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Sausage sliders. Please remain calm. Sausage Sliders. Here’s a new twist on Piller’s traditional smoked sausages. Made using authentic European recipes, they make the perfect topping on a freshly toasted baguette along with delicious, homemade zucchini relish. Guests will be asking for more. See the video at pillers.com/recipes/16-sausage-sliders
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QUENCH MAGAZINE JULY/AUGUST 2016 LOVE AND ATTENTION × 22 MEET THE MAN WHO IS CHANGING HOW WE MATCH INDIAN CUISINE WITH WINE. BY GURVINDER BHATIA GARBAGE-Y × 24 WHY ARE SOME PEOPLE DESCRIBING VIDAL THIS WAY? BY MICHAEL PINKUS SUPER DUPER × 27 DID YOU KNOW SUPERFOODS ARE SITTING IN YOUR GROCERY BASKET DISGUISED AS THEIR MILDMANNERED ALTER EGOS? BY LISA HOEKSTRA
27 38
THE MINDFUL EATER × 30 WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU TAKE A BREAK FROM EATING MEAT? BY JOANNE WILL THE TREACHERY OF INGREDIENTS × 32 GRAPES CAN WORK AS WELL ON OUR PLATES AS THEY DO IN OUR GLASS. FIELD TESTED × 34 QUENCH POLLS THE EXPERTS AND FINDS THE BEST VINEYARDS IN NIAGARA. BY RICK VANSICKLE REAL THING × 38 REAL CIDER IS MORE THAN SUGAR PRIMED COMMERCIAL FIZZ. BY TIM PAWSEY LIGHTING A MATCH! × 42 THE NOTION OF PAIRING SPIRITS WITH FOOD IS BEING TURNED ON ITS HEAD. BY TOD STEWART SPICE INVADERS × 45 SPICED AND FLAVOURED SPIRITS ARE MAKING A COMEBACK. GOOD OR BAD THING? BY SILVANA LAU
DEPARTMENTS LA DOLCE VITA × 48 I DECIDED TO GIVE UP SUGAR FOR A WHILE AND I FEEL LIKE I’M RUNNING ON AN EMPTY TANK THAT ONCE HELD NOTHING BUT SUGAR. BY NANCY JOHNSON
BUILDING OUR COMMUNITY × 64 AN OFTEN-OVERLOOKED ASPECT OF MANY WINE FESTIVALS IS THEIR ABILITY TO BUILD, DEVELOP AND GROW A REGION’S WINE COMMUNITY. BY GURVINDER BHATIA
NOTED × 50 EXPERTLY-TASTED BUYING GUIDE OF WINES, BEERS AND SPIRITS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.
BY ANY OTHER NAME × 66 GRENACHE IS (FINALLY) HAVING ITS DAY. BY TONY ASPLER
JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 3
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I’ve tried out dozens of Sriracha recipes - I put that glorious red stuff on everything, so making my own is a lot more affordable. The Sriracha recipe Duncan Holmes included in his article Kick It Up was perfect. Ryan Gill, Vancouver I was excited to read Silvana Lau’s article Spike Your Beer [May/June issue]. I fell in love with beer cocktails when I had a Snakebite a while back and try to pick a beer cocktail whenever they’re on the menu. But they aren’t everywhere… I’ve definitely put Lau’s tips in a safe place for my future cocktail experiments! Camille Roy, email
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WE OFTEN SPEND A LOT OF ENERGY ON THE GRAPE. ROUND, PLUMP AND SOMETIMES MAGICAL, IT SITS AT THE BASE OF EVERY GLASS OF WINE YOU DRINK. It’s in your spirits and
liqueurs. It’s fortified, yet not bolstered. It’s easy to forget it has any other use. A wise man once told me, “some grapes are meant to be crushed in a wine press ... others between your teeth.”
6 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
Wine and food, the one million dollar topic of conversation. While I agree with Tony Aspler’s statement that we need some sort of number to call when someone is being a “wine bore”, I am probably still on my journey towards the point where Tony is writing from. That being said, I am firmly on the side that being pretentious about people who eat fish with red wine (or any other wine pairing “faux pas”) is completely ridiculous. There are many red wines that match well a well prepared salmon, for example. Hopefully, I’m not a wine bore and I pray I never become one, but I personally love listening to the experts ramble on. Gregory Hawryluk, Winnipeg
Truer words have never been spoken — I love this saying. The grape does have a life between our teeth we seldom speak of in the pages of Quench. So in this Living Local issue we’ve decided to pay homage to the table grape, which you’ll find on page 32. We also take a look at its heavenly brother, the wine grape, and how a vineyard can change its make up — on page 34. I’ve always been fascinated by the notion of terrior. There is so much that can go wrong in a growing season but if your grapes are bolstered by the right combination of soil and sun exposure … if you take the energy to learn the space’s nuances and you hold its hand through the tough times, terroir can deliver every time. Maybe these are the truer words that have been spoken.
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CONTRIBUTORS Kathy Sinclair is a former Vancouverite who now lives in Kamloops, BC, where she enjoys 316 annual days of sunshine, an active cultural life and a developing food and wine scene. With a background in writing, editing and publishing, she’s been on the Quench copy desk for the past four years.
Michael Pinkus has a love affair with wine that goes back over 20 years and continues to this day as an award-winning journalist and wine judge. He is a freelance writer whose articles have appeared in a number national and international magazines. He also publishes MichaelPinkusWineReview.com (formerly OntarioWineReview.com), is a past-President of the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada and is the creator of the Grape Guy Events app.
Rick VanSickle is a freelance wine journalist and publisher of WinesInNiagara.com. He lives in Niagara wine country with his family and spends a great deal of time conducting research (some refer to it as simply drinking wine) for his job. It’s about life and living it to the fullest, which is the one thing he is very good at.
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8 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
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À LA CARTE Q SCHOOL × 10 MONTREAL HAS BECOME A HOT SPOT OF CRAFT TONIC SYRUP. YOUR G&T WILL NEVER BE THE SAME. GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON × 12 MAKING A BETTER BUTTER. UMAMI BY KATIA JEAN PAUL × 14 MARTH STEWART HAS NOTHING ON GABRIEL CABRERA. NEXT STOP BY KATHY SINCLAIR × 17 EATING AND DRINKING THROUGH BC’S THOMPSON VALLEY. FEED BY TOM DE LARZAC × 18 COMBINING TWO CUISINES TO MAKE YOUR OWN THING. LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO × 19 IT’S SOMETIMES A GREAT IDEA TO DRINK YOUR GARDEN. BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL × 21 A FRIEND SUGGESTED THAT THE SPRITZ IS A GREAT SUMMERTIME DRINK. WHAT DO YOU THINK?
JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 9
Q SCHOOL
JACK’S TONIQUE
A TRUE TONIC CRAFT DISTILLERS ARE PLAYING WITH JUNIPER, NEUTRAL SPIRITS, HERBS AND FLORA TO MAKE NUANCED, FLAVOURFUL GINS. As a result, bartenders, distillers and G&T
lovers alike are trying to give tonic water the depth and character needed to match these craft gins. Enter the tonic syrup. “We were interested in the new gins from micro-distilleries,” says Hannah Palmer, co-creator of 3/4 Oz. “There was no tonic specifically made to really appreciate them.” Palmer and her friend Alexandrine Lemaire founded 3/4 Oz., a high-end concentrates producer in Montreal that produces a range of syrups for cocktail enthusiasts, including their Tonic Maison. Tonic syrup is an alternative to the name-brand tonic waters. “We don’t believe there is anything wrong with using carbonated tonic water. The challenge is finding a good one,” says Mathieu Guillemette; Guillemette and co-founder Joël Beaupré make Jack’s Tonique, an artisanal tonic syrup available at locations across Canada (and online). “Using our tonic syrup … you can tailor your cocktails to your taste.” These concentrated syrups offer more than just a complementing set of flavours to pair with your artisanal gin — they’re also healthier. “There’s half the sugar in tonic syrup than there is in a commercial tonic water,” says Gabrielle Panaccio, director, co-owner and mixologist at Le Lab Bar and creator of Old Timer’s Tonic Syrup. “It’s more healthy and natural.” The added benefit of tonic syrup is its sheer versatility, whether it’s Tonic Maison, Jack’s Tonique or Old Timer’s Tonic Syrup. “You can use it in gin and tonic for sure,” says Panaccio. “But you can also use it as a base syrup for any other cocktail, like Collins, or any home syrup. Instead of simple syrup, flavour your drink with a tonic syrup.” So if you’re not a big gin drinker, you can actually use tonic syrups in other cocktails and non-alcoholic mixed drinks. 10 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
www.jackstonique.com “We wanted … a clean tonic made from fresh ingredients and sweetened with honey,“ says Guillemette. “I like to call our syrup a ‘complicated syrup’ … we steep some ingredients in hot water and cold-infuse others for long periods of time.” Gin Pairing: Guillemette and Beaupré suggest Dillon’s Unfiltered 22 or Piger Henricus. Our Thoughts: Citrus and pine notes overlay woodsy flavours; delish in a white port and tonic (WP&T).
LE LAB: OLD TIMER’S TONIC
www.barlelab.com “We wanted it not too bitter and not too citrusy, because we find that overpowers the gin,” says Panaccio. “In the end, we have a syrup that lasts longer in the mouth. Because we don’t [use] citric acid, we suggest you add fresh lime.” Gin Pairing: Panaccio suggests Tanqueray because “it has more citrus, a fuller flavour and brings a lot of style.” Our Thoughts: Hints of liquorice, eucalyptus and menthol; great with a splash of cranberry juice.
3/4 OZ.: TONIC MAISON
www.34oztonicmaison.com “Tonic Maison really allows you to taste the aromatics that the distillers put so much care in putting in their gins,” says Palmer. “The secret is a recipe well balanced between bitterness, sweetness and acidity that makes it possible to enjoy and appreciate the gin.” Gin Pairing: “It goes well with most gin,” states Palmer. Experiment and find your favourite combo. Our Thoughts: A touch of lemongrass, notes of orange zest and lasting bitterness; a straight-up G&T syrup.
G&TONIC SYRUP
3/4 oz tonic syrup 1 oz gin 2-3 oz sparkling/soda water
Put ingredients in a glass, stir gently and sip. Experiment with the amounts until you find the ratio that suits your tastes. ×
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AMYNDEON 1 IN FOLDER
GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON
Making a better butter Make your own butter? Yes, it takes a bit of time, but it’s easy to do.
1. Start with a mixing bowl, spatula and hand mixer. I’ve made butter in my KitchenAid stand mixer, but I like to use the hand mixer. It gets me closer to the product and allows me to actually feel the cream as it stiffens against the beater blades. 2. One cup of heavy whipping cream will yield about 1/2 cup of butter. 3. Place the whipping cream in the mixing bowl and beat at high speed for about 14 minutes. Scrape the sides of the bowl with a spatula as needed. Continue beating the cream beyond the stiff peak stage. At about the 10- to 12-minute mark, the cream will start to look a bit curdled. Within a couple minutes, the buttermilk will separate from the butter fat. Stop beating. 4. Place the butter in a fine-mesh strainer and press out the buttermilk. I’ve heard you can save the buttermilk for baking or drinking, but frankly, I’ve never done that. 5. The trick is to press out as much of the buttermilk as possible, otherwise the butter will spoil quickly. You may also wash the butter in several baths of ice water until the water is no longer cloudy. I only use this method if I’m going to keep the butter for more than a day. As it is, the butter isn’t going to keep well in your fridge for very long, just a few days or so, but when served the same day you make it, sprinkled with sea salt and slathered on freshly baked bread, there’s usually never enough left over to store anyway. ×
12 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
× Search through our huge library of recipes on quench.me/recipes/
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In North West Greece, the Appellations of Florina (P.G.I. Florina) and Amyndeon (P.D.O. Amyndeon) are located in a region with ideal conditions for the production of high quality wines.
The viticulture zone of Amyndeon, sub region to that of Florina, probably the most promising in Greece, covers an area of more than 700ha, in a mountain plateau (580 – 700m) with semi continental climate, alluvium, sandy, sandy clay soils of excellent drainage, dictated by three big mountains and two lakes. This is the smallest, coldest, driest and most northerly Appellation in Greece. An ecosystem
with ideal conditions for high quality practices from vine to bottle.
P.D.O. (Protected Designation of Origin) Amyndeon wines are 100% Xinomavro (“ksee-NOH-mahvroh”), dry wines and they range from still to sparkling and from white (Blanc de Noir) to rosé (Saignée) and big reds with unique tasting features and long ageing capacity.
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P.G.I. (Protected Geographical Indication) Florina wines range in the same types and colors of wines, with the addition of few late harvest and a wide range of indigenous and international varieties, from Malagouzia, Roditis, Assyrtiko, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer in the whites, to Mavropahne, Syrah, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tannat, Montepulciano and Negro Amaro in the reds. The region is proudly producing with consistency wines that are considered among Greece’s top quality wines with high international reputation.
UMAMI BY KATIA JEAN PAUL
Focus. Click. Eat. In 2013, Martha Stewart, the doyenne of domesticity, drew the ire of the Twittersphere with what The Daily Mail dubbed “unappetizing” (read “disgusting”) food photos. So unsavoury were Stewart’s culinary snaps that she made gourmet dishes from the likes of Michelin-starred restaurants, Jean-Georges and Le Bernardin, look like a petulant child perched on his high chair had viciously hacked at a pea-and-potato-mash purée.
14 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
While food porn of the grotesque variety is celebrated in some corners of the web, one person whose feed has nary one bad photo is Gabriel Cabrera. The Vancouverite is the blogger behind The Artful Desperado, the popular online lifestyle platform showcasing stunning, mouth-watering food images that put the domestic goddess to shame, especially given that Cabrera is entirely self-taught in the art of food photography. “I thought ‘Hey, I have to take pictures for my blog, so I better learn,’” says Cabrera. “I bought a camera and it was trial and error for many, many days. I didn’t have any days off for a year until I learned.” Back when The Artful Desperado was mostly inspiring photographs of art and interiors, Cabrera posted a recipe to the blog. Illustrated with photos taken with the help of a friend, it drew an overwhelmingly positive response, and saw the Mexico native’s career come full circle. Cabrera studied culinary arts at Vancouver Community College after moving to Vancouver to learn English, and subsequently worked in the kitchens of several restaurants, including Bistro Bistro and the erstwhile Pacific-French fusion eatery Suvai. But as a chef in the making, he didn’t take to the gruelling schedule and so began catering for Whole Foods in a last-ditch effort to carve a place for himPHOTO: MARK YAMMINE
self within the industry. “I thought, ‘Let’s change the environment, let’s see if I still like this,’” says Cabrera. “No, I [still] hate it. I was denying that I wasn’t comfortable in the kitchen as a cook.” Cabrera transitioned to social media marketing and launched The Artful Desperado as a creative outlet. The success of his first recipe post, however, saw him reconnect with his culinary roots, shifting his focus to healthful and decadent dishes, and developing more recipes inspired by his travels and Vancouver’s eclectic Pacific Northwest fusion cuisine. Five years in and not only has The Artful Desperado amassed a large following, it also helped launch Cabrera’s career in food styling and photography. The shutterbug has since collaborated with venerated lifestyle brands, including West Elm and frozen foods company Luvo Inc, with which he created a firstclass menu for Delta Airlines. “I love food and I love the whole creativity part of it, but [back] then, I was just in the wrong area of it,” says Cabrera. Cooking, styling and photographing food, Cabrera has finally found his niche. So much so that earlier this year, he and fellow photographer Joann Pai launched “The Atelier Workshop,” a traveling food styling and photography workshop series, the first three of which were held in Paris, Puglia (Italy) and Vancouver. There, Cabrera imparts his knowledge on what makes for a good food photo. “It doesn’t matter what camera you have,” says Cabrera. “We care that you develop an eye for styling and that you start seeing things a different way.” These days, a quick look at Stewart’s social media reveals her photos have drastically improved. And though Cabrera welcomes the infinite culinary options made possible by amateur photographers in the Instagram age, for aspiring food photographers tempted to forgo basic photography principles for their next foodstagram, he cautions: “If you don’t have anything nice to share, don’t share anything at all.” ×
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JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 15
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NEXT STOP BY KATHY SINCLAIR
WORTH THE TRIP When it comes to British Columbia wine touring, you’d be forgiven for making a beeline to the Okanagan Valley; 120 wineries are tough to pass up. But for something different, consider nearby Thompson Valley, which includes Kamloops, a semi-arid desert city of 85,000. Just four hours from Vancouver and eight from Calgary, and a stone’s throw from Kelowna, Sun Peaks Resort and the Shuswap, the region — featuring four wineries, two brew pubs and a cidery — is now a rising star on the BC scene. Once associated with tumbleweeds, cowboys and a gun-toting trout of a mascot (Google “Kami the Fish”), Kamloops has become increasingly sophisticated while maintaining its frontier charm. You won’t find much evidence of Kami today, though ranching and farming continue, with hops grown locally. The area has attracted an eclectic group of oenophiles and foodies who’ve left larger centres to create something new. Here are just three of many spots to visit.
RED BEARD CAFE
www.redbeardcafe.com Originally from Edmonton, Mitch Forgie and his wife, Edna, own Red Beard Cafe, a bright spot on Kamloops’ developing North Shore. Once just a daytime coffee shop, Red Beard has expanded to feature a full menu, thirteen rotating taps of craft beer and local wine. They also helped found a beer festival, Brew Loops (September). Stop in for breakfast and some of the best espresso in town, or time your visit with one of their special dinner-series events with unique six courses sourced locally, each with an accompanying beer (a recent one included Oregon’s Ale Apothecary Sahalie Wild Ale). The place to be.
RED COLLAR BREWING COMPANY
www.redcollar.ca Not to be confused with Red Beard, Red Collar (a tip of the hat to the resident dog) is located in downtown Kamloops. The 80-seat taproom, founded in 2014 by Munich-trained world traveller David Beardsall and family, features an open space with concrete floor that brings to mind Vancouver’s Yaletown or a tech
MONTE CREEK WINEMAKER GALEN BARNHARDT
startup. You’ll find at least 10 beers here, including IPA, Dubbel, Tripel (9%) and a Belgian Witbier; what makes them special is the Kamloops water, which is similar to Pilsen’s (used in Pilsner). Sample them all during a lively happy hour with locals and hipsters, or pick up a bottle, squealer or growler to go.
MONTE CREEK RANCH WINERY
www.montecreekranchwinery.com The Kamloops Wine Trail is right off the Trans-Canada, making it a convenient stop en route. Make one of those stops Monte Creek Ranch. General manager Erik Fisher arrived in Kamloops after 13 years with the Okanagan’s Peller Estates. Today he oversees this winery, which covers 1200 acres on both sides of the Thompson River. Have lunch on the scenic patio under the Lion’s Head Mountain while sampling a variety of whites and reds, including the 2015 Riesling, 2014 Frontenac Gris, and the 2013 Foch. Or try the grassfed Black Angus cattle beef jerky, haskap berry jam and honey from onsite bees. For the truly adventurous, there’s Sweat & Sip (yes, that’s bootcamp with wine). × JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 17
FEED BY TOM DE LARZAC
THE GREAT COMBO Living in Toronto, I’m fortunate to be exposed to many different cultures. Despite the fact that there are multitudes of dining options — all of which I like — I find myself often reverting back to Asian cuisine. I love Japanese, Chinese is great, Thai is a weekly staple, but most recently Korean has entered the mix. After being out one night and having some fantastic kimchi and bibimbap, my wife and I were inspired to recreate this at home. We started poring through recipes, and found a delicious Korean pork-belly nacho dish. This was the starting point for various Korean dishes; despite the fact that the first attempt at the nachos was an unheralded failure, our spirits were not crushed. A common staple, I realized, was cabbage in various forms. Since I’m still not ready to tackle kimchi, we researched and stumbled upon the concept of adding coleslaw to our cooking. We were eating many of these foods and similar flavour combos already, but hadn’t combined them all into one dish. And so, from that was born this delicious combo. At first we decided to put it on nachos, since it all started there anyway — it was a replacement to our standard Nacho Supreme (nachos but with fries, not chips; a delicious fast-food delight in its own right). After the first meal, it was evident we needed something else. That’s where the tacos came in. I like to add some fresh vegetables when I make them (green onions, shallots, cilantro) to still have some of the traditional taco feel. But if I have the time, and more importantly when I remember to make it ahead of time, I like to serve these with freshly picked vegetables (cucumber, carrots and shallots). This replaces the acid of a lime in a traditional taco and seems to take this version to the next level. 18 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
KOREAN-STYLE TACOS 1 1 2 1 2 2 2 1 2 1/4 12-16
tbsp vegetable oil onion, chopped cloves garlic, finely diced lbs ground beef cups coleslaw mix tbsp rice wine vinegar tbsp fish sauce tbsp soy sauce tbsp sambal (or sriracha) Salt and pepper, to taste cup toasted sesame seeds fresh tortillas
1. Heat oil in a large pan over high heat. Add onion; cook for 1 minute. Add garlic and cook for 1/2 min. Add ground beef and cook for 5 minutes. 2. Add coleslaw mix and turn heat down to medium; stir to combine. Add rice wine vinegar, fish sauce, soy and sambal. Stir well and cook for an additional 5 minutes. 3. Add salt and pepper, or extra sambal/ sriracha, to taste. Add sesame seeds and take off heat. 4. Heat up tortillas to soften as per package directions. 5. Place meat mixture in warm tortillas. Serve and enjoy. MATCH: A light lager will work well — like the Mill Street Organic. ×
LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO
Drink your garden! THIS TIME OF YEAR, it’s only natural to want to max out your herb garden, and most of us already have some great ideas for how to eat it up. When it comes to pairing fresh greens with liquor, though, we tend to stop at mint, that wild, fast-growing, booze-friendly herb that goes with pretty much everything. It’s totally worth trying to think beyond the fresh green leaf, though. Cilantro works well in place of mint in almost any gin-based cocktail, since it can brighten up booze by imparting a lot of the same sharp and fresh flavours mint does. Borage is a must in a Pimm’s Cup; thyme is lovely with grapefruit. And a rosemary garnish — especially if it’s lightly charred — makes a very welcome addition to juicy, fresh lemon cocktails. Which leaves us basil — the problem child of the drinks world. It’s a tough one, since we tend to use it in savoury foods more than sweet, and its delicate flavour and fragrance can easily be lost if mixed with strong flavours. “When working with stuff like that, I often don’t read cocktail books. Instead, I read a lot of cookbooks,” says Simon Ho, owner of Fat City Blues, a New Orleans-inspired cocktail bar in Toronto’s West End. “You’ll see some flavour combinations that work well together with basil, like strawberries and black pepper or watermelon and lemon.” Before he opened his own bar, Ho worked for a decade at the Drake Hotel, where he was well known for his seasonal approach to fresh and refreshing spring and summer cocktails. He says that when experimenting at home, “a little goes a long way,” since it’s easy to get carried away and use too much of a good thing. You don’t win friends with salad. Rule number two? Don’t pulverize the herbs. A gentle muddle is as much pressure as you want to apply. Some cocktail recipes even instruct the bartender to shake the herbs into the drink (then strain them out), since over-working the herb can bring out a bitter flavour. Finally, when you apply a herb garnish, smack it on your palm first to release all the plant’s aromatic qualities. A good, fragrant garnish can fool the palate into believing there’s more of that fresh flavour in the drink than there actually is. Since we tend to use more fresh herbs in the summer, many of us turn towards gin, vodka or white rum — traditional warm-weather spirits. Ho urges people to try to mix outside of their comfort zone and start playing around with different
× Visit quench.me/search-mixed/ for more drink recipes
liquors. The Mint Julep, after all, is a brilliant mix of bourbon and mint, even though the combo of the two might seem counter-intuitive to many people. Fernet-Branca gets along famously with mint, as does brandy. “In the past, for anything with basil, I immediately started with gin,” Ho says. “This year, I’ve been leaning a lot more towards rum, mezcal and tequila instead. Not everything has worked. It can take a few failures before you figure out the perfect formula.” Fortunately for us, we don’t have to reinvent the wheel, since Ho has supplied this excellent, light, summery basil/tequila cocktail. Exactly the sort of thing he’s known for.
FAT CITY SMASH
2 4 2 2 1/4 1
fresh strawberries fresh basil leaves cracked Szechuan peppercorns oz tequila (blanco) oz St Germain elderflower liqueur oz lemon juice
In a shaker, gently muddle together strawberries, basil and cracked pepper. Add tequila, elderflower liqueur, lemon juice and ice. Shake and strain into a chilled rocks glass with crushed ice. Garnish with sprig of basil. × JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 19
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BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL
Thanks to a rail system that runs pretty much with military precision (especially if you forget to punch your own ticket), you can pack a lot of eating and drinking into one tour of the peninsula. While it might not be everyone’s first choice, if you can go to only one place, my pick is the region of Veneto in the northeast. Home to Valpolicella (with its Amarone and Ripasso wines), Bardolino (and the beautiful Lake Garda) and the awe-inspiring walled city of Soave, it’s a cornucopia of liquid fun. Plus, if there’s a more attractive, wine-centric city than Verona (think restos and enotecas that come with a view of a majestic Roman arena), I’ve yet to visit it. Then, of course, there is its capital of Venice. You can drive west to Piedmont (where Barolo, Barbaresco and the Nebbiolo grape rule) in under three hours. Look “beautiful” up on the Internet and you’ll see a picture of the Langhe, the hilly area in the heart of the region. Want to try wines you can’t get at home? Piedmont’s exports are a drop in the bucket of what it produces, which makes it Valhalla for anyone who loves discovering boutique beverages. And don’t get me started on the food. The triad of Italy’s most famous wine hotspots is complete with a few days in Tuscany, arguably Italy’s most well-known plot of juice-pressing geography thanks to its subregion of Chianti. Taking the old-route drive between Florence and Siena is like stepping back in time. Been to the big three? Head south to Campania. As a super fan of the Aglianico grape, I’m a tad biased, but the region is still so undiscovered (even with all the culinary wonders invented in Naples) that it needs to be experienced to be fully appreciated. Marche, on the country’s central backbone, is another hidden treasure, especially if you love white wine. Just off the coast of the tip of Italy’s boot, Sicily looks like the mainland is about to give it a swift kick. Don’t let that deter you. The island is a true gem, especially if you’re a fan of unique, indigenous grapes. You could easily spend your entire time abroad tasting its wonders. And I didn’t even mention Rome. Oh, I just did. ×
A friend suggested that The Spritz is a great summertime drink. What do you think? I agree, Smedly. The bright orange cocktail (a simple combination of bubbly Prosecco, Aperol apéritif and sparkling mineral water), first pieced together in Italy’s Veneto region, ticks all the boxes to be a perfect summer (or anytime) sipper. Low in alcohol, but big on bright and bitter flavour, The Spritz has been a pre-dinner ritual for Italians since it was invented way back in the 1800s. If you want to dip into its history, mixology mavens Talia Baiocchi and Leslie Pariseau’s new book Spritz: Italy’s Most Iconic Aperitivo Cocktail, with Recipes (Random House) treats the refreshing libation with the reverence typically reserved for kings, queens and the Martini.
ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM
I’m planning a trip to Italy. What are the best places to visit for a wine lover? Since we’re talking Italy here, if you like wine, odds are wherever you land is going to be one Mickey Mouse shy of Disney World. Though it may not be the largest country on Earth (it’s actually #71), Italy is long and lean with three distinctive zones (north, central and south) and 20 unique regions that are all vying for your precious palate. Assuming this is your first visit, there are books and websites aplenty that will go into way more detail than I can here regarding all that Italy has to offer a wine tourist, so take my broader suggestions and dig deeper as you plan your trip.
× Ask your questions at bonvivant@quench.me
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LOVE AND ATTENTION by Gurvinder Bhatia
REMARKABLY, THERE ARE STILL THOSE WHO BELIEVE THAT YOU CAN’T PAIR WINE WITH INDIAN FOOD. And not just consumers, but re-
spected wine industry professionals, including the three wine and food writers from New York with whom I had dinner at Vikram Vij’s My Shanti restaurant in South Surrey, BC. Perhaps it’s because most Asian cuisines evolved in the absence of domestic wine cultures. Or, maybe the exotic, multi-faceted and distinctive flavours of spices such as cardamom, coriander and turmeric, unfamiliar to the European and North American palates when first introduced to these nations, have created a perception that they are beyond the realm of marrying with wine. Fear of failure (in achieving a decent pairing) results in taking the easy way out ... beer. 22 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
Thankfully, opinions are changing (the New York wine writers were complete converts by the end of our dinner). The growing popularity of Indian cuisine in North America and Europe has helped. As has the emergence of a growing and evolving wine culture in India. India’s population of 1.2 billion encompasses a middle class of 500 million people and the top one percent of income earners possess an inordinate amount of wealth. Interest in wine is growing rapidly, which naturally leads to greater experimentation in pairing with the cuisine. Within 20 years, in my opinion, India will be the largest and most significant wine market in the world (but that’s a subject for a future column). The individual most responsible in Canada for the increased acceptance of the marriage of wine with Indian cuisine may be Vancouver-based Chef Vikram
Vij. A certified sommelier, he immigrated to Canada in the late 1980s from India via culinary school in Austria. He worked at Bishops and Rain City Grill, two restaurants at which, as Vij states, “wine was always a focus.” When he opened his own restaurant, Vij’s, in 1994, he wanted people to get used to drinking wine with Indian cuisine. The wine list was small (five whites, five reds and one rosé) and all wines were priced the same. The list was small due to a lack of space and the fact that Vij “didn’t have any money.” All the wines were priced the same because he didn’t want his customers to select wines based on price, but instead on the style they wanted to drink. His mark-up was relatively small compared to most restaurants since he wanted to encourage people to drink wine with the food.
Vij attributes one of the turning points in the public’s willingness to give wine with Indian food a try to a column by Vancouver Sun wine writer Anthony Gismondi suggesting wine pairings with dishes from Vij’s restaurant. He noticed an immediate difference in the attitude of diners as the column “gave people the sense that pairing wine with Indian food was all right and something to try.” Supporting local has always been important to Vij. His culinary philosophy is to use traditional Indian spices, flavours and techniques with locally-sourced meats, seafood and produce. This philosophy extends to his support of the BC wine industry. Early on, Vij connected with BC wineries such as Kettle Valley, Poplar Grove and Blue Mountain. He worked with them to put many of their limited production wines on his wine list. This led to the wineries requesting to be paired with Vij’s for the many food and wine shows held annually in Vancouver. Vij sees these events as the catalyst for the numerous wine and food pairing events and winemakers’ dinners that have raised the profile of serving wine with Indian cuisine.
His desire to support local resulted in an all-BC wine list for his My Shanti restaurant. For Vij, My Shanti is simply an extension of Vij’s with the same “love and attention” devoted to all aspects of the food, beverage, décor and customer experience. My Shanti is a reflection of Vij’s travels throughout India and the diversity of the country’s cuisine whether served at home, in a restaurant or at the many street food stands. I love the food and experience at Vij’s, but quite frankly, eating at My Shanti takes me back to the flavours of my aunties’ homes in Delhi and eating at the street food stands with my cousins in Calcutta. And the all-BC wine list totally works. It certainly helps that due to our cool climate conditions, Canadian wines, in general, tend to stylistically be a great match with Indian cuisine. Fresh, elegant and possessing natural acidity, quality well-balanced Canadian wines have a natural affinity for any cuisine. While Vij is commonly heard to say “drink what you feel like drinking” when asked what styles of wines tend to pair best with his cuisine, his wine director Mike Bernardo advises to stay away from wines that are heavily oaked, overly tannic and excessively alcoholic as they will clash with the spices and accentuate the heat. In fact, heavily oaked, overly tannic and excessively alcoholic wines are not good food wines in general, regardless of the type of cuisine. Pairing wine with Indian cuisine really is no different from pairing with any other style of food. Consider flavours, weight and texture, and look for wines that are well balanced. It is also important to dispel the notion that all Indian food is exceedingly spicy-hot. Spice doesn’t just translate to heat, more often it translates to flavour. Also, because of religion, geography and history, Indian cuisine is very diverse and regional, from tandoori dishes in the north to the spicy vindaloos of the south. Bernardo admittedly had very little knowledge or experience with Indian cuisine “beyond late-night eating after work while living in Scotland” when he first started to work for Vij as a server some 14 years ago. But his interest grew and, as Vij describes, “Mike’s love of wine developed to where he now has 10 times the knowledge I have.”
Vij’s approach to staff training seems to have played a significant part, particularly early on when serving wine with Indian food was largely non-existent. At the end of each night, staff were able to eat any dish they wanted off the menu and have a glass of wine. This allowed the staff to experiment by trying different wines with the various dishes, become familiar and comfortable with the combinations and share their own experiences with the diners. Vij believes that this approach was much more effective than holding staff wine seminars as instead of simply regurgitating the information to their customers, the servers approach was much more genuine and sincere. Not surprisingly, wine sales increased immediately. Bernardo expands on this philosophy by finding out what style of wine customers generally drink and suggesting something similar, but outside what they might be used to, in order to achieve a better pairing with the food. For example, if a customer wants an oaky Chardonnay (which would not pair well with the cuisine), Bernardo’s go-to suggestion is a single vineyard, lightly oaked Grüner Veltliner from Austria. If the customer is unsure, he suggests that they try it, offering to find them something else and “drink this one” himself if they are not happy with it. According to Bernardo, “so far, no one has given it back.” Vij’s success has led to Indian restaurants across Canada (and beyond) to focus on building wine programs that complement the cuisine. Vij is constantly traveling, participating in culinary festivals and collaborative dinners to not just spread the gospel of Indian cuisine, but to help people understand that, with respect to wine, it shouldn’t be treated differently than any other style of food. His engaging, genuine, energetic, humble and warm enthusiasm is infectious and inspiring. The next evolution, explains Vij, will be to focus on the regionality of Indian cuisine and help people to recognize the differences between the dishes from the various regions. But he doesn’t stop there. Vij’s desire is to match the terroir of the region inspiring a dish with the wines from a region possessing a complementary terroir. It’s difficult to imagine a better ambassador to dispel the “wine can’t pair with Indian food” myth. × JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 23
GARBAGE-Y by Michael Pinkus
I recently heard Vidal described as a “garbage-y grape”, so when the editors of Quench approached me about what grape I’d like to highlight in this year’s “living local” issue, I jumped at the chance to find out just how “garbage-y” Vidal actually is. And while Vidal might not have the prestige of Riesling, Chardonnay or (gasp) Pinot Gris these days, it still makes some of the most expensive wine found in a half bottle made in Canada (Icewine). To call it “garbage-y” seemed to me a bit of a disconnect. So I thought it best to talk to those who make it and find out their opinion on the matter.
Winemaker Gavin Robertson has a unique opportunity at Niagara College Teaching Winery. Along with his students, he crafts each vintage.
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“I enjoy Vidal and what it offers,” says Sue-Ann Staff, winemaker for her eponymous label Staff in Ontario. “When made well and with respect, it is elegant, fruity and very enjoyable.” Her 2015 Lavelle’s Vidal (reviewed on the next page) shows a real playfulness, both on the palate and in the name: “[the wine was] named after my grandfather who loved everything sweet, including caramels, boxes of chocolates and women.” Sweet is sadly how most people see Vidal being made, as a sweet dessert-style wine, but it can also make some serious dry wines: “We have long been promoters of this workhorse grape for making unpretentious, dry table wines and at friendly price points,” reports Darryl MacMillan, Sales and Marketing Manager for Pelee Island Winery (Ontario). In his opinion “[it is] vitally important in introducing new people to the VQA Ontario category.”
Out west, it’s a double-edged sword according to two wineries who had two very differing philosophies about what to do with the grape. Stag’s Hollow purchased a vineyard in 1992 planted with Vidal and Chasselas, their first two wines were Vidal-based because that was all they had to work with, but it was always their intention to rip it out in favour of more serious grapes. Owner Linda Pruegger takes the story over from there: “In about 2002, we gave our customers a heads-up that this would be the last vintage of our Vidal as we were going to replant [the vineyard] to Sauvignon Blanc; it had become the most popular wine in the tasting room so many expressed their disappointment that we would no longer have it. We re-thought our decision and ended up inter-planting Sauvignon Blanc into our Vidal block. We rebranded the Vidal to ‘Tragically Vidal’ because at that time most of the Vidal was pulled out of the Valley.” Since that time there has been a real attitude change towards the grape: “[Today we see it as] a perfect wine for summer tourists passing through the Okanagan … we have even planted more vines in a new vineyard to increase production to make it more [widely] available.” On the other hand, Arrowleaf specifically planted Vidal in 1999 for the production of Icewine and Late Harvests because, “[it] is a quintessentially Canadian wine,” says winemaker Manuel Zuppiger … and one we should be fiercely proud of because “this country pioneered [the wine]; it is not simply an imitation of something that has/had already been done in Europe or elsewhere in the world.” But Manuel also recognizes the grape has an uphill climb for respect: “It is a hybrid grape variety and therefore it sometimes gets snubbed in favour of more ‘serious’ offerings, but its wines never show any of the supposed shortcomings of a hybrid grape.” With the kinds of respect being paid to the grape more plantings, naming after beloved family members, gateway wine to the VQA category - it’s hard to label it “garbage-y.” Instead, it might just be what Manuel Zuppiger called “the quintessentially Canadian” grape.
QUAI DU VIN VIDAL 2015, ONTARIO ($12) If the floral and beeswax notes don’t impress you, just wait for that delightful pineapple finish.
SUE-ANN STAFF LAVELLE’S VIDAL 2015, ONTARIO ($16) Sweet yet with apple and pear – it’s simple and tasty with nice acid balance for easy drinking enjoyment.
PELEE ISLAND VIDAL/CHARDONNAY BLANC DE BLANC 2013, ONTARIO ($10.95) Dry Vidal can develop a beeswax note along with floral but this one also possesses apple and orange zest all balanced with nice acidity.
NIAGARA COLLEGE TEACHING WINERY COLLEGE WHITE 2013, ONTARIO ($11) Vidal and Chardonnay make pretty good bedfellows; this simple wine has floral, apple skin and herbal notes with peach pit and apricot on the finish.
After working at several elite wineries, David Stasiuk settled in as winemaker at Rockway Vineyards
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NIAGARA COLLEGE TEACHING WINERY BALANCE WHITE 2012, ONTARIO ($12) Grapefruit zest/pith with lemon drop and beeswax; considering its age, it is still delightfully drinkable.
SOUTHBROOK CONNECT WHITE 2014, ONTARIO ($15.95) A real kitchen sink blend that begins with Vidal then adds Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc; the nose proves to be nondescript due to all those grapes but the palate has pear, orange zest, citrus, peach and pineapple to spare.
STAG’S HOLLOW TRAGICALLY VIDAL 2015, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($16.99) Pour this blind and you’ll swear it’s Gewürztraminer or at least Gewürzt-esque with its floral/violet/rose petals along with Bosc pear and spicy finish.
ROCKWAY ROSÉ SPRITZ PATIO 9 2014, ONTARIO ($14) This off-white version of Vidal adds Cabernet to the mix and has a light and lively spritziness that helps to enhance the strawberry, floral, raspberry and even a tart/spicy finish – quite refreshing.
ROCKWAY LATE HARVEST VIDAL 2013, ONTARIO ($16) Another beauty from Rockway; this sweetie is delicately sweet with apple, peach and pear compote, all touched with a dollop of honey.
ARROWLEAF VIDAL SELECT LATE HARVEST 2014, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($21.90) Well-made Select Late Harvest is worth its weight in gold, and this Arrowleaf proves why: delicate with nuances of honey drizzled over apple, pear and apricot cocktail; subtle and not too sweet – very balanced with sweetness and acidity.
THREE DOG WINERY DOG HOUSE WHITE 2014, ONTARIO ($12.95) This basically dry version brings back the beeswax and floral side of Vidal adding apple to the mid-palate and finish.
STAG’S HOLLOW TRAGICALLY VIDAL 2014, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($16.99) This version is Riesling-like with its sweet pear, peach, apple, apricot and mineral/stoniness; good acidity on the finish and some of that signature Stag’s Hollow spiciness also shows up for good measure.
PELEE ISLAND LOLA NV, ONTARIO ($13)
Pelee Island winemaker, Martin Janz
ROCKWAY WHITE 2015, ONTARIO ($12.95) Vidal and Riesling make a beautiful baby together: gentle sweetness with pear, apple and peach with hints of peach pit on the finish – lively, delicious and delightful.
ROCKWAY VIDAL SPRITZ PATIO 9 2014, ONTARIO ($13) Think of this as Ontario’s version of Moscato with its notes of pétillant bubbles – sweet peach flavour with apple show up on the finish; it’s well balanced so as not to come off too sweet.
ROCKWAY VIDAL ICEWINE 2013, ONTARIO ($29.95) Keeping with their established theme of delicate sweetness, here honey-peach-apple-pear and pineapple syrup meld together beautifully, all with well-balanced and great cut-the-sweetness acidity. 26 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
This Vidal-Chambourcin sparkling wine made in the Charmat method is sealed under screwcap for easy access: raspberry-strawberry and floral notes take center-stage with a nice peachy mid-palate.
PELEE ISLAND LATE HARVEST VIDAL 2013, ONTARIO ($11.95) As the name suggests, this late harvest gives the wine a slight sweetness of floral, apple and pear lightly kissed by wildflower honey, all with a long finish. Try with BBQ grilled peaches or brie tarts.
INNISKILLIN SPARKLING VIDAL ICEWINE 2014, ONTARIO ($79.95) The best of two worlds collide: sparkling wine and Icewine — imagine pineapple, apricot, peach and honey with a nice fizzy bubble all with a butterscotch-caramel finish. Did I mention the bubbles? ×
SUPER DUPER by Lisa Hoekstra
Superfoods are sitting in your grocery basket disguised as their mild-mannered alter egos. They’re waiting for the chance to jump into action and battle supervillains in your body, like cell damage, inflammation, disease and anemia. While they don’t fly around pulling people from burning buildings, they have a multitude of other “powers” that make them truly super. “A superfood … is nutrient-dense, rich in vitamins, minerals and antioxidants, and highly beneficial for overall health and well-being,” explains Sophie Jaffe, a certified raw food nutritionist and chef. Jaffe’s company, Philosophie, promotes a healthy diet through the regular inclusion of superfood products, offering up cleanses and recipes to their customers and readers. So it’s safe to say she is familiar with all the alter egos of our favourite superfoods. Another man on the “in” with superfoods is Benjamin Sit, a registered dietitian nutritionist and sports dietitian; he is also the owner, founder and president of Evolved Sport and Nutrition in Toronto, a company dedicated to helping athletes (and everyone else) boost their potential for sustainable health and energy. According to him, the term “superfood” is a bit of a trick. “The issue with superfoods is that they’re marketed in a specific way and the marketing tends to focus on exotic foods that may not be available to everyone, like goji berries,” says Sit. “There are
superfoods that … are widely available …. [They’re] hiding in plain sight but aren’t marketed the same way as other superfoods that are ‘new’ and ‘exciting’.” This is akin to the media constantly telling people how Superman has “saved the day” yet again, while Bruce Wayne opens the door to his bat cave exhausted, and without any acclaim. I asked our two superfood experts for the inside scoop on the mild-mannered superfoods in disguise; they helped pull the mask off some very interesting characters.
#1 ALMONDS
Nuts in general are a great source of healthy unsaturated fats, omega-3 fatty acids, polyphenols that keep your heart healthy, protein, fibre and antioxidants, but almonds would dominate if you made them all duke it out in a ring. “Almonds are a great brain food,” says Jaffe. “High in vitamin E, skin nourishing, loaded with heart-healthy monounsaturated
fats and full of fibre. All of these qualities make a handful of almonds an awesome snack.” If you’re not a big almond fan, walnuts are a good alternative — they have alpha-Linolenic Acid (ALA), an omega-3 fatty acid linked to heart health and mood improvements.
#2 BLACK BEANS
Beans, beans, they’re good for your heart, the more you eat, the more you feel good about your food choices. “I think beans need to be highlighted for a lot of people as a better dietary choice,” states Sit. There’s good reason — one cup of black-masked wonders has 15 grams of fibre and 15 grams of protein. “It’s not a meat protein,” mentions Sit. Meat proteins are quick to digest while plant proteins are slower; the slower digestion rate helps regulate blood sugar. Sit explains: “It can help reduce total saturated fat intake …. [provide] heart protection, antioxidants and iron.” Beans are a great source of iron, with 13 mg per 3/4 cup. JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 27
“Another thing that I think is really cool too in terms of black beans,” Sit adds, “The World Health Organization has declared 2016 to be the year of the pulses and legumes, because they’ve realized that focusing more on beans and vegetable protein to meet your protein requirements can be more economical and is actually more beneficial for personal health and the health of the environment.”
#3 BLUEBERRIES
Blueberries were actually Sit’s first vote for superfood-status. “It has an unusually high nutrient-density,” says Sit. “[As well as] antioxidants that protect against cell damage … [and] diseases like certain cancers. They’re good at that and very tasty.” Blueberries are also high in fibre (four grams per cup) and anthocyanins, antioxidants that keep your memory sharp. Blueberries aren’t the only berry on the scene that has crazy health powers — raspberries and strawberries help with digestion and promote weight loss with their high fibre content (eight grams per cup and three grams per cup, respectively), ellagic acid — an anti-cancer compound — levels (raspberries) and vitamin C (strawberries).
#4 BROCCOLI
According to Sit, Broccoli has a lot of vitamins and minerals like folic acid and vitamin B that “help with low-blood iron levels or disorders like anemia.” He goes on to explain that high folic acid intake is very beneficial for women who are trying to get pregnant (or plan to in the future). “It protects against neural tube defects in the first month of pregnancy, which is important because the first month of pregnancy can be when many women find out they are pregnant,” says Sit. “Meeting your folate requirements can help ensure a healthy baby.” “Dark leafy greens and crucifers like kale, spinach and broccoli are loaded with vital nutrients,” states Jaffe, providing an alternative green for those people who don’t like broccoli. This includes iron, calcium, potassium, magnesium and vitamin E. She adds: “They also contain Spirulina — a green algae made up of phytonutrients and antioxidants that help detoxify the body and fight free radicals.”
#5 CARROTS
While carrots don’t give you x-ray vision, they do help keep your eyesight sharp. “Carrots contain high amounts of vitamin
A, which our bodies use to strengthen our vision and protect against brittle skin and nails,” explains Jaffe. However, if the carrot taste is too much, try sweet potatoes or butternut squash. “Other orange veggies … are anti-inflammatory and great sources of B vitamins,” says Jaffe. Carotene is the compound that makes these orange; the body converts it into vitamin A, which means, for example, one medium sweet potato has four times the recommended daily value. Sweet potatoes, carrots and butternut squash “are great options for savoury smoothies or vegetable curries,” states Jaffe.
#6 EGGS
Eggs are on every breakfast menu for a reason: They’re easy to make and very filling. Turns out, they’ve been a superfood all along. “One of my favourite go-to proteins for a complete breakfast, lunch or dinner,” says Jaffe. “They taste great scrambled or poached but more importantly, they are rich in choline — a vitamin that is vital for brain development. This is one of the reasons why I make them for my kiddies.” Eggs have up to seven grams of protein, all nine essential amino acids and B12 vitamins (which are difficult to come by in food). “Eggs are also high in heart-healthy omega-3 fats, making them not only rich in flavour, but in nutrients as well,” Jaffe adds. The yolk alone contains lutein and zeaxanthin, antioxidants that improve eye health, reducing the risk of age-related macular degeneration. If you don’t have time to make eggs everyday, hard-boil a dozen over the weekend for easy-to-grab snacks throughout the week.
#7 FLAXSEED
“One of the superfoods that is poorly understood is flaxseed,” states Sit. “It adds omega-3 fatty acids, increases fibre intake and helps people with IBS manage their gastric health.” Like walnuts, Flaxseed has ALA, which reduces inflammation; and like black beans, the protein is plantbased. “The issue I find with a lot of people is that they don’t use 28 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
PHOTO: JOANNA KOSINSKA/UNSPLASH.COM
it properly,” says Sit. “In order to get the health benefits, it has to be milled and the husk has to be broken.” So, if you’re branching out into flaxseed, make sure it’s been milled into flour.
SOPHIE JAFFE
#8 PURSLANE
“Purslane is a highly abundant plant, but most people haven’t heard of it and are unaware of all of its amazing health benefits,” says Jaffe. “This is likely due to the fact that it’s basically a garden weed.” But this garden weed is packed with disease-fighting nutrients, like omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin C, potassium, magnesium and the highest amount of vitamin E in all plant-based foods, according to Jaffe. “It has a mild, lemon flavour,” mentions Jaffe. “Which makes it a perfect addition to a homemade pesto.”
#9 SALMON
Fish has long been an ingredient on heart-friendly grocery lists. Those “in the know” are familiar with the high levels of vitamin D and B12, selenium, protein and omega-3 fatty acids. “The body can’t produce [omega-3s] itself,” states Sit. “These … help to reduce inflammation and promote a healthier blood profile.” Of all the fish in the world though, salmon is the best meat-based superfood, because of its high omega-3 fatty acids level. Sit explains: “replacing red meats with salmon is a good way to decrease your saturated fat intake.” This, in turn, keeps the heart healthy. Aim to eat one six-ounce salmon fillet, two to four times a week.
#10 TOMATOES
Probably the most familiar and well known in its every-day disguise, tomatoes are often incorporated into our daily menu without our even realizing it. Which is great, becaause they’re actually pretty super. “Tomatoes have a large amount of lycopene — an antioxidant that is not available in a lot of foods,” states Sit. “It promotes skin health, and guards against liver disease and cancers, like prostate cancer.” Tomatoes are also high in vitamin C, potassium, fibre and other nutrients, according to Sit. Next time you’re making a salad or sandwich, toss in your friendly red tomato. ×
make your menu a little more super
Knowing which pantry items possess the powers of superfood is just the first step. The next step is incorporating these foods into your week. There’s a tendency in all of us to load up with just the “good stuff” right off the bat - this is actually the wrong approach; too much of a good thing can be bad. “Kale is very beneficial,” says Sit. “But over the past few years, people have gone overboard. There have been reports where people have eaten so much that … [they] started becoming more tired; hair started falling out, irregular heartbeats and digestive issues. It turns out that their entire diet was made of kale … [this] caused them to have too many naturally occurring heavy metals, like Thallium and Cessium, which in high doses can cause negative health effects.” Don’t load down your menu with these 10 superfoods. Instead, incorporate them into your regular diet. “Consciously eat foods because you love how they taste, and you love how they make you feel,” suggests Jaffe. “That’s the most important part.” “Nutrition … is all about finding balance and sustainability,” says Sit. “Finding a way to add healthy foods and relying less on [unhealthy] foods.” He suggests swapping out iceberg lettuce with broccoli, adding tomatoes to your salad or sandwich, and serving your dinner with a side of steamed black beans. Be wary of imposters, like supplements. “Your body can only use a certain amount of vitamins at one time,” explains Sit. “To have all these nutrients jammed into a supplement, you’re just buying expensive urine.” If your diet is imbalanced, talk to a dietitian before throwing your money down the drain. These experts will help you unmask a few superfood options of your own for your weekly menu.
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THE MINDFUL EATER by Joanne Will
I’ve always enjoyed eating meat. Lamb in particular, but give me roast turkey or chicken, the odd steak, bison or fish and I’m a happy omnivore. A switch several years ago to organic, ethically raised animals and the taste texture, and load on my conscience improved. But still, the vast literature on the health, world hunger and environmental impacts of meat consumption and production weighed.
On the prairies, where I grew up, at any given time our cavernous basement freezer contained roughly a whole cow, cut and wrapped in sections. We ate meat at most meals. To do so was the local culture, and the culture of the nation. My family was eating as our friends and neighbours did, with a plentiful and affordable supply of animal protein. But it wasn’t always thus. For our grandparents and generations previous, meat was something rare and special. Eaten infrequently, in some households and certain eras only on Sundays, and in modest portions. Typically, the whole animal was consumed — from tongue to tail. When factory production and transportation networks reduced the price and increased the availability of meat, so did the amount and frequency of this indulgence on our plates. I say indulgence, because what we now know about meat — the impacts of large-scale production and consumption — signals that it should be eaten mindfully, and in moderation. Single servings have burgeoned far beyond the recommended fist-size, and here in North America, meat is often consumed without pause, at every meal. Scientific research tells us that if we are going to deal with health issues and climate change, we will have to eat a lot less meat. It’s no surprise, then, that the United Nations has declared 2016 the “Year of the Pulse,” to help spread knowledge of the protein-rich class of dried legumes that includes beans, peas, lentils, and chickpeas. Pulses also contain significant nutrients and fibre, require a fraction of the ecological footprint of meat production, transport easily and store well. 30 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
In order to address the prevailing issue of world hunger, scientists also say it’s not a population issue — but a transition to a diet based much more heavily on plants (eat food, not too much, mostly plants — as author Michael Pollan has been telling us for a decade) that’s required. In the western world, we produce a tremendous volume of grain to feed livestock. Today, 98 percent of the US soy crop, and 36 percent of the corn crop is grown solely for that purpose (40 percent of the US corn crop goes to biofuels). Total emissions from global livestock production is seven-point-one Gigatonnes of Co2-equivalent per year, representing 14.5 percent of all human-induced GHG emissions. In North America, in addition to the overconsumption of meat, we don’t consume nearly enough vegetables. The most recent data from the US Department of Agriculture reveals that 87 percent of adults failed to meet the recommended intake of twoand-a-half to three cups per day. What’s more, the vegetables on our plates are largely potatoes, tomatoes and lettuce. While they have their place, to avoid deleterious health outcomes, dietary guidelines indicate we should be consuming dark leafy greens, and deep orange and yellow vegetables too. With fragments of this knowledge in mind, as a trial — an experiment, I gave up the culinary pleasures of flesh (foregoing the consumption of creatures of land, air and sea) for a little over 40 days and 40 nights. My longest stretch without meat since infancy coincided with Lent, the solemn observance that begins on Ash Wednesday and ends six weeks later on Easter Sunday. PHOTO: GABRIEL GURROLA/UNSPLASH.COM
Lenten observance had never been part of my religious tradition, however, I previously watched my boyfriend pass up meat for Lent and this season I was ready to try it, too. We did it together, and when apart, we checked in on each other: How do you feel? What did you eat today? Are you tempted? It wasn’t always easy, especially as the weeks rolled on. I began to notice billboards and ads for steaks and burgers everywhere, and at times, thought I might not make the home stretch without caving to a craving. My greatest moment of temptation came in New Haven, Connecticut, at Miya Sushi on the Yale campus. Invasive species are always the plat du jour at Miya, a restaurant which, under the guidance of highly-inventive chef and invasivore Bun Lai, is renowned for leading the way in alternative protein exploration. My thinking was: to try a breaded zebra mussel from the Mississippi, or beet-infused carp sashimi; when else might I have the chance? The kitchen staff and servers at Miya, however, did an impressive job of accommodating our meat-free limitations. After a dozen delicious vegetable courses, we were left wanting for nothing. Some of the other diners at our table tried to convince us that the Crickleberry Roll (fried crickets, yes, along with brie and apricots, wrapped in nori) was permissible on a meat-fee diet, but that wasn’t a risk we were willing to take. Now, the trial is concluded, and I’m back to eating meat, though less frequently. I continue to reflect on the meat-free experience, and the results of my current actions and choices. I didn’t feel physically different while off meat, apart from the handful of aforementioned cravings. I ate fewer mashed potatoes — the usual accompaniment to all manner of meat dishes. Mentally, and creatively, the difference in feeling was vast. Above all, a meat-free period was an opportunity to be mindful about eating, and to learn.
New recipes and restaurants were discovered — establishments that specialize in flavourful, plentiful vegetable dishes that I wouldn’t have otherwise made the effort to try. This in turn helped inspire a search for meals to make at home: celeriac root sliced into “steaks,” then braised in the oven and topped with cheese, roasted brussels sprouts, kale chips — a crunchy, satisfying appetizer, and the joy of an entire pie made from onions. Dinner party hosts were accommodating and also provided inspiration: steamed artichokes with a creamy, spicy vegan dip, hearty homemade sweet potato gnocchi; I could go on. The conversations you have with people, and their reactions when they hear you’re taking a break from meat were interesting. We were never scolded, and frequently congratulated by folks who said they wished to try the same. On other occasions we encountered life-long vegetarians who vehemently reinforced their belief in the benefits of abstaining from meat altogether. Another welcome discovery was that a diet heavy on legumes did not result in what the naysayers for beans and other plant-based sources of protein would have you believe. I found solace and truth in the observations of Benjamin Franklin, who addressed the benefits of vegetable versus meat intake in his famous essay about flatulence. From Franklin’s 1781 Letter to the Royal Academy of Brussels: “He that dines on stale Flesh, especially with much Addition of Onions, shall be able to afford a Stink that no Company can tolerate; while he that has lived for some Time on Vegetables only, shall have that Breath so pure as to be insensible to the most delicate Noses.” I’m eating meat again, in limited quantities, but my worldview has shifted. Putting it in my mouth is no longer a mindless act, and the vegetable kingdom has opened up before me, alive with possibility. × JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 31
THE ERY GRE
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E TREACHY OF INEDIENTS We too often forget that some of our favourite things play double duty. In the case of grapes, they work as well on our plates as they do in our glass. These recipes play homage to this underappreciated orb.
GRAPE AND BALSAMIC REDUCTION 1/2 1/2 3
cup grapes Splash of olive oil cup balsamic vinegar tbsp brown sugar
1. Preheat the oven to 450˚F. 2. Line a baking sheet with parchment
paper. Put the grapes in a bowl and add a splash of olive oil. Toss to coat grapes. 3. Place the grapes evenly on the baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes. The grapes will break open and dry out a bit. After finished baking, set aside. 4. Combine balsamic and sugar in a small saucepan, stirring until the sugar completely dissolves. 5. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, allowing mixture to boil rapidly for about 4 to 5 minutes, stirring continuously. 6. Add the baked grapes and stir for another 2 minutes, squashing them gently against the side of the pan.
7. Turn off heat and pour mixture into
a heat-safe container; allow to cool on the counter. Clean the pan right away or else the mixture will dry and become extremely sticky and hard to clean. 8. Once completely cooled, place in the refrigerator. It should keep for at least two weeks. Use on salads or simply drizzle on top of thin slices of baguette with sliced grapes, fig and blue cheese.
VENDANGES CAKE
You don’t have to be working in the fields to enjoy this cake. Serve with a Beaumes de Venise or Madeira. You can also drizzle some of the previously mentioned reduction for an interesting boost of flavour.
2 large eggs, at room temperature 2/3 cup sugar 4 tbsp unsalted butter, melted 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/3 cup whole milk 1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 3/4 tsp baking powder A pinch of sea salt Grated lemon zest Grated orange zest 300 g small, fresh grapes Confectioner’s sugar, for garnish 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Generously butter and flour a
springform pan, removing any excess flour. Set aside. 3. Using an electric mixer fitted with a whisk, beat the eggs and sugar until thick and lemon-coloured, about 3 minutes. Add the butter, oil, milk and vanilla extract; mix until well blended. Turn off mixer. 4. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a seperate large bowl. Add the lemon and orange zest, and toss to coat the zest with flour. 5. Spoon the egg/sugar mixture into the flour batter and stir with a wooden spoon until blended. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and mix once more. Set aside for 10 minutes to allow the flour to absorb the liquids. 6. Gently stir 3/4 of the grapes into the batter. Spoon into the prepared cake pan and smooth out the top. 7. Place the pan in the centre of the oven. Bake for 15 minutes, then sprinkle the top of the cake with remaining grapes. Bake until the top is a deep golden brown and the cake feels quite firm when pressed with a fingertip, about 40 minutes more, for a total baking time of 55 minutes. 8. Place on a rack to cool. After 10 minutes, run a knife along the sides of the pan. Release and remove the side of the springform pan, leaving the cake on the base. Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar just before serving at room temperature. × JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 33
Thou shalt not covet thy neighbour’s vineyard. Repeat after me. Thou shalt not covet thy neighbour’s vineyard. But it’s OK to look.
FIELD TESTED By Rick VanSickle
It’s perfectly cool to gaze longingly over the fence at all that limestone-enriched dirt and those perfectly manicured rows of grapevines undulating gently in the summer breeze, but no coveting. That’s just wrong.
ROSOMEL VINEYARD
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NIAGARA WINE COUNTRY IS ONE BIG APPELLATION SPREAD ACROSS 13,600 ACRES AND CONNECTED BY SUB-APPELLATIONS and then broken down into hundreds
of vineyards and individual blocks within the vineyard. Not all sub-appellations, vineyards and blocks are created equal and the grass, or in this case the vines, always seem just a little a greener on the other side. Unless, of course, you are getting your fruit (or growing it yourself ) from one of dozens of the region’s most admired vineyards. They have familiar names, are planted in the right locations and tended to by the right people. The wines that are bottled each and every vintage are the best of what Niagara can do. And the vineyard name is displayed proudly on the label. So, the question we asked was this: What are the Top Four vineyards in Niagara? “Good luck with that,” Vineland Estate winemaker Brian Schmidt quickly replied after an email was sent out by this Quench scribe to nearly 40 winemakers, wine writers and industry stalwarts asking that very question. “This sure is a tough question because not only does the site matter but also how it’s nurtured,” chimed in Château des Charmes’ director of marketing Michèle Bosc. “Oh my, I think Brian is correct in that this is going to be a challenging one that will break a few hearts,” said Toronto-based wine writer Mike Di Caro. “But I think that it’s a good (question) and an important discussion to talk about top vineyard sites as the Niagara wine scene evolves and develops.” If place matters, if “terroir” is a thing, then it only stands to reason that exactly where you plant your grapes and what you do with them is everything. It is like that with the Cave Spring Vineyard on the Beamsville Bench. In 1978, the Pennachetti family was among the first to plant Riesling and Chardonnay vines in the Niagara Peninsula. The vineyard draws its personality from the escarpment’s limestone, shale and sandstone that’s rich in minerals, yet limited
Wes Lowery oversees the famed “Five Rows” vineyard
in organic matter, creating the perfect balance of nutrients for growing grapes displaying character and sophistication. CSV topped our informal Quench poll naming Niagara’s Top Four vineyards by a significant margin. Said Thirty Bench winemaker Emma Garner: “CSV is an epic Riesling vineyard, which helps to define our region and helps the world see what amazing Riesling we can make here.” The CSV Riesling from Jordan’s Cave Spring Cellars is on regular rotation at North America’s most influential wine magazine, Wine Spectator, and garners high scores vintage to vintage. It is, perhaps, the most famous single wine — that isn’t an Icewine — getting exposure beyond Canada’s borders. If the grass is always greener on the other side, you won’t catch Schmidt looking over the fence. The Vineland Estate winemaker stands on hallowed ground, a beauty of a vineyard steeped in history and soaked in one of the purest expressions of Riesling in all of Canada. It was the second-most important vineyard mentioned in the Quench poll. The St Urban Vineyard, tucked away in the heart of the Twenty Mile Bench, showcases the Weis 21 Riesling clone, brought to Canada by the winery’s founder, Hermann Weis. The first vines were planted in 1979 followed by more plantings in 1980 and 1981 to bring the total to 42 acres of Riesling with just a sprinkling of Chardonnay musqué. Hailing from the Mosel in Germany, Weis was an experienced grape-grower who knew exactly what would grow successfully in the Niagara Region. The original St Urban blocks are still intact with about 60 percent of the original vines (the rest replanted as needed) spread across seven distinct sections, or “fields,” of the vineyard. Schmidt bottles the St Urban and Reserve Rieslings most vintages and always has special vineyard- and block-specific bottlings for the winery’s dedicated wine club members. These always provide an exploration of the subtle differences in terroir shown JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 35
MOIRA VINEYARD
by individual blocks influenced by sunlight, geography and age of vines. The commonality in all the St Urban wines is a “tight, restrained and minerally-focused” profile with “racy acidity.” What makes a great single vineyard, says Schmidt, “is how it responds to the challenges and finding the consistency year after year. You need a common thread each vintage.” Schmidt has experimented endlessly with what works best in this fabled vineyard. He’s lowered and increased yields, compensated for hot, dry seasons and wet, cool ones. But after all the tweaking, he finds the magic potion at St Urban is really doing nothing at all. “You have to have the confidence to let the vineyard moderate itself,” he says. The vineyard is self-sufficient with a mind all of its own. With its limestone-clay composition, the old vines have deep roots and will always find the water level. “The ability of a vineyard to hold and retain that water is crucial,” he says. Schmidt says that with St Urban “it was a learning curve, but now we just get the [bad word here] out of the way and let the vineyard do its thing.” It’s like that with the world’s top vineyards and Niagara winemakers are just starting to realize the potential of these singular entities that shine brighter than the sub-appellations where they grow and the region as a whole. Niagara is blessed with a rich history (albeit short, in the scheme of things) of single vineyards that show consistency and quality vintage to vintage. Chateau des Charmes’ Paul Bosc Vineyard is the jewel of St Davids, planted in 1983 and 1984 over 60 acres just across the street from the winery on York Road with the first vintage in 1988. Winery founder Paul Bosc planted the vineyard, consisting of Smithville clay loam and small pockets of Haldimand clay loam, and the family patriarch still presides over the immaculately tended vines to this day. Grown in the vineyard are Chardonnay, 36 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Riesling. The Chardonnay was the first Canadian table wine to win a gold medal at VINEXPO. The enviable vineyard was mentioned by several respondents to the Quench poll as a top single vineyard in Niagara along with, but not confined to the following: Les Clos Jordanne Vineyard, launched in 2006, was a collaboration between Vincor Canada and France’s Boisset family, and is now owned by Constellation Brands. Using traditional Burgundian methods, the top wines from the Les Clos Vineyard, both the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, are some of the finest made in Niagara. Sadly, as of the 2012 vintage, Constellation announced it will not be making any more Le Clos wines due to back-to-back short crops. ROSOMEL VINEYARD, NUMBER FOUR IN OUR POLL, IS LOCATED SIX KILOMETRES TO THE EAST OF THE HIDDEN BENCH WINERY, at the base of the Niagara Escarp-
ment on the Beamsville Bench. It was purchased by Hidden Bench owner Harald Thiel in the fall of 2004. Consisting of 26 acres, Rosomel was planted in 1976 by Roman Prydatkewycz, now the viticulturist at Vineland Estate, and has produced award-winning wines consistently over the years. This site produces the fruit for Hidden Bench’s Nuit Blanche and La Brunante as well as the estate Vieille Vignes Chardonnay and the legendary Roman’s Block Riesling. Moira Vineyard on the Beamsville Bench, purchased in 1995, is the source of Malivoire’s original wines, notably the single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. So taken was owner Martin Malivoire by its breathtaking escarpment scenery, he also made it his home. With excellent drainage and a low water table, the Moira Vineyard is distinguished by vines whose deep roots ensure robust health and vigorous fruit acidity.
“These wines have always had harmony of aromatics, texture and length while aging infinitely … the 1998 [first vintage] is still showing beautifully,” commented Southbrook winemaker Ann Sperling. The list could go on, of course: Thirty Bench and its three Riesling blocks (Wood Post, Triangle and Steel Post), Lenko Vineyard’s historic plantings on the Beamsville Bench, the ubiquitous Wismer Vineyard (notably the Foxcroft, Wismer Parke and Wingfield blocks), plus Hidden Bench’s Felseck Vineyard and Flat Rock’s Nadja’s Vineyard. Then there’s the Lowrey Vineyard, coming in at number three in the poll, and perhaps the toughest ticket in Niagara to purchase the coveted fruit. Located in the St Davids Bench sub-appellation, the fifth-generation Lowrey property is a 35-acre vineyard that is the source for some of Ontario’s most prestigious wines made by accomplished winemakers. The Lowrey family has farmed the area for five generations — everything from cherries, plums and pears to labrusca grapes. It was only with the current generations, Howard and Wilma Lowrey and their son Wes, that vinifera was planted in the lower part of property they purchased from Howard’s dad in the early ‘80s. It was Karl Kaiser, co-founder of Inniskillin, who convinced the farming family to ditch the labrusca and turn to the emerging trend of vinifera (noble) varieties. The first grapes planted were the original “Five Rows” of Pinot Noir Clone 115, made famous in 1993 by the Alliance project, the first joint venture between Canada and France with Inniskillin and Jaffelin of Cote D’Or, Burgundy. Winemakers Kaiser and Bernard Repolt collaborated from 1993 to 2007 on these VQA wines, which caused a stir back in the day for their quality, closely aligned to Burgundian Pinot and Chardonnay, and had a cult-like following.
Inniskillin purchased the Lowrey fruit until 1999, then Niagara’s Creekside Estate Winery came knocking and took everything the Lowreys could grow, even convincing the family to plant Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah. Creekside was going through some changes, and in 2007, decided to abandon Pinot Noir, leaving the door open for Thomas Bachelder, who was just starting up his tri-country wine project; Ilya Senchuk, who was the winemaker at Foreign Affair but had embarked on a virtual wine project, Leaning Post (now a fullfledged winery in Winona); and Richie Roberts, the winemaker at Fielding Estate and more recently, the new Adamo Estate Winery in the Hockley Valley also got a piece. By 2007, Wes Lowrey, who studied oenology and viticulture at Brock University, was making his limited 800-case portfolio of wines, including Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Syrah and Riesling under the Five Rows Craft Wine label. The wines, having reached cult status, sell out quickly every vintage. It is one of the most unique opportunities in Niagara to see how Lowrey and other winemakers, who each get a small portion of the original Five Rows of Pinot Noir at Lowrey Vineyard, treat the fruit. “History has shown there are differences not only in the appellation but also in each vineyard, even over our 35 acres,” Wes Lowrey tells me over lunch. “How could you not think there’s something to be explored there? Old family farms, old blocks will show such varietal characteristics that we have to explore them.” The fruit from the Lowrey farm is some of the most sought after in Niagara with constant inquiries from winemakers wanting whatever they can get. “It tells me,” says Wes Lowrey, “that people are looking for single-vineyard wines in Niagara. It’s interesting that we have these little pockets where we can push forward terroir-driven wines. I just love seeing what Thomas [Bachelder] or Richie [Roberts] do with those grapes. It’s like a feather in your cap.” ×
ST URBAN VINEYARD
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REAL THING by Tim Pawsey
BC’s revolution in a bottle follows many a twist and turn: meaning that beer is now on a roll almost as much as wine. Lately cider too has been knocking at the door, as inquisitive palates have discovered that there’s a whole lot more to real cider than sugar primed commercial fizz, not too subtly disguised with the peach, pear or even raspberry flavour of the month. Speaking of commercial fizz, let’s not forget that BC’s post sacramental wine industry owes its early beginnings in part not to grapes but to apples, which were made into sparkling juice by the forerunner to Calona Wines. Not only that, but a key player and shareholder in the original company was early BC Premier W.A.C. Bennett, who, although a teetotaller, knew a good business opportunity when he saw one. Unpicked apples were lying around rotting, so in 1932, Bennett and his cohorts kick-started Domestic Wines and By-Products Co. In truth, though, good cider has been on the rise in BC for a couple of decades or more — ever since Scottish born Al Piggott decided it was time to show people what the real thing actually tasted like and opened Merridale Cider, on Vancouver Island. The Island — and the Gulf Islands in particular — enjoy a long history of fruit production, much of which was shipped to The Growers Cider Company (established in 1927). Piggot, who was a keen cider maker, purchased Growers’ grinder and fermenters when the plant was closed in the 1950s. He started growing apples and making cider in Metchosin, west of Victoria, before eventually moving to establish a six-hectare orchard in the Cowichan Valley’s Cobble Hill, which is warmer and more suited to cider apple growing. 38 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
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Piggott capitalised on the timely shift in liquor regulations that made possible farm-gate wineries — the driving force behind the modern-era BC wine industry. He figured the same estate grounded principals could and should be applied in cider-making; and went to work accordingly, setting up BC’s first licensed estate cidery. It was Piggott’s passion and determination that sowed the seeds for true craft cider in BC. His secret weapon was that, unlike most if not all of the big commercial producers, he used real cider apple trees. In fact, I can remember the moment precisely when I tasted my first drop of Merridale. It tasted just as I remembered from when I was young. As a child, I lived in Somerset, in the southwest of England, which is still very much celebrated for its cider lore. At the time that included the Coates Cider slogan, complete with local dialect: “Coates comes up from Zummerzet, Where the zoider apples grow ... “ We lived a few kilometres from Long Ashton Research Station, a pioneering orchard that had originally divided apple production into various categories according to their end use, as well as tracing and preserving numerous heritage varieties used in the UK to make cider over the centuries. Just to be sure, Piggott and I tasted a cider apple. It was tough, tart and tannic — not the daily kind for keeping the doctor away but perfect for making true cider. Piggott made a range of styles, from dry to semi sweet, and even the classic, legendary “Scrumpy” — an English West Country staple — which we nicknamed poor man’s Champagne. It was and still is challenging to North American palates used to sweeter commercial styles. However, Piggott persevered, even moving to plastic one and two litre bottles, as well as successfully placing his products in fledgling private wine stores, where they would be exposed to a more discriminating clientele.
KRISTEN NEEDHAM, FOUNDER AND CIDERMASTER AT SEA CIDER
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In 1999, Piggott sold to Rick Pipes and Janet Docherty, whose vision took Merridale to the next level, expanding the strains of apples grown to some 30 mainly English and French varieties. They also opened the popular Cider House bistro, as well as a distillery to make apple brandy and gin. The new owners built on Piggott’s idea and then some, developing what had started out as a humble cidery into a multi-faceted attraction, though never losing sight of that need for true cider quality. The range of styles is broad, with mainstays including the House Pub Style draught, which enjoys considerable popularity on tap around Vancouver Island. Merridale caters to purists with choices from a dry take on the pub draught to the Traditional dry sparkler which, in a “coals to Newcastle” moment has won in its category at the Bath & West Show, as well as at Hereford’s International Cider and Perry Competition. Scrumpy also still rules with an unabashed interpretation that celebrates with assertive flavours and a definite edge. There’s even a Champagne Style Somerset — a crisp dry sparkler that’s a nod to the legendary poor man’s Champagne. VANCOUVER ISLAND’S OTHER SUCCESSFUL CIDERY WAS ESTABLISHED overlooking the ocean but on the more
sheltered Saanich Peninsular, which is a few kilometres east of Cobble Hill. Kristen and Bruce Jordan established Sea Cider Farm and Ciderhouse in 2007, surrounded by natural gardens, organic orchards with some 60 varieties of apples, and grazing sheep, against a backdrop of pastoral and ocean views. Sea Cider offers a variety of styles to accommodate a broad range of tastes. The tasting room offers a flexibility of pours, served alongside well conceived artisan platters of local meats, specialty breads and cheeses, and homemade dips. The cidery’s arrival coincided with the rise in interest in food and wine pairing, so it made sense to offer a parallel tasting experience, to suit every taste.
Drier styles that seem to pair well include Kings & Spies, with crisp, savoury apple notes quite reminiscent of English cider, as well as the appealingly tart, certified organic, bitter-sweet wild yeast fermented Wild English, and dry, slightly spicy and quiet complexity of the German-inspired, organic Flagship. Also organic, Pippins sports a crisp, clean personality that pairs well with foods such as smoked salmon, while blackberry infused Bramble Bubbly is an off-dry, rosé-like sparkler that pairs with lightly spiced Asian dishes. With no shortage of creativity at play, Sea Cider’s ever-popular Rum Runner (aged in rum soaked oak barrels) might have you reaching for a Cuban cigar. Quite tawny-port-like, sweet Pommeau cries out for a good blue cheese such as Stilton or Bleu de Gex, while mead-like Cyser, made with fermented organic honey, yields a more complex, sweet and almost smoky toned drop. The craft cider revolution has taken a little longer to reach the interior of BC, but signs are everywhere that interest in cider is widespread. Following the arrival of free trade and the subsequent blossoming of the wine industry, Okanagan apple orchards started to disappear NARAMATA CIDER MAKER DEL HALLADAY at a rapid rate. However, in some areas, thanks to cider, they’re seeing a small resurgence. The Similkameen Valley boasts one of the highest rate of organic certified farms in the country, which likely accounts for the flourishing of its fruit orchards alongside the burgeoning vineyards. The Similkameen hasn’t experienced the widespread removal of apple orchards in the same way as the Okanagan. Take a turn off busy Highway 3A at Cawston to discover A challenge for craft cider makers in the Okanagan is the lack tiny, perfect Twisted Hills Craft Cider. Here, nestled right in of true cider apple varieties. Located in Vernon, on a third generthe heart of their orchard, cider maker Kaylan Madeira and ation orchard, BXPress makes a wide range of styles but only one, partner Jo Schneider are producing some excellent, true apple the crisp and dry Prospector, is made mainly from cider apple vaciders made from cider varieties. In fact, even though it’s still rieties. The name is inspired by the celebrated ‘BX’ or Barnard’s early days, the couple have already garnered some significant Express that once ferried freight and people north to the Cariboo awards in major competitions. Gold Fields with horses reared on the property. And the ProspecDry styled Pippin’s Fate, made with bitter sweet apples and tor is a fitting tribute to those early, rugged pioneers. sporting an appealing acidity, is a superb quencher on a hot day. One of the most successful sparkling apple ciders is made Kingston’s Twist (which is a blend of cider apples and dessert ta- by BC Tree Fruits, a co-operative of over 500 Okanagan growble varieties) appeals to those looking for a less dry cider, while ers, established almost 80 years ago and very much harking Tangled Rose (which blends organic cider apples with organic back to those early days. The name ‘Broken Ladder’ is a clevSanta Rosa plums) could easily pass for an off-dry rosé. The cou- er nod to the often precarious wooden ladders that were once ple also make a sparkling pear and apple cider. They grow their widely used by pickers. own organic fruit and do everything from pressing to labelling Broken Ladder (which, interestingly enough, is made by Olthemselves. Production is limited — and stocks don’t last long — iver winemaker Bertus Albertyn) adds up to a kick in the pants as their ciders are already much sought after in Vancouver and to big, commercial sweet cider producers. Made with six differelsewhere, far beyond Cawston. ent kinds of eating apples, it contains no sweeteners or other In the Okanagan, often as not, wine and cider still very much additives. Not surprisingly, apple is what you get on the nose, overlap. Naramata Cider Company, a recently established off- followed by a light, refreshing palate. It’s crisp and clean, if not shoot of Elephant Island, makes estate-grown cider from table very complex, which it doesn’t have to be. But it is an interestapples as a fitting complement to the winery’s excellent vinifera ing nod to those long-ago days when someone decided fallen grape and fruit wines. apples could be put to good use. × JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 41
LIGHTING A MATCH by Tod Stewart
THE SUBTERRANEAN WINE CELLAR OF TORONTO’S SPIGA RISTORANTE WAS SNUG AND CANDLELIT. The
wine was flowing, and the husband-and-wife team of Eyal Liebman and Rebecca Meïr-Liebman (professionally known as Chef & Somm) were doing what they do best: crafting a multi-course bespoke dinner and challenging (or confirming) the conventional wisdom of wine and food matching. Pinot Noir and beef tartare; a classic match, right? Not exactly. It was a 2013 Marsanne from Niagara’s Kew Vineyards that pushed all the right buttons for me. The cool, viscous, peach/mineral-tinged white wine wrapped itself sensually around the rich, peppery raw beef, offering both a textural complement and a flavour contrast. Demi Cornish Hen, Grilled Pineapple, Buttery Brussels Sprouts and Rose Jus aptly demonstrated that certain flavours could work admirably with both red and white wine, as this dish did with two Niagara takes on Burgundy: a rich and complex 2013 Wild Ferment Chardonnay from Southbrook Vineyards, and a 2010 Pinot Noir Réserve Du Domaine from Domaine Queylus that was showing beautifully with six years of age. Would you dare pair a Valrhona Dark Chocolate (Caraïbe) Poppy Seed Cake and Valrhona Cœur de Guanaja ice cream with a dry red wine? Turns out that adding a piece of crispy bacon to the mix helped the dessert get along nicely with a 2012 St David’s Bench Vineyard Cabernet Franc from Château des Charmes (proving, conclusively, that for every problem, bacon is the solution). These were just a few of the eye-opening matches Chef & Somm delivered over the span of the six-course dinner. In this case, all the matches that were designed to work, worked. But the practice of matching wine and food is still somewhat tricky for most of us. Mainly, as Meïr-Lieban pointed out, because of the available options, even within similar wine and food categories. Beyond the usual something crisp and white with oysters and a robust red with meat, the complexities of many of the dishes gracing restaurant menus — or being whipped up in your kitchen — these days leaves the choice of which wine to match with which food a game of chance. Will this red subtly nuanced with pepper and smoke actually complement this lamb tagine? Or will it render the whole effort so much compost? 42 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
Now, with the surge in popularity of artisanal, craft varieties, beer is today more frequently being paired with sophisticated dishes. No longer relegated to the realm of cold, bland suds used to wash down pizza during the Super Bowl, the rapidly expanding range of quality brews is being served throughout the meal, from aperitif to dessert. (Interestingly – and in a move well ahead of its time – Labatt, of all brewers, was pushing the synergy between beer and food well over 25 years ago.) If that’s old news for you, maybe this will grab your interest. Pairing spirits with food is slowly becoming a more popular practice. Yes, that’s right. You might be sipping an Old Fashioned, rather than a New World Cabernet, with your porterhouse. Blame (or praise) the food-spirit matching trend on the cocktail renaissance that’s occurred over the last few years. “Associating wine and beer with food is something very common because it is a cultural practice — we were educated that way,” maintains Alfred Cointreau, Heritage Manager for the Cointreau Distillery in France. He’s also the great grandson of Édouard-Jean Cointreau who, along with his brother, Adolphe, founded the distillery in 1849. Its eponymous triple sec (orange liqueur) is today the most imitated spirit in the world in both packaging and content. “Every culture has its own codes and rules regarding eating and drinking practices,” Cointreau explains. “In Europe and North America, our traditional way of associating food and beverage is through wine and beer. In other cultures, like Eastern Europe and Asia, the focus is more on spirits. I try to encourage Westerners to break with conventions and share new experiences with spirits and food.” CHEFS AND BARTENDERS SEEM TO BE ON THE CUTTING-EDGE OF THE CONVENTION-BREAKING GAME, AND ARE LEADING THE SPIRIT AND FOOD PAIRING MOVEMENT. Jacob Wharton-Shukster, the owner/chef/bar-
tender of Toronto’s recently revamped Chantecler bistro, contends that the concept of matching spirits with food stems from our “natural inclination to combine.” He cites the examples of a gin and tonic with snacks before dinner, and whiskies with a cheese course after, as things we might not specifically view as “pairings,” but that we do as part of the dining routine.
The process of pairing food with spirits is pretty straightforward. If you’re dubious thanks to the fact that you never quite got the hang of pairing food and wine, there’s no need to fret. Nicolas Villalon, Edrington Brand Ambassador (The Macallan, Highland Park, The Famous Grouse) is the expert to ask. Villalon has hosted a number of well-received dinners where food and spirit pairings are very specific, including an exotic Chinese New Year’s dinner at Susur Lee’s Luckee restaurant that saw various incantations of The Macallan single malt (neat or in cocktails) matched with a range of intricately-crafted Asian dishes. In Villalon’s view, the key to embracing the marriage of food and spirit is to open yourself to some expert guidance. “The pairing of spirits with food is not as instinctive as, let’s say, a wine pairing, so I recommend such a pairing be initiated by a professional. Then, as you become more educated, this sort of pairing will gradually become more natural and ‘mainstream’.”
Incorporating the spirit right into various dishes can certainly up the chances of the food and drink playing nicely together. Cointreau describes his grandmother’s summer family dinner – a “Cointreau dinner” through and through. “We start with a tomato salad with a Cointreau vinaigrette,” he reveals. “Then we move to a main course of monkfish with Cointreau sauce paired with a White Lady cocktail featuring Cointreau, gin and lemon. Dessert would be a Cointreau Soufflé with Cointreau on ice as a digestif.” Rather than complement, Villalon prefers what he calls an “anti-pairing” (what most of us would probably call a contrast). “This is when you are looking for flavours to play off of each other rather than create a synergy of flavours. For example, pairing a bitter flavour with a sweet spirit or cocktail ... or a sweet dish with a drink with smoky or woody nuances. One might suspect that cocktails might work better throughout a meal than “neat”
Alfred Cointreau is the great grandson of Édouard-Jean Cointreau who, along with his brother, Adolphe, founded the distillery in 1849.
When it comes to pairing wine and beer with dishes, you typically look for complementary flavours happening between the solids and the liquids. The same approach is often followed in food and spirit matches. “I think some generalizations can be made,” says Wharton-Shukster when asked about specific marriages of spirits to cuisine. “Seafood dishes and lighter flavours pair better with light spirits or light spirit cocktails; citrusy drinks and ceviche, for example. “Darker spirits like brandies and whiskies go great with more robust flavours, such as strong cheeses, game meats, and rich seafood or shellfish dishes.”
spirits. There is some consensus among the experts here. “It is indeed easier to pair cocktails rather than neat spirits,” Vilallon contends. “A well-made cocktail will be well balanced, and the sweet component won’t pose a problem.” “You have a lot of different categories of cocktail flavours,” Cointreau points out. “Bitter, dry, sour, fruity, acidic ... I am sure there are more cocktail variations than red and white wine combined!” The key to a blissful cocktail match, in his eyes, is the skill of the bartender combined with the best ingredients. Wharton-Shukster sees sugar as less of a problem. “Previously, I might have agreed that high sugar content in cocktails JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 43
could clash [with food]. This is less and less an issue. As chefs draw more influence from world cuisine, they are cooking with more sweet and sour components. The balance of flavours can work really well with well balanced cocktails.” Zak Doy, Casamigos Tequila Brand Ambassador and Lead Mixologist, feels that cocktails present an easier match. “You can add as many elements needed to elevate the base spirit and complement a food pairing. Cocktails don’t necessarily have to be sweet. I enjoy tart cocktails such as margaritas without a trace of added sugar. That’s the beauty of cocktails; they can be whatever the creator wants them to be, the best of them being those that show off the base spirit.” Not everyone is over the moon about this trend. Way back in 2007, I asked whisky guru Jim Murray (the author of the Great Crown Royal Northern Harvest Rye proclamation) his thoughts on trying to pair whisky with food. His response was characteristically subtle: “No.”
Toronto’s Yorkville nabe. A few tequila-laced meals in Mexico (where I ate crickets) courtesy of the Patrón people (the meals, not necessarily the crickets). More than a couple Robbie Burns dinners (the last featuring the trifecta of Auchentoshan Lowland Single Malt as well as Bowmore and Laphroiag Islay Single Malts and, if memory serves, some Glen Garioch Highland Single Malt snuck in there as well). The only issue I found with many of these events was that although the libations were terrific and the food top-notch, pairing the two together didn’t typically result in mind-blowing synergy. This, however, changed at the launch of Casamigos Añejo tequila at Toronto’s Valdez Restaurant. George Clooney’s Casamigos brand has been around for a while in the form of a Blanco and a Reposado tequila. Having aged a bit longer, the Añejo made its debut in what was probably the best spirit/food match I’ve experienced. Not surprisingly, Chef Steve Gonzalez is big on Casamigos, and big on the idea of spirits and cocktails with food. The matches he offered opened with Casamigos Blanco paired with grouper ceviche (with grilled pineapple, yucca, tomato, tajin, lemon and avocado) a Columbian-style beef empanada with the Casamigos Reposado and, finally, a banana flambé with the Casamigos Añejo. While each pairing worked beautifully, the Blanco/ceviche combo really did it for me (Doy went with the dessert match). Something in the way the gently herbal, mildly peppery and slightly viscous white spirit wrapped itself around the herb and citrus-infused, melt-in-your-mouth fish just screamed, More! Any doubt that a spirit could tango with a dish was swallowed with a second mouthful of this combo. I had to ask Casamigos Tequila Director of International Markets, Thor Richardson, why tequila in general — and Casamigos in specific — has such an affinity with certain dishes. “The notes in each expression — be it the floral vanilla notes in the Blanco, the salted caramel in the Reposado or the spicy oak of the Añejo — are so complementary to food flavours that they make for fantastic pairing with a wide range of dishes. Casamigos adds these flavours to the palate and heightens any dish — this is especially true in comparison with grain-based spirits, where the spirit winds up killing the flavour of the food, not complementing it.” (As an aside, I might suggest that tequila has a bit of an advantage in that can be at once a white spirit, amber spirit and brown spirit, thereby opening up more matching possibilities.) Spirit and food matches are definitely becoming more popular, and the best way for those new to the game is to heed Vilallon’s advice and let the experts guide you. If you’re in Toronto, check out Rush Lane & Co., and let Doy be your guide. Or visit Valdez. You can’t go wrong with a chef who signs off with, “Spirits and cocktails definitely have a place in a meal cooked by me!” ×
THE PROCESS OF PAIRING FOOD WITH SPIRITS IS PRETTY STRAIGHTFORWARD. IF YOU’RE DUBIOUS THANKS TO THE FACT THAT YOU NEVER QUITE GOT THE HANG OF PAIRING FOOD AND WINE, THERE’S NO NEED TO FRET. “I think more pretentious rubbish is written and spoken about this than any other factor concerning whisky … It’s a load of crap.” (Incidentally, if you want to read the full interview, it’s here: www.quench.me/drinks/jim-murray-whisky/). Of course, one person’s load of crap can be another man’s pot of gold. MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE WITH MATCHING SPIRITS AND FOOD HAS BEEN SOMETHING OF A MIXED BAG. I’ve
been lucky enough to have attended a number of spirited feasts — led by experts — with libations that included whisk(e)y, rum, tequila and a myriad of cocktails (not all at the same dinner, mind you, probably a good thing). These events were pretty well unanimously fabulous. PanAsian cuisine paired with cocktails featuring Mount Gay rum. The launching of the Thor and Freya expressions from Highland Park. The Bacardí Paladar Cuba-inspired blowout. Alberta Distillers Dark Horse dinner at Toronto’s (now closed) Turf lounge hosted by Canadian whisky expert Davin de Kergommeaux. A dinner centred around Boulard Calvados at a swanky boîte in
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SPICE INVADERS by Silvana Lau
“SPICE SPICE BABY” - ADAPTATION OF VANILLA ICE’S ICE ICE BABY Yo, VIP, let’s drink it! Spice spice baby, Spice spice baby, All right stop, Grab your drink and listen, Spice is back with the distiller’s brand new invention Vanilla grabs a hold of me tightly …
Unlike the ‘80s rapper Vanilla Ice, spiced and flavoured spirits are making a comeback. In recent years, alcohol infused with flavouring and spices has gotten a bad rap. Snooty seasoned drinkers and purists alike find it tragic, calling it the bastardization of pure spirits. Mention spiced rum to most people and thoughts turn to college frat parties with a spiked Coke in one hand and a pirate hook in the other. Meanwhile, flavoured vodkas, the anything-goes wildchild spirit, evokes an endless stream of childhood food memories: cupcake, bubble gum, cotton candy, the list goes on … In general, spiced and flavoured spirits have always played second fiddle to sugared-up drink concoctions designed to mask the awful taste and burn of low-quality base spirits. Historically speaking, poor conditions in distillation created harsh and unpleasant-tasting
spirits. “Sailors had a daily ration of rum on board the ships. Much of this rum was unaged and not much ‘fun’ to drink after a hard, laborious day. Sailors started opening the cask and flavouring the rum with cloves, star anise, ginger, cinnamon, vanilla and cardamom to give it extra flavour and sweetness,” explains Mario D’Amico from Domaine Pinnacle Micro-Distillery. Fast forward to the 21st century; distillers are using a different approach. “Unlike the traditional method of using spices to cover up the inferior spirits, the spices are lighter in flavour, which allows the essence of the original spirit to shine through,” explains Bill Ashburn, Master Blender of Ontario’s Forty Creek Distillery. Given the dramatic improvement in quality among some brands, adding spices to a spirit is more of an art than a necessity. Similar to a mad scientist, each distiller
has his or her own idiosyncratic approach to master the art of balance. “We spend a lot of time getting the ratio of the spices right so that they enhance the spirit, not hide it. One must put together blends, allow them to marry and allow the true flavours to come out. This process takes at least six months of waiting,” says Ashburn. He continues, “distillers are going to continue to experiment and at the same time fine tune their processes.” Besides the obvious reason of improving the taste, humans have been infusing spices and spirits together for centuries. Many believed it was an “easier” delivery method for homespun remedies to tackle ailments (I’ll take a shot of anything over a hard-to-swallow horse pill any day), while others believed that certain spiced spirits could increase your libido (isn’t that what tequila is for?) Whatever the reasons, these spirits have been enjoyed all over. JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 45
ANCHO REYES ANCHO CHILE LIQUEUR, MEXICO ($40) Hey! Hot stuff! I’d never tried an Ancho chile liqueur before, but I think I’m hooked on this spicy Mexican! From a recipe developed in the 1920s, this is a really unique shot across the palate. Cayenne pepper, sweet mace, cocoa powder and vanilla muddled together for a pretty complex aroma. Whoowhee! The heat’s for sure there in the mouth (though the 40% alcohol is deceptively masked), but it’s tempered by a balanced sweetness and some smoked paprika endnotes. Traditionally served neat (though over ice you get that wild hot/cold thing happening), it would probably add a lashing of surprising spice to tamer cocktails.
CHIC CHOC SPICED RUM, CANADA ($33.75) Finally! A spiced rum that doesn’t taste like I am sucking on a cinnamon heart or a vanilla pod. Definitely, not your run-of-themill spiced rum; that’s because the usual spices cinnamon and vanilla (yawn!) aren’t added to the blend. Instead, Nordic spices (indigenous plants from the Gaspé Penisula) are infused with a blend of aged rum from the Caribbean. The Nordic spices attribute to a slight medicinal taste, reminiscent of Alpenbitter and Jägermeister without the bitterness. A fresh take on rum that features a spicy bouquet of woody herbs with nuances of sugarcane and ginger, complemented by subtle white pepper undertones. One sip of this Caribbean and Canadian love child, and you will feel like you are hiking in the great Canadian outdoors with the heat of the island sun on your face!
FORTY CREEK SPIKE HONEY SPICED, CANADA ($28.95) Blended with the award-winning Forty Creek Barrel Select Whisky, sweet honey aromas greet you at first with hints of vanilla and cloves in the background. Once you sip the syrup-like elixir, a mélange of baking spices will envelop your tongue, with a persistent butterscotch finish. Nothing complicated, but an easy drinking spiced whisky that will satisfy that sweet tooth that always seems to show up after a meal. Serve neat if you are craving something rich and decadent; With a drop of water or on the rocks if you want to reveal more flavours of the rye.
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In the land of the Vikings, between the Arctic Ocean and the icy Baltic Sea, Scandinavians throw back shots of Aquavit (or Akvavit, depending on in which country you’re drinking it) while toasting each other and shouting Skoal. Dating back to the 1500s, the traditional Scandinavian liquor or “water of life” forged bonds from Helsinki to Copenhagen. Much like vodka, a neutral spirit derived from either grain or potato is spiced dominantly with caraway (dill, anise, fennel, coriander and cardamom is often added to the mix). Originally considered a cure for indigestion, caraway provides a savoury character to the Aquavit that pairs well with traditional Nordic fare like smoked fish and pickled herring. Although Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland all have their own version, a shot of Aquavit is a Scandinavian staple during those chilly arctic winters. In the Caribbean, islanders would make their own recipes of spiced rums at home with whatever local ingredients were available and sell them in local grog or rum shops. Laced with classic spices and flavourings such as vanilla, nutmeg, cloves and allspice, the local island hooch was not only aromatic but potent as well. A handful of spiced rums made it across the Atlantic to North America, this, of course, included the ubiquitous Captain Morgan’s Original Spiced Rum.
Introduced to the North American market in the ‘80s, Captain Morgan’s vanilla-forward rum has been associated with quaffing more for quantity than for quality. “Captain and Coke” still remains a popular drink among young men, earning the good ol’ Captain a notorious reputation for frat party booze. MOREOVER, MANY DRINK SNOBS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD (WELL, EXCEPT FOR THE CARIBBEAN) HAVE AN AVERSION TO SPICED RUM. These discerning drinkers dismiss
it as a sub-par — too sweet and not grownup enough. Unlike good-quality aged and sipping rums, spiced rums are more like mass-produced beers. Many commercial bottlings are infused with a combination of artificial and natural ingredients often including sugar, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and clove (did you ask for a cocktail or a muffin?) One can see why traditional spiced rum carries the “boozy training wheel” reputation. Nonetheless, not all spiced rums should be associated with swashbuckling-themed frat parties or colourful frozen drinks festooned with paper umbrellas. Small family-owned micro-distillery Domaine Pinnacle has created a uniquely spiced, blended rum using agricultural rum from Jamaica, Trinidad and Barbados. Named after Quebec’s own Chic Choc Mountains, Chic Choc Spiced Rum is the first ever to originate from Quebec; it is not your conventional plain vanilla “metoo” rum. In fact, there are no references to pirates, sailors or anything nautical on the label of the bottle. What you will see on the bottle is the town rebel standing on top of a ferocious bear. Legend has it that the love affair between the town rebel and the mayor’s daughter was exposed, and as a result, he was punished to scale the tumultuous Chic Chic Mountains to retrieve rare spices guarded by a vicious beast. With a rum bottle in hand, the rebel returned weeks later, unscathed, with spices steeping in his bottle. “We don’t use any cinnamon or vanilla in our spice mix. We wanted to think outside-of-the-box. An herbalist was hired and he gathered 200 indigenous plants from the boreal forest in the Gaspé Peninsula. We use a blend of Caribbean rums
aged between three to eight years and macerated it with a mixture of six Nordic spices found in this untouched location of the country, which includes peppery green alder, pine forest spikenard, whiterod berries, lovage root, sweet gale seeds and wild angelica,” explains D’Amico. After months of experimentation, a sophisticated spiced rum was born. Frat boys take note: Chic Choc can be enjoyed in cocktails, neat or on the rocks. Despite the particular spices sounding more like ingredients in a detoxifying spiced tea, Chic Choc is redefining the industry standard. “There is a decline of major mass-produced spirits as consumers become more interested in local, artisan and handcrafted spirits. People are demanding cocktails made from quality spirits and local, seasonal ingredients. In fact, we have a twist on the classic Cuba Libre. We mix Chic Choc with a locally produced cola called 1642 made exclusively with Quebec ingredients, like maple syrup. We call it the Gaspé Libre,” D’Amico says with pride. Chic Choc is trying to create a niche in the market, rather than trying to overtake the Captain or Mr Bacardi — they want to elevate the category. It’s the quintessential hipster spiced rum that replaces the eye patch wearing pirate image so often associated with rum with the plaid-wearing lumber-sexual. “It has a unique flavour and people must be open minded, adventurers and thrill-seekers to enjoy it. Our spiced rum is closer to an Amaro than the traditional not-so-subtle cinnamon and vanilla spiced rum,” says D’Amico. Thanks to Chic Choc’s blend of unorthodox spices, the negative stigma so often associated with these rums has
shifted. These days, innovative bartenders and mixologists are experimenting with spiced rum as they make their way into more than just shooters and cola (that is, unless it’s locally produced cola). Love it or hate it, there’s no fighting it — no stopping it. In every corner of the globe, you will find distillers tinkering with spices and infusing them into not just vodka and rum, but liqueurs (Jägermeister spiced, Ancho Reyes Ancho Chile Liqueur), tequila (Peligroso Cinnamon Flavoured) and even whisky (much to the chagrin of “true” whisky aficionados). Everyone wants a piece of the (spiced) pie. From American to Canadian, bourbon to rye, whisky distilleries have followed suit and jumped onto the spiced spirits bandwagon following the success of Fireball Cinnamon Whisky. Synonymous for “fun” among young hedonists, the syrupy incarnation of a spicy cinnamon jawbreaker (remember those?) has caught on like wildfire. In 2014, a Chicago-based research firm identified Fireball as one of the top 10 selling spirit brands by volume. Not surprisingly, it has become a threat to more established brands. Red hot Fireball has gone from an unknown to the hottest bar-shot trend in the US almost overnight, dethroning Jägermeister off its post as party-goers’ shot of choice. Jägerbombs today! Fireball shots tomorrow! Trends are fickle. The popularity of spiced spirits isn’t slowing down anytime soon. As new brands feature the blend of natural spices infused with premium spirits, bartenders and consumers are giving spiced spirits a fresh new look, because everything in life deserves a second chance (you may want to hang on to that Vanilla Ice CD). × JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 47
BOUQUET GARNI BY NANCY JOHNSON
LA DOLCE VITA I’m feeling a little bit lazy this month. Not lazy as in “I haven’t been vacuuming the house”, not like that at all — although, in fact, I haven’t been vacuuming lately. The thing is, I decided to give up sugar for a while and I feel like I’m running on an empty tank that once held nothing but sugar. Kicking sugar is a little like kicking any addiction. First, you’re cranky and you yell at your loved ones a lot. Then, you spend a lot of time reviewing your life choices and wondering where you went wrong: Sweetened yogurt and orange juice for breakfast; a honey ham sandwich for lunch; a sturdy heap of meat and glazed sweet potatoes hiding a stalk of broccoli for dinner; and a protein bar as a midnight snack. Now, aren’t I the healthy one? I’ve come to the startling realization that I have not been sugar-free since birth. I mean, I’m pretty sure my first baby bottle was filled with chocolate milk. Now that I’ve started looking at the labels on packaged foods, I’m aghast to see the s-word everywhere. It’s kind of scary — why didn’t I notice this before? Now, this isn’t to say I’m aiming to be completely sugar-free, all the time, every day. After all, a glass of wine and a bit of dark chocolate is good for the soul. Life completely without sugar is — well — not as sweet. A lot of the recipes I make tend to include sugar – glazed meats, sweet salad dressings, and the list goes on. It took me a while to come up with these little stars, all with no added sugar.
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CAPRESE STACKS
Now is the time to start picking the garden tomatoes and enjoy their old-fashioned goodness. No precise measurements in this recipe. Just stack until you run out of ingredients. I’ve seasoned this with Hawaiian black salt, which makes a unique presentation. Look for fresh mozzarella di bufala, for a more traditional take on this recipe.
Beefsteak tomatoes Fresh mozzarella cheese Pitted Kalamata olives Fresh basil leaves, chopped Balsamic vinegar Extra-virgin olive oil Sea or Hawaiian black salt Freshly ground pepper Cut tomatoes and mozzarella into thin slices. Cut olives into rings. Layer a tomato slice, mozzarella slice, olives and basil. Top with a tomato and mozzarella slice. Broil stacks a few minutes until cheese melts. Drizzle with vinegar and oil. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
× Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on quench.me/recipes/
Spin the pan around once before flipping them over. This will ensure a more even char.
SALMON WITH ROMESCO SAUCE
SERVES 4 To make the sauce thicker, add a bit of torn toasted or stale country bread to the food processor. You may also want to add a roasted mildly-hot pepper to the sauce.
4 salmon fillets 2 tbsp fresh lime juice Salt and pepper, to taste 1/2 cup cherry tomatoes 1 sweet red pepper, quartered 3 tbsp olive oil 1 clove garlic 1 tbsp raw almonds, chopped 2 tsp or more sherry vinegar, to taste 1. Place salmon in a shallow bowl. Drizzle with lime juice, salt and pepper.
2. Heat broiler. On a large baking sheet,
toss the tomatoes and red pepper with 1 tbsp oil, salt and pepper. Broil, turning once, until the vegetables are tender and slightly charred, about 7 minutes. 3. Transfer the pepper and tomatoes to a food processor. Add garlic, almonds, vinegar and remaining olive oil. Process until smooth. 4. Meanwhile, place the salmon on a broiler-proof pan lined with foil. Broil until done, about 7 to 10 minutes, depending on salmon’s thickness. Serve salmon topped with romesco sauce. MATCH: Pair with a Cava or if you’d prefer red, a Rioja or Pinot Noir.
GRILLED ROSEMARY LAMB CHOPS
SERVES 4 I often forget to reach for lamb chops at the supermarket. I wasn’t raised on lamb and therefore don’t consider it a staple at the dinner table. But whenever I make it, I realize how much I love it. That said, I love the sugary mint jelly that goes with it. So, to divert my attention from the jelly, I made the chops with my favourite herb — rosemary. You can also make this dish with fresh-squeezed orange juice instead of the lemon juice.
1/4 1 1/2 1/3 8 8
cup fresh lemon juice clove garlic, minced tsp lemon pepper Salt, to taste cup extra virgin olive oil fresh rosemary sprigs lamb chops
1. In a small bowl, whisk lemon juice, garlic, lemon pepper and salt. Whisk in olive oil. Lay the rosemary sprigs in a shallow dish and place the lamb on top. Pour marinade over lamb and marinate in the refrigerator 2 hours, turning once. 2. Remove lamb from marinade. Grill on preheated barbecue for 10 to 15 minutes, turning once. MATCH: Uncork a Côtes-du-Rhône or Crozes-Hermitage.
BAKED COD WITH HERB MARINADE
SERVES 4 A little bit of Moroccan flavour here; delicious served with couscous. Change the herbs to suit your fancy.
1 small onion, grated 1/4 cup fresh flat leaf parsley, chopped 1/4 cup fresh cilantro, chopped 1/4 cup fresh mint, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tsp ground cumin 1/8 tsp cayenne pepper 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil 4 cod fillets Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste 1. In a small bowl, whisk together the onion, parsley, cilantro, mint, garlic, cumin, cayenne, lemon juice and olive oil. Place fish in baking dish. Pour marinade over fish, season with salt and pepper, and marinate in refrigerator 2 hours. 2. Preheat oven to 450˚F. 3. Place baking dish in oven and roast until fish is opaque throughout, about 10 to 15 minutes. Serve with couscous and sautéed zucchini. MATCH: Nice with a South African Chenin Blanc. × JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 49
NOTED 90 WOLF BLASS GOLD LABEL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, COONAWARRA, AUSTRALIA ($23.95)
A powerful Coonawarra Cab with a bouquet of chocolate, cassis, raspberry, cherry, mint, violets and herbs. Medium body with some gritty tannins and great length. Drink until 2021. (ES)
FORTY CREEK COPPER POT RESERVE WHISKY, ONTARIO ($29.95)
A blend of rye, barley and corn whiskies fermented, distilled and aged differently (as is the Canadian way), Forty Creek Copper Pot is a pretty dram without a trace of daintiness. Butterscotch and vanilla on the nose with a pronounced golden fruit presence like apricot and sultanas. Initially sweet, almost like roasted marshmallows; it doesn’t take long for spice to swoop in and present a peppery, grain-packed finish. (SP)
93 RAVINE VINEYARD RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2013, NIAGARA ($40)
The fruit for this superb Chardonnay was picked purely to preserve the acidity. So, an early pick with oak aging in 30% new French barrels for 18 months. Such a beauty with a nose of rich and pure pear, Meyer lemon, toasted almond, vanilla and a range of exciting barrel spices. It is pure elegance on the palate with saturated fruit and well-integrated spice already. There is persistence from the pear/apple fruit but it’s meticulously balanced out by the laser-sharp acidity. (RV)
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95 BURGESS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010, NAPA, UNITED STATES ($36) Clear, very deep plum-red. Rich nose of cassis, raisins and sweet vanilla. Unmistakeably Californian, packed with plum and blackberry flavours and everything in balance except perhaps for the high (14.6%) alcohol. Cries out for a juicy grilled burger or a rib steak. Will improve for a couple more years. (RL)*
90 CLOS DES FOUS CAUQUENINA 2013, ITATA COSTA, CHILE ($36)
Bright and layered aromas. Flavours of plum, blackberry, liquorice, tar, earth, savoury herbs and mineral, a tight core and long fresh finish. A field blend of Pais, Carménère, Carignan, Malbec and Syrah. (GB)
91 FIELDING ESTATE WINERY SYRAH 2012, NIAGARA ($39.95)
A warm, ripe and complex Syrah with cassis, plum, black pepper, oregano, violets, chocolate and toast. Medium-plus body, ripe tannins, concentrated mid-palate and superb length will allow this wine to age over the next 5 years. (ES)
91 THORNHAVEN GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2014, OKANAGAN ($18)
Forward floral and tropical hints before a balanced off-dry palate with definite orange notes, lychee and a touch of ginger spice. Pair with lightly spiced Asian fare. (TP)
90 STONEBOAT STONE’D RED 2013, OKANAGAN ($20)
A well-balanced blend of 58% Pinotage and 42% Pinot Noir combines the brighter cherry notes of the Pinot underpinned by the earthiness of Pinotage in a plush medium-bodied palate; juicy with well-managed oak and a solid close. (TP)
92 AVERILL CREEK PINOT NOIR 2012, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($30)
Confirms Andy Johnston’s years of insisting that the Island is the place for Pinot may well be coming true. Forward notes of dark berries and leather hints followed by a layered palate with black cherry and tobacco; complex savoury notes wrapped in silky tannins through the close. (TP)
× Find a collection of tasting notes for wine, beer and spirits at quench.me/notes/
Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Our scores are based on the wine's quality as well as price point. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Carefully study the commentaries to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Sarah Parniak, Treve Ring, Tim Pawsey, Silvana Lau and Jonathan Smithe. QUENCH USES THE 100-POINT SCALE 95-100 = Exceptional 90-94 = Excellent 85-89 = Very good
SPARKLING 92 BLOMIDON ESTATE WINERY EXTRA BRUT LATE PICK METHODE TRADITIONELLE CHARDONNAY 2011, NOVA SCOTIA ($45) Opens with a refined bouquet expressing ripe lemon citrus, vanilla and creamy brioche notes. Somewhat leaner on the palate than the nose suggests, it shows fine mousse, crisp green apple with secondary grapefruit citrus, a touch of saltiness, lively acidity and signature Nova Scotia mineral grip. Has the fruit and overall structure to develop further over 5 to 7 years or more. (SW)
91 BLOMIDON ESTATE WINERY CUVÉE L’ACADIE BRUT METHODE TRADITIONELLE 2011, NOVA SCOTIA ($30)
Shows persistent fine bead in the glass with soft floral, citrus, apple and leesy, lightly honeyed aromas. Tightly focused crisp green apple takes over on the palate with very crisp acidity, stony mineral and light creaminess softening the slightly austere character. Another extraordinarily good Traditional Method fizz showcasing Nova Scotia’s signature white grape. (SW)
91 ROSEHALL RUN CEREMONY BLANC DE BLANC BRUT NV, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($35) This 100% estate Chardonnay has a
80-84 = Good 75-79 = Acceptable 70 & under = Below average *Available through wine clubs
lovely biscuit note on the nose to go with lemon chiffon, fresh citrus, brioche and toasted vanilla. The tiny, vigorous bubbles are persistent in the glass and the sparkler shows bright acidity that gives a lift to the fresh lemon-citrus and green apple flavours. (RV)
91 DOMAINE DE GRAND PRÉ VINTAGE BRUT TRADITIONAL METHOD SPARKLING WINE 2009, NOVA SCOTIA ($49.50)
Made from estate-grown l’Acadie and Seyval Blanc grapes, this elegant sparkler shows fine bead, lemon citrus, vanilla, subtle leesy notes and a whiff of mineral on the nose. Generous citrus and green apple flavours have gained some richness and weight from bottle age. Lightly creamy texture is tempered by lively acidity and chalky mineral. (SW)
91 PHILIPPONNAT CHAMPAGNE ROYALE RÉSERVE BRUT NV, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($63)
Based on the 2011 vintage with 30% reserve wine, this 65/30/5 Pinot Noir/ Chardonnay/Pinot Meunier blend is sourced mostly from Premier and Grand Cru vineyards. Elegant and refined with light biscuit, lemon pith and cracked-stone savouriness. The focused palate carries green apple, an undercurrent of subtle red fruits, yellow plum, gentle dried apricot and fine salt through to a lengthy, lingering, honeyed finish. Refined, stately and elegant — befitting its “royale” name. Drink now or hold for 5+ years. (TR)
91 FERRARI BRUT PERLÉ NERO TRENTO METODO CLASSICO 2008, TRENTINO, ITALY ($66)
Elegant and complex with a rich touch of yeastiness, refined, gentle bubbles, creamy texture, black cherry, citrus, ginger spice and a hint of bitter almond on the long, lingering, lifted finish. A great alternative to Champagne. (GB)
91 COSSY SOPHISTIQUÉE 2007, CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($67.75)
Pale golden. Fresh nose of toasted bread, fresh mushroom, citrus, chalk and a touch of rancio. Very refreshing and energetic; with its sharp acidity, it seems more evolved than the 2005 tasted just before. Distinctive. (GBQc)
90 UNSWORTH CHARME DE L’ISLE 2014, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($23) One of a growing number of Vancouver Island wineries who’ve adopted this proprietary name, this Prosecco-styled Charmat sparkler sports a good mousse with bright orchard notes, green apple, zest and a flinty touch. (TP)
90 HAYWIRE PINK BUB 2014, OKANAGAN ($30)
Made with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and a tiny drop of Syrah as the dosage. The colour is pale salmon with a tight, steady stream of bubbles and a nose of strawberries, raspberries, bramble and a subtle herbaceous note. On the palate, there is an earthy note to go with a basket of vigorous red fruits that’s more fresh and lively than austere. (RV) JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 51
NOTED 90 BENJAMIN BRIDGE METHODE CLASSIQUE BRUT CHARDONNAY 2011, NOVA SCOTIA ($50)
Shows fine, persistent mousse in the glass with delicate floral, green apple, lemon citrus, a touch of lime and subdued creamy brioche. Fresh citrus and green apple flavours are backed by zesty acidity and characteristic Nova Scotia firm mineral grip. Rather austere at the moment, but has the structure to age like a vintage Champagne. Its best years are likely ahead. (SW)
89 DE CHANCENY BRUT ROSÉ NV, CRÉMANT DE LOIRE AOP, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE ($25)
This pale pink fizz from the Loire is traditional method Cabernet Franc from 20- to 30-year-old vines. Crisp and dry, the grape’s herbal bramble peeks through, though tight, racy acidity, subtle pink florals, pink grapefruit and a thin cushion of Bing cherry fruit carry this bright, nimble brut. A nice riff of salted herbs closes off the tight finish. Pass the tuna belly or salmon sashimi. (TR)
89 FIELDING ESTATE SPARKLING ROSÉ NV, NIAGARA ($30)
A blend of 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay. Strawberry, cherry, earth, yeast and toast are all present on a creamy texture. Combined with great length and fresh acid, it makes for a splendid pairing with duck rillettes or charcuterie. (ES)
89 SANTO WINES SPARKLING BRUT 2013, SANTORINI, GREECE ($33)
The only sparkling produced on the island of Santorini. 100% Assyrtiko and vinified via the traditional method, there are pinpoint creamy bubbles and aromas of mineral, apple, citrus and yeast. The palate possesses crisp acidity and excellent length. (ES)
88 GASPEREAU VINEYARDS ROSÉ 2015, NOVA SCOTIA ($15.99)
Strawberry, red cherry and cranberry on the nose with forward red cherry and cranberry flavours backed by lively acidity, firm mineral and a delicate hint of residual sweetness on the otherwise quite dry finish. A food-friendly style to pair with salmon, chicken and lightly spiced oriental dishes. (SW) 52 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
88 MONETTO PRESTIGE PROSECCO TREVISO DOC BRUT, ITALY ($20) Pronounced aromatic floral and honeyed scents lead into characteristic Prosecco bright apple flavour with light effervescence, brisk acidity and the merest trace of sweetness on the finish. (SW)
88 BERNARD MASSARD CUVÉE DE L’ÉCUSSON BRUT, LUXEMBOURG ($20.60)
Very pale colour with fine bubbles. Simple but clean nose, mostly fruity with a hint of limestone. Dry, it has a nice roundness on the palate and a pleasant fruity taste. The short finish is lifted by a small peak in acidity. (GBQc)
87 BOTTEGA GOLD PROSECCO SPUMANTE BRUT NV, TREVISO, VENETO, ITALY ($30)
Very concentrated nose with yellow apple, ripe pear and light toast throughout the creamy, gently frothy palate, and a perfumed floral note that floats the finish. Presents on the upper sweetness level for Brut. Unlike most Charmat-produced Prosecco, Bottega Gold is made from Glera grapes, but unlike standard Prosecco, it is produced to order via a single fermentation in the winery’s specialized pressurized cuve close tanks for 40 days. (TR)
86 CINZANO PROSECCO DOC NV, VENETO, ITALY ($16)
This medium-dry, light-bodied sparkler has rather delicate floral and fruity scents. A well-balanced palate with a lively fizz. Lingers with a bit of bitter and sweet. A go-to Prosecco for a refreshing Aperol spritz. (HH)
WHITE AUSTRALIA 89 WOLF BLASS GOLD LABEL CHARDONNAY 2014, ADELAIDE HILLS ($24.90)
Lots of polish to this Chardonnay, which clocks in at 12.5% alcohol. Smoke, hazelnut, peach, sweet apple, pear and anise
are all found in the glass. Mid-weight; the palate is restrained, with vibrant acidity, a slight creaminess as well as mineral-driven aftertaste. Seared scallops or cracked crab would be perfect with this wine. (ES)
87 HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT VERMENTINO 2014, MCLAREN VALE ($18)
Australian take on an Italian grape, could be mistaken for Sauvignon Blanc. Clear pale yellow, with a medium-strength nose of lime, nettle, gooseberry and a hint of smoke. Light-bodied with lemon and lime flavours. Crisp acidity makes it a good match with herbed fish. Drink up. (RL)*
CANADA 93 JOIEFARM VIOGNIER 2014, NARAMATA BENCH ($28)
Honeysuckle and stone fruit on top, followed by a luscious peach and apricot palate with seductive viscosity and a touch of citrus and mineral. Quite possibly Viognier like you’ve never tasted before. (TP)
93 JOIEFARM EN FAMILLE RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2013, OKANAGAN ($30)
Frequent battonage and extended lees contact has added richness and complexity. Shows pronounced viscosity in the glass with powerful, yet subtle ripe lemon citrus, delicate floral notes and leesy, buttery overtones. Rich buttery citrus flavours combine with green apple notes and deft acidity provides harmony and balance. Buttery and toasty flavours persist through the long finish. Inspired by Burgundy, this is a more than worthy homage. (SW)
93 TRIUS SHOWCASE WILD FERMENT CLEAN SLATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013, ONTARIO ($32.20)
One of the best Sauvignons I’ve tasted in Canada. Straw colour with a green tint; a nose of grapefruit, passionfruit, and green plum with a toasty note. Rich and full-bodied (13.9% alcohol), white Bordeaux in style, very elegant and gently oaked. Don’t miss it. (TA)
92 TINHORN CREEK CHARDONNAY GOLDEN MILE BENCH 2015, OKANAGAN ($25)
The naturally fermented inaugural release from the new sub-appellation yields slightly creamy notes on the nose, with orchard fruits followed by a gently buttery palate of well-managed oak. Produces buttery notes in the background with a definite stony and mineral undertone. (TP)
92 EMANDARE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($28)
Made with grapes from the oldest planting of the variety on Vancouver Island; shows some herbal aromas before a lush and quite viscous palate. Pink grapefruit and kiwi notes against a stony background and a lingering, fresh finish. (TP)
92 JOIEFARM EN FAMILLE GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2013, OKANAGAN ($28)
Seductive rose-petal and tropical notes precede a lush and viscous palate with orange, lychee and quince notes wrapped in refreshing acidity before a lingering, gently spicy finish. (TP)
92 JOIEFARM EN FAMILLE RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2013, OKANAGAN ($30)
This has a gorgeous nose of apple, pear, roasted cashew, subtle vanilla, pineapple and a note of saline minerality. Such lovely texture on the palate with lightly toasted spice, creamy pear, crisp apple and tingling citrus acidity. (RV)
91 QUAILS’ GATE DRY RIESLING 2014, OKANAGAN ($15.99)
Showing some development with some petrol and citrus notes, before a crisp, clean apple and pear palate with mineral notes. (TP)
91 AVERILL CREEK GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2014, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($18) Rose petal and floral hints on the nose precede a broad, fresh palate of orchard fruit with ginger and citrus hints before a dry close. (TP)
91 HAYWIRE WATERS & BANKS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, OKANAGAN ($24)
Floral and sage aromas followed by a
luscious but still structured palate with lingering stony notes and a touch of fresh dill on the finish. (TP)
91 JOIE FARM VIOGNIER 2014, OKANAGAN ($28)
This powerful wine presents intensely fragrant scents of yellow flowers, ripe melon and stone fruit. Apricot flavours lead off on the palate with opulent honeyed and buttery character deftly balanced by refreshing acidity. Stone fruit, buttery richness and stony mineral linger on the finish. (SW)
91 RAVINE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, NIAGARA ($35)
The nose shows a certain elegance with light spice, grapefruit, kiwi fruit, pear, white flowers and toasty vanilla. It’s bright and juicy on the palate with lovely texture to go with citrus, kiwi, herbs, toasted almonds and integrated spice notes. (RV)
91 TANTALUS RIESLING 2014, OKANAGAN ($37)
Vibrantly fresh aromas of mineral, crunchy apple and grapefruit; refined but intense with penetrating flavours, a touch of spice, slightly off-dry and bracing acidity to keep everything in balance. (GB)
90 BARTIER BROTHERS OBRIGADO 2014, OKANAGAN ($17.29)
Stone and chalky notes on the nose before a citrus and grapefruit palate with good structure and emphatic acidity that supports a surprisingly textured, quite full body with lingering minerality. Wild yeast and very early picked, for a delightfully idiosyncratic wine. (TP)
90 BEAUMONT PINOT BLANC 2014, KELOWNA, BC ($18)
Certified organic. Up-front apple and orchard fruit followed by a zesty, well-textured palate with broad mouthfeel and elegance supported by good acidity. (TP)
90 AVONDALE SKY TENNYCAPE 2014, NOVA SCOTIA ($19)
Aromatic ripe grapefruit, tropical fruit and intriguing spice notes give way to bright flavours of stone fruit with hints of pear and citrus in the mouth. Supported by characteristic brisk acidity and minerality, this very distinctive wine finishes dry and crisply clean. (SW)
90 ROCKWAY VINEYARDS SMALL LOT BLOCK 15-183 RIESLING 2014, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($19.95)
Up-front apple and pear notes, followed by zesty and green apple with a lively edge underpinned by still youthful, refreshing acidity. (TP)
Rockway continues to shine under winemaker David Stasiuk. Taut and racy, this wine serves up peach, lime, pink grapefruit, mineral and white flowers. There is some residual sugar, but the brisk acidity gives the impression of a dry wine. Excellent length and a match made in heaven with sushi. (ES)
90 HESTER CREEK PINOT BLANC 2014, NARAMATA BENCH, BC ($15)
90 STONEBOAT STONE’D WHITE 2014, OKANAGAN ($20)
90 STAG’S HOLLOW TRAGICALLY VIDAL 2015, OKANAGAN ($17)
90 ROCKWAY VINEYARDS CHARDONNAY WILD FERMENT 2014, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($22.95)
90 AVERILL CREEK PINOT GRIGIO 2015, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($15)
Fruit from some of the Okanagan’s oldest vinifera plantings show up in this faithful expression of the variety, with lifted apple and pear notes, followed by a juicy mouthfeel of stonefruit and slightly creamy flavours. (TP)
So named because the winery owners inherited a good deal of the variety not well known in BC but grown for Icewine. Instead they opted for a table wine. Vibrant aromas of pear and zest notes followed by a luscious, juicy pear and tropical plate with good mouthfeel and just enough acidity to keep it structured. (TP)
Fruit-driven sipper with equal parts Pinot Blanc, Müller Thurgau, Schöenberger and Kerner; a little Pinot Gris and Viognier show tropical aromas before a citrus-toned palate with juicy acidity and a touch of sweetness. (TP)
A medium-body Chardonnay that shows great poise. Peach, green apple, pear, citrus, honey and vanilla are built on a creamy texture and excellent length. Without a doubt, this is a wine that requires lobster or Alaskan king crab with drawn butter. (ES) JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 53
NOTED 89 CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES BARREL FERMENTED CHARDONNAY 2014, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($14)
One of the best-value Chardonnays from Ontario. Straw-coloured with a nose of apple butter and toasty oak, it’s medium-bodied and dry with a fresh apple flavour and well-integrated oak. Beautifully balanced. It’s the kind of wine you can serve with chicken, fish or a Caesar salad. (TA)
89 STREWN GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2014, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($14)
Gewürztraminer in Ontario is a hit-andmiss kind of thing but occasionally someone hits the bull’s-eye. In this case it was Strewn winery with their 2014 Gewürz. Pale straw in colour, it has that characteristic lychee and rose-petal nose and Turkish delight flavour, finishing elegantly dry on a pear-like note. (TA)
89 REDSTONE BRICKYARD RIESLING 2014, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($16) Fans of Ontario wine will remember the old Thomas & Vaughan Winery in Beamsville. In 2009, it was bought by Moray Tawse and renamed Redstone, and it’s producing some delicious wines at consumer-friendly prices. Almost water-white in colour, this Riesling offers a nose of petrol, grapefruit and honey. Light-bodied and off-dry, it has a sweet grapefruit flavour with lively acidity. (TA)
89 DOMAINE DE GRAND PRÉ L’ACADIE BLANC 2015, NOVA SCOTIA ($16)
Strikingly aromatic floral, citrus, menthol and green apple on the nose evolve to apple, pear and stone-fruit flavours in the mouth. Brisk acidity and drying mineral grip are softened by fresh fruit notes that linger on the finish. (SW)
89 HENRY OF PELHAM FAMILY TREE WHITE 2012, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($17.95)
This is a food-friendly blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc. Medium straw in colour, it offers a spicy, honeysuckle and peach nose; it’s dry, aromatic, medium-bodied, and spicy, with lychee, grapefruit flavours and a firm finish. (TA) 54 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
89 AVONDALE SKY SELECT SMALL LOTS SIEGFRIED 2014, NOVA SCOTIA ($20)
Fewer than 25 cases were made of this aromatic white. It is very pale in the glass revealing scents of green fruit with floral and subtle herbal overtones. Attractively soft, honeyed tree fruit flavours suggest ripe pear and apricot. Residual sweetness is throttled back by crisp acidity and gritty mineral. Fresh light character and low alcohol make it a fine apéritif. (SW)
89 BENJAMIN BRIDGE NOVA 7 2015, NOVA SCOTIA ($24.99)
This latest vintage shows light pink tinge in the glass with signature perfumed floral, berry fruit scents and a trace of green herb. Flavours of strawberry lead off on the palate together with background citrus and cranberry, backed by gentle fizz and a touch of sweetness balanced by bright acidity and mineral grip. (SW)
89 DOMAINE LES BROME RÉSERVE VIDAL 2011, QUÉBEC ($25.05) Pale yellow. This barrel-fermented Vidal has a complex nose of honey, citrus, oak and floral notes. An aroma similar to cooked cabbage may appear in the glass; if so, decanting will get rid of it. The fatty texture and fine acidity are in good balance; the wine weighs on the tongue. Nice notes of warm butter appear in the finish. Great with smoked salmon. (GBQc)
89 JOIE FARM EN FAMILLE RESERVE GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2013, OKANAGAN ($28)
Subtle rose-petal perfume with a just discernable hint of peppery spice and a light whiff of herb give way to somewhat subdued stone fruit in the mouth. Flavours are delivered with a smooth mouthfeel, gentle acidity and a touch of sweetness. Perfumed fruit lingers on the finish. (SW)
88 VIGNOBLE DU MARATHONIEN SEYVAL BLANC 2014, HAVELOCK, QUÉBEC ($14.55)
Pale yellow. Honey, floral notes and a touch of dried herbs. Light and crisp, ripe fruity taste of citrus followed by a somewhat thick, lightly oily texture in the mid-palate. Savoury finish. Drink now. (GBQc)
88 WILD GOOSE AUTUMN GOLD 2014, OKANAGAN ($17)
Equal parts Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Gewürztraminer. Effusive floral and spice, infused with elderflower and honeysuckle. Well-balanced duo of citrusy acidity and sweet orchard fruit on the medium-bodied palate. Ginger and honeycrisp apple linger on the finish. A sipper for salty and pickled snacks. (HH)
88 FIELDING ESTATE WINERY RIESLING ESTATE BOTTLED 2014, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($18.95)
A bouquet of lime, pink grapefruit, peach, white flowers and honey also carry over onto the palate. Splendid length with some residual sugar balancing out the fresh acidity. Well-crafted and ready to drink. (ES)
88 QUAILS’ GATE CHARDONNAY 2014, OKANAGAN ($19)
A 50/50 blend of tank and barrel fermentation. The former contributes fresh citrus and tropical fruitiness. The latter adds spicy complexity with caramel notes throughout. Elegant, juicy and subtly buttery, so quite versatile. Poised for all manner of seafood, chicken or cheese. (HH)
88 PONDVIEW BELLA TERRA PINOT GRIS 2013, FOUR MILE CREEK ($19.95)
A heftier Gris thanks to a combination of partial new oak and lees stirring. Peach, honey, cream, apple, citrus, lemon, smoke, spice and yellow flowers. Creamy in the mouth with good acid and very good length. Pickerel in a beurre blanc sauce would be killer with this wine. (ES)
88 DOMAINE DE GRAND PRÉ VINTNER’S RESERVE RIESLING 2014, NOVA SCOTIA ($19.99) Shows delicate floral, citrus and green fruit on the nose, together with a light whiff of mineral. Zesty citrus flavours kick in on the palate with persistent lime character, mineral and crisp green apple chiming in on the finish. (SW)
88 KONZELMANN OLD VINES RIESLING 2014, NIAGARA ($22.95) Dry, this Riesling features aromas of sweet peach, nectarines, bergamot, mar-
zipan, spice and lemon. The palate, although crisp, features slight creamy notes from barrel fermentation and a lengthy apple/mineral-tinged finish. (ES)
88 PONDVIEW BELLA TERRA CHARDONNAY BARREL FERMENTED 2013, FOUR MILE CREEK ($25)
As the name denotes, there is new oak in the form of vanilla, toast and anise. Add in pineapple, banana, apple and orange attributes from the grape itself and you have a sophisticated and delicious drop of juice. Medium to full body; there is a creamy texture and great length. Lobster risotto with this for sure! (ES)
87 HENRY OF PELHAM FAMILY TREE WHITE 2012, NIAGARA ($17.95)
A Chardonnay, Viognier, Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc blend. Tropical fruit dominant on the nose with a good dose of oak afterwards. It is soft and easy-drinking with mature elements of caramel chiming in on the palate. Ready to drink. (ES)
87 FIELDING ESTATE WINERY VIOGNIER 2014, NIAGARA ($22.95)
rather than French. This one has a nose of green plums and nettles; it’s dry, fresh and lively on the palate with flavours of gooseberry and grapefruit and a long, lingering finish. (TA)
89 WILLIAM FÈVRE ESPINO GRAN CUVÉE 2013, PIRQUE ($18.95)
William Fèvre is one of the pre-eminent producers of Chablis in Burgundy. The company also owns a winery in Chile. This is Chablis on steroids. Pale straw in colour with a lemony, toasty nose, it’s dry, medium-bodied, fresh and lively on the palate with a crisp apple flavour and a lovely mouthfeel. (TA)
88 MONTES TWINS SAUVIGNON BLANC/CHARDONNAY/VIOGNIER 2015, COLCHAGUA VALLEY ($11)
A very interesting blend. Pale straw in colour with an aromatic, honeysuckle, peach and apple nose heightened by a grassy note from the Sauvignon; medium-bodied and dry. A versatile food wine and good value. (TA)
87 ROOT: 1 SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015, CASABLANCA VALLEY ($12.95)
A midweight Viognier, which leans more towards a citrus/grapefruit personality rather than the blowsy tropical/ warmer style. There is some spice, peach, apricot and floral undertones. Fine length and ready to drink. (ES)
This is the new white companion to the Root: 1 Carménère. Starts off with lime, grapefruit and nectarine qualities and then shifts into more herbal and mineral elements. Lightweight, crisp and dry. Perfect for the summer months of patio sipping. (ES)
86 CALLIOPE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, BC VQA ($17)
FRANCE
Pungent herbal and melon notes, with notes of gooseberry, passion fruit and pink grapefruit. Partial fermentation contributes to a round, medium-bodied palate, with spice notes on an unctuous finish. Very nice with halibut and chips. (HH)
CHILE 89 LOMA LARGA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, ACONCAGUA VALLEY ($16.95)
Chilean Sauvignon Blanc that tastes like Sancerre from the Loire Valley: now that’s something to get excited about, especially since the price is Chilean
91 MANOIR GRIGNON CHARDONNAY 2013, IGP PAYS D’OC ($11.25)
Clear deep yellow. Guava dominates the tropical-fruit nose, with some smoke from generous use of oak. A full-bodied fruit bomb — could be New World — but in good balance, tasting of lime, apple and orange. Good value. Drink up. (RL)*
90 DOMAINE BESSON CHABLIS 2013, BURGUNDY ($28.95)
Straw colour with a hint of lime, this tasty Chablis offers a nose of apple and apple blossom; it’s dry and medium-bodied with a crisp green apple flavour and a hint of bitterness on the finish to give it interest. Good length. (TA)
89 LA PETITE PERRIÈRE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014 ($16.99)
Despite the rather generic “Vin de France” description on the label, this resembles Sauvignon with a much more impressive pedigree. It offers fine citrus, green apple and floral scents with succulent green and yellow fruit flavours, creamy texture, appetizing acidity and great overall balance. (SW)
89 DOMAINE MILLET CHABLIS 2014, BURGUNDY ($26.95)
Straw colour with a lovely apple blossom and ripe apple nose; richly extracted, mouth-filling and crisply dry with a firm finish. (TA)
87 WILLM PINOT BLANC RÉSERVE 2014, AC ALSACE ($16.79)
Opens with bright citrus and dry savoury on the nose with supple citrus, apple and pear flavours. Smoothly textured body, a lick of mineral and cream custard impression on the finish. (SW)
86 CHÂTEAU PESQUIÉ LE PARADOU VIOGNIER, RHÔNE 2014 ($18) Pale yellow. Muted nose, only hints of apricot. Delicate acidity, balanced with a fatty texture; slightly fruity taste with a short finish. Viognier is a “fashionable” grape, so prices tend to be higher. This is acceptable, but drink it soon. (GBQc)
86 BICHOT CHARDONNAY 2014, BURGUNDY ($18.50)
Very pale yellow. Shy nose of citrus notes with a mineral edge. Balanced mouthfeel, filling mid-palate with adequate fruit and a short but clean finish. Nothing exciting but it is well made. Drink now. (GBQc)
GERMANY 88 THÖRLE RIESLING FEINHERB 2014, RHEINHESSEN ($20)
The term Feinherb denotes a wine that is off-dry. Lime, peach, powdered candies, yeast and minerals. Very good length and ready to drink. Pair with sushi or schnitzel. (ES)
88 SELBACH OSTER RIESLING DRY 2014, MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER ($23) True to label, this is a narrow and dry Riesling. Lemon-driven with green apple
JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 55
NOTED and stone support. Tight, fresh and crisp, leesy interest cushions racy fruit and plumps up the body. The acidity greedily gobbles up the 7.3 g/l of residual sugar, leaving this lean, tight and best suited to oysters or spot prawns. (TR)
GREECE 92 SANTO WINES ASSYRTIKO GRAND RESERVE 2013, SANTORINI ($29.95)
This wine is a worthy successor to the fabulous 2012! Full-bodied, this oak-aged Assyrtiko exudes toast, peach, pineapple, citrus, red apple, honey, anise and bay leaf. The palate is a combination of cream and acidity with a brilliant finale. Singular superb Santorini! (ES)
ITALY 95 E VON KELLER GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2013, DOC ALTO ADIGE ($17.33)
Clear, old gold. Complex, medium-intensity aromas reminiscent of a cup of orange-spice tea sprinkled with rose petals. A classic, full-bodied, fully dry Gewürz, but so fruity it almost tastes sweet. At its best now. (RL)*
92 QUINTODECIMO GIALLO D’ARLES GRECO DI TUFO 2013, GRECO DI TUFO DOCG, CAMPANIA ($61)
HUNGARY
There are 7 types of the ancient variety Greco in Italy, all of which are rich in polyphenols and anthocyanins, resulting in a white wine unusually golden yellow and with light tannins. Certainly evident here in this striking example, with a shining gold hue leading to light honey, quince, wild herbs, ample salts and broken stone. Great concentration on the expansive palate, all pinned with lovely refreshing acidity and tucked with that fine grip of tannins. Organically farmed 15-year-old vines from a clay-soiled single vineyard at 520 m ferment in small oak and stainless steel (30/70) for a month before resting on fine lees in larger vessels for 7 months. Quintodecimo is an exciting advocate for native grapes of Campania, and his wines are worth seeking out. (TR)
91 CHATEAU MEGYER TOKAJI FURMINT 2013 ($23)
91 TIBERIO PECORINO 2014, PECORINO IGT, ABRUZZO ($29)
90 SANTO WINES SANTORINI ASSYRTIKO 2015, SANTORINI ($14.95) This wine, soon to be released to the LCBO general list, is an incredible value! Grown at the highest elevations of the island, it delivers nectarine, citrus, green apple, hints of honey and salty minerals. Dry; Assyrtiko’s crystalline acidity helps carry the long finish. There is enough power here to pair with fish, poultry and even pork. For this price, make sure to pick up a few bottles. (ES)
Located in Tokaji-Hegyalja in northeastern Hungary, the Megyer estate was classified as “First Growth” in 1772 by royal decree. Furmint, so often associated with the legendary long-lived Tokaji dessert wines, is capable of making complex, bone-dry, phenolic, mineral-laden and herbal dry white wines, which is certainly the case here. Hay, salted lemon, green fig, pear skin, green apple blossom, wild herbs and broken stone fill the medium-bodied frame. 8 months in stainless steel preserve the freshness, while a thin cushion of oil-slicked lees provides grounding. A striking intro to dry furmint and a brilliant value too. (TR) 56 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
Pecorino is such a trendy grape that the amount of people producing “Pecorino” outnumbers the number of hectares planted in the country. Caveat emptor. This is a mountain grape variety suited to altitude and alpine environs. Tiberio’s is planted on limestone at 350 m, and highlights the grape’s characteristic wild herbs, with a riff of wild mint, flake salt and a sheen of light white honey on the creamy palate. Brisk, finely threaded acidity propels quince and green fig to the finish. A beauty to pour with Italian vegetarian dishes — think greens, barley, pine nuts, Meyer lemon, ricotta and go from there (you won’t go wrong). (TR)
90 BOLLA RETRO 2013, SOAVE CLASSICO DOC ($18.99)
An outstanding example of traditional Soave offering intensely aromatic floral scents reminiscent of honeysuckle together with green fruit and nutty overtones. Equally intense green apple flavours show creamy, nutty richness with excellent acid balance, good weight and a touch of butter on the finish. (SW)
89 LUNGAROTTI TORRE DI GIANO VERMENTINO/TREBBIANO/ GRECHETTO 2014, UMBRIA IGT ($17.29) Opens with gentle floral, green fruit and yellow fruit scents followed by bright green fruit taking centre stage in the mouth with mellow-ripe tropical fruit in the background. Shows harmonious balance with refreshing but not overbearing acidity and a clean freshfruit finish. (SW)
89 TEDESCHI CAPITEL TENDA SOAVE CLASSICO 2014, SOAVE CLASSICO DOC, VENETO ($17.65)
From 20-year-old grapes harvested from the oldest area of Soave — the commune of Monteforte d’Alpone. Garganega can be quite insipid when yields are high, but thankfully this has had some care and shows some lovely Soave character. Earthy, light honey, elderflower, apricot fuzz, wild herbs and citrus oil fill the medium-bodied palate. Acids are tight, raising a skiff of lees and Bosc pear. Lean but concentrated (some botrytis here), with fine herbal salts on the finish. (TR)
NEW ZEALAND 90 LAGOON HILL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, MARTINBOROUGH ($18.95)
From the Martinborough region located on NZ’s North Island comes this expressive single-vineyard Sauvignon Blanc that was organically farmed. The mango, guava, orange, passion fruit, lime, pink grapefruit and herbs jump out of the glass and onto the taste buds, where spice and lively acidity frame everything quite nicely. Ready to drink. (ES)
89 LAWSON’S DRY HILLS PINOT GRIS 2014, MARLBOROUGH ($19)
Definitely modeled after a rich Alsace Pinot Gris rather than a lighter Pinot Grigio. Loads of ripe, juicy peach up-front, with some sweet honey, pear and caramel fragrances all kept in line via some bracing mineralogy. Rich and honeyed, it sports nuances of pear nectar and clove. There’s a dash of heat on the finish from the 14% ABV; it’s all balanced by some zesty spice notes and cleansing acidity. (SL)
88 MARISCO VINEYARDS THE NED PINOT GRIS 2015, WAIHOPEI VALLEY, MARLBOROUGH ($15)
Pale blush in the glass, this full, round Pinot Gris is cut with a slicing pear-skin bitterness and pink grapefruit acidity, balancing off ripe nectarine, white peach, mandarin and yellow apple with a pithy edge and a bump of ripe sweetness. Ample ginger spicing and peach fuzz on the finish. Friendly; drink now with prawns and papaya salad. (TR)
88 MOMO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2014, MARLBOROUGH ($19.95)
In the Maori language, the word “Momo” means “offering.” This is classic Marlborough Sauvignon – very pale straw in colour with a grassy, guava nose. It’s crisply dry, light-to-medium-bodied on the palate with a flavour of crushed elderberries. Serve it with seafood dishes or goat’s cheese. (TA)
with Chenin’s characteristic honey and kissed with meadow and hay. A wash of bitter citrus closes out the juicy finish. A step sideways from Sauvignon Blanc; pour with prawns or calamari. (TR)
86 GOATS DO ROAM WHITE 2015, WESTERN CAPE ($11.95)
Moderate aromas of peach, honey, spice, peanuts, white flowers and honey. Midweight, there is some creaminess on the palate as well as a brisk finale. A singular blend of 61% Viognier, 20% Roussanne and 19% Grenache Blanc. (ES)
UNITED STATES 90 LA CREMA SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY 2013, SONOMA ($30) Always a lovely Chardonnay that draws its personality from the cool, foggy influences of California’s west coast. The nose shows vivid granny smith apple, soft barrel spices with lemon/citrus and pear accents. It’s well balanced on the palate with creamy pear and apple flavours, integrated spice and fairly bright acidity through the finish. (RV)
90 STAGS’ LEAP VIOGNIER 2014, NAPA ($32)
PORTUGAL
Beautifully floral with peach aromas and flavours, vibrant, minerally and fresh with great complexity, balance and an uplifted finish. Refreshing and mouth-filling on its own, but a tremendously versatile wine with shellfish, white meat and Asian cuisine. (GB)
88 QUINTA DA BARREIRA BRANCO 2013 ($16)
87 STONE VALLEY CHARDONNAY 2013 ($10.67)
Clear lemon-peel yellow. Medium-intensity nose of pineapple, mango and passion fruit. Light-bodied with simple, fresh flavours of pears and peaches, topped with lemony acidity. Drink up. (RL)*
SOUTH AFRICA 87 SPIER CHENIN BLANC 2015, WO WESTERN CAPE ($13.50)
Great value for this intense, youthful Chenin Blanc, sourced from various vineyards in the Coastal and Breede river regions of the Western Cape. Tight and lean gooseberry, mandarin and pear are slicked
Clear pale gold. Hyper-fruity aromas include banana, ripe pear, citrus and a bit of brown sugar. Medium-bodied with adequate peach and apple fruit and pie crust on the palate. Short, slightly bitter finish. Footsoldier California Chard at a good price. (RL)*
87 PINE RIDGE CHENIN BLANC/VIOGNIER 2014, CALIFORNIA ($26)
Fresh and crisp with pear, peach, citrus, honey and mineral; quite lively and juicy with a lifted and refreshing finish. A nice match with seafood salads and white meats prepared with Asian flavours. (GB)
ROSÉ 90 JOST VINEYARDS SELKIE ROSÉ FRIZZANTE 2015, NOVA SCOTIA ($19.99)
Beguiling fragrance of rose petals, strawberry and raspberries opens the way for delicate, seductive red-fruit flavours backed by refreshing acidity, gentle spritz and an agreeable touch of residual sweetness on the finish. A charming wine that serves equally well as an apéritif or to accompany hors d’ouevres and other picnic-style foods. (SW)
88 MALIVOIRE LADYBUG ROSÉ 2014, NIAGARA ($26)
Rosé gets a bad rap because of White Zinfandel, but good dry rosés are delicious and default food wines. Made from Cabernet Franc, Gamay and Pinot Noir grapes, this wine is full and juicy with aromas and flavours of raspberry, cranberry and cherry with hints of spice, earth and fresh herbs. Medium structure and a long, fresh finish. Anyone who thinks rosés aren’t delicious and versatile wines will be converted with just one taste. (GB)
86 FIELDING ESTATE WINERY ROSÉ 2015, NIAGARA ($15.95)
A dry and easy-drinking rosé with flavours of strawberry, raspberry, pink grapefruit and hints of pepper. Good length, fresh acid and ready for patio sipping or charcuterie boards. (ES)
RED ARGENTINA 88 LA POSTA ARMANDO BONARDA 2014, MENDOZA ($14.95) This little-known grape from Argentina produces a wine that is purple-black in colour with a spicy, vanilla and black-cherry nose. Medium-bodied and dry with good presence in the mouth, it has black plum and cherry flavours ending on a cedary note. The good news is that at $14.95, it punches way above its weight. A red-meat wine if ever there was one. (TA)
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NOTED 88 LA LINDA MALBEC 2014, MENDOZA ($17.99)
An interesting Malbec showing red currant, tobacco leaf, green herbal notes, a splash of vanilla and a trace of clove on the nose. Nicely structured, with red currant fruit, approachable tannins and a light dollop of milk chocolate. It finishes with a well-integrated, lightly dry finish. (SW)
AUSTRALIA 91 WAKEFIELD ST ANDREWS SINGLE VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($58)
This single-vineyard Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from the historic St Andrews property, first planted in 1892. Classic terra rossa soils atop a limestone base yield this refined Cab, the riper red and black fruit showing some softening at the corners, but holding the bright freshness. Ample leather, dried cherry and tobacco leaf lead, with cherry, thorny cassis and cedar bringing up the rear. 18 months in French oak are integrating well into the fruit, with lengthy tannins straddling ripe and grippy. Sweet spices and warm ripeness (14.5% alcohol) gives this a generosity that is well suited to roast pork if drinking now. Otherwise, continue to cellar for another few years. (TR)
90 TEUSNER JOSHUA 2013, BAROSSA VALLEY ($29.95)
Full-bodied, this Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre blend doles out plum, blackberry, sweet black cherry, spice, vanilla, roasted herbs, anise and vanilla. Long finish, lots of ripe tannins and a good amount of acid make for an excellent food wine. (ES)
89 WOLF BLASS GOLD LABEL SYRAH 2012, ADELAIDE HILLS ($24.90)
Deep ruby with purple highlights. Full-bodied yet elegant; there are masses of plum, blackberry, cassis, raspberry, eucalyptus, anise, tar and violets. Concentrated, ripe and excellent length. The 58 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
alcohol is 14.5%, but there is no burn. Nice balance. (ES)
89 TWO HANDS SEXY BEAST CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ($27.95)
This is a strapping Cab at 14.5% alcohol. Dense purple-black in colour, it presents a nose of blackcurrant and cedar tinged with vanilla oak. Full-bodied and mouth-filling; the fruit is sweet but kept in check by a lively spine of acidity. (TA)
88 19 CRIMES SHIRAZ DURIF 2014, VICTORIA ($18.95)
From the cooler Victoria comes this dark ruby/purple-coloured red. Blackberry, black cherry, plum, violets, spice, cocoa, ink, cookie dough and vanilla replay from the nose to the palate. Full-bodied with some warmth and fine length. (ES)
88 FOWLES ARE YOU GAME? SHIRAZ 2012, VICTORIA ($22)
Loads of ripe blackberry and black cherry aromas and flavours with mocha, black pepper, tobacco, savoury herbs, finegrained tannins and a fresh, lifted finish. A splash of Tempranillo blended in adds to the character of the wine. A nice match with lamb and wild game. (GB)
87 DE BORTOLI ESTATE GROWN PINOT NOIR 2014, YARRA VALLEY ($34)
Ripe and warm strawberry jam fills the nose and leads the palate of this Yarra Valley Pinot, an area generally well suited to this heartbreak grape. Cherry gummies, perfumed raspberries, forest floor and fine pink peppercorn are supported by fine, ripe tannins, finishing with a flood of acidity, a stemmy grip and a whack of heat. Youthful and welcoming; enjoy with salmon burgers. (TR)
BRAZIL 87 SALTON INTENSO MERLOT 2010 ($13)
Clear, medium-deep garnet, starting to brown at the edges. Somewhat faint bouquet of plums and blueberries with a drizzle of maple syrup. Light-bodied,
fresh and fruity for its age, tasting of tart cherries with a long finish. Drink now, won’t get better. (RL)*
CANADA 93 TRIUS SHOWCASE RED SHALE CABERNET FRANC 2012, ONTARIO ($45.20)
Another impressive wine from winemaker Craig McDonald. Deep ruby in colour; inky, savoury nose of cedar, tar, ripe black plum and vanilla oak; medium-bodied, dry, elegant and firmly structured with a damson flavour lifted with a floral note. Very St-Émilion in style. A gorgeous wine. (TA)
93 RENNIE ESTATE G 2013, NIAGARA ($55)
An appassimento-style blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc that’s dried for up to 106 days. It is a powerful wine in every way. The nose reveals rich cherry pie, raspberry compote, crushed blackcurrants, graphite, forest floor, kirsch, dried herbs, bramble and toasted oak spices. It’s unfair to drink this now, with that mass of ripe, firm tannins, but underneath there is a range of saturated and highly extracted red and dark fruits to go with expressive vanilla-nutmeg-caramel spices, anise/ liquorice notes and earth that’s all a little disjointed at the moment. (RV)
92 STAG’S HOLLOW TEMPRANILLO 2013, OKANAGAN ($25.99) A truly impressive example of what this variety might be able to do: up-front black fruit and tobacco notes before a well balanced, full and structured palate of cassis and black cherry, with spicy notes underpinned by good acidity, and a lingering end. (TP)
92 STAG’S HOLLOW RENAISSANCE PINOT NOIR 2014, OKANAGAN ($34.99)
Up-front black fruit with cherry and plum, along with very good balance of fruit and acidity on a fairly full-bodied palate. Stony hints and a pleasing, savoury edge. (TP)
92 ROSEHALL RUN ROSEHALL VINEYARD JCR PINOT NOIR 2013, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY ($39)
The nose is subtle and pretty with bramble, red fruits and barrel spices; harmonious as they open up in the glass. The cherry, cranberry and raspberry notes build on the palate with an interesting vein of minerality and earth that’s all carried on a bed of silky tannins and lifted by freshening acidity. (RV)
92 HAYWIRE WATERS & BANKS PINOT NOIR 2014, OKANAGAN ($40) The nose shows gently crushed cherry, crunchy raspberry and wild berry-fruit that builds in intensity as it opens up in the glass. This is an elegant Pinot with gorgeous texture that carries nuanced red fruits, subtle earthy notes and spice along a smooth foundation of supple tannins. (RV)
92 FIELDING ESTATE THE CHOSEN FEW 2012, NIAGARA ($59.95)
rich, bold array of dark fruits, range of baking spices, pepper, liquorice, chewy tannins and firm structure. (RV)
90 TWO SISTERS MERLOT 2012, ONTARIO ($48)
Deep ruby colour showing a nose of cedar, blueberry and blackcurrant with a spicy, toasty oak note; medium to full body, dry, well-extracted blueberry and black cherry flavours; full in the mouth, with well-integrated oak and a floral grace note. Firmly structured with ripe tannins. Hold for 2 years. (TA)
89 HENRY OF PELHAM CABERNET/ MERLOT ESTATE 2012, SHORT HILLS BENCH ($24.95) Cassis, raspberry, mint, spice, vanilla and herbs are present in this stylish Bordeaux-inspired red. On the fuller side, the tannins are present and the finale long. Grilled lamb chops and vegetables would be sublime. Drink until 2021. (ES)
Only made in the best years, this, the 2nd vintage of this wine (the first was in 2007), is truly impressive. The final blend of 38% Cabernet Franc, 37% Syrah and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon was a selection of Fielding’s best barrels and there was no fining and filtering whatsoever. Medium to full body; there is a rich texture and lots of smoke, chocolate, dark cherry, cassis, blackberry, black pepper/spice and olive. Great length and structure allow it to age another 7 to 8 years. (ES)
89 CORCELETTES SYRAH 2013, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($27)
91 EMANDARE VINEYARD MARECHAL FOCH 2014, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($23)
Deep ruby colour with a cedar, savoury nose of vanilla oak, pencil lead, black fruits and a herbal note; medium-bodied, dry, somewhat tight at the moment, dark chocolate and currant flavours carried on a lively spine of acidity to a cinnamon finish. (TA)
Lifted red berries on the nose with a rounded palate of mulberry and dark cherry; well structured with approachable tannins and a definite hint of graphite, layered with good length on the finish. (TP)
90 RENNIE ESTATE SCARPATA 2013, NIAGARA ($45)
Scarpata is Graham Rennie’s Ripasso-style wine that this year is made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. The nose shows expressive plum, blackberry, currants, cocoa, nutmeg, Cuban cigar leaf, caramel and a truffle note. It brings some heat on the palate with 15.5% ABV, but is somewhat tempered by the
Opens with fragrant violets, blueberry, black plum, vanilla and white pepper. Ripe dark berries and chocolate fill the full-bodied palate, buttressed by plush tannins and 14 months in French and American oak. Cracked pepper and gamey notes on the finish. Not shy, so can handle well-marinated meats. (HH)
89 TWO SISTERS CABERNET FRANC 2012, ONTARIO ($48)
88 GASPEREAU VINEYARDS LUCIE KUHLMANN 2014, NOVA SCOTIA ($21.99)
Dark plum, black cherry with a pinch of green herb and a dry astringent tannic edge on the nose, with attractive plum and cherry fruit flavours balanced by bracing, food-friendly acidity, moderate tannins and a dash of chocolate. Reminiscent of a mid-weight Italian red, it will pair well with grilled red meats, pasta and pizza. (SW)
87 HENRY OF PELHAM FAMILY TREE RED 2013, ONTARIO ($18.95)
A 5-grape blend where Syrah and Merlot dominate, the Cabernets act as backstop and Baco Noir chimes in at 5%. Blackcurrant, black pepper, raspberry, tobacco, herbs and a slight gamey feature. Mid-weight, fresh acid and very good length. (ES)
87 QUAILS’ GATE MERLOT 2013, OKANAGAN ($22)
Very fragrant bouquet punctuated by cassis, black cherry and dried thyme. 18 months of French oak maturation builds structure, softens tannins and contributes spiciness. Cherry juiciness on the mid-palate transforms to prune, cigar box and dark chocolate shavings on the finish. Begs for smoked meat. (HH)
87 AVONDALE SKY RESERVE MARECHAL FOCH 2012, NOVA SCOTIA ($25)
Reveals deeply scented red fruits with spicy and pleasantly gamey overtones. Transitions to dark fruit on the palate with black cherry, dark plum and a splash of dark chocolate. Finishes very dry with moderate tannic grip and still youthful acidity. (SW)
87 MISSION HILL RESERVE PINOT NOIR 2013, OKANAGAN ($25)
Fragrant bouquet of raspberry, red liquorice and root beer. More red-toned fruits on the medium-bodied palate, plus bright acidity, fine tannins and elegant mouthfeel add up to a quaffable and food-friendly sipper. Strawberry, cherry cola and vanilla linger. Pair with bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin. (HH)
87 CAVE SPRING PINOT NOIR 2014, NIAGARA ($28)
Bright cherry, raspberry and plum aromas and flavours with a hint of spice and fresh herbs, silky texture and a fresh finish. A great match with salmon and rabbit. (GB)
86 GASPEREAU VINEYARDS GINA’S RED 2014, NOVA SCOTIA ($21.99) Fresh red and dark fruit scents with spicy and light herbal overtones evolve to black cherry and red plum with moderate tannins and a splash of milk chocolate in the mouth. Needs time for still-youthful acidity to settle down. (SW)
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NOTED 86 AVONDALE SKY RESERVE BACO NOIR/MARECHAL FOCH 2013, NOVA SCOTIA ($23)
Shows some complexity on the nose, with scents of red currant, plum, cherry and background herbal, spicy and lightly gamey notes. Not as developed on the palate, showing dark bitter cherry, moderate tannins, a splash of chocolate and rather aggressive acidity. (SW)
CHILE
88 TARAPACA GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, MAIPO VALLEY ($17.95)
You have here a quintessential New World Cabernet. Purple-ruby in colour, it shows an earthy, tobacco and blackcurrant nose with a cedary note. Medium-bodied and dry, spicy flavours of cassis and dark chocolate fill the mouth finishing with ripe tannins. (TA)
88 ERRAZURIZ MAX RESERVA SYRAH 2014, ACONCAGUA VALLEY ($18)
A superb Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon with textbook aromas of blackberry, cassis, cherry, mint, vanilla, cocoa, tar and smoke. Concentrated, the tannins are plush and the finale long with just the right amount of warmth. Drink over the next 5 years. Steak all the way with this wine! (ES)
Ripe and sun-sweetened black plum and medicinal cassis is textured with ample fragrant baking spices and studded cloves. Tannins are ripe and smoothed, with just enough toasty grip to remind you of the 12 months in French oak (20% new). Medicinal dark fruits and dusty dark cocoa powder linger on the finish of this youthful wine, one that packs a lot for its price. A fitting pour with braised lamb shank. (TR)
89 ANTU SYRAH 2014, COLCHAGUA VALLEY ($17.95)
FRANCE
91 CONCHA Y TORO MARQUES DE CASA CONCHA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, MAIPO ($21.95)
This Syrah is dense purple in colour with a spicy nose of blackcurrants backed by vanilla oak. The wine is full-bodied and dry with flavours of blackcurrant and dark plum carried on a lively spine of acidity that fills the palate. (TA)
89 FALERNIA RESERVA SYRAH 2013, ELQUI VALLEY ($19.95)
A different take on Syrah than you’ve tried from the Rhône or Barossa; dense purple in colour, it has a smoky, herbal, blackberry nose. It’s full-bodied and fruity but dry and savoury with white pepper, herbal blackberry flavours. (TA)
89 VERAMONTE PRIMUS CARMÉNÈRE 2012, CASABLANCA VALLEY ($19.95)
Chilean Carménère, long thought to be Merlot, is a fascinating grape worth discovering. This bold, full-bodied wine is dense purple in colour with a nose of plums and vanilla oak. Richly extracted flavours of blackcurrants backed by spicy oak fill the palate. The mouthfeel is soft and the flavour lingering. Match it with rich meat dishes. (TA) 60 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
93 GILLES FLACHER 2010, AC SAINT-JOSEPH ($22.67)
Deep plum-red with fine suspended particles. Aromas of smoke, cherries, caramel, pepper and black liquorice. Full-bodied and muscular, with concentrated black cherry flavours over a woody soft tannin structure. Needs a couple more years. (RL)*
92 TORTOISE CREEK SHIRAZ 2013, IGP PAYS D’OC ($11.50)
Clear, deep plum-red. Medium-intensity jammy nose of plum and cherry, with spices, black liquorice and a bit of rose flower. Only medium-bodied, with simple sour-cherry flavours. Will last a couple more years, but won’t get better. (RL)*
92 DOMAINE SAINTE CÉCILE SONATINA 2012 ($31)
Oh, yum! This is a gorgeous glass of grape goodness! A traditional Rhône blend of 80% Syrah and the rest Cinsault, but what makes it so approachable is a liberal dash of new oak that puts a sweet, toasty veneer over the complex layers of dark, currant-infused fruit,
slate, mocha and dark chocolate. Ripe and spicy (baking spices rather than pepper), it’s packed with chewy, dark, mineral-laced fruit all wrapped around a zesty/earthy core. Approachable now, but will certainly reward another 5 years or so in bottle. (SL)
90 DOMAINE SAINTE CÉCILE NOTES D’ORPHÉE 2012 ($25)
Bordeaux meets Rhône! Mostly Syrah (90%) with a drizzle of Cabernet Franc (10%), the Notes d’Orphée offers up an aromatic profile showcasing dark plum, garrigue and mild gamey/flinty notes. Still a pup and needing a few years’ age (or a good sloshing in one of those Final Touch Conundrum decanters), it nevertheless delivers powerful, concentrated, meaty flavours with a healthy dash of white pepper on the trailing edge. (SL)
90 CHÂTEAU MONT-REDON CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2011 ($46.95)
A serious CNP, which clocks in at 14.5% alcohol. Cherry, plum, cassis, anise, black pepper, smoke and vague oregano qualities waft out of the glass. Tannins are dry and there is great length. A midterm cellar candidate — drink until 2020. (ES)
89 DOMAINE SAINTE CÉCILE NOTES FRANCHES 2012 ($21)
Though located in the south of France, Domaine Sainte Cécile’s Notes Franches is more or less a Bordeaux blend of 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot. Lots of nice, dark, bramble-tinged fruit, with bottom notes of wet stone, charred wood, tar and herbs (mostly mint). Medium-bodied but quite ripe and full-flavoured. Smoky, dark-berry nuances in the mouth with some spice on the finish. Tasty stuff, but I find it lacking a bit of mid-palate. (SL)
89 JEAN-PAUL BRUN BEAUJOLAIS TERRES DORÉES L’ANCIEN 2013, BEAUJOLAIS ($26)
One taste of this wine and you will know why Beaujolais is back. Forget Nouveau (please!); this delicious wine possesses lots of black cherry and spice notes, elegant and stylish with bright acidity on the silky finish. 100% Gamay grapes. Chill it down slightly. A killer food wine. (GB)
88 CHÂTEAU DU GRAND CAUMONT IMPATIENCE 2013, CORBIÈRES, LANGUEDOC ($19.75)
Dark ruby. There is some depth on the nose of cooked red and black berries, garrigue and faded red flowers. Balanced acidity, chewy tannins and a warm mid-palate complete the powerful mouthfeel that retains a good level of fruit but not much freshness. (GBQc)
87 LAROCHE LA CHEVALIÈRE PINOT NOIR 2013, IGP PAYS D’OC ($14.95)
Light ruby. Delicate nose of small red fruits, a bit uni-dimensional but still attractive. Light body; balance is on the acidic side. Texture is supple with a nice fruity taste, finish is barely firm. A good everyday wine for fans of Pinot Noir. (GBQc)
ITALY 92 BOLLA LE ORIGINI 2009, AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO DOC ($45.99)
Bouquet shows developed vinosity with elegant red fruit and refined spicy notes of cinnamon and clove. Darker fruit emerges on the palate with rich black cherry and blackberry flavours enveloped in a velvety smooth texture. Supported by solid tannic structure, finish is complex and harmoniously integrated. (SW)
92 ARCANGELO CUCCUVAIA TOSCANA IGT 2009 ($48)
This 100% Sangiovese made from organic grapes spends 5 years in oak puncheons and rests in bottle another 2 years prior to release. It has an expressive nose of deep, rich plums, currants, cherry extract, blueberry, herbs and profound oak barrel spices. It’s fruit-saturated on the palate with notes of graphite, a range of dark fruits, kirsch, toasted vanilla and spice and a mouthful of ripe tannins that all needs a bit of time to harmonize. (RV)
92 BARONE RICASOLI CASTELLO DI BROLIO CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE 2010, TUSCANY ($70)
This is one magnificent Chianti. Dense ruby in colour with a richly perfumed nose of cherry, a floral note and hints of tobacco, vanilla oak and pencil lead.
Medium-bodied, dry, lovely textures, savoury flavours of cherries and tobacco and gently intrusive oak with a floral note. Firm finish. Very elegant and well balanced. (TA)
91 ARCANGELO PAVONE TOSCANA IGT 2013 ($41)
Wild-fermented, 100% Sangiovese made from organic grapes with a nose of cassis, currants, cherry jam, oak spice and plums. It is loaded with dark and juicy fruits on the palate with firm, structured tannins, depth, concentration and a certain earthy feel on the finish. (RV)
91 DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2008, TUSCANY ($44.95)
This is a very sophisticated and elegant Brunello. The mature ruby colour speaks to its age. Spicy aromas of dried cherry, pencil lead and sandalwood rise from the glass. Medium- to full-bodied, it has a seamlessness that suggests a well-crafted wine that finishes firmly. (TA)
89 MASSERIA SURANI HERACLES PRIMITIVO 2013, PUGLIA ($17.95)
After DNA analysis, the Zinfandel grape of California was found to be the same as the Primitivo grape grown in southern Italy and Sicily. This is a big wine. Dense purple in colour with an intense nose of black plums and vanilla oak. Full-bodied and richly extracted, it offers fruity, ripe plum and cocoa flavours. A carnivore’s wine if ever there was one. (TA)
89 SCHIACCIANOCI 2013, NEGROAMARO SALENTO IGP ($19.99)
Elegantly perfumed red and dark fruit with subtle spice aromas lead into well-integrated fresh cherry and ripe berry flavours with moderate tannins and gently balancing acidity. Finish is quite dry with a lingering trace of blackcurrant fruit. (SW)
89 BOLLA CRESO 2012, VERONA ROSSO IGT ($32.99)
A blend of Veronese Corvina with 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, partially dried in the local ripasso style to add depth and complexity. Shows plenty of ripe fruit, vanilla spice, green herbal notes and a hint of smokiness on the nose. Generously rounded blackcurrant and black-
berry flavours are enveloped in smooth velvety tannins, finishing with a splash of milk chocolate. (SW)
88 MEDICI ERMETE CONCERTO REGGIANO LAMBRUSCO 2014, LAMBRUSCO DOP, EMILIA ROMAGNA ($19.65)
Deep and dark in hue but light and crisp in acidity, this is a blend of 85/15 Lambrusco Salamino and Lambrusco Ancelotta, the former a tannic and deeply coloured grape and the latter a gentler, slightly sweeter grape, used to soften the blend. Earthy dark berries, wine gums, floral, balsamic and tart raspberries fill the mouth, one textured with brisk acidity and a fine grip of tannins. Black peppercorn spicing on the dry finish. Pour with richer, fattier charcuterie and rustic hearty cheeses. (TR)
88 BOLLA LA POIANE 2012, VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO CLASSICO SUPERIORE DOC ($24.99)
Delivers deeply coloured and scented dark cherry with spicy and richly rounded dark and red fruit and some chocolate notes in the mouth. Pair with mixed grills and mature cheeses. (SW)
PORTUGAL 89 MONDECO RED 2010, DÃO ($14) Buy this by the case — a great-value house wine. Dense purple-black in colour, it has an earthy, spicy, blackberry nose. The wine is full-bodied and dry but creamy on the palate with well-extracted black fruit flavours and a firm finish. (TA)
89 QUINTA DAS MAIAS TINTO 2012, DÃO ($20)
I love the price-quality ratio of the wines from the Dão, as they are providing some of the best-value wines in the world. Lots of bright cherry, blackcurrant, earth and spice with great freshness, bright acidity and a lip-smacking finish. A delicious blend of Jaen and Touriga Nacional. (GB)
88 BEYRA VINHOS DE ALTITUDE RESERVA 2012, BEIRA ($12.95)
You gotta love Portuguese wines for their pricing. This is a blend of Tempranillo, Mercia and the port grape Touriga Nacional. Grown at altitude, it also has JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 61
NOTED attitude. Dense purple in colour, it has an earthy nose of blueberry, vanilla oak and pencil lead. It’s medium-bodied with sweet fruit that finishes dry on the palate. Well-balanced, it’s easy-drinking and easy on the pocketbook. (TA)
SOUTH AFRICA 89 RUSTENBERG BUZZARD KLOOF SYRAH 2011, SIMONSBERG-STELLENBOSCH ($24.95) An intriguing Syrah. Dense purple in colour, it has a smoky, blackberry nose with cedar and oak spice notes. Medium-bodied and dry, firmly structured with a lively thread of acidity, it has that umami flavour that makes for a very tasty wine. (TA)
88 THE WOLFTRAP SYRAH/ MOURVÈDRE/VIOGNIER 2014, WESTERN CAPE ($13.95)
This Rhône-inspired blend delivers the goods at an affordable price. Cassis, plum, dark cherry, smoke, leather, spice and vanilla are supported by soft tannins and an easy-drinking nature. Barbecue all the way! (ES)
SPAIN 90 TORRES LAUDIS PRIORAT 2012, PRIORAT DOQ ($25.75) Savoury anise, graphite and dried cassis open this Priorat, a blend of Garnacha and Cariñena. Bright blue plum, ripe cassis, anise and smoky quartz stoniness fill the generous body, one shouldered with plush tannins and moderate structure, and laced with bergamot. Acidity is fine, but enough to moderate the concentration and heat (14.5% feels hot on the finish). Drinking well now, decanted, and with herb-roasted lamb. (TR)
89 JUAN GIL SILVER LABEL 2012, JUMILLA DOP ($21.80)
Ripe plum, leather and a puff of sweet pipe smoke open this stalwart silver label Monastrell, always a consistent Spanish bet. This captures Jumilla’s massive heat and generosity well, highlighting 62 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
the savoury, concentrated old vines (40+ years old) grown on chalky, limestone soils. Whole-cluster maceration for 25 days before a year in French oak builds in structure as well as power. Not shy, this is drinking very well now in its 4th year, as the grippy, ample tannins are wearing around the edges. (TR)
86 COSTERS DEL SIÓ LA BOSCANA TEMPRANILLO/CABERNET/SYRAH 2013, COSTERS DEL SEGRE ($22)
An interesting blend providing blackberry, blueberry, currants and spice with nice weight and structure. The oak stands out a touch. Try with braised meat dishes. (GB)
UNITED STATES 90 LA CREMA SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR 2013 ($32)
A spicy nose with ripe black cherry, cassis, elegant oak spices, bramble and raspberry. This is nicely balanced with rockin’ red fruits, plums, nutmeg spice and a soft, silky delivery through the finish. (RV)
89 CASTORO CELLARS MERLOT 2012, PASO ROBLES ($19)
Clear deep garnet. Faint nose of slightly burnt cherry pie or perhaps Christmas fruit cake. Well balanced; the high alcohol (14.5%) is kept contained within the acid, blackberry fruit and tannins. Good drinking now, will keep another year. (RL)*
89 LA CREMA PINOT NOIR 2013, SONOMA COAST ($31.95)
Sweet cherry, raspberry, strawberry, plum, herbs and baking spice are all present in the silky offering. Elegant; the tannins are on the lighter side and there is a touch of warmth on the finale. An appealing Pinot, this is ready to drink. (ES)
89 RAVENSWOOD SINGLE VINEYARD BARRICIA ZINFANDEL 2012, SONOMA ($46)
Ripely fruited and worn smooth on the edges, 100-year-old vines express their complexities in this single-vineyard Zinfandel (splashed with nearly a quarter of perfumed Petite Sirah). Ripe, plump plum, perfumed cassis, boysen-
berry, dried violets, sweet tobacco and heaps of sweet and peppery spice fill this full-bodied red. Tannins are ripe, sueded and finish dry with a dusky bitter-chocolate oak-driven tug. Full of body and alcohol; pour alongside braised short ribs with dried fruits. (TR)
88 ST FRANCIS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, SONOMA ($27)
Sourced from mountain and hillside vineyards across the Sonoma County AVA, this full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon opens with fragrant cassis, blackberries and a dark floral perfume. Black liquorice, ripe black fruits and jam coat the palate, one hemmed in with sticky, ripe tannins. Evident wood here, though fairly well integrated, finishing with a little vanilla and a whack of heat. Ready to drink now, with lamb burgers. (TR)
87 SLEDGEHAMMER ZINFANDEL 2013, CALIFORNIA ($16.95)
Will appeal to those who love soft and succulent reds. Bramble fruit, spice, raisins, black tea and tobacco are layered on soft tannins. There is a slight sweetness, but this is Zin, so not a problem at all. Great length and ready to drink. (ES)
86 STONE VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, CALIFORNIA ($10) Clear, medium-deep garnet. Bouquet of cherry, cassis, a touch of oak spice and some green herbal notes. Light-bodied. Simple flavours of mixed red berries with a short finish. (RL)*
DESSERT 95 ARGIOLAS ANGIALIS ISOLA DEI NURAGHI VINO DA UVE STRAMATURE 2012, SARDINIA, ITALY ($49.99)
Simply one of the best dessert wines I’ve tasted in years. A blend of the local appassimento Nasco grape and Malvasia, aged in barrique 18 months. Old gold colour with lifted nose of honeysuckle, honey, orange and cardamom; rich and full on the palate, beautifully balanced and seamless. Just a delight to drink. (TA)
95 GRAND PRÉ RIESLING ICEWINE 2013, NOVA SCOTIA ($54.50)
Amber/old gold in colour with an unctuous nose of honey, butter and barley sugar; full-bodied, spicy, orange and honey flavour. Sweet but beautifully balanced with mouth-freshening acidity; great balance and great length. A triumph from Nova Scotia. One of the best Riesling Icewines I’ve tasted. (TA)
94 DE BORTOLI NOBLE ONE BOTRYTIS SÉMILLON 2011, RIVERINA, NSW, AUSTRALIA ($27)
This is as good as it gets as a dessert wine. Amber colour with an intense barley sugar, burnt orange-peel nose; concentrated sweet orange marmalade and toast flavours; surprisingly medium-bodied for its concentration of flavour; beautifully balanced with great length. (TA)
92 CAVE VINICOLE DE HUNAWIHR RIESLING VENDANGES TARDIVES 2009, ALSACE, FRANCE ($25.33)
Clear medium to deep yellow. Strong “petrol” aromas, along with peach, orange and banana. Medium-bodied with a slight fizz. Tons of fruit: sweet apple custard, orange and pineapple with a little rose-petal bitterness on the finish. Classic with dessert, but with sufficient acidity to also be a good foil to Cantonese food. Drinking well now but will last a few more years. (RL)*
90 SANTO WINES VINSANTO 2008, SANTORINI, GREECE ($33/500 ML)
This dessert wine is a blend of 85% Assyrtiko and 15% Aidani that was sun-dried for 10 days. Syrupy and concentrated, it possesses 280g of residual sugar and a personality of raisins, dried figs, prunes, molasses, maple syrup and buckwheat honey. There is a long finale with just enough acidity to provide symmetry. (ES)
BEER UNCLE LEO’S BREWERY JAM SESSION AMERICAN PALE ALE, LYON’S BROOK, NOVA SCOTIA ($5.61) Light amber-coloured, showing clean citrus and green hoppy aromas with
background nutty malt. Fruity and malty flavours quickly give way to persistent dry hoppy character on the finish. (SW)
ROGUE ALES DEAD GUY ALE, NEWPORT, OREGON, UNITED STATES ($10.99/650 ML)
Subtle interplay of nutty, toasty and fruity aromas lead into rich, fruity malt flavours with some orange citrus and coffee/chocolate character, dry hoppy bitterness and contrasting fruity sweetness on the finish. (SW)
HELM BERNARD PALE ALE, QUEBEC ($4/500 ML)
Amber tint. Hops dominate in the otherwise strongly malted nose. More toasted notes appear in the mouth with a mildy bitter aftertaste of good length. This is brewed under license by “Les 2 Frères” in Terrebonne, a good source of strongly flavoured beers. (GBQc)
CHARLES HENRI INDIA PALE ALE, QUEBEC ($4/500 ML)
Dark yellow with amber tint. Heavily malted nose with aromas of salted dark caramel and spices. Full bodied, intense taste of torrefied malt and hops. There is a nice bitterness in the aftertaste. A creation of “Les 2 Frères” microbrewery. (GBQc)
UNIBROUE ÉPHÉMÈRE ALE, QUEBEC ($10.99/6-PACK)
This fruit-flavoured wheat beer is refermented in the bottle; its yellowish/ light brown colour has the characteristic haziness. Aromas of yeasts, apricot, pear show up first followed by an intriguing ripe banana note as it warms up in the glass. Easy to drink, it has just enough acidity to keep it refreshing. Overall a light and fruity beer. (GBQc)
SPIRITS TAG NO 5 DOUBLE ESPRESSO VODKA, ONTARIO ($26)
The Maverick Distillery in Oakville flavours this gluten-free, non-GMO-cornbased “all natural” vodka with espresso for a smooth and luxurious spirit enjoyed on its own or as an add-on for hot coffee drinks. It has a smoky, rich nose of
roasted coffee beans, vanilla and spice. There is ample sweetness on the palate to balance out the heat (35% ABV) and add lift to the espresso flavours. (RV)
CANADIAN CLUB 100% RYE, ONTARIO ($27.95)
CC’s incredibly affordable all-rye whisky claimed the title of Sippin’ Whisky of the Year at the 6th annual Canadian Whisky Awards held in Victoria, BC in January. A light and super-fruity nose of pear drops and currant jelly precedes flavours of dark chocolate and candied cherries with contributions from spice-rack staples like clove and aniseed. (SP)
DOMAINE PINNACLE MICRODISTILLERY UNGAVA DRY GIN, QUEBEC ($35.25)
Intriguing bright yellow colour with green reflections. Enticing nose, herbal, spicy with aromas of juniper, crushed fir needles and wild flowers. Very smooth palate with a nice contrast between the strong conifer scent and the delicate flowery notes. Intense finish, quite long. Made using a unique mix of wild herbs including nordic juniper, wild rose hips, cloudberry, crowberry and Labrador tea. Ungava is the land of the Inuit people in northern Québec where the herbs come from. Quite original. (GBQc)
COURVOISIER CONNOISSEUR COLLECTION AGED 12 YEARS COGNAC, FRANCE ($90)
A special bottling that sees oak for 12 years. The nose shows sweet vanilla, oak-inspired spices, caramel, toffee, dried fruits and subtle peat smoke. It’s like velvet on the palate, so smooth and rich with smoky/creamy dried fruits, toasted vanilla and toffee flavours that linger on the finish. (RV)
DOMAINE DE GRAND PRÉ POMME D’OR APPLE CREAM LIQUEUR, NOVA SCOTIA ($25)
Made from Nova Scotia-grown Annapolis Valley apples combined with light vanilla cream, this seductive liqueur has a café au lait appearance with enticing spicy apple and caramel aromas. Creamy rich white chocolate, caramel and spicy apple flavours culminate in a smooth finish with a pleasant sensation of warming alcohol. (SW) JULY/AUGUST 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 63
DAVINE BY GURVINDER BHATIA
BUILDING OUR COMMUNITY Wine festivals serve many purposes. They help to expose and educate consumers about wine. They play significant roles in raising money for hundreds of charitable and community organizations, and they can provide invaluable learning experiences for those in the industry. An often-overlooked aspect of many wine festivals is their ability to build, develop and grow a region’s wine community. The Vancouver International Wine Festival is certainly a model for other festivals to closely examine in this respect. From its humble beginnings in 1979, the Vancouver International Wine Festival has grown to become one of the world’s most respected wine events. I spent a week in Vancouver as a panelist for a number of seminars, attending tastings and generally getting a sense of the city’s wine culture. The festival’s numbers are impressive: 155 wineries from 14 countries pouring 1,470 wines at 55 events to 25,000 wine-loving attendees. But what struck me most about the Vancouver International Wine Festival is how it brings the city’s wine community together. 64 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
Hundreds of servers, managers, sommeliers, chefs and wine retailers paid to attend seminars and tastings open only to those working in the wine and hospitality industry. Seminar topics ranged from those focusing on Italy (the festival’s feature country) to highlighting wines that should receive greater attention. Of note, all the seminars ($5090 each) sold out almost immediately (many of them with over 80 attendees and one in particular with close to 160), a testament to the value the trade in Vancouver places on wine education. It is unfortunate that trade in many cities have an expectation that they should be able to attend all seminars, tastings and events for free, thereby devaluing the very industry of which they are a part. There were also informal off-theschedule educational industry gather-
ings. Ian d’Agata (VinItaly International’s scientific advisor and Decanter contributing editor), considered by many to be the world’s leading authority on Italian wine, attended the festival and led several seminars on indigenous grape varieties. D’Agata also covers the Canadian wine industry for Vinous. An informal tasting of Canadian wines with some of the city’s top sommeliers was arranged for d’Agata by Vancouver-based wine writer, educator and VinItaly International Academy Italian wine expert Michaela Morris. Numerous other informal gatherings took place over the course of the week. It was the Celebrating Excellence Awards, though, that truly exemplified the significance placed on building the region’s wine culture. Hundreds gathered on a Friday afternoon to recognize, among others, the Sommelier of the Year PHOTO: CHRISTINE MCAVOY
(Alistair Veen of Tap), Spirited Industry Professional Award (Norman Gladstone of International Cellars) and the Wine Program Excellence Awards. The objective of the wine program awards is to reward restaurateurs who make the effort to go beyond just accumulating a list of great wines. It is about creating an experience for the diners. Of course, this involves selecting wines that have an affinity for the restaurant’s food and having knowledgeable staff that have the ability to convey information to each diner’s comfort level. The wine program awards are not limited to entries from BC, and several restaurants from outside the province entered. Frankly, I’m not sure why any restaurant that possesses a decent wine program would not enter. It’s potentially great exposure and at the very least, it would give an indication of how the restaurant’s wine program compared with its peers and how it needs to improve. PLATINUM WINE PROGRAM AWARD WINNERS WERE: Blue Water Café & Raw Bar (Vancouver) Chambar (Vancouver) Gotham Steakhouse & Bar (Vancouver) Hawksworth (Vancouver) Vij’s (Vancouver) Cilantro (Calgary) Divino Wine & Cheese Bistro (Calgary) The Lake House (Calgary) During the awards luncheon, I wondered about the restaurant wine culture throughout cities in western Canada. Calgary may have some exceptions, but most cities still have a significant amount of work to do to evolve their industry’s wine culture. Part of the issue may be an absence of true working sommeliers. A true somm (the term gets misused and abused too often) works in a restaurant and his/ her job is dedicated to the wine program.
They are not serving food and bussing tables. And while having a somm in and of itself will not ensure a great wine program, having someone, somm or not, who is educated, knowledgeable and experienced, and whose main focus is building a quality, creative and interesting wine program, cannot be overstated. Wine and food together contribute the majority of a restaurant’s income. Restaurants have chefs that are dedicated to the food. How could they not have a professional dedicated to the wine program if it is to receive the attention it deserves? Not having one diminishes both the importance of having a quality wine program and ignores the depth of knowledge required. It then stands to reason that without professionals dedicated to wine programs, how do you build a wine community within a city’s culinary industry? Another issue is that too many restaurateurs still create their wine lists not based on quality, but instead on what’s commercially popular or which wine rep has the biggest promotional budget. The focus should be on quality and interesting wines with a sense of place, wineries that are committed to sustainable practices and how the wines actually complement the food as opposed to how many free bottles the importer will provide. And a greater emphasis needs to be placed on staff education, so that when a diner asks a question, the server’s response will be more insightful than “the Malbec sells the most.” Many restaurateurs have spent a significant amount of time, effort and resources developing and evolving their food, craft beer and cocktail programs, and it shows. Their wine programs deserve the same attention. Once they receive it, the wine industry community will also grow, evolve and come together. But it takes time, effort and commitment. Just look at Vancouver. ×
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AFTER TASTE BY TONY ASPLER
Being so widespread around the wine world, it has picked up more synonyms than a rock star at a beauty contest. Here are just some: Granaccia, Lladoner, Tinto, Tinta, Carignan Rosso, Carignane Rousse, Tinto Arogonese, Uva di Spagna, Sans Pareil, Tinto Menudo, Tinta Mencida, Tintilo de Rota, Roussillon, Roussillon Tinto Rouvaillard, Cannonau, Alicante, Rivesaltes and Redondal. Being a hot-weather grape, it accumulates a lot of sugar, which in turn produces a high-alcohol wine. Expect spicy, red berry notes in its flavour profile with a suggestion of white pepper. It tends to show a tawny hue at the rim as it ages — as a result of oxidation — developing tar or leather notes. That’s why it’s generally blended with Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault in southern France and Tempranillo in Spain. Because of its propensity to deliver high sugar levels, Grenache is used extensively in the production of fortified red wines such as Banyuls, the vins doux naturel wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon and Australia’s Tawny (“port”). Getting back to that pre-Grenaches du Monde tasting, our group was presented with 10 wines. Here are my top choices:
BY ANY OTHER NAME EVERY GRAPE HAS ITS DAY, IT SEEMS. Each major variety
is honoured somewhere in the world with a festival or a competition. The best known on this continent is Oregon’s annual International Pinot Noir Celebration in McMinnville. In Ontario, we have the annual International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration for three days in July, known punningly by its acronym, I4C. The original idea for Ontario winemakers was to spotlight Riesling, but that variety had already been bagged by Chateau Ste Michelle in Washington State. They call their event Riesling Rendezvous. Earlier this year, I tasted a slew of wines in Toronto made from the Grenache grape as a prelude to a competition called Grenaches du Monde, which was held in a monastery in Zaragoza, Spain on February 5th. The competition was open to all wines made from Grenache and its synonyms, Garnacha, Garnatxa and Cannonau. Some 600 wines from eight countries were entered in this year’s competition. Bon Appétit magazine called Grenache “The best grape you’ve never heard of,” although it’s the secondmost widely planted variety in the world. But you won’t find it in Canada as the variety is a late ripener and requires hot, dry growing conditions. That’s why its natural habitat is Spain (where they call it Garnacha), Sardinia (Cannonau), California’s San Joaquin Valley and Australia. Barossa and McLaren Vale winemakers usually blend Grenache with Shiraz and Mourvèdre. They label this blend familiarly as GSM. Perhaps Grenache is best known in the south of France, where it’s a major component of Côtes du Rhône and Châteauneuf-du-Pape (usually 80 percent of the blend, although Château Rayas famously makes their Châteauneuf from 100 percent Grenache). Of course, Grenache plays a major role in the rosés of Provence and the southern Rhône. 66 × @QUENCH_MAG × LIVING LOCAL ISSUE
93 BODEGAS RUBERTE TRESOR GARNACHA 2013, CAMPO DE BORJA, SPAIN Dense purple-black colour. Cedary, black cherry nose. Full-bodied, elegant, rich blueberry flavour; beautifully balanced and seamless.
92 VIEUX TELEGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE 2011, LA CRAU, FRANCE Mature ruby colour; dry, savoury nose of dried plums, liquorice and pencil lead. Full-bodied, dry, elegant and rich. Beautifully balanced with a bitter chocolate finish. 60% Grenache.
92 BODEGAS ALTO MONCAYO 2011, CAMPO DE BORJA, SPAIN Dense purple-black colour; spicy, strawberry and raspberry nose carried on oak notes. Full-bodied, vanilla oak and well extracted red and black fruit flavours. Fleshy and fruit-driven but finishes firmly. 16% alcohol.
90 HENSCHKE JOHANN’S GARDEN 2013, AUSTRALIA Dense purple colour; smoky-herbal, blueberry nose. Full-bodied, dry, blueberry flavour. Firmly structured, spicy with lively acidity. 60% Grenache with Shiraz and Mourvèdre.
90 PAGOS DEL MONCAYO PDM GARNACHA 2013, CAMPO DE BORJA, SPAIN Dense purple-black colour; smoky, herbal, pencil-lead nose with spicy oak. Elegant black fruits and black olive nose. Full-bodied and juicy but finishes dry and firm. × ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM
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