired with casual fare.

The similarity of the wines from a single cru and the diversity of the wines from one cru to another is striking. The differences among the crus shine despite the wines being made by different producers who may be using different winemaking techniques. It is an impressive reminder that terroir is alive and well in Muscadet, not just in Burgundy.

Rightfully, the Muscadet crus are garnering a lot of recent attention. But one taste of Jérôme Bretaudeau’s superb 2014 Gaïa (no relation to the famed Piemontese producer, Angelo Gaja, whose daughter is named Gaïa), a straight-up classic Muscadet, reminded me that Muscadet — cru or not — loves the ocean.

Below are some current releases from top producers. Most of them are lees aged and date from 2015 or earlier. These small-production wines may not be easy to find, but any wine from these producers is worth buying.

CLISSON

Granite base rock, in large measure, accounts for the elegant and precise character of the wines from Clisson, one of the first villages to be awarded cru status. Very poor sandy soil forces the vines’ roots to go deep. The 2015 Clisson from Domaine de la Pépière ($30), one of the very top producers in the Muscadet region, combines a delicate creaminess that contrasts with a stiff spine. It is a refined wine that shows marvellously now, but still has energy and tautness for further aging.

Aged 50 months on the lees, JeanLuc Ollivier’s Domaine de la Grenaudière 2014 Clisson ($20) is still fresh and very lively. Its granitic-tinged edginess and length makes it a sophisticated wine. To emphasis the cru, Clisson is prominently displayed in large type on the label while Muscadet Sèvre et Maine appears in much smaller letters.

GORGES

The primary bedrock here is gabbro (similar to hard basalt), which imparts a muscular power to the wines. Michel Brégeon’s 2013 Gorges ($40) has all the density and power you’d expect from this cru. At five years of age, it is barely ready to drink, reminding us that, contrary to

conventional wisdom, some wines from Muscadet need years to develop.

VALLET

The soil in Vallet is more heterogenous with varying depths of sand and sandy clay soil atop mica schist with spots of gabbro and inclusions of granite. Château de la Ragotière’s 2015 Vallet ($28) has a delicate floral element that accompanies a lovely austerity. An attractive hint of bitterness in the finish adds to its appeal.

Long and precise, it cuts like a laser.

Château du Cléray’s 2014 Vallet ($22) has a similar appealing austerity and flowery note that, paradoxically, has an impressive depth. Again, a touch of bitterness in the finish reminds you that this is serious wine.

GOULAINE

Goulaine wines are ready sooner and need less time on the lees than other wines in the region. It is the first area to be harvested because the underlying gneiss and mica schist warm the soil and the weather is warmer. The wines often have a distinct salinity (Fleur de Sel de Guérande comes to mind), which is prominent in the Domaine de Guérande’s 2015 Goulaine ($19), adding a captivating brightness and spiciness. You will be surprised by this wine’s density if you are used to classic Muscadet.

LA HAYE FOUASSIÈRE

The soil at Muscadet’s westernmost cru, La Haye Fouassière, contains quartz. Wine producer Jo Landron, one of the stars of the region, says this imparts a smokiness into the wines. Landron’s 2013 Le Fief du Breil ($33) from La Haye Fouassière is stunning, with a haunting flintiness, power and persistence. His father has been making this wine since 1982.

MONNIÈRES-SAINT FIACRE

The bedrock of gneiss, or decomposed granite, in this cru typically yields a gentler expression of Muscadet, with slightly less firm minerality and a more floral component. True to form, Domaine de la Pépière’s 2015 Monnières-Saint Fiacre

($26) has a slightly rounder profile without losing any of the energy associated with Muscadet. Comparing this one with their Clisson shows the dramatic differences between those two crus.

MOUZILLON-TILLIÈRES

Stéphane Luneau, a top grower in the region, notes that there are two towns, Mouzillon and Tillières, but only one soil type —decomposed gabbro, locally known as chappe, which imparts muscularity to the wines. As expected from a gabbro-heavy soil, the 2010 Mouzillon-Tillières from Michel Luneau et Fils ($20), even at eight years of age and after more than four years of lees-aging, is powerful, steel-y and delicious.

CHAMPTOCEAUX

In an effort to promote the cru, growers in this area have adopted a standard type face for all the labels, with Champtoceaux prominently displayed on the front label. With a softer bedrock, the wines undergo less lees aging. The delicacy and floral undertones in Bernard et Benoît Landron’s 2016 Champtoceaux, Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire ($20) are emblematic of the cru and reflect its gneiss soil and Champtoceaux’s more northern locale. Penetrating and cutting acidity reminds you this is still Muscadet.

CHÂTEAU-THÉBAUD

The subsoil, which may explain the herbal notes in the wines, is what the locals called diorite — granite without quartz.

Growers in this cru believe the subsoil also explains a sharpness to the wines.

With its herbal almost anise-like spice, Famille Lieubeau’s 2015 Château-Thébaud ($32) exemplifies the characteristics of this cru. A lovely, sharp and penetrating quality imparts enormous energy.

LE PALLET

A combination of gneiss and gabbro soil lend a fascinating ying-yang complexity to the wines of this cru. The cooperative, Les Vignerons du Pallet, is their major producer. Their 2015 Jubilation ($26) delivers a beguiling combination of delicate spice and firm minerality, buttressed by vibrant citrus-like acidity. × OCTOBER 2019 21

MAVERICK

CHEFS

2019

by Lisa Hoekstra

Chefs wield a special power. They create masterpieces that nourish, delight and bewilder, often at the same time. A meal made by a talented chef brings people together at the table and across time. If we are not careful, this special power can get overlooked. At Quench, we make a point to celebrate talented Canadian chefs every year and to acknowledge the people behind the plates.

Each of our 2019 Mav Chefs connect people in a unique way. Suzanne Barr is active in her community.

Among other things, she uses her success as a chef to give others a start in the industry by helping them learn valuable kitchen skills. Jean-Christophe Poirier recreated a piece of his Quebec home town in Vancouver to give the West Coast a taste of the East. Our Mav Sommelier Bryant Mao connects with people every day, introducing them to wines and drinks made by Canadian producers around the world. The full interviews plus our fourth Maverick Chef, Marcel Larrea, the man who brought Nikkei to Montreal and the cooks out of the kitchen, are available at www.quench.me/mavericks.

22 MAVERICK CHEFS 2019

SUZANNE BARR

AVLING KITCHEN & BREWERY AND TRUE TRUE DINER TORONTO, ONTARIO In July, Barr launched two Toronto projects for which she is head chef: Avling Kitchen & Brewery and True True Diner. Barr is no stranger to being busy and has an impressive résumé. In 2018, she travelled the world, speaking at the MAD Symposium in Copenhagen and the Women in Hospitality United symposium in New York City. She also earned Best New Restaurant and was featured in Maya Gallus’s documentary film The Heat: A Kitchen (R) evolution. She is one of Canada’s most respected chefs. With her passion for local community, food security, and advocacy for people of colour and LGBTQ+ communities, she breaks down barriers everywhere she goes.

WHY IS IT IMPORTANT TO YOU TO USE YOUR PLATFORM AS A RESPECTED CHEF IN TORONTO TO SUPPORT THE PEOPLE IN YOUR COMMUNITY? I have always put myself in scenarios where I may be the first person to do it or one of the only. That attitude comes from my great grandmother, my cultural background and my ancestral history. I’m the child of an entrepreneur who fought hard and managed to develop a business, from his garage. I think this is the path I was always meant to take. I finally found it. I feel very grateful for my platform because I know it’s a challenge. It’s a challenge at times because my son and my partner need me, and my family wants to see me more. But they’re all supportive and understand my mission and the work that I put in.

WHAT WAS THE BIGGEST DECISION YOU HAD TO MAKE OR HURDLE YOU HAD TO OVERCOME TO GET TO WHERE YOU ARE TODAY? Opening the doors of our restaurant Saturday Dinette, my first non-catering Toronto-based project, I found out I was pregnant. My pregnancy was the biggest game changer for me.

It totally changed the trajectory of what we’d planned to do within that space. It taught me to keep moving forward. It also put me in the conversation with working parents, working moms, and showed me what it means to bring a child to work,

especially in the restaurant industry and as a small business owner. I had my son in his carriage and stroller while I was on the line cooking and I would nurse in between services.

WHAT IS YOUR GOAL WITH ALVING KITCHEN & BREWERY? The concept is a conversation about the future of breweries. The idea is to offer a kitchen environment and a brewery environment, animal procurement programming and rooftop garden programming. It’s also to be innovative with the space and to show guests the spirit of the brewery: working relationships with the farmers, artisan markets, bakeries and so on. The front of the house can share with guests where we source our fish, our beer grains and what we do with them after they’ve been used, what’s happening on our rooftop garden and what’s going to happen in the spring, the different programming and different ways to keep people active within in the space.

WHAT DISH WOULD YOU MAKE IF YOU WERE HAVING A GROUP OF PEOPLE OVER FOR DINNER? A whole roasted chicken, for sure. It’s perfect in every way and simple. Salt, no oil. Little pepper. Little fresh lemon in the cavity. Sometimes a little garlic. Roast it in the oven, high heat, then drop it down to finish it off.

OCTOBER 2019 23

JEAN-CHRISTOPHE POIRIER

ST LAWRENCE RESTAURANT VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA St Lawrence Restaurant is a passion project for Quebec-born Poirier. After two years of delays, he was able to open his little piece of Quebec in Vancouver and carve out a unique niche in Vancouver’s dining landscape. He has drawn from his culinary schooling and his experience working at Les Remparts in Old Montreal and Toqué — a Québécois haute-cuisine restaurant focussed on seasonality and terroir — to create a space that is 100 percent French, from the food style to the ambience and even the music. At St Lawrence Restaurant, Poirier combines old-school French cooking techniques with Quebecois cuisine to create dishes that embody food from his childhood.

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO BECOME A CHEF? Food can connect people of all ages, no matter their sex or race. Its power is the same all around the world. Food culture is the number one thing that brings people together and it’s often the number one conversation subject. To cook well, you need to love eating and you need to love the people for whom you are cooking. I have always cooked to give pleasure and joy, and to bring the people I cook for and myself closer together. This is what I try to do every day at St Lawrence. It’s why I became a chef and that’s what inspired me to be better.

WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO OPEN A RESTAURANT IN BC? I have often thought about returning to Quebec, but I have too much going on in BC. St Lawrence was my opportunity to build something as close as possible to the idea of coming back home. I saw the chance for me to represent my culture and the people of Quebec in a different province.

24 MAVERICK CHEFS 2019

HOW IS THE CULINARY SCENE IN VANCOUVER DIFFERENT FROM THE ONE IN QUEBEC? In general, the food scene in Quebec is more laid back and fun yet maintains a high standard for products and execution. Restaurants on the West Coast take themselves way too seriously.

HOW OFTEN DO YOU CHANGE UP YOUR MENU AND WHAT INFLUENCES THE SELECTIONS YOU MAKE? I only change the menu twice a year. Instead, we do features every night. Seasonality, ingredients and collaboration with other cooks influence my decisions.

HOW DOES FOOD BRING PEOPLE TOGETHER? Food is about tradition, history and culture. We have the responsibility to honour the people that came before us by looking at their work and those who will come after. The past and the future are connected, and so are the people and the food representing them. People are usually proud to share their knowledge and dishes that represent who they really are.

VENISON TOURTIÈRE DE VILLE

SERVES 4

For me, Tourtière is the dish that best represents Quebec. It can be traced back to the 1600s and there is no master recipe as every family has their own version. What’s more, the style of the meat pie changes from region to region. Originally, it was made with game birds or game meat like rabbit, pheasant and moose, hence why I prefer it with venison instead of beef or pork. Tourtière still remains a staple both during Réveillon [a long dinner on Christmas eve] and in Quebecois households. It’s part of our heritage, it’s close to my heart, and it’s important for me to keep it alive.

100 g onion, finely minced 1 tbsp garlic, chopped 30 g butter 125 g mushrooms, finely chopped 125 ml red wine, plus one glass for yourself 450 g ground venison neck meat or shoulder 2 tsp Kosher salt 1 tsp Pâté Spice* 150 g back fat, ground 1 cup potato, grated 1 batch Pâte Brisée (recipe follows) 1 egg yolk

*PÂTÉ SPICE

8 9 10 7 3

tsp black pepper tsp ground cloves tsp ground nutmeg tsp ground cinnamon tsp ground ginger

1. Preheat your oven to 450°F. 2. In a large pot over medium heat, sweat the onions and garlic in butter. Add the mushrooms and continue cooking until any water from the vegetables evaporates. Add red wine, enjoy your glass, and allow the mixture to reduce completely, approximately 10 minutes.

3. Add the ground venison, salt and pâté spice to the pot. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring to separate the chunks of meat. Stir in the back fat and grated potato and cook for around 10 minutes.

Taste for seasoning, remove from the heat, and let cool.

4. Divide the pie dough in half and roll it out into two 1/8-inch thick disks. Line a 12-inch pie plate with half the dough, then fill with the ground-venison mixture.

5. Cover the meat with the other half of dough and brush the top with the egg yolk. Poke a few holes in the top crust or design your pie the way you’d like it — you’re the artist.

6. Bake in the oven for 15 minutes at 450°F, then lower the temperature to 350°F and bake for about 20 minutes.

PÂTE BRISÉE (SHORT-CRUST PIE DOUGH)

2 360 2 100

cups all-purpose flour g unsalted butter, cold and cubed tsp salt ml ice water

Add the flour, butter and salt to a food processor. Pulse until the butter is incorporated and the mixture looks like wet sand.

Having a few little chunks of butter here and there is OK — do not over mix. Still pulsing, slowly pour the ice water into the food processor until the mixture forms into a ball —again, do not over mix. Wrap the dough ball in plastic wrap and allow to rest in the fridge for a minimum of 1 hour.

OCTOBER 2019 25

BRYANT MAO HAWKSWORTH RESTAURANT VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA Bryant Mao entered the drinks industry in 2006 as a bartender for River Rock Casino. At the same time, he earned his Sommelier Guild Diploma. Since then, he has played a major role in the wine and bar programs of elite restaurants like Vancouver’s Brix and George Ultra Lounge. He also spent four years in London, England, working under the guidance of Wine Director Terry Threlfall at Chez Bruce, a Michelin-starred restaurant. Now, he leads the award-winning wine and drinks program at Hawkworth Restaurant. He approaches wine service with a calming presence. He asks his clientele a series of questions to understand their preferences and build trust. This helps him establish himself, and Hawksworth, as a go-to place for wine and drinks.

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO BECOME A SOMMELIER? The pursuit of knowledge, to learn more about the wine, the product, the people and the story behind the product that we introduce to our guests every day.

WHAT IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT THINGS YOU LEARNED WORKING FOR TERRY THRELFALL AT CHEZ BRUCE IN LONDON? Service. It doesn’t matter how much wine knowledge you have. If you can’t provide good service, everything else is irrelevant.

IN YOUR OPINION, HOW DO FOOD AND WINE CONNECT PEOPLE? Food and wine create an experience — they take people places and create memories that link people to places or time. People don’t dine out to feed their hunger, they do it for an experience, to share a moment and create a memory with fellow guests.

HOW IMPORTANT IS IT TO YOU TO INCLUDE LOCAL BC WINES IN YOUR WINE LISTS? It’s very important. BC is still a young and upcoming wine growing region. We like to find and work with new, small boutique wineries in BC and ones that are well established yet continue to push boundaries to push BC to the next level.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE WINE PAIRING WHEN YOU’RE HAVING A GROUP DINNER WITH FRIENDS AND FAMILY? Champagne. It’s very versatile and matched with so many different cuisines. Plus, champagne offers many different styles to choose from. × 26 MAVERICK CHEFS 2019

× VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/MAVERICKS/ FOR FULL INTERVIEWS

BUYING GUIDE

All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to find the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new. Afterall, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and will likely vary from province to province. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, so check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability.

Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Michelle Bouffard, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Tim Pawsey, Michaela Morris, Jordan St. John and Jonathan Smithe. *Available through private import and online wine clubs

SPARKLING SUNNYCLIFF ESTATE CHARDONNAY/PINOT NOIR NV, VICTORIA ($14)

Clear medium-deep yellow with tons of bubbles. Fruit salad featuring pears and peaches on the nose. Berries, more peaches and orange on the palate, with a sweetish boiled candy finish. Drink up. (RL)* LIGHTFOOT & WOLFVILLE VINEYARDS BLANC DE BLANCS BRUT 2014, NOVA SCOTIA ($45)

This is a great example of some stunning bubbles made in Nova Scotia. Pronounced brioche and yeasty notes with lemon and an elegant mousse. Rich yet savoury with integrated dosage. Bring on the gougères! (MB)

WHITE $20 AND UNDER

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA WOLF BLASS YELLOW LABEL CHARDONNAY 2018, ADELAIDE HILLS ($13)

Clear medium yellow. Oak prominent on

the nose with lots of vanilla and caramel over orange and apple aromas. Full-bodied and smooth on the palate, slightly sweetish and tasting of stone fruit and melon. The oak is obvious but the ample fruit prevents it from being overwhelming. Drink up. (RL) CANADA FLAT ROCK CELLARS RIESLING 2016, NIAGARA ($17.95)

Pale straw in colour with a minerally grapefruit nose and a suggestion of petrol; just off-dry with a honeyed grapefruit flavour. Nicely balanced.

Good length. (TA) NOBLE RIDGE PINOT GRIGIO 2017, OKANAGAN FALLS ($18.49)

Estate grown on a modified Scott Henry trellising with fruit from different soil types within close proximity. Aromas of orchard fruits precede a fairly full-bodied palate. Some mineral notes, apple and lemon peel with good length and a hint of lemon zest in the finish. (TP) HESTER CREEK TERRA UNICA VIOGNIER 2018, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($19.99)

Grown on two well-established sites in Osoyoos. Hand harvested and cold fermented in stainless steel for 17 days.

Orchard fruits and citrus notes on the

nose with a hint of orange blossom followed by a focussed palate of nectarine and honey. Fresh finish with a hint of minerality. A refreshing way to greet the cool weather. (TP) FRANCE DOMAINE HAUTE FÉVRIE MUSCADET SÈVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE 2017, LOIRE ($15.95)

Light straw colour with a minerally citrus nose. Light- to medium-bodied and tart, with grapefruit and grapefruit pith flavours. (TA) CHÂTEAU LAMOTHE DE HAUX 2017, BORDEAUX ($16.95)

A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle. Pale straw in colour. A bouquet of lanolin and pear with mineral notes. Light- to medium-bodied, dry, waxy pear and green plum flavours with lively acidity. (TA) GERMANY LOOSEN BROS RIESLING DR. L 2016, MOSEL ($14.95)

Pale straw in colour with a minerally honeyed grapefruit bouquet. Light-bodied with a faint spritz; honeyed grapefruit flavour ending on a note of apple.

Good value. (TA) OCTOBER 2019 27

BUYING GUIDE GREECE KIR-YIANNI PARANGA 2018, PGI MACEDONIA ($13.90)

Greece produces a great selection of wellmade wine at an astonishing price and this is a perfect example. Made of 80% Roditis and 20% Malagousia, this crisp dry white wine has a fairly oily texture with notes of lemon, rose, rosemary and litchi. A touch of carbon dioxide gives the wine an extra refreshing lift. Fried squid with tzatziki is an obvious match but it would also be a good partner to Thaï green curry seafood. (MB) TROUPIS WINERY FTERI MOSCHOFILERO 2017, MANTINIA ($16.95)

Very pale in colour, almost water white. Spicy, Muscat-like honeysuckle and peach bouquet. Light-bodied, aromatic, with a white peach flavour.

Very elegant. (TA) ITALY E. VON KELLER PINOT GRIGIO 2017 DOC ALTO ADIGE ($18)

Clear pale yellow. Strong aromas of ripe luscious pear. Medium bodied. Completely dry but so fruit packed, with apples and more pears, that it feels sweet.

Long classy finish. Will last another year or two. (RL)* PIERSANTI 2017 DOC VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO ($15)

Clear medium gold. Forward nose of Granny Smith apple, pineapple, citrus, a bit reminiscent of a Chilean Chardonnay.

Medium-bodied with apple and pineapple fruit in great balance with crisp dry acidity. Perfect with grilled, even blackened, white fish. Drink up. (RL)* 28 MAVERICK CHEFS 2019

NEW ZEALAND

FRANCE

KIRKLAND SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018, MARLBOROUGH ($12)

LOUIS LURTON LA VIE EST BELLE! SAUVIGNON BLANC NV ($12)

KIM CRAWFORD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018, MARLBOROUGH ($14)

UNITED STATES

One of Costco’s house-label wines. Clear pale silvery-yellow. Medium intensity nose of guava, gooseberry, lemon and rich mown grass. Light- to medium-bodied, with the essential New Zealand gooseberry and grapefruit flavours, but the attraction here is the bright, lemony acidity, with a bit of citrus oil bitterness on the finish. Refreshing and moreish.

Value. Drink up. (RL)

Clear medium-deep yellow. Fairly powerful nose of gooseberry and passionfruit.

Full-bodied, almost viscous. Almost sweet from packed grapefruit, papaya and more passionfruit. Drink up. (RL)* TAI NUI SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018, MARLBOROUGH ($17)

Pale silvery-yellow. Robust nose of passionfruit, grapefruit, gooseberry and lime shouts “New Zealand!”. Full-bodied and full-flavoured, cuts like a knife through smoked trout served with bitter radicchio. Will be drinking at its best in 2020. (RL)*

A dépanneur wine, about as good as the company it keeps. Clear pale yellow. An attempt at New Zealand style results in a medium-intensity nose of guava and gooseberry with some bitter grapefruit on the finish. Light-bodied, tasting of grapefruit, orange and green grapes. Acidity a bit too high. Would work with light cheese or white fish.

Drink up. (RL)

MORGAN BAY CELLARS CHARDONNAY 2017, CALIFORNIA ($17)

Extremely good value, showing citrus, apple, a creamy texture, good balance, a touch of butterscotch and a good, clean, slightly juicy finish. For all the banquet facilities serving undrinkable sugar-laden swill, this is a much better solution. (GB)

$20.01 TO $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA RUST WINE CO CHARDONNAY 2018, OKANAGAN FALLS ($21)

RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA WOLF BLASS RED LABEL UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2017 ($12)

Light-bodied with peach flavours, but bright acidity and a bit of bitter minerality give the wine structure and avoid fruit-bomb territory. Drink up. (RL)

From 30-year-old vines on loam above gravel and small boulders. All stainless-steel fermented, with no use of oak or malolactic fermentation. Orchard, citrus and stone fruit on the nose, followed by a generous, mouth-filling palate of apple, pear and melon notes buoyed by balanced acidity, creating a full-fruited, pure varietal expression. (TP)

CLOS DU SOLEIL WHISPERED SECRET PINOT GRIS 2018, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($21.90)

From a cooler site on the valley’s southern edge, hand harvested and whole cluster pressed, fermented in stainless steel and some French oak puncheons, aged on the lees for four months. Fresh orchard and citrus fruits on the nose lead to a clean, refreshing palate of pear and apple over stone fruit and citrus.

Wrapped in moderately juicy acidity, before a crisp, zesty close. (TP) RUST WINE CO GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2018, GOLDEN MILE BENCH ($22)

From 50-year-old vines planted on now Golden Mile Bench, a classic varietal nose yields vibrant, perfumed floral and rose petal notes before a lush but well-structured palate of rose petal, quince and spice with lingering ginger and spice notes through the close. (TP) TOWNSHIP 7 FOOL’S GOLD VINEYARD RIESLING 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($24.97)

From a single vineyard in North Oliver originally planted by noted viticulturist Richard Cleave. Upfront vibrant citrus and stone fruit notes precede a keenly focused palate of peach and zesty citrus wrapped in bright acidity with a definite mineral streak before a fresh, clean close. (TP) ROAD 13 ROUSSANNE 2017, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($26)

Mainly Roussanne (96%) with 4% Viognier, sourced from Similkameen’s Blind Creek Vineyard, ripened during one of the hottest and driest summers on record. Whole bunch pressed and partially oak barrel fermented (30% new French oak) with monthly lees stirring. Vibrant gold in the glass, forward honey, herbal and tropical notes before a luscious and voluptuous but structured palate of pineapple and citrus before a lengthy close. An excellent varietal expression for drinking now or in a few years. (TP) HUFF ESTATES CUVÉE JANINE 2016, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($30)

90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay, 20 months on lees. Light salmon colour.

Crusty baguette nose with wild straw-

berry aromas; light-bodied, dry, toasty, red berry-red cherry flavours. Beautifully balanced and elegant with great length. (TA) HUFF ESTATES SOUTH BAY VINEYARDS CHARDONNAY 2017, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($30)

Light straw in colour with a spicy, gently oaky apple bouquet. Medium-bodied, dry, apple and lemon flavours. Harmonious with judicious use of oak. Reminiscent of a Maçon-Lugny. Lovely mouthfeel with a fresh finish. (TA) MISSION HILL TERROIR COLLECTION RIESLING 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($30)

From the Simes Vineyard, on a north facing slope comprised of fine glacial silts and clay. Aromas of orchard and citrus fruits, followed by a well-balanced, focused palate defined by forward green apple and lemon-lime with pith hints and a touch of minerality wrapped in vibrant acidity. (TP) MISSION HILL TERROIR COLLECTION VIOGNIER 2018, WEST OSOYOOS ($30)

An elegant and varietally precise expression yields lifted aromas of stone fruit and spice, which precede a luscious and juicy apricot and nectarine palate with a touch of peach pit, generous but focussed mouthfeel through a lingering finish. (TP) TRAIL ESTATE HUGH VINEYARD RIESLING SKIN FERMENTED WHITE 2018, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE, ONTARIO ($35)

The trend of extended skin contact on white grapes has not escaped Canadian winemakers. And this is a delicious success. Beautiful peach and apricot aromas with a hint of white flowers. Bright acid with chalky texture and light tannins.

Pleasant mix of aromatics and bitterness on the finish. Very enjoyable. (MB)

KENDALL-JACKSON VINTNER’S RESERVE PINOT GRIS 2017, CALIFORNIA ($21.95)

Straw colour, minerally, peach pit bouquet. Medium-bodied, dry with a white peach flavour. A touch of sweetness in mid-palate with lemony acidity on the finish. Perfect with a stewed rabbit in a mustard reduction. (TA)

RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA SHAW & SMITH, SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018, ADELAIDE HILLS ($27)

Refreshing with bright acid and expressive yet not over the top. Notes of guava, lime, grapefruit and lemon with a touch of grass. Light body and pure with a medium finish. Shines when enjoyed with grilled asparagus and poached eggs lightly sprinkled with fresh Parmesan. (MB) FRANCE CHÂTEAU DE LA MULONNIÈRE CHENIN BLANC ANJOU BLANC, 2017, LOIRE VALLEY ($25)

Delicately off-dry with a great balance between ripe sweetness and bright acidity. Notes of citrus, ginger spice and mineral. Crisp and persistent with a racy, persistent length. (GB) DOMAINE DE TERRES BLANCHES ALCHIMIE BLANC, 2017, LOIRE VALLEY ($26)

Taut and angular with lively floral and white fruit aromas and flavours.

Flinty, lightly herbal, mouth-watering acidity, well balanced with a juicy finish. A very good value and well-integrated Sauvignon Blanc. It’s easy to say goat’s cheese or oysters with this one but go outside your comfort zone an try with Thai fish cakes. (GB) SOUTH AFRICA

UNITED STATES KENDALL-JACKSON VINTNER’S RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2017, CALIFORNIA ($19.95)

Golden straw colour. Spicy, toasty peach and mango nose. Medium- to full-bodied.

Ripe orchard fruit flavours with a note of pineapple and a touch of butterscotch sweetness in mid-palate. (TA)

× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT WWW.QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/

THE WINERY OF GOOD HOPE UNOAKED CHARDONNAY, 2018, WESTERN CAPE ($22)

Fresh with good fruit and a creamy texture, subtle and balanced with a clean finish. The wine opened up with food and particularly did well with white fish and poultry dishes. (GB) OCTOBER 2019 29

BUYING GUIDE OVER $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

mild stone fruit flavours. Emphasis is on the tart and refreshing acidity. A bottle goes quickly. Value. Drink up. (RL)

CANADA LE CLOS JORDANNE LE GRAND CLOS CHARDONNAY 2017, VQA NIAGARA PENINSULA, ONTARIO ($66)

Rich nose with generous notes of butter, hazelnut, vanilla, toast and lemon rind that mingle. Equally bold on the palate but refined and elegant with fresh acid, a full body and a long, lingering finish. (MB)

KIRKLAND ROSÉ 2018, AC COTES DE PROVENCE, FRANCE ($15)

A Costco house-label wine. Clear medium-deep yellow-tinged vermilion. Forward and appealing nose of red berries, also peaches and bananas. But on the palate, the flavours of bananas and Maraschino cherry are heavy, sweet and crude. Initially appealing, but two glasses are more than enough. Drink now. (RL)

FRANCE DOMAINE DE TERRES BLANCHES SANCERRE LE VALLON 2017, LOIRE VALLEY ($50)

Fresh, pure and focussed with a steely backbone. Rich, firm, leaning to austere, lime pith and salty notes, great vibrant tension and a mouth-watering long finish. (GB) GÉRARD BERTRAND, CHÂTEAU LA SAUVAGEONNE GRAND VIN 2018, LANGUEDOC AOP ($55)

Lush notes of lemon zest, guava, garrigues and vanilla are in symbiosis. Full body with soft acid balanced by a pleasant and refreshing bitterness on the finish.

Rich and textured, making it a great partner to seared scallops or veal served with a morel mushroom cream sauce. (MB)

ROSÉ G. DE FUEGO ROSÉ NV, SPAIN ($10)

From north-west Spain. Pale pinkish gold. Medium intensity nose of peaches, bananas and orange. Light-bodied with 30 MAVERICK CHEFS 2019

GÉRARD BERTRAND CÔTE DES ROSES 2017 AOP, LANGUEDOC, FRANCE ($19)

Unusual blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. Clear pale vermilion (a colour commonly called “peach”, although the colour of this wine is quite different from that of peach flesh). Medium nose of melon, orange, nectarine and a hint of grapefruit. Light-bodied with sharp acidity, tasting of assorted red berries.

Drink up. (RL) WHEN PIGS FLY PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2018, NIAGARA ($20)

Product of a virtual winery made at Rockway Vineyards by winemaker Vadim Chelekhov using fruit from Vieni Vineyard. Pale salmon pink in colour with an amber tint. Minerally, cherry pit nose. Medium-bodied, cherry flavour with just a touch of sweetness in the mid-palate. (TA) SPERLING VINEYARDS ORGANIC PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2018, SOUTH KELOWNA, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($20)

Grown on limestone rich soils on the long-established home estate. Careful handling and limited skin contact

yields a pretty medium-salmon colour.

Upfront red berry aromas lead to a keenly focussed palate of wild strawberry and sour cherry with some citrus hints. Crisp and clean, wrapped in bright acidity. (TP) JOIE FARM RE-THINK PINK ROSÉ 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($20.79)

This blend of mainly Pinot Noir (58%) and Gamay (28%) with Pinot Gris (10%) and Pinot Meunier (4%) lures with red berries and herbal notes up front, followed by a palate of cherry and citrus, with hints of pink grapefruit and watermelon, defined by well-balanced fruit and acidity. (TP) TOWNSHIP 7 ROSÉ 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($21.97)

Merlot (55%) from the Naramata estate with Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) from Oliver, Malbec (10%) and Petit Verdot (5%).

Picked and co-fermented except for the Cabernet, which was added later to keep tannins in check. A definite and welcome nod to Provence, with red fruits up front followed by wild cherry, rhubarb and earthy notes with juicy acidity, through a crisp, dry finish. (TP) DOMAINE CLOS BELLANE ALTITUDE ROSÉ 2018, CÔTES DU RHÔNE AOC, FRANCE ($22)

The elegance of this rosé made from 100% Grenache is a testament to Stéphane Vedeau’s sensibility. Bright acid with medium body and delicate notes of white peaches and pink grapefruit. More linear than one might expect from a rosé from southern Rhône, thanks to the cooler site of Clos Bellane planted at 410 metres on calcareous soils. Ideal as an aperitif. (MB)

MALIVOIRE, ROSÉ MOIRA 2018, VQA BEAMSVILLE BENCH, ONTARIO ($25)

Made from Pinot Noir, this dry rosé has appealing notes of juicy wild strawberries, pink grapefruit and white peach.

Vibrant acidity with a nice creamy mouthfeel and a structure to match grilled salmon. (MB)

and fresh acid. Light on its feet and dangerously easy to drink if slightly chilled. Fantastic value and, I would say, barbecued pork’s best friend. Would also accompany Dim Sum well. (MB)

RECOMMENDED

HUFF ESTATES PINOT NOIR RESERVE 2017, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($40)

Ruby colour with a violet tint at the rim. Lifted black raspberry nose with oak spice and a light floral note. Medium-bodied, crisply dry, cranberry and sour cherry flavours; well-balanced and very Burgundian in style. (TA)

FRANCE

RED

PIERRE-MARIE CHERMETTE, GRIOTTES 2018, BEAUJOLAIS AOC ($18.40)

$20 AND UNDER

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FRANCE GÉRARD BERTRAND LA CLAPE SYRAH CARIGNAN MOURVÈDRE 2016 LANGUEDOC ($18.95)

Dense purple colour. Cedary, spicy, herbal, blackberry nose with notes of pepper.

Medium- to full-bodied, dry and savoury, firmly structured with black olive and black plum flavours, finishing on seductive ripe tannins. (TA) CHÂTEAU VIGNELAURE LA SOURCE 2014 AC COTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCE ($19)

Clear deep plum red. Rich and mature nose of cassis and oak with blueberry and a touch of fig. Full bodied and mouth-coating with cherry and prune flavours seasoned with a dash of black pepper, finishing on bitter chocolate.

Tannins still muscular and the acidity is a bit high. Value. Will last another year or two. (RL)*

Bright notes of sour cherries and raspberries with a hint of pleasing herbal aromas that lift the wine. Light body with soft chalky tannins and fresh acid.

The strength of this wine is its simplicity and easiness to drink. Serve slightly chilled with raclette or a plate of pâtés and charcuteries. (MB) SPAIN

Clear medium-deep garnet. Bouquet of chokecherry, milk chocolate and a hint of barnyard. Full bodied and full flavoured with cherry and black liquorice. Lots of alcohol, this is a wine for red meat. Will last another year or two. (RL)* SOUTH AFRICA PERDEBERG CELLAR THE VINEYARD COLLECTION, CINSAULT 2017, COASTAL REGION, SOUTH AFRICA ($16.95)

An extremely appealing pure nose with a mix of fresh crushed raspberries and strawberries. Equally charming on the palate with soft tannins, a silky texture

OROFINO PETIT VERDOT HENDSBEE VINEYARD 2016, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY, BC ($45)

I love the unexpected, and this wine was just that. Tasted blind back in June, I had a preconceived idea when I was told it was a Petit Verdot from BC. How wrong I was! Full body with firm tannins, fresh acid and abundant notes of leather, dark plum and toast.

One needs a piece of red meat to fully appreciate this wine. The tannins will mellow with proteins. (MB) ITALY

BODEGAS LOS FRAILES, MONASTRELL GARNACHA, VALENCIA DO ($17)

Abundant notes of raspberries, dark cherries and plums with a hint of clove provide the typical notes associated with Monastrell and Garnacha grown in southern climes. Full body with soft acid and round, ripe tannins. This organic wine is a good partner for Monday night’s burger. (MB)

BIGAGNOLI BARDOLINO CLASSICO 2017, VENETO ($22)

Loads of dark cherry, spice and a hint of fresh herbs. Penetrating, textural and more spice on the finish. A good example of a lighter weight wine with loads of flavour. (GB) UNITED STATES

$20.01 TO $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA

GRAFFETTA NERO D’AVOLA 2014 DOC SICILIA ($16)

CANADA

QUAILS’ GATE PINOT NOIR 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($29.99)

Ruby colour, black raspberry nose with a touch of vanilla oak. Medium-bodied, dry, elegant and well-structured. (TA) MISSION HILL RESERVE SHIRAZ 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY BC VQA ($31)

I have been trying this wine over many years and this might be the finest vintage of it I have had. Full body with chewy tannins and brisk acid are in harmony with the concentrated yet fresh notes of violet, black pepper and iron.

Medium finish. Well-made and worth every dollar. If you like game meet, this is the wine to choose. (MB)

KENDALL-JACKSON VINTNER’S RESERVE PINOT NOIR 2017 ($24.95)

Deep ruby colour. Spicy, smoky, black raspberry nose with an oaky note.

Full-bodied, dry, ripe strawberry and plum flavours with vanilla oak spice.

Juicy and ripe. (TA)

RECOMMENDED FRANCE CHÂTEAU DE LA MULONNIERE CABERNET FRANCE ANJOU ROUGE 2017, LOIRE VALLEY ($25)

Elegant with notes of red fruit, tobacco and fresh herbs. Earthy mineral notes with smooth, well-integrated tannins, finishing with juicy fruit and hints of black pepper. (GB)

OCTOBER 2019 31

BUYING GUIDE ITALY CA DE’ ROCCHI BARDOLINO 2016, VENETO ($24)

Juicy, fresh with sour cherry flavours.

A soft silky texture, well-balanced and well-integrated with a lifted finish.

Classically light and fresh. Serve slightly chilled. A blend of Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella and Negrara. (GB) URAGUAY COLINAS DE URUGUAY TANNAT 2015, URUGUAY ($23)

A well-balanced and intriguing wine showing vibrant raspberry, plum, redcurrant and spice with licorice notes and a subtle edginess. Well-integrated juicy tannins, a firm backbone and a bright, savoury finish. If you can get one more BBQ day in, this is your wine. (GB)

OVER $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA CLOS DU SOLEIL CABERNET FRANC WINEMAKER SERIES, ESTATE VINEYARD, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($36)

The typical fresh notes of pencil shavings, red plums and raspberries that are associated with Cabernet Franc. Medium body with fresh acid and firm tannins. A pleasing salty black licorice nuance on the moderate-to-long finish. Well-integrated oak. Pleasing now but this wine will shine even more in a few years. (MB) ROAD 13 SYRAH MALBEC 2017, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($37)

Mainly Syrah (28.5%) with 21.5% Mal32 MAVERICK CHEFS 2019

bec, de-stemmed and placed in opentop fermenters in small lots with twice daily punch-down for 8 to 10 days before basket pressing and maturing in French oak barrels. Intense purple in the glass with upfront black fruits and some graphite notes before a generous, well-balanced palate of boysenberry, mulberry and black pepper notes with vanilla and spice hints supported by firm tannins through the lingering finish. (TP)

de-stemmed and gently crushed, small batch fermented in French and American oak, aged over 20 months. Upfront black fruit and red fruit with dusty notes and hints of tea and graphite. A superbly balanced palate of herbaceous and spice notes with cassis, pepper and trademark Similkameen minerality wrapped in approachable tannins through the lengthy close. (TP)

QUAILS’ GATE PINOT NOIR STEWART FAMILY RESERVE 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($51.99)

A blend of Syrah (92%) with Viognier, from the hottest vintage on record to date, and from one of the rockiest sites in the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys, made almost entirely with free run juice, with a small amount of viognier blended in. Matured for 20 months in new and second use American and French oak. Aromas of red and black berries with plum and cherry above some meaty gamey hints. The plush, full-bodied palate rewards with blackcurrent, cassis and spicy black pepper notes. This is underpinned by a definite savoury, herbal streak with a distinctive mineral edge and seamless tannins before a lengthy gently savoury and vanilla close. (TP)

Ruby colour. Lightly cedary nose of black raspberries. Medium-bodied, dry, greater concentration of flavour than the QG’s regular Pinot. Rich black raspberry flavour carried on lively acidity to a firm finish of resolved tannins. (TA)

RECOMMENDED CANADA LEANING POST CABERNET FRANC 2016, VQA TWENTY MILE BENCH, ONTARIO ($45)

Medium body with bright acid and chewy tannins with savoury notes of bright plum, graphite and cedar aromas.

A bit simple on the moderate finish but honest and well-made. A natural for hanger steak. (MB) VANESSA VINEYARD CABERNET FRANC, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($49.99)

From another unusual vintage that experienced one of the hottest spring’s on record before a cooler growing season.

Made from 100% estate Cabernet Franc,

VANESSA VINEYARD 2015 SYRAH, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($34.99)

SOUTH AFRICA RADFORD DALE BLACK ROCK, 2016, SWARTLAND ($40)

A wine that is both bold and fresh showing black and red fruit, spice, slightly toasty, well-integrated tannins. Good complexity and length with a pleasant lifted quality on the finish. A blend of Syrah, Cinsault, Grenache, Carignan, Mourvedre and Viognier. An all around good food wine. (GB)

BEFORE & AFTER DINNER ALVEAR PEDRO XIMENEZ DE ANADA 2015, MONTILLA MORILLES, SPAIN ($24.95/375 ML)

Deep amber in colour with a raisin, tea leaf, honey and dried apricot nose.

Full-bodied, unctuous, very sweet, candied orange marmalade flavours.

Well-balanced and a great length. Not just for dessert. (TA) BRETZ RIESLING EISWEIN 2004 RHEINHESSEN, GERMANY ($25/375 ML)

Clear medium amber. Nose of oloroso sherry and baked apple served alongside an antique violin. Viscous, with the sweet apple, stewed peach and apricot flavours beautifully balanced by acidity.

Wonderful now but will last for many more years. The trick to matching sweet wine with food is to never have the dish be more sweet. (RL)* ELISABETH VSOP AC COGNAC FINS BOIS, FRANCE ($67)

Organically made. Medium-deep old brass colour. Big nose rises out of the snifter with honey, ripe pear, stewed peaches, raw tobacco and caramel — aromas do not get much better than this. On the palate, it offers golden raisins and ripe peaches and pears, but the alcohol is a bit hot and the finish is woody. (RL)*

BEER & CIDER MARSTON’S 61 DEEP PALE ALE, ENGLAND ($2.15/500 ML)

Marston’s in Burton-upon-Trent is best known for Pedigree, but 61 Deep is their segue into a modern context. Referring to the depth of the facility’s well, the matchstruck sulfate of the local water peeks through American and Australian hops that set this modern pale ale up with pine, grapefruit, mango and a lasting bitterness despite the comparatively low (4.1%) alcohol. (JSJ)

MOOSEHEAD SMALL BATCH STRAWBERRY RHUBARB MILKSHAKE IPA, NEW BRUNSWICK ($3.10/473 ML)

Moosehead’s small batch series allows the brewers at the iconic New Brunswick plant a little leeway to play. The key components here should be strawberry, rhubarb and lactose. However, the acidity from the rhubarb is basic, and the strawberries and cream do not quite manage to pop. Bigger in all directions would be the suggestion for the next batch. (JSJ) NEW BELGIUM FAT TIRE AMBER ALE ($14.95/6-PACK 355 ML)

Colorado’s iconic New Belgium has arranged the production of their Fat Tire at Steam Whistle in Ontario. At just over 5.2% alcohol, the main interest here is the bready, dark fruit malt and a slight strawberry/red licorice character from the Willamette hops. Light and smooth enough for a late summer barbeque. (JSJ) ABBAYE DES ROCS BLANCHE DES HONNELLES, BELGIUM ($3.20/330 ML)

The combination of orange peel and coriander along with the perception of sweetness mean that the beer noses like Cointreau. The sweetness diminishes across the palate and is eventually overthrown by the tart, wheaty finish. (JSJ) STEAM WHISTLE PALE ALE, ONTARIO ($3.25/473 ML)

Only the second offering from Toronto’s Steam Whistle in 20 years, this gentle Pale Ale eschews hop bombast for a toasted grain and biscuit body with mild, grassy bitterness. The flavours are clean and well-delineated, but less on trend than bell bottoms. (JSJ) WAYNE GRETZKY NO. 99 LAGER, ONTARIO ($3.25/473 ML)

Although Gretzky has previously forayed in wine and spirits, this is the first product under his brand in the beer category.

Light amber in colour, the rye added to the grist creates a little spicy grain interest to go along with a refreshing citric hop bitterness and a crisp finish. While it cannot claim to be a great one, it is certainly a pretty good one. (JSJ) COLLECTIVE ARTS HAZY STATE DDH IPA, ONTARIO ($3.45/473 ML)

Replacing the comparatively gentle

State of Mind in the brewery’s lineup, Hazy State is an unfiltered double dry hopped IPA with Citra, Amarillo and Centennial hops. A pour resembling mango nectar features tangerine and lemon on the nose with a juicy, dank, resinous palate. (JSJ) OMER TRADITIONAL BLONDE ALE, BELGIUM ($3.50/330 ML)

Goes through a secondary fermentation in the bottle, resulting in massive carbonation and a light, spritzy body, which features aromatic peach and pear notes before revealing a profound white pepper spice mid-palate. A marvelous refresher that hides its 8.0% ABV so completely that it ought to bear a warning. (JSJ) ROYAL CANADIAN MEAD INC. FEELS LIKE FRIDAY SESSION MEAD ($3.75/355 ML)

Mead has caught on in a big way in the United States, but Canada is catching up with this hopped Buckwheat Honey Mead. The slightly floral buckwheat honey comes through, but ties into the grassy hop character, suggesting a field of clover in the mind’s eye. A good introduction to the genre for mead novices. (JSJ) LEFT FIELD BREWERY SQUEEZE PLAY POMEGRANATE, ONTARIO ($3.95/355 ML)

Toronto’s Left Field Brewery’s Squeeze Play series make fruited kettle sours. A zingy kefir-like tang mixes with juicy pomegranate seeds in an easy-drinking refresher that will keep those “last days of summer” vibes going strong. (TL) NEW LIMBURG GRISETTE, ONTARIO ($4.60/500 ML)

This light refresher has aromatic notes of bright lemon, chrysanthemum and goldenrod above a lightly sour body with a dry finish and a peppery retro-nasal sting. Just the thing after a day down the mines. (JSJ) BEAU’S ALL NATURAL BREWING CO. TOM GREEN LONDON FOG MILK STOUT, ONTARIO ($5.95/500 ML)

This silky milk stout has a hint of perfumy bergamot that seamlessly weaves into the velvety chocolate and vanilla flavours of this stout. Pour into a teacup and eat with scones, while scrolling the latest @sussexroyal Instagram posts. (TL) OCTOBER 2019 33

AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER

CREATING A CATEGORY IF YOU ARE A FAN OF ONTARIO ROSÉ, YOU WILL WANT TO THANK THE MAN WHO CREATED THE CATEGORY, MARTIN MALIVOIRE. He started his winery specifically to produce a

great pink wine in Niagara. Malivoire came to the wine industry from an unlikely background: he was a special effects director for motion pictures for 25 years until he became disenchanted with working on violent horror movies.

When he met his partner Moira, they bought a vineyard in Beamsville in 1995, now known as the Moira Vineyard. They built a house on the property with no intention of opening a winery; they just wanted the vineyard owner lifestyle.

At first, they sold their grapes to a local winery, but were not impressed with the wines produced. They decided to go into the winemaking business believing they could do a better job.

They succeeded. The Malivoire Icewine 1998 won the International Wine & Spirit Competition in London, UK for the best estate-grown dessert wine. Someone (whose identity remains unknown) entered the wine on Malivoire’s behalf and one day he received a medal in the mail. “We thought that this might be fun to do,” Malivoire reminisces, “so we bought more land and planted more grapes.”

After consulting various vineyard specialists, Malivoire planted Gamay and Pinot Gris to make his rosé. Deborah Paskus told him that these were not “noble grapes,” that he could not charge much money for them, and advised him to plant Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. “Later on, we planted some Dijon clones of Gamay — the same ones used in Beaujolais — to get the rosé I wanted. We discovered that these grapes made a great red wine in Ontario; we were amazed by the quality.”

34 MAVERICK CHEFS 2019

Malivoire’s Ladybug Rosé, first produced in 1998, became an instant hit. It featured the company’s logo, a ladybug, on the label. In 2001, when an invasion of the Asian ladybug blighted the Niagara grape crop, the Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO) insisted that the winery drop the Ladybug name from the label. But Malivoire stuck to his convictions, and the little red beetle still adorns the wine’s label and the back labels of other wines in his portfolio. “It signifies environmental friendliness,” he contends.

Today, Ladybug Rosé is LCBO’s number one Canadian rosé and Malivoire’s flagship wine. The winery produces 24,000 cases of wine, 8,000 of which are Ladybug. Malivoire used to produce some 30,000 cases but they decided to retire their branded red and white blend called “Guilty Men” because of the consumer association with the #MeToo movement. The name originated as a joke, Malivoire explained: “It was me being guilty, putting a Burgundian wine in a Bordeaux bottle and a Bordeaux-style wine in a Burgundy bottle.”

Martin Malivoire recently turned his attention to Chardonnay. He challenged his winemaker Shiraz Mottiar to discover what might be called the Platonic form of this popular grape — by stripping the wines down to the quintessential core of what Chardonnay is.

To do this, Mottiar fermented fruit from the Moira Vineyard in variety of vessels, using different techniques: one in stainless steel (labelled Steel), one in old oak (Stave) and one using whole clusters fermented in a ceramic egg (Skin). The result is remarkable — a trio of wines of totally individual styles to be sold as a pack. × ILLUSTRATION: ROBB MIRSKY, WWW.ROBBMIRSKY.COM

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