River XADto Vine DEAKIN IN FOLDER
Deakin Estate wines are crafted from family owned vineyards that lie in the Murray Darling region of Australia. Here, the river weaves across the land, bringing life to our vines. Rich, fertile soils and a warm, sunny climate create a perfect environment for growing quality fruit to make these delicious wines.
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NOVEMBER 2019 14 ROAD TRIP TREVE RING
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Eating and drinking your way through Oregon’s Willamette Valley.
NCH 21
IN THE VINES
MICHAEL APSTEIN
Burgundy is home to more than just Chardonnay.
COLUMNS
9 | IT’S IN THE CAN CRAIG PINHEY
6 | LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO
Are canned wines the next big thing for quality wine?
Ever wanted to add a little woodland flavour to your drink?
11 | OVERHEARD AT A BAR IN REYKJAVÍK …
8 | LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC Warm winter cocktails for beer lovers.
27 | BUYING GUIDE
TOD STEWART Sheep dung. What?!
18 | PLANTING WITH A CROWBAR W BLAKE GRAY
The best wine, beer and spirits from around the world, critiqued by our expert tasting panel.
I’m going to let you in on a secret: Some of the best Syrah in North America is being grown in the Oregon part of Washington, so to speak.
34 | AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER
25 | WAKENING
This Chardonnay-fest is The School of Cool.
KONRAD EJBICH Ask for white wine anywhere in Spain and it’s likely that the first thing you’ll be offered is Verdejo.
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NOVEMBER 2019 3
LETTER FROM THE WINE EDITOR
WWW.QUENCH.ME EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Aldo Parise editor@quench.me WINE EDITOR
Gurvinder Bhatia gbhatia@quench.me MANAGING EDITOR
Lisa Hoekstra lhoekstra@quench.me CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
Tod Stewart tstewart@quench.me COLUMNISTS
Tony Aspler, Christine Sismondo, Robin LeBlanc CONTRIBUTORS
Craig Pinhey, Treve Ring, W. Blake Gray, Konrad Ejbich, Michael Apstein
TASTERS
Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Michelle Bouffard, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Tim Pawsey, Michaela Morris, Jordan St. John and Jonathan Smithe CREATIVE DIRECTOR
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WebFree, Designs In Response PHOTOGRAPHY
DESIGNATED AREAS FOR CONSUMING ALCOHOL ARE COMMON AT EVENTS AND FESTIVALS ACROSS CANADA. Yet the notion of caging people up in a confined area, such as a beer
garden, and not letting them out until they have consumed as much as they can is outdated and encourages binge drinking, i.e., the accelerated and over-consumption of alcohol. This summer, some larger festivals in Alberta implemented whole site licensing — a concept I fully support. It allows people to drink at their own pace while visiting food stands and enjoying the entertainment with family and friends, and creates an environment where the focus is not alcohol consumption. The shift to whole site licensing is progressive. The government, event organizers and media must also be progressive in their messaging about the changes. The latter must relinquish its need for sensationalizing headlines. Every news story I have seen that covered the changes missed the point with headlines such as “summer festivals make alcohol more accessible.” The focus of the message should be on creating a culture of responsible consumption. Whole site licensing reduces alcohol related issues. Since British Columbia relaxed its beer and wine garden fencing requirements in 2015, “wholesite licensing has made events more family-friendly, with fewer people being noticeably intoxicated,” according to a government spokesperson. In other parts of the world, you can be in a city’s main square and have a glass of wine or walk around at a food festival with a beer. Anarchy does not ensue because culturally, drinking isn’t a big deal. So let’s encourage people to drink better, not more. Event organizers need to take more responsibility for the quality (or lack thereof ) of alcoholic beverages being served. Our laws should reflect current societal norms instead of puritanical, prohibition-era ideals. Whole site licensing is a step in the right direction, but the misleading message of “making alcohol more accessible” simply demonstrates how far we still have to go.
4 NOVEMBER 2019
Push/Stop, Free Bird
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LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO
SPRUCE IT UP Ever wanted to add a little woodland flavour to your drink? Canada’s distillers certainly seem to. We are recently seeing a number of new boreal forest gins, many using spruce tips as a signature botanical. Already popular in craft distillation circles, spruce tips are now starting to feature in cocktails. But bartenders aren’t exactly familiar with this quirky ingredient. To learn the reasons for adding the forest to our cocktails, I turned to Makina Labrecque, a cocktailian at Calgary’s Lulu Bar who won the Canadian leg of the 2019 Patrón Perfectionist competition with her spruce tip cocktail. “I first used spruce tips to add a herbaceous, minty-cool and fresh note to cocktails,” said Labrecque. “It’s a really Canadian ingredient and a great way to represent the unique flavours of the region.” For her winning drink, the Cyanocitta, Labrecque chose to use spruce tips like you would mint in a mojito: she muddled them, then shook and strained the cocktail. Yet this is just one way to use spruce tips as a cocktail ingredient: “You could smoke them if you wanted to, like how you smoke the glass in a Smoked Old Fashioned,” Labrecque explained. “Or you could steep them in boiling water to make tea for the base of a simple syrup. You could also infuse them with a spirit or add them to oleo saccharum.” Although oleo saccharum may sound like a next-level cocktail technique, it is actually a fairly straightforward mix of citrus oil and sugar, and is essential to bring out certain flavours in punches. There is flavour in them there peels, and a simple way to extract it is making oleo saccharum. 6 NOVEMBER 2019
CYANOCITTA
1 1/4 oz Patrón silver 1/2 oz Ransom dry vermouth 1 oz Szechuan peppercorn and lime oleo saccharum* 1/4 oz blue curacao 8 spruce tips (two for garnish) 1 pinch salt
Muddle six spruce tips in a shaker. Add ice and the rest of the ingredients. Shake for 20 seconds. Double strain the cocktail into a rocks glass over crushed ice. Garnish with two spruce tips. *We adapted Labrecque’s original Szechuan peppercorn and lime oleo saccharum to remove the need for a sous-vide. You may find the original recipe online including on the Patrón Perfectionists website. As an alternative, Labrecque suggests using Szechuan peppercorn bitters (if you can find it) and a little extra lime. SZECHUAN PEPPERCORN AND LIME OLEO SACCHARUM
12 4 1 1/2 1 1/2
limes tbsp dried whole Szechuan peppercorns tbsp whole white peppercorns tsp citric acid powder cups fine, granulated white sugar
Remove the zest of 12 limes. Add zest, sugar and peppercorns to a Mason jar, seal it and shake it. Leave in a cool, dark place for 24 hours. Strain mixture through a cheesecloth, add citric acid powder and stir until dissolved. Juice six of the limes and stir into the mixture. × × VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/MIXED/ FOR MORE DRINK RECIPES
NEW
PREMIUM SAKE
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SAKE IN FOLDER
Easy to drink, Manga sakeis a high quality Junmai. Originating from the brithplace of sake in Japan and produced by a famous and highly respected japanese sake brewery dating from the 19th century Meiji era.
LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC
WARMING WINTER COCKTAILS FOR BEER LOVERS WELL, AUTUMN WAS FUN WHILE IT LASTED. Now we are entering the truly
chilly season and, personally, I cannot wait. What can I say, I love the holiday season! I love the beautiful falling snow, and the delightfully chilly air — a welcome respite from the incredibly hot summer. But what I love most is the parties. It is always lovely to come in from the cold and warm up with good food, good drink and even better company. I often have a bottle of something in my cellar or a special six pack at the ready for impromptu winter festivities. But when hosting my own holiday parties, I plan some unique drinks that are a touch more... traditional, with a beery twist, of course. The holiday favourite is, of course, eggnog. This creamy, sweet, delicious beverage served with an optional cinnamon stick or pinch of nutmeg is always my festive drink of choice. It is even better with a shot of rum in it, however, few people think of adding a good glug of beer to the mix. Let me tell you, friends: you are missing out. 8 NOVEMBER 2019
Randy Mosher wrote a simple enough recipe for beer nog in his wonderful book Tasting Beer: An Insider’s Guide to the World’s Greatest Drink, “A reasonable approach is to fill a 12-oz glass one-third full of hearty ale, adding a half an ounce of bourbon, rye or dark rum, then topping up with the prepared nog mixture, leaving room for a dollop of whipped froth on top. Really puts you in the holiday spirit.” While any eggnog (including storebought versions) will do the trick, making your own is life-changing. There are a lot of recipes out there, but if you can hunt down Alton Brown’s, you will not be sorry. As for which beer to add, a dark spiced ale like Wychwood’s Bah Humbug! or Great Lakes Brewery’s Winter Ale will add a lovely warming punch. Or beers like dark imperial stouts can add a coffee-like boozy warmth. Another of my favourite beery takes on a holiday drink is mulled ale. A spiced ale like the ones I recommend for the beer nog or a classic English dark
ale add a nice mildness to mulled ale that you do not find in its sweeter winebased counterpart, with no shortage on holiday cheer! Curious? Here is a mulled ale recipe to try for your upcoming party.
MULLED ALE
1 1/2 bottles (18 oz) brown or Christmas ale 2-3 tbsp dark brown sugar 2 star anise 5 cloves (add more to taste) 1/2 tsp ground nutmeg 1 whole cinnamon stick 1 orange, sliced into rounds 1/4 cup of brandy to add before serving (optional)
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to medium-high heat until just barely simmering. Bring heat down to medium-low, cover and leave to simmer for at least 15 minutes, up to 3 hours. Strain and serve with an orange slice, cinnamon stick, or any desired garnish. ×
IT’S IN THE CAN by Craig Pinhey
Are canned wines the next big thing for quality wine? SELLING WINE THESE DAYS IS NOT JUST ABOUT THE JUICE; IT’S ALSO ABOUT THE BIGGER PICTURE, THE IMAGE, THE BACKGROUND STORY AND THE PACKAGE. Producers have to
think about the impact of their product and its packaging on the environment, and they have to keep on top of the trend towards low-intervention, organic, biodynamic, low-S and so-called natural wines. Today’s drinkers want to know that companies care about this stuff, and they respond when a winery’s corporate culture aligns with their own. Putting wine in cans is a trend that speaks to these societal changes. While we have seen other alcohol products, including beer, cider and ready-to-drink beverages, move aggressively to cans for both cost and environmental reasons, wine has been slower to change. However, there has been a recent increase in canned wines available to the Canadian market, including inexpensive imported wines and non-VQA spritzers and the like. Even more recently, there have been some quality wines available in small (250 ml) cans, most notably from Between the Lines in Niagara, Ontario, and Benjamin Bridge in Gaspereau Valley, Nova Scotia. Between the Lines became the first to can VQA wines in 2016 — starting with Origin, a Charmat Method sparkling wine — and now produces two VQA sparkling wines sold via cans, Outset and BTL Pink. They are also canning wines for other Ontario producers, including Rockway Vineyards, Riverview Cellars and Dark Horse Estate. BTL owner Greg Wertsch and his partner/winemaker/brother, Yannick, saw the opportunity to can wine and were able to get approval from Ontario’s VQA. (BC’s VQA has yet to approve canned wine due to potential concerns with quality.) Greg Wertsch gives some credit to Vineland Estates’ Brian Schmidt, who was VQA president at the time.
“Our VQA was against canned wines at first, because it opened the way to other containers and possible quality issues,” says Wertsch. “But we persisted, arguing ‘Why don’t we can good-quality Niagara product, and open the canned market so we aren’t losing this market to international competitors?’” The mentality at the time was that only lower quality bulktype wine would be suitable for cans, similar to how consumers used to think about screw-capped wines. Eventually Schmidt came to agree with Wertsch and the VQA allowed it. “Now,” says Wertsch, “We are trying to raise awareness that you can have quality wine in the can.” They submitted Origin to the Finger Lakes International Wine Competition in New York, and it did very well. “The feedback was very positive,” he adds. “They were excited and found it unbelievable that there could be that high quality in a canned wine. It won Best in Class at Finger Lakes in its category.” So, yes, canned wine can be excellent, but there are things to watch out for in terms of quality. Some companies have experienced defects, including an overly reductive, sulfury character, and the lining of the cans will eventually break down. NOVEMBER 2019 9
BETWEEN THE LINES OUTSET, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($18.60/4 PACK)
A fresh and fruity VQA bubbly, made using the Charmat Method. Not much autolytic character, but has an attractive floral and stone fruit/citrus nose. Bubble attack is fine, and, although somewhat off-dry, the finish is fresh and has decent balance. This is super clean and free from any notable S-related defects. Chill for brunch or just pour yourself a (big) glass. It is, after all, a third of a bottle of wine! BETWEEN THE LINES BTL PINK, NIAGARA, ONTARIO ($19.80/4 PACK)
Another Charmat sparkling wine, this time a VQA rosé. Quite a bit sweeter than Outset, and much more floral, with some red fruit character. Strawberries alongside citrus, and a juicy, fresh finish. Again, super clean with no noticeable defects. BENJAMIN BRIDGE NOVA 7, GASPEREAU VALLEY, NOVA SCOTIA ($7.99/250 ML)
This aromatic blend of Muscat varietals (l’Acadie, Ortega and Geisenheim) is legendary in Nova Scotia and has made its way across Canada. It is pretty pink to look at, slightly fizzy and has explosive floral and grapefruit aromatics. Yes, it is quite sweet, but it also has ample acidity to balance that off. It’s a great brunch wine. BENJAMIN BRIDGE PET NAT, GASPEREAU VALLEY, NOVA SCOTIA ($8.99/250 ML)
A proprietary blend of various Nova Scotia grown grapes, canned prior to completing its fermentation. This results in a natural, unfiltered, hazy and lightly sparkling wine. It has pleasant floral and grapefruit aromas and a refreshing, surprisingly dry finish.
10 NOVEMBER 2019
Wertsch explains that quality concerns can be addressed, both in how you grow the grapes and how you make the wines. For instance, low-yield, cool-climate, high-acid wines work better as they are fresher and tend to need less sulfur and other additives/treatments. Wineries can choose to produce sparkling wines, which need less S, and limit the addition of sulphites before packaging, since a good canning process introduces less oxygen to wines than bottling. Benjamin Bridge head winemaker Jean-Benoit Deslauriers is equally enthusiastic about his canned wines. They released their nationally recognized Nova 7 aromatic bubbly in cans for the first time in 2019, and also canned their Pet Nat, the first ever in Canada. This dry sparkling wine undergoes a natural secondary fermentation in the can. The winery uses a regional mobile canning line. “THERE’S LOTS TO LIKE ABOUT THE FORMAT!” says De-
slauriers. “We like the versatility and portability of the format, especially considering the refreshing drinkability of our wines. Stylistically, our low-alcohol wines are ideal thirst-quenchers for any outdoor adventures. The cans, feather-light and unbreakable, have the potential of bringing these ‘crushable’ wines where previously impossible. A single-serve format is also an answer to the growing interest in moderation, while providing an optimal experience every time.” He also makes the environmental argument that aluminum cans are much lighter than glass, making for a smaller carbon footprint — and aluminum is far more recyclable than glass. As for concern with defects, he echoes Wertsch’s advice. “There are creative ways of addressing some of the current concerns about cans, such as-sulphur related defects,” he explains, “by making wines with no sulphites added, addressing those technical concerns while simultaneously making a stereotype-breaking statement with truly artisanal wines.” “With no sulphites added, our Pet Nat is a perfect example of how to address those storied concerns. Notwithstanding the cans, we have an interest in demonstrating that incredible wines can be made without allergens (such as sulphites), and when those allergens are the source of a technical problem, it is just an additional incentive to make wine more naturally.” Both Between the Lines and Benjamin Bridge are looking at the possibility of canning other wines. Wertsch has canned a still red wine for another winery, and would like to produce a “soft, easy-drinking red,” such as a Merlot. There are some limits to what he’d do in this format, though. For one, the can producer only guarantees the lining integrity for 12 months, so there is not much sense in canning wines that are meant to age. That said, Wertsch has tried two- to three-year-old cans of BTL wines and says they were still fine, if a bit less vibrant and fruity. The second limit is the size of the can. It really only makes sense for smaller servings, as small cans have a big economic advantage over small bottles. Also, Wertsch thinks small just make sense. “With more people drinking moderately,” he says, “and also living on their own, people like the single-serve size — this is the future.” ×
OVERHEARD AT A BAR IN REYKJAVÍK …
by Tod Stewart
“Sheep dung.” “What?!” “You heard me. Sheep dung.” “You’re telling me that the barley for that stuff in your glass is smoked over flaming sheep turd?” “Well, I don’t know about flaming …” “Look, the flaming part isn’t what’s making me uncomfortable.” “I envision more of a peat-like smouldering.” “Smouldering, flaming … whatever. It’s still basically hot shi…” “Language! Tsk, tsk.” “What the hell would convince a distiller to smoke barley over that crap. Seriously, this place has peat bogs. I mean, Scotland has sheep, too. And the spirits they make on Islay are peaty, not shi…, sorry, sheepy.” “Well, it’s not like my drink reeks of ruminant mammal.” “Huh?” “In any case, it’s about sustainability. Do you know how long it takes a peat bog to regenerate?” “Please enlighten me.” “It takes, like, a thousand years to form one and it only regenerates at something like a millimetre per year.” “So?” “So people here are big on sustainable and renewable everything. Peat isn’t really sustainable. Sheep dung, on the other hand …” “What do you call that stuff, anyway?” “Well, most people just call it sheep dung, but I’m sure there’s a more scientific …” “The stuff in your glass. God, you can be tiring at times.” “Flóki.” “As in a Flóki of sheep?” “Now who’s being tiring?” “Anyway, you can have it. I’ll stick with my Einstök Wee Heavy.” “I hear there’s a beer here infused with whales’ testicles, smoked over sheep dung, of course.” “Must you spoil everything?” Craft-brewed ales and sheep-dung-smoked spirits are probably not what inspires tourists to visit the most sparsely populated country in Europe. Visitors are allured by geothermal spas (Blue Lagoon is the most famous one), the cascading, multi-tiered Gullfoss waterfall (among many other waterfalls), geysers, glaciers and the Golden Circle (oh my!).
NOVEMBER 2019 11
They want to see the breathtaking views at any of the many national parks, active volcanoes and lava fields. They are tempted by some incredible architectural and artistic works, a plethora of scenic hiking trails and, if it is your particular bent, the Icelandic Phallological Museum (yes, you read that correctly), where you can see the world’s largest display of penises and penis parts (you read that correctly too). Imagine the sheer delight of ogling 280 specimens from 93 animal species, including a modest metre-long elephant member and a mere “piece” from the nether regions of a blue whale that measures 170 centimetres, enough to humble any adult movie star. The entire apparatus is estimated to have been about five meters from tip to … er … tail. Dung-smoked spirits seem pretty tame now, right? In any case, the growth of tourism in Iceland has had several positive effects on the country. First, it helped lift the country out of a severe economic slump brought on by the 2008 global financial crisis (somewhat ironically, Iceland now ranks as first in the world for median wealth per adult). Second, it helped grow the hospitality sector (a bonus for big eaters and drinkers) — a fact confirmed by David R. Altshuler, Founder and CEO of Einstök Beer Company, L.P., one of an ever-growing stable of craft breweries springing up across Iceland. Altshuler explained that, until recently, Iceland only had a small stake in the brewing industry: “Iceland does not have a long brewing history. Its version of Prohibition began in 1915 and beer consumption was not legalized until 1989.” Be that as it may, Altshuler claimed a stake in the fledgling brewing industry by turning water into beer. Einstök is now a successful enterprise by any standard. Outside Iceland — the company’s biggest market — you can find Einstök beers in 23 countries, including 20 US states. It may be surprising, then, that the company was formed as the result of a fortuitous change in direction. “Einstök was born from an idea to create a luxury water brand,” Altshuler began. “After extensive research across the globe, we concluded that Iceland had plentiful water sources and the best water. But timing wasn’t great. We had the idea in 2008, and by 2009 the US economy was at a low point and private equity sources were scarce. Our team pivoted by capitalizing on the growing US craft beer market and nascent interest in Iceland as a tourist destination.” The water research, however, came in handy: “It turned out that Icelandic water is the perfect foundation for brewing great beer — it has optimal pH levels and total dissolved solids (TDS). We formed Einstök in 2010. After a year of planning and experimenting with various styles and taste profiles, we shipped our first beer order to the UK in late 2011.” From the get-go, Altshuler had a clear vision for Einstök’s craft beer range. “We decided when we started Einstök not to follow the many craft breweries that introduce a new beer every month,” he revealed. “Instead, we looked at which craft beer styles were lacking great beer and created our best recipe for each style. We now have five core year-round styles and some limited-edition summer and winter beers.” Einstök sourced its ingredients as locally as possible to ensure its beers’ truly unique Icelandic profile. “Water is the 12 NOVEMBER 2019
main ingredient in beer. We use naturally filtered glacier water, which makes our beers unique. It is our ‘secret sauce’.” Altshuler confided. Several of Einstök’s core styles use locally grown Icelandic ingredients. “In our Wee Heavy, we use locally smoked barley, and angelica root — the Vikings’ currency. We use hand-picked bilberries, which are like blueberries, in our Arctic Berry Ale; and we use hand-picked spruce tips in our Winter Ale. Later this year, we will introduce a cocktail-inspired gin and tonic Pilsner that’s brewed with locally sourced junipers.” In keeping with Iceland’s gastronomic evolution, Altshuler beers are brewed with food in mind. “Our brewing philosophy is to produce beers that showcase the incredible Icelandic water, while ensuring that each style is balanced and sessionable. We call our beer The Chef’s Beer because it pairs well with a wide variety of foods. In fact, you can find Einstök at several Michelin star restaurants around the globe,” he concluded. Altshuler did not mention any plans to start incorporating sheep dung-smoked barley in its offering. The same cannot be said for Eimverk Distillery, which uses sheep dung in its Flóki Sheep Dung Smoked Reserve spirit. “We pick only the best dung for this process,” assured Haraldur Haukur Thorkelsson of Eimverk Distillery. I can only assume he is saying this with a straight face at the extreme oxymoron “best dung”. He continued: “Making good sheep dung is an art, and the farmers in Svarfaðardalur in North Iceland are renowned for theirs. We get all of ours from a farm there.” Well, there you go; Iceland has both pure water and designer dung. Thorkelsson spoke about the Icelandic history of dung smoking — sorry, I mean smoking things over dung: “Using sheep dung for smoking food is an age-old tradition in Iceland,” he said. “Sheep dung mixed with hay typically piles up over winter when the sheep stay indoors. When the sheep go out in spring, you dig out the sheep house and dry the dung in the sun over summer. Come fall, you use the dung to smoke and preserve your harvest, be it meat, fish (salmon in particular) or barley.” Fascinating. Yet, you cannot help but wonder what the dung smoke imparts to the spirit if you have not tasted it. “The result is somewhat similar to peat-smoked whisky, which is common in Scotland,” Thorkelsson reported. “Sheep dung is about a year old when used; peat is 1,000 years old. As such, peat-smoked whisky tastes and smells like smoked whisky with a unique character. You should taste a bit of ‘farm’ in there.” For the less adventurous, Eimverk fashions a range of less shi … — sorry — more recognizable spirits. “We make whisky, gin and aquavit following European standards,” Thorkellson reveals. However, any resemblance to typical European spirits ends there. “We decided not to model our whisky and other spirits on any known style,” he explained. “We wanted to recreate a 19th-century Icelandic-style gin. We only used botanicals that were common in Iceland and available to distillers at the time and created our Vor Gin. Most of the botanicals are grown elsewhere, but the combination we use is unique to Iceland.” Besides whisky and gin, Eimverk also crafts Brennivín (another name for an aquavit made in Iceland). Thorkellson says that aquavit is like “the gin of the north.” “It’s common in Iceland
EINSTÖK ICELANDIC WHITE ALE ($4/330 ML)
Brewed with coriander and orange peel, this crisp, pure, easy-drinking white ale is testament to the purity of Iceland’s water. A hazy pale gold in colour, with a persistent, fine head. Mild aromatics suggesting citrus rind and some grassy barley undertones. Very slightly spicy in the mouth, with a super clean almost ethereal mouthfeel. EINSTÖK ICELANDIC WEE HEAVY ($4/330 ML)
and throughout Scandinavia. In the early days of distilling, it was common practice to use herbs to improve the taste of what was often a crude spirit. Usually this was done with some local, lowcost and abundant herb or spice. In Europe, juniper was used for flavouring gin and other spirits. In Iceland, caraway seeds are the primary herb for Brennivín. To fill in the taste profile, we usually add a few other herbs including the Icelandic moss that we put in just about everything. Caraway has been used for centuries in Iceland for cheese, bread and Brennivín, and would usually be grown at most farms practically just outside the kitchen door.” Thorkellson added that Brennivín is typically served neat, chilled or not, often with appetizers, especially fish. He said it also works well in cocktails: “It makes a great margarita for example, or works well just with tonic.” Both Thorkellson and Altshuler will no doubt continue to explore different liquid expressions and push the limits of Icelandic beers and spirits. When asked if he would continue to collect penises, Hjörtur Gísli Sigurðsson, the fellow who erected the Phallological Museum and no doubt mounted the collection, apparently responded that he would: “... always get a better, newer one. A bigger size or better shape, you know?” ×
Based on a Scottish recipe and using local smoked barley (smoked over what, I will not ask) and Icelandic angelica root, this is a smoky, malty, mocha- and coffee-driven full-bodied ale. It has rich flavours of dark chocolate, toasted malt, caramel and nuances of smoked meat. Rich, perfectly balanced and warming. EIMVERK FLÓKI ICELANDIC YOUNG MALT ($75)
Somewhat reminiscent of a traditionally made grappa or marc, with somewhat earthy, grassy barnyard aromas (i.e., a distinct note of hay). Malty, earthy and spicy on the palate, with a peppery, warm finish. Do not approach it as you would a fully mature whisky — it is not one. But it is unique and quite enjoyable. EIMVERK VÍTI BRENNIVÍN ICELANDIC AQUAVIT ($55)
This is beautiful stuff. Distilled from Icelandic barley and flavoured with local caraway, rhubarb, meadow sweet, angelica root, birch leaves, arctic thyme, kale and Icelandic moss. Anise, caraway, vanilla and white pepper on the nose lead to a full, creamy, baking spice and caraway palate and a long, intense finish. I loved it chilled and straight up (unfortunately, I had no pickled herring in the house).
NOVEMBER 2019 13
ROAD TRIP by Treve Ring
Though California commands the lion’s share of American wine consumption, production and attention, Oregon’s Willamette Valley can claim the heart and soul of wine lovers. Understated authenticity remains at the core of Willamette wines, happy to confidently exist in the shadows of their shoutier cousins to the south, and north in Washington State. Where both of those regions excel in power, Willamette delivers finesse. A cooler climate, diverse volcanic, marine sedimentary and silty, loess-based soils and an industry built on farming first have shaped the wine culture.
LAY OF THE LAND
When the pioneering David Lett moved from California to Oregon in 1965 to plant vines, he looked to France for inspiration, choosing Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Meunier, Muscat Ottonel, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay for his newly purchased property, The Eyrie Vineyards. Of course, the entire world now has Papa Pinot to thank for proving that this meandering pastoral valley, known for orchards, hazelnuts and grains, is also prime for vines. The valley runs 100 miles between the Cascade and Coast mountain ranges, reaching 60 miles at its widest point. Of the 23,500 acres under vine, nearly 16,000 acres are Pinot Noir. Pinot Gris has always been second in the running and spotlight, though Chardonnay has proven itself a great success in recent years, with many focusing attention and plantings here. The diversity of cool-climate vineyards is the result of the protection afforded by the twin mountain ranges and a series of lower hill chains to the extreme north of the valley. The majority of vineyards are planted on lower hillsides, avoiding deeply fertile alluvial soils and cooler hilltop mesoclimates. There are seven American Viticultural Areas (or AVAs) nestled within the Willamette, the most recent of which, Van Duzer Corridor, came into effect in Janu14 NOVEMBER 2019
ary 2019. This AVA was seen by many as recognizing the importance of the cool Pacific air that funnels into the valley through a gap in the Coast Range.
START IN THE HEART = PDX
Even though you may have to fly north from Canada to reach Portland (since Portland sits at 45.5 degrees N, while Toronto lies at 43.6 degrees N), the city of 650,000 lucky inhabitants is easy to reach. Portland International Airport (PDX) is an airy, accessible hub connected to downtown Portland via MAX light rail, and its status as a dual civilian/military airport means exciting sightings of F-15s. From Vancouver, it’s a straight shot south on Interstate 5, taking roughly 5 hours by car. A gentle climate at the confluence of the Columbia and Willamette Rivers, and an abundance of greenspace makes it clear why the 25th largest city in the USA is known as The City of Roses. No sales tax, a booming economy, safe and clean streets and a thriving culture (Portlandia is pretty much spot on) make it appealing and easy for visitors. An easy hour drive west of Portland and you’re in the middle of the Willamette’s rich food and wine culture. Having Portland, America’s culinary incu-
bator and curator of cool, so close by has certainly influenced the Willamette, and vice versa. There’s a shared community of winemakers, growers, farmers and producers that is sacrosanct in their willingness to promote and support each other. Like any mature wine culture, however, it’s not only inward looking. Portland is a mecca for food and drink, drawing influence from cultures far beyond Oregon state borders. I always start my visit at Bollywood Theater, a colourful cafeteria serving up Indian street food. Chef Troy MacLarty visits India annually, bringing the flavours, spices and excitement of the vast country to the steel plates and refreshing cocktails of his eastside locations. The Bhel Puri is dream-worthy. Pok Pok is my other can’t-miss spot, with Andy Ricker introducing Thai small plates and snappy exotic cocktails into modern America’s dining lexicon. Portland is also a hotbed for Champagne, and especially grower Champagne, with the independently driven city drawn to Champagne’s small producers. Ambonnay is a tiny bar that is strictly fizz only, with an extensive by-the-glass selection, and 100 or so others by the bottle. If you’re feeling more peckish, Pix Pâtisserie has been named World’s Best Champagne and Sparkling Wine List from 2014 straight through to 2018 by World of Fine Wine
Magazine. With over 400 bottles, many vintage and large format, chef/owner Cheryl Wakerhauser’s patisserie/Champagne bar is a must hit. No small aside, the flip side of her building houses Bar Vivant, an authentic Spanish tapas and sherry bar, where pintxos and conservas pony up to porrons of Spanish wine and cidra. You’d be remiss not to hit a few of Portland’s cocktail spots since the city’s bar scene has been on fire long before bartenders called themselves mixologists. The Multnomah Whiskey Library is a classy, reservation-only booze homage of biblical proportions and thousands of bottles, cementing the city as one of the world’s greats. Satisfy your amaro amour at Solo Club, a tidy, jewel box of a bar that makes bitter better. Until you’ve had a volcano-erupting flaming tiki head of Jet Pilot at Hale Pele, you really haven’t done tiki bars in life. All that said, you can’t go to the city without sitting at the bar at Jeffrey Morgenthaler’s Clyde Common, or downstairs in his hidden basement bar, Pépé le Moko. With Morgenthaler being one of the world’s top bartenders, and founder of the barrel-aged cocktail boom, these are must-stop stools.
WEST TO WILLAMETTE
It’s good to have a home base in the valley, and mine is Red Hills Market. At any point of the day or eve, you can park yourself at this buzzy eatery, soon to be one of your very happy places. Wood-fired breakfast and pizzas, freshly plucked salads, a takeaway counter of locally cured meats and cheeses, rotating taps of local microbrews and bottles from the valley, a full espresso bar and platters of roasted hazelnuts
CLYDE COMMON
NOVEMBER 2019 15
Wineries to Watch For
With more than 560 wineries spread across the Willamette, there is no shortage of wines to taste. Here are some recommended wineries to watch for, along with a tasting note from each (and, yes, going beyond Pinot Noir). GOODFELLOW FAMILY CELLARS WHISTLING RIDGE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2016, AVA RIBBON RIDGE ($60)
From Marcus Goodfellow’s renamed winery (née Matello Cellars) and reflective of his young children / future cellar rats. I’ve been tasting with Marcus for many years, and still firmly believe that he is one of America’s top winemakers. This 2016 Pinot Noir, from Ribbon Ridge AVA’s exceptional marine-sedimentary-soiled Whistling Ridge Vineyard is proof positive. According to Marcus, his “least favourite flavour in wine is dogma.” He seeks out special vineyards around the Willamette, forging strong bonds with the owners, and oversees all the growing for his 4,000-annual case production. This is dry-farmed, 20–30-year-old vine massal selection Pinot (6+ clones), 50 percent whole cluster and with 20 months in French oak (30 percent new). Black raspberry, streamlined and narrow, leads the finessed palate, baked with iris, white pepper, dried herbs and white pepper. Structural, but so finely so, with bamboo tannins suggesting, rather than shouting, framework. Acidity is lofty and tight, creating an energetic flow through the lingering finish. Drinking beautifully now, but Marcus’ wines age incredibly, so I recommend using patience. THE EYRIE VINEYARDS OREGON PINOT BLANC 2016, AVA DUNDEE HILLS ($35)
This limited-edition bottling is of Pinot Blanc from Dundee’s iconic Eyrie Vineyards and Alsatian clones planted over 25 years ago, plus 1990 plantings, and fruit from the neighbouring Tukwila vineyard. Destemming and long, cool aging in stainless (11 months) gives a purity and depth of fruit rarely seen in oft-neglected Pinot Blanc. Yellow apple, orange blossom, white florals, melon and grapefruit pith are padded with fine lees work, textural and very complete. Acidity is finely threaded and nervy, and there’s a steady lick of anise on the finish, which is welcome and inviting. MINIMUS GRÜNER VELTLINER 2017, AVA WILLAMETTE VALLEY ($45)
Minimus was created in 2011 by Chad Stock as a series of one-off experiments, and the line continues to be an incubator for and innovator of Oregon winemaking. They source from sustainable (and stricter) vineyards, and practice low-intervention, native fermentation, utilizing various vessels and working with numerous grapes and clones (many unique to this project). Opening with a bright, flinty flick, this GV was planted in 1977 in Vitae Springs Vineyard, high in the south Salem hills’ volcanic Jory soils, on own roots. It’s believed to be the oldest planting of GV in America. The wine was fermented and aged for nine months in stainless, preserving the purity and crisp fruit. Lemon and meadow herbs are scented with elderflower and kissed with flake salts that run the long, slender palate to a bright finish. Acidity is shining, balancing the gentle lees well. Lovely poise and balance in this 12.4-degree wine.
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LINGUA FRANCA BUNKER HILL ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2016, AVA WILLAMETTE VALLEY ($55)
Though the spacious, simple Lingua Franca winemaking facility may be brand new, the men behind the project — Larry Stone, David Honig and Dominique Lafon — need little introduction in wine circles. Young Burgundian winemaker Thomas Savre is turning out masterful wines, making this new winery one to watch. The BHV Chardonnay is made with more than 20-year-old Clone 76 fruit grown on Nekia soils at an altitude of 700 feet in Salem, exposed to the cooling winds of the Van Duzer corridor. After a native ferment and natural settling, this wine went into 70 percent new oak puncheons for a year before light filtration and bottling. Flint lined and licked with wet stone, this structural wine amazes with its lightness of touch, and darting lemon, pear skin and verbena notes. Very impressive.
COASTAL GOALS
If you’re in the Willamette, you absolutely must add on a night or two on the Oregon Coast. Unlike BC’s rocky, pine- and cedar-spired Pacific coastline, Oregon has wide expanses of vast, sandy beaches and a great culture of tiny seaside towns dotting the length of the state. A quick 90-minute, mountainous and forested drive will land you in Pacific City, home to Headlands Coastal Lodge. Neighbouring Cape Kiwanda State Natural Area, the eco-chic lodge offers full ocean views and patios from all suites, numerous recreational activities and boat-toplate-driven dining at Meridian Restaurant. The shoreside lodge neighbours a giant sand dune, which is well worth the hike.
More to watch for LOVE & SQUALOR
www.portlandwinecompany.com JOHAN VINEYARDS
www.johanvineyards.com BIG TABLE FARM
www.bigtablefarm.com BECKHAM ESTATE
www.beckhamestatevineyard.com BROOKS WINES PIX PÂTISSERIE
www.brookswine.com EVENING LAND VINEYARDS
www.eveninglandvineyards.com
will keep you satiated and satisfied. Oh yeah, and you can grab many of Oregon’s top bottles from the shelf for your future picnic. Conveniently located in Dundee, mid-valley, plan on stopping here numerous times during your visit. A quick 15 minutes farther down the road and you’ll be in the town of McMinnville, home of the annual International Pinot Noir Celebration. Book into Thistle, a tiny, unassuming 24-seat resto tucked just off the town’s main strip. Food and wine lovers have been flocking to Eric Bechard’s restaurant since it opened in 2009. A strong, unyielding commitment to local farmers and producers won them many fans from the start, and an authentic, ever-changing menu plus a deep, eclectic wine list have kept it fresh.
While Portland is stacked with trendy boutique hotels (I highly recommend booking into any in the Provenance Hotels group), the valley is thankfully much sleepier. Book ahead for one of the private and spacious vineyard suites at Dundee Hills’ Red Ridge Farms. One of the first family pioneers of grape growing in the area, they produce their own line of Durant Vineyards wines, while continuing to supply fruit to other vintners. Their property also is home to Oregon Olive Mill, one of the largest olive groves in Oregon. If you’re looking for a luxurious getaway, check into the Allison Inn & Spa, with 35 manicured acres and 85 sumptuous guestrooms with balconies and fireplaces. Jory, the resort’s restaurant, showcases hundreds of local labels. ×
WALTER SCOTT WINES
www.walterscottwine.com NICOLAS JAY
www.nicolas-jay.com FLANEUR WINES
www.flaneurwines.com BRICKHOUSE
www.brickhousewines.com BOW & ARROW
www.bowandarrowwines.com KELLY FOX
www.kelleyfoxwines.com
NOVEMBER 2019 17
PLANTING WITH A CROWBAR by W Blake Gray
I’m going to let you in on a secret. Some of the best Syrah in North America is being grown in the Oregon part of Washington, so to speak.
If that sounds like a riddle, welcome to the bureaucratic hassle that comes with a wine region that has a name that is at once way too long and precisely descriptive: The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater Viticultural Area. First, let me tantalize you with a taste of the wines. They’re savoury, not fruit driven, and you can usually pick them out of a lineup by their complexity and funkiness. They are true products of their unique terroir, which was (and still is) mainly used for apple farms until an idiosyncratic Frenchman named Christophe Baron decided in the late-1990s that the stony terrain would be perfect for making the wines of his dreams. Today, Baron’s biodynamic wines from Cayuse Vineyards, which he farms using horses instead of tractors, are some of the most-sought-after mailing-list wines in the U.S. But Baron — who basically created viticulture in the region from scratch — doesn’t like the name of the AVA, so he doesn’t use it. And for a weird bureaucratic reason, neither does almost any other winery. The Rocks is actually in Oregon, but it’s also part of the larger Walla Walla Valley AVA. The great majority of the Walla Walla Valley AVA is in Washington. (In fact, if you’re looking for a great town in which to spend a few days wine tasting, Walla Walla is one of the best in the U.S.: small and friendly, with tasting rooms you can walk to and good restaurants in the compact downtown area.) But there is a swath of Walla Walla Valley AVA in Oregon. The Rocks is an outlier in Oregon wine: while it’s one of the coolest sections of the Walla Walla AVA, it’s significantly warmer than the Willamette Valley, where most of Oregon’s Pinot Noir comes from. Milton-Freewater is an economically depressed
TODD ALEXANDER, WINEMAKER AT FORCE MAJEURE
18 NOVEMBER 2019
CAYUSE CAILLOUX VINEYARD SYRAH 2016 ($160)
This is the OG of wines from The Rocks. Christophe Baron kicked off viticulture in this district in this stony vineyard, which makes these the oldest Rocks vines you’ll find. It’s annually one of the best wines as well, even as the Cayuse portfolio expands to include new vineyards planted even tighter. This wine is co-fermented with Viognier, which gives the aroma a lift: pretty floral hints play around dark fruits and salty, meaty notes. A good bottle to spend an evening with. NO GIRLS LA PACIENCIA VINEYARD GRENACHE 2015 ($185)
town about a 10-minute drive south of the Washington border; most vignerons who work in the region live in or around Walla Walla. Oregon’s wine industry has paid scant attention to Milton-Freewater, and why should it? Most wineries making wine from the grapes are based in Washington. THEREIN LIES THE PROBLEM. United States law does not al-
low wineries in one state to use an AVA name on a bottle of wine if that AVA lies in another state. You might think of this as the Texas-Napa rule, because that’s what it is intended to prevent: wineries in Texas from trucking grapes halfway across the continent to ferment and bottle a wine that has Napa Valley on the label. However, it’s a little silly to tell a winery in Walla Walla that it can’t use The Rocks AVA for grapes picked about 10 miles away. Nobody ever said U.S. wine law has to be sensible. The upshot is that most wines from The Rocks are simply labelled as Walla Walla Valley. Some of Washington’s best wineries — including Rôtie Cellars, Buty, Betz and Doubleback — make wines from The Rocks but are not allowed to say it on the label. Most have back-label allusions to stoniness, but let’s face it: any wine can say anything on the back label. You have to know that the wine is from there. There aren’t many open secrets in today’s U.S. wine world, so wines from The Rocks might be top of the list. The wines aren’t cheap, though, because The Rocks is a difficult place to farm. The Rocks is a literal name: the ground in much of the AVA is just rocks. “At The Rocks, we plant with a crowbar,” says Nina Buty, owner of Buty Winery. “It’s really laborious.” In growing season, the rocks are an advantage. They hold the heat of the sun and they continue to ripen the grapes after the sun has set. But the winters are cold, and just as Norman Hardie does in Prince Edward County, some growers bury the vines to protect them from killing frost. However, because there isn’t much soil in many vineyards, this can be as hard as planting.
There’s an elaborate joke behind this name. The label contains a photo of writing on the wall of an old building in downtown Walla Walla; it’s believed to have signified that a bordello in the building had closed. Christophe Baron gives over the winemaking duties here to his assistant Elizabeth Bourcier, and she crafts a minerally, complex Grenache at the knife-edge of ripeness. You might notice wild berries, mushrooms, fresh herbs and plenty of funkiness. BUTY ROCKGARDEN ESTATE REDVIVA OF THE STONES 2016 ($75)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, this wine underpins its earthy and bacon-fat flavours with lively cherry fruit and textural smoothness from the Cab. A good entry into wines from The Rocks, which gives you a hint of the funk without going overboard. RÔTIE CELLARS NORTHERN BLEND 2015 ($55)
Made from 94% Syrah co-fermented with Viognier, this wine balances between lively New World blackberry fruit and Old World earthiness and funkiness. It’s meaty and floral at the same time. REYNVAAN FAMILY VINEYARDS GRENACHE BLANC 2016 ($70)
White wines from The Rocks are very unusual, so this is a standout. The grapes were planted for blending, but the wine from them is so complete that it doesn’t need it. The wine has excellent balance and a purity of flavour, mostly restrained citrus fruit. It’s good now, but it might be interesting to see how it develops in the cellar. THE WALLS CONCRETE MAMA GRENACHE 2016 ($100)
An elegant wine that delivers both red and black fruit with good length and a nice finish. Not as funky as most Rocks reds, but it does offer an undertone of stoniness. Maybe it’s psychological from the name and the label, but it feels like you can taste concrete in this wine.
NOVEMBER 2019 19
In summer, the high temperatures are lower than the rest of the Walla Walla Valley, but — perhaps because of the rocks — the diurnal variation isn’t as great. This means wines from The Rocks have a higher pH than wines from places where the temperature drops more at night. You can taste this: it’s part of the experience. “[Rocks wines] have a higher pH but a higher total acidity too,” says Force Majeure winemaker Todd Alexander. “There’s a salinity to them.” Force Majeure spent a fair amount of money developing its original vineyard on Washington’s Red Mountain, but the company likes The Rocks so much that it is turning an abandoned elementary school in Milton-Freewater into a winery. It will be able to say The Rocks on the label! Soon it won’t be alone. Maison Bleue has been making Rocks wines over the Washington border, but it is building a winery in the district, and it got a $250,000 grant from the city of Milton-Freewater to explore turning it into a shared facility that other wineries could also make wine in. “Quite a few winemakers are making wines from The Rocks in smaller amounts, that we could have in our facility, [which] would allow them to accurately label and market the wines,” said Christine Clair, director of Willamette Valley Vineyards, which bought Maison Bleue in 2015. “Our location is right at the entrance on Highway 11. It also provides the opportunity to sell the wines in a collaborative way.”
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Clair cautions that they won’t have room for everyone, but they will have more free space than one might normally expect from an 8,000-case winery. “It’s much different from the Willamette Valley because, there, we have a lot of tanks for white wines,” Clair says. “There’s not much white wine up in The Rocks.” The fledgling region has already drawn international attention. Bodegas Valdemar from Rioja has bought land for its first project outside of Spain, and plans to plant Spanish varieties, most likely including Tempranillo. The main grapes now are Rhône grapes, especially Syrah, which thrives in the cool climate. Some wineries have also planted Cabernet Sauvignon, but Alexander says that, perhaps counterintuitively, Cabernet from The Rocks tends to be lighter than Syrah. As for the flavours ... everyone says “funky” at first, but then they will drill down a little further. “You’re getting things like olives and brine and smoke,” says Buty winemaker Chris Dowsett. “Seaweed. Things that aren’t really fruit driven. I think it’s safer saying something like ‘funk’ than saying something like ‘seaweed’ or ‘smoke.’” The other parts of the Walla Walla Valley, and also nearby Red Mountain, are fully capable of delivering the fruit-driven wines people tend to expect from the U.S. It’s the different taste profile from anywhere else on the U.S. West Coast that makes The Rocks exciting and worth a visit — even if you have to sleep and eat across the state line. ×
IN THE VINES by Michael Apstein
Everyone knows that white wine from Burgundy (Bourgogne in French) is made from the Chardonnay grape, while the red wines come from Pinot Noir. Well, as it turns out — as with most things French — there are exceptions.
NOVEMBER 2019 21
TRAPET PÈRE ET FILS A MINIMA 2017, PASSETOUTGRAINS ($30)
Trapet, one of the great producers in Gevrey-Chambertin, makes a wonderful Passetoutgrains. The eye-catching minimalist — almost blank — label belies the enjoyment that this wine delivers. The savoury and spicy side of this fruity, but not fruit-focused, wine is what’s so appealing. Deeply satisfying for what it is, it’s just what you want with an informal dinner of grilled sausages.
MAISON LOUIS LATOUR
MAISON LOUIS LATOUR PINOT NOIR LES PIERRES DORÉES 2017, CÔTEAUX BOURGUIGNONS ($26)
Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s star producers, has been making stylish Pinot Noir-based wine outside of Burgundy in the south of France. Now, they show it can be done in Beaujolais. Subtle earthy nuances perfectly offset juicy flavours in this mid-weight wine. The barest hint of tannic bitterness in the finish is a welcome component. It’s a perfect “roast chicken” kind of wine. WILLIAM FÈVRE 2018, SAINT-BRIS ($25)
William Fèvre, one of Chablis’ top producers, has fashioned a stunning example of Saint-Bris. Tightly wound, it conveys abundant mineral-like flavours after sitting in the glass for 15 minutes. A subtle bite of Sauvignon Blanc reminds you of the grape in this clean and cutting wine. It has remarkable depth and length. SIMONNET-FEBVRE 2017, SAINT-BRIS ($20)
Simonnet-Febvre, another superb Chablis producer, crafts a consistently balanced Saint-Bris. The initial whiff screams Sauvignon Blanc, but amazingly within minutes, aromas and then flavours of wet stone appear. Clean and cutting, this edgy wine displays plenty of depth. Where are the steamed clams? DOMAINE PAUL PERNOT ET FILS BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ 2017 ($33)
Based in Puligny-Montrachet, this family-owned and run domaine is one of Burgundy’s best for whites. Of course, their Bâtard-Montrachet and Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet are stunning. But the care that goes into those Grand Crus is also seen in their Bourgogne Aligoté. Energetic, with citrus-tinged acidity, it’s a mouth-cleansing wine that has remarkable depth and purity. A true “dust buster,” to use a phrase my friend John Hayes coined. PONSOT MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 1ER CRU CLOS DES MONTS LUISANTS VIEILLES VIGNES 2009 ($180)
The only 1er cru white Burgundy that does not contain Chardonnay, this 100% Aligoté has the spice, energy and electricity you’d expect from that grape. But it’s coupled with the opulence of the 2009 vintage and a lanolin-like texture. It’s weightless, yet powerful. It’s deep and concentrated, yet, amazingly, not heavy. It certainly shows the heights this humble grape can achieve. 22 NOVEMBER 2019
Burgundy is also home to another white grape, Aligoté and, mon Dieu, to Sauvignon Blanc as well. On the red side, it’s common knowledge that Gamay is the Beaujolais grape. It was banished from the Côte-d’Or by Philippe le Hardi (aka, Phillip the Bold), the Duke of Burgundy, in 1395. Royal decree notwithstanding, there’s still Gamay planted in top spots in the Côted’Or where some highly regarded producers make a little-known, but delightful and affordable, wine called Bourgogne Passetoutgrains. Gamay also plays a major role in a new Burgundy appellation, Côteaux Bourguignons. Let’s start with Aligoté. Jancis Robinson, the world-renowned British wine authority, noted earlier this year that Aligoté “used to be uncomfortably thin and tart.” While some still is, those produced by top producers are refreshing and balanced. Grown on about 4,500 acres throughout the Côte-d’Or and in the Chablis area (compared to 37,500 acres for Chardonnay), Aligoté has traditionally been used as the base for Kir. Also known as vin blanc cassis, Kir is a delightfully refreshing aperitif named after a mayor of Dijon. The typical mix is a dash (teaspoon or so) of cassis syrup added to a glass of Aligoté. The syrup imparts a gorgeous pale, purplish red colour. The sweetness of the syrup balances the ferocious acidity of the grape, which is why I suspect it was invented. (A Kir Royale is made with sparkling wine.) Not all Aligoté should be relegated to Kir. Indeed, one of the finest white wines from all of Burgundy — from the Côte de Nuits
no less — Domaine Ponsot’s Morey St Denis Premier Cru, Clos des Monts Luisants Vieilles Vignes, is made entirely from Aligoté, although you wouldn’t know it from the label. The 2009, consumed over dinner earlier this year, was spectacular at a decade of age, showing a near-magical combination of vivacity and minerality. (The 2015, the current vintage on the market, sells for $210.) The Domaine Ponsot website notes that in the pre-phylloxera days, Aligoté was widely planted in the best part of the slope, the top where the soil was thinnest, on the Hill of Corton, and in Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet. With replanting after phylloxera, growers opted for the more reliable and faster producing Chardonnay vines, relegating most Aligoté — though not Ponsot’s — to the flat land. Bourgogne Aligoté is typically drunk young to capture its cutting, zesty profile. A friend of mine aptly described these wines as “dust busters.” One does not need to spend vast sums to enjoy Aligoté. Because of its down-market reputation, the prices for Bourgogne Aligoté — even from star producers — have not caught up to their quality. Look for those from Domaine Paul Pernot in Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Marc Colin et Fils in Saint-Aubin or Domaine Goisot in the Côtes d’Auxerre near Chablis. All three consistently make delightfully refreshing and balanced versions. Bouzeron, where Chardonnay is forbidden, is the only appellation that mandates Aligoté. Located in the Côte Chalonnaise,
the appellation is tiny — only about 130 acres — but the wines are worth searching for. Jasper Morris, a world authority on Burgundy, notes that the grape grown in Bouzeron, Aligoté Doré (as in “golden”), is superior to the one grown throughout the Côte-d’Or. At a tasting of the wines in Beaune last year with 20 Bouzeron producers participating, there was hardly one I would not have been happy to drink. As with other Aligoté-based wines, Bouzeron wines are typically drunk young. What really opened my eyes at this tasting was some beautiful examples of Bouzeron that had up to a decade of bottle age. Its chiselled aspect remained, balancing and, indeed, enhancing a subtle creaminess. THE BURGUNDY APPELLATION OF SAINT-BRIS, WITH A LITTLE OVER 400 ACRES, IS A TRUE OUTLIER, BOTH GEOGRAPHICALLY AND VITICULTURALLY, SITTING IN THE AUXERROIS JUST WEST OF CHABLIS AND MANDATING THE USE OF SAUVIGNON BLANC. A close look at the map might
explain the choice of grape. The village from which the appellation takes its name, Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, lies only 80 miles east of Pouilly-sur-Loire, home to Sauvignon Blanc-based Pouilly-Fumé, and Sancerre. Like much of Sancerre, Saint-Bris sits on a Kimmeridgian limestone and clay mixture, but then again, so does most of Chablis, where Chardonnay grows. Indeed, before phylloxera ravaged the area, the farmers of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux grew Chardonnay that could be included in, and sold as, Chablis. NOVEMBER 2019 23
Formerly, the wines were labelled Sauvignon de SainBris because the area was classified as a vin délimité de qualité supérieure (VDQS), a notch below appellation d’origine controllée (AOC) status. In 2003, the area was promoted to AOC status. It’s not clear why Sauvignon Blanc wound up in this part of Burgundy. One explanation for this viticultural aberrancy is Saint-Bris’ historic economic connection to Auxerre, a town to the west and even closer to Sancerre and an important commercial centre for those wines. Another very plausible explanation is that Sauvignon Blanc ripens better in many of the surrounding valleys compared to Chardonnay, and growers favoured it when replanting after phylloxera. Whatever the reason, I predict we’ll see more of these riveting wines as climate change aids ripening in these northern climes. The wines from Saint-Bris are unique: a bit of a cross between Sancerre and Chablis. Racy and snappy, they are also similar to Muscadet, but with more body and density. Meant to be drunk young, the wines of Saint-Bris go brilliantly with shellfish or crustaceans, though their mineral-infused edginess also allows them to balance more substantial fare, such as a roast pork or Asian-spiced dishes. The family-run Domaine Goisot makes absolutely stellar Saint-Bris. Look also for Goisot’s superb Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre, made from Chardonnay, as well as their Chablis. Indeed, any of Goisot’s wines would make for wise choices, a true “no-brainer.” Easier to find and still very good are Saint-Bris from the larger Chablis producers, such as Domaine William Fèvre or Simonnet-Febvre. Philip the Bold exiled the “bad and disloyal” Gamay from the Côte-d’Or with his edict of 1395 because he felt it diluted the quality of the region’s Pinot Noir-based wines. That Gamay grew in the Côte-d’Or should come as no surprise since its origin is likely from the hamlet of the same name near Saint-Aubin. I have no idea how successfully enforced the edict was, but knowing the French, I suspect it was likely not observed by everyone. Gamay grows in the Côte-d’Or today and has since at least the early part of the 20th century but likely far earlier. The grape was clearly important there in the 20th century because one of the initial Bourgogne AOCs in 1937, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (originally, and sometimes today still, written as Passe-toutgrains), mandated the inclusion of Gamay with Pinot Noir. The regulations have changed since 1937, but the AOC still requires a minimum of 15 percent Gamay (officially known as Gamay noir à jus blanc, to distinguish it from other varieties of Gamay) while Pinot Noir must comprise at least 30 percent of the blend. Importantly, the wine is not a blend of wines made from those two grapes. Instead, the grapes must be co-fermented, which likely was a hold-over from times when they were planted in the same vineyard and harvested together. That custom likely gave rise to its name, which translated means “throw everything in.” Many notable and well-regarded Côte de Nuits producers, such as Domaine Trapet Père et Fils and Domaine Robert Groffier Père et Fils, to name just two, bottle a Passetoutgrains. The wines can be a wallet-friendly introduction to these producers, whose other wines are generally unaffordable for most of us. The allure of Passetoutgrains for me is that it combines the charm of Gamay with the seriousness of Pinot Noir, while still 24 NOVEMBER 2019
transmitting the sense of place for which Burgundy is known. These wines, meant to be drunk young, are the quintessential roast chicken wines and are ideal for an informal dinner. An important plus is their price, usually less than $30 a bottle. Passetoutgrains from Domaine Michel Lafarge are consistently excellent in my experience. TODAY, GAMAY IS MOSTLY GROWN SOUTH OF THE CÔTED’OR, IN THE MÂCONNAIS AND BEAUJOLAIS, WHERE IT FLOURISHES IN GRANITIC-BASED SOILS. Growers there,
as well as throughout the Côte-d’Or and indeed the rest of Burgundy, can take advantage of a new AOC, Côteaux Bourguignons, established only in 2011. This appellation replaces Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, which frankly, I have never seen in North America, perhaps because a “grandly ordinary” wine is a marketer’s nightmare. I’ve already tasted plenty of Côteaux Bourguignons on these shores and judging from my initial experience, look forward to trying more. The regulations for Côteaux Bourguignons are lax and encompass red, whites and rosés. The grapes can be grown throughout Burgundy, including Beaujolais. The wines can be made from a blend of grapes or from a single variety. For the whites, the allowed grapes are Chardonnay, Aligoté, Melon de Bourgogne, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. For the reds and rosés, the allowed grapes are Pinot Noir and Gamay and César, a lesser-known grape found in the Yvonne near Chablis. Practically speaking, this new appellation allows producers in Beaujolais to label their wines as Côteaux Bourguignons instead of Beaujolais. To what extent this occurs remains to be seen. Many Beaujolais producers to whom I’ve spoken will still use the Beaujolais appellation, preferring to rely on the newly rising reputation of Beaujolais. The great potential of this appellation is that conscientious producers will be able to make more Passetoutgrains-type wines and have greater flexibility to experiment. Indeed, Stéphane Magnien, a top producer in Morey-Saint-Denis, has started to use Côteaux Bourguignons in place of Passetoutgrains for his alluring blend of equal parts of Pinot Noir and Gamay, which is labelled “Tradition.” The appellation may have changed, but the wine continues to be a winner. Maison Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, has started making Pinot Noir-based wines in Beaujolais and bottling them under the Côteaux Bourguignons appellation. Latour took the plunge in 2012 by planting roughly 45 acres of Pinot Noir in the Pierres Dorées, an area in southern Beaujolais so-named for the golden colour of the limestone rocks. Emeric Teyssou, who oversees viticulture for Latour, explained that the soil there is a marl-y limestone mixture similar to that found in the Côte-d’Or rather than the volcanic granite that is common in the cru of Beaujolais. Interesting, Domaine du Mont Verrier, a Beaujolais producer that formerly sold Pinot Noir grapes to Latour, is bottling their own. The thread common in these unusual wines — Aligoté, SaintBris, Passetoutgrains and Côteaux Bourguignons — is the upscale pleasure they can provide at down-market prices. It turns out that in Burgundy it’s very much worth straying from the wellworn Chardonnay and Pinot Noir paths. ×
WAKENING by Konrad Ejbich
Ask for white wine anywhere in Spain — in a restaurant, tavern, tapas bar, at a grocery store or in a wine shop — and it’s likely that the first thing you’ll be offered is Verdejo from Rueda.
Ask about Verdejo in Canada and most restaurateurs, bar owners and product consultants will go cross-eyed. The sad result is that there’s a serious lack of selection in Canadian stores. The few I was able to find ranged in price from $13 to $21. In the free markets of New York, London and Amsterdam, there are many independent wine shops with a much wider selection of the regular, barrel-fermented and organic Verdejos produced by the region’s 69 wineries. So why have so few people in Canada heard of it? Marco Yllera, owner of Grupo Yllera, which produces a terrific collection of stainless-steel and barrel-fermented whites, and spends much of his time and money promoting the region, states bluntly that Verdejo is an unknown grape and Rueda is an underappreciated region in an overlooked country. And what a region it is. Rueda is largest grape-growing appellation in the larger wine region of Castilla y León in central Spain. It was officially recognized in 1980
with its own Denominacion de Origen (DO) as the long-standing home of the Verdejo grape variety. Eighty-six percent of the plantings in the region are Verdejo. Some say the grape was brought from North Africa more than 1,000 years ago; some say it was already here in the first century, when the Romans built the massive aqueduct still standing in the town of Segovia. Situated about 175 kilometres northwest of Madrid, Rueda is on a wide, flattish seabed lifted by the pressure of continental plates colliding over the ages. Today, it is a high limestone plateau averaging 600 to 800 metres above sea level. The region is surrounded on three sides by mountains and is cut through the middle by the valley of the meandering Duero River, which flows slowly westward from Spain through Portugal (where it is called Douro) and empties into the ocean at Oporto. The long, narrow valley cut by the river forms a long corridor, permitting warm Atlantic winds to blow constantly through the region.
Soils here are distinctly alluvial with a high concentration of lime and clay that’s peppered with sand, silt and river stones. The land is so poor that it is only capable of supporting grapes, pine trees for their resin and some grains. The surrounding mountain ranges, silty soils and river draining the plateau are three of the fortuitous conditions that have prevented the dreaded vine louse Phylloxera vastatrix from penetrating the area. In the mid-19th century, the insect devastated European vineyards. As much as four percent of the grapes cultivated in Rueda grow on headpruned bush vines that are 150 years of age or older. Incredibly, these ancient stumps annually pump out three kilograms of grapes per vine, no less than the mechanically harvested newer plantings grown on American rootstocks and trained in tight rows on wires. Summers are blisteringly hot and desert dry — average daily temperatures for July and August are above 28˚C — so wines made here should taste ripe and NOVEMBER 2019 25
MARQUÉS DE RISCAL RUEDA VERDEJO 2018 ($13.40)
The only Verdejo that’s widely available throughout Canada. Pale straw gold hue; inviting aromas of green apple, lemon, tropical fruits, wild fennel and a final hint of almond pit in the swallow. Solid texture in a light wine, terrific balance and freshness. Clean, pleasant aftertaste. HERMANOS LURTON RUEDA VERDEJO LA PERDIZ 2018 ($15.85)
A fullish, fruity nose, lightly scented with crushed herbs. Clean palate, midweight and supple with vibrant acidity and wholesome minerality. Winery owner François Lurton produces wines with a distinct “Frenchness” to them in style and elegance. FINCA MONTEPEDROSO VERDEJO 2017 ($21)
Owned by the Martinez-Bujanda family of wineries, Montepedroso makes only one wine but we had the pleasure of tasting several vintages going back to 2014 and forward to 2018. If you thought Rueda Verdejos need to be drunk young, put away a few extra bottles of this. It’s green-gold, bitter and mineral laden with a clean, full-fruit palate from the get-go. With each year, this solid white develops fullness and depth, adding a golden colour and butter-fried lemon, fennel and honey notes. It tops out at about five years. JAVIER SANZ VINEYARD VERDEJO 2017 ($17)
Minimum age of these vines is 40 years. Clean pale and dry with a nose more characteristic of Sauvignon Blanc. Dry with solid mouthfeel, plump pineapple-grapefruit flavours and palate-refreshing acidity. AGRICOLA CASTELLANA CUATROS RAYAS VINEDOS CENTENARIOS 2017 ($17.50)
Produced from century-old, handpicked pre-phylloxera bush vines. Pale golden colour with a rich honey and fennel bouquet. Plump and luscious palate with refreshing acidity in the finish. 26 NOVEMBER 2019
muscular with big flavours. But there are huge temperature swings from day to night. This diurnal difference of almost 20 degrees helps preserve high acidity, giving the wines freshness and bite. Harvesting is often done during the night to capture this brisk acidity and local winemaking practices are all geared toward preserving it through to bottling. The result is bold, aromatic, savoury, mouth-filling wines with tension and zing. Although Rueda has been producing amazing, concentrated white wines from Verdejo grapes for as many as 2,000 years, the region was only officially recognized in 1980. Before that, the wine was sold in bulk and quenched the thirst of locals. In the early 1970s, famous Rioja producer Marqués de Riscal wanted to add a white wine to its portfolio and set about to commercialize the highly regarded local Verdejo grapes of neighbouring Rueda. When it was finally released, the new Marqués de Riscal Rueda Verdejo was a huge hit on the export market. Soon other wineries followed their lead.
During my five-day visit, I drank Verdejo with every meal and never got bored. It was awesome with oysters and octopus, fabulous with fish, totally laid back with lamb loins, shone with suckling pig in Segovia and was totally terrific with all types of tapas. Tasting with colleagues on the trip prompted comparisons with French Chablis, Austrian Grüner Veltliner and Greek Assyrtiko. One of them, sports broadcaster Matt Cauz, offered up the best descriptor: “It’s Pinot Grigio with attitude.” Rueda Verdejo can smell quite green and herbal like Sauvignon Blanc but tends towards more elegant nuances of fennel in place of cut grass. The taste is green apple, grapefruit and stone fruits, like peach and apricot. The occasional tropical fruit note can be found on the palate while the texture is clean and squeaky with thick, solid mouthfeel. It can have a slight almond-pit bitterness in the end palate with mouth-watering acidity and mouth-drying minerality. Hence the tension and zing. Now for the hard part ... finding some. × PHOTO: KONRAD EJBICH
BUYING GUIDE
All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to find the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new. Afterall, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and will likely vary from province to province. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, so check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Michelle Bouffard, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Tim Pawsey, Michaela Morris, Jordan St. John and Jonathan Smithe. *Available through private import and online wine clubs
SPARKLING
lemons and limes. Quite tart, tastes like an unsweetened lemon pie, complete with the marshmallowy taste of the meringue. Drink now. (RL)
LE CONTESSE DOC PROSECCO NV, ITALY ($11)
PARÉS BALTA CAVA PINK BRUT NV, SPAIN ($23)
Imported for Costco. Unusually, this Prosecco undergoes only a single fermentation. Pale yellow with coarse bubbles, it has an austere but attractive nose of pineapple, apple and a bit of marshmallow. Slightly sweet, it tastes of apples, limes and oranges. Drink now. (RL) KIRKLAND ASOLO DOCG PROSECCO SUPERIORE NV, ITALY ($11)
Pale yellow with coarse bubbles. Medium-intensity fruity nose of peaches, oranges and pineapples. Tart on the palate, tasting of peaches and apricots, with a custardy finish. Drink now. (RL) VILLA TERESA DOC PROSECCO NV, ITALY ($14)
Made to biologique standards, this is very pale yellow, with coarse bubbles. Floral nose with some tangerine notes. Light-bodied with general citrus and apple flavours. Drink now. (RL) LA MARCA DOC PROSECCO NV, ITALY ($14)
So pale it is almost clear, with ample fine mousse. Reticent nose hinting of
Certified organic and biodynamic sparkling wine from higher elevation plantings in Cataluña. Aged on the lees for 18 months. This blend of Garnacha, Parellada and Macabeu is medium salmon in the glass. It sports a fine stream with a frothy mousse before lifted red berries with a crisp clean strawberry- and raspberry-toned palate with a touch of brioche. Excellent organic value. (TP) JOIEFARM QUOTIDIEN BRUT 2018, CANADA ($24.26)
A very appealing, refreshing and delightfully effervescent Charmat-method sparkler. A blend of Riesling (70%) and Chardonnay (30%) presents with a persistent and lively mousse before a crisp, mouth-filling palate of citrus and tropical flavours wrapped in bright acidity through a gently toasty finish. (TP) FITZ BLANC DE NOIR 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($35)
From one of the Okanagan Valley’s few dedicated sparkling wine estates, a cooler site tucked under the west
side mountains. A very lively stream of fine bubbles with a good mousse. Citrus and nutty notes on top followed by a mouth-filling palate of dark cherry and citrus with excellent depth and texture. Definite “pinosity” and good length with juicy acidity before lingering cherry chocolate and zest on the finish. (TP) MEYER FAMILY VINEYARDS EXTRA BRUT NV, OKANAGAN FALLS ($40)
MFV’s inaugural sparkler yields a stream of fine bubbles and a persistent mousse, forward orchard notes with pear, green apple and touches of mineral and citrus in the finish, leesy notes and well textured with a creamy, lingering end. (TP) LELARGE PUGEOT TRADITION BRUT, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($65)
Located in Vrigny, this small Champagne house of 8.7 hectares, which has the organic and biodynamic certifications, is producing elegant bubbles from premier cru vineyards. Tradition is a blend of 65% Meunier, 20% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay with 70% from the 2014 vintage blended with reserve wine. Tangy acidity balanced by complex notes of brioche and redcurrants with a delicate and fine mousse that caresses the taste buds. Well-integrated dosage and a lingering finish. (MB) NOVEMBER 2019 27
BUYING GUIDE WHITE
FRANCE LES VIGNES DES BILA-HAUT AC CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON 2017 ($13)
$20 AND UNDER
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA HARPER’S TRAIL FIELD BLEND WHITE 2018, THOMPSON VALLEY ($13.99)
Upfront stone fruit and tropical notes followed by a gently off-dry palate of citrus, peach and grapefruit, with a juicy refreshing note through the close and a touch of minerality. (TP) MEYER FAMILY VINEYARDS GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2018, OKANAGAN FALLS ($18)
Sustainably farmed according to organic practices (not certified). From 25-yearold vines on a south west facing slope of alluvial and glacial deposits. Lifted notes of rose petal precede fruit and acidity perfectly in balance with a pleasing touch of viscosity through a ginger- and spice-toned close. (TP) HARPER’S TRAIL PIONEER BLOCK RIESLING 2018, THOMPSON VALLEY ($18.29)
Vibrant upfront citrus, orchard fruits and schist hints lead to a zesty, lively palate of lemon and lime wrapped in juicy acidity with green apple and mineral hints through a generous close. (TP) INTERSECTION ESTATE WINERY VIOGNIER 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($19)
Upfront orchard, stone fruit and floral notes, followed by a fresh, well-textured palate of apple, nectarine and pear, with extra heft from well-managed, neutral, old French oak, underpinned by a creamy note through the lingering finish with just a touch of acidity. Good value. (TP) 28 NOVEMBER 2019
Pale gold. Fairly strong and attractive nose of canned pears and peaches with banana and butter/lipstick overtones. Medium-bodied with slightly thin peach and pear flavours and a nice bitterness on the finish that makes this, like many Rhone whites, a versatile food wine. Drink now. (RL) GREECE DOMAINE PAPAGIANNAKOS SAVATIANO VIEILLES VIGNES 2018, MARKOPOULO IGP ($17)
Representing the third generation, Vassilis Papagiannakos shows how interesting Savatiano can be when taken seriously. Perfectly adapted to Attica’s extreme hot and dry climate, the indigenous grape thrives without any irrigation. This wine is made from vines averaging 50 years of age. Medium body with pretty aromas of pear and citrus with fresh acid and a nice mouth-coating texture. Outstanding value. Shines with seared scallops, halibut and, of course, grilled octopus. (MB) SPAIN TORO BRAVO VERDEJO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018, LA MANCHA ($7.95)
Palest lime in colour; lightly smoky, grassy nose of dried grass. Medium-bodied, lemony, green plum and green fig flavours with tangy acidity. Tart but refreshing. A wine for seafood. House-wine worthy. (TA)
fermented and aged in stainless steel. From a very warm year, the earliest harvest on record. Floral and citrus notes up front lead to a fresh, citrusand mineral-toned dry palate with good mouthfeel wrapped in juicy acidity before a lengthy clean close. (TP) NEW ZEALAND OYSTER BAY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018, MARLBOROUGH ($13)
Clear medium-deep yellow. Intense, like it or leave it nose of lime, passionfruit and lanolin/petrol. Medium-bodied, tasting of lime, lemon, gooseberry and pineapple. Drink now. (RL)
RECOMMENDED AUSTRALIA LINDEMAN’S BIN 65 CHARDONNAY 2018, SOUTH-EASTERN AUSTRALIA ($9)
Since 1985, this yeoman has been many people’s introduction to Australian wine — or even wine in general. Medium-deep yellow, with a nose of pineapple and tropical fruits topped with a touch of oak. Light-bodied and light-flavoured, no doubt for the broadest possible appeal, it is easy to quaff, jam-packed with stone fruit and orange flavours, with a touch of lemony acidity. It was nice company for duck chowder, the oak in the wine complementing the smoky bacon in the chowder. Drink now. (RL) CHILE
TELMO RODRIGUEZ BASA BLANCO RUEDA 2017 ($17.27)
This blend of Verdejo (90%) and Viura (10%) is sourced from gravelly soils,
VILLARD SAUVIGNON BLANC EXPRESSION RESERVE 2015 ($15)
Pale yellow. Strong nose of lime and
gooseberry, more France than New Zealand. Light-bodied, high acidity, gooseberry and citrus fruit a bit thin. Drink now. (RL)* FRANCE WISH FOR STYLE SAUVIGNON BLANC NV, FRANCE ($11)
Pale silvery yellow. Faint nose of gooseberry, grapefruit, lemon and a hint of fresh oregano. Light-bodied with too-high acidity, thinly tasting of candy apple and marmalade. Drink immediately upon returning from the dépanneur. (RL) ITALY SCANSANO SCANTIUM VERMENTINO 2015, IGT TOSCANA ($17)
Medium-deep gold. Nose of bruised apple and cut grass, with a tinge of smoke and sulphur. Light-bodied, very dry and soft on the palate, hinting of lemons and limes but not very interesting. Drink up. (RL)* PORTUGAL MIRANDA BRANCO 2015, DO VINHO VERDE ($15)
Medium-deep gold. Fairly strong aromas of lime, pear drops and mint. On the palate, it is slightly pétillant and shows high acidity with lemon and lime flavours and some citrus peel bitterness on the finish. Drink now. (RL)*
$20.01 TO $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
FRANCE MERLIN MÂCON LA ROCHE VINEUSE 2016, BURGUNDY ($24.50)
This wine attests to Mâcon as a great destination for those seeking delicious Burgundy at an affordable price. Medium body with fresh acid and delicate notes of mushrooms, lemon and butter. A great match for wild mushroom risotto. (MB) ITALY
FRANCE LA BIANCARA ANGIOLINO MAULE MASIERI, VINO DA TAVOLA ($23.20)
Angiolino Maule, President of the Association Vinnatur, has been crafting natural wines since the birth of his estate in the late 1980s. Made from 90% Garganega and 10% Trebbiano, the grapes come from the volcanic soils of the hills of Sorio di Gambellara. Fresh and zesty yet with an expensive chalky texture with notes of lemon and red apple that are in harmony with a pleasant salty tang and bitterness. Dangerously easy to drink on its own and a great match with pesto pasta. (MB)
A pure, fruit-driven and unmasked expression of the variety invites with upfront citrus and tropical notes before a well-structured, creamy palate of citrus, apple and mineral hints through a fresh, clean finish. (TP) CEDAR CREEK PLATINUM SAUVIGNON BLANC BORDER VISTA 2018, OKANAGAN ($33.70)
Palest lime in colour. Grassy, green fig, grapefruit nose. Medium body, briskly dry with gooseberry and grapefruit flavours and a long lemony finish. (TA)
MAISON CHAMPY POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2016, BURGUNDY ($37.25)
Complex notes of vanilla, butter, hazelnut and mushroom are mingling well with the lemon, apricot and pineapple aromas. Full body and richness balanced by searing acidity. Long, lingering finish with pleasant salty tang. A bit tight right now and definitely benefits from decanting. A delicious match with gnocchi butter and sage served with a sprinkle of fresh Parmesan. (MB) DOMAINE LAROCHE CHABLIS PREMIER CRU LES MONTMAINS 2016, BURGUNDY ($40)
RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA TERRAZAS DE LOS ANDES RESERVA TORRONTES 2017, MENDOZA ($22)
Bright and fresh, lightly aromatic with citrus and herbs, a round mid-palate and lifted finish. Herbed chicken, roast pork and whitefish would all be good matches. (GB)
CANADA JOIEFARM UN-OAKED CHARDONNAY 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($25)
made, so buy as much as you can if you find it. A real testament of how brilliant Chardonnay can be in Niagara Peninsula. Full body with a rich mouthfeel balanced by brisk acid with lush notes of lemon completed by well-integrated notes of vanilla and a pleasing salinity on the finish. An impressive wine. Treat yourself and serve it with grilled lobster; tested and approved. (MB)
Piercing chalky and mineral notes on the nose are just as persistent on the palate. Great concentration with precise aromas of green apple, grapefruit, lime and lemon. Tight structure with brisk acidity and a long finish that carries a subtle and pleasant hazelnut touch. Tempting to drink now but will reward the drinker who has the patience to wait 5 to 9 years. Well done! (MB)
FRANCE DOMAINE CHIROULET TERRES BLANCHES BLANC 2017, CÔTES DE GASCOGNE ($21)
Quite fresh and juicy with bright citrus and stone fruit, slightly honeyed texture, well balanced, and a lingering, delicate finish. A blend of Gros Manseng and Sauvignon Blanc. (GB)
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA PEARL MORISSETTE MÉTIS BLANC VQA 2017, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($40)
Only 989 cases of this wine were
× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT WWW.QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/
RECOMMENDED FRANCE P ET M. JACQUESON LES CORDIÈRES 2015, BOUZERON, BURGUNDY ($55)
Right at your first smell and sip, you taste its place rather than a grape. Good concentration of flavours with tangy acid and bright aromas of lime and lemon with haunting mushroom notes. Vibrant with great tension and energy. If you have any doubts about the virtue of Aligoté, this wine will change your mind. Delicious with salmon gravlax. (MB) NOVEMBER 2019 29
BUYING GUIDE ROSÉ CHÂTEAU DE MANISSY TAVEL LE MOULIN NOTRE DAME 2018, PROVENCE, FRANCE ($16.90)
Deep salmon pink colour. Light minerally nose of wild strawberries. Medium- to full-bodied, dry, strawberry purée flavour with just a touch of sweetness in mid-palate and a thread of minerality. Great length with a warm alcoholic finish. (TA) GÉRARD BERTRAND CÔTE DES ROSES 2018, FRANCE ($18.95)
An unusual blend of Grenache, Vermentino and Viognier. Very pale straw in colour. Lightly floral, white pepper, minerally, peach pit nose. White peach flavour, full on the palate. (TA) CEDAR CREEK PLATINUM PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($18.99)
Palest pink with a bluish tint. Lightly floral, strawberry nose. Medium-bodied, dry, elegant, wild strawberry and orange flavours, lovely mouthfeel, clean and precise with a long, fresh finish. One of the best Canadian rosés I have tasted from this vintage. (TA) CULMINA R&D ROSÉ 2018, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($19)
Pale salmon colour. Minerally, lightly floral, wild strawberry bouquet. Medium-bodied, well-extracted redcurrant and watermelon flavours with just a hint of sweetness in mid-palate. (TA)
finish. Begs for food and likely has the versatility and structure to accompany a broad range of meat dishes. (GB)
RED
fruit. Medium- to full-bodied, richly extracted black plum and blackberry flavours with balancing acidity and well-integrated oak. (TA) FRANCE GÉRARD BERTRAND GRAND TERROIR TAUTAVEL GRENACHE/SYRAH/CARIGNAN 2016, CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON ($18.95)
$20 AND UNDER
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA HENRY OF PELHAM PINOT NOIR 2018, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($16.95)
Cherry and tea leaf nose. Medium-bodied. Candied raspberry flavour with a touch of tannin on the finish to give structure. Great value here. (TA) LAKEVIEW CELLARS SERENITY BACO NOIR 2017, ONTARIO ($16.95)
Lightly smoky, toasty, blackberry nose. Medium-bodied. Dry, smoked meat and plum sauce flavours with lively acidity. (TA)
Deep purple-black in colour. Cedary, spicy, licorice and blackberry nose. Medium- to full-bodied, ripe black fruit flavours with fresh acidity and ripe tannins. A well-structured wine. (TA)
ITALY SCANSANO CAPOCCIA DOC MAREMMA TOSCANA 2015 ($17)
Very deep garnet with purple tinge. Fairly strong nose of plums, raisins and cherries. Nice balance of fresh red berry fruit and acidity. Will last another year. (RL) SOUTH AFRICA
SPERLING VINEYARDS ORGANIC MARKET RED 2017, EAST KELOWNA ($20)
Produced from over 30-year-old Pinot Noir and around 50-year-old Marechal Foch vines grown on gravelly soils. Wild fermented and partially barrel fermented with some time in neutral barrel. Forward violet, red and dark berry notes before an approachable gentle herb and savoury edged palate. Arguably one of the best value biodynamic BC red wines. (TP)
WATERKLOOF CIRCLE OF LIFE RED 2015, STELLENBOSCH ($19.95)
Syrah 73%, 16% Merlot, 11% Petit Verdot. Deep purple-ruby colour. Cedary, spicy, plum bouquet with evident oak. Medium-bodied, dry, savoury-herbal, sweet blackberry flavour with lively acidity. (TA)
RECOMMENDED
CHILE CHÂTEAU DE GAUDOU EXCEPTION ROSÉ 2018, COTES DU LOT, FRANCE ($21)
Firm and structured with red fruit, stone fruit and herbal flavours, fresh with bright acidity and lightly tannic on the 30 NOVEMBER 2019
FRANCE WLLIAM FÈVRE ESPINO RESERVA ESPECIAL CARMENÈRE 2017, CENTRAL VALLEY ($16)
Opaque purple-black in colour. Hightoned, cedary, lightly floral nose of black
VIGNOBLES & COMPAGNIE PETIT TRACTEUR 2017, CÔTES DU RHÔNE ($16)
Simple but well made with supple tan-
nins and generous notes of raspberries and wild strawberries with well-integrated alcohol and balanced despite the soft acid. A good contender for an everyday wine. Serve slightly chilled. (MB) CHÂTEAU DU GRAND BERN 2016, BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR ($16.50)
Just like an old friend you are meeting again, the green touch associated to lesser ripe Bordeaux is somehow comforting. Medium body with fresh acid and notes of green bell pepper, bright plum, cocoa and vanilla. Chewy tannins a touch rustic with a rather abrupt finish. Simple but shows typicity at a price that is hard to argue with. (MB) CAZES MARIE-GABRIELLE 2018, CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON ($18.65)
50% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre. Full body with lots of character and abundant notes of black olives, black plum, ripe raspberries and black pepper. Round and ripe tannins with soft acidity and a medium finish. A crowd pleaser made for meat stew or hamburgers. (MB) ITALY SONOVINO VINO ROSSO ($7.55)
If someone is seeking to find an honest wine below $10 capable of offering some character of the country it is from, this wine will do it. Simple and straightforward, yes, but still pleasing. Fresh acid with chewy tannins and bright notes of sour cherries and a hint of tomato and dried herbs. A more than acceptable wine to buy if you are trying to entertain a big crowd and cannot spend a fortune. Ideal for Spaghetti alla Bolognese. (MB) CORSI MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO DOC 2014 ($15)
Medium-deep garnet. Nose of plums and sweet raisin pie. Medium body with tannins still quite high, tasting of cherries and chokecherries. At its best now. (RL)* SAN PIETRO CHIANTI CLASSICO DOC 2012 ($20)
Medium-deep browning garnet. Medium-intensity nose of sour cherries with vanilla oak. Tastes of ripe red berries, especially strawberries, with tannins and acidity still in surprisingly good balance
with the fruit, but that will not last long. Drink yesterday. (RL)*
$20.01 TO $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA
MISSION HILL MERLOT RESERVE 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($29.95)
Dense purple colour. Cedary, spicy, blueberry nose with evident oak. Medium- to full-bodied, fruity and juicy blueberry and blackberry flavours. Good mouthfeel and well balanced, finishing on a creamy vanilla note and supple tannins. (TA)
MISSION HILL CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($23.95)
HUFF ESTATES MERLOT SOUTH BAY VINEYARDS 2017, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($30)
HESTER CREEK SYRAH VIOGNIER 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($25.99)
LAUGHING STOCK VINEYARDS PINOT NOIR 2017, NARAMATA BENCH ($34.99)
Dense purple in colour. Cedary, blackcurrant nose with oak spice. Medium- to full-bodied, dry, well-extracted sweet plum and blackcurrant flavours with well-integrated oak. (TA)
A blend of 84% Syrah with 16% Viognier invites with vibrant blue and black fruit, some peppery notes and meaty hints before a plush palate with generous mouthfeel, dark cherry, spice and mineral hints wrapped in well integrated, approachable tannins. (TP) MISSION HILL RESERVE PINOT NOIR 2017 ($27.99)
Sourced from East Kelowna and Naramata, from a challenging yet ultimately rewarding vintage. Floral and red berries up front with a touch of earthiness lead to inviting cherry and raspberry flavours above a pleasing savoury edge, supported by supple tannins and spice notes through the lengthy finish. (TP)
Deep purple-ruby in colour. Lightly cedary, blueberry pie bouquet. Medium-bodied, dry, blueberry and raspberry flavours with lively acidity and a floral note, ending on a note of pencil lead. (TA)
From one of the more challenging in recent vintages, denoted by a late start and cool spring. Lifted red berries with hints of sage lead to a fruit-driven palate of bright cherry with a slightly savoury edge, firm tannins and a lengthy close. (TP) HUFF ESTATES CABERNET FRANC 2017, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($35)
Deep purple-ruby colour. Cedary, plum and pencil lead nose with a light floral note. Medium-bodied, dry, fruity plum flavour, lovely mouthfeel. Beautifully balanced. (TA) FRANCE FABIEN JOUVES HAUTE CÔT(E) DE FRUIT MALBEC 2018, CAHORS ($21.35)
LAUGHING STOCK BLIND TRUST 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($28.99)
Forward notes of black and blue fruit with toasty notes. Mainly Merlot and Malbec yield a ripe and plush palate of mulberry, cassis and mocha notes with well-managed oak and approachable tannins through a solid close. (TP)
Slightly reductive when first opened. Bright and fruit-driven with concentrated notes of violet and fresh red plum with a hint of white pepper. Chewy yet polished tannins with fresh acid and well-integrated 13% ABV and a medium finish. Very well made. Grilled red meat’s best friend. (MB)
INTERSECTION ESTATE WINERY ALLUVIA MERLOT 2015, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($29)
FABIEN JOUVES HAUT CÔT(E) DE FRUIT MALBEC 2016, CAHORS ($24)
Vibrant red and black fruit with mineral hints, an intense fruit-driven entry but with elegance and excellent focus. A plush and broad mouthfeel defined by spicy pepper notes wrapped in well-integrated oak, anise, vanilla and cedar hints, supported by firm but approachable silky tannins before lingering spice and oak interplaying through the close. (TP)
Vibrant, minerally, earthy and fresh with bright acidity, tart, crunchy red and black fruit. Spicy and mouth-wateringly juicy. Delicious. Serve slightly chilled. (GB) CHÂTEAU VIGNELAURE CÔTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCE AOC 2011 ($26)
Medium-deep garnet. Nose of cherry cough syrup (in a good way), cassis and
NOVEMBER 2019 31
BUYING GUIDE oak. Predominantly from Cabernet Sauvignon. Its flavour could be mistaken for a good Bordeaux. Medium-bodied with noticeable tannins, tasting of black cherries and plums. Will not get better from here. Drink now. (RL)* CHÂTEAU GARRAUD LALANDE DE POMEROL 2015, BORDEAUX ($32.10)
Already pleasing despite its youth, with noticeable notes of leather and tobacco showing some development. The fruit is fresh and opulent with a nice generosity of plum, graphite and cacao. Medium to full body with ripe chalky yet fine tannins and fresh acid. High alcohol balanced by generosity of fruit. Nice typicity and offering great value. (MB) SPAIN
PALACIOS REMONDO LA MONTESA RIOJA CRIANZA 2014, RIOJA ($25.26)
Organically farmed blend of Garnacha, Tempranillo and Mazuelo from high altitude vines (c. 600 metres), these vines grow at some of the highest points in Rioja. Upfront ripe cherry and raspberry before a fresh and luscious well-balanced palate with balanced acidity and enduring spice and vanilla notes. (TP)
RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA TERRAZAS DE LOS ANDES RESERVA MALBEC 2017, MENDOZA ($25)
Firm with dark fruit, coffee, vanilla and spice, grippy tannins and ripe fruit. A bold style done well, but perhaps a touch more finesse would enhance the wine’s balance. (GB) 32 NOVEMBER 2019
FRANCE DOMAINE LA BOUYSSE CUVÉE MAZERAC 2015, AOC CORBIÈRES BOUTENAC ($30)
Siblings Martine Pages and Christophe Molinier are fourth generation vignerons overseeing an estate (biodynamic since 2013) that dates back some 115 years. Concrete fermented, with the Carignan whole-bunch pressed, aged 12 months in French oak. Aromas of dried fruit with earthy undertones before a mouth-filling palate supported by firm tannins. (TP)
ITALY LA MASSA TOSCANA IGT 2016, TUSCANY ($28.85)
When a wine from Tuscany is modern yet charming and irresistible. Rich and appealing with abundant notes of cherries, cinnamon, vanilla and a hint of graphite, basil and tomato that lifts the wine. Concentrated with grippy tannins, fresh acid and 13.5% well supported by generosity of fruit. Nice management of wood. Well done. (MB) PORTUGAL
DOMAINE LA SIRANIÈRE AOC MINERVOIS LA LIVINIÈRE 2014 ($30)
A blend of mainly Syrah (78%) with Grenache (15%) and Carignan (7%) from a boutique producer, only four hectacres, grown on south facing slopes in the foothills of Siran in Minervois. Grenache and Syrah with old vines Carignan were hand harvested and cold fermented in stainless steel, 15 months in French oak. Vibrant, inviting notes of red and black fruit with a plush and spicy palate wrapped in approachable and well-integrated tannins, before a lengthy velvet close. (TP) DOMAINE FLORENCE ALQUIER RIEUTORD AOC FAUGÈRES 2017 ($35)
Forward red berry notes with floral and slate hints followed by a well-balanced palate, generous mouthfeel with seamless tannins above definite schist through the lengthy finish. (TP) DOMAINE MIRABEL LES ÉCLATS AOC PIC SAINT LOUP 2017 ($35)
Forward black fruit with spicy hints precede a plush, mouth-filling palate of blackberry, mulberry, cassis and anise, with well-integrated tannins and a generous, lingering close. (TP)
MARITAVORA DOURO CLASSIC 2014, DOURO VALLEY ($27)
Meaty, floral and brooding with firm, but elegant tannins, dark fruit, savoury and fresh with a pleasant juiciness on the drying finish. A blend of predominantly Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Nacional from 20- to 50-yearold vines. (GB)
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA HESTER CREEK THE JUDGE 2016, GOLDEN MILE BENCH ($49.95)
From some of the oldest vinifera plantings in the valley, this blend of Merlot (37%), Cabernet Sauvignon (34%) and Cabernet Franc (26%) with a splash of Malbec and Petit Verdot spends two years in mainly French oak. Lifted notes of black and red berries with vanilla precede a plush palate of mulberry, black cherry and anise with approachable tannins through a liquorice-toned close. (TP)
RECOMMENDED SPAIN NUMANTHIA TERMES 2015, TORO ($44)
Rich, powerful and concentrated with loads of dark fruit, earth, spice, licorice and mineral, slightly smoky, firmly tannic and bold with a long, big finish. (GB) NEW ZEALAND CLOUDY BAY PINOT NOIR 2015, MARLBOROUGH ($62)
Firm with an abundance of fruit, spice, earth and a tannic core. A well-made wine with all the components, but comes across as a little formulaic and lacking in soul. More depth and finesse for this price is warranted. (GB)
BEFORE & AFTER DINNER LUSTAU EAST INDIA SOLERA RESERVA SHERRY, SPAIN ($28.76)
Aromas of dried fruits, citrus and smoky hints lead to a seductive and mouth-filling viscose palate, layers of raisin, nutty notes and zesty notes, layered in perfect harmony, and supported by balanced acidity. When served slightly chilled, it is an ideal companion for Manchego or blue cheeses. (TP) FORTY CREEK VICTORY LIMITED EDITION 2019, LOT 013, BOTTLE NUMBER 04925, CANADA ($80)
A big, rich, bold whisky. Polished and smooth, with aromas suggesting baking spice, toffee, nougat/marzipan/almond/ vanilla with just a dollop of something maple syrup, maybe? Viscous and warm in the mouth, with a touch of cayenne pepper spice along with caramel/sultana nuances as well as toasted/buttered hazelnut and a dash of marmalade. The pepperiness persist on the long, clean finish. (TS) THE MACALLAN 12 YEARS OLD DOUBLE CASK, SCOTLAND ($100)
Without putting too fine a point on it, this expression of The Macallan is absolutely gorgeous. Aged in a combination of olo-
rosso-seasoned American and European casks, it reveals a sublime nose that oozes malted grain, buckwheat honey and mild ginger, with floral/citrus undertones. Silky and superbly balanced, the flavours lean towards sweet malted barley, mild vanilla, butterscotch, caramel and a hint of citrus. Nice complexity on the (wonderfully) persistent finish. (TS)
BEER & CIDER ALARMIST BREWING LE JUS, CHICAGO, UNITED STATES ($15/4-PACK 16 OZ)
This beer is all about the haze, pouring a juicy fluorescent orange with a mousseand latte-like foam. The sip starts off with papaya and guava moving to pineapple and a seedy passion fruit centre. A low but persistent orange-rind bitterness balances the sip. This hazy brew is tough to find — you can only buy it at some wine and beer stores in Illinois, but it is worth the hunt as it won gold at the 2018 Great American Beer Festival for Hazy, Juicy IPAs. (TL) RAINHARD FOUR ON THE FLOOR PILSNER, ONTARIO ($3/355 ML)
Rainhard’s Pilsner has been a work in progress for years, and the current rebrand signals an arrival at a destination. It pours hazy gold with a nose of red apple and sweet, dried meadow grasses. It has a peppery mid-palate and quite a long, gentle bitter finish. The balance leans bitter here, but for fans of the Czech style, this is a winner. (JSJ) SAWDUST CITY GOLDEN BEACH, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)
Sawdust’s most popular core beer features a body lightened by some wheat. Light acidity works in concert with the grapefruit, pineapple and mango from the dry hops, creating a light, tart pale ale with mild bitterness. Exactly the thing for a hot summer’s day. (JSJ) BENCH BREWING COMPANY HENRY ON CHERRIES, ONTARIO ($7.95/500 ML)
This beer is cherry dominant even in appearance. It pours a hazy garnet, and the sip, rather than continuing the delicate aroma of cherry juice, rolls right through
× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT WWW.QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/
to the cinnamate of the pit. This happens at every sip, and the tartness of the cherries is only kept in check by the structure provided by the oak foeders in fermentation. At 7.1%, deceptively light. (JSJ) SAWDUST CITY OTHER PEOPLE’S WORDS, ONTARIO ($10)
Part of the Winewood series, Other People’s Words is a blend of a two-year-old saison with a younger version of the same beer and a lashings of cranberry juice. The effect is tartly sweet and complex with the textural width that two years of oak impart. This is a promising sign that the Winewood series continues to develop in both concept and quality. (JSJ) MOUNT ST BERNARD TYNT MEADOW ENGLISH TRAPPIST ALE, ENGLAND ($5/330 ML)
England’s only Trappist brewery produces a single product and happily represents English tradition rather than that of their Belgian brothers. Tynt Meadow might as well be referred to generically as a strong dark ale with notes of red licorice, coffee, treacle, molasses and dried strawberry ahead of a small amount of drying astringency at the back of the palate. Sort of a Belgian Dubbel seen through a glass, darkly. (JSJ) BRASSERIE DE LA SENNE ZINNEBIR, BELGIUM ($5/330 ML)
De La Senne are part of the new wave of breweries in Brussels, taking their name from the River Valley. Zinnebir is a blonde ale with a nose of black pepper and drying hay that leans into grassy on the sip. A small amount of fruity plum and some light spice make up the mid-palate before a harmonious finish that brings the yeast phenolics and hop bitterness together. (JSJ) BRASSERIE DE LA SENNE CRIANZA III, BELGIUM ($5/330ML)
Crianza is De La Senne’s take on a Flanders red ale, featuring ripe red fruit and ribes on the nose with tempered acidity on the palate that balances the width of the oaked body. While the complexity is less than some classic examples of the style (the dried fruit never quite gives way to Balsamic depth), the carbonation lifts it into bright, exuberant cherry and damson plum candy territory. (JSJ) NOVEMBER 2019 33
AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER
ALL DAY CHARDONNAY FIVE YEARS AGO, I WROTE IN QUENCH: “I4C IS THE BEST THING THAT’S HAPPENED TO THE CANADIAN WINE INDUSTRY SINCE THE INTRODUCTION OF THE VQA APPELLATION SYSTEM IN 1988. The cryptic name is a punning acronym
for the International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration.” This year’s event reaffirmed in spades this assertion and I4C’s beneficial impact on the global wine scene. The three-day extravaganza in July, feting the world’s most popular grape, is held in Niagara-on-the-Lake. It has become the must-attend event for not only the local wine community but also wineries around the world, which eagerly await an invitation to participate. The ninth annual event featured wines from California, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, Argentina, Chile, France and Italy as well as wines from a healthy contingent of 50 wineries from across Ontario and British Columbia. To understand the significance of I4C, you have to know that Chardonnay is the fifth most widely planted grape variety on the planet, accounting for over 210,000 hectares of vines across 51 countries. The centrepiece of this Chardonnay-fest was The School of Cool — a series of three seminars on winegrowing and winemaking. These seminars featured panel discussions in which vintners from around the world exchanged ideas with local winemakers. The morning started with a keynote address by Master of Wine Julia Harding. Harding was Jancis Robinson’s wingwoman for Robinson’s website and seminal reference book, The Oxford Book of Wine. Harding’s theme was “What cool climate means to me.” She distilled her thesis down to three words: Latitude, Altitude and Attitude. She spoke of climates warmer than Ontario’s, but these were mitigated by the coastal effect and inland fresh water. And she explained that wines produced using Chardonnay grown at high elevations in hot regions (for example, in Argentina) can be considered cool climate wines. Harding informed us that half the vines planted in English vineyards are Chardonnay, mainly used for sparkling wines. She also said that climate change is more of a threat than a benefit to English wine. Perhaps the event’s most informative panel session was “Everything you wanted to know about Lees but were afraid to ask.” The audience learned through this technical discussion that long lees ageing can produce honeyed notes and buttery flavours (those brioche and toasty aromas you detect in champagne), and that lees aging decreases white wine’s susceptibility to brown. Those egg-shaped, concrete or ceramic fermenters that are now all the rage with winemakers promote the movement of lees and obviate the need for bâtonage (stirring lees to keep the yeast alive) and pumping over. 34 NOVEMBER 2019
J.L. Groux, winemaker at Stratus, made the case for bottling white wine unfiltered and still on its lees even though the consumer gets a hazy product. “(You get) increased complexity and mouthfeel, adding longevity to the wine and protecting it from oxidation.” Afterwards we tasted eight wines and were quizzed on how long each one had been kept on its lees. The second session was called, “It’s not just the heat; it’s the volatility: Weather volatility and the impact on Chardonnay production.” Jim Willwerth, Senior Scientist in Viticulture at CCOVI, led the discussion with, “We (in Ontario) are farming the edge. […] Chardonnay is the classic cool climate variety, more versatile than other cultivars.” Late ripening, he explained, maximized the terroir effect. And when it comes to climate change, “wine grapes are the canary in the coal mine.” The final session addressed “The Changing Faces of Chardonnay — how are consumers’ tastes and perceptions changing around cool climate Chardonnay styles?” The good news is that consumers appear to be embracing the cool climate model as opposed to the big, buttery, oak-driven style of warmer regions like California and Australia. And which of the 100-odd Chardonnays I tasted during the day was my favourite? It came from South Africa — Paul Cluver Estate Chardonnay 2017. I must get some in my cellar. × ILLUSTRATION: ROBB MIRSKY, WWW.ROBBMIRSKY.COM
WINES FOR SHARING Discover exceptional Okanagan wines
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HESTER CREEK IN FOLDER Join the Hester Creek Wine Club. Delivered direct to your door from the sunny Okanagan. Enjoy exceptional wines, private tastings, exclusive events, membership loyalty rewards and more! www.HesterCreek.com/Bench-Club 93 PTS PLATINUM National Wine Awards of Canada, 2019
90 PTS Rick VanSickle, winesinniagara.com
91 PTS Rick VanSickle, winesinniagara.com
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NATIVE LAND OF THE Cab to MONASTRELL 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley
put on your table, period. By keeping our roots, we follow our traditions. We have commited ourselves to produce top-quality wines, developing our genuine Monastrell grape variety.
HECULA IN FOLDER “ �
Classic Cabernet Sauvignon. Currant, blackberry, cigar box with touches of chocolate, cedar and pencil lead. Full flavored & just so damn good. I should raise the price. - Charles Smith