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//features 19// VERGER
BY CRYSTAL LUXMORE An apple does make the difference in Canada’s craft cider scene.
22// JUICY
BY MICHAEL PINKUS Bonarda, misunderstood grape or hidden gem of the wine world?
19
24// LIVING A DREAM BY RICK VANSICKLE Syrah’s uphill battle.
26// BIG PRICE TAG BY GILLES BOIS
Why is Champagne always so much more expensive than other sparkling wine?
28// A BRAVE NEW
WORLD
BY RON LITEPLO Can we really match food with wine using their chemical structures?
32// TSUNAMI BY TOD STEWART
There’s a new white wave building in Italy ... and it’s headed this way.
37// TINY BUBBLES BY MERLE ROSENSTEIN
Artisanal soda makers are breaking new ground.
40// SPREAD THICK
37
BY ROSEMARY MANTINI Dressing up your bread.
42// MUCH SOUL BY GURVINDER BHATIA
Mapping the resurgence of soul food.
44// IT’S A SECRET BY DUNCAN HOLMES
Trade secrets from a seasoned chef to you.
40 quench.me
\\ 3
//à la carte 7// CONTRIBUTORS 8// FROM THE EDITOR 11// CONVERSATIONS Letters to the editor.
13// FEED
TOM DE LARZAC
14// UMAMI JOANNE WILL
//notes
17// LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO
18// BON VIVANT PETER ROCKWELL
49// MATTER OF TASTE
52// THE FOOD NOTES
An appetizing selection of food-friendly faves.
SHEILA SWERLING-PURITT
50// DAVINE
GURVINDER BHATIA
53// BOUQUET GARNI NANCY JOHNSON
57// MUST TRY
JONATHAN SMITHE
66// FINAL WORD TONY ASPLER
57
56// THE MAV NOTES 58// THE BUYING GUIDE
Top wines from around the world, scored.
ARGENTINA // P. 58 AUSTRALIA // P. 59 AUSTRIA // P. 59 BRAZIL // P. 59 CANADA // P. 59-61 CHILE // P. 61 FRANCE // P. 61-62 GERMANY // P. 63 GREECE // P. 63 HUNGARY // P. 63 ITALY // P. 63 LUXEMBOURG // P. 63 NEW ZEALAND // P. 63-64
18 4 // April 2014
PORTUGAL // P. 64 SOUTH AFRICA // P. 64 SPAIN // P. 64-65 UNITED STATES // P. 65 BEER AND CIDER // P. 65 SPIRITS // P. 65
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59
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contributors\\
Newly retired from the legal profession, Ron Liteplo is now able to focus on the really important things in life: eating and drinking. He is a French wineaholic, but has a soft spot for wines from strange and obscure grapes and places.
From the farmer’s field to the dining table, Joanne Will writes about the people and issues connected to the journey of food. In addition to Quench, she writes a weekly column for The Globe and Mail.
COME SOCIALIZE WITH QUENCH FOLLOW US @QUENCHBYTIDINGS AND
Harry Hertscheg is executive director of the Vancouver International Wine Festival. Harry writes reviews, judges in competitions, presents seminars, teaches classes and is a Wine DJ for fundraisers. Follow @HHonwine on Twitter.
Merle Rosenstein’s lifelong quest to understand the people and personalities in the drinks business takes her to far away places to sample wine, craft beer, coffee and spirits. Check out her blog peoplebehindwine.wordpress.com or @merlerosenstein.
LIKE US ON FACEBOOK FB.QUENCH.ME SEARCH OUR EXTENSIVE RECIPE, COCKTAIL AND TASTING NOTE DATABASE ON
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//from the editor
\\
APRIL 2014 ISSUE # 318
10 ANNUAL NEXT BIG THING ISSUE TH
WHENEVER WE START to delve into the subject of Next Big Thing, our staff always has to take a step back. This is a difficult issue to put together. What if we make a call and it fizzles out in a matter of weeks? I’m always asked, “aren’t trends difficult to pinpoint?” My answer is an overwhelming … We are constantly researching this issue. More then any other, we spend months accumulating notes and ideas that might translate into an ongoing trend. And then once a year, we sit down and hash it all out. The energy expended during that conversation could power a small village. Yet we survive every year unscathed and move onto the next big thing. This year artisanal sodas, craft ciders, soul food and the grapes Bonarda and Syrah reached the highest pitch. All deserve to the covetted title. But then I received an email from a writer that piqued my interest. “Have you heard of molecular sommellerie?” Go on. Those six words hit a stop-the-presses twitch I sometimes have. We’ve long talked about molecular gastronomy — being one of the first to highlight chefs like Homaro Cantu from Chicago’s Moto. When Ron Liteplo told me about Francois Chartier’s new book, I was truly intrigued. I really thought food and wine matching was done. We killed the myths of white with fish and red with steak. We removed this notion that matching had a set group of rules. We journeyed down that rabbit hole and came back out the other end. As you’ll see in our short introduction to this idea — found on page 28 — take nothing for granted. You can always find a new way of putting two great things together. By the way, the answer is an overwhelming yes. And we’ll do again and again.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Aldo Parise editor@quench.me ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Rosemary Mantini rmantini@quench.me CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart CONTRIBUTING FOOD EDITOR
Nancy Johnson COLUMNISTS
Tony Aspler, Peter Rockwell, Tom de Larzac, Joanne Will, Sheila Swerling-Puritt, Christine Sismondo CONTRIBUTORS
Sean Wood, Harry Hertscheg, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Rick VanSickle, Merle Rosenstein, Michael Pinkus, Ron Liteplo, Duncan Holmes, Crystal Luxmore TASTERS
Tony Aspler, Rick VanSickle, Evan Saviolidis, Gilles Bois, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Jonathan Smithe, Ron Liteplo and Gurvinder Bhatia COPY DESK
Lisa Hoekstra, Lee Springer, Kathy Sinclair CREATIVE BY PARIS ASSOCIATES ART DIRECTION
Aldo Parise PRODUCTION
ww+Labs, cmyk design, studio karibü ILLUSTRATIONS & PHOTOGRAPHY
Matt Daley, Francesco Gallé, Push/Stop Studio, august photography, Westen Photo Studio COVER DESIGN
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AUDITED BY
8 // April 2014
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conversations\\
KYLIX MEDIA PUBLISHER
Pierre Chanzonkov EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Aldo Parise CFO
Lucy Rodrigues CIRCULATION
circ@quench.me ACCOUNTS
The first writer I look for when I receive your magazine is Nancy Johnson. Not only is she a terrific writer, but her stories are entertaining and invariably hit a personal note. Being an animal lover, I enjoyed her last commentary regarding her new dog so much that I read it twice. Her suggested recipes are also ones I look forward to reading and trying.
Marilyn Barter accounts@quench.me
Micheline Manthorp, Ottawa
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Welcome Quench. I was pleasantly surprised when I received my Feb/March issue. A name befitting the subject.
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www.quench.me living.quench.me twitter.com/quenchbytidings
KYLIX MEDIA, 5165 Sherbrooke St. West, Suite 500, Montreal, Quebec, H4A 1T6, Tel: 514.481.6606, Fax: 514.481.9699. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: Canada: $36 per year, $58 per 2 years; USA: $55 per year; Other: $75 per year. Single Copies: $5.95. Quench, Food and Drink Magazine, a registered trademark of Kylix Media, is published 8 times a year: (February/March, April, May/June, July/August, September, October, November, December/January). Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. © 2013 Kylix Media Inc. Printed in Canada. ISSN-0228-6157. Publications Mail Registration No. 40063855. Member of the Canadian Federation of Independent Business.
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... It was the Marca Negra. It went down so smoothly with a little bit of an alcohol bite at the end. It was the tropical fruit notes that really got me though. Delicious...
Wayne Garrett, email
I’ve always wondered if going to a wine auction was worth it. I guess it might be nice to just see one in action. Maybe get a bid in here and there. Never know, I might get a Château Lafitte for $50. Lara White, email
I do enjoy Gurvinder Bhatia’s voice. he’s always a fun read. Gordon Hunt, Winnipeg
I was in Mexico City for business early last year and I decided to find the closest Mezcaleria. I found a several places that offered a wide range of Tequilas and Mezcal, so I was truly spoiled. My partner and I went through a dozen iterations but one really stood out. It was the Marca Negra. It went down so smoothly with a little bit of an alcohol bite at the end. It was the tropical fruit notes that really got me though. Delicious. Henry Knowles, email
Material chosen for publication may be edited for clarity and fit. Please email your comments and questions to editor@quench.me.
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a fishy thought\\
FEED
BY TOM DE LARZAC
THE LEAD-UP TO THE EASTER HOLIDAY reminds me that some things are typically worth waiting for. When I was growing up, we weren’t allowed to have any meat on the weekend leading up to Easter. For someone who considers bacon part of any essential meal, this was obviously a hard thing to accept. But as the years passed, I realized that those few days made the meat taste just a little bit better when the holiday craze was over. This tradition made me aware that there are other great options that aren’t normally top-of-mind for me when I start menu planning. The main ingredient, which typically takes the place of the forbidden animal, is fish. Those swimmers are something we all know to be good for us. We know we should eat more. But for some reason a lot of us are scared off by the idea of cooking fish, when in reality, it’s is very simple to prepare, cooks quickly and packs a lot of flavour. Every supermarket has deboned fillets, but for those who are more comfortable and feel a little braver, there is a much larger selection of whole fish available from your local fishmonger. If your fishmonger is in a good mood, they will probably even fillet it for you — ask them nicely, or call ahead. Remember, if the eyes are still clear and not opaque, the fish is fresh. If the fish smells like water and not overly fishy, again it’s fresh. For me, I prefer a quick pan-fry of a filet, but I have cooked fish this way more times than I can remember. The oven is a great alternative since the heat is less direct and much more forgiving. For those new to preparing fish at home, the oven may prevent overcooking. Try this: stuff the whole fish, or cover the filets with aluminium foil and place in the oven, cooking for 20 to 25 minutes at 375°F. This will make it moist and tender. Open your palate to a great alternative for the everyday meal.
LEMON AND DILL STUFFED WHOLE TROUT 1 1 1 1
1/2
fennel bulb (shaved thinly) lemon (sliced thinly) tbsp butter whole trout (1 1/2 to 2 lbs, descaled and gutted) bunch of dill
1. Preheat oven to 375°F. 2. Toss shaved fennel with salt. Scatter the fennel and half the
lemon slices on a baking sheet that will fit the fish, leaving room for the fish in the middle of the pan. 3. Thinly spread the butter on the top of the fish (skin will be facing up in the pan). Season the fish with salt and pepper, both on the inside and the outside. Stuff the cavity of the fish with the dill and half the lemon slices. 4. Place the fish on the pan and place in the middle of the oven for 20 to 25 minutes. 5. Remove fish when fennel begins browning and fish is fully cooked through (fish begins to flake when pricked with a fork). …… Serve whole family-style, or portion individually. Open a bottle of Viognier from the Old World.
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consider the fork\\
DURING A RECENT POKE around 200 years of scientific discoveries in the basement of Britain’s Royal Institution, I came across an exhibit of the first vacuum flask — the precursor of our modern Thermos. Until then, I hadn’t imagined a time without it, nor how this and other kitchen technology has changed the way we live. Histories of technology don’t typically cover food, and when they do, they’re often related to agricultural practices. Bee Wilson’s latest book, Consider the Fork: A History of How We Cook and Eat, is the antidote, outlining in meticulous detail how kitchen gadgetry and technology have impacted our social, economic and physical well-being. Wilson, an award-winning UK food writer, blends history, anthropology and science to reveal how our culinary tools and tricks came to be, and how their influence has shaped modern food culture. “The equipment of the kitchen can seem unimportant compared to the history of food itself,” writes Wilson; however, we can “change the texture, the taste, the nutritional content and the cultural associations of ingredients simply by using different tools and techniques to prepare them.” One of the stark examples of the impact of culinary technology covered in the book is that before the adoption of cooking pots, skeletal evidence suggests our ancestors could not survive into adulthood without teeth. Those who couldn’t chew starved. After pottery dishes came to be used to make soups, porridge and other foods that don’t require chewing, there are adult skeletons without a single tooth.
14 // April 2014
UMAMI
BY JOANNE WILL
Before the 16th and 17th century, when British kitchens adopted enclosed brick chimneys and cast-iron fire grates, open hearths were a fire hazard to women in billowing skirts and trailing sleeves. Until then, professional chefs in wealthy households were almost always men, who cooked in their underwear (or the nude) due to the searing heat. After discovering ways to tame the heat source, women could cook without risk of setting fire to themselves. The technology of the kitchen is still, in many countries, a matter of life and death. In the developing world, according to the World Health Organization, smoke from indoor cooking fires continues to kill 1.5 million people each year. In addition, Wilson also points out that the obesity crisis is not only dictated by what we eat, but the degree to which our food has been processed, a downside of technology. For every kitchen aid, such as the mortar and pestle, that has endured, countless others have vanished. Many of our cupboards are graveyards of fad gadgets. Some, such as garlic peelers and avocado slicers, create more problems than they solve. In many cases, the discovery of one culinary technology has necessitated another. The can was invented in 1812, but it was another 50 years before a can opener was devised. Freezers came first and later, ice cube trays. And, as with the vacuum flask — discovered in 1892 by Royal Institution scientist James Dewar to keep frozen liquids from evaporating while he studied cryogenics — sometimes the culinary application follows the original discovery. Stainless steel, devised in 1913 as a way to improve gun barrels, has vastly improved our cutlery.
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LAZY MIXOLOGIST
get sacked\\
ALTHOUGH IT’S ONE of the world’s oldest and most enduring wines, sherry flies pretty much under the radar. When people bother to think of it at all, associations lean towards the negative — cheap and cheerful, sickly sweet and/or suitable only for die-hard fans of Fawlty Towers. Until now. All signs point to sherry being the wine to watch, especially in the cocktail world, where it’s being used as an accent and, increasingly, as a base for drinks. “It’s a really interesting and versatile cocktail ingredient, but I also find that it’s a jealous mistress,” says Kyle Burch, head bartender at Toronto’s Cava. “When it’s used as the base flavour, it shines incredibly well. But if something else has a louder voice, the sherry tries to muscle its way in.” Burch has two sherry cocktails on his menu: Tilting at Windmills, an Old Fashioned-esque libation made with sweet Pedro Jimenez and brandy and the Czar of San Lúcar, a Champagne cocktail with dry Amontillado, based on the proportions of the classic French 75. Burch says that the Czar of San Lúcar has had phenomenal feedback since he began serving it six months ago, despite the fact that sherry lends a pronounced flavour to the drink, something that few people think they want. Some of this is the result of there being so many different varietals of sherry — people are unsure of how to wade in. Thankfully, we have experts like Burch and Simon Ogden of Victoria, BC’s Veneto Tapa Lounge to give us a brief primer. Explains Ogden: “Sherry is a white grape distillate fortified with brandy, which means that all sherries start out dry and any sweetness is added later, usually with grape juice. From lightest to sweetest and darkest, we have the categories of Fino; Manzanilla (reminiscent of chamomile tea); Amontillado; Oloroso (scented); Palo Cortado and Jerez Dulce (often referred to as cream sherry).”
+ Visit quench.me/search-mixed/ for more drink recipes
BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO
Since there is such a wide range of flavour betwixt all of the sherries, their application in cocktails is wildly different from one to the next and there is no one, sure-fire formula for the effective use of sherry. Bartenders recommend playing around with lighter sherries and gin for bouncy summer cocktails and reserving the darker sherries for balancing brown liquor drinks. Chris McDonald, sherry evangelist and Cava’s co-owner and chef, says learning about sherry and coming around to appreciate it — on its own or in cocktails — takes a little extra effort. “Sherry’s not necessarily an easy-pleasing baby flavour,” says McDonald. “And like all fine things, it takes education to enjoy them, whether it’s opera or anchovies or sherry. It takes some exposure before you get to a point where you say, ‘Hey, I like this better than Baby Duck.’” But, he concludes, “it’s well worth the effort.”
KYLE BURCH’S CZAR OF SAN LÚCAR 1
oz Amontillado sherry oz Calvados oz fresh lemon juice oz black pepper and nutmeg syrup 5 oz Cava Stir sherry, Calvados, lemon and syrup* in a mixing glass with ice. Strain into Collins glass with cracked fresh ice. Top with Cava and add nutmeg and black pepper. …… To make syrup, make a “tea” with a tablespoon of ground nutmeg and a small handful of whole black peppercorns in 2 cups of water. Let set for 2 hours, then reheat with 2 cups sugar.
1/2 1/2 1/2
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I see a lot of new wines bragging that they’re “low-calorie.” Isn’t all wine low-calorie? I like to stay healthy as much as the next guy (well, sort of ), but if I spent my days worrying about getting fat every time I had a glass of wine, I wouldn’t have time for much else. As you’ve noticed, that hasn’t stopped both major and minor wine companies from offering up laid-back vino for the calorie-conscious consumer. Hey, it’s worked for beer. Playing to every middle-aged male’s fear of the dreaded “beer belly,” lighter brews have become the trade’s trendsetters. When it comes to the calorie count, a 355-millilitre can of Coors Light weighs in at 102, while your average mainstream lager will fill you with around 140. That’s a pretty impressive difference unless you pound back half a dozen. (Ale fans have to live with the fact that the malty goodness of their favourite brew can start their calorie total at well over 160 per serving). Hard liquor runs around 100 calories per 1.5-ounce shot. It’s the mix that does the dirty work, so if you can learn to sip your favourite spirit over ice, you’ll look more impressive in your bathing suit. Thing is, an average five-ounce glass of white or red wine has only 150 calories. Some less, some a bit more; it all depends on the alcohol content, because that’s where the trouble hides. At around 13.5 percent, a full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon would be at the top end, while a lighter Pinot Grigio at 12.5 percent could weigh in at less than 120 calories. A glass of Skinnygirl — the most visible “diet wine” — has just 100 calories. And while it’s a decent drop, the savings to your hips means less complexity on your lips. For the sake of 50 calories, I’m happy to take one more walk around the block.
18 // April 2014
BON VIVANT
BY PETER ROCKWELL
What is Noble Rot? While wine marketers might scratch their collective heads as to why winemakers would give what creates liquid gold a nickname that sounds like liquid death, it’s actually quite an accurate description. It’s all thanks to Botrytis cinerea, a fungus that attacks fruits and vegetables when they are left to fend for themselves in a moist environment. The nasty little organism latches on to its host with a vengeance, covering it with creepy grey fuzz that nearly sucks the life out of it while intensifying sweetness. Anyone who’s discovered a crate of aged strawberries buried at the back of their refrigerator will know what I’m talking about. While you wouldn’t put one of them anywhere near your mouth, the juice squeezed out of similarly affected grapes can be a sublime definition of dessert wine. The Hungarians were the first to figure their way around the problem back in the early 17th century. The descendant, a nectar-like juice from its Tokaj region, became the toast of Europe. It wasn’t long before competing interpretations started popping up across the continent, most notably in France’s Sauternes and the major regions of Germany. Thick, luscious and sometime cloying, a noble rot wine is never a cheap tipple, thanks to the risk involved when Botrytis gets down to business. When everything comes together, the outcome is a luxurious wonder that speaks for itself (though is more than happy to share the spotlight with a side of blue cheese). As a sidebar for Saturday Night Live fans, Noble Rot was the name of a wine-themed script John Belushi co-wrote and hoped to star in before his untimely death. Dan Akyroyd once told me that Hollywood’s lack of interest in the project broke Belushi’s heart and helped fuel his downward spiral.
+ Ask your questions at bonvivant@quench.me
ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM
low-cal and rottin’\\
PLANTING AN APPLE SEED WILL PRODUCE A MORE RANDOM RESULT THAN PULLING THE HANDLE ON A VEGAS SLOT MACHINE. APPLES GROWN FROM SEEDS ARE “EXTREME HETEROZYGOTES,” OFTEN ONLY DISTANTLY RELATED TO THEIR PARENT DNA.
VERGER BY CRYSTAL LUXMORE
IT WAS THESE ZANY APPLES, born from seeds brought over from England and France by early settlers, that made up Canada’s first hard ciders. Because of the ease of harvesting the ingredients, cider was the tipple of choice for English and French settlers. It was a farmhouse drink; besides apples, settlers would chuck in raisins, molasses and other miscellaneous sugar to up the booze factor, often maturing it in a spare rum or port barrel. That scrappy cider is a far cry from the commercial Strongbow or Somersby’s ciders that dominate the market today. Commercial ciders are commonly made up of 10 to 30 percent apple juice with concentrate, water, malic acid and sugar making up the difference. But recently — nearly 100 years after our cider-making heritage was crushed by the rise of breweries and prohibition — artisanal ciders are making a comeback, driven by a triumvirate of local-foodism, a thirst for craft booze and gluten aver-
sion. And the small-batch makers at the heart of the boom are adopting that same freewheeling, experimental approach as the early settlers. In 2000, Charles Crawford and his wife Susan Reid, along with their 5- and 6-yearold children, moved from Montreal to the country looking to simplify their lives. The couple fell in love with a 450-acre 1859 farmhouse nestled in apple orchards on the slope of Pinnacle Mountain. So they became residents of Freilsbierg, a village of 1,028 people on the Vermont border. Little did they know that by 2013 their ice, still and sparkling ciders would be awarded over 100 gold medals worldwide. Cidre de glace, or ice cider, is a Quebec invention that is coveted worldwide. Today, the majority of Quebec’s 80 or more cideries produce at least one of these sweet and tart, high-alcohol sippers. And while the icy stuff put Quebec on the map, these days, producers are experimenting with a wider range of hard ciders.
Domaine Pinnacle’s Verger Sud is a good example of the unique imprint that Quebecois makers are bringing to ciders. “We press fresh apples like Courtland and McIntosh, ferment it for about six weeks and add ice cider to it for added smoothness and sweetness,” explains Charles. “We’ve had wine experts taste it blind and ask what grapes it’s made with.” Indeed, the still cider is an exercise in elegance: candied apple, honey and orange blossom aromas give way to a full-bodied stunner of sweet apple, tropical fruit, fresh hay and bright, lemon acidity. Pinnacle is part of a revival of cider that started in Quebec in the late 1990s and is characterized by world-class offerings from leading cideries like Michel Jodoin, who borrow heavily from vintners. In the rest of Canada, the cider tradition is even younger, with most outfits sprouting up in the apple belts of Nova Scotia, Ontario and British Columbia over the last decade. These new makers are
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looking not just to wine, but to English, Norman and early North American cider traditions for inspiration. “My focus is to produce a really good North American style cider,” says John Brett, a film editor and cider-lover who partnered with farmer Andrew Bishop to start Tideview Cider in the Annapolis Valley of Nova Scotia eight years ago. Brett has researched which apple varieties were favoured for cider production along the eastern seaboard from Delaware to Nova Scotia in the Colonial period. “Very few of them were traditional English cider apples, which are great for adding tannins, but not great for much of anything else,” he says. “In North America, there wasn’t that same degree of diver-
With aromas of tart apples, strawberry and hints of vanilla, the Heritage Dry feels like a sparkling wine with layered notes of apple, grassy tannins and a hint of limestone, finishing clean and dry.
gence between a multi-purpose apple and cider-specific apples,” he explains. “But we did favour certain varieties for cider. Out East, the Golden Russet was the basis of most good ciders, then you would add others like Ribston Pippin.” Tideview grows and uses these and other heirloom varietals. Rather than using English cider apples for tannin and acids, Brett’s been biting into crab apple trees in the valley to find one with promising traits. Last year he discovered a Golden crab apple in a nearby orchard and blended it into the latest vintage of his flagship cider, Heritage Dry. Next year he plans to buy every apple on that tree.
It was this potential that convinced Spirit Tree Estate Cidery’s founder, Thomas Wilson, to sell his family’s pickyour-own fruit farm in Caledon, Ontario nearly a decade ago, buy a nearby orchard and train to be a cidermaster in England. Wilson opened Spirit Tree Estate in 2008 on an orchard nestled among farms and ranch-style homes of wealthy Torontonians (chef Michael Bonacini of Oliver & Bonacini is next door). Under the roof of a sprawling, straw bale, Aframe farmhouse is the cidery, a tasting room, brick oven bakery and a farm shop selling locally produced sausages, milk, and house-made pies and terrines. Like
20 // April 2014
BESIDES A FEW PRIVATE ORCHARDS, North American heirloom and Old World varietals are hard to come by for Ontario’s fledgling cider industry. But the Ontario Craft Cider Association is working to change that by talking numbers to apple growers; a 2013 Economic Impact Study commissioned by the association predicts craft cider sales will continue as one of the fastest-growing categories at the LCBO, with sales rising from $1.13 million last year to $35 million by 2018.
most of the new cideries opening up, Spirit Tree isn’t just a production facility; it’s a destination, seducing visitors with a heady aroma of applesauce, freshbaked bread and damp earth. But what brings most people here in the first place is the drink. “When we launched in 2007, we wanted to do a true English scrumpy cider,” says Wilson, a trim, babyfaced 42-year-old, who wears a baseball cap, rectangular glasses and a BlackBerry on his belt, “but we knew Ontario’s palate wasn’t ready for that as our flagship.” Still, Spirit Tree’s Draught Cider and Pear Ciders nod in the scrumpy direction. To achieve this, Wilson keeps a tank or two of wild-fermented cider and blends part of it into the main batch, which uses an English Cider yeast strain containing a hint of Brettanomyces. He lets those secondary flavours develop over four to six months of cellaring. The results are some of the most complex ciders in the province, like the Pear Cider with flavours of sweet, overripe pear, a crackling, lemony acidity and backing notes of earthy funk and white pepper. In the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island, British Columbia’s oldest working cidery, Merridale Estate, has a lot in common with Spirit Tree — including a brick oven for artisanal baking, a line of English-style ciders and a farm shop. But Merridale’s Mediterranean-like climate, sloping terroir and Old World cider apples make for two very different products. A hint of alcohol warmth is the only signal that Merridale’s incredibly smooth, clear amber scrumpy clocks in at 11 percent ABV. The drink packs cider vinegar aromas and a sour apple taste with lots of tannins and a long, dry finale. Janet Docherty, who bought Merridale 14 years ago with her partner, Rick Pipes, says she’s happy to be experiencing the cider boom first-hand: “We’ve seen huge success over the last year, the demand from bars and restaurants really took off — craft cider is incredibly appealing, and it’s not just a fad,” she says. Across the Saanich inlet, Victoria’s Sea Cider Farm and Ciderhouse is also making waves for its crisp, certified organic sippers. A trim, 45-year-old brunette with strands kissed by long days on
the farm, Kristen Jordan was an international development aid worker before starting Sea Cider eight years ago. Cidermaster Jordan’s inspiration comes from her extensive travels: “Looking at cider traditions around the world, whether it’s Heredforshire, France or Spain, inspires me,” she says. “North America has this forgotten cider tradition and we’re trying to bring that back to life, which is inspiring in itself.” Jordan’s ciders are as worldly and varied as the 1,000 English, French, German and New World apples that she planted in her seaside orchard in 2004. One of the few ciders in the world made without added sulphites, Sea Cider’s Flagship is a thing of restrained beauty: apple, lemon and fennel dominate the nose and carry into the palate with a slight hint of sea salt and a lightly effervescent feel. Other rising cider-makers are taking a leaf from upstart brewers in Canada, many of whom are starting up by renting tanks in larger breweries before investing in bricks-and-mortar.
Haworth loves to experiment: he’s got ciders aging in everything from Tawse Merlot to Bourbon barrels, and fermenting with beer, wine, wild and champagne yeasts. In December, he took over the taps at Momofuku Noodle Bar pouring a custom cider made with pear, shiso, yuzu, ginger, amazake and sake yeast. This year he’s planning collaborations with a number of Ontario craft breweries.
IN CANADA’S CRAFT CIDER renaissance, nothing is off limits, a fact Haworth relishes. As for the few rules that do exist — like don’t make a single varietal cider from the rogue North American crab apple — Haworth mostly ignores them. His Schoolyard Crab, made only with Dolgo crab apples (which he picked off of two trees in his daughter’s schoolyard), is currently aging in Cabernet Franc barrels from Fielding estate in Niagara. Meanwhile, in BC’s interior, two sisters have turned an unlikely spot into one of the most buzzed-about craft cideries in the province. Theresa Pedersen, 42,
JOHN BRETT FROM TIDEVIEW
British-born chef Chris Haworth launched West Avenue Cider last year without a cidery — let alone an orchard. Moving here from London, England eight years ago, the 40-year-old chef noticed the dearth of artisanal cider in Ontario and spotted an opportunity. Last year he took the plunge, quitting his job as head chef at Spencer’s at the Waterfront in Burlington, Ontario and renting space from Pommies Dry Cider in Caledon.
and Kate Garthwaite, 29, operate Left Field Cider Company from their family’s cattle ranch in Mamette Lake. After studying cider-making in England, Garthwaite brought her skills back home where the family turned its barn into a cider house and the family launched Left Field Cider Co. in 2011. Their signature cider, Big Dry, is a clear, straw-coloured sparkler with a clean, crisp fresh apple aroma and flavour that finish-
es dry with a hint of sweetness thanks to the addition of BC dessert apples, which Garthwaite blends in with traditional English and French cider varieties. Canada’s emerging craft cideries make products where fresh-pressed apple juice makes up 80 to 100 percent of the cider. “It’s our job to increase the awareness of what a full juice cider is,” says Garthwaite. “We’d like to get a designation like VQA that distinguishes a juice cider from a commercial one.” So while Canada’s nouveau ciders are just as artisanal as those of North America’s early colonists, their business savvy and passion for the art of it all mean this is no ordinary renaissance, it’s the beginning of a whole new era. •
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BEFORE 2009, I HAD NEVER HEARD OF BONARDA, in fact it was the further thing from my mind. But after I was introduced to it at a Catena Family tasting by Celeste Pesce (at the time assistant winemaker and export manager for Catena Wines), I couldn’t wait to try more. The old adage states, “you never forget your first time” — and in this regard it is so true: we were being introduced to the labels of Laura and Ernesto Catena, and they pulled out this funny little labelled bottle from La Posta; the Bonarda in bottle was made from 46 year old vines … and after tasting it I thought: “46 years old, where has this grape been all my life?” That day started my pseudo-love-affair with the wines made from this grape. It was not like a drug addiction: I didn’t crave it day in and day out, but it started me searching out more Bonardas to try. Sure there have been some bottles I have tried that disappointed, but I find myself lured by the juiciness and red fruit of the ones I love, I jones for my next hit off a good bottle; it’s like that one great golf shot you make every time you play, I kept coming back for more. But where does this unheralded grape come from (where has it been all my life)? Bonarda has been known to the wine world since the 19th century and was at one time the most widely planted grape in Eastern France. It masquerades under a couple of names: Douce Noir (France) and Charbono (California); but today it is the 2nd most planted red grape in Argentina after, you guessed it, Malbec.
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Don’t be a stranger to this grape. Get out there and try it, because if Argentinean Malbec has showed us anything, it’s that the next wave of must try wine can come from anywhere and be anything. It’s always good to try it from a label you know, and ... well ... Argentina is hot right now, and you know what they say about striking when it’s hot. There may not be a lot of it out there, but mark my words, more will be coming. So get ready to try all you can. Here are a handful that I have tried and enjoyed this past year. Note the common word in each review, “juicy.”
LA PUERTA 2009 RESERVA BONARDA ($19) Nice juicy red fruit and slightly spiced; sure it’s one of the pricier versions I’ve tried, but it’s a Bonarda that’s very much worth trying.
LAS MORAS 2010 BLACK LABEL BONARDA ($15) Juicy cherry, chocolate, mocha and blackberry; lovely fruit and did I mention how juicy it is?
LA POSTA 2011 ESTELA ARMANDO VINEYARD BONARDA ($14.95)
Sweet and supple fruit with lovely round mouthfeel and a touch of smokiness, one of the more complex Bonardas I have tried; for me this is where the love affair began (see next page).
J
Bonarda, misunderstood grape or hidden gem of the wine world? Argentina seems to have come out of nowhere, flooding shelves with Malbec — it reminds me of the Sauvignon Blanc epidemic that New Zealand started. Suddenly everyone is growing and bottling and drinking Malbec. And I do mean everyone, from Ontario to California, it’s all the rage. But what in God’s name does my first statement about Bonarda have to do with Malbec and Argentina? More than you think.
JUICY
BY MICHAEL PINKUS
YAUQUEN 2012 BONARDA ($14.95)
Soft and juicy, the fruit explodes in the mouth and it’s all mostly of the red fruit variety; this is a good one to begin your journey through the land of Bonarda.
ALGODON 2010 PRIVATE COLLECTION ESTATE BONARDA ($19.95)
Juicy, sweet of fruit and easy drinking: lots of cherry with hints of spice.
DURIGUTTI 2008 BONARDA ($17.95)
Super juicy with red raspberry and loads of easy drinking flavour. Nice with Boeuf Bourguignon.
BLENDS …
TRIVENTO 2010 AMADO SUR MALBEC/ BONARDA/SYRAH ($16.95)
Juicy and delicious. Each grape plays its part adding lovely cherry, anise, white pepper and chocolate character.
LA POSTA 2011 COCINA TINTO BLEND – MALBEC / SYRAH / BONARDA ($12.75)
Made from three grapes that Argentina does very well. A well composed bland that’s juicy with red berries and tasty spices.
THE ONE THAT STARTED IT ALL …
LA POSTA 2008 ESTELLA ARMANDO BONARDA ($13.45 – TAKEN FROM MY 2009 NOTES; CURRENT VINTAGE REVIEWED ON THE PREVIOUS PAGE)
This wine is an absolute steal, at under $14 this single vineyard wine (from 46-year-old vines) would be a bargain at twice the price, so you’d be a fool not to buy at least 6. Those deep roots are picking up some real wonderful flavours. Smells of red berries, vanilla, white pepper and plum. In the mouth, it pops with juicy fruit, cherry, plum and vanilla. There’s a nice hit of acidity here that keeps this wine fresh on the palate and a chocolate-mocha finish to die for. One of the best value wines I have tasted. •
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LIVING A DREAM
BY RICK VANSICKLE
SOMMELIER WILLIAM PREDHOMME has a dream; a beautiful dream that is all about Ontario Syrah. It consumes him as he mounts a quest to put this under-appreciated grape in the hearts and on the palates of wine lovers everywhere. He knows it is an uphill battle to elevate this variety to the same stature of many of its more glamorous cousins — Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Riesling. But it’s a battle he’s willing to wage. Until last December, Predhomme was the head sommelier at Oliver and Bonacini’s famed Canoe restaurant. Currently an associate professor at the University of Guelph who’s chasing a variety of new wine-related projects, Predhomme believes that Ontario, and more specifically the Lake Erie North Shore region, is perfect for making cool-climate Syrah in the style more commonly associated with the Northern Rhône, rather than those big, jammy examples from Australia. Perhaps not at the CôteRôtie or Hermitage level (Ontario doesn’t have the topography for that, he says), but more in tune with Crozes-Hermitage. He is so committed that he has launched his own label, nonprofit for now, called the North Shore Project, making his first Syrah from grapes purchased at the Lake Erie North Shore winery Colio. He trucks the grapes from LENS to Prince Edward County’s Hinterland winery where partner and winemaker Jonas Newman made their first Syrah from 2012 fruit. Predhomme calls it his “passion project” and plans to bring his North Shore Syrah to restaurants in Ontario before expanding to retail sales. “I want people to dig it,” he says. “I dream about this stuff. Syrah (grown in Ontario) is beautiful, with pepper, meat, bright cherry, lovely balance and great acidity,” he explains. “It’s understated and food friendly and it grows really well here. We have to keep pushing that envelope, but it can be an uphill battle.” Rob Power, from Creekside Estate Winery in Niagara and perhaps the most decorated Syrah winemaker in Canada with his Broken Press Syrah, agrees with Predhomme and can’t figure out why Syrah doesn’t get its due in Ontario. He says it ripens two to three weeks earlier than varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and produces a great wine even in the traditionally weaker vintages for reds such as 2008, 2009 and 2011. “We’re not trying to make a super-ripe, super-jammy Shiraz. We’re looking for food friendly wines, elegant and structured. I think we’re getting better — we’re figuring out how to ripen it and not push it somewhere where it shouldn’t go,” Power says.
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After tasting through the vast majority of Syrahs (and Shirazes) made in Ontario, I would say the future is bright for this beautiful grape.
CREEKSIDE BROKEN PRESS SYRAH 2010, NIAGARA ($40)
The nose is enthralling with graphite, roasted meats, blackberries, currants, cracked peppercorns, oak spice, loam, violets and smoky-savoury notes. It is thick, rich and luxurious on the palate with black fruits mingling brilliantly with espresso bean, earth, boysenberry, spicy pepper and vanilla. About 5% Viognier is co-fermented into the blend.
FIVE ROWS CRAFT WINE SHIRAZ/SYRAH 2010, NIAGARA ($50)
A nose that’s meaty, earthy and smoky with gobs of dark, rich, black fruits, pepper and an array of other spices. And, in the mouth, yes, there are firm tannins, but structural tannins, not overly aggressive, to go with blackberries, cassis, currants, cracked peppercorns and all lifted by vibrant acidity.
TAWSE ESTATE SYRAH 2010, NIAGARA ($50) The nose reveals meaty dark fruits, rich cherry notes, mocha and pepper spice, dried herbs and bramble. The fruit is concentrated on the palate and shows complexity with cracked black pepper, black olives and lovely garrigue notes through a long finish.
FLAT ROCK CELLARS THE ROGUE SYRAH 2011, NIAGARA ($35)
A menacing-looking Syrah made unfiltered and showing thick, dark juice that oozes smoky oak, grilled meats, plums, kirsch, cassis and an array of savoury spices on the nose. The meaty black fruits are joined by lavish spices, dried herbs and campfire smoke on the palate. A real treat.
STRATUS SYRAH 2010, NIAGARA ($48)
This Syrah has a complex and gorgeous nose of cassis, earth, pepper, forest floor, bacon fat, sweet oak spices and blackcurrants. It’s tight and highly structured on the palate with concentrated black fruits, roasted meats, cracked peppercorns, lovely cocoa, dusty tannins, and length and power through the finish.
NORTH SHORE PROJECT SYRAH 2012, LAKE ERIE NORTH SHORE ($22)
Textbook cool-climate Syrah with a nose of pepper, hickory smoke, savoury cherry, blackcurrants and spiced grilled meat. It’s nicely balanced in the mouth with darker fruits, light oak spice, cracked black peppercorns and refreshing acidity. Touches of charcoal, tar and liquorice add to the interest through the finish.
MUSCEDERE VINEYARDS SYRAH 2010, LAKE ERIE NORTH SHORE ($40)
The nose shows boysenberry, plum pie, mocha-nutmeg spice, grilled meats, earth and stewed cherries. It has firm tannic structure with meaty-chewy fruits and peppery-spicy notes with a touch of anise on the smooth finish.
CREEKSIDE SYRAH 2012, NIAGARA ($17)
As of the 2012 vintage, Creekside has changed the name to Syrah from Shiraz to better reflect the style more commonly associated with the Rhône. This is a bargain, a wonderful wine with blueberry, violets, currants, plums, game and defined spice on the nose. It’s well structured and tasty with robust fruit flavours backed up by savoury spices.
ROSEHALL RUN ‘THE SWINGER’ SYRAH CUVÉE COUNTY 2011, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($35)
The nose is earthy with savoury cherry fruit, white pepper, raspberry, rousing roasted meat and spice notes. It is lighter in colour than you’d expect but surprisingly ripe in the mouth with lovely texture and a balanced attack of spice.
VIEWPOINTE HIGH POINTE SYRAH 2007, LAKE ERIE NORTH SHORE ($23)
A fully mature Syrah that is well integrated with aromas of deli meats, stewed plums, blueberries, fortified cherry and lavish spices. The bold and mature dark fruits are joined by lovely savoury pepper and spice notes and well-integrated tannins.
JACKSON-TRIGGS DELAINE VINEYARD SYRAH 2011, NIAGARA ($33) A nose of bold dark fruits, liquorice, tar, grilled game, nutmeg, pepper and bramble. It’s lovely on the palate with robust dark fruits, savoury spices, bright acidity and ripe tannins.
WILLIAM PREDHOMME
JACKSON-TRIGGS GRAND RESERVE SHIRAZ 2011, NIAGARA ($25)
Winemaker Marco Piccoli excels with this variety he likes to craft in a Rhône style. The nose shows barnyard, earth, roasted meats, blackberries, currants, pepper and spice. It’s dark and savoury in the mouth with plush tannins, dark fruits, loam and delicious spice.
LAKEVIEW CELLARS SYRAH RESERVE 2010, NIAGARA ($30)
Youthful and tight with plum, cherry-raspberry fruit, cocoa and black pepper notes on the nose. This is a robust and rich Syrah on the palate with ripe red fruits, savoury spices and good tannic structure.
13TH STREET SYRAH 2011, NIAGARA ($30)
The nose shows sweet red fruits, roasted deli meats, raspberry, currants, cracked black peppercorns and a lovely violet note. Shows wonderful freshness on the palate with harmonious red and dark fruits bolstered by pepper spice and gaminess.
PENINSULA RIDGE RESERVE SYRAH 2010, NIAGARA ($25)
A Syrah defined by its smoky and savoury nose that works well with the dark berries, field raspberry and stewed herbs. This is a big, structured Syrah on the palate with meaty, smoky, bold and flavourful fruits on the palate.
ROCKWAY VINEYARDS SMALL LOT BLOCK 12-140 SYRAH 2011, NIAGARA ($26) A rich nose of wild berries, cassis, tar, liquorice and black pepper. This is a bold and assertive Syrah on the palate with dark fruits bolstered by savoury spices, well-defined tannins and a smooth, long finish.
EASTDELL BLACK LABEL SHIRAZ 2011, NIAGARA ($20)
A friendly Syrah with aromas of wild berries, plum and peppery spices. It’s soft on the palate with savoury red fruits, integrated spices and cedary-smoky notes through the smooth finish. •
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BIG PRICE TAG
BY GILLES BOIS
WHY IS CHAMPAGNE ALWAYS SO MUCH MORE EXPENSIVE THAN OTHER SPARKLING WINE?
DURING A RECENT VISIT, Olivier Krug, whose family owns the prestigious eponymous house — founded in 1843 — made a brilliant case for justifying a higher price of their cuvées. First, they go through great efforts to maximize quality. The grapes from each parcel are vinified separately. In 2012, that meant about 300 lots. Each lot is aged in small barrels, adding to their large reserve of wines that will eventually become part of a cuvée, most likely the Grande Cuvée, which represents about 85 percent of their total production. Mr. Krug had brought with him a bottle, which donned the ID 211024. If you go to their website and enter that ID, you will learn that the wine was assembled (as a still wine) in 2005 from 121 different lots representing vintages between 1990 and 2004. Each sample was necessary to achieve a desired style. The next six years or so were required for bottle fermentation and aging. Impressive, but does that justify a price tag approaching $300? Olivier Krug compares it to nothing less than Romanée-Conti, which currently costs about eight times more, and declares his wine a bargain. He goes on, “even more so if you consider the work and costs involved in making Krug. Conti is from a single grape, a single parcel, a single vintage and is released much more quickly.” This is all true, but a better comparison would be with Krug’s own Clos du Mesnil or Clos d’Ambonnay cuvées, which
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are from a single grape, a single parcel and a single vintage. Clos d’Ambonnay costs roughly the same as Romanée-Conti; Clos du Mesnil about one third. How is that justified, given they are much “simpler” products than the Grande Cuvée? They all are unique, truly exceptional wines, both in terms of complexity and refinement. But supply and demand is the real answer. Supply is limited to what that very special parcel can deliver and expansion is not possible, since grapes from adjacent soils would be different. The exceptional quality and rarity of the wine creates interest, demand increases and the price keeps going up and up as long as someone is willing to pay. But not everyone can afford it. Less exceptional champagnes that cost between $40 and $75 are not always better than other sparkling wines. In-bottle fermentation is important, it makes more complex wines as the yeasts involved nourish the wine during its aging. Look for the words “traditional method” or “classical method” on the label. Some appellations require it, such as franciacortas from Italy, crémants from France and cavas from Spain. A different process involves pressure tanks to capture the carbonic gas produced during the second fermentation; the wine bottled under pressure can be of very good quality. For example, a DOCG Prosecco will likely surpass a cava.
KRUG CLOS DU MESNIL 1998, CHAMPAGNE ($1000)
The dark yellow tint reveals the age of the wine. So does the almost muted effervescence of very fine bubbles. Its nose is arresting, quite the opposite of exuberant with its delicate aromas of ripe yellow fruits, honey and spices. It caresses the palate but fills the mouth with its flavour, the acidity is restrained except in the finish that it lifts and prolongs. This is clearly in a different league than your usual champagne. A revelation.
KRUG GRANDE CUVÉE BRUT, CHAMPAGNE ($275)
An achievement in finesse and refinement. Less effervescent than most, it has a restrained, complex nose of subtle aromas that is difficult to put into words. Fresh and intensely flavourful, its noticeable body and weight on the tongue is sustained by a vivid, perfectly balanced acidity. Great length to match. It makes you stop and reflect on it as you take another sip.
LOUIS ROEDERER BRUT PREMIER, CHAMPAGNE ($64)
Open nose, fresh and delicate, ethereal. Seductive, light and fresh fruity taste with an expansive palate. Finish is a bit less tight than the middle palate but it has a good length.
LOUIS ROEDERER CRISTAL 2005, CHAMPAGNE ($283)
Slightly muted nose at first, but there is a hint of barley sugar. A bit reserved in the mouth too, but you notice ripeness in the flavour and great finesse in the subtle taste. A very distinguished sparkling that requires a bit of concentration to appreciate.
CA’ DEL BOSCO CUVÉE PRESTIGE 2012, FRANCIACORTA ($35) Enticing nose, a touch of rancio adding complexity to the beautiful fruit. The ripe taste is in contrast with the vivid acidity for a nice balance. Good length.
PERRIER JOUET BELLE ÉPOQUE 2004, CHAMPAGNE ($200)
ROEDERER ESTATE BRUT, ANDERSON VALLEY, CALIFORNIA ($30)
HENRIOT BRUT 2003, CHAMPAGNE ($97)
GLORIA FERRER SONOMA BRUT, CALIFORNIA ($23)
Fine and complex nose of ripe fruits, hints of mushroom. Refined, subtle flavours, delicate yet powerful presence in the mouth with great acidity. More finesse than most in this very distinctive cuvée.
Golden yellow colour, a sign of aging. Nose is ripe, featuring a touch of rancio, mushroom and fresh pasta. The vivid acidity has a great finesse, so do the flavours that fill the mouth. It finishes very dry.
HENRIOT BLANC DE BLANCS BRUT, CHAMPAGNE ($78)
Complex nose with good intensity of white fruits, light fresh mushroom and floral perfume. Nice fruity taste, good acidity for liveliness and refreshing presence.
HENRI ABELÉ BRUT, CHAMPAGNE ($60)
Some complexity on the nose with notes of white fruits and rancio. Good presence in the mouth, flavourful and a fully dry, long finish.
BRUNO PAILLARD BRUT PREMIÈRE CUVÉE, CHAMPAGNE ($62)
The inviting nose has everything you expect, even a floral touch, but no rancio. Ditto on the palate. It is complete, round and balanced. Very well done.
POL ROGER BRUT, CHAMPAGNE ($61)
Ripe nose of white fruits, slightly perfumed, very pleasant. Lots of finesse in flavour and in its acidity, and very dry especially in the finish, which is very clean.
The nose has more ripeness than most Californian sparkling tasted in the same session. It has elegance on the palate with its fine acidity that allows the fruit to fully express itself.
Light nose, slightly perfumed with some complexity. Nice on the palate, if a bit light on taste. Good buy.
MUMM NAPA PRESTIGE BRUT, CALIFORNIA ($26)
Nose has discrete but ripe aromas of white fruits. Clean taste, refreshing and well balanced. Satisfying.
VALLFORMOSA COLLECCION BRUT RESERVA CAVA, SPAIN ($25)
Conifer notes and minerally on the nose. Light taste with fine acidity and balance. Racy, dry finish.
MOINGEON PRESTIGE BRUT, CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE ($22)
Inviting nose with discreet notes of pear, biscuit, bread dough, dried mushrooms. Lively taste, the fine acid edge is tempered by the fruit in a greatly balanced palate.
BERNARD MASSARD CUVÉE DE L’ÉCUSSON BRUT, LUXEMBOURG ($17)
What a bargain! A very decent méthode traditionnelle, well done and balanced in every aspect. A blend of Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, aged 2 years before release. A bit simple in its flavour and aromas, but a clean taste that finishes neatly. •
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WHAT WINE WITH WHAT FOOD? When the Persians first made wine, likely in clay amphorae, a debate started, perhaps along the lines of, “what is the best wine to serve with crushed chickpeas?” Through trial and error, certain wine/food pairings have, over time, become accepted as classics. For example, red Bordeaux with roast beef, and white Burgundy with delicate white fish. Wine writers have filled volumes with suggestions of good matches. Implicitly, the pairing of food and wine has been treated as an art or a matter of personal opinion. As might be expected, those opinions are often contradictory. But today is the age of reason and science! Is there a more dependable way of determining, in advance and without wasteful error, which wine will enhance the pleasure of a particular dish, raising the gustatory experience to new levels of bliss? At least one scientist thinks so, and has done some extensive research to test his theories. Quebecer François Chartier, in his book Taste Buds and Molecules, advances the theory that the volatile aromatic molecules released in your glass of wine can be compared, by chemical structure, with the volatile aromatic molecules that give taste to your food; if the structure of those molecules is similar, then voilà — a match made in heaven! Chartier refers to this approach as “molecular sommellerie,” and provides abundant examples of pairings that apply his theory. Intrigued, I decided on an admittedly pseudo-scientific experiment: my wife and I invited several unsuspecting guinea pigs (ie. friends) to dinner. We served several dishes and paired each dish with two different wines: one being a commonly accepted match, and the other a match suggested by Chartier’s book. Here I present the results, complete with recipes and wine pairings. I invite you to try this yourselves — if nothing else, you can count on interesting debates around the dining room table!
amuse bouche: maple-glazed walnuts
The major aromatic molecule here is “sotolon,” found in walnuts, maple syrup and curries, and in syrupy sweet wines such as Sauternes and vin jaune from Jura, France. We matched the nuts with an off-dry champagne as a traditional aperitif, and with a Sauternes, Château Partarrieu 2008. Survey says: everyone agreed that the Sauternes had sympathetic flavours, but most found it much too sweet, overshadowing the maple syrup. Winner: the champagne.
appetizer: grilled salmon with balsamic pearls, basil oil and roasted beets
We matched this with a slightly oaked Chardonnay from the Languedoc as a typical pairing with salmon, and a manzanilla sherry as suggested by Chartier. The principal aromatic molecules in the sherry are acetaldehydes and lactones. Survey says: the majority preferred the sherry, somewhat to their surprise. It confirms that too few people think of sherry as the versatile and food-friendly wine that it is. Chartier points out that sherry contains at least 307 identified volatile compounds, and can therefore complement a wide variety of foods.
salad: prosciutto bundle of goat cheese, served on mixed greens with crisp-blanched green beans dressed with argan oil and balsamic truffle vinegar
We matched this with a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc as a traditional pairing with the goat cheese, and with a fino sherry, which Chartier suggests will pair well with salted hams such as prosciutto because of the acetaldehydes. Incidentally, this salad is one of my favourite dishes of all time. Survey says: the sherry was the unanimous preference with the cheese and prosciutto timbale, which most folks felt overpowered the white wine. However, the Sauvignon Blanc was, with some dissent, preferred with the greens and beans.
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BY RON LITEPLO
BRAVE
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main course: rack of pork with fennel crust, served with roasted root vegetables and roasted baby mixed potatoes scented with basil
Here we were highlighting anise-flavoured compounds such as anethole, estragole and menthol, which can be grouped into the anise/ mint family. We served this with a lovely old Rioja as a traditional match to the roast pork, and with a rich Australian Sauvignon Blanc to match the aromatic molecules of the fennel and the basil. Survey says: there was an even split of preferences here. While everyone acknowledged that the white wine paired beautifully with the accompanying vegetables and the fennel crust on the roast, I think the Rioja was just so good that it was a hit despite any clashing flavours.
Overall conclusions: the molecular sommellerie concept definitely stands up to the taste test, and can point us to interesting new wine/food pairing directions — but, as it should be, individual tastes and preferences remain the ultimate deciding factor. The point is to experiment and have fun!
MAPLE-GLAZED WALNUTS SERVES 10
2
1/3 1/4
cups walnut halves cup maple syrup tsp sea salt
Preheat a dry skillet over medium-high heat and toast the walnuts for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add maple syrup and cook, stirring frequently until syrup caramelizes, about 3 minutes. Take off heat and sprinkle with sea salt. Let cool. Break apart and serve.
GRILLED SALMON WITH BALSAMIC PEARLS, BASIL OIL AND ROASTED BEETS SERVES 10
For the roasted beets and balsamic pearls: 1 tbsp agar-agar (available in health food stores — used as a thickener) 2-3 beets 3/4 cup balsamic vinegar (divided) Pipette or narrow eyedropper for the pearls
1. Trim off stem ends of beets and scrub. Place on double
thickness of foil and drizzle with water. Wrap foil over beets and seal package tightly. Place on baking sheet and bake in 425°F oven until tender, about 1 hour. Peel, slice into 1/4 inch slices and use small cookie cutter to create shapes of your choice. Soak in 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar until ready to serve. 2. Balsamic pearls: Fill a tall narrow glass with olive oil and chill in the freezer for 30 minutes (set a timer to remind you to take it out or the oil will freeze). 3. In a small saucepan, combine remaining vinegar and agar-agar powder (use sparingly up to 1 tbsp — too much and the fluid will be too thick to draw into the pipette) and bring to a boil. Allow to cool.
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4. Remove the cold oil from the freezer. Fill the pipette or dropper with the mixture and slowly dribble it into the oil. Beads will form and sink to the bottom. Try to keep the beads small, like caviar. 5. Dropping the vinegar in a continuous circle from outside to in will help keep the pearls dropping individually. Allow the pearls to set for a couple of minutes then remove with a slotted spoon into a bowl of cool water. 6. The pearls are remarkably sturdy and extras will keep in the refrigerator for a couple of days.
For the basil oil: 1
cup tightly packed basil leaves cup olive oil 1/4 tsp kosher salt Black pepper
3/4
1. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Have a bowl of ice water ready.
Blanch the basil leaves in the boiling water for about 10 seconds. Quickly remove and immerse in ice water. Ensure the basil is very cold. Remove and squeeze to shed the excess water. 2. Chop the basil and put it in a blender. Add the oil and salt; blend until the basil is puréed. Let the purée settle and then strain through a cheesecloth and empty into a squeeze bottle.
For the grilled salmon: 10 centre-cut salmon fillets, skinned (about 120 g each) Olive oil to coat
1. Position a rack in the centre of the oven and preheat to
400˚F. Arrange the fillets on a parchment-lined baking sheet and brush both sides with olive oil. 2. Season with salt and pepper and roast 8 to 10 minutes or until the salmon is cooked through and flakes easily with a fork. Let sit 10 minutes. 3. Place the salmon on a small plate. Drizzle basil oil over the salmon and in a circle around the plate. Pat dry beets and place on the plate and scatter 1 tbsp balsamic pearls over the salmon.
PROSCIUTTO BUNDLE OF GOAT CHEESE SERVED WITH MIXED GREENS AND CRISPBLANCHED FRENCH BEANS SERVES 10
15 300 60 1/2 225 1/2 1/3 10
very thin slices prosciutto g soft goat cheese (room temperature) g cream cheese (room temperature) cup chopped chives or green onions g French green beans cup Argan oil *see note balsamic truffle vinegar *see note cups mixed baby greens
1. Line 10 small (1/4 cup) ramekins with plastic wrap, leaving overhang. Line each ramekin with 2 slices of prosciutto, overlapping to ensure there are no holes (patch any holes with extra prosciutto).
TODAY IS THE AGE OF REASON AND SCIENCE! IS THERE A MORE DEPENDABLE WAY OF DETERMINING, IN ADVANCE AND WITHOUT WASTEFUL ERROR, WHICH WINE WILL ENHANCE THE PLEASURE OF A PARTICULAR DISH, RAISING THE GUSTATORY EXPERIENCE TO NEW LEVELS OF BLISS? 2. Stir together, until well blended, cheeses with 1/4 cup
green onions or chives. Season liberally with pepper and spoon into the ramekins. Fold over the prosciutto, again ensuring there are no holes. Fold over the plastic wrap and press to compress. Chill at least 4 hours. 3. Steam or blanch French beans until just crisp-tender, about 3 to 4 minutes. Drain; rinse with cold water. Pat dry. Cover and chill. 4. Invert ramekins to release bundles. Peel off plastic and spray non-stick pan with oil over medium heat. Add bundles, and heat both sides until lightly seared and the cheeses are just soft, about 5 minutes. 5. Meanwhile, whisk oil and vinegar. Toss with greens just before serving. 6. Divide beans, salad and prosciutto bundle on plates. The bundle should take centre stage. *Argan oil can be difficult to find but well worth the hunt. Use any good quality or flavoured olive oil. Balsamic truffle vinegar can be found in specialty food stores.
RACK OF PORK WITH FRESH FENNEL CRUST SERVES 10
Because of the brining, this must be started a day in advance.
3-4 lbs pork rib roast
Brine (compliments of Thomas Keller): 4 1
1/4 12 1/2 2 3 1 1
l water cup kosher salt cup plus 2 tbsp honey or agave sweetener bay leaves garlic cloves, skin left on, smashed tbsp whole black peppercorns large fresh rosemary sprigs, rinsed large bunch of fresh thyme, rinsed large bunch of Italian parsley, rinsed
1. Combine all the brine ingredients in a large pot, cover and bring to a boil. Boil hard for 1 minute, stirring to dissolve salt.
2. Remove from heat and cool completely before using. After
the liquid is cold, submerge the roast and refrigerate for 8 hours. Discard brine. 3. Rinse roast under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. To tie the roast, cut pieces of twine 15 inches. Tie in between each bone to form a compact eye. 4. If you have a very large, long needle you can thread the twine through the meat over the eye and tie it off. This makes for a very nice presentation.
For the fennel crust: 1 medium head of fennel with fronds attached, coarsely chopped 1/2 cup coarsely chopped onion 6 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped 2 tsp chopped fresh thyme 2 tsp chopped fresh rosemary 2 tsp chopped fresh sage 2 tsp chopped fresh oregano 2 tsp fennel seeds 2 tbsp chopped parsley 1 1/2 tsp coarsely ground white pepper
1. In a food processor with a metal blade, combine the fennel,
fronds, onions and garlic to form a paste. Add the remainder of ingredients and pulse to combine. 2. Form crosshatches in the skin of the roast and season it all over with salt, rubbing it in well. Rub on the fennel-garlic paste on the fatty side and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 8 hours. Remove from refrigerator 1 hour before roasting. 3. Preheat oven to 350˚F. Transfer the pork to a roasting pan and roast for 1 hour and 15 to 30 minutes, or until the internal temperature in the thickest section is 155˚F. 4. Cover the roast if the crust begins to brown too much. Remove the roast and cover it loosely with foil. Rest 15 to 20 minutes before carefully removing twine and slicing it into thick chops. …… Serve with oven-roasted seasonal root vegetables and roasted baby potatoes scented with basil. •
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U s T
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THERE’S A NEW WHITE WAVE BUILDING IN ITALY … AND IT’S HEADED THIS WAY. BY TOD STEWART
“ITALY IS BEST CONNECTED from north to south because of the Apennine mountain range that runs down the centre of the country. There are better roads connecting the country vertically rather than west to east. The main highway has always been: Naples – Rome – Florence – Bologna – Milan.” Rodrigo Redmont, Export Manager for Cantine Talamonti, told me this as we drove “against the grain” along Highway A25 from Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci airport towards our ultimate destination — Loreto Aprutino, a short jaunt from the busy port city of Pescara, Abruzzo. Had it not been for the tunnels recently (by Italian history standards) bored beneath the mountains of the Abruzzi Apennines (part of the central section of the Apennine range), this drive probably would have taken half a day. Today, with the highways and tunnels, the Abruzzi coast is a fairly short drive from the Eternal City (or, if you happen to be there in the summer, the Infernal City). Considering the spectacular scenery, fantastic food and terrific wine, you’d think the area would be a mecca for tourists as
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well as Romans. But this doesn’t seem to be the case, which is probably fine by the locals. “Abruzzo today is still authentic Italy,” Redmont confirmed. “The great agricultural and pastoral history in the hilly and mountainous land has maintained an original flavour that you no longer find elsewhere. And it’s sparsely populated and rarely visited by tourists.” Over the course of the following few days, I’d have the pleasure of experiencing this authenticity on many levels, mostly (and thankfully) in the form of the aforementioned wine and food. As we continued towards our destination, Redmont pointed out some of the unique aspects of Loreto Aprutino in specific and Abruzzo in general. “Loreto Aprutino is the Italian municipality with the highest density of olive groves, with the Aprutino-Pescarese being the first Italian DOP for olive oil. The region is the second largest producer of Italian truffles, the majority of which are the prized black diamond variety. Abruzzo is also the second most important producer of potatoes in Italy. In fact, we literally have
almost a ‘cru’ classification system for them. The Navelli area produces the best saffron in the world due to its exceptional climate. It takes 200,000 flowers to produce one kilo of saffron, and harvest can only take place during the daylight hours of a 15-day window. Our fantastic wheat and pristine water make Abruzzo the pasta capital of Italy and also the home of some of the country’s great fashion houses, including Brioni.” As well, one-third of Abruzzo’s land is dedicated to national parks (like the glorious Maiella National Park). The region is also the birthplace of the poet Ovid, and, apparently, of Italy’s best-known adult film star. As eye opening as all this was, it was the quality of the region’s white wines that was to really surprise me. Not that Abruzzi red wines weren’t top drawer, it’s just that at home I hadn’t had the opportunity to experience the region’s best whites. On further reflection, it struck me that this is probably the case for Italy’s white wines in general. Sure, there’s the tsunami of Pinot Grigio that has crashed ashore in recent years. And most of us have at least heard of Soave, Moscato, and perhaps even
i
a Gavi and Verdicchio (mostly due to its bottle shape). But these hardly represent all (and certainly not the best) the country can offer. In fact, some of Italy’s top whites are not coming out of the most typically well-known regions, or being fermented from grape varieties the majority of us have likely heard of. When was the last time you treated yourself to a Falanghina, Vermentino, Greco di Tufo, Pecorino, Passerina, Albana di Romagna or Arneis? (OK, you’re reading a wine maga-
zine, so the answer could well be, “yesterday.” Or maybe you read Brenda McMillan’s story in the February/March issue of Quench.) I was even surprised to find that some of the better-known and seemingly humble Italian white grape varieties can make sensational wines, though we rarely see them on these shores. Take Trebbiano (d’Abruzzo to be specific) as a case in point. Most of the Trebbiano d’Abruzzo we see (and maybe buy) is, frankly, a little
lame. Sure, it’s the only Abruzzo white to sport Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) status, but the majority of the stuff exported to Canada comes in 1.5 litre jugs and tastes like it came out of a faucet as opposed to a fermentation tank (IMHO). So I was more than a little (pleasantly) surprised by Talamonti’s versions. “While 74 percent of the wine made in the region is red, we feel that the area around Loreto Aprutino is best suited to
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Transformation the production of white because of the terroir,” Redmont explains. “Our proximity to the Adriatic Sea and the Gran Sasso mountain, together with the corridor formed by the Tavo Valley, result in the perfect climatic conditions. We are actually uprooting some red grape vines in favour of white on our estate.”
ACCORDING TO REDMONT, the secret to making great Trebbiano (as opposed to tap water) involves four main things: “clonal selection, optimum ripeness, low yields and a touch of oak.” He notes that Talamonti’s Trebbiano vines — some of which are over 30 years old — are trained high on pergolas to best circulate air and minimize the impact of heat. “We also prune very aggressively to limit production and maintain concentration,” Redmont says, adding that the ends of the grape bunches are also clipped, resulting in more uniform ripeness. In combination, these factors give Talamonti’s Trebbiano d’Abruzzo wines (Trebi and Aternum) a depth and richness that can allow some of them to age up to 20 years. “Unfortunately, Trebbiano is one of the most widely-planted grape varieties in Italy,” he concludes. “And this means there are several clones of different quality levels, often not of the same potential.” Trebbiano may be the region’s most popular white variety, but it’s not the only white variety. Talamonti’s Trabocchetto
So let’s say your run a winery in Italy and you want to ride the new white wave. Even some of your international importers are hinting (strongly) you should dive in and get white. But there’s a small problem: you’ve developed a reputation for making exceptional red wines from the native Nero d’Avola red, but you have no white grape vines planted. So what do you do? Well, you could start a new vineyard to supply white grapes (costly and a long-term proposition for sure). You could buy grapes from other growers (and put your sole source of raw material in the hands of someone else). Or you could work with what you have, as those at the Morgante winery chose to do. Their Bianco di Morgante is a “blanc de noir” (or perhaps “bianco di nero” to be more precise). “The winery and family itself has become synonymous with Nero d’Avola, having grown it for five generations,” explains Morgante’s Brandy Falconer. “The grapes are treated as white grapes in the vineyard, pruned a little differently, and harvested a bit earlier to yield that great natural acidity that Nero d’Avola is known for. The crushing and fermentation are also carried out at a cooler temperature than our red wines.” No oak is used in either the fermentation or aging. The big question for those at Morgante was not whether they could produce a good wine (consulting winemaker Ricardo Cotarella’s skills were held in high confidence), but whether or not it would set itself apart from traditional Sicilian whites and win over consumers. So, after three vintages, how has the reception been? “Fantastic. Better than anticipated,” Falconer reports. “No one really knows how to categorize it or compare it to anything else, which is fine with the winery. We call it ‘enigmatic and unexpected.’”
(the name of both specialized fishing nets and giant, medieval catapults) is made from 100 percent Pecorino (pecora is Italian for sheep, and legend has it that sheep in the region would feast on these grapes). As this wine demonstrates, there is certainly potential for Pecorino in Abruzzo. However, to experience Pecorino in its most powerful incarnation you need to drive about an VILLA RAIANO’S PAOLO SIBILLO, SIMONE AND SABINO BASSO
34 // April 2014
hour north, to the Marche region and the vineyards in the Arquata del Tronto region of Ascoli Piceno province. This is where the grape originated, and where, had it not been for the work of one of the region’s pioneering winemakers, it would probably have become extinct. It is also the only place in Italy where the wines made from the variety bear the country’s highest designation: Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (in this case, DOCG Offida). The rise in stature of the Pecorino variety (and possibly its continuing existence today) is largely due to the work of Guido Cocci Grifoni, who established Tenuta Cocci Grifoni in 1970. In the early 1980s, when many Italian wineries were planting non-Italian white varieties like Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Cocci Grifoni stuck to his vision of producing wines from local varieties. Mention of one variety — Pecorino — was made in various historic documents. In 1982 Cocci Grifoni uncovered what was likely one of, if not the, last Pecorino vineyards in Pescara, some 1,000 meters above sea level.
With cuttings from this vineyard, Cocci Grifoni re-established Pecorino in his own vineyards and produced his first significant vintage in 1990. At this point it was simply labelled “vino de tavola” (“table wine” — the lowest recognized denomination). His continuing efforts to improve the quality of his wines and to broaden the recognition of the Pecorino variety helped raise the wine’s profile. In 2001, it was granted DOC status and, in 2011, DOCG. Today, sisters Marilena and Paola, with Marilena’s daughter Marta, carry on the work of the elder Cocci Grifoni, with the Colle Vecchio Offida Pecorino DOCG being the winery’s flagship white. “The exposure of our Pecorino vineyards tends to be northeast, northwest, east and west,” Export Manager Marilena Cocci Grifoni reveals. “Southfacing vineyards would be not good for Pecorino. The grapes would ripen too quickly and the balance between sugar and acidity would be lost.” She also points out that Pecorino ripens fairly early. To me, Offida Pecorino comes off as almost a cross between Pinot Gris and Viognier, typically sporting fairly robust alcohol levels, a fragrant aroma and a decidedly rich palate. And it’s a wine that ages quite well. A bottle of golden-coloured 2005 I enjoyed during a seaside dinner was just starting to take on a hint of nuttiness. “Three years ago we did a vertical tasting of our Colle Vecchio back to 1991,” Cocci Grifoni recounts. “The 1991 was outstanding. Many of those at the tasting compared it to a gorgeous Chablis.” Unfortunately, my stay in the Marche was even shorter than that in Abruzzo. After a leisurely day spent on a virtually empty Adriatic beach (it was mid-September but might as well been August), it was back for a few nights in Rome. Only, on the trip back, I had no driver/guide and had to make the trek myself. Of the many lessons I’ve learned over the course of my life, one of the most painfully absorbed has been this: never, ever, even think of driving in Europe without a GPS. Yes, you may have the navigational prowess of Galileo, Copernicus and the
ANTONELLA DI TONNO AND RODRIGO REDMONT FROM TALAMONTI
Duke of Viseu combined, but mark my words, if you don’t rent a car with a GPS, You. Will. Get. Lost. (As I did both getting back to Rome and trying to find the rental car drop off and my hotel.) Traffic in Rome, for those who haven’t experienced it, is a study in social Darwinism. It’s every driver for himself, and only the most confident prevail. Traffic signals, lane markers and rules of the road are, at best, inconveniences. Thing is, in spite of the vehicular density, things move. Quickly. Anyway, I don’t want to bore you (or traumatize myself again with the
memories), so I’ll skip the nightmare of car returns and hotel locating. Instead, I’ll skip ahead to a great, traditional Roman lunch with Alessia Canarino from Campania’s Villa Raiano and a tasting of a couple more Italian white wines I hope we see more of on these shores. “Falanghina, Greco and Fiano are three white grape varieties that are very different from one another,” Canarino noted while pouring a sample of the Villa Raiano Falanghina Beneventano 2011. “Falanghina is fruity with smoky notes — comparable to Chardonnay.” I detected
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CANTINE TALAMONTI TRABOCCHETTO PECORINO COLLE PESCARESI IGT 2012 ($16)
Crafted for 100 percent Pecorinio sourced from 350 meters above sea level. Very aromatic with suggestions of lemon, almond, wild herbs mineral and ripe melon. Fresh and crisp on the palate with flavours of citrus and melon with a hint of anise adding complexity.
CANTINE TALAMONTI ATERNUM TREBBIANO D’ABRUZZO DOC 2007 ($16) smoke for sure on the nose, along with a hint of nuts, lemon drops and flint. “It has fairly large bunches with medium-large fruit that ripens a bit later than average,” she continued. “Fiano generally ripens early while Greco ripens late. The aromatic profile for Greco is similar to Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc with notes of apricot. Fiano wines are rich in aroma with pear, white pepper and smoky notes.” As with Talamonti’s Trebbiano and Cocchi Grifoni’s Pecorino, the white wines of Campania are still being discovered by wine lovers. “Indeed, there is still a lot to do in terms of education and communication,” Canarino admits when asked about the challenges of marketing these wines. “When foreigners think of Italian wine they typically think of Barolo or Chianti. Although our white wines are becoming more and more popular, there is still so much to do … and so much to pour … before our Fiano becomes as popular as Chardonnay.” Hmmm … given the somewhat waning popularity of Chardonnay, Canarino might want to be careful what she wishes for. In any case, when you shine a light on the quality and value of Italy’s lesser-known whites, a whole new vinous spectrum emerges. But as Redmont cautions, wine lovers interested in discovering the value of Abruzzi (and I would broaden the category to cover many Italian) white wines, “Do not wait too long … [this situation] will not last forever.” Once the world catches the wave, prices are bound to rise as well. •
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Deep gold in colour, this barrel aged Trebbiano d’Abruzzo shows the age-worthiness of the variety. Lemon, vanilla, honey, basil and mineral on the nose; rich and intense with a mix of honeyed, floral fruit, licorice, and a bare hint of toasted nuts.
TENUTA COCCI GRIFONI COLLE VECCHIO OFFIDA PECORINO DOCG 2010 ($17)
Intensely aromatic – concentrated lemon, peach and honeysuckle with delicate flinty notes (imagine a cross between a rich Pinot Gris and Viognier). Weighty and viscous on the palate with a complex mélange of very ripe, moderately spicy fruit, mineral and lingering floral/honey notes.
VILLA RAIANO FALANGHINA “BENEVENTANO” IGT 2011 ($22)
Falanghina is a very old grape variety, likely of Greek origin and said to be the grape used for Falernian, the most prestigious wine of Roman antiquity. Villa Raiano’s wine offers up lemon drop and orange peel on the nose, combined with flinty/hazelnut notes. Intense flavours of ripe apple and mild tropical fruit linger on the long, crisp finish.
MORGANTE BIANCO DI MORGANTE VDT 2012 ($15)
A white wine vinified from the black Nero d’Avola variety. Floral with hints of cut grass on the nose with and enticing herbal note somewhat reminiscent of pine needles. Medium to full on the palate with a combination of flavours ranging from peach and apple, through to dried herbs and wet slate.
TINY BUBBLES BY MERLE ROSENSTEIN
IN THEIR HEYDAY, SODA FOUNTAINS TURNED OUT TANTALIZING HOUSE-MADE SYRUPS. Trained professionals, called soda jerks, injected
these syrups into fancy fountain drinks such as flips, fizzes, ades, yips, floats, malts, rickeys and phosphates. A monthly magazine, called Soda Fountain, published recipes of common concoctions. Following trends in beer and spirits, small-batch, high-quality soda is popping up across Canada. The new sodas, made with natural, seasonal ingredients, tempt the most diehard fizz fans. Quench talked to soda artisans in Halifax, Victoria and Toronto to learn how these bubbly beverages take shape.
CHEESEWERKS: PERFECT CHEESE-SODA PAIRING
Self-proclaimed “Big Cheese” Kevin Durkee runs CHEESEWERKS, the family-owned cheese eatery in downtown Toronto. I sat across from Durkee sipping a tall tumbler of Blueberry Maple soda. The fresh blueberry melded perfectly with the subtle sweetness of Quebec maple syrup to create a full, refreshing mouthfeel. CHEESEWERKS does not sell big brand pop. “With a restaurant dedicated to cheese, we really felt that traditional colas and extra sweet items were not the best pairing. When you think of a cheese plate, where you’ve got a beautiful selection of cheese, and you are using apricots and fresh berries and peaches and pears and apples, those flavours work really well in a soda. The soda then gets paired with either a cheese plate or a grilled cheese or something that’s got a little more of that comfort quality to it.”
They started crafting soda “to create flavour combinations you may not see on the grocery shelves or on the traditional menu.” The cheese emporium lists three sodas daily out of about two dozen. The top five sodas are Mango Lime, Blueberry Maple, Orange and Vanilla, Super Fruit and Mint Lime, sort of like a mojito without the alcohol. A shot of rum or gin can be added to the soda. “For Chinese New Year, we do a lychee soda with some ginger,” says Durkee. A simple process is used to create the syrups. Fresh or frozen fruit is loaded into a pot to add a bit of warmth and let the juices through. The fruit is then puréed to remove unwanted elements and break down the pulp. The purée is passed through a sieve to take out larger chunks. Almost equal parts of sugar are melted into the purée and the solution is cooled. Last summer, Globe and Mail columnist Sue Riedl hosted a cheese-pop tasting at CHEESEWERKS, featuring the Watermelon Apple and Blueberry Maple soda varieties. In her biweekly cheese column, “The Spread,” Riedl reported that “the fruit sodas created the most successful pairings. Both house-made sodas had a thicker texture, containing particles of the fruit’s pulp, a natural complement to the cheese.” As Durkee explains, “the traditional classic pairing had been wine for so many years and now it’s moving. Pairing of any kind of liquid with any kind of food is personal, but there are also flavour combinations, some textures and tastes that go well together. Fruit and cheese has always been a great one, so a natural extension is cheese.”
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Kevin Durkee, CHEESEWERKS’ Big Cheese, shared a couple of his house-made soda recipes.
CHEESEWERKS BLUEBERRY MAPLE SODA
2 cups frozen blueberries (with juice), thawed 1 3/4 cups white sugar 1/4 cup Canadian maple syrup, amber or dark Carbonated water
1. Blend/purée blueberries and juice to a smooth consistency. 2. Place the purée and sugar into a medium saucepan, set over medium-high heat and bring to simmer.
3. Simmer for 10 minutes to insure all sugar is dissolved. 4. Remove the saucepan from the heat and pour mixture
through a very fine sieve, or colander lined with cheesecloth over a bowl. Discard any skin/pulp. 5. Allow strained liquid to cool for 10 to 15 minutes. 6. Add syrup and whisk to incorporate. 7. Transfer to a squeeze bottle or plastic jug. 8. Stir 30 ml of the blueberry maple liquid with 350 ml of carbonated water and serve over ice. Garnish with fresh blueberries and/or slice of lime.
CHEESEWERKS WATERMELON APPLE SODA 3 cups watermelon, cubed and seeded (no rind) 1 cup Granny Smith (or tart apple of choice), cored, peeled and cubed 1 3/4 cups white sugar Carbonated water
1. Blend/purée watermelon, apple and all juices to a smooth
consistency. 2. Place the purée and sugar into a medium saucepan, set over medium-high heat and bring to simmer. 3. Simmer for 10 minutes to insure all sugar is dissolved. 4. Remove the saucepan from the heat and pour mixture through a very fine sieve, or colander lined with cheesecloth over a bowl. Discard any fibre/pulp. 5. Allow strained liquid to cool for 10 to 15 minutes. 6. Transfer to a squeeze bottle or plastic jug. 7. Stir 30 ml of the watermelon apple liquid with 350 ml of carbonated water and serve over ice. Garnish with fresh watermelon cubes, apple slice and/or slice of lime.
PHILLIPS SODA WORKS: NATURALLY CRAFT BREWED
Phillips Soda Works founder Matt Phillips launched two natural pop flavours as an offshoot of his successful brewery, Phillips Brewing Company. According to Phillips, there are similarities between the production of beer and soda, such as attention to quality of the raw ingredients and how they interact with one another, the need for very sanitary conditions and attention to detail. He points out that soda is made faster because it isn’t fermented.
38 // April 2014
Phillips and recipe developer Ben Schottle spent a lot of time working through different ingredients to find the right ones for the sodas. As Phillips explains, “we spent a lot of time developing a ginger beer — figuring out how to extract as much ginger flavour as possible, and have it stay fresh and crisp in the bottle. We wanted to use real ginger, not some flavouring.” Phillips and Schottle wanted to create the same fresh ginger flavour in a soda, and Sparkmouth Ginger Ale was born. Captain Electro’s Intergalactic Root Beer was developed at the same time, based on an alcoholic version, with real herbs, roots, spices and cane sugar. The Sparkmouth Ginger Ale begins with boxes and pallets of raw ginger that is macerated and steeped in an oxygen-free environment. The cane sugar gets pasteurized and de-aerated water is added, if necessary. The mixture is then batch carbonated before bottling. The root beer has more ingredients such as molasses, pure vanilla extract, sarsaparilla, liquorice root, anise seed, cloves and cinnamon, but the process is largely the same. The ginger ale has a very fresh, raw ginger nose to it. As Phillips explains, “we experimented with lemongrasses and other complementary flavours, but in the end, the aroma of the fresh ginger was so nice, we decided it should stand alone. It has a balanced sweetness and a moderate acidity, and the heat from the ginger is cumulative, but refreshing.” “The root beer is much sweeter, has a full rich and herbal flavour, a hint of mint that keeps it tasting fresh, and a hint of sarsaparilla, but not enough to bring out the earthy flavours it brings. It has a full, rich mouthfeel that is pretty special,” he says. Phillips knows that the sodas mix well in cocktails, but prefers to leave the details to experts. As he says, “As a brewer, I have spent all my time focusing on the subtleties of ingredients, and the expanse of possibility that cocktails provide terrifies me!”
“As a brewer, I have spent all my time focusing on the subtleties of ingredients, and the expanse of possibility that cocktails provide terrifies me!” Phillips Soda Works founder Matt Phillips
JITTERBUG SODAS: SUPPORT FOR LOCAL FARMERS
Unlike Phillips, Rowena Power, one of Jitterbug’s co-founders, uses her farming background to handcraft artisan sodas and cocktail elixirs from local seasonal fruits and herbs. “My goal is to make an interesting and fun product and to support local agriculture,” she explains. Jitterbug’s soda fountain flavours use fruit that would otherwise be wasted and can be mixed with carbonated water or made into cocktails. “A lot of people make jam. We just didn’t feel like becoming another jam company.” Jitterbug has over 50 varieties of soda and Power finds it tough to scale back. Power aimed to create a rainbow of flavours that would look appealing when bottled. A core group of seven flavours reflect the seasons. According to Power, the soda flavours help educate the public about seasonality. RHUBARB THAI BASIL: A combination of Nova Scotia rhubarb and anise-flavoured Thai basil that pairs well with gin and vodka, and brings a local twist to mojitos. BLACKCURRANT GINGER: A warming drink for fall and winter, this flavour works well with dark rum. STRAWBERRY JALAPEÑO: A fruity ginger ale perfect for martinis and dark, stormy drinks. BLUEBERRY GRUNT: Wild Nova Scotia blueberries, bourbon vanilla beans and nutmeg are combined to create a cream soda that tastes like the local blueberry pie. Add a dash to your glass of sparkling wine. KEY LIME AND LEMON ZEST: Made with the zest of limes and lemons, this concoction tastes like Limoncello when combined with vodka. GRAPEFRUIT MINT: The grapefruit and mint pairs beautifully with gin and vodka, and makes excellent mojitos.
MULLED ORANGE: Mulled with allspice and cinnamon, this syrup can be added to a festive punch, rum, whiskey or even beer. Jitterbug Sodas cold presses local fruits and herbs to maintain nutritional benefits. The fruits and herbs are cold steeped in the fridge for a day or so. “Everything is made with natural ingredients,” says Power. Simple syrup is created with fair trade, brown raw sugar. “It is a very concentrated fruit syrup,” confirms Power. Carbon dioxide is pumped into very cold water to make seltzer water. “It’s more like a Champagne Fizz and less like the big bubbles you get in an ordinary soda,” she says. The carbonated water is then added to the syrup. Jitterbug Sodas has a loyal following. Power says that some regulars are horrified if they don’t have Blueberry Grunt on tap. The cream sodas are very popular. In the fall, Jitterbug makes an apple pie cream soda as well, with apple, cinnamon and vanilla. Sodas and elixirs are sold at the Halifax Seaport Farmers Market every Saturday, and through local food trucks, restaurants and cafes. The Wooden Monkey Restaurant in Halifax created a refreshing summer cocktail called the Rhubarb Bloom with Jitterbug’s Rhubarb Mint soda nectar and a gin from a local distillery.
RHUBARB BLOOM 3/4 oz Ironworks Rhubarb Liqueur 3/4 oz organic Gin 1/2 oz lime juice 1 oz Jitterbug Rhubarb Mint Soda Nectar Soda water Fill tall glass with ice. Add all ingredients except for soda. Transfer ingredients to shaker, shake, and pour entire contents of shaker back into glass. Top with soda water and garnish with fresh mint leaf. •
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SPREAD THICK BY ROSEMARY MANTINI
YOU MIGHT SAY THAT BREAD, that most beautiful of human inventions, really doesn’t need any improvement. But let’s just say, for the sake of argument, that improving it is exactly what we wanted to do. Well, I have just the method: spreads. Hummus, olive tapenade, chocolate chips, fruit … the options are limited only by the amount of time, effort and expense you have to put into creating them. Not sure where to start? I asked three chefs to help us out by revealing their favourite bread-enhancing recipes. Jesse Vergen, chef and owner of Smoking Pig Real BBQ and executive chef of Saint John Ale House, both in New Brunswick, offers a whole array of delicious and original spreads that are easy to prepare and sure to impress.
SWEET BARBECUE PORK BUTTER This is a by-product of making delicious barbecued (slow indirect smoking) pork shoulder.
1. Simply place a tray or pan underneath your pork shoulder
in your pit*, and collect 100 g of the rendered barbecue pork fat. Soften 100 g of unsalted butter, 50 ml of molasses and 15 ml salt. 2. Combine all ingredients in a stand mixer with a whip attachment, and whip to combine. Use on thick cut “Texas toast,” or fresh cornbread straight out of the oven. * If you find yourself lacking a pit, feel free to substitute a barbecue or an oven. Lay the pork shoulder on the rack, and place a pan underneath it.
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CAMPARI AND HONEY JELLY
350 ml blood orange juice (about 6 to 7) 200 g white sugar 80 g local honey 100 ml Campari 15 ml lemon juice 15 ml butter 40 ml pectin Zest of 1 orange
1. Boil small jars (125 ml) in a pot of water. Take fresh orange
juice, place it in a stainless steel pot with honey, lemon juice and zest, and bring to a rolling boil. 2. Add sugar, let it return to a boil; add pectin while stirring, then add butter to increase richness. Skim off any foam that comes up. 3. Last thing to go in is the Campari. Pour the hot jelly into sanitized jars. Place on a rack to cool till room temperature, then store in fridge for up to a week.
TAPENADE WITH DIGBY CHICKS (CURED, SMOKED DRIED HERRING) 250 60 40 15
g good quality black olives, pitted ml capers ml pine nuts g digby chicks (dried herring)
1 large garlic clove 15 chopped parsley 20 ml lemon juice Zest of one lemon 80 ml of extra virgin olive oil 5 ml cracked black pepper
Purée all ingredients in a food processor until you reach your desired chunkiness. Or take out your fancy mortar and pestle and grind it slowly in front of your guests.
TARAMOSALATA Effy Ligris who owns Kalikori Olive Oil, breaks out the ouzo for this classic Greek meze treat.
5 3
medium-large yellow flesh potatoes tbsp of tarama roe (roe caviar) 1/2 red onion, grated 1 1/4 cups olive oil Juice of 2 1/2 lemons
Peel and quarter potatoes. Boil in salted water. Let cool, then mash (or use a ricer). Add the tarama roe, onion, lemon juice and olive oil. Mix until smooth. Serve on thick cut bread.
WHOEVER SAID that spreads need to go on top of bread? Chef Victor Bongo, owner of Bongo’s Food in Vancouver, offers up two of his favourite recipes in which all the good stuff is spread on the inside.
CHOCOLATE AND FIGS BREAD “The Chocolate and Figs Bread recipe brings back memories from my childhood in the Congo,” Bongo recounts. “My grandmother used to walk almost two hours from her village to our home to visit every Sunday. She always brought over goodies. It was the same thing every week — a bag of juicy mangoes that she grows in her yard and chocolate bread. Every Sunday was like Christmas. I would wait on the street looking down for her, and as soon as I would see her, I would run and help her by grabbing the bread. So, here I have created my own version of it using figs.” Try slathering a little peanut butter or cream cheese onto a slice for extra oomph.
2 2 1 1 2 1 6
1/2 1/2
tsp dry yeast tsp salt tbsp sugar cup warm milk cups warm water cup dark sifted cocoa powder cups all purpose flour cup dried mission figs, small dice cup dark chocolate chips
1. In a mixing bowl add the yeast, salt, sugar, warm milk and warm water. Cover and place in a warm spot 5 to 10 minutes until frothy.
2. Turn the mixer to low speed and add the sifted cocoa
powder. Mix for one minute, then slowly add the flour. Once all the flour is in the bowl, mix again for about 8 to 10 minutes. 3. Pour the dough onto a well-floured surface and knead about 2 minutes. Add the figs and chocolate chips little by little until they’re evenly incorporated. Form the dough into a smooth ball. Place it in an oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap and place somewhere warm for about 45 minutes to an hour, or till it doubles in size. 4. Take the dough out of the bowl and place it onto a lightly floured work surface. Using a sharp knife or dough cutter, cut the dough into 120 g pieces for rolls or 450 g pieces for baguettes. Shape and place the dough onto a baking tray and set aside in a warm place until almost doubled in size. 5. Bake in a pre-heated oven at 375°F for about 20 to 25 minutes, or till they’re nice and golden brown. Remove from the baking tray and place on a cooling rack.
WHITE CHOCOLATE AND CRANBERRY BREAD “White chocolate and sundried cranberry is my favourite mix of all time,” says Chef Bongo. “And it goes well with everything. The sweetness of the cranberries and the white chocolate make this bread so moist. It is one of those dishes you just can’t stop eating till it’s all gone.” Spreading on a little butter takes the experience to the next level.
2 2 1 1 2 7
1/2 1/2
tsp dry yeast tsp salt tbsp sugar cup warm milk cups warm water cups all purpose flour cup sundried cranberry cup white chocolate chips
1. In a mixing bowl, add the yeast, salt, sugar, warm milk and warm water. Cover and place in a warm spot 5 to 10 minutes until frothy. 2. Turn the mixer to low speed and slowly add the flour. Once all the flour is in the bowl, let it mix for about 8 to 10 minutes. 3. Pour the dough onto a well-floured surface and knead about two minutes. Add the cranberry and chocolate chips little by little until they’re evenly incorporated. Form the dough into a smooth ball. Place in an oiled bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, and place somewhere warm for about 45 minutes to an hour, or till it doubles in size. 4. Take the dough out of the bowl and place onto a lightly floured work surface. Using a sharp knife or dough cutter, cut the dough into 120 g pieces for rolls or 450 g pieces for baguettes. Shape and place on a baking tray and set aside in a warm place until almost doubled in size. 5. Bake in a pre-heated oven at 375°F for about 20 to 25 minutes, or till they’re nice and golden brown. Remove from baking tray and place on a cooling rack. • quench.me
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MUCH SOUL
BY GURVINDER BHATIA
LISTENING TO ADRIAN MILLER, author of Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cuisine, One Plate at a Time, and Imar Hutchins, owner of the Florida Avenue Grill in Washington, DC (which calls itself the “Oldest soul food restaurant in the world”), on Kojo Nnamdi’s WAMU radio program speak about the origins, history and evolution of soul food got me thinking. In particular, I was intrigued by Miller’s comment (as quoted by Nnamdi from Miller’s book) that soul food is “unknown to some, unfamiliar to many and under-appreciated by most.” Miller explained that many people have a misconception that soul food is unhealthy and is a significant contributor to the growing obesity and health issues in the African American community. Part of the problem, he reasoned, was the lack of understanding about soul food’s history and roots. I spent a number of years living in the United States and frequently ate what were referred to as soul food dishes — fried chicken, collard greens, black-eyed peas, corn bread, catfish and sweet potato pie, to name a few. At the time (the mid-1980s to early 1990s), the vast majority of these dishes I consumed were in either casual, family-style restaurants (many would be referred to as holes-in-the-wall) or in the homes of friends and colleagues. Today, many of these dishes have been adopted and modernized on menus of celebrity chefs like Art Smith (Art & Soul, Table 52) and Marcus Samuelsson (Red Rooster, Ginny’s Supper Club). I thought I had a good idea of what soul food was — homestyle, family cooking that had its roots in the southern United States and was influenced by the diet of West Africans who were sold into slavery. But while listening to Miller and Hutchins, I realized that there was more to it.
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I spoke with Tren’ness Woods-Black, granddaughter of the late Sylvia Woods, the “Queen of Soul Food” who opened Sylvia’s Restaurant in New York’s Harlem neighbourhood in 1962. According to Woods-Black, the term “soul food” was popularized in the early 1960s during the heart of the civil rights movement around the same time that the terms “soul music,” “soul brother” and “soul sister” were also regularly being used. Soul food was a reference to the way African Americans had been cooking for generations with its roots in southern plantation cooking. But, Woods-Black continued, we have to look back even further in history to understand the origins of the core ingredients and style of cooking. Woods-Black relates what many food historians, including Miller, believe: that the diet of West Africans (bitter greens, legumes, rice, yams, fish) forms the building blocks of soul food. When the enslaved West Africans were transported to the rural southern US states, they adapted their dishes and cooking techniques to the local ingredients that were available. Collard and mustard greens, sweet potatoes, corn bread, fried chicken, smoked fish, black-eyed peas, rice dishes and chitlins (and other pig parts) were ingredients indigenous to the rural south and formed the core of the dishes that ultimately would be known as the inspirations for soul food. But as Miller explained on Nnamdi’s show, soul food derives from nostalgia. As African Americans migrated from the south and settled in various parts of the country, these dishes represented a connection to home. Woods-Black attributes the immediate success of Sylvia’s to serving an existing demand, as the majority of the Harlem community in the 1960s had origi-
nally migrated from the south. The restaurant was an instant neighbourhood success. But that shouldn’t be a surprise. Food is in so many cultures the focal point for bringing people together and extending hospitality. Miller writes that soul food is a reinterpretation of the “festive foods” prepared by African Americans in the south — a cultural cuisine based on the fusion of West African, European and Aboriginal American ingredients and techniques served on holidays and special occasions. Following Emancipation and the migration of African Americans from the south to other parts of the US, and with the increased availability of southern ingredients to prepare the dishes, the foods traditionally consumed on Sundays and special occasions were, according to Miller, now being consumed several times per week.
THESE “FESTIVE” DISHES often were richer, fattier, saltier and sweeter than the traditional everyday foods, thus, as Miller says, contributed to soul food’s image of being unhealthy. In his book, Miller lays the table with a meal he says is representative of the soul food diet. Fried chicken, catfish, chitlins (pig intestines), black-eyed peas, mac ‘n’ cheese, greens, candied yams, corn bread, hot sauce, banana pudding, peach cobbler, pound cake and sweet potato pie. The list is similar to the one conveyed by Woods-Black. As both Miller and Hutchins explained on Nnamdi’s program, while some soul food dishes may be unhealthier than others (as is the case with any cuisine), fast food and processed foods are more to blame for the obesity and health issues in the African American community (and in society in general). And, writes Miller, while many soul food restaurants have closed (due to a combination of economic, social, political and cultural reasons), there does appear to be an opportunity for the resurgence of soul food through both a return to its roots and its reinterpretation by mainstream chefs. We often hear health professionals advocating for the consumption of legumes, dark leafy greens, fish, chicken, sweet potatoes and root vegetables as a means to control/prevent everything from obesity to diabetes to cancer. These foods, according to Miller, Hutchins and Woods-Black, are all traditional building blocks of soul food. As part of the research for his book, Miller spent a year eating at 150 soul food restaurants in 35 cities. He encountered several that were taking a healthier approach — focusing on vegetarian or vegan versions of the dishes, and eliminating processed ingredients and less healthy cooking techniques. While this may sound like a modernization of the cuisine, Miller says that it is more of soul food moving back to its roots. There also seems to be a surge in everyone from mainstream restaurants to celebrity chefs putting their spin on soul food dishes. Chicken and waffles can be found everywhere from Art Smith’s Table 52 in Chicago to casual restaurants in Edmonton. Kale, mustard and collard greens seem to currently be the “in” ingredients. Whether some restaurants actually know the roots of these dishes is another story. Preserving soul food’s historical significance while allowing for its modernization, as Hutchins stated on Nnamdi’s program, is key for soul food to survive and thrive.
There is little question that soul food has its roots in the rural south. However, Miller clarifies another misperception that the dishes forming the foundation of the cuisine were strictly consumed by enslaved or impoverished African Americans. The dishes, says Miller, were also consumed by white slavers (prepared by enslaved African Americans) and, after Emancipation, by impoverished white Americans. In many ways, every culture has its version of soul food — a cuisine that is represented by struggle, making the most of what you have, living from the land and family. These cultures also seem to place food as the focal point of family gatherings and special occasions, and have a great appreciation and respect for what they do have.
So, then, what is soul food? Miller quotes Chef Wayne Johnson of Seattle, who insists, “soul food is not a cuisine. It’s a product of who’s cooking it and where it’s coming from. You should put love in your food. Machines don’t have soul. You can’t get it from something that’s manufactured.” Perhaps therein lies the answer. Maybe it’s less important to define soul food as it is to understand and appreciate its context with respect to the people, places, culture and history from which it was born. By respecting tradition, remembering history and evolving with the times, soul food will always maintain its place as a significant part of American culture. •
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It’s a Secret!
By Duncan Holmes
A WHILE BACK, a friend who knew that I was more than comfortable working in the kitchen asked if I might come over on Saturday night to prepare a three-course dinner for 17 of her close, sometimes critical friends. Sure, I said. Why not? What else might I be doing on a Saturday night? So, partner in hand to sous, we went at it. And all things considered, it went remarkably well. Until the hollandaise for the salmon of the main course “broke” from its smooth, golden-topping glory, into a lake of seriously divided luxury sauce. Ugh! My partner, who always steps into any crisis with authority, promptly stepped in: “Drop an ice cube into it,” she said, “and start mixing.” I did, and in moments, the sauce returned to its smooth, golden splendour. (In this animal-correct world I shouldn’t be telling what followed, but in appreciation for saving the hollandaise, the hostess presented my partner with a mink stole that once belonged to her mother! Really? Really!) The cooking and kitchen world is loaded with ice-cube-type tricks — and yes, you can Google other ways to unbreak hollandaise! — all of which have been discovered either out of necessity, common sense or accident to make what comes to the table better. Knowing there are many more culinary secrets, I figured what better place to learn about them than at a cooking school and from the chef who runs it? I arranged to meet oft-honoured Executive Chef Julian Bond of Vancouver’s Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts, who, while his latest batch of students were in the midst of a five-hour, term-end practical exam said, “follow me, bring your pencil and I’ll share some stuff.” As we dodged around the working, soon-to-be graduates in the institute’s impeccable kitchens, Chef Julian peppered me with wisdom from a long career in hotel and restaurant kitchens from England to Canada.
44 // April 2014
Don’t use a salt shaker as you cook. Sprinkle salt with your fingers. With more control, you use less, and it feels professional.
HOT FOOD, HOT PLATE. COLD FOOD, COLD PLATE.
If you should over-salt something, counter it with acid tastes like orange, lemon juice, or vinegar. Your taste buds will be tricked to go in new and acceptable directions.
Sure it’s great to assemble and plate the food in your kitchen, but dining Provence style, where everyone helps themselves at the table, is a lot of sociable fun.
A quick meatball? Squeeze out the insides of a sausage, shape it and fry it up. It’s already seasoned.
TO KEEP YOUR CELERY FRESH, CHOP IT FROM THE BOTTOM AND STAND IT IN WATER. Always pat-dry meat, poultry or fish before you cook it. If you don’t, the moisture will mix with the oil in your pan and you’ll end up poaching your food. Preheat your skillet or frying pan to a medium-high temperature and add oil to avoid sticking.
And, in no particular order of importance, I noted these gems: Start cooking vegetables that grow below the ground — potatoes, carrots, parsnips etc. — with cold water. Above ground — cauliflower, broccoli, spinach — with hot water.
You may cook your pasta al dente, but by the time you add the seasonings and the sauces, it is rarely served el dente. No big deal.
Have a hard time removing air from a Ziploc bag before you seal your leftovers? Do what the fishermen do. Lower the bag and its contents into water and the air will be expelled. Then seal it.
Something catches fire on your stove? Immediately turn off the hood fan. The fan draws fire into the hood, which is probably loaded with grease. And don’t waste any time calling for help!
Unless it’s a pastry dish, when it’s essential to have precision in quantities and method, use recipes only as guidelines.
DEEP-FRYING? IF THE FAT IS SMOKING, IT’S TOO HOT. IF IT BUBBLES AROUND A WOODEN SPOON HANDLE, IT’S JUST RIGHT.
Don’t fry bacon in a pan. Place it on a cooling rack in a tray and cook it in the oven. You’ll have lovely crisp bacon that’s a lot healthier than pan-fried.
ALWAYS TASTE WHAT YOU’RE COOKING, AND BE GENEROUS IN YOUR TASTING. THEN ADJUST TO MAKE IT PERFECT.
After you’ve scraped the ginger, put it in the freezer, then grate what you need while it’s still frozen.
Don’t use a knife to peel ginger, scrape it with a spoon. Put the trimmings into some cheap white wine vinegar. It will infuse into an exquisite ginger vinegar that will taste like $25 a bottle.
Vinaigrette doesn’t necessarily mean vinegar. It combines oil and an acid, like vinegar or lemon juice. Make up a batch in a jar, using three parts oil and one part acid. When you need to use some, give it a shake to emulsify it.
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WE EAT WITH OUR EYES. MAKE SURE THE PRESENTATION SIDE OF YOUR STEAK, OR WHATEVER, GOES INTO THE PAN FIRST. The only reason you sear Consider using Greek-style yogurt instead of mayo or sour cream in some of your recipes. And next time you’re making stuffing, add some smoked oysters!
Despite the cooking shows, you don’t need extra virgin olive oil for everything you do. Canola has many a steak is to give it colour. uses. Or grapeseed oil, Nothing else. And get rid of your which has a Teflon-coated pans. There’s no neutral taste. Teflon in the school. It can’t take high heat when it’s required. Constantly lift and turn a steak as it cooks. Want medium rare? Pinch your ear lobe or the side of your nostril. That’s the feel of medium rare. (You may wish to Google the Mailard Effect, a fascinating observation about how things cook.)
In your kitchen, mistakes are OK. The first lava cake was a mistake you may wish to repeat. Place a chocolate truffle in the middle of your chocolate cake mixture, and bake. The chocolate will melt. Voila, lava cake!
SERVES 4
Chef says this recipe uses the ginger trick — peel with a spoon, freeze, and then grate — and is full of flavour, encouraging home cooks to try new ingredients. A good produce department will stock jicama.
2 pieces albacore tuna (each approx. 150 g) Canola oil Olive oil 60 g pea shoots 1 tbsp sesame oil 1 tbsp rice vinegar
For the jicama salad: 100 g jicama, julienned 1 tbsp fish sauce 1 tbsp rice vinegar 1 small stem ginger (peeled and grated) 1 tbsp sesame oil 1 tsp sesame seeds Olive oil, to taste Cilantro, to taste
1. Season the tuna with salt and pepper. 2. In a very hot pan with a touch of canola oil, pan-sear the tuna pieces on all 4 sides until browned but still rare inside (approx. 30 seconds a side). 3. Cut into medallions and brush olive oil on top of each medallion to provide a shine. 4. Season the pea shoots with salt, pepper, rice vinegar and sesame oil. 5. Peel the jicama and cut into very small julienne strips (small matchstick size). 6. Season with salt, pepper and mix with the rest of the ingredients to taste (ginger, rice vinegar, sesame seeds, cilantro, olive oil, sesame oil).
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YOU’VE HEARD ABOUT THE FIVE-SECOND RULE. IT PROBABLY APPLIES. TEN SECONDS IF IT’S SOMETHING REALLY EXPENSIVE!
seared albacore tuna with pea shoots & jicama salad
chocolate SERVES 4
Originally this was an under-cooked chocolate cake that required perfect temperature and timing. This recipe, however, uses a truffle to make the lava so the batter can be made ahead of time, kept frozen, pre-baked and reheated or cooked to order. A secret revealed.
For the dough: 135 g soft butter 135 g white sugar 2 whole eggs 90 g all purpose flour 60 g cocoa powder (sifted)
For the filling (ganache): 100 ml cream 180 g semisweet chocolate 1 oz brandy
Dough:
1. Cream butter & sugar until creamy. Add eggs slowly followed by flour and cocoa powder.
Filling:
1. Boil the cream. Pour onto the semisweet chocolate and mix very well with a wooden spoon. Add the brandy and keep in cooler for about 30 minutes. 2. Butter muffin tin (small size only). Using a piping bag, fill up half way with the dough. 3. Place 10 g of ganache filling right in the middle. Top with the dough to 3/4 of the muffin tin. 4. Place in pre-heated oven at 350˚F for 12 to 15 minutes until the top of the cake starts to crack.
lava cake If you buy big quantities of potatoes, don’t store them with onions. In short order, the potatoes will start sprouting.
FOR FLAVOUR AND FRESHNESS IN YOUR SPICES, ACTIVATE YOUR PESTLE AND MORTAR
Eggs? There are other ways to do it, but Chef Julian says tap the egg on a flat surface to break the shell. This way the membrane of the egg will not be immediately broken, and egg pieces—possibly soiled—won’t fall into your mix or pan. If a piece of shell should end up in your mix, remove it with an egg half. It will pick up the piece like a magnet. When separating whites and yolks, let the white drip through your fingers. There are other ways, and some fancy devices, but hey, you’re a chef! Steels don’t sharpen knives; they simply re-align the ‘teeth’ on the knife’s edge. If you don’t have a stone to sharpen your knives, a cheap plate with an exposed rim at the bottom can be used. Never put your prized knives in the dishwasher. The detergent will pit the blade.
Throw away that garlic press with the little holes. Crush the garlic to remove the outer shell and expose the naked clove. Then add salt to release the oil, and spread the clove with the side of a knife. And don’t buy garlic that’s sprouting.
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smoked trout
rillette with endive and blue cheese salad SERVES 6
Says Chef Julian: “A little bundle of smoked salmon and trout that truly looks elegant, and is an excellent app.”
easy easy pasta dough
For the rillette:
For the salad:
4 fresh trout fillets with skin on 400 g smoked salmon, thinly sliced ⅓ cup crème fraîche or sour cream 1 tbsp tarragon, finely chopped 1 tbsp chive, finely chopped 1 lemon, zest and juice
2 85 2 1 1 1
endive spears per rillette g blue cheese tbsp olive oil tbsp Dijon mustard tbsp honey lemon, juiced
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Sprinkle a little water on to a parchment-lined baking sheet. 3. Place trout fillet, skin side down, on baking sheet. Season with salt and white pepper. Bake until trout is opaque in centre, about 7 minutes.
4. Cool. Remove skin from trout and flake into a bowl. Combine flaked trout with crème fraîche, chopped herbs, lemon juice, and zest.
SERVES 4
5. Blend ingredients with spatula (I prefer to use my hands) just until a
Chef Julian Bond says that this is a foolproof recipe for pasta. It calls for regular flour — and the use of a food processor makes mixing it a breeze.
6. Line a medium-sized ramekin with leaves of smoked salmon. 7. Fill the ramekin with the trout mixture and fold over the excess
250 3 4 1 1 50
g flour pinches salt egg yolks egg tbsp olive oil ml water
coarse paste forms (do not over process).
smoked salmon to form a tight parcel. 8. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour (can be stored for up to 2 days).
Salad: Combine olive oil, mustard, honey and lemon in a bowl. Slice
endive into fine shards and add to the dressing along with the cheese. (Poplar Grove Tiger Blue is my favourite). To serve, turn rillette carefully out of the ramekin. Dress with endive salad, drizzle with excess dressing.
1. In a food processor, place flour, salt,
egg yolks, egg. Using the pulse button, blend mixture to the consistency of cornmeal. 2. Slowly add the water and olive oil and mix but do not allow the mixture to turn into a ball. 3. Turn on to a counter and knead until smooth (approx. 4 minutes). Wrap and rest in the refrigerator for 20 minutes. Roll out and use as required.
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We tend to think that a cutting board used for meat or poultry needs a really good scrub, but used for potatoes or other vegetables, just a cursory wipe. Not so. Beware of cross contamination. Both need equal cleaning. To stop your cutting board from sliding around, place it on shelf liner.
BROWN SUGAR GONE HARD? ZAP IT FOR 10 SECONDS IN YOUR MICROWAVE. Simulate a barbecue in your kitchen with a ridged, cast-iron grill pan. The ridges will keep your steak off the bottom of the pan, but it will have some professionallooking stripes, made by the high heat of the pan. •
spring is here\\
AFTER A LONG WINTER OF ICE STORMS AND FREEZING TEMPERATURES, SPRING IS HERE! I am looking forward to not only shedding my heavy outerwear but also those extra pounds I seem to have accumulated. Perhaps more fish rather than heavy stews and roasts should be on my menu (see page 13). For me, one of the most appealing aspects of spring is watching those little shoots and buds appear in the garden. I am definitely thinking green, and what wine comes to my mind that is light and delicious? Portugal’s Vinho Verde of course. By the way, it doesn’t mean the wine is green but refers to it as being young. It is released within three to six month after harvest. And I love that it can range anywhere from 8 percent to 11.5 percent alcohol. Although you may find many of their Alvarinhos are just a little above that percentage. I realize your first thoughts when I mention Portugal are often their great Ports or reds, but Vinho Verde has finally come of age here in Canada and is becoming more popular than ever. It’s not just for sipping in the summer. These wines are great matches for gastronomy that feature lots of spices, grilled fish and seafood, roasted red peppers or spicy chorizo sausage. Move over Gewürztraminer; Vinho Verde makes for a perfect marriage with Japanese and Chinese dishes. This region hugs the Atlantic coast, running north from the city of Porto, extending way up to the Spanish border of Galicia. It occupies a roughly rectangular area 50 km wide and 100 km in length — Portugal’s northernmost region. Minho is just a 90-minute drive north from Oporto and is definitely worth a visit. Enjoy its vineyards, delicious food and wine, beautiful scenery
MATTER OF TASTE
BY SHEILA SWERLING-PURITT
and best of all, friendly people. The area of Vinho Verde is one of the largest appellations in Europe and is the home of numerous indigenous grapes, such as Trajadura, Azal, Paderna and Avesso. This is where the Alvarinho grape is king and the Loureiro grape blends are absolutely food-friendly. You will receive great value when purchasing their wines, and best of all they are so inexpensive! Please always chill before drinking.
ALIANÇA ($8.95)
Off-dry; good acidity, slight spritzy citrus finish.
QUINTA DA AVELEDA ($9.95)
Hints of tropical fruit and flowers on the palate; focused and refreshing.
GATÃO ($10.05)
Petillance up front; dry, light and refreshing crispness on the finish.
GAZELA ($8.95)
Some tiny fizz at the front of the palate, which is followed by a sharp tartness consisting of lemon and lime. Smooth, creamy mouthfeel.
MORGADIO DA TORRE ($17.95)
Alvarinho. Elegant, with excellent acidity finely integrated into the complex body of the wine, mineral and citrus flavours. Great mouthfeel and a lingering finish. •
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paris by mouth\\
WHEN IT COMES TO FOOD AND WINE TOURS, I AM ADMITTEDLY A CYNIC. I cringe when I see travel companies promoting food tours and, worse than that, wine tours, which promise little more than superficial, touristy visits with little substance or insight beyond what you can read in a marketing pamphlet. Even newspapers, in an attempt to generate alternate forms of revenue, have taken to offering food tours (at exorbitant prices) led by staff-writers-turned-food-writers. The problem is that many of the writers neither possess significant food knowledge/expertise nor have they ever before travelled to the majority of destinations to which they are supposedly guiding their participants. It is a disrespectful money grab to which too many individuals are falling prey. However, there are reputable people hosting amazing wine and food tours that provide an insightful and substantive look at the culinary cultures of communities around the world. One such organization is Paris by Mouth. Starting as a food blog by a transplanted American living in the French capital, Paris by Mouth has become the authority on the city’s local culinary scene. Arriving in Paris last fall, and in order to avoid jet lag, we decided to take a Paris by Mouth walking tour of the Latin Quarter that afternoon. I fully expected it to be a superficial, touristy look at the neighbourhood, but a good way to stay awake and get on Paris time. The experience, led by Paris by
50 // April 2014
DAVINE
BY GURVINDER BHATIA
Mouth founder Meg Zimbeck, was a surprising look at the best (as opposed to the best-known) small, family-owned, local spots in the area, thus providing us with a true experience of the local culinary culture. Zimbeck grew up in Kansas, but has been living in Paris for almost a decade. She writes about food in Paris for numerous publications, including the Wall Street Journal, Food & Wine and Saveur. I had the chance to spend some time chatting with Zimbeck and expressed my pleasant surprise at the nature of the tours (we also took a walking/tasting tour of unconventional wine bars), which were interesting, informative and entertaining, regardless of the individual’s level of food and wine knowledge. Zimbeck is doing it right. She is honest and sincere, and has immersed herself in the local culinary scene. Even the locals consider her a go-to source. If you are a food and wine lover in Paris, check out parisbymouth.com, but better yet, check out one of her delicious and insightful walking tours. Here are some of the spots we were led to.
CACAO ET MACARONS BY GRÉGORY RENARD
This tiny shop is small-scale and intimate, which is good for the macarons. Most people think Ladurée or Pierre Hermé when they think of quality macarons, but Grégory Renard is
unquestionably the king. His macarons are tender with a great purity of flavour and an unmatched texture. And they are neither powdery nor cloyingly sweet. Consume them immediately as, even after 24 hours, there will be a change in texture (sad if your intent is to bring some home with you). My favourites among the variety of flavours were the cassis et violette, chocolate and sea salt and the café and salted butter caramel.
BOUCHERIE (BUTCHER SHOP) ON THE RUE MOUFFETARD
A traditional butcher and charcuterie shop carrying classic cuts of meats, charcuterie, pâtés and terrines — including Rosette de Lyon (salami-like dried sausage), a terrine with chicken and tarragon, and a pâté of duck with girolle (chanterelle) mushrooms.
MOCOCHA
Lovely chocolate shop run by Marie-Hélène Gantois features chocolate from Fabrice Gillotte and Jacques Bellanger (two Meilleur Ouvrier de France [MOF] awarded chocolatiers), in addition to Patrice Chapon, a Parisian who has twice won the prize for the Best Chocolate in Paris at the annual Salon du Chocolat. Delicious were the chocolate with Burgundy raspberry from Gillotte, the pistachio praline with smoked salt from Chapon, and particularly, a ganache of pure Criollo from Bellanger.
LA FONTAINE AUX VINS
This charming little wine shop specializes in small-production growers’ wines from throughout France, so you won’t see many of the large commercial winery names you may be familiar with. The staff were knowledgeable and very helpful. Their recommendations were spot on.
FROMAGERIE ANDROUET
This mouth-watering cheese shop has been selecting, ripening and selling incredible cheeses for more than 100 years. We sampled many, including Rove de Garrigues (goat, Provence, aged one to two weeks) with its lemony fresh acidity and woodsy, herbaceous flavour due to the goats’ diet of wild thyme and other wild herbs; Claousou (sheep, Lozère, aged one month), which was creamy and delicate; Bethmale du chèvre (goat, Pyrénées, aged eight months), created in the Pyrenees and then transferred at three months to a special aging cellar in the Auvergne (central) region to be ripened by Androuet inside an old train tunnel; Beaufort d’Alpage (cow, Rhône-Alpes, aged five to 18 months) made only from milk from cows grazing at the highest summer altitudes with the most rich and varied diet — the resulting milk is sweet, nutty, aromatic and complex; and a Roquefort (sheep, Midi-Pyrénées, aged 14 months) that was aged specially by Androuet — beautifully complex with intense, rich flavour and a buttery texture with no harshness whatsoever.
SEPTIME CAVE
This is a wine bar by Bertrand Grébaut, chef of the highly regarded Septime restaurant. We were treated to a wonderfully interesting tasting of sustainably produced craft wines, including Domaine Belluard Vin de Savoie “Mont Blanc” 2008, a biodynamic sparkling Gringet; the vibrant and racy Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc “Perennis” 2011; and a stunning Champagne, Domaine Jacques Lassaigne “Les Vignes de Montgueux” NV, which was pure and vibrant with bracing acidity and a lovely minerality. As is often the case with shops dealing with small, local producers, Jacques Lassaigne dropped by to deliver an order to the shop, so we had the opportunity to taste with the man himself.
CRU ET DECOUVERTES
A seemingly haphazardly stocked wine shop, it was opened a decade ago by Mikael Lemasle, focusing on natural wine producers including Benoît Camus, Philippe Jambon and La Ferme des 7 Lunes, to name but a few. Very interesting was the side-by-side comparative of the La Ferme des 7 Lunes Saint Joseph 2011 with the La Ferme des 7 Lunes Saint Joseph “Chemin Faisant” 2011, which sees no addition of sulphur at bottling. The differences were remarkably obvious. The regular Saint Joseph was tart with black olive and fresh blackberry flavours, while the “Chemin Faisant” had more depth, complexity and expression.
LE SIFFLEUR DE BALLONS
A very popular and bustling neighbourhood natural wine bar by sommelier and restaurateur Thierry Brumeau, who also owns the L’Ebauchoir bistro across the street. •
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//the food notes 90 NIEPOORT DIALOGO BRANCO 2011, DOURO, PORTUGAL ($20) I’m not sure what’s more wacky — the label’s cartoon characters, or this blend’s 6 grape varieties: Codega do Larinho, Rabigato, Gouveio, Dona Branca, Viosinho and Bical. Sports fresh floral aromas with herbal hints. Dry and lively up-front, with a rich, spiced-fruit mid-palate and wet stone finish. A lingering salty tang is poised for seafood. (HH)
90 KATNOOK ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010, COONAWARRA, AUSTRALIA ($29.95) The telltale scent of Coonawarra eucalyptus meshes together with plum, blackberry, anise, graphite and cocoa. Medium to full body; there is a solid mid-palate and excellent length. Drink this elegant wine over the next 5 years with a nice piece of steak with a good char. (ES)
88 Fratelli Corsi Sangiovese di Toscana 2010, IGT, Italy ($10)
89 LAKE SONOMA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010, ALEXANDER VALLEY, UNITED STATES ($27)
Medium-deep browning garnet. Rich plum, liquorice and leather aromas. Full-bodied with bright acidity and flavours of ripe cranberries. Little left by way of tannins; drink now. Perfect match with chicken cacciatore with lots of onions, garlic and tangy tomatoes. (RL)*
Co-owned by BC’s Quails’ Gate winery, this is their followup project to their Napa’s Plume. Spot-on Alexander Valley Cab Sauv style. Fresh and spicy, with juicy plum, cassis, anise and dark chocolate. Firm, well-integrated tannins. Balanced finish with cedar and vanilla. A reliable pairing partner to meat and potatoes. (HH)
Bayerische Staatsbrauerei Weihenstephan Weihenstephaner Vitus, Germany ($3–$5/500 ml)
A treasure of a beer, Vitus took home the title of World’s Best Beer in the 2011 World Beer Awards. One-part wheat beer and one-part strong, malty lager (or bock), this 7.7% ABV classic has enough warmth to see you through the spring melt. Its malty backbone lends notes of chocolate and rye bread, while the wheat brings bubblegum, clove and a fluffy mouthfeel. Try it with classic German fare like barbecued pork or sausage and sauerkraut. (CL)
89 Catherine et Claude Maréchal Bourgogne Cuvée “Gravel” 2010, Burgundy, France ($27)
Light ruby. Expressive nose of red fruits, fruit stones, earthy notes and a touch of cinnamon. Light to medium body, fresh acidity and fruity taste. Tight finish of good length. A fine glass of generic Burgundy that will match well with charcuterie, soft cheeses or a salmon steak on the grill. (GBQc)
88 Jackson-Triggs Reserve Viognier 2012, Okanagan ($14)
It definitely exudes that orangey Viognier character, supported by honeysuckle and peach. Refreshing zestiness on the front palate, but with a satisfyingly soft buttery finish. Imminently quaffable on its own, but delicious with a blood-orange and avocado green salad, or saffronbased dishes too. (HH)
52 // April 2014
BOUQUET GARNI
to my health\\
HIS NAME IS BILL. He is six feet tall, all broad shoulders and ripped abs. And I love him. No, wait a minute, I hate him. Um, on second thought, I’m pretty sure I love him. Bill is my trainer. Or I should say was my trainer. Past tense. I lasted about four sessions before I ran screaming from the gym. But I have to admit working with Bill was a good learning experience. I learned that flipping a tire is easy as long as the tire comes from a Matchbox car. That doing a series of burpees does not mean lying on my mat burping. That singing the Rocky song while fumbling through a jump-rope routine is frowned upon since nobody in the gym was even alive when that movie was in theatres. And finally, I learned the hard truth about myself: that my only motivation to exercise is my ever-growing wardrobe of cute workout clothes. Truth be told, I was not cut out for a hardcore fat-shedding, muscle-shredding workout. What I know instead is that a slow and carefree jaunt on a treadmill in front of a TV with my iPod blasting Calvin Harris into my ears does my heart and my soul some good. Will I cut back on the butter and cream? Maybe a little. Will I forever be in love with Bill? Not if my friend Kim has anything to say about it, since Bill is her fiancé. Will I hit the gym from time to time? No doubt about it. I mean, where else am I going to show off my fabulous Lululemon gear?
GOOD MORNING BANANA SMOOTHIE I’m sure the best smoothies are healthful concoctions sans sugar or fat. But the ones I make are just a bit more over the top. Whenever I have bananas that are a little too brown, I pop them in the freezer. They are great for smoothies as well as banana cake, ice cream and bread. If using frozen bananas, cut back on the amount of ice. Use a meat tenderizer to hammer the ice cubes a bit before adding, unless your blender has a powerful motor.
+ Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on quench.me
BY NANCY JOHNSON
2 2 2 2
1/2
bananas, peeled and sliced cups milk cups crushed ice cubes tbsp brown sugar or maple syrup tsp vanilla
Mix ingredients in a blender.
CHICKEN AND APPLE SAUSAGE Whether served at breakfast, lunch or dinner, these chicken patties are a nice change of pace from regular fatty pork sausage. Mix lightly for tender results.
1 1
lb ground chicken McIntosh or Gala apple, peeled and grated 1/2 cup minced red onion, sautéed until softened 1 tbsp brown sugar 1 tsp dried parsley 1 tsp kosher salt 1/2 tsp black pepper Pinch cayenne pepper 1 tbsp olive oil
1. In a medium bowl, mix chicken, apple, onion, brown sugar, parsley, salt, black pepper and cayenne pepper.
2. Shape into four 1-inch-thick patties. 3. Heat oil in a large skillet, over medium heat. Add patties;
cook until browned on one side, about 4 minutes. Turn patty, cover skillet and cook until no longer pink in centre, about 7 more minutes. …… Serve with fried eggs, rye toast and dry Prosecco garnished with blood orange slices.
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HALIBUT WITH MUSTARD CREAM SAUCE SERVES 4
Halibut is a delicately flavoured, nutritious fish, available year-round. If you do not have Herbes de Provence on hand, use dried thyme instead. The sauce can also be made with a grainy Dijon.
4 1/4
halibut fillets, defrosted if frozen tsp Herbes de Provence 1/4 cup Dijon mustard 1/2 cup low-fat sour cream 1-2 tbsp milk Several sprigs fresh thyme
1. Preheat broiler. Coat broiler pan with cooking spray. Pat fish dry and place on pan. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and Herbes de Provence. 2. Broil 4 inches from heat for about 10 minutes or until fish flakes easily with a fork. 3. In small bowl, mix mustard and sour cream. Add milk to thin sauce slightly. 4. Place fish on a platter. Spoon sauce over fish, reserving some to pass out at the dinner table. Garnish with thyme sprigs. …… Delicious with Chablis.
SESAME PEANUT NOODLES
VEGGIE RISOTTO
SERVES 4
SERVES 4
A bowl of cold whole-wheat noodles with vegetables makes a satisfying lunch or quick dinner and is loaded with good-for-you nutrients.
Not a vegetarian dish because of the addition of chicken broth and prosciutto, but brimming with healthful asparagus and spinach. Risotto seems fussy because you have to stand nearby, adding broth and stirring as needed. I usually call a friend and chat while I’m stirring. It makes the time fly by.
250 1/2 4 4 1 2 1 1 1/2 1/4 1/2 1 3 2 2
g whole-wheat spaghetti cup pasta cooking water tbsp peanut butter tbsp reduced-sodium soy sauce tbsp honey tbsp rice vinegar tbsp dark sesame oil clove garlic, peeled and pressed tsp salt tsp cayenne pepper cup shredded carrots red bell pepper, thinly sliced scallions, chopped tbsp toasted sesame seeds tbsp minced fresh cilantro
1. Cook spaghetti according to package directions, reserving 1/2 cup cooking water. 2. In food processor, combine peanut butter, soy sauce, honey, vinegar, sesame oil, garlic, salt and cayenne pepper. Process until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl. Whisk in reserved cooking water. 3. Add spaghetti, carrots, red pepper and scallions. Garnish with sesame seeds and cilantro. …… An Australian Sémillon/Sauvignon Blanc pairs nicely with the noodles.
54 // April 2014
6 2 4 1 2 2 1 1/2 1/2 2 1/2
cups low-sodium chicken broth tbsp olive oil, divided slices prosciutto, chopped bunch aspagarus, cut into 1/2-inch pieces large shallots, peeled and minced cloves garlic, peeled and minced cups Arborio rice cup dry white wine cups fresh spinach cup shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more on the side
1. In a large saucepan, simmer the broth over medium heat. Keep hot.
2. In 1 tbsp olive oil, in large skillet, sauté prosciutto until crisp. Remove and set aside.
3. Add asparagus to skillet. Sauté until tender, about 5
minutes; remove and set aside. 4. Add remaining oil to skillet. Sauté shallots and garlic until softened. Stir in rice. Sauté 1 minute, stirring to coat rice with oil. 5. Add wine and stir until absorbed, about 2 minutes. Add 1/2 cup broth to pan, simmer and stir frequently until nearly absorbed. Add another 1/2 cup of broth, repeating process until all broth is absorbed and rice is tender, about 40 to 45 minutes.
SLOW AND STEADY WINS THE RACE WITH A RISOTTO. DON’T RUSH IT BY UPPING THE HEAT.
6. Stir in asparagus and spinach. Heat through. Stir in Parmigia-
no-Reggiano. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with prosciutto. Serve with additional Parmigiano-Reggiano on the side. …… Pinot Gris is a good accompaniment for the risotto.
CURRIED PORK CHOPS
CHICKEN RASPBERRY SALAD WITH APRICOT DRESSING Take advantage of spring’s crop of raspberries with this light and easy dish. The salad ingredients are not an exact science. Add or subtract items to your taste. You may also substitute a rotisserie chicken for the chicken fillets.
SERVES 4
Some shy away from pork when dieting, but it’s much leaner than it used to be. This dish adds flavour with sweet-and-savoury curry and chutney.
1 2 1 4
tbsp Madras curry paste tbsp mango chutney tbsp canola oil pork loin chops
1. Preheat broiler. 2. In a small bowl, mix the curry paste, chutney and oil. 3. Place the chops on a broiler pan and season with salt and
pepper. Brush one side with curry mixture. Broil 5 minutes or until pork is browned. Flip chops and brush with curry mixture. Broil 5 minutes longer. Serve with brown rice or a quinoa pilaf and sautéed zucchini. Watch closely as chops can burn easily. …… Open a California Chardonnay.
1 bag mixed greens with kale or spinach 2-3 chicken fillets, cooked and thinly sliced 1 container raspberries Sliced goat cheese Sliced almonds
For apricot dressing: 2 1 1/2 1 1 1/4
tbsp apricot preserves tbsp red wine vinegar tbsp honey tsp Dijon mustard cup extra virgin olive oil
1. Make dressing: in a small bowl, mix preserves, vinegar, honey, mustard, salt and pepper. Whisk in olive oil.
2. Arrange greens on platter. Top with chicken, raspberries, goat cheese and almonds. Pass dressing. …… This dish works well with a late harvest Riesling.•
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the mav notes\\ 90 CHAPEL HILL BUSH VINE GRENACHE 2011, MCLAREN VALE, AUSTRALIA ($24.95)
93 LE CLOS JORDANNE LE GRAND CLOS PINOT NOIR 2011, NIAGARA ($70) The nose shows highly extracted black cherry, juicy raspberry, boysenberry, mocha spice and wet stone minerality. It is very structured and needs time to fully show its stuff but still reveals concentrated fruit flavours on the palate, firm tannic structure, dry extract, racy acidity, oak spice and minerals. (RV)
It is my belief that Grenache is Australia’s most underappreciated red grape. This full-bodied version dishes out cherry jam, raspberry, plum, garrigue, black pepper, violets and earth. The palate is concentrated with a long finish and suave tannins. In essence, this is a hugely gulpable wine! Drink until 2018. (ES)
92 Norton Quorum II, Mendoza, Argentina ($48.99)
The name derives from the fact that the wine is a blend of Malbec from the 2003 vintage with Petit Verdot (2007) and Tannat (2008). Complex, developed, fleshy red berry-fruit on the nose with vanilla, cinnamon, a pinch of clove and lightly gamey notes. Intense currant, blackberry and black cherry flavours fill the mouth, backed by firm but approachable tannins and dark chocolate. A hugely structured wine that will reward further keeping. (SW)
89 Devonian Coast Wineries Estate Select Mercator White 2012, Nova Scotia ($22.99)
An interesting blend of Chardonnay with newcomer hybrid Petite Milo. Aromatics reveal minty, herbal-accented green and citrus fruit. Concentrated citrus and green apple flavours share the spotlight on the palate, backed by signature Nova Scotia crisp acidity and solid mineral core. Subtle oak lends mellowness to the finish. (SW)
92 Errazuriz Kai 2010, Aconcagua, Chile ($145)
Errazuriz’s top Carménère is a big boy, and in this vintage, it features blackberry jam, red jalapeños, hickory, violets, pepper, vanilla, earth and cocoa. There is a thick texture, excellent length and lots of round tannins. Drink from 2015 to 2020. (ES)
91 Poderi Colla Tenuta Roncaglie 2008, Barbaresco, Piemonte, Italy ($45)
Garnet with an orange rim. Dried fruits, liquorice and tar with oak perceptible especially in the mouth. Almost supple at first, but turning tight and firm in the middle palate with nice volume and wrapped tannins. It should improve over 10 to 12 years. (GBQc)
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95 BENJAMIN BRIDGE BLANC DE BLANCS 2004, GASPEREAU VALLEY, NOVA SCOTIA ($289.99) After 9 years aging on the lees, this extraordinary wine has developed great finesse. The austere character and high acidity of the ’04 vintage will support further evolution for many years ahead. Depth and complexity on the nose and on the palate match up well with Champagne from a classic vintage. (SW)
MUST TRY
spike it\\
BY JONATHAN SMITHE
SUMMER IS TRULY AROUND THE CORNER. Or at least in my mind. I’m already dreaming of my deck and warm, sun-soaked days. And with that comes a decent amount of pink lemonade. I’ve been working on this recipe for years now. My breakthrough moment came when I found a bottle of Moscato d’Asti. The light shock of residual sugar and effervescence from this smaller cousin of the Asti Spumante adds texture to the lemonade.
SPIKED PINK LEMONADE
2 cups fresh lemon juice (about 12 lemons) 1 1/4 cups sugar 1 1/4 cups water 1 375 ml bottle of Moscato d’Asti 1/2 bag frozen fruit When your are making lemonade, you need to juice your lemons. Concentrate just won’t do. Make a simple syrup by mixing the water and sugar. Add the syrup to the lemon juice and top it up with about 4 cups water. Add the Moscato. Mix it all together and taste to make sure you have the right balance of tart and sweetness. Chill in the fridge and when you are ready to serve, drop in the frozen fruit. This will add another depth of flavour and avoid watering down your precious lemonade. •
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the notes\\ OUR SCORING
SYSTEM
EACH WINE IS JUDGED ON ITS OWN MERITS, in its respective category. Readers should open their palates to compare the relationship between quality and price. We’d also ask you to carefully study the commentaries in order to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board, or its website, for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Evan Saviolidis, Harry Hertscheg, Gurvinder Bhatia, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Tod Stewart, Crystal Luxmore and Jonathan Smithe.
/ARGENTINA / 88 Santa Julia Reserva White Blend 2011, Mendoza ($12.95)
A tasty blend of Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc. Bright straw colour; buttery, nutty, peachy nose; medium-bodied, fresh and dry on the palate with white peach and citrus flavours. Good intensity that lingers and well-priced. (TA)
93 Norton Gernot Langes 2006, Mendoza ($70)
Grapes sourced from Norton’s oldest vineyards have produced this extraordinarily complex developed wine. Elegant and sumptuously rich
58 // April 2014
dark fruit is harmoniously interwoven with a panoply of fine spices in a thick, velvettextured package. Blackcurrant, plum and blackberry combine with spice, dark chocolate and firm but supple tannins on the finish. (SW)
90 Versado Malbec 2012, Lujan de Cuyo ($25.95) Versado is the Argentinian fruit of the Canadian superstar winemaking team of Ann Sperling and Peter Gamble. There is the viscous texture and full-bodied personality of plum, raspberry, dark flowers, blueberry, cinnamon, smoke and cigar box. The tannins will allow cellaring; drink over the next 8 years. (ES)
QUENCH USES THE 100-POINT SCALE 95-100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90-94. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85-89 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80-84. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75-79. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 & under. . . . . . . . . . .
exceptional excellent very good good acceptable below average
* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . available through wine clubs green. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . white & rosé wines red. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . red wines
89 Norton Privada 2010, Mendoza, ($25)
Red and dark fruits come through on the nose together with cinnamon and vanilla oakiness. Concentrated dark berry and blackcurrant are more dominant on the palate with attractively supple tannins, a splash of mocha and dark chocolate on the finish. (SW)
89 Norton Privada Malbec 2009, Mendoza ($34.99)
Subtle spicy scents suggest cinnamon and nutmeg with a trace of savoury herb accenting fleshy red berry-fruit. Seamlessly integrated developed berry and red
currant flavours are augmented with fine spice and dark chocolate in a velvety-smooth texture with an intriguing gamey overtone. (SW)
87 Bodega Norton Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Mendoza ($11)
From the “Varietal Collection” of Norton’s substantial holdings, comes this nice little affordable quaffer. The nose shows blackberry, cherry, plum and light, integrated spices. It’s soft and generous on the palate with cassis and black cherry flavours, subtle smoke and tar all leading to a smooth finish or a simple salt-andpepper-crusted steak. (ES)
+ Find a collection of wine, beer and spirit tasting notes at quench.me/notes/
\
/AUSTRALIA / 89 Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz 2011, Padthaway ($16.95)
A beautiful offering, featuring a menthol, fennel, cherry-blackberry and plum personality. The palate is quite fullish and rich with considerable length and supple tannins. Short-term aging here, so drink over the next 3 years. (ES)
89 Yalumba Old Bush Vine Grenache 2012, Barossa Valley, South Australia ($21.99)
Offers intriguing raspberry, wild berry and herbal aromas, that evolve on the palate towards rich darker fruit with moderate tannic grip, wellintegrated spice and discreet oak on the finish. (SW)
89 Yalumba The Scribbler Cabernet/Shiraz 2010, Barossa Valley, South Australia ($21.99)
Complex nose suggests raspberry, blackcurrant and blackberry with a pinch of cinnamon and clove. Richly rounded cassis and ripe berry flavours are supported by supple tannins with a splash of dark chocolate and spice on the finish. (SW)
87 Wyndham Estate Bin 555 Shiraz 2012, South Eastern Australia ($15)
This crowd-pleaser doles out plum, blackberry, soy sauce and anise flavours on the nose. The palate adds nuances of raspberry and soft tannins. Drink now. (ES)
87 Yalumba The Y Series Shiraz/Viognier 2011, South Australia ($17.99)
Ripe red berry-fruit on the nose
is accented with a light whiff of milk chocolate and peppery spice. Similar ripe berry-fruit and light chocolate themes play through on the velvety textured palate with food-friendly weight, acid balance and moderate alcohol. (SW)
/CANADA / 94 Tawse Estate Robyn’s Block Chardonnay 2011, Niagara ($46)
Firm and well structured with crisp apple, peach and pear flavours complemented by notes of white pepper and citrus, a full texture and a nice minerality on the long finish. Great with pork dishes. (GB)
The nose is focused and finessed with fresh citrus, touches of green apple and quince, wet stone and a floral note that all rise above the subtle oak spices. The crisp and zesty lime-citrus fruit and minerals glide on a razorsharp beam of mouth-watering acidity and light up the palate. This is pure elegance in the mouth, a complex array of generous (but never weighty) fruit flavours that are balanced out by a wisp of spice that builds in intensity through a long, long finish. (RV)
87 Höpler Grüner Veltliner 2011, Burgenland ($17.50)
93 13th Street Grand Cuvée Blanc de Noir 2007, Niagara ($59)
/AUSTRIA / 88 Rabl Grüner Veltliner ‘Spiegel’ 2011, Kamptal ($23)
Medium-deep yellow, the aromas are orange, grapefruit, gooseberry and pineapple. In the mouth it is full-bodied and unexpectedly creamy with a rich mouthfeel matching rich flavours: lemon and apple seasoned with passionfruit. A wine to convert lovers of Sauvignon Blanc. (RL)*
/BRAZIL /
Generous nose of lemon and brioche, green apple and fresh-baked bread with creamy vanilla and toast accents. Built in an austere style with chiselled acidity and a fine mousse that tickles the palate and gives way to fresh apple and lemon flavours. Tertiary notes of warm toast, custard and tangy minerality add to the complexity of this well-built sparkler. (RV)
85 Terra Andina Sparkling Moscato NV, Vale do São Francisco ($16)
93 Benjamin Bridge Brut Reserve 2007, Gaspereau Valley ($74.99)
Lightly fizzy. Definitely sweet, but not surprisingly, “sweet” doesn’t appear on the label. Nevertheless, it’s fresh on the nose and palate, with tangy fruit flavours and a slightly spicy finish. Delicious when turned into a sparkling cocktail with grapefruit juice, tequila and some orange bitters. (HH)
Having spent 5 years on the lees, this wine shows very fine mousse, soft floral notes, suggestions of berry-fruit and bready, leesy overtones. Flavours surge through the mouth with rich toastiness, lemon citrus, subtle berry-fruit, classic terroir-driven minerality and brisk acidity. (SW)
93 Benjamin Bridge Brut Reserve 2007, Gaspereau Valley ($85)
If you have not tasted the remarkable sparkling wines from Benjamin Bridge, you are missing out on some of Canada’s top wines and bubbles, comparable to Champagne’s finest. Delicate yet complex and concentrated, showing citrus peel, toasted brioche and apple; minerally fresh and vibrant with a long, rich, lifted finish. Delicious now, but will develop even more complexity with some years in the cellar. Stunning! (GB)
92 Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2011, Niagara ($40)
The nose is already rockin’ with McIntosh apple, lemon tart, apricot, soft spice and subtle toast and vanilla. It is a substantive Chardonnay on the palate with weight and power, but not at the expense of poise and elegance. The apple-pear fruit melds gorgeously with tropical notes and citrus zest through a lively finish that combines a delicious core of oak and vanilla toast with stony minerality. (RV)
92 Benjamin Bridge Méthode Classique Reserve Brut 2007, Gaspereaux Valley ($75)
Nova Scotia’s Benjamin Bridge continues to produce some of Canada’s most profound bubbles. The ‘07, a combination of 38% Chardonnay, 32% Pinot Noir and 30% Seyval Blanc, exudes a perfume of yeast, toast,
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//the notes liquorice, honey, cherry, green apple and earth. The finale is a combination of cream and toast, which carries long. The bright acidity frames everything quite nicely. (ES)
91 Sperling Vineyards Old Vines Riesling 2011, Okanagan ($34.95)
The combination of biodynamics, old vines and a talented winemaker has created a truly impressive Riesling, that should last a decade, if not more. Huge minerals, peach, grapefruit, honey and petrol are layered on crisp acidity and a superb finish. Pick your preferred preparation of pork and enjoy! (ES)
91 Sperling Vineyards Brut Sparkling 2008, Okanagan ($40)
With 3 years on the lees, this is a dazzling sparkler in Champagne style. Pale straw colour with a nose of warm brioche; medium-bodied, dry, elegant and restrained, it’s fresh on the palate with a lemony finish. (TA)
90 Blue Mountain Pinot Blanc 2012, Okanagan ($17.90)
Pinot Blanc is a variety that BC does very well. Light straw in colour with a peach and citrus nose and a suggestion of oak; medium-bodied, dry, lovely mouthfeel with white peach, green apple and lemon flavours. Good length. (TA)
89 Benjamin Bridge Brut 2009, Nova Scotia ($44.99)
Made with l’Acadie and Seyval Blanc as well as
60 // April 2014
Chardonnay, this one shows fine persistent mousse, gentle floral notes with apple, a trace of citrus and leesy brioche on the nose. More expansive character comes through on the palate with bright green apple, citrus, signature crisp acidity and solid minerality. (SW)
88 Rosewood Süssreserve Riesling 2012, Niagara ($15)
An expressive off-dry Riesling with a nose of lemon-lime and wet-stone minerality. I love the sweet-tart tension on the palate with vivid lime and grapefruit flavours. (RV)
88 Jost Coastal Vineyards White 2012, Nova Scotia ($15.99)
A polished blend showing aromatic fresh green fruit with light floral scents. The theme is carried forward on the palate with citrus and green-apple flavours supported by refreshing acidity and appetizing mineral. (SW)
88 Fielding Estate Viognier Lot S-F 2012, Niagara ($25.95)
Fielding’s 2012 Viognier was crafted in the fashionable “orange wine” style. For the uninitiated, orange wine is a white wine made like a red; the white skins are included with the fermenting juice, providing more depth, flavour, tannins and of course, an orange colour. This rendition serves up a bouquet of fresh-picked peaches and nectarines, cherry pit, apple juice, white flowers and spice. Put a medium chill to this baby and then serve with pork
tenderloin or mahi mahi topped with a spiced fruit salsa. There were only 408 bottles made of this singular wine, so if you are looking for something different, do not miss this opportunity. (ES)
87 Malivoire Ladybug Rosé 2012, Niagara Peninsula ($25)
Bright and fresh with loads of strawberry, cherry, pomegranate, citrus and watermelon aromas and flavours; a fresh, savoury quality, crisp mouthfeel and juicy, clean, relatively dry finish. A blend of Cabernet Franc, Gamay and Pinot Noir. (GB)
86 Jackson-Triggs Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Okanagan ($14)
While Sauv Blancs exude citrusy zippiness in their first year upon release, they mellow and soften with bottle age. This SB delivers some emerging aged character with asparagus notes and a waxy texture, but remains juicy with tasty grapefruit. Drink up this spring with classic pairings like goat cheese or grilled asparagus. (HH)
92 Inniskillin Sparkling Cabernet Franc Icewine 2012, Niagara ($119.95) Yes, the price tag is lofty, but this stickie is an absolute delight to drink. It floods the senses with strawberry jam, cassis, raspberry, cocoa and herbs. Full-bodied on the palate, the fresh acid and lively bubbles leave no sense of heaviness on the long, luscious finish. Blue cheeses and chocolate fondue were made for this wine. (ES)
91 Flat Rock Gravity Pinot Noir 2011, Niagara ($30)
The nose shows generous cran-cherry fruit with a subtle note of earthy goodness and oak spice. It’s pure and delicious on the palate with bright red fruits, ripe tannins, vibrant acidity and good length through the finish. (RV)
87 Cattail Creek Cabernet Merlot 2012, Niagara ($14.95)
This Bordeaux-inspired blend is all about cassis, raspberry, violets, coconut, mint, herbs and spice. Medium-bodied, the palate shows sweet fruit and supple tannins, which bode well for short-term aging. Drink over the next 3 years, preferably with some fennel-laced sausage or a nicely charred steak. (ES)
87 Jackson-Triggs Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Okanagan ($17)
Cab Sauv can be tricky business in northern climes like the Okanagan during a cool vintage like 2011. Herbal aromas and light red berry flavours are present, but there is freshness and a light-footed style that is very food-friendly. Finishes with darker mocha and cocoa notes. Let’s pair this with a retro beef-dip sandwich. (HH)
87 Devonian Coast Wineries Mercator Red 2012, Estate Select, Nova Scotia ($22.99)
Offers complex black cherry, plum and berry-fruit on the nose with background
mocha, earthy herbal and spicy scents. Dark bitter cherry and plum flavours in the mouth compete with still youthful acidity and firm, dry tannic bite mellowed by oaky vanillin and chocolate on the finish. (SW)
86 Jackson-Triggs Reserve Merlot 2011, Okanagan ($15)
Pleasurable plum throughout, while the cool vintage sneaks in some herbal notes on the nose and finish. Straight-up style, but with some welcome cool-climate freshness. The mix of French and American oak aging adds spicy complexity. Perfect for a grilled muffuletta sandwich. (HH)
85 Jost Coastal Vineyards Red 2012, Nova Scotia ($15.99)
Shows dark fruit and a pinch of green herb on the nose with concentrated dark and red fruit in the mouth. Milk chocolate and a hint of mocha are also evident, supported by lightly firm tannins and typically brisk acidity. (SW)
/CHILE / 88 Casa Nueva Vino Espumante Brut 2006, Curicó ($22.67)
Medium-deep yellow; a little shy on bubbles, perhaps because of its age. Aromas of vanilla, rhubarb and flowers. Tastes of apple and pineapple with nice lemony acidity and a long, dry finish. Quite like Spanish cavas, but more fruity. Don’t wait for a special occasion. (RL)*
86 Casa Nueva Unwooded Chardonnay 2011, Curicó ($10.50)
Light gold. Somewhat reticent nose of melon, banana and citrus. Full-bodied with a buttery texture, packed with fruit: melon, peaches, apples. Good balance of acidity and a long finish. (RL)*
92 Errazuriz Syrah La Cumbre 2010, Aconcagua ($51)
This top-tier Syrah from Errazuriz is impressive for its combination of concentration, elegance and personality of blueberry jam, cherries, spice, violets, roasted herbs and cured meats. The tannins will allow it to age for 10 years. Needless to say, it is a full-bodied and delicious offering. (ES)
90 De Martino Legado Syrah Reserva 2011, Choapa Valley ($24)
Beautiful, fresh aromas of plums and violets with flavours of blackberry and cherry, a silky palate with mineral notes; elegant and restrained with great balance, depth and a long, bright finish. (GB)
89 Undurraga Terroir Hunter Carignan 2011, Maule Valley ($30)
Soft, juicy tannins with tasty dark cherry and wild berry-fruit flavours and notes of fresh herbs, mocha and mineral. Look for Carignan to be the next big thing out of Chile. (GB)
88 Errazuriz Max Reserva Syrah 2011, Aconcagua Valley ($18.95)
When I tried this wine at the
winery late last year, I noticed a freshness that was not present in previous renditions. When I questioned the winemaker about this, he informed me that, for the first time, cooler coastal fruit was blended with warmer inland grapes. This has produced a stylish offering with a black-purple colour and a mélange of damson plum, mint, raspberry, blackberry, pepper and liquorice. There is enough depth and tannins to age over the next 4 to 5 years. (ES)
/FRANCE / 94 Fernand & Laurent Pillot Vide-Bourse 2010, Chassagne-Montrachet ($101.95)
White Burgundy doesn’t get any better than this. Pale straw colour with stone fruit and orchard flavours beautifully balanced with oak and citrus acidity. The mouthfeel is just a joy ending with a long, satisfying finish. (TA)
92 Domaine Weinbach Pinot Gris ‘Cuvée Ste-Catherine’ 2010, Alsace ($78)
Vibrant and racy, showing aromas and flavours of stone fruit, citrus peel, white pepper and a touch of smokiness with great acidity on the zesty, mouth-watering finish. Each sip begs another taste. (GB)
91 Domaine Jean Hauller Riesling Grand Cru Muenchberg 2011, Alsace ($20) This is a particularly good bargain considering it’s a
grand cru with a not-so-grand price tag. It’s pure and fresh on the nose with pineapple, citrus and peach-blossom aromas. On the palate look for lovely texture to go peachy-citrus fruit and a touch of smoke and minerality through the finish. Very well balanced. (RV)
91 “S” de Suduiraut 2004, AC Bordeaux ($26)
A dry, Sémillon-based wine from the neighbour of Château d’Yquem. Light gold in colour, it now offers an interesting nose of green apples, honey, dried figs, and caramel and spice from the barrel fermentation. Mediumbodied, it has a silky texture with lots of acidity and flavours of sultanas, but the fruit is fading. Drink up. (RL)*
91 Jean-Marc Brocard Montmains Chablis 2011, Chablis ($30)
Quite rich and fruit-laden for a Chablis, but the chalky/ stony minerality aromas emerge brilliantly from the lemon, grapefruit and green apple notes. Some weight on the palate adds texture but doesn’t stray too far from the roots of the appellation, with lovely chalk and crushed stones coursing through the veins of this modern-style Burgundy. (RV)
91 Château Partarrieu 2008, AC Sauternes ($32) Medium-deep brass colour. Aromas of honey, apricots lactones and acetones from the Noble Rot. Full-bodied and viscous but somehow still fresh tasting; offers flavours of peaches, more apricots and honey. (RL)*
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//the notes 91 Gardet Brut Réserve Champagne NV, Chigny-les-Roses ($75.67/1.5L magnum)
Medium-deep yellow with lots of bubbles. Aromas of citrus, peach and toast. Tastes tangy, yeasty, mouth-watering with flavours of lemon and a touch of guava. (RL)*
90 Domaine de Fenouillet Hautes Combes 2012, Faugères, Languedoc ($18.25)
White Faugères wines are hard to come by; this one is made from Roussanne and Marsanne in equal parts. Pale yellow. The nose has citrus and ripe white fruits with vanilla and butter notes from the 50% fermentation under oak. It shows a nice finesse on the palate, fresh and full at the same time. You can keep it 3 to 5 years easily. (GBQc)
90 Domaine du Chardonnay Montmains Chablis 2011, Chablis ($29) The nose shows soft mineral notes with bright citrus, flowers and sea breeze. It’s made in an austere style with bright acidity that lifts the lemon and lime flavours. A delicious Chablis that screams for oysters on the half-shell. (RV)
89 Pascal Jolivet Sancerre 2012, Loire Valley ($26)
Pale yellow. Sharp nose of citrus, lanolin, a mineral undertone and a delicate grass note developing in the glass. Fresh attack, light body but intense flavour of citrus (grapefruit, lime) lifted by generous acidity. Finish is clean. Ready to drink. (GBQc)
62 // April 2014
88 Cave Vinicole de Hunawihr, Cremant D’Alsace Calixte NV, Alsace ($14.67)
A blend of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Auxerrois, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. Pale gold colour with satisfactory bubbles. Smells of apples and lemon with a bit of buttery brioche. Just slightly sweet, tasting of apples and grapefruit. Would be very popular at parties. (RL)*
88 Bougrier Vouvray 2011, Loire Valley ($19)
Lovely, fresh and floral with apple, citrus peel and ginger spice; easy-drinking, zippy acidity and just a hint of sweetness on the finish. 100% Chenin Blanc. (GB)
87 Ormarine Picpoul de Pinet AOP 2012, Languedoc ($13.30)
Picpoul de Pinet was promoted to the AOP status about a year ago. Very pale. Citrusy nose with white peach and a saline note. Balance is on the acid side for great freshness and vivacity. Light body. Drink now. (GBQc)
87 Léon Beyer Riesling Réserve 2012, Alsace ($18.60)
Very pale yellow. Delicate citrusy nose with apple/pear notes, a stroke of minerality and a hint of tropical fruit. Lively and fresh, round mouthfeel with mineral/ fruity taste. Clean finish of good intensity. Ready to drink with white fish. (GBQc)
86 Lodez Chardonnay/ Viognier (non-vintage), Languedoc ($13)
The nose on this bargain wine displays tropical fruits, citrus
and apple notes. It’s soft yet clean on the palate with upfront apple fruit and a shot of vibrant citrus tang. (RV)
93 Château Belgrave 2010, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux ($43)
Dark ruby. The deep nose of black berry-fruits has finesse; oak is already integrated. Packed with fruity flavours, very smooth texture; harmonious on the palate. Seductive, this is a complete wine. (GBQc)
92 Château Peyros Greenwich 43N 2005, Madiran, Southwest ($29)
90 Andre Aubert Le Devoy 2011, Grignanles-Adhemar ($17)
Aromas of cherry, raspberry and pepper with a touch of dark chocolate, herbs and a little smoke lead to flavours of blackberry, forest floor and a little gaminess. Loads of character with a great approachability and lifted finish. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan. A killer value! (GB)
89 Château Peyros Vieilles Vignes 2008, Madiran, Southwest ($15)
Dark ruby. Black berry-fruits are overshadowed by abundant but good quality oak. Supple at first with tame acidity, but rich, full and compact through the middle palate with nice balance and roundness. (GBQc)
Dark ruby. Black fruits and oak, but still fresh. More than full-bodied; compact with a rich core that remains balanced. Nice round finish, a bit short. 20% Cabernet Franc helps tame the sometimes aggressive Tannat. (GBQc)
91 Domaine de Fenouillet Combe Rouge 2011, Faugères, Languedoc ($18)
89 Château de Ricaud Grand Vin 2010, Cadillac, Bordeaux ($20)
91 Château Haut Selve 2009, Graves, Bordeaux ($21)
87 Roche Bastide Côtes du Rhône 2011, Southern Rhône ($13.95)
Dark ruby, purple rim. Very fruity and pure nose of black berries with a touch of oak. Silky but firm tannic backbone, the smooth texture coats the mouth with its generous fruity flavour. Great acidity too. (GBQc)
Ruby/purple. Ripe, elegant nose of red and black fruits, vanilla, slightly perfumed. Silky texture with a firm core. Nice roundness in the middle palate. Drinks beautifully now and for a few more years. (GBQc)
Ruby/purple. Inviting nose of small black fruits, menthol and perfumed by a light floral touch. Supple and quaffing with its bright, perfectly ripe fruity taste. Nicely balanced, elegant, it drinks well right now. (GBQc)
Ruby colour with a nose of charred oak and cherries; on the palate, sweet cherry with a floral note; soft mouthfeel with enough tannin to shape the wine on the finish. Engaging fruitiness in the mid-palate. (TA)
/GERMANY / 91 Mönchof Robert Eymael Riesling 2011, Mosel ($16.95)
Amazing value here. Very pale lime in colour, this Mosel Riesling has the textbook bouquet of petrol, honey and pear. It offers a light spritz on the palate. Off-dry and beautifully balanced, it fairly dances on the palate. (TA)
/GREECE / 89 Boutari Grande Reserve 2007, Naoussa ($16.95)
A mature Xinomavro. Tawny ruby in colour with a smokyearthy, cherry nose; mediumbodied, dry with an earthy, spicy, dried red-berry flavour; firmly structured with good mid-palate fruit. (TA)
/HUNGARY / 87 Hungaria Grande Cuvée Brut ($12)
Not all bubbly has to cost you an arm and a leg. This value sparkler from Hungary packs a lot of punch for $12. The nose shows bright citrus and apple fruits with lovely toasty-yeasty notes. It provides plenty of pop in the mouth with zesty citrus fruit in a dry and refreshing style. A party pleaser. (RV)
/ITALY / 89 Villa di Maser Asolo Prosecco DOCG NV ($16.83)
Medium-deep yellow with an abundance of fizz.
Predominant aromas are of apples and yeast, with some lemon/lime and a tinge of bubblegum for added interest. On the palate there is grapefruit and melon with tart acidity; a slight flintiness adds interest. (RL)*
92 Palazzo Brunello di Montalcino 2006, Tuscany ($59.95)
A delicious Brunello that’s drinking well now but will reward 3–5 years in the cellar. Ruby colour; rose petal, cherry, spicy oak on the nose; richly extracted, full-bodied with liquorice and cherry flavours. Intense and rich. Still youthful. (TA)
90 Il Clou di Clavesana Dogliani Superiore 2010, Piemonte ($16.95)
Deep ruby colour; floral, white truffle, cherry nose; dry, medium-bodied, velvety mouthfeel with flavours of cherry and red apple. Beautifully made. (TA)
90 Poderi Colla Nebbiolo d’Alba 2010, Piemonte ($20.75)
Garnet tint. Beautiful nose, powerful and spicy with a floral touch. Equally powerful in the mouth with a good acidity level, a narrow, firm middle palate and a very long finish. It will drink happily over the next decade. (GBQc)
90 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale 2009, Chianti ($25) Vintage to vintage, one of my favourite Chiantis. A classic nose of savoury cherry, leafy tobacco, vanilla, cassis, spice and bramble bush. This is delicious on the palate with
juicy red fruits, herbs, tar and spice delivered on bed of smooth and fine tannins. Drink now, or hold for further development. (RV)
89 Clavesana Dolcetto di Dogliani 2011, Piemonte ($15.95)
Deep ruby colour; earthy cherry, coffee grounds on the nose with a light floral note; dry, medium-bodied, black cherry flavour, richly extracted with mellow tannins. (TA)
89 Poderi Colla Bricco del Drago 2008, Langhe, Piemonte ($28)
Dolcetto is blended with 15% Nebbiolo in this dark ruby wine. Black fruits on the nose with spice and tar notes; a hint of salted caramel. Moderately powerful on the palate, if only a bit on the firm side. It will go nicely with venison now or in 7 to 8 years. (GBQc)
88 La Ferla Nero d’Avola 2009, IGT Sicilia ($12.50)
Made from Sicily’s signature indigenous red grape. Medium-deep garnet colour. The nose is of raspberries, cherries and mocha. An appealing, refreshing mouthful of sweet red berries with good balance and a long finish. Not sophisticated, but very tasty. Punches well above its price-weight. Drink early. (RL)*
88 Di Majo Norante Cabernet 2011, Terra degli Osci IGT, Italy ($15.99)
This wine (13%) shows definite Cabernet character but with a local Italian
accent. Black cherry, blackcurrant and light herbal notes come with rounded, supple ripe tannins and an appetizing bitter cherry note on the finish. (SW)
88 Ruffino Chianti Classico Aziano 2011, Chianti ($18)
A nose of cherry, wildberry, currants and spice. A good little food wine with bright acidity, red berries, a touch of liquorice and vanilla with soft tannins. (RV)
/LUXEMBOURG / 88 Bernard-Massard Cuvée de l’Ecusson Pinot Noir Rosé Brut NV, Grevenmacher ($24) We don’t see many wines from Luxembourg in Canada as the majority produced are consumed locally and in neighbouring Germany, France and Belgium. Well balanced with aromas and flavours of black cherry, raspberry and spice, fine bubbles, creamy texture and a bright finish. A great value and great with hors d’oeuvres such as smoked salmon. (GB)
/NEW / ZEALAND 90 Brancott Estate Letter Series B Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Marlborough ($19.95)
A thrillingly crisp Sauvignon. Pale straw with a lime tint; grassy, green fig and elderberry nose; medium-bodied fig and gooseberry flavours; mouth-wateringly dry and elegant with great length. (TA)
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//the notes 90 Cloudy Bay Chardonnay 2010, Marlborough ($29.95)
Cloudy Bay made its name with Sauvignon Blanc, but the winery also produces an exceptional Chardonnay. Medium straw in colour with a hint of lime, it has a Burgundian nose — apple, a touch of barnyard and a spicy oak note; medium-bodied with elegant, apple and green peach flavours, and well integrated toasty oak with lively acidity. (TA)
/PORTUGAL / 89 Dão Sul Cabriz Encruzado 2009, Dão ($18) A highly regarded, full-bodied grape from the Dão. Lots to notice on the nose with its earthy, spicy apricot-skin scent. More fruit-peel savouriness on the palate, with juicy citrus flavour and a very dry, slightly tannic finish. There is a hint of saltiness and intensity that would welcome a plate of grilled sardines or milder white anchovies. (HH)
88 Quinta das Touquinheiras Toucas Alvarinho 2011, Vinho Verde ($25) A very fragrant nose high-
lighting floral, melon and honey. Abundant acidity balances the 15 g/l of residual sugar, giving the palate a medium-dry richness and an apricot flavour, while the finish is spicy and honeyed, yet with a refreshing minerality. A consideration for spicy seafood dishes. (HH)
92 Justino’s 10 Years Old Malvasia Madeira ($42.95)
Deep amber with an olive green rim; a high-toned nose of fig and molasses; medium-bodied, dry, fig-and-cashew flavours with lively acidity and amazingly long finish. (TA)
90 Quinta do Crasto Old Vines Reserva 2009, Douro ($43)
This red blend delivers richness, power and a tannic grip. Features floral, black fruit and vanilla aromas and flavours, brimming with mocha. Satisfyingly complex finish peppered with dark spices and chocolate. The finish is somewhat tight and warm, but cellaring will soften and evolve this wine through 2019. (HH)
88 Campolargo Baga 2010, Bairrada ($30)
Bairrada lies near the Atlantic Ocean south of the Douro River, home of the high-acid and tannic Baga grape, which adapts well to the maritime climate. Red-berried, herbal aromas; lively and lean on a medium body with a rustic, spicy, smoky character. Dry and tannic on the finish with food-friendly minerality and cellar-worthy structure. (HH)
87 Caves São João Reserva 2000, Beiras ($25)
A 50-50 blend of rustic Baga and richer Touriga Nacional. Lots of developed aromas and flavours of game, cedar, dried herbs and leather, along with some fresher floral and plum notes. Finishes with more structure than length. Always fascinating to buy a wine with aged characteristics, as it prompts fascination and conversation. (HH)
/SOUTH / AFRICA 90 Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc
Wine Care Specialists
Strictly Cellars & Accessories
• Wine cellars from 30 to 500 bottles or more • Wine racking and cooling systems • Select wine accessories and stemware
Kelowna, BC 250-448-7225
1-866-396-7225 w w w.strictlycellars.com
64 // April 2014
2011, Stellenbosch ($23)
Full flavoured with apple, melon and spice aromas and flavours with mineral notes, a touch of honey and great vibrancy. Complex with great focus, a beautiful freshness and enough body to stand up to very flavourful and even slightly spicy dishes. (GB)
86 Two Oceans Shiraz 2012, ($10.25)
Light purple colour. Simple nose of cherry with a hint of spice. A bit light in body for a Shiraz, it feels a little bit sweet and warm on the palate with a simple but enjoyable fruity taste. Easy to drink, so don’t wait. (GBQc)
/SPAIN / 93 Lustau Peninsula Solera Reserva Palo Cortado Sherry, Jerez ($18/375 ml)
One of the most interesting sherries I have encountered made in a style that falls between Amontillado and Oloroso. The nose shows complex notes of figs, toasted almonds, biscuit, sweet wild flowers and nougat. It is
perfectly dry on the palate and grows in intensity as the crushed, roasted filberts and hints of citrus zest open up on the palate. (RV)
/UNITED / STATES 89 Lake Sonoma Chardonnay 2012, Russian River Valley ($24)
This sub-appellation focused brand justly captures the ocean-cooled Russian River for their Chard. Fragrant brioche, caramel and tropical fruit. Zesty citrus, kiwi and nectarine flavour, buttery texture and a tangy lime-andvanilla finish. Superb with a burrata salad. (HH)
94 Heitz Cellar Trailside Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Napa ($119.95)
The best argument for why Napa Valley should be growing Cabernet. Dense ruby colour with a floral bouquet replete with crush blackcurrants and sweet vanilla oak. Full-bodied, elegant, beautifully balanced and firmly structured. (TA)
88 Lake Sonoma Zinfandel 2010, Dry Creek Valley ($25)
Dry Creek’s hot days and cool nights make for prime Zin country. A blast of blueberry with a heady fragrance of floral, confection and smokiness. Super juicy palate with sweet tannins. Black fruits, baking spice and chocolate assert themselves to the finish. Surprisingly good with squash ravioli slathered in sage butter. (HH)
/BEER / AND CIDER Microbrasserie Charlevoix Dominus Vobiscum Lupulus, Quebec ($12)
Microbrasserie Charlevoix’s Belgian beer series, Dominus Vobiscum, is mightily impressive — and the Lupulus is a particularly swoon-worthy standout. Generously seasoned with citrusy American hops and a Belgian yeast that adds a spicy depth and backing notes of honeysuckle and lavender, this flavourful, bubbly brew demands to be poured into wine glasses and served alongside Thai or Mexican fare. (CL)
Ontario Beer Company 100 Mile Lager, Ontario ($2.75/473 ml)
Some beer styles travel really well — but easy-drinking, classic lagers? Not so much. That’s why this lager, from the new Ontario Beer Company launched by veteran Ontario brewers Mike Duggan and Brad Clifford, are worth celebrating. Made from all-Ontario ingredients, the lager is crisp, clean and well constructed with a clear, golden body, rigorous carbonation and a lasting, rocky white head. The malty notes of sweet bun and mild honey are dried out by orange peel and grassy hop flavours. Drink with spring salads and light, flaky white fish like sea bass or tilapia. (CL)
Stutz Cider ShipBuilders Cider, Nova Scotia ($2.95/473 ml) Made with a blend of 7 sweet and tart apple varieties from
the Annapolis Valley, this highly carbonated cider carries aromas of sweet apples with a distinct Strub’s Pickles acidic — and this is a very good thing. The aromas carry into the flavours, with a sweet, slightly tart finish. Try this light straw-hued bevy with gouda or medium cheddar, or knock back 1 or 2 of the 5.5% cans on a warm spring day. (CL)
sherried oak, a subtle trace of woodsmoke and banana. Intensely concentrated rich flavours unfold spicy dried fruit, creamy caramel and honeyed citrus, held in balance by good acidity with heady alcoholic warmth creeping up on the finish. A unique and wonderful after-dinner drink that compares favourably to fine old sherry or port. (SW)
Sea Cider Cyser, Vancouver Island, BC ($19/375 ml)
/SPIRITS /
Cysers are a blend of fermented honey and apples into a sweeter, ice wine–like tipple. This light golden offering is still with a slightly syrupy feel. Notes of bee pollen and bruised apple dominate the aroma with flavours of ripe apples, a sweet, dank honey centre and a slightly tannic finish with hints of tree sap and pink grapefruit. Makes a great apéritif. (CL)
Le Castor Brewing Co Grande Reserve Vin No 1, Rigaud, Quebec ($8/660 ml)
A barley wine that hosts a whopping 11% alchool. Aging in Jamacian rum barrels gives it a light nose of candied apples and tropical fruits. Surprisingly soft on the palate with dark fruit and oak notes. What’s not surprising is the burn as it goes down. This organic brew is rustic but worth seeking out. Take out your favourite cigar. (JS)
Tideview Olde Port of Halifax Cider 2007, Nova Scotia ($19.98/500 ml) Refined aromatics reveal complex spiced apple,
Clynelish 14 Years Old Single Malt, Hart Brothers Finest Collection, Cask #16358 ($120/700 ml)
A classy dram from a respected independent bottler sourcing from a highly regarded Northern Highland distillery. The nose shows ginger, sweet malted grain, pear, lemon, new leather, lavender and a bare whiff of sea spray. The palate is complex with mild spice, herbs, citrus and grain mash capped off with an enduring, gently smoky finish. (TS)
de Montal XO Grand Bas-Armagnac ($89/700 ml)
Aged, polished wood, caramel, citrus, almond, fruitcake and marzipan/ vanilla aromas. Warm and slightly earthy in the mouth with notes of plum/prune, toasted nuts and dried fruit with a touch of spice. The finish is long and comforting with a mild woodiness. A complex, meditative elixir. Nice on its own or with a light dessert. (TS)
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a world without wine\\
FINAL WORD
BY TONY ASPLER
made her fall asleep, and when she awoke her headache was gone. She returned to the jar and polished it off. Summoned before Jamsheed to explain her odd, euphoric behaviour she confessed her transgression. Intrigued, the king ordered a quantity of wine be made for the delectation of his entire court. The fabled King Jamsheed is said to have lived a thousand years, which would make his life the earliest testament to the salutary effects of wine consumption.
PICTURE IN YOUR MIND THE OLD JOKE OF A FAT MAN SLIPPING ON A BANANA SKIN. Now substitute a bunch of grapes for the banana skin and you’ll understand how wine was probably invented by a happy accident. Our primordial benefactor who first trod on grapes must have been something of a mystic. Whoever it was had no idea what he had wrought. One small step for man, one giant libation for mankind. Or you might believe that our benefactor was, in fact, a woman. According to an ancient Persian legend, it was a concubine in the harem of the King Jamsheed who first stumbled on wine, literally and figuratively. The king was fond of grapes, and he had them stored in sealed jars so that he could enjoy them year-round. One jar started to ferment and the King had it labelled as “poison.” He ordered it placed in a remote corner of his wine cellar. The concubine, who suffered from migraine headaches, look for the means to put an end to her suffering. She discovered the jar marked “poison” and drank deeply from it. Instead of killing her, the liquid
66 // April 2014
IMAGINE IF THE KNOWLEDGE of fermentation had somehow become lost down the ages and we lived in a world without wine. How dull most dinner parties would be. How uninteresting most foods. No communion wine to celebrate Mass; no Manischewitz at the Passover table. No Champagne breakfasts. No wine writers. I use the term “wine writer” advisedly. I don’t consider myself to be a wine critic, although I sometimes do have some harsh words to say about particular wines. Usually the space accorded to wine writing in newspapers and magazines is limited (except for Quench); and rather than tell readers what is bad, I would prefer to point them in the direction of the good stuff. As a result I would describe myself as a “wine evangelist,” since I would like to turn readers on to the infinite possibilities of the fermented grape. I believe that wine is a unique and health-giving beverage that has afforded more pleasure and enlightenment down the ages than any other substance mankind has ever ingested. Let me put the wine debate in perspective. Whom would you rather dine with: Napoleon Bonaparte, who loved Chambertin, or Adolf Hitler, who was a teetotaller? Beethoven, who called on his deathbed for the wines of the Rhine, or Tchaikovsky, who only drank water and thought his head was falling off? I rest my case. I have reached an age when I don’t really trust someone who says they don’t like wine. But then the only good thing about aging is that you get closer to your IQ. A friend of mine who imports wine into Ontario says he never drinks anything older than he is. “The body,” he contends, “is a solera system. If you put something older into it, you’ll get old. If you put something younger in it, you’ll feel younger.” Maybe I have consumed too many old wines, because nothing gave me greater pleasure than opening a bottle of really old wine — to be specific, a bottle of 1865 Château Margaux. And what joy to find it was not only still drinkable but lip-smackingly delicious. • ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM
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