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OKANAGAN CRUSH PAD IN FOLDER Discover organic wines that tell the story of our land. Home of Haywire and Narrative wines.
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JULY/AUGUST 2018 16 WHY WINE AWARDS MATTER MICHAELA MORRIS
WHAT (OR WHO) HOLDS THE MOST SWAY WHEN IT COMES TO CONSUMERS’ WINE CHOICES.
22 SYRAH IS THE NAME OF THE GAME KONRAD EJBICH
A SWEEPING ONTARIO SYRAH TASTING. TURNS OUT, THIS OVERLOOKED VARIETY CAN PRODUCE PROFOUNDLY TASTY WINE, EVEN IN POORTO-MIDDLING VINTAGES ... PROVIDED IT SURVIVES OUR HARSHEST WINTERS.
37 PILLARS OF THE COMMUNITY
18 | IT’S IN THE ART OF ASSEMBLAGE
JORDAN ST. JOHN
ANDRE PROULX
MICROBREWERIES ARE POPPING UP ALL OVER RURAL CANADA. HERE ARE 3 TO GET YOU STARTED.
Blends are making waves across Canada.
30 | THE KEY TO SUCCESS TIM PAWSEY Why (for now) Syrah is winning BC’s Red Wine Sweepstakes.
35 | THE GRAND UNIFIER MICHAEL PINKUS You know the world is pulling for you when you get your very own hashtag #GoGamayGo.
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BACK OF THE BOOK 40 | THE HERB GARDEN NANCY JOHNSON I don’t have much of a green thumb. When has that ever stopped me?
EDITOR’S NOTE
42 | BUYING GUIDE The best wine, beer and spirits from around the world, critiqued by our expert tasting panel.
64 | A SENSE OF PLACE GURVINDER BHATIA Barolo can sometimes be a confusing place to navigate but it’s truly worth it.
66 | IT’S JUST NATURAL TONY ASPLER A note to all winemakers: it’s time to STOP making natural wine.
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AS I WRITE THIS, THE SUPREME COURT CASE AGAINST GERARD COMEAU IS FRESH ON MY MIND. The New Brunswick man simply tried to
purchase some beer in Quebec in order to enjoy them back home in Tracadie, a small community about 150 kilometres north of Moncton. The Government of Canada may have won the case, but all its citizens lost. It is hard to believe but Canada is one of the only wine producing countries where locals are refused the delight of ordering local wine from outside their province. I live in Quebec where wine is king, yet the SAQ’s Canadian wine section is lacking. Why can’t I supplement my cellar with a couple of bottles direct from BC while the SAQ catches up? Why does free trade between the provinces — for what is essentially local artisanal product — need to be negotiated? The July/August issue has always been about enticing our readers to visit local wine country. You haven’t lived in Canada till you’ve felt the splash of salt air while sipping on a glass of Tidal Bay or been excited by discovering a new winery in Prince Edward County or Northern BC. We are wine lovers and that means loving every inch from sea to shining sea. Quench has always lobbied for a clear and well-defined law that will allow all Canadians to purchase locally produced wine, beers and spirits, and have them shipped directly to them, no matter which province they live in. By the time this is published, we will be one step closer to the progressive cannabis-forward agenda Justin Trudeau’s Liberal Government has set out, yet our laws governing local wine live in the past. We need access to our producers. We can’t place all the blame on the provincial or federal governments. If we don’t stand up and make demands, then how can things truly change? Make a commitment to purchasing more wine from your local wineries. Find those Canadian wineries that deliver cross-province. Support them and show the liquor boards exactly what we, as wine lovers, want. We need to scream from the rooftops, “I’m thirsty as hell and I won’t take it anymore.”
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GRAND PRE NOVA SCOTIA IN FOLDER TIDAL BAY NOVA SCOTIA TERROIR
Try a bottle tonight.
The perfect complement to Nova Scotia seafood or to share with friends.
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CHRISTINE SISMONDO IMAGE: JESSICA BLAINE SMITH
A National Magazine award-winning writer, Christine Sismondo is Quench Magazine’s Lazy Mixologist columnist, as well as a regular contributor to The Globe and Mail, The Toronto Star and Maclean’s. She is also the author of Mondo Cocktail: A Shaken and Stirred History, a history of cocktails and spirits and America Walks into a Bar: A Spirited History of Taverns and Saloons, Speakeasies and Grog Shops, a book in which she tries to change the way the world looks at their local. WHAT CANADIAN WINE OR STYLE DO YOU COVET MOST?
I drank a lot of great pink bubbly in BC last year at the Vancouver International Wine Fest and I wish I could get it here!
Quench, Food and Drink Magazine, (founded in 1972) is a registered trademark of Kylix Media and is published 8 times a year: (February/ March, April, May/June, July/August, September, October, November, December/January).
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CONTRIBUTORS
Jordan St. John is an author, educator and blogger on the subject of beer. Based out of Toronto, he frequently travels in order to explore what beverages the world has to offer. WHAT CANADIAN BEER OR STYLE DO YOU COVET MOST?
It has to be wet hop beers in the autumn. It’s an exciting time for a country with many different terroirs and an expanding number of hop yards. Every year there are flavours that no one has ever tasted, and I like being amongst the first.
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JULY/AUGUST 2018 7
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ONTARIO AWARDS ER
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O WINE IN FOLD-
UMAMI LISA HOEKSTRA
A LIQUID ARCHITECT MIKKEL BORG BJERGSØ IS A PHANTOM.
A phantom brewer that is. While he owns and operates his Copenhagen-based Mikkeller Brewery, he spends most of the year developing craft beer recipes and travelling the world to bring them into existence. Bjergsø has a different way of looking at it: “I don’t often use terms about what I do, but in Europe we have started talking about beer architects. That describes it pretty well.” Before he was changing the landscape of craft beer, he and his twin Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø studied at Kansas State University. He majored in chemistry and physics, which he then went on to teach. The twins and their friends created a beer-appreciation group in college; this would inspire the two to go on to open their own beer store — Ølbutikken — when they were back in Copenhagen. While his brother handled the storefront, Bjergsø brewed the beers. “I decided to start brewing as I thought the beer world was lacking a more experimental and bold process,” he explains. His chemistry and physics background helped with the learning curve. “Knowing the chemical processes in brewing helps me understand the ingredients more. Also, the desire to educate people shines through in a lot of my beers, the single hop series being an example.” Eventually, the twins went their separate ways. Bjergsø launched the Mikkeller brand and cultivated his beer architect status. He actively chose to stay away from the fixed brewery format. “I did not want to invest a lot of money and be dependent on sales,” he explains. “I wanted the freedom to concentrate on the quality of the beer. I think the approach was perfect and today there are many similar brewers in the world.” Brewing is a discourse for Bjergsø. His recipes are answers to some interesting questions — what would happen if you added popcorn or Sichuan peppercorns? Which ingredient would give the beer a nice layer of umami? “I get inspired by a lot of things. Flavours, ingredients, music and moods. Meeting with chefs, coffee roasters, sommeliers and mixologists,” Bjergsø says. His goal is to “make the best possible beer and often to try out new things and new ways of doing things. It’s to experiment, but the experiment never comes before the quality of the product.” 10 @ QUENCH_MAG
To find these answers, he outsources to breweries around the world. “I work a lot with a brewery in Belgium called De Proef, Lervig in Norway, a few other smaller places in Europe and our own brewery in San Diego,” he mentions. “I always look to work with people that can give me something back. I bring knowledge to them and they challenge me the other way. I love that.” The process from concept to final product is not any different for Bjergsø than when he works at his place in Copenhagen. “I do the recipes,” he explains. “Communicate a lot with my brewers (or the brewers in the brewery we use) about processes, and they take care of everything.” Today, Bjergsø exports to 40 different countries, has Mikkeller branded locations across the world and is internationally recognized as one of the most innovative and cutting-edge brewers in the world. “My goal is to have as many people drink craft beer as possible and I am working hard every day to achieve that.” I asked him for his favourite beer of all time: “It’s impossible to say, but I’ve loved Belgium Lambics for many years, and enjoy the best New England Style IPAs these days. But nothing beats a great German Lager.” ×
LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO
BERRY TASTY INDEED Pound for pound, no single fruit has more health claims connected to it than the blueberry. Rich in anthocyanin, a flavonoid molecule with antioxidant properties, those little blue guys have been touted as a way to lose weight, prevent cancer, cure heart disease and high blood pressure, and even stave off osteoporosis. Truth be told, there’s no real science backing up any of that. No research has ever confirmed that the antioxidants stay active after we eat the berries. But since they’re so delicious, it’s probably best to err on the side of caution. Where better to find out how to max-out our intake during blueberry season than Newfoundland’s Fogo Island? On the Atlantic coast, wild, low-brush blueberries are not only considered a health tonic but practically a way of life to many. They’re in baked goods, sauces and, most important for the lazy mixologist, tasty berry cocktails, which are in season at the Fogo Island Inn every summer. “Every season, I’m reminded of when I moved here a few years ago,” recalls Sandy Crawford, bar manager at Fogo Island Inn. “It was fall, the start of my wife’s teaching job, and, pretty much every evening, we went for a walk to go blueberry picking. They’re plentiful here in Newfoundland and really resilient, growing under bushes and near rocks. They sure don’t need a lot of tender loving care.” Newfoundland blueberries are probably the most famous berries from the province and some claim them as the best in the world. They used to be an important agricultural export, but now they’re (also) important as a tourist draw, with berry-picking excursions and the weekend-long Brigus Blueberry Festival (mid-August), marked with plenty of blueberry “buckle,” “duff” and “grunt” (essentially, cake, pudding and biscuits). × VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/MIXED/ FOR MORE DRINK RECIPES
Fogo Island Inn celebrates blueberry season with a threeday “Berry Wild Time” itinerary that sees visitors picking wild berries along the Lion’s Den Trail, where smart foragers can stumble upon a wide range of indigenous rare berries, including bakeapples, bearberries, crackerberries and cloudberries. After a hard day foraging, guests relax in the bar area to learn about berry cocktails and infusions from the bar staff. Crawford says the local berries are on the fat side and have a robust, occasionally earthy flavour that you really want to let shine. As such, he doesn’t recommend adding too many complicated ingredients to the cocktail — the simpler, the better. “The taste of the berry itself is beautiful and we wanted to show that off, so we used a Newfoundland vodka and two other spirits,” Crawford says, referring to his Blue Lion’s Den, the cocktail recipe he shared with us. “So it turns out this really beautiful reddish-purple colour.”
BLUE LION’S DEN
1 1/2 1/2 3
oz Iceberg Vodka oz St Germain oz Campari oz unsweetened pure blueberry juice
Add all ingredients to an ice-filled cocktail shaker tin and shake for 20 seconds. Strain into a Collins glass filled with fresh ice and garnish with fresh blueberries. If you can’t get fresh, wild blueberries, Crawford says bottled blueberry juice, now fairly widely-available, will work just fine. × JULY/AUGUST 2018 11
PREP KITCHEN
ASIAGO
This louscious, melty cheese is a must in any gourmet’s kitchen. You can usually find it in two formats: pressato or fresco, which is young, smooth and firm; and d’allevo or vecchio, a Parmesan-like, dried version. If you want a stretchy melt, get your hands on the pressato.
SHRED IT UP It’s easy to reach for the mainstays of mozzarella, gruyere and cheddar when looking for a good shred. But that can get boring. So if melting is the name of the game then here are three other cheeses you should put into your shopping cart.
12 @ QUENCH_MAG
REBLOCHON
It’s not the easiest thing to grate but it’s well worth the effort. This mountian cheese has a smooth fruity, nutty flavour. Its ideal companion is potatoes, especially in a tartiflette but don’t let that stop you from experimenting. For a local alternative, look for Champfleury from Quebec.
PROVOLONE
Sliced provolone can be found in almost any grocery store. It’s the perfect addition to any cold cut sandwich. If you are looking for a flavour explosion for your next melt, seek out the piccante version. This sharper, slightly saltier, version is aged up to three years. This is a must try in a frittata or simply melted on steamed vegetables. ×
LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC
A SUMMER OF FRESHNESS Well, after that seemingly eternal winter, we are FINALLY into summer. Praise the sun! As is my custom when I enter the warmth, I usually start drinking beers that go into the cold and crisp category (with many exceptions for bright and hoppy). In fact, I’m going to be honest: by the time you read this there’s a really solid chance that I’m going to be at the cottage with Jimmy Buffett’s “Tin Cup Chalice” playing, a brisket in the smoker, and a sixer of a really good pilsner or super juicy IPA at my side. I know I’m not alone in thinking that it’s beers like that which truly make for a special day in the sun.
Because of the inevitable seasonal rise in beers on the lighter side of the colour spectrum, I thought I’d let you know about the importance of fresh beer, how to look for it, and what to avoid. What happens if you don’t drink a beer that’s fresh? You get oxidation, which is when beer is exposed to oxygen or high temperatures over time and results in a beer that literally tastes stale. Imagine someone replacing your clean and crisp pilsner with a glass of wet cardboard. Not great, right? Now, in addition to that, hoppy beers don’t do great over time either. As early as 30 days from bottling, the chemical compounds that give hops its ... well, hoppiness begin to dissipate, making for a beer that is just not great at all. Now of course, not all beers can go bad from being left on the shelf over time. Dark and high alcohol beers obviously benefit from aging, but a good rule of thumb is that if the colour is light and the alcohol percentage isn’t massive, you gotta drink it fresh and generally no more than a few months old.
Now, trying to stay on top and aware of the freshness level of your beer may sound daunting, but trust me, it’s just like checking the best before date on foods at the grocery store. In fact, it’s exactly like that! Breweries are really good about putting best before or “bottled/canned on” dates on their products. All you have to do is just pick up a bottle or can and look for the stamped-on date. I should say, however, that while that can be a great guideline, if you really want to place importance on freshness, be cautious of that date. Just because a beer CAN last for up to six months doesn’t mean it SHOULD — you’d be better off bringing the date down by a month or two and seeing how it is. Ideally though, I’d prefer the dates that show when the beer was bottled or canned. If the date is more than three or four months ago, let it go and move on. But if the beer is less than a month old, buy it. Heck, buy as many as you can hold. × JULY/AUGUST 2018 13
TBY BRIE DEMA
THE GRACE OF GREECE WHEN I THINK OF A WINE STYLE THAT COULD BE CONSIDERED “LOVE-HATE,” HIGH-ACID MINERAL-DRIVEN WHITES COME TO MIND. I’m generally in the “love” camp
— Chablis or dry German Riesling are wonderful. At their best as food wines, they can also be sipped solo on a hot day. If you enjoy wines like these, I encourage you to try the native Greek white grape Assyrtiko. Grown all over Greece, it gives the most structured and austere versions from the windswept, volcanic soil vineyards of Santorini Island. Versatile in the hands of the winemaker, it is fabulous in both unoaked and oaked styles. DOMAINE SIGALAS ASSYRTIKO 2017, SANTORINI ($28)
This wine saw only stainless steel in its production, enhancing its tart, youthful character. It is straightforward, with fresh citrus and sea breeze aromas and flavours. The hallmark racy acidity is felt but not too dominating. Makes me crave oysters and sunshine. GAIA WILD FERMENT ASSYRTIKO 2017, SANTORINI ($40)
Fermented by wild yeasts, using both concrete vats and French oak barrique, this Assyrtiko has layers of complexity. There is a saline tangy character (a typical flavour of the Santorini versions), with just enough openness and warmth from the oak. Texture and acid backbone for days. Though it is tasty now, it would be fun to let this one age for 3 to 5 years further. ×
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BON VIVANT PETER ROCKWELL
ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM
Why do so many grapes have Pinot in their names — and if I like one, will I like them all? Not to get all X-Men on ya, but … they’re all mutants and Pinot is the Wolverine of the bunch. You see, the vine has been around for centuries, and over time hundreds of variations have sprung up in the wine world. Each has exchanged a piece of the original DNA as an identifier that has manipulated its personality (best reflected in each grape’s hue) into something different. Does that mean you’ll dig them all? Ah, maybe. Though they all may share the same DNA profile, Pinot grapes come in a wide variety of colours and flavours. It’d be like assuming that if you’re into Johnny Cash, you’re going get your groove on listening to the stylings of Johnny Rotten. But I digress. Let’s start with a round of definition. In French, Pinot translates to pine. As they hang, the grapes cluster together with a tubby top and taper their way down to a slimmer bottom. Visually they resemble, you guessed it, a pinecone. It’s the one trait all the variations share. The Noir sport (a fancy term for mutation) is arguably the most revered of the Pinot family (on the red side at least). Its × ASK YOUR QUESTIONS AT BONVIVANT@QUENCH.ME
celebrity status, however, doesn’t mean it got the berry rolling by giving birth to all the rest. When it comes to Pinot’s precise origins, the only thing scientists can agree on is that pinecone-like cluster thing. What it may lack in lineage placement, Noir more than makes up for in attitude. It’s not just the pickiest Pinot, when it comes to taking root it’s one of the most finickiest grapes growing. While nowhere near as well-known as Noir, Pinot Meunier gets to share the spotlight in France’s Champagne where they both help make much of the region’s best bubblies. Meunier does get its name on some labels, especially in some New World countries who’ve recently discovered its solo charms. On the white side, Grigio is hands down the most popular Pinot. Having rocketed to fame out of Italy’s Veneto region at the twilight of the last century, Grigio is now grown just about everywhere, including France and New Zealand where it goes by Gris (which refers to its grey colour). Out on the Pinot fringes is Blanc. Once more common, its current strongholds are northern France, Italy, Germany, Canada and a few countries in Eastern Europe. Give one a try, give all the mutations a try. If you like one, don’t stay mute — tell your friends. × JULY/AUGUST 2018 15
WHY WINE AWARDS MATTER by Michaela Morris
Humans are a little bit like magpies. We’re attracted to bright shiny objects — a sparkling silver earring, the flash of a diamond ring or perhaps a gold medal shimmering on a bottle of wine. Okay, so the latter might be up for debate.
In this rapidly changing world, it’s hard to keep track of what, or who, holds the most sway when it comes to consumers’ wine choices. With the rise of bloggers, celebrity tasters, Instagram and the like, how relevant are wine competitions and their corresponding awards? As someone who judges at a variety of competitions, I question if the time I spend swirling, swishing, spitting and debating is all for naught. Whatever their influence, wine competitions are a growing concern. “They’re popping up all over the place,” claims Barbara Philip, Master of Wine. She judges at some of the most prestigious competitions, such as the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) and the TEXSOM International Wine Awards, as well as at domestic shows like the British 16 @ QUENCH_MAG
Columbia Wine Awards and the Judgement of British Columbia. These represent just a fraction of what is out there, with competitions coming in all shapes and sizes. Given the sheer number around the globe, “it’s not that difficult for a winery to get a bunch of awards,’ points out Gurvinder Bhatia, wine editor for Quench, who is equally active on the international judging scene. Whether all of these wine competitions are credible is another story and one directly related to the aptitude of the judges as well as the quality of wine entered. For instance, DWWA brings in more than 200 specialist judges, many with credentials like Master of Wine or Master Sommelier. Such a competition generally attracts top-quality producers who are keen to have highly regarded tasters assess
their wines. However, award shows that fail to gather a good average standard of wine still have to select winners, meaning that gold medal winner might simply be the best of a mediocre bunch. “While some people know the difference between the various wine awards, the majority don’t,” says Philip. It is usually just the colour of the medal or the score that lures them in. The judging process also contributes to the validity of the awards, and it varies greatly. Typically, wines are tasted blind so that judges are not influenced by labels. Judges usually work in teams of three or four, though I have been on panels with as many as eight members. Each judge gives their own mark and the final score is an average. “It’s more valuable than an individual score because you have the benefit of several experts agreeing on an evalua-
tion,” asserts Philip. This approach keeps everyone in check and also helps ensure that an elegant, discreet wine isn’t missed, or conversely that an obvious wine isn’t overvalued simply because of its overt personality. “Our biggest fear is that a great wine will slip by,” Philip shares. Australia, which is notorious for the number of shows it hosts, is recognized for its particularly rigorous standards. Judges are well vetted then put to the test. They may receive the same wine blind at random to check if they award a similar score both times. “You need to prove over time that you are consistent,” says Quebec-based journalist Michelle Bouffard, who has judged at a number of competitions in Australia, including the McLaren Vale Show and the Sydney Royal Wine Show. Nevertheless, for Bhatia, the format of many competitions is flawed. As wines are often tasted only once by a single panel, he argues that “this doesn’t always allow the best wines the opportunity to rise to the top.” However, having a panel of qualified and consistent tasters should alleviate this worry. More concerning is his suggestion that less reputable shows might override the blind-tasting results based on the reputation of certain wineries. One of the most common criticisms is the number of awards given out. In a sort of response, Bhatia organized his own competition of Canadian wines in conjunction with the Northern Lands festival in Edmonton. “We only awarded ‘best in category’ and one runner-up so that receiving an award was significant,” he explains. By contrast, many shows give out multiple gold medals as well as prizes for silver and bronze. Collectively, these awards often end up encompassing a large percentage of the wines entered in the competition. Ultimately, the significance of an award comes down to the individual standards of each competition. However, I’d be willing to bet that the silvers and bronzes influence purchasing less for the more expensive wines. In fact, a recent study published in 2017 by the Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services showed exactly that. It also addressed the complexity of the issue, demonstrating that the influence of wine awards depends on the
knowledgeability of the purchaser. “Engaged consumers might be more inclined to follow celebrity tasters, such as James Suckling, or rely on wine apps like Vivino,” suggests Bouffard. “Overall, I believe wine competitions play a very small part in the purchasing decisions of consumers,” asserts Bhatia, who has been buying wine for boutique stores in Edmonton for over 25 years. Nevertheless, Philip sees them as helpful. As the category manager for Wines of Europe at British Columbia Liquor Stores, she is in charge of deciding which wines will end up in almost 200 stores across the province. “Consumers need to weed their way through the wines somehow because there isn’t always a product consultant to ask,” she explains. “Both point scores and medals help.” As Philip is able to taste wines before listing them, she doesn’t rely on either point scores or medals to make her decision. However, she does give credence to wellknown competitions like DWWA and the International Wine Challenge (IWC). “I know that sticker on the bottle is going to draw consumers,” she continues. “If I think a wine is interesting, and it has a platinum or gold, I would consider it over the wine that doesn’t have an award.” GIVEN THE GROWING NUMBER OF COMPETITIONS, WINERIES CLEARLY MUST SEE SOME BENEFIT IF THEY ARE WILLING TO PAY THE FEE TO ENTER. In Australia, wine consumers take
their wine competitions as seriously as the organizers and judges do. “If you win a medal, the wine sells out,” declares Bouffard. “This is why wineries participate.” On a global scale, Jim Robertson, Global Brand Ambassador for Stoneleigh, claims that “a Decanter award is leverageable on a commercial basis.” While he can usually make it through the year with supplies of Stoneleigh’s Wild Valley Sauvignon Blanc, he ran out of the 2016 within just five and half months after the wine received a gold. For wineries from lesser-known regions, the advantages of winning a medal at an international wine competition may be even further reaching. “Most people don’t know where Uruguay is, let alone that we make wine,” says María Marisol, Brand Ambassador for Uruguay’s Garzón.
“Global recognition is not just important for a winery but also for a country.” Nikki Callaway, winemaker at Quails’ Gate, echoes Marisol’s sentiments, referring to the exposure the DWWA gives to the British Columbia wine industry. Even though the winery produces little of their Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay and has no problem selling out of it, they entered and received a gold medal for the 2013. “It makes us realize that we are heading in the right direction,” Callaway declares. “How else do I know if our wine will stand up on the world stage?” Even less prominent shows can offer value. Some require the judges take notes on each wine and the feedback is sent to the winery. The comments are meant to be constructive, explaining to a producer why they may have received an award or not. Wine competitions have had a huge impact on the Australian wine industry as a whole. “Previously, a lot of wines were dirty or faulty,” Bouffard recounts. “It helped encourage producers to change the way they were making wine.” As for the judges, they actually earn very little for their efforts. Generally wine competitions don’t pay anything beyond a modest per diem at best. So why do top professionals bother participating? The camaraderie is high on most judges’ list. “I love being a part of the community and meeting, tasting with, learning and discussing with my international colleagues from around the world,” says Bhatia. Philip agrees, adding “I always learn something because the tastings are blind.” For Bouffard, the educational opportunity is equally a draw, especially competitions that focus on a single area. “You come away understanding what is happening in that particular region.” In the end, the extent to which wine awards directly influence sales may be debatable and they may even be regarded with some skepticism. Nevertheless, testimonials from winning wineries suggest that they do have an impact. There are also a ton of talented palates working behind the scenes to keep standards high at the most reputable wine shows. If, as some suggest, wine competitions have contributed to improvements in quality, well, that is extremely relevant to all of us who like to drink good wine. × JULY/AUGUST 2018 17
IT’S IN THE ART OF ASSEMBLAGE by Andre Proulx THESE DAYS I FEEL LIKE I HAVE BEEN SPENDING SO MUCH TIME PAYING ATTENTION TO HIGH-END PINOT NOIR AND CHARDONNAY FROM NIAGARA THAT I HAVE FORGOTTEN ABOUT MY FIRST LOVE. But recently I have been tasting
through wines made from blends of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and been deeply moved, and satisfied, by what I found in the glass. While I have always found Bordeaux fascinating, I don’t think I have ever really fallen completely in love with wines from this region. Many of them are fussy and need a long time in a decanter before they are ready to give up their true aromas and flavours. Many of them are also crazy expensive … and out of reach for the average consumer. In effect, Bordeaux has become the high-maintenance friend we don’t invite to the party anymore. Can you really blame anyone for ignoring this Premier Cru region in 2018? Especially given that you can grab outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon from California for around 20 dollars. And how about Malbec from South America? Of course, I realize that by looking at these examples, we’re not talking about the skill of assemblage. My comments about Bordeaux aside, I know Canada makes great wines from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. In recent years, we have been seeing Malbec and Petit Verdot making appearances in the vineyards of Ontario. Trius Red has long been a staple in my home and (to keep it simple) it’s a delicious wine. It turns out you don’t need to blast these grapes with intense California sunshine to unlock their delicious flavours. On a trip to Niagara in December 2017, I found myself staring into a glass of 2015 Locked and Loaded from Rosewood and asking, “Why the hell am I not drinking more of this?” What I was looking at was a rich, fruity and concentrated wine that offered something you could serve next to roast beef. At 20 dollars a bottle, this wine was offering so much — it was immediately accessible and fruity. There was nice depth and structure in the glass. You could stock up on a few bottles and save them for a rainy day in three or five years, or maybe more. A few months later, on yet another trip, I was sitting in the tasting room at Fielding Estates, having another experience where I was asking myself the same question. It was clear that I hadn’t learned anything. In my glass was the 2016 Rockpile Red, a beautiful, fruity wine made from 50 percent Cabernet Franc and 50 percent Merlot. Its 25-dollar price tag surprised me. This wine is not delicate, but it’s also not brooding and heavy. It’s fruity and smoky, with very soft tannins. Another bottle that you can open in its youth without guilt (or a decanter) — or, with a little patience and restraint, you could squirrel away a few bottles for a rainy day. 18 @ QUENCH_MAG
At this point, it was clear to me that I had forgotten about some of the finest wines in the province. If I look back at the point where I fell in love with Ontario wine, I remember digging into bottles of 2004 Showcase Cabernet Sauvignon from Hillebrand (Trius). Many Ontario wineries, such as Stratus, Two Sisters, Trius and Megalomaniac, routinely charge north of 40 or even 50 dollars for their reserve bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, regardless of the growing conditions. I was worried that my love of Ontario Cabernet/Merlot might be in jeopardy and moving into the same category as Bordeaux. So, after my experiences at Fielding and Rosewood, I needed to see if their wines were the exception or the rule. I can’t really say that I was surprised by my findings, but I was thrilled to discover a bevy of new bottles that you will find in my house with renewed regularity. CREEKSIDE CABERNET/MERLOT 2016 ($15)
Your quintessential barbecue wine. It’s unpretentious and straightup easy to drink. The aromas and flavours are blackberry and cassis, caressed by a nice vanilla note. The tannins are very soft, resulting in easy drinking. Match this wine to burgers, steak, pizza or pasta with tomato-based sauces. FROGPOND FARM ORGANIC CABERNET/MERLOT 2012 ($24)
A little rough around the edges but ready to drink now if you like a wine that shows a bit of age. The aromas are blueberry and raspberry, which are starting to dry out. There is also a slightly funky note that adds to the interest of this bottle. On the palate, the drying fruit is met with a nice cocoa note. There is a hint of bell pepper that pokes through on the finish, reminding you that the Cabernet in this bottle includes Franc. PILLITTERI ESTATES CABERNET/MERLOT 2015 ($17)
It may be a little unfair to suggest drinking this bottle right now, since it may have some aging potential, but it checks too many boxes to be locked up. The aromas and flavours have a nice vanilla note layered over cherry and strawberry. There is a hint of red pepper on the finish of this wine, but it’s satisfying and well integrated under all the ripe fruit flavours. REIF ESTATE CABERNET/MERLOT 2016 ($15)
It’s a nice reminder that Cab Merlot doesn’t need to be big and bold. You will find a nice vanilla note that embraces raspberry and cherry on the nose and on the palate. The tannins are soft and this wine is gulpable now. Put this easy-drinking wine on the table next to pizza or a burger.
THE FOREIGN AFFAIR CONSPIRACY 2015 ($18)
A blend of 54% Cabernet Franc, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Merlot. This wine isn’t quite Bordelais at heart but rather a marriage between Niagara and Veneto. It’s made in a ripasso style, helping to pump up the flavours in this bottle. The fruit here moves into stewed with concentrated raspberry, blackberry and plum. There is also a cocoa note that pokes through on the finish. The tannins are soft and plush — this wine is ready to drink now. 13TH STREET CABERNET/MERLOT 2016 ($20)
The summer of 2016 is firmly in the rear-view mirror, and it feels like we have suffered from the weather ever since. Do not despair: some of that summer has been captured in this bottle. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot brings raspberry, strawberry and ripe red cherry to the nose and the palate. This wine is definitely driven by fruit flavours but they are met with cedar and cocoa notes as you get deeper into the glass and bottle. FIELDING ESTATE WINERY ROCKPILE RED 2016 ($25)
A blend of 50% Cabernet Franc and 50% Merlot. I want to call this wine “almost” full-bodied since there is some nice restraint here. The fruit is rich and concentrated with raspberry, strawberry, cherry and cassis. On the palate, a nice cocoa note opens up and is met with silky tannins. This wine is approachable and easy drinking from the onset, but it could easily develop nicely in the cellar for a decade, maybe longer. That being said, it would be a shame to let the vibrant fruit dry out as this wine is practically begging to be enjoyed in its youth.
KACABA WINEMAKER JOHN TUMMON
ROSEWOOD ESTATES WINERY LOCKED AND LOADED RED 2016 ($20)
The blend from this vintage is 34% Merlot, 27% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Franc, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot. Given that 2016 was an unusually hot and dry summer, it’s remarkable the amount of restraint this bottle contains. The aromas are plum, cassis, blackberry and raspberry, with a hint of meatiness. On the palate, it is immediately smooth and soft — the texture is the real story behind this wine. The fruit on the palate is rich and juicy, but not cooked. The flavours match the nose but a strong blueberry note gets added to the party. In spite of how immediately approachable this wine is, it definitely has the ability to evolve nicely in a cellar for 5 to 7 years. HENRY OF PELHAM ESTATE CABERNET/MERLOT 2012 ($25)
ROSEWOOD ESTATES WINERY LOCKED AND LOADED RED 2015 ($20)
A blend of 43% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc and 11% Malbec. This wine is the little brother of Rosewood’s Lock, Stock and Barrel, but there is nothing little about this wine. Aromas of vanilla, smoke, raspberry, blackberry and blackcurrant climb out of the glass with nice intensity. The flavours match the nose and the tannins are velvet smooth and approachable now. That said, if you decide to stow a few bottles away for 5–7 years, this wine should cellar with ease. The smoky note has me thinking of opening a bottle as a reward for sitting next to a brisket for a 12-hour smoke.
I’m sure that you could hold onto a few bottles of this wine and enjoy them in a few years … but, if you’re like me, you’ll want to unlock the fruit flavours while they are young and vibrant. Expect rich cherry and strawberry on the nose, with the palate pushing into blackberry and currant. A little more depth brings a cocoa and wood-smoke note to the glass. Definitely a bottle I would expect to serve next to a medium-rare steak fresh off the grill. TRIUS RED 2015 ($25)
This wine continues to be a benchmark for Bordeaux varietals in Ontario. It offers fantastic value and continues to be a staple for JULY/AUGUST 2018 19
ROSEWOOD ESTATE’S RYAN CORRIGAN
building a cellar. The nose on this bottle offers up raspberry and blackberry, with a nice cocoa note. The flavours match the nose with a nice smoky note on the finish. The tannins are firm but the fruit flavours still soar. An approachable wine that can be enjoyed immediately next to roasted or grilled red meats. But it will also age well in a cellar for 5 to 10 years. TRIUS RED 2016 ($25)
This bottle checks all the boxes in terms of what is possible from well-made Cabernet Merlot in Ontario. Aromas of cassis, black cherry and wood smoke. The flavours offer ripe, juicy cherry and raspberry. Going even deeper into the glass, you will find baking spice, vanilla and cocoa. Every note in this luscious wine compliments the others and, in spite of the very ripe fruit flavours, there is nice restraint and great acidity on the finish, reminding us that this is, in fact, a cool-climate wine. ROCKWAY VINEYARDS RESERVE MERITAGE 2012 ($20)
The aromas are stewed meat, wood smoke and cassis. Even though this wine has the hot 2012 summer firmly in the rear-view mirror, the fruit is still youthful and vibrant. On the palate, even more fruit reveals itself with cherry, cassis and blueberry. The tannins still grip a bit on the finish, letting you know that it won’t be a problem if you decide to hold this for another 5 years. CREEKSIDE ESTATE WINERY LAURA’S RED 2015 ($22)
Full disclosure: there is only about 9% Syrah in this blend — the remainder is 37% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Cabernet Franc. But I still feel that, at its heart, this wine is a Bordeaux-style blend. There is a nice meaty aroma layered over cassis and blackberry. The depth of the flavours in this wine are just incredible: blackcurrant, blackberry, plum, black liquorice and a slight 20 @ QUENCH_MAG
hint of spice. The tannins are still a little grippy on the way out, but this should settle down shortly after opening. You can expect this wine to go 5 to 7 years in a cellar. THE FOREIGN AFFAIR DREAM 2015 ($30)
As with many of the wines from the Foreign Affair, 15% of the juice in this one comes from grapes that were dried after harvest (appassimento). As a result, it’s no surprise that everything about this wine is a little pumped up. The aromas offer nicely concentrated cocoa and raspberry jam. The raspberry, cassis and blackberry fruit open up with nice intensity and weight. The tannins are soft and this wine is ready to enjoy now. You can expect this one to cellar for 4 to 6 years. INNISKILLIN MERITAGE 2015 ($20)
There is a slight red-pepper-jelly note circling raspberry on the nose — Cabernet Franc has proudly announced its presence in this bottle! On the palate, the savoury note is nicely restrained and replaced with raspberry, blackberry and a cocoa note. The tannins are soft but still robust should you decide to hold onto this wine for 5 to 7 years. NIAGARA COLLEGE TEACHING WINERY MERITAGE 2012 ($25)
A blend of 45% Cabernet Franc, 37% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon. Given the age of this wine, it is still clinging to its youth, but it’s starting to soften and it’s so smooth on the finish. The aromas and flavours offer raspberry and blackberry, and a nice cocoa note caresses the fruit. A bit of wood smoke makes an appearance on the soft velvet finish. RAVINE VINEYARD SAND AND GRAVEL REDCOAT 2014 ($20)
This is probably the most “French” of all the wines that I tasted. There is a barnyard note on the nose, but it is perfectly restrained
and well layered over cassis. There is something about the funky note on the nose that makes you want to dive head first into the glass and get lost in the blueberry, cassis and blackberry, with a cocoa note on the finish. This wine is approachable from the onset, but should develop nicely over the next 5 to 7 years. THIRTY BENCH WINEMAKER’S BLEND RED 2015 ($25)
Pure cassis on the nose and on the palate. It’s rich, it’s dark and there is a nice note of wood smoke and spice that climbs out from under the avalanche of black fruit bit by bit as you get deeper into the glass. An approachable and easy-drinking wine, but there is enough structure to the tannins and acid that it could easily sit in your cellar for 8 to 10 years. ORGANIZED CRIME PIPE DOWN 2016 ($22)
My favourite wine out of all the wines I tried. There are so many great wines in this article, but this one managed to climb to the top of the hill. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. There is a trifecta of elements that makes this wine so good: fruit, tannins and acidity. The aromas and flavours are cherry, wild strawberry and cassis. There is a slight vanilla and cocoa note that brings up the finish. This is one of those wines that you could pair with food, but in my house, you’re likely to only find it paired with a second glass. PONDVIEW ESTATE WINERY CABERNET/MERLOT RESERVE 2015 ($23)
There is something a little meaty and a little smoky that climbs out of the glass here. A short swirl of the wine knocks some fruit out from under the campfire cookout aromas. You will find cassis, blackberry and plum on the palate. The tannins are still quite closed off and tight, so expect to put this wine in a decanter if you plan to drink it now, otherwise revisit this wine in a year or two. You can expect this wine to hold in a cellar for 7 to 10 years. WEATHER REPORT RED 2013 ($29)
This new line from Stratus offers something in between their top offerings and the Wildass line that is frequently seen at Vintages. An unconventional blend, with Cab Franc, Cab Sauv and Merlot at its core, but there is also some Syrah, Viognier and Tempranillo in the mix. In tasting this wine, I was less concerned with the blend and more with the full-bodied, ripe fruit coming out of my glass. While this wine is accessible in its youth, and the tannins are well integrated, it is something that would benefit from a couple of years in a cellar to help soften the edges.
PENINSULA RIDGE MERITAGE RESERVE 2016 ($25)
A wine that requires some patience. It took two days for this wine to finally reveal to me what potential there was in the bottle, but it was worth the wait. You can expect to (eventually) find cherry, strawberry, blueberry, cassis and blackberry layered over baking spice and vanilla. The fruit is juicy and ripe, but there is some restraint in this bottle, which keeps the flavours from coming across as jammy. Anticipate this wine sitting in a cellar for at least 3 years before thinking of opening it without some serious time in a decanter. I anticipate it lasting 10 years or longer in a cellar. ROCKWAY SMALL LOT MERITAGE 2013 ($25)
Dark, heavy and brooding. The campfire smoke and beefy note announces itself without apology as it climbs out of the glass. On the palate, the fruit is blueberry, blackberry and plum. This wine is so closed off and tight right now that it requires quite a bit of time in a decanter to unlock the rich, dark fruit notes. The tannins are already silky smooth on the finish, but with a few years in a cellar, they should soften and bring some more balance. KACABA VINEYARDS CABERNET 2015 ($16)
A blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The Franc is unapologetic in announcing its presence in your glass with a soft, savoury note of red pepper mingling with smoke and red fruit. On the palate, the ripe fruit opens up with raspberry, cherry and blackberry. The finish is soft and easy. KACABA VINEYARDS CABERNET 2016 ($16)
Another bottle where it may be unfair to suggest that this isn’t something to hold onto for a few years. But it’s so approachable now that it’s not something I would worry about holding onto. The aromas are black liquorice, wood smoke, baking spice, cassis and black fruit. On the palate, this wine offers cassis, blackberry, dark cherry and plum. The tannins are soft and this wine is dangerously easy to drink. RAVINE MERITAGE 2016 ($28)
A blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and 35% Merlot. I have a soft spot in my heart for milk chocolate — and the aroma of this wine smells just like that. The flavours here offer a symphony of fruit with blueberry, plum, blackberry and Saskatoon berry (if you’ve never had one, this wine definitely brings their flavour to the glass). The tannins are still gripping on the finish so I would stow this wine away for a year or two before enjoying. Expect this bottle to hold for 7 to 10 years.
STRATUS WEATHER REPORT RED 2014 ($29)
You could enjoy this bottle now — but, trust me, this wine will benefit from some time in a cellar to unlock its full potential and depth. There is vanilla and baking spice on the nose. On the palate, the ripe fruit pushes through and brings raspberry, cherry, blackberry, cassis and plum to the glass. The tannins are large but approachable. I think this wine would be best enjoyed young but, given the way this wine is structured, youth is relative — expect to wait until 2020 to really enjoy this wine.
JACKSON-TRIGGS RESERVE MERITAGE 2015 ($25)
With aromas of charred wood and coffee jumping out of the glass, it took a fair bit of coaxing to get this wine to reveal the fruit hiding beneath. Expect to store in a cellar for 2 to 3 years, even if you plan on enjoying this wine while it’s young. With some patience, doing so will reveal cassis, blackberry and blueberry. That being said, if you open this wine now, expect to find mocha and smoke, front and centre. Cellar this bottle for 7 to 10 years. × JULY/AUGUST 2018 21
SYRAH IS THE NAME
OF THE GAME
by Konrad Ebjich
THE MOST COMPREHENSIVE ONTARIO SYRAH TASTING EVER DONE
Is Syrah Ontario’s sleeper grape? Turns out, this overlooked variety can produce profoundly tasty wine, even in poor-to-middling vintages ... provided it survives our harshest winters. Wine lovers prattle on way too much about the 1976 Judgement of Paris. That was the blind taste-off where the unknown Californians turned the French wine world upside down with their lush, ripe, delicious Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons. There’s no debate; it was a game changer. It brought the world’s attention to the New World. But that was all before my time. My personal eureka wine moment came the following year and California juice was already on the horizon. Australia didn’t exist yet — just don’t tell them — while Chile, Argentina and New Zealand were a decade away from making a decent wine. None of those “discoveries” was as eye-opening and jaw-dropping to me as the results of a private, one-person tasting conducted secretly in November 2006 in Toronto. While criss-crossing the country on a book tour, British wine critic Jancis Robinson, OBE, ComMA, MW, was invited to privately taste 70 of the best Canadian wines at George Brown College in Toronto. In her notes, published the following month, Robinson was particularly effusive about one wine. “Daniel Lenko’s 2002 Syrah from the Niagara Peninsula was so delicious that I felt it was truly outstanding,” she wrote. 22 @ QUENCH_MAG
“SYRAH?!” The wine community gasped. It wasn’t a revelation to just me. It was to all the Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, Merlot and Pinot Noir producers in the province — especially since Lenko’s wine had been made from three-year-old vines. “Who knew someone was growing Syrah in Ontario?” some winemakers wondered aloud. Syrah supporters are no different from Pinot protagonists. Same passion, different clone. DNA ANALYSIS SHOWS THAT ANCESTRALLY SYRAH IS RELATED TO PINOT NOIR, having received some of its genes
through Teroldego and Dureza, which mated with Mondeuse Blanche, which eventually begot Syrah, as well as its half-sister, Viognier. Polyamory, it appears, has no limits in nature. Mike Kacaba was the first to plant Syrah in Ontario soil. His Silver Bridge and Terraced Vineyards on the Beamsville Bench are the oldest known parcels, with 1,500 vines planted in 1997. Creekside Estate established its hot Queenston Road Vineyard on the St. David’s Bench in 1999; Daniel Lenko planted his halfacre parcel in 2000.
Total yield for Syrah in 2003 was 43 tonnes province-wide; by 2013, that figure had grown to 853 tonnes but tanked the following year to 266 tonnes. Ontario grape growers suffered frost damage in 2005 and 2009 but nothing like the “polar vortex” of 2014. “I just love the stuff,” says David Stasiuk, winemaker at Rockway Vineyards. “If it wasn’t so sensitive to our winters, I’d be focusing in on Syrah like others do on Pinot Noir.” Stasiuk adds, “Syrah ripens earlier than the Cabernets, has riper, more approachable tannins and delivers all sorts of beauty in the flavour department.” You’d think that Ontario would be too cold for the heat-loving variety, and that may be true for Prince Edward County, but certainly not for the hot pockets of the Niagara Peninsula and all of Lake Erie North Shore. Curiously, LENS has only a few acres devoted to the grape. “It’s well suited to Niagara’s growing conditions in spring, summer and fall,” Southbrook Vineyards winemaker Ann Sperling laughs. “Winters, as we’ve seen in recent years, can be a challenge.” I’ve been meaning to explore the mysteries of Ontario Syrah ever since the 2006 Judgement of Jancis. Earlier this year, I contacted as many producers as I could find in the province. I figured on getting a couple dozen samples. More than 50 arrived. Niagara’s Redstone Winery provided a complete vertical going back to 2010. Some wineries sent bottles not yet released to reveal what’s in the pipeline. A few tossed in an older vintage along with current releases. After I dug into my own cellar to fill in some gaps, there were 67 wines from 27 wineries spanning 15 years. PHOTO OF REDSTONE’S QUARRY ROAD VINEYARD
I planned to taste them all in a day but it took six. They were exceptionally consistent in the quality of winemaking. Not a single sample was flawed. I retasted the samples every few days over the course of two weeks, dumping some as they cracked. All the wines had a generous squirt of Canadian, cool-climate acidity, providing lasting freshness and substantial longevity, plus a soft-yet-sturdy, tannic spine, giving the wines exceptional structure and balance. Even the coolest years yielded wines of charm and vibrancy. As for weight, lean years make for lean wines, but there was no green weediness in any of these wines, as typically would appear in Cabernets and Merlots from cooler or wetter vintages. The range of aromas and flavours in the bouquet and taste of the wines was narrow and consistent with dominant characteristics including violets, dark fruits, especially black cherry, along with blackberry, mulberry, raspberry, plum, and occasional notes of blueberry, strawberry or cassis, plus barrel notes of smoke or tar. Wines with some Viognier mixed in had fuller body and more supple texture, as well as added aromas of jasmine, anise, bacon fat, smoked meat or liquorice. These are lovely wines to drink young and fresh. Restaurant wines. The bigger vintages are lush in their youth and make for terrific drinking with food to tame their tannins but may conceal the full spectrum of their nuanced flavours for up to a decade. Ilya Senchuk, owner-winemaker at Leaning Post Wines, is a big believer in Ontario Syrah — provided it’s grown on the right sites and treated well.“I do think Syrah is a bit of sleeper grape,” he says. JULY/AUGUST 2018 23
(SO): SOLD OUT, (NYR): NOT YET RELEASED, (RE): RESTAURANT EXCLUSIVITY
ANGELS GATE MOUNTAINVIEW SYRAH 2015, BEAMSVILLE BENCH ($35)
Bright, purple-plum hue. Youthful nose of raspberry and cherry with floral and spicy notes. Fresh, bright and bone dry with fruity notes of red and blue berries, plum, vanilla and clove. Jovial and juvenile. Drink now to 2023. 227 cases produced. COLANERI VISIONE SYRAH APPASSIMENTO 2009, NIAGARA PENINSULA (SO)
I expected this wine to be bigger considering its partially dried fruit. Ruby-garnet bowl with a clear, watery, browning rim. Stewed cherry nose with moderate intensity, maturing and vinous, with brewed coffee, dark chocolate, peppery and vegetal notes. Dry palate with fading fruit, dried cherries, hazelnut skin and wood flavours. Medium complexity and medium length. Drink now.
dry with tannins dominating at this time — the wine was bottled unfiltered — jammy raspberry flavours and juicy, mouth-watering texture. Drink now to 2025. CREEKSIDE SIGNATURE SHIRAZ 2002, NIAGARA PENINSULA (SO)
OWA Gold, 2005. Made from the first crop of the Queenston Road vineyard, planted in 1999. Garnet with a clear amber rim. Lush and fully mature vinous nose is moderately intense. Rich, caramelized red fruits, sandalwood, Virginia tobacco and smoked meat. Soft, supple texture, mature flavours and an elegant, lingering finish. Drink up. CREEKSIDE ESTATE SHIRAZ 2010, NIAGARA PENINSULA (SO)
When this wine was made, “estate” meant “house style” rather than origin. Solid garnet to the rim. Strong cracked-black-pepper notes almost had me sneezing. Dark fruits, velvety mouthfeel, bags of dark fruit and a snappy, clean finish. Best now.
COLANERI VISIONE SYRAH APPASSIMENTO 2013, NIAGARA PENINSULA (SO)
CREEKSIDE SYRAH 2016, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($16)
Garnet colour with a dense, inky bowl. Youthful red and blue berry scent riding on cocoa, custard and fruit yogurt aromas. Baked spices dominate the red fruit palate. Mildly dusty chalk finish. Best now through 2021. 350 cases.
Purple garnet with bright pink around the edges. Aromas of a black raspberry milkshake, plum pudding and a side of espresso. Bursting with energy, vibrant fruit and tight tannins. Tremendous now but flavours are juvenile. This may be the best value here. Drink now to 2022.
COLIO CEV SIX-BARREL SHIRAZ 2006, LAKE ERIE NORTH SHORE (SO)
CREEKSIDE ICONOCLAST SYRAH 2015, ST. DAVID’S BENCH ($25)
Then winemaker Tim Reilly used American oak to give the wine a sweetish, Australian twang, all the rage at the time. Rich amber-garnet with a warm orange rim. Soft and plummy nose with stewed and pruned flavours. Herbal and spicy with whiffs of iodine, melted chocolate, liquorice and barrel char. Dry, smoky, tannic palate with much of the fruit drying up. Drink soon. 150 cases. COLIO ESTATE BRICKLAYER’S CACHE SMALL LOT SYRAH 2012, LAKE ERIE NORTH SHORE ($30)
Tragically, the north block of Colio Estate Vineyard was devastated by the winters of 2013 and 2014, killing off the Syrah. Five of the eight lost acres now have been replanted with a hardier clone, but results will only appear after 2021. Garnet with an orange rim. Cooked dark cherry and plum aromas, now transitioning from youthful to vinous. Bone dry, tannic and medium bodied with accents of dark chocolate, roasting coffee and stew, Rhône-like notes of meat gravy and vegetables. Drink now to 2022. COOPER’S HAWK SYRAH 2016, LAKE ERIE NORTH SHORE (NYR)
Barrel sample of the winery’s first vintage from vines planted in 2013. Bright garnet-purple with a pink rim. Super fresh and fruity with black cherry and raspberry flavours. Vibrant and unsettled for now but potential is high for this and future vintages. Drink now to 2022. COYOTE’S RUN ESTATE SYRAH 2015, FOUR MILE CREEK ($35)
From the vineyard’s Red Paw Block. Deep purple-blue tint to the rim. Ripe nose with spicy, floral and dark berry nuances. Bone 24 @ QUENCH_MAG
Opaque inky-purple to the rim. Strong, dense, closed nose hinting at dark berry fruit with meaty, spicy undertones. Dry, medium–full bodied and tannic at this point with plenty of ripe black cherry and raspberry flavours. Highly concentrated with a promising future. Drink through 2025. CREEKSIDE BROKEN PRESS SHIRAZ RESERVE 2005, ST. DAVID’S BENCH (SO)
Dark, ruddy garnet bowl with a warm amber-orange rim. Moderately intense with some bottle stink at first, opening to a lush, mature and complex bouquet of cherry, pomegranate and plum compote, with rich, gamy nuances of beef gravy, soy sauce, duck fat and leather. It reveals its full depth over hours, not minutes. Even better on day two, and drinks well for three more days before cracking. Drink now through 2020. CREEKSIDE BROKEN PRESS SHIRAZ RESERVE 2006, ST. DAVID’S BENCH (SO)
Deep maroon with a mahogany rim. Nose starts off clogged and grumpy, but quickly reveals floral and spicy fruit aromas. Still juicy and tight on the palate with bright black cherry and plum flavours. Full bodied, mouth-filling and round with a long, lively aftertaste. Drink now through 2022. CREEKSIDE BROKEN PRESS SYRAH 2008, ST. DAVID’S BENCH (SO)
OWA Gold, 2012. Chestnut-garnet centre with an amber-orange rim. Eggy for a moment, but soon the bouquet is all chocolate cherry bomb, flowers and roast beef juices. Silky, lean, lively and exciting. Vibrant and complex with a lovely finish. At its peak.
PETER ROTAR, WINEMAKER AT MAGNOTTA
CREEKSIDE BROKEN PRESS SYRAH 2015, ST. DAVID’S BENCH ($55)
Three percent Viognier was co-fermented with the Syrah. It’s a brooding, restrained beast just waiting to emerge. Purple-garnet hue to the rim. Light and bright with high-toned cassis, black raspberry and black cherry aromas. Hints of meat and spice are there but the nose is so juvenile at this point. Dark fruit on the palate is concentrated, tight and tannic, like young vintage port without any sugar. Powerful and elegant, but completely undeveloped. Best after 2020; drink through 2030. CREEKSIDE UNBROKEN PRESS SYRAH 2015, ST. DAVID’S BENCH ($50)
This undoctored version is 100% Syrah. Bright, clear, purple-garnet to the rim. Leaner, tighter, purer and more severe bouquet and taste. Snappy, dark berry flavours are a total “wow!” Flavours of black cherry, black raspberry, black tea and dark toast with charred edges hang on the palate. Textbook. Drink 2020 to 2030.
FLAT ROCK CELLARS THE ROGUE SYRAH 2007, TWENTY MILE BENCH (SO)
OWA Gold, 2011. Deep, dark garnet with the slightest colour change at the rim. Nose is light, bright and fruity with great harmony, but seems delicate, perhaps even fragile. Cherry-plum complexity with subtle, spicy, rendered fat notes are a decade’s reward. Drink now.
FIELDING SYRAH 2010, NIAGARA PENINSULA (SO)
Dark garnet with a thin amber rim. Rich fruit nose is ripe and clearly developing complexity. Bigger than the ’12; fuller, fatter, richer and smoother. Drinking beautifully right now through 2022. FIELDING SYRAH 2012, NIAGARA PENINSULA (SO)
Garnet with a hint of orange on the rim. Perfect bumbleberry nose of black cherry, black raspberry, blackcurrant and red strawberry and cherry flavours. Rich, dry, balanced palate with enough elegance to hide its sheer power. About to enter its best drinking period, now through 2025. FIELDING SYRAH 2016, ST. DAVID’S BENCH (NYR)
Grapes have always been from Lowrey Vineyard, but this label will show it. Purple-garnet with a thin pink rim. Vibrant raspberry and cassis nose, still floral and jumping with energy. Palate is bursting with juicy, fruity, sweet, juvenile fruit. Great balance, great harmony, great future. Drink 2020 to 2030.
FLAT ROCK CELLARS THE ROGUE SYRAH 2011, TWENTY MILE BENCH (SO)
Final vintage for this varietal. Garnet bowl, paler that the ’07, with a fading amber rim. Big, red fruit nose is ripe but waning. The palate is a light cherry soup with hints of orange pekoe tea. Drink soon, before the fruit completely dries up. HINTERLAND RED HERRING SYRAH 2016, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($39)
Grapes are from Wismer Vineyards’ Parke Block. Deep, dark purple-garnet, thick to the rim. Blockbuster nose, bursting with blackberry, black cherry, raspberry and plum. Seems forward at first with its implicit sweetness, lush, dark fruit and full body, but powerful and peppery tough-love tannins are holding back the best of what’s to come. A muscular boxer, still in training. Drink 2020 to 2025. ICELLARS SYRAH 2016, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($39)
Grapes are from Wismer’s Edgerock Vineyard. Dense purple-garJULY/AUGUST 2018 25
SYRAH SUPPORTERS ARE NO DIFFERENT FROM PINOT PROTAGONISTS. SAME PASSION, DIFFERENT CLONE.
COYOTE’S RUN
net with a pink rim. Powerful, smoky, meaty nose with berries and plums dominating. Palate is full bodied, dry, concentrated, herbal and savoury. One to watch. Drink now to 2028.
amber rim. Full and smooth with aromas of dark cherry and raspberry, and flavours of lightly smoked meat, plum and white pepper. Drink now.
JACKSON TRIGGS DELAINE VINEYARD SYRAH 2005, NIAGARA PENINSULA (SO)
KACABA SYRAH PROPRIETOR’S BLOCK 2013, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT (SO)
OWA Gold, 2008. Chestnut hue with pale browning edges. Mature bouquet with exotic spices, cedar, tobacco, plum and cherry notes. Fully mature and beginning to slide. Complex, stewed cherry flavours with meaty, balsamic nuances. A well-aged beauty. Drink up.
Co-fermented with 7% Viognier. Light red fruit notes, and a softness that comes earlier to this wine and hangs on longer. Plump, smooth and supple, with lingering flavours of plum, cherry and pastry fat. Drink now to 2020.
JACKSON TRIGGS SHIRAZ GRAND RESERVE 2015, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($25)
KACABA SYRAH PROPRIETOR’S BLOCK 2016, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($30)
From the Koop Vineyard on the Jordan Bench. Garnet with a pink rim. Floral and berry notes dominate, with spicy milk chocolate overtones. Juicy with a clean, smooth mouthfeel and a light easy-going finish. Drink now to 2020.
Youthful purple-garnet. Billowing with big, juvenile violet and berry notes. Beneath, there’s some depth and savouriness, with toasted hazelnut, olive and herbal flavours. Ripe, mid-weight, fruity wine with a lively finish. Promising future. Drink now to 2025. 300 cases.
KACABA SYRAH SINGLE VINEYARD 2009, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT (SO)
KACABA SYRAH SILVER BRIDGE VINEYARD 2013, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT (SO)
A barrel selection from 10-year-old vines. Red-brick with a browning amber rim. Spicy bouquet with flavours of dark cherry, cedar, baking spices, leather, coffee, soy and smoked meat. High-acid finish. Drink up.
This may be the oldest Syrah parcel in Ontario. Includes 7% Viognier. Ruby-garnet. Raspberry, cassis and smoked meat. Savoury, fresh, balanced, mid-weight and silky. Developing complexity appears in the lingering, tannic finish. Drink now to 2020.
KACABA SYRAH SINGLE VINEYARD 2010, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT (SO)
KACABA SYRAH SILVER BRIDGE VINEYARD 2016, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($30)
ACWC Gold, 2013. From young vines planted in 2007, this parcel was later named Proprietor’s Block. Ruby garnet with an orange
Purple-garnet. Bright, ripe raspberry and violet notes dominate. More body than the ’13, with fuller flavours and tight tannic
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structure. More concentration, depth, complexity and length. Drink now to 2024. KACABA SYRAH TERRACED VINEYARD 2013, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT (SO)
This is the darkest and densest of the three vineyards. Includes 7% Viognier. Dark berry fruits with plum and pepper dominating. Solid, corpulent and muscular with savoury flavours of dark fruits, rosemary, smoked bacon, black olives and a chewy finish. Drink now to 2022. KACABA SYRAH TERRACED VINEYARD 2016, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($30)
Purple-garnet to the rim. Powerful, dark, concentrated, floral bush-berry aromas. Thick texture almost seems fat. Smooth palate with ripe fruit, tough peppery tannins, full body and a long, lingering, complex finish. Drink now to 2026. KACABA SYRAH RESERVE 2010, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT (SO)
A barrel selection from the two oldest blocks. Garnet with an orange rim. Maturing nose of stewed fruits and Virginia tobacco. Peaking, with complex, harmonious, ripe and lovely flavours of plum, mocha, white pepper and boiled smoked sausage. Solid, balanced and ready. Best now, but may hold through to 2022. KACABA RESERVE SYRAH 2015, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($45)
NWAC Gold, 2017. A blend of the three blocks. Garnet with a purple rim. Ripe fruit nose of blackberry, cherry, currants and plum with a dusting of black pepper and just-sharpened lead pencil. Vibrant palate is implicitly sweet with concentrated dark fruits, powerful tannins and juicy acidity. Ripe, round, well integrated and notable for its sheer power and elegance, all that’s missing is some cellar time. Drink 2019 to 2027.
LEANING POST SYRAH KECZAN VINEYARD 2012, LINCOLN LAKESHORE (SO)
Lesser-known producer of big, bold Syrah. Deep opaque garnet to the rim. Big, full nose of red and black fruits, roasted coffee beans, spicy meat glaze and wood smoke. Savoury palate is vibrant, youthful and fleshy, with notes of cherry, plum and raspberry. Lovely velvety texture. Drink now to 2025. LEANING POST SYRAH KECZAN VINEYARD 2016, LINCOLN LAKESHORE ($45)
Dark, translucent garnet bowl with a pale rim and watery edges. Nose is youthful, vibrant and tight with fruity and herbal notes needing time to open up. Bold fruit palate is implicitly sweet with dark berry flavours, subtle herbal notes, a whiff of bacon fat and that same lovely texture. Drink to 2030. MAGNOTTA LIMITED EDITION SHIRAZ 2013, NIAGARA PENINSULA (SO)
OWA Gold and ACWC Gold, 2015. Medium garnet with a brown rim. Black cherry cheesecake nose with cherry and plum flavours on the palate. Mature and ready with caramelized fruit sweetness and a smooth, round finish. Drink up. 500 cases. MAGNOTTA LIMITED EDITION SHIRAZ 2015, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($21)
Winemaker Peter Rotar gets his grapes from Weins Family Farms in the hot, central Four Mile Creek appellation. Garnet with an orange tint to the rim. Fully developed aromas of blackberry, cassis and coconut with subtle baking spices and tarry notes wafting through. Pretty flavours with an appealing commercial twang. Drink through 2019.
LAKEVIEW RESERVE SYRAH 2006, NIAGARA PENINSULA (SO)
MAGNOTTA LIMITED EDITION SHIRAZ 2016, NIAGARA PENINSULA (NYR)
Browning garnet with an orange-brown rim. Vegetal, cabbage nose with caramelized fruit sugars, soy sauce and fruitcake aromas. This wine is essentially “holding” but fruit is drying up and mouth-drying tannins are starting to kick in. Drink up.
Tank sample. Light and bright purple garnet with a vibrant pink rim. Bright, clean and lean nose, currently showing blackberry and mulberry aromas with signs of black pepper and tar. Savoury, herbal and tannic at this stage. Drink to 2020.
LAKEVIEW SYRAH RESERVE 2012, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE (SO)
MASTRONARDI SYRAH 2007, LAKE ERIE NORTH SHORE (SO)
Translucent garnet bowl with a hint of orange on the rim. Clean fruit bouquet is opening up with plummy flavours of red and black cherry and a slight whiff of bacon fat beneath. Medium bodied with cherry and leather flavours. Round with a mouth-watering leather and tobacco finish. Drink now to 2020.
Brown with garnet undertones and a watery amber rim. Past its peak with stewy notes of soy, miso, liquorice and dried fruits. Palate is still interesting but fruit is drying up and acidity is beginning to overwhelm. Lovely, complex, mature fruit jam, meat stew and fall forest flavours. Drink up.
LAKEVIEW SYRAH RESERVE 2015, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($25)
MASTRONARDI SYRAH 2016, LAKE ERIE NORTH SHORE ($25)
Lighter garnet hue with a pale rim. Fresh nose of blackberry and red cherry. Fresh, light berry flavours with tart cherry dominant. A lighter winemaking style has emerged over the decade. Drink through 2021.
Pale garnet to the rim. Commercially appealing nose of powdered sugar, red cherry candies and plum pie. Sweetish dark berry flavours with subtle black pepper lift. Clean, balanced, round and pleasant for current drinking. Drink to 2020. JULY/AUGUST 2018 27
MELDVILLE BARREL SELECT SYRAH 2016, LINCOLN LAKESHORE ($27)
REDSTONE SYRAH REDSTONE VINEYARD 2013, LINCOLN LAKESHORE ($40)
Dense, inky purple black and solid to the rim. Closed nose reveals dark plummy fruit and a berries-in-sour-cream undertone with strong whiffs of white pepper, black olives and liquorice. Tannic and smoky with black fruit flavours. Hard, tough and grippy; can the fruit outlast these tannins? Drink to 2025. 46 cases.
The lightest vintage to date and best drunk soonest. Pale garnet, watery rim. Ripe red fruit notes are now at their best. Cherry and plum on a backdrop of warm earth, tobacco, cedar and spice. Balanced with light tannins, cleansing acidity and a lingering, if fragile, aftertaste. Drink before 2020.
MUSCEDERE SYRAH 2012, LAKE ERIE NORTH SHORE ($40)
REDSTONE SYRAH REDSTONE VINEYARD 2014, LINCOLN LAKESHORE ($40)
Deep opaque garnet with hints of orange at the rim. Superficially jammy with aromas of vanilla, coconut, oak and smoke. Beneath, there’s more depth, complexity and solid structure. Thick, velvety, supple texture, ripe black fruit and a cleansing lick of acidity. Drink now to 2020. PELEE ISLAND SHIRAZ 2016, ONTARIO (RE)
Light, bright, vinous and ready. A clean, light, balanced, simple-yet-pleasant, low-tannin, ready-to-go, friendly sipper. Perfect with cheap-and-cheerful luncheon menus through 2019. PENINSULA RIDGE SHIRAZ 2016, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($15)
Bright garnet. Aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry and liquorice. Luscious and built for early drinking. Fruity, juicy, balanced and soft with low tannins. Drink through 2020.
Inky blue garnet with a purple rim. Wildberry nose with raspberry and cassis aromas. Lean, dry and somewhat undemonstrative at this time, with hard fruit possessing tough tannins. Drink after 2018 through 2024. REDSTONE SYRAH REDSTONE VINEYARD 2015, LINCOLN LAKESHORE ($40)
Inky purple garnet to the rim. Rich, full, blossoming nose of violets and sweet plums, or a bowl of berries drizzled with cassis. Lush, supple palate with plummy flavours, savoury and smoke notes, and a long, tongue-coating finish. If it wasn’t so damn tasty now, I’d recommend holding back till more of its goodness comes out. Drink now to 2030. REIF ESTATE SHIRAZ RESERVE 2016, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($27)
PENINSULA RIDGE RESERVE SYRAH 2015, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($30)
Translucent garnet to the rim. Big bouquet of plums and berries with rich, oaky, smoky notes of ground coffee and roasted chestnuts. Full-bodied and tannic, but fruit holds up. Drink now to 2024. REDSTONE SYRAH REDSTONE VINEYARD 2010, LINCOLN LAKESHORE (SO)
Medium garnet hue. Fruity, jammy nose is youthful and sprightly. Lush and seductive palate of forward berry fruit, vanilla, light oak and a kiss of residual sweetness. Terrific for early drinking through 2020. RIVERVIEW CELLARS SALVATORE’S RESERVE SYRAH 2013, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($30)
NWAC Gold, 2014. Organic and biodynamic. A blockbuster. Inky garnet with a purple-blue rim. Rich vanilla and violet notes with black cherry, raspberry, plum, cedar, black earth and spice. Pure as fruit syrup with a full body and luscious, supple texture. Big and long-lived. Still has far to go. Drink now to 2028.
Grapes are from Weins Family Farms nearby. Light chestnut-garnet throughout. Old-world aromas of spiced cherry, prune, earth and savoury herbs. Edgy, high-acid, Euro-style food wine with top notes of black fruits and underlying balsamic tartness, spicy oak and focused, lingering complexity enhanced greatly when taken with red meat. Drink now to 2023.
REDSTONE SYRAH REDSTONE VINEYARD 2011, LINCOLN LAKESHORE (SO)
ROCKWAY VINEYARDS GRAND RESERVE SYRAH 2011, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($42)
Light garnet. Taut aromas and flavours of dark fruits, black tea and liquorice. Concentrated black fruit flavours and peppery, smoke notes are held together with juicy acidity and tannic grip. Drink now to 2021.
Garnet to the rim. Tight, closed, ripe nose of dark fruits and berries. Solid, concentrated fruit and gripping tannins are unyielding but balanced. Days later, the wine is still tight but showing signs of what may be. Cassis, liquorice, toasted hazelnuts lie in waiting. Decant to aerate before serving. Drink to 2022.
REDSTONE SYRAH REDSTONE VINEYARD 2012, LINCOLN LAKESHORE (SO)
Better than the first vintage by a nose ... and a sip. Dark plum-garnet with a twinkle of pink at the rim. Thick, ripe nose of black cherry, raspberry and even a hint of strawberry. Full body with lush fruit and well-integrated tannins. Rich, fatty, smoked finish is full of lingering flavours. Great future. Drink now to 2027. 28 @ QUENCH_MAG
ROCKWAY VINEYARDS SMALL LOT RESERVE SYRAH 2010, TWENTY MILE BENCH (SO)
Deep maroon-garnet with some browning at the edges. Cherry-berry nose with baking spices and black liquorice. Has developed well with soft tannins, but plenty of them. Drink through 2024.
THE WINEMAKING TEAM AT LAKEVIEW WINE CO. THOMAS GREEN, JESSICA WALLACE AND SCOTT MCGREGOR
ROCKWAY VINEYARDS SMALL LOT SYRAH BLOCK 12-140 2012, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($35)
Deep garnet with minor browning on the rim. Ripe, inviting nose, concentrated dark berries, violets, white pepper and smoky oak. Tremendous grip, balanced acidity with surprisingly youthful flavours. A biggie. Drink now to 2028. ROCKWAY VINEYARDS SMALL LOT SYRAH BLOCK 12-140 2013, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($25)
Light garnet with a pale rim. Bright, youthful, ripe nose. Floral, juicy, balanced, light bodied, fruity, delicious and ready now. Drink by 2020. SOUTHBROOK VINEYARDS SYRAH ROSÉ 2017, FOUR MILE CREEK ($27)
Organic and biodynamic. Healthy pink as nubile flesh. Close your eyes, take a deep breath and you’re back on the Côte d’Azur. Fullish body, brisk acidity and supple, with a fruit salad of juicy flavours. Where’s lunch? Where’s the patio? Drink through 2019.
smooth start, supple medium body, and terrific balance with a lot of finesse in the finish. Drink now to 2022. STRATUS SYRAH 2014, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($48)
SOUTHBROOK VINEYARDS WH¡MSY! SYRAH 2012, FOUR MILE CREEK (SO)
Organic and biodynamic. The crew calls it “tall, dark and spicy.” Garnet bowl with an amber rim. Rich, savoury, black cherry and sausage-meat bouquet. Full bodied with high acidity, and complex, meaty, leathery flavours. Fruit is beginning to dry up. Drink now to 2020. STRATUS SYRAH 2013, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($48)
Bright garnet with the beginnings of discolouration at the rim. High-toned red fruits. Light cherry-berry flavours with a silky-
Bright garnet with a lively pink rim. Ripe berry and plum nose with subtle nuances of rose, violet and nose-tickling white pepper. More fruit concentration with the same silky texture, soft, smooth tannins and a long, elegant finish. Drink now to 2024. 364 cases. 13TH STREET ESSENCE SYRAH 2013, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($45)
With grapes from Wismer and A.J. Lepp vineyards. Light garnet with hints of browning around the edge. Strong plummy nose with savoury notes of rosemary, ham and charred toast. Medium bodied and chewy, with hard tannins and a hint of bitterness in the finish. Drink now to 2021. × JULY/AUGUST 2018 29
THE KEY TO SUCCESS by Tim Pawsey Rhône or Bordeaux? Why (for now) Syrah is winning BC’s Red Wine Sweepstakes.
It’s a well-known fact that prior to the great “pull-out” of the late 1980s, there wasn’t much of anything worth drinking in the way of red wine coming out of the Okanagan. With the exception of a few hybrids, such as Chancellor (made by former Calona Vineyards veteran winemaker Howard Soon even then), most people would rather have foregone wine entirely than drink a glass of BC red.
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of winning were about 34 to 1. Over the years, the LG’s Awards became not only one of the most prestigious contests of its kind but also a barometer by which the progress of the province’s different varieties might be judged. There was no predetermined distribution of awards by wine style or colour. Wines were judged on their own merits and, relevant to this discussion, varieties vied with each other for attention. Those early Lieutenant Governor’s contests witnessed a fairly even split between the awarding of Bordeaux varieties and Meritage blends, along with a smattering of still-neophyte Syrahs. However, as Syrah plantings increased and the grapes became more available, Rhône-inspired reds have eclipsed their Bordeaux cousins in more recent judgings, at the rate of about two to one, suggesting that something big was afoot. In short, Syrah has eclipsed Cabernet and Merlot in BC — possibly with good reason. But how come?
SMALL BEGINNINGS
Happily, in hardly more than a generation, all that has changed. BC’s winemakers have developed what was unthinkable at the time: the ability to produce red wines that compete with any from around the world. The performance of Syrah in particular has turned more than a few heads. In the inaugural 2015 Judgment of BC (in which BC wines were tasted blind beside comparable international bottles), Syrah scooped three out of the five top spots. The result prompted visiting international judge and critic Steven Spurrier to say that BC Syrah is “correctly French in name and style” and “attracting justified attention.” The BC Lieutenant Governor’s Awards for Excellence in Wine (now merged with the BC Wine Awards) used to be one of the more unique competitions held anywhere in the world. Attracting upwards of some 400 entries, it bestowed only — at most — a dozen awards annually. In other words, a wine’s odds PHOTO OF THE BLACK HILLS ESTATE WINERY
The first hint that Syrah might be viable happened in 1991, when pioneers Alex and Kathleen Nichol made an impressive wine from their small Naramata Bench vineyard, demonstrating that you could indeed grow good Syrah in BC. As with most things viticultural, it was a case of location, location, location — in this case a hot spot at the foot of a steep hill. After a relatively slow beginning, more plantings of Syrah began to take hold. However, it was an uphill struggle, as Cabernet Sauvignon still seemed to represent the holy grail for most — regardless of the myriad challenges it presented. In 2004, Okanagan Syrah acreage stood at a scant 191 acres. It’s now the fifth most-planted red in the province, with some 530 acres planted and accounts for about 5 percent of the total red grape production. Syrah’s acreage is similar to increasingly popular Cabernet Franc, and looks to be gaining ground on Cabernet Sauvignon. (Some of that growth can be credited consumers embracing Australian Shiraz, often credited for turning a whole generation on to wine.) For the most part, BC Syrah is made predominantly as a standalone variety, although increasingly, winemakers are co-fermenting with small amounts of Viognier, emulating Côte-Rôtie. While several producers make single-varietal Cabernet Sauvignon, the variety’s principal raison d’être is as a component of Meritage. Indeed, BC Meritage is highly dependent on the capricious nature of Cabernet Sauvignon. Even in a “good” year, it can still be challenging to fully ripen Cabernet Sauvignon. By comparison, Syrah in a prime site can generally be relied upon to yield solid if not excellent results, regardless of vintage. JULY/AUGUST 2018 31
BARTIER BROS. SYRAH 2015 ($26)
LAUGHING STOCK PORTFOLIO 2015 ($45)
From a west-facing slope below Black Sage Road, with dense loam over limestone and granite. Lifted notes of red and black fruit precede a well-structured, mouth-filling, well-balanced palate of pepper and mineral hints and well-integrated tannins through a lengthy close.
From sites in Naramata and Osoyoos, a blend of 45% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot yields upfront red and black fruit. Some earthy hints before a medium- to full-bodied palate buoyed by well-integrated tannins and juicy acidity through a lengthy end.
MAVERICK ESTATE RUBEUS 2015 ($25)
From the east side of the valley south of Oliver. Co-fermented blend of 50% Syrah, 35% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Cabernet Franc yields upfront aromas of anise, spice and cranberry before a luscious palate of plum and cassis supported by firm tannins with a lengthy finish. VANESSA VINEYARD MERITAGE 2013 ($45)
From a hot, extremely stony, south-west-facing rocky slope in the Similkameen Valley. A blend of 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Cabernet Franc and 24% Merlot. Aromas of floral and herbal notes with toasty undertones before a luscious, full-bodied and well-structured palate with vanilla, mocha and black fruit before a long close. VANESSA VINEYARD RIGHT BANK 2014 ($45)
A blend of 77% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon delivers hints of wild red berries before a juicy, well-structured and complex palate of spice, raspberry and blackberry with a distinct mineral streak and excellent tension. Layered, smoky and lengthy. PERSEUS INVICTUS 2013 ($42)
A blend of 42% Cabernet Franc, 38% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Malbec sourced from various sites in the south Okanagan and Similkameen valleys. Aromas of vibrant black fruit and earthy notes lead to a mouth-filling palate of anise and damson with mocha hints and approachable tannins through a long finish. BLACK HILLS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014 ($100)
From Black Sage Bench, the inaugural single-varietal Cabernet Sauvignon, at a premium level, yields upfront red and black fruit. Earthy hints and pencil shavings precede a firm, well-balanced palate led by ripe blackberry and cassis, underpinned by approachable tannins. Spicy, leathery and peppery notes through a plush and rounded palate to the spicy close.
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LAUGHING STOCK SYRAH 2013 ($34)
Syrah from estate-owned Osoyoos vineyard plus 4% Viognier. Côte-Rôtie-inspired blend yields deep, inky indigo in the glass with aromas of cassis and black cherry followed by a palate of plush and plummy intense blue fruit. Leathery, peppery, meaty edge, assertive mouthfeel and viscose with a definite black pepper finish. CC JENTSCH SYRAH 2014 ($30)
Golden Mile Bench and 24% Black Sage fruit co-fermented with 9% Viognier. Black fruit and pepper on the nose, followed by a luscious but well-balanced, well-textured palate of black fruit and spicy notes. Approachable tannins are wrapped in good acidity and definite oak before a lengthy finish. PAINTED ROCK RED ICON 2015 ($48)
Estate-grown Skaha Bench fruit, this flagship blend of 45% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, 11% Malbec, 11% Petit Verdot and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon yields forward black fruit and spice aromas before a seamless, elegant palate defined by structure and power. Flavours of blackberry, cassis and plum are layered and complex, emphasized by freshness and good acidity, underpinned by well-integrated tannins and measured French oak through a lengthy, peppery finish. PAINTED ROCK SYRAH 2015 ($40)
Estate-grown Skaha Bench fruit. Inviting aromas of seductive red and black fruit, pepper notes and some meaty hints precede a mouth-filling palate of mulberry, blackcurrant and vanilla. Plush but not overt, with a deliberate, structured core and firm but approachable tannins. Well-managed French oak precedes a peppery and persistent close.
PAINTED ROCK’S JOHN SKINNER
THE VINE WHISPERER
When it comes to the story of how big reds came into their own in the South Okanagan, there’s nobody more central than veteran and now retired grape-growing guru Richard (Dick) Cleave. If you’ve ever tasted a BC red that impressed you (or even one that came close), chances are that Cleave had a hand in it somewhere along the line. In 1991, he was the first to plant Cabernet Sauvignon in the Okanagan Valley. At the time, it caused quite a stir but also motivated others, such as Harry McWatters, to plant larger parcels. “The powers that be told us we’d go broke; that I should be planting Pinot Noir,” chuckles Cleave, who said he was pondering his future just after “the big pullout.” “I went and saw my accountant ... and he said ‘Grow grapes. You’re good at it’ ... So, that’s what I did, and I’m eternally grateful to him for it!” Cleave planted his Phoenix Vineyard, now owned by Black Hills/Peller Estates. As it turned out, the Pinot actually didn’t do so well — but the Cabernet proved everyone wrong. Cleave and his company, R & R Vineyard Management, went on to be the most respected consultants and managers in the Okanagan Valley, eventually planting some several thousand acres for major players ranging from Burrowing Owl to Sumac Ridge to Mission Hill, and many more. When asked about what’s up with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cleave gets right to the point. “I can tell you the number one problem is leafroll type 3. It’s a virus and all those original plantings have it badly.”
Cleave explains that most of the vines came from France and were propagated with wood from the French rootstock (SO4) in Ontario. He adds, “We did all those big plantings with those kinds of vines.” The virus, he says, causes a mix of marginal or under-ripe fruit, even in a so-called good year. “The leaves turn a reddish-purple colour when they are in their prime sugar-producing phase and they’re absolutely useless because they don’t synthesize. You end up with half green seeds and basically green flavours,” says the veteran grower. And there is no cure. “They have to be pulled out and replaced. It’s a lot of acreage. Everybody knows it, but it has to be done.” The good news is that the problem will be solved over the next few years, as the pull-out of infected vines and replanting with more suitable vines is already well under way, says Cleave.
A QUESTION OF YIELDS
However, the bigger issue for Cabernet, as it has been all along, is clonal selection and rootstock. Cleave recalls that, at the time of the first red Bordeaux vinifera plantings in the South Okanagan, nobody, including “the majors,” was prepared to go to the time and expense to properly trial and experiment under what conditions the varieties would perform best. When, in 1996, Cleave planted his now much celebrated Phantom Creek vineyard (which he sold to the Bai family last year), he embarked upon a series of thorough trials — which eventually turned the vineyard into the country’s most awarded. Phantom JULY/AUGUST 2018 33
Creek is renowned for producing a series of stellar competition winners for Sandhill Small Lots. It didn’t happen by chance. “That vineyard has very light style, so I decided to plant the most restrictive [slower-growing] rootstock I could find,” he explains. “I got some pretty big Cabs out of there. But I was also cut down to three pounds per plant,” he says. “If you go much over three pounds, the quality of fruit suffers accordingly. The cropping levels are really critical. If you go up to four or five pounds per vine, you’re out of the running as far as high-end wines are concerned.” Cleave says he works in pounds per vine due to the variation in the valley of plants per acre. The same applies to Cabernet Franc, which is very similar, he says but adds: “Although, I think, done well, we can grow some of the best Cabernet Franc in the world.” The thinking on yields and quality have changed considerably since those early days, says Cleave. “The theory was that you needed a big engine. That means having a fair-sized canopy to mature the fruit — which has since been proven completely wrong. “I think now that everyone knows what the problem is you’ll see a drastic improvement in those Bordeaux varieties. They’re late varieties. Cabernet is very late. Merlot is more mid-season, so you can get away with. We can grow great Merlots in some places. But with Cabernet you can’t do it. The ripening issue is further complicated by the fact that vines shut down at around 33 to 34 Celsius — a common occurrence at the height of a South Okanagan summer. Even in a hotter summer, without an extended warm spell prior to harvest, fully ripening Cabernet can still be a challenge.
SYRAH: A SHORT-TERM AFFAIR?
Nonetheless, for many, Cabernet Sauvignon remains the Meritage’s critical component. Former Sandhill and Calona head winemaker Howard Soon, who now makes wine and heads up viticulture at the Similkameen’s Vanessa Vineyards, says Syrah may be “more showy” but it doesn’t deliver the complexity and interest that Cabernet brings to a blend. “It’s like a short-term relationship, gratifying to begin with but you get tired of it after a while,” he jokes. Soon feels that the new program at Vanessa, which will see more time both in barrel and in bottle, will produce significant results for the winery’s Meritage blend. Also, suggests Soon, when you taste Syrah beside a Bordeaux blend in competition, there’s a different expectation. The Bordeaux needs more time to open up to fully reveal its subtleties and the various elements of the blend. “I think the gloss has fallen off Syrah,” he says. Not so for winemaker Michael Bartier of Bartier Bros., who’s a solid fan. He says there are a lot of good sites in the Okanagan for Syrah. (One would be Painted Rock’s Skaha Bluffs vineyard, which seems to have no problem ripening either Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon.) “The vine adjusts to its surroundings as well as what style it produces. The same genetic material produces very different wines in the Northern Rhône compared to the Barossa Valley,” he points out. 34 @ QUENCH_MAG
“I think Syrah in the South Okanagan Valley has a distinct character. It’s delicious; and can be achieved quite easily — whether you’re above or below Black Sage Road. There’s a minerality both from the sand and the rocks.,” he says. However, hang time is critical. “The trick is not to let it hang too long, otherwise you lose that sense of where it came from. I can’t count how many times I’ve regretted letting the grapes hang too long. Yet I can’t think of a single time where I’ve regretted picking too early. You get much better character if you’re picking on the early side as opposed to later,” he says. Overall, Bartier feels it’s too hot in the parts of South Okanagan for Cabernet Sauvignon. He points to cooler Coonawarra and Bordeaux, which have maritime climates, as ideal Cabernet regions.
THE PRAGMATIST
Just south of Oliver, Maverick Estate winemaker Bertus Albertyn, who hails from the Cape, and was at one time winemaker at Burrowing Owl, has a foot in both camps. “I’m fond of Syrah. It has a wide range ... all the way from a cool-climate style on some of the valley’s cooler sites through to the really ripe Australian style. Both in their own way can be high quality.” Maverick is one of a handful of Okanagan wineries that blends both Cabernet and Syrah (in their flagship Rubeus red blend). There’s a good reason for that, says the winemaker, who finds Syrah in his location and climate is just easier to work with — and more versatile. He uses between 10 to 15 percent Cabernet Sauvignon in his blend. “Originally we had a higher percentage of Cabernet but we brought it down just because the tannins make it really tough to work with in the cooler years.” The site is on the west side of the valley and doesn’t get the afternoon sun experienced by Black Sage, which has a better chance of ripening. Albertyn adds: “The only negative about Syrah is that it’s not tannic enough — it’s too soft. That’s why I add the Cabernet; it seems to me that combination is what I really like.” The Maverick Cab is a newer clone (169) that doesn’t have a leafroll issue, he says. “I do like the backbone [from Cabernet] but the problem is that often it’s too tannic. And in those seasons where you can get it ripe, you have to let it hang for so long that, by the time it softens up, it’s too alcoholic. So you lose out in other ways.” Albertyn feels that, as time goes on, Syrah’s presence in the Okanagan will become even stronger. And as for the quintessential red blend? It’s still early days, he suggests, adding: “I honestly feel that the Syrah/Cabernet combination will be the best.” We’ll give Richard Cleave the last word: “I think you’ll see some great improvements — and, of course, winemaking techniques in the valley have substantially changed. There’s a lot of expertise from different countries — and different opinions. But I think once we get the combination of great grapes with great winemakers, this place is going to go far ... The best is still to come.” Suggesting that, at the end of the day, any Syrah versus Cabernet discussion is somewhat academic in the first place. ×
THE GRAND UNIFIER
by Michael Pinkus
You know the world is pulling for you when you get your very own hashtag #GoGamayGo. It seems like no other grape gets less love IRL, but has more backers on the web.
VOLCANIC HILLS GAMAY NOIR 2016, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($17)
Full-on black cherry with floral and cassis backing it up; this is just pure juicy goodness. HENRY OF PELHAM GAMAY ESTATE 2016, ONTARIO ($20)
As a cool-climate region, Canada sees the value and the possibilities of having this grape in the ground — and it did from the very early stages. With their first vintage of Gamay going way back to 1978, Château des Charmes’ Michele Bosc has seen the grape mature in the field and consumers’ eyes. “When planning the vineyards, Paul Sr., believed there was enough similarity between Niagara and Burgundy … but he didn’t know the specifics of which grapes would do best in which sites. So, he planted them all — from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to Gamay Noir and Viognier and Syrah. Gamay thrived, Syrah did not.”
At Cave Spring Cellars, long-time winemaker Angelo Pavan recalls, “It was understood to be winter hardy and, being a Burgundy variety, an earlier ripener; therefore, it was a safe bet.” All the way across the country in British Columbia, start-up wineries found it already planted in the vineyards they purchased: “Our vineyard is 19 acres, and about three of it is Gamay, which was planted in 1986, making it respectably old,” says Andrew Melville of The Hatch Winery in the Okanagan Valley. Gamay is considered more of a companion than a headliner. But it’s potential that Melville sees: “I think it could be a
White pepper, raspberry and black cherry, with a nice spiced middle and long fruit-forward finish. CAVE SPRING GAMAY 2016, ONTARIO ($16)
Fresh and fruity with raspberry and cherry driving this wine; white pepper and red peppercorns also give it a pleasant savouriness. MALIVOIRE SMALL LOT GAMAY 2016, ONTARIO ($19.95)
Full-on cherry that just pops right out of the glass and into your olfactories. The palate is simple yet elegant with red liquorice mixing it up with red and black cherry. JULY/AUGUST 2018 35
THE HATCH GAMAY 2016, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($25)
Black cherry, liquorice, smoky red cherry and an herbal finish that sneaks in some cassis. 13TH STREET SANDSTONE VINEYARD GAMAY NOIR 2014, ONTARIO ($30)
Blackberry, black cherry, cinnamon and herbal notes with hints of cassis.
Rich black cherry, sweet and sour black fruit hints of strawberry and raspberry on the mid-palate with good balancing acidity on the finish.
signature grape, not just in BC but in Ontario and even Nova Scotia and Quebec. I like the idea because while our regions are so distinct and diverse and we all do other things individually; this grape could be the national unifier.”
FEATHERSTONE GAMAY NOIR 2016, ONTARIO ($17)
AND HE MAY BE ONTO SOMETHING.
BACK 10 CELLARS EVERYTHING AT STAKE GAMAY 2017, ONTARIO ($25)
Red-fruit driven with a cherry blossom note that sits right on top, lifting that fruit to a level of elegance. 13TH STREET GAMAY 2016, ONTARIO ($20)
Plum, black cherry and strawberry with a delicate spicy finish. TRIUS GAMAY NOIR 2016. ONTARIO ($20)
Full-on red fruit with raspberry and white pepper taking centre stage. A wonderful expression. BELLA WINES CANADA VINEYARD SPARKLING GAMAY 2017, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($28)
Floral, raspberry and blood orange with a pleasant finish. Only 70 cases made. DEEP ROOTS GAMAY 2016, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($24)
Simple but tasty with blackberry, black cherry and smoked raspberry. RUST WINE CO. GAMAY 2017, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($22)
Sweet mid with red liquorice, raspberry and anise. Juicy middle and a long finish. Temptingly tasty. MALIVOIRE COURTNEY GAMAY 2016, ONTARIO ($28)
A multi-layered Gamay with anise, black cherry, strawberry, white and black pepper, leading to a lengthy spiced-fruit finish. STRATUS GAMAY 2015, ONTARIO ($29)
Juicy from start to finish: black cherry, anise, white pepper, and black pepper with cinnamon, and plum on the finish. Layered and lovely. PIPE DREAMS GAMAY 2015, BRITISH COLUMBIA ($26)
Anise, black cherry and redcurrants, with a savoury middle and long finish. CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES GAMAY NOIR DROIT 2016, ONTARIO ($19)
Floral with black cherry and black pepper. Easy drinking but this one still has a bite. 36 @ QUENCH_MAG
Many producers can’t imagine Canada without Gamay. “For us, we’ve long enjoyed Gamay from top producers such as Malivoire, Featherstone, Cave Spring, Henry of Pelham, 13th Street. With time, the Canadian marketplace will be ready for a soft, fruit-forward, fun but well-structured red wine that’s price accessible and food friendly,” says Andrew Brooks of Back 10 Cellars. “It’s Pinot Noir without the attitude!” It cannot be overlooked that the popularity of Gamay is primarily driven by winemakers, who gravitate towards the grape, its hardiness and food-friendly acidity. “Ultimately, it’s the ability to preserve both fruit and acidity in the extreme vintages that makes Gamay so rewarding to work with, and ideal for our climate. We can have major vintage variation, and yet the wines always end up with the right balance, even in the hot, dry years … At its core, Gamay is instantly charming. It’s hard for me to describe another variety like that,” supposes Shiraz Mottiar, the winemaker at Malivoire Wine Company. Angelo Pavan believes we can fill another unique void in the wine world: “We have a chance to establish Niagara’s red wine identity with [Gamay]. It complements Cabernet Franc really well in this regard, since both grapes are rarely produced as mono-varietal wines in the New World and [are] quite rare in Europe.” One thing is for sure. We have some serious Gamays being made in this country, which means there’s only one thing left to say: #GoGamayGo. ×
PILLARS OF THE by Jordan St. John
COMMUNITY
I have long suspected that the main thing the best-selling beers on the market have going for them is familiarity. Take a brand like Molson Canadian, for example. Introduced in 1959, the beer has been advertised to Canadians for nearly 60 years. Everyone recognizes the name and the logo, but would you recognize the brewers if you passed them on the street? Chances are you wouldn’t.
JULY/AUGUST 2018 37
ALICIA MACDONALD, BREWMASTER AT PORT REXTON BREWING ON TRINITY BIGHT, 3 HOURS FROM ST JOHN’S, NEWFOUNDLAND
There’s a level of alienation that accompanies large-scale brewing. For the vast majority of beer’s history, it was produced locally. Brewer was a job held by someone within your community. Consolidation at the beginning of the 20th century meant that the number of breweries dwindled while their size grew exponentially. Products became homogenous as brewers focused on universal appeal and shipped products made centrally to many different locations. The difficulty is that people don’t live universally; people live specifically — on a street in a neighbourhood in a town with its own problems and challenges. At a point in history where we curate playlists on Spotify and have any number of options for interacting with the world via our smartphones, it makes sense that drinkers crave a galaxy of options in terms of beer styles. At the same time, however, small breweries are popping up in communities across Canada, businesses that contribute to a sense of local pride because they are enmeshed in the day-to-day life of wherever they are based. The personality a brewery displays can be a result of their place within the community or the community’s place within the world. Take Port Rexton Brewing on Trinity Bight in rural Newfoundland. Nearly three hours from St. John’s, Port Rexton is nestled amongst some of Canada’s most beautiful landscape. With a population of only 350, the inclusion of a local brewery would not normally make sense, but it adds an attraction to the tourism boom that occurs each summer as people visit the 38 @ QUENCH_MAG
Skerwink Trail. Better yet, being housed in a disused schoolhouse and community centre means that the brewery blends seamlessly into the fabric of the town. For all that, Port Rexton Brewing is anything but quaint. It is, after all, one of Newfoundland’s first modern-era craft brewers, with a different sensibility than Yellowbelly or Quidi Vidi in St. John’s. As one of the first brewers in Newfoundland to make a modern American style IPA (“Horse Chops” is named after a nearby rugged outcrop), Port Rexton’s beer is in demand during the winter months when its taproom is shut down. The solution has become a retail shop in St. John’s, open Fridays and Saturdays, that only serves to build the reputation of the Port Rexton taproom as a destination for locals and tourists alike. The lure is the ability to try terroir-specific beers like their Gardner’s Gose, featuring locally grown coriander and Newfoundland sea salt. Sometimes, a local brewery can result in an unprecedented level of local involvement. Meander River Farm and Brewery in Ashdale, Nova Scotia, came into being in 2014, at a time when the local community hall was being closed due to a lack of financial commitment. Despite only having three seats, the brewery’s taproom became a focus for local gatherings. “It’s great to be part of something,” says Campbell Bailey, the daughter of the owners, “and to be able to introduce people to each other.” The tasting room has expanded this year in order to keep up with demand. PHOTO OF ALICIA: JON STURGE PHOTOGRAPHY
REBELLION’S NEIL LUTZ, DAVE HOLOWATY AND ZAUL MCLELLAN PUTS REGINA, SASKATCHEWAN IN A GLASS
For Meander River’s Bailey family, the legacy is a long one. The farm has been in the family since the 1960s, but all of the children went their separate ways. In 2004, Alan and Brenda Bailey took over and their hop yard began to supply other breweries in the province by 2010. “It came at around the time of farm-to-table, when people were beginning to ask where their ingredients came from. In our first harvest, we invited the neighbours and they all turned up. Now, in August or September, they’re all there and picking and putting in the work and telling the newbies what makes hops so great.” As a mechanism for funding the brewery’s early expansion, Meander River used a Community Supported Agriculture model to offer tiered packages for consumption throughout the year, in some cases using the hops the members picked. “We sold out of all the shares. We’re doing a smaller version now, but it’s still most of the same members.” Support has grown. “The model brings people from all walks of life and different areas of the world. Every small town should have exactly what we have going on.” It’s not just small towns, either. Halfway across the country, in Regina, Saskatchewan, Mark Heise, the owner of Rebellion Brewing, has realized that a local brewery can be a force for good, helping to revitalize parts of a city that may not have fared so well over the course of the 20th century. Working with local organization Audacity YQR, a group focused on supporting local entrepreneurship, Rebellion has created a beer that specifically helps to fund the initiative. “It’s about the value add of entrepreneurship to millennials and immigrant populations. I think of it like an ecosystem. I want there to be more cool stuff.”
Whether it results in the hipster donut shop or artisanal butchery Heise imagines, it can be nothing but good for Regina’s agricultural connections. Rebellion wears this connection on its sleeve with one of its flagship brands, Lentil Cream Ale. With 20 percent of the fermentable material coming from AGT Foods’ King Red Lentil, Rebellion really has its finger on the pulses of the local agriculture scene. Crops are not the only resource being cultivated. Rebellion also features a Community Tap program where the brewery crowdsources ideas for new beers and charitable opportunities that will make life better for everyone in their town. Even without that initiative, breweries are helping. A recent study by Economic Development Regina suggests the small breweries in town have resulted in a $10-million addition to the local economy. For Heise, it’s at least partially about pride of place. “Saskatchewan has this ‘aw, shucks’ attitude. No one wants to brag or to be too proud. I say ‘let’s tell the whole world there’s awesome stuff happening here.” All across Canada, especially in rural parts of the country, brewers are discovering that they can be a part of the dayto-day life of their town and, in doing so, give people a sense of pride in where they live and in the connections that they forge with each other over something that is not quite as simple as a pint of beer. With connections to the land through ingredients, and to the past through repurposed buildings, there’s the sense of a rising tide accompanying the opening of a local brewery. × JULY/AUGUST 2018 39
BOUQUET GARNI NANCY JOHNSON
GRILLED CHICKEN WITH MANGO CILANTRO SALSA SERVES 4
THE HERB GARDEN I DON’T HAVE MUCH OF A GREEN THUMB BUT THIS YEAR I STARTED AN HERB GARDEN INDOORS, USING SEEDS. Surprisingly, it worked.
Once those tiny shoots were sturdy enough, I transplanted them outdoors, gave them plenty of sunshine and water, and fed them when they were hungry. Now I have a bumper crop of herbs: cilantro, dill, parsley, thyme, oregano, chives and basil. The wonderful thing about herb gardens is that they can be grown indoors at any time. Gardens give back in unexpected ways: It is humbling to see how beautiful and perfect nature is as your garden grows. Always an exciting challenge, you can always come up with recipes incorporating the food you have grown. It’s inspiring to know the numerous health benefits you receive by munching on your crop. And giving away what you can’t eat to friends and family is the best feeling of all.
40 @ QUENCH_MAG
Cilantro is an ancient herb, cultivated in Egypt and Greece over 5,000 years ago. With vitamins A, B and K, cilantro also delivers manganese, a mineral that promotes bone health. If cilantro tastes like soap to you, your olfactory-receptor genes are to blame. The OR6A2 gene picks up the smell of aldehyde chemicals, found in both cilantro and soap.
4 2 2
boneless chicken breast filets tbsp extra-virgin olive oil tbsp lemon juice Salt and pepper, to taste
MANGO CILANTRO SALSA
2 1 2 1 1/2 1/2 1/4
mangoes, peeled, seeded and cubed jalapeño, seeded and minced scallions, minced tbsp lemon juice tsp sugar cup cilantro, minced
1. Preheat barbecue grill on high. 2. Place chicken in a shallow dish. Rub with olive oil and drizzle with lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper. Marinate in fridge 1 hour. Remove from dish and grill, covered, 3 minutes. 3. Flip and continue cooking, covered, 3 minutes longer. Reduce heat to low. Cover and continue cooking about 6 minutes, flipping once, or until a meat thermometer registers 165˚F. 4. MANGO SALSA: In a medium bowl, gently stir ingredients together. 5. Place grilled chicken on platter. Spoon salsa over top of chicken. Garnish with additional cilantro. MATCH: Excellent with an Albariño from Spain. × SEARCH THROUGH A WIDE RANGE OF WINE-FRIENDLY RECIPES ON WWW.QUENCH.ME/RECIPES/
SUMMER’S BOUNTY GAZPACHO
Gazpacho is a refreshing cold soup native to Spain. It typically includes the season’s most beloved garden vegetables — tomatoes, cucumber, onion, garlic and bell pepper. In this recipe, aromatic dill serves as the soup’s garnish, adding an unexpected pop of flavour. Dill is a lovely, easy-to-grow herb and a good source of vitamins A and C plus calcium. Dill does not like to be transplanted, so it’s best to sow the seeds outdoors when the threat of frost has passed.
6 1 1 1/4 1 1/2 1 1 1/4
ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped English cucumber, peeled and chopped red bell pepper, chopped cup red onion, finely chopped clove garlic, minced cup tomato juice Juice of 1 lemon tbsp balsamic vinegar tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and pepper, to taste cup fresh dill, minced
1. In a large bowl, stir together tomatoes, cucumbers, bell pepper, garlic and onion. In a small bowl, whisk together tomato juice, lemon juice, vinegar and olive oil. Pour over vegetables. 2. In a food processor, purée half the mixture until smooth. Return to bowl. Chill in fridge 2 hours before serving. Ladle into bowls or frosted glasses. Garnish with dill.
BRINED AND GRILLED PORK CHOPS WITH SOUR CREAM CHIVE MASHED POTATOES
One of my favourite perennial herbs, thyme is part of the mint family. It’s believed to have anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties and may lower blood pressure and cholesterol levels. The ancient Romans consumed the herb to counteract poisoning and food contamination. In Medieval times, it was thought to foster courage and ward off nightmares. It’s a good source of vitamins A, B6 and C, as well as riboflavin, copper, calcium, manganese, folate, phosphorus, potassium and zinc.
6 1/4 1/4 1 1 6
cups water cup cider vinegar cup brown sugar tbsp fresh thyme, minced tsp kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper, to taste bone-in pork chops, 1-inch thick
1. In a large bowl, whisk water, vinegar, brown sugar, thyme, salt and pepper. Place pork chops in large food storage bag and pour in brine. Seal bag and refrigerate overnight. 2. When ready to grill, remove chops from fridge, discard brine and rinse chops in cold water. Pat dry with paper towels. 3. Meanwhile, preheat barbecue grill to medium. When grill is hot, turn off one side for indirect heat. Place chops over direct heat to sear, about 2 to 3 minutes per side.
4. Move chops to indirect heat and cover. Cook about 15 minutes or until meat thermometer registers 145˚F. 5. Transfer chops to platter and serve with sour cream chive mashed potatoes (recipe follows) and grilled zucchini.
SOUR CREAM CHIVE MASHED POTATOES SERVES 4 TO 6
Chives are the mildest member of the allium family, which includes garlic, scallions, onions and leeks. They’re rich in vitamins A, C and K, along with antioxidants and flavonoids, folate, niacin, potassium, iron, calcium, riboflavin and thiamin. Add them to scrambled eggs and omelettes, baked potatoes, sauces, soups and salads. Snipping chives with scissors is the easiest way to prepare them. Mashing potatoes can be tricky; add more or less milk, butter and sour cream, depending on how creamy you’d like your mash to be.
5 1/2 2 1/2 1/4
lbs baking potatoes, peeled and quartered cup milk tbsp butter, softened to room temperature cup sour cream Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste cup snipped fresh chives
In a large pot, cover potatoes with water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium high and continue boiling, uncovered, about 35 to 40 minutes or until tender. Drain potatoes. With an electric mixer, mash potatoes, milk and butter. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in sour cream and chives. Garnish with additional chives. MATCH: Uncork a rich Chardonnay, Pinot Noir or Gamay (see page 35).
SUMMER PASTA WITH ROASTED CHERRY TOMATOES, FETA CHEESE AND BALSAMIC GLAZE SERVES 4
1 3 1 1/4 1 4 1/2 2
package penne rigate tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, divided tbsp butter, melted cup fresh basil, chopped tbsp fresh oregano, chopped Salt and pepper, to taste cups fresh cherry tomatoes cup feta cheese tbsp fresh parsley, minced Balsamic glaze
1. Cook pasta according to package directions. Drain. Place in large bowl. Add 1 tbsp olive oil and butter, basil, oregano, salt and pepper. Stir to coat. Set aside and keep warm. 2. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 450˚F. Toss cherry tomatoes with remaining 2 tbsp olive oil. Place on a rimmed baking sheet. 3. Roast, turning once, until tomatoes are blistered and beginning to burst, about 15 to 20 minutes. Gently stir into pasta. 4. Garnish with feta cheese and parsley. Drizzle with glaze. MATCH: Pinot Grigio is a nice accompaniment.× JULY/AUGUST 2018 41
BUYING GUIDE All wines listed are recommended by our experienced panel of tasters. Each wine is rated based on its varietal character, representation of style and/or region, balance and price-quality ratio. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Browse our experts’ tasting notes to find the wines that may appeal to your taste or pique your interest to try something new. Afterall, one of the best parts about wine is the discovery. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and will likely vary from province to province. A large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, so check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability. Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Crystal Luxmore, Tara Luxmore, Treve Ring, Tim Pawsey, Silvana Lau, Craig Pinhey and Jonathan Smithe. *Available through private import and wine clubs
SPARKLING JACOB’S CREEK CHARDONNAY PINOT NOIR BRUT CUVÉE, AUSTRALIA ($14)
Floral, fresh lemon citrus and a suggestion of berry fruit on the nose make way for green apple, citrus and background red berry on the medium weight palate. Zesty acidity and moderately dry finish make this an ideal bargain priced fizz for party occasions or to enjoy as an apéritif anytime. (SW) SEGURA VIUDAS RESERVA BRUT, PENEDÈS, SPAIN ($15)
Pale straw in colour with a minerally, chalky, lemon and green apple nose; light to medium-bodied, dry, slightly earthy, green apple flavour with good length aided by citrus acidity. (TA) PETER WEBER BRUT AC CRÉMANT D’ALSACE NV, FRANCE ($16)
Made from Chardonnay. Pale yellow with a 42 @ QUENCH_MAG
myriad of tiny bubbles, more effervescence than sparkle. Fairly strong nose of yeast, apples and cultured butter. Light-bodied, slightly sweet, tasting of McIntosh apples with a squeeze of lemon. (RL)* EVOLVE CELLARS FRIZZANTE 2017, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($20)
Easy drinking sparkler with rose petal, tropical and honey notes up front before a light and lively palate of orchard fruits, peach and lychee with a touch of ginger spice before a clean finish. Think mild curries or just plain fun sipping. (TP) CAVES SÃO JOÃO BRUTO RESERVA 2015, VINHO ESPUMANTE DE QUALIDADE, BAIRRADA, PORTUGAL ($22)
Caves São João was established in 1920 by brothers José, Manuel and Albano Costa. After initially specializing in selling Douro wines, they turned their focus on their home region of Bairrada. This reserva bruto is a classical method dry, toasty blend of Bical, Chardonnay, Maria Gomes and Arinto, fermented in stainless before a
× FIND A COLLECTION OF TASTING NOTES FOR WINE, BEER AND SPIRITS AT WWW.QUENCH.ME/THENOTES/
EMANDARE PINOT NOIR 2015, COWICHAN VALLEY, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($45) HAND HARVESTED, FERMENTED AND AGED IN NEUTRAL FRENCH OAK, UNFINED, UNFILTERED. MORE SIGNS OF GOOD THINGS TO COME, VERY PURE FRUIT EXPRESSION WITH LIFTED RED BERRIES, MEDIUM BODIED PALATE WITH SOME EARTHY AND FOREST FLOOR HINTS AND A DEFINITE MINERAL STREAK. TBY TIM PAWSEY
year on lees in bottle. Ripping acidity lifts bitter lemon, pear skin, green fruits, dried chamomile flowers, with a finish verging on harsh due to the bracing acids. Suitable for an apéritif with olives, anchovies or bacalhau croquettes with aioli. (TR) JUVE & CAMPS CAVA BRUT ROSÉ NV, PENEDÈS, SPAIN ($23)
Made from free-run juice with a 12 hour maceration of Pinot Noir grapes, the sparkling is bright cherry in colour with an abundance of candied cherry and strawberry aromas and flavours, delicate bubbles, slightly creamy texture and a nice, slightly bitter leesy quality. Good with smoked salmon, chilled crab or poolside. (GB) BERNARD MASSARD CHARDONNAY BRUT NV, LUXEMBOURG ($23)
Very pale. Chalky nose with apple/pear notes. Light taste, soft mid-palate with a bit of residual sugar to round off the acidity, the taste is not sweet at all. Clean finish on a fruity note. Drink soon. (GBQc) VARICHON & CLERC PRIVILÈGE BLANC DE BLANCS NV, AC SEYSSEL, SAVOIE, FRANCE ($24)
The official proclamation of the small
AOC Seyssel in 1973 (only 220 acres under vine) was the first sparkling wine AOC in France after Champagne. This was très bon for Varichon & Clerc. Winemaking in Seyssel is recorded for the first time in the 12th century (1145) and further developed under the monks from the 14th century onward and where Varichon & Clerc was later established in 1901, making them one of the region’s oldest and most important wine houses making Traditional Method fizz. They were purchased by the Boisset family in the 1990s. This is a blend of Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Chenin, Chardonnay and Jacquère, aged for 15 months on the lees and given a dosage of 12 g/l. Though Brut, the sugar sticks out here, first on the nose (fruit loops) and then on the palate, slapping candied peach, light toast, dried mango on a sharp, crunchy palate. Though acidity is high, intention is valid and the framework is good, this falls a bit on the bittersweet orange finish. I’d love to see some of their drier fizz, where the fruit isn’t jockeying for position with the RS. Best enjoyed with a good chill. (TR) PIUZE NON DOSÉ MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE, FRANCE ($24)
Canadian winemaker Patrick Piuze is
well known for his great Chablis — now he is venturing into bubbles with very good results. Pale golden yellow colour. Nose of tropical fruits (pear, quince), biscuit and a light mineral scent. A hint of rancio appears in the glass to add complexity. Quite dry on the palate with a ripe, clean fruity taste. Cleansing acidity, not without finesse in the mid-palate. Finish is short and compact, very flavourful. 100% Chardonnay (as in Chablis!). (GBQc) CASEBIANCHI LA MOTTE VINO SPUMANTE BLANCO DOSAGGIO ZERO 2016, VINO SPUMANTE, CAMPANIA, ITALY ($25)
Bitter lemon, elderflower and pear fill this light, natural, biodynamic pet nat from Campania. Brusque acidity lifts Fiano’s soft palate to a faintly humming, sour citrus finish. No sulfur, undisgorged and unfiltered, the winery recommends mixing the lees into the wine (tilt upside down gently a few times) before opening. La Matta means ‘the crazy one’ in Italian; perhaps a few folks thought Elisabetta and husband Pasquale were a touch crazy to leave their home in Naples to take over her aging father’s farm in Torchiara. But the couple wanted to raise their children JULY/AUGUST 2018 43
BUYING GUIDE connected to the land and now are in charge of farming the 5.5 ha of biodynamic vines on the 14 ha property. (TR) FIRST FRUIT: WORLD OF FOG PÉT-NAT 2017, NIAGARA ($25)
There is a gentle mousse in the glass, a light copper colour and some cloudiness, but not to the extent of last year’s sparkler. It is beautifully aromatic with pulpy citrus, fuzzy peach, grapefruit and with wonderfully funky, yet subtle, notes of smoke, gunflint and ginger/lychee. It’s bright and expressive on the palate with electric acidity and a slight reductive/mineral note to go with citrus, melon, crushed peaches and fresh-stomped grapes. (RV) JUVÉ & CAMPS RESERVA DE LA FAMILIA CAVA GRAN RESERVA BRUT NATURE NV, PENEDÈS, SPAIN ($29)
Pale gold in colour with a steady stream of fine bubbles, a yeasty citrus character on the nose, flavours of ripe white fruit puree, fennel and fresh herbs, creamy texture, bright acidity and a saliva-inducing finish. A blend of Macabeo, Xarello and Parellada. Try with sushi. (GB) CHANDON CALIFORNIA BRUT, UNITED STATES ($29)
Very pale, initial burst of bubbles only lasts around the rim. Pleasant nose of apple/pear with biscuit and a dry stone scent. Light taste, delicate acidity and flavours. The short but clean finish is only a tad bitter. Ideal as an apéritif with salty munchies. (GBQc) RINALDINI PJCOL ROSS LAMBRUSCO BRUT NV, VSQ LAMBRUSCO, EMILIA-ROMAGNA, ITALY ($32)
Forget about the sweet and candied 44 @ QUENCH_MAG
Lambruscos of your past. This is serious, dry, handmade metodo classico (traditional method) from the ancient, rare and endangered original Lambrusco grape: Pjcol Ross. The Rinaldinis are the only producer of Pjcol Ross varietal wines today, a grape that exists in only three vineyards. It was rediscovered by Rinaldo Rinaldini in the 1970s when he took over the vineyard. This tiny family-owned winery is between Reggio Emilia and Parma in Emilia-Romagna at the foothills of Matilda de Canossa. This is full of balsamic-imbued black plum and pitchy thorns, with a tight fist of stony spice from the core to the brisk finish. Bubbles are slight, acidity is high, tannins are grippy and the feel is rustic authenticity. This spent one year on the lees and is a solid match for wild pork or boar. (TR) VENTURI SCHULZE BRUT NATUREL 2013, COWICHAN VALLEY, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($32)
100% Pinot Auxerrois from some of the oldest and organically grown vines on the Island, this 28th vintage, traditional method and dry bottle fermented offers aromas of orchard fruit and yeasty notes, well structured with fresh, crisp green apple skin flavours on a bright and lively palate. Under crown cap, from the first BC winery to pioneer the closure in lieu of cork. (TP) GARDET BRUT RESERVE CHAMPAGNE NV, FRANCE ($34)
Medium-deep gold with lots of sparkle. Medium-intensity nose of ripe apple, toast and yeast. On the palate, this is light, crisp and dry, with flavours of more apples and lemon leading to a long
bitter almond and brandy finish. Drink any time. (RL)* PIERRE GIMONNET BRUT CUIS 1ER CRU BLANC DE BLANCS CHAMPAGNE, AC CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($70)
This understated 1er cru is impressive. Didier, third generation of the Gimonnet family, oversees this small Côtes des Blancs grower Champagne house. This wine, like all of their Chardonnay-centric wines, is crystal crisp and bright, with driving linearity through to the lingering finish. Five different harvests in the cuvee provide depth and complexity to this 1er cru, though the base is youthful, keeping the freshness and the piercing acidity of Cuis prominent. This bottle was disgorged in January 2015, showing notes of maturity. Nougat, green apple, sea salt, elderflower and lemon open onto schisty complexity, showing a base of brioche dough, with chalky purity, vivacious intensity and a shimmery, saline-laced lemon pith to the finish. Chardonnay’s pure elegance and finesse, with a shadow of bottle age, perfectly expressed. (TR) FREIXENET CAN SALA CAVA DE PARAJE CALIFICADO 2007, PENEDÈS, SPAIN ($75)
Complex, elegant and refined Cava with baked bread, peach, vanilla and honey. Full bodied with penetrating flavours and a clean, dry finish. A blend of Parellada and Xarello. Complex enough to serve with pork or poultry dishes. Cava de Paraje Calificado is a new category of vintage Cava for which, among other requirements, the grapes must be vinified on the estate from a single parcel with distinctive characteristics. (GB)
WHITE
with ripe orchard fruits, lychee, ginger and honey notes. (RV) KUTATÁS WINES ORTEGA 2015, NORTH SAANICH, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($19)
$20 AND UNDER
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AUSTRIA RABL KITTMANSBERG GRÜNER VELTLINER 2016, KAMPTAL ($17)
Austria’s signature grape Grüner Veltiner produces a wonderfully versatile white wine for matching with food. In its dry form, it has a nose of green peach and lemon with a note of white pepper and a thread of minerality. Straw-coloured with a hint of lime, this medium-bodied, dry wine finishes on a note of green apples. (TA)
Sustainably farmed and hand harvested, wild yeast and partially barrel fermented, upfront floral notes with intense fruit and focused varietal expression, with extra heft from the barrel and extended lees aging. (TP) 50TH PARALLEL ESTATE GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2017, NORTH OKANAGAN ($20)
Lifted notes of citrus and tropical notes precede a structured palate defined by balanced fruit and acidity with luscious flavours of passion fruit and rose, hints of sweetness kept well in check through a lingering, clean finish. (TP) 50TH PARALLEL ESTATE RIESLING 2017, NORTH OKANAGAN ($20)
CANADA BARTIER BROS. SÉMILLON 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($18)
From a west facing limestone and granite layered slope on lower Black Sage Road. Lifted waxy, nutty and floral notes precede a taut, focused palate with keen acidity. Well textured with citrus, orange and mineral undertones. A superb example of what the Okanagan can do with this variety. (TP) HENRY OF PELHAM ESTATE RIESLING 2016, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($18)
Pale straw in colour with a minerally, slightly smoky, honeyed grapefruit bouquet and a light floral note; light-bodied, off-dry, grapefruit and lime flavours with a touch of honey for balance. Long lemony finish of mouth-watering acidity. (TA) HENRY OF PELHAM FAMILY TREE WHITE 2016, NIAGARA ($18)
This is an unusual blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, Gewürztraminer and Chardonnay Musqué with 40% of the fruit barrel fermented and aged in oak for 8 months. It’s quite fragrant with notes of pear, lychee, peach, apricot and a lovely floral and spice accent on the nose. It’s rich and spicy on the palate
From a steep, southwest facing slope high above the lake. Upfront green apple and stony notes before a luscious, mouth-filling palate with vibrant lime and citrus wrapped in bright acidity underpinned by a mineral streak with a lingering end. (TP) MAVERICK ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($20)
A truly Okanagan expression of the variety, leaning more towards tropical, stone fruit and citrus notes, supported by a freshness driven by juicy acidity, in part thanks to the west valley site, a cooler-than-usual July and good late summer diurnals. Lychee and lime on the palate play off a mineral streak through a lingering fresh, clean and fruity end. Exceptional value and primed for patio living. (TP)
CHILE CONCHA Y TORO SERIE RIBERAS GRAN RESERVA CHARDONNAY 2016, COLCHAGUA VALLEY ($19)
Lots going in the glass! Toast, vanilla, pineapple, peach, cream, yellow apple, yeast and spice. It is soft in the mouth with a protracted finale. Wine for lovers of New World/oaked Chards! (ES)
FRANCE CAVE VINICOLE DE HUNAWIHR RIESLING 2015, AOC GRAND CRU OSTERBERG ($20)
Clear medium yellow. Fairly intense aromas of grilled pineapple and lime. Full-bodied, tasting of caramel apples and lime custard with a long finish. Superlative value. A worthy accompaniment to rich sausages or fine aged ham. Will keep for several more years. (RL)*
GREECE BOUTARI MOSCHOFILERO 2016, MANTINIA ($13)
Light straw in colour, this fragrant wine has a bouquet of orange blossom and musk melon. Medium-light body, it presents a dry flavour of green melon with tangy, lemony acidity, which gives the wine a long, lingering finish. Great value. (TA) SANTO SANTORINI ASSYRTIKO 2016, SANTORINI ($15)
Medium straw in colour with a minerally, spicy, leesy, apple-pear bouquet; medium-bodied, dry, lemony, crab apple flavour with a minerally, slightly bitter finish. (TA)
ITALY E. VON KELLER PINOT GRIGIO 2016, AOC ALTO ADIGE ($17)
Polished, clear, medium-yellow. Forward nose of cantaloupe, pineapple and banana. Full-bodied and full-flavored, but in an elegant way, restrained by tart Italian acidity. Tastes of peaches, apricots and more melon with a slightly bitter finish. Will relax and improve a bit with another year or two. Showed a remarkable affinity for goat’s milk Brie on sour rye crostini. (RL)* MORELLINO DI SCANSANO SCANTIANUM VIOGNIER 2016, IGT TOSCANA ($17)
Clear medium-gold. Average intensity nose of candy apple, apricot and roasted peach. Full-bodied and rich but with a nice touch of Italy in the tartness and slight minerality. Drink to 2019. (RL)*
JULY/AUGUST 2018 45
BUYING GUIDE ATTEMS PINOT GRIGIO 2016, IGT VENEZIA GIULIA ($20)
A surprisingly soft Grigio with a mineral core which supports the peach, yellow plum, apple and citrus. Put a good chill to it and serve this summer on the patio. Very good to excellent quality. (ES)
market for its Porcupine Ridge Syrah but this Chardonnay is also a great buy. Light straw in colour, the wine has a woodsy, apple nose with a floral grace note; it’s medium-bodied, dry, faintly smoky with pear and lemon flavours. (TA)
GERMANY SPAIN
NEW ZEALAND SNAPPER ROCK MARLBOROUGH PINOT GRIS 2016, MARLBOROUGH ($17)
When it comes to white wines, New Zealand offers more than just Sauvignon Blanc. Here’s a Pinot Gris from Marlborough that’s worth picking up. Light straw in colour, it offers a peach pit nose with lemon and mineral notes. Medium bodied and dry, imagine a dish of sliced peaches and apples – that’s the flavour you experience. The wine has a lovely texture and an engaging bitter-almond note on the finish. (TA)
UNITED STATES TOM GORE CHARDONNAY 2015, CALIFORNIA ($20)
A well-priced California Chardonnay. Golden straw in colour, it offers a spicy, clovey nose of ripe apple and pear; rich and full on the palate with a sweetness of fruit at the core balanced by lively acidity. (TA)
CASTELO DO MAR ALBARIÑO 2016, RÍAS BAIXAS ($18)
A deliciously crisp, dry white wine with a bright straw colour; minerally, lemony notes rise from the glass at first sniff. It’s medium-bodied, dry with a floral, peachy flavour and a lively citrus finish. A versatile wine for fish and seafood. (TA)
46 @ QUENCH_MAG
Almost colourless with grey reflections and traces of CO2. Light, discreet nose mostly floral with a mineral edge and hints of apple/pear. Very light on the palate, mineral taste, slightly sweet with balanced acidity and a bit of bitterness in the short finish. Drink up. (GBQc)
THALIA SAUVIGNON BLANC/VILANA NV, CRETE ($10)
ARGENTINA PIATTELLI RESERVE TORRONTÉS 2016, CAFAYATE VALLEY ($15)
The Torrontés grape from Argentina is so fragrant you don’t know whether to drink it or slap it on as after-shave. It smells of orange blossom and cardamom, rather like a dry Muscat from Alsace. That intense aroma is matched by the flavour of a cantaloupe melon. (TA)
SOUTH AFRICA
Boekenhoutskloof is better known in our
LOOSEN BROS. DR. L RIESLING 2016, MOSEL ($15)
GREECE
RECOMMENDED
CANADA
BOEKENHOUTSKLOOF PORCUPINE RIDGE CHARDONNAY 2016, FRANSCHHOEK ($15)
and herbs. There is a savoury note on the palate to go with tropical fruits, herbs and fresh-cut citrus with tingling acidity on the finish. (RV)
LAKEVIEW CELLARS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, NIAGARA ($19)
A balanced approach to savvy here with a nose of grapefruit, citrus, gooseberry and tropical fruits with hints of grass
Bright, pale straw colour. Minerally, herbaceous, a bouquet of green plums with a graphite note; medium-bodied, crisply dry, green plum and grapefruit flavours with a light floral note. Lively acidic finish. A bargain at the price. (TA)
ITALY BATASIOLO GAVI 2015, DOCG DEL COMUNE DI GAVI GRANÉE ($19)
Aromatic green grape and a light trace of mineral with green fruit flavour evolving towards crisp green apple on the palate. Lively acidity and gravelly mineral round out the finish. Atypical Gavi, not as austere as in more typical vintages. Once again reflecting the ripeness of 2015 throughout many European wine regions. (SW)
XAD
CAPS SOMMELIER TO COME MAY 25 Niagara-on-the-Lake
BUYING GUIDE UMANI RONCHI CASAL DI SERRA VERDICCHIO 2015, VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI DOC CLASSICO SUPERIORE ($20)
Vibrant floral, citrus and green fruit scents resolve on the medium weight palate to green apple and lemon citrus flavours, with a drying lick of mineral and brisk, food-friendly acidity. (SW)
NEW ZEALAND HÃHÃ SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, MARLBOROUGH ($19)
In the Maori language, HãHã means savoury and luscious. That pretty much sums it up. Bright straw in colour, it offers a grassy, grapefruit and apple nose with a mineral note. Medium bodied and crisply dry, flavours of gooseberries and green beans carried on zesty acidity fill the palate. (TA)
is a new line from Boutinot in their ever-expanding reach of affordable, wellmade, excellently packaged wines from around the globe. They do particularly well with South Africa, finding interesting pockets of grapes and working with local vintners to make well priced, tasty wines. Like this, sourced from the foothills of Paarl Mountain, the second largest granite outcrop in the world (after Oz’s Ayers Rock). Decomposed granite is hinted through the stony minerality woven in this wine. Bright and sunny with a steely backbone, streaming lemony acidity and heaps of green: apple, peas, asparagus, grass atop a fine layer of lees. The finish snaps to attention with zesty spice. This is a youthful, sunny wine for drinking now. (TR)
$20.01 TO $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
PORTUGAL AUSTRALIA QUINTA DA LIXA AROMAS DAS CASTAS ALVARINHO/TRAJADURA 2016, VINHO VERDE DOC ($17)
Very pale green in the glass, with aromatic green fruit, green herbal scents and a whiff of grapefruit. Light spritz in the mouth with green plum, gooseberry and green grape flavours, finishing with an agreeable touch of gritty mineral. (SW)
SOUTH AFRICA BOUTINOT SUN & AIR SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016, WO COASTAL REGION ($13)
Capturing the warm sun of South Africa and the cool coastal breezes, Sun & Air 48 @ QUENCH_MAG
WAKEFIELD ST. ANDREWS CHARDONNAY 2015, CLARE VALLEY ($35)
A gorgeous Chardonnay from South Australia. Light straw in colour with a spicy apple and citrus nose showing some barnyard notes; medium- to full-bodied, dry, richly extracted tropical fruit flavours with a tangerine note on the finish. (TA)
AUSTRIA OTT AM BERG GRÜNER VELTLINER TROCKEN 2016, NIEDERÖSTERREICH QUALITATSWEIN ($28)
Opens with elegant floral scents, peachy
stone fruit and a pinch of white pepper. Generous white peach and apricot flavours emerge on the palate supported by racy acidity and stony mineral, resolving into a long, satisfying stone fruit finish. Exemplary wine from Wagram’s acknowledged star producer. (SW)
CANADA VENTURI SCHULZE SIEGERREBE 2016, COWICHAN VALLEY, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($21)
From one of the original Island wineries, organically grown, hand-harvested vines yield honey, floral and citrus notes on top before a racy, crisp and clean mineral-toned dry palate with zesty undertones. (TP) QUAILS’ GATE CHARDONNAY 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($23)
All estate-grown fruit, mainly stainless steel fermented yields vibrant orchard and stone fruits up front before a generous but well-balanced palate of pear, peach and apple with a little extra body from partial neutral oak. With oak kept well in check, the fruit prevails throughout perked up by freshness and juicy acidity through the close. Excellent value. (TP) MISSION HILL RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2014, VQA OKANAGAN VALLEY ($23)
The nose shows varietal Chardonnay lemon citrus with delicate floral scents and a subtle touch of toasty oak. Ripe citrus and secondary green apple flavours are supported by well-balanced, crisp acidity and a pleasantly rounded, buttery note on the finish. Shows Okanagan
regional style. Better value than many generic California Chardonnays in a similar price range. (SW) RATHJEN CELLARS PINOT GRIS 2016, COWICHAN VALLEY ($24)
This new farm-based winery concentrates on sustainable practices and uses only Island fruit with minimal intervention. Aromas of pear and apple before a textured and quite generous palate with extra body from neutral oak and time on lees. (TP) KUTATÁS WINES PINOT GRIS 2016, CENTRAL SAANICH, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($25)
A unique take on the variety, whole bunch pressed, barrel fermented, and lees aged with minimal intervention. Lifted orchard and citrus notes up front, with a well-structured palate, well-managed oak, excellent creamy mouthfeel and good length. Arguably an unabashed and very successful nod to Chardonnay. (TP) EMANDARE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017, COWICHAN VALLEY, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($30)
From a Certified Naturally Grown vineyard a couple of kilometres from the water. Think a million miles from Marlborough! Made from the oldest planting of Sauvignon Blanc on Vancouver Island. Not grassy but definitely some appealing gooseberry notes with melon and orchard fruits wrapped in bright, lively classic Island acidity. (TP) WESTCOTT VINEYARDS ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2016, VINEMOUNT RIDGE ($30)
A round and textural Chardonnay that has seen quality oak treatment with peach, apple, honey, cream, tangerine, vanilla and spice. Excellent length and a perfect partner with grilled lobster. A must purchase for Chardonnay lovers! (ES)
oak texture. Delicate fruity notes in the mid-palate. Only an unnecessary tad of bitterness is felt in the finish, without it, it would be truly great. Drink or hold 2 to 3 years. (GBQc) JOSEPH DROUHIN CHABLIS 2015 ($32)
Opens with refined floral and lemon citrus scents, shifting to characteristic Burgundian green apple as well as citrus notes on the palate. Finishes with chalky mineral and crisply balanced acidity. Simple elegance and reliable consistency from Drouhin. (SW) DOMAINE JEAN BOURDY CÔTES-DU-JURA BLANC 2012, AOC CÔTES DU JURA ($33)
Beautiful Jura. The Bourdy family has been growing vines and making wine in Jura since 1475, just east and south of the gloried Cote D’Or. This is biodynamically farmed alpine Chardonnay, native fermented and without inputs during the 4 years spent in barrel, under flor. Pointed almond, sea salts, lemon and elderflower, lined with a tight, steely mineral backbone that runs the sleek frame. Acidity is nervy and attention is pointed, drawing your attention sip after sip after sip ... Best when able to open and relax at cellar/room temperature, this is one of those memorable wines that sets your compass. (TR)
GERMANY DR. PAULY-BERGWEILER BERNKASTELER BADSTUBE RIESLING SPÄTLESE 2015, MOSEL ($30)
Starts off with a nose of honey, spice, peach and lemon, and then transitions into a mouthful of lime, apple, citrus and mineral. Medium sweet with solid acidity. Serve alongside medium spiced curries. (ES)
ITALY
Pale yellow. Pure notes of yellow fruits and white flowers with refined oak. The sharp acidity is rounded off by the fatty
NEW ZEALAND LOVEBLOCK SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017, AWATERE VALLEY, MARLBOROUGH ($29)
Though you may not be familiar with Loveblock, the winery based in the Lower Awatere Valley of Marlborough, you most certainly have heard of its owner and winemaker, Kim Crawford. After achieving sizable success with his eponymous label, Kim and his wife Erica sold that winery, and after some well-deserved rest, opened this personal wine farm. Their estate vineyards grow on the hills of the Awatere, collecting freshness via altitude and breezes. Organically farmed, most of this wine spent its time in stainless, with 7% aged in neutral French oak for 6 month (also undergoing MLF). Unmistakably Kiwi savvy and inherently Awatere, with its cooler, fresher profile of white grapefruit, lemon pith, starfruit, pineapple rind and lime. A fine layer of lees coats the palate and buffers the intense acidity and fruit. Shy, this is not, but balanced it is. (TR)
PORTUGAL
FRANCE FEUILLAT-JUILLOT LES GRAPPES D’OR 2015, MONTAGNY, BURGUNDY ($28)
(liberally). The pixelated minerality will spill out of the glass, carried with subtle and alluring reductive notes, pine nuts, lemon thistle, meadow herbs, quince blossom and pear skin. Etna Bianco Superiore can only come from the village of Milo, embracing and facing the sea breezes from 700 m altitude. This is 40-year-old Carricante (with 10% other autochthonous grapes) that is harvested early and spends 10 months in stainless. The finish lingers with seawater freshness and salted citrus. Serious wine; best enjoyed at cellar temperature and with octopus, scallops or white fish now, or better yet, your cellar. (TR)
BARONE DI VILLAGRANDE ETNA BIANCO SUPERIORE 2016, DOC ETNA BIANCO SUPERIORE ($35)
This is a wine that benefits from time and not over chilling; let this relax and unknit in the glass some before drinking
NIEPOORT DIÁLOGO BRANCO DOURO 2016, DOC DOURO ($25)
This youthful white may feature a comic on the label, but make no mistake, this is a serious wine from one of the world’s top winemakers, Dirk Niepoort. From schistous, mica-flecked vineyards on the right bank of the Douro, between 550-700 meJULY/AUGUST 2018 49
BUYING GUIDE tres, this blend of indigenous Portuguese white grapes is native fermented in a split between stainless and older French barriques (30%), no MLF, where it remains for 8 months. In 2016, the blend is 20-50 year old Rabigato, Códega do Larinho, Gouveio, Dona Branca, Viosinho, Bical and others. Tight, mineral-laced green fig, lemon thistle, meadow herbs and fine salts over a creamy bed of lees, all youthful and highly quaffable. This line of Fabulous Wines (Branco and Tinto) are sold worldwide, the scale of which makes this wine even more impressive — especially considering the price. (TR)
SPAIN COFAMA VINS CLOS DE DIA 2016, DO TERRA ALTA ($17)
Gentle peach, pear gummies, melons, orange blossoms fill the fleshy, soft palate of this Garnatxa Blanca (White Grenache). Typical of the grape, this is wide and low in acidity. 20-year-old grapes from Terra Alta in northern Spain are kept in stainless and meant to be drunk young and fresh. White grapefruit and bright orange is strung throughout to the snappy finish. (TR)
UNITED STATES UNITED STATES FRANCISCAN CHARDONNAY 2015, NAPA VALLEY ($26)
A well-priced Napa Chardonnay with the oak influence of cinnamon and vanilla working in tandem with banana, yellow apple, pineapple and cream. There is sound acidity that gives lift. Pair with fish tacos topped with tropical fruits salsas. (ES)
RECOMMENDED AUSTRIA
MORGAN BAY CELLARS CHARDONNAY 2016, CALIFORNIA ($18)
Lemon citrus, a whiff of grapefruit and a hint of butterscotch on the nose rounds out on the palate with creamy lemon citrus and a light splash of butterscotch balanced by refreshing acidity. (SW) LIBERTY SCHOOL CHARDONNAY 2015, CENTRAL COAST, CALIFORNIA ($22)
Mellow ripe citrus and yellow pear scents carry through in the mouth with a touch of barley sugar, light mineral grip and clean, balanced acidity. (SW)
50 @ QUENCH_MAG
ALDERLEA VINEYARDS PINOT GRIS 2016, COWICHAN VALLEY, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($23)
Sustainably farmed on a south facing slope. Some 26 hours of skin contact imparts a pretty copper hue, a hallmark of this long established Island producer. Aromas of stone fruit and citrus precede a juicy, quite full-bodied palate with orange citrus and tropical hints through a lingering finish. (TP)
SPAIN MARQUÉS DE RISCAL BARÓN DE CHIREL VERDEJO 2015, CASTILLA AND LEÓN ($82)
From pre-phylloxera vines over 100 years old, the wine is bright on the nose and dense, textural and powerful on the palate while still maintaining an incredible drinkability due to its balance and acidity. Long and complex, a great example of a white wine that can easily stand up to and complement red meat. (GB)
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
LOIMER GRÜNER VELTLINER 2016, KAMPTAL ($25)
Light floral scent with grapefruit and white pepper shifts on the palate to stone fruit and tropical fruit supported by characteristic mineral grip. Grapefruit note on the nose reprises with a touch of tartness on the finish. (SW)
Aromas of orchard fruit and almond announce a mouth-filling, generous palate of apple and pear notes wrapped in toasty but understated and well-integrated oak, with a streak of minerality and a still fresh, lengthy end. (TP)
CANADA QUAILS’ GATE ROSEMARY’S BLOCK CHARDONNAY 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($45)
A flagship salute to the winery’s founding matriarch, from Westbank Estate vines.
ROSÉ CORNELLANA ROSÉ 2014, CACHAPOAL VALLEY, CHILE ($9)
A blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with some Merlot and a little Syrah.
XAD
ADAMO IN FOLDER
BUYING GUIDE HESTER CREEK TERRA UNICA OLD VINES MERLOT 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($33) CRAFTED FROM SOME OF THE OLDEST VINIFERA VINES IN THE OKANAGAN VALLEY, THE GRAPES WERE PLANTED OVER 50 YEARS AGO. IT HAS SUCH A BEAUTIFUL NOSE OF BLACKCURRANTS, LAYERED DARK CHERRY, ELEGANT OAK STYLINGS AND COMPLEMENTING EARTHINESS. FINEGRAINED TANNINS CARRY A RANGE OF DARK AND RED FRUITS ON THE PALATE, ALL BOLSTERED BY EARTHY/SAVOURY/MEATY/SPICY NOTES ON A LONG, LONG FINISH. TBY RICK VANSICKLE
Clear rusty copper colour. Medium-intensity nose of raspberry and strawberry. Full-bodied for a rosé, with lots of sweet ripe raspberry and a taste of lemon meringue. Fruit is fading though — drink yesterday. (RL)* CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES CUVÉE D’ANDRÉE ROSÉ 2016, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($16)
Deep pink in colour with a bluish tint. A nose of fresh raspberries; medium-bodied, dry, raspberry and wild strawberry flavours, fruity with balancing acidity. (TA) BARTIER BROS. ROSÉ 2017, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($18)
An intriguing (and hard to deduce) blend of Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Cabernet Franc yields a pretty pale rose colour in the glass. Aromas of crushed red berries such as cranberry and subtle wild strawberry lead to a palate defined by mouth watering juicy acidity, brightened with lively fruit flavours through a clean, dry close. (TP) 52 @ QUENCH_MAG
50TH PARALLEL ROSÉ 2017, NORTH OKANAGAN ($19)
Made from 100% estate grown Pinot Noir, with lifted red berry notes, hints of wild strawberry and cherry, bright acidity with some elegant Pinot hints on the juicy, refreshing palate. (TP) WHEN PIGS FLY PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2017, NIAGARA ($20)
It shows a pale salmon colour in the bottle and glass, with a refreshing nose of savoury red berries and a subtle note of quince. It’s crisp and dry on the palate with an array of red fruits that show some complexity and dimension — not easy to do with this style. *Full disclosure, this wine is from a project developed by Quench contributor Andre Proulx. (RV) CLOS SIGUIER LA MALICE ROSÉ DU SIGUIER NV, VIN DE FRANCE, CAHORS ($22)
Unlike most of Cahors, planted on the flat plains, Clos Siguier is on the highest limestone plateau 500 m high on the hilltop village of Bagat. Clos Siguier was founded in 1779 and it has been in the Bley family
ever since. Bley allows this wine to do as it pleases; some years it is bone dry, other years it has a swing of residual sugar. This year is the latter, with a bump of strawberry jam coring pink florals, chamomile, baby wipes and some sweet candied orange. There is a swing of balsamic in this natural wine along with a tightened finish. All in all, disjointed vintage that works less than his other wines. (TR) JOSEPH MELLOT SINCÉRITÉ PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2015, IGP VAL DE LOIRE, FRANCE ($24)
The Mellots have been growing vines and making wine in the Loire Valley since 1513. The investment has paid off; today, Joseph Mellot is the only estate that owns vineyards in every appellation of the Loire. Wines in their second line, Sincerité, are sourced from numerous estate vineyards across the region. Medium coral hue and medium body with dried florals, red berries, green raspberry spicing and brisk acidity carrying this herbal-hued wine to a snappy finish. Friendly for food and solo sipping too. (TR)
LA KIUVA ROSÉ DE VALLÉE NV, VALLE D’AOSTA DOC, ITALY ($25)
After a 12-hour maceration, this saignée method rosé completes fermentation before 6 months in stainless steel tank and a 2-month stint in the bottle before release. Gushes of watery and youthful raspberry, strawberry, redcurrant on a medium, bright palate, ending with an appropriately bitter, salty rasp. Cured meats, salty alpine cheeses, lardon-laced salads would welcome this wine. Not overly complex, nor does it need or pretend to be. It’s ideal just as it is. (TR) HEIDI SCHROCK BISCAYA ROSÉ 2016, NEUSIEDLEREE-HÜGELLAND, AUSTRIA ($26)
Biscaya is a bisque, and this savoury wine takes its name from the hardy regional dish. This is a cofermented field blend of organic Lagrein, Teroldego, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon from the low hills of Lake Neusiedl, near Rust, and from vines averaging 25 years in age. The palate is thick with glycerol, enabling this streamlined wine to glide with pomegranate, redcurrents, pomegranate and cherries to a tangy, spiced finish. This is confidently idiosyncratic, serious with a bump of sugar, and it works. (TR) TWO SISTERS ROSÉ 2017, NIAGARA ($35)
This mostly-Merlot blend shows a pale pink colour with notes of crushed red berries and cranberries in a refreshing style on the nose. It has pop on the palate with an elegant mélange of red fruits that are all together presented in a dry, refreshing style. Good juice. (RV)
RED
not has a spicy, earthy nose of rose petals and raspberry candy. Medium-bodied and deceptively dry, the flavours of sweet raspberry and pomegranate fill the mouth. A beautifully balanced wine with a lovely mouthfeel. (TA)
CANADA WILDASS MERLOT 2016, NIAGARA ($19)
Combine a top-notch vintage with one of Niagara’s top producers (Stratus) and you have a value-priced red that will serve you well this upcoming BBQ season. This Merlot possesses a medium body and bouquet of cherry, plum, smoke, cocoa and herbs. It is concentrated with fine tannins and excellent length. (ES)
CHILE
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA ANIELLO 006 RIVERSIDE ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2016, PATAGONIA ($18)
Cherry red in colour, this delicious Pi-
CORNELLANA CUVÉE GRAN RESERVA 2013, CACHAPOAL VALLEY ($20)
Cabernet Sauvignon. Clear but opaquely deep garnet. Medium nose of dates and ripe figs with some smoky and vanilla overtones. Very fruity on the palate with blackberry and cherry fruit, raisins, dates and more vanilla. Ready to drink now. Classic with roasted red meat and mushrooms. (RL)*
FRANCE
CORNELLANA RESERVE PINOT NOIR 2015, CACHAPOAL VALLEY ($12)
DOMAINE PEIRIÈRE PLATINUM MOURVEDRE 2015, PAYS D’OC ($12)
CORNELLANA WINEMAKER’S SELECTION BARREL RESERVE CARMENÈRE CABERNET FRANC 2014, CACHAPOAL VALLEY ($18)
CHÂTEAU DU GRAND CAUMONT CUVÉE TRADITION 2014, CORBIÈRES ($14)
Clear, very pale ruby red. Medium intensity nose with good PN typicity, raspberry, violets, redcurrant and almost sweet strawberry jam in good balance. Light and feminine. Drink now with pepper-crusted seared tuna. (RL)*
Clear medium-deep plum red. The unusual blend creates complex and interesting aromas of green bell pepper and herbs, smoke, black licorice, coffee. Full-bodied, tasting of blackberry jam, treacle toffee and oak, with a long finish. Will keep another year or two. (RL)*
MONTES ALPHA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, COLCHAGUA VALLEY ($20)
$20 AND UNDER
from Chile for your dinner table: this flavourful wine is dense purple in colour with a cedary, spicy nose of plum and blackcurrant with vanilla oak top notes. Medium-bodied and dry, blackcurrant flavours fill the mouth and linger for a long time. Just the wine for roast lamb. (TA)
Dense purple in colour. An intense nose of cedar, cigar box and blackcurrant with a floral grace note; medium-bodied, dry, richly extracted, ripe blackberry and blackcurrant flavours. Beautifully balanced and well structured with ripe, mellow tannins. (TA) J. BOUCHON BLOCK SERIES CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, MAULE VALLEY ($20)
Here’s a worthy Cabernet Sauvignon
Somewhat rare varietal. Clear very-deep purplish garnet. Aromas of raisins, dates, light molasses and coffee. Full-bodied with all the fruit of a warm year in the south of France. Ripe raspberry and cranberry flavours precede a tannic dry finish. Ready now. Good value. (RL)*
In France’s Languedoc-Roussillon region is an appellation called Corbières where they make bargain-priced red wines from Carignan, Syrah and Grenache. Château du Grand Caumont Cuvée Tradition Corbières 2014 is dense purple-black in colour — a testament to its richly extracted fruit flavours. It shows a spicy, herbal nose of blackberries. Medium-bodied and dry, it’s got a savoury taste of warm blackberries tinged with herbs and a lively acidic finish. Great value here. (TA) VALLÉE LOIRE CABERNET FRANC 2015, SAUMUR AC ($16.16)
Aromatic spicy plum, herbal and cherry scents yield to elegant red and dark fruit with a suggestion of raspberry in the mouth. Finishes with lightly firm tannic grip and acidity that is brisk but not overbearing. (SW) JULY/AUGUST 2018 53
BUYING GUIDE SOUTH AFRICA
BASTIDE MIRAFLORS SYRAH/VIEILLES VIGNES GRENACHE 2015, ROUSSILLON ($20)
Dense purple in colour, the nose is a cornucopia of blackcurrant, plum and cherry aromas. Medium to full-bodied, it fills the palate with cedary, black fruit flavours with notes of smoked meat and dark chocolate. This wine cries out for pepper steak. (TA)
ITALY
MONTERRA FLEURIEU PENINSULA NERO D’AVOLA 2016, FLEURIEU PENINSULA ($19)
I never expected to find Sicily’s premiere red grape growing in South Africa, but there you go. Deep purple-ruby in colour, this gorgeous red has a spicy nose of black plums and new leather with a lavender note. Medium-bodied and dry, it’s fleshy but elegant and well-balanced with a caressing mouth-feel. Amazing value here. (TA)
ALLEGRINI DI FUMANE VENETO ROSSO 2015, VENETO ($15)
A youthful slightly dusty nose of red cherries, licorice and a lightly cedary note; medium-bodied, dry, sour cherry flavour with lively acidity and ripe tannins. A versatile red for all Italian tomato-based dishes. (TA) RUFFINO AZIANO CHIANTI 2015, CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG ($20)
Opens with fleshy, spicy perfumed red cherry scents that evolve on the palate to generous bitter cherry flavour with firm tannic support and food-friendly acidity. Another easy to like example from the ripe ’15 vintage. (SW)
SPAIN TEMPERAMENTO BOBAL 2014, UTIEL-REQUENA ($18)
Bobal is a Spanish grape native to the Utiel-Requena region in Valencia. Its dense purple-black colour gives you a visual sense of its concentration of fruit flavour. The spicy, cedary, sandalwood nose of plums and cherries has a delightful floral note that follows through on the palate. Medium-bodied and dry, it has a flavour of crushed blueberries and red flowers that fills the mouth, carried on fresh acidity to a firm, tannic finish. (TA)
RECOMMENDED PORTUGAL
54 @ QUENCH_MAG
VIGNOBLE RIVIÈRE DU CHÊNE CUVÉE WILLIAM 2016, ST-EUSTACHE, QUÉBEC ($15)
Purplish. Ripe red fruits (cranberry, raspberry) with spicy oak notes. Light body, easy tannins with slight frizzante and bitter taste. Clean, short finish. Drink up. A blend of hybrid grapes Maréchal Foch, Frontenac, St. Croix and Marquette.(GBQc) CAVE SPRING CABERNET FRANC 2015, NIAGARA ESCARPMENT ($18)
An attractive price for a Franc of this quality. Linear, there is blackcurrant, raspberry, smoky tobacco and dried earth qualities. Mid-weight and very good length. Pasta, pizza and antipasti all the way! (ES) HESTER CREEK PINOT GRIS VIOGNIER 2017, OKANAGAN ($18)
A rich, ripe nose of grapefruit, lemon, peach and melon notes. It’s ripe on the palate with racy acidity, lovely melon and citrus fruits with just a kiss of honey on the finish. (RV)
CANADA
COMPANHIA AGRÍCOLA DO SANGUINHAL CEREJEIRAS TINTO 2016, LISBON ($11)
Lively, bright, juicy, fruity and fresh with red berries, soft tannins and a lip-smacking finish. Clean and easy without being simplistic. Extremely pleasurable and drinkable. A blend of Castelão, Aragonez, and Touriga Nacional. A killer value. This is your summer BBQ wine. (GB)
toast, black pepper, raspberry, cassis and spice. It is ripe and plush on the palate with soft tannins and lively acidity to go with ripe fruits, savoury spices and plenty of peppery/smoky notes through the finish. (RV)
EASTDELL BLACK CAB 2015, NIAGARA ($15)
This is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Baco Noir that changes, depending on the vintage, to keep a similar profile year to year. It has a smoky nose of cherry, bramble, vanilla
FRANCE 88 CHÂTEAU DU GRAND CAUMONT 2015, CORBIÈRES, LANGUEDOC ($13)
Deep ruby. Inviting nose of blackberries with light earthy notes. Velvety at first, the grainy tannins take over in the
full-bodied mid-palate leading to a dry finish of good length. Drink within 2 to 3 years. (GBQc) LA CHEVALIÈRE PINOT NOIR 2016, IGP PAYS D’OC ($13)
Bright ruby. Red berries (mostly raspberry and cherry) with spicy notes. Medium body, supple texture supported by mellow tannins and balanced acidity. Easy to drink, fruity and quite fresh. No need to wait. (GBQc)
GERMANY VILLA WOLF PINOT NOIR 2015, PFALZ ($15)
Spicy nose with small red berries notes and hints of earthiness. Light to medium body, soft texture, fresh fruity taste. Easy to drink, slightly bitter finish. Drink soon with soft cheeses or hamburgers. (GBQc)
GREECE BOUTARI AGIORGITIKO 2015, NEMEA ($15)
CHÂTEAU DU PIN 2014, AC BORDEAUX ($15)
Clear medium-deep garnet. Herbal nose from the Cabernet Franc, but one can also scent plums and light molasses. Tasty but simple flavours of raspberry and cherry. Drink now. (RL)* GEORGES DUBOEUF BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES 2015, BURGUNDY ($17)
Lively scents of spicy red cherry are accented with a pinch of dried savoury. Succulent bitter cherry flavour is backed by light tannic grip, food-friendly acidity and a splash of black chocolate. Classic Beaujolais to quaff with relish. (SW)
GABRIEL MEFFRE ST. VINCENT CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2015, RHÔNE ($17)
If you choose your wines by the seasons like your wardrobe, then here’s a great winter wine. Deep ruby in colour, it has a spicy blackberry and white pepper bouquet; medium-bodied, dry and firmly structured, it expresses sweet, ripe, red berry fruit. It marries well with red meat dishes, especially beef stew. (TA) CHÂTEAU PESQUIÉ VENTOUX LES TERRASSES 2015, AC VENTOUX PROTÉGÉE, RHÔNE VALLEY ($20)
Classic modern Rhône, dominated by Grenache and Syrah, and dusted with Carignan, Cinsault and Mourvèdre. The vineyards are around 300 m, on gravelly soils dotted with pebbles and limestone. One third of this sees time in used wood for 6 months. Ripe and fleshy raspberry, black cherry and mulberry are punctuated with waves of tar, resinous dried raspberry, new leather and ample black pepper. Tannins are grippy but cushy, housing the ripe fruit to a clipped, warm finish. (TR)
A cedary nose of vanilla oak, ripe plum, light spicy, floral, graphite note; medium-bodied, dry, red plum flavour with grainy tannins; nicely integrated oak and a firm tannic finish. (TA)
STOFILIA ESTATE MOUNTAIN FISH AGIORGITIKO 2015, NEMEA, PELOPENNESE ($19)
Opening with a prickle of spritz, this Agiorgitiko is bright sour cherry, plum and blackcurrant on an eager palate. The palate is silky, though tannins are powdery and dark cocoa dusted to a snappy, shorter finish. Sourced from deep clay soiled mountainous vineyards in Asprokambos and Psari, in Nemea, this was whole cluster fermented with 2 weeks on the skins, prior to 6 months in tank before bottling. (TR)
ITALY CORSI MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO 2014 ($15)
Clear deep plum red. Fairly intense nose of blueberry jam, cherry syrup, prunes and vanilla. Medium-bodied with high acidity, still-rough tannins and heat from the alcohol. Tastes of sour cherries with a slightly cherry-pit bitter, long finish. Needs another year. (RL)* TENUTA BARONE DI VALFORTE MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO 2014, DOC MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO ($18)
Crushed boysenberries, mulberries, black plums, medicinal cherry sides this Montepulciano from Abruzzo. Medium-bodied with a swell of acidity and finely gritty tannins to a smoked, bitter-cherry finish, welcoming lamb or pork loin. This was vinified in stainless before 10 months in French oak. The Sorricchio family has
owned the baronial fief of Valforte since the 13th century and the Tenute Barone di Valforte vineyards cover 42 hectares in various communes in the Teramo hills, a prized place for Montepulciano. (TR) CASTELLI DEL GREVEPESA CLEMENTE VII CHIANTI CLASSICO 2014, TUSCANY ($19)
A straightforward, well-made CC with sour cherry, plum, cassis and tobacco. Medium body with high acidity and suave tannins. Perfect for that weeknight pasta or pizza meal. (ES) MASI SEREGO ALIGHIERI PODERI BELLO OVILE 2013, IGT ROSSO DI TOSCANA ($19)
Scents of plum and cherry accented with peppery notes shift to rather sour bitter cherry flavour, moderately firm tannins and still rather aggressive acidity in the mouth. Needs more time but will it come around? (SW) ALLEGRINI VALPOLICELLA 2015, VALPOLICELLA DOC ($20)
Classic nose shows warmly scented spicy red cherry with a light green herbal overtone and darker, bitter-cherry flavours emerging on the palate. Tannins and acidity are harmoniously balanced, making for ideal current drinking. (SW) MASSERIA SURANI HERACLES PRIMITIVO 2015, IGT PUGLIA ($20)
100% Primitivo, fermented in stainless before 10 months in oak. Rustic, ripe and compact, with ample ragged tannins housing black, sinewy fruits, dark chocolate cherry, olives and bitter anise. The finish is drying and you can feel the burning heat of the sun even in a surprising 13.5 degrees alcohol. Best matched with hearty ragù or red meat stews. (TR)
SOUTH AFRICA BOUTINOT SUN & AIR CINSAULT 2016, WO COASTAL REGION ($13)
Boutinot has found a welcome niche seeking out pockets of authentic and affordable wines from South Africa, pairing them with credible winemakers, marketing them smartly, and getting them to the Canadian market — none of which is an easy feat. This duo (there is also a white wine JULY/AUGUST 2018 55
BUYING GUIDE in the range) is named for the abundant sunshine and marine-freshened air of WO Coastal Region. This is a youthful and juicy Cinsault from a majority of 65-year-old dry farmed bush vines across the Cape (with a great chunk from Paarl). Raspberry, rhubarb, brambly blackberry, dried tobacco are streaked with smoke and brightened with a crunchy acidity and a peppery finish. Tannins are tucked away, allowing the fruit to poke through to the flush of warmth on the finish. This shows best with a slight chill and when poured beside a grilled burger or ribs. Great price. (TR)
UNITED STATES CHARLES SMITH WINES THE VELVET DEVIL MERLOT 2015, COLUMBIA VALLEY, WASHINGTON ($20)
As the name suggests, this is a velveteen and plush Merlot, with ripe blackberry jam, cushy plum and cherry blossom. Tannins are soft and nubby at the finish, closing out the dry palate and ending on a short, pinched blueberry note. This everyday Merlot requires meat to show its best; think burgers or ribs. (TR)
$20.01 TO $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
estate Zweigelt was native fermented in neutral oak and small tanks. Highly perfumed black raspberry, downy thorns, underbrush, mushrooms, wild strawberry, potent white peppery channels down a medium-bodied, streamlined palate. There’s a slim mud of tannins around the sides that houses all this earthy, forested savouriness to a dusky cherry finish. Zweigelt is a friendly, bright grape and here shows all of its earnest charm. (TR)
AUSTRALIA DANDELION VINEYARDS LIONHEART OF THE BAROSSA SHIRAZ 2016 ($22)
If you like bold red wines with body and heft, try this Barossa Shiraz 2016. Dense purple in colour, it exudes a spicy, smoky, savoury bouquet of blackberries and black cherries. It’s full-bodied, fruit-driven and chewy – a wine for pepper steak or rich casseroles. Worth cellaring for a couple of years to allow the tannins to soften. (TA) DE BORTOLI VILLAGES PINOT NOIR 2012, YARRA VALLEY, VICTORIA ($31.28)
Sourced from three premium Yarra Valley vineyards and matured in French oak, this one offers sound varietal character showing dark cherry with subtle spice, fine-grained tannins, a touch of oak and good weight and balance. Well-integrated, with medium-long finish. (SW)
AUSTRIA MEINKLANG ZWEIGELT 2015, BURGENLAND ($30)
Meinklang is one of the darlings of the natural/hipster/sommelier set and this wine lives up to its darling reputation. Biodynamically grown (Demeter certified) 56 @ QUENCH_MAG
oak notes and a light floral uptick. Medium-bodied, dry, oaky, creamy, sandalwood, plum and currant flavours with a dark chocolate note carried on lively acidity to a firm finish. Drinking well now. (TA) BARTIER BROS. MERLOT 2016, SOUTH OKANAGAN ($24)
The purest varietal expression delivers aromas of blue and red fruit with smoky and mocha hints, before a medium to full-bodied palate. Well structured with a touch of minerality, approachable tannins and juicy acidity, generous mouthfeel with a lengthy fruit-driven end. (TP) LAKEVIEW CELLARS SYRAH 2013, NIAGARA ($25)
Shows an expressive nose of cherry, pepper, cassis and a range of spice and earth notes. It has lovely ripe red and dark fruits on the palate with spice, peppercorns, smoke and earthy/savouriness on the finish. (RV) QUAILS’ GATE PINOT NOIR 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($27)
Hand harvested from primarily 20-yearold vines, aged 10 months in French oak. Forward notes of vibrant red fruit and herbal hints precede a juicy, well structured, medium-bodied and quite plush palate, with a pleasing savoury streak before a lengthy close. (TP) HONSBERGER ESTATE CABERNET FRANC 2015, NIAGARA ($27)
CANADA HENRY OF PELHAM CABERNET/MERLOT ESTATE 2012, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($21)
Deep ruby in colour. Spicy, cedary nose of blackcurrant and cherries with vanilla
A bright, juicy, brambly nose of raspberries, herbs and light spice notes. This is drinking Franc punctuated by an array of red fruits, underlying herbs and earth with good acidity keeping it lively and fresh through the finish. (RV)
MALIVOIRE STOUCK MERITAGE 2014, LINCOLN LAKESHORE ($30)
Another super Stouck (vineyard) wine! This Meritage, which is Merlot dominant, doles out the chocolate, coffee, smoke, cassis, plum, cherry, herbs and baking spice. Full bodied with a concentrated palate and a great finish. Drink over the next 5 years. (ES) WESTCOTT VINEYARDS ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2016, VINEMOUNT RIDGE ($30)
The warmth of 2016 has created a fruit-driven, forward Pinot with cherry, plum, blackberry, violet, anise, red flowers and vanilla. Soft in the mouth with subdued tannins and a long aftertaste. Medium rare duck breast with a cherry glaze please! (ES) VINELAND ESTATES BOTEEK CABERNET FRANC CLONE 327 2015, TWENTY MILE BENCH ($35)
Made from a mono clone of Cabernet Franc vines that were planted in 1996. On the full end of the spectrum, this Franc delivers up a bouquet of raspberry, cassis, cherry, tobacco, sweet herbs and violets. There is a sweet core of fruit on the mid-palate and finale which echoes raspberry. (ES) CLOUDSLEY PINOT NOIR 2015, NIAGARA ($35)
This “village” Pinot has a gorgeous nose of perfumed and bright cherry fruit, raspberry bramble, subtle and integrated spice with underlying minerality. It’s bright and finessed on the palate with impeccable balance, evident tannins and pretty red fruits all carried on a long finish. (RV)
FRANCE GABRIEL MEFFRE LAURUS 2014, CÔTESDU-RHONE-VILLAGES AOP ($21.80)
Typical southern Rhone blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, showing perfumed red and dark fruit overlaid with peppery spice. Expansive, generously ripe blackberry and raspberry flavours fill the mouth, supported by solid tannic structure, good weight and deftly balanced acidity. Well-integrated fruit, spice and a
judicious touch of oak round out the finish. Satisfying robust wine to drink with spicy grilled red meat dishes. (SW) JEAN-PAUL BRUN LE RONSAY BEAUJOLAIS 2016, AC BEAUJOLAIS ($22)
#GoGamayGo. Brilliant value for this young Beaujolais, an “entry tier” wine composed of young vines (still 20+ years) and made through the same low-interventionist philosophy that governs all of legendary Jean-Paul Brun’s wines. Rock roses, wild raspberry, white peppercorn and sapid herbals rush through this lean, charming, light-bodied and highly quaffable wine. Tannins are bamboo fine, housing this to a peppery finish. Honest, characterful, authentic; I challenge anyone who says they don’t like Gamay to not like this real wine. (TR) GEORGES DUBOEUF BEAUJOLAIS BROUILLY, BEAUJOLAIS ($25)
Deeply scented black cherry with peppery spice leads the way for succulent dark bitter cherry flavour supported by velvety tannins and appetizing acidity. A delicious, satisfying, easy drinker. (SW) FAIVELEY BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR 2015, BURGUNDY ($26)
An amped-up basic Bourgogne that benefited from the warmth of the 2015 vintage. Cherry, raspberry, plum, anise and red flowers. Medium body, elegant with lots of flavour echoing on the finale. Substantial value and a great intro to the world that is Burgundian Pinot Noir. (ES) CHÂTEAU VIEUX LARTIGUE ST-ÉMILION GRAND CRU 2010, BORDEAUX ($32)
Ruby with tiled rim. Fine nose with delicate notes of red fruits and spicy oak. Nice freshness on the palate, supple yet full-bodied with velvety tannins. Finish is long and very expressive. Ready to enjoy. (GBQc) JEAN-MARC BURGAUD COTE DU PY RESERVE 2014, AC MORGON, BEAUJOLAIS ($35)
#GoGamayGo. Jean Marc Burgaud is one of the starlight young guns of new Beaujolais, founding his eponymous winery with his wife Christine in 1989. They farm only their own vineyards, the
heart of which are clustered in Morgon’s famed Cotes du Py (13 ha). His youngest vines are 50+ years old. Youthful plum, wild, thorny/grippy blackberry is braced with acidity and finely grippy tannins. Orange peel is prominent, as is astringent black tea, as is acidity. All this deftly sets off a youthful, medium-bodied and tight palate. 7 barrels made, ready for drinking now, but certainly structured for aging. Real wine. (TR)
ITALY TEDESCHI LUCCHINE VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2016, DOC VALPOICELLA CLASSICO ($23)
From the Lucchine vineyard at the foot of the Piedmont hills of the heartland of Valpolicella, this is a 25-year-old clay and limestone rooted blend of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara, Rossignola, Negrara, and Dindarella. Stainless fermented, then rested for a brief 2 months, this is a humble, charming Valpo with bright, sapid red fruit, perfumed florals, smoked stones, tobacco leaves, and fine, taut tannins to an alluring salt snap finish. Lower in alcohol (12.5 degrees), this charming, humble red is eager for a slight chill and to be paired with your pork or game birds. (TR) PRÀ MORANDINA VALPOLICELLA 2016, DOC VALPOLICELLA ($29)
Morello cherry, wild raspberry on this charming, light/medium bodied Valpo, with pretty florals, a tuggy tension around the sides and a juicy, buoyant acidity on the palate. The finish is light bitter cherry and savoury sapidity. Lovely confidence and finesse here from Prà, one of the region’s most progressive and interesting producers (and this is their “entry-level” red). This wine welcomes a chill and wild mushroom dish now, though is easily cellar-worthy short term. (TR) J. HOFSTATTER LAGREIN 2015, DOC SUDTIROL ALTO ADIGE ($33)
The 50 ha of the J. Hofstätter estate vineyards are ideally situated in South Tyrol, with vineyards along the steep slopes of both sides of the broad valley, and an impressive portfolio of red and white wines. JULY/AUGUST 2018 57
BUYING GUIDE They are one of the largest family estates in the region, now run by the 4th generation. Lagrein is indigenous to Alto Adige, and in their estate vineyards, the grapes for this wine was planted more than 30 years ago. Grapes are destemmed and crushed before 10 days’ fermentation in contact with the skins and solids, warming at the finish to extract additional dark florals and grip from Lagrein’s leathery skins. Chewy tannins are ample but handled well and integrated, very smartly suited to the black plum, damson berry, forest floor that coats the soft, downy, low acid palate, with persistent nutmeg and 5 spicing to the cola finish. I expected, and craved, more freshness here. (TR)
SPAIN CONDE DE VALDEMAR GRAN RESERVA 2008, RIOJA ($31)
Ruby/garnet. Red fruit notes, tea leaf, integrated oak. Fine taste, half-bodied, supple texture and great balance. The finish is very fruity, nice and elegant. Ready to drink. (GBQc)
RECOMMENDED CANADA LAKEVIEW CELLARS SYRAH 2015, NIAGARA ($25)
Classic Syrah aromas of black pepper, violets, herbs/mint, smoke and blackcurrant. Mid-weight with fine-grained tannins and great length. Serve alongside lamb gyros or pepper-crusted pork tenderloin. (ES) 58 @ QUENCH_MAG
CORNERSTONE CABERNET FRANC 2013, NIAGARA ($29)
Textbook CF with savoury red berries, toasted vanilla, oak spice, a light sprinkling of herbs and anise on the nose. Expressive on the palate with a range of brambly raspberry and cherry fruits, medium-plus tannins, licorice, campfire smoke, bay leaves and perky acidity through the finish. (RV)
It’s full-bodied, fruity but dry with coursing acidity that gives the wine its length of flavour. (TA)
OVER $35
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA LUIGI BOSCA GALA 2 2014, MENDOZA ($37)
FRANCE FAMILLE PERRIN PEYRE BLANCHE CAIRANNE 2015, AC CÔTES-DU-RHONEVILLAGES ($23)
Raspberry, blackberry and peppery spice. Big, juicy blackberry and raspberry flavours come with solid tannic structure and appetizing acidity, culminating in a well-integrated harmonious finish. Drinking well now but can benefit from another couple of years in the cellar. (SW) LÉON BEYER PINOT NOIR 2015, AC ALSACE ($26)
Sourced principally from established Eguisheim vineyards, this lighter style Alsatian Pinot offers classic varietal brick red colour with bright, spicy red cherry, dried herb and a light splash of milk chocolate. Has charm but could use another year or two in the cellar. (SW)
UNITED STATES RAVENSWOOD LODI OLD VINE ZINFANDEL 2015, LODI, CALIFORNIA ($22)
This Old Vine Zin is deep ruby-purple in colour. The nose is spicy leather and black plum with cedary oak notes.
This high-quality Bordeaux blend from Bosca unleashes the blackberry, plum, sweet cherry, raspberry, mint, vanilla, anise and toast across the senses. Full-bodied and layered with a grippy finale. Drink over the next 10 to 12 years. (ES)
AUSTRALIA TOLPUDDLE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2016, COAL RIVER VALLEY, TASMANIA ($85)
Beautifully aromatic, with cherry, spice and savoury notes that continue on the palate. Elegant, fresh and silky with excellent balance and focus, supple tannins and character-filled while maintaining approachability. The long, lifted finish and bright acidity make this an excellent and versatile wine to pair with numerous styles of cuisine. Grilled rabbit and duck are a natural match. (GB)
CANADA BURROWING OWL SYRAH 2015, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($45)
An extravagant and polished Syrah with wall to wall blackberry, blueberry, cherry compote, black pepper, violets and vanilla.
REIF ESTATE SHIRAZ RESERVE 2016, NIAGARA ($27) A LOVELY NOSE OF CASSIS, SMOKE, BLACK PEPPER, COCOA, OREGANO AND PURPLE FLOWERS. THE SAME CARRIES OVER ONTO THE TASTE BUDS WHERE THERE IS SWEETNESS TO THE FRUIT AND A GREAT FINALE. MEDIUM PLUS BODY WITH SUBDUED TANNINS MAKES FOR AN IDEAL PAIRING WITH MOUSSAKA OR LAMB BROCHETTES. TBY EVAN SAVIOLIDIS
Full-bodied with a protracted finale and refined tannins. Lovers of New-World reds will fall in love with this beauty. (ES) CEDARCREEK PLATINUM MERITAGE 2014, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($45)
A richly extracted, mouth-filling Bordeaux blend. Dense purple in colour with a floral, cedary, plum bouquet; medium-bodied, cedary-sandalwood, red plum, currant and cherry flavours; firmly structured, with good length. (TA) CLOUDSLEY HOMESTEAD VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2015, NIAGARA ($50)
Now, here is a Pinot that sneaks up on you and then surprises for its depth and complexity. Slightly closed/muted on opening but it slowly reveals a mélange of crushed red berries, mineral, wet earth, forest mushrooms and subtle spice. Such gorgeous mouth-feel as it opens up with precision, silky tannins and electric acidity that lights up the bright red berries, subtle cassis notes, elegant spice and deep mineral notes that are all delivered on a long and juicy finish. (RV) QUAILS’ GATE RICHARD’S BLOCK PINOT NOIR 2016, OKANAGAN VALLEY ($55)
From specially selected estate blocks, in honour of winery founder Richard Stewart, who also planted some of the valley’s
first Pinot. A blend of four hand-picked, classic Dijon clones vinified separately. Aromas of dark berries, earthy and savoury notes supported by measured oak, elegant, silky and well integrated tannins that still allow freshness and acidity to shine through. (TP) ALDERLEA VINEYARDS MERLOT 2015, COWICHAN VALLEY, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($26)
A true rarity from often unforgiving Vancouver island, these 15-year-old vines are sited on a hot spot on rocky soils. Impressive red and black fruit with toasty notes up front precede a luscious, well-rounded palate supported by approachable, well integrated tannins with lingering vanilla and floral notes to close. (TP)
FRANCE FAIVELEY MERCUREY LA FRAMBOISIÈRE 2014, BURGUNDY ($36)
Light ruby. Enticing, expressive nose of red berries and pastry cream, developing cinnamon notes. Noticeable acidity carries the light to medium body mid-palate. The very fine tannins have minimal grip, sustained by mild bitterness that brings stone fruit’s character to the finish. Already great with a potential of 7 to 8 years. (GBQc)
CHÂTEAU LATOUR À POMEROL 2014, POMEROL, BORDEAUX ($105)
Full ruby. Elegant nose, mix of red fruits and luxurious oak. Half- to full-bodied mid-palate, delicious taste, very fruity and harmonious balance thanks to fully integrated oak. Finish is full, round and very elegant. Classy and ready to drink but it will hold well too. (GBQc)
ITALY MARCHESI ANTINORI VILLA ANTINORI RISERVA CHIANTI 2012, CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG ($36)
Refined, elegantly perfumed, developed fruit with subtle spice and a hint of oak introduce concentrated dark cherry flavours backed by fine, though still firm, tannins and slightly aggressive acidity. Drinking well now with food but will reward further cellaring up to 2022. Antinori continues to deliver authentic style and quality in its Chianti Classico range. (SW) SANTA MARIA COLLEONI ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2014 ($43)
In 1995, on an evening walk through their new Montalcino property, Marino Colleoni and his wife Luisa came across an abandoned vineyard of Sangiovese Grosso. JULY/AUGUST 2018 59
BUYING GUIDE Though many vines were dead or damaged, some remained intact and they decided to produce wines from the find, with their first harvest in 2000. They immediately began organic viticulture, respecting the higher elevation marine/volcanic marl soils, and their wines see native ferment, no fining and no filtration. This wine fermented for approximately 1 month in Slavonian oak, before 1 year in wood and an additional 6 months in bottle prior to release. Dusky balsamic-kissed cassis, thorny wild blackberry, dried marjoram and dried tarragon, with well-worn leather, dried florals and nutmeg on the finish. Lifted and moderate in body and scope, at 13 degrees alcohol, but savoury and rightfully self-assured. Consider this as declassified Brunello, and stock up. (TR) SILVIO NARDI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2012, TUSCANY ($45)
Not the biggest Brunello I have ever had, but a textbook rendition with raspberry, cherry, orange, plum, tobacco and earth. It still needs a year or two to come together. Roast leg of lamb would be brilliant with this wine. (ES) FEUDI DI SAN GREGORIO SIRICA 2014, CAMPANIA ROSSO IGT ($45)
Brooding dark plum, boysenberry is infiltrated with black pepper, tobacco, and subtle sapid resin in this alluring, medium-bodied red from Campania. Tannins are slender but astringently raspy, finishing with an herbal/medicinal echo. This is from the centuries-old Sirica grape, rediscovered by the winery’s agronomists. They found three giant plants, 200 years old, growing in Taurasi, and quickly determined they were not Agliancio, the dominant red in the area. DNA testing 60 @ QUENCH_MAG
showed traces of Refosco, Teroldego and Syrah, and the newly known grape was determined as Sicira (a name that Pliny the Elder referred to in ancient Roman times). The viticultural team did a selection to reproduce the plant and now the winery has near to 2 ha of Sirica vines. The wine is aged in barriques for 9 months, followed by a 9-month stint in bottle. This blends the newly planted 6-year-old plants with those growing for 200 years. (TR)
soil salts linger on the finish, brightening the finish. Rabbit, wild mushrooms would make an excellent pair. (TR) TENUTA SETTE PONTI ORENO 2015, TOSCANA IGT ($85)
Absolutely delicious! The deep ruby colour leads into a bouquet of blackcurrant, dark cherry, plum, herbs, cocoa, vanilla and coffee. Full-bodied and still sharply tannic, so hold until 2020 and then drink until 2040. (ES)
MARZIANO ABBONA TERLO RAVERA BAROLO 2011, PIEDMONT ($60)
I have had the chance to visit and taste at this winery on a couple of occasions and their commitment to quality is undeniable. This 2011 is a soft (for Barolo) and fruity offering with cherry, rose, dried flower, mocha and spice. Full-bodied, with a grippy finale and the 15% alcohol peaking out at the edges. (ES) CONTRADA SANTO SPIRITO DI PASSOPISCIARO ETNA ANIMARDENTE 2014, DOC ETNA ($80)
Contrada Santo Spirito is a project of Antonio Moretti Cuseri, the owner of iconic properties Tenuta Sette Ponti and Podere Orma in Tuscany and Feudo Maccari in Sicily. Morretti fell in love with the 14 ha estate planted to autochthonous grapes between 500-700 m, located between Passopisciaro and Randazzo, on the slopes of Mount Etna. This Nerello Mascalese is crafted from 60+ year-old ungrafted vines, fermented in wood and stainless, where it rested for 6 months. Anise, red liquorice, red florals, dried strawberry, worn leather, tobacco and walnut shells fill the textural, lighter-bodied palate, scented with raspberry, wild cherry, thorns, and gripped with herbal, fine hewn tannins. Subtle
NEW ZEALAND FELTON ROAD PINOT NOIR BLOCK 5 2012, CENTRAL OTAGO ($95)
An alluring nose with bright berry fruit, floral notes and spice with flavours of berries, currants, leather and pepper, a velvety texture and tight core with layered complexity and super refined tannins with a long, long finish that is lifted and lingering. Elegantly powerful. (GB)
SPAIN CVNE IMPERIAL GRAN RESERVA 2009, RIOJA ($55)
Dark ruby. Deep nose with black fruit notes buried under heavy oak. Full bodied, thick texture and chewy tannins. Balsamic notes start to appear in the mid-palate and continue into the long finish. Hold 5 years and drink over the next 5. (GBQc) GRATAVINUM GV5 2010, PRIORAT ($89)
Deep, bright colour with aromas and flavours of loads of black fruit, multi-layered, complex, graphite minerality and fresh with a tightly constructed core,
powerful, yet elegant and refined with fine tannins, bright acidity and a long lasting finish. Delicious and approachable now with some air, but will develop well for several years in the cellar. (GB)
UNITED STATES RAYMOND RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014, NAPA VALLEY ($43)
Crème de cassis, blackberry, spice, mint and vanilla are found in this vibrant and full-bodied red. Acidity is higher than you would expect and the tannins are rounded. Excellent length and priced right for a Napa Cab. A blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Petit Verdot, Malbec and Petit Syrah. (ES)
RECOMMENDED ARGENTINA BODEGA CHACRA PINOT NOIR TREINTA Y DOS PINOT NOIR 2014, PATAGONIA ($150)
Rich and fruity, bordering on overripe, with earth, spice and fresh herbs, slightly smoky with a mineral quality that keeps it from being overwhelming. A structured, well-constructed single vineyard wine from a vineyard first planted in 1932. (GB)
loads of time, the wine, as it is known to do, should continue to age nicely for years to come. A blend of Tempranillo, Graciano and Mazuelo. Think braised meats. (GB)
BEFORE & AFTER DINNER LUSTAU SOLERA FAMILIAR MANZANILLA PAPIRUSA SANLUCAR DE BARRAMEDA DO, SPAIN ($15/375 ML)
Pale green in the glass, showing distinctive saline aroma, green fruit and vaguely caramel character. Very dry in the mouth, with chalky green apple and nutty flavours together with a subtle trace of banana. Finishes with nutty dryness and sharp acidic bite. Drink well-chilled as an apéritif. (SW) LUSTAU SOLERA FAMILIAR FINO JARANA SHERRY DO, SPAIN ($24)
Pale straw colour with nutty and saline aromas. Bone dry on the palate with crisp, starchy, dry textured green apple, distinct saltiness and an austerely dry finish. A classic Fino best served well-chilled as an apéritif or with tapas, especially morsels of seafood. (SW)
CANADA FIELDING ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015, NIAGARA ($42.95)
Lots of grip to this youthful Cab. Cassis, smoke, game, herbs, violets and baking spice are at the core of this fuller red. Very good length and ideally it should be paired with a medium rare rib-eye steak. Drink over the next 5 to 7 years. (ES)
SOUTHBROOK THE ANNIVERSARY, NIAGARA PENINSULA ($30)
Aged Chardonnay underwent controlled oxidation in barrel for 7+ years and then fortified with grain spirit. Orange-amber in colour, this intriguing apéritif fortified wine has a nutty nose of dried apricots; medium-bodied with expressive flavours of fig, cashew nuts and orange peel carried on lively acidity. Great length. Reminded me of a youthful Madeira. (TA)
SPAIN FAUSTINO I GRAN RESERVA 2005, RIOJA ($45)
Aromas of dark fruit and spice, a little smoky, elegant, balanced and savoury with silky tannins, smooth texture, a firm structure and lovely freshness. Still has
ALVEAR PEDRO XIMÉNEZ DE AÑADA 2014, DO MONTILLA-MORILES, SPAIN ($30/375 ML)
A pierce of piney resin, orange oil, scrubby rosemary on this unctuous golden PX, one that bathes the palate with thick marmalade and auburn maple syrup.
Golden raisins and honeysuckle are flecked with walnuts and rancio notes through the exceptionally long finish. Acidity keeps this aloft, even with a staggering 435 g/l RS. This sweet, youthful wine is made with Pedro Ximénez grapes that were sundried on mats before aging in the traditional earthenware “tinajas” for at least 12 months. (TR) BODEGAS BARON XIXARITO MANZANILLA, DO SHERRY-JEREZ-MANZANILLA, SPAIN ($40)
This is a Manzanilla Pasada en Rama, with Rama indicating it was bottled with very light filtration, straight from the cask. Pasada tells us this is a richer, older Manzanilla, in which the flor has faded. This particular wine has an average age of 10 years. This still carries ample pre-oxidative freshness, with salted Marcona almonds, tight lemon pith and showers of chamomile. There’s a weight here that reflects its extended age, with a layer of worn wood to a bitter nutshell finish, lingering along with salts. This has the oily body to match with oily fish, like sardines, beautifully. (TR) POÇAS JUNIOR VINTAGE PORT 2013, PORTUGAL ($59)
Made from vines between 40 to 60 years old, this Vintage Port is black as night (as any good VP should be) and serves up a beguiling nose of blackberry, blueberry, cassis, mint, cocoa and coffee. The palate starts off lean and the expands on the finale with a massive explosion of crème de cassis that carries long. Drink over the next 25 years. (ES)
BEER & CIDER EASTBOUND BREWING MOONLESS NIGHT OATMEAL STOUT, TORONTO, ONTARIO ($3/355 ML)
Dark beers aren’t just for winter, especially when it’s a chocolately, 4.7% easy-sipping stout like this one. Aromas of fresh coffee grounds, plum and Tamari dance on a lightly creamy body before JULY/AUGUST 2018 61
BUYING GUIDE finishing on dark chocolate. Fire up the grill because this savoury stout is perfect for grilled salmon or beef burgers. (CL) PEOPLE’S PINT HELLES ISLAND AMERICAN LAGER, TORONTO, ONTARIO ($3/355 ML)
This brand new brewery has taken over Junction Brewery’s original spot on Cawthra Avenue. Its Helles Island could be your new favourite knock-’em-back lager. It drinks like a legit Old World Helles: fresh and clean with notes of white bread riding on a lightly creamy body finishing with a whisper of bitterness. Great with green salads and nearly anything sandwiched between a fresh baguette. (CL) ARDIEL CIDER HOUSE DRY APPLE CIDER, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)
This is an every day cider that highlights freshness and vibrancy with a subtle effervescence on the palate. The pure demisweet-and-tart apple flavours explode on the palate leaving a clean and finessed feel on the finish. (RV) FLYING MONKEYS LIVE TRANSMISSION MILKSHAKE IPA, BARRIE, ONTARIO ($3/473 ML)
Super herbaceous IPA smells like an herb and tomato garden in the tropics, thanks to the citrus peel, juicy hops and coconut white tea it’s brewed with. It’s kooky, inventive and bound to be a crowd pleaser. (TL) COLLECTIVE ARTS LOCAL PRESS APPLE CIDER, ONTARIO ($4/473 ML)
This is a well-made and refreshing cider with ripe notes of apple, pear skin, and just a hint of citrus rind to keep it refreshingly perky through the finish. It’s a nice beginning cider that shows the emerging Ontario style — dry, crisp and tart. (RV) 62 @ QUENCH_MAG
KLOSTERBRÄU, BAVARIA KLOSTER-SUD SPEZIAL BIER 5.4%, GERMANY ($5/500 ML)
Hazy amber colour. Dried orange citrus and nutty, yeasty aromas. Lightly sweet citrus shows spicy, raisiny overtones. Gentle nutty bitterness on the finish. An easy-to-like brew. Lots of flavour. (SW) BELLWOODS BREWERY RUNES IPA, TORONTO, ONTARIO ($6/500 ML)
Lupulin powder is the magical fairy dust of hops. It’s a resinous powder chock full of essential oils so it gives a big aromatic punch when it’s used in dry-hopping brews. That’s exactly how Bellwoods employs it here — but they do it twice to amp up the citrus, spicy pine and berry notes in this dank and hazy IPA. (CL) LE TROU DU DIABLE MACTAVISH ALE, SHAWINIGAN, QUEBEC ($6/600 ML)
Dark yellow, hazy. Nose of green hops with citrus notes. Tingling at first (the acidity...), it turns very smooth in the mid-palate. Refreshing bitterness in the great long finish. (GBQc) LE TROU DU DIABLE LE SANG D’ENCRE STOUT, SHAWINIGAN, QUEBEC ($6/600 ML)
Dark brown, thick, lasting light brown foam. Butterscotch, caramel and dark chocolate on the rich nose. Gently smooth in its attack, it becomes full and round in the mid-palate and finishes on a sweet caramel note with only a tad of bitterness. (GBQc) LE TROU DU DIABLE LES 4 SURFEURS DE L’APOCALYPSO, SHAWINIGAN, QUEBEC ($6/600 ML)
Dark yellow, generous lasting foam. Nice smell of hops and a cocktail of tropical
fruits (noticeable pear, banana and passion fruit). Light round body, slightly bitter throughout. Fresh taste in spite of a somewhat low acidity. Lasting finish. (GBQc) ROUGE RIVER BREWING COMPANY SOURSOP + TANGERINE SOUR, MARKHAM, ONTARIO ($6/500 ML)
Get ready for more soursop sour beers in Canada. The tropical fruit, aka Brazilian paw paw, graviola or custard apple, is the latest “it” fruit in sour beers because it’s got a tangy pineapple or strawberry flavour. This brew’s racy acidity helps the orange, apricot and lemon notes shine, finishing dry with zero bitterness. The acidity makes this beer fun to use in salad dressing ( just swap out some of the oil in your dressing) or sip it alongside fruit salad or nachos and guacamole. (CL) MASCOT BREWERY GOLDRUSH SOUR, TORONTO, ONTARIO ($6/500 ML)
Mascot’s brewmaster Siobhan McPherson (Mill Street, Amsterdam, Burdock) is boss, as is evident in her latest sour ale. Fermented with souring yogurt, this kettle sour’s lactic funk is balanced by refreshing cucumber, tart pineapple and a tingle of ginger on the finish. (TL) NORTHERN MAVERICK BREWING TART OF DARKNESS, TORONTO, ONTARIO ($7/500 ML)
Drinking some dark sour beers is like drinking coffee with lemon juice. Nope. Luckily Northern Maverick’s Tart of Darkness gets it right. This copper ale mixes notes of toast and toffee with tons of dark fruit — plums, fresh figs and sultanas — and a light, tarty kick. Easy drinking but not overly complex, it’s like a “starter” Flanders Red. (CL)
OL’ BEAUTIFUL BREWING CO. PEGASUS PALE ALE, CALGARY, ALBERTA ($7/650 ML)
This easy-drinking pale ale has a crackery malt bill with light aromas of citrus and perfumey florals, leading to a bready sip that leads to a crisp, lightly bitter finale. With talented young brewer Zoei Thibault at the helm, this brewery is set to open its doors in Calgary’s Inglewood neighbourhood later this year. (CL) DANDY BREWING COMPANY DANDY IN THE UNDERWORLD OYSTER STOUT, CALGARY, ALBERTA ($8/650 ML)
This award-winning stout isn’t made with oysters, but it sure pairs well with them. The dark brown stout pours a thick tan foam with a nose that mixes pumpernickel bread, fresh coffee grounds and light molasses on a chewy body. (CL) HALF HOURS ON EARTH FUNK LAND, SEAFORTH, ONTARIO ($11/375 ML)
This tiny brewery in Seaforth, Ontario is beloved by sour and wild beer fanatics in Ontario. It’s worth mail-ordering one of their aged, wild-fermented beers like Funk Land. Made from blending young and old beers: specifically a barrel-fermented dryhopped farmhouse ale with an 18-monthold sour ale aged in Chardonnay barrels. The result is heavenly: aromas of light farmhouse funk, lavender, white tea, mango and citrus mark the nose. The beer’s champagne-like carbonation and light fruity notes help balance a racy acidity. It’s vibrant, fresh and perfumey. (TL)
SPIRITS FORTY CREEK BARREL SELECT WHISKY, CANADA ($28)
Offers rich butterscotch, dried spicy fruit, a creamy textured palate with notes of caramel and vanilla, finishing with firm oaky dryness. A very good whisky and outstanding value. (SW) FORTY CREEK COPPER POT RESERVE WHISKY 43%, CANADA ($31)
Shows orangey fruit and spicy, lightly peppery notes on the nose, together with
an agreeable whiff of oak. Rounded and creamy on the palate, with dried fruit and a splash of vanilla, leading into an agreeable, lightly fiery spirit note, finishing with nutty dryness. (SW) TULLAMORE DEW IRISH WHISKEY, IRELAND ($32)
Deep copper colour; notes of honey, caramel, toast, vanilla oak on the nose; rich and full on the palate, sweetish, lovely mouth-feel, seductive, creamy, caramel flavour with spicy oak notes. Beautifully balanced with amazing length. (TA) FORTY CREEK DOUBLE BARREL RESERVE WHISKY 40%, CANADA ($60)
Elegantly scented nose reveals floral, spicy and caramel notes with a subtle pencil box overtone. Very rounded and smooth on the palate, showing citrusy dried fruit, caramel and sweet spicy notes. Dries out on the very long oaky and nutty finish. (SW) HARDY COGNAC VSOP, FRANCE ($67)
Spirity aromatics unfold notes of orange/ tangerine and lemon citrus, with dry oak and a whiff of burnt caramel. Orangey flavours open up on the palate with powerful spirity heat and a splash of Seville orange marmalade, closing with a long, fruity and dry charred-oak finish. (SW) GLENMORANGIE SPÌOS PRIVATE EDITION NO. 9 WHISKY, SCOTLAND ($180)
For almost a decade, Highland distiller Glenmorangie has crafted limited quantities of whiskies destined as Private Editions. These single malts typically employ unique wood combinations as part of the aging regime. For the 9th edition, Dr. Bill Lumsden, Glenmorangie’s Director of Distilling, Whisky Creation & Whisky Stocks, sourced first-fill American rye casks back in the 1990s, and transported them from Kentucky to Scotland to be filled with the distillery’s world-famous whisky. On the nose, Spìos (meaning “spice” in Gaelic and pronounced speeoss) brims with spicy rye notes, buttressed by suggestions of cinnamon, clove, black cherry, cocoa and some floral, minty notes. On the palate, it is lively, crisp and spicy, with flavours of toffee, cinnamon, clove and vanilla, but still with the charac-
teristic marmalade and caramel nuances that make it distinctly Glenmorangie. The finish is persistent and fruity/spicy. A very unique dram, indeed. (TS) KWEICHOW MOUTAI CHIEW FLYING FAIRY, CHINA ($300/500 ML)
Baijiu (white spirit) is China’s national drink — and Moutai is the ruler of the country’s massive sea of Baijiu. Limited quantities made it into Canada and, as proof of its coveted status, in a single week, sales of Moutai accounted for 24% of all of the LCBO’s online sales. The “Flying Fairy” literally flew out of the warehouse… at $300 per 500 ml bottle. So popular is the Moutai brand that the distillery itself is experiencing shortages. It’s hard to find Moutai even in the town of Moutai. Baijiu is typically classified by its aromatic profile, and though the Deputy General Director of the company told me that Moutai fit the “strong” aroma profile, most generally concede that it falls into the “sauce” category. Indeed, on first nosing, there’s a definite whiff of soy, along with some estery, fruity, cocoa notes — and a distinct mushroom funk. On the palate, its 53% ABV is a bit jolting and gum-drying, but flavours of toasted nut, cocoa, soy and grilled mushroom manage to come through. The finish is long and persistent. Very unique and certainly an acquired taste, which, given its scarcity, is probably best not acquired. (TS) APPLETON ESTATE JOY ANNIVERSARY BLEND RARE JAMAICAN RUM AGED 25 YEARS, JAMAICA ($400)
This rum is, rightly, regarded as one of the world’s most accomplished Master Blenders. Her “Joy” expression is, in a word, magnificent. An incredible nose of old, polished wood, walnut, spice, treacle, clove, orange chocolate emerge, underscored by a distinct - though in no way unpleasant - shot of acetate. Complex, spicy, earthy and warm, with flavours of toffee, caramel, buttered nuts and marmalade go on and on (and on) as the flavours glide away. At $400 per bottle, you certainly (hopefully) will not mix it. It may seem expensive for a rum, but forget any preconceived notions of what rum should be. This is as complex, ethereal and engaging as many whiskies and high-end brandies that are even more expensive. (TS) JULY/AUGUST 2018 63
FIELD NOTES GURVINDER BHATIA
A SENSE OF PLACE YEARS AGO IN THIS PUBLICATION, MY COLLEAGUE DONATELLA DICCA
eloquently described Barolo as a series of contradictions: “not necessarily weighty in the mouth, yet it possesses intensely penetrating flavours; fiercely tannic and acidic when young, but evolving into a layered, multi-dimensional, elegant beauty as it ages; shades of brick red even when young, the wine can age for decades; oftentimes assaulting to the palate on its own, the wine is masterfully tamed with flavourful food. Even the characteristics generally used to describe the wine are contradictory ... how can a wine possess the seemingly unpleasant traits of tar and tobacco, yet also the delicate beauty of violets and roses.” Barolo is Italy’s most famous wine and perhaps its most complex to understand. Some may say that it’s simple — the wine is composed entirely of Nebbiolo grapes grown on the hillsides of northwest Italy’s Piedmont region. But it shares the regional complexity of Burgundy. Many small vineyards, “scattered like a patchwork quilt, each transferring to the wine a sense of place. The wine 64 @ QUENCH_MAG
is simply a means of reflecting vineyard intricacies, unique personalities, and its storied history.” (Donatella’s words) The greatest confusion with Barolo is often the many vineyard designations and the seemingly subtle distinctions amongst them. Which is why comparative tastings of Barolo (whether same vintage, same producer, different site; or same vintage, different producer, same site) tend to be so educational and enlightening with respect to understanding the various Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (“additional geographical definitions” or MGAs) of Barolo and their general characteristics which impart on the wine their sense of origin, and to gain some sense of what to expect from a Barolo with a particular cru designation on its label. Barolo producers take pride in allowing the wine to express the vineyard. Sordo is a producer that has the ability to conduct what few others are able to due to their numerous vineyard holdings: a horizontal tasting of eight crus from a single vintage. The tasting was held at their winery, located in the municipality of Castiglione Falletto in conjunction with the
Collisioni Progetto Vino. Eight Barolos from the 2013 vintage, each from a different MGA were tasted side-by-side led by third generation family member Giorgio Sordo, senior enologist Ernesto Minusso and Italian wine guru Ian D’Agata. As the production method was consistent for all the wines (temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel, 24 months aging in large Slavonian oak with additional aging in the bottle before being released), the tasting provided an excellent comparison of the effect of site while other factors were relatively constant. The results reconfirmed that terroir is not simply an esoteric concept, but one that is evident and perceptible in the glass. Even a novice would be able to ascertain that the following wines smell and taste different. Nebbiolo’s ability to express the site in which it is grown could not be more clear. Long live the king. SORDO BAROLO MONVIGLIERO 2013 ($48)
Fragrant, elegant, accessible, floral and perfumed with violet, rose petal and spice aromas, focussed with fine tannins, juicy, bright and fresh with lovely flavours of sour
cherry. A pretty wine. The Monvigliero site is 25 hectares located in the commune of Verduno in the northern part of the zone. Sordo owns 1.77 hectares of the site. The vines are an average of 35 years old with south/southeast exposure. Sordo’s first vintage of production from this site was 2005. Elevation of the vineyard site is 280 to 320 metres and is considered to be one of, if not the, top sites of Verduno.
SORDO BAROLO PARUSSI 2013 ($50)
Fragrant, floral and fruity, but structured with manageable, silky tannins, balanced and rich. Parussi is located in Castiglione Falletto, essentially in the central part of the Barolo region. The area is often referred to as producing the most balanced wines and this is a great example. The vines are 15 to 40 years old with west/ southwest exposure and an elevation of 270 to 290 metres.
SORDO BAROLO RAVERA 2013 ($48)
Rich, full and powerful, compact and somewhat austere, not as perfumed as the Monvigliero, with much more of a brooding nose and rather closed. Will take time to open, evolve and become more expressive. The Ravera site is quite large at 130 hectares and is located in Novello in the southwest of part of the Barolo region. Sordo owns 2.83 hectares and the average age of the vines is 20 years. Elevation is 420 to 450 metres. SORDO BAROLO PERNO 2013 ($55)
Even more powerful and structured than the Ravera, the wine is rich and chunky with mature fruit and earth, tannic and austere. The Perno site is located in Monforte d’Alba in the southeast quadrant of the region. Perno is the third largest cru in Barolo at 191 hectares. Sordo owns 6.6 hectares that are southeast facing at an elevation of 270 to 400 metres on steep slopes and the vines average between 15 to 35 years old. SORDO BAROLO GABUTTI 2013 ($50)
Floral and accessible on the nose and on the entry with lovely red roses and red cherries, the wine becomes structured and tight in the mid-palate with mouth-puckering tannins on the finish that are heightened by the acidity. The wine is perhaps the most remarkably complex of all the wines and evolved in the glass over the course of the tasting, slowing revealing more and more layers. The Gabutti site is 14.24 hectares and is located in Serralunga d’Alba, the most eastern commune in the region and the area which, in general, produces some of the most structured and age-worthy wines. Sordo owns 3.66 hectares that are south/southwest facing with 35- to 50-yearold vines at an elevation of 250 to 300 metres. Gabutti was first bottled by Sordo with the 1989 vintage and was the second cru bottled by the winery.
SORDO BAROLO ROCCHE DI CASTIGLIONE FALLETTO 2013 ($53)
Also located in Castiglione Falletto, Rocche di Castiglione Falletto, according to D’Agata, is one of the 10 greatest sites for Barolo, partially evidenced by the fact that 94% of the vineyard is planted to Nebbiolo. The site is 16.5 hectares with Sordo controlling 0.78 hectares. The 30- to 60-year-old vines have southeast exposure with an elevation of 320 to 350 metres. Elegant and refined, the wine shows sour cherry and rose petals, lightly fruity and floral with great balance while still having a full body and tight core, expressing the personality of a cooler climate wine. Rocche de Castiglione Falletto was the first cru produced by Sordo with the 1987 vintage. SORDO BAROLO VILLERO 2013 ($80)
Villero, Rocche di Castiglione Falletto and Monprivato are commonly considered the top crus of Castiglione Falletto. The wine is darker, more brooding and brawny, richer and more tannic than the Rocche di Castiglione Falletto in part due to the lower elevation site (230 to 350 metres). There is still great balance, but the wine will definitely need more time to open and welcome the imbiber. Villero is a 22 hectare site with Sordo controlling 0.49 hectares, with vines averaging 30 years of age. 2013 is the first vintage of this cru. SORDO BAROLO MONPRIVATO 2013 ($86)
Balanced and rich with refined tannins, the wine shows sour red cherry, liquorice, spice and a touch of orange peel and stone fruit. Not as structured as Villero, but slightly richer than the Rocche di Castiglione Falletto. 98% of the 7 hectare Monprivato site is planted to Nebbiolo. Sordo possesses 0.45 hectares of Monprivato with an average of 35-year-old vines at an elevation of 240 to 320 hectares. ×
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RosehillWineCellars.com JULY/AUGUST 2018 65
AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER
IT’S JUST NATURAL It was the French novelist and poet Henri Murger (1822-1861) who penned the injunction: “The first duty of wine is to be red.” He went on to say, dismissively, “Don’t talk to me of your white wines.”
That initial phrase has been wrongly attributed to Harry Waugh, the British wine merchant, author and a former director of Château Latour, who died in 2001 at the age of 97. Waugh added a personal preference to it by saying, “The first duty of wine is to be red. The second is to be a Burgundy.” It is worth repeating here another of Harry Waugh’s bonmots. He was once asked if he had ever mistaken a claret for a Burgundy. His response: “Not since lunch.” This notion of red wine’s supremacy is subscribed to by all civilized nations, like the Italians, the French and the Spanish. And most level-headed wine writers. So, Dionysus protect me, please, from the current fad for Raw, Natural and Orange wines or whatever you want to call them. I do not want to imbibe a white wine that tastes like a cocktail made of sherry and cider. In the game of golf, I’m told, it is customary to shout an admonitory “Fore!” when you strike an errant ball that threatens to crown a player on the green ahead of you. The same warning should be uttered in stentorian tones when an in-coming sommelier approaches your restaurant table with the intent of palming you off with an orange wine. Because the current trend for these over-hyped wines is driven by sommeliers in search of novelty. For those of you who have been fortunate enough not to have tasted one, an orange wine is made by fermenting white grapes on their skins for a lengthy time, giving the resulting liquid an amber or orange hue. This caveman school of natural winemaking, without recourse to sulphur, is a throwback to how wines were originally made — usually in large terracotta amphorae known 66 @ QUENCH_MAG
as kvevri. These vessels were filled with bunches of grapes, sealed and buried in the ground, sometimes for years. This was the practice in Georgia dating back to 6000 BC. (For more on how this was done, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kvevri). Well, in our enlightened times, surgeons do not operate without anaesthetics; we brush our teeth to protect them; we clothe ourselves to keep warm. So why on earth would one allow wine to make itself without the discipline of a touch of sulphur and the gentle intervention of winemaker as midwife? To forego the use of sulphur in the winemaking process is akin to walking around with body odour. A soupçon of sulphur protects the wine against oxidation, stabilizes its colour and gives it shelf-life. Don’t be deterred by the ominous warning on the back label of all wines that proclaims the bottle “Contains Sulphites.” All wines — and anything that undergoes fermentation, like cheese and sauerkraut — will contain sulphites; some sulphite is created naturally by the transformative act of fermentation. So to be accurate, that cautionary phrase should read “Guaranteed To Contain Sulphites.” What’s next in the never-ending quest for the new thing in the world of wine? Since we already have red wine, white wine, pink wine, black wine (from Cahors) and green wine (Vinho Verde from Portugal — though it isn’t actually green, except maybe with the addition of a little food-grade green dye on St Patrick’s Day) — how about blue wine to complete the rainbow? End of rant. But I predict this orange wine fad will not endure and I for one will not mourn its passing. After all, the first duty of wine is to be drinkable. × ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM
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