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FALL 2020
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put on your table, period. By keeping our roots, we follow our traditions. We have commited ourselves to produce top-quality wines, developing our genuine Monastrell grape variety.
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FOR WINES THAT DELIVER KONRAD EJBICH
Ribera del Duero is the wine lover’s dream region.
NCH 24
BEYOND PROVENCE MICHELLE BOUFFARD
Have producers forgotten about all of the colours of the rainbow?
COLUMNS 6 | LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO Spain has the best summer drink.
8 | MUST TRY DANIEL YETMAN Pecorino is the cheese world’s forgotten gem.
9 | LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC
10 | WHERE DO WE GO FROM HERE? TOD STEWART Barbados is defining its place in the spirits world.
17 | BEING THE ONE TIM PAWSEY How Albariño is defining Galacia and beyond.
20 | THE RISE OF CORPINNAT TREVE RING In the sea of Cava, what surges?
The hard truth about hard seltzers.
27 | BUYING GUIDE The best wine, beer and spirits from around the world, critiqued by our expert tasting panel.
34 | AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER Canadians in the vinelands of Argentina.
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LETTER FROM THE WINE EDITOR
WWW.QUENCH.ME EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Aldo Parise editor@quench.me WINE EDITOR
Gurvinder Bhatia gbhatia@quench.me MANAGING EDITOR
Lisa Hoekstra lhoekstra@quench.me CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
Tod Stewart tstewart@quench.me COLUMNISTS
Tony Aspler, Daniel Yetman, Christine Sismondo, Robin LeBlanc CONTRIBUTORS
Konrad Ejbich, Treve Ring, Michelle Bouffard, Tim Pawsey
MOST SERIOUS (AND SOME NOT SO SERIOUS) WINE WRITERS ARE INVITED ON PRESS TRIPS TO EXPERIENCE WINE REGIONS AROUND THE WORLD. They attend
tastings and seminars, visit vineyards, learn about the specifics of producers’ viticulture and vinification practices, and get a sense of the cultural and historical context of the wine, food and people of the area being visited. So much of understanding wine also involves understanding regional context, the differences between vineyard sites, the relationship of grape variety to site and the people responsible for production. These press trips can be invaluable learning experiences and most experienced wine writers, including many of Quench’s contributors, have visited numerous wine-growing regions around the globe in this manner. There is no substitute for being in the place. The reality is that most writers generate the majority of their income from sources other than writing — that is, unfortunately the norm today — and simply do not have the resources to visit multiple wine regions without participating in these organized trips for which flights, accommodation and most meal expenses are covered or reimbursed. Almost always, there is an expectation that the writer will produce an article inspired by some aspect of the trip. That tends to be the trade-off. But at what point does editorial become advertorial? In my opinion, there is nothing inherently wrong with writers accepting and participating in these trips. The objectivity and source of the content produced becomes the issue and the integrity of the writers, editors and publication are paramount. It is imperative, in my opinion, that the article produced is not influenced — and the content not guided, pre-approved or previewed in any way — by the trip organizers or participating producers. Also, the writer should not be compelled to write an article that is unequivocally positive. In addition, there must not be a link between editorial and advertising (or paid content) and if there is, there must be a clear indication that the content is sponsored ie. an advertorial. I am proud of the content produced by the writers at Quench. Passion, intelligence, objectivity, integrity and a sense of humour are our hallmarks. Our readers — and the industry we report on — deserve nothing less. 4 FALL 2020
TASTERS
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ONE WEEKEND. D E C AD E S O F H I S T O RY. APRIL 17 – 19, 2020
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LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO
THE PERFECT SUMMER DRINK SPAIN IS MY ALL-TIME FAVOURITE COUNTRY TO DRINK IN. Sure, the food, art
and scenery are good, too. But people like me fall most deeply in love with the Sidra, Manzanilla, Vermut, and (of course) Cava. Then, once home, we spend much time hunting down these liquid treasures. Thankfully, my local selection of Spanish drink has improved over the years. Although, sadly, I am yet to find Sorbete de Limón al Cava. Like Italian Sgroppino, this slushie cocktail of my dreams is a simple blend of two of my favorite things: sparkling wine and lemon sherbet. I recall a conversation I had had about Sorbete being the perfect summer drink. The conversation was with Dave Mitton, global brand ambassador for Lot 40, Pike Creek and J.P. Wiser’s, and former owner of Toronto’s Czehoski and the Harbord Room (both now closed, sadly). I turned to Mitton to understand why this crowd-pleaser seems to be largely absent from bars in Canada. “Back around 2005, we had Sorbete and Kalimotxo (red wine and coke) at Czehoski,” says Mitton. “But they didn’t last. Toronto just wasn’t into them.” It seems that Mitton was ahead of his time, as the Bellini was the only slushie cocktail people drank back then. “Later on, at Harbord Room, we offered a house-made spiked root beer float drink. It worked so well that we couldn’t keep up with demand,” he says. “But we had to keep running downstairs to get the ice cream because there was no room for a freezer behind the bar, so we had to take it off the menu.” If it were not for such logistic challenges, I think we would see many more sherbet, granita and gelato drinks on cocktail lists. The demand is there and plenty of Spanish and Italian restaurants and bars are eager to serve up a taste of southern Europe. But what does that even matter when making Sorbete at home is so simple? Serve it for dessert, as a palate cleanser or as a cocktail on a hot day. 6 FALL 2020
SORBETE DE LIMÓN AL CAVA
3 1/2 1/4 1
oz Cava cup lemon sorbete or granita oz heavy cream (optional) sprig mint (garnish)
Blend everything but the mint in a blender. Serve in a flute with a mint sprig for garnish. It is so easy to make and experiment with. Put your own spin on it by trying different herbs, flavours and wines (I am looking at you, Lambrusco), or adding a shot of your favourite liqueur (Chartreuse, anyone?). × × VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/MIXED/ FOR MORE DRINK RECIPES
River X AD to Vine Deakin Estate wines are crafted from family owned vineyards that lie in the Murray Darling region of Australia. Here, the river weaves across the land, bringing life to our vines. Rich, fertile soils and a warm, sunny climate create a perfect environment for growing quality fruit to make these delicious wines.
MUST TRY DANIEL YETMAN
A FORGOTTEN GEM Almost anybody who has swirled spaghetti around a fork has tried parmesan cheese. Parmesan is a common pasta topper, but it is not the only option. Life is too short to limit yourself to one cheese. Pecorino is not as well known, but it packs a stronger flavour and can be used in many of the same recipes. Read on to find out why you should treat your palate to this ancient Italian cheese.
WHAT IS PECORINO CHEESE?
Pecorino is a hard Italian cheese made from sheep’s milk. It comes in several varieties including Pecorino Romano, Toscano, Siciliano and Sardo. The name comes from the Italian word pecora, 8 FALL 2020
which means “of sheep”. Cheesemakers age pecorino for eight to 12 months to give it a strong flavour and a dry, crumbly texture. The taste becomes progressively smokier as the cheese ages.
WHERE DOES PECORINO COME FROM?
Pecorino is an ancient cheese. It has been consumed by Roman people for at least 2,000 years. Cheesemakers in Ancient Rome used to make it from the milk of wild sheep grazing around the city. Soldiers were given a daily ration of pecorino as a source of energy along with bread and soup. Nowadays, most pecorino cheese comes from the Italian island of Sardinia, home to more than 12,000 sheep farms. It is thought that the island is home to more than three million sheep—more than double the number of people.
HOW DOES PECORINO DIFFER FROM PARMESAN? The cheeses taste similar, but pecorino is sharper and saltier. They have a similar texture, so you can substitute pecorino for parmesan in most recipes. Parmesan is traditionally made from cow’s milk, while pecorino comes from sheep. Parmesan is generally aged for longer, which somewhat dulls its taste.
HOW CAN I USE PECORINO?
You can grate it over pasta, use it in breads and casseroles, or eat it by itself with a glass of red wine. You can use it in most recipes that call for parmesan if you want a sharper taste. When substituting pecorino in recipes like breads and casseroles, you may want to reduce the portion by about a third, as it is saltier than parmesan. ×
LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC
KRISTA AND NIKKI FROM COLLECTIVE ARTS
THE HARD TRUTH ABOUT HARD SELTZERS IT IS HARD NOT TO NOTICE. As we get further into the warmer
months of 2020, a wave is starting up. Although this is not a new trend by any stretch, it has got the beer industry feeling defensive and ready for a dynamic shift. It is a drink category that, unlike cannabis- or CBD-infused beer, boasts serious numbers and a cult following. I am talking about hard seltzers. You cannot avoid the facts: alcoholic sparkling water is popular. The category now holds around 2.5 percent of the alcohol market, and hard seltzer sales in America are predicted to reach $2.5 billion US by 2021. Simultaneously, according to recent surveys, millennials and Gen Z are drinking less beer. It is no wonder, then, that breweries both big and small now make their own hard seltzer. This allows them to stay relevant and make seemingly easy cash in a growing market. Budweiser, for instance, announced its new line of hard seltzers during the Super Bowl with an ad featuring famed musician Post Malone. Boston Beer Company, who makes Samuel Adams Beer, is number two in the US market with Truly Hard Seltzer. Meanwhile in Canada, Waterloo Brewing, Muskoka Brewery and Collective Arts all produce spirited water beverages in a variety of fruity flavours.
Launched in 2016, White Claw is a hard seltzer put out by Mark Anthony Brands, a parent company of Mike’s Hard Lemonade. With a staggering 275 percent growth in volume sales just a year, White Claw quickly became the industry leader and now accounts for more than half of the US hard seltzer market. White Claw has now launched in Canada, completing the brand’s North American takeover. The hype around White Claw is what differentiates the drink from its competitors. White Claw is particularly popular with the young hipster crowd and has achieved a cultlike status similar to its non-alcoholic counterpart LaCroix. Millennials have marched under the banner of “Ain’t no laws when you’re drinking Claws.” I have tasted a number of hard seltzers including White Claw. They are enjoyable and the knowledge entry point is lower than that of beer, so you will not hear anything like: “This is brewed with crystal malt, Belgian yeast and four different kinds of hops.” “This tastes like [insert fruit flavour here]” sums up all you need to know about hard seltzer. But will it replace beer? I don’t think so. But it is another dry fizzy option to keep in mind. × FALL 2020 9
WHERE DO WE GO FROM HERE? by Tod Stewart
I had to do it. Okay, I didn’t have to do it. But every now and again, an opportunity presents itself that compels one to act, despite the fact that the more “refined” part of the brain is leaning otherwise. I’m not big on photos of myself. I don’t believe I’ve ever taken a selfie. So suggesting to a complete female stranger that she have her picture taken with me was not a proposition I was entering into lightly. I actually had to ask the fellow beside me (who just happened to be a professional photographer) to not only take the shot, but also to ask the focus of my attention to concede to be photographed with me. Not even a few rum cocktails could quell my nervousness. “No problem,” he responded cheerfully. “I do this all the time!” 10 FALL 2020
The photo of me and Miss Universe Barbados is one I’ve subjected many (read, all) of my male friends to. I just wanted to show them the sorts of distracting hazards I’m often faced with while doing “research” for stories. I typically knock off the “It’s a tough job but …” schtick at about the same time I’m met with their stony finish-that-line-and-you-die glares. There are (far) worse places to be in late October than Barbados, at the official residence of the Prime Minister of the island, where I am on this swel-
tering tropical evening. Cooling myself with various rum-based drinks, and savouring a range of gourmet delicacies prepared by a bevy of talented chefs, I’m thinking that it’s too bad it’s my last night here. This event, dubbed “Epicure: An Evening of Elegance,” wraps up my experiences at Barbados’ 10th annual Food and Rum Festival. Over the course of five gloriously warm and sunny days, I’ve been immersed (with no protest whatsoever) in an unparalleled gustatory onslaught. Yes, the
things like the whole grilled red snapper I devoured on my second night out. Looking for something more upscale? Consider Hugo’s Restaurant, one of the island’s newer oceanside temples of taste. Locally caught, pan-seared barracuda is but one of the dishes you probably won’t experience in Canada. Or just hit up some of the many food trucks and local haunts, like The Village Bar, for some more traditional Bajan bites. Also, be sure to check out some of the “rum shops” that are everywhere on the island. Though referred to as “shops,” they are essentially bars that range from tiny huts to more sizeable establishments. The drill is simple: pick your rum, pick your mix, pick your seat and pick up a conversation or a game of dominos. While distillates derived from sugar cane may have evolved in other places earlier in history, Barbados is generally given the nod as the birthplace of rum. There’s a ton of information out there on the history and growth of the Barbados rum industry for anyone with an internet connection. It’s a fascinating — and at times, pretty convoluted — story. My interest in the distillers of Barbados rum was more focused on the present day: Who are the players? What makes them unique? What challenges are they facing, and what are they doing to address them? CURRENTLY, THERE ARE FOUR OPERATIONAL RUM DISTILLERIES ON THE ISLAND. The one likely most recognized
island’s beaches, warm waters, friendly people and outstanding choices of accommodation (I’ve been staying at the amazing Ocean Two Resort — experiencing all the aforementioned pleasures) are what typically draw people here, but for the gourmand, there are also some serious culinary adventures to be had. Try dinner on the beach at the funky/ chic La Cabane, where fresh local ingredients are combined with live drumming (and maybe even a fire eater) for a deliciously entertaining experience. Want to try some of the freshest fish and seafood on the planet? Check out the Oistins Fish Fry, where locals and visitors gather to rub elbows and indulge in succulent swimming
by Canadians — and perhaps by the rest of the world as well — is Mount Gay. Founded in 1703, it’s the world’s oldest rum distillery (or at least the one with documentation going back far enough to trace its lineage). There is also the Foursquare Rum Distillery, St. Nicholas Abbey and West Indies Rum Distillery Ltd, the island’s largest distillery. Mount Gay and St. Nicholas Abbey produce rums under their own respective names, while Foursquare and West Indies distill a range of brands, including the former’s Doorly’s and Old Brigand, and the latter’s Plantation Rum and Cockspur labels. I had the opportunity to talk to representatives from all of these distilleries (well, almost, but we’ll get to that) to find out what makes Barbados rum unique. First, though, a bit of a generalized comment on the style of Barbados rum.
Most of what you come across when trying to nail down what the “Barbados rum style” is all about suggests that it is not as “heavy” as, say, 100 percent pot still rum from Jamaica, not as earthy as sugar cane juice agricoles, and not as light as the style of brands like Bacardí or Havana Club. Well, okay, I guess. The Barbados rums I’ve enjoyed typically have a certain “finesse” to them. However, this isn’t to suggest that they are not without power. A lot depends on the type of stills used (pot or column) and, of course, the final style the master distiller is hoping to achieve (not to mention barrel types, aging time, etc.). Perhaps a comment from someone who actually uses Barbados rum as a component in its company’s rum blends might be able to sum things up. Grisa Soba, co-founder of Flaviar, whose company blends the Larga Vida brand states that “the pot-still-distilled Barbados rum adds some serious whisky quality to the character of Larga Vida. If Jamaican rum contributes funk, fun and reggae to the blend, then Barbados is adding depth, balance and some grownup seriousness that can be recognized in flavour notes such as oak and cinnamon.” In any case, one of Foursquare’s pot-distilled, cask strength numbers isn’t going to have a whole lot in common with Mount Gay Eclipse Silver. And the cane syrup-based spirits from St. Nicholas Abbey will have a different profile than both of them. If there’s anything that all the island’s rums share, it is their basic raw ingredients: cane sugar (in whatever form) and local water (and yeast, of course, but I see that as more of a catalyst than an ingredient). As in the production of any fine spirit, crafting top-quality rum requires an untainted water source. This presents no issues for the island’s distilleries. The fact that Barbados’ substrate is coral limestone rather than volcanic rock makes for exceptionally pure local water. “One of the things that makes our rum most unique is our water,” explains Raphäel Grisoni, Managing Director of Mount Gay. “Barbados water is coral-filtered and we’ve been using the same well since the distillery was founded in 1703. Our original artisanal well carries its own unique minerals that create the ideal environment for our proprietary yeasts and molasses during fermentation.” FALL 2020 11
OWNER LARRY WARREN GIVING A TOUR OF ST. NICHOLAS ABBEY
“Barbados is famous for its water from underground limestone aquifers,” Richard Seale, Master Distiller at Foursquare confirms, adding that his distillery “is located on one of best on the Island.” The Caribbean is world famous for its sugar cane fields, making the other main spirit ingredient — fermentable sugar — pretty easy to come by. At St. Nicholas Abbey, a supply of cane sugar is literally right outside the distillery doors. “We are proud to say that we grow our own cane, and more specifically, our own varieties, which historically were used within the sugar cane industry but due to mechanization are no longer grown,” reveals the distillery’s Larry Warren, whose family purchased the estate, including its sugar cane fields, in 2006. “The sugar cane we cultivate is a high-sucrose, low-fibre variety known as B80689. The ‘B’ is for Barbados as we still have a very well-established sugar cane breeding station that is world renowned.” 12 FALL 2020
Seale at Foursquare also counts on the fields of St. Nicholas Abbey to provide him with cane juice. He also uses locally produced and imported molasses, while Mount Gay sources molasses from Barbados as well as other Caribbean locations. The reason for this is specific, not just necessary. “Local Barbadian molasses tend to have a higher sugar content, and our soils are also alkaline, which brings acidity to the cane and imparts flavour in the molasses,” notes Grisoni. “Our Caribbean molasses contain different minerals, so the ability to use the two [types] gives a great balance. We are very strict with how we work with our molasses, which is why we use a specific molasses for pot still distillation and another for column. The results yield a low level of sweetness and a persistence of flavour.” However, there is a “necessary” issue as well. Producers like Mount Gay may be
facing some future challenges given the state of molasses production. “Today, molasses in no longer available in stable qualities,” informs Warren who, as mentioned, doesn’t use molasses for the St. Nicholas Abbey rums. “This trend will continue as sugar factories become more efficient and modernized.” Obviously, this could be a problem for molasses-based rum producers in general, and specifically those looking to use locally sourced molasses. In a very detailed 2017 paper entitled “Barbados in the Rum Global Value Chain,” (my copy flagged “final draft for review”), authors Danny Hamrick and Karina Fernandez-Stark of Duke University’s Global Value Chains Center note that the “decline of bulk sugar production in the country threatens molasses supply,” and that this “weakness” in turn, leads to the “threat” of decreased molasses production (“threats” and “weaknesses” combin-
× FOR COMMENTS FROM ALEXANDRE GABRIEL, FROM MAISON FERRAND, VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/DRINKS/A-CHAT-WITH-ALEXANDRE-GABRIEL/
ing with “strengths” and “opportunities” in their Barbados rum industry SWOT analysis … for those of you who didn’t go to business/marketing/acronym school). THE SIMPLE SOLUTION TO A LACK OF LOCAL MOLASSES WOULD BE TO SIMPLY IMPORT MORE FROM OTHER NEIGHBOURING ISLANDS. Yet if mo-
lasses production is declining throughout the Caribbean, this isn’t going to make for a long-term solution. Besides, if local molasses is unique due to its composition, using stuff from Guatemala (let’s say) is certainly not going to help preserve the “Barbados style” (as diverse as it may be). Which brings us to another area the Duke study focused on: building the Barbados rum “brand.” The study wasn’t referring to the respective “brands” from specific distilleries (e.g., Mount Gay Eclipse or Foursquare’s Doorly’s), but rather how consumers “relate” to the concept of “Barbados rum.” What emotional connection does the term illicit? The study argues that the Barbados rum industry — and the sugar production industry, for that matter — is disconnected, that producers are not really working together, and that the sugar industry is not overly involved in (or concerned about) the island’s rum production. Granted, I may be misinterpreting the study’s interpretation of the industry. And I may be suggesting things about the relationship among suppliers that don’t reflect reality. But humour me a bit, and let me play along with these possible realities. I’m assuming the Barbados rum industry wants to continue to grow and evolve. If so, a reliable supply of molasses will be required. St. Nicholas Abbey may, to an extent, be exempt from the effects of a potential reduction in molasses availability, but not so with the bigger players. If “historical legacy” and “authenticity” are, as the Duke study suggests, important “branding elements” for Barbados rum, and molasses plays an important role in both the history and authenticity of Barbados rum, then maybe the importance of local molasses needs to be further recognized and its production encouraged. I’m just throwing this out there (and I’m sure the Seales, Warrens and Grisonis, should they be reading this, are collectively thinking, “Well, duh!”), but rather than
being seen as a by-product of sugar production, maybe molasses needs to be seen as a valuable product in its own right. Of course, the other factor at play is that the historical legacy and authenticity mentioned earlier needs to be preserved. This appears to be happening. Sort of. Three of the island’s four distilleries — Foursquare, Mount Gay and St. Nicholas Abbey — have agreed on the adoption of a Geographical Indication (GI) that would, among other things, require the production and aging of a spirit labelled “Barbados rum” to take place in Barbados. (Interestingly, the press release I received made no mention of using only Barbados sugar cane products.) You’ll notice I said three of the island’s four distilleries have agreed on the statutes of the GI; West Indies Rum Distillery has not. In fact, according to the relase, the group has lodged an appeal to overturn the implementation of the GI. The issue here is that some of the rums produced by this distillery are partially aged in Barbados, then shipped to France for final maturation (the distillery’s parent company is Cognac’s Maison Ferrand). This practice would violate one of the conditions of the GI. The press release also states that the rums of West Indies Rum Distillery are sweetened with the addition of sugar syrup, also a no-no under the GI rules. As I prepare to file this story, I am still awaiting a response from Maison Ferrand’s Alexandre Gabriel to hear his company’s side of the story. (In fact, I did receive one. See the link at the bottom of page 12.) In the meantime, if a united front of distilleries is one of the conditions identified by the Duke researchers as necessary for ongoing growth and success of the Barbados rum industry, the apparent rift between West Indies Rum Distillery and the rest of the group could be problematic. Or not. West Indies can do what it wants to do, but some of its rums may have to be labelled products of France rather than of Barbados. Personally, I’m not sure how the desires of one distillery can detract from the valid (I think) wishes of the other three. But politics being what it is, you never know. West Indies is, it should be noted, the largest distiller on the island. In any case, pour yourself a few shots of Barbados rum and stay tuned; interesting times appear to be ahead. ×
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FOR WINES THAT DELIVER by Konrad Ejbich
One grape, 100-year-old vines, 1,000 terrestrial expressions. Ribera del Duero is the wine lover’s dream region The most famous wine of Spain is, unquestionably, Rioja. We all know it. Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva. Everyday wine, Sunday-dinner wine, special-occasion wine. Classic red wines, vinified the same way for more than 150 years. When the phylloxera vastatrix infestation began to devastate French vineyards in the mid-1860s, many Bordeaux winemakers fled to the nearest unaffected region — some across the Pyrenees into Spain, stopping in Rioja in the Ebro river basin. Although a strong wine industry had already existed there since the Middle Ages, Bordeaux winemakers brought with them modern techniques of quality control that soon became the standard, and which have been a tradition for the past 100 years. But had those fellows pushed just a few more kilometres beyond the next mountain range — the Picos de Urbión — they 14 FALL 2020
would have come upon the headwaters of the Rio Duero. Here begins the river’s roughly 900-kilometre course to the Atlantic, across the massive Iberian plateau and through a number of vast and arid wine-growing regions, starting with Ribera del Duero, through Rueda, Toro, Tierra del Vino de Zamora and Arribes, before ultimately draining into Portugal, where it is called the Douro as it enters the famous port wine zone. The closest region to the river’s source is Ribera del Duero, which means “banks of the river Duero,” a sprawling region situated 160 kilometres due north of Madrid or, as our lead-footed van driver half-joked, “only an hour away.” This is by no means an emerging region. Grapes have been cultivated here since pre-Roman times, although for centuries under Muslim occupation, they were only to be eaten as food. In the 12th century, during the Reconquista, when the Moors were slowly being pushed out of the Iberian Peninsula, Benedictine monks from Burgundy came to spread the Christian faith. They also brought with them new knowledge of viticulture and winemaking experience. Ribera del Duero is a flat, rocky, gently undulating terrain, averaging 800 metres above sea level, with peaks as high as 1,050 metres. At such a high altitude, the diurnal temperature difference is wild, with scorching summer temperatures peaking at 44˚C and nights dipping to 12˚C. Winter lows can drop to -20˚C. Perhaps that’s why the Tempranillo grape, known locally as Tinto Fino or Tinto del País, is such a natural here. It adapts well to the extreme temperatures of the region and needs no mixing with other varieties to produce an exciting, balanced wine. Some producers do blend in small amounts of other varieties, such a Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec or, most commonly, Garnacha Tinta, a.k.a. Grenache Noir. THE OFFICIAL DO RIBERA DEL DUERO ENCOMPASSES 115 KILOMETRES OF THE RIVER’S MEANDERING PATH AND 10 TO 20 KILOMETRES OF WIDTH ON EITHER SIDE. The main
east–west highway (N-122) cuts through the region but visitors would be wise to slow down for the dozens of tiny towns and villages along the way. It’s revealing to see how quickly micro-climates change and nuances appear in soil composition from town to town and from valley to hillside. Long before the region was officially granted DO status in 1982, there was Vega Sicilia. The famous winery was founded in 1864 by upstart winemaker Don Eloy Lecanda y Chaves, who trained in Bordeaux and brought Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot cuttings home to plant alongside Tempranillo. Using the blending techniques he’d learned in France, he created a wine so tough that it was only released after a decade and which could be cellared for many years. The wine was highly lauded by the top-hat set and soon established a new benchmark style for the region. Ribera del Duero wines have long followed the classifications of Rioja. Crianza are aged one year in barrel and one in bottle prior to release. Reserva must be aged at least one year
BODEGA CONVENTO SAN FRANCISCO CRIANZA 2016 ($22)
Solid, dense, powerful wine with dark fruit, thick supple texture and long-lasting, deeply flavoured finish. This delicious Tempranillo blend will make exceptional drinking through 2025. BODEGA MARTÍN BERDUGO CRIANZA 2013 ($25)
Silky tannins and bright, fresh, dark fruits dance together in this lovely young wine. Generous and supple with delicious vanilla-cocoa complexity and an elegant, oak-touched finish. BODEGA MARTÍN BERDUGO RESERVA 2010 ($38)
Robust, full-bodied and intensely complex, with glorious aromas of blackberry and plum. Savoury, flavoury and complex with depth, polish and finesse. Winery owner Antonio Diez Martín recommends grilled lamb as the perfect match. BODEGA TINTO PESQUERA CRIANZA 2016 ($34)
One of the flagship brands of the region. 100% Tempranillo. Fragrant with rich black cherry and plum aromas along with violet and tobacco notes. Excellent concentration, good length and solid, spicy finish. BODEGAS LÓPEZ CRISTÓBAL ROBLE 2017 ($21)
Roble means “oaked,” but for less time than Crianza. So much fruit! Billowing aromas and flavours. Soft edges on a young wine with potent, juvenile red and black fruit, liquorice and fresh-cracked black pepper. Sweet, soft and delightful. Terrific value here. BODEGAS TORRES CÉLESTE CRIANZA 2016 ($22)
From high-altitude vineyards. Bright garnet-blue with quite an intense nose of wild blackberry and blueberry and a rich, fleshy palate highlighting bold flavours of toast and jam with a side of black coffee. Nice vanilla-oak note with balanced smooth tannins. BODEGAS TORRES CÉLESTE RESERVA 2015 ($35)
Crianza squared. Inky garnet-red hue is the first clue to this wine’s density. Concentrated fruit, fresh and dried plum, black cherry with a solid mouthfeel, velvety texture, firm oaky tannins and an impressively long finish. Best at 5 to 8 years, but could go 20 in a good cellar. DOMINIO DE PINGUS 2018 ($1,500)
OMG! Super-dense inky colour. Luxurious, super-concentrated black-fruit nose. Closed, thick, intense and focused. An iron fist in a velvet glove. Very long, very dense aftertaste of fruit, earth, spices and stony minerals with little sense of the well-integrated tannins. FALL 2020 15
PETER SISSECK FROM PINGUS
in oak and released only after three years. Gran Reserva must be aged a minimum of two years in barrel and may only be released at five years of age. Under local rules, wines can also be labelled Joven or Roble. Joven are young wines often less than a year old with no oak contact. Roble are wines that been aged briefly in oak and require notation on the label as to how many months (mesas) they spent in barrel. The tight grip on styles began to change in the late 1970s after Peñafiel farmer Alejandro Fernández converted his fields from beets to grapes and established Bodega Tinto Pesquera. Using only the ripest Tempranillo grapes from various parcels, he produced a fresh, bold, fruitier wine style, with great depth and complexity as well as more richness and charm. Investment in the region has grown enormously over the past few decades, some of it from foreign investment conglomerates, but much from Madrid-based entrepreneurs as well as from wise winery owners from other regions. Famiglia Torres was an early adopter, buying its first winery outside its Catalan base in 2003, in Fompedraza, south of Peñafiel. To ensure consistent grape supply, the company purchased a nearby hilltop vineyard at 900 metres. The site was so bright 16 FALL 2020
and starry at night, Miguel Torres Maczassek, general manager of Bodegas Torres, named it Pago del Cielo, and his new wine, Celeste, after the “heavenly” site. In recent times, the hottest cult wine is Pingus, produced by the region’s first true “garagiste.” I could never afford the $1,500plus per bottle that it costs in Canada, so I was delighted to taste it at the winery together with founder and Danish oenologist Peter Sisseck, and his Russian-born winemaker, Julia Zhdanova. Since 1990, Sisseck has cherry-picked ancient parcels of bush vine, nurtured them biodynamically, harvested ridiculously low yields and pressed liquid magic from them. The wine is so inky-rich, dense and complex, without any doubt, Pingus 2018 is the finest Spanish wine I have ever tasted. No wonder it has captured the attention of the wine world’s elite spitterati. Global attention has had an effect. Older wineries and larger cooperatives have upped their game while new wineries are constantly being established. In 2012, Wine Enthusiast Magazine honoured Ribera del Duero as “Wine Region of the Year.” Today, there are 280 wineries in Ribera del Duero producing wines of depth, concentration, balance, finesse and longevity. They are exceptionally cellar-worthy wines that can no longer be ignored by serious wine aficionados. ×
BEING
by Tim Pawsey
THE
ONE FEW WINE REGIONS IN THE WORLD ARE DEPENDENT ON — AND RENOWNED FOR — ONE SOLE VARIETY. However,
in northwest Spain, Rías Baixas is very definitely one such region. Here, Albariño — Galicia’s flagship variety — has emerged as the only grape of consequence and it accounts for well over 90 percent of the plantings. Galicia is markedly different from the rest of Spain in just about every way imaginable. The name Rías Baixas derives, quite literally, from “the low rivers,” in reference to the four large inlets and deep estuaries that define the region. While most of Spain is warm, dry and frequently scorching, Galicia is cool, damp and often doused by Atlantic storms. It’s separated from the rest of the country by the ancient Galicean Massif, a mainly granite formation that runs north to south. Even its architecture is different, with buildings characterized by granite and stonework more reminiscent of County Cork than most of the country’s more heated interior.
Noticeable too is a preponderance of Gaelic crosses at every turn. Galicia’s westernmost point is Cape Finisterre, meaning “the end of the earth.” But it’s by no means the only point so named. There are quite a few around the globe. In this case, it marks the northwest extremity of the European continent — and a major point of contact. It’s no surprise that the region’s history and peoples have more in common with their seagoing neighbours, such as the Irish and the Cornish people from southwest of England. They’re due north of Galicia, on trading routes that date back millennia, long before today’s political boundaries were forged. It’s also no coincidence that the traditional instrument here, the Gaita, is almost identical to Scottish and Irish bagpipes. And Galicians speak and write their own language — Gallego — which bears an uncanny resemblance to Gaelic. All of this makes it easier to understand not only the importance of Albariño but also why it’s so distinct compared to other FALL 2020 17
BODEGA GARZÓN SINGLE VINEYARD ALBARIÑO 2017, URUGUAY ($31)
Brilliant gold in glass, vibrant citrus and tropical aromas with some schisty hints before a lush and rounded palate of juicy peach and pineapple with a touch of salinity. LUZADA VAL DO SALNES ALBARIÑO 2017, RÍAS BAIXAS ($16)
Forward citrus and floral notes with some orchard fruit before a bright, juicy palate with peach and zesty notes to close. STAG’S HOLLOW ALBARIÑO 2018, OKANAGAN FALLS ($21)
Citrus and tropical aromas with stone fruit and lemon curd precede a palate of bright mango and peach flavours, quite mouth-filling with some leesy notes supported by juicy acidity through a mineral, zesty finish. ATLANTIS ALBARIÑO 2018, RÍAS BAIXAS ($21)
From Condado do Tea, above the Miño, forward orchard and tropical notes, pineapple and more tropical hints on the palate with crisp acidity and a clean finish.
5 notable Rías Baixas producers to watch for: BODEGAS MARTÍN CÓDAX: Long-running,
leading producer with a strong cultural component; established in 1986 and named for a famous Galician troubadour. PAZO DE SEÑORANS: A historic estate turned winery and vineyards, whose owners were instrumental in establishing DO Rías Baixas. Also produces Orujo Albariño spirit. BENITO SANTOS: Another of the original producers who played a key role in setting up the DO. Estate-fruit grown on pergolas in mineral soils. BODEGAS TERRAS GAUDA: Major producer established in O Rosal, producing since 1990, with exports to over 45 countries. SANTIAGO RUIZ: Named for its founder, who’s widely credited with truly establishing Albariño as the regional variety in the 1980s. The bodega founded by his grandfather dates from 1860.
Spanish wines — which, in most people’s minds, tend be red anyway (and if not red, then, possibly, sherry). Albariño’s star wasn’t always in the ascent. Prior to the 1980s, the grape was often grown wild — sometimes winding its way around trees — and usually just blended in with other varieties to make, not surprisingly, unremarkable wines. The same was true south of the Miño River, in Portugal, where Alvarinho was equally prolific, and similarly uninspiring. With increased interest in Albariño around the world, a new generation of growers felt strongly that the variety deserved more than to just be blended away as jug wine. They went to work making distinctive wines, which began to receive recognition in international wine circles. Their efforts led to the creation of the Denominación Específica Albariño in 1980, formalized as Denominación de Origen (DO) Rías Baixas under the EU in 1988. Then came the delineation of three sub-regions within Pontevedra province (Val do Salnés, Condado do Tea and O Rosal), followed by Soutomaior (1996) and Ribeira do Ulla (2000). The major thrust of the DO regulations requires that only Albariño grapes be used, which had the eventual effect of doing away with blended wines, thus placing the variety firmly on the road to success. That wasn’t the case, however, in Portugal, which continued to use Alvarinho primarily for Vinho Verde, except in Monçao and Melgaço, on the south shore of the Miño, where it too is made as an increasingly recognized varietal wine. Like so many grapes, Albariño’s true origins aren’t clear. Some have suggested a link to Riesling or to Petit Manseng, among others. Most likely, however, it was introduced in the 12th Century by French Cluny monks at the Monastery of Santa María de Armenteira, not far from historic Pontevedra, on the Camino Trail. Although, possibly, it’s been here even longer, as others point to evidence of its cultivation dating back over a thousand years. Albariño is notable for its stone fruit and citrus aromatics and flavours, often with mineral undertones, and frequently showing a subtle hint of marine air or even quiet salinity, all of which add up to make it a shoo-in to pair with Galicia’s abundance of fresh seafood, which is arguably some of the best anywhere in the world. There are few better ways to appreciate the grape than served in an oceanside café, alongside a lunch of pulpo (“octopus”), whole fish usually prepared two ways (grilled and baked) or platters of mussels, razor clams, oysters, goose barnacles and more. For each and every one, Albariño makes a perfect match. THE GRAPE’S SUCCESS AND PROLIFERATION OVER THE YEARS HAILS FROM ITS ABILITY TO RIPEN AND THRIVE IN THE MOIST ATLANTIC AIR THAT TYPIFIES GALICIA AND RÍAS BAIXAS. Another important distinction: it’s traditionally
trellised on pergolas, which elevates the vines well off the ground to thwart mildew and introduce circulation. They’re also made of cement — which, importantly, doesn’t rot — and make the vines more accessible for pruning, thinning and harvesting, and are usually high enough to permit a tractor to pass underneath. Even though the recent arrival of larger plantings, especially more inland, has seen a shift towards “modern” typical post18 FALL 2020
SANTIAGO RUIZ’S ROSA RUIZ
and-wire trellis systems, there’s still plenty of support for — and belief in — the original system. The pergola also fits well with the idea of a more balanced ecosystem. Small holders of, say under an acre, find additional uses for the ground below, such as raising chickens. Their estimated numbers range as high as 20,000, with 1,000 supplying Martín Códax alone. In much of Rías Baixas, the pergola still rules, and for good reason. Albariño’s emergence has not gone unnoticed elsewhere, especially in the New World, where plantings have taken hold in several regions. What’s driving the interest varies. Several New Zealand producers, including Villa Maria, Kono, Neudorf, Matua, Sileni and others, now produce single-variety Albariño bottlings. No doubt it’s all part of a move that finds producers looking for alternatives to Sauvignon Blanc. Luminary and Master of Wine Bob Campbell, writing on TheRealReview.com, notes “In the past four years, the fastest-growing grape variety in New Zealand is Albariño. This Spanish grape variety has grown a whopping 27.2 percent in that time. Chenin blanc is in second place with an 11.8 percent growth rate. The crisp acidity, potentially rich texture and bright floral and citrus flavours of Albariño make it a great match for most seafood dishes. I think it’s a winner ...” Indeed, with its wide array of maritime-influenced viticulture, New Zealand would seem to be a natural second home for Albariño.
On the other side of the southern hemisphere, Uruguay’s Bodega Garzón is also doing well with Abariño, in a style that mirrors its Galician counterpart more closely than some others. It was the first variety planted here, as consultant Alberto Antonini recognized similarities in the oceanside terroir. Albariño is also becoming more common in North America, with plantings stretching from California (including in Santa Ynez, Clarksburg, Napa, Edna Valley and Los Carneros) north to Oregon’s Umpqua Valley (where it was introduced by Abacela some 20 years ago), as well as in Willamette, and also to the Okanagan. Here, its early adopters include Terravista Vineyards (on the Naramata Bench), where Bob and Senka Tennant planted the variety in 2008. They were followed more recently by Stag’s Hollow, which grows Albariño in its Shuttleworth Creek (Okanagan Falls) vineyard. Stag’s Hollow winemaker Keira LeFranc says the variety grows beautifully, so much so that it’s important to keep the vigour in check. “Stylistically it leans towards a fuller, riper style, with tension and acidity. But what I love about it is the texture that the concrete [fermenter] brings to the wine,” says LeFranc. No doubt, as more winemakers discover Albariño’s potential and viticulturists experiment accordingly, in time, it can only benefit the home team. And help place Galicia far more obviously and very deservedly on the world wine map. × FALL 2020 19
THE RISE OF CORPINNAT
by Treve Ring
In the sea of Cava, what surges? Imagine you are making small-batch sparkling wine on a very specific, tiny, protected island in a giant sea of Cava. Your little protected island — let’s call it a vineyard — is special for the age of its vines, its soils, its aspect, its terroir. It’s a very distinct place, and your wines, made with respect of place, naturally, are quite individual. Compare that to the rising tide of Cava, reaching every corner of the globe, with geographical delimitation understood only as “Spain.” Cava, like so many other popular wines before it, became a victim of its own success. The category moved from a place to a style to a brand, skipping out important details along the way like provenance, viticulture and vinification. It’s the same story for many wine regions around the world, including that other shining C sparkler, Champagne. Large-scale success encourages overproduction, and breeds dilution. Demand for product feeds competition, and fuels the price race, typically straight to the bottom. 20 FALL 2020
TON MATA, 3RD GENERATION OF RECAREDO FAMILY.
FROM ROOTS TO GROCERY SHELVES
The Spanish word cava (feminine, plural cavas, although cava as wine is masculine) means “cave” or “cellar,” as caves were used historically for the preservation of wine. Spanish winemakers officially adopted the term in 1970 to distinguish their product from Champagne, as the wines were referred to as Spanish Champagne at that time. Catalan sparkling wine was first made as early as 1851, though the roots of the Cava industry can be traced back to Josep Raventós’ sales calls through Europe in the 1860s, when he was promoting the still wines of Codorníu Winery. Visits to Champagne sparked his interest in the potential of a Spanish wine made using the same traditional method. He created his first sparkler in 1872, after the vineyards of Penedès were devastated by phylloxera, and white grape vines replaced the region’s predominantly red vines. Created in 1972, the Cava DO (Denominación de origen) produces around 250 million bottles of sparkling wine a year. The majority of that production, an estimated 80 percent, is concentrated among three companies: Freixenet, Codorníu and García Carrión. Two of the three giants are owned by foreign markets: the German company Henkell now controls 50.7 percent of Freixenet, and the American Carlyle Group, also private equity owners of the behemoth Accolade wine group, owns 68 percent of Codorníu. The trio’s dominance, of course, comes not without battles for the top of the podium. Price wars are common, and their flagship wines carry an average price of around $15 a bottle, and that’s at a high-priced market. You can find Cava on UK grocery shelves for £5 a bottle (less than $9), cementing Cava’s budget bubble status. Considering that DO Cava’s regulations require that the wine be made following the traditional method, with a minimum of nine months on the lees, and using a restrictive set of quality grapes (Macabeo/Viura, Xarel·lo, Parellada, Malvasia and Chardonnay for whites, and Garnacha tinta, Monastrell, Pinot Noir and Trepat for reds), the current prices seem impossibly unsustainable. This most recently came to light after the 2019 harvest, with the price of grapes for DO Cava wines plummeting to €0.30/kg, leading to riots and strikes challenging the Consejo Regulador. Price aside, the most limiting factor for producers making sparkling wines of place is that DO Cava barely limits geography at all. Provided the wines are made in accordance with the appellation’s specifications, wines from a wide range of regions
throughout Spain can be classified as Cava. The supra-regional DO Cava is based in its Catalunya heartland, but also extends to some parts of Castilla y León, La Rioja, Extremadura, Euskadi, Aragon, Navarra and Valencia. The DO Cava is so wide ranging that it includes nearly 30 of Spain’s more than 80 DOs, and stretches almost 1,000 kilometres in distance from its farthest points. Defying the effect of terroir, these regions experience deeply varied climates, soils, altitude and traditions. The expansive area of the DO was certainly critical for producing ample quantities of wine and Cava’s subsequent flooding of global markets. However, for those producing, and seeking, wines of place, the category has become meaningless. The Cava Regulatory Board was aware of strong currents of malcontent, and created a new category for single-estate sparkling wines in 2017, Cava de Paraje Calificado (CPC). This new category focused on single-vineyard designations, and imposed lower yields and longer aging periods. However, CPC designations were permitted to both large and small producers, and were wine specific. It meant that particular wines were granted CPC status, while the rest of a winery’s production could remain as DO Cava. It was a positive step forward, and new pinnacle atop the DO Cava pyramid, but for those producers entrenched in their terroir, it wasn’t nearly enough. FALL 2020 21
XAVIER GRAMONA
THE PARTING OF THE “C”S AND THE SWELL OF CORPINNAT
Formed in 2015, and ratified by the EU in late 2017, the Association of Wine Producers and Growers Corpinnat was officially launched in the spring of 2018. This sparkling-wine association takes into account the entire production of a producer rather than just individual wines. Founding members included six of the most important names of the DO Cava: Gramona, Nadal, Sabaté i Coca (Castellroig), Llopart, Recaredo and Torelló. Since then, Mas Candí, Huguet de Can Feixes, Júlia Bernet and Can Descregut have joined, the latter only in January 2020, making the collective currently 10 strong. Conspicuously absent is legendary terroir-ist Raventós i Blanc, the first and most strongly felt producer to leave the DO Cava in 2012. Since then, the winery has continued to produce its ageworthy and remarkable sparkling wines solo, in the Conca del Riu Anoia, a small geographical area within the region of Penedès that is not (yet) legally recognized as a DO. Each Corpinnat producer was forced to formally leave the DO Cava, as the Regulatory Board considers both brands incompatible on one label. Corpinnat producers are no longer allowed to use the terms Cava, Paraje Calificado or Gran Reserva on their bottles. Corpinnat was born of two concepts: cor (“heart”), referring to the heartland in Catalunya where Spain’s first sparkling wines began more than 130 years ago, and pinnat from the Lat22 FALL 2020
in word pinnae, documented in the 10th Century as penetense, and the root name for Penedès. In order to be Corpinnat, and once a winery is accepted into the group, wines must come from 100 percent organic, sustainable, hand-harvested vineyards. These vineyards, and the wines, must be made within the defined Corpinnat territory, one of the 39 municipalities in the most historic area of Penedès. Furthermore, the wines must be entirely vinified on the winery’s premises, aged for a minimum of 18 months and must contain a minimum of 90 percent indigenous grapes, defined by the group as Xarel·lo, Macabeu, Parellada and Malvasia for whites, and Garnacha, Monastrell, Sumoll and Xarel·lo Vermell for reds. Grapes can be sourced from independent growers, though these farmers must be paid a minimum rate that is significantly higher than what the DO Cava requires, ensuring sustainable farming practices and livelihoods. The Corpinnat collective markets the wines together and independently, and maintains a shared website (www.corpinnat. com) profiling the producers and outlying the regulations. As the group’s ranks grow, and new vintages are released, it may take some time to regularly see Corpinnat on labels and shelves, but when you do, you’re guaranteed to have a bottle of wine made by passionate producers, full of cor for their special place. As some of these wines were made and/or released before the official switch to Corpinnat, they are not all officially labelled as such. ×
LLOPART BRUT RESERVA ORGANIC 2014, DO CAVA ($29)
Toasted almonds, biscotti, lightly smoked stone and cider apples stream through this salty, racy Cava. The finish vibrates with lingering ripples along the palate. The typical trio — Macabeo, Xarel·lo and Parellada — from four estate vineyards, spent 18 months on the lees. Eight g/l RS just rounds off some of the sharp edges, leaving lots of bright, crisp fruit intact. Members of the Llopart clan are recorded as viticulturists dating back to 1385(!) at their current estate; they have been making Cava since 1887. RECAREDO TERRERS BRUT NATURE 2015, CORPINNAT ($30)
Searing acidity drives this biodynamic wine, sourced from estate vineyards in the calcareous soils of Alt Penedès’ Bitlles Valley Highlands. You understand the soils at once, with the grip and freshness inherent in this striking fizz. I love the transparency in labelling here: this blend of Xarel·lo, Macabeo, Parellada and Monastrell was aged 39 months under cork, was disgorged on May 30, 2019, and was hand-disgorged without freezing the neck (due to aging under cork rather than crown cap), with no dosage. Green apple, lemon pith, earthy yeast, broken stones are tight on the taut, humming palate, gripped with chalk on the sides and finishes with a brisk astringency on the bone-dry palate. Fantastic energy. SABATÉ I COCA RESERVA FAMILIA BRUT NATURE 2011, DO CAVA DE PARAJE CALIFICADO ($45)
The fourth generation of the Sabaté i Coca family cares for this 40-hectare estate in the River Bitlles valley, and this single-parcel wine, their flagship, is from 90+ year-old Xarel·lo vines in limestone-studded Terroja (terra rosa = “red clay”) soils. One third of the wine was native-fermented in chestnut barrels, where it remained for 3 to 4 months prior to resting for 50 months sur lattes (stored on their side). Dusty stones, red apple, pink-perfumed florals and nougat are framed with a great stony presence and seasoned with anise. Quite savoury and profound, feeling the weight of its soils and concentration of the old vines. Disgorged December 2018. GRAMONA III LUSTROS BRUT NATURE 2012, CORPINNAT ($35)
From the biodynamically farmed 22.5 ha Finca Font de Jui, and single 130m altitude La Plana vineyard sloping alongside the Anoia River, this Xarel·lo and Macabeo blend spent 84 months on the lees, under cork. Deeply toasty, with a big presence filled with dusty stone, light and tight grapefruit, wild rosemary, biscuity lees and lemon pith. Riveting acidity holds this quenching wine long on the palate. Quite complete.
FALL 2020 23
BEYOND
PROVENCE by Michelle Bouffard
Standing in the rosé section of the liquor store, I am wondering if producers have forgotten about all of the colours of the rainbow.
24 FALL 2020
The labels are different but there is one shade that stands out: very pale peach. Most people associate this beautiful hue with the delicate, dry style of Provence rosé. The region is known for its light and sophisticated style of pink wine, which has gained incredible popularity all over the world in the last decade. Some anthropologists, like Richard C. Delerins, partly associate this rise to millennial pink and the image it represents for younger drinkers: the dream of the seaside, spontaneity and the importance of embracing life, #YOLO. Its success has been so striking that regions initially known for a different style of rosé have started to imitate the Provençal style, rather than perfecting what makes their own rosé unique. While I understand the temptation to spike sales, I think it’s unfortunate. Just like with white or red wine, there are many styles of rosé to be celebrated, each offering a distinctive expression and suited to different occasions and moods. It’s impossible to list them all in one article but I am hoping that putting the spotlight on a few favourites will inspire you to explore from time to time. If the delicate style of rosé from Côtes de Provence, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence and Coteaux Varois en Provence continues to play the leading role, the small appellation of Bandol, also located in the region of Provence, crafts premium, complex rosé that’s full of character. Planted on
south-facing terraces not far from the sea, Mourvèdre finds a happy home in Bandol. The grape is typically blended with Grenache and Cinsault, and together, they produce serious and structured, pale-salmon-coloured rosé with aromas of dried herbs, orange peel and grapefruit complemented by a pleasant, salty tang. One needs to try a young version from Domaine Tempier and then open the same wine five years later to understand how profound these rosés can be. With time, they reveal their real depth. Domaine du Gros’Noré is another great producer to seek out. Keeping with the theme of personality, the dry and pigmented rosés of Tavel are not meant to sip by the pool while you are reading your favourite book. Rather, they shine at the table. Thanks to its 2,700 hours of sunshine a year and dry climate, this Southern Rhône region produces generous and full-bodied wines, made mostly from Grenache and Cinsault, which often reach 14 percent ABV. They too can age for a few years. With time, they develop pleasant almond aromas. Domaine de la Mordorée is the producer that made me realize how fantastic Tavel’s wines can be. Ratatouille is a classic match, but Peking duck is an absolute must try. Don’t be scared: the deep pink colour with an orange hue doesn’t promise sugar; Tavel is always dry. (Colour is not an indication of whether a wine is dry or sweet.) Staying in France, I feel compelled to talk about Cabernet d’Anjou. While sweet rosés hailing from some of the New World regions like California have been popular with some consumers, they have also tarnished the reputation of the sweeter style of rosé. It’s always a good reminder that, rather than looking at the residual sugar of a wine, one should pay attention to the balance between fruit, acid and sugar. Let’s not forget that some of the most complex German Rieslings have residual sugar. In the Loire Valley, Cabernet d’Anjou, which is made from Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, has fallen off the drinker’s radar and its slightly sweet profile has not been helping. Yet, despite the residual sugar (min of 10g/l), Cabernet d’Anjou is serious rosé with beautiful wild strawber-
CHÂTEAU D’AQUÉRIA 2018, TAVEL AOC ($24)
Dark cherry-red hue. Dry with generous ripe aromas of wild strawberries, orange zest, marzipan and dried herbs. Full body and good structure with grapefruit zest that compensates for softer acid. Meant to be enjoyed with food. Ratatouille is the classic but I love Tavel with beef tartare. PASCAL JOLIVET ATTITUDE 2018, VAL DE LOIRE IGP ($19)
One third Pinot Noir, one third Cabernet Franc, one third Gamay. Pale coral hue. A dry, light-bodied rosé with a nice palate where notes of bread dough, mushroom, redcurrant and red cherries are in symbiosis. Fruit-driven; simple but pleasing. LOPEZ DE HEREDIA VIÑA TONDONIA 2009, RIOJA GRAN RESERVA DOC ($65)
The dark salmon hue is a testament to the age of the wine. Full body with stunning, complex palate made of oxidative rancio notes of almond and orange peel with a rounded edge and subtle integrated notes of coconut from American oak. Great freshness despite its developed character, offering the great paradox of age and youth in the same bottle. Long, lingering finish. One of the most complex rosado I’ve had. Made to sing with paella but a delight with Peking duck. TIBERIO 2018, CERASUOLO D’ABRUZZO ($25)
Vines averaging 57 years old are planted at 350 m beneath the Majella and Gran Sasso mountains in Abruzzo. Beautiful dark cherry hue. Dry with charming, abundant red and sour cherry fruit structured by chalky tannins with fresh acid and a pleasant bitter finish. Savoury and delicious on a hot summer day with roasted pig or grilled lamb. CHARLES MELTON ROSE OF VIRGINIA 2018, BAROSSA ($25)
Dark ruby hue. Full body with just a little hint of residual sugar balanced by fresh acid and generous, rich notes of strawberries, red cherries and red plum. Definitely made for the rosé lover who enjoys a more flamboyant and fruity style. ESPRIT GASSIER LIMITED NIGHT EDITION 2018, CÔTES DE PROVENCE AOC ($21)
Pretty pale peach hue. Dry with delicate notes of wild strawberries, grapefruit and orange blossom marked by bread dough with a pleasant salty tang on the finish. Light body with creamy texture and fresh acid. Enjoy on its own or with salmon gravlax and a pea shoot salad. CHÂTEAU DES SARRINS 2017, CÔTES DE PROVENCE AOC ($27)
The proof that rosé can keep and that even a Côtes de Provence is not too old after a couple of years in the bottle. Pretty pale peach hue. Dry with a profile made of orange peel, grapefruit and almond with a little bit more character than one would imagine from a delicate Côtes de Provence. With time, age brings out personality.
FALL 2020 25
EMIDIO PEPE
ry and red fruit notes with brisk acidity that balances the residual sugar. The best ones can be put away in the cellar for a few years. I especially like them as an aperitif, but they are also fantastic with spicy Chinese and Korean food. Rosé d’Anjou offers a lesser serious version meant to be drunk young and is usually made with Grolleau. Going farther east in the Loire Valley, Sancerre rosé exudes the magic of Pinot Noir with its elegance and purity. Domaine Vacheron, Alphonse Mellot and François Cotat are great choices. From the Veneto region, where you can quench your thirst with Chiaretto Bardolino, all the way to the southern dry and fertile land of Puglia, where rich and dark rosés are made from Negroamaro, Italy crafts all shades of rosé. One particular appellation I kept reaching for last year was Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. Made mostly of Montepulciano (the appellation allows other grapes up to a maximum of 15 percent), this dark pink wine is dry with generous fruit contained by a tannic structure and balanced by a pleasant savoury bitterness. If served in a dark glass, you would find yourself navigating somewhere be26 FALL 2020
tween a white and a red. Those made by famous producers Valentini and Emidio Pepe are in high demand. However, it’s the talented hand of Cristiana Tiberio that made me fall in love. Made from Montepulciano vines averaging 57 years of age, her Cerasuolo is full of character with an irresistible charm. It proved to be the ideal wine to sip while eating roasted lamb on a sunny summer afternoon at a friend’s wedding. In the world of rosé, the ultimate example of complexity, depth and authenticity is the Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva, made by iconic producer Lopez de Heredia. The Rioja region crafts different styles that navigate between Provence wannabes and ones with personality that employ the tradition of aging in American wood for a number of years prior to release. Each sip of Lopez de Heredia speaks of history and tradition. The wine, made only in exceptional years, is aged for four years in American wood prior to being bottled and aged further in the cellar. The 2009, which was just recently released, gave me one of the most profound experiences I’ve had with a rosé.
The continued success of rosé has also inspired winemakers in New World regions to craft their own versions. Personally, I find the best ones are those that express regionality and sites rather than those that try to emulate Provence. I’ve had delicious experiences with rosés made from Grenache in McLaren Vale, Pinot Noir in the Yarra Valley, as well as Gamay and Pinot Noir in British Columbia and Ontario. The dry Vin Gris from Bonny Doon and Birichino in California continue to be regulars in my wine fridge. Winemakers often tell me that making rosé requires a unique technique that is difficult to master. I can only imagine that with time and experience, more fine examples of New World rosé will continue to appear on the shelves. The world of rosé is vast with many shades of pink and each hue has its own story to tell. These stories are composed of people and places. And each year, the tales have their own nuances written by Mother Nature. So even your favourite label may surprise you when the new vintage is released. Wine is an elixir capable of constantly whispering something new and unique. Let’s celebrate that diversity. ×
BUYING GUIDE
All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to find the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new. Afterall, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and will likely vary from province to province. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, so check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Michelle Bouffard, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Tim Pawsey, Michaela Morris, Jordan St. John, Brie Dema and Jonathan Smithe. *Available through private import and online wine clubs
SPARKLING BLUE GROUSE TRADITIONAL METHOD PAULA 2016, COWICHAN VALLEY, BC ($32)
A blend of estate grown Müller Thurgau (55%) and Pinot Gris (45%). Lively, fine bubbles and a persistent mousse. Aromas of orchard fruits and brioche hints lead to a well-balanced, textured and mouth-filling palate. Citrus, apple and creamy undertones are supported by good acidity through a lingering finish. (TP) 40 KNOTS SPINDRIFT EXTRA BRUT 2018, COMOX VALLEY, BC ($36)
Traditional method delivers a fine stream of small bubbles, a persistent mousse and some toasty and citrus notes before tart green apple and zesty pith flavours with good acidity and a dry finish. Crown cap. (TP) PET MATT LANDRUSCO 2019, NARAMATA BENCH ($39)
The latest in Okanagan Crush Pad’s Wine Campus series is a collaboration between 2019 BC Sommelier of the Year Matt Landry and OCP head winemaker Matt
Dumayne. Get past the packaging rife with irresistible puns to discover a beguiling pétillant naturel made from 100% Touriga Naçional. Lively effervescence with persistent purple mousse precedes a refreshing yet textured and structured palate. Well-balanced acidity nicely tames the raspberry tones and other wild red berry fruit with enough tannins to keep it interesting. Proceeds benefit the Dr. Peter Foundation. (TP) MALABAILA VSQ PAS DOSÉ METODO CLASSICO, NV, PIEDMONT ITALY ($58)
Fresh and floral with exotic citrus notes. Creamy texture, bright and lively with zesty lime on the persistent finish. A blend of 50% Arneis and 50% Nebbiolo that has been bottle-aged on the lees for 48 months. Ideal with tempura shrimp, sardines, squid and fresh, meaty oysters. (GB) CIPES ARIEL 2000, SOUTH KELOWNA ($110)
Originating from a slightly northwest facing slope above Okanagan Lake, this premium sparkling wine spends 17.5 years on the lees yet still displays remarkable balance and freshness. It is an organic blend of Pinot Noir (60%), Chardonnay (38%) and Pinot Meunier
(2%) disgorged in September 2019. Fruit has orchard and some tropical hints, all the while developing luscious, mouth-filling layers of creaminess and complexity, with a lingering finish. (TP)
WHITE $20 AND UNDER
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA PELEE ISLAND WINERY PINOT GRIGIO 2018, ONTARIO ($14)
Pale straw colour. Minerally, peach pit nose with a light floral note. Medium bodied, dry; white peach and Meyer lemon flavours. Sustains well on the palate. (TA) CHABERTON ESTATE BACCHUS 2018, FRASER VALLEY ($18)
From the original over-30-year-old plantings at Fraser Valley’s first winery. Citrus and floral forward nose followed by intense, juicy acidity driven by luscious lemon lime and green apple. Wrapped in a generous mouthfeel, before a vibrant and zesty citrus finish. (TP) FALL 2020 27
BUYING GUIDE CHILE SANTA CAROLINA CAROLINA SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVA 2019, LEYDA ($12)
Bright, pale straw in colour; grassy, green plum nose. Medium bodied, crisply dry, green apple, green plum and gooseberry flavours with a floral top note and lively acidity. Excellent value. (TA) FRANCE CHÂTEAU PIQUE-SEGUE MOELLEUX 2015 AC CÔTES DE MONTRAVEL ($19)
“Moelleux” means “slightly sweet”. Medium yellow. A muscular, like it or hate it nose of ripe peach and banana overlaid with rosemary and pine. Full bodied with peach, orange and honey flavours, and a hint of retsina. Drink to 2022. (RL)*
PORTUGAL QUINTA DA BARREIRA TÁGIDE 2017 DO LISBOA ($16)
Pale gold. Lots of initial citrus aromas, then smells like a fruit salad served in a florist’s shop. Medium bodied. An interesting blend: rich and grapey from the Moscatel, structured from the Chardonnay and has a slightly bitter long finish from the indigenous Arinto. A characterful wine, good with strong cheese or by itself. Drink now. (RL)* SOUTH AFRICA LE RICHE CHARDONNAY 2017, STELLENBOSCH ($19)
Bright, pale straw in colour. A toasty, spicy, apple bouquet. Medium bodied, dry, apple and lemon flavours with well-integrated oak. (TA) 28 FALL 2020
UNITED STATES SAND POINT FAMILY VINEYARDS CHARDONNAY 2017, LODI, CALIFORNIA ($16)
Spicy, pineapple bouquet with toasty oak. Full bodied, just off-dry, richly extracted melon and pear flavours. Mouth-filling and well balanced. (TA)
RECOMMENDED FRANCE CAVE LES COTEAUX GRANDE RÉSERVE 2018, CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES AOC ($15)
Full body with comforting notes of beeswax, melon, marzipan and lemon confit and a well-integrated 13.5%. The pleasant bitterness on the finish compensate for the soft acid, providing good balance. The perfect choice for seared scallops served on parsnip puree. Fantastic value! (MB) PARALLÈLE 45 2015 AC COTES DU RHONE ($18)
Rhone white blend of Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Viognier and Bourbelenc. Medium-deep brass color. Medium-intensity nose of bruised apple and citrus, a touch of oxidization. Dry and austere on the palate with some fruit pit bitterness. This vintage was unfortunately over it when tasted, but a younger vintage would score higher and make a good, versatile food wine. It will stay discreetly in the background and let the food take centre stage. (RL) GREECE OREINOS HELIOS MOSCHOFILERO/ SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018, PELOPONNESE IGT ($15.60)
Pretty aromatic nose made of fresh lemon,
dried herbs, white peaches and white flowers. Just as charming on the palate. Simple and without any pretention but so pleasing and easy to drink. Great value. (MB) ITALY ALOIS LAGEDER MÜLLER THURGAU 2017, ALTO ADIGE DOC ($20)
Light body with bright juicy notes of white flowers, pear and red apple balanced by fresh acid with a pleasing low level of alcohol at 11.5%. The promise of summer in a glass. Delicious an aperitif and a natural with sushi. (MB)
$20.01 TO $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA BLUE MOUNTAIN CHARDONNAY 2018, OKANAGAN FALLS ($28)
Estate fruit from 12- to 29-year-old vines, manually thinned, hand-harvested and whole-cluster pressed. Upfront vibrant orchard fruits with citrus hints, apple, peach and lemon on a textured, creamy palate with well-managed French oak. Generous but elegant mouthfeel through a lengthy close. (TP) UPPER BENCH CHARDONNAY 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($28)
Aromas of tropical and stone fruit. Tropical notes followed by a juicy palate with peach, tangerine and pineapple wrapped in juicy acidity. Good texture and a creamy character followed by zesty notes through the close. (TP) NK’MIP CELLARS WHITE MER’R’IYM 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($29)
A rare Okanagan white meritage. Sauvi-
gnon Blanc (70%) with Semillon (30%) delivers a grassy and gently herbaceous top with orchard and tropical hints before a firm, juicy palate of peach, citrus and a touch of oak through a clean close. (TP) FRANCE CHÂTEAU DE ROMANCE 2016, AC BORDEAUX ($22)
A dry wine from the Sauternes area. Medium yellowy gold. Medium-intensity nose of Golden Delicious apple touched with pine resin and lime peel, and served with tea. Light bodied, a little thin and plain, tastes of ripe apple and lemon drops. Drink now. (RL) LAMBLIN & FILS FLEUR D’ACACIA 2016, AC CHABLIS ($26)
Pristine expression of Chardonnay. Medium yellow. Nose of peach, lemon, flowers. Clean, slicing acidity, bone dry and austere, tasting of banana and apple with some peach stone bitterness. Excellent served with seared tuna in a tomato and garlic sauce. Drink now. (RL)*
RECOMMENDED
CHÂTEAU MONTUS 2013, PACHERENC DU VIC BILH SEC AOC ($43)
FRANCE CHÂTEAU DE CHAMIREY BLANC 2015, MERCUREY AOC ($32)
Rich creamy texture with bright notes of lemon and wet stone balanced by fresh acid. Will please the Burgundy lover seeking for typicity without breaking the bank. A match for skate cooked in butter with lemon and capers. (MB)
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ARMENIA ZORAH VOSKÌ 2016, ARMENIA ($45)
What an amazing discovery. Full body with tight compact structure and vibrant notes of lime and lemon. Slightly reductive with a nice chalky texture and mouth-watering salty finish. Two words sum it up: intriguing and gorgeous. Worth every penny. (MB) FRANCE
ITALY ARNALDO RIVERA NASCETTA DEL COMUNE DI NOVELLO 2018, LANGHE DOC ($29)
I am told by this Barolo co-op that a total of 9 hectares of the indigenous Nascetta is planted in Piedmont. This wine makes you wish there were more. Pretty palate with notes of pear, melon, yellow plum and white flowers with refreshing acid that balance the rounded creamy texture. Zesty finish with a pleasant salty tang. A great match for halibut or simply prepared cod. (MB) PALLADINO GAVI DEL COMUNE DI GAVI 2018, PIEDMONT ($34)
Impressive for its delicate intensity, brightness and balance: floral notes, crushed rocks, yellow stone fruit, fresh herbs and hints of blanched almonds, yet maintains an ethereal quality. Beautiful and expressive, inviting and vibrant with loads of personality and a refreshing lifted finish. 100% Cortese. Great with shellfish, fish and risotto with fresh herbs made using a Parmigiano Reggiano broth. (GB)
I absolutely love this white wine and was charmed by it. But I recommend it with a few warnings. Be prepared to experience something different. The wine shows lots of evolution and has a lot of character: exactly why I like it. A beautiful amber colour, full body and exotic notes of honey, orange peel, dried apricot, lemon rind and almond. Still fresh and vibrant despite its evolution. A real gem. Made for quail served with kumquat sauce. (MB)
CHÂTEAU TOUR LÉOGNAN 2016, PESSAC-LÉOGNAN AOC ($35)
70% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Semillon. We do not talk enough about white Bordeaux. This is a great example of the delicious examples you find in Pessac-Léognan that offer great value for money. Lovely aromas of passionfruit and guava with zesty lime and lanolin notes. Vibrant acidity and subtle taste that adds texture and depth. Seafood’s best friend. (MB) DOMAINE LA TAILLE AUX LOUPS CLOS MICHET 2017, AOC MONTLOUIS-SUR-LOIRE ($38)
Seductive aromas with mingling notes of chamomile, mushroom, honey, lemon and dried apricot. Oh, and did I mention the subtle notes of mushroom that add depth and complexity? Great structure with tangy acid and a long, lingering finish. If you drink this wine now, enjoy it with goat cheese or scallop ceviche made with mango. Otherwise, it is great wine to put away in the cellar and enjoy in 10 to 15 years. Simply outstanding. (MB)
× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT WWW.QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/
ITALY ELVIO COGNO LANGHE NASCETTA DI NOVELLO ANAS-CETTA 2019, PIEDMONT ($55)
Beautifully expressive with notes of pineapple and citrus, textural, lightly juicy and herbal with a tight core and minerally finish. More expressive at this stage than in previous vintages, but with the same structure and seeming potential for aging expected of this wine. A versatile food wine that can stand up to flavourful dishes and ones that are heavier than you might expect. (GB)
ROSÉ CORNELLANA RESERVE ROSÉ 2018, CACHAPOAL VALLEY, CHILE ($12)
Vivid copper colour. Forward nose of sweet Asian melon, a touch of banana. The mostly Pinot Noir and Syrah blend tastes of apricot, orange and red berries. Outstanding with an artisan bacon and tomato sandwich. Extreme value. (RL)* HENRY OF PELHAM THREE OF HEARTS ROSÉ 2018, ONTARIO ($19)
Pale salmon in colour; cranberry and wild strawberry bouquet. Dry, light to medium bodied, with tangy flavours of rhubarb and strawberry. Good length. A harbinger of summer rosé. (TA) BRIAR RIDGE ROSÉ 2017, ORANGE, AUSTRALIA ($20)
Medium copper colour. Nose of McIntosh apple with strawberry and a pineapple tinge, even a bit of yeastiness. Tastes of stone fruits and red berries with a nicely FALL 2020 29
BUYING GUIDE balanced acidity and a touch of Merlot herbal bitterness on the finish. Made for food; good with ham or roast chicken. (RL)*
RED
$20 AND UNDER
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
CARMEN GRAN RESERVA CARMENERE 2017, DO COLCHAGUA ($14)
Opaque purple-red colour. Robust and distinctive Carmenere nose of raspberry seasoned with oregano. Full bodied and full of blackberry and blackcurrant fruit. Flavours are not complex, it needs some time to mellow but the fruit may not last. Drink to 2022 but taste often. (RL) BARON PHILIPPE DE ROTHSCHILD ESCUDO ROJO RESERVA CARMENÈRE 2018, RAPEL VALLEY ($17)
Dense purple colour that stains the glass. Cedary, toasty, blackcurrant bouquet. Medium to full bodied. Juicy and fruity blackcurrant and black plum flavours with well-integrated oak and ripe tannins. Great value. (TA) FRANCE CHÂTEAU CAMPLONG GRANDE RÉSERVE CORBIÈRES 2018, LANGUEDOC ($13)
Dense ruby in colour with a cedary, spicy nose of blackberries with a light herbal note. Full bodied, dry, savoury. Rich black fruit flavours with notes of dark chocolate and black olive with lively acidity. Great mouthfeel with ripe cocoa powder tannins. A well-balanced wine. (TA) 30 FALL 2020
Light with juicy aromas of red plum and cherries with a pleasant herbal touch. Vibrant with bright acid and soft tannins. The perfect vin de soif. Hard to drink in moderation. Serve slightly chilled. (MB)
VIGNELAURE LE PAGE 2015, IGP MÉDITERRANÉE ($18)
CHILE
PORTUGAL
CHRISTOPHE PACALET LES MARCELLINS 2018, BEAUJOLAIS AOC ($17)
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend. From a celebrated estate in the south of France, which gives a very deep garnet colour and a ripe nose of cassis, black cherry and some toast in the background. Medium bodied and nicely balanced, tasting of blackcurrant and raspberry with a firm tannic structure—like a ripe fruity claret. Value. Drink up. (RL)* ITALY CAPARZO ROSSO DI MONTALCINO DOC 2017 ($18)
A traditional style of Rosso with all its charm and a slight rustic edge that touches the soul. Vibrant notes of cherry, cinnamon and licorice with bright acid and dusty tannins. Enjoyed it with pizza Margherita—it was the perfect Monday. (MB) CA’ DEL SETTE VINI APPASSIONANTE ROSSO 2016, VENETO ($19)
Deep ruby in colour with a tawny hue. Perfumed blackberry and plum nose. Medium bodied, sweet black fruit flavour. (Appassionante is a play on the term Appassimento—the drying of harvested grapes before fermentation, as in Amarone. Although the taste of this sweeter wine is nearer Recioto della Valpolicella.) (TA)
CARVALHO LIMA VINDIMEIRO 2016, DOC DOURO ($15)
Strong nose of raspberry candy, raisin and vanilla with a touch of Amaretto. Tart and fresh on the palate, with ripe grapey blackcurrant flavours. Drink through 2021. (RL)*
RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA VICTORIA PARK CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($14)
Deep purple in colour. Cedary, lightly floral, spicy nose of plum. Medium bodied, dry, slightly sweet and jammy with plum and blackberry flavours. (TA) UNITED STATES BERINGER PINOT NOIR 2017 ($15)
Medium-intensity nose of mostly plums with sour cherry and some oak. Lots of raspberry and cherry extract and an almost candy-like sweetness from the high alcohol (13.8%). But the flavours are simple and the minimal structure comes from the adequate acidity. Drink up. (RL)
$20.01 TO $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA CATENA LUNLUNTA OLD VINES APPELLATION MALBEC 2017, MENDOZA ($22)
Cedary, spicy, blackberry with vanilla oak on the nose. Medium to full bodied, dry, elegant, perfumed blackberry flavour. A beautifully balanced wine. (TA)
AUSTRALIA GEOFF HARDY LAGREIN 2015, ADELAIDE HILLS ($26)
Opaque plum red. Prominent nose featuring black cherry, plum and oak. Medium to full bodied, a robust and powerful wine with high tannins, packed with black cherries. Alcohol is high but well integrated. Drink through 2021. (RL)* K1 PINOT NOIR 2016, ADELAIDE HILLS ($27)
Pale crimson. Initial nose of cranberry, raspberry and violets opens in the glass to redcurrant, strawberry jam and some toasty oak. Soft tannins give a velvety mouthfeel supporting a touch of caramel, and raspberry and cherry jams warmed just enough by the alcohol, all set off by good acidity. Drink now. (RL)* CANADA WILD GOOSE GAMAY NOIR 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($21)
Naramata Bench sourced fruit yields upfront, vibrant red berries and vanilla notes, followed by a fruit-forward, lightto medium-bodied palate of cherry and raspberry with some spice and black pepper hints wrapped in juicy acidity through the finish. (TP) HENRY OF PELHAM, SPECK FAMILY RESERVE BACO NOIR 2018, ONTARIO ($24)
Opaque purple in colour. Cedary, spicy, black plum nose. Full bodied, dry, licorice and black plum flavours with fresh acidity. (TA)
NK’MIP CELLARS QWAM QWMT MERLOT 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($29)
Aromas of black berry fruits with spice and mocha notes before a plush entry, a full-bodied palate. Approachable tannins with a touch of herb. Some pepper and spice notes with earthy hints through a lingering finish. Ready for BBQ season. (TP) BLUE MOUNTAIN GAMAY NOIR 2018, OKANAGAN FALLS ($30)
Estate fruit from 11- to 29-year-old vines that date from the original planting that put Gamay on the BC map. Manually thinned, hand harvested
and open-top fermented with native yeasts. Lifted red berry notes up front, followed by dark cherry notes with a hint of spice and earthiness on a lightto medium-bodied palate, supported by fresh and juicy acidity. (TP) SUMAC RIDGE BLACK SAGE VINEYARD SHIRAZ 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($31)
Dense purple in colour. Intense, spicy, black fruit nose with notes of vanilla oak and dried herbs. Full bodied, dry, savoury flavours of plum and bitter chocolate. (TA) BLUE GROUSE ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2017, COWICHAN VALLEY ($32)
Forward deep red berry notes, hints of dark cherry with an entry defined by vibrant and juicy acidity. A light- to medium-bodied palate of strawberry and cranberry flavours with a savoury edge and spicy notes through the close. Ideal for the patio. (TP) NK’MIP CELLARS QWAM QWMT PINOT NOIR 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($34)
Aromas of bright strawberry, cherry and vanilla notes followed by a well-defined varietal palate with savoury hints and some mineral undertones. Approachable, well-integrated tannins supported by spice and oak with good acidity through the close. (TP) FRANCE DUBOEUF AOP BEAUJOLAIS NOUVEAU 2019 ($24)
Tasted in January, when no longer nouveau. Medium-deep purple-red colour. Strong nose of bubblegum, grapey Gamay. Light bodied with high acidity: just what a good nouveau should deliver. But not the best of vintages; the fruit is a bit thinner and less in-your-face than one might wish. (RL) DOMAINE DUGOIS TROUSSEAU GREVILLIÈRE 2015, ARBOIS AOC ($26)
First you smell a wave of sous bois and mushroom. Then, once you taste it, those aromas are lifted by crunchy sour cherries and raspberry notes. Light body with fine chalky tannins. Juicy and easy to drink. Delicious with duck confit. (MB)
CHÂTEAU LE PUY EMILIEN 2016, FRANCS CÔTES DE BORDEAUX AOC ($28)
Pure ripe notes of dark cherries and plum with black licorice structured by firm chalky tannins and balanced by fresh acid. A pleasant touch of cedar lifts the aromas. Still tight with moderate finish. If you thought Bordeaux no longer offered great value, think again. This wine shines with lamb but will benefit from further aging. 7 to 10 years, I think. (MB) DOMAINE DES PERDRIX PINOT NOIR 2017, BOURGOGNE AOC ($30)
Delicate notes of truffles, sour cherries and raspberries with fresh acid and fine tannins. Will please the Burgundy lover seeking for typicity and authencity at a good price. Just delicious! (MB)
SPAIN RITME PLAER 2015, DOQ PRIORAT ($33)
The isolated mountainous region produces famously powerful wines from the Garnacha (Grenache) grape. Deep plum red. Robust nose, smells like a rum n’ raisin chocolate bar resting on a wet oak plank. Medium bodied with heady alcohol (15%). Tastes of dark berries and black licorice candy. Drink to 2021. (RL)*
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA CULMINA HYPOTHESIS 2015, GOLDEN MILE BENCH ($46)
This flagship blend is from one of the best vintages on record. It yields cherry, plum and earthy notes on top with blue and black berry fruits leading to a rounded and plush palate of blackberry and cassis with mineral undertones, barrel spice and black pepper. Wrapped in structured, well-integrated tannins through a lingering finish. (TP) UPPER BENCH CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016 ($46)
Aromas of black and blue fruit with some earthy and cedar hints precede a generous medium- to full-bodied palate that continues to open in the glass with cherry, cassis and blackberry notes supported by supple, elegant tannins. (TP) FALL 2020 31
BUYING GUIDE FRANCE LA GRANDE GARDIOLE CHÂTEAUNEUFDU-PAPE 2016, RHÔNE ($50)
Deep ruby in colour. Cedary, spicy, blackberry nose. Medium to full bodied, dry, firmly structured, earthy, blackberry flavour with herbal and licorice notes. Hold for a couple of years. (TA) ITALY MALABAILA ROERO BRIC VOLTA 2017, PIEDMONT ($35)
The freshness of the aromas and brightness of the flavours mirrors a youthful and vibrant garnet colour. Elegant, refined, textural and balanced with red fruit aromas and layered flavours, notes of spice, fresh herbs and balsamic. Tremendous value and a great example of the quality of Nebbiolo produced in Roero. (GB) PALLADINO NEBBIOLO D’ALBA 2018, PIEDMONT ($45)
Loads of violets on the nose with bright, juicy red fruit, firm, fruit-coated tannins, mouth-watering acidity, well balanced and lingering. Delicious and a great match with game birds, grilled meats and pasta with meat ragu and freshly shaved truffles. (GB) DIEVOLE POGGIO LANDI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2013, TUSCANY ($49)
Ruby colour, cedary, black cherry bouquet. Medium bodied, dry, elegant, firmly structured, beautifully balanced with lively acidity. Drinking well now but will reward cellaring 4 to 5 years. (TA) MALABAILA ROERO RISERVA CASTELLETTO 2015, PIEDMONT ($60)
Dark red and black fruit, spice, balsamic and forest floor. Balanced and complex 32 FALL 2020
with a long finish. From 50-year-old vines grown in a combination of sandy and clay soils. Ideal with braised meats and rich, earthy vegetarian dishes. (GB) PALLADINO BAROLO DEL COMUNE DU SERRALUNGA D’ALBA 2016, PIEDMONT ($75)
The quality of the bright red fruit is stellar with great purity and minerality. A lovely perfume, notes of citrus and spice, firm, but well-integrated tannins. Well balanced, multi-dimensional, classically austere, refined and elegant, but also inviting. Pleasurable in its youth but will age well for many years to come. (GB) RIZZI BARBARESCO NERVO 2017, PIEDMONT ($89)
Linear, vibrant and electric with bright fruit, spice and floral notes, a tight core and refined texture. A little time will allow the wine to integrate even more and become more expressive. (GB) ARNALDORIVERA 2015, CASTELLO BAROLO DOCG ($95)
Profound aromas of tar, rose and chocolate mingle with pure notes of red cherries. Dusty and firm tannins are in harmony with the generosity of fruit. Long, lingering finish with a touch of iron that adds further complexity. Without a doubt a wine for the cellar. I ordered a few bottles on the spot! (MB) ELVIO COGNO BAROLO RAVERA 2016, PIEDMONT ($125)
Quite powerful on the nose, but with an abundance of freshness showing violets and a purity of ripe fruit, structure, firm tannins, bright acidity and a mouth-watering finish. Possesses all the components to age well, but if given enough air, it will be enjoyable even in its youth. (GB)
ELVIO COGNO BAROLO RAVERA BRICCO PERNICE, 2015, PIEDMONT ($145)
Rich yet extremely elegant with perfumed and bright fruit aromas, a tight core, fine-grained tannins and incredible length. A slightly warmer site results in a more robust wine with marginally lower perception of acidity enticing you to drink sooner. Will develop more layers and complexity for a decade and beyond. (GB) SOUTH AFRICA ERASMUS FAMILY RESERVE 2015, SWARTLAND ($52)
Savoury, herbal nose of black fruits. Full bodied (14.5% alcohol), dry, juicy plum and blackberry flavours carried on racy acidity. (TA)
BEER & CIDER LEFT FIELD GLORIOSO ITALIAN PILSNER, ONTARIO ($3/355 ML)
The emergent Italian Pilsner style is hard to define, but Left Field’s version uses Eraclea barley from near the Adriatic Sea, so it has terroir on its side. The light dusting of confection sugar on the nose seems to frame the lemon zest and light herbal bitterness on the palate, although it eventually finishes extremely dry with a touch of Campari-Chinotto bitterness. One sips sweet and bitter alternately. (JSJ) RED RACER AFTER HOURS OLD FASHIONED PALE ALE, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($3/500 ML)
The Canadian Brewing Awards 2019 Beer of the Year. After Hours is a home run
from a vertical integration standpoint. Central City uses their house-made single malt whisky and bitters along with orange peel and cherries to create a product best described as beer adjacent. That said, it is experientially similar to drinking an Old Fashioned at a significantly reduced level of alcohol. It is dominated slightly by the cherry and orange. (JSJ) BENCH BREWING JORDAN HARBOUR BELGIAN PALE ALE, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)
Belgian Pale Ale as a style waned somewhat in the latter half of the last decade, but Jordan Harbour makes a case for its return. The nose features white pepper, floral notes and a touch of grapefruit, all of which butt heads with ripe banana and plummy esters from a Belgian yeast strain. The hops become woody and herbal on the palate but are bolstered by slight minerality and a vibrant carbonic attack. Slightly out of balance, but compelling. (JSJ) MONK’S STOUT DUPONT, BELGIUM ($3.25/330 ML)
Originally brewed in the 1950s, this 2011 recreation is part of Dupont’s modern stable. In spirit, it is most comparable to a dry Irish stout, with more roast astringency than a Guinness and a wealth of coffee and dark toast on the palate. The difference is the scrubbing carbonation imparted by the Belgian yeast strain during secondary fermentation in the bottle. An excellent companion to the briny salinity of a half dozen oysters. (JSJ) MUSKOKA BREWERY KEY LIME PIE, ONTARIO ($3.95/473 ML)
The most current in an annual collaboration series with the Kawartha Dairy, Key Lime Pie is an exercise in emulation. It derives a mousse-like texture from oats, lactose and key lime puree. The nose expertly recreates the dessert, while a small note of toasted coconut comes through on the back end of the palate. A brief Floridian odyssey for the snowbirds staying home. (JSJ) SIERRA NEVADA 40TH ANNIVERSARY ALE, UNITED STATES ($4/355 ML)
A classic version of the West Coast IPA featuring Sierra Nevada’s trademark whole cone hop character, this is redolent of pine, pepper, grapefruit pith
and mango. A fantastic throwback to a defining period in the modern brewing history of North America. Will it play as well for their 50th Anniversary? Only time will tell. (JSJ) GODSPEED KAZOKU, ONTARIO ($4.50/355 ML)
Kazoku is a saison with plum. Its effervescence and underlying tartness have one job: keep the plum front and centre. Every detail of the fruit is represented, from the lightly tannic skin and the sweetness of the flesh in the aroma to the gentle tartness of a ripe late autumn Niagara plum on the palate. It is basically magic, which is what we have come to expect from Godspeed. (JSJ) INSEL BRAUEREI BALTIC ALE, GERMANY ($7.95/330 ML)
The orchard fruit esters of pear and apple are reminiscent of Belgian counterparts. But the chalky geography lends a carbonate-heavy water profile that punches up bitterness, creating a cloud of dry herbs and sandalwood on the swallow as the dry finish disappears out from underneath. A fascinating experience, especially for devotees of Duvel. (JSJ) UERIGE ALTBIER, GERMANY ($3.95/330 ML)
Uerige is tantalizing: the assertion of aroma and flavour is such that it is hard to tell whether everything occurs sequentially or concurrently. The immediate impression is of earth and laurel, but the texture is reminiscent of light grade maple sap. The malt runs from honey to molasses to roast, but the expression is ephemeral. The only real constant is the bitterness, which inhabits a space between black pepper and endive. Challenging but rewarding. (JSJ) DELIRIUM RED, BELGIUM (KEG ONLY)
Huyghe Brouwerij’s Delirium Tremens is a perpetual favourite among novice drinkers for the cheerful pink elephants in the branding. Delirium Red, a twist on that Belgian Golden Ale, features a hint of noisette under a fruity nose that splits the difference between cherry popsicle and cherry nerds. The palate is intensely sweet with a cloying finish, but it is potentially a perfect match for a New York-style Cheesecake. (JSJ)
× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT WWW.QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/
SPIRITS BACARDÍ GENUINE SPICED RUM, PUERTO RICO ($30)
Bacardí Spiced does a commendable job of keeping some actual rum character intact in its spiced expression. Expect some typical molasses and fruitcake notes with additional forward aromas of vanilla bean, marmalade and baking spices. It is “adult” enough be enjoyed on its own over ice, and I found it worked best mixed with cola (specifically Coke Zero) and a spritz of lime. The vanilla and spice mingle nicely with the trace of rum heat that graces the finish. (TS) OLD PULTENEY 12-YEAR-OLD SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY, SCOTLAND ($75)
A lightly briny initial impression gives way to suggestions of lemon oil, slightly toasted grain, mild anise and a touch of mineral. Citrus fruit, toffee and a dash of spice mesh nicely with the smooth and supple mouthfeel. Polished and refined. (TS) ANCNOC PEAT HIGHLAND SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY, SCOTLAND ($130)
This is a Highland malt with an Islay twist. Rather than finishing in ex-peated whisky casks, the malt for this expression is peated to a 40 ppm phenol level (this is not over-the-top by Islay standards, but pretty significant for a Highland). This non-chill filtered, non-coloured malt marks the 125th anniversary of the Knockdu Distillery. Fragrances of sweet wood smoke and obvious (but not overpowering) peat, mesh seamlessly with coffee, mild iodine and buckwheat honey. The flavours are big, bold, powerful and peppery, with a dash of toasted almond and dried apricot. (TS) BALBLAIR 18-YEAR-OLD HIGHLAND SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY, SCOTLAND ($230)
Some of the aromatic components that distinguish the 15-Year-Old expression can also be found in the 18-Year-Old, but there is an added layer of pear, vanilla, hard toffee and an interesting floral edge. Nougat, dried apricot, sweet pear and a touch of warming, peppery spice are evident in the whisky’s flavour profile, along with a hint of sweet raisin pie that persists on the palate as the primary flavours gently slip away. (TS)
FALL 2020 33
AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER
IF THERE WERE A ‘WINEMAKERS WITH THE MOST FREQUENT FLYER MILES’ AWARD, ANN SPERLING AND PETER GAMBLE WOULD WIN HANDS DOWN. Partners in wine and
in life, this Niagara-based couple have amazingly long and geographically diverse resumés. Ann Sperling is the director of winemaking and viticulture for Southbrook Farms, Niagara-on-the-Lake. She rightly claims to be the torch-bearing advocate for organic and biodynamic winegrowing and winemaking in Canada. She also heads growing operations and winemaking at her family’s property Sperling Vineyards in Kelowna, BC. Before moving eastward, Ann was the award-winning winemaker at CedarCreek Estate Winery in Kelowna. Peter Gamble, founding executive director of Ontario’s Vintners Quality Alliance, helped make the VQA Regulations in 1988. A former winemaker at Hillebrand (now Trius), he went on to set up a consulting business specializing in winery start-ups. His projects include Stratus and Ravine Vineyard in Ontario; Benjamin Bridge, and Lightfoot & Wolfville in Nova Scotia; and (most recently) On Seven Estate Winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake. But it is their frequent visits to Sperling Vineyards in BC and bi-annual trips to Argentina that rack up the air miles. In Argentina, they supervise the harvest, blending and bottling of Versado, the wine they grow in their three-hectare Malbec vineyard in Mendoza This 100-year-old vineyard is planted on Malbec rootstock, with a few random vines of Tempranillo thrown in. According to Ann, this means that “there’s a lot of variation in the vineyard from vine to vine because it’s not clonal.” 34 FALL 2020
The couple have been working their vineyard on the legendary Cobos Road for 11 years. They produce three labels totalling 10,000 bottles a year on average. These include an estate entry wine, an Old Vine and a Riserva. (A fourth label, a Gran Riserva, is in the works.) To label a wine a Riserva, they have to commit it to two years in the barrel. Currently, they make Versado at Clos de Chacras, a local winery. I was lucky to join them for the blending session of their 2018 vintage in December. “We use 100% French oak,” Peter told me in their kitchen in the town of Chacras de Coria. On the kitchen counter, there were 40 small bottles, each one marked with its barrel number; a beaker; a slew of ISO tasting glasses; and a measuring column into which Ann poured the wines, measured and tasted them, and made notes. “We love second-use and older barrels,” Peter continued. “We shy away from over oak wood contributions and prefer Boutes Grande Réserve barrels (from the Boutes family cooperage in Bordeaux). They are respectful of the grape variety.” Each vintage produces enough wine to fill some 35 barrels. For their Riserva wine, the couple look for the barrels that offer “the greatest complexity and the best expression of the terroir.” To perfect the Riserva blend, they begin a bench trial. They look for the texture, mouthfeel, complexity, acidity and fruit character that are the hallmark of Versado. “Then we determine how much time the blend needs to spend in wood,” they explain. Wines may taste better when enjoyed with the winemaker, but I thought the final test blend was stunning. Versado speaks to the soil of Mendoza in a Canadian accent and I cannot wait for the 2018 vintage to be on liquor store shelves. According to Peter, the 2019 vintage could be even better. × ILLUSTRATION: ROBB MIRSKY, WWW.ROBBMIRSKY.COM
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