Quench January/February 2018

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FEBRUARY/ MARCH 2018 23 CHANGING THE STORY MICHAEL PINKUS AS ONE OF THE TOP 10 WINE-PRODUCING COUNTRIES, IT’S SURPRISING HOW LITTLE WE TALK ABOUT THE WHITE WINES OF SOUTH AFRICA. TILL NOW.

30 DOES BACO GET THE RESPECT IT DESERVES? KONRAD EJBICH THIS GRAPE HAS GOTTEN A LOT OF NEGATIVE PRESS, BUT IS IT TRULY WARRANTED?

16 | RURAL BREWS JORDAN ST. JOHN Prince Edward County has a growing microbrew scene. Now you know.

20 | FRANCIA-LY SPEAKING ANDRE PROULX Sparkling from Franciacorta is punching above its weight class.

26 | JOIN THE CLUB TREVE RING

34 THE CHALLENGES OF EATING SUSTAINABLY, ONE MEAL AT A TIME JOANNE WILL

WE’VE PLACED OUR TRUST IN STORES TO FEED US, AND IN THE PROCESS, WE’VE LOST THE SENSE OF WHERE OUR FOOD COMES FROM.

How did Pinotage, a grape often (and equally) vilified and inappropriately vinified, become South Africa’s signature red?

36 | A WASH IN WHISK(E)Y TOD STEWART Here’s just a wee dram of what’s new in the global whisk(e)y game.

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DEPARTMENTS 42 | THE NOT-SO-MINIMALIST NANCY JOHNSON Trying to pursue a minimalistic lifestyle is not as easy as it sounds.

EDITOR’S NOTE

44 | BUYING GUIDE The best wine, beer and spirits from around the world, critiqued by our expert tasting panel.

64 | NO MORE POINTS GURVINDER BHATIA We explain why we abandoned the 100-point scale for rating wines.

66 | RECORKING A PROBLEM TONY ASPLER Screwcaps are the future! Or is that just yesterday’s arguement?

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EVERY ISSUE BUILDS OFF THE ONE BEFORE IT. NEW EDITORS AND WRITERS ARE INTRODUCED, AND WE ARE PUSHED IN EXCITING DIRECTIONS. We spend a lot of time at Quench trying to deliver on the promise I made over 15 years ago when I started as editor-in-chief.

“We will create an unbiased space filled with great minds, impassioned by the liquid and culinary arts. We will quench not only your minds but also your palates, pushing you to explore the world with zest.”

As we started working on this milestone issue, we realized it needed more than just a light coat of paint. We spent the holiday break working and reworking the pages, and came to a complete redesign — a little of the old mixed in with the new.

Once you are done perusing the issue, turn to page 64 to get a more developed view on our decision to drop the 100-point scale. You might also want to visit our Youtube channel where wine editor Gurvinder Bhatia explains the move further (www.youtube.com/c/quenchmagazine). These are quite exciting times at the magazine and we are proud to keep bringing you all the best food and wine the world has to offer. It’s a tough job, but someone needs to do it.

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WHAT’S YOUR NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTION?

My 2018 (culinary) resolution is to eat more mindfully, considering the health and environmental impacts of my food choices.

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Konrad Ejbich has been writing and broadcasting about the magic of wine for almost four decades. He was a longtime correspondent for Wine Spectator and numerous Canadian publications, but is perhaps best known for his popular phone-in show on CBC-Radio for more than 20 years. He has authored two wine books and is the proud inventor of sparkling Icewine.

WHAT’S YOUR NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTION?

My New Year’s wine resolution for 2018 is to open up more of the older Canadian wines that reside in my cellar, side-by-side with their junior versions, in hopes of learning more about longevity in Canadian wines.

Essentially, to open more bottles, all in the name of research, of course.

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 7

UMAMI LISA HOEKSTRA

IT’S ALL IN THE BOX WHEN GOODFOOD ENTERED THE SCENE IN 2014, THEY DID SO WITH A MISSION: TO CHANGE THE WAY WE APPROACH FOOD. The company’s

subscription meal-kit service operates at the intersection of the Consumer Supported Agriculture (CSA) movement, culinary exploration and subscription box popularity to provide its members with all the locally sourced ingredients they need to create homemade meals, delivered to their door every week.

“The business idea came from more of a personal need,” explains Jonathan Ferrari, Goodfood’s CEO and co-founder.

“I love to cook; I love finding recipes. But, at the time, there was really no option to have anything delivered to your home.

No option to simplify meal planning. I really felt like there was a gap for my own personal needs.”

The native Montrealer studied finance at McGill before starting his career in the investment banking group at RBC. There, he met his business partner, Neil Cuggy.

“We got pretty excited about the changes that we saw happening in the grocery landscape,” Ferrari says. “We have this incredible passion for food … and a pretty serious interest in understanding where our food comes from, and trying to create a more transparent supply chain as well.”

Transparency in the food industry can be seen in the CSA movement, where consumers support local farmers by pre-purchasing a season’s worth of produce-filled boxes directly from the farm and helping farmers financially that season. “We think about Goodfood as CSA 2.0, where we’re not only getting a box of fresh, locally sourced produce, but you have everything else that you need to prepare the dishes. We take it one step further and locally source, for example ... handmade pasta from a family-run artisanal pasta maker,” says Ferrari.

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Their ingredients come from providers in British Columbia, Ontario and Quebec. Ferrari admits they occasionally need to go international to supplement some ingredients during the winter but they do it transparently, so members know when an ingredient is imported.

They’re also focused on nutritional value and culinary exploration. “What Goodfood means for us is food that is tasty and good for you,” explains Ferrari. “We try to make sure there is that balance. We love to help people travel through our dishes ….

It’s exciting for that sense of discovery that comes along with it.”

That discovery also comes from different ways to cook and new ingredients. “If we can help you cook something that you’ve never cooked before, that makes it worth it,” Ferrari says.

“Whether it’s ingredients you’re less familiar with, [or] cooking techniques you’ve never tried, we try to keep it as simple and foolproof as possible. The discovery aspect — it keeps coming back to us as one of the more interesting parts of the service.” ×

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GOOD FOOD NANCY JOHNSON

BEEF BONE BROTH

TO THE BONE There are several good reasons to make a pot of bone broth this winter. First, bone broth is loaded with nutrients — calcium and magnesium, to name a few — reduces joint pain and inflammation, and soothes the digestive system. Second, when it’s cold outside, bone broth is delicious to sip on its own as well as a great starter for sauces, soups and stews. And finally, bone broth takes a good 8 to 10 hours of simmer-time. So, if you’re snowed in on a winter’s day, get out the soup kettle and rattle those bones!

Bone broth is really just a fancy new name for stock.

Some recipes call for a lengthy cook time — 48 hours or more — but I’ve found an 8- to 10-hour simmer yields a savoury stock with rich, concentrated flavours. This recipe features beef, but you can make bone broth with chicken, veal or other bones. Look for beef bones with lots of marrow for the best flavour. Some cooks also add beefy bones like short ribs, but I’m too cheap to do that. The addition of vinegar helps draw out nutrients from the bones.

× SEARCH THROUGH OUR HUGE LIBRARY OF RECIPES ON WWW.QUENCH.ME/RECIPES/

1.75 2 1 1 2 2 4 6 1

kg beef bones carrots, chopped leek, chopped onion, chopped stalks celery, with leaves bay leaves cloves garlic peppercorns tbsp cider vinegar

1. Preheat the oven to 450˚F. 2. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Arrange the bones on the sheet. Roast for 30 minutes. Add the carrots, leek, onion and celery. Roast for 10 minutes longer, or until the vegetables are caramelized.

3. Add 12 cups of water to a stockpot. Add the bones and bring to a boil, skimming off any scum. Boil for about 5 minutes, skimming off scum as needed.

4. Add the vegetables, bay leaves, garlic, peppercorns and cider vinegar. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat, partially cover the stockpot and simmer broth on very low heat for 8 to 10 hours. Stay home and keep an eye on the simmering broth. It’s too cold to go outside anyway.

5. Strain the broth, removing all solids. I tend to strain the broth about 3 times so it’s uber-crystal-clear. Refrigerate in several 2- to 3-cup containers, which will allow the broth to cool safely, bacteria-free. The next day, remove the layer of fat.

Transfer to clean containers and use within 5 days, or freeze up for to 6 months.

6. My favourite way to enjoy bone broth is with some cooked fideo pasta. × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 11

LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC

TAVERN OF THE SEAS Usually when people plan out their visits to South Africa, the biggest attractions on their itinerary are the incredible wineries found in the Western Cape.

However, a lot of people don’t seem to realize there is excellent beer to be had as well.

While brands like Castle Brewery, now owned by AB InBev, once ruled the country with a light, watery fist, South Africa has seen a tremendous growth in breweries over the last seven years or so. What initially started as a few brewers selling at farmers’ markets has now become a growing industry with over 200 breweries in the country.

For the ultimate beer tourism experience, the choice is easy. Of the country’s 200+ breweries, over half are located in the Western Cape, with much of the province’s beer ending up in the capital city of Cape Town. While lagers remain popular in the city’s still-developing beer scene, there are a number of breweries pushing the boundaries and brewing styles with a North American and European influence that inflame a sense of curiosity and adventure for beer lovers.

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Devil’s Peak Brewing is just one example. Since opening in 2012, the brewery has developed some flavourful core brands, including their award-winning flagship King’s Blockhouse IPA, which has a significant kick of citrus and pine. Where Devil’s Peak really gets interesting, however, is when brewmaster JC Steyn makes good use of his background as a winemaker at Signal Hill Winery and Dornier Wine Estates to create some incredible beer/wine hybrids and barrel-aged concoctions.

North America’s love of barrel and sour beers has been a driving influence for Devil’s Peak, and their new Afrofunk sour facility in Epping — the largest barrel-aging program in the country — is definitely turning heads all over the world.

Woodstock Brewery is another favourite for Cape Town residents. Inspired by the US popularity of craft beer, and the growth of those industries in Australia and Korea, the brewery opened with the idea of being one of the heralds of the country’s burgeoning beer scene. Year-round brews like Hazy Days Belgian Wit and Californication American IPA, along with spring seasonal Acid Queen — a kettle-soured beer brewed and conditioned with granadilla — have all proved popular with the locals.

DEVIL’S PEAK BREWER, JC STEYN

It should be said, though, that while international influences are wonderful, brewers have recently been finding inspiration in their own homeland.

“There is more and more talk about using local ingredients too,” says Lucy Corne, a beer writer and author of Beer Safari: A journey through the craft breweries of South Africa. “The Western Cape is home to one of the world’s six floral kingdoms and has lots of endemic plants used by the indigenous hunter-gatherers for medicinal purposes. So, stuff like rooibos, buchu and honeybush are being used along with sorghum, which is a traditional crop here.”

It’s only been a short time for South African beer, but good things are brewing there. And they’ll just get better. ×

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 13

LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO

QUITE A SOBERING THOUGHT Even if few of us follow through on every single New Year’s resolution, it’s still a great time of year to nudge our habits in the direction of moderation. Not every meal needs to be a T-bone. And not every drink has to pack a three-ounce punch.

Problem is, though, a lot of people have gotten used to the taste of potent, spirit-forward cocktails. It’s hard to replace that with a cran soda. But we may not have to endure that for much longer, thanks to a legion of bartenders who are taking on the challenge of creating tasty non-alcoholic cocktails, as well as products for the home consumer, such as Seedlip, the world’s first distilled non-alcoholic “spirit.”

Seedlip is closer to gin or aquavit than whisky, so the first instinct for many of us will be to use it in a mock G&T. But that’s child’s play. We asked Katherine Boushel of Montreal’s Atwater Cocktail Club to explain what it is and help us come up with a more interesting application for this “spirit.”

“I was lucky enough to meet the founder of Seedlip, Ben Branson, at Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans,” says Boushel.

“Since he doesn’t drink, he was frustrated by the lack of good non-alcoholic options at restaurants, so he set out to make his own. You know, something that resembles a classic cocktail with all its complexity but without the alcohol.”

Boushel explains that Seedlip comes in two flavours, Garden 108 and Spice 94, which are, as you would expect, herbaceous and spicy, respectively. Its success in the United Kingdom, where it was first launched, is the stuff of legend (the third release sold out in under an hour). It’s got a good following in Canada, too, following a fall release. It’s even on the back bar at a few cocktail joints these days, in response to bartender enthusiasm for interesting alternatives to the much-derided mocktail. “I think the Fairmont Queen Elizabeth Nacarat has it behind the bar,” Boushel says.

She notes that customer demand for this type of drink is definitely on the rise. “Last night, I had a table of three, and two of them were just drinking non-alcoholic drinks,” says Bushel.

“And sometimes it’s just that it’s the end of the night and you want to join in on one last round but you know you shouldn’t.”

Add to this pregnancy, religion and driving, plus personal and health reasons, and it’s easy to see that bars have been making a mistake by not paying more attention to this burgeoning market. Especially in months like January and February, when even the most enthusiastic drinkers often take a break. Boushel points out that there are several “Sober February” campaigns, including a very popular one in Quebec. Now that’s a thought.

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GARFUNKEL’S TWIST

Boushel advises using Fee Brothers bitters for non-alcoholic cocktails because the entire line is alcohol-free.

2 oz Seedlip Garden 108 1/2 oz fresh lemon juice 3/4 oz lavender-cranberry syrup (see below) 1 egg white 3 dashes Fee Brothers Black Walnut bitters Add first four ingreadients to an ice-filled cocktail shaker and shake well for 45 seconds. Fine strain into a chilled coupe glass, then add the bitters.

LAVENDER-CRANBERRY SYRUP To make this syrup, combine in a saucepan 1 cup sugar with 1 cup organic cranberry juice and 2 tbsp dried lavender flowers. Gently bring to a slow simmer, heating until the sugar is dissolved. Cool for 1 hour, then strain, bottle and refrigerate for up to 1 month. × × VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/MIXED/ FOR MORE DRINK RECIPES

BON VIVANT PETER ROCKWELL

Did Australian wines stop being cool? No one I know is drinking them any more.

ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM

It’s not that they’ve lost their cool; it’s more like they’ve lost their way. If you’re old enough to remember the late ’80s, Aussie juice was the hippest pour in town. It flowed into the ’90s under the harmonious “Wines of Australia” banner, with winemakers from competing vineyards joining forces to promote the didgeridoo out of each other’s wines.

Those wines were big, boozy and layered with perceived value. You see, average wine drinkers, especially newbies, calculate a wine’s worth by how it lands in their mouths. A punch is considered more impressive than a slap — and once upon a time, even the most pedestrian wines from Down Under delivered a solid right hook to the palate.

Problem is, popularity breeds lethargy, which breeds homogony, which breeds the generic pumping out of boring, cookie-cutter wines that lose much of their oomph as they get mass-produced.

Australia saw the trap and dove at the cheese, currently holding the unenviable reputation as the “cheap-and-cheerful” king of the wine world.

Recently, those who make more “serious” Aussie wines have started believing the baloney fried up by both the mainstream and Internet media: that people want subtle and lighter alcohol from their wines rather than texture and guts.

Reread the second paragraph. That’s not what people want — and not what Australia does best. Again, Australia has lost its way.

Of course, there are plenty of wineries that have stuck to their guns and still make wines that fill your glass with brawn and bravado, but they’ve become the exception. My advice to Australian winemakers is to return to that “all for one” credo.

Forget about pushing regionality (most can’t find Sydney on a map, let alone Coonawarra). Forget about trying to be something you’re not, and leave subtlety to the Europeans. With the ’80s back in vogue, dust off those old Paul Hogan commercials, give them a Men at Work soundtrack and revel in retro. Millennials are all over that vibe and you’ve got all the hashtags you need to recapture your cool.

Why does every wine article I read think Millennials are so great?

Get used to it my friend: the hipster set has discovered wine and they’re making it a part of their culture. And you won’t get any complaints from me. I’m thrilled that the three Millennials in my life see wine as an option, rather than some highfalutin’ drink you need a title and a lapel pin to appreciate. × ASK YOUR QUESTIONS AT BONVIVANT@QUENCH.ME

I think that’s the real problem many older wine drinkers have with Millennials. While they can be as pretentious as any generation, they don’t take things that seriously. When it comes to wine, they’re more interested in the story behind the label than the soil content or three-centuries-old history of the vineyard. They also have zero loyalty, which really irks producers of classic wine brands that are seeing their domination of liquor store shelves deteriorate because this younger audience doesn’t give them the respect they think they deserve.

For the majority of my generation, wine was a thing our mothers bought to have with Christmas dinner. We were beer and spirit drinkers. We didn’t know one end of a wine bottle from the other — and many of us still don’t. That’s why you should get ready for Generation Jones to become the next darlings of wine marketers. Referring to those born from the mid-’50s to mid-’60s, the population of Generation Jones is in a similar boat but it’s sailing far ahead of the one the Millennials are in. They also know very little about wine, but as they prepare to retire (and ipso facto drink less but better), they will become the target every winery will set its sights on.

Like Millennials, the GenJos love a fun label and a simple story. That’s where their paths cross. While the kids are all right, we middle-agers are where the real money is. You read it here first. × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 15

RURAL

BREWS

by Jordan St. John

Three years ago, if you had suggested that Prince Edward County was likely to become one of Ontario’s most interesting beer destinations, your prediction might have been thought ridiculous.

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PHOTOS: EVE HARVEY

The region is known — at least in the modern era — for wine. After all, the County is the most recent recipient of a VQA appellation and contains something like 50 wineries, including notables Norman Hardie, Huff and Hinterland. But something else is also happening.

The sudden popularity of beer in the region is a departure, but it’s not without precedent. The mid- to late 19th century saw the mass export of the region’s barley in the wake of the American Civil War. While not historically noted for local brewing, the region’s willingness to adapt has become a hallmark. Over time, the County has gone through a number of different booms, including lumbering, shipbuilding and now tourism.

“The allure of the County — and what the character is — is old, rural Canada,” says Parsons Brewing Company mas-

ter brewer, Chris Parsons. “The best and worst thing to happen to Prince Edward County was the 401.” Since the County is made up of small, agricultural towns, the distance to that highway limits development. This has the effect of preserving the character of Picton’s main street, drawing tourists to become long-term residents and find niche businesses to run. With three million tourists to the region in 2016, local brewing has taken off.

For Chris and Samantha Parsons, their long-term association with the area began when their parents retired to PEC. Parsons Brewing began as a cottage property, becoming a brewery only after corporate life in Toronto became claustrophobic for its owners. Informed by disparate influences, the barnlike bottle shop and taproom features an assortment of tacos, tostadas and flautas, in addition to the

odd bowl of ramen and Malaysian curry.

While the Crushable Pilsner and Parsons Pale are the kind of offerings that will keep a rural business afloat with locals during the winter season, it’s the more esoteric choices that truly showcase the region.

Take, for instance, Marysburgh Vortex Imperial IPA, named after the region’s Bermuda Triangle equivalent. From a recipe construction standpoint, there is serendipity at work here: it is a beer that would have been impossible to make three years ago. The beer contains 80 percent locally grown ingredients, including malt from Barn Owl near Belleville and Chinook hops from Pleasant Valley Hops in Hillier.

As a result, the flavour profile is different than anything else on the market in Ontario, with local terroir shining through.

Another special Parsons project combines grape and grain. Taking advantage

CHRIS PARSONS IS PART OF THE HUGE BOOM OF BREWERS TO CALL PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY HOME

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 17

COUNTY ROAD BEER COMPANY FARMHOUSE SAISON ($4/355 ML)

Based out of Hillier, County Road’s Saison is now available in cans, making it a more attractive proposition for vacationers in the county. It pours with an enormous head and vibrant carbonation that boosts the soft spice, white pepper, and fragrant lemon candy on the aroma. It may be the best value Saison in Ontario.

555 BREWING COMPANY THE JUDGE MUNICH HELLES LAGER ($3.50/473 ML)

Available on the Main Street in Picton at their brewery tap and for takeaway in cans, The Judge is brewed in the best traditions of a gentle German lager.

The soft, round, crackery malt character supports gentle herbal and floral hop character, making this a simple but balanced offering from a young brewery.

PARSONS BREWING COMPANY GRANDPA MIGUEL’S COFFEE STOUT ($7.50/650 ML)

In a move requiring multi-generational planning, this stout includes Guatemalan coffee beans allowing for marvelous aromas of espresso, rich cocoa, and dark cherry all enfolded in a surprisingly light body.

LAKE ON THE MOUNTAIN BREWING COMPANY ONOKENOGA PALE ALE ($6/660 ML)

Lake On The Mountain has graduated from a small extract brewhouse to a new space will an all grain setup and the result has been an impressive leap in quality. With the Onokenoga Pale Ale, the hop character leads the charge down your palate with notes of pine and honeydew melon before ending in a sweet malt finish.

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PRINCE EDDY’S MASTER BREWER, ERIC HORNAUER

of the Pinot and Chardonnay vines that came with the property, the brewery’s Sunkissed uses a Belgian Saison yeast to derive some fermentation character, with the acidity in the juice rendering the beer tart and refreshing. While the concept is a significant departure from mainstream brewing, it can certainly be said to use the region’s strengths to its advantage.

There’s an old saying that it takes a lot of beer to make good wine. However, in the case of Hinterland’s sister brewery, County Road Beer, it’s the reverse. County Road’s concept is borrowed from the traditional beer gardens of Europe and features a seasonal menu of locally available ingredients. The tap list features mostly beers made in Belgian styles since the concept is that of a farmhouse brewery.

The Saison has made it into the LCBO, but the highlight is the Cherry Gose made with organic cherry juice and suitably tart for summer sipping. At County Road, the tone is different than at Parsons, informed by a distinct set of influences and more European in nature.

WHILE THE DISTANCE IN CONCEPT BETWEEN PARSONS AND COUNTY ROAD MAY BE SUBSTANTIAL, IT’S PERFECT FOR MARKETING. “What you’re

selling people is an experiential package — you’re drawing people in from the highway. We’ve trained our staff to tell people, ‘once you’re finished here, you should try the other guys,’” says Chris Parsons. “We always hope to have the demand nearly outstripping the supply.”

DREW WOLLENBERG FROM 555 BREWING

That supply is small but demand is high. Last summer, Parsons was forced to outsource a double batch of its Pilsner to Mackinnon Brothers in nearby Bath. Other local breweries also suffer from a similar problem, with Picton’s 555 Brewing producing beer out of the region’s oldest brewery, Barley Days.

That said, 555 is a brewery that grew out of a different concept. Initially designed as a brewpub, the County Canteen on Picton’s main drag became so popular so quickly that keeping beer on tap was a near impossibility. The answer was an off-site production brewery down the street. 555 soon became a destination in its own right thanks to a large, spacious patio and wood-fired pizzas. While waiting for a new brewhouse to arrive to increase production to meet demand, outsourcing locally is necessary.

“The more we work together, and are seen as a region, the more it’s going to have advantageous outcomes,” says County Canteen and 555 Brewing co-owner, Nat Wollenberg. “It’s a lot like the Margaret River in Australia, although we’re about 10 to 15 years behind.

There are big parallels between the two, being gastronomy regions.”

Transplanted from Australia after marrying Canadian Drew Wollenberg, Nat and her husband bought into PEC completely and now employ nearly 60 people during the busy season. 555 Brewing’s branding even references local history, notably a murder in nearby Bloomfield, where a man was killed for the money he had made selling a load of hops.

The brewery gets a lot of marketing mileage out of that story. Called The Judge, their German Helles — one of the best in the province — is a lightly bready lager with a floral and herbal European hop aroma, and The Jury, their pale ale, references the Wollenbergs’ Australian origins with a South Pacific tropical hop character. There has even been a collaboration with the County Cider Company called The Executioner, a 100 percent Ida Red cider that packs an enormous punch.

Demand is ripe for more innovative styles of beer. While most of the brewing is done by Drew, the Jail Cell series is Nat’s beer. Kettle soured and rarely the

same brew twice, it flies out the door. “We put on a keg at the Canteen of the first batch and it sold like crazy,” she notes.

Since Midtown Brewing opened in Wellington and Prince Eddy’s set up shop in Picton in 2017, there’s now a dozen breweries in the County, which spans approximately from Trenton to Napanee on the 401. But it may soon be impossible to keep up with the number of breweries. According to Chris Parsons, there are as many as two dozen breweries in the planning— a number that seems untenable even with the massive population boom that occurs between May and October.

For the time being, though, the atmosphere is collegial and the identity of each brewery is sufficiently distinct that they can all provide different experiences.

Thanks to that distinctiveness, they can also support each other. In fact, periodically, area brewers will meet up at the County Canteen to touch base. As such, the County beer boom can credibly be said to stem from a sense of common purpose. Not surprisingly, a region that was once home to a shipbuilding boom knows better than any other that a rising tide lifts all boats. × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 19

FRANCIA-LY SPEAKING

PEOPLE ARE DRINKING MORE SPARKLING WINE. In Ontar-

io, demand for sparkling wine grew over 14 percent in the last year. These people are looking beyond Champagne in the quest to quench their thirst. We are fortunate to have many options at our disposal when looking for something affordable that has some fizz — Prosecco and Cava have become staples at brunch establishments. You can also often find a bottle of Canadian bubbles in my home when I’m looking for outstanding quality and great value. However, my search for something new in the sparkling realm has brought me back to Italy.

On the south side of Lake Iseo, in the Lombardy region of Italy, you find yourself in Franciacorta. This region produces 20 million bottles of sparkling a year, which pales in comparison to the more than 300 million produced of Champagne and Prosecco. If you aren’t familiar with this region, you’re not alone. Nestled into the foothills of the alps, warm growing days are met with cool nights, which allows the fruit to retain the acidity necessary to make sparkling wine.

Wines here are made in the traditional style, requiring at least 18 months on lees before they can be labelled as Franciacorta. The region is heavily planted with Chardonnay, Pinot Nero 20 @ QUENCH_MAG

by Andre Proulx

(Noir) and Pinot Bianco (Blanc). It’s clear that this region draws inspiration from Champagne. But when I put the wine in my glass, I am thinking of anything but. There are aromas of brioche and bread. The ripe fruit flavours of peach, pear and apple unravel on the palate and make these wines very un-Champagne. The ripeness of the fruit aromas and flavours in these wines signal a little more heat in the vineyard than their French counterparts.

In spite of the heat, these wines have beautiful acidity and great balance. I have fallen in love with this mysterious stranger.

While I’m enjoying this new attraction, I can’t help but ask myself: is it fair to compare these wines to Champagne? Do I even need to compare them to the French? Just because the wines are made in a similar style doesn’t make them similar.

Just because Champagne has created the mould doesn’t mean it can’t be broken, or at least tinkered with. Limited as it is by geography, there will never be enough space in Franciacorta to plant enough vines to match the production of Champagne or Prosecco, so these bottles will always be a bit of a rarity in the global picture. However, they offer great value and something out of the ordinary. So, when a bottle makes an appearance at your local wine shop, it’s worth seeking out.

MOSNEL SATÈN 2012 ($50)

3 years on lees, with 40% of the wine barrel fermented, brings a nice vanilla note to this bottle.

ARTURO ZILIANI AT THE PALAZZO LANA BERLUCCHI

MOSNEL BRUT NATURE NV ($31)

No dosage is added to this wine, leaving only 1 g/l of residual sugar. Even with no sugar in the glass, it feels rich and sweet on the palate.

CA’ DEL BOSCO CUVÉE PRESTIGE NV ($43)

This is one of the most widely available bottles of Franciacorta outside of Italy.

Flavours and aromas of apple and white flower are met with citrus on the finish.

CA’ DEL BOSCO ZERO DOSAGE 2009 ($53)

4 years on lees brings a nice toasted bread note to the wine. White flower and vanilla open up and linger.

RICCI CURBASTRO BRUT NV ($25)

There’s a spice note mingled with McIntosh apple that will have you yearning for roast pork and apples.

RICCI CURBASTRO EXTRA BRUT 2013 ($25)

A 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Nero. Restrained and subtle with a bread note layered over apples and spice.

RICCI CURBASTRO ROSÉ NV ($27)

In Franciacorta, Pinot Nero needs to make up at least 25% of the blend in rosé. Strawberry is mated perfectly with a nice bread note. The fruit tastes candied, but this is bone dry with only 4 g/l of sugar left.

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 21

ROSÉ PAS DOSÉ 2011 ($47)

This wine has spent 4 years on lees and is made from 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. A nice bready note is layered over subtle strawberry and raspberry.

BARONE PIZZINI GOLF 1927 ($32)

The nose is apple and brioche. The palate is rich, pushing into citrus. A perfect match for risotto or lobster.

JUST BECAUSE CHAMPAGNE HAS CREATED THE MOULD DOESN’T MEAN IT CAN’T BE BROKEN, OR AT LEAST TINKERED WITH. LIMITED AS IT IS BY GEOGRAPHY, THERE WILL NEVER BE ENOUGH SPACE IN FRANCIACORTA TO PLANT ENOUGH VINES TO MATCH THE PRODUCTION OF CHAMPAGNE OR PROSECCO, SO THESE BOTTLES WILL ALWAYS BE A BIT OF A RARITY IN THE GLOBAL PICTURE.

BARONE PIZZINI SATÈN EDIZIONE 2011 ($42)

Bottles labelled “Satèn” are made using only white grapes; with this wine, that means often made only with Chardonnay. Bone dry with a mineral note that pokes through from start to finish. Rich and complex.

BARONE PIZZINI ROSÉ EDIZIONE 2013 ($40)

The red fruit is strawberry jam and maraschino cherry that’s met with pink grapefruit. Perfect acidity ties the wine together.

BERLUCCHI ’61 SATÈN NV ($23)

A subtle vanilla note is met with apples and peach. Pair this with Parmesan cheese straight up to add some umami to the orchard fruit.

BERLUCCHI ’61 BRUT NV ($40)

A mineral note and slight salinity to this wine make it stand out. There is a lot of complex flavours layered over the fruit in this bottle.

BERLUCCHI ’61 ROSÉ NV ($27)

Raspberry is front and centre in this bottle. Slight citrus starts to poke its way through on the finish. ×

MAURIZIO ZANELLA, FOUNDER OF CA’ DEL BOSCO

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CHANGING THE STORY

by Michael Pinkus

As one of the top 10 wine-producing countries in the world, it’s surprising how little we talk about South Africa. Is it because we are so far away? Probably not; we Canadians drink wine from places much farther away. Is it because we only think of South Africa as making coffee-flavoured, Pinotage-based wines (see page 26)? That is a possibility, as that seems to be the majority of what makes headlines on our shores. Or is it because we think of it as strictly a hot climate region that does not fit in with our shifting tastes from winter (red) to summer (white)?

Well, today we’re going to rectify that situation as we take a look at some of the wines you probably think about the least, if and when you think about South African wines: white wines.

I’m sure we all occasionally think about South Africa, but not as much as we do other countries that export wine to our shores. But would you believe that South Africa ranks seventh out of all wine-producing countries, and that it contributes 3.9 percent of the world’s wine? That said, I am sure we think more about the wines from Chile, Argentina and Germany (who rank eight, ninth and tenth worldwide). So, it’s amazing to me that we don’t a) see much more wine from South Africa, or b) talk about South Africa more often.

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 23

ANDREA FREEBOROUGH, NEDERBURG CELLARMASTER

GRAHAM BECK BRUT PINOT NOIR/CHARDONNAY SPARKLING ($19.95)

It’s great to kick things off with bubbles, and while this is not all Chardonnay, it is all “white wine,” with lots of toast, biscuit and lemon curd notes.

CEDERBERG GHOST CORNER SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015 ($21.95)

I think there’s a much different South Africa than you and I have seen. In 2016 alone, South Africa exported 428.5 million litres. The country also grows more white varieties than red varieties. In fact, whites outpace reds, 55 percent to 45 percent. And while Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 11 percent of the red production, and is the highest-ranking red grape in the ground, there are two white grapes that come ahead: Chenin Blanc (also known as Steen) and Colombard, followed closely

by Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. While many red grapes are showing decline, year-after-year, in production acreage, a fair number of white grapes are actually increasing — proving that South Africa believes in its white wines. Would you believe that four of the six most important and most planted grapes in the country are white varietals?

So, maybe it’s time to rethink the way we perceive South African wine — instead of a red-driven country, for the moment anyway, white wines are king. If you’re looking for something to fill your glass of the paler persuasion from this land, allow me to give you a few choice selections.

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If you like your Savvy B on the herbal and green side, this is your baby. It’s got grass, asparagus, peas, leafy greens and more, but there is also some citrus zing on the finish to reign it all in.

CATHEDRAL CELLAR BRUT SPARKLING 2010 ($17)

Another gorgeous traditional method bubbly. Plenty of apple and leesy notes along with fresh citrus and some punch on the finish with expressive acidity that helps balance it out.

DE WETSHOF LIMESTONE HILL UNWOODED CHARDONNAY 2016 ($16.95)

Unoaked Chardonnay can be so boring, but not here. This surprising unoaked wine must have had lees contact involved in its making as it possesses nice weight in the mouth along with yellow plum, peach, sweet apple and floral.

CEDERBERG WINEMAKER DAVID NIEUWOUDT

SOUTHERN RIGHT SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016 ($21.95)

A pretty righteous Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa with lots of nice gooseberry and chalky mineral. It also has a good midweight on the palate. Impressive.

that sides more on the fresh fruit vein with citrus and tropical nuances while ending with a subtle/soft finish.

DE GRENDEL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016 ($20)

RUSTENBERG CHARDONNAY 2015 ($19.95)

A funky Chardonnay that shows real complexity once you get past the oaky, smoky, buttery notes, after which you’ll find some melon, lemon/lime and even hints of minerality.

Lots of toasty-smoky butterscotch, almond praline and hazelnut. There’s fruit here; it’s subtle but it’s there.

With a hint of Semillon (~9%) on board and some extended lees contact, both to give texture and added mouthfeel, this Sauv Blanc comes across more creamy than zingy. There’s still plenty of citrus surrounded by tropical fruit but it also shows some interesting complexity.

KEN FORRESTER OLD VINE RESERVE CHENIN BLANC 2016 ($17.95)

HAMILTON RUSSELL CHARDONNAY 2016 ($43.95)

A great example of Chenin with all the fixin’s most people think of when tasting this grape: lanolin, lime, peach pit and grapefruit zest. Ageable for 5-plus years.

This is South Africa trying to beat California at its own game: a big, brash oaky Chardonnay that saw plenty of new oak, but less malolactic in an attempt to keep the balance of buttery, vanilla, and caramel in check with acidity.

RAATS ORIGINAL CHENIN BLANC 2016 ($21.95)

VINUM AFRICA CHENIN BLANC 2016 ($16)

BELLINGHAM HOMESTEAD SERIES THE OLD ORCHARDS CHENIN BLANC 2015 ($15.95)

JARDIN BARREL FERMENTED CHARDONNAY 2015 ($21.95)

MAN FREE-RUN STEEN CHENIN BLANC 2015 ($13.95)

Simple but satisfying with lanolin, pineapple and melon rind accompanied by nice, balancing acidity and a medium-length finish.

CATHEDRAL CELLAR CHENIN BLANC 2014 ($16.95)

A lighter than expected version of Chenin

Here’s your chance to get Chenin-light from old-vine fruit. Instead of being a really fruity wine, this one kicks off with lanolin and citrus pith. Over time, it should develop a few more recognizable white fruits on the palate.

NEDERBURG MANOR HOUSE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017 ($15.95)

Clean, crisp and perfectly ready for summer — or thinking about summer — depending on the time of year when you drink it.

Lots of grassy and citrus flavours with a hint of guava on the finish.

Floral, lanolin, waxy and honey aromas all make an appearance on the nose, while the palate adds some really beautiful peach and apple flavours into the mix.

A different kind of Chenin that focuses more on secondary flavours and aromas than primary. Look for baked apple, liquorice and pear skin. × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 25

JOIN THE

by Treve Ring

CLUB HOW DID PINOTAGE, A GRAPE OFTEN (AND EQUALLY) VILIFIED AND INAPPROPRIATELY VINIFIED, BECOME SOUTH AFRICA’S SIGNATURE RED?

26 @ QUENCH_MAG

ANTHONY HAMILTON RUSSELL LOOKS AT THE 400-MILLION-YEAR-OLD BOKKEVELD SHALE, WHICH UNDERLIES THE CLAY AND IRON RICH SOILS OF HIS VINEYARDS

There are few, if any, vinifera grapes that have faced the acrimony of famous wine writers (Lettie Teague and Jamie Goode, among them) and also spawned a fan site, The Pinotage Club. There is even an official Pinotage Association, an International Pinotage Day (mark your calendars for October 2018) and a popular Top 10 Pinotage Competition that occurs annually in South Africa.

Of course, this grape is uniquely borne of South Africa. It was developed in 1925 by Professor Abraham Perold, the first Professor of Viticulture at Stellenbosch University, when he successfully crossed Pinot Noir and Cinsaut. The grape is a viticultural intraspecific cross of two varieties of vitis vinifera, and not an interspecific hybrid, as it is often referred. At that time, Cinsaut was known as Hermitage, hence the compounded name Pinotage. Perold planted four seeds from his cross in the garden of his official residence at Welgevallen Experimental Farm, but left the university in 1927 for a job with KWV co-operative. When the garden became overgrown and the university sent in a team to clean it up, the seeds were nearly scrubbed out with the weeds.

Fortunately, a young lecturer at the University of Stellenbosch who knew about the plants came across the cleanup and saved the plants from destruction. Thanks to Dr. Charles Niehaus, they were moved to Elsenburg Agricultural College, where Perold’s

successor, Professor C.J. Theron, grafted them onto rootstock in 1935. The first Pinotage was vinified in 1941, the year of Perold’s death. It wasn’t until 1961 that it appeared on a commercial wine label, with the release of the 1959 Lanzerac Pinotage.

For all its infamy, Pinotage is not even the most planted grape in South Africa — coming in third among the red grapes after Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, and only accounting for approximately 7 percent of total plantings overall. According to South African Wine Industry Statistics (SAWIS) reports, at the end of 2016 there were 7052 ha planted, with the majority in Swartland, Paarl and Stellenbosch, and most vines in the 16- to 20-year range. Detractors bemoan a distinctive paint or nail polish note in some wines, which earned the grape the nickname Paintage. However, grape scientists and winemakers have shown this amyl or isoamyl acetate is the result of poor winemaking choices, rather than a characteristic of the grape.

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 27

GAVIN SLABBERT AND HIS COUSIN BRUWER RAATS DECIDED TO COLLAB ON B. VINTNERS

DAVID & NADIA SIEBRITSKLOOF PINOTAGE 2016, PAARDEBERG, WO SWARTLAND ($35)

From the highest slopes of the Paardebosch Farm in Swartland’s Paardeberg, this dry-farmed bush vine is from grapes almost 30 years old, and treated in a very low interventionist style. Strawberry, leather, wild raspberry, wild flowers, thorns and stony earth pop with a bright pomegranate and cranberry freshness. Tannins are fine and gritty, reflecting the lengthy, delicate skin contact before 11 months in older French barrels. A luring and moreish rock rose scrub lingers on the finish.

FRAM PINOTAGE 2015, WO CITRUSDAL MOUNTAIN ($30)

This comes from the dry-farmed bush vines and red sandstone hills of the iconic Skurfburg vineyard, northwest of Clanwilliam. After a 2-week ferment with native yeast and 15% stems added in, this continued MLF in stainless before 16 months in older French oak. Salty and bright, with wild blackberry, anise and perfumed cherry atop a well-worked leather base. Intense (at 14.5%) but finessed, with bright, cool and juicy fruit lifted with a brisk acidity.

RADFORD DALE FRANKENSTEIN PINOTAGE 2014, STELLENBOSCH ($40)

No angry monster here, just a gentle soul of a grape, often misunderstood. 25-year-old dry-farmed bush vines in white clay at the base of Helderberg Mountain yield this concentrated, early-picked red.

This was partially destemmed without crushing, resulting in near-half this wine fermenting whole berry. The partial carbonic maceration aids the pure wild strawberry candied aromas woven throughout, as well as silkening the long tannins. The wine was then gently pressed to fill 500-600L older barrels for maturation. A pure cherry core bases this supple wine, while perfumed black raspberries and wild lavender swirl around.

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B. VINTNERS LIBERTÉ PINOTAGE 2015, WO STELLENBOSCH ($42)

B. Vintners is a collaboration between Bruwer Raats, whose family was amongst the first Dutch settlers, and his cousin Gavin. The Raats family has always been based in Stellenbosch, and this project was created to show some of the special sites and areas of Stelly — much like they saw the Swartland Independents doing — through minimal intervention. This is old-vine pinotage on decomposed granite soils at altitude, and close to the ocean in Bottelary Hills. An earlier pick, wild ferment, light extraction and gentle elevate (14 months in oak, 10% new) has produced a crisp, fresh and crunchy pinotage, one that pours a medium cherry hue and is full of wild raspberries, pomegranate, herbal plum and fynbos scrub. Tannins are fine, sapid-lined and the finish is bright. Chill this expressive light red slightly for maximum enjoyment.

Like its parent, Cinsaut, the vines are hardy and vigorous, early ripening and with high tannins and sugar levels. The grape can yield very high (up to 120 hl/ha) but when cropped low, as with the older dry-farmed bush vines, there is a concentration and complexity that is undeniable.

While styles vary greatly, the grape commonly shows a deep ruby to crimson hue and aromas of mulberry, plum, black cherry, bramble, damson, prune, sweet spice and clove. Some new wave producers are working with earlier picking dates and low-impact vessels to create a fresh, juicy, smashable red. Other quality vintners are working more classically to produce medium- to full-bodied, oak-structured and age-worthy reds. With both styles, less extraction, low yields and more care is revealing finessed, livelier and characterful wines. The beauty of the grape (remember chameleon-like Pinot Noir is its other parent) is that it can produce light and easy wines, like youthful Beaujolais, or it can go ripe and wood spiced, like Zinfandel. Some producers are using Pinotage in sparkling wines, and others work with it in fortified and dessert wines.

Its prevalence and positioning in the Western Cape has pioneered the “Cape Blend” red, the local South African take on the Bordeaux Blend. The official definition of a Cape Blend is any red wine blended with a significant portion of Pinotage. While

no official minimums or maximums of grapes are in place, Cape Blends often are based on Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, and often include the likes of Shiraz, Cinsault and Cabernet Franc.

Pinotage is also planted elsewhere around the world. New Zealand was the first to trial the grape, followed by California in the late 1970s, and here in Canada in the late 1990s. In British Columbia, Stoneboat Vineyards, Lake Breeze Winery and The View Winery work with the grape, while in Ontario, Del Gatto Estates, Cape Vineyards and Vineland Estates make wine with Pinotage. The grape can also be found in Virginia, Oregon, Australia, Brazil, Cyprus, Israel and beyond.

Anthony Hamilton Russell, of Hamilton Russell, made a friendly bet with Jancis Robinson in 1996 that “one day, South Africa’s most famous wine will be a Pinotage or a Pinotage-based wine.” Russell, a passionate champion of the grape, as well as of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley where his eponymous winery is based, believes the early-ripening grape is best suited to cooler climates, much like its Pinot Noir heritage. Perhaps in future, the focus will sharpen on this Burgundian connection, rather than the unfortunate Paintage in collective consciousness. The wines on the previous page will certainly go a long way in changing Pinotage perception, and should inspire others to revisit making and drinking South Africa’s signature red. ×

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 29

DOES BACO GET THE RESPECT IT DESERVES?

by Konrad Ejbich

Baco Noir has been a target of grape shaming ever since the budding of the wine industry. I ought to know, I’ve been one of the chief hurlers of scorn and ridicule since I tasted it for the first time back in 1977. It was weedy, sour and, to my mind, vulgar.

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20 BEES’ WINEMAKER SCOTT MCGREGOR

Over the years, Baco failed to win me over. As any trained and qualified wine judge will attest, we don’t have to like a product to assess whether it’s balanced and well made, so I was able to set aside my anti-Baco bias on a professional level. On the personal side, not only did I avoid it, I went so far as to engage in high-spirited Twitter wars with a few of Ontario’s Baco producers and aficionados. Given how much we enjoyed needling each other, my recent requests for product samples were met with cynicism and raised eyebrows.

I had to convince them that I’d decided to revisit the grape and rethink my bias. As a veteran journalist, I thought it was high time to explore the mystery of why anyone in their right mind would grow this particular hybrid variety and turn it into wine.

First, a bit of history. According to Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and José Vouillamoz, Baco Noir was hybridized in 1902 by François Baco in the Département de Landes in southwest France. He crossed the vitis vinifera variety Folle Blanche with a vitis riparia cultivar called Grande Glabre and named it Baco 24-23. It was officially dubbed Baco Noir in 1964.

Unlike most red varieties, which have whitish pulp, Baco Noir is a teinturier grape, meaning it has deeply coloured purple pulp. It’s also thin skinned, providing little tannin, and has searing acidity; but Baco Noir delivers a high degree of juicy, dark berry fruitiness.

One attraction for winemakers is its extreme winter hardiness, but is also an early-budding, early-ripening grape susceptible to spring frosts. Exceptionally vigorous, it requires substantial pruning and leaf-plucking. Additionally, the grape bunches need exposure to sun, but that visibility makes them more accessible to hungry birds.

Some growers and winemakers call it the Pinot Noir of hybrids because it can be demanding and finicky. Nevertheless, in recent years, it has become the most-planted red variety in Ontario. Henry of Pelham Family Estate, situated in the Short Hills Bench appellation, is one of the province’s largest growers of Baco.

They have 60 acres, 12 of which were shovel-planted in 1984.

“We really didn’t know what we were doing when we planted our first vines,” says winery president Paul Speck. “We based our decision on advice from other local growers.”

All of the harvest is used for the winery’s estate-bottled production of the highest tiers, including the three Henry of Pelham wines tasted below. Additional tonnage is purchased for use in lower tiers or processed for resale to other wineries.

Speck tells me Baco is one of the winery’s most popular brands, both domestically and internationally. Drinkers of every age, gender, ethnicity and level of wine knowledgeability are attracted to its bold and juicy flavours.

“We have sommeliers all over the world who pour it,” he says, adding, “We sell it in every country that we ship wine to and it’s generally our biggest seller.”

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 31

20 BEES BACO NOIR 2015 ($10.95)

Dark ruby-purple hue. Subdued nose at first opens to notes of dark berries. Fresh, clean, citrusy taste with juicy red cherry flavours, medium body and a hint of charred barrel in the finish.

Easy drinking with spicy food, like pastrami or a Reuben sandwich.

INNISKILLIN DISCOVERY SERIES BACO NOIR 2016 ($19.95)

Dense ruby-purple colour right to the rim. Nose is redolent of milk chocolate embedded with dried berries. Smooth and light-bodied, creamy cocoa tones, plenty of red and black cherry flavours and an oaky-smoky tannic finish. Enjoy with a smoked meat sub or wood-fired pepperoni pizza.

ALTON FARMS BACO NOIR 2016 ($20)

Pale ruby with a garnet rim. Bright, candied cherry aroma with a herbal undertone. Light-bodied with good fruit flavours; sweet and tart with a pleasant dry finish. Made for an all-dressed burger with an extra pickle.

HENRY OF PELHAM BACO NOIR 2016 ($14.95)

Deep ruby-purple tint, solid to the rim. Nose opens slowly to reveal blueberry, blackberry and plummy notes. Solid texture, good body, creamy fruit flavours and a tart, dry finish. Try with wellspiced meats or game, or ripe strawberries with cracked black pepper.

HENRY OF PELHAM OLD VINES BACO NOIR 2016 ($19.95)

PELLER ESTATES FAMILY SERIES BACO NOIR 2015 ($12.95)

Dark purple tint that follows through to the rim.

Light, restrained nose of dark fruit and berries.

Lively cherry flavours, light texture and a smooth finish. Goes well with spaghetti and meatballs.

Best for drinking early.

QUAI DU VIN BACO NOIR 2016 ($14)

Very dark colour with a purple rim. Oak-dominant nose with rich blueberry, blackberry and mulberry aromas and a vanilla-chocolate undertone.

Quite tart and dry, medium-bodied, with black cherry flavours and earthy herbal notes. Pair with rosemary chicken or ratatouille.

Dark purple all the way to the rim. Deep, dense nose of blackberry, mulberry and black cherry preserves. Terrific depth and concentration with zesty acidity, thick plummy texture, leathery notes and an elegant, long, oaky-vanilla, dry finish. A keeper. Deserves to be paired with a standing rib roast.

SANSON ESTATE BACO NOIR 2015 ($17)

HENRY OF PELHAM SPECK FAMILY RESERVE BACO NOIR 2016 ($24.95)

SANSON ESTATE BACO NOIR RESERVE 2014 ($24.95)

Inky purple colour with a purple-pink rim.

Concentrated and initially unyielding nose that slowly evolves into a rich black fruit and berry bouquet. Concentrated flavours are plummy, curranty and herbal with undertones of walnut skin, tobacco, dark coffee and grilled peppers. Tasty now, but could be cellared for a few years.

Rich ruby colour with a pale ruby rim. Restrained at first, then opens to oaky, spicy, fruity aromas with bright hints of dried cherries. Vanilla and coconut undertones confirm American oak ageing. Lovely oaked fruit flavours with vanilla pastry and nutty nuances. High acidity makes this a terrific accompaniment for top-quality grilled or roasted meat dishes.

INNISKILLIN ESTATE SERIES BACO NOIR 2016 ($15.95)

WAYNE GRETZKY ESTATES BACO NOIR 2016 ($16)

Dark ruby-purple hue with a pink rim. Jubilant strawberry-cherry-plum nose reminiscent of young Beaujolais. Impressive fruity flavour, hints of dark chocolate, medium body and a lively, dry, lingering finish. Barbecued pork ribs would make a decent match.

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This was the lightest in colour of the bunch; pale garnet with an orange rim. Stewed cherry, cranberry and blackberry aromas with a hint of vanilla oak. Zippy, cherry-citrus flavours with a dry, light-bodied finish. Pasta primavera or pizza with tomato sauce would match nicely.

Dark purple with a rich ruby rim. Medicinal for a moment, but that blows off quickly. Bright nose of dark berries, spicy cherry and blackcurrant with a hint of charred oak. Big, full and flavourful, with solid texture and clean berry notes. Dry and charming. Go whole hog with slow-cooked ribs.

CRAIG MCDONALD, WINEMAKER AT WAYNE GRETZKY ESTATES

Much of the variety’s current success can be attributed to the experimental research and practical work of Ron Giesbrecht, a faculty member at the Canadian Food and Wine Institute at Niagara College and head winemaker at Henry of Pelham from 1990 to 2013. During those years, he developed the modern vineyard management, fermentation and barrel-aging techniques that led to the variety’s transition from crude plonk to cult wine.

Outside the Niagara Peninsula, Baco Noir has been a staple of vignerons as well. Jamie Quai at Quai du Vin in St. Thomas planted an acre of it for its reliability and strong consumer acceptance. “It’s the first variety to sell out each year,” he notes.

Marc and Anne Alton, owners of Alton Farms, the first winery in Lambton County, planted Baco Noir on the advice of Niagara grape grower Matthias Oppenlaender and have been rewarded with its high survival rate in severe winters. “There’s no need to hill it up like the more delicate vinifera varieties,” Anne Alton concedes.

Winemaker Dennis Sanson, who owns Sanson Estate Winery, planted Baco Noir in 1998 on the advice of Allan Eastman, an industry pioneer who founded Charal Winery, the first estate winery to be licensed in Lake Erie North Shore. Eastman convinced Sanson that Baco was ideal for the heavy Brookston clay soils of Canada’s southernmost appellation. It’s a decision he does not regret. Judges at the All-Canadian Wine Competition have awarded him three gold medals over the years and voted his Baco Noir Reserve “Best Baco in Canada.” Sales have been so strong that he sells out every vintage before the next is released.

(We were lucky to taste a pre-release sample.)

Baco’s winter hardiness certainly justified widespread planting in the 1970s, ’80s and ’90s, but today, it’s the most

planted variety in Ontario primarily because of its solid popularity with modern wine consumers.

According to Astrid Brummer, LCBO category manager for Ontario wines, it is the fastest growing varietal among younger drinkers because they’ve never had the bad experience of older connoisseurs and hold no preconceptions about hybrids in general.

“People who are new to wine don’t know they’re not supposed to like it,” she says. “Ontario consumers have a preference for reds that are deeply coloured, rich and round — and Baco can do that. Our customers love it.”

As I tasted through a selection of bottles for this article, I came to the realization that Baco Noir winemaking has changed over the years. Today’s wines are better made, more complex and tastier than their forerunners. So, I’m hereby calling a truce in my war on Baco.

I may not take a detour to seek one out, but from now on when I’m offered a glass, I’ll graciously accept a sip and give it the respect it deserves. × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 33

THE CHALLENGES OF EATING SUSTAINABLY, ONE MEAL AT A TIME

by Joanne Will

I’M ON A TRANSATLANTIC FLIGHT, AND PLENTY OF CARBON, NO DOUBT, IS BEING RELEASED INTO THE ATMOSPHERE TO GET ME AND THE OTHER PASSENGERS TO OUR DESTINATION. But I’m also feeling slightly smug,

and somewhat virtuous: I receive my meal before the rest of the packed cabin, it’s delicious (curry), and it’s a dinner with low-carbon impact. I chose a Hindu vegetarian meal, something I’ve been doing ever since I witnessed another passenger get handed a similar meal on a flight a few years ago. That person has no idea how he changed me with his simple act. To my taste buds, the vegetarian curry is miles better than the chicken (which often feels rubbery) or roast beef (which is often dry) that’s typically served on flights.

It tastes better, and it’s good for the planet. So, why aren’t we all eating sustainably? And why don’t I? For one, it can take more time and effort to make veggies and legumes taste as rich and flavourful as meat and dairy. It’s meat and dairy, we’re repeatedly told, that are doing some of the most harm to our planet — more than cars, for example, and more, in fact, than the emissions from all of the transportation sectors combined. We raise enormous numbers of livestock, one billion cattle worldwide by the latest count, and as many as nine American states have more cattle than people (South Dakota leads the list with 4.6 cows per person). Raising that livestock comes with its own emissions.

As the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations points out, emission intensities vary from commodity to commodity. They are highest for beef, followed by meat and milk from small ruminants. Cow’s milk, chicken products and pork have lower global average emission intensities.

Raising livestock also uses up land for grazing that might otherwise sustain forests and plants — natural, indigenous vegetation necessary to remove carbon from the atmosphere, protect soil and provide habitat for the creatures that keep our ecosystems healthy. Upwards of 45 percent of available land worldwide is used to raise livestock and their feed, while only 5 percent is used to grow crops that are directly consumed by humans. Hoewver, that 5 percent provides 80 percent of the calories that humans consume.

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All this is taking place beyond our sight. In modern life, we’ve lost track of where our food comes from. Michael Pollan, author of 2006’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma, said during a recent talk at RSA House in London, “This story of where our food comes from, 75 years ago, you could not sell a book about that because everybody knew where their food comes from. They were directly involved with agriculture or they knew somebody who was and they’d been on farms.”

Today, we know little about the source of our food, unless we purchase ingredients at farmer’s markets or shops that list the source of the products they carry. Many grocery stores are not set up to help us make smart choices; choices that are good for our health are often those that have the least impact on the planet. Grocery stores can bombard and confuse us, by highlighting products from which they make the most profit (ones that are cheap, mass-produced and filled with preservatives to extend their shelf life). From the moment we step through the door, we’re bombarded by pitches for foods that are unhealthy and placed front and centre to catch our attention.

We’ve placed our trust in these stores to feed us, and in the process, we’ve lost sense of where our food comes from. As writer, farmer and poet Wendell Berry says, “The effort that is growing and has grown to foster local economies, starting with local food economies, is hope-giving. Growth of farmers’ markets, community-supported agriculture farms, and growth of an awareness in the cities of some kind of duty to those proxies they’ve given to other people, to raise food for them.”

In letting “them” raise our food for us, we have also lost the joy of preparing it ourselves; takeout, ready meals and ultra-processed foods are just too easy. Yet, they have little or no resemblance to the plants or animals from which they claim to be derived. Fast foods, produced en masse and for the masses, are high in crave-ability but are also addictive with high fat and sugar content, and produced using unsustainable practices that make them cheap, readily available and visually attractive.

This all gets so discouraging: we’ve lost the source of our food and we’ve lost our connection to preparing it. The system is broken. But how to restore it? Meal by meal seems like one realistic possibility. Trying to set a goal too large or grand often

pre-determines failure — think of all those broken New Year’s resolutions. Instead, try committing to one lentil-based soup or stew a week; or to trying one month without eating red meat to see what other substitutes can be found. Or maybe try a month of eating only local foods. Culinary creativity can flourish under these circumstances. (I speak from experience: who knew a homemade lentil, cauliflower and coconut curry would be more satiating and memorable than almost any meat-based dish I’ve tried?) Also, new relationships can be formed — with your local butcher, farmer or beekeeper.

IT’S ALL ABOUT SLOWLY AND STEADILY BECOMING MORE MINDFUL ABOUT WHAT WE EAT, WITH AN EYE TOWARDS OUR HEALTH, OUR SATISFACTION AND THE FUTURE HEALTH OF THE PLANET. One tip offered by American au-

thor and environmental activist Bill McKibben is to eat “Lower on the food chain.” When I asked if he thinks we can have any impact on climate change by switching our diets to vegetarian, or vegan, or pescatarian, or some other regime, his answer was sober. “As individuals, nothing we do will truly have a big impact. It’s when individuals come together in groups to change policy that we have some hope of leverage great enough to make a difference at this late date.”

But, just as our resolutions need not be too grand, so too should be our goals. Individuals can lead by example, changing the hearts and minds of those around us by feeling authenticity in our actions when we chose to respect our values, and what science tells us about the impact our current behaviour and lifestyles are having on the planet.

Some who lead by example are the many chefs and professional cooks who draw attention to these issues, and strive to provide a sustainable eating experience at their restaurants.

At the acclaimed Hollows restaurant in Saskatoon, for exam-

ple, chefs Christie Peters and Kyle Michael create incredible dishes that change with the seasons. Their mouth-watering mission is: “Our food is made with the best ingredients we can find in our area: cultivated plants grown from heirloom seeds, wild-harvested leaves and mushrooms, flowers, sap and roots, local fish — sustainably raised, pastured meat, poultry and eggs from small farmers.”

There are also solutions coming from technology, including plant-based meat substitutes created in labs, to look, feel and taste just like meat. Some of them are delicious, and actually quite convincing. For instance, I was recently fooled

by Impossible Foods’ meat-less “meatballs” at an eatery in Cambridge, Massachusetts.

In the end, being mindful of what we eat means cutting back on foods that take much more land, water and emissions to produce. Eating meat less often, and being more thoughtful about the meat you eat, also serves to make it more special, more of a treat — rather than a product consumed with little thought, and often twice a day in rich countries.

As British writer and environmental campaigner George Marshall has said, “Destructive activities should not be disregarded or demeaned but actually given greater respect.” When I contacted him, he added, “We should be mindful of what we eat, respect where it comes from, savour what it gives us. Doing so takes us in different directions. It may take it away from meat or it may take us towards occasional meat eaten with respect.

Either way, it is very different from wolfing down piles of lowgrade industrial product.”

Eating mindfully is not only satisfying to the senses, but staying true to your values is satisfying to the soul. And, like my experience witnessing someone else order a vegetarian meal a few years ago, it will likely set an example that others will follow, one meal at a time.× FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 35

by Tod Stewart

Brown spirits are again ruling the spirits roost.

And whisk(e)y is the king of the castle. Here’s just a wee dram of what’s new in the global whisk(e)y game.

HERE AT HOME “It’s an exciting time for the Canadian whisky market. There is such a great tradition, as well as some amazing innovation surrounding Canadian whisky, and this book is the ideal companion.” The book in question is the second edition of Davin de Kergommeaux’s Canadian Whisky: The New Portable Expert.

The quote is from a person you probably wouldn’t associate with our national spirit, namely national hockey deity Wayne Gretzky. Should you be wondering what business a sports hero has in commenting on a whisky book, it’s worth remembering that the Great One has an Ontario-produced whisky that bears his name — made by an Ontario-based distillery that also bears his name.

The fact that Gretzky now owns a Canadian distillery, and the fact that de Kergommeaux’s award-winning whisky guide is in its second edition, both attest to the resurgence in popularity of Canadian whisky. Always a distilling nation, Canada’s signature spirit seems to have had a more loyal following south of the border than here at home.

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AS THE WAVES of Lake Ontario lapped

against the shoreline and lamb slowly cooked over open fires on the pebbly beach outside Prince Edward County’s swank but cozy Drake Devonshire hotel, four exciting new Canadian whiskies were being unveiled before media, bartenders and kids with blogs (okay, okay … sorry … influencers). Actually, these weren’t really “new” whiskies, but rather new expressions of whiskies that were launched over a decade ago. Launched, I might add, to a largely unreceptive market.

Dubbed the “Canadian Whisky Guild”

by Corby, a Canadian marketer of spirits and imported wines, the range included Lot 40, Pike Creek and Gooderham & Worts. All were brilliantly crafted Canadian spirits. But all were way ahead of their time when first released. They flew under the radar of all but the most attuned whisky lovers before unceremoniously slinking off the shelves. Well, what a difference a decade makes. Relaunched as the Northern Border Collection (and now including J.P. Wiser’s 18 Year Old, as well as some tweaks to the original three), these proudly Canadian spirits have been racking up medals and winning converts. What we were introduced to at Drake by the Lake was the evolution of this series, namely, the Northern Border Collection Rare Release.

A WASH IN

WHISK(E)Y

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KOVAL DISTILLERY IN CHICAGO

The bracing, spicy Lot 40 is re-envisioned as the Lot 40 100% Rye Cask Strength Aged 12 Years. Bottled at 55 percent ABV, this is Canadian rye whisky at its boldest, spiciest, most potent best. Dark plum, rye bread, toasted grains, baking spices and candied orange peel. Rich, powerful and spicy with some brittle rye notes enveloped by a sweet, back fruit veneer.

The standard Gooderham & Worts transfigured into Gooderham & Worts Little Trinity 3 Grain Blend Aged 17 Years.

Taking its name from the red brick Little Trinity Anglican church located just north of the historic Gooderham & Worts distillery complex in Toronto, this threegrain expression offers up red apple, creamed honey, a dollop of rye and some hard toffee nuances. The warm, round and complex flavours hint at rye bread, vanilla, cinnamon and caramel.

Next up, Pike Creek — usually a 10-year-old, rum-barrel-finished number — sees a Rare Release expression in the Pike Creek Finished in Speyside Single 38 @ QUENCH_MAG

Malt Casks Aged 21 Years. The name is a bit of a mouthful, but, then again, so is the whisky. Aged in a warehouse with no electrical climate control, the barrels are subject to variances in temperature and humidity, leading to a fair bit of reduction in volume (darn angels). What it lacks in volume, it makes up in flavour. Complex, with sweet vanilla, toasted grain, subtle smoke and marshmallow aromatics that segue into a warm, round, sit-me-by-thefire-and-rub-my-shoulders kinda thing.

(Hey, I can dream!)

Finally, we were treated to the J.P. Wiser’s Aged 35 Years. Thirty-five is a nice age. The second-oldest Canadian whisky ever released — and certainly the oldest J.P. Wiser’s expression — this is, honestly, brilliant stuff. Bottled at a potent 50 percent ABV, it’s mostly corn with a splash of rye to pump up the spicy notes.

In a word, it’s big. Creamy and silky in the mouth, it nonetheless retains a crisp, brisk, peppery core that holds the fruity, grassy, marmalade notes in check. At $165

a bottle, it ain’t the stuff you mix with ginger ale … but you wouldn’t want to do that with this anyway.

Of course, The Northern Border Collection Rare Release wasn’t the only big Canadian whisky story to help usher in Canada’s 150th. In Windsor, Ontario, I waited in anticipation while Canadian Club brand ambassador Tish Harcus drew a measure of Canadian Club Aged 40 Years straight from the barrel.

Destined for blending with other whiskies, a few barrels of 100 percent corn whisky kinda got overlooked in the warehouse (and when you see the size of the CC warehouses, you’ll see how this could happen). Upon discovery — and upon tasting — it was decided (rightly) that this exceptional liquid was just perfect on its own.

“We wanted this to be as pure an expression as we could get,” Harcus revealed while pouring my dram. “So, no colouring or filtering.” What the CC people did do was reduce the cask strength of 60 percent ABV to a tamer 45 per-

cent. Good or bad move? Well, the cask strength did sport a viscous, oily mouthfeel that was, to a degree, lost in the 45 percent edition. That being said, the 60 percent was almost unbearably hot and peppery (which freaked me out a bit — a very rye-like corn whisky). In any case, it was a magnificent whisky, redolent of sweet mashed grain, dark plum, nutmeg, cinnamon, vanilla, marmalade, and caramel. If you can find it, grab it.

COLLINGWOOD, ONTARIO, is a sort of

a Canadian Aspen. A hangout for wellheeled skiers, it is also home to Canadian Mist Distillers, whose flagship product, Canadian Mist whisky, is barely attainable in Canada (the guys down south suck it all up). That being said, we have something rather special to indulge in thanks to the distillery’s Collingwood brand and, specifically, The Town Collection Collingwood Double Barrelled expression.

I tasted this new bottling with Collingwood brand ambassador John Breckon.

As we toasted Canadian Mist’s 50th anniversary, Breckon chose not to speculate on how this expression would sit with Canadian whisky drinkers. “This isn’t tra-

ditional Canadian whisky,” he admitted.

Not a bad thing, says I. It’s a full-flavoured, robust dram redolent on the nose of cigar box, buckwheat honey, caramel, sweet oak/vanilla and a hint of maple (thanks to a signature mellowing process that sees the final liquid introduced to maple wood staves). Full and rich, with baking spices, black fruit, dark chocolate and subtle vanilla/maple flavours, it certainly strays from the sharper, drier style that trademarks many Canadian whiskies.

There are even more exciting things happening on the Canadian whisky front. As I write this, I’ve received word that Jim Murray’s annual Whisky Bible pronounced the initial release of Vancouver Island-based deVine’s 2017 Glen Saanich Single Malt to be “as a first bottling, genuinely superb,” and lauded the whisky for the “unfettered brilliance of the malt and the all-round joy of the intense experience.” Also, head to www. quench.me/drinks/forty-creek-john-andersen/ for an interview with Forty Creek Distillery’s John Andersen, Senior Brand Manager, North American Whiskies as he discusses new packaging, new whiskies and new directions.

WAYNE GRETZKY WHISKY DISTILLER, JOSHUA BEACH

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 39

BACK TO THE BEGINNING CHICAGO: THE WHISKEY CITY When thinking of whiskies coming from south of the border, we typically look to Kentucky to furnish the newest goods. Not to say that exciting things aren’t happening down there (look no further than the multi-award winning Rabbit Hole Distilling for proof — ahem — of Kentucky’s contribution to forward-thinking distilling, and the inroads into the Canadian market being made by the female-helmed Michter’s Distillery), but perhaps the most innovative offerings are coming from places closer to our own neighbourhood.

Chicago is dubbed the Windy City, but it could also be called the Whisky City, thanks to the remarkable drams being crafted by the city’s internationally acclaimed KOVAL Distillery. I had the pleasurable opportunity to talk and taste with the company’s president, Dr. Sonat Birnecker Hart, when she briefly touched down in Toronto.

Birnecker and her husband, Robert, left comfortable academic lives to found the city’s first post-Prohibition distillery.

The couple’s natural curiosity and their academic approach to distilling led to experimentation with numerous different grains and oak barrels with varying levels 40 @ QUENCH_MAG

of toasting and/or charring. The result was the production of a plethora of whiskies — far more than the market could be expected to bear.

“It was absolutely insane,” Birnecker admits. “We cut down and focused on the Rye, the Oat, the Millet, the Bourbon and the Four Grain — what we felt were the best representations of what we were doing.”

The Oat shows fruity, mildly dusty/ cereal grain aromas with a rich mouthfeel and peppery/caramel flavours. The Rye is fresh, crisp and clean with traces of vanilla and a hint of fruitiness on the palate. A blend of oat, malted barley, rye and wheat, the Four Grain offers up suggestions of dark chocolate, marzipan, tobacco leaf and candied orange that segue into complex, earthy, toasted grain nuances in the mouth. The Bourbon adheres to the requisite 51 percent corn mash bill, but substitutes millet rather than the more common rye or wheat. The result is a whiskey that sports the sweet caramel flavours imparted by the corn, along with toffee, dark chocolate and marmalade notes.

These whiskies are all single barrel, certified organic and certified kosher by all the reliable certification, um, certifiers.

And certified superb by me.

Finally, could a whisk(e)y story be a whisk(e)y story without a mention of bonnie Scotland? From the far north of the county, the ever-innovative Highland Park continues to celebrate the Orkneys’ Viking heritage with the release of the Valkyrie Special Edition single malt. The first in a series of three Viking Legend releases, its striking package — created by Danish designer, Jim Lynvgild — is matched by the striking whisky inside. Mildly peaty/smoky, with notes of candied lemon, toasted grain and mild sultana on the nose. Rich, full and viscous in the mouth, there’s an intriguing blend of exotic spice, a hint of sea salt and sweet oak that carry on into the long, toasty/smoky finish.

Travelling due south, the whisky lover reaches the Old Pulteney Distillery.

Fans of their Single Malt Scotch Whisky (and even those new to it) will welcome two new malts: the 25-Year-Old and the exclusive 1983 Vintage expressions. Both whiskies have been aged in warehouses laced with the bracing sea salt air that surrounds the town of Wick on the shores of the North Atlantic.

To the west, and into the renown Speyside region, The Macallan marries European and American oak in the creation of the new The Macallan Double Cask 12 Years Old expression. New American oak is crafted into barrels in Spain and seasoned with sherry before being shipped to the distillery, filled with newly made spirit and aged for 12 years.

DAVID DOBBIN, THE VICE PRESIDENT OF COLLINGWOOD/CANADIAN MIST DISTILLERS

Once aged, the whisky are blended with others drawn from sherry-seasoned European oak. The result is a fragrant (think chocolate, butterscotch, vanilla, and floral/fruity elements), supremely smooth, velvety, luxurious dram. The uncompromising chill of winter has met its match.

Heading south, those who seek out the bolder whiskies of Islay should seek out a pair of new releases from Bowmore Distillery: No.1 Malt and the Vault Edition Atlantic Sea Salt. The former sports the distillery’s classic briny, zesty, smoky profile, while the latter, bottled at a warming 51.5 percent ABV, shows crisp, ocean spray aromas, with gently peaty, raw honey and beeswax overtones. Powerful yet exquisitely balanced, the latter features warm, slightly peppery flavours, with traces of mildly sweet orange zest and an incredibly long, peaty/caramel finish.

Sticking with Islay (and why not?), there’s much anticipation surrounding the official opening this spring of the island’s ninth operational distillery, Ardnahoe. Having been blenders and bottlers for over three generations, the Laing family has teamed up with legendary Islay stillmaster Jim McEwan to open just the second new operation on the island in over 100 years. The only Islay distillery to employ worm tubs for condensation, its first run of non-coloured, non-chill-filtered whisky is set to be released in 2021-22.

Back to the mainland, it’s a shame that so many of the great Lowland distilleries have been mothballed (Rosebank and Littlemill, we miss ya!), but at least Auchentoshan Distillery is keeping the stills stoked and creating creative bottlings, the newest being the Auchentoshan Bartender’s Malt. A collaborative effort between 12 international bartend-

ers and master blender Rachel Barrie, the whisky is a single malt designed for use in cocktails. Sampled neat, the nose is redolent of black cherry, nougat, cocoa powder and nutmeg. Quite delicate in the mouth (as Lowland malts are wont to be), it’s hardly shy, with milk chocolate, dried apricot and nutmeg flavours drifting into a lively, spicy finish.

Finally, one of the most revered Scottish malt makers has engaged in a particularly interesting collaboration that celebrates whisky, wood and, well, wheels. Visit www.quench.me/ drinks/glenmorangie-renovo/ to see how the Glenmorangie distillery and Renovo Hardwood Bicycles are breathing new life into used casks. Whisky on wheels…it’s not as dangerous as it sounds!

Indeed, the world of whisk(e)y is ever-evolving. Grab your glass, get out and explore. × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 41

BOUQUET GARNI NANCY JOHNSON

THE NOT-SO-MINIMALIST MY SISTER MARIAN HAS BEEN RELIGIOUSLY FOLLOWING THE MINIMALISTS, TWO SEEMINGLY VERY NICE FELLOWS WHO HAVE WRITTEN, FILMED AND LECTURED ON THE POWER OF PURSUING A MINIMALISTIC LIFESTYLE. Now my pesky little sister can’t stop badgering

me, which is nothing new, but this time around it’s all about minimalism versus consumerism. Marian is urging me to pare down my worldly possessions and live a simpler life. She sees it as a kind of freedom; I see it as the wretched life of a medieval monk. I am so not buying it. Which is funny, because I so love buying things.

Now please understand that I am not a hoarder. In fact, when I watch that hoarding show, I start throwing things away, but it’s usually old newspapers and candy wrappers — nothing sacred like my electric roasting pan or my pizza brick. My basement boasts neat rows of shelving, all lined with extra pots and pans, baking dishes, a bread machine, a wok, a spiralizer, cookie cutters, candelabra and other assorted necessities that I may, or may never, use. Marian thinks it looks like a thrift store; frankly, I take that as a compliment.

To appease my little sis, I dragged a soft-sided dog crate from the cobwebby room where I keep yucky things like dog crates, gardening stuff and exercise equipment. Marian sug42 @ QUENCH_MAG

gested I sell it through an online neighbourhood garage sale.

I’d never heard of such a thing, but apparently there are more online neighbourhood garage sales than there are neighbourhoods. I chose one that operates strictly within the eight blocks of my home.

I put the crate in the living room, snapped a few pics and was startled when 15 potential buyers jumped on it. Sadly, I was forced to choose a winner, a most stressful situation in an era when everybody is supposed to be a winner and everybody is supposed to get a trophy.

Meanwhile, my dog Molly found the crate and chewed off the zipper to ensure I would never trap her in that hellish soft-sided jail again. With a broken zipper, the crate was useless, so when the buyer showed up in the well-lit parking lot I had designated for pickup just in case the buyer was a thief or worse, I gave her the crate for free. “I’ll see if I can Velcro it,” she said unconvincingly. Last I saw, she was walking with the crate towards the dumpster at the Chinese restaurant next door.

The thing is, I’m not a good minimalist. I’m not good at selling things, either. I’m not even a good pet mommy because I never noticed Molly was destroying my chance to make $15.

What I do know is that I’m a pretty good cook. So, here are a few things I’ve cooked lately. Simple food. Minimalist food. × SEARCH THROUGH A WIDE RANGE OF WINE-FRIENDLY RECIPES ON WWW.QUENCH.ME/RECIPES/

THE 1950S MEAT LOAF

I got onto a kick where I just had to have a cold meat loaf sandwich (on hearty whole-wheat toast slathered with mayo) so I cooked this up. I’m happy to report it made a great dinner with a side of mashed potatoes and corn, plus several soul-satisfying meat loaf sandwiches. It’s a real ’50s recipe, but it works. The flavour key is the combo of beef, veal and pork.

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eggs cup Italian-seasoned dried breadcrumbs cup ketchup, plus more for topping cup water tsp garlic powder tsp dried parsley tsp onion powder Salt and pepper, to taste g ground beef g ground veal g ground pork

1. Preheat the oven to 350˚F. 2. In a large bowl, mix together the eggs, bread crumbs, ketchup, water and seasonings. Add the meat and mix gently with your hands until thoroughly combined. Coat a baking sheet with cooking spray. Shape the meat mixture into a loaf shape.

3. Cover the loaf with a thin layer of ketchup. Bake uncovered for 1 hour, or until meat thermometer registers 160˚F. MATCH: Serve with a Bordeaux.

CHICKEN GNOCCHI SOUP SERVES 4 TO 6

You can make the gnocchi from scratch or you can cheat (like I do) and buy gnocchi. I’ve heard “gnocchi” pronounced many incorrect ways (my grandkids call them Gah-Notchee, for Pete’s sake) but in my dad’s Italian dialect, they are called Nyaw-kee. In this recipe, chop the vegetables about the same size as the bite-sized pieces of chicken. Change the seasonings from basil and oregano to any that suit your fancy, dried or fresh. Add peas or cut green beans for extra flavour and nutrition.

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tbsp olive oil chicken breasts, cut into bite-sized pieces Salt and pepper, to taste onion, chopped stalks celery, chopped carrot, peeled and chopped tsp dried basil tsp dried oregano cups chicken broth package gnocchi

1. Add the oil to a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Season the chicken with salt and pepper, then add to the pot. Sauté for about 5 minutes, or until browned, stirring often. Remove the chicken from the pot and set aside.

2. Add the onion, celery, carrot, basil and oregano to the pot.

Sauté for about 8 to 10 minutes, or until the veggies are tender.

Add the chicken and stock. Scraping up any browned bits, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, for 7 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, in a separate pot, cook the gnocchi in boiling water according to the package directions. Drain the gnocchi and divide among 4 to 6 bowls. Ladle soup over the gnocchi.

MATCH: Excellent with Sauvignon Blanc.

GARLIC BAKED SHRIMP SERVES 4

I don’t know why I don’t make shrimp every day. It’s more available and affordable than it used to be, it cooks quickly, it adapts to so many different recipes and it tastes awesome. This recipe is elegant enough for company, served either as an appetizer or with rice as an entrée.

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g large shrimp, peeled and deveined cloves garlic, crushed then minced cup dry white wine Salt and pepper, to taste cup butter, softened cup panko bread crumbs tsp fresh parsley, minced Paprika, to taste

1. Preheat the oven to 425˚F. 2. In a baking dish, combine the shrimp, garlic and wine.

Season with salt and pepper.

3. In a small bowl, mix the butter with the bread crumbs and parsley. Sprinkle with paprika. Toss with the shrimp.

4. Bake, uncovered, until the shrimp are cooked through, about 15 to 18 minutes.

MATCH: Open a bottle of Chardonnay.

MAPLE PORK CHOPS WITH PECANS SERVES 4

A simple weeknight meal that can be pulled together in no time.

Uses one of Canada’s national treasures: sweet and smoky maple syrup. Omit the pecans if you’re not fond of nuts.

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boneless pork loin chops, about 3/4 inch thick Salt and pepper, to taste cup butter, softened and divided tbsp canola oil tbsp maple syrup tbsp pecans, chopped

1. Season the pork chops with salt and pepper. In a large skillet, over medium heat, melt 1 tbsp butter and 1 tbsp canola oil. Add the pork chops.

2. Cook the pork chips, turning once halfway through, for about 13 minutes or until the juices run clear and a meat thermometer registers 160˚F. Transfer the pork chops to a serving platter.

3. While pork chops are cooking, stir together the remaining butter and maple syrup in a small bowl. Set aside.

4. Spread the butter mixture over the cooked pork chops. Let stand until melted, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle with pecans.

MATCH: Chenin Blanc would be a good accompaniment here. × FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 43

BUYING GUIDE All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio.

Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to find the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new.

Afterall, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and will likely vary from province to province. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, so check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability.

Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Treve Ring, Tim Pawsey, Silvana Lau and Jonathan Smithe. *Available through private import and wine clubs

SPARKLING VENTURINI BALDINI MONTELOCCO 2016, IGP LAMBRUSCO FRIZZANTE, EMILIA ROMAGNA, ITALY ($18)

A sparkling wine for red wine drinkers.

The same colour as an American Beauty rose, with abundant bubbles. Medium-intensity nose of assorted ripe red berries and a hint of liquorice. Tastes of raspberry and other berries, with a bit of candied apple. The fruitiness, combined with palate-cleansing acidity, makes this a good accompaniment for a simply grilled rib steak. Drink up. (RL)*

REIF ESTATE WINERY THE STARS SPARKLING RIESLING NV, ONTARIO ($21.95)

PIERRE SPARR BRUT ROSÉ CRÉMANT D’ALSACE NV, ALSACE, FRANCE ($19.95)

SÉBASTIEN BRUNET BRUT 2014, VOUVRAY, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE ($24)

Pink champagne doesn’t come cheap but an affordable substitute is Crémant 44 @ QUENCH_MAG

d’Alsace Rosé. Fleshy pink in colour, this bubbly has a nose of cherries and citrus fruits with a light floral aroma.

Medium-bodied and dry, the flavour is of red apples and cherry pits. Chill it lightly and serve as an apéritif or with roasted chestnuts. (TA)

Made using the Charmat method, there is a lifted bouquet of white flowers, tangerine, banana, peach and honey.

This leads to a mouthful of sweet apple flavours accented by cinnamon and lime.

Off-dry with crisp acidity and bubbles providing symmetry. Excellent length and ready to drink. (ES)

Pale gold. Beguiling notes of sweet pear, fresh citrus and a hint of honey over

× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/

HENRY OF PELHAM ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2016, NIAGARA ($19.95) BRIGHT STRAW IN COLOUR WITH A SPICY, SMOKY, GRAPHITE NOSE OF APPLE AND AN OAKY NOTE. MEDIUM-BODIED AND DRY WITH APPLE AND PEAR FLAVOURS. WELL-BALANCED AND FRESH WITH GOOD LENGTH. TBY TONY ASPLER

chalky notes. Delicate acidity with a round and full mouth feel. Fruity taste but a tad bitter in the long finish. Great at this stage, so don’t wait too long. (GBQc) SUMMERHILL VINEYARDS CIPES BRUT NV, VQA OKANAGAN VALLEY ($25)

Floral scents, creamy brioche and a suggestion of hazelnut on the nose, with pronounced citrus flavour, firm mineral and lively, refreshing acidity. Although a blend of Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc, the Riesling character dominates, with the other grapes adding a little weight and roundness. (SW)

VINCENT CARÊME BRUT 2014, VOUVRAY, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE ($25)

Very pale and only a few, short-lived bubbles. Fresh nose, fruity and elegant.

Clean, fresh taste of white fruits and developing mushroom notes. Great balance from start to finish with good length. Drink soon for a great start to a fine dinner. (GBQc) L’ACADIE VINEYARDS MÉTHODE TRADITIONELLE VINTAGE CUVÉE ROSÉ 2015, NOVA SCOTIA ($30)

Light blush in colour with attractively scented red berry, floral and vanilla biscuit on the nose and lively berry fruit with subtle cherry and cranberry flavours supported by good, persistent mousse.

Finishes with mineral grip, bracing but not overbearing acidity and a hint of caramel. Certified organic. (SW)

FLAT ROCK CELLARS RIDDLED SPARKLING 2010, JORDAN STATION, ONTARIO ($30)

Traditionally made 100% Chardonnay sparkler aged on the lees for 5+ years.

Possesses a lovely nose of brioche, yeastytoasty notes, soft lemon, creamy apple and mineral notes with a mousse that starts vigorously then mellows into a gentle bead. It is fresh, lively and complex on the palate with pear and apple flavours, bright, zesty citrus, and electric acidity driving the back end. (RV) FITZPATRICK FAMILY VINEYARDS FITZ BRUT 2013, VQA OKANAGAN VALLEY ($32)

A very good blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that spent 27 months on the lees.

Shows very fine persistent bead with elegant floral scents, ripe citrus, vanilla and brioche. Citrus and green apple flavours come with appealing creaminess, contrasting mineral and lively acidity. (SW) ROEDERER ESTATE BRUT SPARKLING NV, MENDOCINO, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES ($38)

Light straw in colour with lively effervescence. On the nose, it’s leesy, with apple, notes of white blossoms and a touch of honey. Medium-bodied, dry, beautifully balanced, elegant, crisp and lingering. (TA) LAMBERT DE SEYSSEL ROYAL SEYSSEL GRAND CRU REGIONAL 2015, FRANCE ($38)

This unusual Méthode Traditionelle

bubble is a 50/50 blend of two Savoie regional varieties, Molette and Altesse.

Bottle aged for 36 months prior to release, it shows burnished gold in the glass with fine mousse, green fruit and subtle honeycomb scents. The green fruit theme persists on the palate, suggesting ripe green apple with elusive, exotic kiwi fruit overtones. Bright acidity and stony mineral contrast with the creaminess and lingering fruitiness on the finish. (SW) SPERLING VINEYARDS BRUT RESERVE 2011, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($55)

A traditionally made sparkler made from 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay from vines planted in 2008. The nose displays brioche/leesy/smoky/mineral notes with bright citrus, toast, apple skin and fresh, fresh, fresh waves of salinity. It’s electric on the palate with tiny, persistent beads of bubbles and electric acidity to accentuate the freshness in the mouth. Shows tension and finesse with perky citrus and apple notes on a crisp and perfectly dry finish. (RV) LE MESNIL GRAND CRU BLANC DE BLANCS CHAMPAGNE 2009, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($62)

Bright straw in colour with an active mousse of tiny bubbles. Nutty, toasty, baked apple bouquet with a light floral note. Medium-bodied, dry and mature.

Apple and green-nut flavours plus a long, lemony finish give the wine great length. (TA) FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 45

BUYING GUIDE WHITE UNDER $20

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA CATENA HIGH MOUNTAIN VINES CHARDONNAY 2016, MENDOZA ($19.95)

An obvious, oaky and upfront Chardonnay with loads of pineapple, mango, lemon, yellow apple and honey. The palate is creamy and buttery, with a strike of acidity that provides lift. Fine length.

Pairs well with halibut or salmon. (ES)

CANADA ARROWLEAF CELLARS PINOT GRIS 2016, LAKE COUNTRY, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($16)

Lifted notes of stone-fruit orchard and floral hints, followed by a fresh, quite juicy palate of apple and pear with a streak of minerality and a clean, fresh finish. (TP) SPERLING VINEYARDS THE MARKET WHITE 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($16)

Well-balanced blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris shows orchard and tropical notes up front, followed by a refreshing, slightly off-dry palate with a touch of citrus and peach, buoyed by good acidity. (TP) CAVE SPRING CELLARS ESTATE BOTTLED CHARDONNAY MUSQUÉ 2015, NIAGARA ($17)

Chardonnay Musqué is an aromatic clone of Chardonnay, a grape that Cave Spring Cellars has made its own. The 2015 46 @ QUENCH_MAG

vintage is bright straw in colour with a Muscat-like nose of ripe apples. Medium-bodied in weight, it’s dry with apple and green melon flavours that finishes on a lemony note. (TA) STONEBOAT VINEYARDS GRAVEL BAR CHORUS 2016, LOWER BLACK SAGE BENCH, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($17)

Aromatic blend of old-vine Schönburger (51.8%), Müller-Thurgau (44%) and Pinot Blanc (4.2%), all fermented separately, yields a juicy mélange of melon and orchard fruits. Mouth-filling supported by good acidity with some leesy notes and flinty hints to close. (TP) FITZPATRICK FAMILY VINEYARDS INTERLOPER GEWÜRTZTRAMINER 2016, VQA OKANAGAN VALLEY ($18)

A late-picked Alsatian style offering elegant, aromatic floral and leesy scents with a touch of pepper and classic varietal rose-petal notes. Rounded, generous fruit flavours showcase prominent apricot character with balancing acidity and mineral grip. (SW)

VINELAND ESTATES ELEVATION ST. URBAN RIESLING 2016, NIAGARA ($20)

St. Urban is one of the most important Riesling vineyards in Ontario. The nose shows bright, vibrant lime zest and citrus, apple skin, summer peach and stony minerality. Just wow on the palate: an initial blast of lemon-lime then Honeycrisp apple and peach, then waves of wet stone that is all perfectly balanced by racy acidity that runs through the core. (RV)

CHILE CORNELLANA RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2016, CACHAPOAL VALLEY ($12)

Clear, pale yellow. Peach, pineapple and orange aromas, accented with a bit of oak, on a fairly robust nose. Medium-bodied and fruit-forward (peach and citrus flavours) but zesty acidity and a slight bitterness on the long finish keep it interesting. Great value for a house Chard.

Drink up. (RL)*

FRANCE ARROWLEAF CELLARS RIESLING 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($18)

Upfront apple, tropical and citrus notes before a clean, refreshing apple-skin and citrus palate underpinned by good acidity with a hint of minerality in the finish. (TP) HENRY OF PELHAM ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2016, NIAGARA ($19.95)

Bright straw in colour with a spicy, smoky, graphite nose of apple and an oaky note. Medium-bodied and dry with apple and pear flavours. Well-balanced and fresh with good length. (TA)

THIERRY DELAUNAY TOURAINE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, LOIRE VALLEY ($15.95)

Pale straw in colour with a fragrant, delicate nose of cut grass, green plum and gooseberry, and a floral note. Medium-bodied, crisply dry with a note of bitterness on the finish. (TA) CAVE VINICOLE À HUNAWIHR MUEHLFORST PINOT GRIS 2015, AOC ALSACE ($17)

Clear, medium-deep gold. Scents of banana and pineapple over a cotton-candy background. Full-bodied on the

XAD ADAMO IN FOLDER

BUYING GUIDE palate with ripe, sweet peach and orange flavours and a long finish. Could perhaps use a bit more acidity. Will last a couple more years. (RL)* CAVE DE ROQUEBRUN LES FIEFS D’AUPENAC 2015, AOC SAINT-CHINIAN, LANGUEDOC ($18)

Bright, pale yellow. Buttery oak, tropical fruit (pineapple, apricot) and hints of smoke. The rich texture is lightened by acidity and you can taste oak-vanilla in the mid-palate. Almost tannic, drying and somewhat warm finish. Drink or hold 2 to 3 years. Will go nicely with fish in a creamy sauce. (GBQc) BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS CHARDONNAY MÂCON-LUGNY SAINT-PIERRE 2015, BURGUNDY ($18.50)

A Burgundian white for less than $20?

Yes, it’s possible! This Chardonnay comes from the warmer Southern end of Burgundy. Despite being oaked, the wood is not the in-your-face type (thank goodness!) but more of the toasty-yeasty-biscuity type. A mélange of ripe pineapples, juicy mangoes and crisp Granny Smith apples will envelop every taste bud on your tongue. Firm acidity and lively minerality are rounded out by the soft, creamy texture derived from aging on the lees. Good length. The perfect companion to pan-seared haddock in a rich butter lemon sauce. (SL) PIERRE SPARR GEWURZTRAMINER 2015, ALSACE ($18.95)

Classic Alsace Gewurz. Light straw in colour with a pronounced nose of rose petals and lychee fruit. Medium-bodied, sweetish lychee and grapefruit flavours tinged with rosewater. (TA) 48 @ QUENCH_MAG

JEAN-LUC COLOMBO LES COLLINES DE LAURE BLANC 2015, MÉDITÉRRANÉE ($19.95)

Méditérranée is a geographical appellation covering wines made in a large area of the southeast coast of France, roughly corresponding to the Provence wine region, as well as part of the Rhône Valley. This delicious white wine comes from the Rhône end. A blend of Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc and Rolle (aka, Vermentino), it’s bright straw in colour with a nose of peaches and pine needles.

Medium- to full-bodied, it’s dry and richly extracted with flavours of peach and citrus fruit. (TA)

GERMANY

SOUTH AFRICA GOATS DO ROAM WHITE 2016, WESTERN CAPE ($11.95)

A punning label from Fairview winery that uses only Rhône grape varieties. This is a blend of Viognier, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc. Light straw in colour, it offers a minerally, peachy nose. It’s medium- to full-bodied, dry with peach and lemon flavours and a thread of minerality.

Really good value. (TA) RUSTENBERG CHARDONNAY 2015, STELLENBOSCH ($19.95)

A lime tint, showing a nose of spicy apple, green nuts and a touch of barnyard. Medium- to full-bodied, dry, spicy and rich on the palate with a toasty, apple flavour and great length. (TA)

LOOSEN BROS. DR. L RIESLING 2016, MOSEL ($14.95)

Super value here. Very pale straw in colour with a minerally, honeyed, citrus nose. Light-bodied (8.5% alcohol) and off-dry, featuring honey and grapefruit flavours with a mineral thread. (TA)

NEW ZEALAND BRANCOTT ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, MARLBOROUGH ($15.95)

If, like me, you’re a fan of Sauvignon Blanc, you’re going to like this one.

Straw-coloured, this refreshing wine has a nose of rhubarb and grapefruit.

Medium-bodied and dry, flavours of tart gooseberry and lime fill the palate and linger for an unconscionably long time. You may have heard this before but it’s the perfect opener with hors d’oeuvres. (TA)

SPAIN HONORO VERA BLANCO 2016, RUEDA DO ($19)

Opens with intriguing and aromatic pineapple and citrus on the nose. Similar tropical-fruit flavours in the mouth show lively intensity balanced by crisply refreshing acidity. The vibrant fruit character and crisp finish create easy-to-like charm. (SW) EL BONHOMME BLANCO 2016, VALENCIA DO ($20)

Made in her own winery in the Valencia region by well-travelled Québécoise Nathalie Bonhomme, this blend of Malvasia and Viognier offers floral, fresh stone fruit and mineral character with good intensity and additional complexity added by a subtle touch of oak. (SW)

finish. A good value and a good match with roast chicken and pork. (GB)

RECOMMENDED CANADA EVOLVE CELLARS VIOGNIER 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($17)

Upfront floral and stone-fruit aromas announce an understated palate of peach and apricot supported by moderate acidity before a fresh, light finish. (TP)

CHILE MIGUEL TORRES SANTA DIGNA SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVE 2016, CENTRAL VALLEY ($14.95)

A punchy Sauv Blanc that leans towards the grassy/jalapeno end of the spectrum.

You will also find grapefruit, lime, passion fruit and fruit salad. Popping acidity and fine length round out the package. (ES)

FRANCE ORMARINE LES PINS DE CAMILLE 2016, AOC PICPOUL-DE-PINET, LANGUEDOC ($13)

Pale yellow. Apple/pear nose with notes of freshly harvested shells. Soft acidity, a trace of CO2 and good fruity presence in the mid-palate. Balanced finish on more white fruit notes. Drink now. (GBQc) CAVE VINICOLE À HUNAWIHR RIESLING 2015, AOC ALSACE ($15)

Clear, medium-deep yellow. Medium-intensity nose of key lime pie with some additional citrus and custardy notes.

On the palate, more lime and custard flavours. Slightly sweet, pleasant and easy-drinking without any particularly unique attributes. Drink up. (RL)* CAVE VINICOLE À HUNAWIHR PINOT BLANC 2015, AOC ALSACE ($15)

Clear, pale gold. Medium-intensity nose of orange, pear and apple. Light-bodied.

Somewhat neutral apple flavours from a versatile if not especially characterful varietal. A good background wine when food is intended to be the star. Drink up. (RL)* PAUL MAS VIOGNIER 2016, PAYS D’OC ($18)

Bright, tangy and aromatic, with ripe peach, pear, apricot and spice character.

Full texture and slightly alcoholic on the

BARON DE HOEN GEWURZTRAMINER 2015, ALSACE ($18.95)

A powerful nose of honey, ripe peach, rose, mango, lychee, cold cream and spice spill over onto an off-dry palate. There is sound acidity, a touch of heat and great length. Serve alongside Thai spring rolls or Chicken Tikka Masala. (ES)

UNITED STATES KENDALL-JACKSON VINTNER’S RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2016, CALIFORNIA ($19.95)

Once again, award-winning Kendall-Jackson proves its reliability with a delicious (and very affordable) Chardonnay. Aromas of warm vanilla and honeyed orchard fruit will greet you at first. Luscious pineapple, ripe papaya and juicy mango flavours then follow, dancing in your mouth. Round, supple and creamy mouth feel with subtle hints of toasted oak and buttered brioche.

Lively acidity pushes through on the finish, providing a harmonious and balanced wine. Very approachable, exceptionally food-friendly and terrific value make it the perfect staple for festive holiday celebrations or any other day. (SL)

$20.01 TO $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA MISSION HILL SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVE 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($21)

Lifted aromas of fresh citrus and tropical hints precede a palate of lemon and lychee, pineapple and passion fruit, all wrapped in juicy acidity with a clear, bright finish. (TP) STONEBOAT VINEYARDS ALESSIO 2016, LOWER BLACK SAGE BENCH, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($21)

Pinot Blanc (85%) fermented for 3 weeks followed by 2 months on “light” lees, then blended with 15% Müller-Thurgau. Floral and stone-fruit aromas precede a gently citrus palate with peach-pit and tropical notes and some zesty peel in the finish. (TP)

HESTER CREEK TERRA UNICA RIESLING 2016, GOLDEN MILE BENCH, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($23)

Inaugural release. Biodynamically and dry farmed, stainless-steel fermented. Lifted apple, stone-fruit and citrus notes followed by a crisp and clean palate buoyed by moderate acidity with some zesty notes through a refreshing end. (TP) OKANAGAN CRUSH PAD NARRATIVE PINOT BLANC 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($23)

A stand-alone bottling of Pinot Blanc, concrete-fermented with native yeast.

Aging for 8 months yields upfront notes of tropical fruit, pear and floral notes, followed by a creamy, textured and luscious palate supported by good acidity, tropical and honeysuckle notes, and a hint of mineral. (TP) HESTER CREEK CHARDONNAY 2016, GOLDEN MILE BENCH, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($25)

Aromas of toasty oak and vanilla with citrus hints before a mouth-filling palate of orchard and stone fruits, with some creamy notes before a juicy, lingering finish. (TP) FORT BERENS WHITE GOLD CHARDONNAY 2015, LILLOOET, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($26)

Made with 100% estate-grown fruit, half wild-yeast-fermented and aged for 6 months in new French oak. Aromas of stone fruit and tropical hints on the nose precede a well-textured palate with generous mouth feel, some vanilla and toasty notes before a lingering close. (TP) FLAT ROCK CELLARS RUSTY SHED CHARDONNAY 2013, ONTARIO ($27)

Robust and generous on the nose with beautiful aromas of pear, flint, citrus and toasted vanilla and spice. Such gorgeous texture and verve on the palate to better express the creamy baked apple and pear fruit with finishing citrus and spice accents. Deep and complex with balancing acidity. (RV)

SPERLING VINEYARDS AMBER PINOT GRIS 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($30)

This is an “orange” or “amber” natural wine made with nothing added and nothing taken away (no sulphites or other additives, and no fining or filtration).

In the glass, it’s slightly cloudy with a brilliant, glowing amber hue. It’s not a fruity nose in the traditional sense, but

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 49

BUYING GUIDE more of a stone-fruit and melon expression with umami undertones and earthy, pulpy, orange zest accents that change as you swirl, adding black tea, mineral and savoury notes. There is a rounded feel on the palate; pulpy citrus, fuzzy peach, melon, mineral and citrus zest with underlying forest floor. Subtle notes of foraged mushrooms evoke that umami feel through the finish. (RV) VINELAND ESTATES ST. URBAN CHARDONNAY MUSQUÉ 2016, NIAGARA ($30)

A skin-fermented white wine with skin contact for 58 days. It shows a pale-ish amber colour in the glass with bold and intense aromas of pulpy orchard fruits, orange rind, leesy notes, melon, tangerine and raw almonds. It has an earthy/ funky profile on the palate with maturing apples, citrus pulp and light tannic structure to go with melon, grapefruit and a soft underbelly that messes with your perception of what a white wine is. (RV) BIG HEAD SAVAGNIN 2016, NIAGARA ($30)

This unusual varietal, at least in Niagara, was hand picked with 50% of the fruit kiln-dried for 2 weeks and then finished in stainless steel. Just starting to show a range of pear, herbs, lychee and apple, with a floral thing going on. Opens up on the palate with bright, slightly sweet notes of creamy pear, apple skin, subtle citrus and grassy/herb notes held together by racy acidity. (RV)

TWO SISTERS RIESLING 2016, NIAGARA ($35)

Off-dry with a lot of acidic tension, this crisp white doles out the pear, apple, lemon zest, nectarine and mineral. Excellent length and ready to be paired with arancini or oysters on the half shell. (ES) 50 @ QUENCH_MAG

FRANCE WILLIAM FÈVRE CHAMPS ROYAUX CHABLIS 2015, BURGUNDY ($24.95)

Pale straw in colour with a minerally apple and peach nose. Medium-bodied, crisply dry and beautifully balanced with clean apple and lemon flavours. (TA) VINCENT CARÊME VOUVRAY 2015, LOIRE VALLEY ($27)

Pale yellow with grey reflections. Rich nose of quince, pear, beeswax and honey with dry stone notes. Balanced acidity, rich texture and almost thick. Intense, fresh fruity taste fills the mouth in a beautiful way. Long, full finish. Already great, it will last up to 10 years. (GBQc)

BODEGAS ALVEAR PEDRO XIMENEZ DE ANADA 2014, ANDALUCIA ($24.95)

If you are a fan of super-rich stickies with low acidity, then this wine falls right into your wheelhouse. Unctuous, there are masses of toffee, burnt sugar, Amaretto, maple syrup, dried figs and dates. There is a brilliant finale with over 400 g/l of sugar.

Needs a good chill before serving. (ES) GOTAS DE MAR ALBARIÑO 2016, DO RIAS BAIXAS ($30)

Aromatic stone fruit, citrus and mineral on the nose with bright yellow-fruit intensity on the palate and an agreeable touch of almond bitterness on the finish. (SW)

OVER $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED GERMANY MAX FERDINAND RICHTER MULHEIMER SONNENLAY RIESLING QBA ZEPPELIN LABEL 2015, MOSEL ($24)

Aromas of apple, citrus and mineral, fresh with great purity. Rich flavours of apples, citrus and spice with juicy acidity that balances the residual sweetness. Finishes long, refreshing and minerally. A fantastic value and great match with Asian cuisine, spicy food and schnitzel. (GB)

SPAIN BODEGAS VETUS FLOR DE VETUS VERDEJO 2015, RUEDA ($24)

Round, full and expressive with melon, citrus, pear, herbal and floral notes. Fresh and lively with a salty, mineral quality and soft acidity. 100% Verdejo so it needs a light dish to match. (GB)

CANADA HAYWIRE FREE FORM WHITE 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($35)

There is nothing added, nothing taken away in this natural wine made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc. The nose is all about fresh grapefruit, herbs, newly cut hay, citrus rind and lemon. Such gorgeous texture on the palate, and completely dry, with expressive grapefruit, lemon tart, interesting savoury herbs and grass, plus waves of freshening citrus acidity. (RV) RENNIE ESTATE CHRISTINE CHARDONNAY 2015, VQA BEAMSVILLE BENCH, ONTARIO ($40)

This Chard has a rich and voluptuous nose of baked apple, creamy pear, lemon accents and elegant oak stylings. It’s a robust style with richness of fruit and the

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BUYING GUIDE HAYWIRE GAMAY NOIR 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($27) FERMENTED IN LARGE CONCRETE VATS, PRESSED AFTER A 4-WEEK MACERATION, THEN AGED IN CONCRETE FOR 11 MONTHS WITH NO RACKING OR FILTRATION. ON THE NOSE, LOOK FOR BRIGHT CHERRY FRUIT, RASPBERRY, BRAMBLE, FOREST BERRIES AND RED PLUMS. THIS IS ALL ABOUT THE JUICY RED FRUITS, TOUCHES OF EARTH AND LIQUORICE ALL DELIVERED ON A SUPER-SMOOTH FINISH. TBY RICK VANSICKLE

spice to match. Look for creamy orchard fruit and barrel oak spices with a fair amount of acidity to keep it balanced and fresh through the finish. (RV) BIG HEAD WINES CHENIN BLANC 2016, ONTARIO ($45)

This botrytis-affected Chenin took nearly 10 months to begin fermenting naturally in concrete and a year to complete the journey. The nose teems with poached pear, rich orchard fruits, honeycomb, ginger, jasmine and toasted almonds. It has depth and power on the palate with layered pear notes, mango, ginger, Mandarin orange and citrus rind that is altogether ripe yet nearly perfectly dry and fresh on the finish. (RV) RENNIE ESTATE “SUPER G” ASSEMBLAGE 2014, ONTARIO ($100)

The Cabernet Sauvignon fruit is dried for 86 days then tucked away in all-new French oak barrels for 22 months and finished at 16% abv. It has a showy and concentrated nose of blackcurrant jam, blackberries, cherries, graphite, earth, tar, 52 @ QUENCH_MAG

bramble and a crazy array of barrel spice notes. It shows waves of bountiful dark fruits, kirsch and raspberry accents, and a wall of tannins assertive enough to curl your tongue until the next sip. This wine is only beginning to show itself — those fine oak spices, sweet tobacco notes and mélange of lush fruit. Cellar 5+ years. (RV)

FRANCE

palate. Shows uncharacteristic ripeness and higher alcohol (13%), typical of the 2015 vintage. (SW) CAVE DE TURCKHEIM GRAND CRU RIESLING 2013, ALSACE ($37.95)

Light straw in colour with a hint of green.

Petrol, grapefruit and lime on the nose with a touch of honey. Medium-bodied, dry and mature. Grapefruit and elderberry flavours with a long, luxurious finish. (TA)

LA CHABLISIENNE GRANDE CUVÉE CHABLIS 2015, BURGUNDY ($31.95)

JEAN-MAX ROGER SANCERRE VIEILLES VIGNES 2015, LOIRE VALLEY ($39.95)

GUY SAGET POUILLY-FUMÉ 2015, AC LOIRE ($37)

WILLIAM FÈVRE MONTMAINS CHABLIS 2014, BURGUNDY ($39.95)

Straw-coloured with a green tint. Minerally, toasty, apple nose with a hint of the barnyard. Medium-bodied, dry, spicy, mouth-filling and richly extracted. Quite fulsome and round on the palate for Chablis but from a warm vintage. (TA)

Aromatic, grassy herbal and green-fruit scents with a suggestion of passion fruit evolve into full-flavoured gooseberry with pungent mineral and lively acidity on the

Light straw in colour with a green hue.

Intense lanolin and green-plum bouquet with spicy vanilla-oak notes. Medium-bodied and dry. Gooseberry and grapefruit flavours. Well-balanced with zippy acidity. (TA)

Bright, light straw in colour with an apple nose augmented by oak spice and a thread of minerality. Medium-bodied and dry.

Lemony apple flavour and firm finish. (TA)

SOUTH AFRICA

JEAN BAPTISTE PONSOT MOLESME RULLY 2015, BURGUNDY ($43.95)

A stunningly attractive Chardonnay from a much-overlooked region.

Straw-coloured with a lime tint. Spicy, toasty, apple nose with a light barnyard note. Medium-bodied, dry and elegant, with well-balanced apple and green peach flavours. Lively and fresh on the palate with great length. (TA)

HAMILTON RUSSELL VINEYARDS CHARDONNAY 2016, HEMEL-EN-AARDE VALLEY, WALKER BAY ($55)

Seamless, harmonious and seductive.

Bright, rich and vibrant with fresh acidity, great length and complexity. Refined with a refreshing minerality and a long, lifted finish. A benchmark for the region. (GB)

PICARD LE CHARMOIS SAINT-AUBIN 2014, BURGUNDY ($57.95)

Straw-coloured with a smoky, struck-flint nose of apples and a barnyard note developing. Medium-bodied and crisply dry.

Green apple and green pineapple flavours are carried on lively acidity. (TA) DOMAINE SERVIN BOUGROS GRAND CRU CHABLIS 2013, BURGUNDY ($69.95)

Yellow straw in colour with a lime tint.

High-toned, barnyard nose of apple and melon. Medium-bodied with richly extracted toasty-nutty, apple and orange flavours. Quite mature and forward with a macadamia-nut finish. (TA)

ITALY MONTENIDOLI VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO FIORE 2015, TUSCANY ($38)

Lightly floral and fresh with citrus aromas and flavours. Hint of fresh herbs, subtle and elegant, finishing with a hint of blanched almond and nice length. A lovely match with whitefish and shellfish. (GB)

PORTUGAL HERDADE DO ROCIM VINHO AMPHORA BRANCO 2015, DOC ALENTEJO ($32)

Entirely organic, this is a natural wine, made using clay amphorae in the ancient way, together with wild yeasts and without filtration. Blend of three little-known indigenous varieties. Unlike some “natural wines” I have tasted, this one is very clean with yellow-fruit flavours that are hard to pin down but are, nonetheless, pleasant and persist, along with lightly bitter notes through the finish. Not for everyone, but worth a try. Great with a rabbit dish or simply on its own. (SW)

UNITED STATES REX HILL SEVEN SOILS CHARDONNAY 2014, WILLAMETTE VALLEY ($36.95)

A spicy, oaky, toasty nose of apples and grilled nuts. Full-bodied, dry, and richly extracted. Buttery, apple and lemon flavours with an engaging note of bitterness on the finish. (TA)

by a floral grace note. Lively on the palate, it finishes firmly with ripe tannins. (TA) FINCA LAS PALMAS GRAN RESERVA MALBEC 2014, UCO VALLEY ($16.95)

At the time of writing, the LCBO carried 178 Malbecs — not all from Argentina, but mostly. So, what to choose? Well, this is one of the best values in terms of price/ quality. Dense purple in colour, it offers a cedary plum bouquet with mocha-chocolate notes. Medium- to full-bodied and dry, it’s well-structured with spicy plum flavours riding on lively acidity. (TA) DOÑA PAULA ESTATE MALBEC 2015, MENDOZA ($16.95)

Spicy-cedary nose of plum and an engaging light floral note. Medium-bodied, dry, fruity and floral but firm on the palate with red-plum and blackcurrant flavours and chalky tannins on the finish. (TA) LUIGI BOSCA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, MENDOZA ($19.95)

ROSÉ CLOS DE LA GRANGE DES MOINES 2016, AOP COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES, FRANCE ($13)

Clear, medium-deep orangey-pink. Made from a mixture of varietals, but the smell of red-candied-apple coating emphasizes the Grenache, accompanied by other aromas of Spartan apple, banana and even a bit of cinnamon. Light-bodied, simple and a bit diluted, it tastes of mixed fresh red berries. Short finish. Drink up. (RL)*

RED

A full-bodied Malbec with loads of blackberry, plum, dark cherry, raspberry, spice, cocoa and vanilla. Tannins are firm, so hold for 1 or 2 years then drink over the next 6 years. (ES) CATENA MALBEC HIGH MOUNTAIN VINES 2015, MENDOZA ($19.95)

Medium-plus body, purple/red colour and loads of plum, blackberry, raspberry, violets, herbs, spice and vanilla. Excellent length and some fine tannins round out the package. Lamb burgers or ratatouille would be delicious with this wine. (ES)

AUSTRALIA WALTZING MATILDA SHIRAZ GRENACHE 2016, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($16.95)

UNDER $20

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA ARGENTO RESERVA MALBEC 2014, MENDOZA ($13.95)

A wallet-friendly wine. Dense purple in colour, it has a smoky struck-flint, plum and cherry nose. At 14% alcohol, it’s full-bodied and dry, with savoury-herbal blackberry and plum flavours augmented

Who can guess from which country this wine comes from? Deep purple-ruby in colour with a bouquet of blackberries, white pepper and an herbal note.

Full-bodied and dry, it’s fruit-driven and not very complex but juicy and flavourful.

Ideal for red-meat BBQs or whatever’s in your tucker bag, mate. (TA) SHINGLEBACK WINE RED KNOT SHIRAZ 2015, MCLAREN VALE ($20)

Fleshy, ripe-berry fruit on the nose with good depth of blackberry and

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 53

BUYING GUIDE raspberry flavours in a well-balanced, medium-weight package, finishing with a splash of chocolate on the well-integrated finish. (SW)

CANADA CAVE SPRING CELLARS CABERNET FRANC 2015, ONTARIO ($17.95)

Of all the Bordeaux varieties grown in Ontario, Cabernet Franc is the most reliable and consistent vintage to vintage. And 2015 is one of the best vintages of the 2000s. Dense purple in colour, it shows a cedary, black-fruit nose with a minty note, elevated with vanilla-oak. Medium-bodied and dry, it’s an elegant, polished wine with plum and currant flavours, lively acidity and good balance. (TA) EVOLVE CELLARS SHIRAZ 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($20)

Aromas of red fruit and vanilla, medium- to full-bodied palate of ripe blackberry and cassis with tobacco hints, firm tannins and some heat in the close. Can’t wait till BBQ season. (TP)

CHILE MANCURA GRAN RESERVA SYRAH/ CABERNET FRANC/MERLOT 2013, CASABLANCA VALLEY ($17.95)

Dense purple-black in colour, you experience an intense blackcurrant aroma on the nose with spicy, cedary notes of oak.

Medium-bodied and dry with a concentrated flavour of blackcurrants carried on lively acidity and finishing firmly with ripe tannins. (TA) 54 @ QUENCH_MAG

FRANCE CHÂTEAU CANET 2014, AOP MINERVOIS ($16)

Clear, deep garnet with a pinkish rim.

Fairly robust nose of raspberry, blackberry and blueberry, also sweet almond and a definite tinge of maple syrup. Medium-bodied, with simple, juicy red-berry flavours. Tannins still noticeable, but this is drinking best now. (RL)*

hints of leather. Medium-plus body with very good length and grippy tannins.

Nice with a steak. (ES) DOMAINE CAZES MARIE-GABRIELLE 2016, CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON ($18)

Dark ruby, purplish rim. Blackberry, cassis, vanilla-oak notes and hints of earthiness. Full-bodied, intense dark-fruit taste with a ripe, tight mid-palate and powdery tannins. Warm finish of good length.

Drink or hold for up to 2 years. (GBQc)

BRETON REYES OCCI 2014, LANGUEDOC ($17)

Dark ruby. Blackberry, blackcurrant, herbs and spices plus a fresh mint note.

Soft attack, fruity, full taste in the granular mid-palate. Yummy finish, round and very fruity. Ready to enjoy. (GBQc) CHÂTEAU CAZAL-VIEL SYRAH/GRENACHE 2014, SAINT-CHINIAN, LANGUEDOC ($17)

Dark ruby with a purple rim. Sweet blackberries, jam, soft spices and hints of smoke from the oak. Full-bodied, warm on the palate with dry, powdery tannins and generous fruit. You can feel the sunshine in this ready-to-drink red, but you could also wait 1 to 2 years. (GBQc) DOMAINE D’AUPILHAC LOU MASET 2015, LANGUEDOC ($17)

Ruby-purplish. Sweet-and-sour red berries and spicy notes. Delicious, clean fruity taste. Nice balance with finely grained ripe tannins in the half-bodied mid-palate showing a little grip in the finish. Drink soon. (GBQc)

GÉRARD BERTRAND SAINT-CHINIAN 2015, LANGUEDOC ($17.95)

A warm red with cassis, raspberry, violets, black pepper, rosemary, mint and

ITALY ALLEGRINI VENETO ROSSO DI FUMANE 2015, VENETO ($15.15)

A blend of Corvina and Rondinella, the major grapes in Valpolicella and Amarone. Deep ruby colour with a cedary-spicy, plum and cherry nose. Medium-bodied, dry and fresh, with nicely integrated oak and lively acidity, offering flavours of sour cherry and red plum with a firm tannic finish. (TA) SAN FELICE 2015, CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG ($17)

Shows good depth of flavour with medium weight and smoothly rounded, well-integrated cherry fruit accented by a splash of dark chocolate, finishing with moderate tannic grip. (SW) ZENATO LUGANA DI SAN BENEDETTO 2016, LAKE GARDA ($17.95)

Made from a local grape called Trebbiano di Lugana, which is related to the Verdicchio family. Bright straw in colour with a minerally, green-melon nose. Medium-bodied, dry and well-balanced, with ripe melon and lemon flavours. (TA)

SOUTH AFRICA ORIGIN STELLENBOSCH DRIVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, STELLENBOSCH ($15.95)

AUSTRALIA

$20.01 TO $35

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

SUNNYCLIFF ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014 ($10)

This blend of 60% Cabernet and 40% Merlot is dense purple-ruby in colour. It has a cedary, red- and blackcurrant nose with an oaky note. Medium-bodied and dry, it’s firmly structured and well-balanced with blackcurrant and cherry flavours. (TA)

Clear, medium-deep mature garnet.

Medium-intensity nose of blueberry jam, raisin pie, violets and some leather and varnish notes. On the palate, the cherry fruit still tastes fresh but a bit jammy.

Nicely balanced but teetering on the edge of old age. Drink up. (RL)*

AUSTRALIA TWO HANDS SEXY BEAST CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016, MCLAREN VALE ($27.95)

Dense purple in colour with a cedary, blackcurrant, plum and moist earth nose.

Medium- to full-bodied, the wine is dry, fruity and voluptuous with a lively spine of acidity and a firm finish. (TA)

CANADA SPAIN BERONIA RIOJA TEMPRANILLO ELABORACIÓN ESPECIAL 2012, RIOJA ($16.95)

Deep ruby in colour, aromas of red berries and cherries rise from the glass with notes of vanilla-oak and the forest floor. On the palate, medium-bodied and dry, with lively acidity and ripe, fine-grained tannins. Flavours of cherry melded with the spicy vanilla-oak fill the palate. (TA) HACIENDA VALVARES 2012, RIOJA ($18.95)

Dense purple in colour with a spicy, hightoned nose of red plums and a cedary note. Medium-bodied and dry on the palate, it’s firmly structured with plum and red-berry flavours carried on lively acidity to a firm, tannic finish. (TA) TORRES HABITAT GARNACHA/SYRAH 2015, CATALUNYA ($19.95)

Organically grown, this perfumed red pumps out blackberry/cherry jam alongside clove, smoke, rosemary, flowers and cocoa. Already drinking beautifully so pair alongside paella or lamb chops. (ES)

HENRY OF PELHAM CABERNET/MERLOT 2016, NIAGARA ($14.95)

A versatile, well-priced Bordeaux blend, which features cassis, plum, raspberry, herbs, smoke and spice. Medium-bodied and perfect for those pasta and pizza evenings. (ES)

ARGENTINA DOÑA PAULA ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, MENDOZA ($16.95)

Ruby-plum in colour. Cedary, spicy, plum and redcurrant nose with a light floral note. Medium-bodied and dry, with fragrant redcurrant and orange peel flavours. Firmly structured with evident but ripe tannins. (TA)

A bold, brazen Shiraz sporting 16% alcohol. Dense purple-black in colour, it has a cedary, iodine nose of blackberries.

Full-bodied and richly extracted, it offers blackberry and plum flavours with a floral note. Fleshy and opulent, it’s well-balanced with good length. (TA)

FRANCE CANADA CHÂTEAU CAZAL-VIEL CUVÉE VIEILLES VIGNES 2015, LANGUEDOC ($12)

Ruby-purplish. Red fruits, a little spice and garrigue; no oak. Medium-bodied, slightly coarse tannins. Almost balanced, only a bit heavy on alcohol. Nice finish. (GBQc) CHÂTEAU DES ESTANILLES L’IMPERTINENT 2015, FAUGÈRES, LANGUEDOC ($17)

Ruby purplish. Garrigue and red berries on spicy oaky notes. Tangy acidity, fresh fruity taste. Soft tannins in a medium-bodied mid-palate. Drink up. (GBQc)

PORTUGAL HERDADE DO ROCIM MARIANA TINTO 2016, VINHO REGIONAL ALENTEJANO ($16)

RECOMMENDED

MOLLYDOOKER THE BOXER SHIRAZ 2016, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($32.95)

Offers gently perfumed fresh fruity expression with sweet, ripe candied cherry flavours in an easy-drinking, uncomplicated style. (SW) ALTIVO RED 2015, DÃO ($12.95)

Dense purple in colour, it has a spicy nose of blackberries and pencil lead. Medium-bodied and dry, it’s well-balanced and firmly structured with a lovely, velvety mouth feel. A house wine contender. (TA)

STONEBOAT VINEYARDS PINOT NOIR 2014, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($22)

Floral and wild red-berry notes up front with earthy hints before a light- to medium-bodied palate of wild raspberry and cherry above a definite savoury streak.

Well-integrated firm tannins with spicy notes through the close. (TP) MOON CURSER VINEYARDS SYRAH 2015, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($23)

Well-managed French and Hungarian oak brings heft and added texture to this vibrant, varietally true expression, with forward meaty-gamey and spice notes before a well-balanced, integrated palate with supple tannins below layers of black cherry, toasty notes and black pepper through a lengthy finish. (TP) MOON CURSER VINEYARDS DOLCETTO 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($23)

An impressive Inaugural release from 3-year-old vines. Blue and black fruit on the nose with some cedar hints and inky purple in the glass. Bright, fresh-crushed berry fruit entry with intense damson, black cherry and mulberry. Spice and leather notes, with a slightly savoury edge, through a juicy mid-palate to a peppery finish. (TP) FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 55

BUYING GUIDE HENRY OF PELHAM SPECK FAMILY RESERVE BACO NOIR 2016, SHORT HILLS BENCH ($24.95)

HOP’s finest Baco Noir to date! Full-bodied, it exudes loads of blackberry, plum, dark cherry, chocolate, vanilla, hickory and baking spice. Great concentration and density as well as excellent length.

Drink until 2023, preferably with braised dishes. (ES) FORT BERENS CABERNET FRANC 2015, LILLOOET, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($25)

Made primarily with fruit from Lillooet, supplemented by fruit from Road 9 and Blind Creek. Forward notes of red berries and spice precede a medium-bodied palate defined by good acidity and mouth feel. Well textured with raspberry, cassis and tea notes with a slightly herbaceous undertone and lingering spicy close. (TP) CEDAR CREEK ESTATE WINERY PINOT NOIR 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($25)

Inviting notes of raspberry and strawberry precede a generous palate of raspberry and vanilla balanced by well-integrated oak and structured but approachable tannins, through a gently spicy finish. (TP) FORT BERENS PINOT NOIR 2015, LILLOOET, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($25)

A blend of 4 clones, all estate-grown in Lillooet. Judicious use of new oak and gentle handling yields aromas of lifted crushed red berries before a light- to medium-bodied palate of cherry, strawberry and vanilla wrapped in supple tannins through a slightly spicy end. (TP) QUAILS’ GATE MERLOT 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($26)

Upfront notes of ripe blue and black 56 @ QUENCH_MAG

fruit and vanilla precede a generous, well-structured palate of plum and blackberry with mocha hints supported by approachable, well-integrated tannins and good acidity through a lengthy, toasty close. (TP) HESTER CREEK SYRAH/VIOGNIER 2015, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($27)

Syrah and a small percentage of Viognier are co-fermented on the skins for 15 days before pressing. Aromas of smoked meat and bacon fat jump from the glass followed by violets, boysenberry, blackberry, earth, fresh-ground pepper and savoury spice notes. The palate reveals dark cherry fruit, cracked black peppercorns and smooth tannins with meaty/savoury notes and bright acidity to keep it lively through the finish. (RV) HAYWIRE PINOT NOIR WHITE LABEL 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($27)

Fermented with native yeast and aged in large concrete tanks for 11 months.

Lifted red fruits, cherry and strawberry notes precede a medium-bodied palate with supple tannins and fresh-crushed berry notes over a darker, savoury background with some earthy undertones and spice notes. (TP) HAYWIRE GAMAY NOIR WHITE LABEL 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($27)

Concrete-fermented with 4 weeks maceration before aging in large concrete tanks for 11 months. Aromas of damson and raspberry precede a luscious, vibrant palate of crushed red berries with good texture, broad mouth feel and very pure fruit flavours, buoyed by juicy acidity, through a lengthy finish. Order some pizza. (TP)

FORT BERENS MERITAGE RESERVE 2015, LILLOOET, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($28)

Displays thick notes of black cherries, blackcurrants, wild berries, expressive barrel spices and melted dark chocolate on the nose. The dark, concentrated cherry fruit dominates on the palate with supporting roles from blackcurrants, anise and elegant spice notes fortified by ripe tannins and structure. (RV) OKANAGAN CRUSH PAD NARRATIVE CABERNET FRANC 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($30)

Distinct varietal nose with vibrant red berries over a hint of herbaceousness, opening to a palate of bright redcurrant and cherry wrapped in approachable tannins and juicy acidity, with some peppery notes before a silky finish. (TP) SPERLING VINEYARDS PINOT NOIR 2015, VQA OKANAGAN VALLEY ($30)

Opens with intense cherry scents, a whiff of cinnamon with clove and green herbal notes. Soft cherry flavours come with moderate tannins and still-youthful acidity. Will benefit from another 1 to 2 years in the cellar. (SW) OKANAGAN CRUSH PAD NARRATIVE SYRAH 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($30)

Organically grown, concrete-aged and fermented Syrah sports upfront lifted aromas of red berries and spice notes before a medium-bodied, silky palate supported by supple tannins, dark cherry, cassis, mocha and black pepper with a fresh, clean finish. (TP) TWO SISTERS CABERNET FRANC RESERVE 2013, NIAGARA RIVER ($37)

Without a doubt, one of the best reds from

J. LOHR HILLTOP CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, PASO ROBLES ($47.95) DENSE PURPLE-BLACK IN COLOUR WITH A CEDARY, VANILLA-OAK AND BAKED-PLUM BOUQUET. FULL-BODIED AND DRY WITH RICHLY EXTRACTED SWEET FRUIT. WELL-BALANCED AND FIRMLY STRUCTURED. HOLD FOR 4 TO 5 YEARS. AN IDEAL COMPANION FOR LAMB CHOPS. TBY TONY ASPLER

the 2013 Vintage, as the combination of low yields and late picking has produced a full-bodied red that pushes 15% alcohol, with a concentrated mid-palate and fabulous length. Quintessential Franc with roasted red pepper, cassis, black raspberry, violets, smoke, black olives and graphite. Drink until 2022. (ES)

Rich and mouth-filling on the palate with a smooth delivery that shows a range of ripe blackberries, anise, red fruits, liquorice, dark chocolate and beautiful spice, all lifted by freshening acidity through a long finish. (RV)

CHILE TWO SISTERS ESTATE RED RESERVE 2012, NIAGARA RIVER ($37)

Another stunning 2012 red from Two Sisters, this one based primarily on Cabernet Sauvignon. There is a lifted personality of cassis, dark plum, raspberry, vanilla, anise and tobacco smoke. Elegant, with a sweet mid-palate and fine tannins. Drink over the next 6 years. Fans of Bordeaux will gravitate to this wine. (ES) VANESSA VINEYARD RIGHT BANK 2014, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($40)

The nose on this Merlot-dominant red blend has a smoky note on first whiff, which turns earthy and brambly before revealing cherries, raspberries, anise, blackcurrants and elegant oak spices.

CONCHA Y TORO TERRUNYO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, MAIPO VALLEY ($35)

Expansive and expensive but well worth trying. Dense purple in colour with a cedary, spicy, blackcurrant nose lifted with vanilla oak. Medium- to full-bodied, dry, richly extracted blackcurrant flavour, firmly structured with a lovely mouth feel and a firm tannic finish. (TA)

vanilla-oak notes. Full-bodied, dry, richly extracted and firmly structured. (TA) CLOS BAGATELLE AU FIL DE SOI 2014, SAIT-CHINIAN, LANGUEDOC ($20)

Ruby purplish. Red fruits (raspberry, cherry) and a touch of menthol brings freshness to the nose. Soft attack and a nice, fruity taste. Finely grained tannins are easy on the palate and the supple finish is very fruity. Ready to drink alongside pasta with meatballs. (GBQc) CHÂTEAU L’ARGENTIER 2013, GRÈS DE MONTPELLIER, LANGUEDOC ($21)

FRANCE

Medium ruby. Fine notes of griottes (a kind of cherry), red berries, cinnamon and a touch of oak. Very soft texture, the fine tannins have barely any grip on the palate for a medium body of great balance. An elegant style of wine. Ready to drink. (GBQc)

CHÂTEAU SAINT-ROCH CHIMÈRES 2015, CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON ($19.95)

LOUIS MAX 2015, BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES AC ($22)

Dense purple in colour with a spicy, blackcurrant and blackberry nose heightened by

Generously scented peppery red fruit opens the way for succulent sour-cherry flavours FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 57

BUYING GUIDE supported by food-friendly acidity, light tannic structure and an uncharacteristic lick of milk chocolate on the finish. (SW) DOMAINE PADIÉ PETIT TAUREAU 2015, VIN DE FRANCE ($29)

The domaine is located in the Roussillon region, but the vineyard is outside the classified area. Bright ruby. Pure nose of red berries, candy and light spicy notes, only a little oak. Medium bodied, slightly acidic balance. The fine tannins are a little dry and bitter. Clean finish. Try again in a couple of years. (GBQc)

GERMANY KILIAN HUNN PINOT NOIR 2014, BADEN ($18.95)

A very impressive Pinot for the price.

Mature ruby in colour with a spicy, floral, plum nose and nicely integrated oak.

Medium-bodied and dry with plum and cherry flavours finishing on ripe tannins.

Very Burgundian in style. (TA)

ITALY TENUTA FRESCOBALDI DI CASTIGLIONI 2015, TOSCANA IGT ($21.95)

This red always delivers the goods! A blend of 50% Cab Sauv, 30% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc and 10% Sangiovese serves up cassis, raspberry, dark cherry, mint, vanilla and spice. Drink now or cellar for another 5 years — the choice is yours. (ES) MASI CAMPOFIORIN 2014, VENETO ($22)

This wine, the original Ripasso, celebrates its 50th birthday with this vintage.

58 @ QUENCH_MAG

Ripe with plum, raspberry, cherry, violets, tobacco, cocoa, herbs and spice. Fresh acidity and fine-grained tannins round out the package. Ready to drink. Try with a sausage ragu! (ES) MADONNA DELLE GRAZIE AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE MESSER OTO 2012, BASILICATA ($24)

Perfumed with aromas of violets, plum and spice. Full-flavoured with a silky texture, juicy core and a long, mineral finish.

A delicious, approachable Aglianico that provides great character and value. (GB) SAN FABIANO CALCINAIA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2015, TUSCANY ($24)

I was blown away after tasting this biodynamic producer’s portfolio at the 2017 Italian Wine Show in Toronto.

Plum, cherry, humus, spice and herbs are built on a concentrated frame. Excellent length, and perfectly suited to a porterhouse steak! (ES) CARPINETO 2015, CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG ($25)

Opens with cinnamon-accented red cherry and dark fruit on the nose with ripe, lightly sweet, bitter black-cherry flavour supported by moderately dry tannins and well-balanced acidity. A solid, well-made Chianti in the generous style of the 2015 vintage. (SW) FONTANAFREDDA BAROLO 2013, PIEDMONT ($29.95)

Always solid value for Barolo! Cherry, plum, spice, vanilla, earth, dried flowers and tar work their way out of the glass and onto the palate. Very good length with dry tannins. (ES)

SAN FELICE IL GRIGIO RISERVA 2013, CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG ($32)

Elegant complexity on the nose reveals developed red fruit with great amplitude and depth of flavour on the palate.

Supported by velvety tannins, moderate tannic grip and deft overall balance, this classically balanced Chianti Classico finishes with lingering notes of dark cherry and plum. (SW) PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO LANGHE NEBBIOLO 2015, PIEDMONT ($34)

Elegant, balanced and expressive, lingering with fruit, spice and mineral notes.

Medium-bodied, savoury and layered, with a lifted, fresh finish. Immensely drinkable and an extremely versatile food wine that seemingly pairs with almost anything. (GB)

PORTUGAL HERDADE DO ROCIM TINTO 2013, VINHO REGIONAL ALENTEJANO ($23)

Scents of cherry with a whiff of herb, vanilla and a pinch of spice introduce lightly sweet dark fruit with rounded structure, grippy but approachable tannins and a well-balanced, harmonious finish. (SW) HERDADE DO ROCIM TOURIGA NACIONAL 2015, VINHO REGIONAL ALENTEJANO ($30)

Youthful purple in the glass, showing lightly perfumed fleshy dark fruit with a touch of fine spice. Full-flavoured and rounded on the palate with elegant berry and dark cherry character, approachable tannins and not overly aggressive acidity.

A good example of Touriga Nacional quality as a single grape variety. (SW)

SOUTH AFRICA HAMILTON RUSSELL ASHBOURNE 2009, WALKER BAY ($26)

An unusual blend of 86% Pinotage and 3.5% each of Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot.

Mature ruby in colour, the nose is redolent with the fragrance of cedar, blackcurrant and cherries with a floral grace note.

Medium-bodied, dry and elegant with surprisingly youthful flavours of red- and blackcurrants. Firmly structured with great length. (TA)

SPAIN

with subtle spice and supporting oak. 5% Graciano in the blend adds complexity. Velvety smooth on the palate with dark berry fruit and a light splash of chocolate. (SW)

FINCA VILLACRECES PRUNO 2015, RIBERA DEL DUERO ($21)

Dark ruby with a purple rim. Sweet, ripe red fruits, vanilla-scented oak and pastry notes. Soft texture, full body and ripe-fruit taste. The mellow tannins are barely felt in the pleasant finish. Ready to drink. (GBQc) PLAER 2012, DOQ PRIORAT ($29)

Solid wine by vintner Ritme Celler.

Clear, very deep plum red. Hearty nose of cherries, raisins, treacle toffee and coffee. Full-bodied and powerful, tasting of blackberry jam. Tannins beginning to soften, but still a force to be reckoned with, so give this another 1 to 2 years. For maximum enjoyment, drink with spit-roasted lamb and rosemary potatoes. (RL)* MARQUÉS DE MURRIETA FINCA YGAY RESERVA 2013, RIOJA ($29.95)

Dense purple-ruby in colour with a nose of sandalwood and strawberry purée. Medium-bodied, dry, elegant and beautifully balanced with firmly structured red plum flavour that lingers. (TA) LUIS CAÑAS RESERVA 2012, DOC RIOJA ($32)

Delivers refined Tempranillo expression

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CANADA

ROLLAND & GALARRETA TEMPRANILLO 2014, RIBERA DEL DUERO DO ($33)

A bold, full-flavoured Tempranillo showing complex dark fruit, allspice and dried lavender on the nose, with concentrated black cherry, a dollop of milk chocolate and solid tannic grip in the mouth. Best with another 3 to 5 years in the cellar. (SW)

RECOMMENDED

BERONIA RESERVA 2013, RIOJA ($20.95)

A blend of Tempranillo, Graciano and Mazuelo. Deep ruby in colour with a sandalwood and coconut nose masking fruit at the moment. Medium-bodied and dry, with strawberry purée and coconut flavours and a tannic lift on the finish. (TA)

OVER $35

FRANCE HENRI BOURGEOIS SANCERRE LES BARONNES 2016, LOIRE VALLEY ($22.95)

A mild Sauvignon Blanc with aromas of fruit salad, lime, apple, melon, grapefruit, lilac, grass and white pepper. Dry, with a mineral core and hints of passion fruit and herbs on the finale. (ES)

FIELDING ESTATE WINERY TUFFORD ROAD VINEYARD CABERNET FRANC 2015, NIAGARA ($40)

An interesting CF: not a hit-you-over-thehead style, but rather more elegant. Lovely aromatics of ripe cherry, plum, pomegranate, earth and subtle spice. Shows more depth on the palate and more structure, with earthy red fruits, anise, emerging oak spices and savoury herbs, with good acidity to keep it lively on the finish. (RV) HESTER CREEK THE JUDGE 2014, GOLDEN MILE BENCH, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($45)

From some of the Okanagan’s oldest vinifera plantings, a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot yields aromas of dark berry fruits and leather, followed by a broad, medium-bodied palate, with good weight and focused fruit (ripe but not extracted), with vibrant dark berry and spicy notes, supple tannins and a lengthy, gently peppery finish. (TP)

ITALY CANTINA DI NEGRAR CORVINA 2015, ROSSO VERONA IGT ($22)

Corvina is better known when typically blended with Rondinella and Molinara to make Valpolicella. In this single-grape version, it reveals appetizing spicy plum and cherry scents, with slightly sweet dark plum and bitter cherry flavours, moderate tannins and balanced acidity. (SW)

FORT BERENS RED GOLD 2015, LILLOOET, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($45)

Blend of 43% Cabernet Franc, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Merlot, with 28% of the Cabernet Franc air-dried for 1 month. Highly extracted on the nose with kirsch, blackcurrant jam, graphite, lovely barrel-oak spices and earthy notes. On the palate, look for an expressive range of red fruits, minerals, liquorice, anise, currants and loads of spice with tannic structure and power through a long, lush finish that has a long future ahead. (RV)

PORTUGAL HERDADE DO ROCIM AMPHORA TINTO 2015, DOC ALENTEJO ($33)

This winery’s red all-natural wine made using amphorae, is a blend of 4 grapes: Aragonez (Tempranillo), Trincadera and 2 very rare indigenous varieties (Moreto and Tinta Grossa). Aged on the skins for 6 months, it is a little shy on the nose, but delivers clean red cherry and plum fruit in a medium-weight package with rounded tannins and good overall balance. (SW)

TWO SISTERS MERLOT 2013, NIAGARA RIVER ($49)

A cool-climate Merlot with plum, dark cherry, raspberry, roasted herbs, vanilla and smoke. There is fine length, some grippy tannins and a touch of heat. Duck breast with a red-wine reduction would be divine with this wine. (ES) QUAILS’ GATE THE CONNEMARA 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($60)

From the winery’s recently introduced top tier, a distinctive Bordeaux blend of FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 59

BUYING GUIDE Cabernet Franc (40%), Merlot (30%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), with fruit sourced from estate vineyards throughout the valley. Forward notes of ripe red and black fruit with cedar and spice on the nose. Complex, layered and full-bodied with mulberry and smoky notes. Well-structured with grippy tannins and a lingering, gently spicy end.

Wait a few years or decant well ahead before serving now. (TP) TWO SISTERS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, NIAGARA RIVER ($64)

Cassis, fraises du bois, black raspberry, violets and vanilla work as one in this refined red. Nice weight and density as well as a long aftertaste. Drink or hold, but make sure to serve alongside a rack of lamb accented with garlic and rosemary. (ES)

FRANCE CHÂTEAU HORTEVIE 2007, AOC SAINT-JULIEN ($39)

Clear, very deep garnet. Aromas of plums and raspberries, with coffee and a bit of barnyard. Medium-bodied with cherry and raspberry flavours accompanied by noticeable acidity and prominent tannins, but it is drinking at its best now. (RL)* CHÂTEAU BARDE-HAUT 2006, SAINT-EMILION ($75)

A mature claret drinking beautifully now. Deep ruby-purple in colour with a cedary, baked plum and blackcurrant nose with vanilla-oak notes. Medium-bodied and dry with savoury, ripe plum flavour. Firmly structured with earthy tannins on the finish. (TA) 60 @ QUENCH_MAG

ITALY

BORGOGNO NO NAME 2013, DOC NEBBIOLO ($45)

LUIGI ODDERO 2010, DOCG BAROLO, PIEDMONT ($40)

Notwithstanding the self-deprecating name, this one could give a few more illustrious Barolos and Barbarescos a run for their money. Opening with good varietal scents of violets, redcurrant, a touch of herb and a pinch of spice, the wine evolves into surprisingly rounded, spice-accented red-fruit flavours, finishing with a touch of dark chocolate and characteristic firm, dry tannic grip. (SW)

COS FRAPPATO 2015, SICILY ($40)

BORGOGNO BAROLO 2012, PIEDMONT ($45.95)

Clear, fading orangey garnet. Fairly robust nose of cherries and plums with a bit of Amaretto and anise, opening to some coffee and chocolate in the glass.

Light-bodied for a Barolo, with sour cherry flavours. Acidity and alcohol are both prominent, but tannins are very soft. Not made in a style meant for long aging — drink up. (RL)*

Fragrant, vibrant and nervy aromas and flavours of wild red fruit, citrus peel and spice. With juicy texture and bright acidity, this wine is pétillant, fresh, minerally, mouth-watering, immensely quaffable and delicious with a lip-smacking finish. The type of wine you wish those who exclusively drink big, heavily oaked, one-dimensional wines would learn to love — or at least give a try. Pair it with crab or octopus. (GB) FONTANAFREDDA SERRALUNGA D’ALBA, DOCG BAROLO, PIEDMONT ($44.95)

Plum, spice, tobacco, red flower and tar on the nose meet up with cherry, earth, vanilla and spice on the palate. Full-bodied with elevated tannins, brisk acid and a lingering aftertaste. (ES) RUFFINO DUCALE ORO GRAN SELEZIONE RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2012, TUSCANY ($44.95)

Ruby in colour with a mature rim and cedary, spicy, cherry nose. Medium-bodied and dry. Savoury, sour-cherry flavour with a firm tannic finish. (TA)

Medium ruby in colour with a mature brickish rim and a nose of cherries and fresh mushrooms. Medium-bodied, dry, elegant and firmly structured with evident tannins on the finish. Needs 4–5 years in the cellar. (TA) SAN FELICE IL GRIGIO GRAN SELEZIONE 2013, DOCG CHIANTI CLASSICO ($48)

Intense dark colour suggests power and depth to come. Subtle, well-calibrated fine fruit, spice and a whiff of oak on the nose yield to concentrated dark fruit with discernible blackcurrant. Firm tannic bite and still-youthful acidity.

Plenty of weight and character here, but will benefit from another 3 to 5 years in the cellar. (SW) GIACOSA BUSSIA BAROLO 2011, PIEDMONT ($49.95)

A cellar-worthy Barolo. Ruby coloured with a mature rim. Bouquet of dried cherries with a floral note lifted with oak spice. Medium-bodied with savoury, tightly wound cherry flavour and firm tannins. Hold for 5 years. (TA)

MOON CURSER VINEYARDS AFRAID OF THE DARK 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($19) VIOGNIER (45%), ROUSSANNE (40%) AND MARSANNE (15%) FROM THE OSOYOOS EAST BENCH, WITH MINIMAL INTERVENTION AND STAINLESS-STEEL FERMENTED SEPARATELY. VIBRANT UPFRONT FLORAL, CITRUS AND STONE-FRUIT NOTES BEFORE A TEXTURED AND LUSCIOUS FULL-BODIED PALATE WITH NOTES OF NECTARINE AND HONEY, PLUS A TOUCH OF MINERALITY AND LINGERING CITRUS IN THE FINISH. TBY TIM PAWSEY

PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO BARBARESCO DOCG, 2013, PIEDMONT ($55)

Alluring combination of roses, fruit, tobacco and spice, leading to a refined texture and firm structure. Balanced, firm tannins, tight core and focussed. Consistently over-delivers quality for price. (GB) SAN FELICE VIGORELLO 2011, TOSCANA IGT ($58)

Aged for 20 months in French oak barriques and an additional 8 to 10 months in bottle prior to release. Complex, refined dark fruit, cinnamon, clove, a whiff of green herb and piquant blackcurrant on the nose give way to ripe, generously rounded fruit, a splash of milk chocolate, well-modulated tannins and a harmoniously integrated finish. (SW) CARPINETO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO DOCG 2012, TUSCANY ($65.95)

Mature ruby in colour with a cedary, spicy nose of dried cherries. Medium-bodied, dry, elegant, beautifully balanced and firm with a tannic lift on the finish. A truly aristocratic wine.

Hold for 5 years. (TA) MASI COSTASERA RISERVA AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA 2012, VENETO ($69.95)

A majestic Amarone better than the highly rated 2011. Dense purple in colour with

a spicy, cedary nose of plum, cherry and prune notes. Full-bodied and dry, with black-plum flavour and lively acidity. (TA) FONTANAFREDDA VIGNA LA ROSA BAROLO 2013, BAROLO DOCG, PIEDMONT ($74.95)

This single-vineyard Barolo is hugely aromatic with plum, cherry, liquorice, cedar and tar beguiling the senses. Full-bodied, it is firmly structured, so hold until 2019 then drink until 2030. (ES) TEDESCHI CAPITEL MONTE OLMI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2010, VENETO ($79.95)

They don’t come much more buxom than this! Weighing in at 17% alcohol, this densely coloured purple-ruby wine has an intense blackcurrant and plum bouquet enriched with oak spice. Full-bodied, sweet and spicy, it offers plum and chocolate flavours with a tobacco note. Firmly structured with a tannic finish. (TA)

GIANNI BRUNELLI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO DOCG, 2012, TUSCANY ($96)

Structured yet elegant with lovely bright, pure fruit, spice and savoury notes. Complex, refined and layered, with a firm core and powerful but velvety tannins. Lovely freshness on the long finish. One of the consistent high-quality producers of Brunello that tends to fly under the radar. Seek them out. (GB)

MASI CAMPOLONGO DI TORBE AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA 2011, VENETO ($106)

One of the most delicious Amarones I have tasted in years. Dense rubyblack in colour with a cedary, savoury nose of spicy, dried black fruits.

Full-bodied, sweet and savoury with herbal, black-plum flavour. Rich and full on the palate and still tight. Hold for up to 10 years. (TA) SASSICAIA 2014, TUSCANY ($216)

FONTANAFREDDA BAROLO RISERVA 2007, BAROLO DOCG, PIEDMONT ($88)

An aged Barolo that could do with another 2 to 3 years in the cellar. Mature, deep-ruby colour with a nose of dried cherries and dried herbs and a cedary note. Medium- to full-bodied and dry, with cherry and plum flavours. Lively acidity and a firm finish. (TA)

An ever-noble Tuscan aristocrat. Deep ruby in colour with a cedary, tobacco nose augmented by aromas of cherries, oak spice and a note of violets. Medium-bodied, dry, elegant and beautifully balanced with ripe plum and cherry flavours flowing over the palate with lively acidity. Lovely mouth feel and a long, lingering finish. (TA) FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 61

BUYING GUIDE SPAIN BERONIA 2009, GRAN RESERVA RIOJA DOC ($42)

Opens with developed spicy fruit and agreeable, earthy barnyard aromas. Cherry and redcurrant fruit kick in on the palate, with smooth velvety tannins leading into a long, well-integrated finish. A little hollow on the mid-palate but otherwise very fine. (SW) MONTECILLO GRAN RESERVA SELECCION ESPECIAL 2001, RIOJA DOC ($72)

Very complex bouquet unfolds developed fruit, subtle vanilla, spice and a discreet whiff of oak. Shows finely evolved fruit and spice on the palate enveloped in smooth, velvety tannins. Harmoniously finished with seamlessly integrated fruit, spice and a deft touch of oak. (SW)

UNITED STATES THE PRISONER WINE CO. THE PRISONER 2015, NAPA VALLEY ($49.95)

Don’t be put off by the gruesome label of a chained and shackled prisoner. This blend of Zinfandel with Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Syrah and Charbono is dense purple-black in colour. On the nose, expect a cedary, spicy plum bouquet. It’s full-bodied with an earthy, sweetish plum and raisin flavour. Screams for braised short ribs. (TA) DOMAINE DROUHIN PINOT NOIR 2014, DUNDEE HILLS, OREGON ($52.95)

A vibrant and flavourful Oregon Pinot Noir. Full-bodied, there is a plethora of red berry fruit, alongside plum, beetroot, rose, spice, mushroom and smoke.

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Juicy acidity, fine tannins and a velvety complete and seductive package. Drink until 2022. (ES) FESS PARKER BIEN NACIDO VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2014, SANTA MARIA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA ($64.95)

From California’s Central Coast comes this rich and textured Pinot Noir. Black and red fruit snuggle up with rose, anise and earth. Tannins are firm, acidity brims and there is excellent length. Drink over the next 5 years. (ES)

AFTER DINNER BODEGAS BARBADILLO MANZANILLA PASADA PASTORA, JEREZ ($16.95)

Manzanilla is the driest style of Sherry and — to my palate — the best appetite stimulant. Old gold in colour, it has a fragrant nose of chamomile and green nuts. Light-bodied and crisply dry, it has a salty, nutty flavour and firm structure.

Chill and serve as an apéritif, or try with tapas (especially shrimp). (TA) HIDALGO FARAON OLOROSO SHERRY, JEREZ, SPAIN ($21.95)

A great buy! Deep amber in colour with a nutty, chamomile nose. Rich and full on the palate, dry and elegant. Also a perfect apéritif before a gourmet dinner. (TA) HENRY OF PELHAM RIESLING ICEWINE 2016, NIAGARA ($49.95/375 ML)

A flattering Icewine with a mouth-coat-

ing texture and flavours of bergamot jam, peach, honey, pineapple, sweet apple, spice and minerals. There is acidity, which frames everything nicely, and brilliant length. Who needs dessert with this beauty — just chill and serve! (ES) FONSECA VINTAGE PORT 2009, DOURO VALLEY, PORTUGAL ($58.95)

Dense purple-black in colour with a spicy nose of brambleberries and blackcurrants. Full-bodied with sweet, dark chocolate and black-fruit flavours. Firmly structured and still tight. Will reward patient cellaring for 20 years but enjoyable for senior citizens in 5 years. (TA) LAMBLIN & FILS CRÈME DE CASSIS DE DIJON NV, FRANCE ($24)

Clear, deep brownish-garnet. Smells and tastes intensely of pure, ripe blackcurrants. Viscous and smooth with sweetness and acidity in lovely balance.

Long finish. Drizzle over ice cream, or more classically, use to make a Kir, or Kir Royale, with Burgundy Aligoté or Champagne, respectively. Drink now or hold for several more years. (RL)*

BEER & CIDER DRIFTWOOD BREWING FARMHAND SAISON, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($6.75/ 330 ML)

This Belgian-style Saison pours a medium gold with a rocky, bright white cap.

The dominant aromas are spicy arugula,

peach and apricots. Light-bodied with high carbonation. Grassy hop and apricot pith flavours play on the palate. Because of the spice and herbal notes, this beer style pairs well with most foods.

Try it with a roast chicken seasoned with spices like thyme, rosemary and white pepper. (TL) SOBER ISLAND OYSTER STOUT, NOVA SCOTIA ($4.75/473 ML)

Fresh Pristine Bay oysters from the East Coast contribute a subtle briny note to this roasted stout. The first sniff reveals light chocolate, toast and a hint of red liquorice. A light-bodied brew with medium to light carbonation and tiny bubbles.

On the sip, there are notes of dark chocolate and an earthy saline note thanks to the oysters. (TL) WAYFARERS’ ALE SOCIETY HELLENE BLOND ALE, NOVA SCOTIA ($15.95/ 4 PACK)

Hazy straw colour in the glass with mild citrus, malty and yeasty aromas.

Medium weight, with citrus flavours and a touch of sweetness, delivered in a creamy texture with gentle effervescence and a refreshingly dry nutty and hoppy hit on the finish. Easy-to-like ale with some character. (SW) TROU DU DIABLE LA SAISON DU TRACTEUR STRONG ALE, SHAWINIGAN, QUÉBEC ($5.89/600 ML)

Intense yellow but slightly hazy. Clean nose of light fresh hops with notes of coriander and citrus. Smooth rich texture, light acidity and a nice round finish.

Very refreshing. (GBQc) TATAMAGOUCHE BREWERY RUSSIAN IMPERIAL STOUT, NOVA SCOTIA ($5/473 ML)

Long-lasting mocha head with a deep, opaque molasses-hued body. On the nose is rich treacle and caramel aromas with burnt baker’s chocolate and medium bitterness on the palate. Take this stout out of the fridge at least 20 minutes before serving; the complex, volatile aromas are optimal at warmer temperatures. (TL) UNFILTERED BREWING EXILE ON NORTH STREET, NOVA SCOTIA ($10/1 L)

A New England-style IPA is an ale that’s been heavily hopped, with a very hazy, almost tropical punch-like appearance,

thanks to the addition of flour, oats or wheat, and packed with juicy fruit flavours like mango, grapefruit and orange.

Exile has a pale, hazy lemon appearance with a creamy mouth feel and pleasing prickly bitterness and carbonation. Its flavour is super juicy, bursting with heaps of pink grapefruit, green mango and tangerine. (TL)

But don’t call it a cider! Perries are made with only pear juice, whereas a pear cider has an apple juice base with pear juice added for flavour. (TL) BOSTON BEER COMPANY SAMUEL ADAMS BOSTON LAGER, UNITED STATES ($4/473 ML)

A classic golden lager originally brewed in Munich, Germany with light floral, herbal and white bread flavours, and a crisp hop bitterness. This beer style was created in 1870s to compete with the growing popularity of the Czech Pilsner, helles is German for “pale.” (TL)

When Boston Lager hit the market in the mid-80s, there were only a handful of craft breweries in the US. At the time, the Vienna-style lager really resonated with beer lovers, and it continues to be very popular today. With a rich toasted-malt profile, balanced with a dose of floral and herbal noble hops, it’s very smooth with medium carbonation and a crisp, dry finish. Be ready for the 4th of July in February. (TL)

TROU DU DIABLE LA PITOUNE PILSNER, SHAWINIGAN, QUÉBEC ($5.99/600 ML)

SMITHWICK’S PREMIUM RED ALE, IRELAND ($3/500 ML)

LOWENBRAU MUNICH HELLES, GERMANY ($2.30/473 ML)

Light yellow and hazy, with a good deal of foam. Open, light, perfumed nose of hops. Light body, refreshing acidity and bitterness. Dry, lasting finish. (GBQc) NINE LOCKS BREWING COMPANY, DARTMOUTH, NOVA SCOTIA SCOTCH ALE ($4/473 ML)

Dark, Porter-like colour, with robust malty and dried-fruit aromas lead the way for rich malty, lightly sweet plum cake flavours balanced by judicious bitterness on the finish. Heartwarming winter brew. (SW) COUNTY BEER COMPANY COUNTY ROAD NO. 3, ONTARIO ($6.50/650 ML)

A saison brewed in Prince Edward County, Ontario, a region made popular for its wineries, cideries and now growing number of breweries. On the nose, there are white pepper and intense floral notes, with an amaretto-like almond, white cracker and herbal notes coming through on the palate. The finish is bone dry with medium bitterness and lively carbonation. (TL) POMMIES CIDER CO. POMMIES PERRY, ONTARIO ($13/4-PACK)

Crafted by a husband and wife team using 100% Ontario pears, a sniff of this perry reveals overripe Bartlett pear flesh and a touch of funk. There’s a clean, zippy acidity that balances the sweet and tart flavours, with a medium-dry finish.

Pouring a reddish-copper with a tan foamy cap, there’s buttered toast and light toffee on the nose. On the sip, the ale is toasty and smooth, and the malt and hops are perfectly balanced, so it’s not too bitter or too sweet. This classic example of an Irish Red Ale is light-bodied with medium carbonation.

It’s lower in alcohol so it’s very sessionable, meaning a couple can be enjoyed over an afternoon in the pub. (TL) MUDDY YORK BREWING PORTER, ONTARIO ($5/500 ML)

This newly opened Toronto brewery is taking a page from the history books and producing great-quality classic beer styles like Munich Helles and Irish stout. Their porter pours a deep cocoa brown with tan head. On the sip, it’s dark chocolatey and roasty with a touch of vanilla, cherry nibs and whisp of smoke in the finish. This porter pairs well with smoked brisket, the roasted and smoky malt flavours in both the ale and the dish complement each other beautifully. (TL) MICROBRASSERIE CHARLEVOIX SOUR FRENCH KISS FRUIT BEER, BAIE ST-PAUL, QUÉBEC ($5.69/500 ML)

Dark pink with generous, lasting white foam. Sour strawberry and cranberry on the nose. Sour fruity taste and extremely refreshing. Very dry, lean texture and a short, bitter finish. (GBQc) FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 63

DAVINE GURVINDER BHATIA

NO MORE POINTS There has been considerable discussion over the past many years regarding the value of the 100-point scale for rating wines.

When the scale was first introduced and popularized by Robert Parker, it did make sense. The 100-point scale actually works when there is only one person reviewing all the wines. In that context, it is quite clear (or at least should be) that when the reviewer scores a wine 94 points and another wine 87 points that the reviewer believes the wine awarded the higher score is the better quality wine.

With the inclusion of price, the reader is also able to distinguish which wines the reviewer believes provide greater value than others. For example, given a $100 wine that scored 91 points and a $14 wine that scored 88 points, the $14 wine should generate greater interest because it represents, in the opinion of the reviewer, a tremendous value and is affordable to a greater number of wine consumers.

64 @ QUENCH_MAG

But when there are multiple reviewers, the 100-point scale loses its context, even when the reviewers are experienced, and regularly taste and are familiar with a wide range of wines. Part of the issue is that one reviewer’s 90 points is another reviewer’s 86 points. Both may believe that the wine is excellent, but where the wine falls on each reviewer’s personal scale may differ.

This can cause considerable confusion for readers, given that both reviewers may have the exact same opinion of the wine’s quality, even though their scores seem to indicate otherwise.

The scoring range of reviewers also appears to be narrowing, thus making it more difficult to distinguish between well-made and not-so-well-made wines.

Many reviewers, it seems, only have a range between 86 and 92 points. This

crowding, in my opinion, diminishes the value of reviews to the reader.

Another issue with the 100-point scale is that wines that score below 90 points are often dismissed as inferior.

There once was a time when a wine scoring 80 points was considered good quality. But, today, a wine scoring 80 points is perceived as undrinkable. Reviewers, readers, retailers and producers have all contributed to this viscous cycle.

Producers, understandably, use 90+ point scores to help market their wines.

This collaterally raises the profile of the reviewer and publication, often resulting, subconsciously or not, in score escalation. Scores continue to escalate with an inordinate number of wines receiving 97+ points. In fact, given the penchant of some reviewers to anoint too many wines with their 100-point oil,

it seems perfection is not that uncommon. Readers, as a result, are mistakenly led to believe that wines scoring under 90 points are ignored.

COMPLICATING MATTERS, many

readers only look at the score, dismissing the reviewer’s description of the wine, thus losing sight of whether stylistically, the wine is something that they may actually enjoy. And retailers often take the easy way out by posting high scores to sell wines versus engaging and educating their clients and determining which wines may actually appeal to them.

SO, WHAT DO WE DO? I believe that

there isn’t one, unique solution to this issue. However, it is important that we put the focus back on the wine as opposed to the score the wine receives. It’s also important to understand that not all reviewers will agree on a particular bottle, and that’s okay.

Even experienced tasters will have a certain level of subjectivity based on their expectations, views, experiences and influences. Part of the beauty of wine is its diversity. There may well be wines that all can agree are great quality (or not), but without some divergence in views,

THE SO-CALLED PARKER EFFECT OFTEN RESULTS IN WINES LOSING THEIR SENSE OF PLACE AND BECOMING FORMULAIC, SHIFTING THE FOCUS TO THE POINTS RECEIVED VERSUS GROWING BALANCED, TERROIR-BASED WINES.

Speaking from personal experience, as someone who owned a retail wine shop for more than 20 years, treating each client as an individual helps in not only evolving and broadening each client’s palate, but also in opening their minds to not-so-well-known wines that provide great quality and value that they may, and often do, fall in love with. By taking the latter approach, wine sellers have the ability to elevate wine culture in their community, which allows for all sectors of the wine industry to benefit. Everyone in the industry needs to accept that not every wine, regardless of a high score, will appeal to every wine drinker’s taste.

Perhaps the most controversial issue caused by the chase for points is producers who make wines in a certain style to appeal to particular reviewers in hopes of receiving higher scores. The so-called Parker effect often results in wines losing their sense of place and becoming formulaic, shifting the focus to the points received versus growing balanced, terroir-based wines.

we would likely exist in a sea of homogeneous mediocrity.

It’s time for reviewers to put the focus back on the wine and write reviews based on a wine’s varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio, and expressly indicate whether they believe the wine is exceptional, recommended, worth a try or, constructively, not.

And readers need to focus on how the wine is described and who is reviewing the wine. Follow reviewers whose taste appears to match yours. By reading the reviews (as opposed to just looking at the scores) and getting to understand the tastes of various reviewers, you will likely discover a wider range of wines that appeal to you versus pigeonholing yourself into wines based on criteria having nothing to do with your preferences. Focus on price point and style. Learn to trust your own palate and make it less about the numbers — doing so will open doors to discovery.

Let’s cultivate wine lovers instead of point seekers. ×

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RosehillWineCellars.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 65

AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER

RECORKING A PROBLEM IN THE JULY/AUGUST 2017 ISSUE OF QUENCH, I wrote a

column headlined “Screw Cap or Cork, in which I maintained: “The incidence of corked wines is falling, mercifully, as cork producers have become more scrupulous in how they cut the cork trees, dry the bark, punch out the cork lengths and bleach them. But one ‘corked’ wine is one too many when the problem can easily be remedied with a screwcap.”

The article caught the attention of the New York public relations firm that represents the Portuguese Cork Association (APCOR). An account executive emailed me asking if I would like to “engage … in a deeper conversation that sheds light on the new advancements and data that has emerged on natural cork in the last few years.”

In the interests of open-minded journalism, I replied that I would be happy to do so. So, a conference call was set up with Portugal to speak with spokesmen from APCOR and Amorim, the world’s largest producer of cork.

The cork industry worldwide, they informed me, produces 12 billion wine corks annually. Amorim’s share of the market is 4.4 billion pieces. Currently, of the 17.5 to 18 billion bottles of wine produced globally, 12 billion are under cork. Another 4.5 to 4.7 billion are closed with screwcaps with the rest stoppered with plastic corks or glass.

Since the introduction of screwcaps and plastic stoppers, Amorim’s sales of cork have actually increased, I was informed. Using gas chromatography to eliminate the Trichloroanisole that creates cork taint, Amorim’s quality control people can detect the incidence of TCA to 0.5 of a nanogram, a nanogram being one billionth of a gram. Given the introduction of this new technology, Amorim has two insurance companies willing to, “underwrite guarantees bottle by bottle of the non-detectability of TCA … the level of extraction is so high that we are able to offer that guarantee.”

“Wineries all over the world,” their PR representative initially wrote, “are discovering or rediscovering why natural cork is the best fit for their wines.” For example, Penfolds recently said that the company now believes screwcaps are not the best option for its closures, especially for higher-end wines, and that the winery will now focus on cork closures. Penfolds winemaker Peter Gago has also said that “screwcaps are not the future.”

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Gago explained the factor underpinning the company’s reinforced interest in cork, especially for higher-end wines, is that the TCA problem has been “partially solved,” and quantified that, “examples of TCA in cork [are] now down to around 1 percent, comparable to the percentage of screwcap-sealed wines that suffer from oxidation, due to mechanical damage of the stoppers.”

I contacted Peter Gago to ask for clarification; I quote his written reply.

“Firstly, my comment that ‘screwcaps are not the future’: I actually regularly state that neither cork nor screwcap are the ultimate closure solution — both are dated! Secondly, since 2004, all Penfolds white wines have been sealed under screwcap for all markets. We actually started bottling whites under screwcap in 1971 (Autumn Riesling) and have been delighted with the results ever since for our white wines. Thirdly, the issue of Penfolds reds bottled under screwcap or cork? Penfolds reds are available under both cork and screwcap, depending upon the market. One exception — Grange (cork in all markets). What we have noticed recently (concurrent to an overt decrease in TCA incidence — our guestimate hovering around 1 percent) is a collector trend towards seeking out our more expensive reds under cork.

So, the debate continues. I can only hope that the rest of the cork industry is as scrupulous as Amorim in their on-going efforts to eradicate the TCA menace. × ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM

XAD

HAVE WE MET?

ARMAGNAC DE MONTAL VSOP “This is delightfully delicate as far as Armagnac goes.

From an excellent producer that’s been around since the 17th century, it’s juicy and redolent of sweet stone fruit, apple, orange peel and brown sugar, with penetrating warmth underscored by baking spices and brown butter.”

ARMAGNAC IN FOLDER

Beppi Crosariol The Globe and Mail

MEET THE FAMILY

Pictured above 1987, XO, Hors d’Age, 1997 and VS. Also available Blanche d’Armagnac and older vintages starting from 1893. Good taste runs in the family.

Armagnac de Montal

www.mcowines.com

XAD

HOW D O YO U LI KE T H EM AP P LES!

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